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M eh Ma E t PATTERNS IDEAS YARN INSPIRATION TECHNIQUES n Te H Iq E t t

ISSUE ONE HUNDRED & TWENTY THREE

34 PATTERNS FOR YOU

FUN WITH FAIR ISLE

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Holiday poncho Fo Om R Aw y Da s

CROCHET & CODING The science of stitching

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CACTUS THROW & MORE!

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Introducing Ten New Shades Our gorgeously soft and lightweight blend of Falkland Islands wool and the nest nylon is available in a range of playful prints and joyful solid shades.

sales@wyspinners.com 01535 664500

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We’re in the mood to celebrate. First, let’s have a cheer for the Queen’s Platinum Jubilee – and this amigurumi figure depicting her at her coronation. Then peek inside to find projects for summer parties and more. Enjoy!

Crochet

6ù` ùUR >bRR[ ` 7bOVYRR on p29 ISSUE ONE HUNDRED & TWENTY THREE

CONTENTS

25 Ma C i Ca D Mm r Fa r Is e Co l Ct o P14

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EXCITING CROCHET IDEAS TO INSPIRE YOU

Cover

star!

14 SUMMER FAIR ISLE COLLECTION 25 MATCHING MUM & CHILD CARDIS 29 AMIGURUMI QUEEN ELIZABETH II 39 EMBELLISH: BLANKET BORDER 42 CARDIGAN & TANK TOP TWIN SET 48 GRANNY SQUARE BLANKET 51 SUN KEY RING

N Vi w Spring bags on p59

P84

55 CHILD'S PONCHO 59 HOOK TO HOOK: SPRING BAGS 63 TEA LIGHT HOLDERS 69 LACE SHAWL 73 TALAVERA BLANKET CAL 76 FLOWER BRACELETS 77 INDIE DYE LOT: CUSHION

55 9 c c Us b Rd r

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Pa t W!

GOOD READS

HOW TO…

09 HOOKED 36 JOURNAL: JESS BENNETT 52 PROFILE: RACHEL ZAIN 66 FEATURE: SCIENCE & CROCHET 80 SHOW US YOURS! 98 FAVE FOLLOW:

34 SUBSCRIBE Never miss an issue!

82 CROCHET UNRAVELLED How to follow a stitch chart 84 YARN REVIEWS Get eco-friendly with organic yarns 89 THE GUIDE Essential step-by-steps for you

What's new on social

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1 Su Y Ri g Simply Crochet ISSN 2051-5693 (USPS XXXXX) (Issue May, Issue 123) is published monthly with an extra copy in November by Our Media Ltd (an Immediate Group Company), Eagle House, Bristol, BS1 4ST United Kingdom.

The US annual subscription price is $160. Airfreight and mailing in the USA by agent named World Container Inc., c/o BBT 150-15, 183rd St, Jamaica, NY 11413, USA. Periodicals postage paid at Brooklyn, NY 11256.

US POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Simply Crochet, World Container Inc., c/o BBT 150-15, 183rd St, Jamaica, NY 11413, USA. Subscription records are maintained at Our Media Ltd./Immediate Media Bristol Ltd., Eagle House, Bristol, BS1 4ST United Kingdom.

Classics with a twist Here at Simply Crochet, we try to bring something new to even the most tried-and-tested designs. For instance, we’ve given Fair Isle a summer makeover on page 14 and used fresh, fruity colours to spice up a twin set on page 42. We also like giving pieces a new spin with unusual textures and stitches – check out the wavy poncho on page 55, the popcorn-stitch cushion on page 77 and the glamorous, sparkly robes on the Queen Elizabeth II amigurumi on page 29. Please share your makes on Instagram tagged #sctreblemaker, or on our Facebook group Simply Crochet SCtreblemakers, as we love to see them.

Editor Sara Huntington Art Editors Kimberly Price, Claire Watkins, Jude Curle Production Editor Alison Maney Technical Editor Paula Green Editorial and Digital Assistant Claudia Trotman Cover Photography Steve Sayers Photography Dave Caudery, Kaden Gardener, Steve Sayers, Jesse Wild

Ad E Ti I G Call 0117 300 8206 Group Advertising Sales Manager Penny Stokes Business Development Manager UK and International Rachael Hawkins

Ma K T g & Su S Ri T o Senior Direct Marketing Executive Kate Jones

Ci C La I Head of Newstrade Marketing Martin Hoskins Newstrade Marketing Manager Janine Smith International Account Manager Richard Jefferies

Co T Ib T r

Pr D Ct O

Let 's raise a cheer for the fantastic designers in this issue...

Senior Production Co-ordinator Lizzie Ayre Production Managers Rose Griffiths, Siân Rodgers Group Production Manager Louisa Molter Production Director Sarah Powell

Bu I T m Karen Flannigan

Li E S g Director of International Licensing & Syndication Tim Hudson

Pu L Sh N

I ffind i nd croch crochet “Give me a “Icrochet hookh etand a ball of yarnvery andtherapeutic” I will be happy!”

“I love mixin g colours.

The brighter the bet ter!”

Publisher Charlotte Morgan Managing Director of Craft, Gardens & Homes Marie Davies Managing Director, Bristol Andy Marshall Executive Chairman Tom Bureau

Su S Ri T o SALLY SHEPHERD

ANA MORAIS SOARES

Sally runs a crochet group in her village and has lost count of the number of people she’s taught to crochet. She’s learning to spin yarn, too! See her granny square blanket on page 48.

Ana is a crochet designer with a big passion for cosy and colourful blankets. For the last two years, she’s been hooked on mosaic crochet creations. Join her Talavera CAL on page 73.

Call 03330 162 146 or subscribe online at www.buysubscriptions.com/craft

N d t g i To C ?

EDITORIAL TEAM simplycrochet@ourmedia.co.uk SUBSCRIPTIONS TEAM www.buysubscriptions.com/contactus 03330 162 146

N t Is U o S e T s 4 J e 2O 2 No gift included? Ask your newsagent.

Covergift may be unavailable overseas.

“Combinin g croch et and knit ting in free-form designs is my passi on”

“I'm a fan of bright colours and bold geometri c designs”

MARGARET HUBERT

LUCY CROFT

Starting in the needle arts business in 1963, Margaret has since written 31 books on crochet and knitting in her career. Check out her tank top-and-cardigan twin set on page 42.

In addition to being a massive colour end, Lucy also enjoys a complicated, mathmatical pattern. Have a look at her gorgeous desertthemed blanket border on page 39.

OTHER CONTRIBUTORS Natalie Beard, Jess Bennett, Lara Butler, Colette Earley, Rilla Edwards, Lucy Evans, Jenny May Forsyth, Emma Leith, Cara Medus, Kelly Wilson Moore, Fran Morgan, Nerissa Muijs, Marianne Rawlins, Becky Skuse, Matt Spiers, Pat Strong, Ellie’s Craft Boutique

S hop local The copyright in the patterns in this magazine are owned by or licensed to Our Media Ltd (an Immediate Group Company) and are for readers’ personal use only. Please do not share them online (even for free) or copy them multiple times without our permission. Where selling crafts based on these patterns is permitted (usually only to raise funds for charity), we’ll say so on the page. All toys sold in the UK must meet the requirements set out in the Toy (Safety) Regulations 2011, with proof in the form of a CE Mark. You must take all necessary steps to comply with this important legislation. For more information, see gov.uk/ce-marking.

Our Media Limited (company number 05715415) is registered in England and Wales. The registered o ce of Our Media Limited is at Vineyard House, 44 Brook Green, London W6 7BT. All information contained in this magazine is for information only and is, as far as we are aware, correct at the time of going to press. Our Media Limited cannot accept any responsibility for errors or inaccuracies in such information. Readers are advised to contact manufacturers and retailers directly with regard to the price of products/services referred to in this magazine. If you submit unsolicited material to us, you automatically grant Our Media Limited a licence to publish your submission in whole or in part in all editions of the magazine, including licensed editions worldwide and in any physical or digital format throughout the world. Any material you submit is sent at your risk. Although every care is taken, neither Our Media Limited nor its employees agents or subcontractors shall be liable for loss or damage.

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AVAILABLE AT THE MUST-HAVE IS NOW AVAILABLE IN 125 SHADES! THIS MERCERIZED COTTON IS EN71-3 CERTIFIED FOR SAFE USE IN TOYS AND MORE. DISCOVER THEM ALL ON WWW.LOVECRAFTS.COM OR SCAN THE QR CODE.

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Ideas

Inspiration

Accessories

Websites

Events

Stuff

Beside the seaside If you’re a fan of beach holidays, this new King Cole CAL is for you! Join in to hook up Eleonora Tully’s gorgeous Postcards with Love Crochet Along Blanket. The CAL is made up of small postcard-shaped squares and rectangles that combine to make one large, colourful throw measuring 122x122cm (48x48in). The first day of the CAL is 23 May.

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PRETTY PALETTE W Arriving in eight

Stash style Use up your yarn in the most fashionable way possible! The Ginger Cowl by TL Yarn Crafts uses 12 shades of DK yarn to make a chic bandana-style kerchief and is also a fantastic stash-busting project. Make multiples in various colourways to give to friends and family, or choose your favourite hues and craft it for yourself. Find the PDF pattern for £5.76 at www.tlyarncrafts.com

New elease

Get chills This cosy 100% wool yarn comes to us from the remote and sharply beautiful Faroe Islands, situated about halfway between Norway and Iceland. Arctica 100% Wool, which comes from the free-roaming sheep that wander the islands’ wide-open grasslands, is brushed, bulky and, as it still has some of its lanolin, water repellant. That means it’s fantastic for all types of outerwear – though you may want to wear a layer underneath garments made from this chunky yarn, as it has a rustic, textured feel. But that’s all part of its all-natural charm, and the wide range of colours available makes it ideal for projects like Fair Isle jumpers. Each 50g ball sells for £5.50. Check out the full range when you visit www.hobbii.co.uk

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varied and painterly shades, Ella Rae’s new mercerised cotton Watercolors range is a spring and summer dream come true. The yarn’s smooth sheen gives it a silk-like texture and look, and each skein is full of complementary colour variations. The shades have been given lovely evocative names like Two Roses, Nocturne, Wildflowers and Lady Lilith, too. To find your local Ella Rae stockist and patterns featuring Watercolors yarn, visit www. knittingfever.com

JUST THE SWEETEST This adorable cross-body mini purse fills us with so much joy! The Strawberry Bag is just big enough to fit a mobile phone and some credit cards – ideal for a festival, night out or any other adventure that you want to enjoy without a handbag in tow. The easy-to-make pattern comes with handy instructions on how to adjust the size to fit your phone, and includes a five-page print-friendly version and a 12-page version with 30 photos to help walk you through the process of making your pouch. To get the most out of this pattern, make it in several colours and have one ready for every outfit in your closet, then remake the strawberry and daisy motifs to decorate your summer outfits. Get the pattern for £3.84 at www.eclecticjesscrochet.etsy.com

HOOKED Crochet hacks with Miss Neriss

HOW TO DO A STANDING START I’m Nerissa, an Australian expat in the Netherlands. I grew up on a farm in South Australia, so sheep and wool are in my DNA. I was taught to knit and spin as a child, and I think I learned to crochet by osmosis. Over the years I have developed all sorts of little tricks to level up my crochet skills quickly and easily, and I cannot wait to share them with you. These tips will all help to make you a better crocheter with very little effort!

The standing stitch is a useful hack, especially when starting a new round, or when starting part of the way along a row.

The technique can be used for any stitch

height, but today we’ll demonstrate with a half treble crochet (htr).

Step 1: Make a slip knot on your hook Step 2: Yrh, keeping the knot under your hook, insert hook in st, yrh and pull up a loop. It may help to use your finger to hold the first yrh and slip knot in place.

Step 3: Yrh and pull through 3 loops.

Step 4: Work your row/round as normal.

Notes: It can be easy to pull the knot around your hook and lose the yrh. To keep the slip knot in place, hold the yrh and slip knot in place with your finger while you work your stitch.

And that’s it! I hope you enjoyed this very simple and useful crochet hack.

For more on Nerissa follow her on Instagram at @miss__neriss and Facebook at madeby MissNeriss, find her patterns at the nerissa-muijs Ravelry store or visit www.missneriss.com

INSPIRING BOOKS HEAD TO TOE CROCHET GURINDER KAUR HATCHARD (£16.99, Herbert Press) The arrival of a new baby is the perfect excuse to get out your hooks, and this book of themed beanies and booties is just the thing for babygift inspiration. With 15 beginner-friendly sets make, you can turn all the infants and toddlers you know into tiny bumblebees, strawberries, unicorns and more. Each design comes in three sizes – preemies, 0-6 months and 6-12 months.

NEXT ISSUE No more wonky row edges!

CURIOUS CROCHET CREATURES

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IRENE STRANGE (£15.99, David & Charles) Celebrate some of the world’s most unusual and exciting creatures with this collection of 16 amigurumi marvels. Inside, you’ll find beasts from the land, the sea and the air, including an aardvark, a narwhal, a flamingo, a chameleon and more, plus useful instructions on how to crochet in the amigurumi style. You’ll use the patterns in this book again and again to make unique gifts for nature-loving friends.

CROCHET WRAPS

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SUBS STARS! Ex L Si E f Su S Ri E S!

Every month, three subscribers win a prize as a thank you for their loyalty to Simply Crochet. This month, the winners (below) will each receive this bumper Caron Simply Soft yarn bundle, worth £35, to make this gorgeous blanket!

Catryn Rowlands, Reading Maureen Warke, Hampshire Patricia Edney, Manchester Our Media Limited (an Immediate Group Company) publishers of Simply Crochet, Subs Stars giveaway Terms and Conditions. Prizes were dispatched before the on sale date of this issue. There are no cash alternatives. Three winning entries will be chosen at random from all current subscribers. The draw is nal and no correspondence will be entered into.

TAMMY HILDEBRAND (£8.95, Stackpole Books) Take your style up a notch with these colourful and intricate shawls designed by the Vice President of the Crochet Guild of America. With seven delicately detailed patterns to choose from, including both easy and challenging options, you’re sure to find a wrap that suits your style and capabilities. The book also includes a tutorial section with information on and photos of various crochet stitches and techniques.

DECORATIVE NEEDLE FELTING PROJECTS GRETEL PARKER (£14.99, Pen & Sword Books) Grab a barbed needle and get felting with this collection of 20 patterns. You’ll find 3D makes for all four seasons, plus handy step-bystep instructions and information on how to get creative and personalise your makes. Some projects, like the small Easter Egg Dangles, are simple and quick, while others, such as the Winter Gingerbread Village, are more complex.

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GRAB HOLD W Stitch & Story’s

monster mash-up If you’ve been looking for an easy way to get into designing, consider taking part in TOFT’s quarterly design challenge, based on Kerry Lord’s Edward’s Crochet Imaginarium mix-andmatch flip book. You’ll use the book and a colour palette set by Kerry to create your very own monster – then, snap a pic and post it to the #edsimaginists hashtag. Kerry herself will pick a winner and the design will become a TOFT kit as part of their monster range. For more details, visit www.toftuk.com

much-delayed Christmas stock has finally arrived – and they want to get rid of it! That means it’s time for heavy discounts and grab bags. The company’s yarn prices have dropped by up to £2.50 per ball, and their £20 grab bags include six balls of yarn (worth £39 to £59.94), six patterns (worth £30) and a Stitch & Story project bag (worth £10). For an extra 10% off the £20 grab bags, use the code SC123. Visit www.stitchandstory. com to find out more.

Re D f Ad E T e The summer holidays are fast approaching, and kids are looking forward to heady days spent scrambling over rocks and tromping through woodlands and over moors (or just around the local playground). And, naturally, they’ll need a fantastic crochet wardrobe to wear while they go on all their outdoor adventures.

Enter Sirdar’s fun Summer Camp Collection, made in bright, kid-friendly shades of Sirdar Snuggly Replay DK. The patterns include this Adventure Awaits vest and matching hat, and a cute striped Capture the Flag cardigan for kids to wear on chillier evenings. The yarn used for these projects is 50% cotton and 50% acrylc, and garments made from it are machine washable at 40°, or on a wool cycle. Find the entire collection and all the yarn you’ll need to make each piece of clothing at www.sirdar.com

Shop of the month

Each issue we explore a UK yarn shop

h t i With their ears cocked to one side, giant expressive heads and teeny-tiny tails, these little rabbits by MJ Carlos are designed to raise a squeal of delight from anyone who sees them. Best of all, the pattern and YouTube tutorial are absolutely free – so there’s no excuse not to hook these sweet mini buns! Visit www.helloyellowyarn.com to download the PDF, and check out the MJ Carlos YouTube channel for her step-by-step.

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Who’s in charge? Sharon King.

Where can we find you? Thirsk, home of vet and author James Herriot, situated between the beautiful Yorkshire Dales and the Moors National Parks in North Yorkshire.

What is your shop like? Modern, bright, warm and inclusive, offering a wide range of yarns to suit every pocket. We also give advice, are open six days a week and are part of a friendly community that meet regularly.

What do you sell? A variety of commercial and handdyed yarn from some of the best dyers in the country.

Any special evants? We have weekly Knit and Natter events on Zoom and in person.

18 Millgate, Thirsk, North Yorkshire, YO7 1AA Telephone 01845 527978 Find them on Facebook at @EweandYarn, on Instagram at @eweandyarnthirsk and on Twitter at @EweAndYarn

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5 FAB FINDS BARGAIN BAG KCKC

Whether you’re o to the high street or pottering around a farmer’s market, these roomy mesh-style bags will come in handy. Popular yarn-makers Lily Sugar’n Cream designed this free pattern to feature their yarn in some of its most vibrant shades – but, as it comes in a wide range of both bold and neutral colours, you can choose whichever hue suits your personal style. The bag works up quickly, too, so you can easily make as many as you like. Find the free pattern on www.yarnspirations.com and get your Lily Sugar’N Cream yarn from www. woolwarehouse.co.uk

Ruffles Celebrate all things frilly and fun with these ruffly projects

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TINY DANCER It’s a skirt and shorts all in one – perfect for newborns, toddlers and everyone inbetween. Tots will love twirling and tumbling in these adorable Isabella Bloomers. Find the pattern for £5 at www.peachandpaige.com

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L i Is e Don’t ignore all those almost-completed UFOs in your craft room, no matter how messy they are – instead, learn how to finish them all off properly with the all-day Crochet Finishing Techniques Workshop from Black Sheep Wools. From 10am to 4pm on Saturday, 25 June, tutor Claire Montgomerie will teach hooksters how to neaten the sides of their fabric, create tidy edges, weave in ends, change colours neatly and crochet together seams. These intimate classes fill up fast, so make sure you sign up early to reserve your spot. And bring your UFOs with you! Visit www.blacksheepwools.com to sign up for this session and to find other upcoming workshops, too.

HAPPY HOOPS Add some flounce to your jewellery collection when you make these Ainsley Crochet Earrings by KnotCommon Threads on Etsy. You can buy the PDF pattern for £8.89.

Crochet community

Skills & events 21 MAY Crochet Day Retreat £99, Crewe, Cheshire www.ohsoprettyandclever.com 10-12 JUN Mill Open Weekend £6 reservation fee, South Molton www.jarbon.com

WARM WEATHER Bring on the sunny days and summer festivals! Get the Pinnatte Ruffle Bralette pattern for £7.79 on the BaeCrochett Etsy shop or at www. baecrochett.com

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SCRUNCH STYLE Even your hairstyle can enjoy a bit of crochet with these scrunchies from KinaKreationsStore on Etsy. Each of these handmade, very soft scrunchies costs £2.30-3.50.

10-12 JUN Darlington Wool Fair 2022 Free entry, Darlington www.enjoydarlington.co.uk 13-15 JUN Cambridge Yarn Festival Free, online (Instagram) www.cambridgeyarnfestival.co.uk 18 JUN Learn to spin yarn full day course £120, Dorking www.gilliangladrag.co.uk

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IN THE RUFF This off-the-shoulder All Ruffled Up Sweater is too cool!

Download the £6.50 pattern at www. terecrochetwear. com or visit the TereCrochetwear shop on Etsy.

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SUMMER FAIR ISLE COLLECTION

RUSTIC CHARM Throw a wide scarf around your shoulders as you gather wild owers, enjoy a picnic or take a meandering stroll through the park.

SUMMER FAIR ISLE COLLECTION

A breath of fresh air Evoke the timeless beauty of a countryside summer with warm-weather Fair Isle accessories, homewares and more

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SUMMER FAIR ISLE COLLECTION

FAIR AND SQUARE Tuck this handy little blanket into your picnic basket or tote bag and use it for sitting on the grass, warming your lap or wrapping up a chilly little one.

MINI ME What a pair you’ll be in these matching short-sleeved Fair Isle cardigans! Wear them for a family photoshoot or on a special day out with just the two of you.

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SUMMER FAIR ISLE COLLECTION

SUMMER FAIR ISLE COLLECTION

SUMMER FAIR ISLE COLLECTION

HAPPY HEN Whether she’s sitting on a shelf, on your sofa or on your lap, this cheerful chicken will look splendid with her classic contrasting colours and folk-art look.

FRENCH CONNECTION Who knew chic could be so cute? Make a set of matching oppy berets for you and your favourite tot and get ready for the compliments to roll in!

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SUMMER FAIR ISLE COLLECTION

SCARF Whenever a cool summer breeze floats through the air, wrap this large scarf by Marianne Rawlins around your shoulders and continue to enjoy the outdoors Q West Yorkshire Spinners Elements (60% Lyocell, 40% wool, 50g/112m), 5 balls of Fresh Water (1106), 1 ball of each: Living Coral (1103), Oyster Pearl (1098), Cool Aloe (1102), Summer Haze (1107), Fresh Water (1106), Cherry Blossom (1105) Q A 4mmn (US G/6) hook

TENSION Tension is not critical for this project, but it may affect the yarn quantities required

MEASUREMENTS Scarf measures approx 44x122cm (17 x48in)

ABBREVIATIONS wdc (waistcoat dc) Insert hook through centre of the dc in the row below (not in the top of the st), yrh and pull up a loop, yrh and pull through both loops on hook For a full list, see page 94

NOTES Scarf is worked in rows with RS facing throughout. Fasten off at the end of each row and rejoin yarn in the first st of the row. Work over as many tails as possible to reduce the number of ends you need to weave in.

There are 2 Charts on page 95, which you will need to refer to when making the Scarf. Each small square represents 1wdc. Read all rows

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from right to left. The Chart is repeated using different colours in the pattern. The colours required will be listed in each section of the pattern.

The first few rows of each Chart has been written out to guide you.

Change colour on the final yrh of st before colour change is indicated. Carry the unused colours across the top of your stitches, enclosing the strand as you work.

SCARF Using Fresh Water, ch61.

Row 1 (RS) Dc in second ch from hook and each ch across. [60 sts] Fasten off.

Join Fresh Water in first st.

Row 2 (WS) Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), wdc in each st across.

Fasten off.

Join Fresh Water in first st.

Rows 3-10 As Row 2, fastening off at the end of each row.

Fasten off.

Ref to Chart 1 for Rows 11-17. Use Fresh Water for Yarn A, and Oyster Pearl for Yarns B-D. Join Oyster Pearl in first st.

Row 11 Ch1, wdc in first st, *change to Fresh Water, wdc in next 2 sts, change to Oyster Pearl, wdc in next st; rep from * across to end.

Fasten off.

Join Fresh Water in first st.

Row 12 Ch1, *wdc in next 2 sts, (change to Oyster Pearl, wdc in next st, change to Fresh Water, wdc in next st) twice; rep from * across to end.

Fasten off.

Rows 12-17 Cont in patt using Chart 1 for all colour changes.

Fasten off.

Join Fresh Water in first st.

Rows 18-20 As Row 2.

Fasten off.

Join Summer Haze in first st.

Row 21 As Row 2.

Ref to Chart 2 for Rows 22-27. Use Cool Aloe for Yarn A, and Cherry Blossom for Yarn B and Summer Haze for Yarn D. Join Cool Aloe in first st.

Row 22 Ch1, wdc in first st, *change to Summer Haze, wdc in next 2 sts, change to Cherry Blossom, wdc in next st, change to Summer Haze, wdc in next 2 sts, change to Cool Aloe, wdc in next st; rep from * across to end.

Fasten off.

Join Summer Haze in first st.

Row 23 Ch1, *wdc in first 2 sts, change to Cherry Blossom, wdc in next 3 sts, change to Summer Haze, wdc in next 3 sts, change to Cherry Blossom, wdc in next 3 sts, change to Summer Haze, wdc in next st, change to Cherry Blossom, wdc in next 3 sts, change to Summer Haze; rep from * across to end.

Fasten off.

Rows 24-27 Cont in patt using Chart 2 for all colour changes.

Fasten off.

Join Summer Haze in first st.

Row 28 As Row 2.

Rows 29-31 Using Fresh Water, work as Row 2.

Row 32 Using Cool Aloe, work as Row 2.

Rows 33-39 Ref to Chart 1 for Rows 33-39. Use Cool Aloe for Yarn A, Cherry Blossom for Yarn B, Living Coral for Yarn C and Summer Haze for

SUMMER FAIR ISLE COLLECTION Yarn D. Rows 40-42 Using Fresh Water, work as Row 2.

Rows 43-48 Ref to Chart 2 for Rows 43-48. Use Fresh Water for Yarn D and Oyster Pearl for Yarns A and B. Rows 49-161 Using Fresh Water, work as Row 2.

Rows 162-167 As Rows 43-48.

Rows 168-170 Using Fresh Water, work as Row 2.

Rows 171-177 As Rows 33-39.

Rows 178-180 Using Fresh Water, work as Row 2.

Rows 181-187 As Rows 21-27.

Rows 198-190 Using Fresh Water, work as Row 2.

Rows 191-197 As Rows 11-17.

Rows 198-208 Using Fresh Water, work as Row 2.

Fasten off and weave in ends BORDER With RS facing, join Fresh Water in any corner.

Round 1 (RS) Ch1, *3dc in corner, dc in each row-end or st to next corner; rep from * 3 times more, ss to beg dc. [536 sts] Fasten off.

You may find it helpful to mark the four corner sts, moving the markers up as you go.

Join Cherry Blossom in any corner st.

Round 2 (RS) Ch1, *3wdc in corner st, (change to Cool Aloe, wdc in next 2 sts, change to Cherry Blossom, wdc in next 2 sts) rep across to next corner st; rep from * around, ss to beg wdc. [544 sts] Round 3 Ch1, *wdc in first st, 3wdc in next st, wdc in next st, (change to Cool Aloe, wdc in next 2 sts, change to Cherry Blossom, wdc in next 2 sts) rep to first st in Cherry Blossom at next corner; rep from * around, ss to beg wdc.

[552 sts] Fasten off.

Join Fresh Water in any corner st.

Rounds 4-5 Ch1, (3dc in corner st, wdc in each st to next corner) 4 times, ss to beg dc.

Fasten off.

POCKET EMBELLISHMENT Spruce up a timeless linen apron or dress with this custom pocket by Sara Huntington. It’s nice and deep, so you can carry all sorts of handy bits and bobs inside!

Q West Yorkshire Spinners Elements (60% Lyocell, 40% wool, 50g/112m), 1 ball of each: Living Coral (1103), Oyster Pearl (1098), Cool Aloe (1102), Summer Haze (1107), Fresh Water (1106), Cherry Blossom (1105) Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook

TENSION Tension is not critical for this project, but it may affect the yarn quantities required

NOTES Pockets are worked in striped rows and embellished with cross stitch at the end. Refer to the Chart on page 95 when working the cross stitch design. Each coloured square shows where to position each cross stitch.

POCKET EMBELLISHMENT Using Oyster Pearl, ch34.

Row 1 (RS) Dc in second ch from hook and each ch across, turn. [33 sts] Rows 2-7 Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), dc in each st across, turn.

Change to Living Coral.

Rows 8-49 As Row 2, changing colour every 7 rows in the following sequence: Fresh Water, Summer Haze, Cool Aloe, Cherry Blossom, Oyster Pearl.

Do not fasten off.

EDGING Cont with Oyster Haze and work with RS facing.

Round 1 (RS) 28dc evenly down row-end side, 33ss across base of foundation ch, 28dc up next row-end side, 28ss across top, ss to beg dc.

Fasten off.

CROSS STITCH EMBELLISHMENT Refer to the Chart on page 95.

For the cross stitches, on Rows 1-7 use Living Coral, on Rows 8-14 use Fresh Water, on Rows 15-21 use Summer Haze, on Rows 22-28 use Cool Aloe, on Rows 29-35 use Cherry Blossom, and on Rows 36-42 use Oyster Pearl.

Leave the top stripe plain.

BLANKET Take this little patchwork-style blanket by Emma Leith out into the back garden for the kids to sit on, or place it on your lap for a crochet session among the flowers Q West Yorkshire Spinners Elements (60% Lyocell, 40% wool, 50g/112m), 2 balls of each: Living Coral (1103), Oyster Pearl (1098) , Cool Aloe (1102), , Summer Haze (1107) , Fresh Water (1106), Cherry Blossom (1105) Q A 6mm (US J/10) hook

TENSION Tension is not critical for this project, but it may affect the yarn quantities required

MEASUREMENTS Blanket measures approx 63x74cm (24 x29in)

NOTES Blanket is worked holding 2 strands of yarn together as one throughout.

The Blanket is made up of 9 Panels. Four of the Panels are embroidered using the cross stitch technique. There is a Chart on page 95, which you will need to refer to when working the cross stitches. Each small square represents a dc st on the Panel and each coloured square shows where to work a cross stitch. You can use any colours for the design, changing the colours used on each Panel.

You can adjust the finished size of the Blanket by working more Panels.

BLANKET MEASUREMENTS Pocket measures approx 20x24cm (7 x9 in)

TO FINISH Block each Pocket before sewing to garment.

PANEL MAKE 9 Make 2 in Living Coral, Summer Haze, Cherry WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYCROCHET 21

SUMMER FAIR ISLE COLLECTION

CHICKEN Let this pretty Fair Isle hen by Fran Morgan alight on a shelf or on your sofa, giving your home a sweet farmhouse charm Q West Yorkshire Spinners Elements (60% Lyocell, 40% wool, 50g/112m), 1 ball of each: Living Coral (1103), Oyster Pearl (1098), Cool Aloe (1102), Summer Haze (1107), Fresh Water (1106), Cherry Blossom (1105) Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook Q A 4.5mm (US 7) hook Q Stitch marker Q 2 buttons, 12mm Q Stuffing

TENSION Tension is not critical for this project, but it may affect the yarn quantities required

MEASUREMENTS Chicken measures approx 23cm (9in) tall

ABBREVIATIONS wdc (waistcoat dc) Insert hook through centre of the dc in the row below (not in the top of the st), yrh and pull up a loop, yrh and pull through both loops on hook wdc2tog *Insert hook through centre of next dc, yrh and pull up a loop; rep from * once more, yrh and pull through 3 loops on hook For a full list, see page 94

NOTES Blossom and Fresh Water.

Make 1 in Cool Aloe.

Ch21.

Row 1 (RS) Dc in second ch from hook and each ch across, turn. [20 sts] Rows 2-25 Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), dc in each st across, turn.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

CROSS STITCH EMBELLISHMENT Using the Chart, work cross stitches onto one of the Panels made in Living Coral, Summer Haze, Cherry Blossom and Fresh Water. You can choose which colour represents Yarn A, B, etc, on each Panel.

TO MAKE UP The Panels are joined together with an alternative dc seam with RS facing throughout Use the image as a guide when joining the Panels together.

Join Oyster Pearl in the bottom-right corner on unembellished Panel worked in Summer Haze.

Row 1 Ch1, dc in corner, remove live loop from hook, insert hook in adjacent row-end on Panel being join (in this instance the embellished Panel worked in Living Coral), place live loop on hook and pull through, *dc in next row-end up, remove live loop from hook, insert hook in 22 WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYCROCHET

adjacent row-end on adjacent Panel, place live loop on hook and pull through; rep from * to top-right corner.

Fasten off.

Rep Row 1 to join all the Panels into 3 strips.

Then join the strips together in the same way.

BORDER With RS facing, join Oyster Pearl in any corner.

Round 1 (RS) Ch1, (dc, ch2, dc) in corner, dc in each st or row-end to next corner; rep from * 3 times more, ss to beg dc. [278 sts] Fasten off.

Join Cool Aloe in any ch-2 sp.

Round 2 (RS) Ch1, *(2htr, ch2, 2htr) in ch-2 sp, htr in each st to next ch-2 sp; rep from * around, ss to beg htr. [294 sts] Fasten off.

Join Oyster Pearl in any ch-2 sp.

Round 3 Ch1, (3dc in ch-2 sp, dc in each st to next ch-2 sp) 4 times, ss to beg dc. [306 sts] Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Pattern is worked in rounds with RS facing throughout.

There is a Chart on page 95, which you will need to refer to for all colour changes. Each small square represents 1wdc. Read all rows from right to left and repeat as specified in the pattern. The first few rows of the Chart have been written out to guide you.

Change colour on the final yrh of st before colour change is indicated and carry the unused colour across the WS of your work.

CHICKEN BODY Using a 4.5mm hook and Living Coral, ch32.

Round 1 (RS) Dc in second ch from hook and next 29 ch, 3dc in final ch, turn to work down opposite edge of foundation ch, dc in next 29 ch, 2dc in final ch, ss to beg dc. [64 sts] Round 2 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), 2wdc in first st, wdc in next 29 sts, 2wdc in next 3 sts (pm in first st of prev 6 sts), wdc in next 29 sts, 2wdc in next 2 sts (pm in first st of prev 4 sts), ss to beg wdc. [70 sts] Markers show the sections where increases are worked. Move the markers up as you go.

Round 3 Ch1, *2wdc in next st, wdc in each st to next marker, (2wdc in next st, wdc in next st) twice; rep from * once more, ss to beg dc. [76 sts]

SUMMER FAIR ISLE COLLECTION Round 4 Ch1, *2wdc in next st, wdc in each st to next marker, (2wdc in next st, wdc in next 2 sts) twice; rep from * once more, ss to beg dc.

[82 sts] Round 5 Ch1, *2wdc in next st, wdc in each st to next marker, (2wdc in next st, wdc in next 3 sts) twice; rep from * once more, ss to beg dc.

[88 sts] Round 6 Ch1, *2wdc in next st, wdc in each st to next marker, (2wdc in next st, wdc in next 4 sts) twice; rep from * once more, ss to beg dc.

[94 sts] Round 7 Ch1, (wdc in next 46 sts, 2wdc in next st) twice, ss to beg dc. [96 sts] Rounds 8-9 Ch1, wdc in each st around, ss to beg wdc.

Refer to the Chart for Rounds 10-44. The Chart is repeated 12 times on each round.

Rounds 10-11 Ch1, wdc in each st around, ss to beg wdc.

Round 12 Ch1, *wdc in next 2 sts, change to Oyster Pearl, wdc in next st, change to Living Coral, wdc in next 2 sts, change to Oyster Pearl, wdc in next 3 sts, change to Living Coral; rep from * 11 times more, ss to beg wdc.

Round 13 Ch1, (wdc in next st, change to Oyster Pear, wdc in next st, change to Living Coral) rep around to end, ss to beg wdc.

Round 14 As Round 13.

Rounds 15-44 Cont in patt using the Chart for all colour changes.

Fasten off.

HEAD The Head is worked over 18 sts on the Front and 18 sts on the Back.

Flatten the top of the last round and place a marker in each end, leaving 47 sts between each marker.

Using a 4.5mm hook, join Living Coral in 18th st before one marker.

Round 1 Ch1, wdc in marked st and next 35 sts, skip rem sts, ss to beg wdc. [36 sts] Round 2 Ch1, wdc2tog, wdc in each st to final 2 sts, wdc2tog, ss to beg st. [34 sts] Round 3 Ch1, wdc in first st, *(change to Oyster Pearl, wdc in next st, change to Living Coral, wdc in next st) twice, change to Oyster Pearl, wdc in next 3 sts, change to Living Coral, wdc in next st; rep from * 3 times more, wdc in final st, ss to beg st.

Round 4 Ch1, wdc2tog, *change to Oyster Pearl, wdc in next st, change to Living Coral, wdc in next 2 sts, (change to Oyster Pearl, wdc in next st, change to Living Coral, wdc in next st) twice, wdc in next st; rep from * twice more, change to Oyster Pearl, wdc in next st, change to Living Coral, wdc in next 2 sts, change to Oyster Pearl, wdc in next st, change to Living Coral, wdc in next st, change to Oyster Pearl, wdc in next st, change to Living Coral, wdc2tog, ss to beg st. [32 sts] Round 5 Ch1, wdc in first 2 sts, *change to Oyster Pear, wdc in next st, change to Living Coral, wdc in next st, change to Oyster Pear, wdc in next 3 sts, change to Living Coral, wdc in next st**, change to Oyster Pearl, wdc in next st, change to Living Coral, wdc in next st; rep from * 3 times more ending final rep at **, ss to beg dc.

Fasten off Oyster Pearl only.

Round 6 Ch1, wdc2tog, wdc in each st to final 2 sts, wdc2tog, ss to beg st. [30 sts] Round 7 Ch1, wdc in each st around, ss to beg st.

Rounds 8-13 Rep Rounds 6-7 three times.

Rounds 14-17 As Round 7.

Round 18 Ch1, (wdc2tog) 12 times, ss to beg st.

[12 sts] Fasten off.

Flatten the final round and sew closed.

TAIL Join Living Coral in 12th st before second marker.

Round 1 (RS) Ch1, wdc in next 24 sts, ss to beg st leaving rem sts unworked. [24 sts] Round 2 Ch1, wdc2tog, wdc in each st to final 2 sts, wdc2tog, ss to beg st, change to Oyster Pearl. [22 sts] Round 3 Ch1, wdc2tog, *change to Living Coral, wdc in next st, change to Oyster Pearl, wdc in next 3 sts, (change to Living Coral, wdc in next st, change to Oyster Pear, wdc in next st) twice; rep from * once more, change to Living Coral, wdc in next st, change to Oyster Pearl, wdc in next st, wdc2tog, ss to beg st, change to Living Coral. [20 sts] Round 4 Ch1, wdc in first st, *(wdc in next st,

change to Oyster Pearl, wdc in next st, change to Living Coral) twice, wdc in next 2 sts, change to Oyster Pearl, wdc in next st, change to Living Coral, wdc in next st; rep from * once more, wdc in next st, change to Oyster Pearl, wdc in next st, change to Living Coral, wdc in final st, ss to beg st.

Round 5 Ch1, wdc2tog, *change to Oyster Pearl, wdc in next 3 sts, (change to Living Coral, wdc in next st, change to Oyster Pearl, wdc in next st) twice, change to Living Coral, wdc in next st; rep from * once more, wdc2tog, ss to beg dc. [18 sts] Round 6 Ch1, wdc in each st around, ss to beg st.

Round 7 Ch1, wdc2tog, wdc in each st to final 2 sts, wdc2tog, ss to beg st. [16 sts] Fasten off.

Flatten the final round and sew closed.

CROWN Using a 4mm hook and Cherry Blossom, ch15.

Row 1 (RS) (Htr, 4-tr cl, htr) in fourth ch from hook, *ss in next ch, (htr, 4-tr cl, htr) in next ch; rep from * 4 times more, ss in final ch.

Fasten off.

Sew to the top of the Head.

BEAK Using a 4mm hook and Cherry Blossom, make a magic loop.

Round 1 (RS) Ch1, 3dc in loop, ss to beg dc.

[3 sts] Round 2 (RS) 2dc in each st around, ss to beg dc.

Rounds 3-7 Ch1, dc in each st around, ss to beg dc.

Fasten off.

Sew over Rounds 9-11 of Head.

TO FINISH Sew the buttons in place for the eyes.

Stuff the Chicken firmly and sew the top of the body closed.

HAT Whenever you and a little one go off on adventures this season, make sure you’re both wearing a chic beret by Natalie Beard Q West Yorkshire Spinners Elements (60% Lyocell, 40% wool, 50g/112m), Living Coral (1103), Cherry Blossom (1105) See table for measurements and yarn quantities 1 ball of each for both sizes: Oyster Pearl (1098), Cool Aloe (1102), Summer Haze (1107), Fresh Water (1106) Q A 5.5mm (I/9) hook Q Stitch markers or scrap yarn

TENSION Rounds 1-10 measure 10cm (4in) in diameter WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYCROCHET 23

SUMMER FAIR ISLE COLLECTION

ABBREVIATIONS wdc (waistcoat dc) Insert hook through centre of the dc in the row below (not in the top of the st), yrh and pull up a loop, yrh and pull through both loops on hook wdc2tog *Insert hook through centre of next dc, yrh and pull up a loop; rep from * once more, yrh and pull through 3 loops on hook For a full list, see page 94

NOTES Hat is worked in rounds from the top down in a continuous spiral to the Rib. Do not close off each round with a slip stitch. You may find it helpful to mark the first st of the round, moving it up as you work.

The instructions for the Adult size are written first with the Child size in brackets.

There is a Chart on page 96, which you will need to refer to when making the Hat. Each small square represents 1wdc. Read all rounds from right to left and repeat as specified within the pattern. The first 2 rounds of the Chart have been written out to guide you.

Change colour on the final yrh of st before colour change is indicated. Carry the unused colours across the top of your stitches, enclosing the strand as you work.

HAT Using Living Coral (Cherry Blossom), make a

SIZE HEAD CIRCUMFERENCE

cm in

magic loop.

Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), 6dc in loop. [6 sts] Round 2 2wdc in each st around. [12 sts] Round 3 (1wdc, 2wdc in next st) 6 times. [18 sts] Round 4 (2wdc, 2wdc in next st) 6 times.

[24 sts] Round 5 (3wdc, 2wdc in next st) 6 times.

[30 sts] Round 6 (4wdc, 2wdc in next st) 6 times.

[36 sts] Cont in pattern set, increasing 6 sts each round until you have worked a total of 26 (22) rounds and have 156 (132) sts.

Next round Ch1, *wdc in next 38 (32) sts, 2wdc in next st) 4 times. [160 (136) sts] Follow the Chart for the next 14 rounds, repeating it 20 (17) times.

Use Living Coral (Cherry Blossom) for Yarn A, Summer Haze (Fresh Water) for Yarn B, Cool Aloe (Living Coral) for Yarn C, Oyster Pearl (Oyster Pearl) for Yarn D, Cherry Blossom (Cool Aloe) for Yarn E. Next round Wdc in first st, (change to Yarn B, wdc in next st, change to Yarn A, wdc in next st) rep around changing to Yarn B to start next round. [160 (136) sts] Next round Wdc in first st, (change to Yarn A, wdc in next st, change to Yarn B, wdc in next st) rep around.

Cont to follow the Chart for the next 12 rounds.

Child

Adult

50

55

19

21

Fasten off.

Join Fresh Water (Summer Haze) in any st.

Next round (2wdc, wdc2tog) 40 (34) times.

[120 (102) sts] Next round (1wdc, wdc2tog) 40 (34) times.

[80 (68) sts]

ADULT SIZE ONLY Next round (3wdc, wdc2tog) 16 (-) times, ss in beg st. [64 (-) sts] Do not fasten off.

CHILD SIZE ONLY Join Summer Haze in any st.

Next round *wdc in next 4 sts (wdc2tog, wdc in next 4 sts) 5 times; rep from * once more. [ - (58) sts] RIB Row 1 (RS) Ch2 (counts as FPhtr throughout), (BPhtr around next st, FPhtr around next st) 32 (28) times, BPhtr around last st, ss to top of beg ch-2. [64 (58) sts] Rows 2-4 As Row 1.

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

For

at www.blacksheepwools.com use the code 123WYS at the checkout O er ends 4 July 2022 Code cannot be used with any other codes

LIVING CORAL

50g

1

2

F

CHERRY BLOSSOM

50g

2

1

YARN STOCKISTS WY Spinners www.wyspinners.com

To make this pattern easier to follow, we’ve colour-coded the sizing instructions – simply follow the relevant column.

24 WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYCROCHET

CAP-SLEEVED CARDIS

Quality time Share special moments together in matching cardigans by Pat Strong

adult & child versions

CAP-SLEEVED CARDIS

Celebrate a special bond with two nearidentical short-sleeved cardigans. The Fair Isle owers give these summery makes a timeless look that will allow them to be passed down for generations to come.

A BIT TRICKY DK WEIGHT

4MM HOOK

NOTES YOU WILL NEED

The Cardi is given in both Child and Adult sizes. In the pattern, the first 4 sizes are Child sizes, enclosed in brackets, and the last 5 sizes are Adult sizes, also enclosed in brackets.

Cardi is worked bottom up. Front edges are finished with a narrow band of slip stitches and button loops to the yoke for the button fastening.

There are Charts on page 96 for the colourwork. On the Charts, each square represents 1dc stitch. Read all RS rows from right to left and WS rows from left to right.

Change colour in the last yrh of the previous st and twist yarns when changing colour so that the colour in use shows better.

A double chain has been used to start the garment and for the sleeve/yoke edge because it gives a more finished edge. This is optional and a straightforward chain is fine.

To work the double chain: Make a slip knot in the usual manner, leaving a long tail – x4 the length of the finished chain length and keep this to the side. *Twist the tail yarn to make a loop round the thumb and insert the hook through this. Yarn over hook, pull through the loop and the loop on the hook, tighten the tail yarn to an even tension.

Repeat from * to desired stitch count.

Work into the loop behind the front facing chain.

West Yorkshire Spinners Elements (60% Lyocell, 40% wool, 50g/112m) See table for measurements and yarn quantities of Yarns A-D Yarn A Summer Haze (1107) Yarn B Oyster Pearl (1098) Yarn C Cool Aloe (1102) Yarn D Living Coral (1103) 1 ball of each for all sizes: Yarn E Fresh Water (1106) Yarn F Cherry Blossom (1105) Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook Q Stitch markers Q 4 buttons, 10mm for Child sizes Q 4 buttons, 13mm for Adult sizes For yarn stockists contact WY Spinners 01535 664500 www.wyspinners.com Q

TENSION 22 sts and 24 rows to measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over Alternating Double Crochet Stitch

ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 94

CARDIGAN

Direction of work

STITCH PATTERNS Both are worked on an even number of sts.

b

a Chest/bust width a: (33: 36: 40: 42.5) (44.5: 49: 50: 55.5: 57)cm, (13: 14 : 15 : 16 )(17 : 19 : 19 : 21 : 22 )in Length b: (29.5: 33: 38: 42.5) (56.5: 58.5: 60.5: 63: 64)cm, (11 : 13: 14 : 16 )(22 : 23: 23 : 24 : 25)in 26 WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYCROCHET

ALTERNATING DC STITCH Worked from RS only.

Row 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), dc into first st, *ch1, skip next st, dc into next st; rep from * to last st, dc in last st.

Row 2 (RS) Ch1, dc into first st, *ch1, skip next dc, dc into ch-sp below; rep from * to last st, dc in last st.

Rows 1 and 2 set pattern.

EYELET STITCH Row 1 Ch4 (counts as tr, ch1), skip next st, tr in next st, *ch1, skip next st, tr in next st; rep from * to last st, tr in last st, turn.

Rows 2-5 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in each st and ch-sp across, turn.

Rows 1-5 set patt.

BODY Using Yarn A, ch(146: 160: 176: 188)(196: 216: 220: 244: 252).

The first six rows are all worked on the right side, starting with a new colour each row

Both cardigans are the same design, except that the adult version includes a row of roses

Foundation row (WS) Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn. [(146: 160: 176: 188)(196: 216: 220: 244: 252) sts] Rows 1-6 Work in Alternating Dc St using a new colour for each row, in the sequence Yarn B, C, D, E, F, B. Rows 7-10 Using Yarn A, ch1, dc in each st to end, turn.

Using Yarn A, work in Eyelet Stitch until Body measures (15: 16: 19: 22)(32: 33: 34: 35: 36)cm ending with a RS row, and then finish with the final WS row written below. Adjust length here, if required, remembering this will affect yarn quantities.

Final row (WS) Ch1, (29: 33: 36: 38)(40: 44: 44: 48: 50)dc, pm, (14: 14: 16: 18)(18: 20: 21: 24: 26)dc for underarm, pm, (60: 66: 72: 76)(80: 88: 90: 100: 100)dc, pm, (14: 14: 16: 18)(18: 20: 21: 24: 26)dc for underarm, dc in each st to end, turn.

YOKE Row 1 (RS) Using Yarn A, ch1, *dc in each st to next marker, ch(42: 44: 48: 54)(56: 62: 62: 73: 76) for sleeve, skip underarm sts between markers; rep from *, dc in each st to end, turn. [(202: 220: 240: 260)(272: 300: 302: 342: 352) sts] Using Yarn A, work (1: 3: 5: 5)(1: 1: 1: 1: 1) rows of dc as set.

Work 6 rows of Alternating Dc St in same colour sequence as for Body, then 1 row of Alternating Dc St in Yarn A. Dec row (WS) Using Yarn A, (1: 0: 0: 0)(1: 0: 1: 1: 1)

CAP-SLEEVED CARDIS

dc, *(3: 3: 3: 3)(4: 4: 4: 3: 3)dc, dc2tog; rep from * to last (1: 0: 0: 0)(1: 0: 1: 1: 1)st, dc in any rem sts, turn. [(162: 176: 192: 208)(227: 250: 252: 274: 282) sts]

The lacy eyelet fabric of the main body makes this cardigan ideal for summer

ADULT SIZES ONLY Using Yarn A, work 1 row of dc in Yarn A and 1 row in Yarn B. ROSES See Roses Chart.

RS row Using Yarn B, (6: 5: 0: 5: 3) dc, rep 12 sts of Rose Patt from Chart A (18: 20: 21: 22: 23) times, dc in each st to end, turn.

WS row Using Yarn B (5: 5: 0: 5: 3) dc, rep 12 sts of Rose Patt from Chart A (18: 20: 21: 22: 23) times, dc in each st to end, turn.

Rep these rows until the 10 rows of the Chart are complete.

Dec row (RS) Using Yarn B, (1: 0: 1: 2: 1) dc, *3dc, dc2tog; rep from * to last (1: 0: 1: 2: 1) st(s), dc in any rem sts to end, turn. [(182: 200: 202: 220: 226) sts] Using Yarn A, work 3 rows dc.

Using Yarn B, work 1 row dc.

ALL SIZES CARNATIONS See Chart B. Using Yarn B (0: 1: 0: 2)(1: 1: 2: 2: 2) dc, rep 6 sts of Carnation Patt from Chart B (27: 29: 32: 34) (30: 33: 33: 36: 37) times, dc in each st to end.

Work until 4 rows of Chart are complete.

Work (0: 0: 0: 0)(1: 1: 1: 1: 1) rows of dc using Yarn B and (0: 2: 4: 6)(0: 2: 2: 4: 4) rows of dc using Yarn A. Dec row Using Yarn A, (1: 0: 0: 0)(2: 2: 2: 2: 2) dc, *(2: 2: 2: 2)(3: 3: 3: 3: 3)dc, dc2tog; rep from * to last (1: 0: 0: 0)(2: 2: 2: 2: 2) sts, dc in any rem sts to end, turn. [(122: 132: 144: 156)(137: 150: 152: 165: 170) sts] Using Yarn A, work (0: 0: 0: 0)(1: 1: 1: 1: 1) rows of dc. Using Yarn B, work 1 row of dc for all sizes.

CHILD SIZE TO FIT CHEST/BUST ACTUAL CHEST/BUST APPROX LENGTH

ADULT

3-4 yrs

5-6 yrs

7-8 yrs

9-10 yrs

8

10

12

14

16

cm

56-58.5

60-63.5

65-67

69-71

81

86

91

97

102

in

22-23

23 -25

25 -26

27-28

32

34

36

38

40

cm

66

85

89

114.5

in

26

cm

29.5

33

in

11

13

14

16

22

23

23

24

25

73 28

80 31 38

33 42

35 56.5

100

111

38

98

39

43

58.5

60.5

63

45 64

YARN A

50g

3

3

4

5

5

6

6

7

8

YARN B

50g

1

1

1

2

2

2

2

2

2

YARN C AND D EACH

50g

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

2

2

To make this pattern easier to follow, we’ve colour-coded the sizing instructions – simply follow the relevant column.

WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYCROCHET 27

CAP-SLEEVED CARDIS

with Yarn F. Using Yarn B, (2: 2: 0: 1)(1: 2: 0: 1: 0) dc, rep 6 sts of Carnation Chart (13: 14: 15: 17)(15: 16: 17: 18: 19) times, dc in any rem sts to end, turn.

Work until 4 rows of Chart are complete.

CHILD SIZES ONLY Dec row (RS) Using Yarn B, (2: 2: 0: 1) dc, *4dc, dc2tog; rep from * to last (2: 2: 0: 1) sts, dc in rem sts, turn. [(69: 74: 80: 87) sts] Using Yarn A, work 1 row of Alternating Dc St then work 5 rows of Alternating Dc St in same colour sequence as Body, working last row loosely.

Fasten off.

ADULT SIZES ONLY Using Yarn B, work 1 row in dc.

Using Yarn A work (1: 1: 3: 3: 3) row(s) in dc.

Work 6 rows of Alternating Dc St as given, in same colour sequence as Body.

Using Yarn A, work 1 row of dc.

Fasten off.

Finish the cardigan with an edging of slip stitch worked all around

ALL SIZES BLUE WAVE See Wave Chart.

RS row Using Yarn B, (1: 0: 0: 0)(2: 0: 1: 1: 0) dc, rep 6 sts of Blue Wave Patt from Chart C (20: 22: 24: 26)(22: 25: 25: 27: 28) times, dc in each st to end, turn.

WS row Using Yarn B, (1: 0: 0: 0)(3: 0: 1: 2: 0) dc, rep 6 sts of Blue Wave Patt from Chart C (20: 22: 24: 26)(22: 25: 25: 27: 28) times, dc in each st to end, turn.

Rep these rows until the 5 rows of the Chart are complete.

Dec row (WS) Using Yarn A, (1: 0: 1: 0: 1) dc, * 1dc, dc2tog; rep from * to last (1: 0: 1: 0: 1) st, dc in any rem sts. [(92: 100: 102: 110: 114) sts] Using Yarn A, work (2: 2: 2: 4: 4) row(s) in dc.

Using Yarn B, work 1 row in dc.

CHILD SIZES ONLY Dec row (WS) Using Yarn B, (1: 0: 0: 0) dc, *1dc, dc2tog; rep from * to last (1: 0: 0: 0) st, dc in any rem sts. [(82: 88: 96: 104) sts] Using Yarn A, work (1: 3: 3: 5) row(s) in dc.

Using Yarn B, work 1 row in dc.

ADULT SIZES ONLY

ALL SIZES

Work 1 row of dc using Yarn B and 1 row using Yarn A.

CARNATIONS Work the ‘flower’ part of the Carnation patt

TO FINISH Rejoin Yarn A at top of left front edge and work 3 rows of slip stitch for button band, fasten off.

On right front, mark position of 4 buttons on the right front with stitch markers or waste yarn. Rejoin Yarn A at bottom of right front edge and work one row of slip stitch. On the second row of slip stitch, *ss in each st to next marker, ch(6: 6: 6: 6)(7: 7: 7: 7: 7) for button loop (testing size of loop with button); rep from * 3 more times, ss in each st to end, turn. Work 1 more row of slip stitch.

Attach buttons to match button loops.

On sleeve edges, work 2 rounds of dc.

Fasten off and weave in ends, block to measurements.

SIMPLE STEPS HOW TO WORK FAIR ISLE COLOURWORK

1 Work to the point where you want to change colour and on the last stitch in the first colour, work the final yrh using the second colour.

28 WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYCROCHET

2 Work a stitch using the second colour, leaving the first colour yarn floating free at the back of the fabric.

3 Change colour again in the same way as before: on the last stitch in the second colour, work the final yrh using the first colour. Let the yarn form a long strand behind the stitches worked in the other colour.

4 This is the WS of the fabric.

Don’t pull the ‘floating’ yarn too tightly when you use it again, otherwise the fabric may pucker. On WS rows, you’ll need to strand the yarn floats across the fronts of sts.

QUEEN AMIGURUMI

coronation th em ed

Crowning glory Celebrate Queen Elizabeth II’s Platinum Jubilee with a design by Ellie’s Craft Boutique WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYCROCHET 29

QUEEN AMIGURUMI

A BIT TRICKY DK WEIGHT

2.5MM HOOK

To honour Her Majesty’s 70th year as the UK’s monarch, we’re taking it all the way back to her coronation in 1953! Elizabeth looks ready to lead in her coronation robes, complete with a sparkly golden crown and sceptre.

NOTES YOU WILL NEED Rico Essentials Cotton (100% cotton, 50g/120m) 1 ball of each: Cream (88) White (80) Nude (52) Dark Brown (113) Mauve (17) Cobalt Blue (32) Q Rico Ricorumi Lamé (62% polyester, 38% nylon, 10g/50m) 2 balls of Gold (002) Q A 2.5mm (US B/1 or C/2) hook Q 2 safety eyes, 10mm Q Black stranded cotton Q Red pencil For yarn stockists contact Rico Design www.rico-design.com/en/home Q

TENSION Tension is not critical, but it may affect the yarn quantities required

MEASUREMENTS The Queen measures approx 25cm (9 in) tall

ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 94

For

at www.blacksheepwools.com use the code 123RICO at the checkout O er ends 4 July 2022 Code cannot be used with any other codes

Pattern is worked using the amigurumi method. Work in a continuous spiral without closing off each round with a ss. You may find it helpful to mark the first st of the round, moving the marker up as you work.

Use the images as a guide for all joining and embroidery.

If you are making this toy for a child under 36 months, do not use safety eyes; instead, embroider eyes with black stranded cotton.

THE QUEEN LEGS MAKE 2 Using Cream, ch7.

Round 1 (RS) Dc in second ch from hook, dc in next 4 ch, 3dc in final ch, turn to work across opposite side of foundation ch, dc in next 4 ch, 2dc in final ch. [14 dc] Round 2 (RS) 2dc in next st, dc in next 5 sts, 2dc in next 3 sts, dc in next 3, 2dc in next 2 sts.

[20 dc] Round 3 2dc in next 2 sts, dc in next 6 st, (2dc in next st, dc in next st) twice, 2dc in next st, dc in next 4 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in next st, 2dc in last st. [27 dc] Round 4 Dc in next 2 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in next 6 sts, (2dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts) 3 times, 2dc in next st, dc in next 5 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts. [33 dc] Rounds 5-7 Dc in each st around.

Change to Gold.

Round 8 Dc in fl of each st around.

Round 9 Dc in next 10 sts, (dc2tog) 7 times, dc in next 9 sts. [26 dc] Change to Nude Round 10 (Working in bl throughout) Dc in next 8 sts, (dc2tog) 5 times, dc in next 8 sts.

[21 dc] Round 11 Dc in next 6 sts, (dc2tog) 5 times, dc in next 5 sts. [16 dc] Round 12 Dc in next 4 sts, (dc2tog) 4 times, dc in next 4 sts. [12 dc] Stuff Leg as you work.

Rounds 13-27 Dc in each st around.

Fasten off.

BODY Body is worked up from both Legs. Make sure the feet are pointing forward once joined.

Join White in first st on either Leg. Round 1 (RS) Dc in next 6 sts around Leg, ch5, dc in 12 sts around next Leg, dc in next 5 ch between Legs, dc in rem 6 sts on first Leg. [29 sts] Round 2 (RS) 2dc in next st, dc in next 5 sts, dc in each ch between Legs, dc in next 6 sts, 2dc in

30 WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYCROCHET

Embroider the white edging of the robe and crown with black stitches to resemble ermine

next st, dc in each st to end. [36 dc] Rounds 3-9 Dc in each st around.

Round 10 (Dc in next 4 sts, dc2tog) 6 times.

[30 dc] Round 11 Dc in each st around.

Change to Cream.

Round 12 Dc in bl of each st around.

Rounds 13-16 Dc in each st around.

Stuff the Body firmly as you work.

Round 17 (Dc in next 3 sts, dc2tog) 6 times.

[24 dc] Rounds 18-19 Dc in each st around.

Round 20 (Dc in next 2 sts, dc2tog) 6 times.

[18 dc] Round 21 Dc in each st around.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail.

HEAD Using Nude, make a magic loop.

Round 1 Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), 6dc in loop. [6 dc] Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 dc] Round 3 (Dc in next st, 2dc in next st) 6 times.

[18 dc] Round 4 (Dc in next 2 sts, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [24 dc] Round 5 (Dc in next 3 sts, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [30 dc] Round 6 (Dc in next 4 sts, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [36 dc] Round 7 (Dc in next 5 sts, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [42 dc] Round 8 (Dc in next 6 sts, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [48 dc] Rounds 9-18 Dc in each st around.

Change to Brown.

QUEEN AMIGURUMI

Round 19 Dc in each st around.

Round 20 Dc in bl of each st around.

Round 21 Dc in each st around.

Round 22 (Dc in next 6 sts, dc2tog) 6 times.

[42 dc] Round 23 (Dc in next 5 sts, dc2tog) 6 times.

[36 dc] Round 24 (Dc in next 4 sts, dc2tog) 6 times.

[30 dc] Round 25 (Dc in next 3 sts, dc2tog) 6 times.

[24 dc] Position safety eyes between Rounds 13-14, 10 sts apart.

Stuff the Head as you work.

Round 26 (Dc in next 2 sts, dc2tog) 6 times.

[18 sts] Round 27 (Dc in next st, dc2tog) 6 times. [12 dc] Round 28 (Dc2tog) 6 times.

Fasten off.

Thread tail through fl of final 6 sts and pull tight to close.

Using black stranded cotton, embroider the eyelash line.

Using Nude, embroider the nose with horizontal sts.

Sew the Head to the Body.

HAIR Join Brown to front-centre unused fl from Round 19.

Row 1 (RS) Ch1, dc in each st around, ss to beg dc. [48 dc] Row 2 (RS) Dc in next 2 sts after ss, htr in 2 next sts, tr in next 3 sts, htr in next 3 sts, pm in last st, dc in next 28 sts, htr in next 2 sts, tr in next 3 sts, htr in next 2 sts, dc in next 2 sts, ss in joining ss on Row 1.

Fasten off.

Rejoin Brown in marked st.

Row 3 (RS) Ch1, dc in next 30 sts, turn. [30 sts] Row 4 (WS) Ch1, (dc in next 4 sts, 2dc in next st) 3 times, (2dc in next st, dc in next 4 sts) 3 times, turn. [36 dc] Row 5 Ch1, dc in each st to across, turn.

Row 6 Ch1, (dc in next 5 sts, 2dc in next st) 3 times, (2dc in next st, dc in next 5 st) 3 times, turn. [42 dc] Row 7 Ch1, dc in each st to across, turn.

Row 8 Ch1, (dc in next 6 sts, 2dc in next st) 3 times, (2dc in next st, dc in next 6 sts) 3 times, turn. [48 sts] Rows 9-10 Ch1, dc in each st around.

Row 11 Ch1, (dc in next 6 sts, dc2tog) 3 times, (dc2tog, dc in next 6 st) 3 times. [42 dc] Row 12 Ch1, (dc in next 5 sts, dc2tog) 3 times, (dc2tog, dc in next 5 st) 3 times. [36 dc] Row 13 Ch1, (dc in next 4 sts, dc2tog) 3 times, (dc2tog, dc in next 4 st) 3 times. [30 dc] Row 14 Ch1, (dc in next 3 sts, dc2tog) 3 times, (dc2tog, dc in next 3 st) 3 times. [24 dc] Row 15 Ch1, (dc in next 2 sts, dc2tog) 3 times, (dc2tog, dc in next 2 st) 3 times. [18 dc] Row 16 Ch1, (dc in next st, dc2tog) 3 times,

(dc2tog, dc in next st) 3 times. [12 dc] Row 17 Ch1, (dc2tog) 6 times.

Fasten off.

Line up the final row of the Hair with the top of the Body and secure with a pin. Using Brown, sew the Hair in place across the base and row-ends, lightly stuffing as you join.

CROWN Using White, ch55 and ss in last ch from hook to join, being careful not to twist the ch.

Rounds 1-4 Dc in each st around. [54 dc] Round 5 Dc in bl of each st around.

Rounds 6-8 Dc in each st around.

Change to Gold.

Round 9 As Round 5.

Round 10 (Working in fl only) (Dc in next 7 sts, dc2tog) 6 times. [48 dc] Round 11 (Dc in next 3 sts, ch2, skip 2 sts, dc in next 3 sts) 6 times. [36 dc, 6 ch-2 sps] Round 12 *Dc in next 2 sts, htr in next st, (htr, 2tr, dtr, 2tr, htr) in ch-2 sp, htr in next st, dc in next 2 sts; rep from * 5 times more, ss in beg dc.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Join Mauve in unused bl from Round 9.

Round 13 Dc in each st around. [54 dc] Round 14 (Dc in next 7 st, dc2tog) 6 times.

[48 dc] Rounds 15-16 Dc in each st around.

Round 17 (Dc in next 6 st, dc2tog) 6 times.

[42 dc] Round 18 (Dc in next 5 st, dc2tog) 6 times.

[36 dc] Round 18 Dc in each st around.

Round 19 (Dc in next 4 st, dc2tog) 6 times.

[30 dc] Round 20 (Dc in next 3 sts, dc2tog) 6 times.

[24 dc] Round 21 (Dc in next 2 st, dc2tog) 6 times.

[18 dc] Round 22 (Dc in next st, dc2tog) 6 times. [12 dc] Round 23 (Dc2tog) 6 times.

Fasten off.

Fold the bottom 4 rows up to the bottom of the Gold row and sew in place.

Using black stranded cotton, embroider straight sts around the centre of the lower White section.

SKIRT Join Cream in any unused fl from Round 11 of Body.

Round 1 (RS) Dc in each st around. [30 dc] Round 2 (RS) (Dc in next 4 st, 2dc in next) 6 times. [36 dc] Rounds 3-4 Dc in each st around.

Round 5 (Dc in next 5 st, 2dc in next) 6 times.

[42 dc] Rounds 6-7 Dc in each st around.

Round 8 (Dc in next 6 st, 2dc in next) 6 times.

[48 dc] Rounds 9-10 Dc in each st around.

To get the fullness of the hair, add stuffing as you stitch the piece in place on the head

Begin the crown with the white edging and finish in the centre of the purple section

The skirt is worked from the waistline of the body and trimmed with gold at the hem

Round 11 (Dc in next 7 st, 2dc in next) 6 times.

[54 dc] Rounds 12-13 Dc in each st around.

Round 14 (Dc in next 8 st, 2dc in next) 6 times.

[60 dc] Rounds 15-16 Dc in each st around.

Round 17 (Dc in next 9 st, 2dc in next) 6 times.

[66 dc] Rounds 18-22 Dc in each st around.

Round 23 (Dc in next 10 st, 2dc in next) 6 times.

[72 dc] Rounds 24-28 Dc in each st around.

Round 29 (Dc in next 11 st, 2dc in next) 6 times.

[78 dc] Round 30 Dc in bl of each st around.

Rounds 31-34 Dc in each st around.

Fasten off.

Join Gold to any unused fl from Round 30.

Round 35 Dc in each st around. [78 dc] Round 36 Ch5 (counts as tr, ch2), skip 2 sts, (tr in next st, ch2, skip 2 sts) 24 times, Tr in next st, ch1, dc in third ch of beg ch-5 (counts as ch-2 sp). [26 tr, 26 ch-2 sps] WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYCROCHET 31

QUEEN AMIGURUMI

Round 37 Working through Round 36 and the sts from Round 34 throughout, dc in each st and ch around. [78 dc] Round 38 Dc in each st around, ss to beg dc.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

BELT Using Gold, ch34.

Row 1 (RS) Htr in fourth ch from hook, (ch2, skip 2 sts, htr in next st) 10 times.

Fasten off.

Place around the waist and sew into place.

NECK Using Nude, ch4.

Row 1 (RS) Dc in second ch from hook and each ch to end, turn. [3 dc] Row 2 (WS) Ch1, 2dc in next st, dc in next st, 2dc in last st, turn. [5 dc] Round 3 Ch1, dc in next 5 sts, 2dc in row-end edge, 3dc across base of foundation ch, 2dc in next row-end edge, ss to beg dc. [12 dc] Fasten off.

Sew the Neck to the top of the Body at the front, with the top lining up with the Head.

COLLAR Using Gold, ch26.

Row 1 (RS) Dc in second ch from hook and each ch across, turn. [25 dc] Row 2 Ch1, dc in each st across.

Fasten off.

Pin the Collar around the lower edge of the Neck and sew into place.

ARMS (MAKE 2) Using Nude, make a magic loop.

Round 1 (RS) Ch1, 5dc in loop. [5 dc] Round 2 (RS) 2dc in each st around. [10 dc] Rounds 3-18 Dc in each st around.

Stuff arm lightly as you work.

Rounds 19-20 Dc in each st around.

Change to Cream.

Round 21 Dc in fl of each st around.

Round 22 (Dc in next st, 2dc in next st) 5 times.

[15 dc] Rounds 23-25 Dc in each st around.

Round 26 (Dc in next st, dc2tog) 5 times.

[10 dc] Round 27 (Dc2tog) 5 times.

Fasten off.

Thread the tail through the fl of final 5 sts and pull tight to close.

Sew Arms either side of the Body.

ROBE The Robe is worked from the top, down.

Using Mauve, ch14.

Row 1 Tr in third ch from hook and each ch to end, turn. [12 tr] Row 2 Ch2 (does not count as st throughout), tr in next st, 2tr in next st, tr in next 8 st, 2tr in next st, tr in last st, turn. [14 tr] 32 WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYCROCHET

Row 3 Ch2, tr in each st across, turn.

Row 4 Ch2, tr in first st, 2tr in next st, tr in each st to final 2 sts, 2tr in next st, tr in last st, turn.

[16 tr] Row 5 As Row 3.

Rows 6-19 Rep Rows 4-5 another 7 times.

[30 tr] Rows 20-24 Ch1, dc2tog, htr in next st, tr in each st to final 3 sts, htr in next st, dc2tog, turn.

[20 sts] Fasten off.

With RS facing, join Mauve in first row-end to work down the side of Robe.

Row 25 Ch1, dc in each row-end down to Row 24, dc in each st from Row 24, dc in each row-end up to the top of the Robe. [68 sts] Fasten off.

Change to White.

Row 26 Ch1, dc in bl of each st across, turn.

Row 27 Ch1, dc in each unused fl from Row 25, turn.

Row 28 Ch1, working into the sts of Rows 26 and 27 to join, dc in each st around.

Fasten off.

Using black stranded cotton, embroider the straight sts over the White edging.

ROBE TIES (MAKE 2) Using Gold, ch31.

Row 1 Ss in second ch from hook and each ch across.

Fasten off.

Sew to the top corners of the Robe.

SASH Using Cobalt Blue, ch4.

Row 1 (RS) Dc in second ch from hook and each ch across, turn. [4 dc] Rows 2-38 Ch1, dc in each st across, turn.

Line up the 2 short edges and dc together.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Place over the Body.

ORB

BALL Using Gold, make a magic loop.

Rounds 1-4 (RS) As Rounds 1-4 of Head. [24 dc] Round 5 Dc in each st around.

Change to Mauve.

Round 6 Dc in bl of each st around.

Round 7 Dc in each st around.

Change to Gold.

Round 8 Dc in fl of each st around.

Round 10 Dc in each st around.

Round 11 (Dc in next 2 st, dc2tog) 6 times.

[18 dc] Round 12 (Dc in next st, dc2tog) 6 times. [12 dc] Stuff Ball firmly.

Round 13 (Dc2tog) 6 times, ch6, ss in third st of round, turn, dc in each ch of ch-6, ss in st at base of ch-6 (hanging loop made).

Fasten off.

Use the tail to close the final round.

Work the shoes as part of working the feet, which is the first part of the pattern

The cross of the orb is made in two pieces and sewn together around the outer edges

CROSS (MAKE 2) Using Gold, make a magic loop.

Row 1 (RS) Ch1, 8dc in loop, turn. [8 dc] Row 2 (RS) Ch1, 2dc in next 2 sts, turn leaving rem sts unworked. [2 dc] Rows 3-5 Ch1, dc in next 2 sts, turn.

Fasten off.

Rejoin Gold to third st from Row 1.

Rows 6-7 As Rows 3-5.

Fasten off.

Rejoin Gold to fifth st from Row 1.

Rows 8-9 As Rows 3-5.

Fasten off.

Rejoin Gold to seventh st from Row 1.

Rows 10-11 As Rows 3-5.

Fasten off.

Place the 2 Crosses together with RS facing out.

Sew together to form the cross shape.

Sew to the top of the Ball.

Place Orb around the Arm using the hanging loop.

TO FINISH Weave in any rem ends.

Tie the Robe around the Body.

Use a red pencil to add colour to the cheeks.

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JESS’ JOURNAL studio ...f rom the

Learn how to use up every bit of yarn in your stash with Jess Bennett’s eco-friendly guide to getting creative with scraps of all sizes ow do you crochet with scrap yarn? I’m not talking about using full balls or skeins of yarn from your stash.

This is about using leftover yarn, partial balls, short lengths and ends. Yes, ends of yarn that you weave in and trim off! As more and more of us are thinking about the environmental impact of our chosen hobby, as well as the cost of purchasing new yarn, we’re discovering some great new ways of using scrap yarn in crochet projects. As well as being great for sustainability and affordability, using scraps of yarn sparks creativity as you have to adapt your patterns or colour choices to suit the yarn you have. It also may encourage you to put colours together that you wouldn’t usually choose or play with different textures.

H

SORTING AND PREPARING SCRAP YARN Being able to use scrap yarn for projects does need a bit of planning and storing. You’re much less likely to use your scrap yarn if you have hours of untangling and sorting to do before you can start crocheting. One way to store it is by tying lengths of scrap yarn together using magic knots and then rolling them up into a ball. This means that when you want to start a project you can just grab a ball as you would out of your stash. You can make a few balls at the same time – say,

a ball of pastel colours – or you could group warm or cold colours together. Or you could just embrace the ‘anything goes’ nature of using scrap yarn and add different colours and textures at random.

You could also group yarns together by weight and store them in separate bags. When using these yarns in your projects, it will create something that’s multi-coloured but with an even texture. Or you could group yarns together by colour, and this will create something with more variation in texture. There’s lots of fun to be had in making a project using yarns with lots of different textures and weights, but you won’t get an even finish so make sure this is going to work for the project. For instance, a cushion made with a mixture of yarns could look really striking but this might not work when making a garment as it could affect the shape and fit.

ON GOING PROJECT Once you have your scrap yarn organised you can choose what to make. You could have an on-going project, such as a simple blanket that you keep adding leftover yarn to. It can be really nice to have something simple on the go for when your brain isn’t feeling up to anything complicated. A blanket using treble crochet, C2C or granny squares can be simple

ftover This is about using le rt s shor ial balls, p , part arn, yarn ya y lengths and ends

Tie lengths of scrap yarn together

Use scraps as stuffing!

Jess sa ys you ca n get cr wa ys by using up your ea ti ve in n ew leftover ya rn

You can also use a scrap ball in a mosaic crochet project and relaxing, and the unplanned colours of scrap yarn can keep it visually interesting. If you finish another project and have some yarn left over you just add it onto your blanket.

WOVEN LOOK CROCHET Another way to use short lengths of scrap yarn is in crochet that mimics woven fabric. This can be achieved by crocheting over another strand of yarn using moss stitch or a fillet pattern. The worked-over yarn shows through in the chain spaces and it looks like the finished piece has been woven.

This works well for blankets, rugs and cushions, and you can use any texture or weight of yarn.

Another technique is to work a fillet mesh and then weave strands of yarn into the mesh using a tapestry needle. You could make a really striking cowl using this technique. This works really well with chunky yarn.

USING A SCRAP BALL If you do decide to make up balls of your yarn scraps by knotting them together, then there are a few ways you can work this into your crochet projects. One is to use a scrap yarn ball held together with a base yarn – a shade that’s consistent throughout and pulls the project together. You can make some really interesting garments using this technique. You can also use your scrap yarn ball in a mosaic crochet project. If you choose a contrasting yarn for the alternative rows this can look stunning, a bit like mosaic crochet with a yarn cake.

So, grab that scrap yarn and get creative – the environment and your project list will thank you for it.

Follow Jess on at on Instagram at @rock_salt_plum and find her on Ravelry and LoveCrafts as rocksaltplum

how jess uses her ends Not a fan of weaving in ends? Do you think it might feel a bit more exciting if you could turn those ends into something else? Store them up and when you have enough you can use them for stuffing!

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EMBELLISH A BLANKET

Cactus trim

desert dreams Capture a sunset scene in an arid North American landscape with this blanket border by Lucy Croft

WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYCROCHET 39

EMBELLISH A BLANKET

EASY PEASY DK WEIGHT

4MM HOOK

Stately saguaros tower atop dusky hills and pink textured owers bloom as the sun dips down below the horizon, turning the sky into a painter’s palette of pinks, oranges and yellows in this beautifully detailed edging.

NOTES YOU WILL NEED Q Cygnet DK

(100% acrylic, 100g/298m) 1 ball of each: Barley (4884) Sunshine (184) Coral (422) Fuchsia (676) Mocha (432) Black (217) Fern (2759) Apple (6711) Kiwi (303) Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook Q Cotton muslin blanket, 108x108cm For yarn stockists contact Cygnet Yarns 01274 743374 www.cygnetyarns.com

The Panel is worked in rows throughout.

There is a Chart on page 97, which you will need to refer to when making the Panel. Each small square represents 1dc. Read all RS rows from right to left and WS rows from left to right. A square marked with an x represents a bobble. The first few rows of the Chart have been written out to guide you.

Rather than carrying the yarn across your work, wind off smaller balls of each colour.

When changing colour leave the unused colour on the WS ready to use again on the next row.

The charted area should measure 108cm long.

If you need to make a shorter edge, use the tension to select the number of rows you need to work. To make the edging longer, you can work the rows of the Chart backwards from the end until you reach the desired length.

TENSION

BLANKET

15 sts and 17 rows measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over double crochet using a 4mm hook, or size needed to obtain correct tension

PANEL Using Barley, ch31.

Border row (RS) Dc in second ch from hook and each ch across, turn. [30 dc] Change to Fuchsia.

Row 2 (WS) Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), dc in next 12 sts, change to Coral, dc in next 6 sts, change to Barley, dc in next 2 sts, change to Black, dc in next 6 sts, change to Mocha, dc in final 4 sts, turn.

Row 3 Ch1, dc in first 4 sts, change to Black, dc in next 6 sts, change to Barley, dc in next 3 sts, change to Coral, dc in next st, change to Fern, dc in next 2 sts, change to Coral, dc in next 2 sts, change to Fuchsia, dc in next 12 sts, turn.

Cont to follow the Chart to desired length.

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

MEASUREMENTS Panel measures 20cm (7 in) wide, length can be adapted to size of blanket used

ABBREVIATIONS bobble Using colour indicated, *yrh, insert hook in st, yrh and pull up a loop, yrh and pull through 2 loops on hook; rep from * 4 times more, yrh and pull through all loops on hook For a full list, see page 94

Wind off small balls of yarn to work each colour separately, then weave in all ends to tidy

Cactus blooms are created with bobbles and spikes are added with emboidered stitches

EDGING Row 1 worked in Barley counts as one side of the Edging.

Row 1 (RS) Ch1, *dc in each st and row-end to next corner, (dc, ch1, dc) in corner; rep from * twice more.

Fasten off.

TO FINISH Using Black and Barley, embroider details on the cacti. You can use the images as a guide.

Sew the Panel to a long edge of your blanket.

40 WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYCROCHET

Finish the panel with a constrasting border worked in double crochet all around

Matching top and cardigan

42 WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYCROCHET

TWIN SET

two of a kind You’ll look perfectly put together in this coordinated cardi and top by Margaret Hubert

WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYCROCHET 43

TWIN SET

This timeless two-piece ensemble is sure to become a staple of your warm-weather wardrobe. The classic shape and fresh shades combine to create a set that feels both fun and sophisticated – just like you!

GO PRO 4PLY WEIGHT

3.75MM HOOK

NOTES YOU WILL NEED

Twin Set is made up of a Vest and Cardigan.

The Vest is made using the Shell Stitch Pattern for the Front and Back. Pieces are sewn together at the end.

The Cardigan is worked in the Catherine Wheel Stitch Pattern throughout. Both stitch patterns are written out first and referred to within each pattern.

We recommend blocking the Vest and Cardigan at the end.

Scheepjes Metropolis (75% Merino, 25% nylon, 50g/200m) Yarn A Dubai (047) Yarn B Bangalore (052) See table for measurements and yarn quantities Q A 3.75mm (US F/5) hook Q Stitch markers For yarn stockists contact Scheepjes www.scheepjes.com/en Q

TWIN SET SHELL STITCH PATTERN Row 1 (WS) Ch3 (counts as htr, ch1), dc in first st, *(tr, ch2, tr) in next ch-3 sp, (dc, ch3, dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep from * across to final st, (dc, ch1, htr) in final st, turn.

Row 2 (RS) Ch3 (counts as tr), tr in st at base of ch-3, *(dc, ch3, dc) in next ch-2 sp, (tr, ch2, tr) in next ch-3 sp; rep from * across to final st, 2tr in final st, turn.

Rows 1-2 set the pattern.

Change colour after every Row 2 repeat.

TENSION 3.5 pattern repeats and 12 rows measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over shell pattern using a 3.75mm hook, or size needed to obtain the correct tension 3 pattern repeats and 9 rows measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over Catherine wheel stitch pattern using a 3.75mm hook, or size needed to obtain correct tension

CATHERINE WHEEL STITCH PATTERN Row 1 (WS) Ch3, skip first st, tr3tog next 4 sts,

ABBREVIATIONS

ch3, dc in next st, *ch3, tr7tog next 7 sts, ch3, dc in next st; rep from * across to final 5 sts, ch3, tr3tog, tr in final st, turn.

Row 2 (RS) Ch3, 3tr in next st, *dc in next dc, 7tr in next tr7og; rep from * across to final dc, dc in final dc, 4tr in last st, turn.

Row 3 Ch1, dc in first st, *ch3, tr7tog next 7 sts, ch3, dc in n ext st; rep from * across to final st, dc in final st, turn.

Row 4 Ch1, dc in first st, (7tr in next tr7tog, dc in next dc) rep across to end, turn.

Rows 1-4 set the pattern.

VEST BACK Using Yarn A, ch113 (129: 145: 161).

Foundation row Tr in fourth ch from hook, *skip 3 ch, (dc, ch3, dc) in next ch, skip 3 ch, (tr, ch2, tr) in next ch; rep from * 12 (14: 16: 18) times more, skip 3 ch, (dc, ch3, dc) in next ch, 2tr in final ch, turn. [14 (16: 18: 20) shell patt reps] Rep Rows 1-2 of Shell Stitch Pattern until piece measures 33 (33: 33: 31) cm, ending on a Row 1 rep.

ARMHOLE SHAPING Continue to change colour at the end of every second row.

Row 1 Ss in first (htr, dc, 2tr, 2dc, tr), ch3, tr in st at base of ch-3, skip next ch-2 sp, *(tr, ch2, tr) in next ch-3 sp, (dc, ch3, dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep from * 9 (11: 13: 15) times more, *(tr, ch2, tr) in next ch-3 sp, skip next tr, skip next ch-2 sp, 2tr

For a full list, see page 94 SIZE TO FIT BUST

S

M

L

XL

cm

81-86

91-96

101-106

111-117

in

32-34

36-38

40-42

44-46

cm

82

93.5

105.5

117

36

41

46

VEST b

ACTUAL BUST APPROX LENGTH

a

in cm in

32

54

54

19

50

20

52

21

21

YARN A

50g

2

2

3

3

YARN B

50g

2

2

2

3

cm

90

100

117

131

39

46

51

60

60

CARDIGAN c b

ACTUAL BUST APPROX LENGTH

a Vest Width a: 41 (46.5: 52.5: . )cm, 16 (18 : 20 : 23)in Length b: 50 (52: 54: 54)cm, 19 (20 : 21 : 21 )in Cardigan Width a: 45 (50: 58.5: 65.5)cm, 17 (19 : 23: 25 )in Length b: 56 (58: 60: 60)cm, 22 (22 : 23 : 23 )in Sleeve length c: 40cm (15 )in

44 WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYCROCHET

SLEEVE LENGTH

in

35

cm

56

in

22

cm

40

in

58 22 40

15

15

23

23

40 15

40 15

YARN A

50g

8

9

10

11

YARN B

50g

1

2

2

3

To make this pattern easier to follow, we’ve colour-coded the sizing instructions – simply follow the relevant column.

TWIN SET

in next st, turn. [10 (12: 14: 16) shell pat reps] Row 2 Ch3, skip next tr, *(dc, ch3, dc) in next ch-2 sp, (tr, ch2, tr) in next ch-3 sp; rep from * across to final 2 sts, skip next 2, tr in final st, turn.

Row 3 Ch3, tr in first ch-3 sp, *(dc, ch3, dc) in next ch-2 sp, (tr, ch2, tr) in next ch-3 sp; rep from * across to final ch-3 sp, tr in final ch-3 sp, tr in final st, turn. [9 (11: 13: 15) shell pat reps]

SIZES L AND XL ONLY Row 4 Ch3, skip next tr, tr in next ch-3 sp, *(dc, ch3, dc) in next ch-2 sp, (tr, ch2, tr) in next ch-3 sp; rep from * across to final ch-3 sp, tr in final ch-3 sp, tr in final st, turn.

[- (-: 12: 14) shell pat reps] Rep last row – (-: 0: 1) more time.

[- (-: 12: 13) shell pat reps]

ALL SIZES Cont following Shell Stitch Pattern until Back measures 49 (51: 53: 53)cm, ending on a Row 2 rep.

NECKLINE SHAPING SIZE S ONLY Row 1 (WS) Ch3, tr in st at base of ch-3, (dc, ch3, dc) in next ch-2 sp, (tr, ch2, tr) in next ch-3 sp, (dc, ch3, dc) in next ch-2 sp, 2tr in next ch-3 sp, turn.

Row 2 Ch3, skip next tr, (tr, ch2, tr) in next ch-3 sp, (dc, ch3, dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep across to final 2 sts, skip next 2, (dc, ch1, htr) in final st.

Fasten off.

With WS facing, join yarn in fourth ch-sp from end.

Row 1 (WS) Ch3, tr in same ch-3 sp, (dc, ch3, dc) in next ch-2 sp, (tr, ch2, tr) in next ch-3 sp, (dc, ch3, dc) in next ch-2 sp, tr in final st, turn.

Row 2 Ch3, skip next tr, (tr, ch2, tr) in next ch-3 sp, (dc, ch3, dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep across to final 2 sts, skip next st, (dc, ch1, htr) in final st.

Fasten off.

SIZES M, L AND XL ONLY Row 1 Ch3, tr in st at base of ch-3, *(dc, ch3, dc) in next ch-2 sp, (tr, ch2, tr) in next ch-3 sp; rep from * - (1: 1: 1) times more, (dc, ch3, dc) in next ch-2 sp, 2tr in next ch-3 sp, turn.

Row 2 Ch3, skip next tr, (tr, ch2, tr) in next ch-3 sp, (dc, ch3, dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep across to final 2 sts, skip next 2, (dc, ch1, htr) in final st.

Fasten off.

With WS facing, join yarn in – (6th: 6th: 6th) ch-sp from end.

Row 1 (WS) Ch3, tr in same ch-3 sp, *(dc, ch3, dc) in next ch-2 sp, (tr, ch2, tr) in next ch-3 sp; rep from * to final ch-2 sp, (dc, ch3, dc) in next ch-2 sp, 2tr in final st, turn.

Row 2 Ch3, skip next tr, (tr, ch2, tr) in next ch-3 sp, (dc, ch3, dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep across to final 2 sts, skip next st, (dc, ch1, htr) in final st.

Fasten off.

FRONT Work as Back to end of Armhole Shaping and until piece measures 39 (41: 43: 43)cm, ending on a Row 2 repeat.

NECKLINE SHAPING SIZE S ONLY Row 1 (WS) Ch3, tr in st at base of ch-3, (dc, ch3, dc) in next ch-2 sp, (tr, ch2, tr) in next ch-3 sp, (dc, ch3, dc) in next ch-2 sp, 2tr in next ch-3 sp, turn.

Row 2 Ch3, skip next tr, (tr, ch2, tr) in next ch-3 sp, (dc, ch3, dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep across to final 2 sts, skip next 2, (dc, ch1, htr) in final st.

Continue in patt until Front measures same length as Back.

Fasten off.

With WS facing, join yarn in fourth ch-sp from end.

Row 1 (WS) Ch3, tr in same ch-3 sp, (dc, ch3, dc) in next ch-2 sp, (tr, ch2, tr) in next ch-3 sp, (dc, ch3, dc) in next ch-2 sp, tr in final st, turn.

Row 2 Ch3, skip next tr, (tr, ch2, tr) in next ch-3 sp, (dc, ch3, dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep across to final 2 sts, skip next st, (dc, ch1, htr) in final st.

Continue in patt until Front measures same length as Back.

Work the vest in shell stitch pattern and change colour after every two-row repeat

SIZES M, L AND XL ONLY Row 1 Ch3, tr in st at base of ch-3, *(dc, ch3, dc) in next ch-2 sp, (tr, ch2, tr) in next ch-3 sp; rep from * - (1: 1: 1) times more, (dc, ch3, dc) in next ch-2 sp, 2tr in next ch-3 sp, turn.

Row 2 Ch3, skip next tr, (tr, ch2, tr) in next ch-3 sp, (dc, ch3, dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep across to final 2 sts, skip next 2, (dc, ch1, htr) in final st.

Continue in patt until Front measures same length as Back.

Fasten off.

With WS facing, join yarn in – (6th: 6th: 6th) ch-sp from end.

Row 1 (WS) Ch3, tr in same ch-3 sp, *(dc, ch3, dc) in next ch-2 sp, (tr, ch2, tr) in next ch-3 sp; rep from * to final ch-2 sp, (dc, ch3, dc) in next ch-2 sp, 2tr in final st, turn.

Row 2 Ch3, skip next tr, (tr, ch2, tr) in next ch-3 sp, (dc, ch3, dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep across to final 2 sts, skip next st, (dc, ch1, htr) in final st.

Continue in patt until Front measures same length as Back.

Fasten off.

TO MAKE UP Sew the side and shoulder seams together.

ARMHOLE EDGING With RS facing, join Yarn A in underarm seam.

Round 1 (RS) Ch1, dc evenly around armhole opening, ss to be dc.

Round 2 (RS) Ch1, dc in each st around, ss to beg dc.

Rep Round 2 another 0 (0: 1: 1) times.

Fasten off and repeat on second armhole.

The neckline and armholes edges are finished with a double crochet trim worked in Yarn A

The foundation row, worked on chains, creates a loosely-flowing lacy hem

NECKLINE EDGING With RS facing, join Yarn A in shoulder seam.

Round 1 (RS) Ch1, dc evenly around Neckline Opening, ss to beg dc.

Round 2 (RS) Ch1, dc in each st around, ss to beg dc.

Rep Round 2 another 0 (0: 1: 1) times.

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYCROCHET 45

TWIN SET

CARDIGAN BACK Using Yarn A, ch80 (92: 104: 116) Foundation row (RS) Dc in second ch from hook, (skip 2 ch, 7tr in next ch, skip 2 ch, dc in next ch) rep across to end, turn.

[13 (15: 17: 19) patt reps] Work in Catherine Wheel Stitch Pattern using the following colour sequence: 4 rows in Yarn A, 2 rows in Yarn B, 2 rows in Yarn A, 2 rows in Yarn B, 6 rows in Yarn A, 2 rows in Yarn B. Then work in Yarn A until Back measures 38 (38: 38: 36) cm, ending on a Row 3 repeat.

Fasten off.

ARMHOLE SHAPING With RS facing, join Yarn A in second dc.

Next row Ch1, dc in first st, (7tr in next tr7tog, dc in next dc) rep across to penultimate dc, dc in dc, turn leaving last tr7tog and dc unworked.

[11 (13: 15: 17) patt reps] Cont in patt until Back measures 56 (58: 60: 60) cm.

Fasten off.

FRONTS Work in the same colour sequence as for Back.

Next row Ch1, dc in first st, (7tr in next tr7tog, dc in next dc) rep across to end, turn.

[5 (6: 7: 8) patt reps] Continue is patt until Left Front measures 46 (48: 50: 50)cm, ending on a row 3 repeat.

Do not fasten off.

NECKLINE SHAPING Next row (RS) Ch1, dc in first st, (7tr in next tr7tog, dc in next dc) 3 (4: 4: 5) times, turn.

[3 (4: 4: 5) patt reps] Continue is patt until Left Front measures 56 (58: 60: 60)cm.

Fasten off.

SLEEVES (MAKE 2) Using Yarn A, ch56 (62: 74: 80) Foundation row (RS) Dc in second ch from hook, (skip 2 ch, 7tr in next ch, skip 2 ch, dc in next ch) rep across to end, turn.

[9 (10: 12: 13) patt reps] Work in patt until sleeve measures 38cm for all size.

Fasten off.

TO MAKE UP Sew the Fronts to the Back at the shoulders and sides. Sew the Sleeves into place and seam the sleeve seams.

RIGHT FRONT Using Yarn A, ch38 (44: 50: 56).

Foundation row (RS) Dc in second ch from hook, (skip 2 ch, 7tr in next ch, skip 2 ch, dc in next ch) rep across to end, turn.

[6 (7: 8: 9) patt reps] Work as Back to Armhole Shaping, ending on a WS row.

Do not fasten off.

CUFFS With RS facing, join Yarn A into end of Sleeve.

Round 1 (RS) Ch1, dc in each ch around, ss to beg dc. [55 (61: 73: 79) sts] Round 2 Ch1, *dc in next 9 (8: 4: 4) sts, dc2tog; rep from * to end, ss to beg dc.

[50 (55: 61: 66) sts]

ARMHOLE SHAPING

SIZES L AND XL ONLY

Next row Ch1, dc in first st, (7tr in next tr7tog, dc in next dc) rep across to penultimate dc, dc in dc, turn leaving last tr7tog and dc unworked, turn. [5 (6: 7: 8) patt reps] Continue is patt until Right Front measures 46 (48: 50: 50)cm, ending on a row 3 repeat.

Fasten off.

Round 3 Ch1, dc in first – (- : 0: 3) sts, (dc2tog, dc in next 8 sts) 6 times, dc in each st to end, ss to beg dc. [- (- : 55: 60) sts]

NECKLINE SHAPING With RS facing, join Yarn A in 3rd (3rd: 4th: 4th) dc.

Next row (RS) Ch1, dc in first st, (7tr in next tr7tog, dc in next dc) rep across to end, turn.

[3 (4: 4: 5) patt reps] Continue is patt until Right Front measures 56 (58: 60: 60)cm.

Fasten off.

LEFT FRONT Work as Left Front to Armhole Shaping.

Fasten off.

ARMHOLE SHAPING With RS facing, join Yarn A in second dc.

46 WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYCROCHET

A trio of stripes and cinched-in sleeves are standout design features of the cardigan

ALL SIZES Change to Yarn B. Next round Ch1, dc in each st around, ss to beg dc.

Rep last round once more in Yarn B and twice more in Yarn A. Fasten off.

Repeat on second Sleeve.

FRONT EDGING With RS facing, join Yarn A in bottom-right corner of Front opening.

Row 1 (RS) Ch1, 6dc in each 4-row rep up to top corner, 3dc in top-corner (pm in second dc of 3-dc group), dc evenly around Neckline Opening to next corner, pm in dc of both row-ends of first row of neckline shaping, 3dc in top-left corner (pm in second dc of 3-dc group, 6dc in each 4-row rep to bottom left corner, turn. [4 markers]

The ‘wheels’ in the cardigan’s stitch pattern are created by working seven trebles together

Row 2 (WS) Ch1, dc in each st to first marker, 3dc in first marked st, move marker to second dc of 3-dc group, dc in each st to next marker, skip marked st, dc in next st, pm in last st, dc in each st to next marker, skip marked st, pm in last dc, dc in each st to next marker, 3dc in marked st, move marker to second dc of 3-dc group, dc in each st to end, turn.

Change to Yarn B. Rows 3-4 As Row 2.

Change to Yarn A. Round 5 (RS) As Row 2 to end, do not turn, 3dc in corner, dc in each ch around hem of Cardigan, 3dc in next corner, ss to beg dc.

Round 6 As Row 2 to final st, dc in each st around Hem, ss to beg dc.

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

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GRANNY SQUARE BLANKET

Right at home Snuggle into this cosy granny square throw by Sally Shepherd

easy large project

48 WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYCROCHET

GRANNY SQUARE BLANKET

For a fun and relaxing make, look no further than this simple yet substantial blanket made of 60 easy-to-hook squares.

EASY PEASY DK WEIGHT

4MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED Stylecraft Special DK (100% acrylic, 100g/295m) 6 balls of Cream (1005) 1 ball of each: Spice (1711) Cornish Blue (1841) Apple (1852) Pomegranate (1083) Empire (1829) Sunshine (1114) Violet (1277) Turquoise (1068) Raspberry (1023) Pale Rose (1080) Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook For yarn stockists contact Stylecraft 01484 848435 www.stylecraft-yarns.co.uk

NOTES Blanket is made up of 60 Squares. All Squares are made first and joined together with a dc seam.

Q

TENSION Tension is not critical, but it may affect the yarn quantities required

MEASUREMENTS Blanket measures approx 85x135cm (33 x53 in)

ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 94

BLANKET SQUARES MAKE 60 Make 9 using Spice, Cornish Blue, Apple and Pomegranate.

Make 8 using Empire, Sunshine and Violet.

Make a magic loop.

Round 1 (RS) Ch3 (counts as tr throughout), 2tr in loop, ch3, (3tr in loop, ch3) 3 times, ss to top of beg ch-3. [4 3-tr groups] Fasten off.

Join Cream in any ch-3 sp.

Round 2 (RS) Ch3, (2tr, ch3, 3tr) in same sp, (3tr, ch3, 3tr) in each ch-3 sp around, ss to top of beg ch-3. [8 3-tr groups, 4 ch-3 sps] Round 3 Ss to next ch-3 sp, ch3, (2tr, ch3, 3tr) in same space, *3tr in sp between 3-tr groups, (3tr, ch3, 3tr) in next ch-3 sp; rep from * twice more, 3tr in sp between 3-tr groups, ss to top of beg ch-3 [12 3-tr group, 4 ch-3 sps] Fasten off.

Join same colour used in Round 1 in bl of any st.

Round 4 (Working in bl throughout) Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), *dc in each st to ch-3 sp, dc in next ch, (dc, ch1, dc) in next ch, dc in next ch; rep from * around, ss to beg dc.

[52 dc, 4 ch-1 sps] Fasten off.

Join Cream in any ch-3 sp from Round 3. Work the next round over in the sps from Round 3, working over the sts from Round 4.

Round 5 Ch3, (2tr, ch3, 3tr) in same sp, *3tr in each sp between 3-tr groups to ch-3 sp, (3tr,

The contrasting double crochet seams, which join the squares, are a standout design feature

After joining the squares into a rectangle, work a colourful border all around the blanket

ch3, 3tr) in ch-3 sp; rep from * twice more, 3tr in each sp between 3-tr groups across to end, ss to top of beg ch-3 [16 3-tr groups, 4 ch-3 sps] Round 6 Ss to next ch-3 sp and rep Round 5.

[20 3-tr groups, 4 ch-3 sps] Round 7 Ch2 (counts as htr), *htr into each st to ch-3 sp, (2htr, ch1, 2htr) in ch-3 sp; rep from * around, ss to top of beg ch-2. [76 htr, 4 ch-1 sps] Fasten off and weave in ends.

Block each Square.

TO MAKE UP Using the image as a guide, dc seam the Squares together using Turquoise.

BORDER With RS facing, join Turquoise in any corner.

Round 1 (RS) Ch1, *(2dc, ch1, 2dc) in corner, dc in each st and join across to next corner; rep from * around, ss to beg dc.

Fasten off.

Join Raspberry in any st.

Round 2 Ch2 (counts as htr), *htr in each st to corner, (htr, ch1, htr) in ch-1 sp; rep from * around, ss to top of beg ch-2.

Fasten off.

Join Pale Rose in any st.

Round 3 Ch1, *dc in each st to corner, (dc, ch1, dc) in ch-1 sp; rep from * around, ss to beg dc.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYCROCHET 49

SUN KEY RING

EASY PEASY DK WEIGHT

2.5MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED Sirdar Happy Cotton (100% cotton, 20g/43m) 1 ball of each: Lemonade (770) Juicy (792) Q Brown stranded cotton Q A 2.5mm (US B/1 or C/2) hook Q Toy stuffing Q Split ring For yarn stockists contact Sirdar 01924 231682 www.sirdar.com Q

TENSION Tension is not critical for this project

MEASUREMENTS Sun measures approx 8cm (3 in) in diameter

Shine bright

ABBREVIATIONS surface crochet Position yarn on WS, insert hook through from RS, yrh and pull up loop, *insert hook through to WS in direction surface crochet should travel, yrh and pull up a loop, pull through loop on hook; rep from * as required For a full list, see page 94

No matter the weather, every day will be a sunny day with Paula Green’s smiley key ring in your pocket This little burst of sunshine is a great gift for recipients of all ages – but don’t hesitate to hook up this sweet sun for yourself!

NOTES Parts of the pattern are worked in a continuous spiral without closing off each round with a slip stitch. You may find it helpful to mark the first stitch of the round, moving the marker up as you go.

SUN FRONT AND BACK (MAKE 2) Using Lemonade, make a magic loop.

Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), 6dc in loop. [6 sts] Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 sts] Round 3 (1dc, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [18 sts] Round 4 (2dc, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [24 sts] Round 5 (3dc, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [30 sts] Round 6 (4dc, 2dc in next st) 6 times, ss in beg dc. [36 sts] Fasten off and weave in ends.

TO MAKE UP Place Front and Back together with RS facing out. Work the next round through both pieces to join.

Join Lemonade through any st.

Round 1 (RS) Ch1, dc in each st around, stuffing lightly as you go, ss to beg dc. [36 sts] Row 2 (RS) Ch1, dc in first st, dc in next 3 sts, turn. [4 sts] Row 3 (WS) Ch1, skip first st, dc in each st across, turn. [3 sts] Rows 4-5 As Row 2. [1 st at end of Row 5] Row 6 Ch1, ss down left side of point, dc in next 4 sts from Round 1, turn.

Repeat Rows 3-6 another 7 times, then repeat Rows 3-5.

Next row Ch1, ss down edge of point, ss to beg dc from Row 2.

Fasten off.

Using orange, surface crochet around the sts from Round 2 and around points of Sun. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Using brown, embroider the eyes and mouth.

Decorate the sun with surface crochet around the edges and embroidered facial features WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYCROCHET 51

GOOD READ

Photographed by Jason Jenkins

Rachel created her Donut Buddies to be engaging sensory toys

TOY story Rachel Zain of Oodles of Crochet shares the story behind her love of amigurumi playthings, which has led her to create her very own range of child-friendly ‘buddies’ rochet’s not just for grown-ups!

That’s certainly the message behind Rachel Zain’s engaging range of amigurumi characters, from her plush Buddies collection to her popular Donut Buddy designs. There’s nothing more satisfying to Rachel than seeing her kids play with her creations, which are designed with children in mind. This goes double for her Donut Buddies, which are the creative result of her mission to capture the imagination of her son, who is non-verbal and autistic.

“I’ve always loved amigurumi, ever since my grandmother used to make them for me as a child,” she explains. “When I then had my own children, I wanted to carry on that tradition and I loved seeing them play with my creations. There is something about handmade toys that I find just magical.”

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SENSORY PLAY With this in mind, Rachel had researched toys for her non-verbal autistic son and, having found that many of the most suitable toys were sensory, she designed crocheted animal donuts – Donut Buddies – for him to play with. Children with autism often enjoy sensory toys, or toys that stimulate the senses through a variety of textures, interesting lighting displays, certain attractive sounds and other elements.

“It started off with me designing two or three characters, but I was so excited to see him play with them that I now have over 60 Donut Buddies in the collection with many more to come!” Rachel says. “When designing the Donut Buddies for my son, I knew I wanted something to keep him occupied but also to stimulate his brain, so I used crinkle paper in certain parts of the

toys, and added bells and squeakers to bring a fun element to them. The donut shape is great for small hands as they are easy to grip onto, and babies love the circular shape, I find. I also layer the ‘icing’ on top of the donut to give it a textured feel.

My son loves the bright-coloured Donut Buddies the most. He enjoys anything colourful and inviting.”

The Donut Buddies were not just a hit with Rachel’s family – so many others have now made them for their families and friends. “My Donut Buddies have been so popular! I believe it’s because of their fun character designs, and they are easy to grip hold of and stack,” says Rachel. They were such a resounding success that Rachel has collaborated with David & Charles to publish a book, Crochet Donut Buddies. “We worked really hard for over a year creating

Photographed by Jason Jenkins

Photographed by Jason Jenkins

GOOD READ

a book of Donut Buddies [patterns] so everyone can enjoy them,” she says. “We have all put so much effort into the book to make it as fun and enjoyable as possible.

There are 40 older designs and 10 brandnew ones in the book.”

With so many Donut Buddies to choose from, you’d think it might be difficult for Rachel to decide on a favourite, but she definitely has a clear winner. “My absolute favourite Donut Buddy has to be the Sunflower, as sunflowers are my favourite flower. I added a little bee detail that my son really enjoys, too.”

Each Donut Buddy usually takes around three to four hours to make, “so they’re pretty quick projects,” she explains. Rachel is also keen to stress that you don’t need to be a crochet expert to create one. “I always tell people to try amigurumi as it’s easier than it looks. If you know your basic stitches and can read a pattern, you’re good to go. ” To create a new Donut Buddy, Rachel’s design process is simple. “I always write a list of new characters I would like to make and work from the list, choosing the one I want to make at that time. I sketch out what type of design I have in mind and create a Donut Buddy that resembles my drawings.”

QUIET TIME With so many new Donut Buddy patterns to her name, you’d be forgiven for thinking Rachel has a lot of time for crafting, but nothing could be further from the truth. “I’m a mum to two boys, one with autism, so

crocheting has to fit into my way of life. I try to crochet of an evening mainly, as it’s when I get a little peace and quiet.

“My children love to see me make new toys, though, and my eldest always asks to see my progress. My typical designing day would be to plan what I have in mind the

producing small, tight stitches. My favourite hooks are Clover Amour, as they glide through the stitches like butter and are easy on the hands.” And although her craft room is where her materials are stored, her favourite spot to crochet is actually on the sofa. “I enjoy putting on a movie or some music and working from there.”

“There is something about handmade toys that I find just magical”

COMPLETELY HOOKED “Crochet means so much to me. It makes me so happy. When I feel stressed or sad, I’ll whip out my hook and yarn and crochet to feel happy. I can knit as well as crochet, but I much prefer to crochet. My grandmother could also do both, but she preferred knitting, so I wanted to be different and crochet more. Now there’s no stopping me.”

As for the future, Rachel has plenty on her plate. “I have a lot more planned for after my much-needed break. I’ve now been trying to teach my left- handed son to crochet.

“I’d love to work more on my Plush Buddy Mini patterns, as they are so cute, and lots more Donut Buddies too!”

Written by Lucy Evans

night before, then sit of an evening and crochet up a storm.”

Rachel has a conservatory which she uses as her craft room; it’s where she stores all of her yarns, tools and materials. “I adore Scheepjes yarn, especially Stonewashed and Riverwashed yarn. They are my go-tos at the moment,” she says. “My favourite tools are the 2.5mm to 3.5mm crochet hooks. They’re great for amigurumi and for

A few of her favourite things When Rachel’s not making new Donut Buddies…

“I love to go on long walks and use the gym. Walking, to me, is everything – I walk five to six miles a day. I love nature and to be outdoors. It’s also where I find my inspiration for my crochet work.”

Visit www.oodlesofcrochet.etsy.com and @oodles_of_crochet on Instagram. Crochet Donut Buddies is published by David & Charles.

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CHILD’S PONCHO

Make waves Get kids ready for summer with a fun poncho by Jess Bennett

Light & airy design

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CHILD’S PONCHO

Playful ripples, cute pu s and dangling tassels make this poncho a party in and of itself. It’s the perfect summertime gift!

A BIT TRICKY DK WEIGHT

4MM HOOK

NOTES The Poncho is worked in rows up from the lower Back. The Front continues, working down from the Neckline Opening.

The Hood is made separately and sewn to the Neckline Opening at the end.

YOU WILL NEED Stylecraft Recreate (40% wool, 30% acrylic, 30% polyester, 100g/350m) Yarn A Smoke (1943) Yarn B Charcoal (1948) See table for measurements and yarn quantities for Yarns A and B 1 ball of each: Yarn C Dijon (1947) Yarn D Rose (1945) Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook Q Tassel maker or 12cm length of card For yarn stockists contact Stylecraft 01484 848435 www.stylecraft-yarns.co.uk Q

PONCHO COLOUR SEQUENCE Work in the foll sequence throughout Back and Front: *4 rows in Yarn A, 1 row in Yarn B, 1 row in Yarn C, 4 rows in Yarn A, 1 row in Yarn B, 1 row in Yarn D, 2 rows in Yarn A, 1 row in Yarn B, 1 row in Yarn C, 2 rows in Yarn A, 1 row in Yarn B and 1 row in Yarn D; rep from * to end.

BACK Using Yarn A ch108 (120: 132: 144).

Row 1 (RS) Tr in fourth ch from hook (skipped ch count as tr), tr in next 3 ch, ch2, (tr in next 5 ch, skip 2 ch, 5tr in next 5 ch, ch2) 8 (9: 10: 11) times, tr in final 5 ch, turn.

[9 (10: 11: 12) patt reps] Row 2 (WS) Ch3 (counts as tr throughout), skip next st, tr in next 3 sts, *(tr, ch1, puff, ch1, tr) in ch-2 sp, tr in next 4 sts, skip 2 sts, tr in next 4 sts; rep from * across to final 5 sts, tr in next 3 sts, skip 1 st, tr in final st, turn.

Row 3 Ch3, skip next st, tr in next 3 sts, *tr in next ch-1 sp, ch2, skip puff st, tr in next ch-1 sp, tr in next 4 sts, skip 2 sts, tr in next 4 sts; rep from * across to final 5 sts, tr in next 3 sts, skip 1 st, tr in final st, turn.

Row 4 Ch4 (counts as tr, ch1 throughout), skip 2 sts, tr in next st, ch1, skip 1 st, *(tr, ch1, puff, ch1, tr) in ch-2 sp, (ch1, skip 1 st, tr in next st) twice, skip 2 sts, (tr in next st, ch1, skip 1 st) twice; rep from * across to final 5 sts, ch1, skip 1 st, tr in next st, ch1, skip 2 sts, tr in final st, turn.

Row 5 As Row 3.

Rows 2-5 set the pattern. Rep Rows 2-5 until 37 (42: 42: 52) rows have been worked.

TENSION 3 pattern repeats and 16 rows measure 20x20cm (7 x7 in) using a 4mm hook, or size needed to obtain correct tension

ABBREVIATIONS puff (Yrh, insert hook in st/sp indicated, yrh and pull up a loop to height of row) 4 times, yrh and pull through all 9 loops on hook, c h1 to close For a full list, see page 94

SIZE TO FIT CHEST b WIDTH

LENGTH AT BACK

cm in cm

Start from the bottom of the back piece, work up to the neckline, then work down the front

NECKLINE OPENING Next row Work next row in patt for the first 35 (41: 47: 50) sts, ch38 (38: 38: 44), cont in patt for final 35 (41: 47: 50) sts, turn.

FRONT Cont in colour sequence and patt set, working over the stitches and chs from prev row.

Work a total of 32 (36: 38: 47) rows for the Front.

Fasten off.

HOOD Using Yarn B, ch108 (108: 108: 120).

Row 1 (RS) Tr in fourth ch from hook (skipped ch count as tr), tr in next 3 ch, ch2, (tr in next 5 ch, skip 2 ch, 5tr in next 5 ch, ch2) 8 (9: 10: 11) times, tr in final 5 ch, turn.

3-5

6-8

9-11

12-14

54-60

63-67

69-74

76-80

21 -23

24 -26

60

27 -29

30-31

66

72.5

79

28

31

in

23

26

cm

47.5

54

54

66.5

in

18

21

21

26

a

YARN A

100g

2

3

3

3

Width a: 60 (66: 72.5: 79: 86: 92.5: 99)cm, 23 (26: 28 : 31: 33 : 36 : 39)in Length b: 47.5 (54: 54: 66.5: 66.5: 69: 69)cm, 18 (21 : 21 : 26 : 26 : 27 : 27 )

YARN B

100g

1

1

2

2

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To make this pattern easier to follow, we’ve colour-coded the sizing instructions – simply follow the relevant column.

CHILD’S PONCHO

Make the hood separately, then whipstitch it in place around the neckline

Trim with colourful tassels stitched evenly along the bottom edge of the poncho

[9 (9: 9: 10) patt reps] Change to Yarn C. Rows 2-9 Rep Rows 2-5 of Back twice, changing colour at the end of each Row in the foll sequence: Yarn B, Yarn D, Yarn B, Yarn C, Yarn B, Yarn D, and Yarn A. Cont repeating Rows 2-5 using Yarn A throughout until a total of 18 (19: 19: 22) rows have been worked.

Fasten off.

Fold in half and sew the final row together to form the hood shape.

aligned with the centre of the Back, and the final row-ends are lined up along the Front.

Once happy with the position, whipstitch in place.

TASSELS Make 4 (5: 5: 6:) Tassels in Yarn C and in Yarn D. Wrap Yarn B around each Tassel, 1cm from the top. Sew the Tassels evenly across the bottom of the Front and Back. Trim to desired length.

The wavy stitch pattern is worked as a repeat of four rows of treble and puff stitches

For

TO MAKE UP Using the same colour used for the Neckline Opening rows, ss around the Neckline Opening. [76 (76: 76: 88) ss] Pin the Hood in place around the Neckline Opening, so the centre back of the Hood is

at www.woolwarehouse.co.uk use the code SC123 at the checkout Cannot be applied to certain products such as yarn packs , sale items, gift vouchers and all Scheepjes and Lopi products.

SIMPLE STEPS HOW TO WORK A PUFF STITCH

1 *Wrap yarn round hook (yrh), insert hook into stitch indicated, yrh and pull through a loop of yarn. Bring the loop up to the same height as a treble stitch.

2 Repeat from * in Step 1 twice more (or as instructed in the pattern). You will now have 7 loops on the hook. Work yrh and carefully pull this through all the loops on the hook.

3 You will have formed a puff stitch with 3 repeats. Vary the number of repeats from * to create a puff stitch with 4 or 5 repeats – the more repeats you work, the larger the puff stitch will look.

4 To secure and complete the puff stitch, chain 1 (yrh and pull through 1 loop). On the next row, the pattern may or may not ask you to work into this chain and/or the top loop of the puff st.

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W E N

Bring on the crochet cuteness!

Bursting with super-cute creatures & accessories, don’t miss this essential collection for amigurumi lovers

J us t

£9.99

*

WHAT’S INSIDE STUNNING INSPIRATION FROM TOP DESIGNERS TOYS, GIFTS & MORE FOR ALL LEVELS OF CROCHETER EASY-TO-FOLLOW PATTERNS AND STEP-BY-STEP PHOTOS

H o o k an axolotl!

ORDER YOUR COPY TODAY! ORDER ONLINE www.buysubscriptions.com/amigurumi2022 OR CALL 03330 162 138† AND QUOTE ‘Amigurumi 2022 Print 1’ † UK calls will cost the same as other standard fixed line numbers (starting 01 or 02) and are included as part of any inclusive or free minutes allowances (if o ered by your phone tari ).

Outside of free call packages call charges from mobile phones will cost between 3p and 55p per minute. Lines are open Mon to Fri 9am-5pm. Overseas please call +44 (0)1604 973 746. *Price above applies to UK orders only. EUR price £11.99, ROW price £12.99. Please allow up to 28 days for delivery.

Win a digital copy of the n xt Simply ochet ue!

Ent by voting f yo favo ite on I tagram #hooktohook @simply ochetmag w

HOOK TO HOOK

Spring bags

We challenged two designers to come up with a fab design, each using the same yarn… which is your fave?

Lara Butler “My New Year’s resolution was to publish a design in a magazine, so I’ve already achieved my goal thanks to Simply Crochet’s amazing Hook to Hook challenge.

I wanted to create a spring design that was light and fresh, and the wide range of rainbow colours provided were absolutely perfect for this May Flower bag.

The Sirdar Happy range is fantastic to work with and the colours really pop. I can’t wait to see the readers’ nished makes. Enjoy!” Find Lara on Instagram at @hookedonewe_x

Rilla Edwards “When I was given the opportunity to participate in the Hook to Hook challenge, I was over the moon. I wanted to design something simple, fun and colourful that used basic, beginner-friendly stitches. My bag is perfect for taking on a road trip, going to the market or toting your crochet supplies when you head outside. It was actually inspired by the bird feeder outside my sunroom window. I often listen to the birds chirping, and it makes me smile.” Find Rilla on Instagram at @Rilla2u WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYCROCHET 59

HOOK TO HOOK

Left to right: The basic pattern for Lara’s bag is a plain fabric worked in half treble stitches; sew the flower motifs tightly together like a jigsaw puzzle in a three-row construction; the floral panel forms the flap of the bag, and is attached to the top of the back panel of the bag

May FLOWER BAG Bring a bouquet with you wherever you go with this fab floral handbag by Lara Butler Q Sirdar Cotton DK (100% cotton, 100g/212m), 1 ball of Med Blue (540) Q Sirdar Happy Cotton (100% cotton, 20g/43m), 1 ball of each: Freckle (753), Wigwam (752), Tea Time (751), Currant Bun (756), Dolly (761), Jammy (755), Squeaky (783) Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook Q Stitch markers For yarn stockists contact Sirdar 01924 231682 www.sirdar.com

TENSION Tension is not critical for this project, but it may affect the yarn quantities required

Join any colour except Med Blue in any st.

Round 2 (WS) *Ch3, puff st in st at base of ch-3, ch2, ss in next 2 sts from Round 1; rep from * 5 times more.

Fasten off.

Using the image as a guide, sew the Flowers in 2 rows of 6 and 1 row of 7, leaving 1 Flower.

Sew the rows together so the row of 7 Flowers is sandwiched between the rows of 6 Flowers.

Sew the final Flower to the bottom-centre of the Flowers.

FRONT PANEL Using a 4mm hook and Med Blue, ch31.

Row 1 (RS) Htr in second ch from hook and each ch across, turn. [30 sts] Rows 2-18 Ch1, htr in each st across, turn.

Row 19 Ch1, htr in each st across, do not turn.

Work a round of dc around front, working 1dc in each row-end and 3dc in each corner.

Fasten off.

MEASUREMENTS

FLOWER BAG

BACK PANEL Using a 4mm hook and Med Blue, ch31.

Row 1 (RS) Htr in second ch from hook and each ch across, turn. [30 sts] Rows 2-20 Ch1, htr in each st across, turn.

Row 21 Ch1, htr in each st across, do not turn.

Work a round of dc around front, working 1dc in each row-end and 3dc in each corner.

Fasten off.

FLOWERS MAKE 20 Using a 3.5mm hook and Dolly, ch4 and ss in last ch from hook to form a loop.

Round 1 (WS) Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), 12dc in loop, ss to beg dc. [12 sts] Fasten off.

TO JOIN Place Front and Back together, with RS facing out.

Using a 4mm hook, join yarn in top-left corner of Front and working through Back Panel at the

Bag measures approximately 22x18cm (8 x7in)

ABBREVIATIONS puff st (Yrh, insert hook in st indicated, yrh and pull loop up to height of current round) 3 times, yrh and pull through all loops on hook For a full list, see page 94

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same time to join.

Row 1 (RS) Ch1, 19dc to corner, 32dc across base, 19dc up to corner of Front.

Do not fasten off.

STRAP You can adapt the length of the Strap by working a longer or shorter ch.

Cont with Med Blue, ch151.

Row 1 Dc in second ch from hook and each ch across, turn. [150 sts] Row 2 Ch1, dc in each st across, ss in first dc of join.

Fasten off.

TO FINISH Sew the Flowers to the top of the Back Panel.

Weave in all ends.

Birdhouse BAG You’ll fit everything you need into this long spring-themed tote by Rilla Edwards Q Sirdar Cotton DK (100% cotton, 100g/212m), 3 balls of Med Blue (540) Q Sirdar Happy Cotton (100% cotton, 20g/43m), 1 ball of each: Freckle (753), Wigwam (752), Tea Time (751), Currant Bun (756), Dolly (761), Jammy (755), Squeaky (783) Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook Q A 2mm (US B/1) hook For yarn stockists see May Flower Bag

TENSION Tension is not critical for this project, but it may affect the yarn quantities required

HOOK TO HOOK

Left to right: Rilla’s bag cleverly combines colourwork with a corner-to-corner stitch pattern for a richly textured look – the cute appliqués add colourful layers to the 3D nature of the design; the bag is constructed of three pieces: front, back and handles, which are sewn together

MEASUREMENTS Bag measures approximately 25x34cm (9 x13 in)

NOTES The main body of the Bag is made in 3 separate pieces, which are sewn together at the end.

Each piece is worked in a corner-to-corner (c2c) construction, working blocks diagonally across each row. Each ‘block’ is made up of a ch3 and 3tr. Each ‘row’ is worked diagonally, starting with 1 block in the bottom right corner, increasing to 2 blocks in the next row, 3 blocks in the next row, and so on. Once you have reached the required width each piece is worked in straight rows to the correct height.

Each piece is then finished by decreasing 1 c2c block each row to the end.

There is a Chart on page 96, which you will need to refer to for the Front. Each square represents 1c2c block. Read all RS rows diagonally from right to left and all WS rows diagonally from left to right.

Weave off small balls of each colour to use for the Front.

For the main body of the Bag, use 2 strands of yarn held together as one.

BIRDHOUSE BAG FRONT

INCREASING ROWS Using a 4mm hook and 2 strands of Med Blue, ch6.

Row 1 (RS) Tr in fourth ch from hook and next 2 ch, turn. [1 c2c block] Row 2 (WS) Ch6, tr in fourth ch from hook and next 2 ch, ss in ch-3 sp on next block across,

ch3, 3tr in same sp, turn. [2 c2c blocks] Row 3 Ch6, tr in fourth ch from hook and next 2 ch, *ss in ch-3 sp on next block across, ch3, 3tr in same sp; rep from * across to end, turn.

[3 c2c blocks] Row 4 As Row 3. [4 c2c blocks] Refer to the Chart for all colour changes. The first 2 rows of colourwork have been written out to guide you.

Row 5 Ch6, tr in fourth ch from hook and next 2 ch, *ss in ch-3 sp on next block across, ch3, 3tr in same sp**, change to Squeaky, rep from * to ** once more, change to Med Blue, rep from * to ** twice more, turn. [5 c2c blocks] Row 6 Ch6, tr in fourth ch from hook and next 2 ch, *ss in ch-3 sp on next block across, ch3, 3tr in same sp**, change to Dolly, rep from * to ** once more, change to Med Blue, rep from * to ** 3 times more, turn. [6 c2c blocks] Rows 7-15 As Row 2, using the Chart for all colour changes. [15 c2c blocks]

STRAIGHT ROWS Row 16 Ss in first 3 sts, ss in ch-3 sp, ch3, 3tr in same sp, *ss in next ch-3 sp, ch3, 3tr in same sp; rep across to end, turn. [15 c2c blocks] Row 17 Ch6, tr in fourth ch from hook and next 2 ch, ss in ch-3 sp on next block across, *ch3, 3tr in same sp, ss in next ch-3 sp across; rep across to final ch-3 sp, ss in ch-3 sp, turn.

[15 c2c blocks] Rows 18-20 Rep Rows 16-17, then rep Row 17 once more.

DECREASING ROWS Row 21 Ss in first 3 sts, ss in ch-3 sp, *ch3, 3tr in same sp, ss in next ch-3 sp; rep from * across to

end, turn. [14 c2c blocks] Rows 22-34 As Row 21.

[1 c2c block at end of Row 34] Fasten off and weave in ends.

BACK Using a 4mm hook and 2 strands of Med Blue, ch6.

Work as Front, using Med Blue throughout.

BASE Using a 4mm hook and 2 strands of Med Blue, ch6.

Row 1 (RS) Tr in fourth ch from hook and next 2 ch, turn. [1 c2c block] Row 2 (WS) Ch6, tr in fourth ch from hook and next 2 ch, ss in ch-3 sp on next block across, ch3, 3tr in same sp, turn. [2 c2c blocks] Row 3 Ss in next 3 sts, ss in first ch-3 sp, ch3, 3tr in same sp, ss in next ch-3 sp, ch3, 3tr in same sp, turn.

Row 4 Ch6, tr in fourth ch from hook and next 2 ch, ss in next ch-3 sp, ch3, 3tr in same sp, ss in final ch-3 sp, turn.

Rows 5-13 Rep Rows 3-4, ending on a Row 3 rep.

Row 14 Ss in next 3 sts, ss in first ch-3 sp, ch3, 3tr in same sp, ss in next ch-3 sp.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

HANDLES (MAKE 2) Using a 4mm hook and 2 strands of Med Blue, join yarn in top-right corner of Front.

Row 1 Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), dc in each st and 2dc in each ch-sp across, turn.

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HOOK TO HOOK

Left to right: follow the chart to ensure the blocks appear in the right places to form the picture; the petals of the pink flower are worked in double treble stitches; for the star-like flowers, the petals are worked on chains radiating from the centre, then finished with embroidery

in final 8 sts, turn. [16 sts, 1 ch-22 sp] Row 3 Ch1, dc in each st and ch across, turn.

[38 sts] Row 4 Ch1, dc in each st across.

Fasten off.

Rep Rows 1-4 on Back.

APPLIQUÉS Use a single strand of yarn for each Appliqué.

Refer to the image when sewing the Appliqués to the Front of the Bag.

*Ch3, ss in second ch from hook, ss in next ch, ss in ss at base of ch-3; rep from * twice more.

Fasten off.

FEET Using a 2mm hook and Currant Bun, join yarn in base of second st from Row 1. *Ch4, 2dc in third ch from hook, ss in next ch**, ss in st at base of ch-4, ss in next st; rep from * to ** once more.

Fasten off.

BLUE FLOWER Using Tea Time, ch5 and ss in last ch from hook.

Round 1 (RS) *Ch6, ss in second ch from hook and each ch across, ss in loop; rep from * 4 times more.

Fasten off.

Using Jammy, embroider the centre of the Flower.

Sew to the Front of the Bag. PINK FLOWER

PETAL (MAKE 4) BIRD Using a 2mm hook and Freckle, ch6.

Row 1 (RS) Dc in second ch from hook and each ch across, turn. [5 sts] Row 2 (WS) Ch1, 2dc in first st, dc in each st to final st, 2dc in final st, turn. [7 sts] Row 3 As Row 2. [9 sts] Rows 4-6 Ch1, dc in each st across, turn.

Row 7 Ss in first 4 sts, dc in next 5 sts, turn.

Row 8 Ch1, dc in first 4 sts, turn leaving rem st unworked. [4 sts] Row 9 Ch1, dc in each st across, turn.

Row 10 Ss in first st, dc in next 2 sts, leave last st unworked.

Fasten off.

BEAK With RS facing and using a 2mm hook, join Dolly in the side of Row 8 with a ss, dc in same row-end.

Fasten off.

TAIL FEATHER Using a 2mm hook and Currant Bun, join yarn in first ss from Row 7.

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TO FINISH BIRD Using Tea Time, embroider an eye on to the Bird.

Sew the Bird to the Front of the Bag. BIRDHOUSE TOP Using a 4mm hook and Currant Bun, make a magic loop.

Round 1 (RS) Ch3 (counts as tr), 2tr in loop, (dc in loop, 3tr in loop) twice, dc in loop, ss to top of beg ch-3. [12 sts] Fasten off.

Sew to the Front of the Bag. WHITE FLOWER Using a 2mm hook and Dolly, ch6 and ss in last ch from hook.

Round 1 (RS) *Ch7, ss in second ch from hook and each ch across, ss in loop; rep from * 5 times more.

Fasten off.

Using Tea Time, embroider the centre of the Flower.

Sew to the Front of the Bag.

Using a 2mm hook and Jammy, ch6.

Row 1 (RS) Dc in second ch from hook and each ch across, turn. [5 sts] Rows 2-3 Ch1, dc in each st across, turn.

Row 4 Ch1, dc2tog first 2 sts, dtr in next st, tr in next st, dtr in final st, turn.

Row 5 Ch1, (dc2tog) twice.

Fasten off.

Using the tails, sew the Petals together to form the flower shape.

Using Dolly, embroider the centre of the Flower.

Sew Flower to Front of Bag. TO MAKE UP With WS facing, pin the Front, Back and Base together. The Front and Back should be joined across the 13 blocks of the Base, with 1 block being joined to the short sides of the Base at either side. Use Med Blue to whipstitch the pieces together.

TEALIGHT COVERS

Glow up Gently light up your lilife ife with delica delicate tealight teali ight covers co

by Emma ma Leith

For indoors & outdoors

WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYCROCHET 63

TEALIGHT COVERS

Make a few to add some ambiance to wedding breakfast centrepieces, outdoor dinner parties or cosy indoor get-togethers.

A BIT TRICKY 4PLY WEIGHT

3MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED Q Gorgeous Yarns 100% Organic

4ply (100% organic cotton, 100g/400m) 1 skein of Cochineal Q A 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook For yarn stockists contact www.gorgeousyarns.co.uk

TENSION 5 pattern repeats and 7 rows measure 10x10cm (4x4in) using a 3mm hook or size needed to obtain correct tension

MEASUREMENTS To fit tealight holder measuring 22cm (8 in) in diameter

ABBREVIATIONS beg split dtr-cl Ch3, *yrh twice, insert hook in st indicated, yrh and pull up a loop, (yrh and pull through 2 loops) twice**, skip 2 sts or ch-3 sp, rep from * to ** twice more in next st, yrh and pull through all loops on hook split dtr-cl *Yrh twice, insert hook in st indicated, yrh and pull up a loop, (yrh and pull through 2 loops) twice**; rep from * once more, skip 2 sts or ch-3 sp and rep from * to ** twice in next st, yrh and pull through all loops on hook For a full list, see page 94

SAVE OR SPLURGE For a more budget-friendly make, try Paintbox Cotton 4ply (100% cotton, 50g/170m), 1 ball of Ballet Pink (06) Check hook size, tension and ball length if you use a different yarn For yarn stockists contact www.stylecraft-yarns.co.uk

64 WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYCROCHET

NOTES Tealight Covers are worked in rounds with RS facing throughout. You can adapt the size by working a longer or shorter foundation ch, working a ch that’s a multiple of 3.

The yarn in this project is dyed in small batches, and the colours available may vary.

You can substitute any 4ply cotton yarn into this project.

TEALIGHT COVERS Ch33, ss in last ch from hook being careful not to twist the ch.

Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), dc in each ch around, ss to beg dc.

[33 sts] Round 2 (RS) Beg split dtr-cl beg in last st of prev round, *ch3, split dtr-cl working first leg in same st as final leg of last cl; rep from * around, ss to top of beg cl. [11 cl, 11 ch-3 sps] Rounds 3-4 As Round 2.

Round 5 Ch1, (dc in next st, 2dc in next ch-3 sp) rep around, ss to beg dc. [33 sts] Round 6 Ch1, dc in each st around, ss to beg dc.

Fasten off leaving a 50cm tail.

UPPER EDGING Work the next round over the 50cm tail.

Join yarn in any st around with a ss.

Round 7 (RS) (Ss in next st, 5tr in next st, ss in next st) 11 times, ss in beg ss. [11 5-tr groups] Fasten off.

Place over your tealight holder. Pull the 50cm tail tight to secure at the top and weave in all ends.

The pattern is adaptable for any size of jar, starting with a chain in multiples of three

For the pinched-in edging, work the final round over a long tail, then pull the tail tight

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GOOD READ

THE SCIENCE

of crochet

If you understand crochet, you’re actually well on your way to understanding various scienti c and mathmatical concepts – they’re more similar than you might think!

GOOD READ

Daina is known for her pioneering use of crochet models to illustrate and teach geometric concepts

ome see artistic and STEM subjects as opposite ends of the school-subject spectrum, but when it comes to crochet, this couldn’t be further from the truth. Crochet is being increasingly used to explain and teach about various STEM (that’s Science, Technology, Engineering and Maths) fields. In fact, recent research suggests that a sensory learning experience, such as illustrating a concept through crochet, can greatly increase understanding. We speak to three STEM professionals, each with a different area of expertise, to discover how they use our beloved craft to teach others.

S

exponential growth, which is crucial in creating hyperbolic surface, or a surface which is so crenulated (irregular or wavy) that it cannot be flattened on a table.”

Daina continued on to write a book on the topic, Crocheting Adventures with Hyperbolic Planes. “This book actually was written to give answers to questions people usually asked me after my talks, confiding that that they were scared of maths in school, but after seeing these crocheted soft models, maths seemed so much more understandable. My aim in using crochet in creating models was exactly [this] – to help to visualise.”

Find more at hyperbolic-crochet.blogspot.com

DAINA TAIMI A, RETIRED MATHEMATICIAN As a maths educator, Daina has used fibre arts and the mathematical themes underlying them as a teaching device throughout her career. “Both knitting and crocheting are about creating patterns and my field – mathematics – is a study of patterns,” says Daina. In fact, she’s known for pioneering the use of crochet models to explain the geometry of a hyperbolic plane, or a surface that curves away from itself at every point.

“I crocheted the first hyperbolic plane in 1997,” says Daina. “I just realised that crochet is a very good medium for visualising

MERCEDES BERNARD, SOFTWARE ENGINEER A keen crocheter, Mercedes learned the craft at around age eight. After studying computer science in college, she saw a lot of parallels between crochet and coding and was ultimately inspired to explore the topic more.

“We often forget that the very first people who wrote computer code were women (on the ENIAC during WWII). And the technology industry continues to struggle with sexism,” says Mercedes. “Crafts and handiwork – crochet included – are usually thought of as women’s hobbies. It feels important to me to use my love of crochet to connect coding

with its feminist history.”

As we know, a crochet pattern is written so that the crocheter knows which stitches to make, how many to make and where to make them. A computer program is a series of lines of code compiled to tell a machine what to do, how many times, and when. “In both cases, it’s a set of instructions to be executed in a particular order,” says Mercedes.

“A crochet pattern is essentially a program; a program is a pattern. When you’re crocheting, it’s like you are creating a physical, real-world instance of the designer’s algorithm.”

Likewise, a crochet stitch abbreviation can be compared to a code method. “Both are a small set of instructions that we give a name so we can invoke it repeatedly from various places within the larger program or pattern – for example, a back post double [stitch]. Then, when you’re crocheting, you often encounter stitch repeats to indicate a set of stitches should be repeated X number of times,” explains Mercedes. “In programming, we call this a loop, which we use when we want to run the same piece of code multiple times.”

In Mercedes’ eyes, crafting and coding have always been connected. “The Jacquard Loom and its punch cards are essential to computing history. It is often considered the WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYCROCHET 67

GOOD READ

Clockwise from top left: Alex says corner-to-corner crochet reminds him of how computers store images using grids of coloured squares; Katherine used crochet to illustrate the Covid-19 R number; Katherine even crocheted a little coronavirus

first computer because it was the first instance of using binary code to instruct a machine to perform automated tasks (in this case, weaving),” she says. “Realising that, we find connections between other crafts and how programming has evolved. Binary code (0s and 1s) is not very human-friendly, so we’ve found other ways to instruct computers. Crochet patterns are all about communicating complex instructions as simply as possible. Crochet patterns and computer code share the same goals.”

Find out more at www.mercedesbernard.com ALEX HADWEN BENNETT, ACADEMIC Alex always enjoyed being creative and started crocheting around five years ago, when he began his PhD, as a way to relax.

Alex’s research currently focuses on looking at how providing different ways to engage with computing concepts can make the subject more inclusive. “Crochet provides an excellent medium for engaging with many computing concepts,” says Alex. “It employs multiple STEM principles and can provide an alternative way of engaging with them.” Like Mercedes, Alex says that crochet patterns employ several principles that are also used in 68 WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYCROCHET

coding. “Like a computer program, crochet patterns use standard notation to describe the precise steps that need to be followed,” he says. “Additionally, when steps need to be repeated, the number of repetitions is given rather than writing out the steps multiple times needlessly. An example is corner-tocorner crochet, which shares similarities with the way that computers store images using grids of coloured squares.”

Find out more at www.physicalcomputing.co.uk KATHRINE FREY FRØSLIE, ASSOCIATE PROFESSOR IN BIOSTATISTICS AT THE NORWEGIAN UNIVERSITY OF LIFE SCIENCES Kathrine grew up on a small farm on the island of Frei on the west coast of Norway and went on to a career in maths, statistics and biostatistics. “I had been teaching since uni, and had little time for handcrafting for two decades, so I decided to start a popular science knitting (and crochet) blog called Statistrikk in 2016.”

Katherine always strives to develop self-explaining examples and good visualisations so that complex facts, thoughts or concepts become easy to understand. For

instance, Kathrine used crochet to explain statistics during the pandemic, when she employed it to illustrate how the R number worked. “For epidemiologists, biologists and mathematicians, ‘reproduction numbers’ are elementary knowledge that can be communicated by numbers, formulas and graphs,” she says. “The general public, in contrast, needed alternative visualisations and explanations to understand the R number. I used crocheted patches to show how the number of infected people develop [grow, shrink or stay the same] over nine generations of infection, for different values of the R number. I made a video of it which went viral in Norway.

“The art of crochet and the art of biostatistics do not relate to each other any more than war relates to photography,” says Kathrine. “But as we know, photos can be forceful communication tools in a conflict.

Similarly, I have found colourful, playful, soft and tactile crocheted and knitted designs to be forceful tools in the communication of science – statistics in particular. I call it ‘hard facts in soft materials’.”

Find out more at www.statistrikk.no Written by Colette Earley

LACE SHAWL

Forest fair Go for a wander in this ethereal moss-coloured shawl from DROPS

Challenge yourself!

WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYCROCHET 69

LACE SHAWL

Create something beautiful to treasure forever with a shawl that looks like it came straight out of a romantic fairy tale.

GO PRO 4PLY WEIGHT

3.5MM HOOK

NOTES Shawl is worked in row throughout.

YOU WILL NEED

SHAWL

DROPS Alpaca (100% alpaca, 50g/167m) 5 balls of Olive Mix (7233) Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook For yarn stockists contact Wool Warehouse 01926 882818 www.woolwarehouse.co.uk

Ch5 and ss in last ch from hook to form a loop.

Row 1 (RS) Ch7 (counts as dtr, ch3 throughout), (dc in loop, ch6) twice, dc in loop, ch3, dtr in loop, turn. [5 sts, 2 ch-6 sps, 2 ch-3 sps] Row 2 (WS) Ch7, dc in first ch-3 sp, (ch6, dc in next ch-sp) 3 times, ch3, dtr in fourth ch of beg ch-7 of row below, turn.

[6 sts, 3 ch-6 sps, 2 ch-3 sps] Row 3 Ch7, dc in first ch-3 sp, *ch6, (dc, ch6, dc, ch6) in next ch-sp, dc in next ch-sp; rep from * once more, ch3, dtr in fourth ch of beg ch-7 of row below, turn. [9 sts, 6 ch-6 sps, 2 ch-3 sps] Row 4 Ch7, dc in first ch-3 sp, (ch6, dc in next ch-sp) 7 times, ch3, dtr in fourth ch of beg ch-7 of row below, turn.

[10 sts, 7 ch-6 sps, 2 ch-3 sps] Row 5 Ch7, dc in first ch-3 sp, ch6, dc in next ch-sp, ch6 (dc, ch6, dc) in next ch-sp, pm in last ch-6 sp, (ch6, dc in next ch-sp) 3 times, ch6, (dc, ch6, dc) in next ch-sp, pm in last ch-6 sp, (ch6, dc in next ch-sp) twice, ch3, dtr in fourth ch of beg ch-7 of row below, turn.

[13 sts, 10 ch-6 sps, 2 ch-3 sps] Row 6 Ch7, dc in first ch-3 sp, (ch6, dc in next ch-6 sp) 3 times, move marker to last ch-6 sp, (ch6, dc in next ch-6 sp) 6 times, move marker to last ch-6 sp, (ch6, dc in next ch-sp) twice, ch3, dtr in fourth ch of beg ch-7 of row below, turn.

[14 sts, 11 ch-6 sps, 2 ch-3 sps] Row 7 Ch7, dc in first ch-3 sp, *(ch6, dc in next ch-6 sp) rep across to marked ch-sp, (dc, ch6, dc) in marked ch-sp, move marker to last ch-6 sp, ch6; rep from * once more, (ch6, dc in next ch-sp) 3 times, ch3, dtr in fourth ch of beg ch-7 of row below, turn.

[17 sts, 14 ch-6 sps, 2 ch-3 sps] Row 8 Ch7, dc in first ch-3 sp, (ch6, dc in next ch-sp) 15 times, ch3, dtr in fourth ch of beg ch-7 of row below, turn.

[18 sts, 15 ch-6 sps, 2 ch-3 sps] Row 9 Ch7, (2dtr, ch1, 2dtr) in first ch-3 sp, ch1, *(2dtr, ch1, 2dtr, ch1) in next 7 ch-sps, (2dtr, ch1, 2dtr) in next ch-sp, pm in ch-1 sp, ch1, (2dtr, ch1, 2dtr, ch1) in each ch-sp to final ch-3 sp, (2dtr, ch1, 2dtr) in ch-3 sp, ch3, dtr in fourth ch of beg ch-7 of row below, turn.

[42 dtr, 33 ch-1 sps, 2 ch-3 sps] Row 10 Ch7, dtr in ch-3 sp, ch1, *(dtr, ch3, dtr, ch1) in next ch-1 sp, skip ch-1 sp**; rep from * across to marked ch-sp, (dtr, ch3, dtr, ch3, dtr, ch1) in marked ch-sp, move marker to central dtr, skip ch-1 sp, rep from * to ** across to final ch-3 sp, dtr in ch-3 sp, ch3, dtr in fourth ch of beg ch-7 of row below, turn.

[39 dtr, 20 ch-3 sps, 18 ch-1 sps]

Q

TENSION Tension is not critical, but it may affect the yarn quantities required

MEASUREMENTS Shawl measures approx 148x59cm (58 x23 in) across widest points

ABBREVIATIONS bobble Yrh, insert hook in st/sp, yrh and pull up a loop, yrh and pull through 2 loops on hook *yrh twice insert hook in same st/sp, yrh and pull up a loop, (yrh and pull through 2 loops) twice; rep from * twice more, yrh, insert hook in same st/sp, yrh and pull up a loop, yrh and pull through 2 loops, yrh and pull through all loops on hook For a full list, see page 94

For

at www.woolwarehouse.co.uk use the code SC123 at the checkout Cannot be applied to certain products such as yarn packs , sale items, gift vouchers and all Scheepjes and Lopi products.

70 WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYCROCHET

The last few rows of the pattern create a scalloped trim around the longest edge

Row 11 Ch7, (2dtr, ch1, 2dtr) in first ch-3 sp, ch1, skip ch-1 sp, *(2dtr, ch1, 2dtr) in ch-3 sp, ch1, skip next ch-1 sp**; rep from * to ch-3 sp before marked st, (2dtr, ch1, 2dtr) in ch-3 sp, ch1, skip marked st, move marker to ch-1 sp, (2dtr, ch1, 2dtr) in next ch-3 sp, ch1, skip next ch-1 sp, rep from * to ** across to final ch-3 sp, (2dtr, ch1, 2dtr) in ch-3 sp, ch3, dtr in fourth ch of beg ch-7 of row below, turn.

[53 dtr, 2 ch-3 sps, 39 ch-1 sps] Row 12 Ch7, dtr in ch-3 sp, ch1, *(dtr, ch3, dtr, ch1) in next ch-1 sp, skip ch-1 sp**; rep from * across to ch-1 sp before marked sp, (dtr, ch3, dtr) in ch-1 sp, ch3, skip marked sp, move marker to ch-3 sp, (dtr, ch3, dtr) in next ch-1 sp, ch1, skip ch-1 sp, rep from * to ** across to final ch-3 sp, dtr in ch-3 sp, ch3, dtr in fourth ch of beg ch-7 of row below, turn.

[44 dtr, 23 ch-3 sps, 20 ch-1 sps] Row 13 Ch7, (2dtr, ch1, 2dtr) in first ch-3 sp, ch1, skip ch-1 sp, *(2dtr, ch1, 2dtr) in next ch-3 sp, ch1, skip next ch-1 sp**; rep from * across to marked ch-3 sp, (2dtr, ch1, 2dtr) in marked sp, move marker to central ch-1 sp, ch1, rep from * to ** across to final ch-3 sp, (2dtr, ch1, 2dtr) in ch-3 sp, ch3, dtr in fourth ch of beg ch-7 of row below, turn. [93 dtr, 2 ch-3 sps, 44 ch-1 sps] Rows 14-25 Rep Rows 10-13 another 3 times.

Row 26 Ch6 (counts as tr, ch3 throughout), tr in first ch-3 sp, *ch3, dc in next ch-1 sp, ch3, tr in next ch-1 sp; rep from * across to final ch-3 sp, tr in ch-3 sp, ch3, tr in final st, turn.

Evenly space 12 markers (or scrap yarn) across last row in the dc sts, placing the first marker in the second dc of row and last marker in the second dc from end.

LACE SHAWL

Move the markers up as you work.

Row 27 Ch6, (bobble, ch3) in each ch-sp across, tr in final st, turn.

Row 28 Ch1 (does not count as st), (dc, ch3) in each ch-sp across to final ch-3 sp, dc in final ch-sp, turn.

Row 29 Ch1, *3dc in each ch-sp to 2 sps before marker, 4dc in next 4 ch-sps; rep from * across to end, turn. [300 dc] Row 30 Ch3 (counts as tr), (tr in fl of next st, ch1, skip 1 st) rep across to final st, tr in fl of final st, turn.

The ch-1 sps are counts as a st when working Rows 31-34.

Row 31 Ch1, (dc in each st across to st before marker, 2dc in next st, dc in marked st, 2dc in next st) rep across to end. [324 sts] Row 32 As Row 30.

Row 33 Ch3, *tr in bl of each st to st before marker, 2tr in next st, tr in next st, 2tr in next st; rep from * across to end, turn. [348 sts] Row 34 Ch3, ch2, tr in fl of next st, *skip 2 sts, (tr, ch2, tr) in fl of next st; rep from * across to final st, tr in final st, turn. [116 (tr, ch2, tr) groups] Row 35 Ch3, *3tr in each ch-2 sp to 2 sps before marker, 4tr in next 2 sps, 3tr in marked sp, 4tr in next 2 sps; rep from * across to end. [396 sts] Row 36 Ch3, (dc in fl of next st, ch3, skip 1 st) across to final st, tr in fl of final st, turn.

Row 37 Ch3, (ch3, bobble) in each ch-sp across to final st, tr in final st, turn.

Row 38 Ch1, (dc, ch3) in each ch-sp across to final st, dc in final st, turn.

Row 39 Ch4, (ch3, htr) in each ch-sp across, dtr in final st, turn.

Row 40 Ch1, dc in first st, *(4tr, ch1, 4tr) in next ch-sp, dc in next ch-sp; rep across to final st, dc in final st, turn.

Fold the last 2 rows down towards you and work next row into the sts from Row 39.

Row 41 Ch1, *(dc in first htr, ch3) rep across to 2 ch-sps before marker, (dc in next htr, ch3) twice

around next 4 htr; rep from * across to final st, dc in final st, turn.

Row 42 Ch3, ch1, *(tr, ch1, tr, ch1) in next ch-sp, (tr, ch1) in next ch-sp; rep from * across to final st, tr in final st, turn.

Row 43 Ch4, skip first ch-sp, (dtr, ch3, dtr, ch1) in next ch-sp, skip 2 ch-sps; rep from * across to final st, dtr in final st, turn.

Row 44 Ch4, ch1, (2dtr, ch1, 2dtr, ch1) in each ch-3 sp across, dtr in final st, turn.

Row 45 Ch3, tr in first ch-1 sp, (ch3, dc in next

ch-sp, ch3, tr in next ch-sp) rep across to final st, tr in final st, turn.

Row 46 Ch1, *dc in next ch-1 sp, (4tr, ch3, 4tr) in next ch-sp; rep across to final st, dc in final st, turn.

Row 47 Ch1, dc in first st, ch1, (4tr, ch3, 4tr, ch1) in each ch-3 sp across, dc in final st, turn.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

TO FINISH Block Shawl to measurements listed.

The shawl is worked in a semi-circle rather than a triangle

SIMPLE STEPS HOW TO BLOCK YOUR CROCHET PIECES

1 Check the yarn’s ball band for advice on whether to dry, wet or steam block your item.

To wet block, wash the item before pinning. For dry and steam blocking, pin out when dry. To pin out, lay the item flat on a towel over a blanket.

2 Using long, rust-proof pins or blocking wires, pin out to the measurements in the pattern (check the schematic for garments). Start at the corners, then move evenly around the edges. You can reposition pins if needed.

3 Place pins inside the last row or round of stitches, not in the actual stitches or you risk distorting them. Insert the pin’s point towards the centre of the fabric, away from the edge, to balance out the forces involved.

4 For wet blocking, just leave to dry. To dry block, spritz with cold water and leave to dry. To steam block, hover a steaming iron over the fabric (don’t touch it) until damp, then leave to dry. Once dry, you can remove the pins.

WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYCROCHET 71

CROCHET-ALONG

Talavera Blanket Bring Spanish sunshine into your home with the bright colours and textured stitches of Ana Morais Soares’ seven-part Talavera blanket crochet-along

PART

2

Lots of new stitches to try!

WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYCROCHET 73

CROCHET-ALONG

A BIT TRICKY ARAN WEIGHT

5.5MM HOOK

Imaginative stitches and bright colours pop on this multi-textured blanket, bringing forth visions of Spanish Talavera tiles and warm days spent by the sea. This is the second part of the CAL, and you’ll be turning the circle at the centre into a square. We hope you’ll join us on this exciting Iberian journey!

YOU WILL NEED Materials are for the whole Blanket Q Caron Simply Soft (100% acrylic, 170.1g/288m) 4 balls of Off White (9702) 3 balls of each: Blue Mint (9608) Robin’s Egg (9780) 2 balls of each: Gold (9782) Fuchsia (9764) Q A 5.5mm (US H/8) hook Q Stitch markers or scrap yarn For yarn stockists contact Wool Warehouse 01926 882818 www.woolwarehouse.co.uk

TENSION Rounds 1-10 to measure approx 10cm (4in) in diameter

MEASUREMENTS Finished Blanket measures approx 145x145cm (57x57in)

ABBREVIATIONS standing sts A standing st at beg of the round is worked starting with a slip knot on the hook, then the st indicated is worked as normal in the st or sp specified cl (cluster sts) Work all sts of a cl in the same st or sp specified, working each st of the cl up until the last yrh of each st.

At this point there will be 1 loop on the hook remaining for each st of the cl, plus the original loop on the hook (for a 2-tr cl there will be 3 loops on the hook), yrh, draw through all loops on hook For a full list, see page 94

NOTES This crochet-along has been designed in seven parts, worked from the centre out.

The Blanket is worked with RS facing throughout. You may wish to weave in ends as you work.

BLANKET PART 2

TO SQUARE THE BLANKET Pm in any st aligned with the second htr from Round 16 worked in the tr from Round 15, skip next 37 sts, *pm in next st, skip next 37 sts; rep from * twice more.

Round 19 (RS) Using Robin’s Egg, standing 2-dtr cl in any marked st, ch3, (2-dtr cl, ch3, 2-dtr cl) in same st (first corner made), *ch1, skip next 2 sts, tr in next 4 sts, htr in next 4 sts, dc in next 17 sts, htr in next 4 sts, tr in next 4 sts, ch1, skip next 2 sts, (2-dtr cl, ch3, 2-dtr cl, ch3, 2-dtr cl) in next st; rep from * 3 times more omitting last corner, ss to bed cl. [(8 tr, 8 htr, 17 dc, 8 ch-1 sp) each side, (2-dtr cl, ch3, 2-dtr cl, ch3, 2-dtr cl) each corner] Fasten off.

Round 20 Using Off White, standing FPdtr around centre 2-dtr cl of corner, (ch2, FPdtr) around same st (first corner made), *3tr in next ch-3 sp, FPtr around third cl of corner of prev round, tr in next ch-1 sp, tr in next 2 sts, htr in next 4 sts, dc in next 21 sts, htr in next 4 sts, tr in next 2 sts, tr in next ch-1 sp, FPtr around first cl of corner of prev round, 3tr in next ch-3 sp, (FPdtr, ch2, FPdtr) around centre cl of corner of prev round; rep from * 3 times more omitting last corner sts, ss to beg dtr. [(2 FPdtr, 2 FPtr, 12 tr, 8 htr, 21 dc) each side, 4 ch-2 corner sps] Fasten off.

CONTINUE WITH BLANKET Starting with Round 21, for every round that starts with rejoined yarn, the corner sts are given followed by the sts for one side. The first of these corner sts is a standing st, and you can repeat the corner and side sts around the blanket, finishing with a ss to first st, unless otherwise stated.

Round 21 Using Gold, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in ch-2 corner sp, (FPtr around next st, tr in next st) 3 times, htr in next 4 sts, dc in next 25 sts, htr in next 4 sts, (tr in next st, FPtr around next st) 3 times. [(6 FPtr, 10 tr, 8 htr, 25 dc) each side, 4 ch-2 corner sps] Fasten off.

74 WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYCROCHET

Work trios of five-trebles clusters in Fuchsia shade along the sides in Round 23

In the corners, decorative stitches add texture and make a design statement

Round 22 Using Off White, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in ch-2 corner sp, FPtr around next st, (tr in next st, FPtr around next st) 3 times, htr in next 12 sts, dc in next 11 sts, htr in next 12 sts, (FPtr around next st, tr in next st) 3 times, FPtr around next st. [(8 FPtr, 10 tr, 24 htr, 11 dc) each side, 4 ch-2 corner sps] Fasten off.

Round 23 Using Fuchsia, (dc, ch2, dc) in ch-2 corner sp, dc in next 2 sts, (FP3-tr cl around next st, dc in next st) 4 times, dc in next 5 sts, (ch6, skip next 5 sts, 5-tr cl in next st) 3 times, ch6, skip next 5 sts, dc in next 6 sts, (FP3-tr cl around next st, dc in next st) 4 times, dc in next st. [(8 FP3-tr cl, 3 5-tr cl, 4 ch-6 sp, 24 dc) each side, 4 ch-2 corner sps] Fasten off.

In foll round all htr are worked in the skipped sts from Round 22, in front of the ch-6 sps from Round 23.

CROCHET-ALONG

Round 24 Using Off White, (dc, ch2, dc) in ch-2 corner sp, dc in next 3 sts, (FPdc around next st, dc in next st) 4 times, dc in next 5 sts, (htr in next 5 skipped sts from Round 22, FPdc around next 5-tr cl) 3 times, htr in next 5 skipped sts from Round 22, dc in next 6 sts, (FPdc around next st, dc in next st) 4 times, dc in last 2 sts. [(11 FPdc, 20 htr, 26 dc) each side, 4 ch-2 corner sps] Fasten off.

Round 25 Using Blue Mint, (dc, ch2, dc) in ch-2 corner sp, dc in each st across to next corner sp.

[59 dc each side, 4 ch-2 corner sps] Fasten off.

Round 26 Using Gold, rep Round 25.

[61 dc each side, 4 ch-2 corner sps] Fasten off.

Round 27 Using Robin’s Egg, (2htr, ch2, 2htr) in ch-2 corner sp, htr in each st across to next corner sp. [65 htr each side, 4 ch-2 corner sps] Fasten off.

Round 28 Using Off White, (2htr, ch2, 2htr) in ch-2 corner sp, skip first st, htr in each st across to next corner sp.

[68 htr each side, 4 ch-2 corner sps] Fasten off.

Round 29 Using Blue Mint, (2htr, ch2, 2htr) in ch-2 corner sp, BPhtr around each st across to next corner sp, do not fasten off at end of round. [(68 BPhtr, 4 htr) each side, 4 ch-2 corner sps] Round 30 Ch2 (counts as htr), htr in next st, *(2htr, ch2, 2htr) in next ch-2 corner sp, skip first st, htr in each st across to next ch-2 corner sp; rep from * around, ss in top of beg ch-2.

[75 htr each side, 4 ch-2 corner sps] Fasten off.

SSHOW SH HOW W US US YOURS! YOUR OURRS! OU Share Sh arre e your y rp progress gre re esss with us! ourr gr group www.facebook.com/ Join ou g oup up att www u w fa facebookk.co com/ m/ groups/SCtreblemakers grroup gro oups/SCtre e le emake ke s and a d tag t g your ta y pics p on Facebook Fa ebook Fac eb k and an Instagram Ins ns agram as #TalaveraCAL ##Talavv rraaCAL

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DAISY BRACELETS

EASY PEASY 4PLY WEIGHT

2.5MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED Scheepjes Catona (100% cotton, 10g/25m) 1 ball of each: Shocking Pink (114) Old Lace (130) Electric Blue (201) Yellow Gold (208) Q A 2.5mm hook (US B/1 or C2) For yarn stockists contact Scheepjes www.scheepjes.com/en Q

TENSION Tension is not critical, but may affect yarn quantities required

MEASUREMENTS Bracelet measures approx 24cm (9 in) long

ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 94

May flowers Kelly Wilson Moore’s oral bracelets are great quickmake stash busters – hook them up in any colour!

Turn these little daisy chains into friendship bracelets, party favours or gifts, or just make one for yourself as a cheery spring accessory.

NOTES The Bracelet is worked as a continuous piece.

Work all Daisies in front of the connecting chains.

The bracelet is made in one continuous piece, so there’s no sewing required!

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DAISY CHAIN BRACELET Using any colour, ch23.

First Daisy Working in third ch from hook: 2tr, ch2, ss, (ch2, 2tr, ch2, ss) 4 times.

Next Daisy Ch10, working in third ch from hook: 2tr, ch2, ss, (ch2, 2tr, ch2, ss) 4 times.

Rep Next Daisy another 4 times, or to desired length.

Ch20 and fasten off.

TO FINISH Weave in ends.

Slightly dampen and pin out to dry.

THE DYE LOT

FF

Life in the Long Grass Meet an indie dyer and indulge in a design with their skeins After both Caroline Niland and her partner, Jonny, became unemployed during the last recession, Caroline realised she “wanted to work from home, work with a craft and be inspired by our surroundings every day.” The couple added a makeshift dye studio to the 100-year-old farmhouse they were renovating, and Life in the Long Grass (aka LITLG) was born.

MAKING A DIFFERENCE The LITLG team now consists of seven people, and everyone works to make sure that ethical practices and sustainability remain at the heart of everything they do.

“It’s so important to us to run our business ethically,” says Caroline. “Our studio is deep in the rural countryside, so we make sure our water is reused, clear and filtered through

our natural filtering system, which passes through layers of sand, rock and soil and out through reeds and willows. We dye using untreated rainwater.

“The welfare of the animals is a concern for us, too, so we source ethical yarn from small farmers and we don’t use yarn from sheep that have been mulesed.”

INSPIRED NAMES Several years ago, as Caroline and Jonny drove up an overgrown lane to view the 100-year-old derelict farmhouse that would someday become their home and design headquarters, the words ‘Life in the Long Grass’ suddenly ran through Caroline’s mind.

“The words stayed with me and had such significance that when I set up the studio, it was the only name I could give it. It reflects our work and our way of life.”

Caroline names the LITLG yarns in the same evocative manner. “They come to me

sometimes before I design the colourways.

Out on a walk, I’ll see something like a delicate seed-head, and when I get to the studio I could spend all day replicating the colours I’ve seen. Other times the names come afterwards and are always taken from the beauty of the nature that surrounds us.”

GETTING CRAFTY Caroline crochets using her own hand-dyed yarns, experimenting with different bases to see what they might bring to a project.

“When I have time, I love to design, but this is a slow process for me as the business takes up most of my energy,” she says. “I have a lot of ideas in my mind, which influence the yarn I dye, for sure. I like to picture what people could make with those palettes...

Other designers take our colourways and make the most beautiful designs.” www.litlg.com Instagram: @litlg WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYCROCHET 77

Life in the Long Grass Singles Sock in Damask

Well rounded Add some stylish comfort to your living room with this circular textured cushion by Natalie Beard 78 WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYCROCHET

THE DYE LOT

FF Try your hand at popcorn stitches with this satisfying make. The colour and shape show o the colour variations perfectly!

EASY PEASY 4PLY WEIGHT

3.5MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED Life in the Long Grass Singles Sock (100% superwash Merino, 100g/366m) 2 skeins of Damask Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook Q Round cushion pad, 42cm For yarn stockists contact www.litlg.com Q

TENSION Rounds 1-6 measures 10cm (4in) in diameter using a 3.5mm hook, or size needed to obtain correct tension

MEASUREMENTS To fit cushion pad measuring 42cm (16 in) in diameter

ABBREVIATIONS pc (popcorn) Work 5tr in same st, remove live loop from your hook, insert hook in top of first tr, place loop back on hook and pull through st, ch1 to close For a full list, see page 94

NOTES Yarn is hand-dyed in small batches and the colours available may vary.

Cushion is made up of 2 identical Panels.

Each Panel is worked in rounds with RS facing throughout.

The Panels are sewn together around the cushion pad at the end.

CUSHION PANEL MAKE 2 Make a magic loop.

Round 1 (RS) Ch3 (counts as tr throughout), 11tr in loop, ss to top of beg ch-3. [12 sts] Round 2 (RS) Ch3, tr in st at base of ch-3, 2tr in each st around, ss to top of beg ch-3. [24 sts] Round 3 Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), dc in first st, (pc in next st, dc in next st) 11 times, pc in final st, ss to beg dc.

Round 4 Ch3, tr in st at base of ch-3, tr in next st, (2tr in next st, tr in next st) 11 times, ss to top of beg ch-3. [36 sts] Round 5 Ch3, tr in st at base of ch-3, tr in next 2 sts, (2tr in next st, tr in next 2 sts) 11 times, ss to top of beg ch-3. [48 sts] Round 6 Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), dc in first st, (pc in next st, dc in next st) rep to final st, pc in final st, ss to beg dc.

Round 7 Ch3, tr in st at base of ch-3, tr in next 3 sts, (2tr in next st, tr in next 3 sts) 11 times, ss to top of beg ch-3. [60 sts] Round 8 Ch3, tr in st at base of ch-3, tr in next 4 sts, (2tr in next st, tr in next 4 sts) 11 times, ss to top of beg ch-3. [72 sts] Round 9 As Round 6.

Round 10 Ch3, tr in st at base of ch-3, tr in next 5 sts, (2tr in next st, tr in next 5 sts) 11 times, ss to top of beg ch-3. [84 sts]

Round 11 Ch3, tr in st at base of ch-3, tr in next 6 sts, (2tr in next st, tr in next 6 sts) 11 times, ss to top of beg ch-3. [96 sts] Round 12 As Round 6.

Round 13 Ch3, tr in st at base of ch-3, tr in next 7 sts, (2tr in next st, tr in next 7 sts) 11 times, ss to top of beg ch-3. [108 sts] Round 14 Ch3, tr in st at base of ch-3, tr in next 8 sts, (2tr in next st, tr in next 8 sts) 11 times, ss to top of beg ch-3. [120 sts] Round 15 As Round 6.

Round 16 Ch3, tr in st at base of ch-3, tr in next 9 sts, (2tr in next st, tr in next 9 sts) 11 times, ss to top of beg ch-3. [132 sts] Round 17 Ch3, tr in st at base of ch-3, tr in next 10 sts, (2tr in next st, tr in next 10 sts) 11 times, ss to top of beg ch-3. [144 sts] Round 18 As Round 6.

Round 19 Ch3, tr in st at base of ch-3, tr in next 11 sts, (2tr in next st, tr in next 11 sts) 11 times, ss to top of beg ch-3. [156 sts] Round 20 Ch3, tr in st at base of ch-3, tr in next 12 sts, (2tr in next st, tr in next 12 sts) 11 times, ss to top of beg ch-3. [168 sts] Round 21 As Round 6.

Round 22 Ch3, tr in st at base of ch-3, tr in next 13 sts, (2tr in next st, tr in next 13 sts) 11 times, ss to top of beg ch-3. [180 sts] Round 23 Ch3, tr in st at base of ch-3, tr in next 14 sts, (2tr in next st, tr in next 14 sts) 11 times, ss to top of beg ch-3. [192 sts] Round 24 As Round 6.

Round 25 Ch3, tr in st at base of ch-3, tr in next 15 sts, (2tr in next st, tr in next 15 sts) 11 times, ss to top of beg ch-3. [204 sts] Fasten off and weave in ends.

TO MAKE UP Place the Panels together with RS facing out.

Whipstitch the Panels together, inserting the cushion pad as you join.

Weave in ends.

The popcorn stitch pattern creates rich texture in this circular cushion design

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Show us yours Join our gang of Treble Makers and share your thoughts and makes with us, for a chance to be featured here, use our hashtag #Sctreblemaker

GOOD GIFT

ER! WINN

We crafters love to give a homemade gift, and who can blame us? Carolann McKay made this beautiful scarf from issue 120 for her mum, and we know she’ll love it.

Lightweight and made with a luxurious merino wool, it’s the perfect scarf to wear all year round – she can wrap herself up in the cold or drape it over her shoulders on chilly summer evenings.

Lovely lamb Emma Lawrence is fully embracing the season by making her very own little sheep companion.

This project from 110 was the perfect distraction while Emma was ill and unable to get on with her own lambing duties on her farm. Well done for using your time off to make something amazing!

POTTER PALS The Beatrix Potter books are coming to life in Carolyn Zammit’s home thanks to the five charming characters she hooked up from issues 95 and 110. We’re sure her living room feels just like a storybook now that these cuties have arrived.

DOUBLE TAP We’ve been double tapping on Instagram and admiring your makes.

Tag us @simplycrochetmag and use the hashtag #SCtreblemaker HATS OFF TO YOU Emily Owen, aka @emilyowensoprano, enjoyed making this hat and scarf set from issue 117 as a gift. We think she should make another set for herself as well!

PERFECT PLATYPUS This platypus from issue 117 is enjoying its day out visiting a local river. Sam Hadfield, aka @sam_unravelled, hooked this adorable little project.

THROW DOWN Issue 74’s bright throw was the project for Joanna Curry, aka @bluehens12, who hooked up this masterpiece for her home. We think it looks fantastic!

TWINKLE TOES Sarah Marzetti, aka @marsupialmummy, is keeping her toes warm with these Tunisian crochet socks from issue 120.

The various tones in the yarn look great!

THE LOWDOWN It’s simple to be in with a chance of winning a great hooky prize in a future issue! Show us w your Simply Crochet makes on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram or via email by 31 May, 2022.

For all terms and conditions, and more information, visit www.gathered.how/simplycrochetcomps COMPETITION RULES The Promoter is Our Media Limited (an Immediate Group Company) (company number 05715415). [This promotion is in no way sponsored, endorsed, administered by, or associated with Facebook or Instagram.] The promotion is open to all residents of the UK, including the Channel Islands, aged 18 years or older, except the Promoter’s employees or contractors and anyone connected with the promotion or their direct family members. Competitions in issue 123 are open from 00:01 on 17 May 2022 until 11:59pm on 14 June 2022. By entering the promotion, the participants agree. (a) to be bound by these terms and conditions; and (b) that should they win the promotion, their name and likeness may be used by the Promoter for pre-arranged promotional purposes. Entrants should enter by Instagram, Facebook or email. Entries received after the closing date of the promotion will not be considered. Entrants must supply to Our Media Limited their [personal data required for us to run competition, choose winner(s) and arrange for prize to be sent to winner(s) – examples would be name and email address]. The Promoter will use entrants’ personal details in accordance with the Immediate Privacy Policy (www.immediatemedia.co.uk/privacy-policy). [These details are being collected and used by the Promoter, not by Facebook or Instagram.] Only one entry will be permitted per person, regardless of method of entry. Bulk entries made by third parties will not be permitted. The winning entrant[s] will be the first correct entry drawn at random from all the correct entries after the closing date. The Promoter’s decision as to the winner is final and no correspondence relating to the promotion will be entered into. The Promoter may share the details of the winner[s] with the prize provider for the purposes of fulfilling/delivering the prize[s]. The winner[s] will be notified within 7 days of the close of the promotion by email. If the winner cannot be contacted, or fails to respond within 7 days of such notification being sent, the Promoter reserves the right to offer the prize to a runner up, or to re-offer the prize in any future promotion. There is no cash alternative and the prize will not be transferable.

Prizes must be taken as stated and cannot be deferred. The Promoter reserves the right to substitute the prize with one of the same or greater value. The surname and county of residence of the winner[s] will be available upon request by sending an SAE to simplycrochet@immediate.co.uk within two months of the closing date of the promotion. The Promoter will contact the winner[s] before releasing this information and provide the winner[s] the opportunity to object or limit the amount of information shared. The Promoter reserves the right to amend these terms and conditions or to cancel, alter or amend the promotion at any stage, if deemed necessary in its opinion, or if circumstances arise outside of its control. The Promoter does not accept any responsibility for lost, delayed or fraudulent entries. The Promoter excludes liability to the full extent permitted by law for any loss, damage or injury occurring to the participant arising from his or her entry into the promotion or occurring to the winner[s] arising from his or her acceptance of a prize. [By entering this promotion you agree to release Facebook/ Instagram of any liability howsoever caused in respect of this promotion.]. The promotion is subject to the laws of England.

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@ SIMPLYCROCHET

A CHICK IN THE HAND A little bird told us Isobella Callaby, aka @thatcrochetgirlonthetrain, used issue 94’s pattern to create this super-cute gift for her mum.

Inspired by the birds currently nesting in her own garden-bird box, we know the gift will be much loved. Maybe she’ll make some more and create a whole family of chirpy springtime friends!

STICKING AROUND This cute amigurumi project proves that insects can be gorgeous, too! Imogen Richardson, aka @thecrochet_ doctor, hooked this project up using a pattern from issue 120. She says the shades are inspired by her garden’s colours. This sweet bug now takes pride of place in Imogen’s living room, living in her peace lily.

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crochet

Unravelled With

Becky Skuse

How do I follow a stitch chart?

Brush up on your technique with our simple guide…

At first glance, stitch charts might look complicated, but with a little bit of know-how, they can make your crocheting so much easier.

Stitch charts come in various styles, but in this guide we’re going to focus on the charts where every stitch is represented by a symbol.

This type of chart gives you a visual guide of which stitch to work where and are really helpful for complex stitch patterns.

The other type of stitch chart you might see is where there’s a grid of squares – squares in different colours represent different yarn colours, or squares with different symbols to represent different

stitches or groups of stitches. Whichever type you’ve got, a good pattern should include a key and notes to explain how and where to use the chart, so give this a read before hooking.

Most patterns use a stitch chart in conjunction with the written text, so it’s a good idea to look at both together. The text will help you to understand the fine detail of how to work from the stitch chart, while a stitch chart will help you to understand the instructions in the pattern text. Remember to check the text for any colour changes between stitches, rows or rounds. Let’s hook…

What do I need to know?

Start by learning what the symbols mean…

Within the chart, the position of each symbol shows you which stitch you need to insert your hook into on the row below when you’re making that stitch. A symbol directly above a stitch means you work into that stitch. With other symbols, just follow the stem down to see where the stitch should emerge from.

Stitch charts also use colour coding to help you see which symbols belong to which row or round. The symbols on each row or round should be in a different colour to the next one, to help you keep track of which symbols to follow. Each row or round is numbered, so you can easily compare it to the pattern text.

Crochet stitch chart symbols

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Find out more about Becky at makemedo.wordpress.com

With crochet stitch charts, every stitch is represented by a symbol.

Most charts use the same standard set of symbols, which is helpful.

Each symbol usually looks a bit like the stitch itself and the relative sizes and shapes are quite accurate, so a chart will resemble the finished stitch pattern quite well.

There are loads of different symbols, so check your pattern or key for a definition. The symbols might be labelled differently for UK or US crochet terms. Below is a guide to the main symbols you’ll see with both UK and US terms. There’s no slipknot symbol on a stitch chart, just as a written pattern doesn’t tell you to make one.

a

F

How do I follow a stitch chart in rows?

It’s easy to reproduce the symbols in rows…

Here’s an example of a stitch chart for a pattern worked in rows – and the resulting crocheted piece.

A stitch chart usually has a helpful starting arrow – if not, just start at the bottom left.

Follow the direction of the arrow, making a stitch for each symbol in order. For rows, that means making a slipknot and foundation chain. My tip: rather than count the chains from the chart, just refer to the pattern text!

01

Next you should see the turning chain with a ‘1’ next to it – this is the start of Row 1.

Follow the symbols in the same colour as the ‘1’ from right to left – they will tell you which stitches to work and where. In our example, work a UK treble (or US dc) next – the stem of the stitch is emerging from the fifth chain from the hook, so that’s where you’d work it.

Continue to follow the symbols across the row, working each stitch in order. In our

example, there’s a chain, another treble into the same chain below, then skip two chains, treble into the next chain and so on.

At the end of the row, turn and work the next row, labelled ‘2’. This time, follow the symbols from left to right. If you’re righthanded, work the stitches in your hand from right to left – it may be confusing but it’s only on even-numbered rows. For left-handers, it happens on odd-numbered rows instead.

02

How do I follow a stitch chart in rounds?

Use the same skills to work the symbols in rounds…

Here’s an example of a stitch chart for a granny square worked in rounds – and the resulting crocheted piece.

In rounds, you always start at the centre of the chart and move outwards. So, start with a foundation ring of chains or magic loop.

To start Round 1 and each round, look for a turning chain or round number (usually just

01

to the right of the first stitch of the round).

Then follow the symbols in order in an anti-clockwise direction. If you’re lefthanded, you’ll be working the stitches in your hand in a clockwise direction, which might seem confusing.

At the end of the round, look for a slip stitch symbol next to the stitch to work into,

to join the round. Usually you wouldn’t turn so just continue as before.

In our example, the stitches of Round 2 and beyond are worked into a chain space rather than specific chains – there’s no easy way to convey this in the chart, but that information should be written out clearly in the pattern text.

02

Let Becky solve your hooky conundrums!

Crochet Unravelled aims to deep dive into the techniques, tutorials and terminology that will make you a better hookster. Have you got a question you want Becky to unravel?

Send it in to us at simplycrochet@immediate.co.uk

Don’t miss the next workshop… I’ll show you how to to add stitches at each end of a row

WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYCROCHET 83

YARN REVIEWS

c i y n a a r n g r s O nature-friendly with these gorgeou s g n i h s yarn t s Keep 6 POINTED FLOWER MOTIF

Ch4, join with ss in first ch to make a ring.

ROUND 1 *Ch6, dc in second ch from hook, htr in next ch, tr in next ch, htr in next ch, dc in next ch, ss into ring; rep from * 6 times.

FASTEN OFF and weave in ends.

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03

02

06

04

05

Try adding but totonths ore mini pompoms owers centres of the fl

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YARN REVIEWS

Rico Design Essentials organic cotton ARan WEIGHT Aran CONTENT 100% organic cotton BALL 50g/90m HOOK 5mm RRP £2.49 Rico Design’s Essentials Organic Cotton Aran is a 100% bio yarn that’s a fab eco-friendly addition to their Essentials family of yarns. It features a nice relaxed twist and smooth feel with a minimal halo, giving you squishy aran-weight stitches that have excellent definition

For those of you who love to work with 100% wool but still want an eco-friendly organic choice, we think Patagonia Organic Merino from Juniper Moon Farm would be perfect for you. Not only is it beautifully soft and natural and a pleasure to crochet with, it’s also

WEIGHT DK CONTENT 100% organic cotton BALL 50g/170m HOOK 3mm RRP £2.99

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and create a cool, breathable fabric. It’s available in 24 colours – largely soft, pretty pastel shades, but with a few bold primary colours too. It’s machine washable at 30ºC, and the Organic Cotton range is also available in a DK yarn, too. www.rico-design.de/en

Juniper Moon Farm Patagonia Organic MErino WEIGHT DK CONTENT 100% Merino BALL 100g/350m HOOK 4mm RRP £12.99

Scheepjes Organicon

Organicon is a beautifully soft and lightweight cotton yarn that’s been produced with sustainability in mind. As well as having the GOTS* certification, it’s also produced with a 100% biological wastewater treatment approach. The resulting yarn is lovely cotton that has a well-

defined twist, is smooth and even and feels super-soft against skin. It’s perfect for summer garments and other projects. There are 21 gentle pastel shades in the range, and the yarn is machine washable at 30ºC and can be ironed. www.scheepjes.com

Stylecraft Naturals organic cotton WEIGHT DK CONTENT 100% organic cotton BALL 50g/105m HOOK 4mm RRP £2.29 04

03

chock-full of eco-qualities. It’s organic and sustainable (it has the GOTS* certification and is pesticide-free), and it’s also humanely grown in Argentina and is non-mulesed, too. The yarn is available in 37 solid shades and is hand wash only. www.lovecrafts.com

Stylecraft’s Naturals Organic Cotton yarn is a great choice for your summer cotton crochet projects. It’s got a lovely soft natural feel to it and is silky smooth to crochet with, plus it also has a uniform but relatively relaxed twist that helps give fabrics a nice drape. It comes in

38 shades that are perfect for summery makes, ranging from bright vibrant colours to soft pastel tones. It’s machine washable at 30 C, can be ironed on a cool setting and can even be tumble dried and dry cleaned – impressive! www.stylecraft-yarns.co.uk

Schoppel Zauerball Cotton

Lana Grossa Per Fortuna

WEIGHT 4ply CONTENT 100% organic cotton BALL 100g/420m HOOK 2.5mm RRP £9.89

WEIGHT DK CONTENT 74% organic cotton, 26% recycled polyamide BALL 50g/190m HOOK 4mm RRP £5.59

05

If you’re looking for a cotton yarn with fabulous colours for your 4ply sock or shawl projects, then you really are in for a treat with the Zauerball Cotton yarn from Schoppel Wolle. It’s a 100% organic cotton yarn produced in Europe using new water and environmentally-friendly

technology. The yarn has a super-soft matte feel to it, too, with lovely long colour changes running throughout the entire ball. With 14 colour combos to choose from, you’ll be able to create some stunning gradients.

Machine wash at 30ºC. www.schoppel-wolle.de/en

For those who enjoy an organic yarn that’s packed full of interesting characteristics, Per Fortuna from Lana Grossa is one to try this summer. It’s made up of a fine chainette that has fluffy fibres sticking out of the core which create an eyelash-yarn style effect. The

*GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) certified organic textiles must contain a certain percentage of certified organic fibres.

06

result is a yarn that, though incredibly easy to crochet with, creates a fluffy tactile fabric with a slight shine to it. There are 35 colours in the range, and as well as using recycled polyamide it’s also GOTS* certified. Machine wash at 30ºC. www.lana-grossa.de/en WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYCROCHET 85

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Crochet Wn o Mp y Oc e !

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HOWTO VIDEO S

For handy v step pic ideos and step-bytutorials, vis www.gtuare it crochet-fothered.how/ r-beginne rs

Crochet essentials

Over the next few pages, you’ll nd simple step-by-step guides to many useful stitches and techniques that you’ll use every time you pick up a hook HOLDING THE HOOK

HOLDING THE YARN

Try these methods and see which works best

Even tension results in even stitches

PENCIL METHOD Hold the hook like a pencil, in your right hand (if you’re right-handed), about 3-5cm from the hooked end. If your hook has a flat area, you’ll find it comfortable to hold it here.

KNIFE METHOD Hold the hook between your thumb and forefinger, about 3-5cm from the hooked end, resting the end of the hook against your palm. This will give you lots of control.

METHOD ONE Pass the ball end of the yarn between the little finger and third fingers of your left hand (if you are right-handed), then behind the third and middle fingers, over your index finger.

METHOD TWO Loop the ball end of the yarn loosely around the little finger of your left hand, then take it over the third finger, behind the middle finger and over your index finger.

3 Catch the ball end of the yarn with the hook and pull it back through the centre of the loop, taking the yarn through with it.

4 Pull both ends of the yarn to tighten the knot, then pull just the ball end to tighten the loop so it’s close to the hook, but not touching it.

MAKING A SLIPKNOT The first loop on the hook

1 Hold the tail of the ball of yarn in your left hand and drape the yarn clockwise over the top of it to form a loose, circular loop.

2 Hold the loop between left thumb and forefinger, then insert the crochet hook through the centre of the loop from front to back.

CHAIN STITCH Use this stitch to make your foundation chain

How to count chains 1

9

1 Hold the hook in your right hand, and both the yarn end and the working yarn in your left hand. Move the hook under and over the yarn to wrap it around anticlockwise.

2 Pull the hook towards the slipknot, catching the yarn in the hook, and pulling it through the slipknot loop. This forms your first chain (ch) stitch.

Repeat steps 1 and 2 to form a chain length.

3 This is what your row of chains will look like. Hold the chain with your left hand near the hook, to keep the tension.

Keep going until you have the number of chains that’s stated in your pattern.

8

7

6

5

4

3

2

Each chain or loop counts as one stitch. Never count your first slipknot or the loop on the hook (called the working loop). So that you can be accurate, make sure the chain is not twisted and that the front is facing you.

WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYCROCHET 89

YOUR GUIDE TREBLE CROCHET (tr) US term: double crochet One of the most popular stitches in crochet, this simple stitch is twice as high as a double crochet stitch

1 To work a treble crochet, start by winding yrh and then insert the hook under the top 2 loops of the stitch on the previous row.

2 Wrap the yarn around the hook (yrh) and pull the yarn through the stitch only.

DOUBLE TREBLE CROCHET (dtr) US term: treble crochet This is a stitch regularly used as an elongated version of the treble (described above). It’s worked in a very similar way to the treble, as follows: 1 Make a foundation chain. Skip 4ch, *yrh twice, and insert the hook under the top loop of the next ch.

2 Yrh, pull the yarn through the ch loop only (4 loops on hook).

3 Yrh and pull the yarn through 2 loops only (3 loops on hook).

Yrh and pull the yarn through 2 loops only (2 loops on hook).

4 Yrh and pull the yarn through the remaining 2 loops. Repeat from * to make more dtr sts.

5 To make the next row of dtr, turn work and ch4. This turning chain counts as the first dtr in a new row. Skip first st at the base of the t-ch, work 1dtr under the top 2 loops of the second stitch in the previous row; continue to the end of the row.

3 You will now have 3 loops on the hook. Yrh again, and draw the yarn through just the first 2 loops on the hook.

4 You will now have 2 loops on the hook. Yrh again and draw the yarn through the remaining loops on the hook. Your treble crochet is complete.

TRIPLE TREBLE CROCHET (ttr) US term: double treble crochet This is one of the longest standard crochet stitches and is mainly used in fancy stitch patterns. It’s taller than a double treble crochet stitch (described left) and is worked in a very similar way, as follows: 1 Make a foundation ch. Skip 5 ch, *yrh 3 times, insert hook under top loop of next ch.

2 Yrh, pull yarn through ch loop only (5 loops on hook).

3 † Yrh, draw loop through

2 loops only. Repeat from † 3 times more and your triple treble will be finished. Repeat from * to make more ttr sts.

4 To make the next row, turn work and ch5. This turning chain counts as the first triple treble in a new row. Skip first st at base of the t-ch. Work 1 triple treble, inserting hook under the top 2 loops of the second st in the previous row; continue to the end of the row.

TURNING CHAIN (t-ch)

How to count stitches

For an even finish, start each row with a turning chain

Check your work is correct

In crochet, you need to add turning chains (t-chs) to the beginning of rows. The reason for this is to bring the hook up to the height of the stitches you’re crocheting. Each basic stitch has its own number of chains. The

table below tells you how many t-ch sts form the first stitch. *For dc, usually the turning chain does not count as a stitch, and the first stitch of the row is worked into the stitch at the base of the turning chain.

STITCH

Add to foundation chain before starting row

Skip at start of foundation row (counts as first st)

For turning chain (counts as first st)

Double crochet

1 ch

1 ch*

1 ch*

Half treble

1 ch

2 ch

2 ch

Treble

2 ch

3 ch

3 ch

Double treble

3 ch

4 ch

4 ch

Triple treble

4 ch

5 ch

5 ch

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Being able to count your stitches is very important and helps you to ensure that you’re following a pattern correctly.

It’s a good idea to count your stitches at the end of every row.

To count short stitches such as double crochet, look at the plaited tops (see above right). For taller stitches, count the upright ‘stems’ – each ‘stem’ is counted as a stitch (see right).

1

1

2

2

3

3

4

4

5

5

6

6

7

8

7

9

YOUR GUIDE HOW TO CHANGE COLOUR

INCREASING AND DECREASING

Create stripes and other colour effects

Shaping stitches are vital for making garments

1 Before you work the final yrh (yarn round hook) on the last stitch of a row in the old colour, drop the old yarn and then pick up the new one with your hook.

2 Pull through a loop of the new yarn to finish the old stitch. The working loop will be in the new colour.

Continue, keeping the old yarn at the wrong side.

INCREASE To increase one stitch is very simple – work one stitch into the next stitch on the row below. When you’ve finished, work another stitch into the same stitch.

DECREASE For a quick decrease, just skip one stitch.

For a neater look, work the first part of one stitch and then begin the next stitch.

Finish both together.

SEWING SEAMS You can join crochet seams by using a tapestry needle or a crochet hook, using one of these four methods

1 Sewing with a tapestry needle is the regular and neat way to join seams. Place two pieces of crochet right sides together and oversew them as shown above, using a tapestry or yarn needle.

2 To slip stitch a seam, place the crochet pieces right sides together. *Insert hook into both edge stitches, yrh and pull through to complete 1 slip stitch; rep from * working into the next edge stitches, keeping work fairly loose.

3 For a dc seam, place the crochet pieces right sides together, or wrong sides together for a visible seam.

Work as for slip stitch seam, using double crochet instead of slip stitch.

4 A useful variation on the dc seam, the dc and chain seam is used when less bulk and/or greater flexibility is needed.

Work 1 double crochet and 1 chain alternately.

How to check your tension Make and measure a swatch to check your tension Most crochet patterns state the tension required, in rows and stitches of a specific type. Make a swatch at least 15cm square and check that your tension matches. Place a ruler across the swatch and insert two pins, 10cm apart. Then place the ruler along a column of stitches and insert two pins 10cm apart. Count the stitches and rows between the pins – if you have less than the pattern, your tension is too loose so you need to use a smaller hook, but if you have too many, use a larger hook. It’s usually better to match the stitches than rows, because you can always work more or fewer rows.

WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYCROCHET 91

YOUR GUIDE SLIP STITCH (ss)

WORKING IN ROWS

This stitch has no height – often used to join rounds

Follow these simple rules to construct crochet fabric

1 The slip stitch is used to join a length of chain into the round. Insert the hook from front to back into the first chain you worked. Wrap yarn round the hook (yrh) in an anticlockwise direction.

2 Pull the yarn through the chain stitch (as shown) and then the loop already on the hook to make a slip stitch. You can also work this stitch into each stitch along a row to form a neat edging.

1 The first row is made by working across the foundation chain from right to left. At the end of the chain or row, turn the work so that the yarn is behind the hook.

2 For the next row, first make the turning chain for the stitch you’re about to work (see opposite). Now work the next stitch into the top of the stitches on your first row, missing the first stitch.

DOUBLE CROCHET (dc) US term: single crochet One of the key stitches in crochet, doubles are simple, compact stitches that form a dense fabric

1 To make a double crochet stitch, insert the hook under the top 2 loops of the next stitch on the previous row.

2 Wind the yarn around the hook (yrh).

3 Pull the yarn through the stitch, giving you 2 loops on your crochet hook.

4 Yarn round hook again, then pull the yarn through both loops. There’s your double crochet made and you’ll have one loop left on the hook, ready to do the next stitch.

HALF TREBLE CROCHET (htr) US term: half double crochet A handy stitch that’s between double and treble crochet in size, and it looks slightly looser than double crochet

1 To make a half treble crochet stitch, work to where you want the htr and then wind the yarn round the hook (yrh).

92 WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYCROCHET

2 Insert the hook under the top 2 loops of the next stitch in the previous row. Wrap yarn around the hook again (yrh).

3 Pull the yarn through the stitch only (3 loops on hook).

4 Yarn round hook again, pull the yarn through all 3 loops.

You’ve made a half treble crochet. Continue working htr into next and following sts to the end of the row.

YOUR GUIDE FOUNDATION RING

WORKING STITCHES INTO A RING

Create a foundation ring for working in the round

To make circles, tubes and other shapes

1 Make a chain the length stated in the pattern instructions. Next, insert the crochet hook into the first chain. Close the ring with a slip stitch, working yrh…

2 …and pull yarn through 2 loops on hook. Now you’re ready to start crocheting in the round, following the instructions given right.

1 Make a foundation ring and work the t-ch (3ch for treble sts). Work a treble st as usual, but insert hook into centre of ring. For treble sts, yrh, insert hook into ring.

2 Finish the treble, as usual (yrh, pull yarn through ring, yrh, pull yarn through first 2 loops, yrh, pull yarn through 2 loops). Work more sts into the ring as needed.

3 Make a t-ch for the sts you want to work (above, we made 1 t-ch for dc). Work your sts into the magic loop, over both the loop and the tail end (so, 2 yarn strands).

4 Once you’ve worked the first round of stitches, pull the tail end of yarn to draw up the ring.

Work a slip stitch to join the last and first sts to finish the first round (as instructed in the guide below).

MAGIC LOOP An alternative foundation ring for working in the round

Working yarn

Tail end

1 To start a magic loop, don’t make a slipknot. Instead, make a loop with the yarn, leaving a tail around 10cm long. Make sure the tail end is under the working yarn.

2 Now insert your hook into the loop, from front to back. Wrap the working yarn around the hook and pull the yarn through the loop.

JOINING ROUNDS Finish off each round of crochet stitches nice and neatly by using a slip stitch

Rounds or spirals

1 To close a round of stitches, work a slip stitch into the top of the turning chain. To do this, insert the hook into the top stitch of the turning chain.

2 Then place the yarn round the hook. Pull the yarn through the turning chain stitch and through the original stitch on your hook.

3 You’ve slip stitched the round together! Before working another round, be sure to make the required turning chain. Always work rounds on the right side, unless your pattern instructs you otherwise.

Some patterns are worked in rounds that are joined together at the end of each round (see left).

Other patterns are worked in a spiral, so you don’t need to join the rounds at the end, just keep going, working into the next stitch on the previous row.

Amigurumi toys are often worked in a spiral like this.

WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYCROCHET 93

©Stephanie Lau, www.allaboutami.com

Check which technique you need to use

YOUR GUIDE

Crochet hook conversions

Abbreviations across approx beg bl BP

ch(s) ch-sp(s) chcl(s) cont dc dc2tog

dec dtr dtr2tog fdc ftr fl foll/folls FP

htr htr2tog in next inc LH lp(s)

to end of the row approximate(ly) beginning insert hook under back loop only Back Post: work st indicated, inserting hook around post of st from back to front to back and not in top of st chain/chain stitch(es) chain space(s) refers to ch made previously, eg. ch-3 clusters continue double crochet (insert hook in next st, yrh & draw a loop through) twice, yrh & draw through all 3 loops on hook decrease double treble crochet work 2dtr together foundation dc foundation tr insert hook under front loop only following/follows Front Post: As BP, inserting hook around post from front to back to front half treble work 2htr together sts to be worked into the same stitch increase left hand loop(s)

meas patt(s) pm prev qtr rem rep RH rnd(s) RS sk sp(s) ss st(s) t-ch(s) tog tr tr cl

measures pattern(s) place marker previous quadruple treble remain(s)/remaining repeat right hand round(s) right side skip space(s) slip stitch stitch(es) turning chain(s) together treble crochet (yrh, insert hook in sp/ st, yrh & pull up loop, yrh & draw through 2 loops) number of times indicated, yrh & draw through all loops on hook (yrh, insert hook in next st, yrh & pull up loop, yrh a& draw through 2 loops) twice, yrh & draw through all loops on hook triple treble crochet wrong side yarn round hook work instructions immediately foll *, then rep as many more times as directed work all instructions in the brackets as many times as directed

tr2tog

ttr WS yrh *

()

HOW TO GET A PERFECT FINISH To prevent your hard work unravelling once you’ve finished crocheting, fasten the ends off carefully, following our instructions below Complete the final stitch, then cut the yarn about 15cm from the work. Pull it through the last loop on the hook and pull to close the loop. Thread the yarn tail onto a tapestry needle and weave into the back of the work. Most crochet items don’t need a lot of blocking, but cotton lace work usually does.

To do this, carefully pin out the item with rust-proof pins, mist with a water spray and leave to dry naturally.

94 WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYCROCHET

UK

METRIC

US

14

2mm

–

13

2.25mm

B/1

12

2.5mm

–

–

2.75mm

C/2

11

3mm

–

10

3.25mm

D/3

9

3.5mm

E/4

–

3.75mm

F/5

8

4mm

G/6

7

4.5mm

7

6

5mm

H/8

5

5.5mm

I/9

4

6mm

J/10

3

6.5mm

2

7mm

–

0

8mm

L/11

00

9mm

M/13

000

10mm

N/15

K/10

Which hook do I use?

Hook size

UK yarn weight

2.5-3.5mm hook

4ply yarn

3.5-4.5mm hook

double knitting yarn

5-6mm hook

aran yarn

7mm and bigger

chunky yarn

UK/US conversions UK

US

chain

ch

chain

ch

slip stitch

ss

slip stitch

ss

double crochet

dc

single crochet

sc

half treble

htr

half double

hdc

treble

tr

double

dc

double treble

dtr

treble

tr

triple treble

ttr

double treble

dtr

CHARTS

Charts & Diagrams Follow these charts when making the Fair Isle scarf, hat, chicken, cardigan and pocket, as well as the cactus blanket trim and the birdhouse bag.

Fair Isle pocket, page 21

Fair Isle scarf, page 20 Chart 1 Key

7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Yarn A Yarn B Yarn C Yarn D

5

Key

Worked as cross stitch Chart 2

6 5 4 3 2 1 15

10

Fair Isle chicken, page 22

5

44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10

Fair Isle blanket, page 21 25

20

15

10

Key

Cross stitch in Yarn A Cross stitch in Yarn B 5

Cross stitch in Yarn C Cross stitch in Yarn D Cross stitch in Yarn E

18

15

10

5

8

5

Key

Living Coral Oyster Pearl Cool Aloe Summer Haze Fresh Water

WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYCROCHET 95

CHARTS

Fair Isle hat, page 23 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Cactus border, page 39 Key

Yarn A

60

Yarn B

58

59 57 56

Yarn C

55 54 53

Yarn D

52

Yarn E

50

51 49

8

5

48 47 46 45

Mother and child Fair Isle cardigans, page 25

44 43 42 41

Waves

40 39

5

38

3

36

4

37 35

2

34

1

33

5

32

Key

Carnations

31

Yarn B

30

Yarn C

28

29 27 26

Yarn D

4 3

25 24

Yarn E

2

23 22

1

Cross stitch in Yarn C

21 20 19 18 17

Roses

16 15

10

14

9

13 12

8

11

7

10

5

8

6

9 7

4

6

3

5

2

4 3

1 12 10

2

5

30

Birdhouse bag, page 59 33 31 29 27 25 23 21 34

19

32

17

30

15

28

13

26 24 22

Squeaky

9

Dolly

5

18 16 14 12 10 8

6

4

96 WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYCROCHET

2

Med Blue

11 7

20

Key

Tea Time Jammy Wigwam

3

Freckle

1

Currant Bun

25

20

15

10

5

CHARTS

Cactus border, page 39 184

124

183

123 182

122

181

121 180

120

179

119 178

118

177

117 176

116

175

115 174

114

173

113 172

112

171

111 170

110

169

109 168

108

167

107 166

106

165

105 164

104

163

103 162

102

161

101 160

100

159

99 158

98

157

97 156

96

155

95 154

94

153

93 152

92

151

91 150

90

149

89 148

88

147

87 146

86

145

85 144

84

143

83 142

82

141

81 140

80

139

79 138

78

137

77 136

76

135

75 134

74

133

73 132

72

131

71 130

70

129

69 128

68

127

67 126

66

125

65 64 63

30

25

20

15

10

5

62 61 30

25

20

15

10

5

Key

Kiwi Fuchsia Coral Barley Fern Sunshine Apple Black Mocha Bobble stitch

WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYCROCHET 97

FAVE FOLLOW

Pure fantasy

Six reasons to follow the Lydia Viatoris of earthtricks and her magical, complex, rainbow-coloured makes Instagram: @earthtricks Followers: 11.1k followers

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IF YOU LIKE... technicolour rainbows!

Lydia has made several show-stopping dreamcoats, plus a blanket in the same style for her young toddler. #prismpower

IF YOU WANNA... dress like a real-life fairy. Lydia uses pineapple crochet to create ethereal garments – check out her new ebook, Fairy Queen Crochet. #pretty

IF YOU LOVE... lots of texture. Lydia’s hats and jackets feature bobbles, ripples, surface crochet and fuzzy accents – sometimes all in the same project.

IF YOU NEED ... lightweight layers. In addition to cosy coats and hats, you’ll find lacy, airy aprons, skirts, cardigans and more made from fingering-weight yarn.

IF YOU ARE ... a fan of radical selfexpression. Lydia certainly is, and calls her clothing “a vibrant expression of my own creativity”. #BurningMan10philosophy

IF YOU HAVE... a love of yarn. Lydia is a self-confessed yarn hoarder and, as a “very sensory person”, gets lots of joy out of working with beautiful yarns. #tactile

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98 WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYCROCHET

Tr h S Tr n !

Postcards with Love CROCHET ALONG BLAN BLANKET NKET Designed by Eleonora Tully for King Cole

WEEK ONE MAY 23RD 2022 01756 703 670

kingcole.com

enquiries@kingcole.com

AS SEEN IN

NO. 13

W adden

Made with

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3mm

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s E 22 Spread a little magic with the fun makes in this issue. Travel the world with our Globetrotter collection of accessories and homewears, then head to the Iberian coast for the start of our new Talavera Crochet Along.

Plus, whip up some rainbow makes with our bright scarf, cloud bunting and ami’ toy.

s o B k Is U Pr J c i De A o Ra E b .l /Ra S Mp Yr

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s E 21 Flower garden collection, pompom wreath, ami’ Little Bo Peep, bobble jumper, kids’ duckling hat

s E 16 Christmas Eve collection, Nordic-style jumper, ami’ reindeer, bobble throw, lace shawl, Christmas socks.

s E 11 Stylish kitchen makes, freestyle top, unicorn mobile, bloom shawl, chevron bag, motif footstool, flower fairies.

s E 20 Nature-inspired collection, leopardprint jumper, ami’ dragon, kids’ polka-dot rug, plaid cushion.

s E 15 Christmas decorations, landscape jumper, reindeer slippers, gingerbread doll, dog stocking, baby wrap.

s E 10 Stashbuster collection, CAL launch, motif waistcoat, ami’ lamb, summer poncho, rainbow babygrow.

s E 19 Bright Zandra Rhodes collection, bold multitextured cushion, cable jumper, baby blanket, sweater bib.

s E 14 Cabled accessories, zigzag cardi, granny top, ami’ fox, triangles backpack, baby onesie, chunky cushion.

s E 18 Spanish tile-inspired homewares, little black dress, ami’ animal rattles, floor cushion, winter scarf, mug rugs.

s E 13 Foodie makes, cowlback dress, sleeveless tee, ami’ canary, baby pinafore, lace shawl, lavender blanket.

s E 17 Quick-hook collection, triangle top, lion wall hanging, checked blanket, child’s jumper, furry scarf, folk rug.

s E 12 Jewel-toned accessories, summer cardi, bell-sleeved top, ami’ mouse, hexagon blanket, fringed clutch.

s E 09 Lacy accessories, diamond tank top, ami’ caterpillar, blanket and cushion set, motif bag, baby jumper.

Si n Up f R Di i Al s Bs r Pt o An O ’Ll n Ve i S An t Er i Su