theknitter_1822022

There’s no better time to cast on something gorgeous that will put a smile on your face! In this issue you’ll find bright, beautiful designs including Sarah Hatton’s elegant lace and cable jumper on p8, a smart stranded colourwork hat by Juliet Bernard on p56, and a curving lace shawl by Bronagh Miskelly on p37, along with knits for all the family.

Gift ideas

18 patterns for women,

children, pets

Carol Meldrum

Influenced by Scottish themes and textile traditions, Carol is known for her fashionable and playful knitting patterns, and for her range of popular books including Knitlympics and Knitted Icons. For our winter gifts special issue, Carol has designed a chic, short-row shaped poncho. Turn to p63

the home

tank top,

Kirstie McLeod

Operations

Art

Technical

Digital

Helen Spedding

Sarah Clark, Jude Curle

Rachael Prest, Jen Bartlett

Sarah Winsper

Photography Dave Caudery, Kaden Gardener, Gavin Roberts, Steve Sayers, Jesse Wild

Jennie Atkinson, Juliet Bernard, Graeme Bethune, Deb Bramham, Charlotte Foster-Brown, Soraya García, Thelma German, Tricia Gilbert, Sarah Hatton, Carol Ibbetson, Sasha Kagan, Outi Kater, Ashley Knowlton, Carol Meldrum, Pat Menchini, Bronagh Miskelly, Janine Sterland, Ellie Stokeld, Viveka Velupillai, Emma Vining, Rosee Woodland

03330

www.buysubscriptions.com

KNITTING!

Kirstie and The Knitter team

Kater

Outi is a Finnish designer who has lived for many years in Shetland and in Ireland, and draws inspiration from Nordic and Baltic crafts. We have three colourwork projects from Outi this month: men’s mittens on p66, a dog coat on p75, and a lovely cardigan in our special supplement

Sarah honed her skills as part of Rowan’s in-house design team, and she is now an independent designer who creates patterns for knitting magazines and yarn brands. Sarah’s latest pattern for The Knitter is an elegant cable and lace jumper knitted in a luxurious silky yarn, on p8

The

The

7BT. All information contained in this magazine is for information only and is, as far as we are aware, correct at the time of going to press. Our Media Ltd cannot accept any responsibility for errors or inaccuracies in such information. Readers are advised to contact manufacturers and retailers directly with regard to the price of products/services referred to in this magazine. If you submit unsolicited material to us, you automatically grant Our Media Ltd a licence to publish your submission in whole or in part in all editions of the magazine, including licensed editions worldwide and in any physical or digital format throughout the world. Any material you submit is sent at your risk. Although every care is taken, neither Our Media Ltd nor its employees agents or subcontractors shall be liable for loss or damage. We abide by IPSO’s rules and regulations. To give feedback about our magazines, please visit immediate.co.uk, email editorialcomplaints@immediate.co.uk or write to Charlotte Morgan, The Knitter, Our Media Ltd, Eagle House, Bristol BS1 4ST, UK

The copyright in the patterns in this magazine are owned by or licensed to Our Media Ltd and are for readers’ personal use only. Please do not share them online (even for free) or copy them multiple times without our permission. Where selling crafts based on these patterns is permitted (usually only to raise funds for charity), we’ll say so on the page.

PRINTED IN THE UK by William Gibbons. Distributed by Frontline

Sarah Hatton

SARAH HATTON

The pattern uses lace, cables, bobbles and wrapped stitches

Danse du Feu

SARAH HATTON

Danse du Feu

Hatton

patterned

separated by horseshoe cables.

jumper has been knitted in a special blend of mulberry

alpaca from KC Collection,

comes in 10 sophisticated shades.

STITCH PATTERN

CABLE & LACE CHART (written instructions)

Row 1 (RS): P2, *C3B, K1, C3F, P3, (K1, P2) 4 times, K1, P3; rep from * another 2 (2:2:3:3:3) times, C3B, K1, C3F, P2. 37 sts.

Row 2 (WS): K2, P7, *K3, (P1, K2) 4 times, P1, K3, P7; rep from * another 2 (2:2:3:3:3) times, K2.

Row 3: P2, *K7, P3, (K1tbl, P2) 4 times, K1tbl, P3; rep from * another 2 (2:2:3:3:3) times, K7, P2.

Row 4: As Row 2.

Row 5: P2, *C3B, K1, C3F, P3, yo, (K1tbl, P2)

4 times, K1tbl, yo, P3; rep from * another 2 (2:2:3:3:3) times, C3B, K1, C3F, P2.

2 sts inc’d per rep.

Row 6: K2, P7, *K4, (P1, K2) 4 times, P1, K4, P7; rep from * another 2 (2:2:3:3:3) times, K2.

Row 7: P2, *K7, P4, yo, (K1tbl, P2tog) 4 times, K1tbl, yo, P4; rep from * another 2 (2:2:3:3:3) times, K7, P2.

2 sts dec’d per rep.

Row 8: K2, P7, *K5, P1, (K1, P1) 4 times, K5,

P7; rep from * another 2 ( ) times, K2.

Row 9: P2, *C3B, K1, C3F, P5, yo, (K1tbl, P1) 4 times, K1tbl, yo, P5; rep from * another 2 (2:2:3:3:

2 sts inc’d per rep.

Row 10: K2, P7, *K6, (P1, K1) 4 times, P1, K6, P7; rep from * another 2 ( times, K2.

Row 11: P2, *K7, P6, yo, (K1tbl, P3tog) twice, K1tbl, transfer these 5 sts to cn, wrap working yarn twice round these 5 sts anti (counter) clockwise then transfer the sts back to RH needle, yo, P6; rep from * another 2 (2:2:3:3:3) times, K7, P2.

2 sts dec’d per rep.

Row 12: K2, P7, *K7, P5, K7, P7; rep from * another 2 (2:2:3:3:3) times, K2.

Row 13: P2, *C3B, K1, C3F, P3, K13, P3; rep from * another 2 (2:2:3:3:3) times, C3B, K1, C3F, P2.

Row 14: K2, P7, *K3, P13, K3, P7; rep from * another 2 (2:2:3:3:3) times, K2.

Row 15: P2, *K7, P3, K4tog, (yo, K1) 5 times, yo, Sl 3, K1, p3sso, P3; rep from * another 2 (2:2:3:3:3) times, K7, P2.

Row 16: As Row 14.

Row 17: As Row 13.

Row 18: As Row 14.

Row 19: As Row 15.

Row 20: As Row 14.

Row 21: P2, *C3B, K1, C3F, P3, K2, (MB, K3) twice, MB, K2, P3; rep from * another 2 (2:2:3:3:3) times, C3B, K1, C3F, P2.

Row 22: As Row 14.

Row 23: As Row 19.

Row 24: As Row 14.

BACK

Using 3.25mm needles, cast on 115 (129:141:153:165:177) sts.

Row 1 (RS): K1, *P1, K1tbl; rep from * to last 2 sts, P1, K1.

Row 2: P1, *K1, P1; rep from * to end. These 2 rows set rib.

Cont in rib as set until work measures 7 (7:7:8:8:8) cm, ending with WS facing for next row.

Next row: Rib to end, inc 4 (4:4:6:6:6) sts evenly across row. 119 (133:145:159:171:183) sts.

Change to 4mm needles.

Row 1 (RS): K15 (22:28:22:28:34), work as set on row 1 of Chart working 26-st rep 3 (3:3:4:4:4) times, K15 (22:28:22:28:34).

Row 2: P15 (22:28:22:28:34), work as set on row 2 of Chart working 26-st rep 3 (3:3:4:4:4) times, P15 (22:28:22:28:34).

These 2 rows set st st and chart placement. Working 24-row rep as set on Chart throughout, cont for a further 88 (88:88:8892:94) rows, ending on row 18 (18:18:18:22:24) of Chart. Work meas

38 (38:38:39:40:41) cm.

SHAPE ARMHOLES

you are

to work both the increase and

decrease, work the sts as set by the previous row.

5 (6:7:8:10:11) sts at beg of next 2 rows.

(121:131:143:151:161) sts.

NEEDLES & ACCESSORIES

1 pair 3.25mm (UK 10/US 3) knitting needles

1 pair 4mm (UK 8/US 6) knitting needles Cable needle (cn)

holders

TENSION

24 sts and 29 rows to 10cm over st st on 4mm needles.

13 sts sheaf panel meas 7.5cm. 7-st cable meas 2.5cm.

YARN STOCKISTS

KC Collection c/o King Cole 01756 703670 www.kingcole.com Available from Wool Warehouse 0800 505 3300 www.woolwarehouse.co.uk

SPECIAL ABBREVIATIONS

C3B: Slip next 2 sts onto cn and hold at back of work, K1, then K2 from cn.

C3F: Slip next st onto cn and hold at front of work, K2, then K1 from cn.

MB (make bobble): (P1, yo, P1) all into next st, (slip these 3 sts to LH needle, P3) twice, slip these 3 sts to LH needle, P3tog.

Dec 4: Sl 3, K1, p3sso.

K4tog: Knit 4 stitches together. 7-st custom cable: (K1tbl, P2tog) twice, K1tbl, transfer these 5 sts to cn, wrap working yarn twice round these 5 sts counter clockwise. Transfer sts to RH needle.

For general abbreviations, see p89

K on RS; P on WS

P on RS; K on WS C3B

C3F K1tbl

P2tog

7-st custom cable K4tog

Sl 3, K1, p3sso

stitch Repeat

Next row (RS): K2, Sl 1, K1, psso, patt to last 4 sts, K2tog, K2. 2 sts dec’d.

Next row: P2, P2tog, patt to last 4 sts, P2tog tbl, P2. 2 sts dec’d.

These 2 rows set armhole shaping. Dec 1 st at as at each end of next 1 (3:3:5:7:7) rows, then on 2 (3:3:3:3:4) foll RS rows.

99 (105:115:123:127:135) sts.**

Cont to work Chart as set for a further 47 (49:55:57:57:57) rows, ending on row 2 (8:14:18:24:4) of Chart. Armhole meas approx. 19 (21:23½:25:25½:26) cm.

SHAPE SHOULDERS

Note: work sts between cables as they present themselves in the next 4 rows.

Cast off 12 (13:16:17:18:20) sts at beg of next 2 rows.

75 (79:83:89:91:95) sts.

Cast off 13 (14:16:18:19:20) sts at beg of next 2 rows.

49 (51:51:53:53:55) sts. Place these sts on a holder.

FRONT

Work as given for Back to **.

Cont to work Chart as set for a further 21 (21:25:27:27:25) rows, ending on row 24 (4:8:12:18:20) of Chart. Armhole meas approx. 10 (12:13:14½:15:15) cm.

SHAPE FRONT NECK

Next row: Patt 37 (39:45:48:50:54), turn and leave rem sts on a holder. Cont on these sts only for first side of neck.

Work 1 row.

Dec 1 st at neck edge of next 7 rows, 4 ( :5:5: 5:6) foll RS rows, then on foll 4th row. 25 (27:32:35

Cont without shaping for 5 ( ) more rows, ending on row 2 ( Chart.

SHAPE SHOULDER

Next row (RS): ) sts, patt to end. 13 (14:16:18

Work 1 row. Cast off rem sts.

With RS facing, working on rem sts, leave 25 (27:25:27:27:27) sts on a holder for front neck, rejoin yarn to rem sts and patt to end. Work 1 row.

Dec 1 st at neck edge of next 7 rows, 4 (4:5:5: 5:6) foll RS rows then on foll 4th row. 25 (27:32:35:37:40) sts.

Cont without shaping for 4 (6:6:6:6:6) more rows, ending on a row 1 (7:13:17:23:3) of Chart.

SHAPE SHOULDER

Next row (WS): Cast off 12 (13:16:17:18:20) sts, patt to end. 13 (14:16:18:19:20) sts. Work 1 row. Cast off rem sts.

SLEEVES

(both alike)

Using 3.25mm needles, cast on 55 (57:59:61:61:63) sts.

Work 4cm in rib as set on Back, ending with WS facing for next row.

Next row: Rib to end, inc 2 sts evenly across row. 57 (59:61:63:63:65) sts.

Cha nge to 4mm needles.

Row 1 (RS): K10 (11:12:13:13:14), work next 37 sts as set on row 1 of Chart, K10 (11:12:13:13:14).

Row 2: P10 (11:12:13:13:14), work next 37 sts as set on row 2 of Chart, P10 (11:12:13:13:14). These 2 rows set st st and chart placement. Working 24-row rep as set on chart throughout, inc 1 st at each end of next and 12 (6:17:5:9:13) foll 8th (6th:6th:4th:4th: 4th) rows, then on the 1 (9:1:15:13:10) foll 10th (8th:8th:6th:6th:6th) rows. 85 (91:99:105:109:113) sts.

Cont without shaping for a further 13 (11:11:11:7:9) rows, ending on row 2 (2:4:4:4:4) of Chart. Sleeve meas approx. 46 (46:47:47:47:47) cm.

SHAPE SLEEVE TOP

Cast off 5 (6:7:8:10:11) sts at beg of next 2 rows. 75 (79:85:89:89:91) sts. Dec 1 st at each end of next 11 (11:13:15:13:15) rows, 7 (9:9:8:9:9) foll RS rows, 1 (1:2:3:4:3) foll 4th row, 3 foll RS rows, then on 3 foll rows. 25 sts.

Cast off 4 sts at beg of next 2 rows. Cast off rem 17 sts.

MAKING UP

Join right shoulder seam.

NECKBAND

With RS facing and using 3.25mm needles, pick up and knit 24 (24:26:26:26:28) sts down left side of neck, knit across 25 (27:25: 27:27:27) sts left on a holder at front neck, pick up and knit 23 (23:25:25:25:27) sts up right side of neck and knit across 49 (51:51: 53:53:55) sts from back neck holder. 121 (125:127:131:131:137) sts.

Beg with 2nd row, work 3.5cm in rib as set on Back, ending with RS facing for next row. Cast off in rib.

FINISHING

Join left shoulder and neckband seam. Sew in sleeves, easing fabric to fit. Join side and sleeve seams.

Pin out to measurements given above, cover with damp cloths and leave until dry, following any yarn care instructions on the ball band.

The silk-alpaca yarn gives a smooth, light and draping fabric

…ideas, websites, patterns, events, inspiration and more!

TWISTS & TURNS

Kate Davies’ brand-new pattern collection, Sark, is a fascinating exploration of twisted stitch patterns, and its 12 projects use subtle textures and contemporary shapes to create truly beautiful pieces of knitwear.

Intricately patterned knits include a cropped cardigan with balloon sleeves, jumpers with neat textured yokes, and a fitted top-down cardigan with hourglass cables. There are smaller projects, too, such as a shawl, slippers, armwarmers, and the smart ‘Easwas’ hat. £22; www.shopkdd.com

Autumn joy Nellie and Eve has added lovely new plant-dyed colours to its West Country DK wool range £11 per 50g/116m; www.nellieandeve.com

KNITTERS’ TREATS

Thread and Maple is a Canadian company which produces beautiful, handmade leather knitting accessories, and their products are available through Welsh yarn store FelinFach. The range includes the practical, roomy Boundless Bag (pictured below), the Leather Necessaire project bag, and the Notions Clutch, a smart storage case which contains scissors, a tape measure and stitch markers, and has pockets for all your essentials. www.felinfach.com

The work of Kaffe Fassett is presented in a sumptuous new book by Dennis Nothdruft. Showcasing Kaffe’s incredible use of colour in his knitting, quilting and textile designs, the book is a feast for the eye, while interviews and essays explore his life and legacy. £30; Yale University Press

Kate’s book has 12 projects using elegant twisted stitch patterns

Knitwear: Chanel to Westwood

at Dovecot Studios, Edinburgh

Explore 100 years of knitting history at the wonderful new exhibition in Edinburgh, ‘Knitwear: Chanel to Westwood’. The exhibition presents more than 150 knitted items charting knitwear fashions over the past 100 years, and includes pieces from influential designers including Coco Chanel, Vivienne Westwood, Sonia Rykiel, Missoni and Comme des Garçons.

An entire section is dedicated to Shetland’s Fair Isle jumpers, while other iconic items

include 1930s woollen swimwear, post-war Hollywood-inspired knits, and Bill Gibb’s influential styles of the 1970s.

Contemporary Scottish design will also be showcased, such as the work of designer Di Gilpin, whose hand-knits and collaborations with La Fetiche will be on display.

The exhibition runs from 15 October until 11 March 2023, and will be held at Dovecot Studios on Edinburgh’s Infirmary Street. Tickets £10.50; www.dovecotstudios.com

Our pick of the best pattern collections and e-books

HAPPY KNITTER VARIETY PUZZLES

by Lindsay Conner

An ideal stocking-filler gift for any knitter, this book will keep you entertained while you’re not knitting!

It’s filled with crosswords, logic puzzles, word searches, anagrams and other puzzles, all with a knitting theme - there are more than 60 to enjoy, and the book has a large-print format. Perfect for keeping in your knitting bag for those quiet moments. £8.99, Search Press

10,000 KNITTED HATS by Jo Allport

This ingenious book from Jo Allport enables you to ‘build’ your own perfect hat from the mix-andmatch options. It uses a spiral-bound, flip-page format with photos and instructions for different hat brims, bodies and crowns which can be combined in a total of 10,626 unique ways! There’s also a section offering embellishment ideas to finish your hat. £17.99, GMC Publications

SALTWATER SOCKS, CAPS, MITTENS & MORE

by Christine LeGrow & Shirley A. Scott

The latest in the Saltwater series brings us colourful accessories based on the knitting traditions of Newfoundland. The book has more than 25 patterns for all the family, including traditional ‘vamp’ socks, contemporary socks using colour and texture, practical hats, gloves, mittens, legwarmers and scarves. Photos, stories and anecdotes showcase the culture and landscapes of this Canadian province. £27, Boulder Books

The Alpaca Collection

by Lisa Richardson

Celebrating Rowan’s Alpaca Classic and Alpaca Soft DK yarns, this new book of patterns from Lisa Richardson brings us wonderfully soft knits for autumn and winter. Among Lisa’s designs are a couple of modern twinsets - a cropped cable cardigan with a matching top, and a V-neck cardigan and crewneck vest decorated with bobbles and embroidered details.

Bright colourwork designs include a raglan Fair Isle jumper, and a top-down sweater which has a diamond Fair Isle yoke and a delicately cabled body. ‘Patti’ can be knitted as a generously sized wrap or as a poncho, and features stripes of colour and texture.

For snuggly warmth, there’s a long-line, loose-fitting jumper with a little collar, and a fabulous colourwork ‘coatigan’ with a shawl collar, double-breasted button fastening and pockets. Quick-knit projects include a twisted rib bobble hat, a textured cowl, and a cable and lace cowl with a picot trim. To order a copy for £9.95 or to find your nearest stockist, visit www.knitrowan.com

WRAP UP WARM Quick-knit projects in aran and chunky yarns

WILDWOOD CHUNKY COAT by King Cole

PURLS OF WISDOM by The Fibre Co.

MINK TUNIC by Quail Studio

Price

Modern textures from Debbie Bliss

Debbie Bliss has been playing with cables and ribs for her latest collection of women’s projects for Lovecrafts. Using her plump and cosy Cashmerino Aran yarn, she has created four sweaters with a contemporary look.

Among the designs is a short-sleeved top with dramatic sideways-knitted cables and a deep scoop neckline. Also featuring chunky cables is a roll-neck sweater with waist shaping and a cropped shape for a neat fit.

Debbie’s ‘Rib Yoke Sweater’ has a much more relaxed shape, and combines ribbing and moss stitch. There’s also a ribbed sleeveless rollneck, and all the patterns are sized to fit busts of 30in to 56in.

Downloadable PDF patterns cost £3.50 each from www.lovecrafts.com

John Arbon’s popular Yarnadelic 4ply has been joined by a new worsted version. Spun from Falklands Corriedale, it has a beautiful woolly feel, and comes in 18 spectacular colours. £19 per 100g from www.jarbon.com

www.johnsmedley.com

Helen Spedding, operations editor

HELPING HANDS

Knitting can sometimes take its toll on your hands - so rehydrate your dry skin with Lotil, a non-greasy, unscented and easily absorbed hand cream that also has antiseptic properties. Lotil is stocked at independent pharmacies and online, and two of our readers can win a bundle of moisturising hand cream, foot cream and lip balm worth £20.50 each.

To enter our giveaway, head online to: www.gathered.how/competitions/ the-knitter-competitions/ For the range, visit www.lotil.co.uk

This colourwork hat is called ‘Raineach’, and it was designed by Juliet Bernard after her visit to the Isle of Skye - the pattern appeared in The Knitter issue 148. Juliet’s original design was knitted in a naturally dyed wool from the Skye yarn company Shilasdair, using a fresh green colour for the frond-like patterning.

My version, with its russet motifs, reminds me of bracken in the autumn. I used Northern Yarn’s Methera wool (one of my favourite yarns) - one skein in undyed Natural Grey, and one skein in the special Gingerbread colourway which was hand-dyed by RiverKnits for last year’s Gingerbread Festive Box. This was my Christmas present to myself, and was filled with yarn, stitch markers, a candle, gingerbread, and Jersey milk soap - such a nice thing to open on Christmas morning!

I’ve got quite a bit of yarn left over, so I’m going to make some matching armwarmers to go with my hat.

Brit star Iconic clothing brand John Smedley has launched a range of hand-knit British wool sweaters

© JOHN SMEDLEY

Win a fantastic knitting bundle!

This month’s special prize pile includes two fascinating pattern books for one lucky winner to enjoy. Geometric Knit Blankets by Margaret Holzmann contains more than 30 innovative, colourful blanket designs, while Art Deco Knits by Jemima Bicknell is filled with women’s knits inspired by the fashions of the 1920s and ’30s. Plus, we’ve included a selection of yarns,

including Louisa Harding Luci, Rowan Felted Tweed, Moomin x Novita Muumit, Belinda Harris-Reid Merry O, Nellie & Eve 100% Welsh Wool, and Mahoodly Aran British BFL.

giveaway online at: www.gathered.how/competitions/ the-knitter-competitions/

DIARY DATES

Events and workshops to inspire your knitting

29-30 October Glasgow Glasgow School of Yarn Festival www.glasgowschoolofyarn.co.uk

4 November Warrington Professional Finishing with Sarah Hatton www.blacksheepwools.com 01925 764231

5-6 November Newton Abbot Stitch Fest South West www.stitchfest.co.uk 07919 178701

7-10 November Online Cambridge Yarn Festival www.cambridgeyarnfestival.co.uk

13 November Faversham Top Down Sweaters www.theyarndispensary.co.uk 01795 533812

13 November London Fixing Mistakes: learn to solve your knitting problems www.wildandwoollyshop.co.uk 020 89855231

17-20 November Harrogate The Knitting & Stitching Show www.theknittingandstitchingshow.com/ harrogate

VIP SUBSCRIBERS!

Every

Scrumptious, the

an impressively soft yet

It’s available in an incredible choice of 80

This

also has a

Scrumptious. www.scheepjes.com

WINNERS

, by Louise Crowther.

ISSUE!

19 November Nottingham Professional Finishing with Debbie Abrahams www.yarnloft.co.uk 07825 702433

19 November Warrington Festive Fair Isle Slippers with Carol Meldrum www.blacksheepwools.com 01925 764231

19 November Weedon Bec, Northants Yarn Dyeing with RiverKnits www.riverknits.uk 01327 342273

24 November Bovey Tracey Brioche Improvers with Anniken Allis www.spinayarndevon.co.uk 01626 836203

24 November Faversham Level Up Your Lace with Bronagh Miskelly www.theyarndispensary.co.uk 01795 533812

12-26 January India Knit for Peace Mysore Knitting Holiday with Jane Crowfoot www.knitforpeace.org.uk 020 7794 9835

Tell us about your event! theknitter@immediate.co.uk

Rothesay

MARY HENDERSON

MARY HENDERSON

Rothesay

MARY HENDERSON has selected a range of classic Fair Isle colourwork motifs for her tam, armwarmers and cowl set. It is knitted in Marie Wallin’s British Breeds yarn - a mix of Bluefaced Leicester, Exmoor Horn, Wensleydale and Zwartbles wool. “British Breeds is a lovely, lovely wool to knit with, and soft enough to wear next to your skin,” says Mary. “The colours blend so well together for true muted beauty. This palette has an autumnal feel to it: ripe berries and flower’s last bloom.”

TAM

Using 3mm DPNs or circular needles, 40cm long, yarn F and the long-tail method, cast on 120 sts. Pm and join to work in the round, taking care not to twist sts.

Work Chart A once. Next rnd (inc): Using yarn F, (K2, M1) to end of rnd. 180 sts.

Change to 3.25mm DPNs or circular needles, 40cm long.

Work rnds 1-44 of Chart B.

Keeping chart correct throughout, dec as foll, changing to DPNs if and when necessary:

Rnd 45 (dec): Working rnd 45 of Chart B and keeping colour patt aligned *K3, K2tog; rep from * to end. 144 sts.

Work rnds 46-53 of Chart B, keeping colour patt correct.

SIZE Tam

To fit head circumference: 56-61cm (22-24in)

Actual circumference at brim: 43cm (17in)

Actual circumference at widest point: 64cm (25in)

Length, crown to hem: 26½cm (10½in)

Cowl

Circumference: 71cm (28in)

Circumference at cast-off edge: 74cm (29in)

Length: 21cm (8¼in)

Armwarmers

To fit palm circumference: 19-22cm (7½-8½in)

Actual palm circumference: 21½cm (8½in)

Length: 28cm (11in)

Corrugated ribbing adds a traditional touch to the design

YARN

Marie Wallin British Breeds (4ply weight;

100% wool; 85m/93yds per 25g ball)

A Lime Flower; 2 x 25g balls

B Mulberry; 2 x 25g balls

C Rose; 1 x 25g ball

D Foxglove; 2 x 25g balls

E Quince; 2 x 25g balls

F Dark Apple; 1 x 25g ball

G Woad; 1 x 25g ball

YARN STOCKISTS

Marie Wallin www.mariewallin.com

NEEDLES & ACCESSORIES

Tam

Set of 3mm (UK 11/US 2-3) double-pointed needles (DPNs), or circular needles, 40cm long

Set of 3.25mm (UK 10/US 3) DPNs, or circular needles, 40cm long

A 3.5mm (UK 10-9/US 4) DPN for i-cord cast-off

Cowl

3mm (UK 11/US 2-3) circular needles, 60cm long

3.25mm (UK 10/US 3) circular needles, 60cm long

3.5mm (UK 10-9/US 4) circular needles, 60cm long

A 3.5mm (UK 10-9/US 4) double-pointed needle (DPN) for i-cord cast-off

Armwarmers

Set of 2.75mm (UK 12/US 2) double-pointed needles (DPNs), or circular needles, 60cm long, for Magic Loop method

Set of 3.25mm (UK 10/US 3) DPNs, or circular needles, 60cm long, for Magic Loop method

Set of 3.5mm (UK 10-9/US 4) DPNs, or circular needles, 60cm long, for Magic Loop method

A 3.5mm (UK 10-9/US 4) DPN for i-cord cast-off

Stitch markers to mark out pattern (optional) Lockable marker for beginning of round

TENSION

27 sts and 32 rnds to 10cm over Chart B and D on 3.25mm needles.

28 sts and 32 rnds to 10cm over Chart A on 3mm needles (brim on Tam).

24 sts and 28 rnds to 10cm over Chart C on 3.5mm needles (finishing on Cowl and armwarmers).

32 sts and 36 rnds to 10cm over Chart C on 2.75mm needles (fingertips on armwarmers).

Rnd 54: Working rnd 54 of Chart B, and keeping colour patt aligned *K2, K2tog; rep from * to end. 108 sts.

Rnds 55-56: Work rnds 55-56 of Chart B.

Rnd 57: Working rnd 57 of Chart B and keeping colour patt aligned *K1, K2tog; rep from * to end. 72 sts.

Rnds 58-61: Work rnds 58-61 of Chart B.

Rnd 62: Using yarn F, *K2tog; rep from * to end. 36 sts.

Cut all yarns and cont in yarn B only.

Rnd 63: *S2kpo; rep from * to end. 18 sts.

Rnd 64: Knit.

Rnd 65: *K2tog; rep from * to end. 9 sts.

Cut yarn, leaving a 5cm yarn tail. Pull tail through sts to fasten off.

FINISHING

Using 3.25mm DPNs or circular needles, 40cm long, and yarn C, with RS facing, pick up and knit 128 sts along cast-on edge.

Using a 3.5mm DPN, work an i-cord cast-off as foll:

Cast on 1 st using the cable cast-on method, K1, K2tog tbl, *slip 2 sts just worked back

onto LH needle, K1, K2tog tbl (pulling yarn tight across back of i-cord); rep from * until 3 sts remain. K1, K2tog, cast off. Cut yarn, leaving a 5cm tail. Use tail to connect beginning and end of i-cord.

Weave in ends. Soak tam in water for 20 minutes, following any yarn care instructions on the ball band, then roll in a towel to remove excess moisture. Gently stretch tam over a 25cm plate, propping this up on top of a large mug. Allow tam to dry fully on the plate before removing.

COWL

Using 3mm circular needles, 60cm long, yarn C and the long-tail method, cast on 192 sts.

Pm and join to work in the round, taking care not to twist sts.

Work Chart C once.

Change to 3.25mm circular needles, 60cm long.

Work rnds 1-43 of Chart D.

Change to 3.5mm circular needles, 60cm long.

Work rnds 44- 51 of Chart D.

Work Chart C once.

Knit 1 rnd in yarn C.

Using a 3.5mm DPN and yarn C, work i-cord cast-off as for Tam.

FINISHING

Using 3mm circular needles and yarn C, pick up and knit 192 sts around the cast-on edge.

Knit 1 rnd in yarn C.

Using a 3.25mm DPN and yarn C, work i-cord cast-off as for cast-off edge.

Weave in ends and gently block to measurements, following any yarn care instructions on the ball band.

ARMWARMERS (both alike)

Using 2.75mm DPNs or circular needles, 60cm long, yarn F, and the long-tail method, cast on 60 sts.

Pm and join to work in the round, taking care not to twist sts.

Work Chart C once.

Change to 3.25mm needles.

Work rnds 1-42 of Chart D.

Work rnds 23-31 of Chart D.

Work rnds 10-21 of Chart D.

Change to 3.5mm needles. Work rnds 1-9 of Chart D.

Work Chart C.

Knit 1 rnd in yarn C.

Using a 3.5mm DPN, work i-cord cast-off as for Tam and Cowl.

FINISHING

Using 3mm needles and yarn C, pick up and knit 60 sts around the cast-on edge. Knit 1 rnd in yarn C.

Using a 3.25mm DPN and yarn C, work i-cord cast-off as for cast-off edge.

Weave in ends. Gently block to measurements, following any yarn care instructions on the ball band.

YARN IS A LOVELY BLEND OF WOOL FROM FOUR DIFFERENT BRITISH SHEEP BREEDS

Scarf

VIVEKA VELUPILLAI

“SOLDIAN IS a reef in the sound between Lerwick and Bressay, and it is also an important placename on land throughout Shetland,” explains Viveka Velupillai of Uradale Yarns. “This scarf is a celebration of the beauty of simplicity, and features our two marled undyed colours. Using simple knit, purl and slip stitches, it achieves an elegance in texture and feel.” Viveka’s scarf has been designed to use Uradale’s Jumper Weight (4ply) yarn; it can also be knitted in a DK-weight yarn, although this will affect the size and dimensions of the scarf.

PATTERN NOTE

The colour changes are always made on RS rows (even-numbered rows). You can alter the colour sequence in any way you like. Our sample uses the following sequence:

Rows 25-48: Yarn A.

Rows 49-60: Yarn B. Rows 61-84: Yarn A. Rows 85-210: Yarn B.

Rows 211-426: Yarn A. Rows 427-552: Yarn B. Rows 553-576: Yarn A. Rows 577-588: Yarn B. Rows 589-612: Yarn A.

SCARF

Using 3.25mm needles and yarn A, loosely cast on 48 sts.

BOTTOM EDGE

Note: The first stitch in each row is a selvedge stitch, meaning that each row starts with Sl 1.

Using yarn A: Row 1: Knit. Row 2: *Sl 1, K1; rep from * to end. Rows 3-24: Repeat Rows 1-2.

BODY

Now work in colour sequence, following the suggested stripe sequence given above or using your own sequence:

Row 25: Purl.

Row 26: *Sl 1, K1; rep from * to end. Repeat Rows 25-26 until the desired length of the scarf is achieved.

TOP EDGE

Repeat Rows 1-24 as for Bottom Edge. Cast off using a stretchy cast-off method of your choice.

FINISHING

Weave in ends. Block scarf by washing gently (either handwash or using a wool wash machine program), using wool wash and following any yarn care instructions on the ball band. Squeeze but do not wring out the excess water, then wrap in a towel and press to gently remove as much water as possible. Dry flat and leave to completely dry before unpinning.

SIZE

160cm (63in) long x 16cm (6¼in) wide

YARN

Uradale Yarns Jumper Weight (4ply weight; 100% organic Shetland wool; 173m/189yds per 50g ball)

A Bismer; 2 x 50g balls

B Bark; 2 x 50g balls

NEEDLES & ACCESSORIES

3.25mm (UK 10/US 3) circular needles, 60cm long

TENSION

29 sts and 32 rows to 10cm over patt on 3.25mm needles

YARN STOCKISTS

Uradale Yarns 07880 704606 www.uradale.com

For general abbreviations, see p89

Discover more patterns and kits designed by Viveka Velupillai using Uradale’s organic Shetland yarns by visiting www.uradale.com

THE SCARF USES A 4PLY YARN, BUT IT CAN ALSO BE KNITTED IN A DK-WEIGHT

The scarf uses a slip stitch pattern

The yarn is produced by Ronnie Eunson on Shetland

Shade pictured Sake

Tension

This

into a

it a

Chloé Elizabeth Birch

The word madara means ‘uneven’ in Japanese, and this name reflects the uneven mix of fibres and colours in this yarn from Noro. Its thick-and-thin nature and sprinkles of multiple colours give a fabric with lots of visual interest. The yarn knits up to a worsted weight, and it has a lovely soft feel; it would be an interesting choice for stocking stitch projects.

G\Hê

COLOURWORKS

Chunky Baby Alpaca

Shade pictured Blueberry Crush

Skein weight/length 50g/50m

Needle size 6mm (UK 4/US 10)

Tension Approx. 14 sts and 20 rows to 10cm

Fibre content 100% baby alpaca

Care Hand wash RRP £8.50

Contact www.colour-works.co.uk 07814 065719

Gorgeously soft to knit with, this Chunky Baby Alpaca yarn is a tactile delight as it flows through the fingers. It’s a yarn you’ll want to wear next to the skin, as it’s kitten-soft with a delicate haze - choose it for cowls, scarves and chunky sweater projects. Hand-dyer Ginette MacDonald uses natural dye materials to produce her beautiful, variegated tones.

JUNIPER MOON FARM Moonshine

Shade pictured Mustard (56)

Skein weight/length 100g/180m

Needle size 4.5-5.5mm (UK 7-5/US 7-9)

Tension 16-20 sts to 10cm

Fibre content 40% alpaca, 40% wool, 20% organic silk

Care Hand wash RRP £16

Contact www.knittingfever.com

The single ply nature of this aran-weight yarn from Juniper Moon Farm brings a brushed, slightly hazy look to the knitted fabric. As the name suggests, the yarn has a subtle lustre which comes courtesy of the silk content, while Moonshine also offers good stitch definition and an excellent drape. The colour palette is packed with elegant shades.

CASCADE YARNS

ReFine

Shade pictured Denim (08)

Ball weight/length 100g/460m

Needle size 2.25-3.25mm (UK 13-10/US 1-3)

Tension 28-32 sts to 10cm

Fibre content 75% recycled superwash Merino wool, 20% recyled nylon, 5% recycled viscose

Care Hand wash RRP £8.99

Contact www.cascadeyarns.com

This 4ply-weight yarn is very enjoyable to knit with, and offers neat, well defined stitches, a smooth, soft fabric, and a fantastic drape. It has excellent green credentials, too, as it is spun with 100% recycled fibres. The shade range includes attractive warm colours and classic neutrals. ReFine would be ideal for lightweight cardigans and sweaters.

Donegal Rich Tweed

Shade pictured Clarcam

Skein weight/length 100g/225m

Needle size 4mm (UK 8/US 6)

Tension 22 sts and 28 rows to 10cm

Fibre content 87% wool, 13% Donegal nep

Care Hand wash RRP £22.50

Contact www.knitmcintosh.com

Spun in Peru and hand-dyed in London, this DK-weight yarn is a lovely choice for autumn and winter sweaters. There’s a range of 11 semi-solid shades, each packed with cheerful flecks of colour and inspired by the landscapes of Northern Ireland. It’s a treat to knit with, and provides a warming fabric. Each skein comes with a McIntosh cotton bag and sew-on care label.

MC INTOSH

Great reads

Create charming gifts for friends and family with this collection of accessories, garments and homewares

KNITTED GIFTS FOR ALL SEASONS

by Wendy Bernard

THIS NEW book from Wendy Bernard will be a great source of inspiration for festive gift knitting as we prepare for the upcoming Christmas season, but it also offers ideas for year-round presents for all the family. The 30 projects range from small stashbuster knits and accessories to larger garments; the patterns are organised by season, but of course all the projects can be knitted at any time of the year.

Projects for babies include a vintage-style romper in a textured box stitch, and a pair of sweet booties inspired by jelly beans. Children will love the ‘Mermaid Tail Lap Blanket’ when curled up on the sofa in front of a favourite movie, as well as the cute hat with bunny ears. Children’s garments include a collared sweater for ages one to 12 years, and a hooded poncho complete with little fox ears.

The choice of hat projects includes a beanie with colourwork bands, a chic beret called ‘Paris in Winter’, and a modern take on the traditional fishermen’s kep. There’s a mohair lace scarf, a nautical striped cotton cowl, lightweight summer slippers,

and a pair of slouchy bedsocks in a textured rib pattern called ‘thermal stitch’.

Mittens are always a popular gift, and Wendy provides a striped pattern for children, women and men in eight sizes, as well as a super-cosy thrummed design in four sizes from child to adult.

Looking to knit someone a garment they will enjoy wearing? Ideas include a colourwork yoked pullover in sizes 34in-62in, a top-down T-shirt with a lacy yoke in sizes 28in-52in, and a youthful racerback tank top with spaghetti straps. There’s also a yoked sweater with simple colourwork bands, which is easily adaptable for different colour palettes and is sized to fit 21in chests up to 51in.

There are homeware knits here, too, which include a cabled table runner, a market bag worked in a cotton-linen yarn, ‘peppermint candy’ short-row coasters, a Christmas tree skirt, and knitted pumpkins to decorate your autumn home. Wendy’s ‘recipe’ for a diagonal striped blanket can be worked to any size you want, depending on how much yarn you have.

Wendy also uses the felting technique for her autumnal felt ball garland and winter wreath, and provides a photographic walk-through on making felted balls.

Knitted Gifts for All Seasons is published by Abrams. Order a copy for £17.99 from www.abramsandchronicle. co.uk

BRONAGH MISKELLY

Marram

SIZE

Wingspan: 162cm (63¾in)

Depth: 70cm (27½in)

All measurements are given after blocking.

YARN

The Fibre Co Cumbria Fingering (4ply weight; 60% Merino wool, 30% Masham wool, 10% mohair; 300m/328yds per 100g skein)

Catbells; 2 x 100g skeins

Note: This shawl uses up two complete skeins. Do not cast off your tension swatch, so that you can unravel it and reuse the yarn.

NEEDLES & ACCESSORIES

3.5mm (UK 10-9/US 4) circular needles, at least 80cm long

3mm (UK 11/US 2-3) circular needles, for start of edging

4mm (UK 8/US G/6) crochet hook

Waste cotton yarn

Stitch markers

TENSION

24 sts and 30 rows to 10cm over stocking stitch using 3.5mm needles before blocking

YARN STOCKISTS

The Fibre Co 017687 79 292 www.thefibreco.com

THIS SHAWL is worked in segments using short-row shaping to create a semi-circle. It pairs a section of stocking stitch with a deep band of leafy lace and a pointed lace edging. The project begins with a long provisional cast-on, which is later undone and the stitches picked up to work a picot cast-off around the upper edge. Bronagh Miskelly’s design is knitted in The Fibre Co.’s Cumbria Fingering, a lovely blend of mohair, Merino and Masham wool, which comes in 21 heathered shades.

PATTERN NOTES

The shawl is worked flat in rows, using circular needles to accommodate the large number of stitches.

Change balls at the end of a short-row segment.

LEAF LACE PATTERN

(also shown on chart)

Row 1 (RS): K1, yo, SSK, (K1, yo, SSK, yo, K3, s2kpo, K3, yo, K2tog, yo) twice, (K1, yo, SSK) twice, (yo, SSK) twice, K1. 42 sts.

Row 2 (WS): Sl 1 wyif, P1, (yo, SSP) twice, yo, P2, yo, P2tog, P29, yo, P2tog, P1. 43 sts.

Row 3: K1, yo, SSK, (K2, yo, SSK, yo, K2, s2kpo, K2, yo, K2tog, yo, K1) twice, K1, yo, SSK, K3, (yo, SSK) twice, yo, K2. 44 sts.

Row 4: Sl 1 wyif, P1, (yo, SSP) twice, yo, P4, yo, P2tog, P29, yo, P2tog, P1. 45 sts.

Row 5: K1, yo, SSK, (K3, yo, SSK, yo, K1, s2kpo, K1, yo, K2tog, yo, K2) twice, K1, yo, SSK, K5, (yo, SSK) twice, yo, K2. 46 sts.

Row 6: Sl 1 wyif, P1, (yo, SSP) twice, yo, P2, yo, SSP, P2, yo, P2tog, P29, yo, P2tog, P1. 47 sts.

Row 7: K1, yo, SSK, (K4, yo, SSK, yo, s2kpo,

yo, K2tog, yo, K3) twice, K1, yo, SSK, K7, (yo, SSK) twice, yo, K2. 48 sts.

Row 8: Sl 1 wyif, P1, (yo, SSP) twice, yo, P2, (yo, SSP) twice, P2, yo, P2tog, P29, yo, P2tog, P1. 49 sts.

Row 9: K1, yo, SSK, (K5, yo, K1, s2kpo, K1, yo, K4) twice, K1, yo, SSK, K9, (yo, SSK) twice, yo, K2. 50 sts.

Row 10: Sl 1 wyif, P1, (yo, SSP) twice, yo, P2, (yo, SSP) 3 times, P2, yo, P2tog, P29, yo, P2tog, P1. 51 sts.

Row 11: K1, yo, SSK, (K6, yo, s2kpo, yo, K5) twice, K1, yo, SSK, K11, (yo, SSK) twice, yo, K2. 52 sts.

Row 12: Sl 1 wyif, P1, (yo, SSP) twice, yo, P2, (yo, SSP) 4 times, P2, yo, P2tog, P29, yo, P2tog, P1. 53 sts.

Row 13: K1, yo, SSK twice, K3, yo, K2tog, yo, K1, yo, SSK, yo, K3, s2kpo, K3, yo, K2tog, yo, K1, yo, SSK, yo, K3, K2tog, yo, SSK, K11, (K2tog, yo) 3 times, K2.

Row 14: Sl 1 wyif, (P2tog, yo) 3 times, P2tog, P2, (yo, SSP) 3 times, P2, yo, P2tog, P29, yo, P2tog, P1. 52 sts.

Row 15: K1, yo, SSK twice, K2, yo, K2tog, yo, K3, yo, SSK, yo, K2, s2kpo, K2, yo, K2tog, yo, K3, yo, SSK, yo, K2, K2tog, yo, SSK, K9, (K2tog, yo) 3 times, K2tog, K1. 51 sts.

Row 16: Sl 1 wyif, (P2tog, yo) 3 times, P2tog, P2, (yo, SSP) twice, P2, yo, P2tog, P29, yo, P2tog, P1. 50 sts.

Row 17: K1, yo, SSK twice, K1, yo, K2tog, yo, K5, yo, SSK, yo, K1, s2kpo, K1, yo, K2tog, yo, K5, yo, SSK, yo, K1, K2tog, yo, SSK, K7, (K2tog, yo) 3 times, K2tog, K1. 49 sts.

Row 18: Sl 1 wyif, (P2tog, yo) 3 times, P2tog, P2, yo, SSP, P2, yo, P2tog, P29, yo, P2tog, P1. 48 sts.

Row 19: K1, yo, SSK twice, yo, K2tog, yo,

K7, yo, SSK, yo, s2kpo, yo, K2tog, yo, K7, yo, SSK, yo, K2tog, yo, SSK, K5, (K2tog, yo) 3 times, K2tog, K1. 47 sts.

Row 20: Sl 1 wyif, (P2tog, yo) 3 times, P2tog, P4, yo, P2tog, P29, yo, P2tog, P1. 46 sts.

Row 21: K1, yo, SSK twice, K1, yo, K9, yo, K1, s2kpo, K1, yo, K9, yo, K1, K2tog, yo, SSK, K3, (K2tog, yo) 3 times, K2tog, K1. 45 sts.

Row 22: Sl 1 wyif, (P2tog, yo) 3 times, P2tog, P2, yo, P2tog, P29, yo, P2tog, P1. 44 sts.

Row 23: K1, yo, SSK twice, yo, K11, yo, s2kpo, yo, K11, yo, K2tog, yo, SSK, K1, (K2tog, yo) 3 times, K2tog, K1. 43 sts.

Row 24: Sl 1 wyif, (P2tog, yo) 4 times, P2tog, P29, yo, P2tog, P1. 42 sts.

SHAWL

Using waste yarn and 4mm crochet hook, make a chain of 114 sts. Place the back loop from each chain on to 3.5mm circular needles. 114 sts. Break waste yarn and join in main yarn.

Purl 1 row.

START SHAWL SHAPING AND LEAF LACE PATTERN

Row 1 (RS): K72, pm, work row 1 of Leaf Lace Pattern. 114 sts.

Row 2 (WS): Work row 2 of Leaf Lace Pattern to mrk, slm, P69, w&t.

Row 3: K to mrk, slm, work row 3 of Leaf Lace Pattern to end.

Row 4: Work Leaf Lace Pattern to mrk, slm, P to 3 sts before wrapped st, w&t.

Rows 3 and 4 set the position of the Leaf Lace Pattern and segment shaping.

SPECIAL ABBREVIATIONS

S2kpo:

Rows 5-47: Cont working as set, turning 3 sts before last w&t each time, until you have worked a full Leaf Lace Pattern repeat, then work Rows 1-23 of Leaf Lace Pattern once more.

Row 48 (WS): Work row 24 of Leaf Lace Pattern to mrk, slm, purl to end, picking up and working wrap loops with the wrapped stitch (wrap loop should be on WS).

rows 1-48 another 7 times. Break yarn, leaving all 114 sts on needle.

EDGING

Undo the provisional cast-on one stitch at a time, sliding the stitches released on to 3mm circular needles.

With RS facing, using 3.25mm circular needles, rejoin yarn and knit across 113 sts from provisional cast-on, pick up and knit 10 sts across row ends at centre of shawl, knit across 114 sts from end of shawl. 237 sts.

Row 1 (WS): Purl to end Picot cast-off: K3, *slip 1 st to LH needle, cast on 2 sts, cast off 5 sts; rep from * to end.

FINISHING

Block shawl to finished measurements, pinning out to a semi-circular shape, and following any yarn care instructions on the ball band. Weave in ends.

From sheep to sweater

LOOPY EWES, the brand run by Katie Allen, offers fully traceable knitwear - literally from sheep to sweater! As well as designing and making her hand-crafted product range, Katie also farms the sheep whose wool is used to make each product.

Katie’s flock of rare-breed sheep graze on an organic farm in the Cotswolds. She and her husband farm with a regenerative philosophy, where they aim to encourage wildlife habitats and improve soil health as well as looking after the environment. The

wool is spun by the Natural Fibre Company, then it is dyed organically before being used to produce machine-knitted garments, homewares and accessories which Katie designs and makes herself.

We chatted with Katie to find out what life is like as a shepherd, and why she is so committed to promoting British wool.

How did you first come to be involved in wool production?

“I bought my first sheep about ten or eleven years ago; I was starting an organic smallholding and really wanted sheep to be part of that story - both for their meat and

wool. After speaking to local farmers, I was really shocked to hear that there wasn’t a value to their wool, and they would bury or burn it - that didn’t make sense to me with my entrepreneurial head on. I couldn’t believe that after all the effort in growing this beautiful fleece, it wasn’t worth anything, so I was really determined to do something different with my flock, and to add value to their wool clip.”

How difficult did you find the process of learning to be a shepherd?

“I started out my career as a graphic designer, so making the move into

farming was a big career change. I had to learn everything from scratch including how to look after livestock, so I went on day courses, an evening course at a local agricultural college, read lots of books, asked lots of questions and really threw myself in at the deep end!

“Also, it wasn’t just the shepherding skills I had to learn - even though I have design skills, I had zero textiles skills. I couldn’t knit or sew, I had no concept of how to design homewares or construct a garment, so I completed an A-Level in Textile Design and then went on to an MA in Fashion and Textile Design at Bath Spa University.”

What is so special about British wool?

“I’m really passionate about British wool – it is massively undervalued, yet it’s something that we have in abundance on these islands. One of the most amazing things about British wool is that we have so many different breeds with such different

functions, characteristics and colours. We have the widest wool clip of anywhere in the world; it’s something to be very proud of, to treasure and something that we should be championing. Wool also has incredible natural properties, and the role it can play in a local, regenerative, circular textiles economy is so important.”

Does being involved in every stage of the production give you a strong sense of connection with your products?

“I feel an enormous connection with my products; there is a profound relationship when you are making a product where you have grown the raw material from scratch. When I am knitting or finishing a jumper, knowing that I may have helped deliver and nurture the sheep that produced the fleece, which is spun into my yarns is absolutely amazing. I have ewes that are 12 years old that have been all the way along the journey with me, and they are such an important part of the story.”

Can you tell us more about your flock?

“We have a herd of rare-breed British White and English Longhorn Cattle, together with my flock of 200 Portland and Castlemilk Moorit sheep. Both produce a fine wool. The Portland has a big, thick fleece in a gorgeous natural ecru colour, which also takes dye beautifully. The Castlemilk Moorit fleece is completely different; it’s a slightly shorter fibre and at the base next to the sheep’s skin it is a lovely bitter chocolate colour. The tips of the fleece bleach in the sun, so when it’s spun at the mill it creates a very special multi-tonal, mocha-coloured yarn.”

Your business clearly advocates high standards of animal welfare.

“Animal welfare is so important to me, I care deeply for the flock and feel very compassionate about each individual animal’s welfare. Not just because I care about the animals, but also, it’s a reflection on me and how I run my enterprise. We are

1 Katie’s flock includes Portland sheep

2 Fleeces are spun by The Natural Fibre Company in Cornwall 3 Katie’s Castlemilk Moorit lambs

KATIE ALLEN

in organic conversion with Organic Farmers and Growers and we are certified with Pasture for Life – both certification bodies ensure high standards of animal welfare and environmental management.”

What led to your interest in regenerative farming?

“I have always been very interested in biodiversity and farming in partnership with nature – it has always been our priority to use practices which heal, repair and renew the environment. We focus on grazing methods; how we graze the livestock is vital for regenerative farming and we utilize the grassland to allow maximum biodiversity establishment.

“Not allowing the livestock to eat the grass too short is key. We graze them in groups to replicate natural herd movement. By doing this on a regular basis, we ensure that they trample a third, eat a third then leave a third. Through this process they are trampling in all the muck and seeds from

the wild flowers and grasses; this helps to build up organic matter on the pastures, and then by leaving a third, it bounces back quicker, needing only the sun’s energy to grow. In other areas of the field, wildflowers have a chance to drop their seeds and it leaves habitats that are really good for invertebrates and small creatures, which in turn creates great hunting ground for birds.

“Our grazing practices mean longer grass, which means long roots underneath in the soil. When the livestock come along and eat the grass down, it breaks down the roots too, adding natural organic matter into the soil. Healthy soil, with good root structure and longer grasses, aids with the filtration of water and helps to prevent flooding. Longer grasses help keep the ground cooler, and longer roots reach more moisture in drought weather. It makes the land a lot more resilient.

“As we move the livestock quickly across our fields, like a herd moving across a

4 + 5 Katie loves her life as a shepherd 6 Her range includes hats and mitts 7 Katie designs all of her pieces and makes them on a hand-powered knitting machine

plain, the grass is allowed to recover and grow properly. This regrowth sequesters carbon much better than constantly grazed, shorter grasses.”

What aspect of working as a shepherd and designer do you enjoy the most?

“If I had to choose one, a sheep farmer or a knitwear designer, I would always choose to be a farmer as I love being outdoors. I love that farming is physically demanding, mentally challenging and requires constant problem-solving. Although, I am a creative at heart, so it’s great that I have found this work with the flock’s fibre. It allows me to express the creative and making part of me - I love how these two very different worlds collide together in my business.”

Can you describe some of the sustainable processes involved in your business?

“I don’t use any electricity in the construction of my garments or accessories; my knitting machine is completely hand-powered - there are no electronic linkers, everything is hand sewn together. When the mill spins the yarn for me, that’s probably where the most energy intensive process lies, but overall wool has very minimal processing compared with other natural fibres. We also don’t own any tractors or use synthetic fertilisers, so fossil fuels make up a very tiny part of our farming business.”

How long does each garment take to make from shearing to the finished product?

“It takes a year for the sheep to grow their fleece, and then six months for the fleeces to be spun at the mill and come back to me - depending on the product, it takes between five to twelve hours to actually knit and hand-finish each design, so it is a very slow making process. I use a fully fashioned, no-waste knit process.”

Where do you look for design inspiration?

“I like combining contemporary, bold designs with vibrant colour to create something that’s really unique. I keep various sketchbooks with photographs from the countryside around me - flowers in hedgerows, bright autumn leaves and wildflower meadows. Nature is an amazing source of inspiration.”

- www.loopyewes.co.uk

The Castlemilk Moorits give a lovely mocha-coloured wool

KATIE ALLEN

EMMA VINING

Avebury

NATURAL History Museum in London is full of geometric, decorative details, and this design was inspired by one small wall section,” says Emma Vining. “The stitch pattern is knitted as a series of blocks placed next to each other, joining the zigzag cables and creating partial shapes. These shapes are separated by horizontal lines of reverse stocking stitch ridges.” Emma’s

length, knitted flat from the bottom up, and has approximately 20cm of ease. It uses Rowan’s smooth,

Softyak DK yarn.

STITCH PATTERNS

PATTERN A

(worked over 39 sts and 6 rows)

Row 1 (RS): P2, K2, P8, K2, P3, (K2, P9) twice.

Row 2 (WS): (K9, P2) twice, K3, P2, K8, P2, K2.

Row 3: P2, K2, P2, K8, P3, (K2, P2, K5, P2) twice.

Row 4: As Row 2.

Row 5: As Row 1.

Row 6: (K2, P5, K2, P2) twice, K3, P8, K2, P2, K2.

PATTERN B

(worked over 39 sts and 6 rows)

Row 1 (RS): (P9, K2) twice, P3, K2, P8, K2, P2.

Row 2 (WS): K2, P2, K8, P2, K3, (P2, K9) twice.

Row 3: (P2, K5, P2, K2) twice, P3, K8, P2,

SIZE

K2, P2.

Row 4: As Row 2.

Row 5: As Row 1.

Row 6: K2, P2, K2, P8, K3, (P2, K2, P5, K2) twice.

PATTERN C (worked over 39 sts and 16 rows)

Row 1 (RS): P2, K2, P2, K5, T3B, P2, T3B, P9, K2, P9.

Row 2 (WS): K9, P2, K10, P2, K3, P7, K2, P2, K2.

Row 3: P2, K2, P2, K4, (T3B, P2) twice, C3B, K3, P2, K2, P2, K5, P2.

Row 4: K2, P5, K2, P2, K2, P6, K3, P2, K3, P6, K2, P2, K2.

Row 5: P2, K2, P2, K3, (T3B, P2) twice, C3B, K4, P2, K2, P2, K5, P2.

Row 6: K2, P5, K2, P2, K2, P7, K3, P2, K10, P2, K2.

Row 7: P2, K2, P9, T3B, P2, C3B, K5, P2, K2, P2, K5, P2.

Row 8: K2, P5, K2, P2, K2, P8, K3, P2, K2, P5, K2, P2, K2.

Row 9: P2, K2, P9, T3F, P2, T3F, K5, P2, K2, P2, K5, P2.

Row 10: As Row 6.

Row 11: P2, K2, P2, K3, C3F, (P2, T3F) twice, K4, P2, K2, P2, K5, P2.

Row 12: As Row 4.

Row 13: P2, K2, P2, K4, C3F, (P2, T3F) twice, K3, P2, K2, P2, K5, P2.

Row 14: As Row 2.

Row 15: P2, K2, P2, K5, C3F, P2, T3F, P9, K2, P9.

Row 16: (K2, P5, K2, P2) twice, K3, P8, K2, P2, K2.

PATTERN D (worked over 39 sts and 16 rows)

Row 1 (RS): P9, K2, P9, T3F, P2, T3F, K5, P2, K2, P2.

Row 2 (WS): K2, P2, K2, P7, K3, P2, K10, P2, K9.

Row 3: P2, K5, P2, K2, P2, K3, C3F, (P2, T3F) twice, K4, P2, K2, P2.

Row 4: K2, P2, K2, P6, K3, P2, K3, P6, K2, P2, K2, P5, K2.

Row 5: P2, K5, P2, K2, P2, K4, C3F, (P2, T3F) twice, K3, P2, K2, P2.

Row 6: K2, P2, K10, P2, K3, P7, K2, P2, K2, P5, K2.

Row 7: P2, K5, P2, K2, P2, K5, C3F, P2, T3F, P9, K2, P2.

Row 8: K2, P2, K2, P5, K2, P2, K3, P8, K2, P2, K2, P5, K2.

Row 9: P2, K5, P2, K2, P2, K5, T3B, P2, T3B, P9, K2, P2.

Row 10: As Row 6.

Row 11: P2, K5, P2, K2, P2, K4, (T3B, P2) twice, C3B, K3, P2, K2, P2.

Row 12: As Row 4.

Row 13: P2, K5, P2, K2, P2, K3, (T3B, P2) twice, C3B, K4, P2, K2, P2.

Row 14: As Row 2.

Row 15: P9, K2, P9, T3B, P2, C3B, K5, P2, K2, P2.

Row 16: K2, P2, K2, P8, K3, (P2, K2, P5, K2) twice.

BACK

Using 3.25mm needles, cast on 128 (140:150:162:172:184:194:206)

1 (RS, placing markers): P24 (30:35:41: 46:52:57:63), pm, work Pattern A Row 1, K2,

NEEDLES & ACCESSORIES

1 pair 3.25mm (UK 10/US 3) knitting needles

1 pair 4mm (UK 8/ US 6) knitting needles

9 buttons

Stitch holders

Stitch markers

Cable needle (cn)

TENSION

22 sts and 30 rows to 10cm over st st using 4mm needles.

28 sts and 30 rows to 10cm over Tile Pattern using 4mm needles.

Back cable panel meas 29½cm wide.

YARN STOCKISTS

Rowan 01484 668200 www.knitrowan.com

SPECIAL ABBREVIATIONS

C3F: Slip next 2 sts to cn and hold at front, K1, then K2 from cn.

C3B: Slip next st to cn and hold at back, K2, then K1 from cn.

T3F: Slip next 2 sts to cn and hold at front, P1, then K2 from cn.

T3B: Slip next st to cn and hold at back, K2, then P1 from cn.

For general abbreviations, see p89

work Pattern B Row 1, pm, P24 (30:35:41: 46:52:57:63).

Row 2 (WS): K to mrk, work Pattern B Row 2, P2, work Pattern A Row 2, slm, K to end.

Row 3: K to mrk, work Pattern A Row 3, K2, work Pattern B Row 3, slm, K to end.

Row 4: K to mrk, work Pattern B Row 4, P2, work Pattern A Row 4, slm, K to end.

Row 5: P to mrk, work Pattern A Row 5, K2, work Pattern B Row 5, slm, P to end.

Row 6: P to mrk, work Pattern B Row 6, P2, work Pattern A Row 6, slm, P to end.

Row 7: P to mrk, work Pattern A Row 1, K2, work Pattern B Row 1, slm, P to end.

Rows 8-12: Work as Rows 2-6.

Row 13: Work as Row 7.

Rows 14-18: Work as Rows 2-6.

Change to 4mm needles.

Row 1 (RS): K to mrk, work Pattern C Row 1, K2, work Pattern D Row 1, slm, K to end.

Row 2 (WS): P to mrk, work Pattern D Row 2, P2, work Pattern C Row 2, slm, P to end.

Rows 3-16: Work as Rows 1-2, with garment sides worked in stocking stitch and using Patterns C and D Rows 3-16.

Rows 1-16 set the Main Pattern.

Cont in Main Pattern until work meas 57 (58:59:60:61:62:63:64) cm from cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.

SHAPE RIGHT SHOULDER AND BACK NECK

Next row (RS): Cast off 12 (14:15:17:18:20: 21:23) sts at beg of row for shoulder, patt until you have 38 (42:44:48:50:54:56:60) sts on your RH needle. Place rem sts on a spare needle and work on these 38 (42:44:48:50:54:56:60) sts only.

Next row (WS): Cast off 7 sts at beg of row for neck, patt to end.

31 (35:37:41:43:47:49:53) sts.

Next row: Cast off 12 (14:15:17:18:20:21:23) sts at beg of row for shoulder, patt to end.

19 (21:22:24:25:27:28:30) sts.

Next row: Cast off 7 sts at beg of row for neck, patt to end.

12 (14:15:17:18:20:21:23) sts.

Next row: Cast off rem 12 (14:15:17:18:20: 21:23) sts.

Rejoin yarn to sts on the spare needle and cast off next 28 (28:32:32:36:36:40:40) sts; patt to end.

50 (56:59:

SHAPE LEFT SHOULDER AND BACK NECK

Next row (WS): Cast off 12 (14:15:17:18:20: 21:23) sts at beg of row, patt to end. 38 (42:44:48:50:54:56:60) sts.

Next row (RS): Cast off 7 sts at beg of row for neck, patt to end. 31 (35:37:41:43:47:49:53) sts.

Next row: Cast off 12 (14:15:17:18:20:21:23) sts at beg of row for shoulder, patt to end. 19 (21:22:24:25:27:28:30) sts.

Next row: Cast off 7 sts at beg of row for neck, patt to end. 12 (14:15:17:18:20:21:23) sts.

Next row: Cast off rem 12 (14:15:17:18:20: 21:23) sts.

LEFT FRONT

Using 3.25mm needles, cast on 74 (80:85:91:96:102:107:113) sts.

Row 1 (RS, placing markers): P24 (30:35:41: 46:52:57:63), pm, work Pattern A Row 1, (K2, P2) twice, K3.

Row 2 (WS): Sl 1, P2, (K2, P2) twice, work Pattern A Row 2, slm, K to end.

Row 3: K to mrk, work Pattern A Row 3,

(K2, P2) twice, K3.

Row 4: Sl 1, P2, (K2, P2) twice, work Pattern

A Row 4, slm, K to end.

Row 5: P to mrk, work Pattern A Row 5, (K2, P2) twice, K3.

Row 6: Sl 1, P2, (K2, P2) twice, work Pattern

A Row 6, slm, P to end.

Row 7: P to mrk, work Pattern A Row 1, (K2, P2) twice, K3.

Rows 8-12: Work as Rows 2-6.

Row 13: Work as Row 7.

Rows 14-18: Work as Rows 2-6.

Change to 4mm needles.

Row 1 (RS): K to mrk, work Pattern C Row 1, (K2, P2) twice, K3.

Row 2 (WS): Sl 1, P2, (K2, P2) twice, work Pattern C Row 2, slm, P to end.

Rows 3-16: Work as Rows 1-2, with garment side worked in stocking stitch and using Pattern C Rows 3-16.

Rows 1-16 set the Main Pattern. Cont in Main Pattern until work meas 50 (51:51:52:52:53:53:54) cm from cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.

SHAPE NECK

Next row (RS): Patt 53 (59:64:70:75:81: 86:92) sts, remove mrk, turn and leave rem 21 sts on a holder.

Next row (WS): Cast off 9 (9:10:10:10:10: 10:10) sts at beg of row, patt to end. 44 (50:54:60:65:71:76:82) sts.

Next row: Patt to last 4 sts, K2tog, K2. 43 (49:53:59:64:70:75:81) sts.

Next row: P2, P2tog, patt to end. 42 (48:52:58:63:69:74:80) sts.

Dec 1 st at neck edge as set on the next 3 (3:3:3:3:3:5:5) rows, then on 3 (3:4:4:6:6:6:6) foll alt rows. 36 (42:45:51:54:60:63:69) sts.

Working last 3 sts of RS rows and first 3 sts of WS rows in stocking stitch, continue until Front matches Back to shoulder shaping, ending after a WS row.

SHAPE SHOULDER

Cast off 12 (14:15:17:18:20:21:23) sts at beg of next 2 RS rows. 12 (14:15:17:18:20:21:23) sts. Patt one row. Cast off rem 12 (14:15:17:18:20:21:23) sts.

RIGHT FRONT

Using 3.25mm needles, cast on 74 (80:85:91:96:102:107:113) sts. Row 1 (RS, placing markers): Sl 1, K2, (P2, K2) twice, work Pattern B Row 1, pm, P24 (30:35:41:46:52:57:63).

The patch pockets are worked in the tile pattern

Row 2 (WS): K to mrk, work Pattern B Row 2, (P2, K2) twice, P3.

Row 3: Sl 1, K2, (P2, K2) twice, work Pattern B Row 3, slm, K to end.

Row 4: K to mrk, work Pattern B Row 4, (P2, K2) twice, P3.

Row 5: Sl 1, K2, (P2, K2) twice, work Pattern B Row 5, slm, P to end.

Row 6: P to mrk, work Pattern B Row 6, (P2, K2) twice, P3.

Row 7: Sl 1, K2, (P2, K2) twice, work Pattern B Row 1, slm, P to end.

Rows 8-12: Work as Rows 2-6.

Row 13: Work as Row 7. Rows 14-18: Work as Rows 2-6.

Change to 4mm needles.

Row 1 (RS, make buttonhole): Sl 1, K2, P2, K2tog, yo twice, SSK, P2, K2, work Pattern D Row 1, slm, K to end.

Row 2 (WS): P to mrk, work Pattern D Row 2, P2, K2, (K1, P1) into yo loops, K2, P3.

Row 3: Sl 1, K2, (P2, K2) twice, work Pattern D Row 3, slm, K to end.

Row 4: P to mrk, work Pattern D Row 2, (P2, K2) twice, P3.

Rows 5-16: Work as Rows 3-4, with garment side worked in stocking stitch and using Pattern D Rows 5-16.

Rows 1-16 set the Main Pattern, with a buttonhole worked on every Row 1 and 2. Cont in Main Pattern until work meas 50 (51:51:52:52:53:53:54) cm from cast-on edge, ending with a RS row.

SHAPE NECK

Next row (WS): Patt 53 (59:64:70:75:81: 86:92) sts, remove mrk, turn and leave rem 21 sts on a holder.

Next row (RS): Cast off 9 (9:10:10:10:10: 10:10) sts at beg of row, patt to end.

44 (50:54:60:65:71:76:82) sts.

Next row: Patt to last 4 sts, P2tog tbl, P2. 43 (49:53:59:64:70:75:81) sts.

Next row: K2, SSK, patt to end.

42 (48:52:58:63:69:74:80) sts.

Dec 1 st at neck edge as set on the next 3 (3:3:3:3:3:5:5) rows, then on 3 (3:4:4:6:6:6:6) foll alt rows.

36 (42:45:51:54:60:63:69) sts.

Working first 3 sts of RS rows and last 3 sts of WS rows in stocking stitch, continue until Front matches Back to shoulder shaping, ending with WS facing for next row.

SHAPE SHOULDER

Cast off 12 (14:15:17:18:20:21:23) sts at beg of next 2 WS rows.

12 (14:15:17:18:20:21:23) sts.

Patt one row.

Cast off rem 12 (14:15:17:18:20:21:23) sts.

SLEEVES (both alike)

Using 3.25mm needles, cast on 64 (64:66:66:68:68:70:70) sts.

Row 1 (RS): Purl.

Row 2 (WS): Knit.

Row 3: Knit.

Row 4: Knit.

Row 5: Purl.

Row 6: Purl.

Rows 7-18: Rep rows 1-6 twice.

Change to 4mm needles. Beg with a K row, work 4 rows in st st. Row 5 (RS, inc row): K2, M1, K to last 2 sts, M1, K2. 66 (66:68:68:70:70:72:72) sts.

Increase as set on 1 ( ) foll 4th ( 2nd) rows. 68 ( Then increase as set on 9 ( :15:13:14:12) foll 6th ( 4th) rows. 86 (

Cont without shaping until Sleeve meas 30 ( ) cm from cast-on edge, ending after a WS row. Cast off.

TO MAKE UP

Block gently to measurements, following yarn care instructions on the ball band. Join shoulder seams.

NECKBAND

With WS facing and using 3.25mm needles, work across 21 sts on right front band stitch holder as follows: P1, K2, P5, (K2, P2) three times, P1.

Next, with RS facing and starting at right front band, pick up and work sts as follows: Sl 1, (K2, P2) three times, K5, P2, K1; pick up and knit 22 (22:24:24:28:28:30:30) sts from the right front side of neck; 56 (56:60:60:64:64:68:68) sts from the back centre neck; 22 (22:24:24:28:28:30:30) sts from the left front side of neck; K1, P2, K5, (P2, K2) three times, K1 over the 21 sts from the left front st holder. 142 (142:150:150:162:162:170:170) sts.

Row 1 (WS): Sl 1, (P2, K2) twice, P2, K to last 11 sts, (P2, K2) twice, P3.

Row 2 (RS): Sl 1, (K2, P2) twice, K2, P to last 11 sts, (K2, P2) twice, K3.

Row 3: Sl 1, (P2, K2) three times, P5, K2, P to last 20 sts, K2, P5, (K2, P2) three times, P1.

Row 4: Work as Row 2.

Row 5: Work as Row 1.

Row 6: Sl 1, (K2, P2) three times, K5, P2, K to last 20 sts, P2, K5, (P2, K2) three times, K1.

Rows 7-12: Work as Rows 1-6.

Row 13: Work as Row 1.

Cast off in pattern as set by Row 2.

PATCH POCKETS

LEFT POCKET

Using 4mm needles, cast on 41 sts.

Row 1 (RS): K1, work Pattern C Row 1, K1.

Row 2 (WS): P1, work Pattern C Row 2, P1.

Rows 3-16: Work as Rows 1-2, using Pattern C Rows 3-16.

Work Rows 1-13 once more.

Change to 3.25mm needles and complete pocket top:

Row 14 (WS): P1, K to last st, K1.

Row 15 (RS): K1, P to last st, K1.

Row 16: Purl.

Row 17: Work as Row 15.

Row 18: Work as Row 14.

Row 19: Knit.

Row 20: Work as Row 14.

Cast off purlwise.

RIGHT POCKET

Using 4mm needles, cast on 41 sts.

Row 1 (RS): K1, work Pattern D Row 1, K1. Row 2 (WS): P1, work Pattern D Row 2, P1. Rows 3-16: Work as Rows 1-2, using Pattern D Rows 3-16.

Work Rows 1-13 once more.

Change to 3.25mm needles. Complete pocket top as set by Left Pocket Rows 14-20.

Cast off purlwise.

FINISHING

Mark centre point of sleeve cast-off. Match this point to shoulder seam and pin sleeve in place evenly, approximately 18 (19:20:21:21½:22½:23½:24½) cm on either side of shoulder seam.

Sew sleeve in place.

Repeat for second sleeve.

Join sleeve seams.

Join side seams.

Sew in any loose ends.

Sew buttons onto left front button band to match button holes on right front.

Stitch patch pockets into place, matching with pattern on either side of front band.

    ! " #  $%& '  (!# &   (#&!!#     

SORAYA

sock pattern, I was inspired by the iconic illustrations of Quentin

gangly and funny

often

have been knitted by hand,”

Soraya García. Her project

using Yarnadelic Sport by John Arbon, a 100% Corriedale

PATTERN NOTES

This is a simple one-row striped pattern without the need for seams or carrying the yarns inside the garment, thanks to the colour technique called helical stripes. Both socks are knitted together in one piece as a long tube which begins and ends at each of the cuffs. Afterthought heels and toes are placed with contrast waste yarn to pick up the stitches at the end. The afterthought heels and toes are shaped with decreases, ending with grafting.

SPECIAL TECHNIQUES

Helical Stripes is a type of colour technique in which single-row stripes are knitted in a helix without the need to cross the yarns inside the work or to bring the yarns along the length of the fabric. The basic idea of this technique is to divide the total points of your circumference between the number of colours you want to alternate. In our case, it is three. You will knit one segment of these three with the first two colours and two with the last colours of

YARN

100%

NEEDLES & ACCESSORIES

Set of 2.25mm (UK 13/US 1) double-pointed needles (DPNs), or circular needles, 60-80cm long, for Magic Loop method

of 2.5mm (UK 12-13/US 1-2) DPNs, or circular needles, 60-80cm long, for Magic Loop method

in a contrast colour

TENSION

rows to 10cm over st st

2.5mm needles

YARN STOCKISTS

John Arbon Textiles

579861 www.jarbon.com

100g

abbreviations,

p89

every lap. Each colour is ‘chasing’ the other, which means you don’t have any colour ‘jog’ or place where the thread is wrapped around itself.

For more guidance on working helical stripes, see our Masterclass: www.gathered.how/knitting-andcrochet/knitting/how-to-knit-helicalstripes/

MAIN SOCKS

(both worked at the same time)

LEFT CUFF

Using 2.25mm needles and yarn A, cast on 54 (60:66) sts.

Pm and join to work in the round, taking care not to twist sts.

Rib rnd: *K1, P1; rep from * to end. This rnd forms rib.

Work in rib until cuff meas 2cm.

Change to 2.5mm needles.

SET LEG PATTERN

Important: Do not cross the yarns inside the work or carry them. ‘Drop’ them after the last stitch you knit with that yarn, leaving them at that point of the rnd.

Set-up rnd : K18 (20:22) using yarn A, drop yarn A and join yarn B, K18 (20:22) using yarn B, drop yarn B and join yarn C, K36 (40:44) using yarn C and slipping beg of rnd mrk as you go. You will be at the

point where the yarn A end is waiting for you, ready to work with yarn A next.

Work in pattern: For each yarn colour, knit until you reach the waiting working yarn for the next colour and switch to that yarn colour. This is known as ‘chasing’ the colour, as you are working with one yarn until you reach the next, then switching to the next yarn colour. Slip the beg of rnd mrk throughout.

LEFT LEG

Continue chasing every colour in pattern using the helix technique until Left Leg meas 18 (20:22) cm from pattern set-up rnd, ending at beg of rnd mrk.

SET LEFT HEEL POSITION

Next rnd: Working in pattern as set using the helix technique, knit to last 27 (30:33) sts of the rnd, knit next 27 (30:33) sts using waste yarn, slip these 27 (30:33) sts back to the left-hand needle, knit in pattern as set using the helix technique.

LEFT FOOT

chasing every colour in pattern

the helix technique until Left Foot

13½ (17½:19) cmfrom waste yarn or 8½ (9½:10) cm less than your desired foot length, noting that the afterthought heel will add approx 4½ (5:5) cm and the toe will add approx 4 (4½:5) cm, and ending at beg of rnd mrk.

SORAYA

The two socks are knitted as a single tube, with afterthought heels and toes

AFTERTHOUGHT HEELS

Carefully remove waste yarn at heel and place 27 (30:33) sts from top set of sts onto one needle and 27 (30:33) sts from bottom set of sts onto another needle. Note there will be one less stitch to pick up on the top due to the nature of how the stitches lie, so you will need to pick up a stitch in the middle of the row.

54 (60:66) sts.

Join in yarn A.

Next rnd: Pm for beg of rnd at one side of the heel, pick up and knit 1 st in gap between top and bottom, K27 (30:33) sts, pick up and knit 1 st in gap between top and bottom, pm for side, pick up and knit 1 more st in gap between top and bottom, K27 (30:33) sts, pick up and knit 1 st in gap.

Join to work in the rnd.

58 (64:70) sts.

Dec rnd: (K1, SSK, knit to 3 sts before mrk, K2tog, K1, slm) twice. 4 sts dec’d.

Next rnd: Knit.

Rep these 2 rnds until 22 (24:30) sts remain on needles.

Divide rem sts onto two DPNs. Break yarn, leaving a long tail (approx 3 times the width of the opening). Graft sts together using Kitchener stitch.

Work the other heel identically.

AFTERTHOUGHT TOES

Carefully remove waste yarn at one side of toe and place 54 (60:66) onto the needles, picking up a stitch from the row at the top of the waste yarn as with the heels.

Join in yarn A.

SET BOTH TOES POSITION

Next rnd: K54 (60:66) using waste yarn.

Rep this rnd once more using waste yarn.

RIGHT FOOT

Continue chasing every colour in pattern using the helix technique until Right Foot meas 13½ (17½:19) cm from waste yarnor 8½ (9½:10) cm less than your desired length, ending at beg of rnd mrk.

SET RIGHT HEEL POSITION

Next rnd: Working in pattern as set using the helix technique, knit to last 27 (30:33) sts of the rnd, knit next 27 (30:33) sts using waste yarn, slip these 27 (30:33) sts back to the left-hand needle, knit in pattern as set using the helix technique.

RIGHT LEG

Continue chasing every colour in pattern using the helix technique until the Right Leg measures 18 (20:22) cm from heel position, ending at beg of rnd mrk.

RIGHT CUFF

Change to 2.25mm needles.

Break yarns B and C.

Next rnd: K54 (60:66) using yarn A.

Rib rnd: *K1, P1; rep from * to end.

This rnd forms rib.

Work in rib until cuff meas 2cm. Cast off loosely in rib patt using a stretchy method such as Jeny’s Surprisingly Stretchy Bind Off (for guidance, see our Masterclass in Issue 135 or read an explanation at http://bit.ly/jenyssbo ).

Dec rnd : (K1, SSK, knit to 3 sts before mrk, K2tog, K1, slm) twice. 4 sts dec’d.

Next rnd: Knit.

Rep these 2 rnds until 22 (24:26) sts remain on needles.

Divide rem sts onto two DPNs. Break yarn, leaving a long tail (approx 3 times the width of the toe). Graft sts together using Kitchener stitch.

Remove waste yarn at other side of toe and work in the same way.

FINISHING

Weave in ends and block socks gently to measurements, following any yarn care instructions on the ball band.

YARNS

CASHMERE DREAMS from Lang Yarns is a delicious blend of cashmere and silk, and is ideal for special accessories which will be worn next to the skin. The design team at Lang has used the yarn for this lightweight scarf, which features diamond openwork motifs on a garter stitch fabric.

SCARF

Using 3mm

Row 1: K1, work row 1 of Chart, K1. Row 2: K1, work row 2 of Chart, K1.

Continue working Chart as set

approx 119cm, ending after row 32 or row 64, and then working Rows 1–6 again once.

Loosely

JULIET BERNARD

“I LOVE gently repetitive, graphic patterns to help you get into the rhythm of a project - so satisfying and relaxing!” says designer Juliet Bernard. She has used a monochrome palette for her stranded colourwork design, and knitted her hat using a luxurious, wool-cashmere yarn from KC Collection, called Naturally Soft 4ply. This is available in a choice of 10 sophisticated shades.

HAT

BRIM

Using 3.25mm circular needles or DPNs and yarn A, cast on 120 sts. Pm and join to work in the round, taking care not to twist sts.

Round 1: *K2, P2; rep from * to end of rnd. Rep Round 1 another 11 times.

CROWN

Set-up round: *K5, M1; rep from * to end of round. 144 sts.

Round 1: Join yarn B and work Row 1 of Chart, rep 16-st rep 9 times.

Cont in patt as set, working consecutive rnds of chart and working decreases as indicated, until Round 54 of chart has been completed. 9 sts.

FINISHING

Cut working yarn leaving a 15cm tail. Using a tapestry needle, thread the yarn tail through the remaining 9 sts and pull tight. Weave in ends and block the hat using steam, and following any yarn care instructions on the ball band. v

SIZE

To fit head circumference: 55cm (21¾in)

Actual circumference: 48cm (19in)

Depth: 20cm (7¾in)

YARN

KC Collection Naturally Soft 4ply (4ply weight; 90% Bluefaced Leicester wool, 10% cashmere; 190m/207yds per 50g skein)

A Granite (6020); 1 x 50g skein

B Winter White (6029); 1 x 50g skein

NEEDLES & ACCESSORIES

3.25mm (UK 10/US 3) circular needles, 40cm long, or set of double-pointed needles (DPNS), or circular needles, 80cm long, for the Magic Loop method

Stitch marker

Tapestry needle

TENSION

30 sts and 33 rows to 10cm over chart pattern using 3.25mm needles

YARN STOCKISTS

KC Collection c/o King Cole 01756 703670 www.kingcole.com Available from Wool Warehouse www.woolwarehouse.co.uk

CHART

For general abbreviations, see p89

KEY

Lough Corrib

The textured fabric is complemented by a central cable column

Lough Corrib

design features a subtly textured

shape

highlighted by a central column of reverse stocking stitch flanked by small

The neckline ribbing is overlapped and stitched in place at the bottom. Pat Menchini’s design is knitted in Sheepsoft DK, a pure British

spun in Yorkshire by Laxtons and which comes in 16 muted colours.

BACK

Using 3mm needles, cast on 111 (123:135:147:159:171) sts.

Row 1 (RS): K2, *P1, K1; rep from * to last st, K1.

Row 2: K1, *P1, K1; rep from * to end. Rep last 2 rows until rib measures 7cm, ending after a RS row.

Next row (WS): P5 (6:7:8:9:10), *M1P, P10 (11:12:13:14:15); rep from * to last 6 (7:8:9:10:11) sts, M1P, P to end. 122 (134:146:158:170:182) sts.

Change to 3.75mm needles and set patt as folls: Row 1 (RS): K55 (61:67:73:79:85), P1, C3B, P4, C3F, P1, K55 (61:67:73:79:85).

Row 2 and all WS rows: P55 (61:67:73:79:85), K1, P3, K4, P3, K1, P55 (61:67:73:79:85).

Row 3: K55 (61:67:73:79:85), P1, K3, P4, K3, P1, K to end.

Row 5: K1, *(TW2P) twice, K2; rep from * another 8 (9:10:11:12:13) times, P1, C3F, P4, C3B, P1, **K2, (TW2P) twice; rep from ** another 8 (9:10:11:12:13) times, K1.

Row 7: K1, *(TW2P) twice, K2; rep from * another 8 (9:10:11:12:13) times, P1, K3, P4,

K3, P1, **K2, (TW2P) twice; rep from ** another 8 ( Row 8: As row 2. These 8 rows set patt. Cont in patt until work measures 41 (41:43:43 ending after a WS row. Place a marker at centre of last row.

SHAPE ARMHOLES

Cast off 8 ( ) sts at beg of next 2 rows.

106 (114:124:

Dec 1 st at each end of next 8 ( 12) rows, then on 2 (3:3:4:4:5) foll RS rows. 86 (92:98:104:110:116) sts. Work straight until Back measures 24 (25:25:26:27:28) cm from mrk, ending after a WS row.

SHAPE SHOULDERS

Loosely cast off 6 (6:7:8:8:9) sts at beg of next 6 rows, then 7 (9:8:7:9:8) sts at beg of foll 2 rows.

Slip rem 36 (38:40:42:44:46) sts to a holder and leave.

FRONT

Work as for Back to ***.

Dec 1 st at each end of next 8 (8:10:10:12:12) rows, then on 2 (3:2:2:1:1) foll RS rows. 86 (92:100:108:116:124) sts.

DIVIDE FOR NECK

Next row (WS): Patt 43 (46:50:54:58:62), slip these sts to a holder, patt to end. Cont on 43 (46:50:54:58:62) sts just worked for left half of neck.

LEFT FRONT NECK

Sizes 1 and 2 only

Dec row (RS): Patt to last 9 sts, K2tog, K1, P1, patt to end. 1 st dec’d.

Next row: K2, P3, K1, P to end.

Rep last 2 rows another 12 (12:-: :--) times, then work Dec row on 5 (6:-: :-: ) foll 4th rows. 25 (27:-: :-: ) sts.

Sizes 3, 4, 5 and 6 only

Dec row 1: K2tog, patt to last 9 sts, K2tog, K1, P1, patt to end. 2 sts dec’d.

Next row: K2, P3, K1, P to end.

Rep last 2 rows another – ( :0:1:2:3) times. – (-:48:50:52:54) sts.

Dec row 2: Patt to last 9 sts, K2tog, K1, P1, patt to end. 1 st dec’d.

Next row: K2, P3, K1, P to end.

Rep last 2 rows another – ( :13:13:12:12) times, then work Dec row 2 on – ( :5:5:6:6) foll 4th rows.

( :29:31:33:35) sts.

All sizes

Work

Back to start of shoulder shaping, ending at armhole edge.

SHAPE SHOULDER

row

6 (6:7:8:8:9) sts at beg of

the 2 foll alt rows.

row straight.

rem 7 (9:8:7:9:8) sts.

RIGHT FRONT NECK

NEEDLES & ACCESSORIES

1 pair 3mm (UK 11/US 2-3) knitting needles

1 pair 3.75mm (UK 9/US 5) knitting needles

Cable needle (cn)

2 stitch holders

TENSION

22 sts and 28 rows to 10cm over stocking stitch using 3.75mm needles.

24 sts and 28 rows to 10cm over pattern using 3.75mm needles.

YARN STOCKISTS

by Laxtons 01943 877123 www.bylaxtons.co.uk

SPECIAL ABBREVIATIONS

M1P: Pick up and purl into back of horizontal strand lying before next st.

TW2P: P2tog but do not slip sts off left needle, now purl the first of these 2 sts again and slip both the sts off left needle.

C3R: Slip next 2 sts on cn and hold at back of work, K1, now K2 from cn.

C3L: Slip next st on cn and hold at front of work, K2, now K1 from cn.

For general abbreviations, see p89

BLOCKING DIAGRAM

50 (55:60:65:70:75)

Sizes 1 and 2 only

Dec row (RS): Patt 5 sts, P1, K1, K2tog tbl, patt to end. 1 st dec’d.

Next row: Patt to last 8 sts, P2, K1, P3, K2. Rep last 2 rows another 12 (12:-: :--) times, then work Dec row on 5 (6:-: :-: ) foll 4th rows. 25 (27:-: :-: ) sts.

Sizes 3, 4, 5 and 6 only

Dec row 1: Patt 5 sts, P1, K1, K2tog tbl, patt to last 2 sts, K2tog tbl. 2 st dec’d. Next row: Patt to last 8 sts, P2, K1, P3, K2. Rep last 2 rows another – ( :0:1:2:3) times. – ( :48:50:52:54) sts.

Dec row 2: Patt 5 sts, P1, K1, K2tog tbl, patt to end. 1 st dec’d.

Next row: Patt to last 8 sts, P2, K1, P3, K2. Rep last 2 rows another ( :13:13:12:12) times, then work Dec row 2 on – ( :5:5:6:6)

foll 4th rows. – (

All sizes

Work straight until Front measures same as Back to start of shoulder shaping, ending at armhole edge.

SHAPE SHOULDER

Cast off loosely 6 ( ) sts at beg of next row and the 2 foll alt rows. Work 1 row straight. Cast off rem 7 ( NECKBAND Join left shoulder.

BACK NECK AND LEFT FRONT SECTION

Using 3mm needles, with RS facing, rejoin yarn to back neck and knit across the 36 (38:40:42:44:46) sts on holder, pick up

and knit 52 (56:56:58:62:64) sts evenly down left side of neck, finally pick up and knit into back of horizontal strand lying between the 2 centre sts of Front. 89 (95:97:101:107:111) sts.

Purl 1 row.

Row 1 (RS): K2, *P1, K1; rep from * to last st, K1.

Row 2: K1, *P1, K1; rep from * to end. Rep last 2 rows once more. Cast off evenly in rib.

RIGHT FRONT SECTION

Using 3mm needles, with RS facing, rejoin yarn neatly at centre Front and pick up and knit 53 (57:57:59:63:65) sts evenly up right side of neck.

Purl 1 row.

Work rib as for Left Front Section of Neckband.

ARMHOLE BORDERS

Using 3mm needles, with RS facing pick up and knit 89 (93:93:97:101:105) sts evenly round armhole.

Purl 1 row.

Work rib as for Left Front Section of Neckband.

TO MAKE UP

Omitting ribbing, press work lightly on WS using a warm iron set on low steam, and following any yarn care instructions on the ball band.

Join side edges of Neckband to pick-up row overlapping left side over right as in photo.

Join side seams and armhole borders. Press seams.

PART 6: FRIENDS FOR LIFE

Ellie Stokeld shares the story behind her very special flock of Border Leicesters

IN THE 26 years I have kept my Border Leicester sheep there have been many great characters who have stood out from the flock, although I have loved every one of them.

I started off with two ewe lambs, Martha and Minnie - wonderful sheep who introduced me to this amazing breed, and named after Coronation Street characters. Martha had a definite star quality, and attracted people wherever she went. Fiona was also a superstar, showing herself off proudly wherever she went, winning every championship at every County show we entered.

Our first ram came from Norfolk, and Dennis was his name. He was such a kind boy, always looking after his ewes. One morning, I went out to check on the flock and found I was missing both a ewe and a ram. Over the hill came a very lame ewe with Dennis by her side supporting her. He produced some wonderful lambs and will never be forgotten. His son, Albert was a huge character, too, playing football in the paddock with me.

One current superstar is Sam the Ram, who has attracted many visitors to the farm, from both the UK and the States. Sam was born to a very good, protective mother two weeks earlier than the main

flock, and she would not let us near him, stamping her foot at us when we got near. Sam however, would baaa back at me when I shouted his name. His mother did not want him to play with the other lambs as Sam was, in her opinion, far too good for them.

Sam grew into a character like no one else. He liked people and greeted every visitor to the flock, jumping up and nosing into their bags to see what they had brought him - because, after all, it was him that they had come to see, wasn’t it? Today, he is a huge, loving ram who is very interested in everything that is going on at the farm. He has become so well known that we have a knitting kit based on him - the Sam the Ram Lamb mitt kit, which sells so well. He now has his own ladies and produces wonderful lambs. Sam is seven years old and I hope he will be with us for many more years to come.

At the end of the day, we have a flock full of wonderful sheep who are loved greatly. Their fleeces are produced into our fabulous yarns, and all profits go to support the flock. Thank you, all of you, who buy their yarn. Without you there would be no flock.

MELDRUM

Lennox

GREEN STRIPES of stocking stitch are interspersed with yellow garter stitch lines on this poncho design from Carol Meldrum. She has used short rows to shape the poncho and create the branching textured effect. The design is knitted in King Cole’s Forest, a soft and tweedy yarn spun from recycled fibres.

BODY

Using 4.5mm needles and yarn A, cast on 80 (80:83:85:87) sts.

Row 1 (RS): Using yarn A, knit to end. Row 2 (WS): Using yarn A, purl to end.

Row 3: Using yarn B, K64 (64:67:69:69), w&t.

Row 4: Using yarn B, knit to end.

Row 5 (RS): Using yarn A, knit to 4 sts before previous w&t, w&t.

Row 6 (WS): Using yarn A, purl to end.

Row 7: Using yarn B, knit to 16 sts before previous w&t, w&t.

Row 8: Using yarn B, knit to end. Repeat Rows 5-8 once more, then repeat Rows 5-6 once more.

Row 15: Using yarn B, knit to end, working wraps with wrapped sts.

Row 16: Using yarn B, knit to end.

Row 17: Using yarn A, K20 (20:23:25:25), w&t.

Row 18: Using yarn A, purl to end.

Row 19: Using yarn B, knit to wrapped st, knit wrap with wrapped st, K3, w&t.

Row 20: Using yarn B, knit to end.

Row 21: Using yarn A, knit to wrapped st, knit wrap with wrapped st, K15, w&t.

NEEDLES &

purl

end.

once more, then repeat

19-20 once.

29: Using yarn A, knit to end.

30: Using yarn A, purl to end.

31-32:

33 to 40 more.

Rows 1-40 another 10 ( :14)

then repeat Rows 1-39 once more.

off using yarn B.

4.5mm needles and yarn A, cast on 30 sts.

1 (RS): Using yarn A, knit to end

2 (WS): Using yarn A, purl to end.

3-4: Using yarn B, knit to end.

Rows 1-4 another 46 (50:54:58:62)

then repeat Rows 1-3 once.

off using yarn B.

MAKING UP

in ends.

lower edge of collar to upper edge of body as follows: with RS of body and WS of collar facing and using mattress stitch, join pieces, matching stripe pattern.

mattress stitch, join cast-on and cast-off edges of body together. Repeat for collar.

to measurements, following any yarn care instructions on the ball band.

BLOCKING

Warehouse.

project

the

THE TWEEDY YARN IS SPUN FROM 100% RECYCLED FIBRES AND COMES IN A PALETTE OF EARTHY SHADES

CAROL MELDRUM

Lennox

Torquil

“I HAVE designed these mittens using a subtle colourwork pattern in brown and green shades of Jamieson & Smith’s Shetland wool,” explains Outi Kater. “They have stripy 2x2 ribbing at the cuffs, knitted using two shades of brown with low contrast. Wider stripes continue as a background for the green stranded colourwork stitch pattern. The mittens have Norwegian thumb gussets, which give them a good fit.”

MITTENS

Using 2.5mm DPNs, yarn A and the long-tail method, cast on 64 sts. Pm and join to work in the round, taking care not to twists sts.

RIBBING

Work rounds 1-24 of Chart A, working the 4-st chart repeat 16 times across each round.

BEGIN COLOURWORK

Change to 3mm DPNs.

Note that there is a separate Chart B for the right and left mittens.

Right mitten only

Round 1: K35 sts from Round 1 of Chart B - Right Hand, pm for beginning of palm, K29 sts from Round 1 of chart.

Rounds 2-4: Cont working chart as set. Round 5 (inc): Working chart as set, K35, M1, K5, M1, K to end .

Left mitten only

Round 1: K29 from Round 1 of Chart BLeft Hand, pm for end of palm, K35 from Round 1 of chart.

Rounds 2-4: Cont working chart as set.

Round 5 (inc): Working chart as set, K24, M1, K5, M1, K to end.

The cuffs are worked in a striped ribbing

Both mittens

Rounds 6-19: Continue working from Chart B, inc for the thumb gusset as set 72 sts.

Rounds 20-25 : Cont working from Chart B as set.

Right mitten only

Round 26 (thumb opening): K36, *leave 11 sts on a holder for thumb opening, using the backwards loop method cast on 11 new sts above thumb opening as set by chart, patt to end as set by chart.*

Left mitten only

Round 26 (thumb opening): K25, rep from * to * as for Right mitten.

Both mittens

Rounds 27-56: Cont working from Chart B as set.

SHAPE TOP

Right mitten only

Round 57 (dec): Working from Chart B as set, K2tog, K to 2 sts before mrk, SSK, slm, K1, K2tog, K to 3 sts before mrk, SSK, K1. 4 sts dec’d.

Last round sets Right mitten shaping.

Left mitten only

Round 57 (dec): Working from Chart B as set, K1, K2tog, K to 3 sts before mrk, SSK, K1, slm, K2tog, K to 2 sts before mrk, SSK. 4 sts dec’d.

Last round sets Left mitten shaping.

Both mittens

Rounds 58-71: Cont working from Chart B, dec as set. 12 sts.

Break yarn and thread it through rem sts. Pull tight to fasten.

SIZE

To fit palm circumference: 22-24cm (8¾-9½in)

Actual palm circumference: 21½cm (8½in)

Total length: 28½cm (11¼in)

YARN

Jamieson & Smith 2 Ply Jumper Weight (4ply weight; 100% Shetland wool; 115m/125yds per 25g ball)

A FC44 Mix; 1 x 25g ball

B 80; 1 x 25g ball

C FC46 Mix; 1 x 25g ball

NEEDLES & ACCESSORIES

Set of 2.5mm (UK 12-13/US 1-2) doublepointed needles (DPNs) or circular needles, 60cm long, for Magic Loop method

Set of 3mm (UK 11/US 2-3) DPNs, or circular needles, 60cm long, for Magic Loop method

Stitch markers

Stitch holders

TENSION

30 sts and 40 rounds to 10cm over ribbing using 2.5mm needles.

30 sts and 31 rounds to 10cm over Chart patt using 3mm needles.

YARN STOCKISTS

Jamieson & Smith 01595 693579 www.shetlandwoolbrokers.co.uk

For general abbreviations, see p89

THUMB

Return 11 thumb sts to a 3mm needle.

Round 1: Working Round 1 of Chart C, pick up and knit 1 st from right side of thumb opening, K11, pick up and knit 1 st from left side of thumb opening in next colour from Chart, K 11 sts. 24 sts.

Rounds 2-23 : Cont working from Chart C.

Round 24 (dec): K1, K2tog, K7, SSK, K1, K2tog, K7, SSK. 4 sts dec’d.

Last round sets thumb decreases.

Rounds 25-27: Cont working from Chart C, dec as set. 8 sts.

Break yarn and thread through rem sts. Pull tight to fasten.

TO MAKE UP

Weave in ends and gently block to measurements, following any yarn care instructions on the ball bands.

Sunny Cowl

THIS DESIGN by Martin Storey features a large, stranded colourwork floral motif which is worked in a neutral shade throughout, while the background dramatically shifts from dark blue, to light blue, to a stand-out summery yellow. It’s knitted in Rowan’s Summerlite DK, a cotton yarn with a smooth feel and a matt look, and which comes in a wide choice of sophisticated shades. Martin’s project is worked in the round, then the cast-on and cast-off edges are joined.

COWL

Using 3.75mm needles and yarn A, cast on 112 sts.

Pm and join to work in the round, taking care not to twist sts.

BEGIN CHART PATTERN

Round 1: Work Chart, working 28-st rep 4 times.

Cont in patt until 92 rounds of Chart have been worked a total of 4 times.

Using yarn A, cast off sts knitwise.

MAKING UP

Block piece gently, following any yarn care instructions on the ball band.

Join cast-on and cast-off ends together.

SIZE

Circumference: 142cm (56in)

Depth: 22½cm (8¾in)

YARN

Rowan Summerlite DK (DK weight; 100% cotton; 130m/142yds per 50g ball)

A Seashell (466); 5 x 50g balls

B Indigo (450); 1 x 50g ball

C Favourite Denim (469); 2 x 50g ball

D Summer (453); 1 x 50g ball

NEEDLES & ACCESSORIES

3.75mm (UK 9/US 5) circular needles, no more than 40cm long Stitch marker

TENSION

25 sts and 26 rows to 10cm over patterned st st on 3.75mm needles

YARN STOCKISTS

Rowan www.knitrowan.com

For general abbreviations, see p89

KEY

This design is taken from the Rowan pattern collection Tea Garden, which has 10 elegant, garden-inspired designs by Martin Storey. To order a copy for £9.95 or to find details of your nearest stockist, visit www.knitrowan.com

“THIS BLANKET-TYPE colourwork dog

is knitted in the round with Shetland wool, using steeks at the front and neck openings,” says Outi Kater. “The coat is closed with buttons at the neck, and kept in place with a belt under the belly. Dogs come in all sizes and shapes, so all measurements are easily adjustable, but remember that this may affect the amount of yarn needed for the project. Never leave your dog wearing the coat unsupervised.”

BODY

Using 3.25mm circular needles, 60cm long, and yarn A, cast on 105 (129:161) sts. Pm and join to work in the rnd, taking care not to twist sts.

Set-up rnd: (K1 with yarn B, K1 with yarn A) 3 times, pm for end of steek, work Rnd 1 of Chart A to last 5 sts, working 4-st repeat 23 (29:37) times across, pm for beg of steek, (K1 with yarn A, K1 with yarn B) twice, K1 with yarn A.

94 (118:150) sts for Back, 11 sts for steek. This rnd sets vertical stripe patt for steek and sets position of Chart A. Work 6 more rnds in patt as set to complete Chart A.

Inc rnd : Using yarn A only, K6 steek sts, slm, K2, M1, K45 (57:73), M1, K45 (57:73), M1, K2, slm, K5 steek sts, slm. 97 (121:153) sts for Back, 11 sts for steek.

BEGIN COLOURWORK

Round 1: (K1 with yarn C, K1 with yarn D) 3 times for steek, slm, work Round 1 of Chart B to mrk, working 8-st repeat 12 (15:19) times across, slm, (K1 with yarn C, K1 with yarn D) twice, K1 with yarn C.

TeddyThis rnd sets position of Chart B. When working vertical stripe patt for steek, work in the colours used in the Chart B rnds.

Cont as set to complete Rounds 1-28 of Chart B a total of 3 (

Size 1 only Work rnds 1-7 once more.

Sizes 2 and 3 only Work rnds 1-21 once more.

All sizes 91 (105:133) rnds of Chart B have been worked, and the work should meas approx 30 (34:43) cm from cast-on edge.

NECK OPENING

Set up rnd: Keeping patt correct, patt 6 steek sts, slm, patt 33 (43:55) sts, SSK, pm for beg of neck steek, place next 27 (31:39) sts on hold for neck opening, using the backwards loop method cast on 11 new steek sts in vertical stripe patt as before, pm for end of neck steek, K2tog, patt 33 (43:55) sts, slm, patt 5 steek sts. 34 (44:56) sts for each side of neck, 11 sts for side steek, 11 sts for neck steek.

Dec rnd: Patt 6 steek sts, slm, patt to 2 sts before mrk, SSK, slm, patt 11 steek sts, slm, K2tog, patt to mrk, slm, patt 5 steek sts. 2 sts dec’d.

Keeping patt correct, work Dec rnd 16 more times. 17 (27:39) sts for each side of neck, 11 sts for side steek, 11 sts for neck steek.

Next rnd: Patt to end. Rep Dec rnd. 2 sts dec’d. Rep last 2 rnds 3 (4:5) more times.

13 (22:33) sts for each side of neck, 11 sts for side steek, 11 sts for neck steek.

Patt without shaping for 1 (13:25) more rnds, ending after a Rnd 6 (6:20) of Chart B.

The size of the neck opening can be adjusted here by adding or omitting 7-row chart repeats, but further adjustment can also be made by increasing or decreasing the number of rib rows in the button and buttonhole bands.

Next rnd: Cast off 6 steek sts, remove mrk, patt to mrk, remove mrk, cast off 11 steek sts, remove mrk, patt to mrk, remove mrk, cast off 5 steek sts.

13 (22:33) sts for each side of neck.

Break all yarns and place rem sts on holders for the button and buttonhole bands.

NEEDLES & ACCESSORIES

3.25mm (UK

NECKBAND

Using sharp scissors, carefully cut down the centre of the neck steek.

Set-up row: With RS facing and using yarn A, pick up and knit 26 (40:52) sts from right side of neck opening between last body st and first steek st, K27 (31:39) from neck holder, pick up and knit 25 (39:51) sts from left side of neck opening between last steek st and first body st. 78 (110:142) sts.

Work Rows 1-7 of Chart C, working 4-st repeat 19 (27:35) times across. Using yarn A, cast off in rib.

SIDE RIBBING

Using sharp scissors, carefully cut down the centre of the side steek.

With RS facing and using yarn A, pick up and knit 118 (142:182) sts from right front

edge between last steek st and first body st.

Work Rows 1-7 of Chart C, working 4-st repeat 29 (

Using yarn A, cast off in rib.

Repeat for Left Front edge.

BUTTON BAND

With RS facing and using yarn A, working across RH side, pick up and knit 7 (6:7) sts from top edge of side ribbing, knit 13 (22:33) sts from holder, pick up and knit 6 sts from right edge of neck band.

26 (

Work in Chart C patt, working 4-st repeat 6 (8:11) times across rows, for 19 rows or desired length.

Using yarn A, cast off in rib.

BUTTONHOLE BAND

With RS facing and using yarn A, working across LH side, pick up and knit 6 sts from left edge of neck band, knit 13 (22:33) sts from holder, pick up and knit 7 (6:7) sts from top edge of side ribbing. 26 (34:46) sts.

Work in Chart C patt, working 4-st repeat 6 (8:11) times across rows, until buttonhole band is 6 rows less than button band, ending after a WS row.

Next row (RS): Patt 6 (8:10) sts, cast off next 4 sts in patt, twisting yarns between each st, patt until you have 6 (10:18) sts on RH needle since cast-off, cast off 4 sts in patt as before, patt to end.

Next row (WS): Patt 6 (8:10) sts, using the backwards loop method cast on 4 sts in patt and twisting yarns between each stitch,

patt 6 (10:18)

on

A belt under the belly helps to keep the coat in place

as

in

MAKING UP

Weave in ends.

the steeks at the neck and front opening edges slightly. Hem them using blanket stitch, attaching them lightly to the floats in the body of the coat.

to measurements, following any yarn care instructions on the ball band. Sew on buttons to match buttonholes.

BELT

Using yarn A, cast on 14 (14:22) sts, or desired width in multiples of 4 plus 2 sts.

in Chart C patt for 20 (22:22) cm or desired length.

yarn A, cast off in rib.

Sew one end of belt onto hemmed steek sts on side ribbing, so that belt is at least 5cm behind the foreleg. Sew one part of the snap fastener on the other end of belt, and sew the remaining part of the fastener on the inside of the coat to match.

THREE-NEEDLE I-CORD CAST-OFF

THE THREE-needle cast-off is an excellent way to join the front and back of a sweater at the shoulders, as it creates a strong seam and a neat finish, and means you don’t have to do any sewing up! We explored this cast-off method in our masterclass in Issue 160 - and here, we’re looking at an interesting variation, which incorporates an i-cord to give a bold, decorative ridge along the seam.

METHOD

Start by placing the two pieces to be cast off on separate knitting needles.

1 Cast on three stitches to one of these needles, using the knitted cast-on method. These three stitches are the i-cord stitches.

2 Hold the piece with the i-cord stitches with the right side facing you, and the second piece behind it, so that the wrong sides of the pieces are facing each other and the two needles are parallel with their tips pointing to the right.

3 With a third knitting needle, knit two of the i-cord stitches, and then slip the third stitch purlwise onto the right needle.

4 Insert the right needle into the first stitch on both needles, and knit the two stitches together.

5 Using the tip of one of your left needles, lift the second stitch in from the right needle tip (the slipped stitch) over the stitch at the end of the right needle and off the needle.

6 Now slip the three stitches left on your right needle back onto the front left needle. Repeat steps 3 to 6 until all the project stitches are cast off and you are left with three i-cord stitches.

7 Lift the middle stitch over the left stitch and off the needle.

8 Lift the right stitch over the left stitch and off the needle, and then fasten off the remaining stitch.

years

YARN

little

in Bergère de France’s

aran-weight

which can be machine

at 30°C. It’s available in a choice

and brighter colours.

BACK

Using 5mm needles and yarn A, cast on 49 (53:57:59:63) sts.

Row 1: *K1, P1tbl; rep from * to last st, K1.

Row 2: *P1, K1tbl; rep from * to last st, P1. These 2 rows set Patterned 1x1 Rib. Rep last 2 rows twice more.

Change to 5.5mm needles. Work in st st until work meas 14 (18:22:24:25) cm from cast-on, ending after a WS row.

Next row (RS): Beg with st 2 (3:1:3:1) and ending with st 2 (1:2:1:2), work Row 1 of Chart.

Cont in patt as set until chart row 6 has been completed.

RAGLAN SHAPING

Cont to work chart until Row 23 of chart has been worked, then work in st st using yarn A only, and AT THE SAME TIME, work raglan shaping as foll:

Cast off 3 ( :4) sts at beg of next 2 rows. 43 (47:51:51

Dec row (RS): K1, K2tog, work in patt to last 3 sts, skpo, K1. 2 sts dec’d. Next row: Rep last 2 rows another 12 ( times.

Work 2 rows in st st. Cast off rem 17 (

LEFT FRONT

Using 5mm needles and yarn A, cast on 23 (25:27:29:31) sts.

Work 6 rows in Patterned 1x1 Rib as for Back, inc 1 (1:1:0:0) sts on final row. 24 (26:28:29:31) sts.

Change to 5.5mm needles. Work in st st until work meas 14 (18:22:24:25) cm from cast-on, ending after a WS row.**

Next row (RS): Beg with st 2 (3:1:3:1) and ending with st 1, work Row 1 of Chart. Cont in patt as set until Chart row 6 has been completed.

RAGLAN SHAPING

Cont to work chart until Row 23 of chart has been worked, then work in st st using yarn A only, and AT THE SAME TIME, work raglan shaping as foll: Cast off 3 (3:3:4:4) sts at beg of next row (RS). 21 (23:25:25:27) sts.

Next row: Purl.

NEEDLES AND ACCESSORIES

YARN STOCKISTS

Dec row (RS): K1, K2tog, work in patt to end. 1 st dec’d.

Next row: Purl. Rep last 2 rows another 10 (11:12:12:13) times.

10 (11:12:12:13) sts. Work 2 rows in st st.

LEFT FRONT NECK

Cast off 5 (6:7:7:8) at beg of next WS row, then cast off 2 sts at beg of foll WS row, then cast off 3 sts at beg of foll WS row.

RIGHT FRONT

Work as for Left Front to **.

Next row (RS): Beg with st 3 and ending with st 2 (1:3:1:2), work Row 1 of Chart. Cont in patt as set until chart row 7 has been completed.

RAGLAN SHAPING Cont to work chart until Row 23 of chart has been worked, then work in st st using yarn A only, and AT THE SAME TIME, work raglan shaping as foll: Cast off 3 (3:3:4:4) sts at beg of next row (WS).

(23:25:25:27) sts.

Next row: Knit.

Dec row (WS): P1, P2tog, work in patt to end. 1 st dec’d. Next row: Knit.

2 rows another 10 (11:12:12:13)

BERGÈRE

10 (11:12:12:13) sts.

Next row (WS): Purl.

RIGHT FRONT NECK

Cast off 5 (6:7:7:8) at beg of next RS row, then cast off 2 sts at beg of foll RS row, then cast off 3 sts at beg of foll RS row.

LEFT SLEEVE

Using 5mm needles and yarn A, cast on 29 (31:33:33:35) sts.

Work 6 rows in Patterned 1x1 Rib as for Back.

Change to 5.5mm needles. Work 4 ( :6) rows in st st, ending after a WS row.

Inc row (RS): K2, M1, work to last 2 sts, M1, K2. Rep Inc row on 2 ( 4th:6th: 4th 35 (

Sizes 1yr, 3yrs and 6yrs only Rep Inc row on 4 ( :4th: :4th) rows. 43 (

All sizes

Next row (WS): Purl.

Next row: Beg with st 2 (1:3:2:1) and ending with st 2 (3:1:2:3), work Row 1 of Chart.

Cont in patt as set until chart row 6 has been completed.

RAGLAN AND NECK SHAPING

Cont to work chart until Row 23 of chart has been worked, then work in st st using yarn A only, and AT THE SAME TIME, work raglan shaping as foll: Cast off 3 (3:3:4:4) sts at beg of next 2 rows. 37 (39:41:41:43) sts.

Dec row (RS): K1, K2tog, work in patt to last 3 sts, skpo, K1. 2 sts dec’d.

Next row: Purl. ***

Rep last 2 rows another 9 (10:11:11:12) times, then rep Dec row once more. 15 sts.

Next row (WS): Cast off 8 sts, P to end. 7 sts.

Next row: K1, K2tog, K to end. 6 sts.

Next row: Cast off 2 sts, P to end. 4 sts.

Next row: K1, K2tog, K to end. 3 sts

Next row: Purl.

Cast off rem 3 sts.

RIGHT SLEEVE

Work as for Left Sleeve to ***.

Rep last 2 rows another 10 (11:12:12:13) times. 15 sts.

Next row (RS): Cast off 8 sts, K to last 3 sts, skpo, K1. 6 sts.

Next row: Purl.

Next row: Cast off 2 sts, K to last 3 sts, skpo, K1. 3 sts.

Next row: Purl. Cast off rem 3 sts.

HOOD

Using 5mm needles and yarn A, cast on 97 (99:101:103:105) sts.

Work 6 rows in Patterned 1x1 Rib as for Back.

Change to 5.5mm needles. Work 2 (2:2:2:4) rows in st st.

Cast off 1 st at beg of next 2 rows. Rep last 4 (4:4:4:6) rows another 1 (2:2:2:0) times. 93 (93:95:97:103) sts.

Size 1yr only

Cast off 1 st at beg of next 2 rows, then 2 sts at beg of next 2 rows. 87 (-:-:-:-) sts.

Sizes 2yrs and 3yrs only Cast off 2 sts at beg of next 2 rows. - (89: 91:-:-) sts.

Size 4yrs only

Work 2 rows in st st.

Cast off 2 sts at beg of next 2 rows. - (-:-:93:-) sts.

Size 6yrs only

Work 2 rows in st st. Cast off 1 st at beg of next 2 rows. Rep last 4 rows once more. - (-:-:-:99) sts.

Work 2 rows in st st. Cast off 2 sts at beg of next 2 rows. - (-:-:-:95) sts.

All sizes

Work in st st until piece measures 14½ (16:16½:17:17½) cm from cast-on, ending after a WS row, marking central stitch with a mrk either side.

Dec row (RS): K to 2 sts before mrk, skpo, slm, K1, slm, K2tog, K to end. 2 sts dec’d. Next row: Purl.

Work last 2 rows once more. 83 (85:87:89:91) sts.

Dec row (RS): Cast off 4 sts, K to 2 sts before mrk, skpo, slm, K1, slm, K2tog, K to end. 2 sts dec’d.

Next row: Cast off 4 sts, P to end. Rep last 2 rows twice more. 53 (55:57:59:61) sts.

Dec row (RS): Cast off 5 sts, K to 3 sts before mrk, sk2po, slm, K1, slm, K3tog, K to end.

Next row: Cast off 5 sts, P to end. Rep last 2 rows once more. Cast off rem 25 (27:29:31:33) sts.

FINISHING

Using yarn A and 5mm needles, pick up and knit 46 (54:68:71:75) sts along each front edge.

Cast off all sts knitwise on the WS of work.

Join raglan seams. Sew the hood seam, then sew the hood around the neck edge. Sew the sleeve and side seams. Sew in zip. Secure and weave in all ends.

For more pattern inspiration for children from Bergère de France,

The cardigan is finished with a zip fastener

SASHA KAGAN

Cae Hir

Cushion

“THIS COLOURWORK cushion cover would make a welcome addition to a pastel-themed bedroom or boudoir,” says designer Sasha Kagan. “Knitted in Rowan’s Summerlite 4ply cotton and using only two colours per row, it makes for an easy knit. The cover is framed with a moss stitch border and crochet picot trim. The three-button closure and handy mobile phone pocket complete the project.”

SIZE

50cm x 50cm (19¾in x 19¾in)

YARN

Rowan Summerlite (4ply weight; 100% cotton; 175m/191yds per 50g ball)

A Pinched Pink (426); 2 x 50g balls

B Langoustino (440); 1 x 50g ball

C Blossom (444); 1 x 50g ball

D Buttermilk (421); 1 x 50g ball

E Blushes (420); 1 x 50g ball

F Vintage Claret (443); 1 x 50g ball

NEEDLES & ACCESSORIES

1 pair 2.25mm (UK 13/US 1) knitting needles

1 pair 3mm (UK 11/US 2-3) knitting needles

Stitch holders

2.5mm (UK 12/US C/2) crochet hook

3 buttons

50cm (19¾in) square cushion pad

FRONT

Using 2.25mm needles and yarn A, cast on 128 sts.

Row 1 (RS):

Row 2: *P1, K1; rep from * to end. These two rows form moss st. Rows 3–8:

Change to 3mm needles. Work 8-st Chart repeat in st st 16 times across each row from Rows 1 to 58, then repeat until piece meas 48cm from cast-on.

Change to 2.25mm needles and yarn A. Work 8 rows in moss st. Cast off.

RIGHT SIDE BAND

Using 2.25mm needles and yarn A, pick up 4 sts for each 5 rows from bottom right to top right corner (approx 130 sts). Work 8 rows in moss st. Cast off.

LEFT SIDE BAND

Work as for Right Side Band, picking up sts from top to bottom left corners.

BACK

POCKET LINING

Using 3mm needles and yarn C, cast on 28 sts.

Work 12cm in st st. Place sts on a holder.

BOTTOM SECTION WITH BUTTONHOLE BAND

Work as for Cushion Front until piece meas 12cm from cast-on edge.

TENSION

31 sts and 33 rows to 10cm over chart patt in st st using 3mm needles.

YARN STOCKISTS

Rowan 01484 668200 www.knitrowan.com

For general abbreviations, see p89

PLACE POCKET LINING

Work 50 sts in pattern, slip next 28 sts on to a holder and patt across 28 sts of pocket lining, patt rem 50 sts. Cont in patt until piece meas 24cm.

BUTTONHOLE BAND

Change to 2.25mm needles, with RS facing and yarn A.

Row 1 (RS): Knit.

Rows 2 and 3: Work in moss st.

Row 4 (Buttonhole row): Work 30 sts in moss st, *cast off 2 sts (1 st left on right needle), work a further 30 sts in moss st; rep from * once, cast off 2 sts (1 st left on right needle), work a further 29 sts in moss st. 122 sts.

Row 5: Cont in moss st, casting on 2 sts over each buttonhole. 128 sts.

Rows 6–8: Cont in moss st. Cast off.

POCKET TOP

Slip 28 sts from holder to 2.25mm needles, using yarn B.

The cushion has a little pocket to hold your mobile phone

The cushion pieces are joined using crochet seams

SASHA KAGAN

Row 1 (RS): Knit.

Work 8 rows in moss st. Cast off.

TOP SECTION WITH BUTTON BAND

Using 2.25mm needles and yarn A, cast on 128 sts. Work 8 rows in moss st.

Next row (RS): Knit.

Change to 3mm needles. Beg with Row 22 of Chart, work in chart patt until piece meas 24cm from cast-on edge.

Change to 2.25mm needles and yarn A. Work 8 rows in moss st. Cast off.

SIDE BANDS

Lightly tack bottom section over the top section so that button bands overlap with buttonholes on top. Work as for Front Left and Right Side Bands, picking up sts through both layers of buttonhole and button bands.

MAKING UP

Sew down pocket band and pocket lining. With right sides facing, lightly tack front and back sections together. Block gently to measurements, following any yarn care instructions on the ball band. Sew on buttons opposite buttonholes.

CROCHET TRIM

Using 2.5mm crochet hook and yarn A, join the four sides together as follows: Row 1: Working through the two layers of fabric throughout, ch 1, work 1 dc (US sc) in every other st around the 4 sides making 3 dc into each corner. Join with a sl st in first dc.

Row 2 (Picot trim): Join in yarn C, sl st in first 2 sts *sl st, ch 3, sl st back into first ch (picot made), sl st into next 2 sts; rep from * to end of round. Join with a sl st in first st. Fasten off.

Repeat the Crochet Trim as described along the top edge of the Buttonhole Band and Pocket Band.

Weave in ends and insert cushion pad.

Edgings and button bands are worked in moss stitch

A crochet picot trim is added to the sides and buttonhole band

Abbreviations

alt alternate approx approximately beg beginning ch chain

cn cable needle cont continue

dc double crochet (US single crochet) dec decrease (work two stitches together)

DK double knitting

DPN double-pointed needle

dtr double treble (US treble crochet) est established foll following inc increase

K knit

KFB knit into front and back of stitch

K2tog knit the next two stitches together kwise knitwise meas measures

M1 make one (see M1L)

M1pw make 1 st purlwise: with LH needle lift the strand between next and last st from front to back and purl through the back loop

M1L left leaning increase: with left needle tip, lift strand between needles from front to back. Knit lifted loop through back of loop

M1R right leaning increase: with left needle tip, lift strand between needles from back to front. Knit lifted loop through front of loop

MB make a bobble mrk marker

P purl patt pattern(s)

PB place bead

PFB purl into front and back of stitch

pm place marker prev previous psso pass slipped stitch over P2tog purl 2 stitches together

P3tog purl 3 stitches together pwise purlwise rem remain(ing) rep(s) repeat(s)

rev st st reverse stocking stitch

RH right hand

RS right side skpo slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over sk2po slip 1, knit 2 tog, pass slipped stitch over s2kpo slip 2 tog kwise, knit 1, pass slipped sts o

Sl slip

sl st slip stitch ss slip stitch (crochet) slm slip marker

SSK slip 2 stitches one at a time, return to LH needle, knit 2 slipped stitches together tbl SSP slip 2 stitches one at a time, return to LH needle, purl 2 slipped stitches together tbl st(s) stitch(es) st st stocking stitch tbl through back of loop tog together tr treble crochet (US double crochet) w&t wrap and turn WS wrong side wyib with yarn in back wyif with yarn in front yb take yarn back (no inc) yf bring yarn to front (no inc) yfwd yarn forward yo yarn over yrn yarn round needle

SCAN HERE…

To

Contacts

YARN SUPPLIERS

Bergère de France www.bergeredefrance.co.uk

By Laxtons www.bylaxtons.co.uk

Jamieson & Smith 01595 693579 www.shetlandwoolbrokers.co.uk John Arbon Textiles 01769 579861 www.jarbon.com King Cole/KC Collection 01756 703670 www.kingcole.com Lang www.langyarns.com Lily Kate Makes c/o Fyberspates www.fyberspates.com/retailers Marie Wallin www.mariewallin.com Rowan 01484 668200 www.knitrowan.com

The Fibre Co. 017687 79 292 www.thefibreco.com Uradale Yarns 07880 704606 www.uradale.com

BOOK PUBLISHERS

Abrams Books 01256 302699 www.abramsandchronicle. co.uk Boulder Books www.boulderbooks.ca GMC Books 01273 477374 www.gmcbooks.com Search Press 01892 510 850 www.searchpress.com

Pattern updates

Our archive of updates can be found at: www.gathered.how/theknitter

ISSUE 171

North Laine

Left and Right Front pocket cast-off row (after Fancy Rib): Next row (WS): P2 (1:7:4:6), *P2tog, P3 (2:5:5:10); rep from * another 2 (4:1:2:1) times, P2tog 1 (1:0:1:0) times , P2 (2:4:3:0), cast off next 26 sts in patt and AT THE SAME TIME dec 3 sts (1 st left on needle after castoff), P1 (1:4:2:10), P2tog, *P3 (2:5:5:10), P2tog; rep from * another 2 (4:1:2:0) times, P2 (2:5:4:5). 56 (61:68:74:78) sts.

Front neck shaping on Left and Right Front for 3rd size only: Sts count should increase to 66 (not 67), then decrease again to 65 (not 66) after working repeats of rows 2 and 3. Foll instruction should read: Work 6 rows, working T2R panels as set and dec 1 st as set on next and 2 (1:1:2:1) foll RS (4th:4th:RS:4th) rows, ending

after a RS row.

50 (56:63:68:73) sts.

Sleeve Rib instructions should read:

Next row: K1, *P1, K1; rep from * to end.

Next row: P1, *K1, P1; rep from * to end.

Finishing instructions should read: Join side seams between markers and sleeves, not ‘below markers’.

ISSUE 174 Uchiyama

The Cross Rib Pattern is a 22-row pattern, not 20- row.

The last instruction should read: Rows 17-22: Rep Rows 1 and 2 three times.

Rep Rows 7-22.

After completing the rib, instructions for the Back should read: Work in Cross Rib Pattern for 22 rows.

The setting of fleece

AUTUMN IS busy on the farm, and there are big yarn shows every other week. As I write this, I’ve just got back from Yarndale and I have not even unpacked my boxes.

I am off again tomorrow to The Knitting & Stitching show in London for a week. Somehow I squeezed in some good sheep work. I had everybody in for a good look at their body and fleece condition; to check their health and evaluate how their fleece is progressing. By the start of autumn there is already about two-thirds of the fleece set on the sheeps. Sheeps don’t wait for winter to lump on the wool, they have been doing that since shearing in mid-June.

Let’s talk about the development of fleece each year on the sheeps. After all, this is ultimately what wool farming is all about. I was chatting with folk at Yarndale and it struck me that there are a couple of common misconceptions about how, and when, fleece sets on the sheep, and when fleece cultivation benefits from my help. Misconception number one is that fleece sets in winter. It might increase during a severe period, but the bulk of wool is on the backs (also sides and bottom) of sheep by the end of October. Secondly, wool set is driven by the underlying health and condition of sheep, not by some mystic sheep’s knowledge of how severe the forthcoming winter will be.

I always want the sheep’s health to be as high as possible. As well as keeping the sheeps happy, good health in this period is to cultivate a better crop next year of high wool quality. Illnesses, sudden loss of condition through worms, drought, food shortage and so on all lead to poor wool quality and ‘breaks’ in the fibre. ‘Breaks’ are weak sections in the wool fibres that will cause breakage during spinning or slumpy yarn. The direct relationship between health and fleece is pronounced and immediate. So much so that the best way to realise there’s a problem with the sheep is when their fleece goes dull and coarse. Noticing when one or two are less than awesome suggests all need attention. So I pay attention! If only they would just say when they are a little off-colour - that would make my life easier, if less interesting.

So, after laying hands on all 287 sheeps on the farm, I am really happy. The fleece is superb! The Cheviots’ wool is deep and lustrous. So deep, I actually had difficulty finding the right bits to feel on the backsome lambs have at least five inches of fleece depth already! But the prize for best sheeps goes to the Castlemilk Moorits. Their fleece and general health are fabulous. I am so pleased with them all, they are glossy and plump. The lambs are growing far better than two years ago. They are larger, better proportioned with deep and brilliant fleeces. I am sure now that last year’s acute incident of coccidiosis had been bubbling away at subclinical

levels for a while, and it was the Castlemilks that suffered most severely.

The aim now is to not ruin all the sheeps’ hard work, and my new shed extension should help that. One reason for this big investment is so I can now bring the sheeps in for a night or two during prolonged periods of wet. If the fleece is wet for weeks it can start to rot while still on the animal. This does not usually hurt the sheep - I would not allow that - but it ruins the wool. The last few winters have seen long periods of heavy rain, and I might have lost as much as 10% of my crop. Now I can have them inside to dry periodically. Hopefully this will help protect the fabulous wool.

Before heading out to Yarndale, I sent off poo samples to get a worm count, to find out if I need to treat for this intestinal parasite. The count was high enough that I treated everyone. Roundworms suck condition out of sheep fast, and untreated this could lead to unthrifty sheeps for breeding and a poor fleece set. I found three girls very thin, and have isolated them for treatment. Two had difficult pregnancies last year, and while both raised their lambs well they will need extra food to bring them back to their best selves. One had an infectious footrot and was crippled. She got a shot of antibiotics and a painkiller. She has stopped limping and is feeling better, so I can go down to London without worrying about her.

BY GRAEME BETHUNE

Graeme Bethune explains how the health of his sheep at this time of year is critical for the growth of good wool

Graeme has been busy caring for his sheep to ensure they produce fine wool for his yarns