theknitter1552020 by bortnikova

Christmas Collection Silent Night, Fairy Lights, Holly Berry, Candy Cane & Robin Find your nearest stockist at wyspinners.com 01535 664500 sales@wyspinners.com

Issue 155 Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re celebrating cables in this issue, and along with cosy designs from Emma Vining in our supplement and Juliet Bernard on p56, we have top tips from leading experts, plus a masterclass on cabling without a cable needle. We also take a look at British sheep breed yarns on p32, and bring you a feminine jumper from Jennie Atkinson on p38.

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TheKnitterMag

ravelry.com/groups/the-knitter

Create • Knit • Enjoy

65 Patterns 8 OKSANA DYMYD Bereza Draping sweater with a yoke pattern of stripes and bobbles

24 OUTI KATER Moonvine Two-colour stranded colourwork tank top 29 SARAH HATTON Bethóc Textured socks 38 JENNIE ATKINSON Cybele Boat-neck jumper in a clingy two-colour rib fabric

43 SARAH HATTON Dilys Yoked cardigan for girls with slip stitch pattern details

The Knitter 04 Issue 155

49 DARIO TUBIANA Monte Pelmo Men’s cabled cardigan 56 JULIET BERNARD Tollymore Cabled hat 60 SANDRA NESBITT Gwenvor Cropped cardigan 65 LISA RICHARDSON Iman Delicate lace wrap 69 JODY LONG Arran Classic cabled jumper PLUS EMMA VINING Southbank Cabled women’s sweater

Contents

38 46

SPOTLIGHT

Wild Shetland

Good reads

Expertise

Plus...

14 THE KNITTER LOVES News, products & patterns

32 YARN REVIEWS We test six British yarns from native sheep breeds

22 SUBSCRIBE UK Save a massive 40% when you subscribe today!

34 BOOK REVIEWS We review a book of cosy Newfoundland accessories

74 BACK ISSUES How to access the patterns in The Knitter’s archives

58 MASTERCLASS Step-by-step guide to cabling without a cable needle

79 NEXT MONTH A sneak peek at what’s inside Issue 156

81 INFORMATION Abbreviations, errata and stockist details

80 SUBSCRIBE OVERSEAS International subscribers save up to 70%

36 CASTLEMILK MOORITS Meet this rare sheep breed 46 SHETLAND DIALECT We examine the origins of the island’s knitting language 53 CABLES FOCUS Explore this great technique 82 CARTREF YARN Discover special Welsh wools

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The Knitter 05 Issue 155

8-PAGE PU L L OU T

Don’t miss an issue! Make sure you receive every issue of The Knitter – delivered direct to your door. TURN TO PAGE 22 FOR GREAT SUBSCRIPTION OFFERS

New season Projects include sweaters, cardigans, socks and a shawl

EDITORIAL Commissioning Editor Kirstie McLeod Operations Editor Helen Spedding Art Editors Sarah Clark, Jude Curle Technical Editor Faye Perriam-Reed Technical Assistant Jen Bartlett

Autumn inspiration It’s time to cast on and get creative with projects for the new season! Let us inspire you with modern Fair Isle and lace, classic cables and textured stitches, including designs for men, women and children. We look to Shetland this month, as Viveka Velupillai delves into the roots of the island’s unique knitting dialect. We also discover the story behind a new Shetland yarn from West Yorkshire Spinners.

Digital Assistant Sarah Winsper Photography Philip Sowels, Jesse Wild

CONTRIBUTORS Jennie Atkinson, Juliet Bernard, Rhian Drinkwater, Oksana Dymyd, Thelma German, Tricia Gilbert, Sarah Hatton, Mary Henderson, Carol Ibbetson, Outi Kater, Ashley Knowlton, Jennifer May, Dario Tubiana, Viveka Velupillai, Emma Vining, Rosee Woodland

ADVERTISING 0117 300 8206 Senior Advertising Manager Penny Stokes UK & International Business Manager Rachael Hawkins Senior Brand Sales Executive Tiff Jackson

MARKETING & SUBSCRIPTIONS Subscriptions Marketing Executive Kate Jones

CIRCULATION Newstrade Marketing Manager Janine Smith

PRODUCTION Production Coordinator Lauren Morris Production Manager Louisa Molter/Rose Griffiths Production Director Sarah Powell

LICENSING Director of Licensing & Syndication Tim Hudson

HAPPY KNITTING!

PUBLISHING

from The Knitter team

Managing Director, Craft Kerry Lawrence Managing Director, Bristol Andy Marshall Chief Executive Officer Tom Bureau

Our featured designers

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GET IN TOUCH

Oksana Dymyd

Emma Vining

Dario Tubiana

After winning awards for her work from the UK Hand Knitting Association, Oksana Dymyd worked as a designer for Sirdar. She is now an independent designer, and enjoys combining stitch patterns to create unusual knitted fabrics. Turn to page 8 for her yoked jumper design.

Emma is known for her exquisite stitch patterns, many of which have been influenced by historical artefacts and architecture. This month, Emma has created a richly cabled sweater using a brand-new Shetland yarn from West Yorkshire Spinners. Find it in our special supplement.

Italian designer Dario loves to play with colourwork, construction and stitches to create handsome sweaters and accessories His latest project for The Knitter is a chunky, cabled cardigan for men, brightened with bold stripes of colour. Dario’s pattern is on page 49.

Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited (company number 05715415) is registered in England and Wales. The registered oﬃce of Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited is at Vineyard House, 44 Brook Green, London W6 7BT. All information contained in this magazine is for information only and is, as far as we are aware, correct at the time of going to press. Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited cannot accept any responsibility for errors or inaccuracies in such information. Readers are advised to contact manufacturers and retailers directly with regard to the price of products/services referred to in this magazine. If you submit unsolicited material to us, you automatically grant Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited a licence to publish your submission in whole or in part in all editions of the magazine, including licensed editions worldwide and in any physical or digital format throughout the world. Any material you submit is sent at your risk. Although every care is taken, neither Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited nor its employees agents or subcontractors shall be liable for loss or damage. We abide by IPSO’s rules and regulations. To give feedback about our magazines, please visit immediate.co.uk, email editorialcomplaints@ immediate.co.uk or write to Kerry Lawrence, The Knitter, Immediate Media Co. Ltd, Eagle House, Colston Avenue, Bristol BS1 4ST, UK PRINTED IN THE UK by William Gibbons. Distributed by Frontline

The Knitter 06 Issue 155

Immediate Media Company Ltd, Eagle House, Colston Avenue, Bristol BS1 4ST United Kingdom Phone: 0117 927 9009 Email: theknitter@immediate.co.uk

Next issue on sale Thursday 15 October

OKSANA DYMYD

Bereza

Delicate stripes and bobbles cascade from the yoke of this comfortable sweater

The Knitter

Issue 155

Bereza

The yoked design is knitted top-down

SIZE TO FIT BUST

ACTUAL BUST ACTUAL LENGTH SLEEVE SEAM

NEEDLES & ACCESSORIES

86-91

97-102

107-112

117-122

34-36

38-40

42-44

46-48

115

125

134

145

45¼

49¼

52¾

22¾

23½

24¼

18½

OKSANA DYMYD

A MUGWORTH (372)

x100g BALLS

Bereza

B SANDY BEACH (606)

x100g BALLS

Using 3.25mm circular needles, 80-120cm long, and yarn A, cast on 190 (206:222:238) sts. Pm and join to work in the rnd, taking care not to twist sts. Rib rnd: *K1, P1; rep from * to end. Rep rib rnd another 7 times. Dec rnd: K7 (4:1:9), [K6 (7:8:8), K2tog] 22 times, K7 (4:1:9). 168 (184:200:216) sts.

YOKE PATTERN Rnd 1: *P1 in yarn A, K3 in yarn B; rep from * to end. Rnd 2: *P1 in yarn A, K3 in yarn B, MB1 in yarn A, K3 in yarn B; rep from * to end. Rnds 3 to 6: Rep Rnd 1 another 4 times. Rnd 7: *MB1 in yarn A, K3 in yarn B, P1 in yarn A, K3 in yarn B; rep from * to end. Rnd 8: *P1 in yarn A, (KFB, K2) in yarn B, P1 in yarn A, (K2, KFB) in yarn B; rep from * to end. 210 (230:250:270) sts. Rnds 9 to 12: *P1 in yarn A, K4 in yarn B; rep from * to end.

28 sts and 36 rows to 10cm over st st on 3.25mm needles

Novita www.novitaknits.com

Novita Venla (4ply weight; 75% wool, 25% polyamide; 420m/460yds per 100g ball)

YOKE

TENSION

YARN STOCKISTS

YARN

THIS DRAPING jumper by Oksana Dymyd is worked from the top down. The yoke section features a pattern of contrast-colour lines and bobbles; the same shade is used for the ribbed neckline, hem and long cuffs. Novita’s Venla yarn gives the garment a soft, light feel, and is available in a choice of pastels and bright colours.

3.25mm (UK 10/US 3) circular needles, 80-120cm long 4mm (UK 8/US 6) circular needles, 80-120cm long Stitch holders

Rnd 13: *P1 in yarn A, K4 in yarn B, MB2 in yarn A, K4 in yarn B; rep from * to end. Rnd 14: *P1 in yarn A, (K3, KFB) in yarn B, P1 in yarn A, (KFB, K3) in yarn B; rep from * to end. 252 (276:300:324) sts. Rnds 15 to 19: *P1 in yarn A, K5 in yarn B; rep from * to end. Rnd 20: *MB2 in yarn A, K5 in yarn B, P1 in yarn A, K5 in yarn B; rep from * to end. Rnd 21: *P1 in yarn A, (KFB, K4) in yarn B, P1 in yarn A, (K4, KFB) in yarn B; rep from * to end. 294 (322:350:378) sts. Rnds 22 to 28: *P1 in yarn A, K6 in yarn B; rep from * to end. Rnd 29: *P1 in yarn A, K6 in yarn B, MB3 in yarn A, K6 in yarn B; rep from * to end. Rnd 30: *P1 in yarn A, (KFB, K4, KFB) in yarn B; rep from * to end. 378 (414:450:486) sts. Rnds 31 to 38: *P1 in yarn A, K8 in yarn B; rep from * to end. Rnd 39: *MB3 in yarn A, K8 in yarn B, P1 in yarn A, K8 in yarn B; rep from * to end. Rnd 40: *P1 in yarn A, (KFB, K6, KFB) in yarn B; rep from * to end. 462 (506:550:594) sts. Rnds 41 to 42: *P1 in yarn A, K10 in yarn B; rep from * to end. Rnds 43 to 49: *K11 in yarn B, P1 in yarn A, K10 in yarn B; rep from * to end. Rnd 50: *K11 in yarn B, MB3 in yarn A, K10 in yarn B; rep from * to end. Rnds 51 to 52: Rep Rnd 43 twice. Break off yarn A and cont with yarn B only. Rnd 53: Knit.

The Knitter 10 Issue 155

Sizes M, L and XL only Rnd 54: *K-(103:112:119), [K-(20:22:24), KFB] 7 times, K-(3:2:3); rep from * once more. - (520:564:608) sts. All sizes Work in st st until work meas 26 (28:29:30) cm.

DIVIDE FOR SLEEVES AND BODY Rnd 1: [Slip 85 (100:110:117) sts onto a holder for sleeve, K146 (160:172:187), cast on 15 (15:16:16) sts] twice. Pm and join to work in the rnd. 322 (350:376:406) body sts.

BODY Work in st st until work meas 55 (57:59:61) cm. Change to yarn A. Next rnd: *K30 (33:35:38), K2tog; rep from * 9 more times, K2 (0:6:6). 312 (340:366:396) sts.

HEM Rib rnd: *K1, P1; rep from * to end. Work another 8 rnds of rib. Cast off in rib.

SLEEVES (both alike) With RS facing, rejoin yarn B and K85 (100:110:117) sleeve sts, cast on 15 (15:16:16) sts. 100 (115:126:133) sts.

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Bereza

P4tog: Purl four sts together. MB1: Make bobble 1 as folls: [(K1, P1) 3 times, K1] all into next st, turn, K7, turn, P7, turn, (K2tog) 3 times, K1, turn, P4tog. MB2: Make bobble 2 as folls: [(K1, P1) twice, K1] all into next st, turn, K5, turn, P5, turn, (K2tog) twice, K1, turn, P3tog. MB3: Make bobble 3 as folls: (K1, P1) twice into next st, turn, K4, turn, P4, turn, (K2tog) twice, turn, P2tog. For general abbreviations, see p81

BLOCKING DIAGRAM

58 (60:62:64) cm

SPECIAL ABBREVIATIONS

57½ (62½:67:72½) cm 46 ( 47:4 8:48 ) cm

THE YARN GIVES THE GARMENT A SOFT, LIGHT FEEL

The loose-fitting sleeves end with long ribbed cuffs

Starting with a purl row, work in st st until sleeve meas 5cm, ending with a WS row. Change to 4mm needles. Work in st st until sleeve meas 30cm, ending with a WS row. Next row (RS): K3 (0:0:3), *K1, K2tog; rep from * to last 4 (1:3:4) sts, knit to end. 69 (77:85:91) sts.

CUFF Change to yarn A. Rib row 1 (WS): *K1, P1; rep from * to last st, K1. Rib row 2 (RS): *P1, K1; rep from * to last st, P1. Cont in rib until cuff meas 6 (6:7:7) cm, ending with a WS row. Dec row (RS): K1, P2tog, K2tog, *P1, K1; rep from* to last 6 sts, P1, K2tog, P2tog, K1. 65 (73:81:87) sts. Work in rib until cuff meas 11 (11:12:12) cm, ending with a WS row. Rep Dec row. 61 (69:77:83) sts. Work in 1x1 rib until cuff meas 16 (17:18:18) cm, ending with a WS row. Cast off in rib.

TO MAKE UP Join sleeve and armhole seams. Weave in ends. Block garment gently to measurements, following any yarn care instructions on the ball band.

The Knitter 11 Issue 155

Bereza

The garment is designed to be worn with lots of positive ease

A GIFT IN YOUR WILL FOR EVERY DOG AND CAT Here at Battersea we understand that these are difﬁcult and unsettling times. That’s why more than ever, we need your help to ensure we can be here for every dog and cat for as long as we’re needed. A gift in your Will to Battersea is a promise to be there for dogs and cats in the future. If you feel able to help, any gift you give, whatever size, will help ensure Battersea can continue to support the

animals who need us. If you have any questions, or need support with the process, we are here to help you. The quickest way to get in touch with us is on: Phone: 020 7627 9300 Email: specialgifts@battersea.org.uk Website: battersea.org.uk/wills

TO FIND OUT MORE CALL 020 7627 9300, EMAIL SPECIALGIFTS@BATTERSEA.ORG.UK OR RETURN THIS FORM We are still sending out information in the post, however this may take a bit longer than usual to reach you. The data you’ve provided will be used by Battersea Dogs & Cats Home to contact you about leaving a gift in your Will. For more information about how we use your data, visit battersea.org.uk/privacy Return form to Supporter Services: Freepost RTLJ-ETCZ-SCCZ, Battersea Dogs & Cats Home, 4 Battersea Park Road, London SW8 4AA

Mrs

Other

Name Address

Postcode Battersea Dogs & Cats Home is a charity registered in England and Wales (206394).

AG105

…ideas, websites, patterns, events, inspiration and more! MODERN LACE

Jeanette Sloan is the star designer behind the latest instalment of the MDK Field Guides series, produced by the Modern Daily Knitting team. MDK Field Guide No. 15: Open explores the possibilities of openwork stitches, and offers five chic, beautiful projects for women. ‘Mood Cardigan’ is a swingy, cocoon-like cardigan, decorated with a textured lace pattern and edged with mitred ribbing. The ‘Clerestory’ shawl is a trapezoid worked edge to edge, in either a light 4ply or aran yarn for dramatically different results. For lace novices, there’s a rib lace scarf and the ‘Tumbling Block’ scarf, with simple, pretty stitch patterns. The ‘Aperture Stole’ combines two elegant lace motifs with a marled fabric. E-book $9 from Ravelry.com, or order a print + PDF copy for $14.95 (plus shipping) from www.moderndailyknitting.com

Knit a rainbow UK Alpaca now sells bright hand-dyed DK yarns created by indie dyers including Rosie’s Moments www.ukalpaca.com 01884 243 579

MEET SHEEPSOFT

Laxtons, the Yorkshire worsted mill, is known for spinning yarn for a host of brands, such as Rowan, Erika Knight and Debbie Bliss. Now it has launched its very own hand-knitting yarn, called Sheepsoft. It’s a 100% British blend of Bluefaced Leicester and Masham wool, which comes in 4ply, DK and aran weights; the palette of heathered shades and marled colours was inspired by the Yorkshire moors and dales. Sheepsoft is available to buy direct from the new By Laxtons website. www.bylaxtons.co.uk

Share the knits you’ve made using West Yorkshire Spinners yarn, and chat with other knitters, at WYS Crafter’s Hub, a new private closed Facebook group. There will be monthly mystery giveaways, too - an added incentive to join! www.facebook.com/groups/wyscrafters

The Knitter 14 Issue 155

STYLISH SEAMLESS DESIGNS

NEW BOOKS

Our pick of the best pattern collections and e-books TRADITIONAL DUTCH GANSEYS FOR CHILDREN by Stella Ruhe Following her two books of adult patterns recreating authentic Dutch fishing ganseys, Stella Ruhe brings us more than 40 handsome, textured sweaters for children aged one to 14 years. Each charted design is accompanied by vintage photographs of the original piece, and fascinating historical details about the gansey knitting tradition in the Netherlands. Search Press, £17.99

SWITCH & KNIT STITCH DICTIONARY by Tabetha Hedrick Unleash your creativity with this practical book. It offers pattern ‘recipes’ which can be knitted using your own choice of yarn and any of the 85 four-stitch patterns in the stitch dictionary. Projects include a pullover, cardigan and tunic, a shawl, a scarf, socks, mitts and more. If you’ve yet to try customising a pattern, this will be a great introduction and will give you the confidence you need. £19.99, Stackpole Books

Magazine 68

ISSUE SEVEN: MICHIGAN

by Rowan Yarn company Rowan has put together a really attractive array of patterns for its latest seasonal collection. Knitting & Crochet Magazine 68 has three main design themes - ‘City Tweed’, ‘Seamless’, and ‘Homewear’ and there’s lots to tempt keen knitters. The ‘City Tweed’ chapter offers classic wardrobe staples for work and casual wear. Mix-and-match capsule pieces include pullovers, cardigans, and ponchos, all designed by Martin Storey using Felted Tweed.

‘Seamless’ is an appealing collection of projects knitted seamlessly. There are stylish yoked sweaters and cardigans, a pencil skirt, cabled ponchos by Martin Storey, and modern ways with colourwork from Kristen TenDyke and Arne & Carlos. Finally, the ‘Homewear’ section has cosy knits for you and your home - such as comfy sweaters, slippers, blankets, wraps and cushions - created by Erika Knight. www.knitrowan.com 01484 668200

The Knitter 15 Issue 155

by Nomadic Knits The latest edition in the Nomadic Knits series celebrates the state of Michigan, and showcases the work of its local indie dyers. It contains 12 projects for women from designers including Ann Budd, Kate Atherley and Christina Danaee, with patterns for sweaters, cardigans, socks, mitts, hats and cowls. $22 from www.nomadicknits.com

Haworth Tweed by Sirdar New from Sirdar for the autumn-winter season is Haworth Tweed, a blend of organic merino wool and nylon which comes in a palette of 12 rustic, tweedy shades reflecting the colours of Yorkshire’s landscapes. Accompanying the new yarn is a collection of women’s pattern leaflets, sized to fit busts of 32in-54in. Styles include a pretty flared jumper with a Fair Isle yoke, and a cardigan with colourwork panels around the bottom. Cables feature heavily in the collection, and there’s an Aran-inspired drop-sleeve cardigan, a loose fit sweater decorated with ropes and horseshoe cables, a longline cabled cardigan, and a cosy roll-collar poncho. A feminine jumper design has small cables and columns of diamonds formed from bobbles. Argyle-like diamonds of colour brighten a classic round-neck jumper in shades of Millstone Grey and Yorkshire Stone; two stone-grey shades are also used for a relaxed V-neck sweater, while a V-neck cardigan with mock cable details looks lovely in the Hockney Blue shade. Yarn £3.95 per 50g/165m ball; pattern leaflets £3.49 each. www.sirdar.com

2 3

1 +3 Cables feature extensively in the pattern collection 2 Pretty colourwork decorates the yoke of this feminine sweater

COSY SWEATERS Three styles to keep you toasty this autumn

ONE SWEATER TEXTURE

GRISEDALE

AILSA

by Becky Baker

by Lisa Richardson

by Wendy Jane Paterson

Price £9.60 for the pattern, or £56–£185 for a complete knitting kit (includes The Fibre Co. Cumbria yarn). www.thefibreco.com

Price From £188 for the complete knitting kit (includes Rowan Moordale yarn). www.lisarichardson.co.uk

Price £6 for a downloadable PDF pattern. www.lovecrafts.com

The Knitter 16 Issue 155

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R O W A N The Art Of Knitting

Kinross by Georgia Farrell | Knitting & Crochet Magazine 68

Lace adventures with Belinda

LOCAL HEROES This month, we explore the fantastic yarn shops of Suffolk

Belinda Harris-Reid, the designer and owner of The Knitting Hotel, has been busy creating new lace patterns during lockdown. Among Belinda’s new designs is ‘Quarter’, a large, swishy shawl featuring stripes and textures, which is knitted in a diamond shape. Huge lace holes make an impact on the aptly named ‘Holy Moly’ shawl, while ‘Extra Spicy’ incorporates 2000 tiny beads, a delicate lace stitch, and garter stitch short-row wedges in a contrast colour. Belinda has also added hand-dyed colours to her range of luxurious undyed yarns. These have been created by Fiona HamiltonMacLaren of A Little Bit Sheepish, in colours inspired by jazz music. www.belindaharrisreid.co.uk

The Knitter’s Attic Pump Corner, Bredfield, Woodbridge IP13 6AH Run by a team of enthusiastic knitters, this shop has an exciting range of yarns from around the world. Brands include Malabrigo, Araucania, West Yorkshire Spinners, Juniper Moon Farm, Schoppel Wolle, Fyberspates and Debbie Bliss. The shop also stocks Pump Corner Yarns, which are hand-dyed locally in Suffolk – why not treat yourself to their special yarn advent calendar this year? Make an appointment to visit this lovely store, or shop online. www.theknittersattic.co.uk 01394 547077

+DSS\ ELUëGD\ The Dutch yarn company Scheepjes is proudly celebrating its 165th anniversary www.scheepjes.com; www.instagram.com/scheepjes

Yarndale will be going online this year, with a virtual festival called Yarndale@Home on 26-27 September. The team is also selling an exclusive colourway of West Yorkshire Spinners Signature sock yarn, called ‘Yarndale Hope’. www.yarndale.co.uk

DELIGHTS AT LOOP The staff at London yarn store Loop are delighted to have opened their doors again, and are welcoming customers back with a range of lovely new products. Among the new yarns in stock is a sportweight merino from Tôt le Matin, which is hand-dyed in Normandy in a range of delicious colours. Also on the shelves is Brooklyn Tweed’s new Dapple wool-cotton blend, and new shades of Malabrigo’s popular Rios yarn. The shop has also launched a new series of workshops via the video conferencing app Zoom. www.loopknittingshop.com 020 7288 1160

The Woolpatch Aerial House, Hall Street, Long Melford CO19 9JR The Woolpatch is a friendly little shop in the centre of the historic wool town of Long Melford. It’s filled with popular yarns from the likes of Rowan, Scheepjes, West Yorkshire Spinners, Adriafil, King Cole and DROPS, along with haberdashery, fabrics, and gifts from local independent makers. Currently open to customers on selected days of the week – visit the website or call for more updates. www.thewoolpatch.com 01787 313452

The Wool Baa 187 Hamilton Road, Felixstowe IP11 7DT A welcoming shop with a great community spirit, The Wool Baa has a range of popular yarns by King Cole, Stylecraft, Sirdar and Scheepjes. It also boasts a cute little café selling delicious cakes and coffee. Now open for socially distanced shopping! www.facebook.com/TheWoolBaa Felixstowe/ 01394 671186

PopCraft 7 Broad Street, Eye IP23 7AF Specialising in crochet, knitting and needlecrafts, this shop in Eye is filled with colour! Brands to choose from include Sirdar, Stylecraft, West Yorkshire Spinners and Knit Pro. The shop is currently open Tuesday-Saturday, but check online for updates or call Katie. www.popcraft.co.uk 01379 309518

Tell us about your shop! theknitter@immediate.co.uk The Knitter 18 Issue 155

Hand Dyed Yarns from North East Scotland bowfiddleyarns.com

f o f r 10 % n i t te 10use K

Nellie and Eve Plant Dyed Yarns and Wool Workshops British wool yarns, hand-dyed using natural botanicals at our Carmarthenshire studio. Our unique range of colours are inspired by the landscape of a Welsh mountain Ĺ&#x2DC; Ć&#x17E; Ę ĆŹÇĄĆŹĆ&#x2039;Ç&#x153; Ç&#x153;Ç&#x2019;ĆŹ Ć&#x2039;Ç&#x2019;Ĺ&#x2DC; Ç&#x201D; Ę&#x160;ĆŹĹ&#x2DC;Ę&#x160; Ę&#x160;Ć&#x2013; Creative workshops in spinning, dyeing Ĺ&#x2DC; Ć&#x17E; Ç&#x2DC; Ç&#x201D;Ç&#x153;Ç&#x153;Ç&#x201D; Ĺ&#x2DC;Ę ĆŹ Ç?ĆŹĘ ĆŹĆ&#x17E; Ç&#x152; Ę Ĺ&#x2DC;Ç&#x161;Ç&#x161; Ĺ&#x2DC;Ĺ˝Ç&#x201D;Ç&#x161;Ç&#x201D;Ç&#x153;Ç&#x201D;ĆŹĘ&#x160;Ć&#x2013;

www.nellieandeve.com

Nordic Wool DK 100 % Wool 12 colors

Nordic Yarns and Design since 1928 FOLLOW US ON

@NOVITAKNITS

Free patterns & Nordic inspiration at WWW.NOVITAKNITS.COM RESELLERS: John Lewis â&#x20AC;˘ Woolwarehouse â&#x20AC;˘ Deramores â&#x20AC;˘ Lovecrafts

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Learn new skills this autumn

Our favourite knitting shows

Missing the opportunity to take a knitting workshop at your local yarn store? Many experts are now offering online courses, so you can learn new techniques at home. Carol Feller is hosting video tutorials on the basics of brioche knitting, along with more advanced classes to help you to work through a pattern for a brioche shawl or cardigan. Find out more at www.stolenstitches.com. Anniken Allis is a much-loved teacher whose online courses include Scandinavian colourwork and steeking, professional finishing techniques, and Continental knitting. Visit www.yarnaddict.co.uk for details.

1 2 ARCTIC KNITTING Join Emelie as she tries her hand at dyeing yarn with avocados http://bit.ly/arcticavo

1 Carol Feller offers online classes on modifying garment fit, and brioche knitting 2 Improve your finishing techniques with Anniken Allis

,Q ëH EDJ Bright and practical, this ‘Aztec Tiles’ design by Wendy Kippax is available from Deramores Pattern £1.20, complete kits £13 from www.deramores.com

VIP SUBSCRIBERS! WIN!

WILD & WOOLLY Listen to a ‘Knit 15’ talk on the issue of colour pooling with hand-dyed yarns http://bit.ly/wildknit15

Every month, three of our subscribers will win a prize as a thank-you for their loyalty to The Knitter. This month, the winners (below) will each receive a copy of Hitomi Shida’s inspiring book, Japanese Knitting Stitch Bible, worth £14.99. Check your issue next month to see if you’re a winner of our Subs Stars draw!

WIN! FRUITY KNITTING Cecelia Campochiaro discusses her experiments with marled knitting www.fruityknitting.com

HELPING HANDS Knitting (and all that hand washing!) can take its toll on your hands. Rehydrate your dry skin with Lotil, a non-greasy, unscented and easily absorbed hand cream that also has antiseptic properties. Lotil is stocked at independent pharmacies and online, and two of our readers can win an assortment of moisturising hand cream, foot cream and lip balm worth over £20 each. To enter our giveaway, head online to: www.gathered.how/competitions/ the-knitter-competitions/ For the range, visit www.lotil.co.uk OPEN TO UK ENTRANTS ONLY. CLOSING DATE IS 11PM ON 14 OCTOBER 2020. FOR T&C VISIT WWW.GATHERED.HOW/COMPETITION-TERMS-AND-CONDITIONS

WINNERS THIS ISSUE! H Filer Crawley P Court Sandy V Barclay Tonbridge Immediate Media Company, publishers of The Knitter, Subs Stars giveaway Terms and Conditions: Prizes were dispatched before the on-sale date of this issue. There are no cash alternatives. Three winning entries will be chosen at random from all current subscribers. The draw is final and no correspondence will be entered into.

The Knitter 20 Issue 155

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OUTI K ATER

Moonvine

Beautiful floral colourwork in harmonising shades of Shetland wool adorns this tank top The Knitter

Issue 155

Moonvine The top is knitted in the round, with steeks for the neck and arm openings

SIZE TO FIT BUST

ACTUAL BUST

ACTUAL LENGTH

1XL

2XL

3XL

81-86

92-97

102-107

112-117

122-127 132-137 142-147

32-34

36-38

40-42

44-46

48-50

52-54

56-58

88½

99½

110½

121½

132½

143½

154½

34¾

43½

56½

52½

56½

57½

20¾

21¼

21¾

22¼

22¾

23¾

YARN Jamieson & Smith 2ply Jumper Weight (4ply weight; 100% wool; 115m/125yds per 25g ball) OUTI KATER

A SHADE 21

x 25g BALLS

Moonvine

B SHADE 131

x25g BALLS

“THIS DESIGN in two shades of blue uses a vertical floral stitch throughout, reminding me of a garden in the moonlight,” says Outi Kater. “It is knitted in the round, with extra steek stitches to create ‘bridge’ fabric which is cut to create arm and neck openings. If Shetland wool is used, there is no need to strengthen the steeks with machine stitch, as they will not unravel.” Outi’s vest is knitted in Jamieson & Smith’s 2ply Jumper Weight Shetland wool.

All sizes Working in st st (knit every round) and beg with stitch 9 (1:9:1:9:1:9) each round, work rounds 1-34 of Chart. Work rnds 5-34 of Chart once more. Work rnds 5-28 of Chart once more, placing an underarm marker after stitch 128 (144:160:176:192:208:224) on final rnd. Break both yarns.

SHAPE ARMHOLES

VEST Using 2.75mm circular needles, 80cm long, yarn A, and the long-tail method, cast on 204 (228:252:276:300:324:352) sts. Pm and join to work in the round, taking care not to twist sts.

BODY Rib round: *K1, P1; rep from * to end. Repeat rib round another 14 times. Work meas approx 3.5cm from cast-on. Sizes XS to 2XL only Inc round: *K1, (M1, K4) 12 times, (M1, K3) 1 (5:9:13:17:21:-) times, (M1, K4) 12 times, M1, K2; rep from * once more. 256 (288:320:352:384:416:-) sts. Size 3XL only Inc round: *K1, (M1, K4) 16 times, (M1, K3) 15 times, (M1, K4) 16 times, M1, K2; rep from * once more. - (-:-:-:-:-:448) sts.

Set-up rnd: Place 13 (15:18:18:19:19:21) sts onto a holder for half of the left underarm. Taking new yarns and using the backwards loop method, cast on 6 sts for left arm opening steek, starting with yarn B and working every other st with yarn A, pm for end of steek. Keeping patt correct, work 103 (115:125:141: 155:171:183) front sts as set by Chart, place 25 (29:35:35:37:37:41) sts onto a holder for right underarm, pm for beg of steek, cast on 11 sts for right arm opening steek as before, starting with yarn A, pm for end of steek, work 103 (115:125:141:155:171:183) back sts, place 12 (14:17:17:18:18:20) sts onto a holder for remainder of left underarm, pm for beg of steek, cast on 5 sts for remainder of left arm opening steek as before, starting with yarn A, pm for start of rnd. You should now have a total of 206 (230:250:282:310:3 42:366) sts on the needles, excluding 22 steek sts.

The Knitter 26 Issue 155

Armhole dec rnd: Beg at centre of left arm opening steek, work 6 steek sts in alternating colours, slm, K2tog, patt as set to 2 sts before mrk, SSK, slm, work 11 steek sts in alternating colours, slm, K2tog, patt as set to 2 sts before mrk, SSK, slm, work 5 steek sts, slm. 4 sts dec’d. 202 (226:246:278:306:338:362) sts, excluding 22 steek sts. Work another 4 (6:6:6:8:8:8) armhole dec rounds as set. 186 (202:222:254:274:306:330) sts, excluding 22 steek sts. Work 1 round straight. Work armhole dec round. 4 sts dec’d. 182 (198:218:250:270:302:326) sts. Rep last 2 rounds another 0 (0:2:3:2:4:5) times. 182 (198:210:238:262:286:306) sts.

BEGIN FRONT NECK SHAPING Note: There are no neck edge decreases at the back. The back starts from the same stitch as the front and is then knitted using the established patt repeat. Neck divide rnd: Work 6 left underarm steek sts, slm, patt 31 (34:36:43:48:54:58) sts, pm, place 29 (31:33:33:35:35:37) sts on a holder for front neck opening, cast on 11 sts for front neck opening steek as before, pm, patt 31 (34:36:43:48:54:58), slm, K11 right underarm steek sts, slm, keeping the pattern in correct vertical alignment, K91 (99:105:119:131:143:153) to mrk, slm,

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Moonvine NEEDLES & ACCESSORIES

TENSION 29 sts and 32 rows to 10cm over Chart patt on 2.75mm needles

YARN STOCKISTS Jamieson & Smith 01595 693579 www.shetlandwoolbrokers.co.uk For general abbreviations, see p81

KEY Yarn A Yarn B

CHART 34

52½ (54:55:56½:57½:59:60) cm

2.75mm (UK 12/US 2) circular needles, 80 (80:100:100:120:120:120) cm long Stitch markers Stitch holders Sharp scissors

BLOCKING DIAGRAM

44¼ (49¾:55¼:60¾:66¼:71¾:77¼) cm

1 15

work 5 left underarm steek sts, slm. 153 (167:177:205:227:251:269) sts, excluding 33 steek sts. Neck and armhole edge dec rnd: Work 6 left underarm steek sts, slm, K2tog, patt to 2 sts before mrk, SSK, slm, work 11 neck opening steek sts, slm, K2tog, patt to 2 sts before mrk, SSK, slm, work 11 right underarm steek sts, slm, K2tog, patt to 2 sts before mrk, SSK, slm, work 5 left underarm steek sts, slm. 6 sts dec’d. 147 (161:171:199:221:245:263) sts, excluding 33 steek sts. Now, dec at front neck edges on next 5 (7:7:7:9:9:9) rounds and 4 (4:4:4:5:5:5) foll alt rounds AND AT THE SAME TIME dec at armhole edges on 2 (3:3:6:7:7:6) foll alt rounds and 0 (0:0:0:0:2:5) foll 4th rounds. 121 (127:137:153:165:181:191) sts, excluding 33 steek sts; 18 (18:20:24:25:29:31) sts per front shoulder and 85 (91:97:105:115:123:129) sts for back. Once neck and armhole shaping are complete, continue straight until armhole meas 21½ (22½:24:25:26½:27½:29) cm from beg of armhole steek. Next rnd: Cast off 6 steek sts at left arm opening, remove mrk, patt 18 (18:20:24: 25:29:31) sts on left shoulder, remove mrk, cast off 11 steek sts in front, remove mrk, patt 18 (18:20:24:25:29:31) sts on right shoulder, remove mrk, cast off 11 steek

The colourwork uses two shades of Shetland wool

Moonvine Ribbed bands are knitted on to the steeked openings

front neck sts, pick up and knit 48 (50:50:51:54:54:56) sts from right side of neck opening. 174 (186:190:192:208:208:216) sts. Note: When working next round, work K2tog or P2tog decs across Back neck sts as appropriate so that 1x1 rib is kept correct throughout. Dec rnd: Rib 1 (2:2:2:0:0:0) sts, [rib2tog, rib -(3:3:3:4:4:4) sts] 0 (2:1:1:2:2:3) times, [rib2tog, rib 3 (4:4:4:3:3:3) sts] 9 (5:7:7:7:7:5) times, [rib2tog, rib -(3:3:3:4:4:4) sts] 0 (2:1:1:2:2:3) times, rib2tog, rib 1 (1:1:1:4:4:4) sts, cont in 1x1 rib to end. 10 (10:10:10:12:12:12) sts decâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d across Back neck; 164 (176:180:182:196:196:204) sts. Work in 1x1 rib without further decs for another 6 rounds. Cast off in rib.

ARM BANDS Using sharp scissors, carefully cut down the centre of the arm opening steek sts. Return the last 13 (15:18:18:19:19:21) underarm sts from holder onto a needle. Using yarn A, knit across the last 13 (15:18:18:19:19:21) underarm sts, pick up and knit 56 (58:62:64:68:72:74) sts up to the shoulder seam, pick up and knit 57 (59:63: 65:69:73:75) sts down to underarm, return the first 12 (14:17:17:18:18:20) underarm sts from holder onto a needle, knit across the first 12 (14:17:17:18:18:20) underarm sts. 138 (146:160:164:174:182:190) sts. Work in 1x1 rib for 7 rounds. Cast off in rib. sts at right arm opening, remove mrk, K18 (18:20:24:25:29:31) on right shoulder, pm, K49 (55:57:57:65:65:67) for back of neck, pm, K18 (18:20:24:25:29:31) on left shoulder, remove mrk, cast off rem 5 steek sts at left arm opening.

two needles side by side in your left hand. Using a third needle and yarn A, cast off all sts by knitting through two sts at the same time (one from each needle) and casting off.

Slip centre 49 (55:57:57:65:65:67) sts of the back of neck between mrks onto a holder. You now have four sets of 18 (18:20:24:25: 29:31) sts for the shoulders. Break yarn B.

NECK BAND

CAST OFF SHOULDER STITCHES Turn work inside out. Using yarn A, cast off the front and back shoulder sts together, using the threeneedle cast-off: Hold the shoulder sts, right sides facing, on

Rep for second shoulder.

Using sharp scissors, carefully cut down the centre of the neck steek sts. Slip 49 (55:57:57:65:65:67) sts from holder at the back of neck onto a needle and 29 (31:33:33:35:35:37) sts from holder in front onto another needle. Using yarn A, K49 (55:57:57:65:65:67) back of neck sts, pick up and knit 48 (50:50:51:54:54:56) sts from left side of neck opening, K29 (31:33:33:35:35:37)

The Knitter 28 Issue 155

MAKING UP Weave in ends. Trim the steeks at the neck and arm opening edges slightly and hem them with a tapestry needle and yarn using blanket stitch, attaching them lightly to the floats in the body of the sweater. To wash, gently immerse in lukewarm water, following any yarn care instructions on the ball band. Carefully lift out the piece and gently squeeze out the water, making sure not to wring the garment. Roll in two clean, dry towels until most of the water is removed. Place on a jumper board to the correct measurements to dry, or alternatively lie flat and spread out to measurements. Leave to dry thoroughly.

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SAR AH HATTON

Bethรณc

These smart socks feature gansey-inspired knit and purl patterning

The Knitter

Issue 155

SIZE

NEEDLES & ACCESSORIES

TO FIT FOOT CIRCUMFERENCE

ACTUAL FOOT CIRCUMFERENCE

LENGTH FROM CUFF TO HEEL

20½

25½

18½

20½

22½

7¼

20½

21½

8¼

8½

YARN SARAH HATTON

Bethóc SUBTLE TEXTURES using purl stitches and slip stitches decorate these classic socks by Sarah Hatton. A panel of diamonds extends down the front of the leg and foot; a single diamond motif decorates the back of each leg. The soft and springy Signature 4ply yarn from West Yorkshire Spinners comes in a huge choice of solid and striping shades.

STITCH PATTERNS CHART A Round 1: (P1, Sl 1 wyif, P1, K8) twice, P1, Sl 1 wyif, P1. Round 2 and foll even rounds: Knit. Round 3: (P1, Sl 1 wyif, P1, K7, P1, Sl 1 wyif) twice, P1. Round 5: P1, Sl 1 wyif, P1, K6, P1, Sl 1 wyif, P1, K1, P1, Sl 1 wyif, P1, K6, P1, Sl 1 wyif, P1. Round 7: P1, Sl 1 wyif, P1, K5, P1, Sl 1 wyif, P1, K3, P1, Sl 1 wyif, P1, K5, P1, Sl 1 wyif, P1. Round 9: P1, Sl 1 wyif, P1, K4, P1, Sl 1 wyif, P1, K5, P1, Sl 1 wyif, P1, K4, P1, Sl 1 wyif, P1. Round 11: P1, Sl 1 wyif, P1, K3, (P1, Sl 1 wyif, P1, K2) twice, P1, Sl 1 wyif, P1, K3, P1, Sl 1 wyif, P1. Round 13: Rep Round 9. Round 15: Rep Round 7. Round 17: Rep Round 5. Round 19: Rep Round 3. Round 20: Knit. These 20 rounds form the pattern and are repeated.

West Yorkshire Spinners Signature 4ply (4ply weight; 75% wool, 25% nylon; 400m/437yds per 100g ball) Cayenne Pepper (510); 1 x 100g ball

Round 5: K3, P1, Sl 1 wyif, P1, K1, P1, Sl 1 wyif, P1, K3. Round 7: K2, P1, Sl 1 wyif, P1, K3, P1, Sl 1 wyif, P1, K2. Round 9: K1, P1, Sl 1 wyif, P1, K5, P1, Sl 1 wyif, P1, K1. Round 11: (P1, Sl 1 wyif, P1, K2) twice, P1, Sl 1 wyif, P1. Round 13: Rep Round 9. Round 15: Rep Round 7. Round 17: Rep Round 5. Round 19: Rep Round 3. Round 21: Rep Round 1. Round 22: Knit. These 22 rounds form the pattern.

1 set 2.5mm (UK 12-13/US 1-2) double-pointed needles (DPNs), or circular needles, 60-80cm long, for Magic Loop method Stitch holder or spare needle Stitch markers

TENSION 36 sts and 50 rows to 10cm over st st on 2.5mm needles

YARN STOCKISTS West Yorkshire Spinners 01535 664500 www.wyspinners.com For general abbreviations, see p81

SOCK CUFF Using 2.5mm DPNs, cast on 66 (74:82) sts. Pm and join to work in the round, taking care not to twist sts. Rib round: *K1tbl, P1; rep from * to end. Rep rib round 13 more times.

LEG Round 1: Knit. Round 2: *Sl 1 wyif, P1; rep from * to end. Round 3: Knit. Round 4: *P1, Sl 1 wyif; rep from * to end. Rounds 5 to 7: Rep Rounds 1 to 3.

A slip stitch band is worked below the twisted stitch cuff

CHART B Round 1: K5, P1, Sl 1 wyif, P1, K5. Round 2 and foll even rounds: Knit. Round 3: K4, (P1, Sl 1 wyif) twice, P1, K4.

The Knitter 30 Issue 155

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Bethóc CHART Chart A 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 25

Chart B 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 10

KEY Knit Purl

The back of the leg has a single diamond motif

Sl 1 pwise wyif

SET CHARTS

TURN HEEL

Next round: K4 (8:12), work Row 1 of Chart A, K14 (18:22), work Row 1 of Chart B, knit to end. This round sets charts with st st.

Row 1 (RS): Sl 1, K19 (21:23), SSK, K1, turn. Row 2 (WS): Sl 1, P8, P2tog, P1, turn. Row 3: Sl 1, knit to 1 st before gap, SSK, K1, turn. Row 4: Sl 1, purl to 1 st before gap, P2tog, P1, turn. Rep Rows 3-4 until all heel sts have been worked. 21 (23:25) heel sts.

Cont in patt as set for another 21 rounds to complete Chart B once in total. Next round: K4 (8:12), patt 25 sts of Chart A, knit to end. Cont straight in patt as set until work meas 15cm.

HEEL FLAP Turn work so WS is facing. The heel is worked over the next 33 (37:41) sts only; leave rem sts on a stitch holder or spare needle for instep. Row 1 (WS): Sl 1, purl to end. Row 2 (RS): Sl 1, knit to end. Rep these 2 rows another 13 (14:15) times, then rep Row 1 once more.

GUSSET Begin working in the round again. Set-up round: Sl 1, K20 (22:24), pick up and knit 15 (16:17) sts along side of heel flap, pm for new beg of round, patt across 33 (37:41) sts from instep, pick up and knit 15 (16:17) sts along side of heel flap, K36 (39:42). 84 (92:100) sts. Dec round: Patt 33 (37:41) sts, pm, SSK,

The Knitter 31 Issue 155

knit to last 2 sts, K2tog. Next round: Patt to mrk, slm, knit to end. Rep these 2 rounds another 8 times. 66 (74:82) sts.

FOOT Cont straight as set until foot meas 4½ (5:5½) cm less than desired foot length.

SHAPE TOE Dec round: (K1, SSK, knit to 3 sts before mrk, K2tog, K1) twice. Next round: Knit. Rep these 2 rounds another 10 (11: 13) times. 22 (26:26) sts.

TO MAKE UP Graft the toe sts together using Kitchener stitch. Weave in ends. Block carefully, following any yarn care instructions on the ball band.

S WA T C H E S S HOW N A C T UA L SIZE

British yarns

Explore the beauty and variety of Britain’s native sheep breeds with our pick of six special wool yarns 14 VKDGHê

BLACKER YARNS

HOME FARM WENSLEYDALES

Tamar DK Lustre Blend

4ply

Shade pictured Camel Skein weight/length 100g/220m Needle size 4mm (UK 8/US 6) Tension 20 sts and 28 rows to 10cm Fibre content 100% pure new wool Care Hand wash RRP £18 Contact www.blackeryarns.co.uk 01566 777635

Shade pictured Natural Skein weight/length 50g/210m Needle size 3.5mm (UK 10-9/US 4) Tension 28 sts and 36 rows to 10cm Fibre content 100% Wensleydale & Bluefaced Leicester wool Care Hand wash RRP £8 Contact www.homefarmwensleydales.com 07762 787836

This yarn is aptly named - its lustrous sheen and wonderful drape are truly fantastic. Spun in Cornwall, it’s a blend of British rare breeds including Teeswater, Wensleydale, Cotswold, and Black Leicester Longwool, with Cornish Mule lambswool for added bounce. It blooms beautifully with washing, and comes in 13 dyed shades and one undyed.

Farmed in the Cotswolds, this 4ply is a blend of wool from Wensleydale and Bluefaced Leicester sheep. Both are longwool lustre breeds, and the fibres give a lovely glow to the knitted fabric. It feels unbelievably soft and silky, and offers a fantastic drape and great stitch definition. Our sample is undyed; a range of softly dyed shades is also available.

The Knitter 32 Issue 155

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Reviews

Single èLJLQ wool

CARTREF YARN

GARTHENOR

Welsh 4ply

Cairngorm

Shade pictured Coron Skein weight/length 100g/361m Needle size 3.25mm-3.5mm (UK 10-9/US 3-4) Tension Approx. 25 sts and 30 rows to 10cm Fibre content 67% Welsh Mule wool, 33% Bluefaced Leicester wool Care Hand wash RRP £19 Contact www.cartrefyarn.com

Shade pictured Salt Skein weight/length 50g/350m Needle size 2.5-3.5mm (UK 13-9/US 1-4) Tension Approx 31 sts and 32 rows to 10cm Fibre content 100% organic Romney wool Care Hand wash RRP £10 Contact www.garthenor.com

A wonderful showcase for Welsh wool, this rounded, bouncy yarn feels warm and reassuringly woolly, with a good handle. It’s a 4ply-weight blend of Welsh Mule wool with Welsh Bluefaced Leicester, which is also processed in Wales. The yarn is kettle-dyed in small batches to produce a semi-solid, subtly variegated fabric in a range of rich, appealing colours.

This organic laceweight uses a fine grade of Romney lambswool, sourced from a single flock in Wiltshire. It has the robustness and crimp typical of Romney wool, with a good drape. It’s enjoyable to knit with, and would be wonderful for heritage lace shawls and lightweight cardigans. A palette of 16 shades is available, including rich, saturated hues and neutrals.

IONA WOOL

WEST YORKSHIRE SPINNERS

4-ply

The Croft Wild Shetland

Shade pictured Silver (IW4) Skein weight/length 100g/340m Needle size 3.25mm (UK 10/US 3) Tension 26 sts and 38 rows to 10cm Fibre content 100% wool Care Hand wash RRP £13.95 Contact www.ionacraftshop.com

Shade pictured Fired Earth (792) Skein weight/length 100g/166m Needle size 5mm (UK 6/US 8) Tension 18 sts and 24 rows to 10cm Fibre content 100% Shetland Islands wool Care Hand wash RRP £9.50 Contact www.wyspinners.com 01535 664500

This beautiful 4ply yarn is spun exclusively from fleeces sourced from crofters and farmers on the small Hebridean island of Iona. The undyed silver shade of our sample reflects the different breeds of the island’s flocks; a choice of warm dyed shades is also offered. The Iona wool has a firm hand and a woolly, heritage feel, offering excellent stitch definition.

This new roving-style yarn from West Yorkshire Spinners knits up into an incredibly soft, lofty fabric, with a slight fluffiness - perfect for creating cosy sweaters and cardigans for autumn and winter. Spun from pure Shetland wool, it is dyed in four variegated colourways inspired by Shetland landscapes. Find a pattern using Wild Shetland in our special supplement.

The Knitter 33 Issue 155

Reviews

Great reads

Classic, cosy Newfoundland knits are given a modern update in this book of colourful winter accessory projects SALTWATER CLASSICS FROM THE ISLAND OF NEWFOUNDLAND by Christine LeGrow and Shirley A. Scott KIT OUT the whole family in colourful, cosy accessories with this new book of designs based on classic styles from Newfoundland. Winters are harsh and stormy in this northerly Canadian island, so, as you’d expect, traditional local designs offer warmth and practicality. As well as offering more than 25 patterns, the book explores the story of Newfoundland through its knitting traditions, and the projects reflect the local geography, history, climate and culture. The pages are filled with evocative photographs, and quotes from memoirs and stories about the island. Among the projects is a wide choice of mitten designs, and the book examines the characteristics of traditional mittens from this region. These include ribbed striped cuffs, and the extensive use of a ‘salt and pepper’ pattern on the palm, thumb and top of the mitten, alternating light and dark stitches to produce a thick fabric. Many styles have an optional ‘trigger finger’ for added practicality, and the choice of either a round or pointed ‘picket fence’ top.

The ‘Hello Goodbye’ mittens have large heart motifs alongside these traditional features, and ‘Vive La Rose’ uses a smart diamond pattern. A number of the versatile designs can be knitted as either mittens, trigger mittens or wristers, with round or pointed tops, and in a range of suggested colourways. We love the children’s mittens decorated with tiny houses! Warm hat projects include textured beanies, and a stranded colourwork design with moose motifs and a folded brim. There’s a helmet-shaped hat with ear flaps; a peaked cap; and a watch cap inspired by vintage Newfoundland tea cosies, which would make an ideal stashbuster project. The book also has a section on ‘vamps’: the traditional Newfoundland oversock worn as an extra layer inside your boots, or as house slippers, and which are typically ankle-length. Alongside the plain, single-colour ‘Family Vamps’ in four sizes, there are adult vamps with an all-over colourwork pattern, and the ‘Treasure Trout’ two-colour vamps for babies. Friendly tips and advice on techniques are provided throughout the book. The beautiful, atmospheric photographs of Newfoundland will leave you with a cosy feeling, and will make you look forward to the cold weather so you can knit and wear these fascinating accessories!

The Knitter 34 Issue 155

Saltwater Classics is published by Boulder Books. Available from Search Press, priced £24.99; order with free UK p&p from www.searchpress.com

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F E AT U R E

SHEEP TALES

Graeme Bethune explains how he developed a new yarn from his beloved flock of rare-breed Castlemilk Moorits ‘primitive’ breeds – I don’t like this term, though, and would rather call them ‘unimproved’ or, better yet, Northern Short Tails. Castlemilk ewes are smaller than commercial sheep breeds, and are long-lived; anecdotally they can live 15-20 years, and are viable breeding sheep well past 10 years of age. I have 30 adult ewes, six castrated boys and one tupp – and we had a healthy crop of lambs this year who will all stay and grow the flock.” Graeme began developing his Castlemilk Moorit yarn last year, and made the decision to blend the wool with alpaca fibre after consultations with The Natural Fibre Company’s Sue Blacker and Cyd Jenkin (now at UK Alpaca) and other experts. “Castlemilk fleece is very dense, and with a short staple length, which meant that any grade like DK or above would be very

The Knitter 36 Issue 155

difficult to make, and wasteful of fleece as only the very longest parts could be used,” Graeme explains. “Blending it with longer, stronger alpaca fibres helps to stabilise the wool, giving it tensile strength and a draping quality, while the short, tight crimp of the Castlemilk wool brings a resilience and bounce – the result really is greater than the sum of its parts.”

A special blend After some experimentation, Graeme settled on a 50:50 mix of wool and alpaca. It is spun for him at The Natural Fibre Company mill in Cornwall: “No one else combines the small batch facility and the skills of blending radically different fibres to my satisfaction,” he says. “The alpaca fibre is sourced from UK Alpaca – not only has Cyd become a good friend of mine, but

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WORDS: HELEN SPEDDING

DEVELOPING A new yarn is a labour of love, particularly for smaller, independent yarn producers. For a farmer, it must be an even more daunting task – but it’s one that Graeme Bethune took in his stride, such was his desire to share his admiration of Castlemilk Moorit wool with knitters. Graeme runs Caithness Yarns from his family farm in the far north of Scotland, around 40 miles from John o’ Groats. He produces his Ballachly Croft yarn from the fleeces of his main flock of North Country Cheviot sheep, but he also wanted to create something special using wool from his rare-breed Castlemilk Moorits. “Castlemilks are awesome sheep,” says Graeme. “They are the largest of the

Sheep farming

Castlemilks are typically wilful, noisy and nosy!

1 + 3 Graeme breeds from his Castlemilk Moorit ewes every two years, and prefers a natural weaning approach 2 The wool is blended with different shades of alpaca fibre at The Natural Fibre Company’s mill in Cornwall 4 Graeme comes from a long line of crofters in Caithness, north Scotland

Castlemilk Moorit wool is a warm chocolate colour

UK Alpaca can also provide high-quality, British-sourced fibre in as wide a range of colours as I want.” The Castlemilk Moorit wool brings a warm brown tone to the blend. “The fleece is dark milk chocolate at the root and sun-bleached steadily to the tip, which is more like a milky hot chocolate - once carded it produces a steady brown,” says Graeme. The wool is blended with natural white, grey or brown alpaca fibre to give a range of yarn shades. “We’ve been working with completely undyed, unbleached fibres to create some utterly unique blends – it has surpassed my expectations in terms of colour separation, and I’m very pleased with the results,” he says. “The very low levels of processing have been appreciated by customers with eczema and other skin conditions, and also those with moral objections to high processing.” An environmental and high-welfare approach is central to everything Graeme does at Caithness Yarns. “My philosophy is to ensure my sheep are happy and healthy

– I strive for long-term sheep health in everything I do,” says Graeme. “I’ve been working on programmes of environmental repair to improve the natural health of the land. Not only will this protect the long-term future of our family farm, but I believe that it will help our sheep to produce better wool, and thus better yarn.” Graeme only breeds from his Castlemilks every two years. “This is because I felt their lambs are much slower to maturity than my Cheviots, so they should stay with their mother for much longer. I do not wean the lambs - they wean themselves at a more natural point; however, this is way too late to breed from them that year. Sheep need time after weaning to recover strength and condition.” In the years when his ewes have lambed, Graeme takes fleece from his “sheep men” or castrated males. “I’ve found that I get a more consistent fleece quality from my castrated boys than from the ladies who have had babies that year.” In this way, Graeme is able to keep a slaughter-free flock.

The Knitter 37 Issue 155

Graeme is an advocate for the beauty of Castlemilk Moorit wool, and the sheep are dear to his heart. “Castlemilks are totally different from Cheviots, or any other commercial breed I have worked with,” he says. “They are noisy and nosy and clever and wild, they have natural charisma and a poise that’s compelling. If you want to move them, you cannot drive them - they scatter and run like the wind. I manage them through bribery and out-thinking them! I have trained them to come when I call, and that call is linked to food. I’ve found the trick is to just let them behave as naturally as possible, while arranging things so that what they want to do is also what I want them to do. It sounds simple, but they are still naughty sheepies – although I am better at this than when I started with these girls. They are a pleasure to keep, and are totally entertaining.” www.caithnessyarns.com - Read more about Graeme’s adventures in yarn and farming in forthcoming issues!

JENNIE ATKINSON

Cybele Fitted and fabulous, this jumper is knitted in a stretchy two-colour rib

The Knitter

Issue 155

Cybele

The wide neck has a fold-over collar

SIZE 8

102

107

112

117

122

102

107

112

117

32¼

34¼

35¾

37¾

40¼

48½

49½

51½

17¾

18½

19½

20¼

8¾

TO FIT BUST

ACTUAL BUST ACTUAL LENGTH (UNSTRETCHED)

SLEEVE SEAM

YARN Juniper Moon Farm Patagonia Organic Merino (Sport weight; 100% organic Argentinian merino wool; 349m/382yds per 100g skein) JENNIE ATKINSON

Cybele JENNIE ATKINSON loves to create super-feminine knitwear, and this clingy sweater has a striking look. Designed to be fitted to the body, it is comfortable to wear, thanks to a very stretchy two-colour rib fabric. The garment is worked in the round from the bottom-up; the three-quarter sleeves are knitted first, then added to the body to shape the raglan-style armholes. It’s knitted in lightweight organic merino wool from Juniper Moon Farm, called Patagonia.

PATTERN NOTES The jumper is designed to be fitted through the hips. If you would like to adjust the fit, you may wish to cast on for a larger size and adjust the waist shaping to reach the correct number of stitches for the desired bust size. See blocking diagram for detailed measurements for each size, but note that the garment is very stretchy and so will be quite a bit longer than the given measurements when worn.

A TURQUOISE (123)

SKEINS

B IVORY (116)

SKEINS

Pm and join to work in the rnd, being careful not to twist sts. Work 10 rnds in Rib Stitch pattern. Inc rnd (Rnd 5 of Patt): K1, M1, K to last st, M1, K1. 2 sts inc’d.

x100g

Cont in patt, rep Dec rnd every 12th rnd 1 (1:1:0:0:0:0:0:0) time, then every 6th rnd another 2 (2:2:4:4:4:4:4:4) times. 128 (140:150:158:168:180:190:200:210) sts.

Rep Inc every 6th rnd another 4 (4:5:5:4: 4:5:5:5) times, then every 12th rnd 6 times. 64 (68:70:74:76:76:80:84:88) sts. Work even in patt if necessary until a total of 119 rnds or 19 full pattern repeats plus 5 rnds have been worked, ending after Rnd 5 of patt.

Work 17 rnds even in patt, ending after Rnd 4 of patt. Inc rnd (Rnd 5 of Patt): *K1, M1, K to 1 st before mrk, M1, K1; rep from * once more. 4 sts inc’d. Cont in patt, rep Inc rnd every 12th rnd another 5 times. 152 (164:174:182:192:204:214:224:234) sts.

Break yarns. Place first and last 5 (5:6:6:6: 7:8:9:10) sts of rnd on a holder for underarm [10 (10:12:12:12:14:16:18:20) sts in total]; place rem 54 (58:58:62:64:62:64:66:68) sts on a separate holder.

BODY

RIB STITCH PATTERN

Using 3.75mm circular needles and yarn A, cast on 144 (156:166:178:188:200:210:220: 230) sts, placing a marker after first 72 (78:83:89:94:100:105:110:115) sts to mark side ‘seam’. Pm for beg of rnd and join to work in the rnd, being careful not to twist sts.

Rnds 1-3: With yarn A, purl. Rnds 4-6: With yarn B, knit. Repeat these 6 rnds for pattern.

Work in Rib Stitch Pattern for 28 rnds, ending after Rnd 4 of patt.

SLEEVES

SHAPE WAIST

(both alike) Using 3.75mm DPNs and yarn A, cast on 42 (46:46:50:54:54:56:60:64) sts.

Dec rnd (Rnd 5 of Patt): *K1, K2tog, K to 3 sts before mrk, SSK, K1; rep from * once more. 4 sts dec’d.

The Knitter 40 Issue 155

x100g

Work even in patt until piece meas approx. 31cm from cast-on edge (relaxed) or to desired length to underarm, ending after Rnd 5 of patt. Place 5 (5:6:6:6:7:8:9:10) sts each side of beg of rnd mrk on holder for underarm [10 (10:12:12:12:14:16:18:20) sts in total]. Repeat for side mrk. 66 (72:75:79:84:88:91:94:97) sts each rem for Back and Front.

JOIN BODY AND SLEEVES Join yarn B to Body sts after underarm holder and K66 (72:75:79:84:88:91:94:97) from Body for Back, pm, knit across 54 (58:58:62:64:62:64:66:68) held sts of first sleeve, pm, K66 (72:75:79:84:88:91:94: 97) from Body for Front, pm, knit across 54 (58:58:62:64:62:64:66:68) held sts of second sleeve. Pm for new beg of rnd. 240 (260:266:282:296:300:310:320:330) sts.

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Cybele

3.75mm (UK 9/US 5) circular needles, 60cm long Set of 3.75mm (UK 9/US 5) double-pointed needles (DPNs) Stitch holders Stitch markers

TENSION 20 sts and 54 rnds to 10cm over rib st pattern on 3.75mm needles

YARN STOCKISTS Juniper Moon Farm c/o Knitting Fever www.knittingfever.com Available in the UK from LoveCrafts www.lovecrafts.com

BLOCKING DIAGRAM

45 (47:47:48½:49½:49½:51:51:51½) cm

NEEDLES & ACCESSORIES

38 (41:43½:45½:48: 51:53½:56:58½) cm

32 (35:37½:39½:42: 45:47½:50:52½) cm

36 (39:41½:44½:47: 50:52½:55:57½) cm

For general abbreviations, see p81

YOKE Rnds 1-3: With yarn A, purl. Rnd 4: With yarn B, knit. Rnd 5 (Raglan dec rnd): Using yarn B, *K1, K2tog, K to 3 sts before mrk, SSK, K1; rep from * three times more. 8 sts dec’d. Rnd 6: With yarn B, knit. Rep last 6 rnds 11 (13:13:14:15:15:16:16:17) times more. 144 (148:154:162:168:172:174:184:186) sts.

COLLAR Note: With collar rolled down, the WS of the work will now become the RS. Reverse the placement of unused colour when carrying it between rnds. Work even in Rib Stitch Pattern for 24 rnds. Rnds 1-3: With yarn A, purl. Rnd 4: With yarn B, knit. Rnd 5 (Collar inc rnd): Using yarn B, *K1, M1, K to 1 st before mrk, M1, K1; rep from * three times more. 8 sts inc’d. Rnd 6: With yarn B, knit. Rep Rnds 1-6 twice more. 168 (172:178:186:192:196:198:208:210) sts. Using yarn A, purl 3 rnds. Cast off loosely.

FINISHING With WS facing, join underarms using a three-needle cast-off. Weave in ends. Fold collar to outside and catch in place using a few sewn stitches, if required.

The Knitter 41 Issue 155

22 cm

Cybele

The two-colour ribbed fabric is very stretchy

SAR AH HATTON

Dilys This classic yoked cardigan for girls is decorated with bands of slip stitch texture

The Knitter

Issue 155

SIZE TO FIT CHEST

ACTUAL CHEST

ACTUAL LENGTH

SLEEVE SEAM

NEEDLES & ACCESSORIES

3yrs

4yrs

5yrs

6yrs

7yrs

58½

63½

65½

25¼

27¼

29¼

15¾

16½

17¼

10¼

11¾

12½

13½

YARN SARAH HATTON

Dilys

Novita Wool Cotton DK (DK weight; 55% merino wool, 45% cotton; 112m/122yds per 50g ball) SAFFRON (285)

3.25mm (UK 10/US 3) circular needles, 60cm long Set of 3.25mm (UK 10/US 3) double-pointed needles (DPNs) for sleeve (unless using the Magic Loop method) 4mm (UK 6/US 8) circular needles, 60cm long Set of 4mm (UK 6/US 8) DPNs for sleeve (unless using the Magic Loop method) Stitch holders, stitch markers 6 buttons

TENSION x50g BALLS

22 sts and 28 rows to 10cm over st st on 4mm needles

SARAH HATTON is often inspired by vintage styles when designing knits for children, and this cardigan for girls has a timeless look. The body is knitted in one piece to the armholes, then joined with the sleeves to work the yoke section. Bands of slip stitch texture around the lower body, neckline and cuffs add extra interest to the garment. It’s knitted in a smooth, comfortable wool-cotton yarn from Novita, which comes in seven soft shades.

Inc 1 st as set at each end of 3 (4:0:0:10) foll 4th (4th:0:0:6th) rounds, then on every foll 6th (6th:6th:6th:8th) round to 56 (58:62:64:68) sts.

Rep these 4 rows once more, then rows 1 and 2 once more, inc 1 (1:0:1:0) st at each end of last row. 137 (141:147:153:159) sts.

Cont without shaping until Sleeve meas 26 (28:30:32:34) cm, ending at mrk.

Beg with a K row and working in st st throughout, cont until work meas 22 (24:25:27:28) cm, ending with RS facing for next row.

SLEEVES

BODY

(both alike) Using 3.25mm needles, cast on 36 (36:40:40:44) sts. Pm and join to work in the round, taking care not to twist sts. Rib round 1: *K2, P2; rep from * to end. This round sets rib. Work 7 (7:7:9:9) rounds more in rib.

(worked in one piece to armholes) Using 3.25mm circular needles, cast on 136 (140:148:152:160) sts. Row 1 (RS): P1, *K2, P2; rep from * to last 3 sts, K2, P1. Row 2: K1, P2, *K2, P2; rep from * to last st, P1. These 2 rows set rib.

Leave 4 (4:5:5:6) sts on either side of this marker on a holder for underarm.

JOIN TO FORM YOKE Leave rem sts on a second holder. 48 (50:52:54:56) sts.

Next row (RS): K29 (30:31:33:34) from body, leave next 8 (8:10:10:12) sts on a holder for underarm, K48 (50:52:54:56) sts from sleeve holder, K63 (65:65:67:67) from body, leave next 8 (8:10:10:12) sts on a holder for underarm, K48 (50:52:54:56) sts from sleeve holder, K29 (30:31:33:34) from body. 217 (225:231:241:247) sts. Beg with a P row, work 3 rows in st st.

SHORT-ROW SHAPING FOR FRONT NECK Change to 4mm needles. Knit 2 rounds. Cont as folls:Round 1: *P1, Sl 1 wyif; rep from * to end. Round 2: Knit. Round 3: *K1, P1, Sl 1 wyif, P1; rep from * to end. Round 4: Knit. Round 5: As Round 1. Knit 1 round. Next round: K1, M1, knit to last st, M1, K1. 2 sts inc’d. This round sets sleeve increases.

Work 10 (10:10:12:12) rows more as set, dec 1 st at end of last row. 135 (139:147:151:159) sts. Change to 4mm circular needles. Beg with a K row, work 4 rows in st st. Cont as folls:Row 1: K1, *P1, Sl 1 wyif; rep from * to last 2 sts, P1, K1. Row 2: Purl. Row 3: K2, *P1, Sl 1 wyif, P1, K1; rep from * to last st, K1. Row 4: Purl.

The Knitter 44 Issue 155

Next 2 rows: K119 (124:128:133:137), wrap next st (by slipping next st from left-hand needle onto RH needle, taking yarn to opposite side of work between needles and then slipping the same st back onto left-hand needle – when working back across wrapped sts work the wrapped st and the wrapping loop tog as one st) and turn, P21 (23:25:25:27) sts, wrap next st and turn. Next 2 rows: K to last wrap st, K8 (inc wrapped st, working wrap tog with st), wrap next st and turn, purl to last wrap st,

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Dilys YARN STOCKISTS

BLOCKING DIAGRAM

Novita www.novitaknits.com

38 (40:42:44:46) cm

For general abbreviations, see p81

26 (28:30:32:3 4) cm

32 (33:34Â˝:35Â˝:37) cm

Simple bands of slip stitch appear on the body and sleeves

P8 (inc wrapped st, working wrap tog with st), wrap next st and turn. Rep these 2 rows 5 (5:6:6:6) times more, knitting to end of last row. Now working across all sts work as folls:Beg with a P row, work 1 (1:1:1:3) rows, ending with RS facing for next row. Next row: K12 (16:19:14:17), (Sl 1, K2tog, psso, K7) 19 (19:19:21:21) times, Sl 1, K2tog, psso, knit to end. 177 (185:191:197:203) sts. Beg with a P row, work 5 (7:7:7:9) rows, ending with RS facing for next row. Next row: K11 (15:18:13:16), (Sl 1, K2tog, psso, K5) 19 (19:19:21:21) times, Sl 1, K2tog, psso, knit to end. 137 (145:151:153:159) sts. Beg with a P row, work 3 (3:3:5:7) rows. Next row: K1, *P1, Sl 1 wyif; rep from * to last 2 sts, P1, K1. Purl 1 row.

Next row: K10 (14:17:12:15), (Sl 1, K2tog, psso, K3) 19 (19:19:21:21) times, Sl 1, K2tog, psso, knit to end. 97 (105:111:109:115) sts. Purl 1 row. Next row: K1, *P1, Sl 1 wyif; rep from * to last 2 sts, P1, K1. Purl 1 row. Next row: K2, *P1, Sl 1 wyif, P1, K1; rep from * to last 1 (1:0:3:2) st(s), P0 (0: 0: 1: 0), K1 (1:1:2:2). Purl 1 row. Next row: K1, *P1, Sl 1 wyif; rep from * to last 2 sts, P1, K1. Purl 1 row. Sizes 3yrs, 4yrs, 5yrs and 7yrs only Next row: K9 (13:16:-:14), (Sl 1, K2tog, psso, K1) 19 (19:19:-:21) times, Sl 1, K2tog, psso, knit to end. 57 (65:71:-:71) sts. Size 6yrs only Next row: K17, (Sl 1, K2tog, K2) 18 times, Sl 1, K2tog, psso, knit to end. - (-:-:71:-) sts. Work 1 row. Next row: K1, *P1, Sl 1 wyif; rep from * to last 2 sts, P1, K1. All sizes Next row: Purl to end, dec 1 (1:3:3:0) sts and inc 0 (0:0:0:1) st across row. 56 (64:68:68:72) sts. Change to 3.25mm needles. Next row: P1, *K2, P2; rep from * to last 3 sts, K2, P1.

The Knitter 45 Issue 155

Next row: K1, P2, *K2, P2; rep from * to last st, K1. Rep these 2 rows twice more, then first row once more. Cast off in rib.

MAKING UP BUTTONHOLE BAND With RS facing, using 3.25mm circular needles pick up and knit 92 (96:100:104:108) sts up right front edge and neckband. Row 1 (WS): K1, *P2, K2; rep from * to last 3 sts, P2, K1. Row 2: K3, *P2, K2; rep from * to last st, K1. These 2 rows set rib. Next row: Rib 2 (2:3:3:3), [cast off 2 sts (1 st left on needle), rib 13 (14:14:15:17)] 5 times, cast off 2 sts, rib to end. Next row: Rib to end, casting on 2 sts over each gap created by casting off on previous row. Work 3 rows in rib. Cast off in rib.

BUTTON BAND With RS facing, using 3.25mm circular needles pick up and knit 92 (96:100:104: 108) sts down left front edge and neckband. Work 7 rows in rib as set on Buttonhole band. Cast off in rib. Using Kitchener stitch, join underarm seams. Sew on buttons. Pin out garment to measurements, cover with damp cloths and leave until dry, following any yarn care instructions on the ball band.

F E AT U R E

Loops on wires K N IT TING IN SHETL A N D DI A L EC T Viveka Velupillai explores how Shetland’s blend of its ancestor languages, Scots and Norn, is still evident in the dialect knitting terms used on the islands SHETLAND MAY seem remote, but if you turn the globe just a little you’ll see that it is in fact a very central place. It is the obvious stop-over for any trade or migration routes crossing the North Sea or the western part of the Atlantic. And so Shetland has been a place of contact for many centuries. Some 1,200 years ago Norse seafarers began to settle on the islands, bringing with them their Norse language, which in Shetland, Orkney and Caithness would evolve to Norn. Norn would remain spoken in Shetland for another 800-900 years. The links with Scotland gradually increased over the centuries, and by the early 15th century speakers of Lowland Scots started to settle in Shetland, bringing with them the Scots language. Around the same time, in the early 15th century, the Hanseatic trade started on a large scale in Shetland. This regularly brought merchants, sailors and traders from the northern European Low Countries to the islands. In other words, there was a steady language contact between the Shetlanders and speakers of Low Germanic languages, such as Dutch and Low German.

Trade and language In 1469 Shetland was pawned to Scotland and it has remained Scottish ever since. However, Norn was spoken for roughly another 250 years. So what

we had was a bilingual society with both Norn and Scots spoken, while many locals were also highly proficient in Dutch and Low German. One of the big trading contacts that Shetlanders had with the Low Countries was the large-scale knitwear trade with the Dutch fishing vessels, starting in the 1580s. The vessels came in the hundreds to the sheltered eastern sound between Bressay and Mainland Shetland. It was this returning trade to that eastern anchorage which gave rise to Lerwick, now capital of Shetland. What these Dutch fishermen were especially keen on trading for were the Shetland knitted stockings and mittens. There is no way of knowing exactly when knitting started in Shetland. By knitting I am here referring to the craft where two or more needles are used to form a mesh of interlacing loops by an unlimited length of thread. However, it is fair to assume the skills were widespread enough on the islands in the 1580s to be able to supply the high demand for knitwear of the Dutch fishing fleet. These skills will have been learned in the linguistic environment that was prevalent on the islands at the time and, at the very latest, shortly before that, namely Norn, Scots and Low German/Dutch. But not English. Now, skills like knitting are typically learned in informal settings. An older person, usually a grandparent or someone of that generation and role, instructs a younger person (or a few

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younger persons), passing on his or her skills to the learner. This is done in a private, relaxed setting, which means that the language used will be informal and relaxed, rather than the kind of language that tends to be used in formal, standardised settings like the classroom. This kind of informal language is often quite conservative: the way we learned something, the terms that we learned with the acts and motions of the craft, that is what we pass on when we then show others how we do things. In other words, traditional knowledge like this can in fact act as language preservers.

Makkin in Shetland So what does knitting sound like in Shetland? Well ﬁrst of all, we’re not actually knitting in Shetland, we’re makkin. The ﬁrst thing I have to do when makkin in Shetland is to Lay up mi sok (‘cast on my piece of knitting’). This construction will be very familiar to any Scandinavian speaker: in Swedish what I do is to Lägga up min stickning (lit. ‘lay up my knitting’). In picture 1 you see my kloo (ball of yarn) of moorit (Shetland brown) wirsit (spun wool, yarn) and I am laying up mi sok by laying up loops (stitches) on my wires (knitting needles). Speakers of the Low Germanic languages will recognize the word kloo in, for example, the Dutch kluwen (‘tangle, knot’) I have chosen moorit yarn, one of the natural colours of the native Shetland

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Knitting history 1

Laying up mi sok by laying up loops of my moorit wirsit on my wire.

MAP, ABOVE LEFT: GETTY IMAGES

My sok, with visible riggies, being spretted.

sheep. As with a number of terms related to sheep and crofting, moorit is directly inherited from Norn and ultimately derives from Old Norse mórauðr, a compound consisting of the components mór ‘moor’ and rauðr ‘red’, i.e. literally ‘moor-red’. The term sok ‘piece of knitting’ is interesting: both the Old English socc and the Old Norse sokkr meant ‘stocking’. Now, recall that the main knitwear items that the Dutch ﬁshing vessels traded for were stockings and mittens. Over time the word for stockings evolved to mean just any piece of knitting. In Shetland, the expression Tak dy sok means ‘Bring your knitting (along)’, irrespective of what precisely your project is, whether a hat, scarf, shawl, jumper or any other piece of knitting. In picture 2 the riggies of my little sok are clearly visible. These are the lumpy ridges that are formed by garter stitch knitting. The term is an inheritance from Norn and derives from the Old Norse hryggr ‘back, ridge’. The modern equivalent in the Scandinavian languages is rygg ‘back’. The observant reader will notice that in the above ﬁgure the yarn is actually being pulled. Every knitter’s dread is to have to spret their sok. This term, like the colour term moorit, is only found in the former Norn-speaking areas. It is an inheritance from Norn sprett derived from Old Norse spretta ‘to tear apart, rip up’ and is still a (dreaded) knitting

Hentilagets in the Uradale hills

term in the Scandinavian languages, for example Swedish sprätta. One of my own personal favourite terms connected with wool and knitting in Shetland dialect is hentilagets ‘tufts of wool fallen off sheep when grazing’. When sheep graze tufts of wool tend to fall off or rub off on fences and branches. The hentilagets were traditionally gathered up and used as wool. The word is a compound consisting of two elements: (i) hent – which is inherited from Old Scots hint and ultimately derives from

The Knitter

Issue 155

Old English henten ‘to seize, grasp’. This is a pan-Germanic root and the Swedish equivalent is hämta ‘to pick up’; plus (ii) laget – which is inherited from Norn lag(e)d and derives from Old Norse lagðr ‘tuft or wisp (of something)’. This root can still be found in Nynorsk lagde meaning ‘(felted) tuft of hair; tuft of wool (for spinning)’. This term, hentilagets, is thus a truly mixed heritage compound, where each of the two components derive from each of the two ancestor languages, and neatly sums up the origin of Shetland dialect.

Knitting history

Shetland’s capital, Lerwick, was a hub of international trade

The grammar of makkin in Shetland

Shetland’s knitting language has been passed down through the generations

Language is much more than just words and sounds. Every language has a system, and Shetland dialect also has a distinct grammar. Consider the following example sentences: – I bowt wirset dastreen. Hit was aaﬁl ﬁne. – I bought yarn yesterday. It was really nice.

– I hæd ee peerie kloo o moorit wirset but noo I canna fin him. – I had one small ball of moorit yarn but now I can’t find it. – Oh dear, Am drappit mi wire an noo he’s (shö’s) rolled under da couch. – Oh dear, I’ve dropped my needle and now it’s rolled under the couch. – Da first loop is aye da lowsest een. Hoo do I get him tighter? – The first stitch is always the loosest one. How do I get it tighter? What we see here is that some in animate objects are referred to as he or she. This is a feature termed grammatical gender: when objects that have no biological sex are referred to with some kind of marker for gender.

Both Old English and Old Norse had grammatical gender, and it seems as if Norn retained it. Shetland dialect still has grammatical gender and the choice is not haphazard: mass nouns (things that cannot be counted), such as wirset and oo, are referred to with a neuter pronoun (hit), while concrete count nouns (things that can be counted), such as kloo, wire and loop, are referred to with gendered pronouns. Knitting has thus not only been an important commodity for the Shetland economy, but has also served to preserve the linguistic heritage of the islands. Plus it is fun.

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A B O U T T H E AU T H O R Viveka Velupillai is an Honorary Professor at the Department of English, University of Giessen, Germany. She specialises on global patterns of language structure (linguistic typology), contact languages and linguistics, and language history. Her main focus is to document and describe the grammar of Shetland dialect. This is dedicated to my mentor and dear friend Gunnel Melchers

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ABOVE: GENERAL PHOTOGRAPHIC AGENCY / STRINGER. TOP: CHERT61 / GETTYIMAGES

– Am baggit aa da oo. Hit’s ﬁne tae see da back o hit. – I’ve bagged all the wool. It’s good to see the back of it.

DARIO TUBIANA

Monte Pelmo Chunky and cosy, this shawl-collar cardigan features bold stripes of colour The Knitter

Issue 155

SIZE XS TO FIT CHEST

91-96 102-107 112-117 122-127 132-137

ACTUAL CHEST

ACTUAL LENGTH

SLEEVE SEAM

THE THICK, cabled fabric on Dario Tubiana’s cardigan for men will keep the wearer feeling super-warm and cosy on the coldest of winter days! He has used Rowan’s super-chunky Big Wool in a steel grey shade, and added deep stripes in three bright colours for a dramatic effect. Dario’s design includes a shawl collar and fully lined pockets. Note that the cable stitch pattern changes depending on which section and size you are working, so please refer to the instructions below before commencing knitting.

STITCH PATTERNS CABLE PATTERN All Backs. Both Fronts for sizes S and L, Sleeves for sizes S and M. (worked over 8 sts and 8 rows) Row 1 (RS): Knit. Row 2 and all WS rows: Purl. Row 3: C4B, C4F. Row 5: Knit. Row 7: C4F, C4B. Row 8: Purl.

CABLE PATTERN Right Fronts for sizes XS, M and XL. Right Sleeves for sizes XS, L and XL. (worked over 8 sts + 4 and 8 rows) Row 1 (RS): Knit. Row 2 and all WS rows: Purl. Row 3: C4B, *C4F, C4B; rep from * to end. Row 5: Knit. Row 7: C4F, *C4B, C4F; rep from * to end. Row 8: Purl.

36-38

40-42

44-46

48-50

52-54

104

114

124

134

144

40¾

44¾

48¾

52¾

56½

71½

72½

27½

28½

29½

52½

19¾

20¾

DARIO TUBIANA

Monte Pelmo

NEEDLES & ACCESSORIES

Rowan 01484 668200 www.knitrowan.com

CABLE PATTERN

pattern where possible. Where there aren’t enough sts to work a cable, work these sts in st st. Cast off 2 (3:4:5:5) sts at beg of next 2 rows. 78 (84:90:96:104) sts.

Left Fronts for sizes XS, M and XL. Left Sleeves for sizes XS, L and XL. (worked over 8 sts + 4 and 8 rows) Row 1 (RS): Knit. Row 2 and all WS rows: Purl. Row 3: C4F, *C4B, C4F; rep from * to end. Row 5: Knit. Row 7: C4B, *C4F, C4B; rep from * to end. Row 8: Purl.

BACK Using 8mm needles and yarn A, cast on 82 (90:98:106:114) sts. Rib row 1 (RS): *K2, P2; rep from * to last 2 sts, K2. Rib row 2 (WS): *P2, K2; rep from * to last 2 sts, P2. These 2 rows set rib. Cont in rib as set for another 6 rows, ending after a WS row. Change to 9mm needles. Row 1 (RS): K1, work Row 1 of Cable Patt to last st, K1. Row 2 (WS): K1, work Row 2 of Cable Patt to last st, K1. Cont in Cable Patt until you have completed 6 repeats (48 rows in total) after end of rib hem, ending after a WS row.

Change to yarn B. Work another 16 rows in Cable Patt.

SHAPE ARMHOLES

TENSION 16 sts and 16 rows to 10cm over cable pattern on 9mm needles

YARN STOCKISTS

Work another 4 rows in pattern as set.

1 pair 8mm (UK 0/US 11) knitting needles 1 pair 9mm (UK 00/US 13) knitting needles 8mm (UK 0/US 11) circular needles, at least 80cm long, for neck edging and button bands Cable needle (cn) Stitch markers Stitch holders 5 buttons

Note: After you have worked 2 more rows in yarn B over the next cast-offs, change to yarn C. Cast off 2 (2:3:3:3) sts at beg of next 4 (4:2:2:4) rows. 70 (76:84:90:92) sts. Cast off 1 (1:2:2:2) sts at beg of next 2 (4:4:6:4) rows. 68 (72:76:78:84) sts. Size M only Cast off 1 st at beg of next 2 rows. - (-:74:-:-) sts. All sizes When all decs are complete, keeping 1 st at beg and end of row as a knit stitch as before, work straight until you have worked a total of 16 rows in yarn C. Work 8 rows in yarn D. Work 8 (10:12:14:16) rows in yarn A, ending after a WS row.

SHAPE BACK SHOULDERS Cast off 11 (12:12:13:14) sts at beg of next 4 rows. 24 (24:26:26:28) sts. Cast off rem sts.

RIGHT FRONT

Note: When working shaping, keep sts in

Using 8mm needles and yarn A, cast on 38 (42:46:50:54) sts.

The Knitter 50 Issue 155

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Monte Pelmo YARN

BLOCKING DIAGRAM

A GLUM (056)

x100g BALLS

B LIPSTICK (063)

x100g BALLS

C VERT (054)

x100g BALLS

D YOKE (124)

SPECIAL ABBREVIATIONS

(50 50

) cm ½ 2 5 ½: :52 ½ :52

52 (57:62:67:72) cm

C4B: Slip 2 sts onto cn and hold at back of work, K2, K2 from cn. C4F: Slip 2 sts onto cn and hold at front of work, K2, K2 from cn. For general abbreviations, see p81

Rib row (RS): *K2, P2; rep from * to last 2 sts, K2. Rib row (WS): *P2, K2; rep from * to last 2 sts, P2. These 2 rows set rib. Cont in rib as set for another 6 rows, ending after a WS row. Change to 9mm needles. Row 1 (RS): K1, work Row 1 of Cable Patt to last st, K1. Row 2 (WS): K1, work Row 2 of Cable Patt to last st, K1. Cont in Cable Patt until you have completed 3 repeats (24 rows in total), ending after a WS row. **

PLACE POCKET OPENING Next row (RS): K1, patt 8 (16:16:16:16), (K2, P2) 3 times, K2, patt 14 (10:14:18:22), K1. Work another 2 rows as set, with 2x2 rib over 14 pocket sts and rem sts in Cable Patt. Next row (WS): Patt to pocket sts, cast off 14 sts pwise, patt to end. Set Front aside.

POCKET INNER Using 9mm needles and yarn D, cast on 16 sts. Beg with a RS (knit) row, work 20 rows in st st, ending after a WS row. Change to yarn A. Next row (RS): Knit. Next row (WS): Purl. Next row: K1, patt 14 from Row 3 of Right Front Cable Patt, K1. Next row: Purl.

ADD POCKET TO FRONT With RS facing and using 9mm needles, rejoin yarn A to Right Front. Next row (RS): K1, patt 7 (15:15:15:15), K2tog next st with first pocket st, patt across 14 pocket sts, SSK last st of pocket with next st of Right Front, patt to end. *** Cont straight until you have worked 6 repeats (48 rows in total) after end of rib hem, ending after a WS row. Work another 4 rows in pattern as set. Change to yarn B. Work another 16 rows in Cable Patt. ****

SHAPE ARMHOLE AND NECK EDGE Note: When working shaping, keep sts in pattern where possible. Where there aren’t enough sts to work a cable, work these sts in st st. Throughout this section work stripes as for Back. Row 1 (RS): K1, SSK, patt to end. 37 (41:45:49:53) sts. Row 2 (WS): Cast off 2 (3:4:5:5) sts, patt to end. 35 (38:41:44:48) sts. Row 3: K1, SSK, patt to end. 34 (37:40:43:47) sts. Row 4: Cast off 2 (2:3:3:3) sts, patt to end. 32 (35:37:40:44) sts. Row 5: K1, SSK, patt to end. 31 (34:36:39:43) sts. Row 6: Cast off 2 (2:2:2:3) sts, patt to end. 29 (32:34:37:40) sts. Row 7: Patt to end. Row 8: Cast off 1 (1:2:2:2) sts, patt to end. 28 (31:32:35:38) sts.

The Knitter 51 Issue 155

70 (71½:72½:74:75) cm

Rowan Big Wool (Super-chunky weight; 100% wool, 80m/87yds per 100g ball)

Row 9: K1, SSK, patt to end. 27 (30:31:34:37) sts. Row 10: Cast off 0 (1:1:2:2) sts, patt to end. 27 (29:30:32:35) sts. Work 2 rows straight. Keeping stripes and Cable Patt correct, dec at neck edge on next row and 4 (4:5:5:6) foll 4th rows. 22 (24:24:26:28) sts. Cont straight for a few more rows until Front measures same as Back to beg of shoulder shaping, ending at shoulder edge.

SHAPE SHOULDER Cast off 11 (12:12:13:14) sts at beg of next and foll alt row.

LEFT FRONT Work as for Right Front to **. 38 (42:46:50:54) sts.

PLACE POCKET OPENING Next row (RS): K1, patt 14 (10:14:18:22), (K2, P2) 3 times, K2, patt 8 (16:16:16:16), K1. Work another 2 rows as set, with 2x2 rib over 14 pocket sts. Next row (WS): Patt to pocket sts, cast off 14 sts pwise, patt to end. Set Front aside.

POCKET INNER Using 9mm needles and yarn D, cast on 16 sts. Beg with a RS (knit) row, work 20 rows in st st, ending after a WS row. Change to yarn A. Next row (RS): Knit. Next row (WS): Purl.

Monte Pelmo Next row: Placing pattern to align 14 sts with Left Front correctly, K1, patt 14 from Row 3 of Cable Patt, K1. Next row: Purl.

ADD POCKET TO FRONT With RS facing and using 9mm needles, rejoin yarn A to Left Front. Next row (RS): K1, patt 13 (9:13:17:21), K2tog next st with first pocket st, patt across 14 pocket sts, SSK last st of pocket with next st of Left Front, pattern to end. Work as for Right Front from *** to ****.

Row 10: Patt straight. Work 2 rows straight. Keeping stripes and cable correct, dec at neck edge on next row and 4 (4:5:5:6) foll 4th rows. 22 (24:24:26:28) sts. Cont straight for a few more rows until Front measures same as Back to beg of shoulder shaping, ending at shoulder edge.

SHAPE SHOULDER Cast off 11 (12:12:13:14) sts at beg of next and foll alt row.

SLEEVES

SHAPE ARMHOLE Note: When working shaping, keep sts in pattern where possible. Where there aren’t enough sts to work a cable, work these sts in st st. Throughout this section work stripe section as for Back. Row 1 (RS): Cast off 2 (3:4:5:5) sts, patt to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 35 (38:41:44:48) sts. Row 2 and all WS rows: Patt straight. Row 3: Cast off 2 (2:3:3:3) sts, patt to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 32 (35:37:40:44) sts. Row 5: Cast off 2 (2:2:2:3) sts, patt to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 29 (32:34:37:40) sts. Row 7: Cast off 1 (1:2:2:2) sts, patt to end. 28 (31:32:35:38) sts. Row 9: Cast off 0 (1:1:2:2) sts, patt to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 27 (29:30:32:35) sts. Pocket linings are knitted in a contrast colour

Using 8mm needles and yarn A, cast on 38 (42:42:46:46) sts. Work in rib as for Back, increasing 6 sts evenly over final row. 44 (48:48:52:52) sts. Note: Read ahead. Stripe sequence and Sleeve shaping are worked AT THE SAME TIME. When working stripe sequence for Sleeves, work in yarn A until you have completed 7 repeats of Cable Patt. Work another 0 (0:4:4:4) rows in pattern and yarn A, then work in yarn B for 16 rows. Sleeve should be complete at this point and sleeve top shaping will begin. Change to 9mm needles. Row 1 (RS): K1, work Row 1 of Cable Patt for your size to last st, K1. Row 2 (WS): K1, work Row 2 of Cable Patt for your size to last st, K1. Work 2 more rows in Cable Patt as set. Inc row (RS): K1, M1, work in Cable Patt to last st, M1, K1. 2 sts inc’d.

yarn C, 8 rows in yarn D and 0 (2:2:4:6) rem rows in yarn A. Cast off 2 (3:4:5:5) sts at beg of next 2 rows. 56 (60:62:66:68) sts. Cast off 3 sts at beg of next 2 rows. 50 (54:56:60:62) sts. Cast off 2 sts at beg of next 8 (10:10:10:10) rows. 34 (34:36:40:42) sts. Cast off 1 st at beg of next 6 (6:6:6:8) rows. 28 (28:30:34:34) sts. Cast off 2 sts at beg of next 8 (8:8:10:10) rows. 12 (12:14:14:14) sts. Cast off 3 sts at beg of next 2 rows. 6 (6:8:8:8) sts. Cast off rem sts.

TO MAKE UP Join shoulder seams.

FRONT BAND With RS facing, using 8mm circular needles, pick up and knit 113 (115:116:118: 119) sts up right front, 24 (24:26:26:28) sts across back neck and 113 (115:116:118:119) sts down left front. 250(254:258:262:266) sts. Rib row 1 (WS): K1, (P2, K2) to last st, K1. Rib row 2 (RS): K1, (P2, K2) to last st, K1. Work 1 more row in rib as set. Buttonhole row (RS): K1, rib 172 (176:180: 184:188), (cast off 2, rib until there are 16 sts on right needle) 4 times, cast off 2, rib 2 (including st left over from cast-off), K1. Next row (WS): K1, rib to last st, casting on 2 sts over cast-off sts from previous row, K1. Work 1 more row in rib as set.

SHAPE COLLAR Next row (WS): K1, rib 74 (76:78:80:82), pm, rib 100, pm, w&t, slm. Short rows 1 and 2: Rib to 3 sts before mrk, w&t. Short rows 3 and 4: Rib to 3 sts before last w&t, w&t. Rep last 2 short rows once more. Short rows 7 and 8: Rib to 4 sts before last w&t, w&t. Rep last 2 short rows another 5 times. Next 2 rows: Patt to end, working wraps together with wrapped sts. Cast off in rib.

Work 7 (5:5:5:3) rows straight. Rep inc row. 2 sts inc’d. Rep last 8 (6:6:6:4) rows another 5 (2:8:10:4) times. 58 (56:68:76:64) sts. Sizes XS, S, M and XL only Work 9 (7:7:-:5) rows straight. Rep inc row. 2 sts inc’d. Rep last 10 (8:8:-:6) rows another 0 (4:0:-:6) times. 60 (66:70:-:78) sts. All sizes Work 9 (9:9:5:9) rows straight, ending after a WS row. You should have just completed your 16th row in yarn B.

SHAPE SLEEVE TOP Note: When working stripe sequence for sleeve top, work 4 rows in yarn B, 16 rows in

The Knitter 52 Issue 155

FINISHING Join sleeve and side seams. Sew down pocket inners to inside of garment. Sew on buttons opposite buttonholes. Weave in ends and block gently to measurements, following any yarn care instructions on the ball band.

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F E AT U R E

The beauty of cables

TOP: ‘LINWOOD’ BY EMMA VINING, FROM THE KNITTER ISSUE 134. INSET: ‘CABLE SWEATER’ BY MARTIN STOREY FROM ‘DESIGNER KNITS’

Juliet Bernard explores the tradition of cable knitting, and speaks to leading designers working with this technique

ASK A non-knitter to picture a traditional hand knit, and the chances are they would imagine a cable jumper, rich with texture. From practical workwear to elegant wardrobe staples, cabled garments are wonderful projects to knit. In essence, the technique of cable knitting involves moving stitches around the surface of the fabric, to create lines and ropes of knit stitches in counterpoint to the purl background stitches.

Sharing patterns The origin of cable knitting is shrouded in myth. One school of thought is that cabling on garments has only been around since the middle of the 19th century, and was created by knitters in fishing communities. Certainly, this technique produces a thick and practical fabric, and some cables and motifs do resemble ropes and fishing nets. The gansey jumpers from Scotland and the north-east coast of England were

decorated with all kinds of cables and textures, and featured shortened sleeves to make it easier for fishermen to work. The designs may well have been passed on to coastal communities along the east coast of Britain as far down as Lowestoft in Suffolk, as the herring fleets followed this route. From around 1850 the famous ‘herring girls’ followed the fleet for work, taking their family gansey patterns with them and returning home with new ones. Examples of cabled knitwear can also be found throughout Europe. Bavarian twisted stitches, for example, are typically delicate and elegant. In the 1930s, Heinz Edgar Kiewe began to document the cable motifs he found being knitted on Ireland’s Aran Isles, linking them in his writing to images in the ancient Book of Kells and Celtic symbology. This is considered by many to be a romantic notion, but some Aran knitters maintain the patterns have links to the clan system and their identities, if you know how to interpret them. By the beginning of the 20th century, knitting garments of all

The Knitter 53 Issue 155

kinds, including cabled ones, was a source of income for poor communities, so it is more likely that the skills were passed on from Scotland to the Aran Isles and used to make jumpers to sell on.

Fashionable fabrics Cabled garments never seem to go out of fashion. From the early 1900s they were a part of a gentleman’s country attire, and they became popular with sportsmen playing cricket, rowing and sailing. Later, Hollywood stars such as Cary Grant and Steve McQueen made cables an essential part of a fashionable wardrobe. The catwalks have regularly shown elaborately cabled garments since Ralph Lauren adopted them into his preppy collections. Jean Paul Gaultier and Alexander McQueen have each elevated the cable knit into an art form over the years. The joy of cables is they aren’t as tricky as they look - you are just using an extra needle to move the stitches around, so if you are used to knitting with DPNs you will definitely be able to crack cables.

Cables Focus E M M A V I N I NG Emma has created a wealth of stunning, iconic cable designs for The Knitter, which feature intricate and elegant cable stitch patterns that are often inspired by urban architecture and historical artefacts in London’s V&A Museum. Influential cable designer Emma is herself a huge fan of Norah Gaughan’s work. “One of the first complex cable patterns that I knitted was Norah’s ‘Nantucket Jacket’ in 2006,” Emma recalls. “It has A-line shaping, is full of gorgeous texture and, best of all, uses both cables and twisted stitches!” Emma’s first original cable design for The Knitter was ‘Sugar Kelp’ back in 2013, in Issue 55. “This motif was inspired by a beautiful frond of seaweed that I found on a beach in Devon,” she says. Emma loves the fact that cable lines can be used to ‘draw’ pictures on the fabric. “My designs often begin with a sketch from which I pick out the key lines of the design,” she explains.

“For example, a sketch of tram tracks in the Belgian city of Ghent became ladders of zigzag cables with embedded texture for my jumper design for Issue 146. Sometimes translating these lines into knitting takes several attempts. However, each version can result in new design possibilities; experimentation is never wasted!” One of Emma’s favourite designs from her portfolio is the ‘Wych Elm’ cardigan from The Knitter issue 111. “This really encapsulates the idea of drawing on knitting. For this design, I used a series of travelling cable stitches to create linked leaf pattern panels.” www.emmavining handknitting.blogspot.com

‘Wych Elm’ from The Knitter issue 111

EMMA’S TOP TIP: “Try cabling without a cable needle. Once you get the hang of the technique, your cables will grow really quickly and you won’t need to look for your missing cable needle again!”

‘Bourne’, from the Rowan book Cape Bay

M A RT I N STOR E Y Thanks to his prolific and wonderfully creative work for Rowan, British designer Martin has become a national treasure. His designs - both for Rowan’s magazines and for his own range of pattern books - are popular all around the world. Martin was raised on a farm on the East Yorkshire coast, and was taught to knit by an inspirational primary school teacher. Eventually Martin went on to study fashion at Middlesex University, mixing with some of the most creative minds in the 1980s, which allowed him to cultivate his interest in hand knitting once more. After graduating, Martin began working for the knitwear design company Artwork, renowned for its use of denim yarn in cabled jumpers, and he was involved in creating these signature denim knits which sold all over the world. He then went on to work for Jaeger Hand Knits, and in 2005 he was chosen as the designer to spearhead the new brand of Rowan Classic, where his quintessentially British take on classic and elegant designs makes him one of the most popular UK designers today.

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Martin’s starting point for creating new combinations of cables is often from one of his large collection of source books, while also keeping a close eye on fashion and interior trends. He loves the sculptural effects which can be created with cable motifs, and which are so satisfying to knit. www.martinstorey.co.uk

MARTIN’S TOP TIP: “If you are new to cabling, start with something basic like a four-stitch or six-stitch back or front cross cable. Once you have understood how a simple cable works, and the holding and placing of the cable needle, then the rest will fall easily into place.”

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LUC Y H AGU E

how closely you can replicate the look and feel of carved stonework with yarn. “Celtic-style cables can be quite tricky to design, mainly due to the increases and decreases required – this has to be taken into account when drawing up the initial charts, and it can quickly get very complicated. Often my charts have so much extra space in them to account for all the stitches being added and removed that they hardly resemble the finished piece at all! I usually have to do a lot of swatching and finessing and redrawing the charts before I have something I’m happy with.” One of Lucy’s favourite pieces is her ‘Bain’ scarf. “This makes use of a new technique, of my own invention, to create completely reversible Celtic-style cables.” www.lucyhague.co.uk

‘Kirriemuir’ is a scarf design by Lucy Hague

LUCY’S TOP TIP: “Take it one step at a time; the instructions for a cable stitch can have a lot of steps. It’s worth thinking about each step as you complete it and paying attention to what’s happening to the order of stitches and the direction in which they cross.”

‘Geiger’ from BT Winter 18, knitted in Brooklyn Tweed Arbor yarn

NOR A H GAUGH A N Norah Gaughan is truly the queen of the cable, and her designs can be both challenging and deeply satisfying, pushing the knitter to fully explore the technique and their own skills. A figurehead of the industry, Norah’s body of work continues to excite knitters, and her new book, Twisted Stitch Sourcebook, will be published in early 2021. Norah grew up in an artistic household, with a dad who illustrated science fiction and a mom (also an illustrator) who passed on a love for fabrics and taught her how to sew and crochet. Norah learned to crochet first, but Elizabeth Zimmermann’s book, Knitting Without Tears, changed all that. Having studied biology and art, Norah began a long career designing knitting patterns for magazines, and then working as a design director for such brands as Adrienne Vittadini, Reynolds and Berroco, all under the encouragement of her friend and mentor, Margery Winter. Norah’s design influences are varied, and include fashion and fashion history, nature and, not surprisingly, biology. She prefers working in monotone, to better showcase her cable motifs. Perhaps Norah’s biggest achievement is her Knitted Cable Sourcebook, which

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was many years in the planning and has inspired knitters and designers all over the world. It has stitch patterns grouped in levels of difficulty and, by explaining how they work, it gives a springboard for knitters to design their own cables. What is Norah’s favourite knitwear design from her vast portfolio? “Today it is my ‘Stag Head Pullover’ - I love drawing pictures with cables,” she says. www.norahgaughan.net

NORAH’S TOP TIP: “If you are going to hold stitches in the back while working your cable, approach with your cable needle from the back and you won’t have to struggle with the stitches to get them to the back.”

PHOTOGRAPHY: JOSEPH FELLER

Lucy learnt to knit at a very young age, and like many of us came back to the craft in adulthood. “The most complex cable pattern that I made when rediscovering knitting was the ‘Rogue’ hoodie by Jenna Wilson,” Lucy recalls. “I think this was the first design that introduced me to the concept of closed-loop cables, which incorporate increases and decreases to give the impression of knitted loops. “These techniques are invaluable for knitting Celtic-style knotwork patterns, and so this set me off on a journey of discovering how to translate my own attempts at Celtic art into cable knitting.” As a designer, Lucy loves the three-dimensional quality of cable knitting. “Much of my work is inspired by carved Pictish stones, and it never fails to amaze me

Lucy Hague is from the Orkney Islands, off the north coast of Scotland. She takes inspiration from her local culture, particularly Celtic artwork, to create her intricate, flowing designs which often feature delicate closed-loop cables.

SIZE

YARN STOCKISTS

To fit head circumference: 53-58½cm (21-23in) Actual head circumference: 48cm (19in) Length from top of crown to hem: 23½cm (9¼in)

The Grey Sheep Co. 07771 741 346 www.thegreysheep.co.uk

YARN The Grey Sheep Co. Hampshire DK (DK weight; 100% British wool; 130m/142yds per 60g skein) No Where I Need To Be; 2 x 60g skeins

NEEDLES & ACCESSORIES 4mm (UK 8/US 6) circular needles, 40cm long 1 set 4mm (UK 8/US 6) double-pointed needles (DPNs) Stitch marker Cable needle (cn)

TENSION 24 sts and 28 rows to 10cm over cable patt using 4mm needles

JULIET BERNARD

Tollymore TO SHOWCASE the chunky cables, bobbles and textures on her latest hat design, Juliet Bernard has selected a DK-weight wool which offers excellent stitch definition. This is Hampshire DK from The Grey Sheep Co., which is a blend of British-farmed wools including Gotland and Stein, spun in Yorkshire and hand-dyed on The Grey Sheep farm.

HAT Using 4mm circular needles, cast on 100 sts. Pm and join to work in the round, taking care not to twist sts.

BRIM Rib rnd: *K3, P2; rep from * to end of rnd. This rnd sets rib. Rep rib rnd 9 more times. Inc rnd: *K1, M1, K2, P7, K1, M1, P1, M1, K1, P7; rep from * to end of rnd. 115 sts. Next rnd: *K4, P7, K2, P1, K2, P7; rep from * to end of rnd.

BEGIN CHART Repeating sts 5 times and and changing to DPNs or the magic loop method as needed when decreasing for crown, work from Chart or written instructions as follows:

CHART - WRITTEN INSTRUCTIONS Rnd 1: (C4F, P7, T5B, P7) 5 times. Rnd 2: (K4, P7, K2, P1, K2, P7) 5 times. Rnd 3: (K4, P6, T3B, P1, T3F, P6) 5 times.

Rnd 4: (K4, P6, K2, P3, K2, P6) 5 times. Rnd 5: (C4F, P5, T3B, P3, T3F, P5) 5 times. Rnd 6: *K4, (P5, K2) twice, P5; rep from * 4 more times. Rnd 7: (K4, P5, K2, P2, MB, P2, K2, P5) 5 times. Rnd 8: Rep Rnd 6. Rnd 9: (C4F, P5, T3F, P3, T3B, P5) 5 times. Rnd 10: Rep Rnd 4. Rnd 11: (K4, P6, T3F, P1, T3B, P6) 5 times. Rnd 12: Rep Rnd 2. Rnds 13-14: Rep Rnds 1-2. Rnd 15: (K4, P6, T3B, K1, T3F, P6) 5 times. Rnd 16: (K4, P6, K2, P1, K1, P1, K2, P6) 5 times. Rnd 17: (C4F, P5, T3B, K1, P1, K1, T3F, P5) 5 times. Rnd 18: *K4, P5, K2, (P1, K1) twice, P1, K2, P5; rep from * 4 more times. Rnd 19: *K4, P4, T3B, (K1, P1) twice, K1, T3F, P4; rep from * 4 more times. Rnd 20: *K4, P4, K2, (P1, K1) 3 times, P1, K2, P4; rep from * 4 more times. Rnd 21: *C4F, P3, T3B, (K1, P1) 3 times, K1, T3F, P3; rep from * 4 more times. Rnd 22: *K4, P3, K2, (P1, K1) 4 times, P1, K2, P3; rep from * 4 more times. Rnd 23: *K4, P3, T3F, (P1, K1) 3 times, P1, T3B, P3; rep from * 4 more times. Rnd 24: Rep Rnd 20. Rnd 25: *C4F, P4, T3F, (P1, K1) twice, P1, T3B, P4; rep from * 4 more times. Rnd 26: Rep Rnd 18. Rnd 27: (K4, P5, T3F, P1, K1, P1, T3B, P5) 5 times. Rnd 28: Rep Rnd 16. Rnd 29: (C4F, P6, T3F, P1, T3B, P6) 5 times. Rnd 30: Rep Rnd 2. Rnd 31: (K4, P7, T5B, P7) 5 times. Rnd 32: Rep Rnd 2. Rnd 33: (C4F, P6, T3B, P1, T3F, P6) 5 times. Rnd 34: Rep Rnd 4.

The Knitter 56 Issue 155

Rnd 35: (K4, P5, T3B, P3, T3F, P5) 5 times. Rnd 36: Rep Rnd 6. Rnd 37: (C4F, P2tog tbl, P3, K2, P2, MB, P2, K2, P3, P2tog) 5 times. 105 sts. Rnd 38: (K4, P4, K2, P5, K2, P4) 5 times. Rnd 39: (K4, P2tog tbl, P2, T3F, P3, T3B, P2, P2tog) 5 times. 95 sts. Rnd 40: (K4, P4, K2, P3, K2, P4) 5 times. Rnd 41: (C4F, P2tog tbl, P2, T3F, P1, T3B, P2, P2tog) 5 times. 85 sts. Rnd 42: (K4, P4, K2, P1, K2, P4) 5 times. Rnd 43: (K4, P2tog tbl, P2, T5B, P2, P2tog) 5 times. 75 sts. Rnd 44: (K4, P3, K2, P1, K2, P3) 5 times. Rnd 45: *C4F, P2tog tbl, (P1, K2) twice, P1, P2tog; rep from * 4 more times. 65 sts. Rnd 46: (K4, P2, K2, P1, K2, P2) 5 times. Rnd 47: (K4, P2tog tbl, K2, P1, K2, P2tog) 5 times. 55 sts. Rnd 48: *K4, (P1, K2) twice, P1; rep from * 4 more times. Rnd 49: (C4F, P2tog tbl, K1, P1, K1, P2tog) 5 times. 45 sts. Rnd 50: *K4, (P1, K1) twice, P1; rep from * 4 more times. Rnd 51: (K4, P1, s2kpo, P1) 5 times. 35 sts. Rnd 52: (K4, P1, K1, P1) 5 times. Rnd 53: (SSK, K2tog, s2kpo) 5 times. 15 sts. Dec rnd: *K2tog, K1; rep from * to end of rnd. 10 sts.

FINISHING Cut yarn, draw yarn tail through remaining sts and pull tight. Weave in all ends neatly on the WS. Block the hat to shape with steam, following any yarn care instructions on the ball band. v

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Tollymore SPECIAL ABBREVIATIONS

CHART

C4F: Slip 2 sts onto cn and hold at front, K2; K2 from cn. T3B: Slip 1 st onto cn and hold at back, K2; P1 from cn. T3F: Slip 2 sts onto cn and hold at front, P1; K2 from cn. T5B: Slip 3 sts onto cn and hold at back, K2; slip 1 left-most st from cn to LH needle, P1; K2 from cn. MB: Make a bobble as follows: knit into the front, then back, then front, then back, then front of the same stitch; (slip these 5 sts to LH needle, K5) twice; slip these 5 sts to LH needle, K2tog, K1, SSK; slip these 3 sts to LH needle, K3tog.

53 52 51 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 20

KEY

Knit Purl C4F T5B T3B T3F MB P2tog P2tog tbl K2tog SSK S2kpo

For general abbreviations, see p81

THIS BRITISH WOOL SHOWS OFF THE CABLES AND TEXTURES BEAUTIFULLY

CABLING WITHOUT A CABLE NEEDLE Create cables more quickly by setting aside your cable needle - it’s easy when you know how, as Jen Bartlett explains

About our expert Jen Bartlett is on the technical editing team of The Knitter. She loves to knit cables, and enjoys exploring new ways of achieving a professional finish for her knitting projects.

KNITTING CABLES without the use of a cable needle may seem a bit wild and dangerous, but rest assured, it’s very easy and will save you lots of time and fiddling. It’s especially quick with smaller cables of three or four stitches - the cables whizz past without all that messing around with a cable needle. You may also find your cables look tidier. To create cables without the use of a cable needle, you’ll be slipping and knitting the stitches that make up your cable and then doing the ‘pinch and pull’ manoeuvre: pinching the stitches with finger and thumb while pulling the needle out and then sliding it back in to reposition the stitches in a different order. Making sure your tension is even as you slip and knit will help keep the cables neater, and snugly knitting the first stitch after your completed cable will help reduce any gaps in your fabric. It may help to at first try this technique using a yarn that isn’t too slippery, because your stitches will be more likely to stay put if they are knitted in a woollier yarn. Also, trying it out on thicker yarns such as an aran-weight will make everything easier to see and manipulate.

the back of the slipped stitch on the right-hand needle. Pinch the base of these three stitches with your left thumb and forefinger and carefully pull the right-hand needle out of all of them. This leaves the one slipped stitch on the left hand needle and the two knitted stitches sitting in front. Insert the right-hand needle purlwise into the two dropped stitches. Knit the one slipped stitch.

Here are examples of how to work Cable 3 Front (C3F) and Cable 3 Back (C3B), which demonstrate the basics of needle movement, and can easily be translated to cable patterns with larger numbers of stitches.

CABLE 3 FRONT (LEFT LEANING CABLE) 1 Work to where you want to place your

cable. Hold the yarn to the back of the work and slip the next two stitches purlwise onto the right-hand needle. 2 Keeping the working yarn at the back of the work, knit the next stitch on the left-hand needle. 3 Insert the left needle through the front of the two slipped stitches on the right-hand needle. 4 Pinch the base of these three stitches with your left thumb and forefinger, and carefully pull the right-hand needle out of all of them. This leaves the two slipped stitches on the left-hand needle and the one knitted stitch sitting behind. 5 Insert the right-hand needle purlwise into the dropped stitch. 6 Knit the two slipped stitches.

These techniques can easily be altered if you are doing larger or smaller cables, by changing the number of stitches slipped and knitted (or purled!). As you become more experienced, I hope you’ll find that, except perhaps for extra-large cables with lots of stitches, you need never bother with a cable needle again. Enjoy your freedom!

CABLE 3 BACK (RIGHT LEANING CABLE) 7 Work to where you want to place your

cable. Hold the yarn to the front of the work and slip the next stitch purlwise onto the right-hand needle. 8 Bring the working yarn to the back of the work and knit the next two stitches on the left-hand needle. 9 Insert the left-hand needle through The Knitter 58 Issue 155

Our examples show how to work C3F and C3B cables, but can be applied to larger cables, too

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Masterclass

The Knitter 59 Issue 155

SANDRA NESBITT

Gwenvor Panels of lace rib and striped edgings brighten this cropped raglan cardigan The Knitter

Issue 155

Gwenvor The boxy design is fastened with a single button at the neck

SIZE TO FIT BUST

ACTUAL BUST ACTUAL LENGTH SLEEVE SEAM

8-10

12-14

16-18

20-22

24-26

28-30

81-86

91-97

102-107

112-117

122-127

132-137

32-34

36-38

40-42

44-46

48-50

52-54

100

111

122

131

142

35¼

39¼

51¾

41½

44½

46½

15¾

16¼

17¼

17½

17¾

18¼

17¼

YARN Cascade Yarns 220 Superwash (Heavy DK weight; 100% wool; 200m/220yds per 100g ball)

SANDRA NESBITT

Gwenvor KNITTED IN a DK-weight wool, this cropped cardigan by Sandra Nesbitt is a versatile piece for year-round wear. It features panels of lace rib which are worked on the front sections, sleeves and back, and which stand out well on a background of reverse stocking stitch. Complementing the bright colour of the main fabric are striped, two-colour garter stitch edgings; the project is knitted in Cascade’s popular 220 wool.

STITCH PATTERNS LACE PATTERN (written instructions) Row 1 (RS): (K1tbl, P1) 4 times, K3tog, yo, K1, yo, sk2po. 2 sts dec’d. Row 2 (WS): P1, yo, P3, yo, P1, (K1, P1tbl) 4 times. 2 sts inc’d. Row 3: (K1tbl, P1) 4 times, K7. Row 4: P7, (K1, P1tbl) 4 times. Rows 5-16: Repeat rows 1-4 another 3 times. Row 17: K3tog, yo, K1, yo, sk2po, (P1, K1tbl) 4 times. 2 sts dec’d. Row 18: (P1tbl, K1) 4 times, P1, yo, P3, yo, P1. 2 sts inc’d. Row 19: K7, (P1, K1tbl) 4 times. Row 20: (P1tbl, K1) 4 times, P7. Rows 21-32: Repeat rows 17-20 another 3 times.

BACK Using 4mm needles and yarn B, cast on 95 (105:117:127:139:149) sts.

A SEAFOAM HEATHER (1973)

x100g BALLS

B BABY DENIM (897)

x100g BALLS

B BLUE (846)

x100g BALLS

WORK LOWER BORDER

Repeat last 2 rows until 37 (37:39:41:43:45) sts remain. Place 37 (37:39:41:43:45) sts on a holder.

Change to yarn A. Set-up row 1 (RS): Knit. Set-up row 2 (WS): K31 (36:42:47:53:58), P7, (K1, P1tbl) 4 times, K3, P7, (K1, P1) 4 times, K31 (36:42:47:53:58).

RIGHT FRONT Using 4mm needles and yarn B, cast on 47 (53:59:65:69:75) sts.

Row 1 (RS): P31 (36:42:47:53:58), work row 1 of Lace Pattern from chart overleaf or from written instructions, P3, work row 1 of Lace Pattern, P31 (36:42:47:53:58). Row 2 (WS): K31 (36:42:47:53:58), work row 2 of Lace Pattern, K3, work row 2 of Lace Pattern, K31 (36:42:47:53:58). Rows 1 and 2 set position of Lace Pattern and rev st st. Cont to work Lace Pattern and rev st st as set until Back meas 20cm from cast-on edge, ending after a WS row.

SHAPE RAGLAN Rows 1-2: Cast off 2 (3:4:4:5:6) sts, patt to end. 91 (99:109:119:129:137) sts.

WORK LOWER BORDER Change to yarn A. Set-up row 1 (RS): Knit. Set-up row 2 (WS): K30 (36:42:48:52:58), P7, (K1, P1tbl) 4 times, K2. Row 1 (RS): P2, work row 1 of Lace Pattern, K30 (36:42:48:52:58). Row 2 (WS): K30 (36:42:48:52:58), work row 2 of Lace Pattern, K2. Rows 1 and 2 set position of Lace Pattern and rev st st. Cont to work Lace Pattern and rev st st as set until work meas 20cm from cast-on edge, ending after a WS row.

SHAPE RAGLAN Row 3 (RS): K1, K2tog tbl, patt to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 2 sts dec’d. Row 4: K1, P2tog, patt to last 3 sts, P2tog tbl, K1. 2 sts dec’d. Row 5: K1, K2tog tbl, patt to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 2 sts dec’d. Row 6: K1, P1, patt to last 2 sts, P1, K1. Repeat last 4 rows another 0 (2:3:6:9:10) times. 85 (81:85:77:69:71) sts.

The Knitter 62 Issue 155

Row 1 (RS): Patt as set. Row 2: Cast off 2 (3:4:4:5:6) sts, patt to end. 45 (50:55:61:64:69) sts. Row 3: Patt to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 1 st dec’d. Row 4: K1, P2tog, patt to end. 1 st dec’d. Row 5: As row 3. 1 st dec’d. Row 6: K1, P1, patt to end. Repeat last 4 rows another 0 (2:3:6:9:10) times.

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Gwenvor

1 pair 4mm (UK 8/US 6) knitting needles 1 x 2cm button 5 stitch holders

TENSION 21 sts and 27 rows to 10cm over st st on 4mm needles. 1 repeat of lace pattern measures 6cm wide by 10.5cm high.

YARN STOCKISTS Cascade Yarns www.cascadeyarns.com Available in the UK from: LoveCrafts www.lovecrafts.com Wool Warehouse www.woolwarehouse.co.uk

BLOCKING DIAGRAM 40 (41½:44:44½:45:46½) cm

NEEDLES & ACCESSORIES

44cm

44½ (50:55½:61:65½:71) cm

For general abbreviations, see p81

42 (41:43:40:34:36) sts. Repeat last 2 rows until 29 (30:31:33:34:36) sts remain.

SHAPE NECK Row 1 (RS): Cast off 8 (8:8:9:9:10) sts, patt to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 20 (21:22:23:24:25) sts. Row 2: K1, P1, patt to end. Row 3: Cast off 5 (6:7:8:7:8) sts, patt to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 14 (14:14:14:16:16) sts. Row 4: K1, P1, patt to end. Row 5: Cast off 3 sts, patt to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 10 (10:10:10:12:12) sts. Row 6: K1, P1, patt to end. Row 7: Patt to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 1 st dec’d. Row 8: K1, P1, patt to end. Repeat last 2 rows until 2 sts remain. Place 2 sts on a holder.

LEFT FRONT Using 4mm needles and yarn B, cast on 47 (53:59:65:69:75) sts.

WORK LOWER BORDER Change to yarn A. Set-up row 1 (RS): Knit. Set-up row 2 (WS): K2, P7, (K1, P1) 4 times, K30 (36:42:48:52:58). Row 1 (RS): K30 (36:42:48:52:58), work Row 1 of Lace Pattern, P2.

Striped edgings are worked in garter stitch

The Knitter 63 Issue 155

Gwenvor CHART 32

1 15

KEY

20 (21:22:23:24:25) sts. Row 3: K1, K2tog tbl, patt to end. 19 (20:21:22:23:24) sts. Row 4: Cast off 5 (6:7:8:7:8) sts, patt to end. 14 (14:14:14:16:16) sts. Row 5: K1, K2tog tbl, patt to end. 13 (13:13:13:15:15) sts. Row 6: Cast off 3 sts, patt to end. 10 (10:10:10:12:12) sts. Row 7: K1, K2tog tbl, patt to end. 1 st dec’d. Row 8: Patt as set. Repeat last 2 rows until 2 sts remain. Place 2 sts on a holder.

SLEEVES (both alike) Using 4mm needles and yarn B, cast on 41 (43:45:47:49:51) sts.

WORK LOWER BORDER

K on RS; P on WS P on RS; K on WS K1 tbl on RS; P1 tbl on WS K3tog

Sk2po

No stitch

Row 2 (WS): K2, work row 2 of Lace Pattern, P30 (36:42:48:52:58). Rows 1 and 2 set position of Lace Pattern and rev st st. Cont to work Lace Pattern as set until work meas 20cm from cast-on edge, ending after a WS row.

Change to yarn A.

Inc row (RS): K1, M1, work in patt as set to last 2 sts, M1, K1. 2 sts inc’d.

Row 1 (RS): Cast off 2 (3:4:4:5:6) sts, patt to end. 45 (50:55:61:64:69) sts.

Then inc every foll 10th (8th:8th:6th:6th: 6th) row there are 67 (73:79:87:93:99) sts.

Row 2: Patt as set. Row 3: K1, K2tog tbl, patt to end. 1 st dec’d. Row 4: Patt to last 3 sts, P2tog tbl, K1. 1 st dec’d. Row 5: As Row 3. 1 st dec’d. Row 6: Patt to last 2 sts, P1, K1. Repeat last 4 rows another 0 (2:3:6:9:10) times. 42 (41:43:40:34:36) sts. Repeat last 2 rows until 29 (30:31:33:34:36) sts remain.

SHAPE NECK Row 1 (RS): K1, K2tog tbl, patt to end. 28 (29:30:32:33:35) sts. Row 2: Cast off 8 (8:8:9:9:10) sts, patt to end.

Using yarn C and with RS facing, rejoin yarn to top of right front edging. Pick up and knit 15 (17:18:19:20:20) sts evenly around right front neckline, knit across 2 (2:2:2:2:2) sts at top of right front, 5 (5:5:5:5:5) sts at top of sleeve, 37 (37:39:41:43:45) sts from Back, 5 (5:5:5:5:5) sts at top of sleeve, 2 (2:2:2:2:2) sts across top of left front, and pick up and knit 15 (17:18:19:20:20) sts evenly around left front neckline. 81 (85:89:93:97:99 sts). Knit 3 rows. Cast off.

RIGHT FRONT BAND Using yarn B and with RS facing, pick up and knit 67 (70:75:76:74:77) sts up right front. Knit 3 rows. Change to yarn C. Knit 3 rows. Cast off.

Continue in pattern as set without shaping until work meas 44cm from cast-on edge, ending after a WS row.

SHAPE RAGLAN Work rows 1-6 as given for Back raglan. 57 (61:65:73:77:81) sts. Repeat last 4 rows another 0 (0:0:2:3:3) times. 57 (61:65:61:59:63) sts.

LOWER BORDER Using yarn B and with RS facing, pick up and knit 1 stitch for every stitch around the lower edge of the garment. Knit 4 rows. Change to yarn C. Knit 4 rows.

MAKING UP

Next row: K1, K2tog tbl, patt to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 2 sts dec’d. Next row: K1, P1, patt to last 2 sts, P1tbl, K1. Repeat the last 2 rows until 13 sts remain. Next row: K1, K2tog tbl, patt to last 3 sts,

The Knitter 64 Issue 155

Join raglan pieces using mattress stitch.

Using yarn B and with RS facing, pick up and knit 67 (70:75:76:74:77) sts down left front. Knit 2 rows. Next row: Knit to last 7 sts, cast off 3 sts, knit to end. Change to yarn C. Next row: Knit, casting on 3 sts over those 3 sts cast off on previous row. Knit 2 rows. Cast off.

Row 1 (RS): P13 (14:15:16:17:18), work row 1 of Lace Pattern, P13 (14:15:16:17:18). Row 2: K13 (14:15:16:17:18), work row 2 of Lace Pattern, K13 (14:15:16:17:18). Rows 1 and 2 set position of centre Lace Pattern and rev st st.

SHAPE RAGLAN

NECKBAND

LEFT FRONT BAND

Set-up row 1 (RS): Knit. Set-up row 2 (WS): K13 (14:15:16:17:18), P7, (K1, P1tbl) 4 times, K13 (14:15:16:17:18).

Keeping pattern correct, inc as set at each end of every foll 8th (6th:6th:4th:4th:4th) row until there are 55 (49:67:55:69:83) sts.

K2tog, K1. 2 sts dec’d. Next row: K1, P2tog, patt to last 3 sts, P2tog tbl, K1. 2 sts dec’d. Rep last 2 rows once more. 5 sts. Place 5 sts on a holder.

Weave in ends and block gently to measurements, following any yarn care instructions on the ball band. Sew button to top left front to line up with buttonhole. Block and press seams lightly.

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LISA RICHARDSON

Iman

Taking cues from Shetland lace traditions, this intricate wrap is knitted in a super-soft yarn

The Knitter

Issue 155

LISA RICHARDSON

Iman INTRICATE PATTERNING inspired by traditional Shetland lace decorates this lightweight shawl by Lisa Richardson, the companion piece to the ‘Bowie’ short-sleeved top which appeared in Issue 154. Lisa’s design is knitted in Rowan’s laceweight Fine Lace yarn, which combines baby suri alpaca and fine merino wool, and comes in 16 bright and pastel shades. It’s advised to block the shawl carefully to showcase the full beauty of the lace stitches.

SHAWL Using 3mm circular needles, cast on 6 sts. Row 1 (RS): Knit. Row 2: K into front and back of every st. 12 sts. Row 3: Sl 1, K1, (P2, yo, K1, yo) twice, P2, K2. 16 sts. Row 4: Sl 1, K1, (K2, P3) twice, K4. Row 5: Sl 1, K1, *P2, (K1, yo) twice, K1; rep from * once more, P2, K2. 20 sts. Row 6: Sl 1, K1, (K2, P5) twice, K4. Row 7: Sl 1, K1, (P2, K2, yo, K1, yo, K2) twice, P2, K2. 24 sts. Row 8: Sl 1, K1, (K2, P7) twice, K4. Row 9: Sl 1, K1, (P2, K3, yo, K1, yo, K3) twice, P2, K2. 28 sts. Row 10: Sl 1, K1, (K2, P9) twice, K4. Row 11: Sl 1, K1, (P2, K4, yo, K1, yo, K4) twice, P2, K2. 32 sts. Row 12: Sl 1, K1, (K1, yo, K1, P11) twice, K1, yo, K3. 35 sts. Row 13: Sl 1, K1, P1, inc 2, *P1, K4, s2kpo, K4*, P1, yo, inc 2, yo; rep from * to * once more, P1, inc 2, P1, K2. 39 sts. Row 14: Sl 1, K3, P1, *K2, P9, K2, P1*, PFB, P1; rep from * to * once more, K4. 40 sts. Row 15: Sl 1, K1, (P2, yo, K1, yo, P2, K3, s2kpo, K3, P2, yo, K1, yo) twice, P2, K2. 44 sts. Row 16: Sl 1, K1, (K2, P3, K2, P7, K2, P3)

SIZE

IMAN TENSION

Width: 238cm (93¾in) Length: 119cm (46¾in)

28 sts and 36 rows to 10cm over patt on 3mm needles

YARN

YARN STOCKISTS

Rowan Fine Lace (Lace weight; 80% alpaca, 20% wool; 400m/437yds per 50g ball) Ruby (953); 6 x 50g balls

Rowan 01484 668200 www.knitrowan.com

NEEDLES & ACCESSORIES

p2sso: Pass 2 slipped stitches over. Inc 2: K into front, back and front again of next st (this is yo of previous row). For general abbreviations, see p81

SPECIAL ABBREVIATIONS

3mm (UK 11/US 2-3) circular needles, at least 120cm long Stitch markers

twice, K4. Row 17: Sl 1, K1, (P2, K1, yo, K1, yo, K1, P2, K2, s2kpo, K2, P2, K1, yo, K1, yo, K1) twice, P2, K2. 48 sts. Row 18: Sl 1, K3, *P5, K2; rep from * to last 2 sts, K2. Row 19: Sl 1, K1, (P2, K2, yo, K1, yo, K2, P2, K1, s2kpo, K1, P2, K2, yo, K1, yo, K2) twice, P2, K2. 52 sts. Row 20: Sl 1, K1, (K2, P7, K2, P3, K2, P7) twice, K4. Row 21: Sl 1, K1, (P2, K3, yo, K1, yo, K3, P2, s2kpo, P2, K3, yo, K1, yo, K3) twice, P2, K2. 56 sts. Row 22: Sl 1, K1, (K2, P9, K2, P1, K2, P9) twice, K4. Row 23: Sl 1, K1, (P2, K4, yo, K1, yo, K4, P2, K1, P2, K4, yo, K1, yo, K4) twice, P2, K2. 64 sts. Row 24: Sl 1, K2, (yo, K1, P11, K2, P1, K2, P11, K1) twice, yo, K3. 67 sts. Row 25: Sl 1, K1, P1, inc 2, *P1, K4, s2kpo, K4, P2, K1, P2, K4, s2kpo, K4*, P1, yo, inc 2, yo; rep from * to * once more, P1, inc 2, P1, K2. Row 26: Sl 1, K1, (K2, P1, K2, P9) twice, K2, P1, inc purlwise in next st, P1, K2, (P9, K2, P1, K2) twice, K2. 68 sts. With RS facing, place a marker on the needle after 35th stitch. (35 sts before mrk and 33 sts after mrk.) Row 27: Sl 1, K1, P2, yo, K1, yo, P2, *K3, s2kpo, K3, P2, yo, K1, yo, P2**; rep from * to mrk, slm, yo, K1, yo, P2; rep from * to ** to last 2 sts, K2. 72 sts. Row 28: Sl 1, K3, P3, *K2, P7, K2, P3**; rep from * to mrk, slm, K2, P3; rep from * to ** to last 4 sts, K4. Row 29: Sl 1, K1, P2, K1, (yo, K1) twice, P2, *K2, s2kpo, K2, P2, K1, (yo, K1) twice, P2**; rep from * to mrk, slm, K1, (yo, K1) twice, P2; rep from * to ** to last 2 sts, K2. 76 sts. Row 30: Sl 1, K3, *P5, K2; rep from * to last

The Knitter 66 Issue 155

2 sts (slipping mrk as you go), K2. Row 31: Sl 1, K1, P2, K2, yo, K1, yo, K2, P2, *K1, s2kpo, K1, P2, K2, yo, K1, yo, K2, P2**; rep from * to mrk, slm, K2, yo, K1, yo, K2, P2; rep from * to ** to last 2 sts, K2. 80 sts. Row 32: Sl 1, K3, P7, *K2, P3, K2, P7**; rep from * to mrk, slm, K2, P7; rep from * to ** to last 4 sts, K4. Row 33: Sl 1, K1, P2, K3, yo, K1, yo, K3, P2, *s2kpo, P2, K3, yo, K1, yo, K3, P2**; rep from * to mrk, slm, K3, yo, K1, yo, K3, P2; rep from * to ** to last 2 sts, K2. 84 sts. Row 34: Sl 1, K3, P9, *K2, P1, K2, P9**; rep from * to mrk, slm, K2, P9; rep from * to ** to last 4 sts, K4. Row 35: Sl 1, K1, P2, K4, yo, K1, yo, K4, P2, *K1, P2, K4, yo, K1, yo, K4, P2**; rep from * to mrk, slm, K4, yo, K1, yo, K4, P2; rep from * to ** to last 2 sts, K2. 96 sts. Row 36: Sl 1, K2, yo, K1, P11, *K2, P1, K2, P11**; rep from * to mrk, slm, K1, yo, K1, P11; rep from * to ** to last 4 sts, K1, yo, K3. 99 sts. Row 37: Sl 1, K1, P1, inc 2, P1, K4, s2kpo, K4, *P2, K1, P2, K4, s2kpo, K4**; rep from * to within 3 sts of mrk, P1, yo, inc 2, yo, P1, slm, K4, s2kpo, K4; rep from * to ** to last 5 sts, P1, inc 2, P1, K2. 95 sts. Row 38: Sl 1, K1, *K2, P1, K2, P9; rep from * to mrk, remove mrk, K2, P1, replace mrk, inc purlwise in next st, P1, K2, **P9, K2, P1, K2; rep from ** to last 2 sts, K2. 96 sts. Note: The stitch counts given for rows 27 to 38 will be correct the first time they are worked; on subsequent repeats they will be different to those stated. Rep rows 27 to 38 a further 6 times, then rows 27 to 34 once more, ending with RS facing for next row. 280 sts. Remove mrk. Row 119: Sl 1, K1, P2, *(K4, yo, K1, yo, K4, P1, s2kpo, P1) 9 times, K4, yo, K1, yo, K4,

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Iman CHART

KEY

P2; rep from * once more, K2. 284 sts. Row 120: Sl 1, K1, *K1, yo, K1, P11, (K1, P1, K1, P11) 9 times; rep from * once more, K1, yo, K3. 287 sts. Row 121: Sl 1, K1, P1, inc 2, P1, *(yo, K4, yo, s2kpo) 19 times, yo, K4, yo**, P1, yo, inc 2, yo, P1; rep from * to ** once more, P1, inc 2, P1, K2. 299 sts. Row 122: Sl 1, K3, P1, K2, P139, K2, P1, inc purlwise in next st, P1, K2, P139, K2, P1, K4. 300 sts. Now work in patt as folls: Row 123: Sl 1, K1, *P2, yo, K1, yo, P2, yo, K2tog, K3, (yo, s2kpo, yo, K4) 18 times, yo, s2kpo, yo, K3, Sl 1, K1, psso, yo, P2, yo, K1, yo; rep from * once more, P2, K2. 308 sts. Row 124: Sl 1, K3, P3, K2, P139, (K2, P3) twice, K2, P139, K2, P3, K4. Row 125: Sl 1, K1, *P2, K1, (yo, K1) twice, P2, yo, Sl 1, K1, psso, (yo, K2tog, yo, K1, yo, s2kpo, yo, K1) 19 times, (yo, K2tog) twice, yo, P2, K1, (yo, K1) twice; rep from * once more, P2, K2. 356 sts. Row 126: Sl 1, K3, P5, K2, P159, (K2, P5) twice, K2, P159, K2, P5, K4. Row 127: Sl 1, K1, *P2, K2, yo, K1, yo, K2, P2, yo, Sl 1, K1, psso, (yo, s2kpo, yo, K1) 38 times, yo, s2kpo, yo, K2tog, yo, P2, K2, yo, K1, yo, K2; rep from * once more, P2, K2. 364 sts. Row 128: Sl 1, K3, P7, K2, P159, (K2, P7) twice, K2, P159, K2, P7, K4. Row 129: Sl 1, K1, *P2, K3, yo, K1, yo, K3, P2, yo, Sl 1, K1, psso, (yo, s2kpo, yo, K1) 38 times, yo, s2kpo, yo, K2tog, yo, P2, K3, yo, K1, yo, K3; rep from * once more, P2, K2. 372 sts. Row 130: Sl 1, K3, P9, K2, P159, (K2, P9) twice, K2, P159, K2, P9, K4. Row 131: Sl 1, K1, P2, *K4, yo, K1, yo, K4, P2, yo, Sl 1, K1, psso, (yo, s2kpo, yo, K1) 38 times, yo, s2kpo, yo, K2tog, yo, P2, K4, yo, K1, yo, K4, P2; rep from * once more, K2.

K on RS

K2tog on RS; Skpo on WS

K on WS

Skpo on RS; K2tog on WS

Sk2po

THE LACEWEIGHT YARN BLENDS BABY SURI ALPACA AND FINE MERINO

We featured the pattern for the matching â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Bowieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; top in Issue 154

380 sts. Row 132: Sl 1, K2, yo, K1, P11, K2, P159, K2, P11, K1, yo, K1, P11, K2, P159, K2, P11, K1, yo, K3. 383 sts. Row 133: Sl 1, K1, P1, inc 2, P1, *yo, K4, yo, s2kpo, yo, K4, (yo, Sl 1, K1, psso) twice, (yo, s2kpo, yo, K1) 38 times, yo, s2kpo, (yo, K2tog) twice, yo, K4, yo, s2kpo, yo, K4**, yo, P1, yo, inc 2, yo, P1; rep from * to ** once more, yrn, P1, inc 2, P1, K2. 395 sts. Row 134: Sl 1, K3, P1, K2, P187, K2, P1, inc purlwise in next st, P1, K2, P187, K2, P1, K4. 396 sts. Row 135: Sl 1, K1, *P2, yo, K1, yo, P2, yo, K2tog, K3, yo, s2kpo, yo, K4, (yo, s2kpo, yo, K1) 40 times, yo, s2kpo, yo, K4, yo,

The Knitter 67 Issue 155

s2kpo, yo, K3, Sl 1, K1, psso, yo, P2, yo, K1, yo; rep from * once more, P2, K2. 404 sts. Row 136: Sl 1, K3, P3, K2, P187, (K2, P3) twice, K2, P187, K2, P3, K4. Row 137: Sl 1, K1, *P2, K1, (yo, K1) twice, P2, yo, Sl 1, K1, psso, yo, K2tog, yo, K1, yo, s2kpo, yo, K1, yo, K2tog, yo, K1, (yo, s2kpo, yo, K1) 41 times, yo, K2tog, yo, K1, yo, s2kpo, yo, K1, (yo, K2tog) twice, yo, P2, K1, (yo, K1) twice; rep from * once more, P2, K2. 420 sts. Row 138: Sl 1, K3, P5, K2, P191, (K2, P5) twice, K2, P191, K2, P5, K4. Row 139: Sl 1, K1, *P2, K2, yo, K1, yo, K2, P2, yo, Sl 1 K1, psso, (yo, s2kpo, yo, K1) 46

Iman yo, K1) 48 times, yo, s2kpo, yo, K4, yo, s2kpo, yo, K3, Sl 1, K1, psso, yo, P2, yo, K1, yo; rep from * once more, P2, K2. 468 sts. Row 148: Sl 1, K3, P3, K2, P11, place mrk, P196, place mrk, P12, (K2, P3) twice, K2, P11, place mrk, P196, place mrk, P12, K2, P3, K4. The last 12 rows form patt and set increases. 4 mrks have now been placed across the row in order to help take inc sts into patt on subsequent rows. Take care to move mrks as indicated in the foll 12 rows. Note: The stitch counts given for rows 149 to 160 will be correct the first time they are worked; on subsequent repeats they will be different to those stated.

The deep border is worked in a Shetland fine lace pattern

times, yo, s2kpo, yo, K2tog, yo, P2, K2, yo, K1, yo, K2; rep from * once more, P2, K2. 428 sts. Row 140: Sl 1, K3, P7, K2, P191, (K2, P7) twice, K2, P191, K2, P7, K4. Row 141: Sl 1, K1, *P2, K3, yo, K1, yo, K3, P2, yo, Sl 1, K1, psso, (yo, s2kpo, yo, K1) 46 times, yo, s2kpo, yo, K2tog, yo, P2, K3, yo, K1, yo, K3; rep from * once more, P2, K2. 436 sts. Row 142: Sl 1, K3, P9, K2, P191, (K2, P9) twice, K2, P191, K2, P9, K4. Row 143: Sl 1, K1, *P2, K4, yo, K1, yo, K4, P2, yo, Sl 1, K1, psso, (yo, s2kpo, yo, K1) 46 times, yo, s2kpo, yo, K2tog, yo, P2, K4, yo, K1, yo, K4; rep from * once more, P2, K2. 444 sts. Row 144: Sl 1, K2, yo, K1, *P11, K2, P191, K2, P11, K1, yo, K1; rep from * once more, K2. 447 sts. Row 145: Sl 1, K1, P1, inc 2, P1, *yo, K4, yo, s2kpo, yo, K4, (yo, Sl 1, K1, psso) twice, (yo, s2kpo, yo, K1) 46 times, yo, s2kpo, (yo, K2tog) twice, yo, K4, yo, s2kpo, yo, K4**, yo, P1, yo, inc 2, yo, P1; rep from * to ** once more, yo, P1, inc 2, P1, K2. 459 sts. Row 146: Sl 1, K3, P1, K2, P219, K2, P1, inc purlwise in next st, P1, K2, P219, K2, P1, K4. 460 sts. Row 147: Sl 1, K1, *P2, yo, K1, yo, P2, yo, K2tog, K3, yo, s2kpo, yo, K4, (yo, s2kpo,

Row 149: Sl 1, K1, (P2, K1, yo, K1, yo, K1, P2, yo, Sl 1, K1, psso, yo, K2tog, yo, K1, yo, s2kpo, yo, K1, yo, K2tog, yo, K1, slm, *yo, s2kpo, yo, K1; rep from * to next mrk, remove mrk, yo, K2tog, yo, K1, yo, s2kpo, yo, K1, replace mrk, yo, K2tog, yo, K2tog, yo, P2, K1, yo, K1, yo, K1) twice, P2, K2. 484 sts. Row 150: Sl 1, K3, P5, K2, P5, slm, P to next mrk, remove mrk, P12, replace mrk, P2, (K2, P5) twice, K2, P5, slm, P to next mrk, remove mrk, P12, replace mrk, P2, K2, P5, K4. Row 151: Sl 1, K1, (P2, K2, yo, K1, yo, K2, P2, yo, Sl 1 K1, psso, slm, *yo, s2kpo, yo, K1; rep from * to next mrk, slm, yo, s2kpo, yo, K2tog, yo, P2, K2, yo, K1, yo, K2) twice, P2, K2. 492 sts. Row 152: Sl 1, K3, P7, K2, P5, slm, P to next mrk, slm, P2, (K2, P7) twice, K2, P5, slm, P to next mrk, slm, P2, K2, P7, K4. Row 153: Sl 1, K1, (P2, K3, yo, K1, yo, K3, P2, yo, Sl 1, K1, psso, slm, *yo, s2kpo, yo, K1; rep from * to next mrk, slm, yo, s2kpo, yo, K2tog, yo, P2, K3, yo, K1, yo, K3) twice, P2, K2. 500 sts. Row 154: Sl 1, K3, P9, K2, P5, slm, P to next mrk, slm, P2, (K2, P9) twice, K2, P5, slm, P to next mrk, slm, P2, K2, P9, K4. Row 155: Sl 1, K1, (P2, K4, yo, K1, yo, K4, P2, yo, Sl 1, K1, psso, slm, *yo, s2kpo, yo, K1; rep from * to next mrk, slm, yo, s2kpo, yo, K2tog, yo, P2, K4, yo, K1, yo, K4) twice, P2, K2. 508 sts. Row 156: Sl 1, K2, yo, K1, (P11, K2, P5, slm, P to next mrk, slm, P2, K2, P11, K1, yo, K1) twice, K2. 511 sts. Row 157: Sl 1, K1, P1, inc 2, P1, yo, K4, yo, s2kpo, yo, K4, (yo, Sl 1, K1, psso) twice, slm, *yo, s2kpo, yo, K1; rep from * to next mrk, remove mrk, yo, s2kpo, yo, K2tog, replace mrk, yo, K2tog, yo, K4, yo, s2kpo,

The Knitter 68 Issue 155

yo, K4, yo, P1, yo, inc 2, yo, P1, yo, K4, yo, s2kpo, yo, K4, (yo, Sl 1, K1, psso) twice, slm, **yo, s2kpo, yo, K1; rep from ** to next mrk, remove mrk, yo, s2kpo, yo, K2tog, replace mrk, yo, K2tog, yo, K4, yo, s2kpo, yo, K4 yo, P1, inc 2, P1, K2. 523 sts. Row 158: Sl 1, K3, *P1, K2, P15, slm, P to next mrk, remove mrk, P4, replace mrk, P12, K2, P1**, inc purlwise in next st; rep from * to ** once more, K4. 524 sts. Row 159: Sl 1, K1, (P2, yo, K1, yo, P2, yo, K2tog, K3, yo, s2kpo, yo, K4, slm, *yo, s2kpo, yo, K1; rep from * to next mrk, slm, yo, s2kpo, yo, K4, yo, s2kpo, yo, K3, Sl 1, K1, psso, yo, P2, yo, K1, yo) twice, P2, K2. 532 sts. Row 160: Sl 1, K3, P3, K2, P15, slm, P to next mrk, slm, P12, (K2, P3) twice, K2, P15, slm, P to next mrk, slm, P12, K2, P3, K4. Rep rows 149 to 160 a further 5 times, then rep rows 149 to 159 once more. 916 sts. Row 232: Sl 1, K3, P3, K2, P15, slm, P to next mrk, slm, P12, (K1, M1, K1, P3) twice, K2, P15, slm, P to next mrk, slm, P12, K2, P3, K4. 918 sts. Now work border as folls: With RS facing, cast on 33 sts. 951 sts. Row 1 (RS): Work first 34 sts as given for row 1 of Chart, turn, leaving rem shawl sts unworked. Row 2: Work as given for row 2 of Chart. These 2 rows set position of chart. The border is joined to the main shawl piece by working the final decrease at the end of every RS chart row using one stitch from the border knitted together with one stitch from the shawl. Beg with row 3, and repeating the 18-row patt repeat throughout, cont in patt from chart until 33 sts rem, ending with chart row 18. Cast off.

MAKING UP Block and lightly press to measurements, following any yarn care instructions on the ball band.

This pattern is taken from Rowanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s seasonal design collection, Knitting & Crochet Magazine 67, which has 35 projects for women. For stockists, call 01484 668200 or visit www.knitrowan.com.

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JODY LONG

Arran

This timeless cable sweater has waist shaping for a feminine fit The Knitter

Issue 155

NEEDLES & ACCESSORIES

SIZE S TO FIT BUST

81-86

1XL

2XL

91-97 102-107 112-117 122-127

32-34 36-38 40-42 44-46 48-50

101

113

125

137

39½

44¼

53¾

26¾

27½

28¼

29¼

17¼

17¾

ACTUAL BUST

ACTUAL LENGTH

SLEEVE SEAM

Arran THE WARM shade of gorse yellow used on this jumper evokes Britain’s wild moorland, and perfectly complements the cable patterning. The hip-length garment has waist shaping for a feminine fit, and has set-in sleeves. Jody Long’s design uses his own yarn, Alba, which is a soft blend of merino wool, alpaca and viscose. It’s available in a palette of 12 tweedy shades.

BACK Using 3.25mm needles, cast on 181 (207:233:259:285) sts. Row 1 (RS): *(P2, K2) 3 times, P1, (K2, P2) 3 times, Sl 1 pwise wyib; rep from * to last 25 sts, (P2, K2) 3 times, P1, (K2, P2) 3 times. Row 2: *(K2, P2) 3 times, K1, (P2, K2) 3 times, P1; rep from * to last 25 sts, (K2, P2) 3 times, K1, (P2, K2) 3 times. These 2 rows form rib. Work in rib for a further 8 rows, ending after a WS row. Change to 3.75mm needles. Now work in patt as folls or from Body Chart: Row 1 (RS): P6, K6, P1, K6, P6, *Sl 1 pwise wyib, P6, K6, P1, K6, P6; rep from * to end. Row 2: K6, P6, K1, P6, K6, *P1, K6, P6, K1, P6, K6; rep from * to end. Rows 3 and 4: As rows 1 and 2. Row 5: P6, C6B, P1, C6F, P6, *Sl 1 pwise wyib, P6, C6B, P1, C6F, P6; rep from * to end.

TENSION 30 sts and 33 rows to 10cm over patt on 3.75mm needles. 26-st pattern repeat meas approx. 6¼cm across.

YARN STOCKISTS

YARN JODY LONG

1 pair 3.25mm (UK 10/US 3) knitting needles 1 pair 3.75mm (UK 9/US 5) knitting needles Cable needle (cn) Locking stitch marker Stitch holders

Jody Long Alba (DK weight; 50% merino wool, 25% alpaca, 25% viscose; 350m/382yds per 100g ball) GORSE (005)

x100g BALLS

Jody Long c/o Knitting Fever www.knittingfever.com Available from Deramores www.deramores.com

Row 6: As row 2. Rows 7 and 8: As rows 1 and 2. These 8 rows form patt.

Cont straight until Back meas 47 (48:49:50: 51) cm from cast-on edge, ending after a WS row.

Keeping patt correct throughout, cont as folls: Work 5 rows straight, ending after a RS row.

SHAPE ARMHOLES Keeping patt correct, cast off 5 (7:9:11:13) sts at beg of next 2 rows. 125 (139:153:167:181) sts. Dec 1 st at each end of next 5 (7:9:11:13) rows, then on foll 6 (8:10:12:14) alt rows. 103 (109:115:121:127) sts. Cont straight until armhole meas 19 (20:21:22:23) cm, ending after a WS row.

Next row (WS): K6, P6, K1, P6, K6, *P1 and mark this st with a locking stitch marker, K6, P6, K1, P6, K6; rep from * to end.

SHAPE WAIST Next row (RS): *Patt to within 3 sts of marked st, P2tog, patt 3 sts (marked st is central st of these 3 sts), P2tog tbl; rep from * 6 (7:8:9:10) times more, patt to end. Now working one less st in rev st st at each side of marked sts, work 19 rows straight. Rep last 20 rows twice more, and the dec row again. 125 (143:161:179:197) sts. You should have 2 sts in rev st st at each side of marked sts. Remove markers. Now working patt as now set, work 11 (11:13:13:15) rows straight, ending after a WS row. Inc 1 st at each end of next and 4 foll 12th rows, taking inc sts into rev st st. 135 (153:171:189:207) sts.

The Knitter 70 Issue 155

SHAPE SHOULDERS AND BACK NECK Keeping patt correct, cast off 8 (9:10:10:11) sts at beg of next 2 rows. 87 (91:95:101:105) sts. Next row (RS): Cast off 8 (9:10:10:11) sts, patt until there are 12 (12:13:14:15) sts on right needle and turn, leaving rem 67 (70:72:77:79) sts on a holder. Cast off 4 sts at beg of next row. Cast off rem 8 (8:9:10:11) sts. Return to sts left on holder and slip centre 47 (49:49:53:53) sts onto another holder (for Neckband). Rejoin yarn with RS facing and patt to end. Cast off 8 (9:10:10:11) sts at beg of next row, then 4 sts at beg of foll row. Cast off rem 8 (8:9:10:11) sts.

FRONT Work as given for Back until 20 (20:22:22: 22) rows less have been worked than on

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Arran SPECIAL ABBREVIATIONS

BLOCKING DIAGRAM

44½ (50½:56½:62½:68½) cm

For details of yarns by Jody Long and patterns for men, women and children, and to find stockist information, visit www.knittingfever.com

Back to beg of shoulder shaping, ending after a WS row. 103 (109:115:121:127) sts.

SHAPE FRONT NECK Next row (RS): Patt 35 (37:41:42:45) sts and turn, leaving rem sts on a holder. Work on this set of sts only for first side of neck as folls: Keeping patt correct, dec 1 st at neck edge of next 6 rows, then on foll 4 (4:5:5:5) alt rows, then on foll 4th row. 24 (26:29:30:33) sts. Work 1 row, ending after a WS row.

SHAPE SHOULDER Cast off 8 (9:10:10:11) sts at beg of next and foll alt row. Work 1 row. Cast off rem 8 (8:9:10:11) sts. Return to sts left on holder and slip centre 33 (35:33:37:37) sts onto another holder (for Neckband). Rejoin yarn with RS facing and patt to end. Keeping patt correct, dec 1 st at neck edge of next 6 rows, then on foll 4 (4:5:5:5) alt rows, then on foll 4th row. 24 (26:29:30:33) sts. Work 2 rows, ending after a RS row.

SHAPE SHOULDER Cast off 8 (9:10:10:11) sts at beg of next and foll alt row. Work 1 row. Cast off rem 8 (8:9:10:11) sts.

The hip-length jumper is designed for a neat fit

44 (45:46:46:46) cm

66 (68:70:72:74) cm

C6B: Slip next 3 sts onto cn and leave at back of work, K3, then K3 from cn. C6F: Slip next 3 sts onto cn and leave at front of work, K3, then K3 from cn. For general abbreviations, see p81

Arran CHARTS

KEY K on RS; P on WS

Body Chart 8 6 4

P on RS; K on WS

Sl 1 pwise wyib

C6B

1 50

C6F

Repeat

Sleeve Chart 20

1 75

1XL 2XL

The cables flow into the ribbed edgings

Keeping patt correct, cast off 5 (7:9:11:13) sts at beg of next 2 rows. 91 (93:95:97:99) sts. Dec 1 st at each end of next 9 rows, then on every foll alt row until 51 sts rem, then on foll 7 rows, ending after a WS row. 37 sts. Cast off 4 sts at beg of next 4 rows. Cast off rem 21 sts.

1XL 2XL

FINISHING

MAKING UP NECKBAND With RS facing and using 3.25mm needles, pick up and knit 20 (20:21:21:21) sts down left side of front neck, work across

The Knitter 72 Issue 155

Row 1 (WS): P2, *K2, P2; rep from * to end. Row 2: K2, *P2, K2; rep from * to end. These 2 rows form rib. Cont in rib for a further 5 rows, ending after a WS row. Cast off in rib.

Join right shoulder seam. Change to 3.75mm needles. Now repeating Sleeve Chart rows 13 to 20 throughout, and working edge sts in st st if they fall partway through a cable, shape sleeve as folls:

33 (35:33:37:37) sts on front holder as folls: K1 (2:1:3:3), *SSK, K2tog, K5, SSK, K2tog**, K2, K2tog, K1; rep from * to ** once more, K1 (2:1:3:3), pick up and knit 20 (20:21:21:21) sts up right side of front neck, and 3 sts down right side of back neck, work across 47 (49:49:53:53) sts on back holder as folls: K1 (2:2:4:4), K2tog, (K5, SSK, K2tog) twice, K2, K2tog, K1, (SSK, K2tog, K5) twice, SSK, K1 (2:2:4:4), then pick up and knit 3 sts up left side of back neck. 106 (110:110:118:118) sts.

Inc 1 st at each end of 5th (5th:3rd:3rd:3rd) and every foll 6th (6th:4th:4th:4th) row to 93 (103:75:85:99) sts, then on every foll 8th (8th:6th:6th:6th) row until there are 101 (107:113:119:125) sts, taking inc sts into patt.

SHAPE TOP

Using 3.25mm needles, cast on 65 (69:71:75:77) sts. Beg and ending rows as indicated for your size, work in patt from Sleeve Chart as folls: Work chart rows 1 to 12, ending after a WS row.

5 S

Cont straight until Sleeve meas 44 (45:46: 46:46) cm from cast-on edge, ending after a WS row.

SLEEVES

Join left shoulder and neckband seam. Join side seams. Join sleeve seams. Insert sleeves into armholes. Block garment gently to measurements, following any yarn care instructions on the ballband.

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www.qingfibre.com contact@qingfibre.com Qing Fibre specialises in unusual colour combinations and sophisticated speckles. Check out the website for Spring tones, fresh skeins and summer club subscriptions!

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www.finefettlefibres.uk judith@finefettlefibres.uk 01670 600 001 Specialising in British and fair trade yarns in natural fibres, Fine Fettle Fibres also offers workshops, knitting groups and special events for knitters. Studio 6, Gallery 45, 45 Main Street, Felton, Northumberland, NE65 9PP

www.inthewoolshed.com Natural dyed yarns for knitting, crochet, weaving and creative textiles. We use only natural fibres, including our own flock of Lleyn Sheep, and other selected British wool such as Bluefaced Leicester & Wensleydale. Our yarns are kind to the environment, supporting the ethos of slow, mindful and sustainable.

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Issue 154 Colourwork yoked sweater v Mohair cardigan v Raglan tunic dress v Fair Isle tank top v Shawl v Cable hat v Lace yoked jumper v Shawl-collar jumper v Slip stitch T-shirt v Striped waistcoat v Lacy top

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I N F O R M AT I O N

Abbreviations alt approx beg ch cn cont dc dec DK DPN dtr est foll inc K KFB K2tog kwise meas M1 M1pw

M1L

M1R

alternate approximately beginning chain cable needle continue double crochet (US single crochet) decrease (work two stitches together) double knitting double-pointed needle double treble (US treble crochet) established following increase knit knit into front and back of stitch knit the next two stitches together knitwise measures make one (see M1L) make 1 st purlwise: with LH needle lift the strand between next and last st from front to back and purl through the back loop left leaning increase: with left needle tip, lift strand between needles from front to back. Knit lifted loop through back of loop right leaning increase: with left needle tip, lift strand between needles from back to front. Knit lifted loop through front of loop

Contacts MB mrk P patt PB PFB pm prev psso

P2tog P3tog pwise rem rep(s) rev st st RH RS skpo sk2po s2kpo Sl sl st ss slm SSK

SSP

st(s) st st tbl tog tr w&t WS wyib wyif yb yf yfwd yo yrn

make a bobble marker purl pattern(s) place bead purl into front and back of stitch place marker previous pass slipped stitch over purl 2 stitches together purl 3 stitches together purlwise remain(ing) repeat(s) reverse stocking stitch right hand right side slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over slip 1, knit 2 tog, pass slipped stitch over slip 2 tog kwise, knit 1, pass slipped sts over slip slip stitch slip stitch (crochet) slip marker slip 2 stitches one at a time, return to LH needle, knit 2 slipped stitches together tbl slip 2 stitches one at a time, return to LH needle, purl 2 slipped stitches together tbl stitch(es) stocking stitch through back of loop together treble crochet (US double crochet) wrap and turn wrong side with yarn in back with yarn in front take yarn back (no inc) bring yarn to front (no inc) yarn forward yarn over yarn round needle

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Pattern updates ISSUE 153 Aurora The instructions say ‘Back and Front (make 2 alike)’; however, the moss stitch band at the bottom of the Front piece should be worked for 4cm, not 8cm. Lengths given in the sizing grid are for the length at the back of the garment.

Also, when Finishing, sew the sides but not the moss stitch bands at the bottom, thus creating side vents.

ISSUE 153 Perseid After working Chart C and before working 2 rows in yarn D, Chart B should only be repeated once, not 3 times as stated in the pattern.

There is a pattern correction for the ‘Aurora’ jumper

Our archive of updates can be found at: www.gathered.how/theknitter

The Knitter 81 Issue 155

Interview YA R N M A K E R S

Cartref Yarn

Jennie and Zoë produce pure Welsh wool yarns in stunning hand-dyed colours PASSIONATE ABOUT promoting Welsh wool, friends Jennie Powell and Zoë Carter set up Cartref Yarn in 2019. Along with their hand-dyed Welsh yarns, the duo also sell their own knitting pattern designs and run knitting retreats. What’s the story behind Cartref Yarn? Jennie: “We have been friends for a decade due to our shared love of knitting. We started our Knit-Tea Retreat business in 2018, and found that we worked well together. I went on holiday and wasn’t able to chat daily to Zoë. When I finally found a wi-fi signal, I had 17 messages waiting from her, in which she laid out a fully fledged business plan for our own yarn company - and thus Cartref was born!” Zoë: “I’d been interested in British wool for a while, and whilst I could find lots of Scottish and English provenance yarn, there was very little Welsh yarn out there. I wondered why, as Wales is so famous for its sheep. In an effort not to bother Jennie on her family holiday, I got a bit carried away planning a new business for us. I held out for about 48 hours and then messaged her a massive brain dump, in the desperate hope she would be keen to do it together! We video-called from her hotel room in Spain, and had the bare bones of our company established in a couple of hours!” Where do you source your yarns from? “We don’t source yarn, we source fleece! It was important to us that the yarn was 100% Welsh from sheep to finished product. Most independent dyers buy their yarn direct from large wholesalers and they can come from all over the world. Our fleece is sourced, processed and dyed all within Mid, South and West Wales.” What dyeing processes do you use? “Our yarn is kettle-dyed by us in small batches in our kitchens. Our recipes are a closely guarded secret, but we are very careful to weigh the professional acid dyes to ensure that the different batches are as similar as is possible in hand dyeing.”

How do you choose your colour palettes? “When we started out, we chose to include some black Bluefaced Leicester fleeces in our exclusive blend to add a heritage feel to the yarn. Once dyed, this adds a depth of colour and warmth. We wanted a full spectrum of colours in our range, and now that our supply chain is more firmly established we have been able to add shades to the collection. More colourways are planned for the coming months!” What are the highlights and challenges of running an indie yarn business? Zoë: “The challenges are definitely time and space! I am also an independent gym owner and personal trainer with my husband, so adding in another business was always going to be a push time-wise. And although we’re lucky to live in a large house by the sea, my family of five takes up most of the house already, so dyeing and storing yarn means space is at a premium. The best bit is the weekends away with Jennie working the yarn shows!” Jennie: “A highlight for me has to be the opportunity to work with my best friend. I already had a yarn business (Owl About Yarn) before we started Cartref, and I knew that Zoë wanted to work in this industry, so it was lovely to be able to help facilitate that. The main challenge I think is that in a small business such as ours, you have to take on all the job roles. Zoe tends to run the marketing and social media and I make the shop and website work. It would be nice sometimes to be able to focus on dyeing, and have minions for computer work and mailing!” What is your proudest achievement? “Wonderwool 2019, when we launched Cartref Yarn to the public for the very first time. The reception was fantastic, and very reassuring after nearly twelve months of work and a large outlay of money! Cartref means ‘Home’ in Welsh, and Wonderwool is our favourite show; it takes place in the heart of Wales, not far from our homes, so it felt natural and right to choose that show to launch our yarn.” www.cartrefyarn.com

The Knitter

Issue 155

The kettle-dyed shades are warm and rich

‘Celtaidd’ is a design by Jennie

1 Zoë and Jennie are keen to share their love of Welsh wool 2 Jennie’s ‘Welsh Perspective Shawl’ uses Cartref’s 4ply yarn 3 ‘Bloduwedd Mittens’ is a pretty colourwork design 4 Cartref Welsh 4ply is also available as 20g mini skeins

Discover the NEW Totally Textural Collection by Debbie Bliss

“I love working with the texture, the landscape and the architecture of the knitted stitch. This collection is a modern mix of classic stitches and contemporary shapes.” Debbie Bliss

Patterns from left to right: Oben - DB283 Crieff - DB285 Berwick - DB286 Kelso - DB284 Falkirk - DB287

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Issue 155

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