Idaho Water Garden And Koi Society Newsletter

Idaho Water Garden and Koi Society

NEWSLETTER July, 2017

Summertime means watermelon for people and fish alike!

Page 2- The Green Days of Summer- Managing Algae in a Koi Pond Page 11- June Review Page 13- Koi of the Month: Sanke vs. Showa Page 17- PNKCA Convention Page 20- Koi Show Page 27- Pond Tour

The Green Days of Summer Courtesy of koi-care.com

It is the case that every summer, as temperatures rise and daylight hours increase, an algal bloom occurs in almost everyone’s koi pond. Dreaded algal blooms, like green water that make koi disappear from view or unsightly string algae that seems to pop up from nowhere, seem to be an inescapable fact of pond life. Being able to effectively control pond algae is crucial.

The increase in temperatures, sunlight and available nutrients from dead and decaying plant material and fish waste act to fuel algal growth and a bloom occurs. Algae are pretty simple as living things go. They need sunlight, carbon dioxide (given off from the gills of respiring koi and atmospheric CO2) and nutrients (nitrates, phosphates, ammonia etc.).

There ​is​ more to the story though when it comes to what algae need and how well they will do. Algae do well when pH is on the higher side and this is because certain nutrients are more readily assimilated by the algae under these conditions.

Algae also thrive under conditions of stagnant water or decreased water flow (you’ve probably noticed that stagnant ponds tend to harbor a lot of algae). Different algae behave differently though- read on for the characteristics of the most problematic types.

1) Phytoplanktonic (free floating) which includes types that cause “green water” or “pea soup” water conditions. This type of algae may be the most common to afflict pond owners. Spring is often when ponds turn into what appears to be a large vat of pea soup-certainly not how koi keepers want their ponds to look.

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Besides being a spring bloom occurrence, this single celled algae is often associated with newly established ponds as well due to the fact that the filter hasn’t had time to establish a sufficiently large bacterial population yet.

Green Water Algae

2) Benthic (attached) which includes “string algae” or “horsehair algae”, “water net” and “blanket weed”. String algae can be a tough one. This algae can remain dormant for years in a dried state until introduced to water after which it will thrive.

Another problem is that when you manually remove it from your pond (which is the best way) the action of removing it causes it to release reproductive spores into the water and the cycle starts again.

As string algae tends to produce a good deal of dissolved oxygen it tends to aggregate bubbles tangled in its “hair” and before long a big, unsightly mat of the stuff floats to the surface further reducing the beauty of your pond.

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Of course, something that produces dissolved oxygen in your pond is a good thing, right? Yes, up until the point that it dies, sinks to the bottom and is broken down by bacteria that use oxygen to do so thereby depleting your pond of dissolved oxygen.

String Algae Mat

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Prevention

Shade Sunlight is a big component that is necessary for algae to thrive so by shading your pond in some way you can effectively reduce some of the potential algae fuel entering your pond. One way you can do this is the old fashioned way- trees. Try planting trees that provide canopy overhead near your pond.

Besides aerial shade there is also the aquatic kind. Pond owners have, for a long time, installed aquatic plants like lilies in their pond to not only create shade but they make your pond more aesthetically appealing.

Another way to reduce light penetration is through non-toxic coloring agents (dyes) that essentially tint your water a certain color and reduce the available light in your pond.

Reduce Nutrient Loads Nutrients like nitrates and phosphates are key to algal growth so by reducing and nullifying these components you can severely limit algae’s ability to grow. This is achieved by not overfeeding your koi, by keeping close tabs on water chemistry and making adjustments as needed.

Make sure your pond isn’t subject to fertilizer runoff as that will often carry a lot of phosphates. Be sure you have plenty of filtration and beneficial bacteria to assimilate nutrients etc. You may also need to perform several water changes in an effort to reduce nutrient loads.

If this is the case be sure that the water changes you do are gradual to ensure that your pond doesn’t undergo a significant pH swing as this may cause harm to your koi.

Adding Salt Salt seems to be a go-to remedy for a lot of things in the world of koi keeping and it turns out that it can help control algae blooms as well. There is a caveat with using salt to combat algae in your pond though and that relates to the fact that high enough salinities will also harm or kill your aquatic plants.

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For example, common plants like water hyacinth and lotus will begin to die back at 0.10% whereas water lily won’t die off until 0.5% and to deal with algae effectively you will want to shoot for 0.25 to 0.30%. You will have to determine if salt makes sense for your algae problems based on your resident species of aquatic plants.

UV Sterilizers One of the most effective ways of combating single celled algae like that which causes “green water” is an in-line UV sterilizer as part of your filtration system. Its an excellent and non-invasive way of dealing with certain types of algae (and harmful bacteria for that matter) that can easily be added to your existing piping. So how does UV light kill algae? UV is a powerful kind of light energy and it effectively penetrates the cell membrane on the outside of the algae cell and hits the areas of the algae where the DNA is (nucleus and chloroplast). Once this happens, the DNA gets so disrupted by the UV that the algae cell cannot reproduce.

UV Clarifiers are also an option if you are just targeting free floating algae but its less powerful (algae requires less powerful UV to be killed) so if you are going have a UV system you might as well have one that is going to kill other microbes and bacteria, too. For most ponds a 30 watt system should suffice but be sure that the light you are getting is rated for the number of gallons you have.

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Beneficial Bacteria Besides UV sterilizers one of best things you can do for your pond is adding additional ​beneficial bacteria​. This is especially true during spring time when your filter media is not ramped up like it would be in summer.

One of the more popular products on the market for getting your bacteria populations up is called Microbe-Lift PL and they even have seasonal “blends” depending on your needs (and season). Crystal Clear is another company that produces a similar bacteria booster aimed to combat algae naturally.

It’s generally a good idea to give your bacteria a boost from time to time but when it comes to algae you may find yourself in a cycle where the algae dies (either naturally or via algaecides), it decomposes on the bottom and causes high levels of nutrients like ammonia and nitrates and those nutrients then fuel the next generation of algae.

Adding the beneficial bacteria will allow the nutrients to be assimilated before they become available for more algae thereby starving out future algal growth.

Koi Clay Koi clay is one of those additions to your koi pond that can only help. This material is a natural way to add a lot of great minerals to your system and koi seem to love it. As a side effect it has been reported to really be effective at inhibiting and killing string algae.

It is a calcium bentonite clay and when added to your pond it will temporarily cloud it up. It clears up in a day and will have added lots of beneficial minerals and removed toxins. It is said that Kentucky produces so many great race horses because they eat the grass growing in Kentucky’s particularly calcium-rich soil.

Similarly, Japan’s koi might be so revered because of the clay rich ponds in which they are raised.

There’s lot of great koi clays on the market but you want ones that don’t remain cloudy for extended periods.

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Barley Straw One algae treatment you may have heard about but is perhaps a bit unexpected is barley straw. You can get it as raw barley straw or its extract. This treatment for green water can take up to 30 days to really get going and the results can be hit or miss.

Some speculate that the barley straw works by breaking down and releasing a toxin that prevents algae while others suggest that the break down process produces hydrogen peroxide which creates a poor environment for algal growth.

According to Rutgers University no one actually knows how barley straw prevents algal growth but it’s important to note that it ​prevents​ algae, it doesn’t kill existing algae so it shouldn’t be used as an algaecide. This treatment is more effective on free floating algae as opposed to string algae and is typically used in the spring time.

Chemicals for Treating Algae

Simazine

Most algaecides can be placed into one of three categories: potassium permanganate-based, copper-based and simazine-based. Simazine is a commonly used algaecide. The way this chemical works is by disrupting the photosynthetic process and thereby killing the algae. Caution should be used with this chemical as it can harm or stunt the growth of your aquatic plants (as they use photosynthesis, too).

Potassium Permanganate Use potassium permanganate with caution. Not only is it used for ​parasites​ like costia but will also readily kill algae however you need to monitor the pond after you add it. The dose should be around 1 teaspoon per 1000 gallons to start but you may end up adding more or doing more treatments based on your needs and how much algae you have.

You will need to double up on your pond aeration as you will see a lot of your fish come to the surface and gasp to get air. Keep up the treatment for about 8 hours and make sure the treated pond water doesn’t go through your filter media as your beneficial bacteria will be killed off.

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Potassium permanganate will get used up as it kills the algae and parasites etc. so you won’t have to do a big water change as you would if you added a lot of salt. It would be very helpful though to vacuum the bottom of your pond after the treatment is over and your fish aren’t showing signs of stress.

Algae Fix Algae fix can be placed in the “copper based” category. Most copper based algaecides are in the form of chelated copper (which lasts longer than other forms). It can be effective as an algaecide because it disrupts algae cell metabolism however as with most treatments there are some precautions to be aware of.

Vascular plants like water clover won’t be affected by the copper but other plants that derive nutrients from the water itself may be negatively affected. The other thing to consider is copper’s effect on invertebrate organisms like snails and crayfish. Because most invertebrates have copper-based hemolymph (blood) copper-based treatments will harm or kill these organisms.

Green Clean One of the newer products on the market, “Green Clean“, kills algae via oxidation and results are very rapid. There is no residue and it is not copper based. Though it is advertised as a “broad spectrum” algaecide users have reported that it is best for string algae and not ideal for green water (free floating) algae.

Accu Clear This solution is in the family of treatments that cause green water algae to flocculate (suspended materials form small clusters and sink to the bottom). The idea is that your filter will take care of the rest but as mentioned previously if you don’t vacuum the bottom afterwards it’s a good idea to pump up your beneficial bacteria populations to handle the excess nutrient fallout from the decay of the algae.

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Conclusion Every pond owner will, at some point, have to deal with algae. Typically people will struggle with it during the summer time when temperatures rise but fortunately there are plenty of go-to solutions.

There are some that are broad spectrum and some that are will target one kind of algae or another.

The solution that is right for you is the one that meets your particular needs. There are plenty of algaecide chemicals available on the market today and a lot of pond owners will attest to their effectiveness.

However, if you find yourself overrun by algae and don’t know where to start try some of the solutions found under “Prevention” in this article first before adding chemicals. You may have to go the chemical route though and if you do be sure to couple those treatments with some of the preventative measures talked about or you may find yourself in the same situation before too long.

Main Points

1. Shade is a great way to reduce one of the components algae needs to grow: sunlight.

2. Reducing excess nutrients is another effective way to minimize algae food.

3. Salt can be effective at keeping algae at bay. Algae likes fresh water so a little salt goes a long way.

4. Green water algae can’t stand up to UV sterilizers. The powerful light energy destroys the cells.

5. Beneficial bacteria are your natural defense against a build-up of nutrients that can potentially fuel algal growth.

6. String algae can be effectively treated with a time-honored application of koi clay. Koi actually love the stuff too!

7. Barley straw has been shown to be an effective prevention treatment for future algae episodes.

8. There’s lot of other ways to attack algae too. Algae Fix goes after algae cell metabolism, Green Clean is a very effective oxidizer and AccuClear is a flocculator (grabs suspended materials like green water algae).

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June Review The search for the Koi of the Year that will represent Idaho Water Garden and Koi Society at the annual PNKCA convention continued at member Sue Boydstun’s house on June 17th.

Club members came to present their contestants for consideration as well as to help plant lily starts that were gathered last month from the Boise Train Depot’s Platt garden ponds.

Members left with lilys and hopes of greatness for their beautiful fish.

The club came together to help member and past president, Sue Boydstun, to catalog her large number of fish in her 12,000 gallon pond. All fish were measured, photographed and delegated to different tanks for any needed treatments or to be sold or donated to others. The highlight was the enormous high fin banded sharks!

Molly Blankenship and Katy Shanafelt catch koi and hand them up to others waiting to quarantine and catalog.

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Club members Katy Shanafelt and Diane and Tony Dann volunteered to help man an IWGKS booth at the annual Obon festival in Ontario, OR at the Idhao-Oregon Buddhist Temple.

Katy transported two nice large koi donated by Dick Frencher to Oregon for the event.

Sue Boydstun and Fox Shanafelt and the Obon festival in Ontario, OR.

Several people dressed up in traditional clothing for the occasion.

A nice Sanke and a Hiranaga Hi Bekko were on display.

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Koi Variety of the Month​: ​Sanke vs. Showa Many hobbyists love Sanke and Showa koi — the tri-colored koi that are white, red and black — yet they often struggle to distinguish one variety from the other. I am often asked, “Are they white fish with red and black markings, or black fish with red and white markings? How do I tell the difference?” Also overheard: “What is the rule for black on the koi’s head? Do all Sanke have white fins?”

There are many similarities between Sanke and Showa. Aside from the fact that both share three colors, both are also non-metallic members of the Gosanke group, produced with Doitsu and Ginrin scale variations. To muddy the waters even more, they can look very much alike at a young age and can take several years to fully finish. So it’s no wonder that most people have a difficult time telling them apart, especially at first glance.

You may even have some of these three-colored koi in your ponds and yearn to easily determine which are Sanke, and which are Showa. With so much in common, making the distinction between the two varieties can be quite a challenge. This article will provide five helpful tips in telling Sanke from Showa and make it easier to correctly identify each variety, thus boosting your confidence when it comes to koi knowledge and giving your customers the sound advice they are looking for.

1. The Color Rule

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Know the difference? This is a Sanke.

The number of different colors is the first clue to naming the variety correctly. Both Sanke and Showa have three colors — white, red and black. Each color should be vivid and clearly defined on the fish, with an obvious distinction between the colors. Color depth is important, too: it should be a uniform hue, regardless of where it appears on the koi. Each color should appear solid, dense and free of any other color.

Sanke: White and red with black accents • White, or shiroji (sheer-row-gee), is the base color on Sanke. It begins at the nose and continues to the tail, including the fins. It should be clean, bright and not discolored in any way.

• The red on Sanke is called hi (he) or beni (ben-ny) in Japanese. Beni tends to be more of an orange shade rather than a true, fire engine red. Sanke usually have large, reddish-orange patches that form the foundation of their color pattern, with the white base generally visible between the patches of beni.

• Black, or sumi (sue-me), is the rarest color on Sanke. Generally, Sanke will have black spots, or sumi markings, that are relatively small when compared to the prominent beni patches. Sumi can be thought of as an accent color, while beni and shiroji are the primary colors on Sanke.

Showa: Black with red and white accents • Showa koi have a thick, sumi-dominant base color with a shiny appearance. The black extends along the length of the body and sparsely extends into the fins. The solid black color is of major importance when identifying Showa.

• Beni often appears on Showa in large patches. A strong and dense concentration of red is preferred, ideally on the face, back and tail section.

• White pigmented areas intertwine with the sumi, breaking up the black background to form interesting patterns.

2. Where’s the Pattern?

Pattern location is also a clue in determining the correct variety. Sanke and Showa have distinctly different kinds of patterns. Determine if the pattern lies primarily on the back of the fish, or if it wraps around the body. Does it appear mostly above the lateral line, or does the pattern reach down the sides to the belly of the koi?

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Sanke patterns usually lie on the back of the koi and are confined above the lateral line. However, beni patches may occasionally extend downward, slightly below the lateral line.

Showa, on the other hand, have prominent, heavy patterns that wrap around the fish’s body, often extending far beyond the lateral line down to the belly, encompassing the body. When you see a koi with a significant, heavy pattern that encircles the fish, you can bet it’s a Showa.

Here’s an easy way to remember this tip: Showa ends with “-wa,” and its patterns wrap around. As a general rule, if there is a “w” in the variety name, keep an eye out for wrapping colors.

3. Sumi Accents: Small Spots or Wide Bands?

The size and shape of the black pigment are additional clues to use in accurately identifying each koi variety. When trying to decide if you are looking at Sanke or Showa, evaluate the sumi markings.

Small, infrequent or isolated sumi spots are indicative of Sanke. The lone, round black spots will appear randomly on the koi’s back above the lateral line to accent the beni pattern. Individual blotches of sumi are one clue to identifying Sanke.

Large swathes or wide bands of black color appear on Showa. The substantial black markings are quite noteworthy — even powerful-looking, contrary to the modest sumi spots of Sanke. The sumi on Showa should be evident the entire length of the fish. Sumi bands are often joined together to form interesting shapes, sometimes resembling bolts of lightning. If sumi appears as heavy or connecting bands of color, you can be relatively sure you are looking at a Showa.

4. Look It in the Face.

Of course, it’s a Showa koi.

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The face, or head of the koi will also offer clues to the correct variety. The most obvious difference between the Sanke and Showa is the presence of sumi on the head.

Generally, Sanke will have only two colors on its head — white and red, with no sumi present. The face should be white, as this is the point where the important beni pattern begins.

In contrast, you should see all three colors, including black, on the heads of Showa. Bold Showa patterns begin on the face. In fact, sumi often starts at the mouth and spreads to the cheeks, possibly even joining with sumi on the pectoral fins.

5. Examine the pectoral fins.

Generally, the pectoral fins on Sanke will have the same clean, bright, shiroji color as its base. White is the dominant color of the pectoral fins; however, a few sumi stripes may show up here and there to accentuate the pattern. Sumi appearing on only one pectoral fin is not uncommon and perfectly acceptable on Sanke.

Alternatively, sumi is often seen on the pectoral fins of Showa. This feature is called Motogoro (mow-toe go-row). Some Showa have Motogoro that is a solid block of pigment at the fin joint. Some have sumi that flares outward in streaks instead of a single patch that remains close to the body. This trait blends nicely with a bold Showa pattern. However, Motogoro is not always present on all Showa.

One special note, Kindai Showa (kin-die showa) is a more modern version of Showa. It has predominantly more white areas than a traditional Showa. However, it will still have interlocking bands of sumi and beni, just like most Showa.

As a general rule, these are the five things to look for when identifying Sanke or Showa. However, not every koi will exhibit these characteristics. Age, water quality and lineage play significant roles in the development of each of the mentioned traits.

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PNKCA Convention!

Please join the Washington Koi and Water Garden Society as they host the 2017 annual Pacific Northwest Koi Clubs Association Convention. The event will take place in Mount Vernon, Washington on August 4-6. Guest speaker, Dr. Richard Strange, will be in attendance to help educate and inspire! Plans are being solidified now, so please check back at their website: http://www.washingtonkoi.org/​ or visit the PNKCA site at ​http://www.pnkca.com/​ for updated information!

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2017 PNKCA CONVENTION AND POND TOUR “KOI - Completing the Pond Puzzle” Hosted by Washington Koi & Water Garden Society PNKCA 33rd Annual Convention and Pond Tour August 4-6 2017 Best Western Plus Skagit Valley Inn and Convention Center 2300 Market Street, Mount Vernon, WA 98273 Name 1 (as it will appear on name tag): _______________________________________________ Name 2 (as it will appear on name tag): _______________________________________________ Address: ________________________________________________________________________ City: _____________________________________ State: _____________ Zip: ______ Email: ______________________________________________ Phone: ______________ Club Affiliation: ___________________________________________________________________ Full Convention Packages include: Reception, Seminars, Banquet, Vendor Fair, Auction, Raffle, and Pin Package A Full Convention & Pond Tour x 147.00 = $ Package B Full Convention x 122.00 = $ Option 1 Seminars & Vendor Fair Only x 80.00 = $ Option 2 Banquet Only (includes auction & raffle) x 42.00 = $ Option 3 Pond Tour Only (includes lunch) x 35.00 = $

sub-total =​discount if postmarked by July 5, 2017 for Pkg A or B x -$20.00 = $( ) meals vegetarian? #_____ gluten free? #_____ total = $ Payment: Mail to: Late Registration: Hotel Information: Checks payable to PNKCA 2017 Convention (include completed registration form). No refunds after July 15th, 2017. Confirmation will be sent via email upon receipt of paid registration. Or register online at

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washingtonkoi.org/pnkca.

PNKCA 2017 Convention Attn: Lucy Macneil PO Box 148, Bothell, WA 98041 Contact Jennifer Treiberg for availability after July 15th, 2017 at pnkcachair@washingtonkoi.org or 425-233-7527.

Best Western Plus Skagit Valley Inn and Convention Center 2300 Market Street, Mount Vernon, WA 98273 360-428-5678 Block of rooms reserved; ask for Pacific Northwest Koi Clubs Association rate Group rate of $129.95 + tax is good until July 4th, 2017 https://www.bestwestern.com/

2016 PNKCA show entrance in Boise, ID

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24th ​ ​ Annual Koi Show It’s almost Show time, members! We are having our 24​th​ Annual Koi Show this year in a little over two months’ time! We have again partnered up with the famous Idaho Botanical Garden as the venue and the Bonsai Club to make this year’s Show yet another fun and exciting event. It will run from 10:00 am to 4:00 pm Saturday, August 26​th​ 2017 and as always, everyone is invited. As usual, the IBG is foregoing their normal admission charge and inviting the public to visit the majestic Garden during these hours on the day of the event for free! Your Club has been instrumental in helping IBG procure a substantial grant to build a-state-of-the-art Koi pond to house a very special collection of Koi that belong to the donors, the Richens’ Family.

As part of this arrangement and the assistance we provided to IBG in the form of a pond design, project supervision and labor, and koi health advice, IBG has agreed to host us and our Koi Show for the next 4 years on the last weekend of August! Mark your calendars.

The Show features a special Trade Show with both wet and dry vendors that cater to our hobby selling various merchandise and Koi fish. The Japanese drummers, Kawa Taiko is back and will be performing straight-up at noon in front of the Cottage House in the Garden and the Bonsai Club will have many magnificent Bonsai on display as well as will be teaching a free class on Bonsai! And if you are hungry or thirsty, visit any of our food vendors at the Show site.

Come and help us put on a great Show! Please call to volunteer, if you have not done so already.

The Show is our premier event for the year and it is necessary to have everyone’s help and participation to make it successful. Here is what everyone needs to do:

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Call to volunteer your time and energy for Show set-up and takedown, assist in our Club Booth Sales, work the Fish Raffle, and generally help with the Show – we have a job for you!

Call to reserve your Koi tank – no advanced photos needed except it would help expedite benching if you filled the Fish Entry Summary below and email it to our Show Chairman at sotchimonas@msn.com or bring it with you to the Show on Friday for benching. Our 2 experts from Colorado that do it all at the Show site on Friday – photograph, bench, and print everything necessary for Judging, will be here again!!

Call to reserve your seat and food selection at the Banquet (information below). GREAT NEWS! We are again guests of the Crane Creek Country Club.

Condition your Koi for the Show – color food now till the end of July and finish with a whitening food such as Hi-Silk. And no feeding during the week prior to the Show Come and enjoy!

Schedule of Events:

Friday August 25, 2017

PUBLIC FISH VIEWING

11:00 – 4:00 PM

VENDOR SHOW & SALES

10:00 – 4:00 PM

KAWA TAIKO NOON

SHOW SET UP –12:00 PM

8:00 AM

SHOW TANK CONDITIONING 12:00 – 2:00 PM FISH ENTRY 6:00 PM

FISH RAFFLE -

2:00 –

VENDOR SET-UP

8:00 – 9:00 AM

SHOW FISH – last minute benching

8:00 – 9:00 AM

OPENING CEREMONY AM FISH JUDGING (starts at)

- CRANE CREEK COUNTRY CLUB 6:30 PM No-host Bar Banquet, Judge Presentation, Awards 7:00 – 10:00 PM

10:00

Auction, Raffle, Super Raffle

Sunday August 27, 2017

10:10 AM

IDAHO BOTANICAL GARDEN FREE 10:00 – 4:00 PM

10:00 – 4:00 PM

11:00 – 4:00 PM

AWARDS BANQUET

Saturday August 26, 2017

BONSAI EXHIBIT

EVERY 30 MIN

12:00 –

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FISH CHECK OUT

8:00 – 9:00 AM

SHOW TAKE-DOWN

8:00 – 11:00 AM

SHOW PICNIC & SPECIAL CLASS

12:00 – 2:00 PM

Banquet Reservations The Crane Creek Clubhouse’s menu is absolutely fabulous. Details will be available in a few days.

Please Call our Banquet hotline (208) 921-0283 and leave a message with number of guests and dinner selections.

Fish Registration and Tank Fees No need to do anything this year except condition, catch and transport your fish to the Show. Call and ask for help with anything especially catching your Koi. With the addition of fresh, filtered water flowing through the show tanks continuously, our water quality is the best of any Show in the nation - great for fish health and much less stressful! Tank fees: Koi tanks - $35/ea.

Call our Show Chairman Sot Chimonas to make your tank reservation (208) 286-0288.

Show Rules ●

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This Koi Show is open to all hobbyists, whether members of IWGKS or not, local or out of town and all are eligible to win the top awards such as Supreme Show Champion. Some special Award trophies are reserved only for active members of IWGKS. An active member is one that is a dues-paid-member for the Show’s fiscal year and has participated in at least 2 monthly IWGKS Club meetings prior to the Show. These are, IWGKS Grand Champion, IWGKS Reserve Champion, PNKCA-IWGKS Tategoi Award, AKCA-IWGKS Fish of the Year Award, other Club Friendship Awards, Judges Trophies and any other special awards that the IWGKS Show Committee deems to include in this category. Previous years’ Grand Champions are welcome but may only compete for the Champion of Champions Award.

Each exhibitor will have their own designated tank with “English” style judging. Additional tanks may be available (see 8. (c) below).

All fish shown must be the personal and private property of the registered exhibitor.

The Koi show is not open to Koi Business Professionals. For the purpose of this show, a Koi Business Professional is “one who customarily and regularly derives income from a Koi hobby related business.” Examples would be as follows: a. Koi retailer or wholesaler (dealer, immediate relative of a Koi dealer. b. Dry goods retailer or wholesaler - sells Koi food, pond filtration supplies, is a pond installer, pond maintenance, etc. In general, provides direct hobby related items or service affecting the life of a Koi. c. Any questions as to whether an entrant might fall in this category will be addressed by the Show Chair. d. An entrant must not have been a Koi Business Professional for a period of one year prior to the show.

Koi owners must be present at the show at time of entry unless other arrangements were made in advance with the Show Chair.

Each entrant must provide a net and blue tub, which is to be used at the person’s tank only. (IWGKS will provide a limited number of sterilized tubs and nets.) With fair competition in mind, please cover all labels on personnel equipment that indicates the Koi owner.

KHV SURVIVORS ARE NOT ALLOWED AT THE SHOW. Entry Forms and Fees: ○ Tank registration fee of $35.00/ea. ○ Fish entry is 2:00 pm to 6:00pm Friday prior to the show.

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Only one tank per individual exhibitor until one week before the show when the Show Chair may release the remaining tanks on a first come first served basis. ○ Late entries will be accepted if tanks are available before 8:30 am the day of the show. ○ Late Tank fee is $40.00 per tank (an additional $5/tank besides the normal tank fee of $35/tank). ○ Entry forms must be signed, accompanied with the entry fee. Make checks payable to the IWGKS. ○ Changes to the entry forms after submission will be approved by the Show Committee only.

Delivery and Removal of fish: ○ All fish must arrive at the show site and be placed in their assigned tank Friday evening from 2:00 - 6:00 pm once registered by the entry committee. Late entries and before 8:30 am of the show date, may be accepted by the Show Chair. ○ After checking in with the entry committee, all entrants must remain in the entry area until their fish have been measured, classified and released into their assigned tanks. ○ The entry committee has the final authority regarding classification and size. ○ Fish deemed by the entry committee to be showing possible signs of disease or parasites will be disqualified and removed immediately. ○ No fish may be bagged or removed from the show site until all fish are identified by the entrants, and the Show Chair or representative gives the OK to bag and leave. ○ In extreme cases the Show Chair may permit early removal of fish if possible. ○ Generally the show will end at 4pm and fish can be removed with approval from the Show Chair at 4-5 pm or 8-9 am on Sunday unless other arrangements are made in advance. ○ At the close of the show, oxygen will be provided by IWGKS. Entrants are responsible for bags and carrying containers. IWGKS will provide bags for a small fee. ○ All fish must be picked up by 9:00 am Sunday following the show. ○ Unclaimed fish will become property of IWGKS. Judging: ○ Judging will begin promptly at 10:00 am Saturday. ○ Injuries that will leave permanent scars or deformities may count against a fish, while those considered temporary may be overlooked in judging. ○ The decision of the judges and/or entry committee is final. Any contingencies not covered clearly by these rules will be subject to the decision of the Show Chair. ○ Participants and spectators will be allowed to observe and listen to the judges’ comments from outside the judging area. Only the Judges, Show Chair, Show Fish Handling Chairman and fish catchers will be allowed in the judging area. No communication whatsoever with the Judges is permitted during judging. ○ Any individual in violation of the above requirements will be asked to leave the premises. ○ If the violator is a participant, this will result in his/her disqualification from the competition. ○ Move-up will be determined by the Show Committee. The Fish Handling Chair and Judges may make suggestions; however, the final decision rests with the Show Chair. ○ Awards will be posted at the Show site and announced at the Show Banquet on Saturday night.

General Information: ○ All necessary and reasonable precautions will be taken by the club to safeguard the Koi entries. Entries are accepted with the understanding that the participant agrees to hold IWGKS and all workers at the Show harmless in the event of fish death, disease, injury, disfigurement or loss. ○ No one is to handle any fish except the designated fish handlers. ○

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Water Quality: Every reasonable effort will be made to maintain the water quality of the tanks at a high level.

Initially, water will be treated with a chlorine-chloramine-neutralizing chemical, along with ammonia binding chemicals. A water quality team will be established to insure that the best

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possible water quality is maintained at all times. No Koi exhibitor is allowed to introduce to his or her tank any substance without the permission of the water quality team.

Questions and to volunteer your help please call the Show Chairman Sot Chimonas at (208) 286-0288

The IWGKS’ officers and members are not responsible for any losses or injuries to fish entered in the show. All reasonable precautions will be taken to ensure the health and safety of fish entered in the Show. Thank you for your cooperation.

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Koi Entry Form ​(​Print page 26 and 27 and mail in) 24th Annual IWGKS Koi Show Owner’s name: _____________________________________________________

Address: ___________________________________________________________

City/State: ______________________Zip code: ___________________________

Home phone: ____________________ Emergency phone: __________________

E-mail address: _____________________________________________________

Category

Under 9”

10 to 14”

15 to 19”

20 to 34”

Over 25”

Kohaku

Sanke

Showa

Bekko

Utsuri

Tancho

Goromo/ Goshiki

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Asagi/Shusui

Doitsu

Hikari Moyo (Pattern)

Gin Rin

Hikari Muji (Ogon)

Kawarimono I (metallic)

Kawarimono II (non-metallic)

Hirenaga (long fin)

Number of tanks needed: __________ To calculate number of tanks, use this scoring method: For each 9” and under add 2 For each 10-14” add 5 For each 15 to 19” add 10 For each 20-24” add 15 For each 25 and over add 25 Each tank can accommodate 100 or less points

Total # of fish entered: ___________ Owner’s Signature: ________________________________ Date: ____________

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IWGKS Annual Pond Tour!

Join us July 16th for our annual Pond Tour! We will be featuring 6 ponds in the Boise area that can visited during the Tour’s hours of 9am til 2 pm. When your ticket is purchased, you can unlock a map to all the ponds waiting for you!

Club members open up their yards to fellow koi and garden enthusiasts to create an educational and fun event.

Tickets can be purchased at IWGKS.org for only $10.00 (plus 1.54 fee)

Come see what the Pond is all about!

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Club News Board Meetings are the 1​st​ Monday of each month at Idaho Pizza Company at Glenwood & State at 6pm and are open to all members. Please feel free to stop in to contribute your ideas. Let your Board know what you think about how things are going and sign up to be a part of what’s going on in your club! These meetings are open to all club members and prospective members!

Club Meetings- All Members welcome Past meetings in ​grey February – 2/25 Annual Kickoff Banquet – Presenter Jim Kitchens of Mamason Koi “What we need to know about our ponds coming out of a very difficult winter” & “what is new in pond ‘updating’ and construction”.

March​ – 3/19

Meeting at NEON (North End Organic Nursery) - Water condition

questions. Bring a 1 cup sample of your pond water for testing In a clean jar collected right before the meeting. We will sell test kits April – 4/23 analyze.

Koi Nutrition- bring a label from a koi food container for our experts to

May – 5/21

Boise Train Depot pond clean.

June – 6/18

Lillies – Repotting lilies. Koi of the year picked. Meet at Sue Boydstun’s.

July – 7/16

IWGKS Pond Tour.

August – 8/26

IWGKS Annual Koi Show at IBG & Speaker, Chai Taevanitcharoen, “how to

evaluate a fish’s potential as a tategoi” September – 9/17

IWGKS annual barbecue.

October – 10/22

Meeting at NEON (North End Organic Nursery) – Winterizing your pond.

November -

No meeting

December - TBD

Christmas Party and Dinner.

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IWGKS 2017 Officers: President: Tom Barnes

Past President: Sot Chimonas

President@iwgks.org

PastPresident@iwgks.org

Vice President: Katy Shanafelt

Secretary: Cortney Nielsen

VicePresident@iwgks.org

secretary@iwgks.org

Treasurer: Diane Dann Treasurer@iwgks.org

Newsletter Editor: Katy Shanafelt katy.shanafelt@gmail.com

Past Treasurer: Paul Jackson ​pasttreasurer@iwgks.org Webmaster: Zac Feuerborn ​w​ebmaster@iwgks.org Shop Keeper: Tom Barnes ​Shopkeeper@iwgks.org At Large Board Members: Sue Boydstun; Carl and Bonnie Reiterman PNKCA Representatives: Sot Chimonas & Paul Jackson AKCA Representative: Katy Shanafelt Koi Health Advisor: Sue Boydstun

Committee Chairs: Kick Off: Katy Shanafelt

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Pond Tour: Cortney Nielsen Koi Show: Sot Chimonas

WGKS P.O. Box 6060 Boise, ID 83707 The IWGKS Newsletter is published 10 times per year. Members and others are invited to submit material for publication in our newsletter. Illustrations and good photos may be reduced and incorporated into the newsletter. Advertising is available in our newsletter. Personal ads by members of five lines or less are free with appropriate content determined by the editor.

Commercial ad rates are available by contacting the editor.

Check out our website! www.iwgks.org is running. Email Zac (webmaster@iwgks.org) with your thoughts.

IWGKS needs you! Do you have knowledge or access to information that would benefit your fellow club members? Do you want to volunteer to help the club, but don’t know how you can help?

The IWGKS needs volunteers. If you are interested please contact anyone on the board. If you are in need of info or help with your pond or fish, let us know, that’s what we’re here for!

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​Serving the Treasure Valley since 2012 301 # 45th St #1, Garden City, ID 83714 (208) 713-7754

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IDAHO WATER GARDEN & KOI SOCIETY Membership Request New ___ Renewal ___ (Please Print Clearly) Date: ____Name(s)______________________________________________________ Mailing Address: _______________________________________________________ City: ___________________State: _________Zip Code: __________ Phone (Home): (___ )__________ Phone (Cell):_(____)____________________ Email: ______________________________________ Do you have a pond? Yes_____ No______ Are you interested in having your pond on the pond tour? Yes___ No_____ Do you prefer to receive your newsletter in the mail? If so, Circle Here and add $5 to your membership or renewal, to help us offset the cost of printing and mailing.

Do you prefer to receive notices and reminders via Text Message? If so, give us your cell phone number again here, as authorization to text you! ________________________________ Annual Membership Individual/Household: $25.00 Commercial: $50.00 Note: Commercial membership NOW includes a Full Page ad in each newsletter and on the IWGKS web site! Commercial Members, please e-mail your updated ad copy to us at newsletter@iwgks.org Make your check payable to IWGKS and mail it along with this form to: Idaho Water Garden & Koi Society P.O. Box 6060 Boise, ID 83707

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