DESTINATION CAPE ANN
CAPE ANN
DESTINATION CAPE ANN
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Cape Ann road trip is a memorable way to spend quality time this summer as you take in the vast stretches of green marsh and the sweep of blue seas. Lush, leafy back roads bring you through an arts and culture wonderland, with exciting opportunities for seafood, shopping and a range of recreational activities like hiking, surfing, biking, kayaking and bird watching. Keep cameras handy. Sunrises and sunsets are legendary on Cape Ann. The light here is spoken of with understanding reverence. See it for yourself as you ease into an Adirondack chair at one of Cape Ann’s many gracious inns. Or view it the way painters like Winslow Homer, Fitz Henry Lane and John Sloan saw it. Cape Ann is home to many galleries and museums featuring world-class art. For all its easy accessibility, Cape Ann remains one of this country’s most important and authentic cultural assets. This year those making a Cape Ann road trip will note that it is now part of the Essex Coastal Scenic Byway, an 85-mile stretch of road that hugs the coastal terrain and skirts expanses of The Great Marsh. Just look for the scenic byway’s logo on road signs as you drive. To get the most from your Cape Ann road trip, leave Route 128 and travel north under Route 127’s verdant canopy to Manchester-bythe-Sea. Known for its Singing Beach, shimmering harbor, great shopping and a selection of hard-to-resist restaurants, Manchester is a destination unto itself. Are you searching for a special piece of jewelry? Gladstone, on Union Street, specializes in unusual antique, vintage, and contemporary fine jewelry from around the world. Chat with husband and wife team, Elaine Souza and Charles Gladstone, whose love of beautiful objects guides their selections and gives Gladstone its unique point of view. “We search far and wide,” they say, to find their distinctive mix of old and new pieces. If you happen to be in Manchester-by-the-Sea on July 30, be sure to check out the city-wide, family-oriented arts event that reaches from Town Hall to the harbor and parks. Festival by the Sea, from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., includes a juried art show, local live music, lots of tasty food and scores of artisans. Downtown shops will tempt you with featured specials. Park at the Manchester Essex Regional High School,
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The schooner Ardelle in Essex, MA. Photo: Arlene Taliadoros. Courtesy of Cape Ann Chamber of Commerce.
36 Lincoln Street, and ride the free shuttle. The Manchester division of the Cape Ann Chamber of Commerce hosts. Continuing north, you discover Magnolia, a hidden gem midway between Manchester-bythe-Sea and Gloucester. Dramatic ocean vistas and a charming little village reward curious visitors, as does the delightful Lexicon Gallery run by ceramic artist Seyrel Williams. The gallery makes thought-provoking pairings of ceramic art with art of other mediums. These shows change every six weeks. In addition, Williams displays works from 40-plus artists, many of them local. You’ll discover fine art, ceramics, paintings, jewelry, wearable arts and mixed media in this celebration of Cape Ann creativity. Those already seduced by Cape Ann’s splendor may consider taking an intensive, multi-day art workshop at Northeast Art Workshops, in Kettle Cove—also north of Manchester. Katalene Masella offers artists some of the region’s most up-to-date studio space not far from Magnolia’s ocean views. She brings in top-echelon artists as faculty to run small, immersive workshops.
Lodgers and restaurants partner with Masella so all amenities are covered and the focus stays on the art and the inspiration drawn from the woods, beaches and architecture. Residencies are also available. Continue north to Gloucester and stop by Stage Fort Park, with beaches and grassy parks near popular Stacy Boulevard. Stage Fort Park hosts a popular Farmers Market on Thursdays and the renowned Gloucester Blues Festival on Saturday, August 6. You’ll thrill to rousing blues right on the ocean. Enjoy an open air beer garden, an array of delicious food and craft vendors, as well. This year’s lineup includes Tas Cru, Annika Chambers, Bruce Katz, Sean Chambers, Slam Allen, Mr. Sipp and Popa Chubby. Paul Benjamin is producer and Cape Ann Chamber of Commerce is sponsor. You may want to buy tickets early—there’s a sizeable discount. Gloucester’s highly anticipated Waterfront Festival spreads out at Stage Fort Park on August 20 and 21 for two days packed with art, good food, live music and lots of activities for kids. From 9 a.m. to 6 p.m., explore the juried art show
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CAPE ANN where nearly 200 artists, crafters and jewelry Downtown Gloucester is just a few minutes makers display their works of art. Love lobster? from Stage Fort Park and your next stop. Note Don’t miss Saturday’s big lobster bake. It’s infathe working waterfront along Rogers Street, with mous. It’s famous. Produced by Castleberry Fairs self-guided tours and many prized ethnic and & Festivals in association with the Cape Ann seafood restaurants from which you can view Chamber of Commerce. For more information and photograph the activity. And indulge in on Cape Ann festivals, visit capeannvacations.com. a great lunch! You’ll be hungry from all your Art happens outdoors all over Cape Ann, exploring—not to mention the hearty sea air. known for its magical lighting that has moved In the heart of downtown Gloucester you’ll many an artist to relocate. This fall, when the find a grouping of galleries that represent the lighting is at its most breathtaking, artists will region’s diverse and accomplished arts tradition station themselves across Gloucester, Rockport, starting with Cape Ann Museum on Pleasant Essex and Manchester-by-the-Sea, set up their Street. Just a block from the waterfront, this easels and paint. The week-long Cape Ann Plein storied institution fills 12 galleries with permaAir Competition and Festival runs from October nent and changing exhibitions. Plan to stay a 10–16. Up to 40 artists will compete for $16,000 in while. The museum’s collection of Fitz Henry prizes and awards. The work will be sold at the Lane’s works is unparalleled (see related article Grand Awards Gala on Saturday, October 15 at on page 38). The1museum’s collection includes G_LeslieBartlett_ANE_PrintAd_2.5x5.674_FINAL_HighRes.pdf 5/25/16 3:53 PM the Rockport Art Association & Museum. work by painters Winslow Homer, Marsden
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Hartley, Milton Avery, John Sloan, Cecilia Beaux and Theresa Bernstein, and sculptors Walker Hancock, Paul Manship and the acclaimed Folly Cove Designers—all with strong ties to Cape Ann. Be sure to see the impressive 10-foot tall first order Fresnel lens (1881) from one of the twin lighthouses on Rockport’s Thacher Island. The Jane Deering Gallery is next door to Cape Ann Museum. Deering just opened this gallery space, from which she exhibits artists she says have “footholds in California and the UK” as well as Cape Ann. Deering travels between England, California and Cape Ann. She likes the lively exchange of ideas that happens when she mixes it up. Her first show, titled Points of View, features UK painter Michael Porter and Chris Pullman, who has a summer home in Annisquam, a village of Gloucester. The Flat File Project features two cabinets, ten drawers
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CAPE ANN each, filled with works on paper from around the world. Just a few steps away on Pleasant Street is the Beth Williams Studio, an enchanting room filled with colorful jewelry. Williams is known across the country for the signature glass beads she designs and creates using gold granules and silver threads. “Inspiration comes from my gardens, the ever-changing light on the ocean, the seascapes that surround me … anywhere colors collide in nature,” she says. “Pure silver and gold accents add a final tactile quality, allowing my pieces to be as interesting to touch and view as they are to wear.” Walk a few more steps from Pleasant to Main and cross over to Trident Gallery. Operated by Matthew Swift, the bright, spacious gallery occupies a beautifully restored 1880 bank
building. Look for a small collection of works displayed in the back vault. Trident shows intelligent contemporary art in all mediums, says Swift, and carries on Gloucester’s tradition as a center for new American Art. He is a generous host who answers questions, shows art and takes individuals personally through the gallery. Each exhibition runs for 30 days. Swift also presents innovative live performance pieces using dance and other genres. Continuing on! Next on your art-inerary is a visit to Gloucester’s Rocky Neck Art Colony— long known for its colorful and engaging artists, its fun restaurants and lounges with docks for boaters, and the picturesque galleries this talented group fills with art of all kinds. As you head along Eastern Avenue toward Rocky Neck, there are actually several note-
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artists
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AUCTION
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worthy destinations en route, including the venerable North Shore Art Association. On August 20, 105 works of art, donated by members, will be auctioned. It’s the 94-year-old nonprofit’s biggest fundraiser—and an incredible event. A $25 ticket includes a wine bar, delicious appetizers and much fun. “We’re partnering with another nonprofit, the Gloucester Education Foundation,” says gallery director Linda Cote, “and 10 percent of the proceeds will go to their work with the schools.” A celebrity auctioneer will offer 80 framed works and another 25 unframed works will be available in a silent auction. “We want to be sure there’s something for everyone,” says Cote. A little further down the road, check out the acclaimed Gloucester Stage Company, at 267 East Main and pick up their schedule. You may
Enjoy an evening of fine wine and sumptuous appetizers as you bid on North Shore Arts Association’s Artist Members works of fine art. Tickets $25 each $40 for two. North Shore Arts is proud to support GEF! 10% of auction proceeds will benefit Gloucester Gloucester Education Education Foundation. Foundation
North Shore Arts Association 11 Pirates Lane Gloucester MA 01930 978.283.1857 • www.nsarts.org
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CAPE ANN order theater tickets now to coincide with your visit to Cape Ann, any time between June and mid-October. This internationally known venue for live theater performed by Equity actors was founded by the award-winning playwright Israel Horovitz, whose work continues to be performed at GSC. This year, the 37th season, features a six-play lineup, including the Horovitz world premiere Man in Snow. Now you can make that turn into the Rocky Neck Art Colony. It’s just past the theatre. The mood is festive but don’t be fooled. Here on Rocky Neck, you’ll encounter some of the region’s most talented artists working and exhibiting on this small peninsula alongside trawlers, Coast Guard boats and kayakers. There’s never a dull moment. Color, light, salt air and a flurry of fresh
energy greet visitors to Rocky Neck. Expect surprise and happy serendipity. Working behind the scenes, the Rocky Neck Art Colony and its membership offer scores of events throughout the summer season in support of member galleries, exhibitions and demonstrations. At more than 150 years old, the RNAC is one of our country’s oldest working art colonies. Accomplished artists associated with this storied peninsula include Winslow Homer, Edward Hopper, Childe Hassam and Mark Rothko. The Art Colony’s Gallery 53 hosts member exhibitions and frequent receptions. They also operate Rocky Neck Cultural Center, a stunning renovated church used for exhibitions, readings and special events. Regina Piantedosi’s gallery displays a heady mix of media. She’s known for her serene, meditative boats that seem to float in fog and on
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Representing over 50 artists and artisans Glum Bunnies, Denise Loveless Greenwood, 2014; photo by Meg Lustig
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CAPE ANN seas unrestrained by horizons. But Piantedosi’s creativity is also unrestrained, and lonely, unoccupied boats are only a small part of her oeuvre. “I’m an abstract expressionist. I like to use different surfaces in different media. When people come into my gallery I want them to have an experience. I’m a whirling dervish of creativity,” she says. “I use different mediums to reach as many people as I can.” Judythe Evans Meagher’s gallery sits over the water at Smith’s Cove on Rocky Neck. “I’ve been a member of the Rocky Neck Art Colony for the past 18 years,” she says, “and I’m perpetually inspired by the swaying boats I see outside my windows and the tidal flow I hear and feel just below my floorboards.” It’s no surprise, then, that she studies the changing reflections on the water and strives to capture the interplay of color and light in her work. See her watercolors and oils on
weekends during the summer. Look for Hughes-Bosca’s jewelry at the Side Street Gallery on Rocky Neck. Caro-Gray Bosca and Mary Hughes have been business and artistic partners for 20 years, making their signature designs that, while upscale, are fun and versatile enough to pair with jeans. “We try very hard to be different,” says Bosca. “Our work is bold, and we seek unusual objects. Nothing is off limits. We use gold and gemstones in almost every piece we make. Our work is fresh and alive and it’s certainly not shy. We have a specific eye, and as we get older we get bolder.” Further north, up the coast, is the famed town of Rockport, home of the world’s most famous red fishing shack, Motif #1. From Rocky Neck, we suggest heading north via the back shore— Thatcher Road (Route 127A). It’s a very pretty drive notable for the marshes and beaches you
pass along the way. Perhaps you’re overnighting in Rockport? You have several great options. Turn onto Marmion Way (the road is actually a horseshoe and makes for a perfect walk) and wind along the coast till you find Seafarer Inn. Proprietors Chris and Beth Roenker operate an attractive and welcoming inn that’s situated at the picturesque Straitsmouth Cove. Take in that iconic view from the inn’s wide porch that beckons guests to sit, exhale and relax. The Roenkers are a thoughtful couple with a generous spirit, and they are attentive to guests’ needs. Every room has an ocean view and a private bath. Old Garden Beach, perfect for families, is just down the street. Head back to the main road, now called South Street. You’ll see Seven South Street Inn on your right, just before you descend into bustling downtown Rockport. The inn is known for its friendliness and its full-service breakfast—waffles, Eggs Benedict, croissants, sweet potato hash, blueberry pancakes—that fuels happy guests for their Cape Ann sightseeing excursions. Honeymooners, artists of all genres and first-time visitors sing the inn’s praises. Everything is walkable from here: Old Garden Beach is just a few minutes away, as is the shopping area known as Bearskin Neck. Instead of heading straight down the hill into Rockport center, turn left at Pleasant Street. At the end of Pleasant is the beautiful Beech Grove Cemetery and an inviting path that brings hikers into Rockport’s South Woods trail system. Pleasant Street Inn will be on your left. The 1893 inn, run by the Norris family, is a beauty—grand and stylish, quietly holding forth on this especially pretty street easily viewed through large,
Linden Tree Inn Elegant, Victorian B&B. Enjoy Tobey’s homebaked breakfast. Walk to beach, town, train.
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CAPE ANN sunny windows. The property is perfect for a picnic or an uninterrupted read. And you’re just a block away from seaside shops and restaurants, and only a few blocks from the Shalin Liu Performance Center and Front Beach. Swing back onto South Street, which quickly turns into Mount Pleasant and then into Main. At the small lighthouse, turn left and head up Broadway where you’ll find Lantana House, a popular, intimate inn right in downtown Rockport. Known for its hospitality, Lantana House has five rooms and a suite available year round. Visitors love the deck, which feels secluded despite its proximity to the waterfront shops. The deck is the perfect place to enjoy a cup of coffee or the freshly baked pastries, orange juice and hearty granolas. Need help deciding what to do? Ask your hosts, Richard and Tracy. Need to gallery hop? Read on.
A block south, toward Rockport’s infamous Five Corners intersection, you’ll find iartcolony, run by the wildly energetic, Bob and Jill Whitney Armstrong. “The ‘i’ in iartcolony refers to ‘independent’ and ‘idealistic’,” says Bob. It’s a term that defines both the Armstrongs and exhibiting artists. They show both emerging and established artists to create a lively dialogue among the works, viewers and artists. Exhibitions feature multiple artists from around the world and Cape Ann. “We cross-pollinate,” says Bob, “by bringing artists here and Cape Ann artists to other regions. Our thing is to have Cape Ann prosper.” It’s almost impossible to miss Tusinski Gallery, on Main Street in Rockport, where artist Karen Tusinski’s vibrant poppies insist on being seen. Tusinski’s gallery is also her studio, so be prepared to view works in progress, to breathe in the stimulating aroma of oils and to speak with
A comfortable, relaxing 1776 inn just a short walk to the Village Center and Old Garden Beach, with a four-course gourmet breakfast every morning! Seven South Street, Rockport, MA 978-546-6708 • sevensouthstreetinn.com
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Michael Porter, Coastal Path, Cape Ann, Massachusetts, 2007, oil and acrylic on paper, 17 x 15". Courtesy of Jane Deering Gallery.
the artist about her devotion to her subject matter—bright poppies and monochromatic pebble beaches. “Rockport is special,” says Tusinski, “in part because so many of these galleries you see here are run by the artists themselves.” Her work, she says, reflects these special surroundings. “You can’t help but be influenced by where you live. And the light is incredible.” Walk north just half a block to Rockport Art Association & Museum, said to be the oldest continuously operating art association in the country. The yellow building with blue shutters and doors, and Richard Recchia’s playful ‘Boy and Frog’ sculpture, lets you know you’re in for
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a special visit. The Art Association has regular shows featuring works from its 250 juried members, as well as special shows throughout the year. If you want to know how others see and interpret Rockport and Cape Ann, stop by and view the vast array of art from all 95 years the association has been in operation. Canterbury Hill Studio & Gallery, across the street from the Art Association, represents more than 50 artists and artisans. The owner, Meg Lustig, aims to represent as many of the arts as possible in order to bring something of interest to each of her visitors. “Many people comment the gallery is very eclectic,” she says. “They really
enjoy the variety.” She also works to ensure that the exhibited work is unique among Rockport galleries. “And I honor my grandfather with Canterbury Hill. Max Kuehne was an acclaimed Cape Ann artist and gilder.” Right nearby, Bruce Turner Gallery at Fine Art’s of Rockport displays Turner’s affecting plein air oils. You’ll recognize Rockport in a lot of the beautifully lit scenes he’s created over the 45 years he’s maintained this gallery. He paints in all four seasons, and even his winter scenes are fetching—windows lit from within seem to beckon viewers inside. “Maybe a painting makes you want to go to this place, or maybe it reminds you of a place you love,” says Turner. He spends time observing light and shadow before he chooses the angle and time of day. “Sometimes you can tell right away if it’s meant to be a morning painting.” John Caggiano’s esteemed gallery, at the tip of Bearskin Neck, is a highlight of any art aficionado’s trip to Rockport. “My painting is as colorful as always, but softer now that I use less of the palette knife and more brush work,” he says. He’s been working in and selling from his Bearskin Neck studio and gallery for 37 years. His paintings, often depicting Rockport and Cape Ann scenes, can be described as impressionistic realism. A plein air painter, he travels to plein air festivals on the East Coast. “The art scene in Rockport is getting vibrant again,” he says. “There’s a lot of new energy. It’s also nice that there’s renewed appreciation for representational work–what’s old and new again.” Heading north on Main, past Canterbury and Bruce Turner galleries, to Beach Street, turn left onto King Street to find the elegant Linden Tree Inn, a Victorian bed and breakfast with 12 guest rooms, each with a private bath, and parking. The view from King Street out across Front Beach and the Atlantic is spectacular. Linden Tree Inn is just 800 feet away, summoning all with its famous breakfasts of warm scones (Tobey’s renowned specialty), quiches, made-toorder eggs and crisped potatoes. It’s a perfectly situated home base for any length of stay. Rockport has sea views, one after another, yet it also has gorgeous woods and hiking trails. On the edge of the woods abutting Dogtown— where Hartley was inspired, among others—at the top of Pigeon Hill Street, sits Cynthia Curtis Pottery where Curtis gives her highly sought after classes and sells her own distinctive pottery influenced by all things ocean. Her motto calls
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CAPE ANN to us: Breathe. Relax. Create: Connect your hands with your heart. Her pieces are smooth, rounded and finished with ocean- and nature-inspired glazes—sometimes highlighted with bright sparkles. Her studios, with windows looking into the woods, include wheels, kilns, 30-plus glazes and two kinds of clay. From Pigeon Cove in Rockport, head north, passing Halibut Point State Park, home of granite quarries and absolutely unparalleled ocean views. Here you’ll visit Flatrocks Gallery in Lanesville. Cynthia Switzer Roth and Anne Marie Crotty run this respected, innovative gallery. “Historically, Lanesville has attracted many artists of international acclaim,” says Roth, “such as the sculptor Paul Manship, Virginia Lee Burton and her husband George Demetrios, and Walker Hancock. We had a desire to carry
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on this tradition, so the majority of our artists are from the North Shore.” Flatrocks maintains a beautiful sculpture garden where Sunday afternoon garden parties—open to the public—feature local dancers, musicians and performance artists. Cape Ann includes many small, coastal towns. All unique. Gifts 4 Soul is in Ipswich—a town known for its fried clams and also for its arts community, farms, marshes and beaches. Gifts 4 Soul proprietor Lisa Menino has created a fun and unique shopping experience. She carries organic clothing, jewelry and accessories. She says her products are earth-friendly, and that many are Fair Trade, organic and/or USAmade. Even the jewelry is made from organic and sustainable raw materials. You’ll find lovely one-of-a-kind, hand-crafted pieces, such as handbags and scarves, created by local artisans. Inspiration abounds for early holiday shopping. Before departing Cape Ann entirely, reward yourself with a sunset at Plum Cove. This arched cove, bounded by rocks on both sides, is right off Route 127 near Flatrocks Gallery in Gloucester. In the evenings a handful of people gather to take in the changing array of brilliant colors as the sun lowers, minute by minute, into the horizon. Some viewers just watch. Some swim. Others picnic. One or two meditate. There’s almost always a photographer. They’re gathered to pay tribute to light, beauty and the special community Cape Ann inspires. Perhaps someone there has art hanging in one of the galleries you’ve visited.
—Rae Francoeur
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