Fall 2017 Dining Guide by Bozeman Daily Chronicle

under the Big sky Winter Comforts Farm to Table & Warm Drinks featured Chefs Jay Blaske of Tumbleweeds & Sean Lehmann of Lot G

LoCaL eats Something to consider for every meal

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Dinner

Dessert

CheF Jay Blaske

CheF sean lehMann

Winter COMFOrts

Bone Broth Noodles

Sir Scott's Oasis Steakhouse & Lounge

Cupcake Mountain

Tumbleweeds

Lot G

Farm to Table

Warm Drinks

art DireCtiOn & layOut Christine Dubbs Rebecca Soulé

Written By Lewis Kendall

PhOtOgraPhy Rebecca Soulé

COVer PhOtO Rebecca Soulé

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Our next edition of “Dining Under the Big Sky” will publish next spring. To advertise, call Cindy Sease at 582-2616.

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Breakfast

WilD CruMB Inside Bozeman's Hottest Bakery

Almost any day of the week, any time of day,

Bozeman’s Wild Crumb bakery is hopping. And for good reason.

Walking into the North Wallace Avenue shop

is a feast for the senses. The warm, yeasty scent of

while Heemstra handles the pastry side of things.

Together, the twins have created one of the most sought-after eateries in the Gallatin Valley.

The concept started simple enough. After

Heemstra graduated from the California Culinary

breads, the sweet smell of cakes and pies and the

Academy, the two moved to Montana in the early

well-lit space.

the Gallatin Valley Farmers Market — all baked

savory hint of freshly made sandwiches fill the Meandering into the kitchen, where I meet

co-owner Caroline Schweitzer, who runs the busi-

ness alongside her sister Lauren Heemstra, is even more fun. The room is full of breads at various

stages of preparedness, from doughs to proofed

loaves to golden brown, fresh-from-the-oven brioches and buns.

The breads — everything from a classic sour-

dough to a gorgonzola walnut loaf — are mostly the product of Schweitzer’s experienced hands,

2000s and began selling their breads and treats at from an oven in their small apartment.

At the time, the sisters got involved in the area’s

burgeoning culinary scene, working various jobs in private catering businesses and restaurants.

But not long after the move, a space opened up

in Bozeman’s quickly growing northeast neighborhood, and the sisters jumped on it.

Running their own bakery was a learning expe-

rience, Schweitzer says, particularly the long hours.

Heemstra typically starts baking around 2 a.m.,

cinnamon bun

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breakfast continued >> with her sister usually coming in an hour later.

Naps, Schweitzer says, are essential.

But the longer the two continued to bake, craft and create, the bread and pastries began to speak for themselves and the business side of things

became easier. Word of mouth spread, and Wild

Crumb’s payroll slowly grew (the shop now employs 24 people).

For both Schweitzer and Heemstra, the culinary focus is on bringing a bit of Europe to Bozeman

— classic French pastries and German-style loaves, for instance.

“Each bread I’m doing in a classic way, but putting a new twist on it,” Schweitzer says.

“The simplicity is what’s appealing,” the

34-year-old adds. “It’s being able to have three

different ingredients, change one and change the entire outcome.”

Now fully settled as both business owners and

bakers, the two can’t imagine doing anything else.

“This is what I know and love,” Schweitzer says.

“Watching kids go through the line wide-eyed is nostalgic. To be able to bring friends and family together over something you got to create is the best feeling.”

blueberries

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Lunch

BOne BrOth nOODle The Eatery Fast Becoming a Fan Favorite for its House-made Pho More than a year after opening his restaurant in

At Bone Broth, all the base stock is house-made.

the Albertsons shopping center in Belgrade, Kevin

The beef version starts with Montana Cattle Co.

of the tastiest pho in Montana.

in the back of the restaurant. As the bones are

soup that combines herbs and meat along with

but still requires at least eight hours to maximize

Nguyen has made a name for himself selling some For the unfamiliar, pho is a Vietnamese noodle

bones, which simmer 24/7 in two 40-gallon pots softer, the chicken stock doesn’t take quite as long,

a few vegetables. And Nguyen, who moved to

the flavor.

to make it.

it right,” Nguyen says, taking another spoonful

Montana from California six years ago, knows how When I met him on a recent afternoon, Nguyen

was sitting at a table in his small eatery — Bone

Broth Noodles — slurping on a bowl of steam-

ing, fragrant soup topped with sliced beef brisket,

green onion and cilantro.

Like any good soup, the key to tasty pho, the

39-year-old says, is in the stock.

“We don’t want to do shortcuts, we want to do

of soup. “And it takes a very long time to make a good broth.”

On the restaurant’s tables, laminated cards read

out the various health benefits of bone broth —

mostly in the form of added nutrients like collagen

and glycine.

center: beef sip & dip combination top left clockwise: egg rolls, steamed buns, brisket sandwich (part of combo), shrimp spring roll, fried buns

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lunch continued >> But it’s the flavor — rich and full of umami goodness — that keeps people coming back.

Once folks get in the door and sample the fresh

spring rolls served with housemade peanut sauce,

or the rice vermicelli with grilled pork, cucumber and lime chili fish sauce, they’re sure to come

back, Nguyen said, occasionally for both lunch

and dinner.

“I stay here more than I stay at my house,” he says. “But I enjoy myself when I see people eat-

ing the food and enjoying themselves when the bowl is empty.”

“That’s what makes me happy because I feel I’m doing something good.”

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Dinner sir sCOtt's Oasis steakhOuse & lOunge The Longstanding Classic just Keeps Getting Better Walking into Sir Scott’s Oasis feels a bit like

And what makes Sir Scott’s so good are the

taking a step back in time.

tried-and-true practices that have been refined by

the warmly-lit establishment on Main Street in

over the past three decades.

to the cozy, homey feel of the place.

the beautifully marbled New York strip to the

Charcoal drawings of cowboys and Indians line

Manhattan. Low ceilings and wood framing add And the feeling makes sense: Much of the

building itself used to be an apartment, renovated

and repaired numerous times over the years. Even Sir Scott himself, Scott Westphal

— dressed in camouflage shorts and a white

T-shirt, dark-rimmed glasses perched on his

nose — is a comforting presence, all gravelly

voice and easy manner.

The menu, which has changed noticeably since

Westphal took over the restaurant in 1980, is

nothing fancy — a handful of different cuts of

the restaurant’s many longtime cooks and workers Take the meat, for example. All the cuts, from

hulking porterhouse, are dry-aged in a massive

walk-in cooler for several weeks before serving,

giving them a texture and richness of flavor that’s

almost impossible to find in store-bought meat. Many of the sauces, too, are made in-house,

including the au jus and the batter for the famous, mouth-watering deep-fried finger steaks.

The other thing that sets the restaurant apart,

according to its owner, is the staff. As he gives me a tour of the backrooms, calm in preparation for

the daily dinner rush, Westphal singles out several

steak, several seafood options, chicken, baked

workers, who he calls part of his “big, happy family.”

its simplicity lies the establishment’s secret: When

Sir Scott’s for 20 years, he said.

potatoes, soup and a homemade relish tray. But in

you land on something good, don’t mess with it.

More than half of the staff has been working at “We realized if we didn’t take care of our staff, 17 oz. boneless ribeye, baked potato, garlic toast & relish tray

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dinner continued >>

we would constantly be understaffed and training people,” he said. “It helps us differentiate from

everyone else.”

Most of Westphal’s four children, along with his wife, Marie (who still does the bookkeeping) have worked in the restaurant at one point or anoth-

er. His son, 29-year-old Robert, took over as the primary meat cutter and broil chef.

But if Robert’s attitude toward food — which

mirrors his father’s — is anything to go by, diners

are in good hands.

“Beef is pretty much perfect from the get-go,”

Robert Westphal said as he worked to cut a large,

bright red hunk of meat. “It’s your job not to mess

it up.”

Behind the restaurant’s food, Scott Westphal

is clearly most gratified by his staff, 45 employees

strong, and the impact that Sir Scott’s has had on

the local Manhattan community, population 1,691.

“I’m pretty proud of this; proud of my staff and of my family,” the 58-year-old said.

And at the end of the day, he added, “I just enjoy serving a good meal.”

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Dessert CuPCake MOuntain A Sugary Sweet Symphony for the Senses I have a terrible sweet tooth. A debilitating “I

need something sweet after every meal” sweet tooth. So you could say that Bozeman’s Cupcake

Mountain Cupcakery is my kryptonite.

The shop, recently expanded near the corner of

in trouble, but mess up a cupcake and you can still eat it.”

Christine’s colorful, meticulously crafted cre-

ations are the kind you want to put on a pedestal in

your home, and eating them seems almost a shame.

7th Avenue and Beall Street, even smells like sugar

But it’s a shame that’s well worth it, particularly

buttery icings.

with chocolate buttercream icing, or Terry’s favorite,

— an enticing combination of fruity cakes and

The owners, Christine and Terry Ketterer, met at

Montana State University and started the business

“on a whim” shortly after graduating in 2010.

Christine had a good bit of baking experience

(her cakes were legendary among friends and family) and the thought was “mess up a cake and you’re

with flavors like chocolate toffee chunk, topped

key lime pie with a cream cheese frosting and graham cracker crumbs sprinkled on top.

My shame on this particular day was a fresh,

citrus cake with a delectable frosting complete with chunks of candied pineapple.

“She knows what’s going to make something

chocolate toffee chunk cupcake

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dessert continued >> taste good,” Terry said of his wife. “I just come up

with the wacky ideas.”

“It’s a lot of trial and error, a lot of eating,” he added.

Since opening the store, the couple has had two children, but Christine still gets up early every

morning, baking both for the shop as well as private

catered events.

“I enjoy the fact that I've made a career out of

what has always been a hobby of mine,” she said.

“And I love that I go home smelling like sugar everyday.”

“We’re purists,” Terry added. “We want people to have the tastiest cupcakes possible, and it’s turned

out pretty well.”

My sweet tooth and I heartily agree.

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Jay Blaske

tuMBleWeeDs The Humble, Wholesome Chef Behind One of the Area's Most Popular Food Trucks

“I love to talk to everybody, I just want to know everyone’s story.” For being one of the most recognizable chefs in the

Gallatin Valley, Jay Blaske is about as humble as it gets.

Whether you know it or not, you’ve probably seen Jay,

poking his face — scruff, dark glasses and hearty laugh

— out from behind the counter of his Tumbleweeds food truck. The truck is one of the longest standing

in Bozeman — bopping around between businesses

(Outlaw Brewing, Zoot Enterprises and Oracle) and

community events (farmers markets, S.L.A.M. and Red

Ants Pants).

And even though his food has found a home in the

hearts and mouths of locals, Jay is typically self-effacing

about his culinary successes.

“I kinda did everything backwards,” Jay laughs.

He does have a point. After inviting me into his

home and plying me with Girl Scout Cookies, the

34-year-old, sitting alongside his wife Christa and

shrimp tacos

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tumbleweeds continued >> 7-year-old daughter Marishka, explains how he got to this point.

After working in kitchens in high school and college, Jay ran several cafés in Florida before making the

transition to food trucks, which attracted him, as they do many others, due to the lower overhead, flexibility

and creative freedom that brick and mortar restaurants

often don’t afford.

But the food truck scene in Florida, Jay says, was

huge. So in 2011 the family up and moved to Bozeman (Christa’s hometown) and shortly after opened

Tumbleweeds.

Even though the area was ripe for the arrival of food trucks, especially in comparison to the overcrowded

Florida market, Jay says that he had plenty of trepidation heading into the venture.

“The food truck culture wasn’t there yet, so you’re

going out there and throwing it on the line,” he says.

Without any other trucks to guide him, the chef

also wasn’t sure what direction, food-wise, to go with

Tumbleweeds. He thought about a grilled cheese truck, or maybe building a sandwich-based menu. But in the end, he settled on Mexican fusion — what the owner calls “good feeling” food.

The truck’s menu features tacos and burritos, done

with chicken, smoked pork shoulder, shrimp or veggies cooked in a variety of styles, from American barbecue to Korean.

“Taking someone’s order, making the food and to see that look, that first bite, that’s really cool,” he says.

veggie tacos

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mac n’ cheese

tumbleweeds continued >> But as good as the food is — and it is good — Jay

says the truck is as much a social outlet as it is a culi-

nary or business one.

“I love to talk to everybody,” he says. “I just want to know everyone’s story.”

So he asks, striking up conversation at the truck’s

window every chance he gets. Trips to Costco end up

lasting hours because he gets caught up chatting with friends or fans of his food.

Perhaps even more importantly, Tumbleweeds has

given both Jay and Christa the opportunity to connect themselves to various parts of the local community.

The couple are both passionate about rescue animals

pork shoulder burrito

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capreses sandwich

tumbleweeds continued >> and are active with Heart of the Valley Animal Shelter.

Jay also donates his time and money from the truck to several local nonprofits.

“Some things are just bigger than you are,” he says. People love to ask what’s next or what he has

planned, but in the end, Jay says he avoids thinking too

far into the future with either the truck or his family,

preferring instead to live his life by a simple motto: Do

what you love and love what you do.

“I don’t ever want to grow up so I don’t have to tell people what my next move will be,” he says. “I just

really, really like what we do.”

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Sean Lehmann lOt g The Bozeman-Raised Chef has a Long Resume (The Nova, Feed & Lot G), but he just Wants to Keep Things Simple

“I just want to provide something that’s good for the community and honest." It’s a warm, late summer afternoon when I first step

into the finished Lot G Café — the breakfast and

lunch spot that opened in June in Bozeman’s revamped

Cannery District.

The restaurant is the newest concept from Inspired

Madness, the team behind wildly popular local joints

The Nova Café and Feed Café.

The inside of the new establishment (smaller than

Feed and Nova, but not by much), is a cozy tribute to the natural world, with moss lining the undersides of

the light fixtures and plants scattered in boxes attached to the walls.

Much of the menu, too, is plant-based. The creations

of Sean Lehmann, culinary director and co-proprietor

of Inspired Madness, every offering — from the hoisin

curry bowl

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huevos rancheros

lot g continued >> noodle bowl to the ebelskivers (Danish pancakes)

served with lemon curd and huckleberry jam — is

gluten free.

But Lehmann, who splits his time between Lot G and the kitchens at Feed and Nova, hasn’t sacrificed anything in terms of flavor or creativity.

“I just want to provide something that’s good for the community and honest,” he says, sitting in the restau-

rant following one particularly busy lunch shift.

Lehmann, 36, grew up in Bozeman, graduating from Bozeman High before moving to Seattle, where he

hoped to pursue a career in music. Behind food and cooking, music has always been Lehmann’s passion,

ebelskivers (danish pancakes)

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arugula salad with herb marinated chicken

lot g continued >> and he’s floated in and out of several Bozeman bands,

including popular local cover band Pinky and the Floyd.

Making it as a musician was always a long shot

though, so he settled on cooking, something he found

he had a natural knack for.

From a restaurant in Seattle to a country club in

Bozeman, Lehmann slowly cut his teeth, picking up techniques and recipes that he still calls on in his menus today.

“Almost everything I make comes from something I’ve had,” he says. “It’s the same for music; you gotta steal things.”

Among his several gigs, Lehmann was the sous chef at Bozeman Americana restaurant Boodles and still

remembers the day a gas leak explosion destroyed the

restaurant, along with half the buildings on the block,

killing one woman, Tara Bowman.

In less than 24 hours, Lehmann lost his job and his

home (he was living in an apartment above Starky’s at the time).

But it was this series of unfortunate events that led to Lehmann connecting with Serena Rundberg, the

founder of Inspired Madness, who was looking for a

line cook to help out at Nova.

He was eventually promoted to kitchen manager, and now, along with Nick Garbiel and Anna Visscher, helps

oversee the operations of all three restaurants.

A soft-spoken man with a full red beard and a sleeve

of tattoos running along his upper right arm, Lehmann,

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lot g continued >> for all his years as a musician, still prefers the back of the house to the front of the stage.

And his food, delicious, but not overly showy, reflects that.

There is nothing intentionally complex about Lot G’s menu. The salads are simple, yet flavorful with locally

sourced greens, and the specialty pancake lasagna offers

a delightful juxtaposition of white cheddar cheese and maple béchamel.

But this, Lehmann says, is the way he likes it, just a lot of “feel good food.”

“I don’t have a strong desire to do the most cutting edge thing,” he says. “I’m happy just getting through

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Winter Comforts

FarM tO taBle From Plentiful Produce to Mouth-Watering Honey, the Gallatin Valley's Locals have Plenty to Offer

On a warm, late July day, the 20-acres that span

Three Hearts Farm west of Bozeman are flush with ripe, organic produce.

Deep purple tomatoes sprout from plants eight

feet high, while rows of kale, carrots and several

types of lettuce emerge from the ground, ready to be plucked from the earth.

After being harvested, cleaned and packaged,

many of the vegetables will head to area farmers

markets to be sold. Some will be boxed up in CSAs

and chefs are often intimately connected to pro-

ducers and farms, many of which are just a stone’s throw away.

But as the idea of knowing where your food

comes from has gained mainstream traction, local businesses are reaping the benefits.

Patrick Burr, the owner of Roots Kitchen and

Cannery, is a perfect example.

Of Roots’ roughly 25 canned products — ev-

erything from flavored syrups and jams to smoked

and distributed to local residents, while still more

ketchup, pickles and its award-nominated curried

drive from the field in which they were grown.

including Three Hearts, through the Western Mon-

will change hands at the farm stand just down the A handful of area restaurants — among them

Blackbird, Red Tractor Pizza and Blacksmith

Italian — will also receive some of the harvest to

carrot pickles — many are sourced from local farms, tana Growers Cooperative.

And though the company’s reach is growing

steadily, Patrick says that most of his sales come

incorporate into their menus.

from local shops and partnerships with restaurants.

vision the future of farming and food culture: local,

Montana, so (Roots) was a way to work with local

This is exactly how the folks at Three Hearts en-

fresh and community-driven.

“This is our community and it’s a great way to in-

troduce them some beautiful food that is fresh,” says the farm’s owner Betsy Hicks. “It’s a hidden gem.”

“The health of society is built on healthy commu-

nities, and those communities need to connect with their land and the food that they eat,” adds farmer

Rachael Hicks.

The farm-to-table movement is nothing new,

particularly in the Gallatin Valley, where residents

“We have such a short growing season here in

farmers and benefit them,” Patrick says.

Chefs and businesses love local products, not

only because of their proximity and the community support factor, but also because there’s often more

room for collaboration, the owner adds.

“People see our products and think ‘I could use

this in this way,’ or ‘I could use this in this sort of

dish,’ so it expands their culinary creativity as well,”

Patrick says.

local organic tomatoes

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blueberry-lavender jam from roots kitchen & cannery

farm to table continued >> The farm-to-table movement has long proved a mutually beneficial relationship, helping sprout businesses where before there were none.

Take, for instance, Bozeman’s Montana Honey Bee Company.

Owners Steve and Joyce Thorson have kept their own bees for nearly

the last decade, but it wasn’t until last summer that their hobby morphed

into a downtown business.

“We’re country people and we do a lot of gardening and canning. So it started that way years ago and it’s just been growing,” Joyce says.

The couple now has roughly 65 bee boxes that they harvest into dozens of forms and varieties of products, from creamed and flavored honeys to candles, soaps and lotions.

The business wouldn’t have been possible without community support, a demand for locally produced goods and the desire to form a relationship

with the people growing and harvesting your food.

Back at Three Hearts, as she walks in the field, Rachael Hicks pauses

between her tomato plants and a patch of bright yellow sunflowers. When she talks about farming, there’s one word that she keeps coming back to:

community.

“It’s all about community,” she says. “Healthy communities are built around healthy people and healthy kids. And the more you

know about where and how your food is grown, the more you’re able to appreciate it.”

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Winter Comforts

WarM Drinks Local Beverages Perfect for a Chilly Day

WilDrye Distilling Wildrye has several options for cool weather

The hot rum cider, made with spiced rum, hot

apple cider and garnished with a slice of apple and an

drinks. The classic-yet-delicious hot toddy, made

orange peel is a surefire hit after a long day, cold day.

lemon and honey.

combining the distillery’s Montana 1889 Whiskey

with the distillery’s spiced rum, combined with tea, The hot apple pie is also a great choice for warm-

ing the hands and the heart. The drink starts with

Wildrye’s Apple Pie liquor, mixed with a pinch of

cinnamon and nutmeg, and topped with whipped cream and a stick of cinnamon.

The distillery also makes a mean peppermint patty

The hot cinnamon apple is also a delicious option,

with hot cider and a dash of cinnamon and nutmeg.

lOCkhOrn CiDer hOuse What says fall better than fresh apple cider?

Situated near the corner of Wallace Avenue and

Babcock Street, Bozeman’s Lockhorn Cider House

drink by combining spiced rum with peppermint

offers 10 different variations of its hard cider, from

teed to melt the frost off your nose.

like Habañero and Flathead Cherry.

BOZeMan sPirits Distillery

fire that is sure to warm even the coldest bones.

schnapps and hot cocoa. It’s a drink that is guaran-

the classic Bone Dry Apple to more unique flavors Even better, the cider house has an outdoor wood

Located on Main Street in downtown Bozeman,

Bozeman Spirits is a great place to imbibe whatever the weather.

mulled apple cider

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restaurant inDeX WilD CruMB

600 N Wallace Ave #6 (406) 579-3454 // www.wildcrumb.com HOURS: 7AM -3PM // Closed Mondays

BOne BrOth nOODles

7001 Jackrabbit Ln Suite D, Belgrade, MT (406) 813-8466 Hours: 11AM – 8:30 PM

sir sCOtt's Oasis steakhOuse & lOunge

204 W Main St, Manhattan, MT (406) 284-6929 Hours: 11AM – 12 AM Tuesday to Sunday 4:15PM – 12 AM Monday

CuPCake MOuntain CuPCakery 218 N 7th Ave (406) 577-2787 www.bozemancupcakery.com Hours: 10 am – 5:30PM Closed Sunday & Monday

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tuMBleWeeDs FOOD truCk

Check for current location at www.facebook.com/TumbleweedsTruck/

lOt g CaFÉ

109 E Oak St #1J (406) 600-6802 // lotgcafe.com Hours: 7AM – 2 PM

three hearts FarM

2111 Love Ln (406) 404-6639 // www.threeheartsfarm.com Hours: 9AM – 6PM Monday to Friday 9AM -3PM Saturday, Closed Sunday

rOOts kitChen & Cannery www.rootskitchencannery.com

MOntana hOney Bee COMPany 19 S Tracy Ave (406) 624-6446 Hours: 10AM – 6PM Monday to Saturday 10AM – 5 PM Sunday

WilDrye Distillery

111 E Oak St #1e (406) 577-2288 // www.wildryedistilling.com Hours: 3PM – 8PM Monday to Wednesday 12PM – 8PM Thursday to Sunday

BOZeMan sPirits

121 W Main St (406) 577-2155 // www.bozemanspirits.com/ Hours: 10AM – 8 PM Monday to Saturday 12PM – 8PM Sunday

lOCkhOrn CiDer hOuse

21 S Wallace Ave (406) 580-9098 www.lockhornhardcider.com Hours: 4PM – 12AM Monday to Friday 2PM – 10PM Saturday & Sunday

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