Dining Guide Spring 2017

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UNDER THE BIG SKY CHEF PROFILES Cory Dragone of Blacksmith Italian & Josh Gordon of Toro FEATURED RESTAURANTS For breakfast, lunch, dinner and dessert FOR SUMMER COOKS Find new inspiration for home cooking at Rocky Mountain Seafood, Spice & Tea Exchange


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CONTENTS BREAKFAST

Jam! Fusion Café

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LUNCH

10

DINNER

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DESSERT

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CHEF CORY DRAGONE

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CHEF JOSH GORDON

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SUMMER COOKS

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SUMMER COOKS

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TWO FAVORITES MAKE A MOVE

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TWO FAVORITES MAKE A MOVE Ghost Town Coffee

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RESTAURANT INDEX

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Chalet Market

Pompey’s Grill

Sweet Peaks Ice Cream

Blacksmith Italian

Toro

Rocky Mountain Seafood & Asian Goods

The Spice and Tea Exchange

I-Ho’s Korean Grill

ART DIRECTION & LAYOUT Christine Dubbs Rebecca Soulé

WRITTEN BY

Lisa Reuter Hannah Overton

PHOTOGRAPHY Rebecca Soulé

COVER PHOTO Rebecca Soulé

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2017 SPRING DINING UNDER THE BIG SK Y

Our next edition of “Dining Under the Big Sky” will publish this Fall. To advertise, call Cindy Sease at 582-2616.


LOCAL FOODS, EXOTIC FLAVORS contemporary south asian cuisine open @ 5pm for dinner every night 1511 W. Babcock Street • 406.586.0800 enjoy our outdoor patio this summer make your reservation at saffrontable.com

bozeman, montana


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JAM! FUSION CAFÉ A Twist on Classic Breakfast & Lunch Fare

“Making everything from scratch makes for a really labor-intensive menu,” Parker said. “But it’s awesome to have an establishment that everyone seems to love and appreciate as much as we’d like them to. It’s cool to feel that at the end of the day.” Since it opened in December, Jam! Fusion Café has been jam-packed on weekends, a sure sign that owner

baristas and servers, and chef David Wiehler, who has

long had a following in Bozeman. Parker also credits

Aaron Parker got it right when he was researching new

Dave Weiss, former owner of Dave’s Sushi, and The Bay

Coast. If you haven’t been able to get into Jam! yet, come

The Jam! twists permeate the food menu too. For

Guests are enjoying everything from the airy atmo-

is, topped with caramel and toasted pecans. There are

music mix – there’s something for every generation – and

on an English muffin; chicken and biscuit served on a

you’re here, everybody is taking care of you,” Unger said.

including charred tomato, balsamic reduction and fresh

breakfast eateries from Nashville and Denver to the West

during the week, suggested general manager Chris Unger. sphere and bright Lorin Pope wall mural to the eclectic

energetic team approach to excellent service. “When

But what snagged the quickly formed posse of Jam!

regulars was the café’s take on food and drink. It starts with the mimosas, including the Jamosa, a blend of

bubbly and orange and grapefruit juice, and the G-Funk

mimosa, mixing sparkling wine and grapefruit juice with

Bar & Grille owner Kurt Shull for their mentoring. breakfast, the house-made cinnamon rolls are min-

four kinds of Eggs Benedict: basic and crab cake served

house-made biscuit; and Mia, a combo of Italian flavors

mozzarella and basil on house-made sourdough. Diners

can order one or mix and match a couple of them.

The most popular entree, the huevos rancheros, is

made with both green chili and ranchero sauce, cilantro lime crema and cotija cheese, and served with a citrus

elderflower syrup, raspberries and mint. On the beer side,

arugula and colorful heirloom potatoes. Nearly every ex-

lime wedge and pepperoncini; and a Beermosa of Pilsner

aiolis, hollandaise sauce, salad dressings and the strawber-

“The key is fresh-squeezed juice,” Unger said. “I

Accompanying most every breakfast entrée is the

Copper Whiskey Bar & Grill. It’s really fun to take some

of Big Sky. Addicted diners can buy the brand at the

there’s a Michelada, combining Pilsner, Bloody Mary mix,

and orange juice.

learned that working with Jon Slye and Jay Thane at

ideas, put your own twist on them and get people excited.”

Ideas have come from the entire Jam! staff, including

tra for every dish is also made in-house, including breads,

ry filling for the diners-favorite stuffed French toast.

coffee, a roast made especially for Jam! by Caliber Coffee restaurant, and many of them do. Every good breakfast

begins with a great cup of coffee, Parker and Unger agree.

mini house-made cinnamon rolls

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breakfast continued >> “We sell an amazing amount of drip coffee, even

though our baristas were trained in the best coffee shops

in Bozeman,” Parker said. “A quality coffee is something we’ll never stop working on.”

For people who prefer lunch more than breakfast,

there’s a selection of tacos and an extensive sandwich list,

including a Veg Head that carries fresh mozzarella and

Swiss cheeses, herb pesto, heirloom tomatoes, marinated seasonal mushrooms and cucumbers on the house sour-

dough. Other sandwiches have names familiar to longtime

Bozeman residents: the Steve Harper, Counter Assault,

Viennese and Mary Moe. They were once served at Frank’s Custom Catering.

Co-owning that former Bozeman catering biz is part of Parker’s extensive restaurant background. “Ever since

I was old enough to legally work and hold a frying pan,

I’ve worked in a kitchen,” he said. “Both my parents were

teachers. We didn’t go out to eat a lot, but when we did, I

was infatuated with how restaurants ran, and the environ-

ment of a restaurant.”

He bought his first during the last recession, while he

was still in college. “I was a finance major, and there were

people with MBAs waiting in line at job fairs. I realized

I could put another $25,000 into my education or buy Paulie’s Hot Dogs & Deli in Bozeman.”

With a home equity loan his parents took out, and another from Big Sky Western Bank, he did. He also

co-owns a couple of restaurants in Williston, N.D., and

Dave’s Sushi in Bozeman. “That all made Jam! possible,” he said.

Unger joined the Jam! team a few weeks before the

opening, and manages the front of the house so Parker can work where he prefers, in the kitchen. Manager and owner

are equally complimentary of each other’s abilities, and

both praise Wiehler’s chef skills. “He’s so creative, it’s awe-

some. He has a ridiculous ability to put flavors together,”

Unger said.

That creativity has allowed the restaurant to move from weekend to daily specials in short order. “Making every-

thing from scratch makes for a really labor-intensive menu,”

Parker said. “But it’s awesome to have an establishment

that everyone seems to love and appreciate as much as we’d like them to. It’s cool to feel that at the end of the day.”

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CHALET MARKET

A Longtime Favorite Is Just Right for Lunch & Gifts “There’s some horseradish in there for a good kick,” Gwen said. “I always bring an unopened jar of it to any grill parties I’m invited to and just leave it there after. I don’t want anything else on my brats.” When Mark and Gwen Croghan took over the vener-

at the market, sell well too, and each weekday, there’s a

able Chalet Market five years ago, the business had been

choice of two breakfast specials. Some of the sandwiches,

knew it and where it was at 6410 Jackrabbit Lane.

make that. People love it,” Gwen said – have been on the

enthusiasts, and travelers have stopped in at the Swiss

“What makes a sandwich is the meat, and we make all

pared with meats made at the Chalet’s USDA meat plant

Gwen said. “We make sure to use plain rolls, so the flavor

going strong for 35 years, and people all across Montana Generations of workmen, fishermen and other outdoor Chalet-style building for its acclaimed sandwiches, preand deli. Every week a shopper or two will tell a story

including the famous Mexi-ham sandwich – “jalapenos

menu for 30 years.

of it, except the turkey, here. We make our own bacon too,” of the meat can come out.”

about visiting the place years ago.

Many deli regulars come in several times a week, and

Gwen said. “There’s just something about this place that

often something for dinner and one of the international

As soon as hungry shoppers open the door they smell

Spring through fall, the Buffalo Wagon, located outside

“We have a lot more men than women customers,” men like. I think it’s the meat.”

the hearty flavors of roast beef and pastrami; smoked beef, teriyaki, buffalo, elk and pepperoni stix; buffalo jerky and

summer sausage; and multiple kinds of bratwurst. There

are three kinds of fruity stix too, craberry, huckleberry and

pineapple teriyaki. All are made on the premises by Mark,

sometimes twice a day. That second daily purchase is

or Montana micro-brewed, mix and match beer choices. in the market’s oversized parking lot, fires up from 10:30 to 2 each weekday, offering burgers, grilled sandwiches

and fries. Like the deli offerings inside, they too can be

bought to go or enjoyed at several outdoor tables. Some

folks call ahead to order.

who uses his own recipes, some from previous owners

2012, the year the Croghans bought the Chalet

Kreitlinger, who opened the business in 1977. Two of the

son. Gwen had been working at the nearby Yellowstone

and a few that have come down from Jack and Stanlie

recipes, for teriyaki sticks and buffalo salami, have won

Mark awards at the Montana Meat Processors Association convention.

Pre-made sub sandwiches are best sellers every day

of the week. The deli soups and salads, made fresh daily

Market, was a tough one for Mark, who was a stonema-

Harley-Davidson for more than a decade, and she’d

often picked up sandwiches at the market. A new hire at the motorcycle store, who’d come from the market, told

her it was for sale. Gwen told Mark, who had worked at

restaurants around Bozeman and in Massachusetts while

turkey croissant sandwich, pepper bacon, apricot mayo, turkey, sprouts

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lunch continued >> going to school. He was ready for a change. Four months before their second son, Tucker, was born, they bought

the market from Linda Stowers.

Right away, Gwen brought Tucker to work with her.

That Christmas, when they experienced their first holiday gift box rush, Bodi, then 4, began helping to pack them.

He enjoys being part of the business.

“If we’d known what it meant to own a USDA plant, we might not have done it. There was a wild learning

curve,” Gwen said.

A government inspector shows up at the plant every morning or evening to check cleanliness or paperwork

about the day’s production, including records of production times and temperatures. But those four initials also

allow the Croghans to ship gift packages to nearly all 50

states, so it is worth the work, Gwen added. Last Christ-

mas, some 4,000 were shipped nationwide. That doesn’t

even include the ones that were purchased at the store or at Gallatin Valley Mall.

Since taking over the market, the Croghans have

worked long hours to grow the business, which includes

a Montana gift shop in the deli. It sells all of their meat

products of course, along with their own Chalet Market brand of Honey Mustard. “There’s some horseradish in

there for a good kick,” Gwen said. “I always bring an un-

opened jar of it to any grill parties I’m invited to and just

leave it there after. I don’t want anything else on my brats.”

Henry’s Grandma’s Catsup, made in Bozeman from all natural ingredients, is the only kind used in the deli, and

it’s a good seller in the gift shop. So are the local Roots

Kitchen & Cannery pickle varieties. Gwen takes pride

in offering nutty Mountina Swiss cheese from Vintage

Cheese in Four Corners, Arthur Wayne Hot Sauce out of

Missoula and a longtime area favorite, Rocky Mountain

Roasting Company Coffee from Belgrade.

There’s one Wyoming interloper, Zap’s Smoke Shack

Apple Smoked Cheeses out of Powell, but they’re a perfect add-on for any Chalet Market meat. Complementing ev-

erything are the huckleberry jam and syrup, pancake mixes packaged in clothe bags and Montana decorated kitchen towels, mugs and more.

If you need to grab a quick gift – especially for an

out-of-stater – grab your lunch at the Chalet Market. You

can shop while they make your sandwich. If you’re having trouble choosing from among the many offerings, keep

your eye out for the little cards that point out favorite staff

picks. You can’t go wrong.

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POMPEY’S GRILL: THE SACAJAWEA HOTEL A Steady Team That Stays True to Its Ideals Amid Constant Change

“We hear a lot that people are surprised to find this top-quality experience, the great food and wine list, in Three Forks, and we take a lot of pride in that,” Chef Matt Israel said. Chef Matt Israel has run the kitchen at the Sacajawea Hotel in Three Forks since the Folkvord Family, owners

of Wheat Montana Farms & Bakery, reopened it in 2010 to give back to the community that’s been so great to

the fact that out here, we are doing our own thing the

way we want to do it, uninfluenced by anyone else, and

we hang our hat on that. People come out here and get

the Sacajawea experience. They feel it’s genuine and not

them. His sous chef has been with him for 10 years, and

influenced by what’s happening elsewhere. That’s what we

kitchen for at least two years.

Known from the beginning as a top steakhouse,

it’s great to have that to work off of,” he said. “We try to

upscale selections and an ala carte menu that puts a spot-

most of the rest of his 15-person staff has worked in his “We have many seasoned cooks in the kitchen, and

work as one. And we try to pull off everyone’s skill set. It

want, that individuality, and we’re holding on to that.”

Pompey’s Grill has expanded its reputation to include light on the best area ingredients.

takes every one of us to make it work.”

“This summer, we’ll be focused on a lot of fresh flavors,

staff. I can’t say that enough. Their commitment and

don’t focus on any one style of food. We focus on bold,

Israel’s team serves both of the hotel’s restaurants: the

the food look good, it really tastes good. We make sure

He added, “What makes this restaurant great is the dedication is what makes the hotel great.”

widely praised Pompey’s Grill, and the Sacajawea Bar

Restaurant where the vibe is laid back but the food quality never is. They also cater dozens of hotel weddings each year.

like we always do, in a style that’s creative American. We

delicious flavors. It’s important to us that not only does we put interesting combinations on the plate.

“With our appetizers,” he continued, “we make sure

they are fun and different, out of the ordinary. We want

to give people the opportunity to sample lots of different

“We hear a lot that people are surprised to find this

flavors there and on the whole menu. That’s why we offer

Three Forks, and we take a lot of pride in that,” he said.

trée. We encourage people to sample through the menu.”

top-quality experience, the great food and wine list, in

“In other places, restaurants are often trying to change and one-up each other. It’s a battle and a struggle. We enjoy

a lot of small plate dishes. You’re not forced into a full en-

He encouraged diners trying Pompey’s Grill for the first time to share an assortment of appetizers first.

pepita crusted scallops, urad dal, herb poached butternut squash, morel mushrooms and cuttlefish aioli and macro greens 2017 SPRING DINING UNDER THE BIG SK Y

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dinner continued >> “Then try one of our house-cut steak options. We have a

craft butchery section on the menu and we hand-cut all of our steaks.”

For dessert, the crowd favorite is coconut crème pie.

“We’re not allowed to take that off the menu,” Israel said.

The 37-year-old chef has worked in kitchens for more than half his life now, and he knows part of his job is

keeping himself motivated and searching for inspiration.

He gets ideas from cookbooks by Yotam Ottolenghi, Ming

Tsai and Thomas Keller, from the internet, magazines and other Montana restaurants.

His creativity is also pushed by the food itself. “Take

our Montana Highland lamb out of Whitehall. I’ll sample that just as it is, with a little salt and pepper and wow, it’s

exceptional in quality. You don’t want to do anything but accent that flavor and compliment it,” he said.

“Inspiration can come from anywhere. It can come from going to the Avon café in Avon, Montana, and eating

their chicken fried steak, which is my favorite. But I don’t want to make their chicken fried steak, because I want to

go there and eat it,” he added quickly. “Re-creating things isn’t nearly as much fun as creating from scratch.”

Israel hasn’t bounced around much in his career, which is a rare thing for exceptional chefs. Younger chefs learn

from working for better chefs, he said, but at some point,

they need to learn how to motivate themselves, to develop their own recipes.

“Being self-motivated is a process. It can be challenging, because it can be easy to get into the day-in, day-out rou-

tine. It’s a matter of making yourself accountable. I know there are 15 people in the kitchen looking to me to con-

tinue pushing forward. That’s my motivational factor. Plus,

I enjoy it. Cooking is fun because there is a never-ending

combination of ingredients, flavors and presentations. It’s always changing and evolving.

“As every year goes on, I do things differently. When

people ask me what my favorite dish is, I don’t have an answer. It’s different today than it was yesterday or last week,

and it will be different tomorrow. It’s always changing.”

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SWEET PEAKS ICE CREAM At Last, Bozeman Gets a Sweet Peaks “Ice cream is like a blank canvas you can do anything with,” Marissa Keenan Dauenhauer said. It’s also a food that plays in our memories. Sweet Peaks Ice Cream owners Sam and Marissa

and salted cashews; Montana Sunrise, a combo of maple,

Keenan Dauenhauer knew they’d bring their hand-craft-

cinnamon and bacon; and Montana Trails, in which the

it for four years, but had trouble finding the right space.

house-made chocolate bark with toasted almonds, dark

ed ice cream to Bozeman eventually. They thought about

chocolate ice cream, with oreo cookie crumb “dirt” and

In the interim, they also had two children (daughter Da-

chocolate and marshmallows, is the Sweet Peaks version of

12-year-old sister Aria), moved to a larger production

In seven years in business, the Dauenhauers have

gny, three-and-a-half, and son Solomon, two, have joined facility and opened three more stores.

When the Bozeman shop at the corner of 7th and

a Montana spring road good enough to eat.

created hundreds of flavors of ice cream, only a few no more than once. The flops have included pickle,

Main opened April 21, it became their lucky No. 7,

mushroom and mustard. “We had to melt down the

Kalispell (2012), Missoula (2014), Burly’s at Whitefish

was heinous,” Marissa recalled.

behind Whitefish (opened in 2010), Bigfork (2011),

City Beach (2015) and Coeur d’Alene, Idaho (2016). The local shop also chalked up their best opening week ever.

Clearly, Bozeman was waiting for Sweet Peaks.

The lure is Sweet Peaks’ deserved reputation for

scrumptiously creamy ice cream made from Montana

Hutterite farm milk and churned into crazy inventive

flavors that include as many Montana products as the

mustard before we could toss it, and the smell of that On the other hand, their ranch dressing and carrot

flavor, based on an eating fad Aria was going through, won them press in two national magazines, including

Paula Deen’s.

They debut new flavors seasonally, and rotate others

about every six weeks. This month, for example, they’re hoping to offer a new flavor mixing local Amaltheia

couple can imagine, including huckleberries, laven-

Dairy goat cheese with Montana Flathead cherries, and a

limoncello liqueur, which nicely jazzes up the fan favorite

spring is a good time to also introduce Bozeman to pop-

der honey and Whitefish-based Spotted Bear Spirits' huckleberry limoncello.

Sweet Peaks serves common flavors made uncommonly good. But it also offers Benny Up Ceres Bakery Sweet

Potato Sticky Bun (inspired by a friend named Benny and

concoction pairing lilac with lemon cake. Marissa thinks

ular London Fog, made with Earl Grey tea, vanilla wafers

and lemon peel.

“Ice cream is like a blank canvas you can do anything

with,” she said. It’s also a food that plays in our memories.

the Kalispell bakery), Frosted Animal Cookies & Sprinkles,

“My Pennsylvania grandpa gave us ice cream every night

more sprinkles besides; Cat Tracks, a nod to MSU featuring

it’s part of everyone’s celebrations of birthdays, summer

a luscious pink cream filled with the sprinkled cookies and salty caramel ice cream with chocolate chip cookie bits

after dinner, always in blue bowls,” she remembered. And baseball wins, ballet performances and everyday things. frosted animal cookies, huckleberry and huckleberry limoncello with sprinkles 2017 SPRING DINING UNDER THE BIG SK Y

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dessert continued >> In every city where they have a shop, Marissa and Sam

try to pair beloved local flavors with their ice cream. Their

Bozeman coffee flavor uses Treeline Coffee Roasters, and they hope to make tasty combinations with Lockhorn

Cider and with Wild Crumb. Yum.

Marissa’s parents owned a restaurant, so she’s never

been afraid to play with food. Before she met Sam, she

had thoughts about a company that would sell trian-

gle-shaped ice cream sandwiches – “like the peaks of

Glacier National Park’’ – made with all kinds of park-

themed flavors. She already knew she’d call it Sweet Peaks,

and she’d begun making different ice cream flavors in her home kitchen.

“The more creamy you make it the better. Don’t shy

away from the milk fat,” she advised cooks who make their

own ice cream.

Sam had previously owned a coffee shop, and that saved the couple a lot of rookie mistakes, Marissa said. He also

convinced Marissa that they needed to take a chance on their ice cream idea and open a storefront. They jumped

and haven’t looked back. They’ve since seen a generation of

great young people work their way through the Sweet Peaks shops. McKenzie Wick, manager of the Bozeman store, started as a teenage scooper in Whitefish six years ago.

The Bozeman shop is the largest Sweet Peaks so far,

and Sam enjoyed designing the space to incorporate parts

of every other shop. “We wanted to have an area for retail, and we’re selling some of Sam’s graphics and things made

by others,” Marissa said. “There’s a place for kids of course.

We have old vintage refrigerator doors at all the stores

with word magnets on them, and kids think that’s really

fun to play with. Then there’s a step-up at the counter for

them. Kids have to be able to see the ice cream to order it.”

Unlike most of the other shops, the Bozeman store has space for tables and chairs. “We hope it will become a

gathering place for people,” she said.

From the beginning, she added, “our goal was not only to produce an ice cream using as much Montana product

as possible, but also to make the best quality and provoc-

ative flavors that ask people to expand their palates in fun

and different ways. We want to show people what good ice

cream can be and what you can do with it.

“We want to be a place where people celebrate things,

and we’re trying to be a positive business and a part of our

community. That’s really important to us.”

Welcome to Bozeman, Sweet Peaks.

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Montana Steakhouse and Gathering Place Open Sunday - Thursday 4:30-9:30pm Friday & Saturday 4:30-10pm Happy Hour 4:30-6pm every day

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BLACKSMITH ITALIAN A Devotion to All Food Italian

The chef at Blacksmith Italian Restaurant is big, effusive and passionate about food. He’s picky about where his spices, cheeses, olive oils, fresh produce and proteins come from. His hands flow through and chop at the air when he talks, a reflection of his upbringing on the Italian side of Rochester, NY. His mother, Jo, was born in Italy. The Blacksmith Italian in

the restaurant’s name is his great-grandfather, Stefano Dragone, who immigrated to America from Italy. Chef Cory Dragone

isn’t just disposed toward Italian cooking, he’s devoted to it.

“For me, Italian cooking is home cooking. It’s food that’s

fresh. It’s not a million ingredients in a dish. It’s just a few. A

few very good ingredients,” he said. “How I cook is definitely from the heart and soul.”

How he cooks is also a story about a lot of years on the road, and it’s about family. And that eventually brings the conversation around to restaurant owner Steve Dragone. Stefano’s

grandson. Cory’s dad.

lobster over risotto primavera: butter roasted lobster tail, saffron risotto with crab, organic peas, tomato, asparagus

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pastas: squid ink, gnocchi, green ravioli, tomato fettuccini

blacksmith italian continued >> “I always wanted to be in the restaurant business,” Cory said. In high school, he studied cooking at vocational school, and worked at a fish market and Wegmans Grocery. He bussed

tables in the restaurant his aunt managed. “I knew I loved ev-

erything about it, and that I wanted to own my own restaurant.

I knew you could do it if you cooked in a restaurant where people loved your food.”

So he trained at more than 35 restaurants in seven states

including, early on, a French bistro where they instructed him

in the classical French way. He picked up his dessert skills from

a European-trained pastry chef with 30 years of experience.

“From them, I learned enough to understand how to make my own recipes,” he said. “We use all of our own recipes here.”

In Florida, a chef who had worked at Chicago’s famed

Charlie Trotter’s took an interest in Cory’s education, encourhutterite pork chop: thick cut and smoked sweet mustard glaze, spring panzanella salad of rosemary focaccia, green beans, organic potato, arugula and apple cider vinaigrette

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blacksmith italian continued >> aging him to apply to work for the Culinary Institute of America at Greystone in Napa Valley, Calif., to beef up his resume.

Multiple interviews later, he was hired. He worked in the pro

restaurant, helped teach culinary students how restaurants work

and how to make authentic risotto, and took every short class he could.

“Years later, my dad wanted to go into the restaurant busi-

ness with me, and we run this whole place together. He trusts

me, and I trust him. We have a lot of things in common, our vision is the same, and we come to conclusions faster than other

partners might because we’ve known each other my whole life.

My dream didn’t work out how I always thought it would, it worked out better.”

Steve and Cory opened Blacksmith Italian in a closed

restaurant space in the shopping center at Kagy Boulevard and

Willson Avenue in 2013. The previous owners were also archi-

tects. They designed the funky, shiny curved half wall that’s now

bar seating and separates guests from the tiny open kitchen. The

Dragones kept it and installed booths and 12 more seats. They

opened their restaurant six weeks after they’d moved to Bozeman. Since then, they’ve added an outside patio with a fireplace that’s popular as the weather begins to warm.

Most nights, Steve is at that half wall, talking with guests and

keeping an eye on everything. Cory is on the other side, working

as the wheel guy, at a cooking station or wherever he’s needed.

“There’s only ever two people cooking at a time because the

kitchen is so small. If we had anybody else, we’d be in each oth-

er’s way.” Because of that, Cory limits his dinner menu to 10

classic dishes, two specials a night and four Italian desserts. He makes changes every couple of months. There are five burners on the single stove and two racks in the little oven, yet all of

the meat braising and sauce simmering, the pasta making and

crème brulee artistry come out of that tiny space. It’s a carefully choreographed dance every night.

Cory spends most of six days a week at the restaurant,

shaping menus, ordering food, helping with prep work and

structuring each day’s priorities and daily lists. The lists help

him think everything through.

caprese salad: mozzarella, fresh basil, three hearts farm tomatoes, heirloom tomatoes, balsamic vinegar and olive oil 2017 SPRING DINING UNDER THE BIG SK Y

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blacksmith italian continued >> A couple of dishes have always been on the menu, including the Calamari alla Puttanesca appetizer, classic Squid Ink

Tagliatelle and the Orecchiette Rustica. “Orecchiette means

little ears in Italian,” he explained. “We make our eggless pasta

dough, really old school, roll it, cut it into little strings, roll it

with our hands and pinch it to make the little ear shape. Then we add house-made Italian sausage, Italian greens and red

sauce. It’s very rustic, what Italian restaurants should be about.

“The ravioli is a staple. We make a three-cheese ravioli from scratch that we serve with Yellowstone Grassfed Beef in our

own Bolognese sauce. The Grassfed Beef Tenderloin comes

with a rich marrow gravy that you never make at home because

it takes two days. A favorite appetizer is our dates stuffed with

gorgonzola, pancetta and local honey. Some nights, I think it goes to almost every table.

“A new dish is the Garganelli with Oxtail Ragu. That’s a

chef ’s dish. If you want something rich and unique, that’s it.

You sear off the oxtail to lock in the flavors, then add your veg-

Hand Crafted Italian Dining

etables, herbs and spices, and red wine and liquid, and braise

it in the oven for hours. When you take it out, you pull all the

meat off the bones and shred it, and turn the braising liquid

into a sauce. You put a little cream in it, and grilled radicchio to cut the richness, and top it with a little bit of cheese and

horseradish crème fraiche.”

But that’s only half of it. Every garganelli noodle is made by hand, one at a time, on a garganelli board. The dough is rolled in thin sheets and cut in two-inch squares. The squares are

wrapped around a dowel that’s rolled across the board. There’s a

reason Blacksmith Italian’s food is called handcrafted.

What could possibly top any of that, or provide a quintessential Italian ending to the meal?

The Butterscoth Budino. “It’s a home-made butterscotch pudding made on the stovetop, moved to a mixer and then back to

the stove to get the right consistency. When it’s ordered, we put

caramel sauce, sea salt and whipped cream on it. If you order it,

you’ll order it again. And if crème brulee is your favorite dessert, budino is going to become your favorite dessert.”

Just like Blacksmith Italian is going to become one of your favorite restaurants.

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Located in the historic Cannery District, Seven specializes in authentic Japanese sushi, as well as a variety of Japanese fusion appetizers and entrées to pair with your favorite beer, wine or sake.

113 eaSt oaK Street, Suite 1a BoZeMan, Mt 406-577-2241 • www.7bozeman.com/reservation

1620313

Monday - Saturday 11:30aM to 10:00pM Sunday - 4:00pM to 10:00pM Happy Hour: all day Monday tueSday - Friday 4:00pM - 6:00pM

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Open for lunch and dinner Monday through Friday, dinner on the weekends! Mon - Fri: 11am - 9:30pm Sat - Sun: 4pm - 9:30pm (406) 404-1270 | pizzacampania.net 1285 N Rouse Ave, Bozeman, Montana at the corner of Oak and Rouse, right behind Lone Mountain Gymnastics


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TORO

Working to Translate the Great Tastes of Childhood Josh Gordon’s mom, Deborah, likely put him on his career path at an early age without realizing it. The family lived in suburban Chicago. “There was a strong Hispanic presence and we probably had Mexican food out once or twice a week,” he said. “My mom was from Arizona and loved Mexican cuisine. My dad, Michael, was not a huge fan of spicy foods. So if Mom and I were going out, we were going for Mexican food, usually to the authentic places. If it was a special occasion, we’d go to one of the nicer Mexican places.” Gordon went to college at the University of Colorado

Boulder, graduating with a degree in psychology. As he neared graduation, he knew he wouldn’t take the subject further. “But

I had been working at restaurants throughout college, and

pork tinga: slow braised pork with onions and chiles, served with garnishes and tortillas for “making your own tacos”

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toro continued >> that felt like a good progression.” He enrolled in the Culinary

School of the Rockies, was exposed to a wide assortment of

cuisines, graduated and moved through a series of kitchen jobs, including time in product development and corporate chef

work, a stint at one of Chicago’s three Michelin-star restau-

rants and a spot in the kitchen at Bozeman’s Black Bull Golf

Community.

“Mexican food was always in the background. When I was cooking for myself, that’s what I was cooking.” When Chef

Corey Ceccacci at Black Bull told Gordon that Casey Durham,

Ethan Stokes and Rhett Tschache were planning an authentic

Mexican restaurant for Bozeman, he wanted in. Toro opened in

August 2016.

“The flavors in Mexican food are just so bright and vivid,” he said of his favorite cuisine. “If you look at French cooking, you

have a lot of heavy, with some more heavy and some fat. With

Latin and Hispanic cuisines, you’ve got heavy flavors, bright

sauces and heat, and it’s all coming together. You get a lot more layers and dimensions of flavor.”

Gordon doesn’t figure he’ll tire of the cuisine anytime soon.

“I think I still have a lot of time before I get burned out. Mexico is a big country, with different regions you could spend a lifetime learning.”

Toro opened with an emphasis on authentic Mexican with chef-inspired dishes. They’ve since also focused on local and

organic ingredients, and proteins from local ranches, for a more

Montana-inspired Mexican approach.

The appetizer menu offers a make-it-your-way guacamole.

Diners choose their spice level and added ingredients ranging

from tomatoes and olives to grilled corn and fire-roasted green

chiles. The bison tamales and duck carnitas accent the Montana influence while other offerings – chiles rellenos and chilaquiles,

a pork green chile ladled over tortilla chips and topped with refried beans, three cheeses and a sunny side up egg – land

squarely on authentic Mexican.

For entrees, there’s a selection of tacos, chiles, enchiladas and tortas. A couple of dishes feature barbacoa, the restaurant’s eight-hour slow-braised Angus beef, seasoned with

several types of chiles and other spices. Menu specials include

chicken green mole and a pasilla chile pork chop; la Tumbada,

slow roasted duck carnitas on wonton taco shells with radish-jicama slaw and avocado vinaigrette

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chimichurri carne asada: grilled flank steak with chimichurri sauce, smoked purple potatoes, chorizo hash and seasonal veggies

toro continued >> a Mexican version of paella with seafood, house-made chorizo and delicately spiced Spanish Bomba rice; and a lamb shank

of local Montana lamb braised with adobo spices for six hours,

then covered in a toasted almond sauce and grated cotija cheese.

Gordon and the Toro staff get creative with the daily specials, among them a lobster stuffed avocado with citrus-corn salsa.

“Lobster’s not something you think of as being traditional

Mexican, but we make it a little more so,” he said. “We’ve also

got a mussels dish with house-made chorizo, Corona beer, a bit

of pasilla chile sauce and a slice of cornbread with a pound of

mussels that’s popular.”

If you want a more adventuresome dining choice, he recommends the daily specials. “We take a lot of pride in them, and

we put a lot of work into them,” he said. Some sell so well that

they make their way onto the regular menu.

fried ice cream: dulce de leche and mexican chocolate ice cream, caramel and chocolate sauce and chocolate lattice

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toro continued >> The staff prides itself on being a from-scratch kitchen. Only a few things, including breads, a couple of cheeses and the tor-

tillas, are purchased pre-made. “We’re playing with making our

own tortillas,” Gordon said. “The moles, absolutely we make

them. They’re fairly labor intensive, and the tamales are a huge

project around here.”

www.NeptunesBrewery.com

119 North L St. Livingston

406.222.7837

The chef enjoys trying new chiles, one of his favorite spices.

“Every time you get a new one, there’s a learning curve to it. You wonder what it’s going to do, and what it’s going to taste like

after it sits overnight. Will it go nuclear hot? We’ve always got

five or six different types of chiles on any given day, anchos, pasillas, guajillos.”

Gordon relishes the challenge of mixing Montana ingre-

dients with authentic Mexican cuisine, and meets it with the

knowledge and techniques he’s developed working 19 years in

other people’s kitchens. “If one of the suppliers has something a little different and really nice in stock, we will look at that and

think how are we going to turn that, which is not associated

with traditional Mexican food, into something that feels like

traditional Mexican food.

“Every dish that I’m going to put out, someone has done in

some way before. When I’m looking to do something different,

I’ll look at several different ways other people have done

something and come up with my own way out of that. Maybe someone is roasting the meat first, and I like that aspect, I’ll

add and subtract, both ingredients and techniques.”

One of his go-to techniques is braising. “You can get a lot

more flavor cooking something for a long time. Tough cuts of

meat, when they break down release a lot of flavor. It’s a matter

of cooking low and slow for long enough,” said the fan of Harold McGee’s food chemistry tome, “On Food and Cooking.”

Gordon knows he’s been fortunate to work with chefs who gave him opportunities to try new things and fail. “If it didn’t

work perfectly, we’d eat it as employees. It’s that freedom that

led me to where I am now with my cooking, the ability to draw

Featuring Up to 10 Craft Brews Delicious Beer-Centric Menu Full Fresh Sushi Menu Outdoor Patio Seating

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2017 SPRING DINING UNDER THE BIG SK Y

on those fundamentals and think creatively going forward.”

At the end of the day, he said, “I love for people to walk out

of here having tried something a little different from what they

usually do and thinking, ‘Man, that was spectacular.’ We sell ta-

cos and fajitas and chiles rellenos all day. But if somebody gets the lamb shank with almond mole and walks away thinking,

‘That was really good lamb and I never would have thought of ordering that at a Mexican restaurant, that’s cool.”


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The Best Burgers & Shakes in Bozeman! 815 West College

38

Phone: 406-404-1599

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www.theuburgersshakes.com

1621885

Open for Lunch and Dinner. Take Out Available.


13 Varieties of Pasta

No Copy Cats! Join us on our outdoor “Catio”!

Made Fresh Daily

New Mimosas! Tabby Cat, Starburst, & Cutie Pie Awesome Breakfast and Great Daily Lunch Specials!

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Cuisine by Chef Taylor Caracciolo

Locally Family Owned and Operated.

90 W. Madison Ave. • Belgrade

388-2724

Breakfast: Monday – Friday 7:00am – 2:30pm Saturday – Sunday 7:00am – 2:00pm Lunch: Monday – Friday 11:00am - 2:30pm 23 N. Tracy • Downtown Bozeman 587-8844 • Cateyecafe.com 2017 SPRING DINING UNDER THE BIG SK Y

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ROCKY MOUNTAIN SEAFOOD & ASIAN GOODS

Seafood Store's Hallmark Is Freshness & Quality Brad Cline, owner of Rocky Mountain Seafood and

Asian Goods, 1940 W. Main St., knows the outside of his business isn’t much to look at. He also knows

some customers wonder why he doesn’t put more fish in

his display case.

“I’m not into showing off,” said the retail fish shop

owner. “I’m into selling the best, freshest fish I can at the best price. You’ll be getting the best bang for your buck,

not paying me to pretty up the building," which he does not own.

Cline bought the business in 2005 – he worked in a fish market in college – and has built it up signifi-

cantly. Local restaurants are 80 percent of his clientele.

less expensive but meat-loaded pieces. Those big crab legs

are mainly for show too, Cline advised bargain shoppers.

“Get the pieces.”

For many home cooks, the perplexing part about fish is fixing it. Cline has a foolproof method for

grilling it. First, start with a clean grill. Get it piping hot and oil it. “Next, oil the fish really well on both

sides. Season it, and you’re ready to go. It’s a bam-bam

process, so don’t walk away from the grill. It only takes

five to 10 minutes total.

“Start the salmon with the flesh side down. Don’t

move it around a bunch. You want to get a good charred grill thing going on the flesh side. Cook it for a couple

He flies in whole fresh fish for them and cuts it to order

minutes, so it’s medium rare. That’s best. Then flip the

in refrigerators.

juices from dripping off. The fish is done when it’s turned

immediately. The rest, and the other whole fish go on ice

“Your time clock starts running as soon as you cut a fresh fish,” Cline said. “Some people will ask me

skin side on the grill. The skin acts as a barrier to keep the

a lighter shade of pink or red. If you’re cooking halibut, it

goes from kind of clear to white or opaque.

why my fish isn’t piled high like in other stores. But

“If anything, undercook it. If you get it inside and

stay fresh on the bone in the back? It only takes a few

seconds. You are going to ruin fish, and shellfish too, if

Rocky Mountain Seafood is open to the public Mon-

Lots of Bozeman seafood fans like an Asian flavor, or

why should I let it deteriorate in the case when it can

minutes to cut it for you.”

day through Saturday from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. If shoppers don’t see what they want in the case, a check of the

chalkboard behind it clues them in to the delights on ice.

The list is long, usually Alaskan halibut, farm-raised New Zealand King Salmon (and sockeye, silver and coho in

season), sushi grade yellowfin ahi, snapper, Dover sole and

you think you took it off too soon, microwave it for 30 you overcook it.”

they enjoy rolling their own sushi. When that trend came

on, Cline the fish seller went with what Cline the fish

eater prefers: the best brands he can find, mainly Asian.

He has several shelves stocked with Mae Ploy curries, Yamasa and Pearl River Bridge soys, Caravelle fish sauces,

Kong Yen Black and Marukan vinegars.

Arctic char, plus live lobsters, Prince Edward Island mus-

Other products he buys in bulk, including nori

The store carries shipped-frozen options too, including

ginger, wasabi paste, pot stickers, fish eggs and panko

sels, sea scallops, Little Neck clams, oysters and shrimp.

wraps, Kuhuko Rose sushi rice, seaweed salad, pickled

Chilean sea bass, grouper, tuna steaks, orange roughy,

crumbs. He breaks them down into more affordable

mahi-mahi, marlin, monkfish, smelt, wahoo, sole, tilapia,

Rocky Mountain Seafood and Asian Goods is a snap.

haddock, snapper, a couple kinds of trout, walleye, cod, scallops and crab – Alaska King, snow and stone, plus

packages for home cooks, so landing a great meal at

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Feeding your needs since 1939

THE STOCKYARD CAFE Fin

FT

Di

1018 E Griffin Dr (by Story Mill Silo) • Bozeman, MT •

406.539.1341

Summer Hours: Thurs-Sunday • 7am - 1pm

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Check us out on Facebook!

T!

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BB


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THE SPICE & TEA EXCHANGE Creating a More Flavorful Life One Spice at a Time When Karen Marshall and her husband, Joel,

Actually, they ask questions and listen, and then

Houston, decided to go into a new business together,

you from one side of the shop to the other – both are

long-time marrieds who long had separate careers in

they chose a new home for it too. They and The Spice

& Tea Exchange, 18 E. Main St., landed in Bozeman in June 2016. By the end of the year, they’d opened a second shop in Big Sky.

great fun begins. Karen or a team member will take lined with shelves containing jars and jars of spices

– and into the kiosks in the middle, where new or sea-

sonal selections are displayed. They’ll open the jars, let

you sniff and taste, then collect your favorites from the

Foodies of all ages are their customers, Karen said.

sugars, teas, spices, salts and peppers to put together

find more than 250 reasons to stay. The Spice & Tea

Perhaps you don’t know how to cook much? Not a

hand-mixed Custom Blends, plus salts from around

is a phenomenal Italian spice blend people really love –

Once they poke their noses inside the door, they

Exchange sells some 30 exotic teas, 140 spices and 80 the world and naturally flavored sugars.

If your latest journey into Middle Eastern cooking

your own mix. They’ll even keep it on record for you.

problem. “Select one of our Custom Blends – Tuscany sprinkle it on your chicken at home, grill it and it will turn out amazing,” Karen said.

has you hunting for zahtar, start at The Spice & Tea

And if you do know how to cook? Visit the shop’s

Custom Blend or craft one of your own. Looking for

download a recipe or three to add variety to your

paprika, three kinds of cinnamon, more than a dozen

appetizers, side dishes, main dishes, soups, sweets, dips

en peppers. Want to change up your homemade san-

Karen is an enthusiastic guide in this spicy, sweet

either. Karen has suggestions and how-to’s. Or concoct

educating people. I love sharing recipes. I love being

one-of-a-kind.

that to totally change the taste. You don’t have to be

Exchange, where you can easily pick up their Zahtar

a variation on a specific spice? You’ll find six kinds of

salts (Pinot Noir or Chile Lime) and another half-doz-

gria or favorite cookies? Try infusing a flavored tea into an individual spice blend to make your grilled meats

“We ask questions about what you like, listen and direct,” she said.

website – www.spiceandtea.com/bozeman -- and

repertoire. The categories include beverages, cocktails,

and sauces.

world. “The fun of the store is that it is fun. I love

able to tell people it’s as simple as adding this or

this amazing chef or cook to know how to feed your

family well.”

matcha sea salt, garden mirepoix sea salt, pink peppercorns, cardamom green pods, lavender flower, earl grey crème tea, peach turmeric tea 2017 SPRING DINING UNDER THE BIG SK Y

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The harmony between ingredients and taste is what sets Thai food apart from other Asian cuisines

Two Locations

Offering the most authentic flavors of Thailand

STONERIDGE SQUARE 2051 W. Oak Street DOWNTOWN BOZEMAN 140 E. Main Street OPEN Mon–Thur 11 am–9pm ∙ Fri 11 am–10 pm Sat 11 am–9pm ∙ Sun 12pm–8pm www.ricebozeman.com

(406) 404-1766 (406) 404-1196

A Montana Tradition for 40 Years! Take-ouT deli & GifT Shop feaTurinG our homemade meaTS, SaladS, deSSerTS & SoupS

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Buffalo, Beef & Elk Sausage • Snack Sticks • Jerky Buffalo Burger and Steaks • Bratwurst Bacon • Beer and Wine H u ck l e b e r r y Favo r i te s a n d M o n ta n a T h e m e d G i f t B oxe s !

>>> On the way tO the airpOrt 46

Open 7 days a week // Mon - Fri 6:30am – 7pm // Sat 8am - 7pm // Sunday 9am - 5pm 406.388.4687 or 1.800.752.1029 // 6410 Jackrabbit Lane Belgrade // www.chaletmarket.com

2017 SPRING DINING UNDER THE BIG SK Y


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I-HO'S KOREAN GRILL BY H A N N A H OV E R TO N

If you bring 12 empty mason jars to I-Ho’s Korean

“Korean food has lots of garlic, lots of ginger, and lots

kim-chi free. This traditional Korean side dish, consisting

community,” she said. “I am very grateful to the community

Grill, she will give you one jar of her coveted homemade

mostly of fermented cabbage, is loaded with probiotics and zesty in flavor. I-Ho makes and bottles it in her

of vegetables. The food is good and healthy, and it fits the for all of the support.”

restaurant and sells it through five grocery stores in the

Gallatin Valley, including Town and Country, the Com-

munity Food Co-op and Rosauers.

I-Ho, who reopened her restaurant at a new Bozeman location on W. Main Street in December, serves several

authentic and delicious dishes. There’s the Hae-Mul-Soon-

Du-Boo, or Hangover Soup, loaded with mussels and pork and topped with a fried egg. The Sizzling Bi-Bim-Bob is

a local favorite with seasoned veggies, bean paste, egg and

choice of protein.

The owner-chef is excited to announce that she now serves local Montana beef, and the Gal-Bi-Bob, or

Korean barbecued short ribs, are sure to be a huge hit

this summer. “We also have gluten free soy sauce, which

people love,” she said.

Originally from South Korea, I-Ho has successfully operated her restaurant for nearly two decades. That’s saying

something in a town where the typical new eatery lasts just two to three years.

Her new location isn’t the most visible; it’s in a small,

set-back building just east of CenturyLink and the Galla-

tin Valley Mall on the north side of Main Street. Still, this

hidden gem continues to bring in customers from all over

the world. Each summer, when Yellowstone National Park

is bursting with visitors, hundreds of Korean tourists make the drive from the park to her door to get a taste of home.

She credits her success to the support of the Montana

State University community and the healthy lifestyle so

many Bozemanites embrace.

sizzling bi-bim-bob

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1619417

1621888

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2017 SPRING DINING UNDER THE BIG SK Y

Photos by Studio MacLeod


Photos by Studio MacLeod

GHOST TOWN COFFEE BY H A N N A H OV E R TO N

For more than 11 years, Ghost Town Coffee Roast-

of coffee long before the coffee shop opened. For years,

grocery stores and offices throughout Montana and beyond.

all wholesale customers intending to serve its coffee to go

take pride in sourcing only specialty grade coffee that is

Town also sells and repairs coffee equipment for businesses

high levels of agricultural responsibility.

The new coffee shop owners are excited about what

off Bridger Canyon Drive, where they finally have the

Coffee Roasters intends to fully embrace the cold coffee

business. From the beginning, they’ve wanted Ghost Town

“We’re working on a full walk-in refrigerator with a

ers has offered coffee and related goods to coffee shops,

Co-owners Chad Kimm and his wife, Clarissa Englehart, purchased with fair and equitable trade and grown with This spring, they relocated to 104 Bridger Center Dr., space to complete the vision they’ve always had for their

Coffee Roasters to be a full-service coffee company where

quality coffee, coffee equipment, education and associated products are combined with expert preparation and cus-

tomer service. The introduction of the café space allows for that circle to be complete.

“We feel strongly about having the coffee shop. The

he’s instructed others how to do it. Ghost Town requires through the company’s barista training program. Ghost throughout Montana.

summer will bring to their business overall. Ghost Town trend at the shop.

tap line. We will have three or four cold-coffee options on tap, including the nitro coffee, available throughout the

summer,” he said.

Owning their own coffee roasting business has been

what Kimm calls a labor of love and passion. With the new

space, he’s hoping to host educational coffee events and

quality of customer service and expert coffee preparation

continue collaborating with additional local companies. “At

Kimm mastered the ins and outs of making a good cup

and ready,” he said.

plays a huge role in experiencing the product,” he said.

this point, we’re ready to get the word out. We are open

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RESTAURANT INDEX BLACKSMITH ITALIAN

290 W. Kagy Blvd., next to SOLA 406-577-2585; blacksmithitalian.com Lunch: 11:30 am-2 pm Tuesday-Friday Dinner: 5 pm-Close Monday-Saturday

CHALET MARKET

6410 Jackrabbit Lane, Belgrade 406-388-4687; chaletmarket.com Hours: 6:30 am-7 pm Monday-Friday; 8 am-7 pm Saturday; 9 am-5 pm, Sunday

GHOST TOWN COFFEE ROASTERS

104 Bridger Center Dr., off Bridger Canyon Drive 406-586-0777; www.ghosttowncoffee.com Retail Hours: 7 am-4 pm Monday- Friday; 7 am-2 pm Saturday and Sunday

I-HO’S KOREAN GRILL

2631 W. Main St., east of CenturyLink Bldg & Gallatin Valley Mall 406-404-1653; www.ihoskoreangrill.com Hours: 11 am-9 pm Monday-Saturday; 11 am-3 pm Sunday

JAM FUSION CAFÉ

ROCKY MOUNTAIN SEAFOOD AND ASIAN GOODS 1940 W. Main St., next to Burger King 406-586-4930; www.rockymountainseafoods.com Hours: 10 am-6 pm, Monday-Saturday

SPICE & TEA EXCHANGE OF BOZEMAN

25 W. Main St. 406-585-1761; jamonmain.com Breakfast: 7 am-3:30 pm every day Lunch: 11 am-3:30 pm Monday-Friday

18 E. Main St. 406-219-2222; www.spiceandtea.com/bozeman Hours: 10 am-6 pm, Monday-Friday; 10 am-7 pm, Saturday; 10 am-5 pm Sunday

POMPEY’S GRILL, SACAJAWEA HOTEL

SWEET PEAKS ICE CREAM

5 N. Main St., Three Forks 406-285-6515; sacajaweahotel.com Hours: 4:30 pm-9 pm Wednesday-Saturday 4 pm-9 pm Sunday

TORO

211 E. Main St. 406-577-2363; www.torobozeman.com Hours: 4 pm-Close Monday-Sunday

628 W. Main St., at 7th Avenue 406-219-3017 www.sweetpeaksicecream.com Spring Hours: Noon-9:30 pm Sunday-Thursday; Noon-10 pm Friday-Saturday

708 N Rouse Ave | un-knotted.com | 763-6881 54

2017 SPRING DINING UNDER THE BIG SK Y

1616265

• Breakfast • Lunch • Catering • Event Space


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