Devour December, 2022

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simply damn GOOD FOOD

Aperitivo

A century-old is trendy again

Various tried and true drinks have withstood the test of time. Hosts may want to offer these traditional favorites at special occasions where alcohol will be served, especially if the beverages are once again trending in the right direction.

Although Aperol has been a popular product across Italy since its inception in 1919, it is enjoying newfound fame more than 100 years later. By 1950, the Aperol Spritz became the drink du jour of movers and shakers, and in recent years has enjoyed a resurgence of that popularity. Aperol does for orange what limoncello has done for lemons. It has a zesty orange flavor with herbal notes and a touch of vanilla. Lightly alcoholic, an Aperol Spritz is refreshing and suitable for most occasions. Perhaps the biggest feather in the cap of an Aperol Spritz is that it can be paired with a variety of small bites,

making it a very host-friendly cocktail.

Enjoy this classic “Aperol Spritz,” courtesy of Aperol, at your next gathering.

APEROL SPRITZ

Serves 1 3 parts Prosecco 2 parts Aperol 1 splash of soda Orange slice for garnish

In a stemmed balloon glass full of ice, pour the Prosecco, followed by the Aperol, and then add the splash of soda. Garnish with an orange slice.

STUFFED

By Jennifer Verzuh

Crepes & Wa es

As a self-described “horrible cook” who avoids the kitchen, Westen Houle didn’t expect he’d wind up working in the restaurant industry.

“If you would have asked me 10, 20 years ago if I would ever own a restaurant, I would say probably not,” he said.

But with the support and help of his wife Ann (who is a “fantastic cook”), they decided to look for a new business venture after his military career. The couple came to Bozeman and bought Stuffed Crepes & Waffles, which initially opened in 2017, from its original creator in 2019.

“We didn’t specifically have crepes and waffles in mind, but when it came available we didn’t hesitate to jump all over,” Houle said. “I’m glad we did it, because it’s a super cool, all ages [spot].”

Recently the restaurant has seen growth in both their in-person traffic and delivery services, leading to them opening a second location in the city’s Cannery District earlier this year.

“It was born out of a need to expand our delivery services and hopefully get more people [who are] avoiding downtown,” the restaurant’s director of operations Keri Lander said.

As a small business themselves, Stuffed Crepes & Waffles has made it a priority to cultivate community partnerships whenever possible.

“We want to lift up fellow small businesses and support local,” Lander said. “Supporting small businesses and sustainability are really important objectives for our [...] philosophy.”

The fast-casual restaurant currently sources ingredients from Gallatin Valley businesses Ghost Town Coffee Roasters, Hot Mama’s Salsa, Gluten-Free Prairie and Bequet Caramel for their coffee drinks, waffles and sweet, savory and monthly specialty crepes.

“It is very important to us to always be giving back to the community,” Houle said. “[And] we honestly are always open to more opportunities. We would definitely be interested in doing more activities and partnering to better help the community that has been very beneficial and helpful to us.”

Lander says though they hope to soon expand to other locations in Montana as well beyond Bozeman.

“We have plans to continue to grow our company, and we have plans to offer this delicious product in many other places.”

Potatoes and cauliflower in a NEW WAY

Certain items are staples of the Thanksgiving dinner table. For example, mashed potatoes, candied yams and stuffing are Thanksgiving stalwarts. Pumpkin and apple pies help wrap up the festivities.

Thanksgiving hosts and hostesses interested in injecting more variety into their Thanksgiving offerings may want to consider a few unique side dishes to complement their turkey dinners. Sides that borrow from familiar flavors may fit seamlessly into the holiday feast and add spark to the meal. This recipe for “Gnocchi with Roasted Cauliflower” from “Real Simple Dinner Tonight: Done!” (Time Home Entertainment) from the editors of Real Simple is rooted in popular ingredients synonymous with Thanksgiving. Gnocchi is a chewy and filling pasta made from potato — a holiday standard, while cauliflower is a mild, versatile vegetable that absorbs the spices and flavors of other ingredients. Putting these two ingredients together allows holiday hosts to provide a new side with some familiar flavors at this year’s Thanksgiving dinner.

GNOCCHI WITH ROASTED CAULIFLOWER Serves 4 (as a main course)

1 small head cauliflower, cut into small florets

1⁄4 cup fresh sage leaves

3 tablespoons olive oil Kosher salt and black pepper

1 pound gnocchi (fresh or frozen)

1⁄4 cup grated Parmesan

Heat oven to 400 F. On a rimmed baking sheet, toss the cauliflower and sage with the oil, 1⁄2 teaspoon salt, and 1⁄4 teaspoon pepper. Roast, tossing once, until the cauliflower is golden brown and tender, 25 to 30 minutes.

Fifteen minutes before the cauliflower is finished, cook the gnocchi according to the package directions. Divide the gnocchi among bowls and top with the cauliflower and Parmesan.

Tip: Cauliflower florets are easier to separate if you remove the core first. Place the head stem-side up. Using a paring knife, cut around the core at an angle, creating a cone-shaped piece, then lift it out. If the head is very large, halve it first through the core.

Party How to throw a last-minute dinner

Do you feel like having a party? A spur-of-the-moment desire to host friends or family is not uncommon. Though it may be ideal to give yourself a few days to plan a dinner party and assemble what’s needed to be your best host, sometimes inspiration strikes and compels people to throw last-minute dinner parties.

In such instances, these tips for putting together a feast on the fly can be especially valuable.

• Keep it simple. Build your menu around your own specialty, ideally one that is easy to prepare. Don’t try out that fancy new cookbook recipe right now. Single-pot casseroles or pasta dishes whip up in a flash and can feed a crowd.

• Stock essentials at home. It’s easier to invite people over at the last minute if you don’t have to shop for supplies. Keep a running inventory of foods that can be brought out at a moment’s notice, such as items that may go on a charcuterie platter. Olives, block cheeses, crackers, salad fixings, cured meats, and fresh vegetables can be arranged in a heartbeat. With a can of chick peas, some garlic, lemon juice, and parsley at the ready, you can quickly create a homemade hummus, too.

• Consider a potluck. Guests may want to help out if they are invited over on short notice. A potluck is a perfect way to fill a table with food with minimal effort, as everyone contributes a little something.

• Clean the visible rooms. There likely won’t be time to clean your entire home before an impromptu party. Therefore, focus on the kitchen, dining area and guest bathroom. Gather errant items from around the house and store in a bedroom behind closed doors. Close doors on other spaces that are offlimits during the party.

• Get the kids involved. If you have children, give them jobs to help out. They can set tables, fill ice cube trays or run the vacuum over high-traffic areas. Removing some tasks from your to-do list can free your time for other needs.

• Scour your home. Create interesting place settings or a festive table with items you already have on hand. Consider using food as functional decor on a table. A bowl of lemons makes an eye-catching centerpiece.

Make last-minute dinner parties happen with a few tricks of the trade.

Q&A with Blacksmith Itali HEAD CHEF

and my father were looking for a restaurant to do together for a couple years. I was in Portland or and he was in the Oakland, California area. I had a food truck and was doing pastries the whole time [I was there].

So what brought us to Bozeman was Montana. We love the outdoors... [and] it was one of the best towns to start a business in [Montana] at the time.

Q: Blacksmith specializes in Italian cuisine. Why were you drawn to preparing this type of food as a chef?

A: I grew up in an Italian community in Rochester, New York. As the story goes for Blacksmith, my great-grandfather Stefano was a blacksmith in italy… [who] moved up to Rochester and worked as the city blacksmith.

Cory Dragone Partner/Head Chef

Cory Dragone has worked in the restaurant industry for years as a sous chef, head chef, pastry chef and food truck owner across. He’s made Bozeman his home though, and brought his love of food with him. Alongside his father, Dragone opened Blacksmith Italian, which recently celebrated its ninth anniversary. Head chef and partner Dragone spoke with the Chronicle to discuss his restaurant’s familial roots, the best and worst parts of his job and some of his favorite dishes to prepare for guests.

Q: How long have you worked at Blacksmith Italian and what brought you there?

A: Nine years ago we opened the restaurant in November. And what brought us to Bozeman was me

So we wanted to do Italian food because on my father and mother’s side of the family we could represent our true selves, and I call it American Italian food. We wanted a story that was real. We wanted it about ourselves and that way i was always excited to wake up everyday and create new exp for [our guests]. You never give up when you have a business if it’s something that’s part of you.

Q

: How would you describe your typical work day?

A: Now the typical day starts with waking up and grabbing a coffee on the way to work. Go over the day with the vendors… We check in the deliveries, make sure our product shows up and go over any new items for the prep team that works in the morning.

If there’s a new pasta shape I’ll be there to teach the prep crew how to do that. Then we’re just getting ready for the day throughout the day, making sure the servers show up, answering the phone, creating new specials everyday.

And then we go into dinner service at 5 p.m. And throughout the night I just kind of manage the restaurant. If I have to cook I cook, if I have to polish wine glasses I do, [I’ll also] critique the dishes as they come out from the

Q: What is your favorite and least favorite part of your job?

A: My favorite part of the job is running a business that I’m proud of. Creating delicious food for the community that supports us.

And probably my least favorite part of the job is trying to adapt to the restaurant working class in Bozeman to figure out if we’re gonna have anyone apply to our ads to work here, or if we’re gonna be short staffed. And that’s kind of the hardest part of the job: just trying to find great people to staff your restaurant.

Q: What is your favorite dish to prepare both in the kitchen at the restaurant?

A: That’s the toughest question for me. I wrote the whole menu so I love everything.

I guess my favorite thing that I’m most proud of is our homemade pasta. We make our pasta everyday.

And something that’s simplistic to me that screams what I believe in called anchovies in butter, and that’s on the snack section of the menu, or small bites. So that’s just anchovy, really tasty grass fed better and sourdough bread from On the Rise. So it’s just three ingredients, and a really good way to start your meal. It’s just a classic dish that’s delicious.

Q: What do you hope guests take away from their dining experience at Blacksmith?

A: I hope that they understand we’re a small business. [We’re] a father and son owned pretty small restaurant that really cares for the product. The[re is a large] amount of love put in it, and when we share that with them [we hope that] they can taste it. They can taste that love in the small setting that we have.

Blacksmith Italian is located at 290 W Kagy Blvd suite c, Bozeman, MT 59715. They are open for dinner Tuesdays through Saturdays from 5 to 9 p.m.

Please note that responses have been edited and condensed.

Wines

to pair with your favorite foods

By Jeremiah Dawson, Owner, Vino per Tutti

Wine and the holidays are inseparable… but why is that the case? Is it because a well paired glass of wine really lifts up and compliments those holiday feasts, or when not so deftly prepared makes that dry bite of stuffing and turkey palatable? Is it because a glass of wine, or few, makes that awkward conversation with the in-laws less grinding? Or is it because whenever you seem to find yourselves surrounded by friends and family laughing the night away, wine seems to be the vessel that delivers the side splitting laughs? We say it’s all of the above.

We’re the kind of people that roughly set the menu, buy the wine and then figure out the rest, shopping last minute for all the food items we dreamed up. Here is a list of some of our favorite wines we can’t go without for the holiday season.

SPARKLING WINE : If a true champagne is within the realm of possibility we always reach for a few bottles, and our favorite right now is the Piot Sevillano. For easy, everyday bubbles we love the Gruet Sauvage. Both have the crisp bubbles and subtle richness making the perfect pairing for things like charcuterie boards, salty appetizers, anything gravy and celebrating engagements and other exciting happenings.

LIGHT WHITE : We all have that family member or friend who “only” drinks Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio. There’s nothing wrong with that, but the holidays are a great time to reach for something a bit more fun. Pratsch Gruner Veltliner is our go-to, party pleasing fresh white wine. The high acidity and mineral drive will please both the only Sauv Blanc or Pinot Grigio people, and it has enough depth to not bore you, like some holiday

conversations, while pairing with a whole range of holiday dishes.

Full White : Every group contains a divide of people that either love or hate Chardonnay, so we say just steer clear. Our pick for a rich holiday white is a Côtes du Rhône blend or something in that style. Personally, I go for the Tablas Creek Patelin Blanc, it has the richness and structure to go with the more hearty foods. Added bonus, it’s not Chardonnay, so no one has to argue over hating it or loving it, because we all know not one single reason more is needed for argument during the holidays.

LIGHT RED : Gamay, yep, Gamay! And no, we aren’t talking about Beaujolais Nouveau, though it certainly has its place at the table, but rather a lovely Cru like Brouilly, and for that Chateau Thivin is our first choice. We love Gamay for the soft, easy red

fruits and earthy undertones that make it so food friendly. I’m not the biggest fan of cranberry sauce but I do love a nice Gamay with a soft chill as its replacement. The added benefit of a soft red like Gamay is that you can start drinking before food is ready, but when you really need a glass-- you know the time, when your uncle has you cornered droning on about something or other.

FULL RED : Cabernet Franc comes in for the win on this one. A close second is a lovely Cabernet Sauvignon for that prime rib, but Cabernet Franc, a parent grape of Cab Sauv, takes the lead. The rich fruits, soft spice and layered structure mean we can have it with the green bean casserole, the prime rib, the stuffing and everything in between. We love the Marie de Beauregard Chinon for the earthy depth and deep fruits. It’s like a warm hug from grandma in the glass, perfection!

Whip up

a meal for quick entertaining

Entertaining guests is a labor of love. Much effort goes into preparing a home for the arrival of friends and family, and that includes planning a menu that will accommodate as many people as possible.

Hosts and hostesses who are looking to take some of the work off of their plates can explore recipes that are less labor-intensive. Slow cookers are the unsung heroes of the kitchen. While busy families often use them to prepare weeknight meals, slow cookers also can be used when cooking for crowds. In such instances, they free up time for party hosts to tackle other jobs.

This recipe for “Sweet Southern Slow-Cooker Ham,” courtesy of the National Pork Board and Yummly, utilizes a fully cooked, store-bought ham and some sweet and savory accoutrements. The ham can be served on its own, or be used to create delicious sliders. Since it serves 12, it’s the perfect meal for a crowd.

SWEET SOUTHERN SLOW-COOKER HAM

1 bone-in fully cooked ham (about 51⁄2 pounds)

1 cup apple cider

1⁄2 cup dark brown sugar

1⁄3 cup bourbon (preferably Kentucky)

1⁄4 cup honey

1⁄4 cup Dijon style mustard

4 sprigs fresh thyme

Place the ham in a large slow cooker. Whisk the cider with the brown sugar, bourbon, honey, and mustard. Slowly pour over the ham. Scatter the thyme sprigs into the slow cooker.

Cook on high for 4 hours or on low for 8 hours, or until very tender. Remove ham to rest on a cutting board. Pass the remaining cooking liquid through a fine mesh sieve into a saucepan. Simmer for 10 minutes or until slightly reduced. Cut the ham into chunks or slices. Brush the cut pieces with the cooking liquid before arranging on a platter. Serve warm or at room temperature.

By Gustav Gentaro Dose, Founder, Mountains Walking Brewery

In the beginning of my life in the beer industry, I worked with breweries that pretty much make the same beer every day, year after year. Though I very much admire this simple, yet complicated approach, it didn’t excite me. I wanted to focus on innovation. However, without knowing the deep and rich history of brewing tradition and techniques, there is no ground to stand on.

Today at Mountains Walking Brewery and New Hokkaido Bevco., both of which I founded, we have brewed over 500 different beer styles, many of which

Brew Find your

are original. Today though, I want to focus on one of my favorites: Yamabiko Japanese Rice lager brewed by New Hokkaido.

Hokkaido, the location, looms large in my imagination: jagged mountains, deep snow and pristine forests full of wild animals. The farmers there grow highly prized rice used in making traditional Japanese beer and sake. As a brewer, Hokkaido is close to my heart. And, like any place bounded by wilderness, it also harbors mysteries. When I was a child growing up in Japan, my mother would tell me Japanese fairy tales about supernatural creatures called Yokai. There are dozens, maybe even

hundreds of different kinds of Yokai, spirits who haunt the mountains, forests and oceans of Japan— each with their own purpose of creating either good luck, mischief or harm. As I’ve moved around the world, that sense of Hokkaido and those childhood fairy tales have always traveled with me. And now, living in Bozeman, Montana, I feel these two parts of my imagination have combined to inspire something new. A new adventure in joining flavors from anywhere in the world. A New Hokkaido, of sorts. I’m hoping it just might lead to something really good to drink.

The spirit of New Hokkaido points to the ineffable. The world we have created can feel philosophically materialistic, fundamentally when we break life down to the smallest particles, nothing is stable, or can be explained at all; this to me includes beer and brewing. In life I draw from this unexplainable, inescapable vastness that not only includes me but is me, as we dance together hand in hand, creating our very lives. New Hokkaido and the Yokai are all very real, they are so close, making them impossible to see, with just our eyes. New Hokkaido, to me, is not a solid entity, it is a conscious reality.

Yamabiko Rice Lager is sublime in its simplicity. The beer is bubbly and almost transparent with a fruity and dry Sale-like finish. A truly unique beer, there is nothing like it out there. One of the benefits of brewing so many different styles is that once in a

while you make something just amazing. Like they say in sports, you can’t score if you don’t shoot.

Yamabiko can be the main show but really excels with a food partner, complimenting any type of cuisine. In designing this recipe, we wanted the rice to provide a clean canvas for the hop and yeast flavors to shine. The rice provides different yeast metabolites that are different from malted barley and expressed in the beer in a truly unique way. In our recipe we use rice from Hokkaido and other regions in Japan, as well as puffed rice from Cambodia and local malted rice.

Yamabiko are mythical creatures from the wild mountains of Japan, they look like a cross between a monkey and a dog.

Wait, did you hear that? That mountain echo that took too long. Shout again, now listen, the Yamabiko are answering you, somewhere up on that snowy peak.