Hatch 2017 by Bozeman Daily Chronicle

2017

A Pocket Guide to Flyfishing in Southwest Montana

A S P E C I A L P U B L I C AT I O N O F B I G S K Y P U B L I S H I N G

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2017 MONTANA FISHING REGULATIONS.............................. 5 IDENTIFYING WESTERN MONTANA SPORT FISH................................... 6

JEFFERSON RIVER.......................... 26 MADISON RIVER............................. 28 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK... 30

YELLOWSTONE RIVER................... 14

HIT THE TRAIL................................. 32

BIG HOLE RIVER.............................. 16

ESSENTIAL GEAR........................... 33

MISSOURI RIVER............................ 18

A WORD ON FLIES.......................... 34

GALLATIN RIVER............................. 20

SMALL STREAMS........................... 35

BEAVERHEAD RIVER...................... 22

FISHERMAN’S PARADISE.............. 36

UPPER CLARK FORK RIVER........... 24

FIND A FLY SHOP............................ 38

WRITTEN BY MICHAEL WRIGHT BEN PIERCE

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2017

MONTANA FISHING

REGULATIONS

YOU’RE HERE TO FISH & you’re older than 11, you’ll need a license. Anglers can purchase them at regional offices of Montana Fish, Wildlife and Parks and at various stores around the state – for entire seasons or a couple of days at a time. Montana residents above the age of 12 are required to buy a conservation license ($8) and a fishing license ($10.50 for a season for ages 12-17, those older than 62 and those who are disabled; $5 for two consecutive days, $21 for a season for ages 18-61). Out-of-staters older than 12 are also required to buy a conservation license ($10) and a fishing license ($25 for 2 consecutive days, $56 for 10 consecutive days, $86 for a full season). A special tag is required for paddlefish.

The state’s water bodies are split into three fishing districts: western, central and eastern. Lakes and reservoirs are open year-round in all three; seasons differ for rivers and streams. Rivers and streams are open year-round in the eastern and central districts. In the western district, the season is the third Saturday in May to Nov. 30. Several exceptions to those rules exist. The best way to ensure you’re following all the rules is to pick up a 2017 regulation book. Find them at various stores and FWP’s offices too. The book will also tell you whether the stream you hope to fish requires barbless hooks, what the creel limits are and any other requirements. It’s jampacked with maps and detailed information about the state’s fisheries.

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IDENTIFYING

WESTERN MONTANA

SPORT FISH

OW GOOD A FISHING TRIP is can be measured in a variety of ways. It’s a subjective question. Inches? Pounds? Total number of fish? Pretty scenery? (If you’re measuring a trip by scenery, put this down and go find flies that work.) Or, you could measure a trip by the variety of species you catch. Montana is a big state, with lots of different fish. Bruising brown trout, energetic rainbows, contemplative cutthroat and many more species inhabit our rivers and streams. Some of these fish are natives, who have struggled to compete with the non-natives. Yellowstone and westslope cutthroats have been hybridized by rainbow trout and pushed out of much of their

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native range. The picture is even darker for arctic grayling, which occupy an even smaller fraction of their historical range. Not to mention the bull trout, which is listed as threatened under the Endangered Species Act. But, in part because of restoration work, all of these native fish can be found if you know where to look. There are plenty of rivers and regions where anglers can catch multiple species in a day. This is a reason to bring a camera. It’s important to know what you’re targeting. Knowing the different species can enrich the experience. Here’s a breakdown of the different members of the trout family found in Montana.

NATIVE SPECIES MOUNTAIN WHITEFISH

YELLOWSTONE CUTTHROAT TROUT Yellowstone cutthroat trout are a prized fish for many anglers. Golden in color with the distinctive orange slash under the jaw on both sides, the species once thrived in Yellowstone Lake and the Yellowstone River, with massive runs heading up tributary streams in the spring. But the population has been devastated by the illegal introduction of lake trout into Yellowstone Lake and the stocking of rainbow and brown trout in the Yellowstone and other rivers. LOCATION: Yellowstone cutthroat trout can be found in the Yellowstone River and its tributaries in southwest Montana, and in Yellowstone National Park waters. In addition, numerous mountain lakes across southwestern Montana have been stocked with pure strain Yellowstone cutts. IDENTIFICATION: Yellowstone cutthroat trout average 6-12 inches in length. They have a red or orange slash beneath the jaw on either side, which may be faint on juvenile fish. The Yellowstone cutthroat has medium to large round black spots, which are more widely distributed on their body than on the westslope cutthroat. STATE RECORD: 16 pounds, Red Eagle Lake, William D. Sands, 1955. (Montana has one record for both Yellowstone and westslope cutthroat trout.)

Many trout-seeking anglers despise mountain whitefish, but it is the most widespread of Montanaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s native fish in the western half of the state. In some streams, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hard not to catch whitefish. They come up for dry flies and regularly eat nymphs. But the fish are ultra-sensitive to warm water temperatures. Thousands died in a parasite outbreak on the Yellowstone River in 2016, and anecdotal evidence suggests the populations may be declining. Biologists are conducting studies to assess their health. Location: Mountain whitefish inhabit all the major rivers in southwest Montana and many of the small creeks. The population extends north to the Canadian border and east to the Bighorn River. Identification: Mountain whitefish average 6-12 inches in length. They have large silvery scales, a small mouth with no teeth and no spots on the back. State record: 5.11 pounds, Hauser Reservoir, Walt Goodman, 2007.

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ARCTIC GRAYLING

WESTSLOPE CUTTHROAT TROUT Westslope cutthroat trout donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t hurry. They eat dry flies slowly and boy, are they pretty. They have golden flanks and purple gill plates, and the classic orange slash under the mouth. While they donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t hurry, they will eat almost anything during the summer months. Many anglers rely on attractor patterns, like Royal Wulffs, humpies and stimulators. Like the Yellowstone cutthroat, westslopes have struggled to compete with non-native species in some places, and they have interbred with rainbow trout. LOCATION: Westslope cutts are primarily found on the west side of the Continental Divide. The fish are present in the Bitterroot and Flathead rivers in good numbers. They can also be caught in the upper portions of the Gallatin River, one of the few spots they can be found east of the divide. IDENTIFICATION: Westslope cutthroat trout average 6-16 inches in length, rarely exceeding 18 inches. The westslope has a distinct red or orange slash below the jaw on each side, small irregularly shaped black spots that are sparse on the belly and more densely patterned toward the tail. Telling the difference between westslopes and other cutthroat species can be tough, but the density of spots near the tail and a more greenish color are key differences. STATE RECORD: 16 pounds, Red Eagle Lake, William D. Sands, 1955. (Montana has one record for both Yellowstone and westslope cutthroat trout.) 8

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Arctic grayling used to be everywhere, but pressure from non-native species, habitat loss and changes in stream temperatures and flows has reduced their number. A beautiful fish with a large dorsal fin, it can be found in many mountain lakes and in portions of the upper Big Hole River. Biologists are working to restore the species elsewhere. LOCATION: The Big Hole and its tributaries hold some of the last river-dwelling grayling. Artic grayling have been stocked in many mountain lakes across western Montana and in some streams. IDENTIFICATION: Arctic grayling average 6-12 inches in length. Grayling have large scales, dark spots on the front half of their body and a large, colorful dorsal fin. STATE RECORD: 3.63 pounds, Washtub Lake, Glenn Owens, 2003.

COLUMBIA RIVER REDBAND TROUT Columbia River redband trout are the only native subspecies of rainbow trout in Montana. They are a species of special concern found only in the extreme northwest corner of the state. The heavily spotted fish donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t grow to large sizes, but fight with vigor. LOCATION: Columbia River redband trout are found in Lake Koocanusa, the Kootenai River and its tributaries in northwest Montana. IDENTIFICATION: The Columbia River redband trout average 6-10 inches in length. The species has an orange and red band along the lateral line, and heavily spotted fins, flanks and tail. The redband has a distinct white tip on its fins. STATE RECORD: No record kept.

BULL TROUT Once abundant in western Montana, the bull trout is now protected as a threatened species under the Endangered Species Act. Anglers are not allowed to target the big meat-eating species except in certain places, often by special permission through Fish, Wildlife and Parks. The state operates a regulated and experimental bull trout angling season on Hungry Horse Reservoir, Lake Koocanusa and part of the South Fork of the Flathead River. LOCATION: Bull trout are primarily found in northwest Montana. The only place they can be fished for without special permission from FWP is Swan Lake near Big Fork. IDENTIFICATION: Bull trout average 16-22 inches in length. They have a white leading edge on their fins and a slightly forked tail. They have no black spots on their sides or dorsal fin. Bull trout have red or orange spots on their sides. STATE RECORD: 25.63 pounds, location undisclosed, James Hyer, 1916. Summer 2017 | HATCH

NON-NATIVE SPECIES BROWN TROUT

RAINBOW TROUT Hard fighting and high jumping, rainbow trout are one of the most abundant trout species in Montana. The revered sport fish was introduced in the late 1800s and is now common across the state. They sometimes interbreed with native cutthroat species, a worry for fisheries biologists trying to preserve the natives. LOCATION: Rainbow trout live in rivers, lakes and streams from Fort Peck Reservoir to the Idaho border. IDENTIFICATION: Rainbow trout average 8-16 inches in length. Rainbow trout have a pink or red band along their lateral line, fewer than 12 anal fin rays and a spotted tail fin. STATE RECORD: 33.1 pounds, Kootenai River, Jack G. Housel Jr., 1997. 10

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Aggressive, picky and sometimes huge, brown trout are a favorite for many anglers. Originally from Europe, brown trout were stocked across Montana during the late 1800s and 1900s and have become well-established throughout the state. They are more tolerant of dewatering and other environmental disturbances than other trout species. Many anglers love going after browns with big streamers. LOCATION: Rivers, streams, lakes and reservoirs all over the state harbor brown trout. The species is abundant in the southwest portion of the state, but is absent in the Kootenai River and Flathead River systems in northwest Montana. IDENTIFICATION: Brown trout average 12-16 inches in length. They have golden brown flanks, black or brown spots with light halos, red spots on the sides and a square tail with few or no spots. STATE RECORD: 29 pounds, Wade Lake, E.H.â&#x20AC;&#x153;Peckâ&#x20AC;?Bacon, 1966.

BROOK TROUT Brook trout are a char species introduced to Montana from eastern waters in the late 1800s. The colorful“brookies”are in both rivers and lakes. They are found throughout the western two-thirds of the state, but they aren’t as common as brown and rainbow trout. LOCATION: Brook trout inhabit rivers and creeks west of Fork Peck Reservoir. They can also be found in many high mountain lakes. IDENTIFICATION: Brook trout average 6-12 inches in length. Brook trout have red spots with blue halos, a white leading edge on the fins, a nearly square tail and a marking on the dorsal fin. STATE RECORD: 9.06 pounds, Lower Two Medicine Lake, John R. Cook, 1940.

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GOLDEN TROUT Golden trout are fly anglersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; favorite Californians. Introduced to Montana in 1907, golden trout have been stocked in a few mountain lakes in western and central Montana. The largest concentration of golden trout occurs in the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness. Anglers aiming to catch them should visit in July and August when mountain lakes are accessible. LOCATION: Golden trout are not found in any of Montanaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s major rivers, only in high mountain lakes. IDENTIFICATION: Golden trout average 6-12 inches in length. They have round, black spots on the upper third of their body, 10-12 par marks on the flank and numerous spots on the dorsal fin and tail. STATE RECORD: 5.43 pounds, Cave Lake, Mike Maliki, 2000.

FWP PHOTO

LAKE TROUT Lake trout, or mackinaw, are predatory fish that can grow massive in Montana. While lake trout are treated as a non-native species, they are actually native to some state waters. The fish was illegally introduced into Yellowstone Lake and decimated native Yellowstone cutthroat trout in the park. LOCATION: Lake trout live in deep, cold lakes and reservoirs. They are present in Flathead Lake, Fort Peck Reservoir, Lake Elwell and numerous other lakes across the state. Lake trout caught in Yellowstone Lake in Yellowstone National Park must be killed. IDENTIFICATION: Lake trout average 1420 inches in length. Lake trout have a white leading edge on their fins, markings on their dorsal fin, numerous light spots (none orange or red) and a deeply forked tail fin. STATE RECORD: 42.69 pounds, Flathead Lake, Ruth Barber, 2004. 12

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THE BENT LENS

YELLOWSTONE BY MICHAEL WRIGHT

IG, WILD & UNDAMMED, THE YELLOWSTONE RIVER is naturally complicated. Complexity isn’t bad though. It’s one of the reasons people love the big blue ribbon that snakes through the Paradise Valley. “You’re dealing with something different every single day,” said Matson Rogers, owner of Anglers West in Emigrant. Responding to the conditions is key on the longest undammed river in the Lower 48. If you do it right, you can reap the rewards in the form of muscly browns and rainbows or the sheer beauty of a native Yellowstone cutthroat. The stream begins inside Yellowstone National Park, at its namesake lake. It tumbles over waterfalls as it cuts through the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone and rolls past the gateway town of Gardiner. After it exits Yankee Jim Canyon, it flows on through the pastoral valley and skirts past Livingston, a quirky trout town known as much for fishing as for attracting Hollywood actors and literary luminaries. From there, it runs farther east, finishing its 692-mile journey to the Missouri River in North Dakota.

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YELLOWSTONE QUICK FACTS RIVER MILES: 104 miles from Yellowstone National Park boundary to Big Timber BEST HATCH: Golden stones come off just about the same time as the giant salmonflies and the trout are often more eager to take these slightly smaller bugs. NEAREST CITIES: Gardiner, Livingston, Big Timber

Trout anglers focus more on the first 100 miles or so, especially the section that runs through the Paradise Valley. Running a drift boat there offers quintessential Montana scenery – high peaks, hay fields, the occasional elk herd. Nymph and streamer fishing are popular, and they can be consistent options when bugs aren’t coming off. Dry fly action begins with midges in late winter and early spring, followed by bluewinged olives. Mother’s Day caddis offer another pre-runoff option, along with a helping of March Browns. Runoff turns the river consistently muddy well into June. Once the stream clears, salmonflies arrive, the harbinger for all the summertime hatches. “Once the salmonflies start, we see everything,” Rogers said. Golden stones, yellow sallies and pale morning duns follow. They carry the river into August, and then the terrestrial hatches arrive: hoppers, beetles and

occasionally spruce moths. Fall brings mayflies back, both blue-winged olives and a fall drake. Boat access is good on the Yellowstone, though walking and wading is also a good option. There are several state-owned accesses between the park and Livingston. The Yellowstone River made national headlines in August 2016 when a parasite caused a massive die-off of mountain whitefish. Biologists chalked up the fish kill to near-historic low flows and high water temperatures. The river was closed to fishing for most of a month. The parasite is still in the stream, but it’s hard to say whether the event will repeat itself. Rogers has high hopes it won’t be as drastic as it was in 2016, especially with a good snowpack sitting in the mountains, but he can’t be sure. If you plan on hitting the Yellowstone in late summer, just pay attention to the flows and news about the river. Don’t let fears of a fish kill keep you away. There’s plenty of fun to be had on the Yellowstone.

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BIG HOLE BY MICHAEL WRIGHT

TS IDYLLIC RANCHLANDS GAVE THE BIG HOLE VALLEY its nickname: The Land of 10,000 Haystacks. One roadside sign says the valley is known for,“ abundant hay, fine cattle and horses,” in addition to beautiful scenery and good people. Big orange stoneflies earned the area its fly-fishing fame. Why? Because trout just love gulping down their annual helping of salmonflies. “They just are gluttons,” said Tim Tollett, of Frontier Anglers in Dillon.“They’ll eat and eat until they regurgitate and then they’ll eat some more.” The Big Hole River begins in the Beaverhead Deer Lodge National Forest and cuts a neat ribbon through pastoral ranchland on its way to the town of Wisdom. From there, it winds east, cutting through more valley and then dumping through a canyon between Divide and Melrose. It’s headed for Twin Bridges, where it meets the Beaverhead to form the Jefferson. In places, the water may look off-colored to some anglers. This is normal. Tannins naturally stain the water a tea color. Several trout species live in the Big Hole, including brown, rainbow and brook trout. But the upper portion of the stream is prized

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for its population of fluvial Arctic grayling. Fluvial means river-dwelling, and while at one time these fish occupied much of the upper Missouri River basin, the population has declined significantly. The upper reaches of the Big Hole hold one of the last populations of the beautiful fish. Springtime begins with blue-winged olives and some skwalas, though the skwala action isn’t consistent. Tollett said early season streamer and nymph fishing is great on the Big Hole too. Right after runoff comes the salmonfly hatch. It attracts anglers from all over. The inch-long orange bugs generally emerge on the Big Hole earlier than they do on other streams. It can get crowded this time of year, but don’t be discouraged when you see a bunch of boats launching on the river. “It’s where you put the fly and the pattern that you use,” Tollett said. One of the best times to fish the hatch is early mornings, when salmonflies might be falling off the willow trees along the banks, he added. Golden stoneflies come next, joined by pale morning duns, caddis and the full complement of the drake family – green, brown and gray drakes. The summer season wraps up with beetles and hoppers. Warm weather can take its toll on the stream, and parts of it are often at least partially closed in July and August to give fish a rest when water temperatures get too high. Be sure to check Montana Fish, Wildlife and Parks’ list of fishing restrictions when you’re headed to the Big Hole in summer. Beyond all that, enjoy the scenery. The stream flows through some of the best country Montana has to offer, and you don’t want to miss that.

BIG HOLE QUICK FACTS RIVER MILES: 153 miles from headwaters to Twin Bridges BEST HATCH: The Big Hole’s salmonfly hatch generally occurs earlier than on other big Montana rivers. There are a lot of variables in play, but if you hit the river at the right time the hatch is sure to be memorable. NEAREST CITIES: Butte, Dillon, Twin Bridges

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MISSOURI BY MICHAEL WRIGHT

E’VE ALL BEEN THERE, AND IF YOU HAVEN’T, you will be. Trout heads are poking through the surface, visibly sipping bugs. The right fly is on the end of the line. Each cast seems perfect. The drifts are perfect. But the stubborn trout won’t eat the artificial fly out of the regular lineup. This happens to lots of people on the Missouri River. It happens pretty much every day. It even happens to seasoned veterans like Mark Raisler of Headhunters Fly Shop in Craig, MT. Crazier yet, it’s one of the reasons Raisler has stuck around Craig for 26 years. “There’s still situations I get in that I can’t figure out,” he said. “And that’s good.” The mighty Missouri River is where winter nymphers go when every other river is covered in ice. It’s where some anglers like to swing flies with two-handed spey rods, streamer junkies pound the banks, and the hair of dry fly anglers turns gray. The river begins near the town of Three Forks, at the confluence of the Gallatin, Madison and Jefferson rivers. The most popular water begins below Holter Dam, about 40 miles north of Helena.

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Below Holter Dam, the water is smooth and flat, like a gigantic spring creek. Raisler said about two-thirds of the popular water on the Missouri is like that. The one exception is the Canyon section between Craig and Cascade. There, the water has more riffles and runs more like a freestone stream. “It’s actually a little more interesting,” Raisler said. While rowing a drift boat is a great way to cover a lot of water, the river’s slow flows and shallowness make for easy wading. Wade fishermen don’t need to cover a whole lot of water to be successful. Biologists estimate there are 4,000 fish per mile in the river near Craig. And almost none of them are small. Trout pushing 18 or 20 inches are the norm. The bug hatches are prolific. They begin with a midge hatch in late winter and early spring, followed by a fat helping of blue-winged olives in April and May. Caddis come next, followed by what some regard as the toughest hatch to fish on the river – the pale morning duns. “That is one of the hatches that not a single person has figured out,” Raisler said. After the PMDs, terrestrials and tricos arrive. Fall brings another helping of bluewinged olives and some October caddis. All life cycles of these flies are important. Sometimes, if a fish won’t take an adult mayfly, the solution is merely switching to a cripple or an emerger. Another of the joys of the Missouri is that the season is never really over. When other rivers freeze over, the Missouri runs free, so winter nymphing is a viable option with scud and sow bug patterns. And near Headhunters Fly Shop, Joe’s Bar is always ready to pour a beer. “Craig never closes,” Raisler said.

MISSOURI QUICK FACTS RIVER MILES: 145 miles from headwaters to Cascade BEST HATCH: While diminutive in stature, the Missouri’s trico hatches can be staggering. If long leaders, fine tippets and technical fishing are your thing, this lateseason hatch is for you. NEAREST CITIES: Three Forks, Helena, Great Falls

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GALLATIN BY MICHAEL WRIGHT

HEY DON’T GIVE ACADEMY AWARDS TO RIVERS, but if they did, the Gallatin River might have won one 25 years ago. Along with Brad Pitt, the river starred in the 1992 film“A River Runs Through It”as a stand-in for western Montana’s Blackfoot River. Its scenery looks familiar to die-hard fans of the film, and guides can show you where some of the famous scenes were filmed, but its stardom isn’t its only value. There are fish there, it’s easy to get to, and those fish aren’t as picky as some on other streams. “It’s a great attractor dry fly river,”said Steven Rendle, a manager and guide at Fins and Feathers Fly Shop in Four Corners. Beginning in the high country of Yellowstone National Park, its upper reaches braid through mountain meadows. Up there, anglers can burn a day or two chasing trout in some of the wildest country around. If you decide to fish the park section of the Gallatin, don’t forget to purchase a park fishing license. Just north of the park border, the river is joined by the Taylor Fork, one of its main tributaries and one of its most frequent sources of mud. In the summertime, big rainstorms can turn the river dirty below there, so be sure to know how the weather has been before heading that way.

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When that happens, the water is usually clear above the Taylor Fork, but the upper section can get crowded. Past Big Sky, the stream rumbles through the Gallatin Canyon. This stretch is popular with kayakers and whitewater rafters. Fishing from a boat on the Gallatin is not permitted, but ample access is offered by turnouts along U.S. Highway 191. And while whitewater is a major attraction on this section, there’s plenty of good trout habitat. After it leaves the canyon, the river cuts a neat ribbon through the western part of the Gallatin Valley, flanked by cottonwood trees and farmland. There are a few fishing accesses along the way, and the valley stretch is popular among locals for quick fishing trips. Anglers fish the stream year-round, and it is one of the most popular spots for winter nymphing.“The nymphing is always good,”Rendle said. Dry fly action is great once the weather warms up. Early season hatches on the Gallatin aren’t as prolific as on other streams, but they are there. Midges and baetis begin the year, followed by March browns, Mother’s Day caddis and green drakes. Early in the season the river also sees some skwalas, a big green stonefly that brings trout to the surface with violent, splashy rises. After runoff comes a helping of summer stoneflies, including goldens, salmonflies and yellow sallies. Pale morning duns and caddis are also reliable throughout the season. Spruce moths arrive in July, and fall mayflies round out the year. Attractor fishing, though, will do the trick all summer long. Flies like Chubby Chernobyls and Royal Wulffs are known to catch fish consistently. That’s one of the joys of the Gallatin - if you can’t find fish, throw an attractor where you think they should be. More often than not, the river will provide.

GALLATIN QUICK FACTS RIVER MILES: 89 miles from Yellowstone National Park boundary to Three Forks BEST HATCH: If you happen to catch it, the green drake hatch in late June and July is a blast. These large mayflies don’t come off in huge numbers, but those that do are a favorite of the trout. NEAREST CITIES: West Yellowstone, Big Sky, Bozeman

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BEAVERHEAD BY MICHAEL WRIGHT

MAGINE A CLOUDY FALL DAY. YOU’RE ON THE Beaverhead, the water’s clear, fish are poking their noses through the surface. You see two of them clearly, close to you, and you know you can cast to them. You just have to be sure you’ve tied on the right fly, and during that time of year on that river, that’s not always the easiest thing to do. “Those fish can be sitting two feet from each other,” said Tim Tollett, of Frontier Anglers in Dillon. “And Fish A will be feeding on trico spinners and Fish B could be feeding on blue-winged olive emergers.” Big, discerning fish and a smorgasboard of bugs – that’s what you’ll find if you hit the Beaverhead right. The fish won’t be easy to catch, however, and on some days when more than one hatch is coming off, you may have a tough time finding just the right bug. The Beaverhead begins at Clark Canyon Dam, fed by the reservoir the dam holds behind it. It winds toward the town of Dillon before joining the Big Hole River at Twin Bridges to form the Jefferson. It’s a year-round haunt for locals and a seasonal destination for traveling anglers. It’s well-known for good streamer fishing, but because it’s a tailwater stream, bug hatches are relatively consistent

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BEAVERHEAD QUICK FACTS RIVER MILES: 69 miles from Clark Canyon Reservoir to Twin Bridges BEST HATCH: When hay season hits, head to the Beaverhead to fish hoppers. These late-summer insects bring Beaverhead trout to a boil. NEAREST CITIES: Dillon, Twin Bridges

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once they start coming off. Tollett said the dry fly action begins with blue-winged olives, which typically arrive in March and stick around until mid-May. In the middle of all that, the Mother’s Day caddis hatch arrives. The river will swell a little bit into early to mid-June, but the nymph game will stay consistent. “That time of year it’s that bottom water column that tends to have the most insect life,” Tollett said. Later in June, the pale morning duns arrive. Yellow sallies and caddis will be on the menu through the summer too, and there will be days when an angler can fish three separate dry fly hatches. “Some days you can have a morning of excellent PMD fishing to an afternoon of fishing little yellow sallies and then evening caddis,” Tollett said.“Those three will really carry the season into August.” October caddis arrive in September, joined by a diverse menu of small mayflies - tricos, psuedos, small blue-winged olives. In recent years, the Beaverhead has been plagued by turbidity issues in September. Gray silt has been flowing out of the reservoir, giving the stream an odd color. Tollett said the fishing is fine this time of year, but people best visit a local shop to get the latest information on techniques and flies to get the job done. “Stop by the shop, get the right bugs and have an open mind,” he said.“And just go up there and look around.”

UPPER CLARK FORK BY MICHAEL WRIGHT

ONTANA’S MINING HISTORY IS AT THE headwaters of the Clark Fork River and, for a while, it was dumped into that river. Tailings, heavy metals. Waste went into the river and flowed on down toward Missoula. That’s all in the past. Now, the upper portions of the stream are part of a massive federal cleanup, and the water has regained the propensity to produce big, healthy trout. But you have to know where to look. “The first mile has the most fish,” said Mike Marcum, one of the owners of the Stonefly Fly Shop in Butte. The stream begins near the Montana town of Warm Springs, marked by a series of ponds and a wildlife management area. Marcum isn’t joking about there being a bunch of fish there – some estimates are more than 1,000 fish per mile. The Clark Fork starts narrow, winding through the valley in tight curves. The striking peaks of the Flint Creek Range rise in the west,

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and foothills lead to the Highland Range in the east. It grows wider as it rushes west toward Lake Pend Oreille in the Idaho Panhandle, but these upper sections are where many anglers focus their time. You can leave the boat in the garage if you’re headed here. “The upper Clark Fork, I’d say, is mainly a walk and wade situation to begin with,” Marcum said. Anglers can cover a lot of ground in a short time if they just keep walking, searching for the perfect pool. It’s not a tough proposition. There’s access at a few sites near Deer Lodge and farther upstream. Nymph fishing is probably the best way to land fish, Marcum said. Close to a spillway at the river’s headwaters, he said, scud patterns and sow bugs will prove useful. More general nymphs like pheasant tails will draw strikes year-round too. Fish start looking up when skwalas come off in the early spring. Hatches of this big green stonefly aren’t as dense as they are on other streams, but if the bugs are out, fish will take them. The Mother’s Day caddis comes next, followed by pale morning duns, yellow sallies and golden stoneflies. Crowds, though, can be an issue. Many anglers know that most of the fish are in the uppermost reaches. Be kind if you find yourself there on a crowded day. Don’t wade through pools. Keep an eye on other anglers and give them their space. Also be mindful that the Superfund work is still ongoing. Marcum said some sections of the stream end up closed for two years at a time or longer while crews work on conservation projects like rehabilitating banks. To find out what’s open and what’s not, call a local fly shop before you go.

CLARK FORK QUICK FACTS RIVER MILES: 200 miles from headwaters to Idaho border BEST HATCH: The Clark Fork is one of the best waters in the Montana for pale morning duns. Get to the river in midsummer and PMDs will surely be among the bugs trout are after. NEAREST CITIES: Butte, Anaconda, Missoula

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JEFFERSON BY MICHAEL WRIGHT

OR YEARS, ANGLERS OVERLOOKED THE JEFFERSON River. Its tributary streams, the Beaverhead and Big Hole, have reputations that tend to overshadow it. And if the regionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s big-name distractions werenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t enough, occasional droughts and years with painfully low flows gave people even more reasons to fish elsewhere. Recently, though, that story has been changing. Irrigators and angling groups have worked together to keep flows at a healthy level for fish. A few robust water years have helped too, and fish-per-mile counts have climbed above 1,000. Anglers have begun to whisper that maybe, just maybe, the Jefferson has become one of the better fisheries in southwest Montana. Good luck getting a local outfitter to confirm that suspicion. They like secrets, and the Jefferson used to be theirs. Perhaps the best way to figure out what lies in the Jefferson is to drive along Highway 41 and see for yourself.

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JEFFERSON QUICK FACTS RIVER MILES: 89 miles from headwaters to Three Forks BEST HATCH: Though caddis, PMDs, baetis and golden stones hatch on the Jefferson, look for hoppers in late July and August to provide the best dry fly bite for larger trout. NEAREST CITIES: Twin Bridges, Whitehall, Three Forks

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The Jefferson begins at the junction of its two famous tributaries near the town of Twin Bridges, the headquarters for R.L. Winston Rod Company and bamboo rodmaker Sweetgrass Rods. From there, it flows through a lush agricultural valley toward the headwaters of the Missouri. Riffle-sections exist in some of the upper portions, but for much of its 80-some mile existence, the Jefferson River is glassy and calm. Cottonwood trees dot the banks and river islands. Ranch and farmland fill out the rest of the landscape, complete with beef cows and rolled hay bales. Boat access is available at Hell’s Canyon, Silver Star Bridge and Parson’s Bridge. All are fine spots to launch for a day float. Floating isn’t necessarily required on the Jefferson, but it can be helpful. Productive pools can be far apart. Even so, the stream’s numerous side channels and sloughs will give floating anglers plenty of reasons to park the boat and explore on foot. Early season mayflies like blue-winged olives can bring fish to the surface. Starting in May, caddis begin hatching. Watch for pale morning duns, tricos and golden stoneflies throughout the summer. Hopper fishing in the late summer is what the Jefferson is becoming known for. Windy days send the bugs off nearby hay fields, and the stream’s larger trout can be caught with meaty terrestrial patterns placed in the right spot. Big streamers can induce powerful strikes in the fall too. You can chuck flies as big as size #2 if you want. Pound undercut banks and strip flies through the pockets in search of your next trophy trout.

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MADISON BY MICHAEL WRIGHT

HEN PEOPLE THINK ABOUT BASEBALL, THEY think about the famous stadiums - Wrigley Field, Fenway Park, old Yankee Stadium. When they think about fly fishing for trout, Montana comes to mind, and for John Way, it’s about one river. “The Madison is what I think about,” said Way, the owner of The Tackle Shop in Ennis. It’s no surprise that he holds it in such high regard. Riffling through the picturesque Madison Valley, then passing through Ennis Dam and on to Three Forks, the stream offers anglers the chance to fish everything from technical dry fly fishing to big streamers against the banks. “It’s so dynamic,” Way said. Beginning in Yellowstone National Park at the junction of the Firehole and Gibbon rivers, the Madison flows westward, forming Hebgen Lake just as it leaves the park. Below Hebgen and Quake lakes, the river is thought of in two distinct sections: the Upper and the Lower. The Upper Madison is the section between Quake Lake and Ennis Lake, while the lower is between Ennis Lake and Three Forks. The Upper is perhaps the more famous of the two. Sometimes called “The 50 Mile Riffle,” the stream flows out of the dam and over

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a rocky bed to the town of Ennis. With its boulder-strewn streambed, deep buckets and riffles, this stretch has all the features of a freestone with the consistent temperatures of a tailwater. Those two personalities combine to create something special in the insect department. “It’s got all the bugs of a tailwater plus all the bugs of a freestone,” Way said. The year begins with midges, coming off on winter days when air temperatures run a little warm. If the wind stays down, you can find fish rising to them. In early April, the blue-winged olives arrive, followed by the Mother’s Day caddis hatch. Runoff dirties the water in late spring and early summer. When the water clears, salmonflies and golden stoneflies arrive, two hatches the Upper Madison is famous for. Caddis and pale morning duns fill out the summer, followed by hoppers and terrestrials. Another helping of blue-winged olives arrives in fall. The Lower Madison is much smoother than the Upper, acting more like a classic tailwater with weed beds and a silty bottom. Mayflies are the main hatches here, between blue-winged olives, PMDs and caddis. Way said he fishes this portion of the stream in winter and early spring, returning in late fall. Tubers all but take over the river in midsummer, and the water warms to a point that stresses fish. Wading access is good on both sections of the river. The Lower runs through Bear Trap Canyon, and hiking trails on both sides of the river offer anglers a chance to get away from the crowds and experience some backcountry-type fishing not far from civilization. A good number of boat ramps also provide good drift boat access to both sections.

MADISON QUICK FACTS RIVER MILES: 126 miles from Yellowstone National Park boundary to Three Forks BEST HATCH: While the Mother’s Day caddis and salmonfly hatches get all the fanfare, the baetis hatch in March and April might be the best dry fly fishing the river has to offer. NEAREST CITIES: West Yellowstone, Ennis, Three Forks

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YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK BY MICHAEL WRIGHT

ORGET THE HOT SPRINGS. FORGET THE GEYSERS. Forget the bison, the deer, the elk. Yellowstone National Park is a fly-fishing paradise. Montana’s big name streams – the Yellowstone, Madison and Gallatin - have their headwaters there. And there’s a laundry list of small streams and lakes that are also worth your time. Soda Butte Creek teems with plump Yellowstone cutthroats that have a hard time resisting hopper patterns in summer. The stream flows along the Northeast Entrance Road before it meets the Lamar River, and offers easy access along its banks for much of the way. Drive a few miles west of there and you’ll find Slough Creek. Part of it is accessible from a dirt road off the main highway, but don’t be afraid to hit the trail and hike into the meadows. About 45 minutes is all it takes to reach the first meadow, while the second meadow is about three hours of walking. Wading isn’t required in those stretches, so you can just wear your hiking boots. For a classic Yellowstone fishing experience, hit the Firehole River. It draws its name from the thermal activity that surrounds it and gives it a warmer temperature than most other streams. It begins at Madison Lake and winds through Old Faithful and Fountain Flats

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before joining the Gibbon River to form the Madison. Trout in the Firehole have become accustomed to warmer water temperatures, offering anglers the chance to cast a line near hot springs and geysers. Where else can you do that? The park’s famous lakes are also good options. Walk the banks of Yellowstone Lake looking for risers. You’ll surely find a few. Cutthroat can grow large there, but remember the park’s special regulations on lake trout. Since they were introduced illegally, any laker you catch must be killed. Lewis, Heart and Shoshone lakes are viable options as well. Lewis Lake can be reached by road, while Shoshone and Heart require a significant hike. Trout Lake in the Northeast corner of the park is a good spot to day hike for cutthroat. The

lake is small and trout can often be seen from the shoreline. You may also find success on the west side of the park off Highway 191. The stretch of the Gallatin River that runs through there holds nice rainbow and cutthroat trout, and smaller streams like Fan Creek aren’t far off the road. Make sure you get a park map at the gates and study it for streams or lakes you’d like to explore. Many of them hold fish, and most of them are worth a shot. Don’t be afraid. The park will reward the enterprising angler. Anglers fishing in Yellowstone need a park fishing license. Anglers older than 16 must buy either an $18 three-day, $25 seven-day or a $40 season permit. No state licenses are required.

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HIT THE TRAIL BY MICHAEL WRIGHT

UMMERTIME IN MONTANA. Rodeos, 4th of July parades, barbecues. The best part, though, is that the trails and rugged Forest Service roads are open. Bring the fly rod. Hiking to pristine trout habitat is one of the greatest experiences an angler can have. There’s nothing like logging three miles in the quiet of a wilderness area and coming upon rising Yellowstone cutthroats. In fact, it doesn’t matter what species it is. There’s nothing like watching a fish come after a fly in a place where honking horns don’t exist and cell service is a pipe dream. This can happen in plenty of places in Montana. A popular spot is the Bob Marshall Wilderness in northwestern Montana, in the Flathead and Lewis and Clark National Forests. “The Bob” comprises more than a million acres. Aside from countless small streams that anglers are loathe to name, there’s the South Fork of the Flathead River. It’s stacked full of westslope cutthroat, and it’s not uncommon to see a bull trout slithering around its deepest holes. The Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness is another option, and it’s a high mountain lake paradise. Located within the Custer Gallatin National Forest in the mountains

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south of Interstate 90 between Livingston and Billings, there are several access points. Some of the lakes up there may even hold golden trout, a rare treat. Southwest of Bozeman, there’s the Lee Metcalf Wilderness. It includes four units: the Bear Trap Canyon unit, Spanish Peaks unit, Monument Mountain unit and Taylor-Hilgard unit. There are also opportunities in other mountain ranges. There’s fine lake fishing in the Tobacco Roots west of Bozeman, and in the Crazy Mountains north of Big Timber. The Crazies also offer the opportunity for catching golden trout. Helpful resources for high mountain lakes fishing available on the Montana Fish, Wildlife and Parks website (fwp. mt.gov) include information about fish stocking and species. FWP has compiled guides for Region 3, which makes up southwest Montana, and adjacent Region 5, which covers the Absaroka-Beartooth Mountains and the Crazies. For trail information, find a good map or ask around. One of the best things about backcountry fishing is the simplicity of fly selection. Carry an assortment of attractor dry flies and generic nymph patterns, along with that old standby, the woolly bugger.

ESSENTIAL GEAR BY MICHAEL WRIGHT

NE KNOCK ON FLY-FISHING is that it requires a lot of stuff. This isn’t exactly a bamboo pole and worm game. When you think of a fly angler, you probably picture someone with a floppy hat, waders, sunglasses, vest, plaid shirt. Maybe he’s smoking a pipe. And that’s not to mention the rod, reel, line, leader and flies. The bad news: You need some of that stuff. The good news: You definitely don’t need all of it. There are a few essentials, and quality depends on how much you want to spend. Here’s a breakdown of the things you’ll need to catch trout on a fly.

• A fishing license. • A fly rod, usually a 5-weight or a 6-weight will do. Some of the best rods available may cost more than your first car. If you’re into spending that much, great – visit a local fly shop to see top-of-the-line options. But there are plenty of affordable setups available. A good Walmart rod will run you less than $50, and the next step up in quality can be purchased for $100 to $200 at different sporting goods stores. • A reel and fly line complete the setup. It attaches to the rod and holds your fly line.

The best reels offer drag systems to help when fighting a big fish. Floating fly lines are generally the choice for anglers here, as they can be used to fish in a variety of ways. Make sure the line and reel match your rod’s weight – again, 5-weights and 6-weights are typical. • Leader and tippet are the next step. A leader attaches to the fly line, the tippet attaches to the leader, and the fly attaches to the tippet. Leaders come tapered to a certain diameter, and spools of tippet come in one diameter. Diameters run between 0X and 7X, 0X being the biggest and 7X the smallest. Generally, 4X works best. Buying leaders and tippets with matching diameters will help your casts look pretty. • Flies complete the picture. Bins at fly shops and sporting goods stores can be intimidating, featuring so many varieties your head will spin. Ask an expert to help you pick the ones you’ll need, and be sure to get a mix of nymphs and dry flies. • A few nonessentials will improve your angling life: nail clippers for trimming knots, sunglasses and a pair of old shoes or sandals for wading.

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A WORD ON FLIES BY MICHAEL WRIGHT

DON’T SKI IN THE WINTERTIME. This makes me an anomaly in Bozeman, and people wonder how I spend winters. The answer? I spend way too much time tying flies for the next season. As a result, I often show up to the water with boxes and boxes of flies that I don’t need and may never use. Nobody needs to follow my example here, but there are a few flies that everyone should carry. Anglers should have an assortment of general nymph and dry fly patterns, along with a few that correspond to specific hatches for each season.

THE FOLLOWING ARE SOME OF MY FAVORITES: PARACHUTE ADAMS, sizes 12-20. This fly is a gray dry fly imitation and works for imitating different mayfly hatches throughout the year. On many small streams throughout the state, this fly by itself will bring trout to the surface. Carry a number of sizes, and if a rising fish is refusing it, consider sizing down. ROYAL WULFF, sizes 12-16. With white wings and a red and green body, this is one of the more beautiful dry flies out there. It works for imitating large mayfly hatches and can be deadly on smaller streams in summer. It might not work if fish are keyed on a particular insect, but it can be a good prospecting pattern when fish aren’t coming up otherwise. WOOLLY BUGGER, sizes 4-8. The classic streamer pattern, this fly comes in 34

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a variety of colors. It works well as a wet fly swung across a run or stripped through a deep hole. Many anglers turn to the fly when they’re not sure what else to do. They do that because the fly works. PHEASANT TAIL NYMPH, sizes 12-20. The pheasant tail nymph imitates the subsurface stage of mayfly life, when the insects are coming up from the river bottom to hatch on the surface. It’s a good year-round fly. It can be tied with a bead on top to help it sink; that will help catch fish. CADDIS, sizes 12-20. Caddis are a dependable summer evening hatch on most western rivers. The fly can be tied in a variety of ways and colors. Its consistent feature is a down-wing made of elk or deer hair that spans the length of its body. Tan is one of the more popular body colors, though black and olive are also good options. BLUE-WINGED OLIVES, sizes 16-20. An important mayfly hatch on most rivers in this guide, BWOs are spring and fall staples. With a dark olive-colored body and light blue-gray hackle, this insect ought to be in your box during those seasons. Consider carrying both its nymph and adult forms. PALE MORNING DUN, sizes 16-20. Like the BWO, these mayflies are common on Montana rivers in summer. They come in light colors, yellow and white, with light-colored hackle. Fish will take these patterns June through August.

SMALL STREAMS BY BEN PIERCE

HILE THE MAGAZINE covers and glossy adverts continue a never-ending barrage of press promoting Montana’s most famous waters, some of the best fishing to be had is on the state’s countless small streams and creeks. The secret to fishing these waters is doing a little research and getting off the beaten path. Montana has a way of opening her arms to those who take a little time to explore. One of the reasons Montana’s smaller waters are so good is because they have escaped the spotlight and the fishing pressure of their more popular counterparts. Savvy anglers and locals know this, and they’d like to keep it that way. With that said, here are a few tips on finding your own secret spot:

• Purchase a Montana atlas and pick a stream to explore. There is no shortage of little blue lines on the map. You’ve just got to choose one and check it out for yourself. • Ask permission. Montana has a liberal stream access law that provides excellent access to its waters. Still, many streams run through private property. Be respectful of private property rights and ask permission of landowners if there is any doubt about where you are fishing.

• Talk to the locals. You know the guy, the one you see on the river catching fish after fish, the one with the dusty pickup truck and the dirty ball cap. He’s a nice guy. He lives here and he loves it. And he just might help you out. • Hire a guide. Just because most of the folks dropping by the fly shop are looking to fish the big waters doesn’t mean you have to. Many guides in the Bozeman/Livingston/Ennis area have as much knowledge of the region’s small streams as they do the big rivers. They’ll be happy not to play bumper boats for a day. • Speak to the staff at Montana Fish, Wildlife & Parks. The state fish and game agency employs dozens of fisheries biologists who have firsthand knowledge and expertise of Montana’s rivers and streams. They might not be willing to spill the beans on their own secret spots, but they’ll certainly provide advice on what to look for. • Take a hike. Getting away from the main drag is your best bet to find the fishing you’re after. And that doesn’t mean you have to hike 20 miles into the backcountry (although it doesn’t hurt). Look for trailheads and Forest Service access points leading into the mountains. The fishing is good up there.

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MSU LIBRARY A FISHERMAN’S PARADISE BY LISA REUTER

Trout Art, “The Fishes of Alaska,” Evermann Goldsborough, 1907. Plate 37, Alaska Cutthroat Salmon.

ERE’S A FISHING TIP: THE NEXT TIME YOU PLAN to fish waters farther afield than the six blue-ribbon streams around Bozeman, first stop at Montana State University’s Renne Library and its Trout and Salmonid Collection on the second floor. Between its 13,000 books and a collection of more than 600 different fishing magazines and journals from around the world, you’re sure to find some tips on the place you’re going, no matter how remote. Or collection librarian James Thull can help you. He loves to share its riches with visitors. “If you’re going to any distant place to fish, we’ll have some information on it,” he said. Thull knows that firsthand. He’s fished four of the seven continents. The collection, established in 2000, was the idea of then dean of MSU Libraries Bruce Morton and legendary fly fisherman Bud Lilly. Today, it is the largest of its kind, constantly making inter-library loans to researchers around the world. Its treasures include a 1720 edition of Isaak Walton’s “Compleat

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Angler”; a 1657 Latin edition of “Encyclopedia of Animals and Fish” with illustrations of a griffin and a unicorn; copies of game laws from around the world, with the U.S. books dating to 1775; and the papers of Dr. Robert Benhke of Colorado State University, the world’s pre-eminent trout researcher. There are doctoral theses, cookbooks dating to the 1800s, children’s books, a 1940s pamphlet on salmon canning put out by the state of Alaska, and fishing DVDs, illustrations, scientific papers, government documents and oral histories from more than 60 famous anglers, including Lilly, John Gierach and Joan Wulff. “You can trace fishing history and the changes in societal values through the collection,” said Thull, who has managed it since 2005. He cited two children’s books to make his point. The first, from the 1950s, tells of bringing home a “carload” of fish. A more recent story is about

Trout Art, “Die Fischzucht,“ Borne, 1875-85, Bulltrout.

catch and release. On days you can’t get outside to fish, troll the stacks of this collection. You’re sure to land a prize or two. The MSU Trout and Salmonid Collection is open 8 a.m.-5 p.m. Monday through Friday. Nothing can be checked out but you can read materials onsite and make copies. Many resources are also available online, www.lib.montana.edu/ trout. Contact Thull at jjthull@montana. edu to arrange a tour.

Pictures courtesy of MSU Trout & Salmonid Collection.

Trout Art, “The Flyfisher’s Entomology,” 1922, Frontis Piece, Trout, Parr, Grayling. Summer 2017 | HATCH

FIND A FLY SHOP

You’ll find at least one fly fishing shop in most towns in southwestern Montana. These are the places to find gear, flies and good people with information to share. Here’s a partial list of places that can help your days on the water go well:

BOZEMAN

EMIGRANT

Montana Troutfitters 1716 W. Main St., (406) 587-4707, www.troutfitters.com

Angler’s West Fly Fishing At the Emigrant flashing light and U.S. Highway 89 S., (406) 333-4401, www.montanaflyfishers.com

The River’s Edge 2012 N. 7th Ave., (406) 586-5373, www.riversedge.com Bozeman Angler 23 E. Main St. (406) 587-9111 www.bozemanangler.com Fins & Feathers 81801 Gallatin Rd., (406) 586-2188 www.finsandfeathersonline.com

LIVINGSTON Dan Bailey’s Fly Shop 209 W. Park St., (406) 222-1673 www.dan-bailey.com Hatch Finders Fly Shop 5237 U.S. Highway 89 S. Ste. 12, (406) 222-0989, www.hatchfinders.com George Anderson’s Yellowstone Angler 5256 U.S. Highway 89 S., (406) 222-7130, www.yellowstoneangler.com Sweetwater Fly Shop 5082 US Highway 89 S., (406) 222-9393, www.sweetwaterflyshop.com

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ENNIS The Tackle Shop 127 Main St., (406) 682-4263 www.thetackleshop.com Madison River Fishing Company 109 E. Main St., (406) 682-4293 www.mrfc.com

WEST YELLOWSTONE Blue Ribbon Flies 305 N. Canyon St., (406) 646-7642, www.blue-ribbon-flies.com Arrick’s Fly Shop 37 N. Canyon St., (406) 646-7290, www.arricks.com Bud Lilly’s Trout Shop 39 Madison Ave., (406) 646-7801, www.budlillys.com Jacklin’s Fly Shop 105 Yellowstone Ave., (406) 646-7336, www.jacklinsflyshop.com

Madison River Outfitters 125 N. Canyon St., (406) 646-9644, www.madisonriveroutfitters.com

Gallatin River Guides 47430 Gallatin Rd., (406) 995-2290, www.montanaflyfishing.com

BIG SKY

GARDINER

East Slope Outdoors 44 Town Center Ave., (406) 995-4369, www.eastslopeoutdoors.com

Park’s Fly Shop 202 Second St. S., (406) 848-7314, www.parksflyshop.com

I go fishing not to find myself, But to lose myself. -Joseph Monninger

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