Yellowstone National Park 2024 Travel Guide

YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK

2024 TRAVEL GUIDE

Where the ROAM Antelope

Pronghorn, or “antelope” as they are often called, are just one of the many varieties of wild animals you are likely to encounter during your visit to Yellowstone National Park. Pronghorn can reach speeds of up to 60 miles per hour.

Photo courtesy of NPS / Neal Herbert

YELLOWSTONE

GET WILD

Yellowstone’s wildlife draws visitors from across the globe. • By Isabel Hicks 4

SOAKING IN PARADISE

Enjoying Paradise Valley’s hot springs on your way to and from Yellowstone.

By Katherine Sears ............................... 6

HAPPY TRAILS

Treat yourself to a Yellowstone ski trip.

By Jaci Webb 8

BEYOND OLD FAITHFUL

Yellowstone’s lesser-known geothermal features. • By Will Briggs ...................... 10

HOOK, LINE AND FUN

Yellowstone offers wide array of fishing opportunities • By Laurenz Busch ......... 12

THE BEARTOOTH PASS, A DREAM CLOTHED IN REALITY

There may be no better way to enter or exit Yellowstone. • By Alastair Baker 14

A NIGHT OUTDOORS

Variety of options for those who want to spend a night in Yellowstone. • By Dan Astin 17

ONE MONTANANS JOURNEY THROUGH YELLOWSTONE By Melody Montgomery ..................... 22

EXPERIENCE YELLOWSTONE BY SNOWMOBILE

By Patrick Bouman ............................ 24

YELLOWSTONE WITHOUT THE CROWDS

Tips for enjoying the Park with fewer people and more solitude. • By Deb Hill 26

ON THE EDGE OF PARADISE

Livingston Montana is the perfect stop on your way to Yellowstone.

By John Carroll 30

ON THE COVER:

Lower Falls of Yellowstone’s Grand Canyon by Jacob W. Frank/NPS

Grizzly Bear by Eric Johnston/NPS

Junior Ranger outside the Albright Visitor Center by Neal Herbert/NPS

Country!

Yellowstone National Park is a magical place. From its abundant wildlife to its awe-inspiring waterfalls and geysers, Yellowstone draws millions of visitors from all corners of our world.

The Park’s 2.2 million acres offer incredible opportunities to observe wildlife, explore geothermal areas and view geologic wonders.

We hope this travel guide helps you make the most of your trip to Yellowstone. It’s packed with tips and suggestions for how to enjoy the Park. It also has some great ideas for stops on your way to and from Yellowstone.

Yellowstone is a true national treasure. Enjoy your visit!

Jacques Rutten, Editor

Enjoying the view from Specimen Ridge, Lamar Valley. NPS / NEAL HERBERT PARK SERVICE

GET WILD

YELLOWSTONE’S WILDLIFE DRAWS VISITORS

FROM ACROSS THE GLOBE

By Isabel Hicks Adams Publishing Group

365 days a year, in sunshine or snowstorms, people from around the world travel to Yellowstone National Park to glimpse wildlife that they can’t see anywhere else.

Established as America’s first national park in 1892, Yellowstone is also one of the most popular, drawing between three and four million visitors each year.

Millions of those visitors come for unique terrestrial wildlife that can range freely in its natural habitat. The park’s 2.2 million acres are home to scores of elk, deer, pronghorn, mountain lions, coyotes, black bears, grizzly bears, foxes and wolves, not to mention hawks, eagles, songbirds and the countless fish and insects that live in Yellowstone’s blue-ribbon rivers.

Visitors can experience wildlife viewing on or off trail. When driving through the park, a line of stopped cars or people pulled over is a good indicator there’s animals to see.

Technically, drivers are not allowed to stop in the road to view wildlife. But it’s hard to go to Yellowstone without experiencing an infamous “bison jam” – or the best chance to get a close-up look at a bison from your car window as animals cross the road.

The Yellowstone bison herd, which hovers around 5,000 animals, is often referred to as the most culturally and

ecologically significant bison herd in the world. That’s because they’re the direct descendants of the last remaining wild bison after European colonizers nearly drove the species to extinction. In addition to their genetics, the environment the bison live in make them truly wild – they’re subject to harsh winters and predation from the park’s other animals.

Wolves are one of the top carnivores in Yellowstone and also a big draw for park visitors. Winter is a popular time to watch

Wildlife watching in Yellowstone may be the one chance visitors have to see certain animals.

wolves, as their grey and black coats stand out in a field of white snow. Wolves travel in packs that sometimes singular wolves will break off from. They remain an elusive species that’s hard to spot – at last count there were only 108 wolves living in the park.

Still, Yellowstone wolves tell a huge conservation success story.

Bison herd with calves in Lamar Valley. Photo by Neal Herbert

Following decades of predation eradication, the Yellowstone Wolf Project reintroduced the animals to the park in the 1990s. The predator is crucial to controlling ungulate numbers in Yellowstone and the spread of chronic wasting disease.

Another incredible animal that lives in Yellowstone is the grizzly bear. When hiking in the park, visitors should be bear aware, practice proper food storage, and carry bear spray. Yellowstone grizzly bears used to be dependent on food from tourists – historic images show people feeding them marshmallows from their car windows – but now scientists know feeding bears actually hurts their population long term.

Indeed, Yellowstone has played a key role in recovering these species and preserving their habitat. Wildlife watching in Yellowstone may be the one chance visitors have to see certain animals – grizzly bears are still considered endangered throughout the U.S., and grey wolves are endangered outside the Northern Rocky Mountain ecosystem.

But remember to appreciate the grandeur of wildlife from afar. Touching or feeding wildlife is expressly prohibited in Yellowstone – it’s dangerous, can result in a fine and even criminal charges. Park regulations require visitors to stand at least 300 feet from bears and wolves and 75 feet from all other animals, including bison and elk.

Nanny mountain goat with her kid on Sepulcher Mountain. Photo by Diane Renkin

SOAKING IN PARADISE

Enjoy Paradise Valley’s hot springs on your way to or from Yellowstone

By Katherine Sears Adams Publishing Group

After a long day (or a few) in Yellowstone National Park, there may be no better way to unwind than with a soak in one of the area’s natural hot springs. And perhaps, no trip to Montana is complete without a dip into the developed areas where geothermally heated groundwater emerges from the Earth.

Soaking in a hot spring can offer some health benefits, as the water contains a variety of minerals. Those benefits

include a boost in blood circulation and reduced stress levels. A soak can also serve as a natural pain reliever and improve some skin irritations and conditions.

Not to mention, the natural beauty surrounding Montana hot springs is sure to lift spirits. Grab your swimsuit and hop in!

YELLOWSTONE HOT SPRINGS

Yellowstone Hot Springs is just eight miles down the road from the north entrance. The pools offer breathtaking views of the Yellowstone River and south end of Paradise Valley.

Steam rises from the pools at Yellowstone Hot Springs just outside of Gardiner, Mont. Photo courtesy of Yellowstone Hot Springs

Those visiting the springs will have two different pool temperatures to choose from: the hot pool runs between 103 and 105 degrees, while the main pool ranges between 98 and 100 degrees. You can also take advantage of a cold plunge at 60 to 65 degrees.

All the pools are flow through, which means fresh mineral water is constantly flowing from the earth to the pools.

No reservations are necessary to soak. Check pool hours on the Yellowstone Hot Springs website. There is a fee to soak.

Lodging options range from suites to cabin rentals, and RV and tent camping availability.

CHICO HOT SPRINGS

About a 40-minute (very scenic) drive from the north entrance of Yellowstone National Park is Chico Hot Springs.

The site’s history dates back to 1900, when a couple opened the Chico Warm Springs Hotel. A soak, stay, and a fine meal is said to have drawn fortune seekers prospecting the surrounding gold mines.

The hot springs themselves have changed little since that time. Today they sit where they did over a century ago and visitors still make a point to stop for a soak in the mineralinfused water.

Today, Chico offers two pools, lodging, dining, and other amenities. The pools offer mountain views and convenient proximity to the poolside grill and Chico Saloon. The saloon offers food, drinks, and one will often find a musician or two picking away on a guitar late into the evening.

Pool hours for day guests are from 8 a.m. to 11 p.m. daily. There is a fee to soak. Those staying at the resort can enjoy extended pool hours.

Yellowstone Hot Springs is busy on a summer day. Photo courtesy of Yellowstone Hot Springs

TREAT YOURSELF TO A

YELLOWSTONE SKI TRIP Happy Trails

By Jaci Webb Adams Publishing Group

The ski gear may be upgraded, but the destination is always the same -Yellowstone National Park in winter.

For three decades, I have made the trek through Paradise Valley with a luxurious soak at Chico Hot Springs and then onto Gardiner and Yellowstone National Park for our annual family cross country ski trip. My daughters went from being carried in a backpack to getting their first pairs of cross-country skis, and now my oldest daughter is taking her two pre-school aged sons skiing.

If you have never been to Yellowstone Park in the winter months, get ready for a treat. People are rare and animals are plentiful. It’s so quiet, you can hear the snow falling. Grizzly bears are in hibernation, so you don’t have to worry about them. But most of the other animals are out and about. Bison wander through the Lamar Valley and along the creeks on Blacktail Deer Plateau, swaying their massive heads back and forth to uncover any grass under the snow. Moose can be spotted behind the willows along the Lamar River or near Tower Creek. I’ve encountered bison, moose and elk on the ski trail, and have turned around many times to give them space. I’ve also seen fox, wolves and big horn sheep. Winter is the time for

the animals to take back their park and for us to gaze in wonder.

Services are minimal in Yellowstone Park in the winter so make sure to pack food and plenty of water. Food and water may freeze in your car or backpack so you should think about using an insulated water bottle and lunch sack.

Cell service is also limited any time of the year in Yellowstone, so plan ahead. The altitude in Yellowstone ranges from 7,000 to 10,000 so if you are not used to high-altitude exercise, you might have to pace yourself,

Skiing in the Park can be enjoyed by people of all ages. Photo by Jaci Webb

and wear sunscreen as the reflection off the snow combined with the high altitude can result in a sunburn, even in the cold. Thermal features are more dramatic in the cold. Most roads are closed to vehicle traffic during the winter months, but you can take a snow coach to Old Faithful in the winter and see the signature geyser steaming against a brilliant blue sky. There are many groomed ski trails in the Old Faithful area.

Ski rentals are available at Mammoth Hot Springs as well as information about trails and the snow coach. A good spot for novice skiers is the Mammoth Upper Terrace loop, which you can drive to year-round. The 1.5-mile loop follows the road that is closed to vehicle traffic in the winter months. The groomed ski trail runs next to thermal features, including Orange Spring Mound, and the boardwalk takes you to the brilliant turquoise Canary Spring.

Most park roads close to regular vehicle traffic from early November to mid-March, but the 50-mile road from Mammoth to Cooke City is open yearround, providing access to several ski trails in the northern end of the park via car. Tower Junction is about half-way to Cooke City on the Grand Loop Road 18 miles from Mammoth. Here, you can park and take the ski trail up to the overlook to Tower Falls, which is a 5-mile round trip ski with magnificent views of the Yellowstone River canyon and frozen waterfalls. It is among my favorite ski trails in Yellowstone Park. Other favorites are Blacktail Deer Plateau and Baronette Trail. You can also take the snow coach from Mammoth to other ski areas of Yellowstone, including Indian Creek, Old Faithful and Canyon.

For more information about Yellowstone in winter, go to nps.gov. Happy trails.

Frozen waterfalls and plenty of wildlife are a few of the rewards of a winter trip to Yellowstone.

Photo courtesy of Jaci Webb

BEYOND OLD FAITHFUL

Yellowstone’s lesser-known geothermal features

By Will Briggs Adams Publishing Group

Old Faithful may get all the attention as Yellowstone’s most famous geothermal feature, but visiting the park’s other geyser basins can be an equally rewarding experience, or even more so, for several reasons.

First and foremost, they’re less crowded than Old Faithful. Secondly, with a few exceptions, most of the park’s geyser basins are very accessible for everyone. And thirdly, depending on the size of the basin, they can be taken at visitors’ own pace. Some can fill an entire day or half-day, while others can slot conveniently into a break between hikes or animal watching.

Here are a few of the more easily reached basins in Yellowstone.

UPPER GEYSER BASIN

No geyser basin is better equipped to work with a Yellowstone visit than Upper Geyser Basin, which contains the park’s most famous attraction. But there is so much

more to the Upper Basin than Old Faithful. Visitors wanting to beat the long line of cars for parking to see Old Faithful or to leave Old Faithful can take their time walking the nearby Geyser Hill and/or observation point loops, or out and back on the trail along Firehole River to take in the numerous geysers and pools.

Biscuit Basin and Black Sand Basin, both smaller geothermal areas, are also technically part of Upper Geyser Basin and can be reached either by foot or by car. Walking to both basins can turn a morning or afternoon excursion into a full day outing.

NORRIS GEYSER BASIN

Another area that can fill a whole day, Norris Geyser Basin contains a combination of impressive geysers, along with hot springs, vents, pools, and beautifully sparse terrain. The area contains two loops: the more forested Back Basin, and the open Porcelain Basin. The largest active geyser in the world, Steamboat Geyser, is found in Norris.

MIDWAY GEYSER BASIN

Located midway between Yellowstone’s Upper and Lower Basins, Midway Geyser basin is the site of North America’s

The Porcelain Basin at Norris Geyser Basin provides unique, beautifully desolate views of the landscape and is replete with a number of geysers and hot springs.. Photo by Will Briggs

West Thumb Geyser Basin on Lake Yellowstone also offers a unique views of the park’s geothermal features, including several geysers and springs just past the shoreline itself. Photo by Will Briggs

largest hot spring, the gorgeous Grand Prismatic Spring. Visitors take in the spring’s bluer-than-the-sky blue at ground level or at the overlook, along with the Turquoise and Opal Pools and Excelsior Geyser Crater.

LOWER GEYSER BASIN

A shorter loop just a short drive from Upper Basin, the Lower Basin is perhaps best known for being home to Fountain Paint Pots, bubbling mud pots that become thicker or thinner based on rainfall. The area also contains numerous geysers, hot springs, and fumaroles.

WEST THUMB GEYSER BASIN

Set against the backdrop of Lake Yellowstone, West Thumb Geyser Basin is a small grouping of geysers and hot springs located right on the lakeshore. Several geysers, the Fishing Cone and Lake Shore Geyser, are even located on (or under) the water itself.

MUD VOLCANO AREA

As the name suggests, the Mud Volcano Area is home to simmering muddy cauldrons and geysers. But it’s also the site of Dragon’s Mouth Spring, a hillside cavern that spouts enough steam with enough volume to make visitors question whether dragons might not actually exist after all. Some portions of the Mud Volcano Area (fortunately not Dragon’s Mouth) are located up a hill.

ARTISTS PAINT POTS

Another area that can make for a quick visit is Artists Paint Pots, which contains springs, geysers, vents, and, most notably, mud pots. While both the area’s thermal basin and paint pots can be viewed from a boardwalk, visitors without accessibility concerns can get a view of the area from above via an overlook loop.

Artists Paint Pots Trail leads visitors not only to geysers, but also to mudpots, which gurgle and bubble with splattering mud. Photo by Will Briggs

Like many springs and pools in Yellowstone, Sapphire Pool at Biscuit Basin, technically part of Upper Geyser Basin, can appear bluer than the sky itself.

Photo by Will Briggs

Steam gushes forth from Dragon’s Mouth Spring at the Mud Volcano Area in Yellowstone. Photo by Will Briggs

HOOK, LINE AND FUN

Yellowstone offers wide array of fishing opportunities

By Laurenz Busch Adams Publishing Group

Summer is quickly approaching and what better way to spend a weekend than a trip into one of American’s most beautiful landscapes to fish. Yellowstone National Park offers a wide range of fishing opportunities especially for the fly-fishing purist. As the snow continues to melt and the roads open, there’s plenty to access for those in search of Yellowstone Cutthroat Trout.

Whether you’re backpacking or driving through the park via car or motorcycle, whether you’re looking the easily accessible or a 40-mile haul into the Thorofare, here’s a list of some lakes and rivers not to be missed for a weekend away. So, load up your rods, flies and waders and head to Yellowstone.

Please respect wildlife and fishing regulations.

YELLOWSTONE LAKE

We obviously had to include the largest lake in Yellowstone National Park and for good reason. The 20 miles by 14 miles lake offers access to Lake Trout and Longnose Suckers. It also has the largest population of cutthroat trout in North America. Normally, cutthroat come from the Pacific Ocean but scientists believe they made their way to the park because Yellowstone Lake once drained into the pacific, the national park’s website said.

The lake tends to freeze in the winter months and thaws in late May or early June. Wade along its edges or take a boat. When you’re done, head over to West Thumb or Old Faithful to experience some of the more popular geysers. Caution, the lake has an average temperature of just 41 degrees and the park does not recommend swimming.

Fly fishing on the Madison River. NPS / Neal Herbert

SHOSHONE LAKE

If the largest lake in Yellowstone wasn’t enough, we’ve also included the second largest, although for this one, you have to hike. The 205-foot-deep lake has numerous fish including lake trout, brown trout and brook trout. The park said that the lake was originally barren of fish but that the two trout specific were introduced in 1890. Fishing season for Shoshone lake is Memorial Day weekend until October 31.

YELLOWSTONE RIVER

The Yellowstone River runs northeast through the park starting in the Thorofare region. There are several regions to explore, including Black Canyon, the Thorofare, the Upper Falls area, and the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. There are numerous guides available for hire and an extensive

list can be found on the Yellowstone National Park website.

NORTH FORK SHOSHONE RIVER

Starting in the heights of the Absaroka Range, the North Fork Shoshone River offers some of the most picturesque fishing opportunities. A whole variety of trout call this river home, including Yellowstone Cutthroat, Rainbow, Brown, Brook and Cuttbow trout. The river is most easily accessible by using the park’s eastern access along US Highway 16.

It’s always great to support local businesses for all your fishing needs. Some options include Yellowstone River Outfitters in Livingston, High Alpine Anglers in Jackson Hole and Madison River Outfitters in West Yellowstone. There are also plenty of stores located around the Bozeman area that offer guides to lead you to some of the best spots in and around the park.

Cutthroat trout spawning above Trout Lake. NPS / Neal Herbert

THE BEARTOOTH PASS A DREAM

CLOTHED IN REALITY

By Alastair Baker Adams Publishing Group

Built between 1931 and 1936 the Beartooth Highway pours itself over the mountains like a silky stream of confectionary, inviting every traveler to treats that were once the preserve of birds and wildlife.

To travel the road, aptly honored by CBS travel correspondent Charles Kuralt as “The most beautiful road in America”, is to experience a canvas of colorful tones, rich scents and breathtaking views.

To understand and appreciate this impressive monument to engineering takes many trips to uncover its glorious veneer.

The Beartooth Highway begins its journey just outside Red Lodge, stretching as high as 10,974-feet, climbing over 4,000 in elevation over 10 miles, before it transforms into the Beartooth Pass to transport us to the doorstep of Cooke City and on to the northeastern entrance of Yellowstone National Park.

The actual mileage incurred is only 67 but don’t think the trip can be scanned over in an hour or less. This isn’t the internet highway, this is an old fashioned highway, one that likes you to take your time, and in fact insists on it with many a sumptuous curve, including one called Mae West.

The road is exhilarating whatever transportation you are using, the drama of the drive rivals any drama put to print, film or stage with at least 20 peaks at 12,000 feet to wind round and sheer drop offs at various points. Try this in a snowplow and the memory never leaves you.

But relax as it isn’t all driving, there are scenic turnouts that almost double as portrait galleries providing visitors the chance to stretch legs and quietly gaze at the canvas before them and take in the glacially carved cirques, vibrant wildflowers, the alpine lakes, waterfalls and the sheer intoxicating freshness of the air that makes you wish there was a sort of vineyard for it.

Rock Creek Vista is the first turnout affording views of Rock Creek Valley and the Hellroaring Plateau at a level

Vista Point provides an unforgettable view of the Beartooth Highway and surrounding landscape. Photo courtesy of mervcoleman.com

Spectacular views can be found on the Beartooth Highway. These lakes are near the ski towers. Photo courtesy of mervcoleman.com of 9,190 feet. And for those who miss winter skiing and snowboarding, further up the winding road is Beartooth Basin Summer Ski Area that allows for summer runs in midsummer with the promise of a 50 degree pitch.

From here you reach the plateau of the adventure, a fairly desolate wind swept vista whistling around an assortment of rock outgrowths, courtesy of the Ice Age, and where few trees dare to visit.

A short drive further on and this chameleon landscape changes to lakes and colorful mountain flowers. It’s as if Monet had decided to add some charm and warmth to the scenery and prepare you for a respite at the Top of the World Resort, residing between Island Lake and

Beartooth Lake.

Built in 1934 this resort appears out of sync with anything else around and is quite an eccentric stop with its cornucopia of ingredients ranging from being country store-gas station-RV hook-up-snowmobiles-ATV rentalsfish license to renting log cabins.

At this point the traveler is a mere 19 miles from Cooke City and within those miles comes a buffet-style menu of tempting stops from Clay Butte Lookout, built in 1942 and providing a view of the Absaroka Range; the Pilot and Index Peaks Overlook; the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway taking in Lake Creek and the historic L Bar T Ranch, a hangout of Ernest Hemingway; and Crazy Creek Falls, 11

miles from Cooke City, a 120 feet of plunging waters with a campground attached.

The list goes on and on and with it come campgrounds, picnic stops and a guest ranch built in 1933.

And at the end of the journey lies Cooke City, all evergreen lined streets and log cabined, and squeezed into a greenhouse of a valley. Inhabitants may number 100.

It is a rewarding stop for food and beverages and gives

the traveler the opportunity to get out and explore by any means possible and it is only 4 miles from the jewel in the Beartooth Pass crown, Yellowstone National Park.

There’s also usually a bison parade at some point.

So take a detour from this busy world and immerse yourself in the ambrosia that the Beartooth Pass has to offer.

You’ll never regret it nor forget it.

The Beartooth Pass highway winds its way toward Pilot and Index Peaks. Photo courtesy of mervcoleman.com

A NIGHT OUTDOORS

Variety of options for those who want to spend a night in Yellowstone

By Dan Astin Adams Publishing Group

Yellowstone National Park has many opportunities for backpacking and camping at established sites from tents or vehicles.

There are 12 developed “front country” campgrounds in the park, amounting to more than 2,150 car-accessible campsites, which are typically open in summer months. Three of the park’s campsites, the Norris, Pebble Creek and Tower Fall locations are closed in 2024.

The price for each campsite ranges from $20-$39 per night. Spots in the Fishing Bridge RV Park can be as high

as $99.

All campsites in the park must be reserved in-advance. It can be a challenge for visitors to find campsites with availability during the park’s peak season, from June through September. Officials recommend visitors with established itineraries make reservations as far ahead of time as possible.

Four campsites, Indian Creek, Lewis Lake, Mammoth and Slough Creek are open in 2024, and are reservable through Recreation.gov, a campsite booking website and phone application, run in conjunction with the National Park Service. The other five campgrounds open in the

Backcountry camping along Hellroaring Creek. Photo courtesy of NPS Jacob W. Frank

park in 2024 are Bridge Bay, Canyon, Fishing Bridge RV Park, Grant Village and Madison. These campsites must be reserved through the Yellowstone National Park lodge system, Yellowstonenationalparklodges. com.

The geography of each camping location affords different opportunities for those seeking to experience Yellowstone’s outdoors. Slough Creek, located in the national park’s Lamar Valley, is famous for wildlife encounters. Wildlife frequently spotted roaming the Lamar Valley include wolves, coyotes, pronghorn, badgers, grizzly bears, bald eagles, osprey, deer, coyotes, and bison herds, which can number up to 30 individuals. For those wishing to see Yellowstone’s famous geysers, the Grant Village and Madison campgrounds are great options, as they are close to the Old Faithful, Upper, Midway, and Lower Geyser Basins.

For those traveling to or from Grand Teton National Park in Wyoming, the Headwaters Campground at Flagg Ranch is only two miles south of Yellowstone and five miles north of Grand Teton. The campground has facilities for tent campers and RVs.

BACKCOUNTRY CAMPING

There are hundreds of miles of trails and over 300 designated backcountry campsites in Yellowstone. Permits are required for all overnight stays in the backcountry. Backcountry permits are only valid for the dates, locations and party size specified on each application. Permits must be picked up in person no more than 48 hours before a trip.

In general, the best season for backpacking is June through September. Prime seasons vary by trail and trip, as conditions throughout the park can vary. Visitors before June can encounter snow, while rivers run high during snowmelt periods. Backpackers after September should be prepared for winter conditions and potentially heavy snowfall.

Campers should be wary of and consider grizzly bears when planning a trip to Yellowstone. Campers must know how to hang their food, keep campsites clean and hike with caution, per officials. While in the backcountry, traveling in medium to large groups of 4-10 people is recommended. Backcountry campers must hike, camp, and cook in grizzly country using safe methods. All hikers should carry bear spray, sleep in different clothes than what they were cooking in and keep scented items out of tents.

For these reasons, it is highly recommended campers inexperienced with Yellowstone’s backcountry conditions join a guided backpacking trip.

Backcountry permits are available online from May 15-October 31, more than two days in-advance. Walkup permits are typically available seven days a week, from 8:00 a. m.-4:30 p.m., June through August. Walk-up permits are available at the following locations: Bechler Ranger Station, Bridge Bay Ranger Station, Canyon

Visitor Center, Grant Village Visitor Center, Old Faithful Range Station, South Entrance Ranger Station Tower Backcountry Office, West Yellowstone Visitor Information Center.

Yellowstone Backcountry Office staff can answer trip planning questions at (307) 344-2160.

Mammoth Hot Springs is one of several campgrounds located in Yellowstone. Photo courtesy of NPS/Neal Herbert

ON THE HUNT

Hunting fox, Hayden Valley. NPS / Neal Herbert

Bison along Rose Creek in Lamar Valley. NPS / Neal Herbert

A male bison near Pelican Valley. Photo courtesy of NPS/ Jacob W. Frank Bull elk bugling on a frosty morning in Canyon area. NPS/Eric Johnston

Hikers near Pleasant Valley. NPS / Jacob W. Frank

ONE MONTANANS JOURNEY THROUGH YELLOWSTONE

By Melody Montgomery Adams Publishing Group

Iwas a young girl when 800,000 acres of Yellowstone National Park burned. I had not even ever been there yet that I recall, but that fire was etched in my memory. It was a sad feeling. I recall a National Geographic photo series of the flowers and new growth after the fire, the regeneration of life.

I was probably in my teens when I truly visited the park. I did see the aftermath of the fire but the Park was alive. I went with my grandparents and cousins on a family trip. I don’t remember all of it, but I do remember Old Faithful and a lodge my grandmother took us to. She worked there one summer after high school when she was a girl.

When I was still in high school, my grandmother sold paintings one day at the Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center at West Yellowstone, another park entrance.

I had been staying with her for the summer. I helped at her booth and had a great time meeting Livingston Artist Parks Reese, who had a booth next to us. He went on to be a well-known artist in Southwest, Montana. He gave me a copy of his book, which I still have.

When I was out of high school, several of college friends were studying forestry and were outdoor enthusiasts. I was invited on a trip cross country skiing in Yellowstone. I do not recall the landscape or critters, not as much as falling in a creek and getting my socks wet. Fortunately a member of our party had two pairs on and loaned me one. He went onto work at the Park, and when I lived in

Bozeman in my 20s, I would make trips over to visit and catch up. He lived near Mammoth in what looked like an old fort. We would swim in the Boiling River. I also appreciated that he took me on hikes off the beaten path.

Before this time, I lived in Red Lodge right after college. He he worked for the Forest Service there. We spent many trips on the Beartooth Highway and onto Cooke City, another entrance to the Park.

Yellowstone Park has always intrigued me most by its geothermal activity. I have seen moose, wolves, bison and elk there, but the terraces at Mammoth stand out to me. During covid I visited them again.

Pre-covid, I lived in Livingston, after a sojourn in Texas and Nebraska. I kept my annual park pass active then , and on quiet weekends, I would drive through the park again. Old

Traveling along the Yellowstone River on the way to the Park. Photo by Melody Montgomery

Faithful is not open in the winter, that road anyway, so I would drive to Lamar Valley.

Winter in Yellowstone stands out to me more than summer, maybe because I have spent more time in the winter there, and there are fewer people. It’s not crowded. It seems more civilized.

Visitors to Yellowstone have been increasing steadily, I guess myself included, but my idea of a perfect weekend getaway is a quiet winter trip to Chico, maybe a nice VRBO in Paradise Valley, and a drive to the park and hike around the terraces when you feel like you are the only one there in a vast and wild place.

The author’s son enjoys a day at Mammoth Hot Springs.

Photo by Melody Montgomery

Geothermal features at Yellowstone National Park. Photos by Melody Montgomery

SNOWMOBILE

By Patrick Bouman Adams Publishing Group

When the roads through Yellowstone close to car traffic for the snowy winter months, snowmobiling is one of the only ways visitors can see the park’s most popular attractions.

Some locals also said it’s one of the best ways to experience the park’s winter beauty.

Yellowstone opens to snowmobiles when there is enough snow, which is usually from mid-December to mid-March, the park website said. Several rental companies are allowed to lead snowmobile tours into the park. Other groups and individuals who want to snowmobile in Yellowstone have to apply to a lottery system that only lets a handful of people into the park each day.

Kennedy Brown, a general manager with Yellowstone Vacation Tours, is part of one company that can lead snowmobiles into the park’s west entrance. The business

offers equipment rentals and customized tours depending on what visitors want to see.

Old Faithful and other thermal pools are still popular attractions in the winter, Brown said. He added that there are plenty of chances to see wildlife along waterways like the Madison River.

“I absolutely love Norris Geyser Basin,” Brown said. “In the wintertime or the summertime, that’s one of my favorite spots there. But also I spent a lot of time living at Old Faithful, and just going in and seeing Old Faithful in the wintertime when the crowds are so low, it’s just absolutely amazing.”

Near the east entrance of the park, Gary Fales Outfitting is another business offering snowmobile rentals and guided tours. Dede Fales runs the business with her husband, Gary. Many visitors like to take multi-day snowmobile tours and stay in the park’s lodges, she said.

People enjoy riding snowmobiles along Sylvan Pass, which provides access to the park from the east entrance, Fales said.

Snowmobilers pass a group of bison near Norris Geyser Basin Overlook. Photo courtesy of NPS / Jacob W. Frank

“It’s quite a spectacular way to get into the park,” she said.

Fales said her personal favorite spot in the park while snowmobiling is the Yellowstone Lake Overlook.

The park closed to snowmobiles a few different times during the winter of 2023-24 because of low snow, Brown said. Luckily, tour companies still had access to “hundreds of miles” of groomed trails in the areas surrounding the park, Brown said. Yellowstone Vacation Tours is also licensed to run tours with snowcoaches, which are like buses specially equipped to drive in snow.

“This was a little bit of a weird year,” he said. “We had low snow conditions for a lot of it. Yellowstone kind of closed down for snowmobiling for a section of time, but we were still riding snowmobiles outside of the park and still running our snowcoach tours, which is a big draw for us.”

If people want to snowmobile in Yellowstone without one of the licensed tour companies, they will have to apply to the park’s Non-commercially Guided Snowmobile Access Program. The lottery program permits up to four people – one at each entrance – into the park each day, the park website said.

Brown said people need to make sure their snowmobiles follow emissions and noise standards to be eligible for the lottery.

It’s important for people to consider their clothing for going on a snowmobile tour, Fales said. The outfitter provides outerwear, but people should bring enough layers to stay warm underneath them, she added.

The Yellowstone National Park website lists almost a dozen businesses that are licensed to lead snowmobile tours in the park and includes other helpful information for visiting snowmobilers to know.

317 W. Main St. Bozeman, MT 59715 (406)522-8122

Step back in time and visit Gallatin County’s past.

The Gallatin History Museum is located in the former county jail building, used from 1911 to 1982 and listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Permanent and changing exhibits feature early area history and artifacts, unique local stories, photography, and jail and law enforcement displays.

Hours & Admission

Summer Hours: Tue - Sat, 10am - 5pm

Winter Hours: Wed - Sat, 10am - 4pm

General - $10.00

Military, Senior, and Youth - Discounted Gallatin Historical Society Members - Free Please see our website for current hours and admission prices. gallatinhistorymuseum.org

A coyote pauses on the Daisy Geyser boardwalk in Yellowstone National Park. Photo courtesy NPS/Jacob W. Frank

YELLOWSTONE WITHOUT THE CROWDS

Tips for enjoying the Park with fewer people and more solitude

By Deb Hill Adams Publishing Group

‘Yellowstone is not my favorite,” a friend told me recently when discussing a trip to see national parks in Montana. “There’s too much traffic and way too many people.”

If that’s been your impression, read on because there are tricks to catching the best of America’s first national park, if you are willing to make a few adjustments. Ever since it was established in 1872, Yellowstone National Park has been a magnet for visitors. It’s easy to see what draws them — within the park boundaries are

more than 500 active geysers, 290 waterfalls, an active volcano and 67 species of wildlife.

Visitation grows annually, with nearly 5 million people entering the park in 2021. That can mean a lot of congestion and large crowds…not really the national park experience some of us are looking for.

The good news is there are still plenty of opportunities to experience the “real” Yellowstone, and here’s how.

PICK YOUR ENTRANCE

There are five entrances to Yellowstone National Park. If you want to avoid crowds, use the entrances that see the

Snow covers the high country on a quiet day in the Madison River Valley. Visiting the park in the fall is a great time to see wildlife without the large crowds of summer. Photo by Deb Hill

fewest visitors — the Northeast and East entrances.

The Northeast Entrance is near Cooke City, Montana, a tiny berg (population 100) but with some dining and lodging options available, a grocery store and two gas stations. From Billings the Beartooth Highway to Cooke City is a spectacularly scenic drive. The highway is closed in the winter.

The East Entrance, out of Cody, Wyoming leads visitors right to Yellowstone Lake, 131 square miles of pristine water located in the Yellowstone Caldera. Cody, population 10,174 in 2021, is large enough to provide all the resources needed as a base camp for day trips into the park.

TRY OFF-BEAT DESTINATIONS

Yellowstone is famous for its geothermal features, especially Old Faithful geyser and Mammoth Hot Springs. The vast majority of visitors are going to be massed in these areas or moving between them. But with 3,437 square miles of park accessed by 466 miles of road, there’s a whole lot of territory to explore. The further you get from the more well-known features, the fewer people you’ll see.

Looking for wildlife? You can’t avoid bison herds, which you’ll see on almost every trip to the park, but if you want something more unique, head for the Lamar River valley in the northeast corner of the park. Known as the Serengeti of the U.S., the valley is home to herds of bison, elk and pronghorn antelope, and their predators — coyotes, wolves and grizzly bears. Pullouts along the roadside allow for wildlife viewing, although the mere act of pulling over can cause a small crowd of vehicles to amass. If you see such a crowd, slow down and scan the area — could be a wolf pack or grizzly bear.

Want to see geothermal features? Try the Norris Geyser Basin, where Steamboat Geyser may erupt (it’s a bit unpredictable), and the Artist’s Paintpots bubble colorfully. This area is much less congested than the features nearer to Old Faithful. There’s a 1-mile trail to the Paintpots, which means the vast majority of visitors won’t go there.

Just by venturing off the park’s main roads, you can lose most of the traffic. For example, Riverside Drive is a short loop right on the banks of the Madison River, not far from the busy West Entrance to the Park. It’s incredibly scenic, and you can often see trumpeter swans on the water yet rarely will you see another vehicle. Check your park map for other less-traveled road options. By avoiding the “big name” features and major travel routes, you’ll escape the majority of the crowds and congestion.

AVOID PEAK SEASONS

The vast majority of Yellowstone’s visitors arrive between June and September. If you are not afraid to take a chance on some less-than-perfect weather, you can avoid almost all crowds by traveling in the shoulder seasons (spring and late fall) or, if you are really adventurous, winter.

Yellowstone in the fall is spectacular, and the crowds really thin out after Labor Day. Early October is a pretty safe weather bet most years. You may hit some snow but likely it won’t stick and any storms are usually short, with sun breaking through to highlight fall colors.

November, while it may be chilly and overcast, can be a good time to view major park features. I’ve stood with fewer than 10 other people to watch Old Faithful erupt in late November, and the plume of geyser water against the dark storm clouds was nothing less than breathtaking.

If you have the gear for it, why not try a winter adventure? The road from Gardiner, Montana (North Entrance) to Cooke City (Northeast Entrance) is open all winter, unless a massive storm requires snow removal. Stay at a lodge outside the park and plan a cross-country ski or snowshoe trip, and you’ll see plenty of wild Yellowstone.

GET UP WITH THE SUN

Mid-day is, of course, when Yellowstone’s roads are at their busiest. The amount of traffic can be crazy, and you’ll spend more time watching the bumper of the vehicle in front of you than seeing the park.

A rain-soaked bison makes his way along one of the Yellowstone roadways. Photo by Deb Hill

But even if you are visiting at the peak of July, you can avoid the worst of the crowds by getting up and out early. Geysers, thermal pools and waterfalls are active round the clock, and an added bonus to a pre-dawn viewing is the opportunity to see more wildlife. Many of the park’s wildlife species are most active at dawn and dusk, so drive carefully and watch for foxes, wolves or bobcats.

USE YOUR FEET

You can see some interesting sights traveling the park by car, but you’ll see a lot more — and avoid the majority of other visitors — if you are willing to get out of your vehicle and walk. Many locations in Yellowstone are accessible by well-maintained trails, such as the Gibbon Falls Wildlife Trail (with views of the Gibbon Falls) or the Brink of Lower Falls trail (steep but with amazing views of the lower Yellowstone falls).

Those who truly want to leave the crowds behind can consider a day hike or backpacking. The park contains close to 1,000 miles of trails including the most remote location in the contiguous U.S. — the Thorofare Ranger Station in the southeast corner of the park is over 30 miles from the nearest park road. This is your

destination if you want to leave the rest of the world behind.

FIND A GUIDE

Not sure about navigating the backroads and trails of Yellowstone on your own? Why not hire a guide? Reputable guiding services are available in the larger gateway communities. Guide services provide tours ranging from geothermal features to specialized wildlife viewing to horse pack trips. The best services hire expert guides who can explain the geology, history and natural history of the park. These tour guides know exactly where to see wolf packs or how to find the least visited hot springs. Full day or partial day tours are available, and most include breakfast, lunch or dinner. Check reviews before you book to ensure the tour is a good match for your abilities and interests.

The 3,438 square miles of Yellowstone National Park form the core of the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem, one of the largest nearly intact temperate zone ecosystems on Earth. It’s worth a few minor travel adjustments to experience the “real” Yellowstone in all its wild and spectacular glory.

Old Faithful is spectacular any time of the year.. Photos by Deb Hill The Orange Spring Mound is one of many unique features in the park..

ON THE EDGE OF PARADISE

Downtown Livingston Montana is a great stop on your to or from Yellowstone National Park. Photo by John Carroll

Livingston Montana is the perfect stop on your way to Yellowstone

By John Carroll Adams Publishing Group

AAbout an hour away from Yellowstone National Park, on the other side of Paradise Valley, exists a city called Livingston, a railroad and blue-collar mountain town with an artsy and cowboy influence. The famous Yellowstone River runs through Livingston and part of the Lewis & Clark Expedition passed through here leaving a historic mark.

Founded in 1882, Livingston was established by the Northern Pacific Railroad, which built a hub here for easy travel to the north entrance of Yellowstone Park. Once a sleepy hamlet on the edge of paradise, Livingston has blossomed into a diverse and bustling small-town that has attracted people from all over the U.S.

Downtown Livingston is lined with old-school mid-rise brick buildings, most built during the railroad heyday era. Now, these historic and unique structures are occupied by hotels, nightclubs, art galleries, restaurants, condos, coffee shops, and retail shops. Many of the exterior brick walls are dotted with iconic advertising signs and decorated with with more modern-day murals. With a population of about 8,800, Livingston has always supported its independent small businesses. Throughout the town, you will find a dozen mom-andpop coffee shops, four independent bookstores, dozens of locally-owned restaurants and pubs, and a variety of local retail stores and art galleries. The city is also

known for its eclectic mix of live music, entertainment venues — such as the Shane Lalani Center for the Arts — and film industry impact. Filmmakers love shooting Western movies and other outdoors-related cinema in the mountainous and scenic region. Some movies filmed in and around Livingston include “A River Runs Through It,” “The Horse Whisperer,” “Murder at Yellowstone City,” and most recently, “Mending the Line.”

Ranchers and cowboys will always be the backbone of the culture in Park County of which Livingston is the county seat. In the summer of 2024, the city will celebrate the 100th anniversary of the Livingston Roundup Rodeo at the Park County Fairgrounds. The Livingston Rodeo is one of the biggest and most popular rodeos in the state. Even the fictitious Dutton family from the hit show “Yellowstone” has attended the Livingston Rodeo.

Always a gateway town to Yellowstone National Park, Livingston is a vibrant river and mountain town that attracts many visitors and tourists, especially during the peak summer season.

A mural in downtown Livingston highlights the town’s connection to Yellowstone. Photo by Sean Batura

Ranger Terrance explains the mechanics of geysers, while a “grand” example erupts in the background. NPS / Neal Herbert

Taking a photo of Lower Falls from Artist Point. NPS / Jacob W. Frank

Milky Way rising over the Roosevelt Arch at the park entrance near Gardiner Montana. Photo courtesy NPS/ Jacob W. Frank

A land of Wonder

PHOTO COURTESY OF NPS/NEAL HERBERT

A large crowd gathers for one of Yellowstone’s most popular attractions: Old Faithful. The reliable geyser is just one of many incredible geothermal features in the Park.