ANDROMODE 2014
UNITY UNITY UNITY PHOTOGRAPHY + STYLING Bethany Watson MODELS Marc Ainley + Jade Kemp
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ANDROGYNOUS MODELS: FASHION’S LOVE AFFAIR OR A PUBLICITY PLOY?
In February 2014, the JC Jeans Company launched a new campaign featuring androgynous model Erika Linder, which spread like wildfire across the globe. Posing believably as both a male and a female, Linder seemingly succeeded in challenging gender stereotypes. The groundbreaking campaign became a media sensation, exposing the brand to consumers worldwide. The JC Jeans Company message stated that it aimed to ‘inspire creativity and confidence as we set out to break new boundaries in the fashion industry’. But are we right to believe them? Some argue that society is evolving and becoming more accepting of and interested in non-traditional gender roles. Gender equality is a hot topic in today’s media - Emma Watson’s HeForShe speech clearly demonstrates that men and women are striving for the same treatment and opportunities. This sentiment surely crosses over into the fashion industry, with consumers demanding unisex approaches to clothing and the way it is presented. Some designers have embraced gender-blurring wholeheartedly, creating wearable unisex pieces showcased on androgynous models.
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Jean Paul Gaultier is a fashion innovator who often experiments with gender in his collections. Gaultier’s AW11 menswear show juxtaposed James Bond’s masculinity with the sexual-objectification he receives. Featured in the show was none other than Andreja Pejic, figurehead of the androgynous modelling movement. Appearing shirtless in a suit and flowing golden locks, Pejic was every inch the androgynous Bond. However, Gaultier had a surprise, with Pejic returning as the ultra-glamorous ‘James Blond’ – clad in gold heels and stockings. The media applauded this gender-fluid approach to fashion and the use of the inspirational Andreja for the shocking finale. Given Jean Paul Gaultier’s history with ‘gender-bending’, working with Pejic seems genuine. Similarly, Rick Owens’ androgynous aesthetic means using gender-fluid Elliot Sailors in his SS15 show was authentic, and Tigi’s use of Sailors alongside a ‘Be You Be True’ campaign is also in fitting with its brand message. Nevertheless, skepticism is rife on the subject of
With the use of gender-fluid models on the rise, we investigate whether fashion designers’ motives are as innocent as they seem. By Bethany Watson.
fashion designers’ inclusion of androgynous models. It would be foolish to ignore the fact that using a gender-fluid model leads to increased publicity. Andreja was voted the 16th most influential model of the moment and has a staggering 72.3k Twitter followers. PR guru Laura McCluskey, says, “Designers featuring androgynous models with established followings is a smart PR move. The campaign will be viewed in many cases solely for use of the model.” It’s true – almost every article about Linder mentions JC Jeans Company. Other brands have clearly noticed this - we have seen the likes of DKNY and Gucci utilising gender-blurring models. Controversy arises when this ‘statement’ goes against a brand’s narrative. Why should we believe that these brands are genuine when their advertising denotes the over-sexualisation of women and ‘girl power’?
about. Is the future bright for androgynous models? With gender diversity increasing, it is possible that fashion will embrace gender ambiguity, using many gender fluid models. This would remove the ‘shock factor’, filtering out genuine supporters from fakers. However, if androgyny somehow lost its appeal, the flurry of fake supporters would vanish, crushing demand for androgynous models. Model Ivan Fahy says, “Androgynous models should reflect humanity and diversity. There are lives and stories behind us being androgynous, but in reality we are often used as novelties.”
Put simply, brands geared towards feminine women showing models like Pejic is nothing but exploitation for publicity. Gucci and DKNY rarely speak out for gender diversity. Instead, they profit from something that many people feel passionate
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PHOTOGRAPHY + STYLING Bethany Watson
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MODELS Holly Pepper + Adika Graham
THE DUEL SOCIETY VS. ANDROGYNY - WHO IS YOUR VICTOR? 11
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ANDROMODE PROMOTES A LIFE FREE FROM GENDER CONSTRAINTS, PREJUDICE AND DISCRIMINATION. WE UNITE TO FIGHT AGAINST SOCIETAL NORMS, TO EMBRACE OUR TRUE SELVES. WE ARE ONE.
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