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The

FRENCH

Edition Art de Vivre

CHAMPAGNE,

BRITTANY BURGUNDY

ISSN 1837-6002

9

2 8

771837 600008

$11.95 (Aust & NZ) GST inclusive

MONACO · LONDON HOUSE OF DIOR

NEW CALEDONIA FRENCH POLYNESIA

World Leader of

Luxury Expeditions 9h45 13° 09’ 47.31’’ Sud 72° 32’ 41.87’’ Ouest

TRANSFORM

YOUR WORLD

Photographs © PONANT Nick Rains, Jean-Philippe Nuel, Mick Fogg, Lorraine Turci. ABN: 35 166 676 517

EXPERIENCE LUXURY SMALL SHIP EXPEDITIONS WITH THE FRENCH TOUCH The Arctic – Antarctica – The Kimberley – The Sub Antarctic Islands – Melanesia – Latin America In the heart of remote regions, far from crowded maritime routes, your specialist PONANT Expedition team will introduce you to a world of pristine nature and fascinating ancestral cultures. Marvel at some of the most unspoiled places on our planet, and enjoy Zodiac® outings and maximum time ashore, with many voyages featuring UNESCO-listed sites and visits that stimulate mind, body and soul.

Experience a unique combination of French lifestyle, refined adventure, comfort and intuitive service, sailing on modern small ships, featuring just 92 to 132 luxurious staterooms & suites.

Aboard, you will feel this French Touch in the design and décor, service and gastronomy with our carefully selected partners: Ladurée macarons, Lenôtre sweet pastries, Veuve Clicquot champagne, Fragonard mood fragrances and Hermes bath products. Enjoy an Open Bar, relaxed lifestyle and all the facilities of the world’s leading luxury expedition ships.

Zodiac® trips among majestic glaciers in Antarctica, wildlife observation in the Sub Antarctic Islands, remote villages and tribes in the Pacific, the vibrant cultures of Latin America... which luxury expeditions will you choose?

To select from more than 80 luxury small ship expeditions visit au.ponant.com Contact your Travel Agent or our PONANT Cruise Consultants on: 1300 737 178 (AUS) | reservations.aus@ponant.com | au.ponant.com

Your Next Adventure Awaits There are holidays and there are adventures. The Real America offers both. Whether your ideal vacation involves a ride down thundering whitewater rapids or simply gazing at the spectacular scenery, the Rocky Mountain States of Montana, North Dakota, South Dakota and Wyoming offer the perfect canvas upon which to paint the western holiday of your dreams.

From the Black Hills of South Dakota to the ski slopes of Jackson Hole, Wyoming; Montana’s Glacier National Park to the expanses of North Dakota’s Theodore Roosevelt National Park, revel in the unspoiled natural beauty of the American West. Take part in a cattle roundup, stay at a ranch, immerse yourself in Native American culture or enjoy old-fashioned fun at a rodeo; in the Real America your western dreams are just a gallop away.

RealAmerica.com.au

Mount Rushmore National Memorial, South Dakota

World-Class Skiing in Jackson Hole, Wyoming

Glacier National Park, Montana

Theodore Roosevelt National Park, North Dakota

India Tourism Sydney, Level 1, 133 Castlereagh Street (accessible from 210 Pitt Street) Sydney, NSW 2000 Ph +61 2 9267 2466 Website: www.incredibleindia.org Email: info@indiatourism.com.au

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Contents SIGNATURES

12

EDITOR’S LETTER

14

CONTRIBUTORS

46

ART TRAIL

40

LUST HAVES

112

HIGHFLYER

149

SIGNATURE PEOPLE

144

SUBSCRIBE & WIN

162

ONLINE EXCLUSIVE

FEATURES

48

KRISTINA MAKEEVA We interview the Russian photographer who shot our gorgeous cover about her magical techniques

98

LONDON The cosmopolitan capital seduces a first-time visitor with fine dining, luxury hotels and captivating history

102

ABU DHABI From the shifting dunes of the desert to the modern beauty of the city, the UAE is a place of extremes

106

NEW ZEALAND Lake Taupo is the perfect combination of indulgent accommodation and outdoors adventures

WIN

SIGNATURE WELLBEING

152

BEAUTY

The latest beauty finds we’re coveting

SIGNATURE CONCIERGE

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The hotel openings we’re most looking forward to this year, cruise news, travel trends from Virtuoso, travel essentials, Lamborghini’s SUV, classic cars in Japan, highflying tours by private jet, island-hopping in WIN Hawaii, win the latest wine gadget from Coravin

EDITOR’S PICK

Our cover image

Russian photographer Kristina Makeeva captures singer and actor Vera Brezhneva on the marble steps of Paris’ opulent Palais Garnier opera house. Read about the shoot on page 48.

WIN

© Bal du Moulin Rouge 2018 - Moulin Rouge® - 1-1028499

LA REVUE DU PLUS CÉLÈBRE CABARET DU MONDE ! - THE SHOW OF THE MOST FAMOUS CABARET IN THE WORLD!

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RIVERS AND CANALS Why barging and river cruises are two of the best ways to experience the culture of France

90

FRENCH POLYNESIA Dive into some of the South Pacific’s most idyllic islands when you go beyond Bora Bora

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NEW CALEDONIA Our French neighbour is best explored above and below the sea

116 48 THE FRENCH EDITION

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44

GOYARD The French trunk-maker maintains an air of mystery that has only seen its appeal grow

52

PARIS Illustrator Megan Hess brings hand-drawn whimsy to the City of Lights

54

THE FRANCOFILE Rediscover France in style with our top 25 experiences, from supercars in Provence to cycling through Normandy

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CHAMPAGNE Medieval history and picturesque villages await those who look past the region’s famous sparkling wine

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BURGUNDY The Côte d’Or is a place of pilgrimage for wine connoisseurs and gourmands

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BRITTANY Out and about on the hiking trails and sailing routes of France’s Celtic region

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MONACO From the dining to the spa experiences, no other destination does luxury quite like Monte-Carlo

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BUGATTI As we mark the arrival of the Chiron, look back at the French car maker’s fascinating history

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FRENCH ALPS Everything you need to know about planning a five-star ski getaway in France

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RIVER CRUISE Sailing along the Rhône and the Saône through Provence and Burgundy with Tauck

85

YACHT Palmer Johnson has created the ultimate matching accessory for your Bugatti Chiron

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OCEAN CRUISE Experience the Côte d’Azur (and more) with this selection of voyages

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HOUSE OF DIOR The maison has reigned as an icon of haute couture for 70 years

EDITOR’S PICK

EDITOR’S PICK

LEFT BANK FASHION Follow the example of the Parisians and choose a coat that shows off your personal style

124

JEWELLERY Chanel’s latest high jewellery collection reinterprets the nautical theme with a Coco twist

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WATCHES Louis Moinet, the father of the chronograph, is finally getting the recognition he deserves

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GOURMET ICONS elevate a cuisine

132

CHEESE Is anything more French than a baguette and brie?

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HOW TO BUY CHAMPAGNE A guide to the vintages and styles to purchase this year

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CHÂTEAU DU GRAND-LUCÉ An 18th-century estate is restored with sensitivity and flair

146

MICE Cycling is the new golf, and France is the ultimate place for some corporate bonding in lycra

154

SPAS The finest wellness centres of the French-speaking world to relax and recharge

132

We celebrate the little things that

Go to France before you go to France. www.france.fr NEW WEBSITE

airfrance.com.au

Welcome to l’édition française When it comes to France there is so much to love: the food, the people, the scenery, that seductive French accent. It is this, and more, that renders us Francophiles and makes so many travellers crave French experiences.

As such, it has been sheer joy to work on this issue of Signature where we celebrate all things French. Our writers have travelled from Paris to Monaco via Champagne, Burgundy and Brittany, bringing you a veritable feast of beauty and discovery, rounded out with a list of the top 25 French experiences and our guide to exploring the French waterways by ocean liner, river cruise and barge.

“TWO THERE ARE WHO ARE NEVER SATISFIED: THE LOVER OF THE WORLD, AND THE LOVER OF KNOWLEDGE.” – Rumi Of course, France isn’t the only place to enjoy living à la française. In French Polynesia, we go beyond Bora Bora to dive into the waters of lesser-known islands, while in New Caledonia, we soak up the tropical landscape and crystal-clear waters from a joy flight and the superyacht Masteka 2.

Our thanks goes out to Patrick Benhamou of Atout France (the French Tourist Board), Alison Roberts Brown of Monaco Tourism, Robert Thompson and Camille de Laitre of Tahiti Tourisme, and Caroline Brunel of GTI/New Caledonia Tourism for making this issue possible.

It would be impossible to celebrate luxury in French culture, however, without a nod to Alsace-based car maker, Bugatti. The Chiron hypercar is

on the road this year and, to our delight, we could see one on Australian streets in 2019, following a change to our vehicle regulations. (You can even purchase a yacht to match – see page 85.)

Decadence is also the theme of our stunning cover image, captured

by Russian photographer Kristina Makeeva at Paris’ opulent Palais Garnier opera house. We share more of her magical work on page 48.

Most of this issue, as you will see, has a French flavour, however, we have also had time to cover other fascinating destinations and Virtuoso’s trending travel destinations for 2018.

To cap off 2017, I am honoured to announce that we are now the highest circulating, CAB-audited luxury travel and lifestyle publication in Australia. This achievement would not be possible without our readers and distribution partners, who we thank whole-heartedly.

We wish you and your family happy and safe travels and an exciting 2018.

Cathy Wagstaff, Editor cathywagstaff@signaturemedia.com.au @cathywagstaff_signatureluxury @signatureluxurytravel

FOLLOW US

Please tag us in your Instagram posts so that we may share your travels to inspire our followers. Our covers have been getting quite a lot of love with some great flat lays and we would love to see yours.

Where the waters of Skรณgafoss are delivered by nature and the grapes of Champagne are delivered by your dedicated sommelier.

Intimate ships

Award-winning cuisine

Open bars & fine wines

EX T RAORDIN ARY WORLDS

All suite

signaturecontributors

SALLY MACMILLAN

JANE CORNWELL

DILVIN YASA

JOHN MALATHRONAS

Cruise specialist and travel addict Sally has sailed on ships of all sizes and styles, from a 33-foot yacht through Indonesia to cruising the Caribbean on the world’s biggest cruise ship. Sally is Fairfax Media’s Cruise Director.

Jane is an Australian-born, London-based writer and journalist. She is the jazz critic of the London Evening Standard, contributing editor of world music magazine Songlines, and a correspondent for News Ltd and Fairfax.

Dilvin is a journalist, author and mother of two who, over a 20-year career, has had articles published around the globe from Denmark to Dubai.

Off-duty, Dilvin enjoys zombie movies, tragic ‘80s music and copious amounts of coffee.

John is a freelance travel writer who speaks several languages fluently and is very active in the social media sphere with a well-regarded blog, The Jolly Traveller. He has also authored or co-authored 16 books.

My most memorable travel experience was… spending a

My most memorable travel experience was… the Solomon

My most memorable travel experience was… on safari

My most memorable travel experience was… in NZ’s Franz

year backpacking around India, Afghanistan, Sri Lanka and Nepal, although France is my favourite country.

Islands: sailing six hours across the ocean in a dinghy with an outboard motor, to interview a bamboo band in their village.

in Kenya. I was mesmerised by the creatures before me.

Never before had I felt such a connection to our planet.

Josef glacier. I had never worn crampons before, but I managed to climb the glacier and survived unscathed.

For the Modern Globetrotter.

Constant briefcase

Monaco Weekender

Mod Tablet

Ultra light weight and waterproof Slide over sleeve for attaching to luggage Hand polished brass hardware and full length double zipper

For the frequent traveller.

Ultra light weight and waterproof, quick access pockets, luggage attachable.

Italian leather travel compendium: passports, boarding passes, currency and more.

Shop now at gallantoro.com.au Customised company logo monogramming available on Mod Tablet’s; enquire via assistance@gallantoro.com

14

“I am the egg of the world… the first-born, the light of the sky.”

– The Egyptian Book of The Dead

EGYPT REDUX !

Everything old is new again. Right now, the world’s original travel destination is showing signs of a remarkable resurgence. The latest report from our Cairo office paints an optimistic picture of the country’s stability and renewed traveller interest. If you’re ready to book and travel soon, you can still beat the inevitable return of the crowds and find extraordinary travel experiences at remarkable value.

Abercrombie & Kent has been creating unforgettable journeys through Egypt for more than 30 years, with our own fleet of luxury small ships plying the Nile, nine local offices and hundreds of A&K staff in Egypt alone, from security analysts to Egyptologists .

Book A&K’s ‘Treasures of Egypt’ private journey and save up to $725* (solo travellers) or $365* per person (twin share) on departures between 1 January and 27 March 2018. *Terms & Conditions apply.

Visit abercrombiekent.com.au for more information, talk to your travel agent or call A&K on 1300 851 925

abercrombiekent.com.au

signatureluxurytravel.com.au Publisher and Editor-in-Chief

Cathy Wagstaff cathywagstaff@signaturemedia.com.au @cathywagstaff—signatureluxury

Assistant Editor Sub-Editors Editorial Assistant Editorial Interns Contributors

Head Designer Designer Production Co-Ordinator Marketing Manager Digital Managers

Amelia Hungerford Kerryn Ramsey, Joanna Tovia Bronte Gossling Jacinta Counihan, Tayla O'Brien Dan Avila, Amy Campbell, Carolyn Boyd, Jane Cornwell, Natasha Dragun, Madeline Hoskin, Carolyn Lockhart, Belinda Luksic, Sally Macmillan, John Malathronas, Tamara Theissen, Joanna Tovia, Cara Wagstaff, Dilvin Yasa Gemma Kightly Alice Wilson Grace Cooper Cara Wagstaff Samantha Rowntree, Lisa Wagstaff

Director of Partnerships Tina-Louise Jackson Business Development Managers Colleen Hinch, Howard Shaw, Virginia Shirley

Sales Enquiries sales@signaturemedia.com.au

admin@signaturemedia.com.au

General Enquiries +61 2 9406 4400 Subscriptions subscriptions@signaturemedia.com.au Distribution

Sold in all major newsagents and by subscription. Distributed in Australia, New Zealand, Asia and the Middle East. Five-star hotels and resorts, airline lounges, inflight with Qatar Airways, luxury car dealerships, leading travel agents and Luxury Network members. Contact us for a full disbution list.

Circulation 33,000 – audited at 31,387

Signature Luxury Travel & Style magazine has been independently audited under the AMAA’s CAB Total Distribution Audit Audit period: 01/4/17–30/9/17

Connect with us @signatureluxurytravel Copyright 2017, Signature Media. All rights reserved. No part of the publication may be reproduced in whole or part without the written permission of the publishers. Signature Media makes no representation or warranties with respect to this magazine or its contents including, without limitation, material communicated by third parties. Signature Media does not warrant that the information available in this magazine is accurate, complete or current. Opinions expressed are those of the respective authors and not necessarily of the publisher. Neither Signature Media nor any persons involved in the preparation of this publication will be liable for any loss or damage as a result of use or reliance upon advice, representation, statement, opinion or conclusion expressed in Signature Luxury Travel & Style magazine. All care has been taken to ensure information contained in the magazine (including pricing and availability) is accurate, but the publisher cannot accept any responsibility for any errors or omissions which might occur. proud sponsors of

Published by Signature Media PO Box 1825 Chatswood NSW 2057 Australia

EMBARK ON AN EXCLUSIVE CRUISE TO

DISCOVER SOUTH AMERICA

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You deserve the best and the best is what you’ll experience on a Uniworld voyage to Europe, Russia, Asia, India and Egypt.

For more information please phone 1300 780 231 uniworld.com

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signatureconcierge

The hottest hotels of 2018

Tayla O’Brien presents 11 of the most exciting hotel openings around the world to look forward to in the New Year.

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5

Lutetia Paris

Where: Malolo, Fiji When: March 2018 Nestled on a secluded bay with 26 spacious pool villas plus 60 luxury residences (with three, four or five bedrooms), the resort will offer fine dining and have a focus on sustainability, with ingredients grown on the property or sourced locally. vunabaka.com

Where: Sixth arrondissement, Paris When: Spring 2018 Restored to its former Art Deco glory, this will be the largest hotel on the left bank, with a Jazz Bar, Cigar Bar and a dramatic internal courtyard. hotellutetia.com

2 Hawkstone Hall

Six Senses Fiji

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Four Seasons Hotel Kuala Lumpur

Where: Shropshire, UK When: Spring 2018 This Georgian mansion will be one of the most opulent hotels in the UK, with all 12 suites named after Jane Austen characters. hawkstonehall.co.uk

Where: Kuala Lumpur When: Mid-2018 Forming part of a 65-storey tower, the hotel will have 209 guest rooms, plus 27 serviced apartments. fourseasons.com

3

7 Wild Coast Tented Camp

Iraph Sui, A Luxury Collection Hotel

Where: Okinawa, Japan When: December 2018 Marriott’s first Japanese island resort will have 57 sea-view rooms and nine suites with plunge pools in an area renowned for scuba diving. luxurycollection.com

4

The Middle House

Where: Yala, Sri Lanka Opening: Winter 2017 The five-star safari experience is coming to the leopard-rich Yala National Park with 28 tented ‘cocoon’ suites fusing colonial details with contemporary innovation. resplendentceylon.com

Where: Shanghai, China When: Early 2018 With interiors by Milan-based designer Piero Lissoni, Swire Hotels’ fourth addition to The House Collective will blend Italian vision with a local twist from one of Asia’s most sophisticated cities, while welcoming the beloved signature restaurant Café Gray Deluxe. the-house-collective.com

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Montage Los Cabos

Where: Cabo San Lucas, Mexico When: Spring 2018 Set in Santa Maria Bay this will be Montage Hotels & Resorts’ first property outside of the US to join Preferred Hotels & Resorts. montagehotels.com

9

The Chedi Luštica Bay

Where: Luštica Bay, Montenegro When: Mid-2018 With views over the Adriatic Sea, The Chedi’s second European property will be the largest five-star resort on Boka Bay and the first of seven hotels in this new Montenegrin town. lusticabay.com

Rosewood Luang 10 Prabang

Where: Laos When: First quarter 2018 An uber-luxe experience 10 minutes from this beautiful city. The resort will feature 22 spacious villas, many with private pools. In a first for Rosewood, there will be luxury tents with open-air showers and large wraparound decks. rosewoodhotels.com

Komodo Resort, 11 AYANA Waecicu Beach Where: Komodo National Park, Indonesia When: Summer 2018 Debuting as the first five-star hotel in the Komodo Islands, this hilltop oasis will be one of the first to unlock this protected paradise with some of the richest and most untouched marine life in the world. ayana.com 20

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THE LAND OF THE RISING SUN BY SEA

Step aboard Hapag-Lloyd’s MS EUROPA 2 and experience the first-class service, elegantly decorated cabins and unforgettable moments that led to the 2018 Berlitz Cruise Guide lauding it ‘the best cruise ship in the world’. Perhaps most enticing, though, is EUROPA’s new itinerary, which will see the cruise liner set sail for Japan across 2019 and 2020.

Calling at hit-list destinations like Kobe, Nagasaki and the ever-vibrant Tokyo, the route promises for an unprecedented experience that melds high-end comfort with the contagious electricity of Japan’s most sought-after cities. hl-cruises.com

SAIL TO PITCAIRN

Located thousands of kilometres from the nearest continent, Pitcairn Island is untouched by modern civilisation, making it the envy of every seafarer worth his salt. Thanks to Aranui 5, travellers can experience the magic of the island first-hand in 2019 – from feeding the community’s only Galapagos tortoise to perusing the local Curio and Craft market. aranuicruises.com.au

Serenity on the ocean With the rising popularity of wellness tourism comes a cruise that blends spectacular sightseeing with the practice of mindfulness. Presented by ultra-luxury cruise line Seabourn, the Wellness Cruises with celebrated physician Dr Andrew Weil offer an itinerary focused on enhancing the inner wellbeing of travellers. With two voyages setting sail in 2018 – one bound for the serene shores of Alaska and the other destined for Greece – each itinerary features holistic demonstrations, interactive guides and panel discussions hosted by experts in the integrative medicine field. seabourn.com/wellness

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WHERE TO TRAVEL IN 2018 Australian jet-setters are aiming to “tick items off the bucket list” in 2018, revealed Virtuoso’s annual Luxe Report, citing that as the number-one motivation for people to see the world in the New Year.

The world’s largest network of luxury travel advisors also shared where we’ll be heading. Are these destinations on your radar this year? virtuoso.com

TOP FIVE ‘EMERGING DESTINATIONS’ Japan

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Iceland

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Portugal / Cuba

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Sri Lanka

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Norway

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MOST POPULAR GLOBAL DESTINATIONS Italy

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United States

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Whatever your plans, whether it’s a short break, the most intricate itinerary or anything in between, our experienced travel advisors take extra care of all the details to create your perfect travel experience.

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Japan

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Sri Lanka

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MOST POPULAR ADVENTURE DESTINATIONS •

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Antarctica

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New Zealand / Galapagos Islands South Africa / Peru

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Vietnam

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You’ll enjoy competitive rates plus extra benefits that are not available when you make your own bookings.

Give us a call, we’d love to help!

Canada

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Experience the Mary Rossi Travel difference in every corner of the globe For more than 45 years Mary Rossi Travel has been turning travel dreams into reality.

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Chile / Botswana

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MOST POPULAR HONEYMOON DESTINATIONS

Sign up for monthly newsletters filled with inspiring ideas and luxury travel offers by visiting

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Maldives

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Fiji / Italy

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Thailand

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www.maryrossitravel.com/newsletter and registering your details

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Bali Maui

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MOST POPULAR MILLENNIAL DESTINATIONS Greece / Croatia

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1800 815 067 www.maryrossitravel.com

Vietnam / Bali

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SPECIALISTS IN THE ART OF TRAVEL

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New York / Thailand •

Cambodia

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Italy / Peru

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NEW CALEDONIA SAME DAY, DIFFERENT WORLD

you are

here

Lagoons of New Caledonia: Reef Diversity and Associated Ecosystems inscribed on the World Heritage List in 2008

Say hello to you next door neighbour!

New Caledonia, under 3 hours from Sydney, 2 from Brisbane and 4 from Melbourne, offers a dazzling and diverse range of environments.

From land steeped in ancient Kanak culture, to bustling cosmopolitan French cities, from sweeping inland savannahs to crystal seas and paradise beaches, each region has its own incredible beauty. Don’t know what to expect? Check out what the different neighbourhoods have to offer and discover the many worlds of New Caledonia. www.newcaledonia.travel

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Gaia’s gourmet delights

A highlight for many surrendering to Gaia Retreat & Spa in the Byron Bay hinterland is the uniqueness of its cuisine. Gaia Retreat & Spa has been recognised with its first foodie award, Global Winner “Health & Wellness Cuisine” at the World Luxury Spa & Restaurant Awards 2017. gaiaretreat.com.au

THE SUV WITH LAMBORGHINI GENES

Let your inner pragmatist and connoisseur unite inside the sleek, versatile interior of the world’s first Super Sport Utility vehicle. The Lamborghini Urus takes the traditional SUV and elevates it to the upper echelons of luxury; a four-litre V8 twin-turbo engine and the ability to reach 100 kilometres per hour in 3.6 seconds flat is sure to satisfy the sportsman, while its 4WD system, carbon ceramic brakes and adaptive air suspension promise maximum safety in every driving condition. Carving a new niche in high-end versatility while exuding Lamborghini DNA, the Urus is sure to delight every driving enthusiast torn between performance and practicality. lamborghini.com

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© Myles McGuinness

F L OW

There are many sides to The Islands of Tahiti. Yet they are all connected by Mana.

Mana is a life force and spirit that surrounds us. You can see it. Touch it.

Taste it. Feel it. And from the moment you arrive, you will understand why we say our Islands are

To discover Mana for yourself, visit TahitiTourisme.com.au

© Grégoire Le Bacon

EBB

signatureconcierge

For the modern man

Give your briefcase a contemporary refresh with Gallantoro’s sleek ‘This Is Ground’ Framework design. Sophisticated on the outside, functional on the inside, the bag blends the polished trimmings of a traditional briefcase with lightweight portability and a plethora of pockets, making it the perfect carry-all for every kind of commute. Available in Cognac, Toffee Tan and Black with the added option of custom monogramming, Framework is indeed a new breed of briefcase. gallantoro.com

THE SCARF FOR JET-SETTERS A soft, large scarf that can double as a plane blanket is a modern travel essential.

The Jet Set scarf from Everyday Cashmere is the perfect blend of cosy and chic. At two metres long and 75 centimetres wide, this 100 per cent cashmere creation effortlessly goes from casual to carry on, wrapping you in an ultra-light embrace on long-haul flights, a weekend getaway or your daily commute. Shop Everyday Cashmere’s range of travel-ready tops, wraps and lounge wear online or in person at the Castlecrag boutique. everydaycashmere.com

It’s everyone’s fantasy: a secluded boutique island retreat far from the trappings and technology of today’s fast-paced society. Royal Davui Island Resort Fiji is just that: a romantic, adults only paradise where guests luxuriate in total comfort and privacy, disconnect and reconnect.

One Island, One Resort, Unparalleled Privacy Bula Vinaka! – Welcome to Royal Davui Island Resort Fiji R o y a l D a v u i I s l a n d R e s o r t, F i j i | r o y a l d a v u i f i j i . c o m | r e s @ r o y a l d a v u i f i j i . c o m

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Signature June 2017.indd 1

31/8/17 11:41 am

WELCOME TO OUR WORLD Silversea‘s all-inclusive and intimate lifestyle brings you the best of cruising in Europe, let us take you there in complete comfort.

FREE

ECONOMY CLASS AIR ROUNDTRIP

or

UPGRADE

TO BUSINESS CLASS AIR FOR AU $3,998 PP ON SELECT VOYAGES

Our intimate ships offer you the chance to explore Europe up close as we can access ports that others simply cannot reach. After all, this is our home.

BARCELONA TO CIVITAVECCHIA (ROME) Monte Carlo

Livorno

MONTE CARLO TO BARCELONA Sete

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Calvi Bastia Barcelona

Civitavecchia

5th August 2018 | 7 days sailing aboard Silver Muse All-Inclusive Fly Cruise Packages from AU $5,220 PP

Barcelona

Olbia

29th August 2018 | 7 days sailing aboard Silver Muse All-Inclusive Fly Cruise Packages from AU $5,130 PP

Intimate Luxury Ships from 296 to 596 guests s Spacious & Elegant Ocean-View Suites with Butler Service s Complimentary Beverages s Extensive Fine Dining

For more information or to book, contact your Travel Associates Agent on 1800 559 166 or visit travel-associates.com.au/silversea

Package fares are per guest in AUD based on double occupancy in a Vista Suite, and select voyages include return economy class air and 10% Early Booking discount (valid until 28 Feb 2018). Air offer available on select 2018 sailings and must be booked by 31 Jan 2018. Flights are only available to Australian guests travelling from select gateways and promotional business class air rate is AU$3,998 per person with Qatar Airways. Fares and offers are capacity controlled and subject to change at any time without notice, prices are correct at time of going to print. For full terms and conditions and information on offer expiry dates visit Silversea.com.

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CLASSIC CARS OF JAPAN Scenic drives, traditional culture and classic cars come together in Japan’s annual The Peninsula Tokyo Rally Nippon. Over four days, 160 drivers and passengers in 80 vintage automobiles travelled from Kyoto to Tokyo, a distance of more than 1000 kilometres. The drive took in spectacular autumnal landscapes and some of Japan’s many UNESCO World Heritage Sites, finishing in style at The Peninsula Tokyo on 24 October 2017. The hotel, celebrating its 10th anniversary, was the perfect choice to sponsor the rally thanks to The Peninsula Hotels’ long-standing association with automotive events. The 2018 Rally Nippon will mark its 10th edition and be a mustattend event for vintage motoring enthusiasts. tokyo.peninsula.com rallynippon.asia

Award Winning authentic Luxury resort Discover intimate luxury & legendary personal service in a pristine setting. Home to just 25 Fijian style bures, our lifestyle resort overlooking the calm waters of Savusavu Bay welcomes guests of all ages. Relax, enjoy creative gourmet cuisine under the stars, take a guided snorkel trip with our resident marine biologist & discover the surrounding unspoiled natural environment. Our inclusive tariff includes an exclusive nanny for each child under 6 and a Fiji buddy for older children & teens.

For our special packages see www.fijiresort.com email: sales@fijiresort.com Tel: 61 3 98150379

www.fijiresort.com

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REINVENTING

OCE A N CRUISING Viking brings its award-winning river cruise philosophy to the oceans, with state-of-the-art small ships designed for destination cruising. Offering more time in port, culturally enriching shore excursions and fewer sea days so you can immerse yourself in each destination.

And we believe everything should be included.

YOUR OWN PRIVATE VER ANDA

CHOICE OF 10 DINING VENUES

PREMIUM BEVER AGES

NORDIC SPA FACILITIES

24 -HOUR ROOM SERVICE

ENRICHING CULTURE

WI -FI AND GR ATUITIES

SHORE EXCURSIONS

NO KIDS | NO CASINOS | VOTED WORLD’S BEST 138 747

VIKINGCRUISES.COM.AU

OR SEE YOUR LOCAL TRAVEL AGENT

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Two new journeys for Captain’s Choice The perks of private jet travel are unending, especially when delivered by the first-class crew at Captain’s Choice. Bolstering its portfolio of enriching, experiential journeys, Captain’s Choice has unveiled two new itineraries for 2019. Traverse Corners of Europe by Private Jet with visits to the grand cities of Paris and St Petersburg, gourmet delights in Provence and Puglia, or head to Africa for an unforgettable safari from Cairo to Cape Town, via Ethiopia and the gorillas of Rwanda. Both journeys include seemingly impossible routes and destinations touched by no regular airline, promising an exclusive experience like no other. captainschoice.com.au

HAWAII-HOP WITH FOUR SEASONS Four Seasons knows that every island of Hawaii has something unique to offer, and that is why it has designed Hawaii by Four Seasons, an exclusive multi-island offering that showcases unforgettable experiences native to each of the resort’s Hawaiian destinations.

The experience gives guests the chance to rub shoulders with the people and places that colour the islands, from exploring waterfalls to becoming acquainted with each island’s seasonal selection of organic produce, selected and sourced by Four Seasons’ executive chefs. There’s no better way to immerse yourself in the magic of Hawaii. fourseasons.com/hawaii

Vanuatu’s untouched paradise – Boutique accommodation for up to 38 guests – Organic food – Pristine environment – Direct flights from Australia, NZ, Noumea & Fiji – All proceeds go to non-profit organisation www.ratuafoundation.com

+678 35551 / +678 5333303 / reservations@ratua.com

www.ratua.com

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Embark on a voyage like no other Visit some of the most remote islands in the world, the Marquesas and Tuamotus, on board the passenger freighter, Aranui 5.

Nine islands across three Tahitian archipelagos

2019 CRUISES NOW ON SALE

10% OFF

SELECT VOYAGES 2,3,4,5,15

Highlights: 14 day cruise with all meals including onshore picnics and local feastsÂ

Take part in traditional celebrations, ceremonies and dance performances

Small group cruise (max 254 passengers)

Enjoy guided excursions to historic and cultural sites, ancient tikis, hiking, handicraft workshops and churches

Take a peek into the lives of local villages as we deliver essential goods during the 3,800 km journey from Papeete

Relax and enjoy our 4-star vessel, complete with bar and poolÂ

aranuicruises.com.au E info@aranuicruises.com.au P (+61) 3 9449 3778

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Bushland escapes

To satisfy the desires of the modern ‘glamper’, New South Wales’ BIG4 Sunshine at South West Rocks has unveiled a new instalment of lodges fit for the most discerning of travellers.

Each two-storey Ngurra Lodge features a contemporary interior and enough space to sleep six, with the most alluring feature being its unique montaged exteriors, which – made up of photographs by award-winning local artist Adam Williams – allow each structure to blend in with the park’s bushland setting. It’s resplendent accommodation in a relaxed atmosphere. big4southwestrocks.com.au

SAUVAGE & SCULPTURAL

Italian jeweller Roberto Coin is known for his expert craftsmanship and ingenious use of shape, and the sculptural rings, earrings and bangles, encrusted with diamond, black jade and malachite, that make up his Sauvage Privé collection are no exception. Visit Sydney’s J Farren-Price jewellery boutique for an exclusive look at this bold, modern collection. jfarrenprice.com.au

HOW DISCERNING TRAVELLERS CRUISE Fine dining All inclusive Daily excursions European cruises Unique Experiences Outstanding service

Speak with a Barge Specialist:

1300 150 725

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www.bargetravel.com.au info@bargetravel.com.au

Win!

A GADGET FOR THE GOURMAND

A NEW KIND OF PERU No one knows South America quite like Aracari, and that’s why the bespoke operator’s new tour to the lesser-known corners of Peru is sure to delight those in search of authenticity. While the charming colonial city of Arequipa and Peru’s Colca region remain largely unvisited by tourists, the recent launch of South America’s first luxury sleeper train, Belmond Andean Explorer, has made the area more accessible than ever, and in 2018, Aracari invites its guests to experience the historic and environmental allure of these previously overlooked destinations first-hand. aracari.com

Entrepreneurial purveyor of gadgets with finesse, Coravin, has launched a sleek new contraption that allows for wine to be enjoyed without removing the cork. Solving the dilemma of what variety to open at the dinner table, the Coravin Screw Cap replaces the cap of an opened bottle with a silicon membrane that reseals like a natural cork, allowing no additional air into the bottle. To reenter, simply repuncture; each Coravin Cap can withstand 50 punctures before the vintage spoils. coravin.com.au

Win! Go online and enter at signatureluxurytravel.com.au/ competitions for your chance to win one of two Coravin Screw Caps.

Your luxury family holiday ...awaits you

Sunshine Resort South West Rocks

Wake up in the tree tops in the latest in luxury. Our Ngurra two-storey lodges are impressively designed to capture the essence of the surrounding forest and wildlife, both with their external decal seamlessly blending them into the bush behind, and the abundance of glass allowing you to peacefully wake up within nature.

Our five-star facilities will keep the kids entertained for hours, from Shipwreck Island – a pirate ship with smile-inducing slides, an awesome tipping bucket and skull cave – to undercover play areas. Along with an interactive kids’ club, including live shows, and a high-quality restaurant, this will be the luxury family holiday of your dreams.

Ask about our Champagne upgrade! w: ngurralodges.com.au

p: 1300 509 649

e: info@big4sunshine.com.au

*T&Cs on our website

Free Wi-Fi • Restaurant • Shipwreck Island Water Park • Pool • Putt Putt • All-weather Playground • Go Karts • Canoes 36

River Cruise

IN RELAXED LUXURY

It’s not about looking a certain way, it’s about feeling a certain way.

For you, luxury is about leaving the penguin suit at home. No pretences – fabulous, but unfussy.

Luxury, just a little more laid back.

This is your time to experience the world the way you want to. Flex your joy, fuel your passions, do it all or just a little – do it your way.

it’s your life, GO LIVE IT LUXE

Open-air Panorama Suites

Locally Inspired Cuisine

Guided Sightseeing

For more information or to book:

CALL 1300 230 234 Visit avalonwaterways.com.au or see your local travel agent Your oasis - unpack once & indulge more | Taste the world - a curated gastronomical adventure | Welcome home - the feeling you love | Choose your own adventure - live in the moment

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HOTEL AT HOME

Bring the opulence of your favourite five-star hotel into your very own bedroom with Hotel Luxury Collection’s Mulberry Silk Filled Duvets. A perfect bedcover for the warmer months, the duvet’s hypo-allergenic silk filling acts as a natural insulator, moderating the temperature of those tucked underneath. Featuring a lightweight 300-thread-count cotton cover that contours naturally around the shape of your body, these exquisite Mulberry Silk Filled Duvets promise nothing but sweet dreams. hotelluxurycollection.com

Make wellness a priority

Perched beside Switzerland’s picturesque Lake Lucerne, the Bürgenstock Resort has unveiled two new unprecedented initiatives dedicated to improving the wellness of its guests. A world-class Alpine Spa adjacent to the resort offers guests the chance to indulge in private facilities with panoramic saunas and Kneipp baths filled with water from the lake, while the freshly opened Waldhotel Health & Medical Excellence centre houses a multidisciplinary team of doctors, therapists and nurses, allowing guests to rest assured their holiday health is in good hands.

Bürgenstock’s commitment to therapeutic travel just climbed another notch. buergenstock.ch

REAL BUSINESS CLASS DEALS FROM THE FLAT BEDS EXPERTS. Contact our business class airfare experts for the best value business class deals,

EUROPE

BUSINESS CLASS FROM

across the globe.

$5048 FLYING

www.flatbeds.com.au | 1300 318 227 Includes prepaid taxes. Prices correct at time of printing. Subject to change and availability at the time of booking. Conditions apply, see website for details.

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FRANZ JOSEF LAND & THE NORTH POLE Explore the new – and final – frontier of Arctic expedition cruising with Poseidon Expeditions Embark on unique voyages to the Russian High Arctic and the North Pole. The remote Franz Josef Land Archipelago is the icy realm of polar bears and legendary heroic era explorers like Nansen, Jackson and Leigh Smith. Travel even further north, across the frozen Arctic Ocean to the last frontier on the planet, the North Pole. While for the Arctic cruises we use the 114-passenger luxury expedition ship Sea Spirit, the North Pole can be reached only by the world’s most powerful Russian icebreaker, 50 Years of Victory.

For enquiries: SALES@POSEIDONEXPEDITIONS.COM Tel. No.: +44 20 3808 9085 For more information: WWW.POSEIDONEXPEDITIONS.COM

ED TE E AN UR AR RT U A G

DE

ED TE E AN UR AR RT U A G

P

DE

CHAMPAGNE, BURGUNDY & ALSACE TOUR

SAVE UP TO

Departs 4th June & 7th September 2018

per couple

$600

ED TE E AN UR AR RT U A G

P

LYON, PROVENCE & FRENCH RIVIERA TOUR Departs 28th June & 11th October 2018

DE

SAVE UP TO

$600

per couple

P

LOIRE VALLEY, COGNAC, BORDEAUX & DORDOGNE Departs 16th June & 29th September 2018

SAVE UP TO

$600

per couple

11-nights in 4* boutique hotels in Reims, Dijon and Colmar

11-nights in 3-4* charming hotels in Lyon, Aix en Provence and Nice

11-nights in 3 or 4* boutique hotels in Tours, Bordeaux and Sarlat

ESCORTED TOUR: Small Group Tour, limited to 16 passengers to visit the regions of Champagne, Burgundy and Alsace with an experienced English speaking guide

ESCORTED TOUR: Small Group Tour, limited to 16 passengers to visit the regions of Loire Valley, Cognac, Bordeaux and Dordogne with an experienced English speaking guide

TRANSPORTATION: Air-conditioned minibus from Paris to Colmar

ESCORTED TOUR: Small Group Tour, limited to 16 passengers to visit the regions of Lyon, Provence and French Riviera with an experienced English speaking guide MEALS: Daily breakfast, 3 lunches with drinks and 3 dinners with drinks ACTIVITIES: 2 wine tastings and 1 Calissons d’Aix candy tasting CITY GUIDED TOURS: Lyon, Avignon, Cassis, Roussillon, Gordes, Grasse, Aix en Provence, Cannes, Nice, Monaco, Antibes and more MAIN SIGHTS: Maison des Canuts museum, Les Halles Bocuse market, Sennanque Abbey, Les Carrieres de Lumiere and more TRANSPORTATION: Air-conditioned minibus from Paris to Nice

from AU $6,695 per person

from AU $6,750 per person

from AU $6,795 per person

Book before 31 March 2018

Book before 31 March 2018

Book before 31 March 2018

MEALS: Daily breakfast, 3 lunches with drinks and 4 dinners with drinks ACTIVITIES: 5 Champagne tastings, 4 wine tastings and 1 mustard tasting CITY GUIDED TOURS: Reims, Beaune, Dijon, Strasbourg, Colmar and more MAIN SIGHTS: Reims Cathedral, Lighthouse of Verzenay, Hospices de Beaune, Clos Vougeot and more

MEALS: Daily breakfast, 4 lunches with drinks and 3 dinners with drinks ACTIVITIES: 5 wine tastings, 1 Cognac tasting and 1 truffle tasting CITY GUIDED TOURS: Tours, Amboise, Bordeaux, Saint Emilion, Sarlat, Beynac and more MAIN SIGHTS: Chenonceau Chateau, Chambord Chateau, Villandry gardens and Lascaux cave and more TRANSPORTATION: Air-conditioned minibus from Paris to Sarlat

*Prices are subject to change and availability is limited.

Speak with a French Specialist:

1300 858 304

info@frenchtravel.com.au www.frenchtravel.com.au

signatureluxurytravel.com.au

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signaturelusthaves

Desirables for Mesdames

All wrapped up

Take any look upmarket with Chanel’s elegant jewelled necklace. Feminine and glamorous, without shouting out for attention, the necklace is made of metal and calfskin in dark pink and gold. Its fine lines are enhanced with the telltale double-C Chanel emblem woven into the upper strand and punctuating both of the trailing ends.

RRP $1850 chanel.com

Shimmer and shine The Decoltish pump combines Christian Louboutin’s Decollete 554 slender pointed toe with the elegant curve of the 100-millimetre ‘fetish’ heel.

Pairing the signature red sole with gold ‘pepite’ leather results in an irresistible indulgence that brings sparkle and a sense of occasion to any evening out, whether you’re off to the opera or dining out with friends.

RRP $965 christianlouboutin.com

Sweetest of scents Nuit d’Amour was created as a tribute to Gustav Klimt and his work ‘Lady with Hat and Feather Boa’. It belongs to Guerlain’s Exclusive Collections for ‘aficionados of rare scents’. The fragrance is ‘sweet, moving and feminine’, with top notes of lychee and pink pepper, heart notes of May rose and violet, and base notes of sandalwood, white musk and iris. POA guerlain.com

Bagging a Birkin

The iconic Birkin bag was first imagined by singer-actress Jane Birkin on a Paris-London flight in 1983. Birkin told Hermès chairman Jean-Louis Dumas, next to whom she was sitting, that she wanted a spacious, sturdy and stable bag with a flat bottom that was just as elegant open or closed. Dumas set about having it designed, and it’s now a status symbol gracing the arms of the most fashionable women the world over. POA hermes.com

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... and Messieurs

Top of the trunks

Traditional on the outside, sleek on the inside, the creations of Parisian newcomers T.T. Trunks bring modernity to a travel classic. From the Dandy T128 shown here – with its pull-out drawers, charging capabilities and bar supplies – to the Millésime T512 for connoisseurs – complete with wine fridge and glasses – these multistorey cases fuse agility with handcrafted sophistication.

RRP €39,000 tttrunks.com

For the cognac gourmand Rémy Martin is the name to indulge in when it comes to the finest cognac. The French house’s prestigious Louis XIII edition contains Grande Champagne eaux-de-vie aged between 40 and 100 years, and is beautifully bottled in a handcrafted Baccarat Crystal decanter.

Known to linger generously on the palate for hours, Rémy Martin’s Louis XIII is a gift for the most serious of cognac enthusiasts. RRP AU$3790 (700ml) from danmurphys.com.au remymartin.com

A sole for the sleek

Elegance, craftsmanship and quality are the hallmarks of the Berluti brand. For 120 years the Italian studio has crafted leatherwear of the highest standards; its shoes are revered worldwide by those who strive for hardwearing footwear with longevity and aesthetic appeal. For a functional shoe that will allow you to traverse day and night, try Berluti’s Classic Leather Buckle Shoe in Roccia.

RRP AU$2730 berluti.com

Cycle chic

What better way to cruise around town than atop a limitededition bicycle designed by Dior? Created in collaboration with Parisian bike company Bogarde, Dior’s first-ever BMX-style bike features a chrome body finished with hints of black and red, and has handlebars engraved with the house’s signature bee motif, made recognisable by the D-Bee It bag. The bike will retail at select Dior Homme boutiques by request, and although only 70 numbered models are said to have been made, the French atelier has promised this is the first in a series of three exclusive bike designs still to be released.

Stay tuned. RRP AU$4300 dior.com

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LEGENDS OF GOYARD Throughout the 20th century, this secretive French malletier created luggage for discerning travellers from Coco Chanel to the Duke and Duchess of Windsor.

Amelia Hungerford steps into the world of Goyard.

J

ean-Michel Signoles began his love affair with the French brand Goyard as a collector in 1974, amassing a collection of nearly 700 trunks, suitcases and bags that embody the glamour of travel, as well as the privately owned company itself in 1998.

Throughout its history, the House of Goyard has been a name that whispers luxury. At its 20th-century peak, the maison had boutiques in Biarritz, Bordeaux and Monte-Carlo, a pet accessories line known as Chic du Chien, and a clutch of awards in celebration of its creativity.

Even now, with Signoles at its helm, Goyard has retained an air of mystery. It may have new boutiques across Europe, Asia and the Americas – and an Instagram account – but the maison eschews marketing and ecommerce. Its focus remains entirely on creating exceptional luggage, handbags, briefcases and accessories that celebrate French savoir-faire and elegance.

Humble beginnings Signoles’ fascination was piqued upon seeing the Goyard shopfront at 233, rue Saint-Honoré in Paris, a wood-panelled relic from the 19th century. It was in this store in 1845 that a young apprentice, François Goyard, started his career at Maison Martin, a crate-packer and trunkmaker of note. He honed his craft under PierreFrançois Martin and his successor, Louis-Henri Morel, before taking over the company, then changing its name – and direction – in 1853.

It was François’ son, Edmond, who created the signature Goyardine canvas in 1892.

The jacquard pattern references the family’s historical occupation as log-drivers in Burgundy, using dots to evoke the firewood they

transported along canals. When other trunkmakers were using linen, Edmond looked to the hard-wearing but soft waterproof cotton and linen mix sported by his ancestors on the rivers.

Stories from the archives The Goyard client records are full of illustrious names that have added their own flair to the coveted trunks, suitcases and bags. Take the trio of trunks that accompanied Cole Porter on his world tours. Although the black Goyardine is the signature of the Maison, the light-blue and navy stripes are pure Porter, bright and bold as one of his Broadway-ready hits. Marilyn Monroe’s suitcases and hatboxes, in contrast, are muted and feminine in white maroquin with gold geometric accents. This fine goat skin had never been used to cover trunks before, creating a pared-back aesthetic that would be copied into the 1960s, along with Marilyn’s style.

Coco Chanel also opted for an unusual choice – black leather – for her trunk, adorned with golden fixtures and stripes of red and silver, while her successor, Karl Lagerfeld, chose a classic three-piece for his first Goyard order in 1972. Open the unassuming trunk of Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, and you’ll discover a portable writing desk, complete with typewriter and bookcase. French tennis legend Suzanne Lenglen was such a style icon that she had her own uncluttered, modern canvas design, discontinued after her death in 1938. And when it comes to travelling in style, few did it with more panache than the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, who commissioned an array of trunks, as well as Chic du Chien accessories, between 1939 and 1986. goyard.com

Clockwise from top left Karl Lagerfeld’s first Goyard commission; Coco Chanel’s black leather trunk; the Duke and Duchess of Windsor amassed an array of trunks; Marilyn Monroe’s maroquin luggage. All images © House of Goyard

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signaturearts

THE ARTS TRAIL From opera festivals in Roman ruins to new museums devoted to fashion legends, France’s cultural scene is a beacon to artslovers the world over.

FÊTES GALANTES AND THE GRAND MASKED BALL Château de Versailles 28 May and 23 June 2018

Don your finest baroque outfit (compulsory) for these spectacular evenings that revive the decadence of the Sun King’s court. The fourth edition of the Fêtes Galantes is a fabulous 17th-century affair that invites you to dance the minuet in the Hall of Mirrors, try your hand at a round of trictrac, and stroll through the royal family’s private apartments. The Grand Masked Ball, on the other hand, creates a club-like atmosphere with a soirée of champagne and masked mystery in the Orangerie and its gardens. Dancers, performers and entertainers will delight guests until dawn, when the after party continues in the Ballroom Grove. chateauversailles-spectacles.fr

THE MUSÉE YVES SAINT LAURENT Paris

The fashion world continues its love affair with the designer that transformed the way we consume high fashion. The new museum, opened in October by the Fondation Pierre Bergé – Yves Saint Laurent, is housed across 450 square metres of the hôtel particulier on Avenue Marceau where the couturier developed his haute couture collections between 1974 and 2002. Fashionistas can sashay through the salons where clients once gathered to see the latest collection, and which now play host to a visual Saint Laurent biography. The inaugural retrospective display, on show until September 2018, will showcase the designer’s most iconic styles and a full collection (for 2018, the first Spring-Summer 1962 collection), as well as insight into the technical process, artistic inspiration, the history of fashion and even Saint Laurent’s relationship with Pierre Bergé. If this doesn’t satisfy your YSL passion, the opening of the Paris museum coincided with the opening of Musée Yves Saint Laurent Marrakech. museeyslparis.com

The Musée Yves Saint Laurent, Paris: Image © Luc Castel. Château de Versailles: Fêtes Galantes © C. De Montagu. Centre Pompidou: César, Championne Argentine n° 2, 1985, Automobile compressée, tôle peinte et matériaux divers, 190 × 132 cm, Collection particulière,© SBJ / Adagp, Paris 2017, Photo credit © Centre Pompidou, MNAM-CCI / Philippe Migeat / Dist. RMN-GP. Fondation Louis Vuitton: Paul Signac (France, 1863-1935), Sur l’émail d’un fond rythmique de mesures et d’angles, de tons et de teintes, portrait de M. Félix Fénéon en 1890, Opus 217, 1890, Huile sur toile, 73.5 × 92.5 cm, The Museum of Modern Art, New York, Don de M. et Mme David Rockefeller, 1991.

Chorégies d’Orange: Rigoletto at the Roman Theatre of Orange, Provence, 2017 © Philippe Gromelle

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signaturearts

CÉSAR: THE RETROSPECTIVE Centre Pompidou, Paris Until 26 March 2018

Stroll among 126 of the sculptor’s works, ranging from famous series to lesserknown pieces, in his first retrospective at Centre Pompidou. The exhibition marks the 20th anniversary of the death of César, a New Realist famous by the age of 25. At his height in the 1960s and ’70s, the Marseille-born artist showed his sculptures across the world, most notably the Compressions series of aluminium and copper compacted into cubes, which caused a scandal at the Salon de Mai for their anti-art irreverence. More than a dozen Compressions are on show, including whole cars, as well as the welded iron sculptures that first brought him to international prominence, the enlarged Human Imprints series and the rippling Expansions series. centrepompidou.fr

BEING MODERN: MOMA IN PARIS Fondation Louis Vuitton, Paris Until 5 March 2018

Masterpieces from New York’s Museum of Modern Art (MoMA) come to the Bois du Boulogne in this fascinating collaboration.

More than 200 works will showcase how the museum has influenced art history in the 20th and 21st centuries, occupying all four levels beneath Frank Gehry’s spectacular glass sails.

While MoMA is undergoing renovation and expansion in the US, audiences in France can admire its landmark pieces, including some never before seen in France, such as Andy Warhol’s Campbell’s Soup Cans (1962), as well as materials from the archives, detailing the museum’s history since its founding in 1929. fondationlouisvuitton.fr

CHORÉGIES D’ORANGE Roman Theatre of Orange, Provence 20 June – 4 August 2018

This spectacular theatre, half an hour’s drive from Avignon, has played host to shows since the days of the ancient Romans. Today, the 8300-seat auditorium is also the home of this annual opera and classical concert festival with roots dating back to 1869. In 2018, festivalgoers can witness the grandiose Arrigo Boito opera, Mefistofele; travel through Russian classics with the Radio France philharmonic orchestra; drift into a fairytale with Maurice Béjart’s The Magic Flute ballet; savour the comedy of Rossini’s Barber of Seville; and go on a nostalgic journey with Disney’s Fantasia in concert. choregies.fr

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01

FASHION MEETS ART Moscow’s Kristina Makeeva, the photographer responsible for our dreamy cover, explains how her Simple Magic Things series merges ethereal gowns and exotic landscapes.

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K

ristina Makeeva picked up a camera when she was 16 and hasn’t put it down since. The Russian photographer with fairytale flair came to the world’s attention with a series that showcased the wintry beauty of her snow-dusted home town, Moscow, but it is her images that blend fashion and travel that have become her signature.

Each one in the series matches fabulous, flowing designer dresses with extraordinary natural landscapes and monuments; a dress in shades of pink and purple fans out in ribbons against Cappadocia’s dramatic

signatureprofile

01 A surreal photographic work in Cappadocia, Turkey, blends fashion and travel 02 Singeractor Vera Brezhneva creates a blue mood at Palais-Royal 03 The rufflecollared gown by Rasario in the Palais Garnier opera house in Paris 04 A playful shoot celebrating the carousel and the Eiffel Tower

chimneys at dusk; a sundress blends into a field of scarlet poppies and purple delphinium in Crimea. Her eye for colour and texture transforms her work from photos to art, which is precisely how she considers the dresses worn by her models.

“To make a beautiful dress is an art.

I treat fashion as an art,” she says.

There’s no one way that she sources the gowns for her shoots, however.

“Dresses come to me in different ways. Sometimes they are from my wardrobe, sometimes they are from dress rental services, or provided by designers or made to order. And sometimes it’s just a piece of fabric that is wrapped around the model.

“There are no restrictions, no favourite designers. There is only beauty, and it does not matter where

03

04 02

Follow Kristina on Instagram for more stunning images

Instagram @hobopeeba Model @veravera

Fashion @ohmylook

signatureluxurytravel.com.au

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signatureprofile

about.” To prove her point, Kristina has even created six Adobe Lightroom editing presets enabling anyone to replicate her style.

Parisian fantasy

05

it comes from. I like to show that magic is always present in our life; it only needs to be seen.”

On location Kristina’s Simple Magic Things series takes simplicity – “balls, bubbles, sunlight, mirrors, smoke, sparkles, a cat, a cup of tea” – and elevates them with composition and colour. Whether she is capturing the mesmerising patterns within the frozen depths of Lake Baikal, or cover star Vera Brezhneva in some of Paris’s most beautiful locations, the vision is the same. Her subjects, animate and inanimate alike, seem to reside in the realm of the ethereal.

Kristina has even made an Instastar of her ginger cat, Kotleta (or Cutlet, in English), photographing the obliging feline in headdresses and sunglasses, surrounded by bubbles, on a Moscow ice pond and even posing with a nervous-looking mouse.

When we asked Kristina about the techniques she uses to achieve her fairytale effects, she demurs.

“I am often asked for lessons [about the post-production process], but I always say that I don’t see the point.

I don’t do anything unusual, nothing that everyone doesn’t already know 50

Her whimsical aesthetic has garnered quite a following on Instagram – 437,000 as of December 2017 – and it was through an international social media meet in the Maldives that she met Lera Borodina, the Ukrainian founder of high-end dress rental service, Oh My Look!.

Lera was looking to mark the opening of her first showroom in Russia with a photo shoot that brought to life every feminine dream.

Naturally, Kristina, with her dreamy vision, was the perfect choice, and Paris the only destination. “Paris is

06

05 Kristina first garnered international attention with her series of a snow-dusted Moscow 06 A Mania gown photographed at Hôtel Duquesne Eiffel 07 Vera Brezhneva brings whimsy and warmth to the creative fashion shoot

07

the dream of every woman,” Kristina enthuses. “And women’s dreams are the main theme of Oh My Look!”

With more than 3000 dresses to choose from, the results of the shoot range from light and playful to grand and elegant. Singer-actor Vera Brezhneva glows in the Paris sunrise, seemingly about to float away with the oversized balloons she holds. The team visited 11 locations over two days of shooting, while Vera changed dresses 12 times.

In front of the Louvre and Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel, Vera is serene in a blue Isabel Garcia gown, and sophisticated perched on one of Daniel Buren’s columns before Palais-Royal in a feather-adorned dress by Rimma Shanoyan. Pastels seem to bring out the playful side of an Oh My Look! girl, as in

a tiered Mania confection photographed on the roof of Hôtel Duquesne Eiffel, and Helenber’s pink silk dress fanned out in front of the gold gates of Palais-Royal.

The most magnificent is surely the ruffle-collared black gown by Russian atelier Rasario that stars on our cover.

Photographed in Palais Garnier, the home of the Paris Opera Ballet, the touch of silver in the fabric amplifies the magic of the location, illuminated by grand carved candelabras.

“This is a chic dress that suits absolutely everyone and makes every girl a princess,” explains Kristina.

“That’s what we wanted to achieve by photographing [Vera] in the regal interiors of this historic opera house.”

It’s the fairytale escape we all need from time to time. ipai.ru signatureluxurytravel.com.au

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destinationfrance

MEGAN HESS IN PARIS The illustrator’s new book, Paris: Through a Fashion Eye, brings to life the inimitable style and elegance of the City of Light. We chat with Megan about what to do, where to eat and where to find inspiration.

What is the ideal 24 hours in Paris for you? I always stay at Le Bristol (I’m Artist

in Residence there). I love its French toast and espresso for breakfast. A perfect day would then be wandering the galleries in Saint-Germain-des-Prés and stopping at Café de Flore for coffee, then on to Rue Cambon for a little shopping at Chanel.

Just around the corner is Hôtel Costes where I love to have dinner. The peoplewatching is second to none, as is its famous Cracker Jack cheesecake. To finish the night, a walk along the River Seine looking at the beautiful lights of the city.

How did you decide upon Paris as the subject for your latest book? I always

knew that I wanted to do a book about both New York and Paris. I created the New York book last year and this year has been all about Paris for me. It’s the architecture, the food, the fashion.

What’s your favourite experience that makes you feel like a local? I have

so many favourite places in Paris. If I had to choose one I would say a long lunch at L’Avenue on the outside terrace restaurant in spring. I love the ambience, the delicious food and, most of all, the people-watching.

What Paris location/attraction best epitomises luxury in your eyes?

Dining at The Baccarat Cristal Room is an experience not to be missed.

It’s so quintessentially French.

Where do you feel most inspired while in Paris? I always feel like I’m in a movie when I stand at Pont Alexandre III in Paris. The view is magical and I always feel a sense of inspiration.

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You loved the city long before you lived there; are the things that made you love Paris from a distance the same today? I love all the clichés about Paris: the bicycles, the pâtisseries, the cheese, the tiny flower pots on the balconies…

These are the signature things I first fell in love with and they’re still the little things that make my heart skip a beat.

How would you describe your Paris style? I think Paris style is the definition of chic. It’s not fussy and yet it’s very polished. It’s the way Parisians carry themselves, the way they gesture, the way they throw a scarf around their neck. Nothing is more exciting than Paris Couture Week, when I love to sketch the fashion at the shows, as well as all the street style.

What aspect of Parisian art de vivre would you like to see Australians embrace more? I love their way of

life. I love that they appreciate quality over quantity. I love that they take time to savour a meal and appreciate good food and good company.

What is the creative process that goes into your illustrations? If it’s for a

client, it starts with a brief and I always give myself a good amount of initial time to dream and get inspired about what I’m going to draw. Sometimes I’ll do initial sketches or create a mood board of concepts and ideas. Then it’s to the physical drawing phase and I’m usually in absolute joy creating the final image.

Most of my work can take anywhere from an hour to several days to complete; it just depends on the complexity of the illustration.

Paris: Through a Fashion Eye

by Megan Hess is published by Hardie Grant Books, RRP $29.99. hardiegrant.com meganhess.com

To read the full interview with Megan Hess, visit signatureluxurytravel.com.au/meganhess

Tell us about Monty. What is the story 1920s. His work was so unique and groundbreaking. I often reference his behind your bespoke fountain pen?

Monty is my secret magic tool! It is a custom Montblanc fountain pen – the pen was created especially for me by Montblanc and he’s my most prized possession. When I first collaborated with the brand they created the custom pen for me. As well as being incredibly special to me, it changes the way I draw.

illustrations and it still amazes me how relevant and inspiring they are today. He never followed trends, his work was completely imaginary and it always transports you to another world.

Today, I am a collector of his pieces.

What has it been like to be the Artist in Residence for Oetker Collection?

How long were you working on Paris: This is probably the most exciting collaboration that I have ever worked Through a Fashion Eye? A year!

Which artists have most inspired your work? My favourite artist is

the Russian-born French artist Erté.

He was an iconic illustrator of the

on as it brings together all my favourite elements. It involves sketching architectural and interiors scenes, and sprinkling them with the sorts of people you would expect to find there.

I get to travel around and experience all these different hotels, too, which is exciting, not least because they’re among the most luxurious in the world.

How do you define luxury? True luxury is how something makes you feel. It’s the experience.

What has been your best Parisian coffee experience? My favourite coffee experience is sitting in Angelina having the most delicious coffee with whipped cream, sitting at the very table that Coco Chanel once sat at. It was her favourite cafe and she would sit at the same table every morning on her way to her atelier.

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signatureexperiences

THE FRANCOFILE Seek out the extraordinary with our top 25 dream experiences across the Francophone world.

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rance is one of the world’s most visited destinations, welcoming more than 80 million tourists in 2014. While a glimpse of the Eiffel Tower makes our hearts skip a beat and Mont-Saint-Michel always inspires awe, this nation – as well as Monaco, French Polynesia and New Caledonia – is unparalleled in offering once-in-alifetime experiences, if you know where to look. From supercars in Provence to cycling through Normandy, we invite you to rediscover France in style.

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HAUTE COUTURE PARIS travel.1889experience.com Go behind the scenes of haute couture with visits to the ateliers of designers and the workshops of skilled artisans involved in the fashion industry, or join a personal stylist for a shopping experience like no other.

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A NIGHT AT THE OPERA operadeparis.fr Palais Garnier is one of Paris’ most beautiful buildings. Admire it in all its ornate glory by seeing an opera or ballet, and admire the ceiling painted by Marc Chagall, as well as the artistry on stage.

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THE MOULIN ROUGE moulinrouge.fr Be dazzled by the world’s most famous cabaret with a VIP Dinner and Show.

The Féerie revue takes you on a journey through Paris and the cabaret itself – with a detour into exotic Indonesia – full of sequins and feathers. Enjoy it all with a gourmet experience on a private balcony.

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INDULGE LIKE MARIE ANTOINETTE waldorfastoria.com ducasse-chateauversailles.com Spend a night in the parkland of the world’s most famous château at Trianon Palace Versailles, A Waldorf Astoria Hotel and savour breakfast or lunch at Alain Ducasse’s new restaurant, ore.

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PAINT LIKE THE IMPRESSIONISTS etangs-corot.com Jean-Baptiste Camille Corot’s landscape painting would go on to inspire the Impressionist movement and his former home, now Les Etangs de Corot boutique hotel, is the perfect place to hone your artistic technique with a painting lesson.

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CHÂTEAU LIFE IN THE LOIRE oliverstravels.com Don’t just visit the spectacular châteaux of the Loire Valley; stay in your very own with a spectacular holiday rental. We love 14-bedroom Château des Joyaux, known as Petit Chambord for its resemblance to the French Renaissance masterpiece. signatureluxurytravel.com.au

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01 France by supercar with Wild Drives © Lorenz Richard 02 Stay in your own Loire palace at Château des Joyaux © Oliver’s Travels/Cyril Folliot 03 Relais & Châteaux member, L’Hôtel de Toiras, is an ideal place to stay on Île de Ré 04 Biking through Normandy © Butterfield & Robinson/Sebastien Romero 05 Les Etangs de Corot invites guests to discover their inner artist © Roberta Valerio

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TASTE THE STARS IN CHAMPAGNE grapeescapes.net champagne-ardenne-tourism.co.uk Immerse yourself in the world of Dom (Pierre) Pérignon with a four-day VIP Atelier Tour in Hautvillers, then hit the Route Touristique du Champagne to explore the rest of the region’s wonders.

Hire a classic car to add that certain je ne sais quoi to your getaway.

A CHEESEMAKING ODYSSEY cheesemaking.com.au Learn more than you ever thought you wanted to know about Comté, Époisses, Morbier, Raclette and blue-vein cheeses on Australia-based Cheesemaking’s annual hands-on Discover the Art of French Cheesemaking tour across Burgundy. Be sure to book well ahead, though, as places fill up quickly.

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CYCLE THROUGH NORMANDY butterfield.com Indulge your inner history buff with a journey through the past – from the Bayeux Tapestry and the Battle of Hastings to the beaches of the D-Day Landings – on a Bespoke Normandy cycling tour with Butterfield & Robinson.

Start in the port of Honfleur and savour the elegance of resort town Deauville.

ATLANTIC ISLAND IDYLL relaischateaux.com slh.com Soak up the sun on Île de Ré, a popular holiday destination off the coast of La Rochelle. Choose from a 17th-century shipbuilder’s residence overlooking the mast-filled port at L’Hôtel de Toiras or a classically chic villa with contemporary interiors and a Spa by Clarins at Le Clos Saint-Martin Hotel & Spa.

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BORDEAUX PAR EXCELLENCE luxurywineexperience.com Indulge in a Wine Experience by Bernard Magrez, customised with helicopter and Rolls-Royce transfers, accommodation in vineyard châteaux, wine tasting, dining and wine making.

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HUNTING FOR TRUFFLES latruffiere.com.au Winter is truffle season in the Périgord region, filled with markets, farms, truffle dogs and the annual truffle festival in Sarlat, with tours taking in the wonder of this fantastic fungus.

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BELLE ÉPOQUE BESIDE THE SEA lhw.com Enjoy lavish turn-of-the-century hotel grandeur next to the Atlantic Ocean in Biarritz; Hôtel du Palais was built by Napoleon III for his wife Eugénie and still has an elegant old-world feel.

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CHARTER A SUPERYACHT iyc.com Bask in the Riviera lifestyle aboard a fully crewed superyacht, and cruise to your heart’s content between glittering SaintTropez and Monaco.

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FERRARI AND LAMBORGHINI IN PROVENCE wilddrives.com.au Hire a supercar and hit the winding coastal roads above the Mediterranean with a four-night drive from Cannes to Monte-Carlo, via hilltop Vence.

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SECRETS OF PERF UME molinard.com Learn the art of fragrance with a workshop, accompanied by champagne, at La Villa du Parfumeur de Molinard in Grasse, the home of perfume. signatureluxurytravel.com.au

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RUB SHOULDERS WITH STARS IN CANNES festival-cannes.com The Riviera city comes alive in May when the annual film festival rolls into town.

Whether you’re accredited to attend the film showings or not, it’s an exciting time to visit, with glamour at its peak.

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GO WILD IN CORSICA wildcorsica.fr Hike La Corse’s mythical 170-kilometrelong hiking trail, GR20, with a guide, or marvel at the Milky Way on a star-chasing wilderness adventure by night; Corsica is one of the last places on Earth where you can see our galaxy with the naked eye.

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MASTER FRENCH COOKING institutpaulbocuse.com Learn about French cuisine from the ‘pope of gastronomy’ at Institut Paul Bocuse in Lyon, the gourmet capital of France, with a week-long program including Michelin-starred dining.

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TOUR DE FRANCE VIP sportstoursinternational.co.uk Arrive by helicopter to watch a stage of the world’s most famous cycling race from an official Tour de France car.

Mingle with riders and celebrities at the Village Départ before enjoying the race in comfort and celebrating at the finish line.

IN THE WAKE OF PAUL GAUGUIN aranui.com Discover how Tahiti and its tropical islands inspired art and literature on a cruise through French Polynesia – including the mysterious Marquesas Islands – aboard the unique freightercruise ship Aranui 5.

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COWBOYS OF NEW CALEDONIA newcaledonia.travel Explore the intriguing rural West Coast of our South Pacific neighbour with a night under the stars at an authentic local barbecue with a farming family. It’s a fascinating insight into a side of island life you might not have known existed.

SET SAIL ON THE SEINE uniworld.com Cruise the Seine aboard Uniworld’s newest ship, SS Joie de Vivre, on an eightday return journey from Paris, visiting Monet’s gardens at Giverny, Joan of Arc’s Rouen, pretty harbour town Honfleur and the white cliffs of Étretat.

FROM PARIS TO MARSEILLE abercrombiekent.com.au See the best of France in a whirlwind eight-day private tour with Abercrombie & Kent, going behind the scenes at the Eiffel Tower, touring Paris with a food critic, and sleeping in a medieval citadel in Provence. You’ll even stay overnight in Versailles, on the palace’s doorstep.

PALATIAL STAYS au.france.fr There are some hotels where five stars just aren’t enough. That’s where the Palace of France status comes in. These 24 hotels are the pinnacle of living à la française in Paris, across the country and even in the Caribbean. A stay in one (or all) is a must for the true Francophile.

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06 Opulence with the Bernard Magrez Luxury Wine Experience 07 The world’s most famous cabaret, the Moulin Rouge, in Paris 08 The Cave du Vin aboard Uniworld’s SS Joie de Vivre

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destinationfrance

VILLAGES AND VINES From fascinating history to charming villages, there’s more to the Champagne region than its sparkling wine, as France travel expert Carolyn Boyd explains.

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hen we arrive in the centre of the city of Troyes, the pastel timberframed houses are basking in the late-afternoon sun. The square in front of the imposing Hôtel de Ville is abuzz with people finishing their Saturday afternoon shopping trips, and a carousel whirls around to cheerful accordion music. We’re in the heart of France, just two hours from Paris, but Troyes (pronounced ‘tw-a’) is not a usual stop on the tourist trail through the Champagne region, but those who skip it are missing a gem.

We started our journey in another jewel, Langres, where we wandered the ancient ramparts of the citadel that stands out with breathtaking views across the countryside.

The town’s Roman heritage is showcased in the Museum of Art and History, a modern building incorporating the remains of the 12th-century Saint-Didier chapel. A short walk away, in the fascinating new House of Enlightenment centre, we heard the story of the town’s most famous son: the philosopher, art critic and writer Denis Diderot.

We then travelled east to arrive in Troyes in the late-afternoon sun. It’s an enchanting city with medieval architecture and a network of canals that mark out the city centre in the shape of a champagne cork. Yet France’s famous sparkling wine isn’t the main draw here in Troyes.

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01 Barging with Belmond Afloat in France is a relaxed way to see Champagne in style. Read more about Belmond’s hotel barges in our cruise story on page 88. belmond.com

“Troyes is an enchanting city with medieval architecture and a network of canals that mark out the city centre in the shape of a champagne cork.� signatureluxurytravel.com.au

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02 Château de Fère offers some of the region’s finest accommdation © Eric Brenckle 03 & 04 Charming Reims © Reims Tourisme/Gregory Duval 05 Château de Fère’s gardens 06 Langres’ famous son, Denis Diderot © Fred Laures/Champagne Tourisme

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Instead, the city’s many churches and cathedrals, linked by charming cobbled streets, are what make it special, so we wander between them and then into the narrow alleys of the old town, pausing for an aperitif, which leads to dinner.

It’s dark when we wander back towards our hotel and the majestic façade of the Cathedral of Saint-Pierre-et-SaintPaul de Troyes is lit up in all its glory.

History in a glass After a couple of days amid the halftimbered houses of Troyes, we travel north to Épernay, which is famous for its Avenue de Champagne, an elegant boulevard lined with the houses of some of the world’s most famous champagne brands. Yet it isn’t just the big names creating great wine here; so too are the smaller local producers and the tasting bar C Comme Champagne is the perfect place to taste their excellent vintages and learn about real champagne, away from the glitz and glamour.

Not far from Épernay is the birthplace of those revered bubbles. Hautvillers, a neat village of red-brick mansions and cobbled streets, perches on a hill surrounded by vineyards and is said to be where Dom Pierre Pérignon, a 17th-century monk, first invented champagne, supposedly uttering the immortal words, “Come quickly, I am tasting the stars!”. While his abbey home can only be viewed on heritage days (it is now the property of Moët & Chandon), this pretty village makes for a fascinating afternoon of exploration.

Finally, it’s on to Reims, the regional capital. Its mighty Gothic Notre-Dame cathedral has seen the coronation of 29 French kings. We tiptoe around in the hushed semi-darkness, gazing at the soaring arches, noble statues and glorious stained-glass rose windows.

In the neighbouring Palais du Tau, where once the royal coronation banquets were held, we admire the treasures on display, amazed by those that are 1100 years old. With World War history not far away in Ardenne, there’s even more to explore next time, but for now, over lunch, we’ll toast all we’ve discovered with a glass of cold, sparkling champagne.

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Accommodation lebelvederedesremparts.com maisonderhodes.com/en villa-eugene.com/en lescrayeres.com chateaudefere.com Getting there Qantas flies from Australia to Paris. qantas.com.au Information tourisme-champagne-ardenne.com

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destinationfrance

RIPE FOR THE PICKING Burgundy’s Côte d’Or is a place of pilgrimage for wine connoisseurs looking to discover the mysteries of terroir and grands crus, including our writer, John Malathronas.

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t’s not very often that I dine with millionaires. I’m sitting at La Table, the restaurant of La Maison d’Olivier Leflaive, a boutique hotel on the main square of PulignyMontrachet, a village in the middle of the Côte d’Or, Burgundy’s wine route.

Opposite me sits Olivier Leflaive, the owner of several prized vineyards.

He’s an effusive, jovial gentilhomme, typical of the local vignerons. Forget the business suits and marketing talk you will find in other regions in France – yes, I’m mostly thinking of Bordeaux. Burgundy vineyard owners are farmers at heart, describing their soils and offering you their latest vintage while keenly awaiting your verdict.

Burgundy produces less than one per cent of the world’s wine production but in terms of quality, it reigns supreme.

The reds are all pinot noir and the whites are all chardonnay, except for a small production of Aligoté, famously used for Kir, that heavenly aperitif of white wine laced with cassis, a blood-red blackcurrant liqueur. Indeed, Nuits-SaintGeorges, a village 32 kilometres north of here, proudly parades the Cassissium, a museum devoted to the stuff.

Yet no chardonnay or pinot noir tastes the same, for the soil variety even within short distances is astonishing: clay soils make for full-bodied, elegant wines; the female yin to the male yang of limestone that breeds acidic wines with more bite.

In most wineries you get the obligatory cellar tour; in Burgundy they drive you

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to their fields. Château de Pommard, an 18th-century heritage estate, does exactly that when I arrive next morning, its peacefully pastoral vinedotted slopes merging into a soothing, green-brown pointillist landscape.

The estate is an unmissable stop as it offers six educational experiences ranging from sommelier essentials to an introduction to viticulture for children.

Mystery solved Beaune is the undisputed Burgundian wine capital and a good base from which to explore the two branches of the Côte d’Or. South towards Chalon-

sur-Saône extends the Côte de Beaune with the region’s legendary whites – Meursault and Montrachet – while north to Dijon lies the Côte de Nuits with reds worshipped by connoisseurs: Vougeot, Nuits-Saint-Georges, GevreyChambertin. Before I taste them all in the town’s ostentatious Marché-auxVins (necessitating an extra suitcase for my purchases), I visit the Wine Museum.

Here, a regional relief map answers the big question in my mind; it’s the southfacing slopes with their long hours of sunshine and good natural drainage that harbour those treasured grands crus; a simple answer to an intricate mystery.

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01 Burgundy’s vineyards 02 Soil variety results in distinctive wines 03 Villages dot the countryside 04 Burgundy has a charm all its own 05 The wine region is steeped in history

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Accommodation and dining olivier-leflaive.com Experience chateaudepommard.com marcheauxvins.com

“Burgundy vineyard owners are farmers at heart ... keenly awaiting your verdict.”

Getting there airfrance.com.au Dijon, capital of the Côte-d’Or département and of the Bourgogne-Franche-Comté region, is a four-hour drive from Paris or 1 hour, 40 minutes by TGV train.

Information burgundy-tourism.com beaune-tourism.com au.france.fr

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destinationfrance

OUT AND ABOUT IN BRITTANY Between land and sea, Brittany boasts over 2700 kilometres of watersport-ready coastline, and 2000 kilometres of hiking, horseriding and cycling routes weaving through town and country along the greenways, writes Tamara Thiessen.

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amed after the ancient Breton word armorique, place by the sea, Côtes-d’Armor extends for 350 kilometres along Brittany’s coast. You can walk, golf, sail, pedal and paddle your way along one evocatively named coastline after another, from the Côte d’Émeraude, named after the colour of the sea off Saint-Malo, to the pink granite-lined Côte de Granit Rose.

Built on a knoll over the ocean, Saint-Malo’s allure comes from its indelible link with the sea; this “city of corsairs” is nicknamed for the buccaneers once commissioned to stave off foreign ships. Walk or cycle the two-kilometre-long ramparts to its ancient bastions for incredible views over the bay. Back in the old city centre, intra-muros, I follow the arrows to the colourful corsairs’ houses.

Exploration by land and by sea Brittany is a centre for thalassothérapie, and the best day spa address is the Thermes Marins de Saint-Malo.

I lap up some more leisure at the Relais & Châteaux property, Les Maisons de Bricourt, where chef Olivier Roellinger says his “corsair cuisine” expresses the adventurous seafaring and spice-trading history of France.

After downing some oysters fresh from a roadside stall, I head to the Grand Site Naturel de Ploumanac’h, and negotiate 30 hectares of crimson hued sculpted boulders at sunset.

En route to southern Brittany, I sweep by the far west region of the Finistère, 66

literally “land’s end”. The mammoth granite spur at the end of Cap Sizun culminates in 70-metre-high cliffs plunging vertiginously to the Atlantic.

The trails I’m treading are part of the sentier des Douaniers, the 1800-kilometre Customs Path from Mont-Saint-Michel to the balmy Gulf of Morbihan.

From here, I boat to Belle-Île-enMer the largest of Brittany’s islands, a haven of bright blue skies, colourful fishing ports and spectacularly craggy seashore immortalised by Monet.

Brittany’s 1000-plus-kilometre network of waymarked off-road biking reaches a peak as I pedal from the rugged Pointe des Poulains to the dunes and surf beach of the Plage de Donnant then onto the jutting sea needles of the Aiguilles de Port-Coton.

My reward for accomplishing the 50-kilometre tour de Belle-Île in a day is to to bed down at Castel Clara overhanging Port-Goulphar, with a fine gastronomic meal and thalasso treatments in the spa.

Travel file

Accommodation & Spa thalassotherapy.com maisons-de-bricourt.com castel-clara.com Getting there The regional capital, Rennes, is 1.5 hours by train from Paris-Montparnasse.

Information brittanytourism.com

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destinationfrance

“Belle-Île-en-Mer is the largest of Brittany’s islands, a haven of bright blue skies and colourful fishing ports.”

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01 Exploring Belle-île-en-Mer © Emmanual Berthier 02 Tee off beside the sea © Ronan Gladu 03 Brittany is full of pretty villages © Yannick Le Gal 04 Kayak the coves © Emmanuel Berthier. All images courtesy Brittany Tourism/Atout France

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PEARLS OF MONACO Opulence and indulgence are all in the detail in the impressive Mediterranean principality, as Jane Cornwell discovers.

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he helicopter ride from Nice to Monte-Carlo has to be one of the world’s most spectacular transfers, what with its panoramic view over a winding coastline and see-through blue sea and, as the seven minutes tick down, a face-to-face encounter with a cityscape like no other.

There, lit by sunshine, are the fairytale turrets of the famous casino. There, rising from a promontory, the splendid cream façade of the Prince’s Palace.

There, everywhere, buildings – lowrise, high-rise, skyscraper – wedged along tiers built into the rock. Flowers bloom. Greenery sprouts. Boats sway in sheltered bays alongside gleaming, slightly mean-looking superyachts.

“Welcome to Monaco, Madame,” says my limousine driver, who is waiting at the helipad to whisk me to the Hôtel Hermitage, a five-star pile a few minutes’ drive away. Everywhere is close in Monaco, a tiny independent city-state (Monte-Carlo is one of its four districts) taking up just 202 hectares. But what it packs inside its borders – from

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spas, shops and restaurants to arts, sports and resorts – is as impressive as it is opulent. No place does luxury quite like Monaco, where the high life is routine, whims are for indulging and nothing is too much trouble.

Oh, and where never has one woman been called ‘Madame’ so much, in such a short space of time.

Monte-Carlo grandeur The Hôtel Hermitage turns out to be a Belle-Époque gem whose tuxedoed doormen seem genuinely delighted to see me (“Madame! Please! Come in!”). It has gilt fixtures, designer sofas and a soaring stained-glass cupola under which one takes breakfast, and an intimate feel for a spread with 278 rooms. A honeycomb of subterranean corridors leads to the Michelin-starred Le Vistamar restaurant, the sumptuous Hôtel de Paris – another of the four hotels run by Monte-Carlo Société des Bains de Mer – and Monaco’s largest wellness centre, Thermes Marins, all of which are expecting me.

destinationmonaco

“No place does luxury quite like Monaco, where the high life is routine.”

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01 Alain Ducasse à l’Hôtel de Paris © Pierre Monetta 02 Monaco’s Michelin-starred restaurants produce exquisite meals © Monte-Carlo SBM 03 Hôtel Hermitage dressed for the festive season © Monte-Carlo SBM 04 Hôtel Métropole 05 The Monaco Grand Prix is an annual highlight

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First up, my suite, which has mintgreen walls, a white leather bedhead, a mint-green leather chest of drawers that resembles an explorer’s trunk and long-stemmed white roses in a vase.

A wrought-iron balcony overlooks the marina and a small funfair that lights up at night; directly below are ropedoff hot tubs intended for private lolling while sipping champagne. In the near distance is the palace, at which I stare, imagining, as I sample from the box of complimentary macarons – mint green, pale pink, lemon yellow – placed on my bedside table.

The sommelier at Le Vistamar recommends a white wine from central France, Madame, to accompany my starter, the enticingly titled ‘Delicate Velvet: swimmer crab broth with seaweed and Perles de Monte-Carlo oyster’. I consume both to a recorded 72

soundtrack of Gregory Porter singing Nat King Cole, my bag resting on its very own stool, a light fashioned from metal leaves throwing dapples across the tablecloth. Chef Benoît Witz is apparently all about fresh local ingredients cooked with restrained modernism; I have sea bream with barigoule jus followed by green apple sorbet palate cleanser then a scoop of chocolate ice-cream, topped with gold leaf, on a tiny bed of meringue.

Sights of the city Wrapped in a white towelling robe, I pad my way to the cavernous Thermes Marins spa, with its heated indoor seawater pool, cardio training area with panoramic sea view and boutique where a Roberto Cavalli playsuit is discounted to a mere 694 euros. In a scented room with a large porthole I’m treated to a

fierce jet bath then slathered in Dead Sea mud to draw out nasty toxins, which I duly shower away to emerge, glowing.

I take a stroll around town, starting in Casino Square where, at its centre, a large silver obelisk by British sculptor Anish Kapoor reflects the goings-on: the idling Ferraris and Lamborghinis, a backdrop for selfies and vehicles, literally, for showing off; the Frenchstyle Casino Gardens with their statues, spouting fountains and calming tranquillity; the entrance to the marblefloored Metropole shopping centre and its (count them) 80 boutiques.

And of course, the Casino, which is also home to the Monte-Carlo ballet and a theatre. The façade of this European gaming temple is as ornate as it ever was; its interior, however, is currently camouflaged by Belgian designer Charles Kaisin, whose cheeky

destinationmonaco

06 Alain Ducasse à l’Hôtel de Paris © Pierre Monetta 07 Le Vistamar’s terrace © Monte-Carlo SBM 08 Monaco’s fabled Casino 09 Classic cars and high-end shopping are de rigueur © Tom Claeren

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installation swathes chairs, tables and even vases in red-and-white diamond fabric, referencing both card games and the royal family’s coat of arms.

A locavore journey Lunchtime, and I’m on the eighth floor of the palatial Hôtel de Paris, whose legendary wine cellar harbours some 600,000 bottles, some of which have made their way to the refurbished Le Grill, whose meats are cooked to perfection in full view of the clientele – many of who come from all over Europe for the signature soufflé: huge, fluffy, topped with Grand Marnier.

Monaco is a foodie’s paradise; later, over green tea in an office too small for his charisma, I meet Italian chef Paolo Sari, the world’s first organic Michelin chef, who applies his 100 per cent organic rule to the four restaurants

inside the Monte-Carlo Beach, a luxury resort set in a terracotta building atop a rocky promontory. A committed locavore – all ingredients are sourced from 15 gardens and farms within a 100-kilometre radius of Monte-Carlo – the handsome, blue-eyed Paolo is his own advertisement for healthy eating.

“The future of this planet relies on us being responsible for what we eat and produce,” he says, flashing a grin. “You just have to open your heart and soul.”

It’s a philosophy shared by lauded French-West Indian chef Marcel Ravin of the gourmet-tastic, Michelin-starred Blue Bay restaurant, which has its very own farm with vegetables and flowers and where dinner begins with a palate awakener of pear, apple and celeriac and, from my waiter, a question.

“Are you ready to travel, Madame?” he asks, preparing me

for a dining experience that will feature the finest and most skilful blend of diverse influences in Monaco and, well, the universe.

Out on the bay, under a starry sky, the lights on the yachts twinkle.

“Yes,” I say. “Madame is ready.”

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Information visitmonaco.com montecarlosbm.com Accommodation & Dining hotelhermitagemontecarlo.com monte-carlo-beach.com montecarlobay.com Spa thermesmarinsmontecarlo.com Getting there Emirates flies to Nice via Dubai from Australian capitals, with complimentary Monacair helicopter transfers to Monte-Carlo for first-class passengers (or €79 per business-class passenger). emirates.com

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THE BUGATTI DNA With the release of the newest Bugatti hypercar this year, Amelia Hungerford takes a drive through the tumultuous history of the French automaker.

Image Š Dominic Fraser/Bugatti Automobiles S.A.S.

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ou could almost sum up the Bugatti philosophy in the motto of its founder: “Nothing is too beautiful and nothing is too expensive.” In the 108 years since Ettore Bugatti established his eponymous automobile manufacture, the maker of the world’s most beguiling hypercars has lost none of its association with power, luxury and excess.

The first of a new Bugatti generation, the Chiron, is now rolling out. Carbon fibre, anodised aluminium, handstitched leather, titanium and even one-carat diamond membranes in the speakers strike a balance between beauty and precious-but-functional materials of which Ettore would surely approve.

This is before you even get to its physics-defying statistics, including producing 1500 horsepower (1103 kilowatts) from a luxurious road vehicle fitted with every possible comfort, down to a cooled glove compartment.

While others are looking to hybridity to increase their power, Bugatti proudly embraces a newly redesigned W16 petrol engine, with two-stage turbocharging to eliminate any lag when accelerating from a standstill. Which, by the way, it is expected to do at astonishing speeds: under 2.5 seconds to 100 kilometres per hour and less than 13.6 seconds to reach 300 kilometres per hour. Its top speed, electronically limited for road use, will be 420 kilometres per hour.

The Chiron was first presented at the 2016 Geneva International Motor Show.

Before the show ended it had garnered advance orders for one third of the total series of 500, the base price of €2.4 million ($4.1 million) no obstacle.

This comes after the decade-long reign of the Bugatti Veyron, the

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first production vehicle to produce 1000 horsepower (736 kilowatts) while its Super Sport model reached 1200 horsepower (880 kilowatts).

When Chassis #450, the Veyron Grand Sport Vitesse ‘La Finale’, was completed in 2015, it felt like the end of an automotive era.

As much as this achievement pushed the boundaries of engineering, it was also a triumph of the Bugatti name.

For decades it had lain dormant, relegated to producing spare parts and aeroplane components. What the Veyron really represented was a rebirth.

Hot off the track Ettore Bugatti’s first vehicle was on track to being manufactured before he turned 21. Eight years later, in 1909, he established his own company in Molsheim, Alsace. It was an exciting time for the burgeoning world of automobiles and motorsport. Bugatti quickly made its name on the racetrack, claiming second place in the 1911 French Grand Prix.

As extraordinary as the performance of a Bugatti was, each car was also designed to embody aesthetic values.

The Type 13 Brescia, for example,

Past modern Bugatti models haven’t passed Australian road and vehicle regulations, but proposed changes could see hypercars such as the Chiron arriving on our shores from 2019, with specialist and enthusiast vehicles, such as the Ferrari LaFerrari and Lamborghini Centenario, also likely to be imported under the rarity criterion. Such cars will not require conversion from left-hand to right-hand-drive, although they will need agreement from the state or territory.

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which dominated the track in the early post-World War I years, featured an egg-shaped radiator grille in honour of his designer father’s belief that the egg is the most perfect natural form. As the chassis was lowered in future models, the egg became a horseshoe, something that remains in the Bugatti DNA today.

If any vehicle defines Bugatti’s racing legacy, however, it is the teardropshaped Type 35. From its debut in 1924 until final production in 1931, the road-legal Grand Prix car claimed more than 2000 victories. Off the track, Bugatti’s ambition was embodied by the Type 41 Royale, the stately motor car made for aristocrats and nobility.

Although 25 were planned, six were produced and only three were sold; the realities of the Great Depression curbed demand for the most expensive car ever made and parts of its powerful

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01 & 02 The super-fast $4-million super car, the Bugatti Chiron © Benjamin Antony Monn 03 The six Legends outside the Bugatti headquarters in Molsheim, France. All images © Bugatti Automobiles S.A.S.

Production of the Type 13 Brescia Bugatti was interrupted by World War I, after which time the lightning-quick cars (racing at around 110 kilometres per hour) took out Le Mans and Grand Prix races.

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engine were reimagined for Bugatti’s motorised Railcar, one of the first highspeed railway systems in the world.

Bugatti reborn It was this development that kept Bugatti afloat throughout the turbulent years of the 1930s, a period that saw the creation of the first cars bearing the unmistakeable design of Ettore’s eldest son, Jean, with elegant, modern bodies for a growing breed of touring cars.

His crowning achievement was the Type 57SC Atlantic of 1936, which sported a spinal fin, kidney-shaped doors and windows, and an avant-garde fastback body. Under the bonnet, the supercharged eight-cylinder engine produced 156.6 kilowatts for a top speed of 200 kilometres per hour.

It was an ode to Art Deco design on wheels. Only three were produced and, just three years after its release, Jean Bugatti, Ettore’s heir and the future of the company, died in a crash.

World War II broke out three weeks later, during which the Molsheim factory was ruined. Ettore died on

21 August 1947. The company never achieved the same success and was bought by Hispano Suiza in 1963.

In 1987, Italian businessman Romano Artioli bought the rights to the Bugatti name. He debuted the EB 110 super sports car in 1991, but only 140 cars were built before he filed for bankruptcy.

Volkswagen bought the trademark rights in 1998. Since then, nothing has been done by halves. A series of concept cars led to the announcement of the Bugatti Veyron 16.4, named for the driver that brought Ettore his final victory at Le Mans, beginning an era that realised the creation of the fastest, most powerful, most expensive luxury production car.

The Veyron was limited to a production run of 300, plus 150 for its roadster editions. All of these have been sold.

Bugatti is once more a byword for boundary-pushing performance, painstaking attention to detail and ambition. The Veyron marked an era in the development of hypercars; you can be sure the Chiron will do the same. bugatti.com

The Type 35 was the most successful 0f the Bugatti race cars, winning 1000-plus races in its time, notably the Targa Florio endurance race for five consecutive years and the 1926 Grand Prix World Championship.

The luxurious and enormous Bugatti Type 41 Royale was devised when a contract to build aircraft engines for the French military fell through. The onset of the Great Depression meant few were ever sold, however.

With a top speed of 200 kilometres per hour and a shapely avant-garde body, the powerful 1936 Bugatti Type 57SC Atlantic earned a reputation as the first supercar ever made. Only three were ever produced.

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THE HIGH LIFE Winter in the French Alps is a time for thrilling ski runs, chic chalets and, of course, après-ski. Amelia Hungerford heads to the slopes to discover the best five-star ski resorts.

COURCHEVEL Best for Seeing and being seen with fine dining and even finer hotels.

Image © Courchevel Tourisme/David André

The vibe Unabashed luxury with a touch of vintage

glam. Courchevel has long been defined by its reputation for glitz and glamour. It’s arguably the best known of the eight ski resorts that make up Les Trois Vallées, the largest linked ski area in the world, and it’s certainly the most lavish. Stroll through the fairylight-adorned streets for some designer retail therapy.

Must-do Savour Courchevel’s artistic reputation with winter’s Art at the Top exhibition, or immerse yourself in the kitchen of boutique Relais & Châteaux hotel, Le Chabichou, with a Michelin-starred cooking lesson. Other celestial dining delights include Pierre Gagnaire pour Les Airelles, Yannick Alleno’s Le 1947 inside LVMH’s Cheval Blanc Courchevel and Jean-Rémi Caillon’s Le Kintessence in Le K2 Palace.

Top suites There are only 24 hotels that have been honoured with France’s above-five-star Palace Distinction, and three of them are here: Les Airelles, Le K2 Palace and Cheval Blanc.

Where is it? In the Tarentaise Valley, a three-hour drive from both Geneva and Lyon, or brace yourself for arrival by plane or helicopter at Courchevel Altiport, the highest in Europe with one of the world’s shortest runways at 537 metres.

The figures There are 150 kilometres of runs for your skiing pleasure, with a majority catering for beginners. courchevel.com

MEGÈVE Best for A magical, romantic Christmas at the foot of Mont Blanc.

Image © Mairie de Megève/Simon Garnier

The vibe A pretty Alpine village – complete with

VAL D’ISÈRE Best for On-the-slopes adventures with all the five-

wooden chalets straight out of a fairytale – that just happens to be surrounded by excellent skiing.

Must-do A horse-drawn sleigh is the most picturesque way to see the village. Go for a snowshoe walk and spend an evening in an igloo with the Apérigloo experience.

Top suites Be among the first to stay in the new 55-room Four Seasons Hotel Megève, opened in December as the brand’s first retreat in the European mountains. Expect two-Michelin-starred cuisine at the new home of Julien Gatillon’s Le 1920.

Where is it? A one-hour drive from Geneva within the Mont Blanc massif.

The figures There are 235 trails, plus snow parks and four Nordic ski areas, but if that’s not enough you can use the Mont Blanc Unlimited Pass to access three countries and 998 kilometres of terrain. megeve.com

star après trimmings.

The vibe High altitude, two glaciers (shared with

fellow Espace Killy resort, Tignes) and great terrain makes ‘Val’ a snow-sure choice for experienced riders looking for refinement.

Must-do Spin out with a BMW ice driving experience and get a taste for the après scene at the original La Folie Douce, a mix of nightclub, cabaret and food.

Top suites Choose from six five-star hotels, including Hôtel Christiana, a Val institution since 1949 with its traditional decor and elegant charm.

Where is it? Less than three hours from Lyon or Geneva, in the Tarentaise Valley.

The figures Espace Killy features 153 runs over 300 kilometres. Nearly 70 per cent of its runs are for intermediates, with another 17 per cent for experts. valdisere.com

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Image © Val d’Isère Tourisme/andyparant.com

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CHAMONIX-MONT-BLANC Best for Natural experiences that let you feel the majesty of the Alps.

The vibe A mountaineering spirit seems to pervade

VAL THORENS Best for Thrill-seekers who want to feel on top of the world at Europe’s highest resort.

The vibe Cosmopolitan, playful and dynamic, not to

mention the winner of the title of World’s Best Resort at the World Ski Awards in 2013, 2014 and 2016. Like Courchevel, ‘Val Tho’ is part of Les Trois Vallées’ super-sized area.

Must-do Get your thrills on a paragliding or paramotor adventure, or fly between runs at Orelle and Val Tho on the 1300-metre Tyrolienne, the highest zipline in the world.

Top suites For something different, spend a night in Pashmina’s Igloo-Pod Experience, a geodesic tent for two on the hotel’s rooftop.

Where is it? Three hours’ drive from Geneva or Lyon international airport.

The figures More than 85 per cent of its terrain is above 1800 metres, making it a perfect choice for spring skiing.

Image © Val Thorens Tourisme/Cyril Cattin

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Cham’. Look up at the imposing face of Mont Blanc while you stroll the chalet-lined village.

Must-do Take the cable car up to jagged Aiguille du Midi and take ‘A Step into the Void’ on a glass skywalk suspended 1035 metres in the air.

Top suites Hôtel Mont-Blanc has been a favourite with well-heeled riders since opening in 1849, while Hôtel Le Hameau Albert 1er has been run by the Maillet-Carrier family since 1903.

Where is it? Chamonix is just one hour’s drive from Geneva or Lyon, and two hours from Milan.

The figures With four main high-altitude ski areas, and six nestled in the valley, Chamonix’s terrain is varied enough to cater for all. Like Megève, Chamonix is part of the Mont-Blanc Natural Resort. chamonix.com montblancnaturalresort.com

A RIVERBOAT ON THE RHÔNE Carolyn Lockhart boards the luxury riverboat ms Emerald to cruise on the Rhône and the Saône from Arles to Lyon through the gentle countryside of Provence and southern Burgundy.

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n a golden autumn evening in Provence we drive down an avenue of plane trees planted

by Napoleon III to shade his troops on the march. Beyond the polished white trunks lie small vineyards where each leaf seems infused with an artist’s palette of yellows brushed with scarlet and bronze.

Everything has a luminous quality.

It’s the celebrated light of Provence that attracted van Gogh and other Impressionists to this part of France.

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We’re on our way to a gala dinner at the historic Château du Duché d’Uzès, the ancestral home of the current and 17th Duke, Jacques de Crussol d’Uzès.

A tour of the 12th-century castle is followed by a champagne reception in the walled courtyard. Our splendid private dinner is served in the vaulted stone dining room. Sweet sounds of stringed instruments add to the romantic atmosphere.

Later we return to our Tauck riverboat, ms Emerald, moored in Avignon.

My spacious cabin welcomes me with its inviting bed facing a wall of sliding doors opening to the river. I part the curtains and look forward to seeing the misty riverbank sliding by when I wake.

In the footsteps of van Gogh Arles and Avignon are synonymous with Vincent van Gogh and it is here that he spent the most creative period of his life from February 1888 to May 1889. His work was not understood and he only sold one painting in his lifetime. It’s

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ironic, then, that his Laboureur dans un champ, painted from his window in the Saint-Paul Asylum, recently sold in New York by Christie’s for US$81 million.

Arles is a lovely small city to explore on foot, with many well-preserved remains of the Roman era, including an arena and a theatre. We see the hospital and the cloisters that van Gogh painted many times, and the yellow cafe where he produced Café Terrace at Night still functions as a coffee house in the corner of a pretty little square shaded by plane trees.

From Avignon we visit the asylum in Saint-Rémy de Provence where van Gogh was sent after cutting off his ear.

When he felt well he painted furiously in the grounds of the hospital. It is here that he produced celebrated Irises; the plants are still grown in the gardens. signatureluxurytravel.com.au

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Information & Cruise Tauck’s 14-day French Escapade includes two nights’ accommodation in MonteCarlo and Paris at each end of the nine-night river cruise. Price includes all excursions, food, beverages, tips, local transport and guides. tauck.com.au traveltheworld.com.au

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White horses and black bulls The Camargue is the semi-wild plain not far from Arles where cowboys, known as gardians, ride an ancient breed of feisty horse. The foals are born almost black, turning to white as they age.

Black bulls are bred here to fight in France and Spain. The region is also famous for abundant birdlife, including thousands of migratory flamingos.

The Laurent family invites us to lunch on their working ranch. Three generations of this handsome dynasty, mounted on horseback and wearing traditional dress, are lined up to greet us. We walk into lunch in the large barn to live music by the Gipsy Kings, and feast on a buffet of rustic dishes, including the traditional long-simmered bull-meat stew.

After lunch we move to an arena where four athletic young men taunt a young bull then run to leap up the walls just ahead of the enraged animal. It’s a daring performance, but most of us feel sorry for the bull as we know he has been “tickled with a trident” behind the scenes.

Glorious châteaux There seems to be a picturesque castle or abbey around every bend in the river and Tauck organises some private visits, often escorted by the owner.

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01 ms Emerald cruises through Vienne on the Rhône 02 Tauck riverboat interiors embody understated luxury 03 & 04 Château de Cormatin is a favourite stop © Carolyn Lockhart 05 The historic city of Avignon is a highlight of cruising the Rhône

My favourite is Château de Cormatin near Tornus on the Saône in southern Burgundy. It was built to impress in the 17th century with towers, a moat and magnificent gardens. Its modern owners have lovingly restored it, preserving the richly coloured interiors and retaining the period collections and furnishings from different periods.

A moveable feast There are many highlights for foodies both on and off the boat. In Avignon we join chef Sergei as he shops for produce in the markets. “You can have a taste of anything here,” he tells us as he buys oysters and cheeses for tonight’s dinner.

The itinerary includes visits to renowned vineyards such as Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Château de Rully, where we have a guided tasting and the opportunity to buy some special wines from the cellars.

In Chalon-sur-Saône happy pink umbrellas are strung high above the narrow streets. Here we visit the Edmond Fallot Mustard shop; the green tarragon was already on my shopping list. Then it’s on to a tasting across the way to try tiny warm artisan pastries.

The Compass Rose dining room serves breakfast and lunch buffets and hot dishes cooked to order. At dinner an outstanding menu of regional delicacies and French classics is prepared by Sergei and his team.

I have travelled with Tauck, the familyowned American company, before and have been most impressed by its low-key luxury, attention to detail and warm knowledgeable staff. Tauck is rapidly establishing a market in Australia with riverboat cruising being much in demand. Looking at the brochure of European River Cruises for 2018, I can’t wait to go back myself.

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All images © Palmer Johnson

Hypercar on water Owners of the new Bugatti Chiron can take their purchase up a notch with a matching Palmer Johnson yacht.

It’s not hard to see the Bugatti DNA in the Niniette 66. The latest yacht from Palmer Johnson, the first in a new series ranging from 15 to 26.8 metres in length, echoes the sweeping curvature of the Chiron hypercar beautifully, right down to its two-tone colour split in lightweight carbon fibre.

The wide, stabilised hull cuts a sleek silhouette as it carves through the waves, with a shallow draft and low profile for manoeuvring among islets and the packed marinas of the Riviera.

Design features such as perfect symmetry, accentuated by a centre line, liberal carbon fibre and a horseshoe-shaped feature wall in the salon all add to the yacht’s distinctive Bugatti personality.

On deck, as many as 12 guests can gather around the fire pit or the combined Jacuzzi, sun pad and champagne bar, while below, the salon and sole master suite are private sanctuaries featuring the finest materials. As with all Bugatti

creations, colours, materials and finishes are entirely customisable.

The yacht shares its name with Bugatti’s first foray into boat design back in 1930, a futuristic one-off creation designed for speed for Prince Carlo Maurizio Ruspoldi, dubbed Niniette after Ettore’s youngest daughter.

The new iteration upholds the French car maker’s values of exclusivity and beauty, with a limited edition of just 66 available. bugattininiette.com signatureluxurytravel.com.au

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CÔTE D’AZUR AND MORE Discover history, culture and oodles of joie de vivre on a luxury cruise in France, writes Sally Macmillan.

Monégasque glamour with Regent Seven Seas Cruises

are far from flashy, but their “informally elegant” atmosphere, fabulous food and superlative service make you Lounging in Seven Seas Explorer’s feel as though you’re sailing on your horizon pool when the ship is docked own immaculately crewed yacht. Al in ultra-glam Monte-Carlo gives you fresco dining and sleeping under the an up-close view of dozens of dazzling stars on Balinese beds are signature superyachts bobbing in the harbour. Is SeaDream experiences. SeaDream I’s that James Packer’s Arctic P over there? seven-day round-trip from Nice visits Monte-Carlo has long been a haven for gazillionaires and was the perfect setting Cannes, Saint-Tropez, Corsica and Monte-Carlo in July; the Ferrari drive for Seven Seas Explorer’s christening is a thrilling highlight. seadream.com

by Charlene, Princess of Monaco; the 750-guest ship is the most luxurious (and expensive) ever built. Its sevenPonant for gourmands night Return to Glamour cruise from France’s only cruise line is, Monte-Carlo to Barcelona departs on naturellement, made up of sleek, chic 8 May and calls at Antibes, Marseille ships. The 264-guest L’Austral has three and Port-Vendres. While in Monte, a almost identical sisters and the line visit to the famous gold-and-marble is launching four new equally elegant Casino is de rigueur; art enthusiasts 184-guest vessels in the next couple should bookmark the Picasso Museum of years (plus the world’s first luxury in Antibes’ medieval Château Grimaldi icebreaker set to arrive in 2021). Even and the Museum of Modern Art in the crew members are exceptionally Céret, about 40 kilometres from attractive – and bilingual. L’Austral’s pretty Port-Vendres. rssc.com Gastronomy, Vineyards and Grand Crus cruise in April 2019 promises a divine immersion in all things French, SeaDreaming in Saint-Tropez fine wining and dining being top of The only time I’ve ridden a jet ski the list. Among the onboard highlights was in the waters off Saint-Tropez, a are gala dinners prepared by the chefs heady experience that fitted right in to from Michelin-starred restaurants, the jet-setting character of this glitzy destination. I was cruising on SeaDream accompanied by the best grand crus from the renowned Médoc region. The II, one of just two boutique, 112-guest itinerary includes Bordeaux, wine capital ships privately owned by SeaDream of the world, from where you’ll visit Yacht Club; the jet skis are among the illustrious châteaux in breathtakingly fleet of fabulous water toys stocked in beautiful countryside. ponant.com the ship’s onboard marina. These ships 86

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Marseille by Viking Ocean Cruises Since I sailed on Viking Star’s christening cruise to Norway in April 2015, the new ocean cruise line has expanded to five identical 930-guest ships that cruise to the world’s most desirable destinations.

There’s so much demand for this sophisticated but understated style of cruising that by 2022 there will be eight ships in the fleet. This year, Viking Star, Sky and Orion will sail eight-day Iconic Western Mediterranean cruises from Barcelona to Rome, calling at Marseille, Saint-Tropez and Monte-Carlo. Spring, autumn and winter are the best seasons to visit southern France; I was in Marseille in October and the weather was warm, but not stiflingly hot. The crowds had dispersed and Vieux Port was still buzzing. vikingcruises.com.au

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01 The Regent Seven Seas Cruises lifestyle 02 Viking Star in Monte-Carlo © Alastair Miller 03 Monaco’s Casino is a must-do when in port

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Silversea, Nice and Matisse In July, the refurbished, 382-passenger Silver Whisper sets off from Nice on a seven-day Mediterranean cruise. It’s worth spending a day or two pre-cruise in the beautiful city; there’s much more to it than the instantly recognisable Promenade des Anglais. However, when you’re strolling the famous seafront, make sure you pop into Hotel Negresco for a cocktail. The Old Town dates back to the 1700s and its narrow streets are packed with restaurants, bars and boutiques; the flower and food market is one of the best in France. Musée Matisse is a must-do; it took me two visits to Nice to find it, but it’s about 15 minutes by taxi from the Old Town. Silver Whisper visits Saint-Tropez, Marseille and Corsica en route to Barcelona. silversea.com signatureluxurytravel.com.au

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FLOATING THROUGH FRANCE

01 Barge Travel Connection runs fascinating cycling trips 02 See France’s lavish surrounds with Uniworld 03 Belmond launches two new luxe barges in 2018

Delve into the earthly delights and rich history of this captivating country by barge or river boat. It’s time for the sophisticated traveller to take to the water.

France by barge This intimate mode of travel invites guests to slow down and savour the quaint villages along waterways that are too narrow for the larger river ships to access. Choose to go it alone with a rental or opt for a catered (and piloted) hotel barge. These vessels carry as few as two passengers, or as many as 14. Popular destinations are Burgundy 88

and Champagne, the Loire Valley, the Canal du Midi, Alsace and Lorraine, and Bordeaux. During the day, cycle along the towpath or beyond to explore wineries, castles and farms.

The four-cabin Belmond Pivoine will offer guests the chance to dive into the Champagne region in style when she launches in 2018. She features a heated plunge pool, plush cabins with marble

ensuites, and a choice of lounging and dining areas for passengers to indulge in the fine food and wine of the region.

Guests spend six days making their way from Châlons-en-Champagne to Meaux, 50 kilometres from Paris. Along the way, you’ll enjoy exclusive tastings, Michelinstarred dinners, and private tours of some of the region’s finest champagne houses. Bicycles are available if you fancy going off on your own.

In June/July 2018, European Waterways is offering 12 passengers the chance to discover both Burgundy and Champagne over the course of two weeks, with a night in Paris in between. They will float along the River Marne through

Giverny, and through the countryside of southwest France to Bordeaux.

History buffs can explore sites they’ve only read about on a cruise to Normandy with APT. From centuries-old monasteries along the Route des Abbayes, to the beaches of Normandy where Allied forces landed during the D-Day invasion in World War II, the seven-night Paris-toParis Romantic Seine itinerary allows passengers to be as active as they like with a choice of excursions at each port. The 144-passenger AmaLyra offers staterooms and suites with French balconies, and award-winning dining.

Lovers of art can immerse themselves in the scenery that inspired the masters in an eight-day Lyon & Provence cruise with Viking River Cruises. In Arles, where Vincent van Gogh painted 200 artworks over 15 months, passengers can take a private painting class and visit some of the famous scenes he immortalised Champagne’s peaceful vineyards before meandering down Burgundy Canal in the on canvas. Viking’s modern, light-filled ships offer destination-focused dining wine region of Southern Burgundy.

Booking a journey by barge can be done and ultra-comfortable staterooms.

Travellers who have been putting off directly through the operator, or via a river cruising for fear of giving up the cruise agent offering a curated collection freedom to travel at their own pace can of themed or destination-oriented trips. rest easy; a growing number of operators Hotels Afloat has a bespoke series of allow guests to tinker with the details barge cruises on offer, including one of a cruise as much as they like. Avalon aboard La Belle Époque. Another travel Waterways has customisable details agent to consider is Barge Travel ranging from how soft you’d like your Connection. Begin by selecting the pillow, to where and when you’d like to region you want to visit, and decide on dine, and even the pace at which you’d your barge of choice from there. like to sightsee along the way. You can also pre-arrange additional excursions.

France by river boat The 11-day Burgundy & Provence Cruising is an effortless way to immerse cruise plies the Seine and Rhône rivers, yourself in some of the country’s most enticing experiences. The myriad options savouring the sights and tastes of the Burgundy wine region before sailing now on offer enable you to select the through the South of France via Lyon ship and shore excursions that best suit to the French Riviera. Avalon Waterways’ your interests, whether wine tasting, all-suite ships offer spacious lodgings history, art, adventure or gastronomy. with floor-to-ceiling windows that Stepping aboard one of Uniworld’s standout ships is to embark on a journey slide open to become a balcony – just what you need to make the most of the in lavish surrounds. The 154-passenger spectacular scenery floating on by.

SS Antoinette is inspired by Marie Antoinette’s 18th-century Château de Versailles, while the new 128-passenger Travel file belmond.com SS Joie de Vivre pays homage to 20theuropeanwaterways.com century Paris. The 15-day, four-river hotelsafloat.com A Portrait of Majestic France cruise is bargetravel.com.au uniworld.com tailored to those who love the finer aptouring.com.au things in life, sailing to Normandy vikingcruises.com.au and visiting Claude Monet’s garden in avalonwaterways.com.au

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BEYOND BORA BORA Home to a bounty of vanilla plantations, islet wineries and private island getaways, Dilvin Yasa looks past Tahiti’s heavy hitters and dives into the emerald waters of its gorgeous lesser-known islands.

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’m going to be honest; when you’re lying by your palm-fringed private pool at the grand Four Seasons Resort Bora Bora, it’s difficult to imagine there could be more to life than this.

And cheeky stay at InterContinental Moorea Resort & Spa aside, it’s even harder to imagine that there could be more to the islands of Tahiti than Bora Bora and Moorea.

Literature tells you this is not the case, of course, since the islands of Tahiti are actually 118 islands and atolls spread across five idyllic archipelagos – the Society Islands, Tuamotus, Marquesas, Gambiers and Australs – each one of them a haven of powdersoft motus ringed by lush palm trees.

Curious about what lies beyond those jagged peaks? Dig deeper, delve further and be adventurous; nature will repay you in the most spectacular of ways.

Into the hills of Taha’a Motoring along in a water taxi from nearby Raiatea (a 45-minute flight from Tahiti), it’s the sticky sweet scent of vanilla that has you enchanted long before somebody screams, “Look at all that amazing coral!”

The coral, of course, is expected; the vanilla tends not to be – until you realise that you’re heading to the island that produces 80 per cent of the world-famous Tahitian vanilla, its farms dotting the island’s gentle hills.

Although popular with snorkellers for its shallow coral garden between Motu 90

Tautau and Motu Maharare, where you can drift-snorkel through scores of rainbow-coloured fish, the clear highlight in Taha’a is hiking Mount Temehani, with the island’s scenic plantations interspersed with banana, watermelon and coconut groves.

Feeling lazy? Jeep safari tours take in not only the hills but also those aforementioned vanilla plantations and local pearl farms – known to be of exceptional quality here.

Private residences are available for rent, but this is also the home of Le Taha’a Island Resort & Spa, a sumptuous Polynesian-style property known to offer all those luxuries (butler service, babysitting, fine food) often unheard of in tiny faraway islands like this.

Stake your claim, close your eyes and embrace the feeling of mana. The Relais & Châteaux resort has three restauarants on site, featuring French-Polynesian fusion cuisine and an inviting ambience, whether it’s a feet-in-the-sand casual lunch, cosy dinner for two, or sumptuous open-air breakfast. You can also arrange a romantic private dinner in your overwater villa or breakfast by the lagoon delivered by canoe.

Embracing the water in Tikehau Pink-sand beaches and azure lagoons aside, it’s difficult to establish which is the greater sell of this atoll located a 55-minute flight from Tahiti. Is it the population board that reads 529 residents? Or is it the abundant marine

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Upmarket options

• Charter a yacht or catamaran from the nautical centre of Tahiti’s islands, Raiatea. You can go solo or sail with a team of dedicated staff.

life so teeming with eagle rays, marine turtles and dolphins that it left Jacques Cousteau’s research crew enthralled?

We dare say it’s the heady combination of relative solitude and the visual spectre of life underwater that proves irresistible to those who venture here.

We’re pleasantly surprised to discover that refined, romantic accommodation options are plentiful. You can opt for a thatched-roof overwater bungalow at Tikehau Pearl Beach Resort perhaps (arguably the jewel in the atoll’s crown), or look into hiring a private island retreat such as Tikehau Fafarua Lodge, 92

where a team of discreet staff caters for guests’ every whim, and a boat and captain offer excursions on the lagoon. Just the thing for those seeking a refined haven in absolute privacy.

It’s clear Tikehau is all about water activities, and as the generations of fishermen who call the atoll home will tell you, all exploration of Tikehau should begin – and end – with a dive or snorkel around her coral remnants before enjoying a private picnic on a motu.

Ask your guide to show you around the tiny islet of Bird Island for something truly spectacular, but don’t discount

• Curate your French Polynesian experience by hiring a palatial private villa, such as the spectacular five-bedroom Bora Bora One set on three hectares with its own wedge of secluded white-sand beach, or The Private Island Rangiroa, which offers authentic Polynesian style with a luxurious twist. Most high-end properties will furnish you with a chef and housekeeping staff, as well as the means for water sports and other activities.

• Get to know the island once formerly owned by Marlon Brando and now frequented by the likes of Barack Obama.

The Brando, an eco-friendly resort on the island of Tetiaroa, not only features some of the finest villas and in-house restaurants on this part of the globe, but also treats guests to a sea turtle sanctuary, cooking classes, a coral nursery and a kids’ club. Access to The Brando is by Air Tetiaroa, a 20-minute flight from Tahiti.

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01 Tikehau Pearl Beach Resort offers authentic Polynesian style 02 Ultimate relaxation at InterContinental Moorea Resort & Spa 03 The remote and beautiful The Brando is eco-friendly 04 Le Sauvage private island hideaway takes switching off to new heights 05 Overwater bungalows at Hotel Kia Ora Resort & Spa 06 Cruising around Moorea Island 07 The expansive private villa known as Bora Bora One

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the joy that comes with exploring the island on your own – particularly the quaint township of Tuherahera – by bicycle at a leisurely pace.

Rangiroa and rosé You’ve enjoyed the bold reds of Bordeaux and emptied Mendoza of its Malbec, now what say you to kicking back under a canopy of tropical palms and indulging in a local rosé courtesy of Dominique Auroy Winery? Located on a small islet accessible only by boat, it’s an unusual thing drinking wine in a tropical haven where grapes must be transported by canoe during harvest, but unforgettable just the same.

Even if wine is not your thing, all is not lost; although Rangiroa – a necklace of 400-plus islets strung together over 177 kilometres, just a 55-minute flight from Tahiti – is making a name for itself in the wine world, most make the pilgrimage

for its breathtaking dive spots: Tiputa Pass, Avatoru Pass and the Blue Lagoon.

This is indeed the place to live largely underwater, however, there are two above-sea-level commitments every traveller should make: watching the dolphins frolic at Tiputa Pass at sunset, and commandeering a speedboat to check out the main villages of Avaturo and Tiputa. With their coral churches, craft centres and colourful restaurants, there’s no better way to get a sense of what island life really is.

Then return to your lodge, be it the spectacular Hotel Kia Ora Resort & Spa proper, where bungalows and pool villas lie interspersed between lush expanses of palms, or its private island hideaway, Le Sauvage, where you can unwind and dream under a canopy of stars.

Le Sauvage is an hour’s boat ride fom the resort, its remote location offering you the chance to truly get away from

it all without interruption; access to emails, phone calls and even electricity is blissfully impossible here.

Travel file

Accommodation fourseasons.com/borabora moorea.intercontinental.com tikehaupearlbeachresort.com fafarualodge.com/en letahaa.com rangiroalagoon.com/en boraboraone.com tahiti-homes.com thebrando.com Getting there Air Tahiti Nui flies to Tahiti three times a week via Auckland, with Air Tahiti providing connections to the outer islands. Aremiti offers a ferry service between Tahiti and Moorea. airtahitinui.com airtahiti.com aremiti.net Experience vindetahiti.com dreamyachtcharter.com tahitiyachtcharter.com Information tahititourisme.com.au

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NOTRE VOISIN FRANÇAIS New Caledonia is home to the world’s largest fringing reef. Needless to say, the best way to explore our South Pacific neighbour is by water, as Natasha Dragun discovers firsthand.

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here’s a moment, flying low over The Heart of Voh, when my pilot takes his hands off the control wheel to turn up the volume. We’ve been circling the world’s most photographed mangroves listening to Journey, and as the chorus to ‘Don’t Stop Believin’’ kicks in, the captain cranks the music and sings along. It’s an apt soundtrack to the experience, which sees me strapped in a tiny two-seat Pipistrel plane exploring the postcard-perfect west coast of New Caledonia, a patchwork of intensely hued blues and greens only broken by the white of waves rolling over the lenticular reef to the sea. A perfect natural heart-shape formed in emerald-green coastal swamps, Le Cœur de Voh is a spectacular sight, hemmed between coconut palms on land and water so clear I can see manta rays and turtles gliding between coral outcrops.

France in the Pacific A cluster of islands in the South Pacific, around 3300 kilometres east of Australia, New Caledonia is a heady mix of Melanesian and French culture.

Open-air stalls selling fresh coconuts sit beside graceful colonial mansions; warm baguettes with brie are just as likely to be on the menu as bougna (a combination of yam, banana, sweet potato, taro and chicken, all mixed with 94

fresh coconut milk, wrapped in banana leaves and cooked under hot stones in an earthen oven); pétanque is played under palm trees; and in supermarkets, champagne is as cheap as cava. It’s all enveloped by the largest lagoon and the second-longest double-barrier coral reef in the world. And needless to say, the marine biodiversity is astounding: some 9000 rare and endemic species thrive here in around 23,000 square kilometres of water. The lagoon is also home to major nesting sites for marine turtles and breeding areas for dugongs, humpback whales and seabirds.

Crossing Grande Terre, the largest of New Caledonia’s islands, reveals the similar diversity of the terrain; as we leave the sunken tree marshland of the west behind us, we pass through an interior of waterfalls and craggy mountains before arriving on Poindimié’s palm-lined stretch of sand on the central-east coast. The laidback coastal commune is home to dozens of Kanak tribes, the original Melanesian inhabitants. (Annexed to France in 1853, the islands became a French overseas territory in 1956, with Kanaks still accounting for around 40 per cent of the population.)

Aside from visiting small Kanak villages, the main lure of Poindimié is its extremely accessible reef. Strapping on flippers and a mask, I slip into the

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01 & 02 Diving with Masteka 2 reveals marine wonders © Bastien Preuss 03 Admiring Noumea’s lagoon from Château Royal Beach Resort & Spa 04 Masteka 2 seen from the top of Amédée © Natasha Dragun 05 Her interiors are all dark wood and white leather © MY Media 06 Masteka 2 features an on-deck Jacuzzi © Andrea Francolini

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“We drop anchor off Amédée and snorkel with green sea turtles and clown fish.” warm water and within minutes I am admiring reef sharks and turtles, giant clams and trevally, barracuda and eagle rays, drifting above vibrant coral that forms rifts, arches and canyons.

Exploration by superyacht The country’s capital, Noumea, is only 200 kilometres south, but the shallow lagoon here offers a totally different underwater experience. From my room at the palm-ringed Château Royal Beach Resort & Spa – known for its 300-square-metre Aquatonic pool with 12 hydro stations fitted with jets

to massage different muscles – I gaze over a windswept stretch of sand, popular among the world’s kitesurfing community. A short distance from shore is special marine reserve Amédée Island, along with Île aux Goélands, a tiny lagoon island that is closed to visitors from November to March, the breeding season of the roseate tern.

We cruise past the tiny slip of land aboard Masteka 2, a 37-metre superyacht based out of Sydney Harbour and the first foreign-flagged yacht to be granted a temporary charter licence to operate in New Caledonia’s waters from

April through December for a three-year period. The sleek yacht towers over other boats cruising the archipelago; unsurprising given the extensive facilities across her polished decks.

Having spent a year in dry-docks receiving a multi-million-dollar makeover, Masteka 2 sports a slick interior that is all dark wood and white leather, marble and mirrors. There’s space to sleep 12, and cabins come with ensuite bathrooms, including a windowside spa tub in the master bathroom.

In between meals – crab salad, Pacific oysters, prawns, freshly baked baguette, foie gras and platters of French cheese – there’s plenty of time for water sports around New Caledonia’s southern islets. We drop anchor off Amédée and snorkel with green sea turtles and clown fish before climbing the 230 stairs that lead to the top of the island’s whitewashed lighthouse. It’s an effort, but the views from the top are almost as impressive as those from the petite Pipistrel enjoyed earlier in my trip.

Back on Masteka 2, the crew of six, including captain Matt Stafford, are pulling the cover off the bridge’s Jacuzzi and setting up the water sports station; water skis and wakeboards, kayaks and a jet ski are all at our disposal, along with opportunities for diving and fishing.

The sound of a Kanak drumming band on Amédée drifts over to the yacht as Stafford’s team pours champagne and serves coconut macarons. It’s cultural whiplash, but of the finest kind.

Travel file

Accommodation complexechateauroyal.nc Getting there aircalin.com Experience Masteka 2 charter rates start from US$100,000 per week, excluding meals and beverages. Local taxes of 5.35 per cent also apply on the weekly charter fee. oceanalliance.com Information newcaledonia.travel/au

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destinationgreat britain

LAVISH LONDON First-time London visitor, Cara Wagstaff, is captivated by the city’s history, traditions and fine hotels.

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he elevator ascends 35 floors and before I can catch my breath, the steel doors open to reveal the minimalist sky lobby of Shangri-La Hotel at The Shard.

London is laid out in a patchwork beneath me; I can spot the Tower of London, Tower Bridge and HMS Belfast moored in the River Thames. Located on levels 34 through 52 of Renzo Piano’s The Shard, the Shangri-La is London’s first elevated hotel, and the view is mesmerising.

History lessons It’s my first glimpse of the city, but to really get a feel for its cosmopolitan and historic charms, I need to step down from my lofty perch. My first stop is the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Tower of London, where I’m amazed to find

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an entire village with accommodation, doctors and shops for the Yeomen Warders and their families who live within the 12th-century fortress and first royal palace of William the Conqueror.

I join one of the guided tours and we roam around the village to Traitors’ Gate, the infamous Bloody Tower (where it was thought the Princes in the Tower were murdered by their uncle, Richard, Duke of Gloucester), the torture dungeons and the Crown Jewels, which have been viewed by over 30 million people.

My head now swimming with tales of Tudors, Plantagenets and treason, I hop onto a river ferry and enjoy a rare burst of sunshine while cruising along River Thames. We pass The Shard, Palace of Westminster, London Eye and an ancient Egyptian obelisk

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01 The Shard is a sculptural addition to the London skyline 02 Westminster Suite at Shangri-La Hotel at The Shard, London 03 Afternoon tea at The Lanesborough

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04 The Lanesborough’s Michelin-starred Céleste dining room 05 Cocktails at Shangri-La’s Gong bar © Simon John Owen 06 Massage at COMO Metropolitan’s Shambhala Spa 07 The Shangri-La Suite © Simon John Owen

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popularly known as Cleopatra’s Needle.

I disembark at Westminster and wander around the streets trying to find the perfect angle of Big Ben that doesn’t include the scaffolding set in place for a three-year-plus restoration.

Returning to the Shangri-La, I meet a friend on level 52 for a cinematic ‘Director’s Cut’ cocktail at G ng bar. London twinkles beneath us, and the Tower Bridge – which I am becoming quite fond of – is looking particularly magnificent.

Mayfair musings St James’s Hotel & Club had its beginnings as a private club for diplomats in 1857, and it still has that intimate, exclusive feel. The boutique hotel, a member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World, is located on a quiet, almost hidden, cul-de-sac in Mayfair, blending in with its neighbours of Victorian townhouses; only the red carpet spilling down the front stairs marks it as anything but another chic private residence.

My deluxe room is elegant and features handmade silk wallpaper and a Muranoglass chandelier.

I make the most of the hotel’s prime location and set off on a stroll, windowshopping at Mayfair’s famous landmarks including Caviar House & Prunier, Bond Street’s exclusive boutiques and the timeless Burlington Arcade.

Tea for two In search of some relaxation, I check into COMO Metropolitan London. The scent of COMO’s trademark Shambhala Spa greets me in the lobby, refreshing and exotic, before a bubbly and professional receptionist shows me to my room, an

impressive park suite with sweeping views of Hyde Park.

When in London it feels only natural to do as the English do, and in England, they drink tea. I arrive at The Lanesborough, Oetker Collection’s London masterpiece hotel, for afternoon tea in the Michelin-starred Céleste dining room. The room glows with sunlight spilling through the domed glass roof and reflecting off the stunning chandeliers. I sip on Taittinger, relaxing into the comfortable chaise longue as waiters bring out dainty sandwiches (my favourite: the cream cheese and ginger on walnut bread). The towering tea stand follows, laden with delicate pastries, with a serving of freshly baked scones and clotted cream.

Before flying home I book into the Shambhala Spa for the signature COMO Shambhala massage. I sip on ginger tea sweetened with honey before succumbing to the long, slow strokes of the massage, sending me into a Zen-like state that lasts until my plane takes off.

For my first visit to London I’ve been charmed by its culture and history, seduced by its luxury hotels and mesmerised by its melting pot of cultures living side by side.

Travel file

Accommodation shangri-la.com/london comohotels.com/metropolitanlondon stjameshotelandclub.com Experience hrp.org.uk/tower-of-london oetkercollection.com Getting there Etihad flies to London via Abu Dhabi from Brisbane, Sydney, Melbourne and Perth. etihad.com

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ABU DHABI ON THE MOVE Whether in the desert chatting with Pashtun falconers or sipping 24-carat gold-laced coffee with Emiratis in a palace, it is the spirit of hospitality that indelibly makes its mark on Dan Avila during his visit to this land of extremes.

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recently spent a week exploring the cultural marvel that is Abu Dhabi and ‘extremes’ is no embellishment.

The opulence, the climate, the culture… There is nothing pedestrian or bland about Abu Dhabi.

“Extending hospitality to a stranger is an honour to Abu Dhabi people, integral to Arabian culture,” explains Laurence Klett, our host at Qasr Al Sarab Desert Resort by Anantara.

Driving deep into the world’s largest sand desert after arriving at night, there is a crimson hue as the sun prepares to rise and we see what looks to be an enormous sand storm directly in front of us. As our vehicle pushes through, visibility reduces to metres and heavy condensation forms around the car. This is not a sand storm, but a dense desert fog, common here in the winter months.

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After driving through the fog for two hours, it suddenly lifts to reveal the perfectly formed dunes washed pink by the sunrise and, like a mythical Arabian palace, Qasr Al Sarab Desert Resort.

Soaring with birds of prey These days in the desert are our time to experience some of the traditions of the Emirates. Before dawn, we drive out through the dunes to see falcons in training. We are served tea as we sit on carpets, still amazed at the beauty of the desert in the cool of the morning.

With the falcon on his forearm, the handler removes its hood, sending it off into the sky. A lure is swung around encouraging the falcon to engage. Suddenly, the bird skims past us at over 250 kilometres per hour, swooping for a strike.

On our last evening in the desert, we climb a large dune to take in an Arabian sunset. They say that travellers to Antarctica become obsessed with ice formations. Well, in the desert of Abu

Dhabi, it is the ever-changing moods of the dunes that capture the imagination.

The descending sun becomes filtered through sand haze rich in iron, causing it to glow red. The dunes look like pink whipped meringue before the sun disappears, turning them dark crimson. They are utterly mesmerising and a romantic setting for our Arabian barbecue with Bedouin-style tents.

Unrestrained imagination Abu Dhabi city is a different speed and mid-way through development that will make it one of the world’s greatest tourism hubs within two decades: the world’s biggest and best airport and cruise ship port, serviced by unending hotels, shopping and stunning beaches. This is an energy-fuelled, visionary boom.

The latest marvel is the billion-dollar Louvre Abu Dhabi, opened in November.

The museum resembles a floating dome, with a pattern designed to resemble rays of sun passing through a date palm.

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“The dunes look like pink whipped meringue before the sun disappears, turning them dark crimson.”

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01 Qasr Al Sarab Desert Resort emerges like a mythical Arabian Palace 02 Falcon in training 03 Abu Dhabi skyline 04 Traditional style at Qasr Al Sarab 05 & 06 The spectacular Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque.

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As impressive as examples of prosperity are, the cultural phenomenon of the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque left me blown away. Commissioned by its namesake and built with no concern for cost, the courtyard is an enormous mosaic of tile with gold and motherof-pearl adorning the structure.

Our final taste of Abu Dhabi was the The St. Regis Hotel’s Brunch in the Clouds. In the world’s highest suspended suite, connecting towers on the 48th and 49th floor, the brunch happens monthly. As luck would have it, ours was a special Cristal occasion.

Champagne flowed with the tops ceremoniously sabred, complementing the caviar and French black truffles being shaved on dishes at the table.

Abu Dhabi is a place on the move, and in a hurry. With a potent combination of unrestrained imagination, almost unlimited capacity, and immense pride in its culture and people, Abu Dhabi is and will remain a must-visit location for discerning travellers.

Travel file

Information October to April are Abu Dhabi winter months and the best time to visit. Days are warm and nights mild. Summer temperatures exceed 50 degrees Celsius with high humidity. visitabudhabi.ae Accommodation qasralsarab.anantara.com stregisabudhabi.com Getting there Abu Dhabi is the Etihad hub with regular flights direct from most Australian cities. etihad.com

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01 Huka Lodge overlooks Waikato River 02 Cosy riverside dining at Huka Lodge 03 Fine fare at The Kinloch Club 04 The Huka Lodge lounge 01

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RETREAT TO REFINEMENT Belinda Luksic indulges at two of New Zealand’s most luxurious lodges, discovering why they are as sought after for their sense of exclusivity, cuisine and exquisite service as they are for the adventures to be had in their incredible natural surrounds.

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here’s something grand about The Lodge at Kinloch Club.

From its sweeping entrance and expansive whitewashed stone interiors to its stunning framed vistas of Lake Taupo and prestigious Jack-Nicklaus signature golf course, New Zealand’s newest luxury lodge is nothing short of spectacular.

Designed by award-winning architect Andrew Patterson and perched above the fairway and green in Kinloch, a small hamlet near Taupo in Central North Island, the main building is a minimalist take on a contemporary Scottish castle.

Inside, Virginia Fisher (she of Huka Lodge and Dolphin Island fame) has created an opulent medieval mélange of gold and pewter velvet lounges, tactile throws, chainmail chandeliers, gilt-edged mirrors, huge fireplaces and slate floors. It’s gorgeous.

The subterranean spa, a hushed space of quiet elegance where I disappear for a traditional Maori massage, has therapeutic sports massages and signature treatments using Manuka honey from the lodge’s private estate.

For some outdoor action, golf fans

can spend their days on the green or take a private lesson with a PGA coach.

For those who hanker for something different, the lodge has heli-day trips to Treetops, its sister property in Rotorua.

Dinner in the lodge restaurant is an estate-to-plate four-course degustation menu – paired with excellent wines – with produce sourced from the owner’s 2000-hectare private estate. Breakfast is cooked to order – poached eggs on a bed of golden haloumi, kale and avocado for me – and served before magnificent picture-perfect views.

Scattered along the hillside facing Lake Taupo, a short stroll or buggy ride away, are 10 luxury one- and two-bedroom villas. Spacious and light, with seamless outdoor terraces, there is a cosy den and full kitchen with Nespresso machine and local goodies. In the evening, a fire burning in the lounge, I crank up the stereo and run a luxuriously deep bath.

Cruising Lake Taupo It’s grey and drizzling when we set out the next morning for a guided hike of the Kawakawa section of the Great Lake Trail. Starting in Kinloch, the relatively

easy 10-kilometre walk winds up through lush wetlands dense with ferns and lichen-licked trees to a promontory overlooking Lake Taupo. Storm clouds gather low in the sky and everything looks smeared in Vaseline.

This hole, or caldera, in Central North Island – left behind when a massive volcano erupted about 2000 years ago – is New Zealand’s largest freshwater lake.

It’s about the size of Singapore, with a rainbow trout population to match.

Kawakawa Bay, a near semi-circle of water on Lake Taupo with a narrow slash of grass and stony beach, is where we end up almost three hours later.

Simon Jolly from Chris Jolly Outdoors is waiting with a tender to take us out to the sleek MV Levante, a Riviera 4000 Offshore private charter.

On board, we practically have the lake to ourselves. A mother duck and her brood paddle past. Raindrops ping the darkening green waters, sending out perfect seismic ripples.

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Bay. On the return journey, racing storm clouds to shore, I mention a desire to catch a trout. Without a word, Jolly drops a fly in the water and hands me the rod. Within minutes, the line dips and I strike, pulling the rod up sharply and landing a gleaming fish.

Trout isn’t commercially fished in New Zealand so you won’t find it on any menus, but with enough notice and a fishing licence, most restaurants will happily cook your catch.

An oasis of calm

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05 The Jack Nicklaus-designed golf course at The Kinloch Club 06 Day trips by helicopter are available from The Kinloch Club 07 Luxurious suites with amazing views await at The Kinloch Club

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At Huka Lodge, my hire car and bags whisked away and a glass of champagne pressed into my hand, that’s exactly what happens. The fish disappears to the kitchen, and I retire to the lounge where a fire is crackling in the hearth.

New Zealand’s oldest lodge is an oasis of calm in a region famous for its boiling geothermal mud pools, geysers and steaming craters.

Sitting on the edge of the Waikato River, it has an impressive roll call of guests. The Queen has stayed here, as has Dick Cheney, designer Miuccia Prada and funnyman John Cleese.

The two-storey main lodge, with its mounted animal heads on the wall and snappy tartanmeets-safari decor, is a cosy affair. Close by is a hot tub and heated pool, croquet lawn and tennis court. The comfortable guest suites are immaculate and look down across manicured lawns to the river. Ducks waddle along the riverbank and water birds careen across the sky and land with an ungainly skid on its surface.

Heeding the lodge’s advice to keep the French doors shut, lest I invite a visit from a curious duck, I sink down into the chaise longue and watch the show. There is time enough for activity – in the morning, a horse ride at Poronui, the third of Taupo’s luxury lodges – but for now, I’m content to sit and do nothing.

As darkness unfurls, I make my way to the main lodge for dinner. Wine is poured and then my entrée arrives, a crown of pale pink trout served sashimi-style and garnished with flowers. It’s a meal fit for a queen.

Travel file

Accommodation hukalodge.co.nz thekinlochclub.com Getting there Air New Zealand has daily flights from Australian cities to Auckland with connecting flights to Taupo. It’s a 15-minute heli-transfer or limousine ride to Huka Lodge. The Lodge at Kinloch Club is a 26-minute drive. airnewzealand.com.au More information greatlaketaupo.com

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Ski-in, ski-out retail therapy

The winter wonderland of Hoshino Resorts TOMAMU, Hokkaido, gets a five-star boost this season with the opening of a new shopping precinct.

You don’t have to be tearing up the slopes to enjoy the mountains. This is something that Hoshino Resorts TOMAMU has always known, and the Japanese resort has long made a point of embracing everyone, from ruggedup bubs to grandparents, and the powder-hounds in between. Its frozen Ice Village, Mina-Mina Beach indoor wave pool and array of off-the-slopes adventures are now complemented by hotalu street, a place where everyone can gather, relax and refuel in style.

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hotalu street is the first ski-in, skiout shopping precinct in Japan, a chic haven of eateries and boutiques located right on the mountain. Its wooden promenade stretches 160 metres through the wintry landscape, offering a beacon of comfort for those on the mountains, while the undercover walkway from the resort’s two hotels means hotalu street is just as accessible for the non-skiers in your group.

Among the nine stores, savour a warming bowl of ramen at Afuri, or opt

for a hearty steak meal at Carmaro.

Sample Hokkaido’s local milk in the form of a Buttermilk Latte at tsukino Cafe & Bar, and one (or more) of the 15 ‘Coupe’ fruit-and-cream desserts from yukino.

Take them home or perch yourself near the fireplace on the deck outside to soak up the snow-dusted serenity.

When you’re ready to hit the slopes again, it’s simply a matter of clicking or strapping back in and gliding off to explore Tomamu’s 29 runs and, if you’re up for it, the Experts Only Powder Area. hotalu street takes its name from the fireflies that once gathered in the area, and Hoshino Resorts is taking small but significant steps to revive the region’s original landscape for winter and summer visitors alike. With its blend of calm, quiet beauty and mountainside convenience, hotalu street is already transforming Tomamu.

Travel file

Information snowtomamu.jp/en Accommodation Hoshino Resorts RISONARE Tomamu is the five-star, all-suite choice at the resort. Hoshino Resorts Tomamu The Tower offers four-star accommodation.

Getting there Hoshino Resorts TOMAMU is a 90-minute drive from Sapporo’s New Chitose Airport, a 90-minute flight from Tokyo.

Japan’s largest indoor wave pool, fondue at the ice restaurant and ski lessons with an enchanted character all in the snowy mountains of Hokkaido, Japan.

HOW WILL YOU TOMAMU?

@hoshinoresorts_tomamu_en

Hoshino Resorts Tomamu, Japan

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THE FLYING SPORTS CAR THAT’S SET TO TAKE OFF THIS YEAR Samson Motors will be the first flying car to take off when it begins delivery of the Switchblade this year. The three-wheeled, carbon-fibre flying car is named for the way its slim wings swing out of the body of the vehicle for flight mode. The Switchblade will be classified as an LEP1 Trike in Australia, and boasts an enclosed cabin and onroad speeds of up to 160 kilometres per hour. “Australia has such incredible beauty spread across her vast countryside! We have several people – from Victoria, New South Wales, Queensland and ACT – who have either pre-purchased or reserved their Switchblade and will be among the first in the world to be flying and driving one,” says Sam Bousfield, creator of the Switchblade. The Switchblade Kit is expected to cost US$120,000, or if you want something more exclusive, 200 Limited Editions will be available from US$500,000 with interiors you can customise. samsonmotorworks.com

Image © Samson Motors, Inc.

A supersonic future

Sydney to LA in under seven hours? That’s the dream of Boom Technology founder and CEO, Blake Scholl, a tech entrepreneur and pilot who is planning a renaissance of commercial supersonic flight in the early 2020s. Where Concorde was a “Cold War-era glory project” between two nations, Blake envisions Boom as a new norm of travel.

Tickets aboard the 55-seat airliners are expected to be comparable to business class.

As a start-up with the support of Virgin and Japan Airlines, Boom will take flight when the XB-1 Supersonic Demonstrator undergoes testing this year. boomsupersonic.com

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A&K’S NEW PRIVATE JET JOURNEYS Enjoy more time discovering with Abercrombie & Kent’s two new Wings Over The World journeys, marrying privately chartered flights, the Travelling Bell Boy luggage handling service and a resident tour director with spectacular A&K itineraries on the ground. During the new Spain and Morocco itinerary, you’re invited to visit Seville’s Royal Alcázar palace after hours before a night of glamping amid the Sahara’s Erg Chebbi dunes. The Wings Over East Africa itinerary comprises classic safari experiences, meeting the Maasai and exploring the region’s finest game reserves. A&K’s founder will also offer up his own private itinerary for 50 guests with 2018’s Around the World with Geoffrey Kent: An Inspiring Expedition, visiting the rainforests of Nicaragua, Georgia’s medieval heritage and Oman, where Kent served in the British Army, as well as some classic destinations with an A&K twist. abercrombiekent.com.au

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New lounge at Tahiti Faa’a

Your layover at Tahiti Faa’a Airport just got a little more luxe thanks to the unveiling of Air Tahiti Nui’s new lounge that offers its premium clients the chance to relax, use computer facilities, shower and unwind with a drink before embarking on the next leg of their journey. Complete with all the trimmings that make a Tahitian stay unforgettable, Air Tahiti Nui’s new lounge is your next preflight relaxation destination. airtahitinui.com.au

FIRST-CLASS SERVICE IN ETIHAD BUSINESS CLASS Flyer Dan Avila Class Business Class Route Perth to Abu Dhabi Code EY487 Aircraft Boeing 787-9 (two classes) Etihad doesn’t do things by halves, especially when it comes to service.

Flying long-haul from Perth to Abu Dhabi can be a daunting experience, but not when flying Etihad Business Class on the Dreamliner. My flight experience was designed to not feel like a flight at all; rather, it provides time to relax in my own business studio being wined, dined and entertained by some of the best trained airline staff in the world.

Although the Dreamliner is significantly smaller than the massive A380 which boasts The Residence, a hotel-styled apartment, the newest 787-9 is my favourite plane. From the subtle lighting that modulates throughout the flight, to the climate-controlled and humidified air that helps with jet lag, this whisperquiet aircraft is my first pick every time.

Stepping on the plane, I am greeted by name and shown to my seat, which is a private studio that feels like a compact luxury hotel. My food and beverage (F&B) manager stops by to get to know me and my preferences and together, we plan my flight: when I would like to dine, relax and then sleep, and which wines I would like with my meals. After attempting a little work in my studio, made possible with in-seat power and ample desk

and storage space in all directions, my F&B manager converts my seat to a bed ensuring a wonderful sleep before arrival.

The seat The seats are controlled

with one touch on an intuitive LED screen and, with in-built massager and complete privacy in a direct aisle-access studio, it feels more like first class.

The dining A cosmopolitan menu is

inspired by Michelin-starred restaurants and paired to an international wine list.

A dedicated F&B manager plans the selection and timing of service with each guest with the Dine Anytime offering.

The entertainment It includes noisecancelling headphones and a new stateof-the-art entertainment system with a handheld controller featuring its own screen in addition to the main TV screen.

The glam factor Flying Etihad Business

to Abu Dhabi is a streamlined experience from end to end. I enjoy priority checkin, and the flight experience is tailored to the guest. In the two-class Dreamliner, this all feels like a first-class experience.

The checklist

Pyjamas: No Designer Amenities: Scaramouche + Fandango skincare and comfort kit Limousine transfers: Yes, on selected routes etihad.com

Lufthansa goes five-star

Lufthansa has become the first airline in Europe to be awarded five stars by airline reviewer Skytrax, making it the 10th in the world to receive the coveted rating. Lufthansa’s commitment to offering travellers true five-star service is evident in its recent cabin redesigns, improvement of digital services and the opening of multiple new luxury lounges. lufthansa.com

Jet to the Maldives in style

You can now fly from Doha to the Maldives in a state-of-the-art A350, courtesy of Qatar. The airline recently became the first in the world to offer direct flights to the popular holiday destination on an aircraft of this standard, which features 36 fully reclinable seats in business class, and high-definition touch screens for unparalleled passenger viewing. qatarairways.com

It’s in the amenities

Singapore Airlines has unveiled a glossy range of cabin improvements to be offered on board its Airbus A380 fleet. The six Singapore Airlines Suites, located on the upper deck, have been reimagined in fine Poltrona Frau leather and mood lighting. A fullsized wardrobe, handbag stowage and leather-lined amenity boxes ensure ample storage. For couples travelling together, the beds in the first two suites can even be transformed into a double bed. singaporeair.com signatureluxurytravel.com.au

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HILTON + L’ESCAPADE ISLAND RESORT Your 7-night Package includes: AIR + TRANSFEER + HOTEL + MORE • 4 nights in a Deluxe One Bedroom Apartment with Lagoon View at Hilton Noumea • 3 nights in a Beach Bungalow at L’Escapade Island Resort • Buffet breakfast daily at L’Escapade Island Resort

NEW CALEDONIA

FROM

VOYAGES

$1,940 PP*

Book Before: 31 March 2018 Travel Dates: 15 January 2018 until 31 August 2018

NEW CALEDONIA PACKAGES ON SALE Call us now 1300

660 442 Visit www.ncvoyages.com.au Email info@ncvoyages.com.au

$2,390 per person

LE MERIDIEN ILE DES PINS & LE MERIDIEN NOUMEA COMBO Your 7-night Package includes: AIR + TRANSFEER + HOTEL + MORE • 4 nights in Superior Lagoon View Room at Le Méridien Noumea 5* • 3 nights in Deluxe Pool View Room at Le Méridien Ile des Pins 5* • All-you-can-eat buffet breakfast daily at Le Méridien Ile des Pins FROM

$2,190 PP*

Book Before: 31 March 2018 Travel Dates: 15 January 2018 until 31 August 2018

VALUED AT

$2,590 per person

CHATEAU ROYAL BEACH RESORT & SPA, NOUMEA Your 5-night Package includes: AIR + TRANSFER + HOTEL + MORE • 5 nights in a 1 Bedroom Superior Suite • Buffet breakfast daily FROM

*Package price is subject to availability at the time of booking. All package prices are in Australian Dollars.

Holiday package price is per person, includes services as detailed in the package and is based on 2 people travelling together. Single supplement surcharges apply. Air surcharges apply during Australian school holidays.

VALUED AT

$1,790 PP*

Book Before: 31 March 2018 Travel Dates: 15 January 2018 until 31 August 2018

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Image: Jennifer Lawrence for Dior Cruise 2018

SIGNATURE STYLE A tribute to Dior’s 70 years of haute couture A new season of excluive coats shot on Paris’ Left Bank Chanel’s high jewellery collection Louis Moinet: the creator of the world’s first Chronograph

A DATE WITH DIOR Looking back at Dior’s 70 years of fashion, Amy Campbell explores the nuances that make the atelier so synonymous with Parisian haute couture.

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hisper the word ‘Dior’ and you’ll conjure images of eloquently cinched waists, full-bodied skirts, blazers tailored with millimetre precision and, of course, the iconic Bar Suit. Founded

by Christian Dior in late 1946, the French fashion house has pioneered a long list of symbolic silhouettes, many of which inspire and influence the way women dress today.

It comes as no surprise, then, that two major retrospectives came out in 2017: The House of Dior: Seventy Years of Haute Couture at the National Gallery of Victoria, and Christian Dior, Couturier Du Rêve at Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris.

With 70 years under its designer belt, Christian Dior is now led by its first female creative director, Maria Grazia Chiuri.

But who exactly is Christian Dior? With a name so recognisable, it’s remarkable to note that Monsieur Dior was at the helm of his namesake for only 10 years.

Born in the seaside town of Granville, France, in 1905, Dior was the second of five children. He expressed an interest in the arts from an early age, and was often seen peddling his illustrations on the roadside of his childhood town. His father – a successful fertiliser manufacturer –

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hoped Dior would pursue a career in politics. But his son’s creative vein couldn’t be suppressed, and Dior chose to follow his artistic passions.

His journey to fashion wasn’t short and narrow, however. From opening a gallery in Paris to serving in the French army, Dior overcame adversity – including the tragic death of his parents – before landing his first job as a designer with couturier Robert Piguet in 1938.

Honing his skills under the leadership of Piguet and later Lucien Lelong, it wasn’t until December 1946 that Dior opened the doors to his very own

atelier. Amid post-war ambiguity, his progressive approach to haute couture garnered praise from the fashion industry. He adorned his models – known then as ‘mannequins’ – in unprecedented shapes and fabrics, like padded shoulders, severely defined waists and necklines that plunged to dramatic effect. His designs were revered for their liberating creativity, and became known as the New Look.

It would be impossible to discuss Christian Dior without addressing his passion for fragrance. He was known for filling his Avenue Montaigne atelier with

01 1947’s Bar Suit is a Dior classic © Association Willy Maywald/ADAGP. Licensed by Viscopy, 2017 02 & 03 Actor and muse, Jennifer Lawrence, is the face of the Dior Cruise 2018 campaign, as shot by Brigitte Lacombe 04 John Galliano for Christian Dior, Shéhérazade ensemble, Haute Couture, Spring-Summer 1998.

Paris, Dior Héritage © Les Arts Décoratifs / Nicholas Alan Cope 05 Installation view of The House of Dior: Seventy Years of Haute Couture at NGV International, 27 August – 7 November 2017, photo © Sean Fennessy

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director to date. After Bohan came the Italian Gianfranco Ferré, who evolved Dior’s quintessential New Look, employing theatrical ornamentation and sumptuous fabrics to merge the traditional with the present.

Under the leadership of John Galliano, Dior became somewhat experimental.

From 1997 to 2012, his collections – which were characterised by their vivacious colour and oriental references – marked what some refer to as an exotic deviation from Dior’s founding tenets. As a result, Raf Simons’ sleek yet sculptural take on the Dior evening gown earned the Belgian designer widespread praise when he joined the atelier in 2012.

A feminist frontier

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bouquets of fresh flowers. The bucolic has remained a recurring motif within the Dior DNA and every designer has engaged with the reference in their own unique way.

A new era

It felt fitting, then, when Maria Grazia Chiuri – previously of Valentino – became the first woman to lead Dior in 2016. Her feminist agenda comes as a modern manifestation of Christian Dior’s original spirit, which – driven by a quest to balance function with flattery – always placed the female at the forefront of design. In particular, her Cruise 2018 collection is a testament to Dior’s legacy. The collection features prairie dresses in bold prints alongside tailoring in tonal hues, and includes a notable refresh of Dior’s original Bar Suit: the perfect offering for a modern globetrotting muse. dior.com ngv.vic.gov.au lesartsdecoratifs.fr/en

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Passing away at the premature age of 52, in 1957 Dior’s position was promptly succeeded by his protégé, 21-year-old Yves Saint Laurent. He injected the house with an air of youth and visceral extravagance. In particular, his 1960 Beat collection – which comprised a particularly shocking leather jacket lined with mink fur – marked a more risqué era for the house.

It was fellow French designer Marc Bohan who reunited Dior with its deceptively classic direction in 1960.

He remained at the helm until 1989, the longest tenure of any Dior artistic 119

RIVE GAUCHE CHIC Make a Parisian statement in the season’s most exquisite coats, worn with a dash of Left Bank flair.

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flash of red drifting past the Panthéon. An embroidered cat among flowers beneath a castiron bridge. Silk and lace beside Ladurée’s coveted macarons, and the embrace of fur floating

by Café de Flore, the erstwhile gathering place of artists and philosophers. The style of the Left Bank is as eclectic as its identity, the home of students and intellectuals, the Eiffel Tower and the Luxembourg Gardens. Follow the example of the Parisians and choose a coat with a classic cut, intricate detail and irrepressible panache for your strolls through Saint-Germain-des-Prés.

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Photography file

Photography Bela Raba belaraba.com Styling Stephan Kallaus stephankallaus.com Hair and makeup Michael Salmen, using MAC Cosmetics and Oribe michaelsalmen.com Post-production Florian Wagner bavarianretouch.de Model Manon Leloup modelwerk.de Photographer’s assistant Talos Buccelati

01 There’s no such thing as too much red. Make a tonal impact in Givenchy Fall/Winter 02 Add a touch of drama with an oversized collar from Salvatore Ferragamo Fall/Winter 03 Roses and cats bring Dolce & Gabbana’s signature whimsy to life in Fall/Winter 04 Tulle and lace give this plum Elie Saab Fall/Winter look a darkly romantic edge

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Endless Knot necklace in 18K white gold set with diamonds.

SAIL AWAY Chanel’s latest high-jewellery collection reimagines nautical themes in diamonds, sapphires and white gold.

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he French Riviera is as much a fantasy as a destination. It exists as a lifestyle, a feeling of relaxed glamour and ease, and simple pleasures that are the pinnacle of sophistication. In this aspect, the Côte d’Azur has hardly changed since Gabrielle Chanel cruised its waters aboard the black-hulled yacht of Hugh Grosvenor, the second Duke of Westminster, and one of the most significant men in her life.

While a crew of 40 kept Flying Cloud running, Coco and Bendor feasted with friends on the white deck, dined under the sun on secluded beaches. As she was wont to say, “Luxury is a necessity that starts where necessity stops.”

In naming its latest collection after the yacht, Chanel evokes Mademoiselle’s love of the Mediterranean. Her signature style heralded liberation, with wide-

Azurean Braid bracelet in 18K white gold set with sapphires and diamonds.

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Yachting Day ring in 18K white gold set with sapphires and diamonds.

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Turquoise Waters earrings in 18K white gold set with sapphires and diamonds.

Turquoise Waters ring in 18K white gold set with sapphires and diamonds.

legged trousers and relaxed Bretonstriped tops the antidote to female restriction. Pearls were the perfect accessory, which she believed were best paired with sun-kissed skin.

The nautical colour palette of the Flying Cloud collection comes alive with gold, diamonds and sapphires, divided into two chapters. In the first, maritime motifs are elevated from their humble backgrounds to objects of beauty. In the Precious Float series, miniature life buoys are rendered in white gold and gold-flecked lapis lazuli, trailed by bubbles of pearls. Ropes become gold and diamonds in Sparkling Lines. Anchors are transformed from necessities to aesthetic delights with pearls and sapphires in the Yachting Day line. Sailor Tattoo takes typical

motifs of sails, compasses, stars and anchors and amplifies them with diamonds and coloured gems; an oversized cuff in titanium is a highlight.

The second chapter looks to the ideal cruise wardrobe with a naval officer’s Golden Braid wrought in gold and diamonds, the buttons of a Sailor Suit jauntily mixed and matched on a bracelet and necklace, and a Breton top reimagined as Sapphire Stripes.

The woven designs of Azurean Braid are dedicated to sunlight reflecting off a turquoise sea, while the intricate looped ropes of Endless Knot pay homage to the Mediterranean breeze in 18-carat white gold, diamonds and pearls. With a theme as well-trodden as nautical, Chanel’s playful approach keeps the collection feeling as fresh and light as the saltwater air. chanel.com

Sapphire Stripes bracelet in 18K white gold set with sapphires and diamonds.

Turquoise Waters ring in 18K white gold set with a pear-cut diamond.

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Louis Moinet

FATHER OF THE CHRONOGRAPH It may have taken 200 years, but the creator of the world’s first chronograph is finally receiving the recognition he deserves, writes Madeline Hoskin.

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arely does a timepiece surface that alters the annals of history.

However, not every timepiece is Louis Moinet’s fabled Compteur de Tierces.

Dating back to 1816, the singlefunction pocket watch hums at 30 Hertz – a miraculous feat considering most modern watches are four Hertz.

Its solo hand completes a full revolution every second, with a start-stop pusher at 12 o’clock allowing for impeccably precise timekeeping. It is now widely believed to be the first clock with a zero-reset function, the first highfrequency mechanical movement, and the world’s first-ever chronograph.

Until it was acquired in a Christie’s auction in Geneva, 2012, there had been little tangible proof of the Compteur’s existence, merely written records by Moinet that had fallen into obscurity over subsequent centuries. As luck would have it, the highest bidder was Jean-Marie Schaller, current CEO of Les Ateliers Louis Moinet, and a man on a mission to gain recognition for Moinet’s essential contributions to watchmaking. Admittedly, not even he realised the significance of his acquisition at the time.

Prior to this auction, credit for what is arguably the most sought-after complication of all time had gone to Nicolas Mathieu Rieussec, who was

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commissioned by King Louis XVIII in 1821 to develop a timer that could record the lengths of his beloved horse races.

Moinet’s design had higher aspirations.

The French-born horologist from Bourges was also an artist with an avid love of astronomy, and though he created clocks for esteemed nobility, from Napoleon Bonaparte to King George IV, his pieces were first and foremost labours of love and intellectual exploration. The Compteur de Tierces was intended as an instrument for astronomical observation, the exorbitant 30-Hertz speed allowing Moinet to measure the distance between crosshairs in a telescope.

It wasn’t until 2015 that the efforts of Ateliers Moinet saw this historic design take its rightful place in the Guinness World Records. The timing is apt – albeit belated – considering last year marked 200 years since its creation.

The Atelier celebrated this bicentenary with the release of three strictly limited chronographs. Most notable is the hand-engraved Memoris Red Eclipse, the brand’s new anthology piece.

Rounding off a momentous year, the Atelier also opened its first dedicated boutique in Russia, harking true to its mission to “restore Louis Moinet to his rightful place at the top of the watchmaking pantheon”. louismoinet.com

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Image: European cheese on display at Bon Fromage

SIGNATURE GOURMET Gourmet icons of French fare How to enjoy cheese like the French Champagne buying guide

L’ART DE VIVRE It’s the humble ingredients that elevate a cuisine. Amelia Hungerford pays homage to the simple things that have become gourmet icons of France.

Le pain

Le vin

Le beurre

A baguette is as stereotypically French as berets and Breton-striped shirts.

While debates continue to rage about whether the nation’s bread is empirically better than its overseas counterparts, what we certainly can agree on is that French bread culture is rich, complex, ingrained in the national identity and, for many of us on the other side of the fence, enviable. ‘Buying a baguette from the local boulangerie’ is high on the wishlist of countless visitors, whether it’s their first trip or their 100th.

Bread as a product is ephemeral, lasting a few days at best, but that doesn’t mean it is free of the protections that surround the likes of wine and cheese. In 1993, France introduced a law known as le décret pain that outlines what, how and where bread is made.

To bear the name tradition, the dough may only contain four ingredients (wheat flour, water, salt and yeast and/or a starter) and no additives, and must not have been frozen at any point in its creation. The result is usually sold by an establishment bearing the blue-and-yellow mark of an artisan baker, which guarantees that the bread was made on the premises.

There are no rules that officially govern the buying and eating of bread, but there is definitely an etiquette. If you’re after a baguette, you can ask for it to be bien cuite (well cooked) or pas trop cuite (not too cooked). Once you have your prize, make like the locals and eat le quignon on your way home; the only time you’ll see a French person eating on the street is after twisting and snapping off this irresistible ‘heel’.

Champagne may be associated with the high life, but it is wine that epitomises good living à la française. A glass, a bottle or two, over dinner with friends and family is never an indulgence; it is de rigueur. It isn’t just drinking a first-growth Burgundy or an exceptional Bordeaux vintage that is part of the ritual; it is savouring it, discussing it.

With more than 300 French wines allowed to use the AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) agricultural designation of protection and provenance on their label, it’s clear that, to the French, the production of wine is a higher art form worthy of recognition. The concept of the AOC is rooted in terroir, the idea that soil and the site of a vine is unique and that this environment imparts certain qualities to the grapes.

As with salt, the French take butter seriously (we’ll just ignore the fact that margarine was invented for Napoleon III’s army) and there are butters from three regions that bear AOP (Appellation d’Origine Protégée) status.

Le beurre Échiré, in the Deux-Sèvres département, has been making butter in wooden churns since 1894. Frequently named the best butter in the world, Échiré is favoured by the greatest chefs for its malleable, crumble-free texture that allows for exceptional pastries.

Beurre d’Isigny from Normandy is known for its buttercup-yellow hue resulting from its ‘grand cru’ milk and maturation process.

Le sel It seems like such a small thing, but even salt has a big reputation in France. Fleur de sel harvested by hand in Guérande on the Atlantic coast has been hailed by chefs and gourmands as the caviar of salt. Its name, translating as ‘flower of salt’, comes from the snowflake-like crystals that are so delicate only women were permitted to harvest them in the past. Thanks to the presence of other minerals, fleur de sel tastes ‘saltier’ than usual. Its moisture content is high, too, meaning its delicacy will all but dissolve when cooked, but will linger longer on the palate when used as a finishing salt, and brings out the sweetness in chocolate and caramel.

La moutarde Whether you prefer silky-smooth Dijon or nutty wholegrain, mustard is the most beloved of French condiments.

Its production is particularly tied to the region of Burgundy where you’ll still find Moutarderie Edmond Fallot producing classic and flavoured varieties, just as it has since 1840. The familyowned mill is the last independent moutarderie in Burgundy, while in Beaune, visit the factory and stock up on your favourite flavoured mustards.

Pommery is the last remaining creator of the extra-coarse moutarde de Meaux. The current company revived the Pommery name and mustard tradition in 1949, and is now known for its stoneware crock and wax seal packaging, as well as its tart flavour. Break out the black-andgold Moutarde Royale, infused with cognac, for festive occasions.

L’ART DE VIVRE It’s the humble ingredients that elevate a cuisine. Amelia Hungerford pays homage to the simple things that have become gourmet icons of France.

Le pain

Le vin

Le beurre

A baguette is as stereotypically French as berets and Breton-striped shirts.

While debates continue to rage about whether the nation’s bread is empirically better than its overseas counterparts, what we certainly can agree on is that French bread culture is rich, complex, ingrained in the national identity and, for many of us on the other side of the fence, enviable. ‘Buying a baguette from the local boulangerie’ is high on the wishlist of countless visitors, whether it’s their first trip or their 100th.

Bread as a product is ephemeral, lasting a few days at best, but that doesn’t mean it is free of the protections that surround the likes of wine and cheese. In 1993, France introduced a law known as le décret pain that outlines what, how and where bread is made.

To bear the name tradition, the dough may only contain four ingredients (wheat flour, water, salt and yeast and/or a starter) and no additives, and must not have been frozen at any point in its creation. The result is usually sold by an establishment bearing the blue-and-yellow mark of an artisan baker, which guarantees that the bread was made on the premises.

There are no rules that officially govern the buying and eating of bread, but there is definitely an etiquette. If you’re after a baguette, you can ask for it to be bien cuite (well cooked) or pas trop cuite (not too cooked). Once you have your prize, make like the locals and eat le quignon on your way home; the only time you’ll see a French person eating on the street is after twisting and snapping off this irresistible ‘heel’.

Champagne may be associated with the high life, but it is wine that epitomises good living à la française. A glass, a bottle or two, over dinner with friends and family is never an indulgence; it is de rigueur. It isn’t just drinking a first-growth Burgundy or an exceptional Bordeaux vintage that is part of the ritual; it is savouring it, discussing it.

With more than 300 French wines allowed to use the AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) agricultural designation of protection and provenance on their label, it’s clear that, to the French, the production of wine is a higher art form worthy of recognition. The concept of the AOC is rooted in terroir, the idea that soil and the site of a vine is unique and that this environment imparts certain qualities to the grapes.

As with salt, the French take butter seriously (we’ll just ignore the fact that margarine was invented for Napoleon III’s army) and there are butters from three regions that bear AOP (Appellation d’Origine Protégée) status.

Le beurre Échiré, in the Deux-Sèvres département, has been making butter in wooden churns since 1894. Frequently named the best butter in the world, Échiré is favoured by the greatest chefs for its malleable, crumble-free texture that allows for exceptional pastries.

Beurre d’Isigny from Normandy is known for its buttercup-yellow hue resulting from its ‘grand cru’ milk and maturation process.

Le sel It seems like such a small thing, but even salt has a big reputation in France. Fleur de sel harvested by hand in Guérande on the Atlantic coast has been hailed by chefs and gourmands as the caviar of salt. Its name, translating as ‘flower of salt’, comes from the snowflake-like crystals that are so delicate only women were permitted to harvest them in the past. Thanks to the presence of other minerals, fleur de sel tastes ‘saltier’ than usual. Its moisture content is high, too, meaning its delicacy will all but dissolve when cooked, but will linger longer on the palate when used as a finishing salt, and brings out the sweetness in chocolate and caramel.

La moutarde Whether you prefer silky-smooth Dijon or nutty wholegrain, mustard is the most beloved of French condiments.

Its production is particularly tied to the region of Burgundy where you’ll still find Moutarderie Edmond Fallot producing classic and flavoured varieties, just as it has since 1840. The familyowned mill is the last independent moutarderie in Burgundy, while in Beaune, visit the factory and stock up on your favourite flavoured mustards.

Pommery is the last remaining creator of the extra-coarse moutarde de Meaux. The current company revived the Pommery name and mustard tradition in 1949, and is now known for its stoneware crock and wax seal packaging, as well as its tart flavour. Break out the black-andgold Moutarde Royale, infused with cognac, for festive occasions.

How to...

ENJOY CHEESE LIKE THE FRENCH Elevate your cheese consumption into an art form with our guide.

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aguette, wine and cheese… it’s the very picture of l’art de vivre, simultaneously simple and luxurious. Australians have embraced fromage, but it seems many of us are just scratching the surface of the cheesy possibilities.

Each cheese has its own characteristics, from A Casinca (a soft washed-rind goat’s cheese from Corsica) to Yolo (a pressed cow’s milk cheese from the Aquitaine region).

Those that are unique to a region may be further designated by the AOC/ AOP (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée/ Protegée) certification, a system regulating geographical origins, method and quality. The first cheese to bear the label was Roquefort in 1925, although its origins date back to the 15th century when the production of this cave-aged blue was first controlled by parliamentary decree. There are now more than 40 varieties that bear an AOP/AOC designation, including Beaufort, Bleu d’Auvergne, Brie de Meaux and de Melun, Camembert de Normandie and Livarot.

Cheeses are also divided by their type – cow’s milk, goat’s, sheep’s – and then into eight families, according to the French dairy organisation, CNIEL: • Fresh cheeses, such as the ricottalike Brocciu from Corsica • Soft cheeses with a blooming rind, its most famous members including Brie and Camembert • Soft cheeses with a washed rind, as in Pont l’Évêque and Mont d’Or

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• Uncooked pressed cheeses, including Reblochon and Cantal • Cooked pressed cheeses, featuring Comté and Emmental • Blue-veined cheeses are specialties of the mountains and include Fourme d’Ambert and Roquefort • Goat’s cheese, such as Chevrotin and Chabichou du Poitou • Processed cheeses may be spreadable, mixed with nuts or miniaturised.

Which cheese?

All of this adds up to a staggering number of cheeses, with some modern estimates putting the number close to 1000. How can you possibly choose?

The only way is to taste, taste, taste.

French cheese ambassador, Xavier Thuret, visited Australia in October to share his passion and expertise

Where to buy?

In Sydney:

Ocello Formaggi, Surry Hills ocello.com.au The Stinking Bishops, Newtown thestinkingbishops.com Fourth Village Providore, Mosman and Waterloo fourthvillage.com.au Paesanella Food Emporium, Marrickville paesanella.com.au Salt Meats Cheese, Alexandria saltmeatscheese.com.au

In Melbourne: Milk the Cow, St Kilda and Carlton milkthecow.com.au Maker & Monger, Prahran Market makerandmonger.com.au Harper & Blohm, Essendon harperandblohm.com

with Sydneysiders at Bon Fromage, a free festival sponsored by the EU and CNIEL. This annual event is an intense immersion into the world of European dairy delights, but you can enjoy the benefits in a more intimate setting at your local cheesemonger.

Start with what you know you like and ask for recommendations from there.

Building the board Whether you choose to serve it as a predinner platter or a course before dessert in the French fashion, a cheese board is an easy way to make an impression.

Start by selecting an odd number of cheeses. Why odd? “It’s the same as the number of flowers that you bring for a woman you love,” Thuret explains with Gallic mysticism. Of course.

You can keep it simple with one spectacular artisanal selection. If opting for three, look for different types of milk and families, and a mix of the familiar and unfamiliar. Thuret suggests Comté, Camembert de Normandie and Burgundy’s Époisses as a good starting trio. If expanding to five, add in something like Bleu d’Auvergne and the triple-cream Délice de Bourgogne.

Estimate 50 grams per person per cheese and arrange them from the mildest to the strongest. Take your cheese out of the fridge at least one hour before serving so that it can come to room temperature.

“Pairing is sharing” When it comes to accompaniments, you’ll find endless advice on what to serve and rules on “French” dos and don’ts. Thuret believes personal taste is the only thing that matters when pursuing pleasure. Indeed, some of his own suggestions are surprising. Try combining a Brie from his hometown, Meaux, with wholegrain mustard. For Comté, add apricot jam and pepper.

And for the ultimate cheese toastie, combine Bleu d’Auvergne with chestnut spread (crème de marrons).

Serve your cheese with bread and lashings of salty butter. Bon appétit!

Image: European cheese on display at Bon Fromage

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TOP TIPS FOR BUYING CHAMPAGNE Tyson Stelzer shares everything you need to know when investing in a bottle of bubbly.

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hampagne is a fast-moving target, recording record global turnover in recent years not always in step with the region’s best buys. For all of its recordsmashing, cork-popping success, there is still much to embrace in the diversity of styles, producers and prices that Champagne has to offer.

Here are my top 10 tips for making the most of the region’s finest this year.

Buy vintage It’s a travesty that the smallest-selling champagne category remains the best value. Excluding prestige and rosé, vintage champagne represents a minuscule 1.6 per cent of champagne bottles exported. And yet this same category represents an enormous 62 per cent of my best of lists this year!

Buy 2008 2008 is the most refined and longlived vintage in many decades, and it’s on the shelves right now.

Buy NVs based on 2012 2012 is the predominant non-vintage base in the market this year, and it’s the best since 2008. Where possible, I’ve explained throughout The Champagne Guide 2018-2019 how to decode bottling codes to ascertain base vintages.

Buy rosé Champagne rosé continues its flamboyant growth curve, up 8.6 134

per cent in 2016, now representing more than 10 per cent of champagne exports. And yet its performance in the glass far outranks its sales success, representing a huge 23 per cent of my best of lists this year.

Buy prestige This year I discovered an unusually small number of high-scoring cuvées in $, $$ and $$$ [under-AU$60, $60–$100 and $81–$100] price brackets, making an investment in prestige cuvées all the more rewarding. I have lined up 56 astonishing champagnes at $$$$ and $$$$$ [AU$101–200 and over$300] prices in my ‘Best of ’ list.

Prestige champagne remains a tiny category, and although exports grew by 4.6 per cent in 2016, they still coincidentally represent just 4.6 per cent of all champagnes sold.

Spend up Champagne remains the bargain of the luxury wine world, with prestige champagne ranking as the most affordable and most accessible of all flagship global benchmark wine styles.

When was the last time you found a mature First Growth Bordeaux or Grand Cru Burgundy for the same price as Krug Grand Cuvée? In 1904, Moët & Chandon Carte Bleue sold for the same price as Château Latour, Château Margaux and Château Haut-Brion. A 30-year-old Château Lafite was just double the price of a bottle of Louis Roederer, Mumm

This is an edited extract from The Champagne Guide 2018-2019 by Tyson Stelzer, published by Hardie Grant Books, RRP $49.99, and is available in stores nationally.

Cordon Rouge or Veuve Clicquot.

Today, these Bordeaux wines are 20 times the price. Champagne does not rank even once among the top 20 most expensive wines in the world.

And yet Champagne pays its growers the highest grape price in the world of €6.20 per kilogram, more than 60 per cent up on the price 15 years ago. It takes 1.2 kilograms of grapes to make a bottle of wine, not to mention a production process more complex and more labour-intensive than any other in the wine world.

Besides fortified, champagne is the only wine style matured to its prime prior to release. Champagne currently has 1.43 billion bottles stockpiled in waiting, more than 4.5 years of supply.

When I recently hosted an intimate group of champagne-lovers for a special week of visits in the region, they arrived

sceptical about the high price of champagne and left astounded by its value, exclaiming that they now knew just what went into its production.

Champagne is the envy of the wine world, the universal and inimitable symbol of celebration. It accounts for 20 per cent of French wine sales, from just four per cent of the country’s vineyards.

Can champagne maintain its bargain prices? It can, and it will, until demand hits a record high in the coming years.

Since a record of 338.8 million bottles in 2007, champagne achieved a postGFC sales record of 312.5 million in 2015, softening to 306 million in 2016.

Average ex-cellar bottle prices have risen by just 14 per cent over the past nine years, making €4.7 billion in sales in both 2015 and 2016 all-time records for global champagne turnover.

TYSON’S BEST CHAMPAGNES OF THE YEAR 100 points

Krug Clos du Mesnil Blanc de Blancs Brut 2002

99 points

$$$$$

Billecart-Salmon Cuvée Nicholas François Billecart 2002

$$$$

Deutz Amour de Deutz Rosé Millésime Brut 2008

$$$$

Duval-Leroy Femme de Champagne 1996

$$$$$

Krug Vintage 2002

$$$$$

Pierre Péters Cuvée Spéciale Blanc de Blancs les Chétillons 2008 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs 2008

$$$$ $$$$$

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Image: Château du Grand-Lucé © Eric Piasecki

S I G N AT U R E LIVING The rebirth of an abandoned estate in the Loire Valley, France

GRANDEUR RESTORED An 18th-century château in the Loire Valley becomes a designer’s passion project, proving that neoclassical style is far from passé, writes Madeline Hoskin.

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t’s the romanticised dream held by many a Francophile: abandoning a humdrum nine-to-five in pursuit of a dilapidated estate in the French countryside.

The goal: to transform it into an idyllic home.

However, when award-winning LA-based designer Timothy Corrigan decided that his time had come for a Gallic sojourn, he not only made this dream a reality, but he also created an inimitable guesthouse that transports you into a world of bygone style and comfort.

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The odds were strongly in his favour when he found his vision’s foundation: the stunning Château du GrandLucé in the Loire Valley, two hours southwest of Paris.

Designed by Mathieu de Bayeux, the building was first completed in 1764 as a summer palace for Jacques Pineau de Viennay, Baron de Lucé. It was here in the château’s prime that the Baron entertained a string of luminaries and social elites, from Voltaire to Rousseau, and to this day the mansion is lauded as one of the finest examples of neoclassical architecture in France.

Built from sandstone and tuffeau – the region’s creamy white limestone – the austere façade is splendid in its simplicity, framed by immaculate lawns and topiary. Interiors boast high ceilings, elegant drapes, and swathes of natural light. Walking the grounds you would almost expect to see Jane Austen’s Mr Darcy materialise before you.

A NEW CHAPTER BEGINS A sprawling 4180-square-metre property like this does not stay pristine without constant upkeep, and by 2003 the building had grown derelict. The grandiose abode had barely been touched since World War II, when it was used as a hospital for British soldiers and a safe house for museum artefacts. Paint peeled from the walls. Electricity had never been connected.

Water closets lacked the modern joy of plumbing

04 01 Château du Grand-Lucé’s neoclassical façade 02 The estate’s unlikely pool 03 Designer Timothy Corrigan has added his own flair 04 Pink was a bold choice for the dining room 05 Artefacts tell the story of the château 06 Each guest room features a unique design 07 Interiors are refined but comfortable 08 Enjoying the Loire setting. All images © Eric Piasecki and Megan Witt Photography

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It was in this condition that the French government decided to sell the estate, and Corrigan was more than up for the challenge.

ADDING CHARACTER Renovating historic landmarks in France is an arduous process. Regulations dictate what materials can be used, what gardens must look like… Indeed, a true château in France cannot even feature a swimming pool, and prior to applying paint, each shade must be vetted by Les Architectes des Bâtiments de France, the state gatekeepers of modernisation.

Aware of the honour it is to revive such a historic building, Corrigan was willing to jump through these hoops, but not without injecting his own flair.

The ‘no pool’ ruling was negated by a crack in a reflecting pond. The fault allowed the pond to be made deeper and wider until it became the château’s heated pool facility. Fortunately for Corrigan, authorities also seemed less concerned with design choices inside the château – and this is where his creativity has truly shone.

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of any lingering stuffiness, blending California casual with European opulence. The contrasting styles have created a truly unique aesthetic.

Ornate door carvings are offset by plush damask sofas, dotted with tapestry cushions. Light-hearted ornaments line sculpted mantelpieces, juxtaposed with 18th-century murals and portraits hanging from the walls. Fresh paint adds vibrancy to the decor – particularly the bold pink hue of the dining room. When questioned on this choice, Corrigan says, “There are certain rooms where drama is key, and the dining room is one of them. You’re not in a dining room for that long so you can go for some real wow factor.”

There are currently 14 guest rooms, with more on the way, and each has a distinct charm. Every room was designed with a personality in mind, with Corrigan asking himself, “What if Virginia Wolfe was staying?

Or a French general?” This thinking informed his colour palettes, his drapes, his linens; the last thing he wanted was for it to feel like an ordinary hotel, and these details truly make each room memorable.

The American designer now spends two months of each year in his European haven, feeling both a million miles from the Los Angeles bustle, yet undeniably at home. châteaugrandluce.com

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TWO WORLDS COLLIDE Buildings of this century generally have an air of stifling haughtiness attached to them, as if to enter, you, like everything inside, must be prim, proper and impeccably presented. However, Corrigan had cosier intentions.

“If you live in a room that’s beautiful, but not comfortable, it’s not successful,” he told Architectural Digest. Guests should feel at home, not like a chameleon straining to blend into new, lavish surrounds.

After extensive interior renovations, Corrigan has successfully rid Château du Grand-Lucé signatureluxurytravel.com.au

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Image: Cycling at Mont-Saint-Michel Š Atout France/ Pierre Torset

SIGNATURE MICE Meetings, Incentives, Conferences & Events Cycling’s popularity is growing in corporate bonding circles

CYCLING: THE NEW GOLF Cycling is turning into the sport of choice for team building and networking in the corporate world, and France is the ultimate destination to make it happen, writes Joanna Tovia.

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arly risers in any Australian city will surely have noticed the growing number of lycra-clad cyclists hunched over handlebars, rounding busy street corners and gathered in groups at cafes for postride cappuccinos before they head off to work. It isn’t just the chance for an early-morning workout that’s driving this rise in popularity; cycling is being favoured over golf as a way for business people to develop relationships, cement deals and commune with like-minded

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02 01 Watching the Tour de France or participating in the Étape du Tour offers a great corporate bonding experience 02 Lourdes is the departure city for the Tour de France’s 19th stage in July 03 Cyclists sampling Crottin de Chavignol cheese and wine in the Sancerre vineyards © Atout France/ Joël Damase 04 Cycling past some of France’s most spectacular scenery

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colleagues and contemporaries. These have long been outcomes achieved on the golf course, but busy schedules and the time it takes to play a round means a game is becoming harder to squeeze in, particularly when it requires synchronising more than one person’s schedule to make it happen.

Capitalising on this craze is a series of tour operators that are now offering bespoke trips for the corporate market.

“You get to know someone after a few hours on a bike,” says Iain Lygo, owner

of Australia’s Peloton Tours. “Biking is the new golf. In a busy world, people don’t have a spare day for golf or cricket.

Two hours on a bike in the morning means the rest of the day is free.”

Peloton Tours takes care of all the logistics on a cycling trip, allowing participants to focus on the fun and challenge of riding – and team building – free of the hassle of having to think about bike trailers, spares and flats, refreshments and accommodation.

“A cycling trip is a great way to network and build relationships,” says Iain. “A trip of a lifetime to France is certainly going to enhance your company’s brand and the loyalty of people important to your bottom line.”

If a trip to France is too expensive or too far for a company to consider, an alternative is an ongoing cycling program, explains Iain. These typically include four to six local morning rides a year followed by business breakfasts, group entries into

gran fondos (long-distance road rides), and several night-time events where groups gather to watch key Tour de France stages or the Spring Classics.

“These extended programs tend to offer better ongoing networking where people ride and do business together, and the big overseas trips also become more viable,” Iain says.

Business and pleasure There’s long been a natural fit between sport and business, says Sport Tours International’s Peter Morgan. Companies that provide workers the chance to bond over a shared experience stand to benefit long after the event is over.

Long hours in front of computers can take a toll on employee health, he says, so a program that encourages health and fitness can lead to significant rewards – lower absenteeism and stress levels, as well as happier, more energetic employees, to name but a few. Sports Tours International is an official tour signatureluxurytravel.com.au

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operator for Tour de France, offering VIP spectator packages with behind-thescenes access, the chance to ride in an official car, Michelin-starred dining at Le Laurent restaurant by the ChampsÉlysées, and a great vantage point from which to watch the finishing straight.

Cycling challenges can also be organised, with entry into events such as Étape du Tour, where cyclists can ride the same route as a Tour de France stage, or a four-day ride from London to Paris.

Corporate Cycling (CC), meanwhile, tailors European cycling trips to a client’s timing and objectives.

“Taking a small group of key clients, staff or supply-chain contacts away for a multi-day experience is a great way to build camaraderie,” says CC director Nathan Lorkin. “The challenge element and shared effort is a potent tool to strengthen communication and connection in a way more passive activities can’t match.”

Nathan says the ideal group size is between eight and 14 riders, because it allows for a series of conversations and a mix of abilities. “Certainly a cycling trip is targeted at someone with some interest and experience, but because trips are bespoke, the level of difficulty 148

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is tailored and can vary greatly,” he says. CC packages include options for lead-up events and coaching to help groups get to know each other and train prior to a trip, which can make for a smoother and happier experience.

Good food and wine and time to explore are important elements of a trip. “Sometimes formal meetings are requested ahead of a ride, but we’ve found that some of the best conversations and resolutions occur in the riding or the talk that follows,” Nathan says. “Creativity and connection

arise spontaneously and often formal meetings are let go as unnecessary.”

France is a special destination for those with an interest in cycling, Nathan says. “Stunning and diverse riding options, respectful and cycling-friendly motorists, fabulous food and that certain je ne sais quoi of France combine to create a marvellous package.”

Travel file

Experience pelotontours.com.au sportstoursinternational.co.uk corporatecycling.cc

Disaronno wears Missoni at Jonah’s

Missoni’s trademark zigzag pattern is the latest signature fashion print to adorn Italian liqueur, Disaronno’s, limited-edition bottle.

It is the fifth consecutive year that Disaronno has collaborated with an Italian fashion house in support of the Fashion for Development charity. While Angela Missoni launched the new Disaronno wears Missoni bottle at Milano Fashion Week, Australian media and connoisseurs toasted the chic arrival by being whisked to Jonah’s by Sydney Seaplanes for an exclusive lunch by the water.

Guests feasted on oysters, ravioli, Murray cod and a white chocolate and sage ice-cream, and sampled fabulous Disaronno cocktails, including the celebratory Angela20 in honour of Angela Missoni’s 20 years as creative director of the fashion label. disaronno.com

Celebrating the arrival of Infinity Pacific on Sydney Harbour

Sydney’s only Italian-built alloy superyacht available for charter marked her arrival in style with a harbour cruise and media lunch on Tuesday 21 November. Guests enjoyed a signature tasting menu by chef Peter Kuruvita, who curates the onboard culinary offerings, and were delighted to find that Peter was present to guide them through the three-course sit-down lunch with a distinctly maritime flavour. Infinity Pacific is now available for charter for multi-day itineraries, events and even private dining experiences on Sydney Harbour as well as destinations including Brisbane, Cairns, Gold Coast and further afield to New Zealand and the South Pacific. The 40-metre yacht can accommodate a dining experience for up to 20 guests and five suites and cabins.

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Diamonds dazzle at Champagne Soirée

The legendary region of Champagne, France, was the centrepiece of Atout France’s Champagne Soirée on Wednesday 18 October. Upon arrival in the lobby of Sofitel Sydney Wentworth, a woman in a crinoline-like skirt holding glasses of Piper-Heidsieck invited guests to select a flute.

Each had a diamond in the bottom of the glass, but only one was real, worth $5000 from Percy Marks jewellers. A highlight of the evening was the sabrage ceremony, an alwaysimpressive spectacle that sees a bottle of champagne opened with a sabre. champagneardenne-tourism.co.uk au.france.fr

J Farren-Price marks 75 years of glamour

The jewellery and timepieces weren’t the only things sparkling when J Farren-Price celebrated its 75th anniversary with an intimate event in October. Guests, clientele and partners savoured an evening of champagne and culinary delights, complemented by scintillating live performances by violinist Nan Heo, high-flying aerial jazz vocalist Miss Bird Sings and a burlesque dance sequence that harked back to the glamour of 1940s Hollywood. Throughout the evening, guests interacted with pieces from the boutique’s collections, including from Rolex, Patek Philippe, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Roberto Coin and Picchiotti. jfarrenprice.com.au 150

Signature Media toasts a fantastic year

We’ve worked hard this year in the Signature office, and to celebrate the festive season, we treated ourselves to a Christmas party on Sydney Harbour with All Occasion Cruises. The fantastic crew of Sunseeker wined and dined us as we watched the sun set over our gorgeous city and soaked up the sights from our sleek yacht. aocruises.com.au

Some enchanted evening

More than 900 people from the Australian financial services community turned out in support of the Financial Markets Foundation for Children and its annual Enchanted Ball on Friday 10 November. The 2017 ball raised a record $1,401,658, with $75,000 coming from raffle sales alone. Signature’s Group Editor & CEO, Cathy Wagstaff, was one of the lucky winners, claiming first prize in the raffle and coming home with a 2018 Mitsubishi Eclipse Cross. enchantedball.com.au

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After-sun appeal

Every product from Parisian salon La Biosthetique is designed to work in harmony with your body’s own bio-chemistry, leaving skin and hair looking and feeling refreshed naturally.Tailored to protect and nourish skin and hair cells after exposure to the sun, the Soleil range comprises regenerative face masks and an after-sun hair crème complete with UV filters.

Win!

Win! We have two La Biosthetique Soleil hair packs to give away, valued at $103. labiosthetique.com.au

Fake it, don’t bake it

It’s not every day your office gets turned into a tanning salon. Admittedly it’s not the best for productivity, but the women in the Signature office have never had a more enjoyable bonding experience.

As we watched Natasha Mikhaylova, the founder of Ms.Lova, set up her mobile tan tent, any fears of reliving past tangerine-coloured nightmares vanished. Natasha’s professionalism and her passion for creating the vegan and organic Ms.Lova range had us all excited to show-off our own summerready tan. With twice-daily moisturising and Ms.Lova’s hydrating, Vitamin C and E and aloe vera-rich formula, our tans lasted the whole week.

Win! We’re giving away 15 Ms.Lova gift sets, including Tanning Mousse and application mitt, valued at $34.90 each. mslova.com

Win!

Win!

Reinventing the rose

To celebrate 10 years since its first foray into the world of fragrance, Chloé has released Absolu de Parfum, a limited-edition homage to the atelier’s original scent. Alluring in its intensity and christened a “more refined” older sister to the Eau de Parfum, it is a tribute to the effortless beauty synonymous with the Chloé brand.

Win! We have three to give away, each

valued at $145 for 50ml. chloe.com/au

Prolong your glow

There’s no reason why your summer complexion should fade with the warm weather, and thanks to Jurlique, it no longer has to. The experts in Australian skin care have engineered the two-step Radiance Renewal 28 Day Program, which – packed with botanical concentrates – works with your skin’s natural renewal cycle to exfoliate and enhance luminosity, allowing that dewy summer glow to endure.

Win! We have five sets of Radiance

Renewal 28 Day Programme to give away, valued at $99. jurlique.com.au

To win one of these great prizes, visit

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Win!

Image © Grand-Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat, A Four Seasons Hotel

SIGNATURE WELLBEING The best spas in the French-speaking world

SPA SENSATIONS The French-speaking world is home to some of the finest spas on the planet, each dedicated to helping you relax and recharge in beautiful and serene surrounds, writes Joanna Tovia.

SPA MÉTROPOLE

BY GIVENCHY

Hôtel Métropole, Monte-Carlo

It’s only fitting that the lavish Hôtel Métropole should have a first-class spa, and Spa Métropole by Givenchy certainly doesn’t disappoint. Parisian architect Didier Gomez worked his magic on the space, creating a sophisticated and ultra-soothing ambience. The Heat Experience package combines time in 154

the sauna, hammam, caldarium, ice fountain and sensory showers with a 60-minute Hydra Sparkling facial, Divine Harmony massage and lunch at the Odyssey restaurant beside the Karl Lagerfeld-designed pool. Guests can choose a fragrance to accompany their spa experience in and out of the treatment room, along with a tailored playlist of music by French musician Béatrice Ardisson. metropole.com

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“Guests can choose a fragrance to accompany their spa experience and a playlist of music.”

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01 Le Spa’s pool at Grand-Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat on the French Riviera © Christian Horan/Four Seasons 02 The luxurious Ritz Club Paris © Vincent Leroux 03 Thermes Marins Monte-Carlo is dedicated to wellness © Christian Larit/SBM 04 Le Spa at Grand-Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat offers treatments by the sea © Christian Horan/Four Seasons

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THERMES MARINS MONTE-CARLO

Monte-Carlo

Adjoining both Hôtel de Paris and Hôtel Hermitage Monte-Carlo, this cuttingedge 6600-square-metre haven of serenity is dedicated solely to wellness.

The centrepiece is a circular indoor pool heated to 29 degrees with water drawn from a depth of 37 metres, 400 metres out to sea. The seashell-shaped ceiling fans out to a spacious outdoor terrace and Jacuzzi overlooking the yacht-studded port and ocean beyond.

The treatment rooms, hammam, sauna and panoramic fitness room enhance that sense of wellbeing we all crave. La Prairie and marine-based skincare brand Phytomer are used in treatments, which range from table shower massages and hydro massages, to signature day spa experiences incorporating a healthy lunch at L’Hirondelle. thermesmarinsmontecarlo.com

VINOTHÉRAPIE SPA

Les Sources de Caudalie, Bordeaux

This exclusive spa of wood, glass and stone is surrounded by the vineyards of Château Smith Haut Lafitte. Treatments use mineral-rich hot-spring water drawn from 540 metres underground, along with beneficial ingredients from grapes and vines. The four-day Vitality Cure begins with a red vine barrel bath, Merlot wrap and slimming concentrate treatment and treats your body, mind and soul to scrubs, massages, wraps and facials – in between more soothing barrel soaks – in the days to come. The steam room, relaxation rooms and jet stream are also part of the experience.

A trainer can take you running through the vineyards or cycling in the forest, then reward yourself with an evening out at the on-site two-Michelin-star restaurant before adjourning to your cabin by the lake. sources-caudalie.com

LE SPA

Grand-Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat, Côte d’Azur

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This palatial icon on the French Riviera has an award-winning spa overlooking a 1200-square-metre spa garden with sea-view sun terraces. The al fresco Jet-lag Package will relax and revive the weary traveller with lavender and

lemon aromas, a detoxifying scrub, regenerating body massage and a glow-inducing mask. Le Spa uses Dr Burgener and Biologique Recherche products. fourseasons.com/capferrat

RITZ CLUB PARIS

Ritz Paris

The Ritz has gone all out in its quest to create a spa sanctuary that feels far removed from the worries of the world. The exclusive Chanel treatments reinterpret philosophies from the East and West in an approach designed to relieve tension, awaken the senses and evoke a feeling of wellbeing and vitality.

Le Grand Soin is the ultimate multisensory treatment for those in need of some self-care, with a tailored skincare program for face and body that plumps, smooths and firms. A Chanel facial treatment followed by a customised makeup session is just the thing to have you feeling and looking your best before a glamorous evening out. ritzparis.com

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DEEP NATURE SPA

Sheraton New Caledonia Deva Spa & Golf Resort

Relaxation is assured in a beautiful natural setting, but a session at the light-filled Deep Nature Spa will take that sense of serenity a level deeper.

The treatment rooms offer views over the mountain or World Heritage-listed lagoon and there’s a Jacuzzi, footbath, hammam, sauna and relaxation room to enjoy before or after a treatment.

Organic oils and marine-based skincare products are used in the spa’s range of facials, massages and body scrubs. Children need not miss out; there are massage sessions for kids, beauty treatments for teens, and even a chance for a parent and child to enjoy a pampering massage together. sheratonnewcaledoniadeva.com

AQUA ROYAL SPA

Chateau Royal Beach Resort & Spa Noumea

A 300-square-metre pool with 12 hydro massage stations delivers relaxation with a difference at this spa beside the sea. Treatments range from brightening, anti-ageing or hydrating facials to massages designed to slim and tone,

04 Visitors to Vinothérapie Spa benefit from the goodness of grapes © N Baetens/Les Sources de Caudalie 05 The treatment pavilions at Le Spa by le Taha’a 06 Water therapy in the tropical surrounds of Le Spa by le Taha’a in Tahiti

balance your energies and promote a deep sense of wellbeing. The Journey to the Heart of the Volcano treatment includes a lava powder body scrub, volcanic earth body wrap and hot-stone massage. Treatments can also include time to unwind in a private bubble bath with a glass of champagne. complexechateauroyal.nc/en

LE SPA BY LE TAHA’A

Le Taha’a Island Resort & Spa, Tahiti

This Relais & Châteaux-endorsed resort on the secluded Motu Tautau islet is set in an exotic garden overlooking a calm lagoon. Most treatments use Monoi, a traditional Polynesian oil infused with coconuts and flowers. Taha’a is known as the Vanilla Island; the balancing treatment known as Vanilla Dream is an indulgent way to immerse yourself in this heavenly scent and surrender

to the slower pace of island life. The 80-minute Balneotherapy & Polynesian Relaxing massage, meanwhile, begins with a long soak in a coconut-milk whirlpool bath and ends with a tensionsapping massage. letahaa.com

HÉLÈNE SPA

InterContinental Moorea Resort & Spa

When you’re not diving into the warm sea from your own overwater bungalow and exploring the surrounds by snorkel and mask, try the Tahitian therapies on offer at the luxurious Hélène Spa. Using natural local ingredients – wild miri, Tahitian vanilla, coconut, tropical grapefruit and fresh banana tree leaves – treatments are inspired by holistic secrets passed on by Polynesian healers.

A traditional river bath afterwards is a fine place to watch the sun go down. moorea.intercontinental.com signatureluxurytravel.com.au

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