House & Home - September 2015

SEPTEMBER 2015 Vol. 1 Iss. 4

The Prizel Home

“I would live here forever if I could.”

Sartwell Mansion takes its place in historic district

Squirrels in the attic?

Pointers on humane wildlife removal

How to tame the energy hogs in your home

Ask a Designer: the evolving home office

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SEPTEMBER 17, 2015

House & Home is a must read for anyone in market for a home in the Twin Tiers The three newspapers — the Olean Times Herald, The Bradford Era and The Salamanca Press — of Bradford Publishing Co. have combined their resources to produce a new special section, House & Home.

The intention of the edition is to make it a must-read for anyone who is in the market for a new home in the area — or even someone who is thinking of selling a home.

House & Home includes regular, locally produced features on interesting homes in the area — perhaps for their historic value or because of certain features — while the section is filled with information on remodeling, decorating and landscaping trends as well as the money matters behind buying and owning a home.

The section also includes numerous listings from area Realtors of homes for sale.

Homeowners who believe they have living spaces with enough character and features to be spotlighted in House & Home are encouraged to contact special sections coordinators Adam Vosler at (716) 372-3121 ext. 231 (email is avosler@oleantimesherald.com) or Alex Davis at (814) 3626531 (email is a.davis@bradfordera.com).

Jim Eckstrom Executive Group Editor

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The Prizel Home

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Photo by Diana McElfresh The front entrance to the Prizel Home features a copper roof in Mission style.

By Diana McElfresh Special to House & Home

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ndy and Maggie Knapp have lived everywhere from Rochester to Vermont to China, but few places have compared to their current home at 804 W. Henley St. “I would live here forever if I could,” Maggie Knapp says.

William J. and Nellie Lestrange built the home, often referred to as the Prizel Home, in 1919. Down the street, on the 600 block of Henley, they built a smaller version of the same home for their son.

That home still stands today.

The Prizel Home has changed hands several times since it was first built. The Lestranges bequeathed the home to their nephew, Edward Finnessy. It was then sold to F. Donald Kenney, a prominent Olean financier, in 1974. After Kenney’s death in 1997, the home The Prizel Home continues on page

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Photo by Diana McElfresh A fireplace in the master bedroom warms up the room on cold winter days, according to Maggie Knapp.

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SEPTEMBER 17, 2015

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was sold to Bob and Tiffany Prizel. The home was also owned by the Smith and Frew families.

The Prizel family updated the home’s structure, making the roof concrete so it would last for up to 100 years, according to Knapp.

The Prizels also installed new custom-made windows that fall in line with the style of the home, as well as a chandelier custom-built from antique pieces by an artisan in Canada.

The inside of the home is covered in thick plaster rather than drywall, making it almost impossible to hear outside noises. The baseboards are also made of plaster, making it more durable than the typical wood baseboard.

Photo by Diana McElfresh The Prizel Home at 804 W. Henley St. in Olean features a grand staircase.

Photo by Diana McElfresh The sunroom of the Prizel Home offers warmth and peace at 804 W. Henley St. in Olean.

The home is also equipped with three fireplaces, original to the structure of the home, but recently converted to be gas-burning rather than wood-burning.

The Knapp family recently replaced the front steps of the home, as they had been falling apart for some time. The old steps were made of slate, which is abundantly quarried in the area, Knapp notes.

However, it had deteriorated over time.

The design of the home doesn’t stick to one consistent design style; instead, it is a combination of arts-and-crafts, Colonial revival and mission style, Knapp says. It is unclear whether the architect for the home wasn’t cognizant of the differences in style or whether he thought it would be a better decision to combine styles.

Either way, it worked.

“It really is a beautiful home,” Knapp says.

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Sartwell Mansion takes its place in historic district

By Fran De Lancey

Special to House & Home

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ll houses have histories, and most of the stately homes in Smethport’s Mansion District were built in the 19th century when wood from this region helped Pennsylvania become one of the top lumber producing states in the nation.

Consider, for example, the Charles Sartwell Mansion, reported to have been built circa 1848 by Solomon Sartwell, that now dominates the northern side of the 700 block of West Main Street. The kitchen and back part of the house were added at a later date.

The home is an example of Eclectic architecture, a mixture of several different styles popular in the 19th century. While this particular style retains some general consistencies, such as symmetry, dormers, tall, steep roofs, covered porches and double hung or casement windows, it still allowed architects to keep previous historic precedents, and at the same time create new features.

“Historic” homes have several definitions. By one account, they are defined as being at least 50 years old and usually maintaining most of their original architectural details.

Another description says that an “historic” house is one that is worth saving — it’s not defined by age alone.

And yet, according to still another standard, if a 100-year-

old house is worth remodeling, it probably has features worth saving.

Phil and Karen Smith are the current owners. They purchased the 14-room home in 2013 when they relocated from Colorado, becoming just the third owners since 1961. Each of the previous owners added individual changes of their own.

At one time, this building contained three apartments. Jeff Keppel and his wife, owners prior to the Smiths, transformed it into a one-family residence.

“What knowledge we have about the house’s history we learned from our research and papers given to us,” Karen Smith Sartwell Mansion continues on page

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SEPTEMBER 17, 2015

Photo by Fran De Lancey The Charles Sartwell Mansion in Smethport’s historic Mansion District on West Main Street is now owned by Karen and Phil Smith.

Sartwell Mansion continued from page

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said. “I feel proud to live in a house filled with so much history and character. I often wonder who sat in the living room or kitchen and what transpired.”

People often ask if the house is haunted. “I think the spirit of Ann Elizabeth Sartwell is here, but it’s probably a benign spirit,” said Karen Smith.

According to Karen, “When a house guest couldn’t find her glasses and necklaces, she suspected Mrs. Sartwell of hiding them. Later, though, these items were found under the bed.”

Mrs. Sartwell, wife of the original owner, died of dropsy in 1891 at the age of 65.

Since purchasing the house, the Smiths have completed extensive changes to the house that has a full attic and basement and two floors of living space. A porch on the east side

has been restored.

Phil Smith said, “Also, we had the 36 old storm windows removed and replaced with energy efficient windows. Two chimneys have been rebuilt for safety.”

The exterior painting is now in progress and about 80 percent finished.

Plumbing and electrical standards have changed over time, and these systems in older homes don’t always meet current codes. “We upgraded the electrical service to 200 amps and a 100-amp sub-feed to the garage,” Phil Smith added.

For heating, a high efficiency boiler has been installed.

Former owners decorated with reproduction William Morris wallpaper, which the Smiths have retained.

Gothic light fixtures can be found can be found in the dining and living rooms, as well as the upper porch over the front door.

“Surprisingly, we use most of the house,” Karen Smith said.

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Our area’s dedicated realtors offer you many properties some of which are highlighted in House & Home Spotlights. Call an agent today.

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Fear of the Unknown – How to Approach Extremely Scarce Items

By Harry L. Rinker

Harry L. Rinker, LLC

Beware of the unusual is one of tenets that I stress during the authenticating seminar that I teach at my Institute for the Study of Antiques and Collectibles. Unusual is one of many mental alarm bells that should sound in a person’s mind when he/she encounters an object that does not fit the norm.

The norm consists of all the expected elements inherent in an object – period, form, shape, construction, material, surface, pattern, color, and more. To an experienced antiques and collectibles connoisseur, the object meets every specification the person expects.

There is no question the object is what it is.

Authenticating requires a questioning mindset, one that never accepts an object at face value. The object must prove conclusively that it is what it appears to be. Individuals must prevent subjective love at first sight and desire from clouding the objective analysis that is required. The tendency to trust the initial impression of an object often leads to disastrous results. Authentication is a meticulous step by step process.

The difficulty rests with a desire on the part of those involved in

the antiques and collectibles trade to adhere to fixed rules that establish the norm in each collecting category and can be applied universally. When an object does not conform to these rules, the tendency is to dismiss it as a copycat (stylistic copy of a period piece), fantasy (form, shape, or pattern that did not exist historically), enhanced, altered, or fake. The result is that a period object that does not conform to the fixed rules can be overlooked and undervalued.

I first became aware of this when teaching an authenticating seminar with David Lindquist, owner of Whitehall at the Villa Antiques in Chapel Hill, North Carolina. During a discussion of the construction techniques used to attach the center splat on a period Chippendale arm or side chair and a later copy, attention was drawn to the distinction between a two-part and integral shoe. A period Chippendale chair had an extra piece (shoe) attached to the top of the back rail into which the splat fit. In later copies, the back rail included a raised section in the middle of the top that replaced the separate shoe. The obvious conclusion was that if the back rail was one solid piece, the chair was a later copy.

A Chippendale period North Carolina furniture craftsman decontinues on next page

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cided not to follow the standard convention. He used an integral shoe for the back rail of his chairs. The absence of a two-part shoe created a first impression that the chair was made later. However, a detailed examination of the other stylistic and construction details of the chair perfectly matched the conventions of the Chippendale period. The construction of the back rail was unusual, but the chair was period.

The North Carolina Chippendale chair is only one of many examples of antiques and collectibles that I encountered in my career that have deviated from the norm.

Reference books are essential tools in establishing norms in collecting categories. The critical researcher understands that he/she needs to exercise caution when using any reference book. First, reference books are not error free. Misattributions occur far more often than is realized. Second, some authors make assumptions that certain pieces must exist, even though they have no evidence. Third, there is no reference book that pictures every single object in a collecting category.

Early in my career, I encountered a large custard glass punch bowl with a relief of a western plains scene that included a herd of buffalo on its outer surface. The owner was not able to find a reference to it in any glass reference books, including a specialized guide to custard glass. He had shown the custard glass punch bowl to dozens of glass experts who suggested a strong distrust that it was period, a conclusion based primarily on the “I have never seen one before” philosophy.

[Author’s Aside #1: When someone tells me “I have never seen one before,” my standard response is “where have you looked?”]

After subjecting the custard glass punch bowl to all the authenticating rules I knew, I concluded the bowl was period. The size, color of the glass, thickness of the glass, high quality of detail in the relief decoration on the side, and wear were among the evidence that supported my conclusion. The bowl was scarce.

[Author’s Aside #2: I no longer use rare, the word has lost all its meaning in today’s antiques and col-

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lectibles marketplace. When doing a search for “rare” on eBay on August 2, 2015, I received 2,694,912 hits.

A “rare +antique” search resulted in 124,764 hits, including an “Antique Vintage Glass Rolling Pin Hand Blown Apple Pie Ridge Vinegar Rare” for $16.99.

The misuse of rare is beyond repair.]

The custard glass punch bowl was not one of a kind. Over my career, I saw several additional examples. The bowl was made from a mold, one that had to be very expensive to produce. Why more were not produced remains a mystery. Perhaps it was a special commission or the production process was too tedious to produce large numbers of marketable examples.

The antiques and collectibles field is overwhelmed with unanswered questions.

The owner wanted to sell the custard glass punch bowl. Everything suggested that it would be an ultimate unit/masterpiece addition to any custard glass collection. Because the piece was not referenced in any book and its origins speculative, no buyer was willing to pay a premium price. Resistance to taking a chance was too strong, unless, of course, the selling price was cheap.

Wishing to add a chatelaine to Linda’s Victorian jewelry collection, I was offered a chatelaine unlike any I had seen. Although it had three hallmarks, I was unable to find them in my silver reference books. I spent over an hour on the internet looking at pictures of Victorian chatelaines, none of which remotely resembled the one I was offered. If scarce, the price was reasonable. However, was the price worth taking a chance the piece may not be what it was purported to be?

Although the decorative motif suggested a Slavic origin, the hallmarks did not match any I found for Hungary, Poland, or Russia. Northern Italy is another origin possibility, but the hallmarks are definitely not Italian. Deciphering the chatelaine’s hallmarks is the type of research project I love. Once done, I should be able to understand the decorative motifs better.

The research reminded me of how much Americontinues on page 14

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can, English, and Continental examples prejudice my thoughts about regarding what I expect to see when authenticating at an object. Objects copying American and European design styles were made throughout the world. Local artisans would have altered them to incorporate regional design preference.

In the last quarter of the 20th century, collectibles collectors introduced the concept of variation, a mass-produced example that differed from the standard production run. In the case of Matchbox cars, there are several reference books devoted just to variations.

Unscrupulous individuals started creating “fake” variations. These false variations were responsible for ending the PEZ collecting craze. Die-cast toy car collectors are especially vulnerable. Clear glass is placed in ovens or exposed to the hot sun for long periods while placed in a car trunk to change the color to a light to medium purple. “Rare” colors in glass insulators are created through heat and/or chemicals. For these reasons and more, collectors of mass-produced items are extremely leery of any object listed as scarce.

Scarcity, condition, and desirability are the three primary value factors in today’s antiques and collectibles marketplace. The basic assumption is that

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if an object is scarce, its value should be enhanced.

The truth is that scarcity is far more likely to be a value deterrent unless the authenticity of the object is beyond question.

The antiques and collectibles trade is a business where opinion weighs far more heavily than in other professions. Reliable information about the origin of pieces often is lost, either through the passage of time or negligence.

In summary, acceptance of the scarcity of an object is an individual decision. Comfortableness with that decision rests heavily on the person’s ability to question and authenticate. Reliance on the judgment of others, no matter what their expertise, is risky. The piece needs to speak for itself.

Harry L. Rinker welcomes questions from readers about collectibles, those massproduced items from the twentieth and twenty-first centuries. Selected letters will be answered in this column. Harry cannot provide personal answers. Photos and other material submitted cannot be returned.

Send your questions to: Rinker on Collectibles, 5955 Mill Point Court SE, Kentwood, MI 49512. You also can e-mail your questions to harrylrinker@aol.com. Only e-mails containing a full name and mailing address will be considered.

You can listen and participate in WHATCHA GOT?, Harry’s antiques and collectibles radio call-in show, on Sunday mornings between 8:00 AM and 10:00 AM Eastern Time. If you cannot find it on a station in your area, WHATCHA GOT? streams live on the Internet at www.gcnlive.com.

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Squirrels in the attic?

Pointers on humane wildlife removal

By Diana Marszalek Associated Press

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s much as my family and I love to have suburban wildlife around our New York-area home, some of the cuteness wore off when we found rodents living under the roof.

A mama squirrel (perhaps she was expecting) had set up a cozy little nest in our attic — a wise move considering the temperature was dipping and she had a brood to care for. As Jack Murphy, co-founder of Denver-based Urban Wildlife Rescue, puts it: “They can live in a tree. And we can live all winter on the prairie in a tent. But having a house is a lot nicer.”

So my husband, Paul — a do-it-yourself kind of guy (and looking to save a grand or so on critter eviction) — sprang into action. Once the little tykes were old enough to go outside the nest on their own — cute as can be, peering over the eaves of our roof — he rigged up the trusty “have-a-heart” trap, relocating them to places you’d think squirrels would like. One got new digs creek-side in a forest preserve. Another was escorted to a wooded college campus.

But it was with heavy hearts we later learned that his efforts were more misguided than magnanimous. Experts say most squirrels — even ones old enough to fend for themselves — don’t survive being moved. They succumb to everything from turf wars to an inability to adapt to new habitats.

“Relocation is a feel-good myth,” Murphy says.

State and federal agencies discourage relocating wildlife, and in some cases ban it.

And removing a mother squirrel without her litter can also have a dreadful outcome, says Murphy. “Most of the calls we get about orphans are the results of humans doing something stupid,” he says.

Ugh. Ned Bruha, who does business as The Skunk Whisperer in Oklahoma City, is another of the country’s few specialists in humane wildlife removal. He says the wiser move — in addition to leaving the job to the pros — would have been to let the squir-

rels hunker down until they were ready to leave the attic on their own, and then provide them a one-way door for doing so.

There’s no real risk in letting them hang out awhile, Bruha says; the danger of squirrels doing damage like chewing through wires is overblown. At the same time, when the animals do move outside they’re in familiar surroundings.

Without remedial and preventive repairs, however, you’ll likely have another tenant in no time, as there is no shortage of squirrels looking for a place to live.

“If you have squirrels in your attic, you do not have a squirrel problem. You have a house problem,” Bruha says. “And if you treat this as a building problem and not a wildlife problem, you are going to have longer-term results.”

Once the animals are definitely out, Bruha deodorizes their former home and its surroundings with an industrial-strength cleanser designed specifically to neutralize the odors that wildlife like squirrels leave behind, and that attracts others.

Next: Repair the areas the squirrels have been using to go in and out of your attic, and make sure they don’t create new entry points.

“What we don’t want them to do is walk out, walk around the corner and chew in on one of those other architectural features,” Bruha says.

Preventing that doesn’t require elaborate repairs, he says.

Identify the spots that squirrels are likely to chew through — old attic screens and roof vents among others.

“There is no reason to make your house look like Fort Knox to keep them out forever,” Bruha says.

Both Bruha and Murphy stress the importance of working with an expert in humane wildlife removal, a small but growing sector of the business.

On the brink of another squirrel birthing season (they have two litters a year), that’s on my To Do List.

I do, however, think fondly of those little guys scampering around the roof last year, and of watching them get their first taste of freedom and the big wide world.

I just hope they are doing well out there.

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How to tame the energy hogs in your home

By Consumer Reports xx

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ver wonder where all of your energy dollars go? Knowing where your home’s biggest energy sucks are can help you focus your efficiency efforts, says Consumer Reports.

Here’s a breakdown of energy use and costs in the average residence, along with steps you can take to bring your costs in check.

FORTY-THREE PERCENT: HEATING • If you have a forced-air system, having your ductwork sealed by a pro can save you hundreds each year because 25 to 40 percent of conditioned air (hot and cold) is lost to leaks.

• Plug drafty windows and doors with caulk or weatherstripping.

• Adequately insulate the attic. The typical residence needs 11 inches of fiberglass or rock wool, or 8 inches of cellulose insulation.

SIXTEEN PERCENT: WATER HEATING • If your water heater is among the 41 million units in the U.S. that are more than 10 years old, consider an upgrade. This fall, Energy Star is working with utilities and retailers to offer rebates to consumers who make the switch. Go to energystar. gov/waterheaters.

• Wash your clothes in cold water. Consumer Reports’ toprated detergents deliver superb cool-water cleaning in its tests.

• Install low-flow faucets and showerheads throughout the home. They’ll save water as well as energy.

NINE PERCENT: APPLIANCES • Consider trading in an older refrigerator. A current Energy Star model uses 50 percent less energy than a refrigerator from 2001. Of course, you should retire the old model rather than keeping it running in the basement or garage.

• Older washing machines are also worth trading in, especially after a tougher new federal standard that took effect in March 2015. If your unit is more than 10 years old, it’s costing you about $180 more per year than a new one.

• Run the dishwasher only when it has a full load, and use the “rinse hold” feature sparingly because it uses 3 to 7 gallons

of hot water each time.

SEVEN PERCENT: COOLING • If your home has central air that’s more than a decade old, a new system could be up to 40 percent more efficient.

Work with a reputable contractor who will size the system correctly; you might be able to downsize if you’ve made other efficiency upgrades, such as new attic insulation.

• Install a programmable thermostat, which can automatically adjust the temperature in your home for maximum savings and comfort (in summer and winter).

• Don’t replace windows just to save energy. But if your windows are failing, choose new ones with a low-E coating that reflects heat yet lets light in.

FIFTEEN PERCENT: OTHER • Plug your laptop’s AC adaptor into a power strip that can be turned off. That saves energy because the transformer in the adaptor draws power even when the laptop isn’t attached.

• If you have a stand-alone freezer with manual defrost, still a common feature, don’t let frost build up more than one-quarter inch, because that will affect the efficiency of the unit.

FIVE PERCENT: LIGHTING • Switch to high-efficiency LEDs, which use up to 80 percent less energy than traditional incandescent bulbs.

• Place dimmable fixtures on dimmer switches. They’ll enable you to save even more energy by maintaining lower light levels.

• For outdoor fixtures, save energy with a motion sensor or a photocell that turns the lights on at dusk and off at dawn.

FOUR PERCENT: ELECTRONICS • Ask your cable company to upgrade the set-top boxes in your home to ones that meet the latest 4.1 Energy Star specification, making them 35 percent more efficient on average.

• Unplug computers, stereos and video game consoles.

They draw power even when they’re off.

• Trade in that decade-old flat-screen TV. Based on Consumer Reports’ tests, it costs about $66 per year to run, compared with $25 or so for a new high-efficiency model.

For more information, check out the report online at ConsumerReports.org/cro/energyhogs.

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Ask a Designer: the evolving home office

By Melissa Rayworth Associated Press

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aybe you dash off work e-mails while making dinner, or you squeeze in a half-hour of work on a spreadsheet before bedtime. The line between “at work” and “at home” has become a blurry one for many people, and for others it has disappeared entirely. That makes a home workspace more necessary than ever.

Not every home includes a spare room available for use as an office, but design experts say that’s not a problem: Today’s streamlined technology means that just about any space can be transformed into an appealing and organized area for working.

“Walk into any creative corporation and you’ll find the CEO sitting right smack in the middle of a large, open space along with almost every other key player,” says designer Brian Patrick Flynn of Flynnside Out Productions. “This relaxed, informal atmosphere has become the norm, not just in corporate settings but also in the home.”

Here, Flynn and two other interior designers — New York City-based Young Huh and Danielle Colding — offer advice on creating a home work area that’s both practical and inspiring.

PART OF A ROOM IS PERFECT With today’s smaller computers and wireless connections, there’s less need for a boxy desktop and connecting cables. A desk built into a wall of shelving and cabinets can often serve as a fully functioning home office.

So unless your work requires total concentration and silence, don’t give up an entire room even if you have one available.

And built-in pieces don’t have to be expensive.

“I turned dead space into a mini-home office by configuring Ikea kitchen cabinets and a laminate countertop as a tall workstation,” Flynn says. “You can assemble it all yourself and have the counter cut to size at a local home improvement store.”

Once the pieces are installed, “it looks architectural, almost like it’s always been part of the home.”

Or installing these items in a bedroom closet creates a minioffice that can easily be closed off for privacy.

In a New York City apartment, Colding opened up the wall between the living room and a small bedroom that had been used as an office. She filled one wall with built-in shelving, cabinetry and a desktop, so the now-larger living room still offered a complete workspace. And she added a Murphy bed along that wall so the room could still accommodate an overnight visitor.

Another option: Buy a “secretary,” a large piece of furniture with doors that conceal shelves and drawers.

“I love using secretaries because they have a drop-down tabletop that allows you to work, and drawers for storing things,” Huh says, “but then you can close everything up when you are entertaining or want to hide your work mess.”

GO BOLD Offices outside the home are often decorated in neutral or drab colors. But Flynn recommends bold or bright hues and fun patterns for home workspaces.

“There’s something inviting that draws you in and even excites you about getting some work done if the overall look is fun,” he says.

In a small space, white walls can help.

“All white can make any cramped ‘bonus room’ instantly feel like a light and bright home workspace,” says Flynn.

Huh says dark or intense colors also work in small rooms because they can make it feel like the walls are receding rather than crowding you.

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Photo by Sarah Dorio/Brian Patrick Flynn In this undated photo provided by Brian Patrick Flynn, this home office designed

by Flynn, with bold colors and geometric patterns brings a creative, upbeat energy to a very functional workspace.

CONSIDER MULTIPLE WORKSPACES Start with a main space in a living room or family room where you keep files and items like a printer and landline phone. Then create convenient mini-spaces elsewhere in your home with just a small work surface, a chair and charging capability.

For example, Huh suggests replacing your nightstand with a tiny desk and chair next to your bed. Include a power strip and extra charger. And don’t forget the analog option: Keep a paper and pen for scribbling down brilliant ideas that strike you during downtime or when you wake up.

In the kitchen, add a family workstation for e-mails, schedules, bills, etc.: “It ends up being the most-used area in the whole house,” Huh says. “I usually install a bulletin board or magnetic board above the work space, and a drawer to hide papers, pens and an emergency Band-Aid or two.”

Be sure each space has ample lighting, especially if you’ll be working at night.

“Layered lighting is extremely important in a work space,” Colding says. “You want a combination of overhead and task lighting.”

And, she adds, “late at night, a great desk lamp is invaluable.”

DON’T USE OFFICE FURNITURE For a desk that will be integrated into a living room or bedroom, look for pieces “that don’t look like they belong in an

office,” says Huh. “Nothing from Staples or Office Depot. For a bedroom, consider a Parsons desk or a mirrored desk, because it’s simple, and clean lines look like a vanity table.”

A streamlined desk will look great in a modern living room, but Colding says contrast can be striking: “I do veer more modern with my selections,” she says, but “there is also something to be said for mixing in a really lovely antique desk into a more modern setting.”

All three designers recommend choosing items that express your personality and delight you.

“The key to creating a good home workspace is to make that space feel as though it’s not really even meant for working,” Flynn says. “Keep it decorative and fun and practical, and you’ll never really feel like you’re ‘working’ when you’re working from home.”

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NY SCHOOL DISTRICTS Cattaraugus County

Allegany County

Allegany-Limestone Central School District 3131 Five Mile Road Allegany, NY 14706 716-375-6600

Alfred-Almond Central School District 6795 Route 21 Almond, NY 14804 607-276-2981

Cattaraugus-Little Valley Central School District 207 Rock City Street Little Valley, NY 14755 716-938-9155

Andover Central School District 31-35 Elm Street Andover, NY 14806 607-478-8491

Ellicottville Central School District 5873 Route 219 Ellicottville, NY 14731 716-699-2368 Franklinville Central School District 31 North Main Street Franklinville, NY 14737 716-676-8029 Gowanda Central School District 10674 Prospect Street Gowanda, NY 14070 716-532-3325 Hinsdale Central School District 3701 Main Street Hinsdale, NY 14743 716-557-2227 Olean City School District 410 West Sullivan Street Olean, NY 14760 716-375-8018 Portville Central School District 500 Elm Street Portville, NY 14770 716-933-7141 Randolph Central School District 18 Main Street Randolph, NY 14772 716-358-6161 Salamanca City School District 50 Iroquois Drive Salamanca, NY 14779 716-945-2403 Southern Tier Catholic School and Archbishop Walsh Academy 208 North 24th Street Olean NY 14760 716.372.8122 West Valley Central School District 5359 School Street West Valley, NY 14171 716-942-3293 Yorkshire-Pioneer Central School District 12125 County Line Road Yorkshire, NY 14173 716-492-9304

Belfast Central School District 1 King Street Belfast, NY 14711 585-365-9940 Bolivar-Richburg Central School District 100 School Street Bolivar, NY 14715 585-928-2561 Canaseraga Central School District 4-8 Main Street Canaseraga, NY 14822 607-545-6421 Cuba-Rushford Central School District 5476 Route 305 Cuba, NY 14727 585-968-1556 Fillmore Central School District 104 Main Street Fillmore, NY 14735 585-567-2251 Friendship Central School District 46 West Main Street Friendship, NY 14739 716-973-3534 Genesee Valley Central School District 1 Jaguar Dr Belmont, NY 14813 585-268-7900 Scio Central School District 3968 Washington Street Scio, NY 14880 585-593-5510 Wellsville Central School District 126 West State Street Wellsville, NY 14895 585-596-2170 Whitesville Central School District 692 Main Street Whitesville, NY 14897 607-356-3301

Pennsylvania School Districts on page

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PA SCHOOL DISTRICTS McKean County, Pa.

Potter County, Pa.

Bradford Area School District 150 Lorana Ave. P.O. Box 375 Bradford, Pa. 16701 | 814-362-3841

Austin Area School District 138 Costello Ave. Austin, Pa. 16720 (814) 647-8603

Otto-Eldred School District 143 R.L. Sweitzer Drive Duke Center, Pa. 16729 814-817-1380 Smethport Area School District 414 S. Mechanic St. Smethport, Pa. 16749-1522 814-887-5543 Kane Area School District 400 W. Hemlock Ave. Kane, Pa. 16735 814-837-9570 Port Allegany School District 87 Clyde Lynch Drive Port Allegany, Pa. 16743 814-642-2590

Coudersport Area School District 698 Dwight St. Coudersport, Pa. 16915 814-274-9480 Northern Potter School District 745 Northern Potter Road Ulysses, Pa. 16948 814-848-7506 Oswayo Valley Area School District 277 Oswayo St. Shinglehouse, Pa. 16748 814-597-7175

Cameron County, Pa. Cameron County School District 601 Woodland Ave. Emporium, Pa. 15834 814-486-4000

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