Twin Tiers Venture Out - Pennsylvania Park Guide

FREE

Summer 2016

ttventureout.com | Pennsylvania

Park Guide

Edition

A publication of The Bradford Era, Olean Times Herald and The Salamanca Press

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Contents Railroad Bridge, Warren

Penn Brad Oil Museum, Custer City

Olga Art Gallery, Coudersport

Venture Out. If there’s one thing that our region invites us all to do, it’s that. Whether one is a hunter and angler, hiker, bicyclist, kayaker or canoeist — or simply someone who enjoys seeing the sights by whatever mode of travel suffices — north central Pennsylvania always has something to offer.

From the Kinzua Dam and the Allegheny Reservoir, to the Allegheny National Forest, to the wide state forest and park lands in Potter County — and numerous points in between — the Northern Tier of Pennsylvania offers everything the outdoors and country living enthusiast could ask for.

Cherry Springs State Park, Coudersport

The newspapers that serve the region — The Bradford Era along with the Olean Times Herald and The Salamanca Press — have joined together to create Venture Out, your new guide to the beautiful summer season in the Twin Tiers.

The state line doesn’t stop Pennsylvania visitors crossing into New York — and vice versa — so Venture Out has been printed as two editions in one. Flip this publication around and you’ll find a plethora of reasons to visit your neighbors to the north, beginning with Allegany State Park and other destinations.

And Venture Out doesn’t stop with the print publication. A new website has been created, ttventureout.com, that will be updated throughout the year with stories, photos, blog posts and more. Readers and visitors will have the chance to interact.

Welcome to this beautiful and diverse region many of us are lucky to call home. Whether you’re a longtime resident or a weekend visitor, enjoy this summer season and the natural beauty of the Allegheny National Forest region — and beyond in the Twin Tiers.

Jim Eckstrom

Marilla Reservoir, Bradford

Kinzua Bridge State Park, Mt. Jewett

What’s Inside 5 10 Must See PA Attractions

19 Historic Journey - Kinzua Bridge

12 Allegheny National Forest (ANF) 24 ANF Map 17 Paddling The Allegheny

28 PA Calendar Of Events

18 Finding Yourself On The Trail On the Cover: The PA cover photo is an aerial view of the platform of the Skywalk and the tornado ruins at Kinzua Bridge State Park in Mount Jewett, PA. The photo was taken by drone by Nathan Bottorf of Aerial Imaging Services in Bradford, PA.

Executive Editor, Bradford Publishing © 2016 Bradford Publishing • Twin Tiers Venture Out Vol. 1, No. 1 • Spring/Summer 2016 All rights reserved.

No part of this publication may be reproduced by any means without written permission of the publisher. Information herein is published as a guide only, for use in 2016, and is subject to change without notice.

Twin Tiers Venture Out | 43 Main Street | Bradford, PA 16701 814-368-3173 | Visit us online at ttventureout.com

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June 5, 2016

June 11-12, 2016

Hazen Flea Market, Hazen, PA Pyler’s Buffet Lunch included $60.00

Eldora Raceway The Dream Race.

Weekend Getaway $Call for pricing details

June 22, 2016

June 25, 2016

Cirque Du Soleil - Toruk Console Energy Center Pittsburgh, PA $101.00

Lockport Locks Cruise Niagara Falls, USA areas $62.00

July 10-11, 2016

July 16, 2016

July 23, 2016

August 4-7, 2016

Philadelphia Touring, WWII Duck ride Longwood Gardens $Call for pricing details

Oil Creek & Titusville Railroad Ride WWII weekend/reenactment Box Lunch Included $78.00

New York City One Day, Your Way $72.00

August 20, 2016

August 31, 2016

Center Harbor, NH Keepsake stores, Yankee Candle Annalee Dolls, Meredith, NH $Call for pricing details

Chatauqua Belle Riverboat Chatauqua Institute, BBQ $100.00

Shaker Woods Festival Das Dutch Haus Dinner & Shops $80.00

Summer Rockin Darien Lake Def Leppard, REO Speedwagon, Tesla $191.00

August 14, 2016

Sept. 9-11, 2016

Frankenmuth, Michigan Auto Fest, Bonner's Christmas $Call for pricing details

Bradford Travel Sponsored Motorcoach Trips “Call for a FULL Listing of our 2016-2017 Tours Offered” Small deposit & easy payment plans make ALL of our trips convenient and affordable!

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Must-See

10

Attractions

Charming small towns full of history, character, and friendly people.

The area has a rich history in the oil, gas, and lumber industries.

The Allegheny National Forest spans approximately 517,000 acres.

In the Twin Tiers of Pennsylvania there is an adventure around every corner, we picked out a few favorites to get you started on your journey!

Decisions, decisions... with so much to explore and so much to do in the Twin Tiers Region of Pennsylvania, chances are you will have multiple adventures on our area. Our natural attractions, museums, and historic downtowns have been enticing visitors and residents alike for generations.

Whether your looking for an extraordinary hike, a culinary excursion, a deep look at history, or to browse artisan creations, an adventure in the Twin Tiers is guaranteed to make memories that will last a lifetime.

Here are the attractions that made our list for the Top 10 Must-See Places But don’t stop there, explore the area and find more things to do and places to see.

Wine & Spirits Tour • PA Lumber Museum • Zippo Case Museum • Cherry Springs State Park Eldred World War II Musuem • Olmstead Manor • Smethport Mansion District• Straub Brewery Penn Brad Oil Museum • Coudersport Ice Mine Connect With Us On Facebook - facebook.com/ttventureout

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You’re Bound To Get Hungry Along The Way! Make dining part of your adventure while your are traveling around the Twin Tiers of Pennsylvania. Here are five restaurants that are sure to satisfy. For more places to dine out in the region go to ttventureout.com!

15 E.L. Day Drive, Westline, PA www.westlineinn.com

WESTLINE INN Built in the 1800s, the Westline Inn provides a unique dining experience that is off the beaten parth. The inn features fine American and French cuisine served in a rustic yet elegant atmosphere. Chef Julia’s menu features classic dishes as well as house specialties.

27 Congress Street, Bradford, PA www.thebeefeatersrestaurant.com

BEEFEATERS Located in a renovated Carnegie Library, Beefeaters is in heart Bradford’s National Historic District. Famous for their quality blue ribbon beef, the restaurant offers a wide choice of entrees from both the kitchen and their famed meat bar. Beefeaters is also known for their friendly service.

423 W. Main Street, Smethport, PA 814-887-6900

HISTORIC ROUTE 6 DINER Serving all day breakfast, the Route 6 Diner also offers homemade lunches and dinners at great prices. The restaurant is home to the Hubber Burger, named after the school mascot. Make sure to leave room for homemade desserts and typical diner items like milkshakes and floats.

315 Route 59, Clarendon, PA www.docksiderscafe.com

DOCKSIDERS CAFE Offering spectacular views of the Allegheny Reservoir, Docksiders Cafe is located adjacent to Wolf Run Marina. Enjoy waterfront dining and its finest including beautiful sunsets, live entertainment on Sundays and a full menu of surf, turf, and pasta dishes.

Indoor and outdoor seating is available.

4 East 2nd Street, Coudersport, PA www.olgaexperience.com

OLGA CAFE BISTRO & ART GALLERY A trip on Route 6 would not be complete without a stop at Olga’s, where seriously good art meets seriously good food and drinks. Owner and artist Olga Snyder displays her mixed fiber arts and painting, which are available for purchase, throughout the beautiful twostory historic building.

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Wine & Spirits Tour

Enjoy a sip of the Forest with a visit to the wineries and distillery located within the Pennsylvania Twin Tiers Region. Each has that special something to offer.

Family owned and operated, Flickerwood Wine Cellars & Lounge boasts over 20 different wines from sweet to dry and a variety of fruit wines. Their gift shop offers a variety of wine themed items. For more information visit flickerwood.com.

Allegheny Cellars Winery features a tasting room and unique nature themed gift shop.

The winery features around 20 different wines that can be tasted in their comfortable “woodsy” atmosphere. For more information visit allehenycellars.com.

CJ Spirits is northwestern PA’s first craft distillery. Their spirits are hand crafted using fresh local ingredients, pure “Allegheny Mountain” spring water, and state-of-the-art distilling equipment. Their selections include white whiskey, gin, rum, and vodka. Tasting are available as well as a small menu of appetizers and sandwiches. For more information visit cjspirits.com.

PA Lumber Museum

The PA Lumber Museum highlights PA’s rich lumbering heritage and history and promotes the continuing care, management and recreational use of the state’s forests. Fully renovateed in 2015, the museum visitor center includes exhibits ranging from primitive stone tools to modern chainsaws.

There are also many interactive exhibits that allow visitors to test their lumberjack abilities.

Multiple buildings and exhibits located throughout the museum’s 160-acre property include: a replica late 19th century logging camp, a 70-ton Shay geared-locomotive, and a 1910 Barnhart log loader. In 1936 the Civilian Conservation Corps built a log cabin on the property that still stands, showcasing the talents and craftsmanship of those dedicated citizens. Also located on the property is a steam sawmill and log pond, a 1945 Brookville switch engine, and a Sustainable Forestry Trail that loops through 40 acres of forest surrounding Commissioner’s Run. The PA Lumber Museum is located in Potter Co. along US Route 6, between Galeton and Coudersport. For more information visit the museum’s website lumbermuseum.org.

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Started in the Oil Fields of McKean County...

Since 1934

Kessel Contruction, Inc Industrial, Commercial, Gas & Oil Industry, Compressor Building, Guaranteed Sound Control www.kesselco.com 8 R Twin Tiers Venture Out - Summer 2016

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Zippo/Case Museum Eldred World War II Museum Experience the story of two iconic American products at the most visited museum in northern Pennsylvania, the Zippo/Case Museum. The museum displays the histories of the world famous Zippo lighter and Case knife. Features of the museum include interactive displays, educational videos and the famous ZAC machine, a 7-foot high audio-kinetic ball machine.

Zippo was founded by George G. Blaisdell in Bradford in 1932 and has produced more that 500 million lighters. The Zippo brand extends beyond lighters and includes butane candle lighters, watches, fragrance and a robust line of heat and flame products for the outdoor enthusiast.

W.R. Case and Sons was founded in 1889 and produces the most collectible knives in the world. The museum houses the largest collection of rare Case knives.

The museum also features a large gift store where the full line of Case and Zippo products can be purchased. The museum is open 7 days a week and is free. The museum is located at 1932 Zippo Drive in Bradford. For more information visit zippo.com/zippocasemuseum.

Opened on Memorial Day in 1996, the Eldred WWII Museum is designed to attract visitors of all ages. During World War II, Eldred was the site of a British and American munitions plant that produced mortar, fuses and over 8 million bombs. Fifteen hundred people worked there, 24 hours a day from January 1942 to May 1945, supporting the war effort. The museum was built to, and is dedicated to, preserving the history of World War II. This museum features spectacular exhibits, award-winning video and a large research library.

Highlights include a M255 tank, a working submarine periscope and tank-mountain where visitors can operate radio controlled tanks and compete to conquer the fortifications. Another feature of the museum is the M551 Sheridan tank that appears to burst through the outside wall of the museum.

Special exhibits and programs are held at the museum throughout the year, including an annual town-wide Memorial Day celebration.

For more information visit eldredpawwiimuseum.com.

Cherry Springs State Park Olmsted Manor Nearly as remote and wild today as it was two centuries ago, Cherry Springs State Park, also known as Dark Skies Park, is one of the best places on the eastern seaboard for stargazing and the science of astronomy. The 82-acre state park is surrounded by the 262,000-acre Susquehannock State Forest.

Cherry Springs State Park is located on top of a mountain and the weather generally tends to be on the cool side. It can also be damp. It is recommended that you wear proper clothing and foot gear. Feel free to bring out your own blankets, lawn chairs, binoculars and telescopes when you visit the park.

If you would like to come out and enjoy the magnificent night sky at Cherry Springs and only wish to gaze for a few hours, you may do so at the Night Sky Viewing area. More serious long term or overnight stargazing and astronomy is available for a fee in the Astronomy Observation field.

Please be sure to use a red filter on your flashlight in order to preserve the darkness.

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Nestled in the woods of the Allegheny National Forest, Olmsted offers a place to get away from the hustle of everyday life and seek spiritual renewal in an atmosphere of Christian hospitality.

Olmsted is the perfect location for your personal time away or your next group retreat. Their facilities include unique overnight accommodations, meeting spaces, and beautiful grounds that are open to booking year-round.

Built in 1917 as the home of George Welsh Olmsted, a wealthy business man and Boy Scout advocate. Olmsted Manor Retreat Center has been operating since 1969, when the family of George W. Olmsted donated their family estate to the Western Pennsylvania Conference of the United Methodist Church.

Spend the night in the beautiful Tudor mansion, explore the grounds and Wildcat park, and take some time in reflection as you walk the labyrinth. Whatever your reason, now is the time to come away. For more information visit olmstedmanor.org.

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Smethport Mansion District Straub Brewery Smethport was first surveyed by Dutch land surveyors in 1807 who selected it as northwest Pennsylvania’s “most perfect” town site. By the 1880s the county seat had been propelled into economic prosperity by a combination of vast lumber assets, oil reserves, and the railroads. During this time Smethport’s Mansion District was in full construction.

Properties featured include the home of Henry Hamlin, once the wealthiest private banker in the United States, and St. Luke’s Episcopal Church, a premier example of English Gothic architecture.

The Melbury House, once used as a stopover on the way to freedom for slaves escaping to the north via the Underground Railroad, the residence of Dr. S.D. Freeman a famed surgeon during the American Civil War. The Mansion District Walking Tour brochure features a numbered map that guides you along the village streets to over 30 featured properties. You can enjoy the walking tour anytime and at your own pace. Brochures can be found in a kiosk at the McKean County Courthouse.

Straub Brewery in St. Mary’s, PA, is a designated American Legacy Brewery celebrating 140+ years of independent brewing success. The brewery was founded by Peter Straub in 1872 and is the smallest pre-Prohibition brewery still in business in the United States.

Today, it is still run by the same family as a new generation of Peter’s descendants carry-on his brewing traditions, maintaining the quality and relevance of our products and sustaining the heritage of Peter Straub.

The brewery offers tours that must be scheduled in advance.The Straub Brewery has been a favorite destination for beer lovers for decades! If you’re one of the thousands of Straub fans who have stopped by to enjoy a refreshing free Straub Beer from our Eternal Tap after you’ve finished the tour of the brewery.

The Eternal Tap is open to the public ages 21 and older.

For more information or to schedule a tour visit straubbeer.com.

Penn Brad Oil Museum Coudersport Ice Mine

In 1881, the Bradford Oil Field produced an incredible 83% of the United States total oil output; over 90,000 wells were drilled here. Located in northwestern Pennsylvania in McKean County, the oil comes from the upper Devonian Bradford Sands.

Light golden amber to a deep mossy green in color, the “Miracle Molecule” from the Bradford field is high in paraffin and is considered one of the highest grade natural lubricant crude oils in the world.

The Penn Brad Oil Museum preserves the philosophy and spirit of a historic oil community. You will experience the boom times of the world’s first billion dollar oil field. Tour an oil lease house and hear the “Wild Catting Tales” at the site of a 72 foot tall, 1890-era standard rig, then plan a walking tour along the nearby Main Street of Bradford’s National Historic District to view the eclectic architecture of the community built by the Oil Baron’s during the early 1900s.

The museum offers guided tours by oil country veterans. You will see yellow dogs and barkers, headache posts, hurry-up sticks and sucker rods.

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Closed to the public for a quarter of a century, the Coudersport Ice Mine reopened in 2014 after being full restored by its new owners.

While there are many of these Ice Mines, the one in Coudersport is the coldest cold spot known to exist east of the Mississippi River, and is the largest of its kind.

The Coudersport Ice Mine was accidentally discovered in 1894 by Billy O’Neil while he was using a divining rod to try and locate a silver mine which was thought to be somewhere in Ice mountain. When Mr. O’Neil started digging, he found layers of ice, not silver. In time, the digging continued until the shaft was 10 feet long, 8 feet wide and some 30 feet deep. The Ice Mine is located in the side of a hill completely sheltered from the sun and wind. Ice begins to form in April and is usually melted by October. Edwin Swift Balch has described the Ice Mine as a true “glaciere naturelle” or natural refrigerator.

The Ice Mine is located in Sweden Township, near Coudersport, PA.

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ALLEGHENY NATIONAL FOREST

Allegheny Reservoir from North Country Trail Near Willow Bay The scenic Allegheny National Forest, located in northwestern Pennsylvania, is a region rich with possibilities and adventure, offering four full seasons of outdoor recreation, including camping, fishing, boating, hunting, hiking, cycling, birding and all-terrain vehicle trails that draw in people from across the state and beyond.

Open to free public access year round, the forest is approximately 517,000 acres and includes land within McKean, Elk, Warren and Forest counties. More than 463,000 acres are forested; 42,000 acres are non-forest; and 11,000 acres are covered by water, primarily the Allegheny Reservoir formed by the Kinzua Dam, according to the Allegheny National Forest Visitors Bureau.

Highlights of the region include the Longhouse National Scenic Byway, Rimrock and Jakes Rock overlooks, Kinzua Beach, and more than 600 miles of multi-use motorized and non-motorized trails.

For those seeking an “artistic” angle, Allegheny National

4

TOP HOT SPOTS

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Forest Visitors Bureau Executive Director Linda Devlin said there are “an abundance” of scenic routes around that really exhibit the beautiful landscape and “allow travelers to capture the full experience” of the region’s spring, summer and fall foliage.

The Kinzua Sky Walk — reinvented from the Kinzua Viaduct — is a spectacular walkway that once again allows the public to “Walk the Tracks Across the Sky,” including a partial glass-bottomed observation deck that enables visitors to look down at the remaining towers supporting the historic structure.

Administratively, the Allegheny National Forest is divided into two Ranger Districts — one in Bradford, the other located in Marienville. Topography maps, regional information and maps

RIMROCK OVERLOOK

Rimrock Overlook offers a scenic view of Kinzua Bay, of the Allegheny Reservoir.

The overlook is a 200 foot elevation drop. Descend down through the rock down Cornplanter’s stairs.

KINZUA DAM

Built in the 1960’s the controversial Kinzua Dam formed the Allegheny Reservoir, a 12,000 acre impoundment, which spans the border between New York and Pennsylvania.

of the Forest Service roads are available at the ranger stations, along with small gift shops featuring local books, DVDs and other outdoor information. Golden Eagle passes and ATV permits can also be purchased at the stations.

The Visitors Bureau in Bradford is the official tourist promotion agency in McKean County, noted by many in the area as a valuable source of regional tourism and guidance. The Visitors Bureau offers information including free visitors guides and maps, Kinzua Sky Walk information and other local tourism and travel information to navigate the grounds and summarize the influx of activity blossoming throughout the region in anticipation of the coming seasons.

MARILLA RESERVOIR

Shared use of the watershed for recreational activity provides a nice location for fishing, hiking or canoeing.

Marilla Reservior is owned and operated by the Bradford Water Authority.

DRAKE WELL MUSEUM

In 1859 Edwin L. Drake drilled the oil well that launched the modern petroleum industry. Drake Well Museum tells the story of the beginning of the modern oil industry.

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Down The River Kayaking the Allegheny River: Fun for a Day or an Exciting Weekend When summer hits and the temperatures rise, lots of people start thinking of activities that allow fun in the sun and access to the water. For those who want an adventure that is family friendly and allows the chance to view beautiful scenery and perhaps even some wildlife, a great option in our area is to hop in a kayak. For Maryann Nolan, Proprietor at Outback Adventure in Tionesta, it is not uncommon to see around 300 to 500 people in a week during the peak season who are interested in experiencing the fun of a kayaking trip on the Allegheny River.

“This section of the river (through the Allegheny National Forest, from South Warren to Tionesta) is a Class 1, so it is very simple,” Nolan said. “It can be a day trip and you can float the whole river in the summer, or you can camp on the islands and make a weekend of it.”

Nolan explained that those looking for wildlife should try to take the “slow side,” the area of the river where the main channel does not flow. This area does get too shallow to get through in the summer, so it is important to pay attention to water levels in order to accomplish a trip through that part of the river.

Nolan noted that kayaks have gained popularity over the years, as many people seem to own them and they provide a different experience than a trip in a canoe.

There are different lengths and types of kayaks – the sit on top variety and the sit inside variety. Nolan explained that

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each type has its benefits. For those who want to get a tan or go swimming while on the river, the sit on top kayak is the better choice. Meanwhile, for those who plan to take fishing gear, travel the Allegheny in cooler weather or have another reason to opt for the more contained option, the sit inside kayaks are a better choice.

When asked, Nolan noted that canoes will never become obsolete, however, as they allow for the transportation of more equipment, like camping gear.

Nolan noted that watching the water levels is important, particularly after a dam release has occurred. For families with children, it is best to avoid trips when the river is over four feet, while at five feet, the current becomes faster than the average person can swim. For those planning a trip on a certain weekend, it is a good idea to get in touch with a local outfitter, who can let you know what the water levels are and if there are any concerns as that date draws closer.

Piper VanOrd of Allegheny Outfitters of Warren agrees with Nolan, noting that outfitters are on the river all the time and can let visitors know of any concerns or important details they may not be aware of otherwise. Allegheny Outfitters has helped people of all ages to experience the fun of the Allegheny River.

“Our youngest paddler was two-years-old and our oldest was 91 years old,” VanOrd said. “We have helped Cub Scouts and lots of other groups plan trips. People of all abilities can enjoy this family-friendly stretch of the river. The first seven miles

By JoEllen Wankel

here are an awesome stretch to learn on.”

VanOrd is referring to the stretch from below the Kinzua Dam. She explains that travelers in this area of the Allegheny leave the southern tip of one island and can usually see the northern tip of the next island. Also, there are not many creeks that enter the river in this area. VanOrd explains that after the river reaches Oil City, the make-up of the river changes and certain aspects can be more challenging.

VanOrd did mention there are a couple areas of concern in this area, including a dredged area on the right-hand side of Mead Island. However, being aware of your location and how to handle that area if you can't go around it, means you can stay calm and get through the area to continue enjoying calm water and the rest of your trip.

For those interested in renting kayaks, both Outback Adventures and Allegheny Outfitters can help get you out on the water. Meanwhile, for those trying to determine a good weekend to plan an adventure, websites like the U.S. Geological Service and the Army Corps of Engineers provide information on the water levels for the river. The USGS updates hourly, so potential travelers can access the information real time. Meanwhile, the Army Corps of Engineers provide a threeday forecast, allowing you to have an idea if the upcoming weekend may be a good time to get out on the water. This adventure is worth looking into as an add-on to the summer to-do list.

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Lost Get

to be

Found

Hiking In The Allegheny National Forest Is Good For Your Body And Mind

By Chelsea Place

BEGINNERS GUIDE

“In every walk with nature, one receives far more than he seeks,” said famous adventurer John Muir, and trekking 400 miles in the Pennsylvania Twin Tiers region in the past three years, I have found that statement to be incredibly accurate.

I believe that the bug bites, blisters, bruises, muscle aches and cramps are just a small price to pay for the immensely beautiful way you feel after completing a challenging trek. Quality time with nature and long stretches of physical activity change you, and the solitude of the forest and the beauty of the scenery changes you, in ways that I couldn’t imagine before I entered the world that exists through the trees.

Science is beginning to back up my anecdotal evidence that the benefits of hiking go far beyond the physical exercise; hiking can teach you to lead a happier, healthier and more fulfilling life.

Psychologists Ruth Ann Atchley and David L. Strayer studied the effects of a natural environment on creativity and found that spending time outdoors increases attention spans and creative problem-solving skills by as much as 50 percent. Meanwhile a study out of Stanford University’s Graduate School of Education found that walking is exponentially greater at inducing creative thinking than sitting.

A study published in the International Journal of Sports Medicine found that long distance hiking trips increase the body’s antioxidative capacity, which helps fight disease. Research has also shown that hiking has therapeutic qualities that can help combat depression, anxiety and hopelessness.

Being out in nature, away from the hectic pressures of our daily lives and all the modern technology, allows me to connect with myself and nature in a way that brings a feeling of peace and a sense of well-being to my life.

For me being out in nature, deep in the woods is a humbling experience that allows me to understand my small place in the world, helping me realize that my current problems are not as insurmountable as they may seem.

The fresh air makes me feel alive and the with every hill I climb I

START SMALL

Start with a 3-5 mile hike and add miles as you feel comfortable.

Remember to take breaks and stop to enjoy the views

BE PREPARED

Bring a small first aid kit, plenty of water, snacks and suncreen.

It is also a good idea to bring an emergency shelter, just in case.

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gain a quiet sense of accomplishment that gives me confidence and assurance that I can conquer the problems and obstacles that life throws at me.

Hiking makes me believe in and admire the beauty of the world.

With every step I can discover new and beautiful places and things that sometimes stop me in my tracks. Sometimes it is a beautiful open vista or a trickling creek, or a rock covered in moss laced with a spider’s web. I am better able to appreciate the beauty of my surroundings in my everyday life.

Connecting with nature also gives you a real sense of the vulnerability and evanescence of life. Hiking in the spring places you face to face with rebirth and growth and I cannot help but feel the energy and feel renewed. The summer is full of life and motion.

Plants mature and seed. Young animals born in the spring begin to explore. Baby birds begin to leave their nests. Hiking in the summer for me is a time to appreciate the fullness of life. Experiencing it happen before your eyes while out on the trail just makes life seem more meaningful.

The beauty and majesty of the fall colors experienced from within the canopy of the forest is a site that should be experienced by everyone.

Fall is a time to reflect and be grateful for life, as the plants begin to die off for the year and the forest opens up again to the sky as leaves fall from the trees, it is a reminder that I should live every day to its fullest.

Hiking in the winter is the most challenging, but it is also a perfect time for me plan for what I want to bloom in my life come spring. The stark white snow reminds me that I have the power to wipe my slate clean and restart my life and make for myself whatever I desire.

The woods provides a cleansing and renewing environment for me to think and plan, the sights and sounds gives me a creative energy to want to be the best version of myself. The vibrations of the world exist so strongly in the woods that I cannot help but want to be a better, more connected person, not only to nature, but to all of the people who come in and out of my life.

I hope that you too can find yourself while getting lost in the woods.

TAKE TIME

Expect to cover only about two miles per hour. The varying terrain makes hiking much different that walking on pavement.

KNOW THE AREA

BRING A PAL

Look at maps and all Hiking with a partner is trail information before a safer way to start than your hike. You can hiking solo. Guided download GPS enabled hikes are offered topographic maps to throughout the year as your smart phone too. well to help you start.

Top Trails In Allegheny National Forest

Morrison Hiking Trail Two trail loops totaling 11.4 miles. medium to difficult rating Minister Creek Hiking Trail Three trail loops totaling 7.3 miles hard difficulty rating Tracy Ridge Hiking Trail System Multiple loops totaling 33.7 miles medium to hard difficulty rating Timberdoodle Flats Trail Two trail loops total 1.4 miles easy difficulty rating 12 interpretive stops Indian Pipe Trail 7.4 mile point-to-point trail medium difficulty rating Marilla Springs Trail 3.5 mile point-to-point trail medium difficulty rating

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Tracks Across

Sky the

Reliving the historic journey of Grant at Kinzua Bridge

By Chris Mackowski

Like the crozzled bones of giants, the steel girders of the Kinzua Viaduct lie along the valley floor and up the far hillside. Once, the railroad bridge stretched across the entire gorge—some 2,050 feet—but in 2003, a tornado blew down 11 of its 20 support towers. They still rest where they fell, twisted, spent, ruined.

At 301 feet high, Kinzua Viaduct had once been the largest such bridge in the world. Completed in 1882, it took 125 men just 94 days to build it. Boosters called it “the big bridge,” and it represented such an achievement that, in November of 1883, former president Ulysses S. Grant paid a visit to see it for himself.

Now, 132 years later, in honor of Grant’s visit, my son, Jackson, and I have come out to the remains of the Viaduct to smoke a memorial cigar and walk in Grant’s footsteps.

“It was called ‘the Eighth Wonder of the World,’” I tell Jackson.

“I thought that was King Kong,” he deadpans.

Kinzua Bridge State Park, as it’s now called, is about half an hour from my sleepy hometown, but if not for a footnote, I would never have known of Grant’s visit here in the early winter of 1883.

I came across the story while researching my latest book, Grant’s Last Battle. On March 26, 1885, Grant was deposed in the fraud investigation against two of his business partners. Reading the transcript of the deposition, I came across a reference

by Grant about an occasion when he and his partners “went out to the western part of Pennsylvania in the Winter. . . .” The footnote

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made mention of a “special train trip from New York City to Rochester, N.Y.” Nothing extraordinary stands out about that, but then the next graph mentioned a correspondent from Bradford, Pa., and quoted him at some length. Bradford is the largest town in McKean County, a petroleum-rich region in northwest Pennsylvania where I’ve lived for much of my life.

Of course, I had to know more.

The wonderful folks at the McKean County Historical Society in Smethport, Pa. (the county seat) dug up the original newspapers for me so I could learn more about Grant’s brush through the area. In the meantime, I also found a brief account of the trip in Geoffrey C. Ward’s A Disposition to be Rich. Ward is the writing partner of filmmaker Ken Burns and is the descendant of Ferdinand Ward, one of Grant’s conniving partners. Disposition is Geoffrey Ward’s biography of his infamous ancestor.

Ferdinand Ward was a financial wunderkind whose investment acumen had earned him the nickname “The Young Napoleon of Wall Street.” Unbeknownst to Grant, Ward was embezzling millions of dollars from their firm through an elaborate Ponzi scheme. In May of 1884—just six months after the excursion to Kinzua—Ward and Fish would leave Grant— and hundreds of others—completely broke.

The firm’s fourth partner, Grant’s son Buck, was as oblivious of the perfidy as his father.

The four partners of Grant & Ward were the most notable dignitaries on the special rail excursion, arranged by Ward and hosted

by Bird W. Spencer, treasurer of the Erie Railroad. One of the railroad’s feeder spurs,

the Bradford, Eldred, and Cuba Railroad, had recently constructed the Kinzua Viaduct, and Spencer hoped a visit by Grant would give the bridge useful publicity; Grant and Ward, meanwhile, hoped the Erie Railroad would invest some of its funds with their firm.

“That trip, and the closer relations that grew from it between the officers of the road and General Grant, did much toward the firm of Grant & Ward becoming the financial agents of the Erie Railroad,” Ward recalled decades later in a piece he wrote for the New York Herald. “It was in this way that General Grant contributed his share to the advancement of our business, as he ever had out interests at heart and was ready and willing to do what lay in his power, though often at his own inconvenience, to help us along.”

The party left New York City’s Grand Central Station on the evening of Nov. 15, 1883, headed for a region of the Keystone State so rural that it’s still known today as “The Pennsylvania Wilds.”

“Above all, no one was to talk business,” recounts Geoffrey Ward in Disposition. “Ferd smiled as he said it, but he was deadly seriously.

Everyone aboard was involved in one way or another with Grant & Ward. Should anyone riding in that car question another about what he knew or didn’t know about the shadowy contract business, everything might collapse.”

Ward-the-historian goes on to describe Ferdinand Ward’s tireless movements from group to group, prompting conversation, guiding discussion, and steering clear of anything that might bring the house of cards tumbling. Ward managed, says the historian, “to keep any of his fellow passengers from asking

about the behind-the-scenes transactions from which all believed they were benefitting.”

The city of Bradford was “shaken from its depths and the citizens thrown into a fever of excitement” at the news of Grant’s pending arrival, The McKean County Miner reported on Nov. 16.

The Bradford Era reported that “the famous commander” was “traveling as a simple American citizen on his own business.”

Dignitaries, nonetheless wanting to ensure he was “warmly welcomed to the land of grease,” set a full itinerary: “One of the principal objects of this side excursion to Bradford is to enable the party to examine the big bridge, the magnitude of which they as railroad men will be apt to appreciate,” The Era said. Aside from that, city fathers planned to show off the Kendall refinery—“where our greasy product starts on its long journey to the seaboard”—and have an oil well torpedoed “for the benefit of the party.” They anticipated an overnight stay with Senator Emory “at his spacious residences on Congress Street” and, if possible, a concert the next day.

“It is desired that all citizens, irrespective of party, join in the spontaneous bestowal of respect to the hero of Appomattox and expresident,” the paper entreatied, “so that his welcome to the Oil region shall be another proof of Bradford’s proverbial hospitality.”

A crowd of between 1,000 and 1,500 people waited at the train station in the winter cold for the train’s arrival—and their wait stretched on and on. Every town along the route from Rochester sent dignitaries to meet Grant, slowing the progress of the train. “All

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along the line,” Ferdinand Ward recalled, “delegations were made up and would not hear of a refusal to stop that they might give the General a handshake or hear a few words from his lips.”

No sooner had we left one place than a delegation from the next would ask that he stop, and so all along the line these informal receptions were held from the rear platform of our car, when from five hundred to two thousand people would greet him with cheers and hearty enthusiasm.

I never realized more fully than I did on that trip how much this great man was loved by the people.

As the train neared Bradford, something jogged Grant’s memory. He seemed to recall being there before. One of the local dignitaries assured him, though, that he had not.

But Grant had come to McKean County before, as president of the United States, in August of 1869. He spent several days of his summer holiday with General Thomas Kane, former commander of the Pennsylvania Bucktails, fishing and horseback riding. “The President has thrown off his usual reserve here,” The McKean County Miner reported on Sept. 2, 1869, “and exhibits a vivacity of manner and freedom of conversation which would probably surprise some people.”

Grant himself declared at the time: “I have never enjoyed myself more since I was a boy, than I have this day.”

That had been at the height of summer; now, on the cusp of winter 14 years later, with an early snowfall masking the landscape, Grant had little to conjure more than vague memories for him.

Grant’s train finally pulled into Bradford at 1:30 in the afternoon, met by a tumultuous greeting undimmed by the cold.

The general appeared on the rear platform of the train “dressed in a plain business suit and overcoat of dark color and a regulation beaver hat,” a reporter recorded. “His years appear to sit lightly on him and his Scottish ancestry would lead one to think that he is good for twenty years to come. . . . His eyes wear the eagle-like expression that was so noticeable in him throughout his career in the army. . . . There was a conspicuous absence of the careworn expression that saddened his countenance during many of the grave scenes through which he passed.”

A sincerely gracious man, Grant extended his thanks to the crowd. “I would be pleased to remain with you . . . and the citizens of Bradford a few hours, but I am in the hands of General Spencer, who has charge of our private excursion,” he told them. “I am surprised that our presence is known as it was our intention when we started to out to visit the big bridge as quietly as I could.”

He nonetheless took time to shake hands with well-wishers.

“Many old soldiers with eyes dimmed with emotion pressed forward to grasp the hand of the old commander,” the reporter wrote.

The handshaking process was brought to a summary close by Ed Sutherland, the ponderous landlord of the Black Bear Hotel, who extended his massive right hand, which has only the stub of a thumb, and enfolded the General’s fingers in a giant grip. In his enthusiasm he forgot his stumpy thumb, which bored into the tender flesh of the hero and caused him to wince with pain. A local scribe noticed the crimson flush rise to the General’s cheek and heard a smothered exclamation as though he was displeased.

Awkward apologies were made. Grant tried to brush off the incident as he retreated back into his train car. In handshaking with 1,500 people, he told the reporter, he did not have time to examine the hands presented.

The train rumbled onward into the Appalachians, 15 miles to go. “No political matters were discussed on the train,” the newspaper reported, “but every possible respect was shown to the ‘Old Commander’ by both soldiers and citizens.”

Ever interested in railroads, Grant was “particularly impressed with the wonderful and extensive system of railroads in this part of the country, especially the narrow gauges, which have reached a greater stage of perfection than in any other

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section of the country.”

He also admired the scenic beauty of the Pennsylvania Wilds. “General Grant expressed a desire to fish in the Kinzua,” the reporter said, making a note to add that Grant’s “predilection for pure water may account for his refusal to partake of the champagne and other intoxicants offered to the occupants of the train.”

Grant appreciated the natural resources in other ways, too, commenting on the state’s coal and iron fields and oil territory. “Pennsylvania is one of the most wonderful states I ever saw,” Grant said.

The newspaper correspondent discovered “the proverbially close-mouthed hero, whose belief has always been in deeds, not words,” turned out to be positively loquacious.

As the train tracks stretched into the thickly forested hills, imaginations ran ahead down the tracks. The newspaper that morning had speculated what Grant might think of the “big bridge,” what he might say, what he might talk about. “General Grant, as he stands upon the great Kinzua viaduct to day, will probably recall incidents of the war of the rebellion,” the paper posited, “and wonder what he would have done had his army met such a formidable impediment on its triumphant march to Appomattox.”

Perhaps the correspondent didn’t know of High Bridge, near Farmville, Virginia, which stood along Robert E. Lee’s route of escape to Appomattox from Petersburg and Richmond. The bridge ran some 2,400 feet long—a few hundred feet longer than the structure Grant was about to visit near Bradford—and rose some 125 feet high—high enough, for sure, for soldiers of both sides. The Kinzua Viaduct, though, rose more than twice as tall.

Grant’s visit, for all its ballyhoo, did not last long. When his train arrived at “the big bridge,” Grant disembarked and, with cigar in hand, walked about 200 feet out. He “peeped over the rail into the yawning chasm,” the correspondent reported.

“Judas priest,” Grant exclaimed, “how high are we?”

The rest of the party peered “into the dark depths,” but Grant didn’t linger. Instead, he returned to the train. “If I had charge of this train,” he teased, “I would move away and scare them. I don’t think they would care about being left in these woods overnight.”

Coming from Bradford, Grant would have approached the Kinzua Viaduct from the north—but today, that section remains inaccessible because of the storm damage. Jackson and I, in our commemorative trip, have to circle around and approach from the south.

A third of the bridge still stands. A $4.5 million post-storm rehabilitation project reinforced the remaining spans and converted the railbed into a skywalk. The sheered-off end was capped with an observation deck with a reinforced glass bottom. Visitors can look over the railing at the fallen towers or straight down through the floor to the valley bottom hundreds of feet below.

To the west, the sun sinks toward the bare-treed mountains, brown and empty. From this height, it looks like a forest of porcupine quills. To the east, the long shadow of the bridge reaches up the valley, all the way, and spills upward against the next mountainside the way a wave throws itself against a breakwall. The shadow seems literally a mile long.

With cigar in hand, I walk out onto the bridge only 200 feet or so and look over the edge. Jackson looks, too. We’re not even at the bridge’s tallest point, yet the height is dizzying.

“Say it,” Jackson says. I look at him. “You’ve got to say it.”

I peer over the edge again. “Judas priest, how high are we?”

Grant returned to Bradford at 4:10 p.m. and hitched his railcar to the 3:30 special, which had been held for him. After another big crowd cheered him off as the train headed north to Buffalo, Rochester, and back to New York City. “[W]hen we returned to New York,” Ward remembered, “the General said he had enjoyed every minute of the trip.”

Jackson and I—we stay longer at the bridge. We watch

the sun, brilliant as an egg yolk, crack the horizon, and all the radiance drains from the sky. Shadows rise from the Kinzua Valley below, filling in the spaces between the dark brown tree trunks.

We arrived alone, but by the time the sun vanishes, two couples have joined us for the sunset, as has a family of five.

The three kids are small. The oldest stands on the plate glass and gapes downward while the middle child, facing him, jumps up and down to test the glass. Everything holds but my cigar smoke, which wafts off to the west.

Near the parking lot, construction continues on a new visitor center for the state park. Bird Spencer had hoped Grant’s visit would bring enough publicity to the viaduct that it would become a tourist attraction. While it did achieve worthy notoriety in its day, attracting as many as 160,000 visitors a year, only now that the bridge lies crumpled on the valley floor does it seem to merit enough funding for a visitor center. The $6.9 million project, originally slated for completion this fall, is running a little behind schedule.

The outdoor exhibits highlight the bridge’s construction and destruction, emphasizing nature’s power. Grant, once the most famous man in the world, goes unmentioned. Parts of Virginia still remember the storm he brought with him as his army swept through in 1864 and 1865, but here at the Kinzua Viaduct, it’s the storm of July 21, 2003 that gets remembered.

That date—July 21—has echoes of Grant, too. He died of throat cancer on July 23, 1885, just three days after finishing his memoirs. When Grant came to the bridge, he had less than two years to live. The Kinzua Viaduct would outlast him by 118 years, almost to the day.

The restoration project has given the bridge new purpose, but beyond the skywalk, the old railbed still cuts through the woods, running away from the bridge. The gloaming closes in.

The tracks disappear.

A $6.9 million dollar visitors center is set to open at the park this year. The building will feature classrooms, a visitor center, restrooms, and a small retail store along with interpretive programming and interactive displays on engineering, energy and the environment.

Once completed the building will be made up of two floors. There will be a lobby, receptionist area, gift shop and an exhibit showing the “Bridge Builders.” In east end of the lobby will be the offices for the park staff and administration.

Exhibits will be showcased, including flora and fauna of the state park. In addition, a wall area will feature art from the community and school groups.

Throughout the building, displays will be interactive and would detail the history of the famous Kinzua Viaduct that was built in 1882 and heavily damaged in an F-1 tornado in the summer of 2003.

In as little as 30 seconds, 11 of the 20 towers came crashing down.

One exhibit will depict the three-car train that carried coal, oil and timber, the natural resources that came from the area and were transported across the bridge.

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Calendar of Events May May 28

Bradford Area Townwide Garage Sale Sponsored by Downtown Bradford Business District Authority Call (814) 598-2646 May 28-30

Flickerfest, Flickerwood Winery

June 12

July 22-24

Walleye Tournament

Allegheny Mountain Engine & Implement McKean County Fair Smethport.

Demonstration

Willow Bay, Bradford. $120 entry fee Visit kinzua-outdoors.com

Statewide Fish-for-Free Day Residents and non-residents alike can legally fish on Pennsylvania waterways with no fishing license required. Other fishing regulations still apply Visit fishandboat.com/fishforfree.htm

June June 3-4

“Conquer the Grill” BBQ Competition Coudersport, Courthouse Square. Official Kansas City Barbeque Society (KCBS) sanctioned event Visit visitpottercounty.com/bbq June 4

God’s Country Marathon, Half Marathon and Relay Galeton. First event at 7 a.m.

Visit godscountrymarathon.com June 4

Kane Townwide Garage Sale Various garage sales throughout Kane community June 4

Public Viewing Night at Cherry Springs State Park 7:30 to 11 p.m. Opportunity to gaze into the night sky alongside 500 astronomers. Estimated 35-40 telescopes will be present Visit csspdarkskyfund.org June 10-11

Allegheny 100 Hiking Challenge Marienville to Willow Bay. Call (814) 927-5700 June 11

National Get Outdoors Day Marienville. First-time visitors and seasoned outdoorsmen alike can get outside and enjoy public lands Visit nationalgetoutdoorsday.org

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Visit mckeancountyfair.net.

Port Allegany.

Visit ameia.net

June 23-25

Penn’s Woods Jeep Jamboree USA

Aug. 18-21

Potter County Bowhunters Festival

July 23

Bradford. Trails range from mild for newer jeepers Case Collector Reunion to difficult for the seasoned driver Zippo/Case Museum, Bradford.

Visit jeepjamboreeusa.com Visit wrcase.com

Kane. Live music, cornhole tournament and more June 25-26 Visit flickerwood.com Rattlesnake Hunt May 29

Aug. 15-21

Denton Hill State Park, Coudersport.

Visit archeryfestivals.com Aug. 20-21

July 23

Elk Expo

Kids & Cancer Motorcycle Benefit Run

Benezette. Informative seminars, live music, interactive children’s exhibits and more Visit elkexpo.com

Presented by Kettle Creek Hose Company No. 1 Zippo/Case Museum, Bradford. 9 a.m. to 7 p.m.

Visit kettlecreekhoseco.com Visit kidsandcancerbenefitrun.com June 25-26

July 29

10th Annual Art In The Wilds

Adult Extreme Putt-Putt Tournament

Evergreen Park, Kane. Juried fine arts show.

Visit artinthewilds.org

Mystic Water, Limestone, NY. 4 to 10 p.m.

Benefits “Swizzy’s Cause,” mental health awareness. Hosted by YMCA To register, call (716) 925-8553

July

Potter County Fair

Bark Peelers’ Convention at Pennsylvania Lumber Museum

Millport.

Visit pottercountyfair.wix.com/index

July 4

September 3

Public Viewing Night at Cherry Springs State Park 7:30 to 11 p.m. Opportunity to gaze into the night sky alongside 500 astronomers. Estimated 35-40 telescopes will be present Visit csspdarkskyfund.org

July 31-Aug. 6

July 2-3

Galeton. Woodhick skills, log skidding, chainsaw carving demonstrations, live music and more Visit lumbermuseum.org

September

Sept. 11

Autumn Daze Car Show

August

Bradford. Over 100 trophies awarded; food and craft vendors and live music. Proceeds benefit Bradford Township Lions Club Call (814) 362-3717

Aug. 5-7

Statewide Fish-for-Free Day

Woodsmen’s Show

Residents and non-residents alike can legally fish on Pennsylvania waterways with no fishing license required. Other fishing regulations still apply Visit fishandboat.com/fishforfree.htm

Cherry Springs State Park, Galeton. Celebrates the rich lumber history of Potter County Visit woodsmenshow.com

Sept. 16-18

Bavarian Fall Fest St. Marys. Celebration of German heritage with craft and food vendors, entertainment more

Aug. 6

Willow Creek Triathlon July 8-10

IBO Triple Crown National Archery Tournament Clarendon.

Visit wccbi.org

Sept. 17

Quaker Lake, Allegany State Park.

Visit willowcreektriathlon.org

Wheel Around the Hub Smethport. Cycling race that includes variety of races from 53-mile classic to 7-mile youth race Call (814) 887-6020

Aug. 11-13

Festa Italiana

Bradford. Three days of celebrating the area communities’ rich Italian heritage. Authentic foods, kids’ games, live music and more Crabfest Westline Inn, Westline. 3 to 7 p.m. Fresh Maryland Visit visitanf.com/festa-italiana blue crabs, snow crab clusters and variety of Aug. 12-14 other fresh seafood while enjoying live music Visit westlineinn.com Mount Jewett Swedish Festival Enjoy ethnic food, music, and entertainment with a Swedish flavor.

July 19 Visit mtjewettpa.com Kinzua Lake Moonlight Paddle Kiasutha Boat Launch. 8 p.m., free or $40 to rent Aug. 14 kayak/canoe. Must attach light to boat Contact Allegheny Outfitters, (814) 723-3030 Kinzua Classic Bicycle Race Kinzua Beach.

Visit kinzuaclassic.com July 17

Sept. 17-18

Kinzua Bridge State Park Fall Festival Mt. Jewett.

Visit dcnr.state.pa.us Sept. 24-25

Fall Festival at Flickerwood Kane.

Visit flickerwood.com Sept. 30 - Oct. 2,

Falling Leaves Outdoor Show, Coudersport, Courthouse Square. Chainsaw carving and more Visit pottercountyhabitat.org

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