1 IMPACTS OF CARBON FOOTPRINT OF TEXTILE INDUSTRY Acknowledgement
I am extremely grateful to Lovely School of architecture and design, Lovely Professional University, Phagwara for providing me with an opportunity to carry out research for Dissertation, entitled “Impacts of Carbon Footprint of Textile Industry”. I take this opportunity to express a deep sense of gratitude and thanks to Ar. Gurkirandeep Kaur, Associate Professor, Department of Architecture, for supervising the research work. Without her wise counsel and guidance, it would have been impossible to complete the paper.
I am also grateful to official heads at PPCB Ludhiana, Department of Country and Town Planning Ludhiana; officials and workers of Textile Industry “X”; and MLA Bharat Bhushan Ashu.
I wish to express my indebtness towards my family and friends who have always been my source of strength and whose affection and patience enabled me to complete this research. Above all I express my deep regards to the ALMIGHTY for his blessings and spreading pure love in all kinds of the beautiful nature.
Dated: November 2017
Brahmjot Kaur
2 IMPACTS OF CARBON FOOTPRINT OF TEXTILE INDUSTRY
Contents Acknowledgement ...........................................................................................................1 Abstract ...........................................................................................................................6 Introduction .....................................................................................................................7 Background .................................................................................................................7 Aim .............................................................................................................................8 Objectives ....................................................................................................................8 Scope and parameters ..................................................................................................8 Limitations ..................................................................................................................9 Rationale and justification ...........................................................................................9 Methodology ................................................................................................................. 10 Carbon Footprint: A growing concern ............................................................................ 11 Global Warming......................................................................................................... 11 Global Warming and Textile Industry ..................................................................... 12 Carbon footprint of buildings ..................................................................................... 12 Industrial buildings ................................................................................................ 13 Textile Industry and its Carbon Footprint ....................................................................... 13 The processes involved in textile production .............................................................. 13 Factors causing high carbon footprint ........................................................................ 14 Resource utilization ................................................................................................... 15
3 IMPACTS OF CARBON FOOTPRINT OF TEXTILE INDUSTRY Energy consumption .............................................................................................. 15 Pollution ................................................................................................................ 16 Other processes .......................................................................................................... 16 Literature Study ............................................................................................................. 17 Terminology .............................................................................................................. 17 Zero carbon and Carbon neutralizing techniques ........................................................ 18 Carbon credits ........................................................................................................ 18 Carbon footprint mitigation .................................................................................... 18 Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) ................................................................................ 19 Role of an architect .................................................................................................... 20 Textile industries- processes and impacts ................................................................... 21 Textile industries in Ludhiana, Punjab ....................................................................... 22 Potential of the city ................................................................................................ 22 Opportunities for low-carbon textile building design in the city.............................. 23 Leading textile producers in city ............................................................................ 23 Major CF producers- Large scale industries or small scale?.................................... 24 Present scenario of industry towards sustainable and green buildings in the city..... 24 CPCB and PPCB works ............................................................................................. 25 Pollution analysis data by the authorities ................................................................ 25 Efforts by the authorities ........................................................................................ 26
4 IMPACTS OF CARBON FOOTPRINT OF TEXTILE INDUSTRY Response action by the government and pollution board of the city ........................ 26 Standards for discharge of effluents from textile industry ........................................... 28 National Ambient Air Quality Standards .................................................................... 29 Special building techniques for reducing carbon footprint .......................................... 30 Corporate social responsibility (CSR) Report ............................................................. 31 Case studies ................................................................................................................... 32 Vardhman Group ....................................................................................................... 32 Water ..................................................................................................................... 32 Energy ................................................................................................................... 33 Hazardous waste handling ...................................................................................... 34 Vardhman Yarns and Threads Ltd.,............................................................................. 35 Chandigarh Road, Ludhiana ....................................................................................... 35 Sources of pollution and wastes ............................................................................. 35 Analysis and inferences ......................................................................................... 36 Gujarat Eco-Textile Park ............................................................................................ 36 Analyzing the effects and causes of textile production ................................................... 37 Water and chemicals .................................................................................................. 37 Air pollution .............................................................................................................. 38 Solid waste generation ............................................................................................... 38 Inferences ...................................................................................................................... 39
5 IMPACTS OF CARBON FOOTPRINT OF TEXTILE INDUSTRY Conclusion .................................................................................................................... 41 References ..................................................................................................................... 42
6 IMPACTS OF CARBON FOOTPRINT OF TEXTILE INDUSTRY Abstract Every activity of humans is contributing to the amount greenhouse gas (GHG) quantity present in the environment. These GHGs are the cause of global warming and the deteriorating condition of the earth. Each human and its activities contribute to the gradual increase of global warming causes. This can be accounted as carbon footprint. Calculation, study and analysis of carbon footprint leads us to the quantitative and qualitative assessment of the impacts of the processes on the environment, human health, ecology and socio-economic factors. Out of all the products being manufactured and used by the consumers, textiles are one such product which are of utmost importance and daily necessity to the humans. Textile industry makes up 4% of nation’s Gross Domestic Product (GDP) and 14% of total Index of Industrial Production (IIP). Also, fabric is the daily need of individual in form of garments, bedsheets, towels, etc. These are the reasons that often the carbon footprint, environmental impacts and pollution caused by this industry is neglected and not studied. Ineffective use of raw materials, energy, water and other resources are native to this industry. Carbon neutral and zero carbon buildings are the new trends of architecture which need to be put into this industry so as to reduce the carbon footprint of the industry from cradle to grave. Moreover, effects of the processes carried out can be neutralized by carbon offsetting and in-setting techniques and by imposing various architectural design strategies techniques for the same.
Keywords: greenhouse gas, carbon footprint, textiles, carbon offsetting and neutrality, zero carbon buildings
7 IMPACTS OF CARBON FOOTPRINT OF TEXTILE INDUSTRY Introduction Background Carbon footprint is a globally growing concern. It not only affects the environment and ecology but also poses a threat to human existence. It gives the equivalent amount of the impact which a person or any activity linked to it pose on the environment, living beings, and the environment. Industries have always been a sore to the eye when it comes to the impacts of different activities on the environment. With continuous efforts of various environmental groups and NGOs, government and public awareness, carbon footprint is emerging as a major concern among industrialists these days but the textile industry is lacking to cope up with tends of green practices. Textile processing units range in scale from cottage industries to large industrial units. Also, this industry consumes resources from wide variety of other industries, like agriculture, transportation, dyes and chemicals, etc. With wide variety of processes, raw materials and resources involved, the industry happens to pill up the earth with pollution and wastes. For the waste generation reduction, proper utilization of the raw materials and resources and to reduces pollution and impacts on human health, environment and ecology, new sun had risen with the more concern into the field of sustainability and carbon footprint reduction by the textile industrialists and other organization concerned toward this industry. Regarding the same, government has implied various strategies and laws like common treatment plants, rainwater harvesting, waste water reutilization techniques, CSR report generation, bio-remediation plants etc.
8 IMPACTS OF CARBON FOOTPRINT OF TEXTILE INDUSTRY Aim To study the strategies and techniques to reduce the carbon footprint of a textile unit as a result of the analysis of the carbon footprint production and its impacts.
Objectives •
Analyzing the areas of concern for architect/designer
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Review the literature regarding the textile industrial units
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Study the carbon footprint- sources, quantity, impacts, reduction
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Study the present practices for sustainable design
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Present architecture and materials used in constructing a unit
Scope and parameters •
Giving a clear picture of the pollution caused by the industry and its impacts which leads to high carbon footprint
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Raising the concern among the stakeholders about the impacts of the present scenario of the industry and the need for a green and sustainable building
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Study the material and architectural practices which can help reduce the sources and impact of the carbon footprint
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Analyzing the policies and norms implemented by the stakeholders like CPCB, UNIDO, UBA/BREF, NPC
9 IMPACTS OF CARBON FOOTPRINT OF TEXTILE INDUSTRY Limitations •
The research does not deal with calculations of carbon footprint of various processes and activities
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Due to confidential reasons, name of the industry which was approached for live study cannot be revealed
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The research is limited to the production units and neither to the post-production, like distributing, storage nor to the pre-production processes like agriculture
Rationale and justification In one of the recent studies it has been presented that the India is among top 5 producers of textiles and is second largest exporter of textiles. (Atul Ltd, Valsad, Gujarat, 2012) This picture proves why the pollution caused by the industry is of great concern. Water and energy are the main resources consumed by the industry, yet the consumption and utilization is inefficient. With rapid increase in population, demand for textile production is increasing at a high pace. Thus, the pollution caused and the wastes generated are increasing. For this government, environment groups and such groups are seen as stakeholders to frame and implement policies to reduce pollution and waste generation, and nothing much can be done on part of the “Industrial Unit Architecture”- as said by most of the architects. The statement can be flipped that the architects play a vital role in analyzing the processes of the textile industrial and materials used, from cradle to grave, and offsetting the impacts and the carbon footprint through architectural strategies like those of a green building, LEED and UNIDO guidelines etc.
10 IMPACTS OF CARBON FOOTPRINT OF TEXTILE INDUSTRY Methodology
Introduction to topic 1. Carbon footprint and its growing concern 2. Carbon footprint study w.r.t textile industry
Literature study 1. Terminology 2. Textile industries' study in context of Ludhiana city 3. CPCB and PPCB works and guidelines 4. Inititives by government at national level and in other states/cities 5. Carbon footprint reduction and mitigation strategies 6. Material study
Case Studies
Analysis and Inferences
Conclusion
11 IMPACTS OF CARBON FOOTPRINT OF TEXTILE INDUSTRY Carbon Footprint: A growing concern The phrase 'carbon footprint' has emerged the latest environment terminology to be used frequently in the media. Whether you are environmentally challenged or environmentally savvy, chances are you would probably not be aware that unlike footprints of a more mundane variety a carbon footprint is rather weighty stuff. For instance, the 'carbon footprint' of that fancy T-shirt you are wearing is estimated to be around 6kg i.e. around 20 times its own weight! (domain-b, 2009) But the question is does people know what a carbon footprint is? Carbon footprint (CF) has a huge impact in ones lives but is yet unknown to huge mass. A carbon footprint is an estimate of the climate change impact of activity – such as making a product, living a lifestyle or running a company. (Clark, 2012). CF is calculated not just the carbon dioxide emissions but also other GHG emissions which warm up the environment, and all summed up together are known as a single entity carbon dioxide equivalent (CO2). The food we eat and its production, bike we ride on, baths, use of gadgets, production and use of paper, clothes we wear, house we live in, offices we occupy, furniture we use etc., all have a chain of processes from their production to processes and to consumption and the same for the raw materials used in such events. At each step, an amount of GHG emissions are produced and released to the atmosphere.
Global Warming The atmospheric conditions have worsen over years. This is the result of the human activities and the irresponsible handling of the nature, which has caused warming of atmosphere,
12 IMPACTS OF CARBON FOOTPRINT OF TEXTILE INDUSTRY leading to deterioration of Earth. This warming of the atmosphere is coined as Global Warming and is result of the Greenhouse Gas emissions. Large carbon footprints deplete resources on large and small scales, from a country’s deforestation activities to one home’s increased use of air conditioning. The more those with large carbon footprints use resources, the more greenhouse gases increase and spur further climate change. (Jaines, 2017) Global Warming and Textile Industry Environment is in all ways, directly or indirectly, affected by the activities one perform, as in one way or the other those activities require consumption of fossil fuels- supreme producer of GHG. Be it the food we eat, vehicle we ride or the clothes we wear, everything has caused GHG emissions. To be specific, industries are one of the major producers of GHGs. In fact, the modern textile industry is one of the biggest sources of greenhouse gases, given the myriad processes and products that go into the making of any item of clothing. (domain-b, 2009)
Carbon footprint of buildings Construction of buildings, production of building materials, transportation and other processes involved leave a huge carbon footprint behind. This sector alone constitutes about 40% of the total GHG production. Thus, this sector has the most potential for the GHG mitigation. Industrial sector is leading in GHG emissions production. UHI effect, carbon dioxide production, GHG emissions, and thus the carbon footprint is huge of an industry, as compared to residential, commercial and transportation sector.
13 IMPACTS OF CARBON FOOTPRINT OF TEXTILE INDUSTRY Industrial buildings Other than construction of the building, carbon footprint of industries is high due to following factors also: •
Transportation of materials
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Processes involves use of chemicals
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Inefficient utilization of water and raw materials
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Improper disposal of waste water, solid wastes, polluted air etc.
Textile Industry and its Carbon Footprint Fabrics have been the elephant in the room for too long. Do we overlook them because they are almost always used as a part of a finished product, such as sheets, blankets, sofas, curtains, and of course clothing? Today’s textile industry is one of the biggest sources of greenhouse gasses on Earth, due to the huge size and scope of the industry as well as the many processes and products that go into the making of textiles and finished textile products. (Wordpress, 2009) The processes involved in textile production Mainly 5 stages are involved in the textile production: •
Preparation of fiber- 1. Natural 2. Manmade- Synthetic and cellulosic This process consumes- machinery, water, chemicals, hot air, heat and energy Pollution produced- solvent residues, wastewater, off-gas
•
Spinning- Fiber to yarn process This process consumes- oil, lubricants, water, machinery Pollution produced- wastewater, off-gas
14 IMPACTS OF CARBON FOOTPRINT OF TEXTILE INDUSTRY •
Weaving and knitting- Yarn to textile process This process consumes- oils, machinery, water, hot sizing liquor Pollution produced- wastewater, solid waste, air pollutants
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Coloring and finishing of textiles This process consumes- chemicals, dyeing auxiliaries, machinery, water, heat Pollution produced- wastewater, off-gas, air pollutants
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Garmenting by cutting and stitching This process consumes- machinery, energy Pollution produced- air pollutants, solid waste, material wastage (German Cooperation DEUTSCHE ZUSAMMENARBEIT, 2015)
Factors causing high carbon footprint •
Vast majority of fibers produced are synthetic
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Conventional cotton is also heavily harmful to the environment, due to use of pesticides and fertilizers in large amounts in its production
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Dyeing and bleaching of fabrics involve chemicals, energy and huge amount of water
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Usually the products, un-finished and finished, are transported along long distances across the world, within a nation or within cities
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Wet finishing processes use huge amounts of water and energy, often inefficient utilization of water, energy and resources is seen
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To keep pace with modern trends and designs, often raw materials are wasted
15 IMPACTS OF CARBON FOOTPRINT OF TEXTILE INDUSTRY Resource utilization The textile industry is one of the largest consumer of fresh water and energy. A large amount of water is used in almost all the processes of textile production, and also in the prerequisite processes like agriculture. And same is the scenario in energy consumption.
Fig: Total energy input in a textile unit (Wordpress, 2009)
Most of the processes are done at small scale units, run by illiterate or less aware people, which leads to wastage and inefficient consumption of resources and raw materials. Also, the trends have changed from natural fibers to synthetic fibers, which utilize more chemicals and inorganic substrates and cannot be decomposed, thus higher carbon footprint. Energy consumption •
thermal energy required per meter of cloth is 4,500-5,500 Kcal and
•
electrical energy required per meter of cloth is 0.45-0.55 kwh
This translates into huge quantities of fossil fuels – both to create energy directly needed to power the mills, produce heat and steam, and power air conditioners, as well as indirectly to create the many chemicals used in production. (Wordpress, 2009)
16 IMPACTS OF CARBON FOOTPRINT OF TEXTILE INDUSTRY Pollution The textile processing uses a ton of chemicals, most of which are harmful to health of both humans and animals. These chemicals dissolve in water (termed as waste water), become a residue in the fabric we use or evaporate to the environment. These cause a type of health problems and diseases, by inhaling polluted air, consuming toxic water or use of chemical treated fabric. Waste water is the major result of the pollution causing processes. Decreasing availability of consumable water and producing large amount of waste water is the threat to human existence. It the need of the to understand, be responsible and take initiative to consume water efficiently, recycle and reuse water, practice zero water waster processes and preserve and recharge ground water.
Other processes Agriculture, transportation, electricity production, chemicals production and other such industries are also linked to textile industry. These sectors also use water, energy, fossil fuels, and other resources from nature. Not to forget, these sectors are also big contributors of GHG emissions and do have a specific carbon footprint. Hence, all gets summed up into the textile industry, making it the biggest sector to produce wastes and pollution, utilize resources and affect environment significantly.
17 IMPACTS OF CARBON FOOTPRINT OF TEXTILE INDUSTRY Literature Study Terminology 1. Carbon footprint (CF) is an estimate of the climate change impact of activity – such as making a product, living a lifestyle or running a company. (Clark, 2012). CF is calculated not just the carbon dioxide emissions but also other GHG emissions which warm up the environment, and all summed up together are known as a single entity carbon dioxide equivalent (CO2). 2. A greenhouse gas, abbreviated GHG, is a gas that can absorb infrared radiation in the atmosphere. As these gases take in infrared radiation, they trap heat within the troposphere, the lowest layer of the atmosphere. In turn, this will increase surface temperatures, a phenomenon known as the greenhouse effect. (Cousineau, 2008) 3. Carbon offset or carbon credit is the way to reduce the GHG emissions produced, completely, or to reduce the impact of the activity, so as to achieve carbon neutrality. It allows the stakeholders to opt for practicing social and environmental measures in case the GHG emissions produced by them are unavoidable and non-reducible. There has been a shift from mere plantation to engaging into social beneficiary affairs. 4. Carbon neutrality is the term for all the activities or actions one does to reduce the CO2e equal to the amount one produces. 5. All of the energy used at each step of the process needed to create that fabric is known as embodied energy and it is sum total of the energy required to produce the fiber and yarn/ filament as well as to weave those yarns/ filaments into fabric.
18 IMPACTS OF CARBON FOOTPRINT OF TEXTILE INDUSTRY Zero carbon and Carbon neutralizing techniques Carbon credits Carbon Credit is a type of a tradable greenhouse gas emission reduction unit. It is in reality "a certificate showing that a government or company has paid to have a certain amount of carbon dioxide removed from the environment". (Atul Ltd, Valsad, Gujarat, 2012) The Credits can be divided into two parts; Carbon Offset Credits and Carbon Reduction Credits as given in Plate-1 and are as follows: •
Carbon Offset Credits consist of clean forms of energy production, solar, wind, hydro and biofuels. The reduction amount, in tons of CO2, becomes the equivalent amount of credits earned.
•
Carbon Reduction Credits consists of the collection and storage of carbon through bio-sequestration through projects such as the eCO2 Forests Global Forestry Plan or through reforestation, forestation, ocean and soil collection and storage efforts. (Atul Ltd, Valsad, Gujarat, 2012) The amount of CO2 removed or absorbed from the atmosphere in tons is the equivalent to the amount of carbon credits generated by the particular project. (Prabhjot Kaur, 2012)
Carbon footprint mitigation A worldwide paradigm shift toward cleaner and greener processes is already underway and textile industry can no longer afford to remain a mute spectator if wants to emerge as a significant player in the global market. Only a systematic approach including a continuous improvement process reduces the carbon footprint of textiles. (Mehta, 2015) The methodology to be followed is to first identify the embodied energy, which is linked to directly to carbon footprint. Through this, size of carbon footprint can be determined and hence,
19 IMPACTS OF CARBON FOOTPRINT OF TEXTILE INDUSTRY the strategies, like technological developments, better process and product management, changed Green Public or Private Procurement (GPP), carbon capture, consumption strategies, and others, to be implemented can be devised. To create new green paradigm the textile and apparel industry needs to adopt 3R Concept, i.e. Reduce, Reuse and Recycle. •
Use of natural light to serve most of the illumination needs, upgrading the lighting systems, installing of heat recovery plants
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Develop energy efficient in-house weaving and other equipment
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Efficient use of energy sources to generate water temperature and for the drying and finishing of textiles, as well as environmental control to include facility heating, cooling and lighting
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Methods for transporting textiles to use areas, as well as those used by the labor force to get to and from work should be considered in order to reduce CF.
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Low-carbon manufacturing programs and carbon accounting in factories, carbon footprint calculation projects, benchmarking energy consumption across the textile and apparel supply chain are few of the strategic measures required.
Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) A systematic set of procedures for compiling and examining the inputs and outputs of materials and energy and the associated environmental impacts directly attributable to the functioning of a product or service system throughout its life cycle. (https://www.gdrc.org/uem/lca, n.d.)
20 IMPACTS OF CARBON FOOTPRINT OF TEXTILE INDUSTRY
Fig: The carbon footprint indicates all GHG emissions along the whole life cycle
Role of an architect •
Net zero energy building and climate friendly building- It is the role of an architect to offer and convince the client to opt for energy efficient and climate friendly architectural materials, techniques and design. Passive design techniques help reduce the dependency of the building on active means for lighting, ventilation and indoor air quality. This helps reducing or keeping the carbon footprint to minimal quantity.
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Sustainable architecture- This is the best way to reduce the carbon footprint of a building and its impact on environment. Use of locally available materials, green practices, water conservation, passive design strategies, building orientation E-W, use of recycled and recyclable materials, use of renewable resources like solar, wind and biogas energy.
•
Understand the processes, materials and resources used, waste generated and their impact on environment can help an architect to opt for the strategies favorable for carbon offsetting, without hindering the industrial processes.
21 IMPACTS OF CARBON FOOTPRINT OF TEXTILE INDUSTRY •
Energy sources- Design the building so as to gain max benefit from available renewable resources and cut on the need for conventional sources. Bio gas plants, wind and solar power plants are alternatives to thermal and nuclear power plants.
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Make the client aware and convinced to opt for low-flush toilets, energy efficient light fixtures, rainwater harvesting set up irrespective of the size of the project, recycle and reuse of water, locally available building materials instead materials to be transported through large distances etc
Textile industries- processes and impacts This industry is not just about producing fabrics and apparels but is spread much larger field. For a simple white cotton shirt to be manufactured and sale, it involves a bag full of processes. And with each process, the carbon footprint associated with that shirt increases
Fig: CF of the white long shirt is 10.75 kg CO2e, 50 times the net weight (Source- systain consulting)
22 IMPACTS OF CARBON FOOTPRINT OF TEXTILE INDUSTRY
Fig: Manufacture implies an emission-level of 3.0 kg CO2e per functional unit (Source- systain consulting)
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Approx 2/3 of the carbon emissions are caused by electricity, 1/3 by heating processes
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A major part of the electricity is generated on site (gas generators)
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High proportion of natural gas as source of energy
• Textile industries in Ludhiana, Punjab Amritsar, Ludhiana and Phagwara are the textile production centers of Punjab. Wholesalers, retailers and consumers in the nation are served by these three centers. Ludhiana is famous for its woolen knitwear and Amritsar for powerloom industry. Potential of the city The Ludhiana city is an industrial hub with textile and garments as one of the major productions. The city had always been open to the new trends be it be fashion, food, technologies, or organic and sustainable products. •
Of the total industrial production of Punjab, textile industry accounts for 19% and contributes about 38% of the total exports from the State
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High per capita income in the region is an attractive market for readymade garment
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Access to large domestic markets
23 IMPACTS OF CARBON FOOTPRINT OF TEXTILE INDUSTRY •
Potential for yarn exports to neighboring countries- Bangladesh, Pakistan, China
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Availability of finances, machinery, labor, resources, raw materials, land
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Punjab accounts for 14% of the total cotton yarn production in India and is one of the leading exporters of yarn, hosiery and ready-made garments
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Punjab has a large base of apparel and design professionals due to the presence of leading design institutes such as the Northern India Institute of Fashion Technology (NIIFT), Mohali
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The South Western region of the State, comprising of Mansa, Muktsar, Bathinda and Faridkot (in the Malwa belt), is the main cotton producing area in Punjab
Opportunities for low-carbon textile building design in the city •
City is developing under the Smart City Mission
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People are becoming aware of the consequences and impacts of the conventional building construction techniques and materials, conventional product production, insufficient use of resources, improper waste disposal etc.
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Introduction of strategies and guidelines along with environmental laws by the government and their strict enforcement
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Industrialists have realized the relation between low-carbon techniques and the lower costs
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Consumers are shifting from mere fashion to organic methods along with trending fashion
Leading textile producers in city •
Vardhman
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Nahar Group of Companies
24 IMPACTS OF CARBON FOOTPRINT OF TEXTILE INDUSTRY •
Trident Group
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Oswal Group
Major CF producers- Large scale industries or small scale? In the city, most of the textile production work is done in small scale industries. The areas like Sunder Nagar, Purana Bazar, Jagat Nagar, Daresi, Madhopuri, Shivpuri etc are flooded with such industries. The processes of spinning, yarning and dyeing is mostly done, individually in small scale industries and combined in medium to small scale industries. Industrial units for brands like Vardhman, Nahar and Oswal, have all these processes going under one roof. The inefficiency in handling raw materials, consuming energy and resources, disposing off wastes and maintain the standard working conditions is native to this industry but is mostly seen in worse conditions in small to medium scale industries, rather than large scale industries. Also, large scale industries have their own effluent treatment plant (ETP), energy generation plants, often, and other practices like plantation, rainwater harvesting, waste water reuse, maintenance of CSR etc. But this lacks in small and medium scale industries. This proves that often the small and medium scale industries lead in having higher carbon footprint.
Present scenario of industry towards sustainable and green buildings in the city The industrialists and the architects designing the industrial buildings were not concerned about the carbon footprint of the processes involved in the industry and in the construction and post construction working of the building.
25 IMPACTS OF CARBON FOOTPRINT OF TEXTILE INDUSTRY But now with the growing global concern about the carbon footprint, global warming and the impacts on human and environment, the design approach of the architects and the project completion process approach of industrialists is changing considerably. New building designs of industries are being incorporated with techniques like solar power utilization, rainwater harvesting etc. for reduced carbon footprint and the older buildings are getting retrofitted with such techniques.
CPCB and PPCB works The following information is as per the data collected during surveys in industries and in the PPCB department, Ludhiana. Pollution analysis data by the authorities The Textile industries are very complex in nature as far as varieties of products, process and raw materials are concerned. During production, the cloth has to pass through various processes and chemical operations like sizing, desizing, scouring, mercerising, bleaching, dying, printing, and finishing. In a textile industry, a number of dyes chemicals and auxiliary chemicals are used to impart desired quality in the fabrics. High concentration or BOD, COD, TDS and alkalinity, makes the wastewater alkaline in nature. It can cause environmental problems unless it is properly treated before disposal. The industry also generates air pollution. Processing of fibres prior to and during spinning and weaving generates dust, lint etc. which degrades working environment in the industry. Dust may cause respiratory diseases in workers. A chronic lung disease is commonly observed among workers exposed to cotton, flax and hemp dust. Besides this, there are a number of process operations including spinning weaving that produce noise to the tune of 90 dB (A)
26 IMPACTS OF CARBON FOOTPRINT OF TEXTILE INDUSTRY Efforts by the authorities •
The industry specific standards for textile industries are well stated with regular amendments under the Environment (Protection) Act, 1986 which are to be compiled by the unit.
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The industries are being persuaded to install necessary pollution control measures.
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A comprehensive industry documents had been published by CPCB, to assist the industries, stakeholders and regulatory agencies.
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CETP- For small industries operating in clusters, the scheme 'Common effluent treatment plant' (CETP) is being enforced. Under the scheme, grant upto 50% of the cost of the CETP is provided by state and Central Government.
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Eco Mark Scheme- CPCB has developed criteria for eco-labeling of textile materials and the same is being executed by BIS
Response action by the government and pollution board of the city Working on the city level, the government has collaborated with the city’s pollution board to implement and impose certain rules and regulations to cater the impacts as well as the gradual increase in pollution by the industry. Some of the actions taken are•
CETP- Common Effluent Treatment Plants for small industries and individual effluent treatment plants for larger industries
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Bioremediation plants- Bioremediation plants have been set up to treat the canalBuddha Nalah- water
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Rainwater harvesting set ups- Each industry was imposed with the rule for setting up the rainwater harvesting plants at their sites. But due to lack of awareness and
27 IMPACTS OF CARBON FOOTPRINT OF TEXTILE INDUSTRY negligence, labour and the owners were allowing percolation of this harvested water without any treatment, and also used the first pour. Hence, this rule failed due to lack of implementation. •
Plantation and green roofs- Most of the industries have sheds of GI sheets and are also sloped roofs. This acts as an excuse for not opting for green roofs and terrace plantations. Also, most of the industrial set ups are on a small site, vacant spaces for plantation on the site is not an option.
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Air quality control- So far no such initiative has been taken to improve the indoor air quality and also to treat the air being released in the environment, except for chimneys with filters to treat smoke. But large industries do have individual APCs to control indoor air quality.
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Awareness about reuse of wastewater into gardening, toilets, car washing, etc. to opt for energy efficient devices, solar plant set up, use of low-flush toilets etc.
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It has been made mandatory to maintain the air quality as per standards given by the CPCB and standards for waste water before discharging into water bodies.
28 IMPACTS OF CARBON FOOTPRINT OF TEXTILE INDUSTRY Standards for discharge of effluents from textile industry (Environment (Protection) Rules, 1986, in Schedule-I)
(Source- CPCB) S.NO.
INDUSTRY
PARAMETER
STANDARD (applicable for all modes of disposal*)
6
All integrated textile units, units of cotton/ woolen/ carpets/ polyester, units having printing/ dyeing/ bleaching process or manufacturing and garment units
TREATED EFFLUENTS
pH Suspended solids Color, P.C.U (Platinum Cobalt Units) Bio-chemical oxygen demand (3 days at 27ยบC) (BOD3) Oil and grease Chemical oxygen demand (COD) Total chromium (as Cr) Sulphide (as C) Phenolic compounds (as C6H5OH) Total dissolved solids inorganic (TDS) Sodium absorption ratio (SAR) Ammonical nitrogen (as N)
Maximum concentration values in mg/l except for pH, color, and SAR
6.5-8.5 100 150 30 10 250 2.0 2.0 1.0 2100* 26* 50
29 IMPACTS OF CARBON FOOTPRINT OF TEXTILE INDUSTRY National Ambient Air Quality Standards Air (Prevention and Control of Pollution) Act, 1981
(Source-CPCB)
30 IMPACTS OF CARBON FOOTPRINT OF TEXTILE INDUSTRY Special building techniques for reducing carbon footprint Some materials and techniques which are lesser known to people and architects which are actually useful in carbon offsetting and creating a sustainable building and environment. Some of the materials and techniques can be listed as•
Hemp- It is a material banned due to its narcotic and psychological effects. But it is useful in construction as it is a sustainable material. It grows quickly, has insulation properties and Hempcrete is a durable hemp reinforced concrete. But it can be used for small structures only.
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Titanium oxide treated paints- The paints which have titanium oxide as an additive, they work not only as coats on wall but also act as air purifying agents.
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Steel channels and bars made from recycled and treated steel scrap.
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Fly ash bricks are also an alternative. They are more durable and sustainable than conventional bricks.
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Self-cleaning aluminum module- A company called Alcoa, came up with aluminium panels that are self-cleaning. If such panels are used for industrial sheds, it would require little maintenance and if coated with titanium dioxide, they would also clean its surroundings by absorbing the pollution and smog.
•
Pollution eating façade modules- Titanium dioxide in the module is used to fight pollution, it is the technology which is activated by daylight. It uses much less amount of naturally occurring UV light and humidity to reduce air pollution efficiently into a harmless amount of water and carbon dioxide. Coated tiles when positioned or when the polluted air hits the surface of the module, the tiles break down and neutralize nitrogen oxide and volatile organic compounds directly when
31 IMPACTS OF CARBON FOOTPRINT OF TEXTILE INDUSTRY they are generated. The module is designed so as to capture most of the light and air in it but also be aesthetically pleasing. •
Smog eating concrete- Developed by an Italian company, the concrete is selfcleaning but also has capability to purify its surroundings depending upon the site climatic conditions and the exposed surface area.
•
Green walls- This is one of the best method to make a paradigm shift to cleaner environment. This is not only eco-friendly but aesthetically pleasing also.
Corporate social responsibility (CSR) Report It is the report of the activities and initiatives taken by the industrialists, businessmen and organizations to provide economic, social and environmental benefits to all the stakeholders. It included initiatives likeProviding medical facilities and check up to their workers and their families, working on some social issues like water and electricity shortage or no supply in villages, providing education facilities to financially challenged, buying a piece of land and changing into a plantation are, etc. It not only increases the economic value of an organization but also helps in carbon offsetting, gaining strong social image and being in the good books of people and government.
32 IMPACTS OF CARBON FOOTPRINT OF TEXTILE INDUSTRY Case studies Vardhman Group The Vardhman Group has integrated sustainability into the business since the year 2000. They have been focused on prevention and control of water wastage and air, noise & land pollution. To create a road map for this initiative, they have developed the “Vardhman Environmental Sustainability Directions” for the Group. The Vardhman Group strives to minimize the negative impact on the environment by applying innovative thinking to every step of manufacturing process and building eco-friendly practices in daily processes. This results into making more from fewer resources and minimise waste in every form. They attempt to contribute to a better environment by reducing water consumption, minimising wastage & using renewable energy resources over conventional ones. Water The group is working to improve the water efficiency and have succeeded in bringing down the water consumption by a staggering 50 percent in spinning operations. They have metering systems across the water distribution network and corporate EHS team regularly monitors the metering system. •
Water saving measures: a) Designated a water efficiency coordinator. b) Developed a mission statement and a plan c) Educated and involved employees in water efficiency d) Adopted Equipment Changes – high efficiency plumbing fixtures, appliances and other requipment yield substantial savings on water.
33 IMPACTS OF CARBON FOOTPRINT OF TEXTILE INDUSTRY •
Water recharging: The Vardhman Group is focused on recharging maximum rain water in to the ground since 2005. They have set up 48 Rain Water Harvesting Systems (RWHS) within premises. Rain water is directed from roof tops through channels and then collected in a collection pit with filter. Through this, the water is recharged into the ground through bore holes. Every year they recharge 40,000 KLs of water.
•
Wastewater reuse: The textile industry is inherently water intensive and therefore waste water generation is considerably high. However, at the Vardhman Group investment is done into the best treatment technology to make waste water reusable & recyclable. As of today, the Group has 8 Effluent Treatment Plants (ETPs) of different capacities and 10 Sewage Treatment Plants (STPs) dedicated to making waste water reusable.
•
Water reutilization i.e. zero liquid discharge: The Vardhman Group has set up two Zero-liquid-discharge plants of capacity 400 KLD each. They use RO systems to clean and reuse our entire wastewater back into the manufacturing process. Also, the treated water is used for watering of Green belts. The gardening system is completely powered by treated waste water.
Energy Energy conservation implies reducing energy consumption at the organisational level. Energy conservation differs from efficient energy use, which refers to using less energy for a constant service. • Optimizing energy conservation: a) Set up of a facility for monitoring & studying the energy consumption patterns and
undertake energy demand management to make better equipment run-time decisions
34 IMPACTS OF CARBON FOOTPRINT OF TEXTILE INDUSTRY b) Provision for production monitoring & understanding energy consumption of equipments at the plant floor level c) Use of modeling equipments that consider energy as a process variable to
optimize
production and schedules •
Renewable energy resources:
a) Biogas energy: The Vardhman Group has taken a big step towards minimising emission of greenhouse gases by using renewable resources like Biogas for bulk cooking purposes since 2010. The BARC (Bhabha Atomic Research Centre) developed the Nisarguna Technology to handle bio-sludge generated at ETPs & colony kitchen wastes for producing Biogas. The Vardhman Group has installed 2 Biogas plants at Auro
Textiles,
Baddi
&
Vardhman
Fabrics,Budhni.
The organisation has been utilising Biogas at the colony kitchens for food preparation. The manure from Biogas plants are used for horticultural purposes within the premises. b) Solar energy: They use renewable fuel consumption devices such as solar cookers/ heaters at multiple locations/units. They have parabolic solar cookers for cooking at our Madhya Pradesh regional units. Hazardous waste handling They have been following EPA rules for hazardous waste handling since 2007. The Vardhman Group has a provision to handle the solid waste generated from effluent treatment plants in
the
form
of
dry
sludge.
They have sludge drying beds at various units, where the sludge is dried and packed in plastic bags and then transported to secure landfill sites. Through this process, solid waste gets treated to
35 IMPACTS OF CARBON FOOTPRINT OF TEXTILE INDUSTRY neutralise their hazardous or toxic elements, ultimately helping it form a part of an eco-friendly environment.
Vardhman Yarns and Threads Ltd., Chandigarh Road, Ludhiana It is one of the major textile producers in the city Ludhiana. Not only it produces fiber but is also involved in prior processes like spinning and yarning. Along with processing natural fibers it is also indulged in synthetic fibers. All in all, a good whole responsibility lies on the shoulders of the company to cater the needs of sustainable production, reduced carbon footprint and understand the need of the hour for reduced wastes, efficient raw material and resource utilization and to return the favors of the nature and environment. Sources of pollution and wastes Excessive chemicals in form of dyes and water is used at the unit. This leads to toxic water being generated at the end of the process. Treatment and reutilization are the demands on the grounds of sustainability. Also, air pollution is of major concern. This is because, the workers and staff of the unit are directly in contact with the contaminants and are always inhaling the same contaminated air. The details of the production and environmental data of the industry are as•
Type of production- Synthetic sewing thread @ 5 TPD Acrylic and polyester yarn @ 25 TPD
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Total production- 30 TPD
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Type and quantity of waste generated-
36 IMPACTS OF CARBON FOOTPRINT OF TEXTILE INDUSTRY 1. Hazardous waste- ETP Sludge, used oil from DG sets, empty dye chemical containers, chemical treated water 2. Effluents- They are disposed to sewer after treatment. Trade effluent: 550KLD Domestic effluent: 10KLD •
ETP sludge is lifted to Nimbua Village, Dera Bassi, Mohali where it is scientifically disposed off.
•
Used oil and empty containers are lifted to authorized recycling units
Analysis and inferences The strategies used by the company are reducing the carbon footprint of the processes involved on site. But architecturally, no such initiative has been taken to reduce the carbon footprint since early stages. Moreover, if strategies are involved on the grounds of architecture, they will work for the whole life of the structure. Also, they will lead to zero carbon of the whole unit including its processes and can also serve as the carbon removal structure from nearby environment too.
Gujarat Eco-Textile Park The eco-park is one of the first built eco-textile parks in India, with the motive of environment friendly practices. To reduce the input costs and compliance with the regulations w.r.t quality, environment and social aspects, all the infrastructure and facilities have been provided. Its main sustainable features include•
Common effluent treatment plant
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Common solid waste management and disposal system
37 IMPACTS OF CARBON FOOTPRINT OF TEXTILE INDUSTRY •
GRP drains for effluent
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Cheap power, captive power project
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GPCB norms are implemented
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Treated water supply system
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Natural gas and effluent disposal point
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Library
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Auditorium, etc.
Infrastructure facilities include•
RCC roads
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Storm water management
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Rainwater harvesting
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Energy efficient street lights
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Green belt, etc.
Analyzing the effects and causes of textile production Water and chemicals The industry is giant and so is its production of pollution. Majorly, water and chemicals are the things used in copious amounts. From initial stages of preparation of fiber to the final stage of coloring and finishing of textiles, water is used in all processes. Consumption of water in large amounts is not such a big of a deal, but use of chemicals and dyeing auxiliaries in most stages is the situation to be concerned of. This leads to production of large amounts of waste water, to be dumped to sewage.
38 IMPACTS OF CARBON FOOTPRINT OF TEXTILE INDUSTRY Analysis- Treatment of waste water, preservation and reuse of water is the need. Hence, set up of effluent treatment plants and bioremediation plants, rainwater harvesting, use of lowflush toilets, recycle and reuse of water and proper disposal of chemical saturated water to the environment are the measures to be taken. This can help offset the CO2 equivalent of the industry.
Air pollution Textile materials treated with lubricating oils, chemicals, plasticizers etc., when subjected to heat produce oil mist and organic emissions. Carbonization of wool and spray dyeing produces acid mist, solvent processing operations produce solvent vapors and many such air pollutants including powder dyes exhaust gases are released in textile processes. These pollutants get dissolved in air, making it unfit for consumption, and thus when inhaled causes severe health problems like respiratory and cardiac conditions, burning and irritation in eyes etc. Analysis- Proper ventilation of the building can regulate the indoor air with fresh outdoor air. Also, architectural strategies like, titanium dioxide treated paints, self-cleaning aluminium panels, pollution eating module, orientation of the building so as to allow max natural sunlight to penetrate indoors and for natural ventilation, smog eating concrete, green walls and surface plantation are some of the measure to be implemented. These measures will not only reduce air pollution on site but can be effective for air pollution reduction for the region as big as a city. Solid waste generation A large quantity of toxic and nontoxic solid wastes are produced as by product of textile manufacturing operations. Containers and drums holding chemicals and other toxic solvents are
39 IMPACTS OF CARBON FOOTPRINT OF TEXTILE INDUSTRY the major pollutants. Soil and ground water gets contaminated on untreated and irresponsibly discharging of the leftover powder dyes and containers, oily cloth, wastewater sludge and scrap metal. Fibers, hemp, yarn and fabrics are the directly produced solid waste from production line, with cones, looms and cardboard reels as secondary pollutants. Analysis- Proper recycle of containers, drums and metal need to be then before dumping them to environment. Fabrics and yarns left over during processes like garmenting, can be reused to make handicrafts like cloth lanterns, patchwork on sheets etc.
Inferences •
Carbon footprint gives the equivalent quantity of the contribution of carbon one has in the environment.
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Reducing the carbon footprint demands responsible actions at every step involved in completion of a process/activity as carbon footprint adds up at every step.
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Waste generation reduction, reutilization of waste like water after treatment, use of conventional sources of energy, lesser use of fuel in transportation, machinery, effective utilization of sources, are some of the ways to reduce the carbon footprint
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Talking on the grounds of architecture, materials like hemp, fly ash added concrete can be used rather normal concrete, smog eating concrete, green belts and walls, self-cleaning façade modules, building orientation as per climate and sun and wind direction so as to reduce the need of active means of ventilation and comfortable indoor environment, carbon crediting the produced the carbon from processes to the architectural elements, etc. are some of the measures to be taken care of while designing the industrial unit building, as an architect.
40 IMPACTS OF CARBON FOOTPRINT OF TEXTILE INDUSTRY •
Most of the carbon footprint produced during the textile production processes are generated by the small-scale industries or cottage units where most of the early processes like spinning, dyeing, etc, are done.
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Cottage industries are the major producers of carbon and are also the one which always remain away from the targets of environmentalists and major government laws. Hence, CTPs, channelization of waste disposal, bio-remediation plants, rainwater harvesting plants etc. are some of the measures for cottage industries. Also, they should focus on carbon credit schemes, to neutralize their impact through other activities.
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For large scale industries, which can afford putting a good amount of money into carbon offsetting techniques, solar panel installation, individual treatment plants, plantation like bioswales and green roofs for surface runoff and rainwater percolation into ground, hemp or fly ash additive concrete for building structure, steel for structures and other architectural elements to be made from recycled steel modified to favorable strength, air purifier system for controlling indoor air quality, putting up systems to make the building self-cleansing, etc. are some of the reasonable and required measures.
•
Government does take initiatives, implements rules and imposes guidelines but the implementation process lacks and also due to lack of public awareness and participation, all the efforts by government and concerned authorities go in vain.
41 IMPACTS OF CARBON FOOTPRINT OF TEXTILE INDUSTRY Conclusion Although textile industry is the major polluting industry, but it’s not too late to bring the ball in their court. Carbon footprint credited in the account of stakeholders of the industry is majorly due to the production practices and the resources and materials involved in them. But in addition to work on these practices, as an architect one can be responsible enough to reduce the impacts caused by the textile industry’s large carbon footprint. Switching to sustainable architectural practices, opting alternatives for conventional energy resources, green belts and green walls, providing solutions to the pollution caused, like ETPs, solar energy and wind energy utilization, efficient disposal points for effluents and wastes, systems for treated water reuse, etc., creating awareness among stakeholders about the need and effects of reducing and neutralizing carbon footprint and getting involved in implementing the standards and guidelines as provided by concerned authorities like CPCB, Ministry of Environment and Forest Protection, an architect can become one of the reasons for reducing the carbon footprint impacts on environment and hence help in restoring the Earth.
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