7 minute read
The Make-up of Beauty
A look at the wild world of cosmetic ingredients
by MaryLee Sachs
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The Body Shop was founded in 1976 by Anita Roddick. The inspiration was a small shop in Berkeley, California, selling naturally scented soaps and lotions, and employing immigrant women from countries that Anita visited on her many travels around the globe. With a vision to sell products with natural, ethically and sustainably sourced ingredients, The Body Shop grew quickly and blossomed into a movement toward social and environmental causes, including a campaign to raise self-esteem in women. The Body Shop was before its time and kicked off an obsession with all things natural for many that continues to grow by generation.
The world has gotten decidedly more complex, well-traveled, healthier, wealthier, and age and beauty obsessed, although the definition of the latter has broadened significantly given campaigns such as Dove Real Beauty and spokespeople such as model Winnie Harlow. Consumers around the globe are creating their own definitions of beauty which look beyond age, gender and body type, and they don’t just want to look good, they want to feel good too.
The consumer’s concern about what goes onto their body as well as into their body has become more acute. It’s as much about what’s not in a product as what is. The presence of parabens, sulfates, formaldehyde, hydroquinone, phthalates, animal products and allergens, all factor into evolving consumer demands. Brands labeled with the new “Clean at Sephora” sticker will be free from these and other sketchy ingredients. Increasingly stringent government rules on allowable ingredients may also rein in some of the sector’s less reputable operators.
Interestingly, governments in the European Union and Canada have banned upward of 1,300 ingredients from use in cosmetics, whereas the US has banned only 11, leaving consumers to fend for themselves when it comes to vetting product safety (“10 US Cosmetic Ingredients Banned in Other Countries — Are Beauty Chemicals Safe?” Cosmopolitan, 2016).
The US, however, is more stringent on cosmetic products with certain medicinal effects, requiring extra regulatory hurdles because they are classified as drugs. Some of these substances include sunscreens, anticaries toothpastes, and lip balms. Even though color additives are not classified as over-thecounter drug actives, they are also subject to more regulatory scrutiny in the US than in Europe (Cosmeticsinfo.org, 2018).
The global market for cosmetic ingredients has been growing at a steady pace. The pursuit of beauty with increasing consciousness of physical appearance, rising awareness of skin health and growing interest in anti-aging formulations has fueled the demand. The global cosmetic ingredients market was worth US$22.89 billion in 2016 and is expected to rise at a CAGR of 4.6% from 2017 to 2025, increasing to US$33.8 billion by the end of 2025. Asia Pacific is set to lead growth — the region accounted for US$7.33 billion (32%) of the 2016 total, ahead of Europe which came in second, and North America third (Transparency Market Research [TMR] Analysis, 2017).
According to TMR, the strengthening economy of Asian countries has increased the disposable income of Asian consumers. With the increasing purchasing power, consumers are willing to spend on high-end expensive cosmetics. China has surfaced as the most prominent for ingredients thanks to the presence of a large pool of cosmetics manufacturers and the availability of low-cost raw materials.
Alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxyl acids and talc are some of the examples of commonly used cosmetic ingredients. Among all these product types, surfactants are expected to hold the market dominance throughout the forecast period, however, conditioning polymers are projected to grow at the highest CAGR between 2015 and 2025.
The cosmetic ingredient market is highly regulated in Europe. Manufacturers need to prove and document the safety and efficacy of product, and show good practice in terms of supply chain, processing, use, availability, Corporate Social Responsibility and traceability. Ingredients buyers also have increasing demands, especially in terms of traceability and sustainability. In addition to that, European legal requirements make gaining entry to the market harder every day.
China, India and ASEAN countries are the key regions driving the cosmetic ingredients market in Asia-Pacific. That said, there have been some new developments in recent months to more heavily regulate those markets as well. For example, earlier this year the Indian government announced a move to make animal ingredients disclosure mandatory for cosmetics packaging.
Hot on the heels, Indonesia will become the second largest contributor to skin care’s absolute growth, replacing the US in third place, according to Euromonitor International.
What's New? 10 Trends
1. Friendly Bacteria
In the last two years, the market has seennumerous launches of skincare productshaving probiotic ingredients. With moreresearch suggesting that bacteria — includinglactobacillus and bifidobacterium — arebeneficial to the skin, this genre is likely togrow in both topical and ingestible forms.
2. Ingestible beauty goes mainstream
While topical treatment is here to stay, there’sa new realization that ingestible skincare hasa place in our daily regimens — not the usualsupplements such as vitamins, but ratheringestibles that contain skin heroes such ascollagen, hyaluronic acid and antioxidantpowerhouses (Byrdie.com, 2018).
3. Hyaluronic Acid
Hyaluronic acid is actually a polysaccharide, a large sugar molecule. It’s naturally found within our bodies and it holds moisture in the spaces between the cells of our skin, helping it to stay plump, but as we age our body’s ability to produce it dwindles. So we’re seeing hyaluronic acid — as well as retinoids — taking the skincare industry by storm because of their powerful anti-aging properties. These help in treating issues such as wrinkles, scars, acne and sun damage, and are very popular in the cosmeceuticals market.
4. Weed allure
Products infused with CBD oil are rapidly becoming the product du jour. Derived from the hemp plant, a cousin to marijuana, CBD boasts a number of skin benefits because it’s rich in fatty acids and natural emollients that can help hydrate and smooth the skin. According to Dr. Joshua Zeichner, director of Cosmetic and Clinical Research at Mount Sinai Hospital, CBD oil is similar to other oils that are often used on skin (olive, avocado and almond) so it works well on dry skin as a moisturizer and can also be helpful in treating conditions such as eczema (“11 CBD-Oil Products for the Budding Weed Beauty Lover”, Elle, 2018).
5. Biotech beauty
Mintel predicts that the beauty and personal care market will experience a fundamental shift during 2018, navigating the conflicting demands of the naturals-hungry consumer with shrinking natural resources by harnessing biotech advantages to create a new generation of enhanced natural product (Mintel Reports, 2017). Take for example squalane. The human body produces its own version, known as squalene, but the amount made and retained in the skin decreases over time. It peaks in our teens and then starts to decline in our 20s, leaving skin rough, dry and vulnerable. Squalene is also found in shark liver but harvesting from sharks isn’t sustainable and overall has a devasting environmental impact. Another widely used source is from olives but the quality depends on weather and crop growth and can therefore be unreliable. Amyris bio-produces a version of squalene from 100% plant-based, renewable sugarcane, which is bio-fermented to create a beautiful end result — highly stable, totally sustainable squalane in an eco-friendly way.
6. Plant stem cell advancement
While stem cells aren’t exactly new toskincare, plant stem cells (a vegan alternative)are set to catch fire. According to Catie Wiggyof MyChelle Dermaceuticals, “One excitingarea of research is how plant stem cells can beused to target skin problems such as wrinkles,visible capillaries and sun damage.” Sinceall areas of the body contain stem cells thatare in a constant state of renewal, Catie saysusing products with plant stem cells can helpreplace the lost and dying cells caused whenthe skin endures damage.
7. Superfood skincare
Given how concerned we are about what we’re putting into our bodies, it was only a matter of time before the beautyindustry started to align our bathroom cabinets with those in our kitchens. Expect to see skincare ingredients includingalgae, moringa and kale (“The 2017 skincare trends you need to have on your radar”, The Telegraph, 2016).
8. Locally sourced Ingredients / From Farm to Face
Growing one’s own ingredients, harvesting them only when ripe, making the formulas in situ and in a short timeframe is one direction for natural (Nature Beauty Report for Cosmetic Executive Women, Peclers Paris, Fall Winter, ‘19/20).
Equally, locally sourced is increasing in popularity. Take for example Haeckels from Margate, England. From the company’s clifftop lab, it distills and uses only locally growing botanicals, and its star ingredient is hand-harvested seaweed from Margate’s own 14-mile long Jurassic chalk reef. Holding one of only two licenses in England to harvest seaweed from the English coast, Haeckels takes pride in caring for the coastline, utilizing its natural bounty of botanicals and harnessing the powerful antioxidant properties they offer, inspired by the Greek tradition of Thalassotherapy, which uses water, seaweed, ocean mud and marine minerals to replenish and revitalize body and mind.
Another company in this space is Farmacy. Its skincare line features a potent plant called Echinacea GreenEnvy™, which was first discovered growing in the wild in upstate New York. This plant, which is patented and exclusive to Farmacy, has 300% more natural antioxidants in its roots than regular echinacea — and it’s the superhero plant that kick-started Farmacy. Its founders claim to work with local farmers to ensure that its key ingredients remain potent and are cultivated in a way that’s good for the planet. They partner with Willow Wisp Organic Farm in Pennsylvania and Patent Wall Organic Farm in the Catskills to cultivate its Echinacea GreenEnvy™.
Water tends to be a key ingredient in most products, of course, the focus is more fully on hydration. ‘Products will utilize water-based ingredients and jelly textures to provide ultralight, breathable finishes,’ says Hilton-Gee. After all, the more hydrated your skin is, the plumper, firmer and more radiant it looks (“The 2017 skincare trends you need to have on your radar”, The Telegraph, 2016).
10. Transformative textures
The term ‘K-beauty’ (Korean-inspired beauty) has been around for a couple of years and Asia will continue to influence global beauty trends. Next year, it will all be about products that change texture as you use them: increasingly, we’re after skincare that surprises our senses. “You can expect materials that build intrigue,” explains Hilton-Gee. “It’s not just about the product itself, but the whole experience” (“The 2017 skincare trends you need to have on your radar”, The Telegraph, 2016).
Meanwhile, personalization is set to reach new heights as brands strive to embrace total inclusivity. When it comes to ethics, it will be imperative for brands to have a personality that is genuine and a viewpoint that clearly communicates their positioning. Finally, “developments in biometric monitoring will see brands drive unprecedented customization of the shopping experience” (Mintel Reports, 2017).
