B utter B its Food....Entertaining....Cooking Journal
Spring 2017
Why Toast And Butter Are The Best Way To Start Your Day
City Country Raspberry Jam
City Country Jams
“Made In The City With a Country Taste” Blackberry Peach Plum Strawberry Raspberry 9 and 12 ounces in Select Flavors 6.95 + shping. www. Bread Butter Epicurean.org
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Notes From The Chef’s Desk
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Lets’s Throw A Party !
nglish writer, poet, philologist, J.RR Tolkien stated “If more of us valued food and cheer and song above hoarded gold, it would be a merrier world.” Whether you entertain only a few time a year or throw parties all the time the value given through your efforts is priceless. There is fun in the planning of a good party-especially a simple one. Pull a great celebration out of your memory archives and relive it, drink by drink and dance by dance. Think about what you enjoyed most,or create an original party in your mind. Picture the location, the mood, the guests’ attire. Let these fantasies and ideas form a springboard for decisions you can make now. Enjoy making your guest list. This is your opportunity to invite your favorite people and create an interesting mix of guests.Let the occasion dictate the format of your party. Have an evening reception to announce an engagement, an afternoon tea for an expectant mother, a festive dinner to mark a personal triumph, such as a bar exam passed, or a new career launched. Celebrate a benchmark wedding anniversary witha midday garden party.The occasions that worth commemorating a party are the ones that excite you.When you love what you’re doing, or love the reason you’re doing it, you will exude confidence and style, and your guests will remember the vent for a long time. Remember, there;s is really no truly “perfect” party- just one that works perfectly for you. Bon Appetit Chef Gary B. Wilkins
Butter Bits Vol 7 Issue 1
FEATURES A Spring Luncheon 8 Sweet Tea 21 Kritharoto with Peas, Lemon, and Feta
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DEPARTMENTS Questions Of Taste 4 Back to Basics ...Best Methods for Folding Cake Batters 5 Cooking on the Run 6 Drinks... Spirits
Tequila 16
Wines
Bordeaux 17
The Creole Sampler
Crawfish 18
The Kitchen Gardner Broccoli 19 If You Didn’t Know
Food and Wine Pairings 14
The Cookbook Galley.. Recommended Cook Books 22
COLUMNS The Southern Bon Vivant .... A Spring Patio Party 12
IN EVERY ISSUE Lagniappe
23
Recipe Index 23
Butter Bits
Foods...Entertaining...Cooking Journal
On the Cover Raspberry Lemonade p 11
Editor and Publisher: Chef Gary B. Wilkins Butter Bits Houston, Texas 77045 is published by Bread & Buttter Epicurean Cinnamon Press Readers questions or comments may be directed to: gimagineparties @gmail.com Editorial Office 832.881.1225 www.breadbutterepicurean.org Butter Bits Spring 2017 ©
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Questions of Taste Q. What is meant by “moderate heat” when the reference is to the heat produced by the fire of a barbecue pit or other outdoor cookery device?
Q. A few weeks ago, I had a bacon lettuce and tomato Panni, and the flavor has been with me. Do you have in your treasure chest of recipes one for BLT Panni? If you do I will be forever grateful.
A. Moderate heat, regardless of how it is generated, is always considered to be about 350° F. In outdoor cookery tfie temperature is measured at grill level, that is to say at the height at which the food is to be cooked above the coals. A good grill thermometer provides the most accurate measurement of such temperature. Lacking one of those, some outdoor cooks insist that the temperature can be determined by the length of time the hand can be held over the fire at grill level. If the heat can be withstood for two seconds, the temperature is considered to be about 350° F. Lacking even a watch, one may determine the time (according to those outdoor enthusiasts) by intoning, “Minneapolis one, Minneapolis two,” etcetera.
Ps. I loved your Holiday issue.
Q. Hey Chef, some months ago while visiting in Miami I was introduced to Cuban black bean soup. After trying this delicious offering in several restaurants, I discovered that none could compare with that I was originally tasted. Do you have a really good Black Bean Soup in your files? A. Here’s a recipe featured in Gourmet Magazine 1965. I think it will stand up to your palate test.
A. I have the right recipe for you .This dressed up BLT Panni is packed with flavor. 6 SERVINGS
Bacon Lettuce Tomato Panni
2 cups (packed) fresh basil leaves 6 tablespoons finely grated Parmesan cheese (about 2 ounces) ¼ cup pine nuts, toasted 1 garlic clove ½ teaspoon salt ¼ cup (or more) olive oil ¾ cup mayonnaise 3 3-ounce packages thinly sliced pancetta (Italian bacon) 4 large tomatoes (preferably heirloom), cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices 12 1-inch-thick slices brioche or other egg bread 3 cups lightly packed arugula (about 1 ½ ounces
Cuban Black Bean Soup La Zaragozana Soak 1 pound black beans in cold --water to cover overnight. Drain the beans, put them in a kettle with 2 quarts water, and cook them until they are tender. Crush together in a mortar 5 garlic cloves, peeled, 2 tablespoons salt, and 1 ½ teaspoons each of cumin and oregano. Heat 5 tablespoons olive oil in a saucepan and stir in 2 medium onions, chopped, 2 green peppers, seeded and chopped, and the garlic mixture. Sauté the vegetables for several minutes. Stir in 1 tablespoon or so of water and simmer the mixture until the onions are tender. Add the onion mixture to the black beans and simmer the soup over low heat until the flavors are well blended. Pour the soup into bowls or soup plates with a little boiled rice. Sprinkle some chopped raw onions, marinated in 1 teaspoon olive oil and ½ teaspoon vinegar, over the top of each serving.
Coarsely chop basil leaves, Parmesan cheese, toasted pine nuts, garlic clove, and salt in processor. With machine running, gradually add ¼ cup oil and puree. Transfer pesto to medium bowl. Season with pepper. Whisk mayonnaise into pesto. Pesto mayonnaise can be made 3 days ahead. Cover and refrigerate. Preheat oven to 325°F. Divide pancetta slices between 2 rimmed baking sheets. overlapping pancetta slightly, if necessary. Roast until slices shrink and turn pale golden brown, about 30 minutes. Cool slightly. Sprinkle tomato slices with pepper. Toast bread. Spread 2 tablespoons pesto mayonnaise over each bread slice. Arrange half of pancetta slices over 6 bread slices. Top with arugula, tomato, remaining pancetta, then remaining bread slices.
Q. Chef, why do recipes invariably say to cook shallots only until they are soft but not browned? Doesn’t browning of shallots, as of onions, make for better flavor? A. Unlike onions, shallots become bitter-tasting when allowed to brown, and they impart their bitterness to other ingredients with which they are combined.
Have a question about cookery or a recipe request? Forward your request to info@breadbutterepicurean.com
4 Butter Bits Spring 2017
Back to Basics
B est Met ho ds for Foldi ng and Whippi ng C a ke B atte rs
1. Beat the egg whites
Fit a mixer with the whip attachment. Beat room-temperature egg whites with cream of tartar on medium speed until foamy and the cream of tartar dissolves, about 1 minute.
2. Check for the soft-peak stage Increase the speed to medium-high and beat until the whites look opaque but moist, 2-3 minutes. Stop beating and lift the whip: The whites should form slightly bent peaks.
1. Beat the egg -sugar mixture Fit a mixer with the twin beaters or the paddle. Beat the eggs and sugar on medium-high speed until mixed and increased in volume. Pay close attention to the changing mixture as you beat.
3. Check for the stiff peak stage
Continue to beat until the whites look glossy, 1-2 minutes longer. When the whip is lifted, they should hold firm, straight peak. Take care not overbeat.
2. Check for the ribbon stage The mixture will change from bright to pale yellow. The beaters or paddle will form lines in the thick, fluffy mixture, and the batter, when lifted, will fall back on itself like a ribbon.
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Cooking on The Run
Bacon, Cheddar and Spinach Strata 12 sevings 1 tablespoon bacon grease 1 (1 pound) loaf day-old bread, cubed 12 large eggs 2 teaspoons kosher salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 pinch cayenne pepper 1 pinch freshly grated nutmeg 2 ½ cups heavy cream 1 pound sliced bacon, cut crosswise into 1/2-inch strips 1 pound fresh spinach, wilted, squeezed dry 12 ounces shredded extra-sharp Cheddar cheese, divided Oil bottom and sides of a 9x13-inch baking dish with about a tablespoon of bacon fat.Place bread cubes in a large mixing bowl. Crack eggs into a separate mixing bowl. Season with salt, pepper, cayenne, and nutmeg. Add cream and whisk mixture thoroughly. Pour egg/cream mixture over the bread cubes and mix to distribute ingredients evenly. Allow bread mixture to sit about 15 minutes to absorb the liquid. Transfer half of the bread mixture to the baking pan; spread evenly over the bottom and press mixture down a bit. Top with 6 Butter Bits Spring 2017
half of the grated Cheddar cheese. Add cooked bacon pieces in an even layer over the cheese. Place the cooked spinach over the bacon; top with half of the remaining cheese. Finish with the rest of the soaked bread cubes, spread evenly and pressed down slightly. Sprinkle with the rest of the grated cheese. Cover and let strata sit at room temperature for 1 hour before baking.Preheat oven to 350 degrees F (175 degrees C). Bake strata in preheated oven until set, about 45 minutes. Optionally, you can broil the strata for a minute or two to brown the top. Cook's Notes: If you want something a little eggier, a little more quiche-like, just simply increase the amount of egg custard used. As long as your pan is deep enough, you could as much as double the eggs and cream in this. This is a very rich dish, so you may want to cut the cream with milk. In fact, many people use all milk for this, but I do enjoy the extra butterfat the cream provides. As usual, let your conscience be your guide. You can used thawed, drained frozen spinach instead of fresh. You'll need enough to cover one layer. Instead of waiting for an hour to bake the prepared strata, you can bake it immediately or cover and refrigerate overnight and bake the next day.
Bread & Butter Epicurean “pleasures in dining”
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A Spring Luncheon
You don’t need to be an experience cook to execute these luncheon recipes. With a little patience and some pre-planning your guests will think you hired a caterer. 8 Butter Bits Spring 2017
Tandoori Chicken Salad 1 tablespoon vegetable oil Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper Juice of 2 to 3 small lemons For the Marinade 1 cup plain nonfat yogurt 2 teaspoons garam masala powder* 1 teaspoon ground ginger 1 teaspoon minced garlic 1 teaspoon ground turmeric 1 teaspoon coarse salt 1 jalapeno chile, seeded, and finely minced (optional) Four 1 ½ pound skinless, boneless chicken breast halves, gently flattened and cut into str For the Salad 1 (3 cups) small head shredded iceberg lettuce
Cheesy Lemon Angel Hair
1 (3 cups) small head shredded red cabbage
1 lb. angel hair pasta
6 (3 cups) large diced plum tomatoes
1 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1 bunch (1 cup) sliced radishes
2 tbsp. unsalted butter
1 (2 cups) large sliced cucumber
2 tbsp. flour
1 small bunch (2 cups) large sliced scallions, minced
3 lemons, thinly sliced and seeded
1 cup loosely packed cilantro leaves, finely chopped
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 ½ cups diced jicama
¾ c. chicken broth
Directions
kosher salt
Prepare the marinade: In a medium bowl combine yogurt, garam masala, ginger, garlic, turmeric, salt, and jalapeno, if using. Add chicken and toss to coat. Cover and refrigerate while preparing the salad. In a large bowl, toss together lettuce, cabbage, tomatoes, radishes, cucumber, scallions, cilantro, and jicama; set aside.Heat oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add chicken along with the marinade and cook, stirring, until the chicken is just cooked through, 6 to 8 minutes.Transfer chicken and pan juices to salad mixture and toss to combine. Drizzle with lemon juice and season with salt and pepper. Stir to combine.
* Garam masala is a blend of ground spices common in India, Pa-
kistan, and other South Asian cuisines. It is used alone or with other seasonings
Freshly ground black pepper 1 ½ c. grated Parmesan 1 ½ c. grated Gruyere 1 ½ c. grated pecorino Romano ¼ c. chopped fresh parsley, plus more for garnish Directions Bring a large pot of water to a boil and generously season with salt. Cook pasta according to al dente package directions. Drain. In a large skillet over low heat add 2 tablespoons olive oil and 2 tablespoons butter. When butter starts to bubble add garlic and lemons. Season with salt and pepper and cook until lemons are softened, about 2-3 minutes. Whisk in flour and cook for 1 minute. Add chicken broth and whisk until smooth. Add cheeses while constantly whisking. Add cooked angel hair and toss in sauce with parsley. Serve immediately.
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Banana Pudding Cheesecake
Curried Shrimp Tea Sandwiches
1 ½ cups finely crushed vanilla wafers
2 ½ cups finely chopped peeled and deveined, cooked shrimp (about 1 lb. of any size) ½ cup finely diced celery ½ cup toasted sweetened flaked coconut
½ cup chopped pecans ¼ cup butter, melted 17 vanilla wafers
1 ½ (8-oz.) packages cream cheese, softened
2 large ripe bananas, diced
3 tablespoons minced green onions
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 tablespoon freshly grated ginger
2 tablespoons light brown sugar
1 ½ teaspoons curry powder
3 (8-oz.) packages cream cheese, softened
¼ teaspoon salt
1 cup granulated sugar
¼ teaspoon ground red pepper
3 large eggs
Stir together shrimp, celery, coconut, cream cheese, green onions, ginger, curry powder, salt, and red pepper until well blended.
2 teaspoons vanilla extract ½ cup coarsely crushed vanilla wafers Garnishes: sweetened whipped cream, vanilla wafers, sliced bananas tossed in lemon juice Preheat oven to 350°. Stir together first 3 ingredients in a small bowl until well blended. Press mixture onto bottom of a greased and floured 9-inch springform pan. Stand 17 vanilla wafers around edge of pan (rounded sides against pan), pressing gently into crust to secure. Bake 10 minutes. Cool completely on a wire rack (about 30 minutes). Combine bananas and lemon juice in a small saucepan. Stir in brown sugar. Cook over medium-high heat, stirring constantly, 1 minute or just until sugar has dissolved. Beat cream cheese at medium speed with an electric mixer 3 minutes or until smooth. Gradually add granulated sugar, beating until blended. Add eggs, 1 at a time, beating just until yellow disappears after each addition. Beat in vanilla. Gently stir banana mixture into cream cheese mixture. Pour batter into prepared crust. Bake at 350° for 45 to 55 minutes or until center is almost set. Remove cheesecake from oven; gently run a knife around edge of cheesecake to loosen. Sprinkle top of cheesecake with coarsely crushed wafers. Cool completely on a wire rack (about 1 hour). Cover and chill 8 hours.
Spread on: white bread. Variation. Curried Chicken: Substitute 2 ½ cups finely chopped cooked chicken for shrimp. Prepare recipe as directed. Spread on: raisin bread.
Honey-Lime Fruit Salad Fresh fruit and toasted almonds star in this quick-to-fix 5-ingredient salad. 12 servings ½ cup honey ½ cup frozen limeade concentrate, (thawed) 1 tablespoon poppy seed, if desired 12 cups cut-up fresh fruit, (cantaloupe, kiwifruit, pink grapefruit) ½ cup slivered almonds, toasted 1Mix honey, limeade concentrate and poppy seed in medium bowl.Carefully toss fruit with honey mixture. Sprinkle with almonds.
Honey Lime Fruit Salad 10 Butter Bits Spring 2017
Beautiful Platters The more distinctive and appealing a serving dish is on its own, the less garnish you'll need.
Raspberry Lemonade 10 sliced lemons 2 cups raspberries 1 ½ cups sugar 6 cups water 2 Ÿ cups tequila blanco (optional) Mint, for garnish DirectionsCombine lemons, raspberries, and sugar in a large pot. Pound the mixture firmly with the end of a straight rolling pin (or a large wooden spoon), extracting as much juice as possible, about 10 minutes. Stir in water. Pour through a sieve into a large bowl. Press the solids until all juice is extracted. Discard the solids. Serve over ice.Cocktail version: Stir tequila into lemonade. Serve over ice, and garnish with mint. VariationsCocktail version: Stir tequila into lemonade. Serve over ice, and garnish with mint.
Colorful beauties These platters are ideal for casual buffets and family-style meals. Mix and match patterns and colors. Hang them on the wall when not in use. Be aware that some imported and antique dishes may have lead content and therefore are unsafe for food. Formal white china Elegant, sleek platters of white china with a gold or silver trim are ideal for formal events. Secondhand and antique stores are treasure troves of platters with classic trims. Varied shapes and sizes Collect uniquely shaped platters to compensate for nondescript tableware. Showcase different or unique shapes: square, rectangle, and star are a few variations. Japanese pottery, for example, comes in a wide variety of shapes and colors. Colored glassware Use glass pieces in assorted colors. Textured plates are especially pretty. Look for glass platters trimmed with a decorative metallic finish or clear glass that has been coated or i pregnated with an iridescent sheen. Avoid glassware with painted-on designs; these could flake off and get into food.
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The Southern Bon Vivant A Spring Patio Party
H
ello my friends, I just love to entertain, from an intimate late night breakfast after a night with a special friend, to a house full of guests it's all pleasure to me. One afternoon last Spring I was enjoying a quiet moment on the patio after attending to my
garden,and the thought of having company over struck me. After musing over the thought for a minute, I decided to phone my friend Retà to see if she had plans for the evening, and if not, to invite her over. I dialed her and Retà answered the phone in her always sensuous “Hey Baby, what’s up?” She was happy to hear from me, and would love to come over, but she reminded me of her weekend guests. I said not to worry, and my invitation included her guests. It was late in the afternoon, a beautiful and balmy May day in Houston. I decided to entertain outside on the patio with a menu consisting of grilled porterhouse steaks with paparika-parmesan butter,grilled vegetables with cumin,cilantro and salsa verde. and Asian Style pickled shrimp that I brought home from the restaurant. The batch of Watermelon Tequila and the white coals in the grill were just right as the doorbell chimed signaling the arrival of Retà and friends. We had a great time that evening. Friends, here is one of the recipes that I prepared for that early evening gathering. I hope you will find it easy as well as enjoyable for your guests.
Ciao The Southern Bon Vivant
Asian-Style Pickled Shrimp 8 SERVINGS
2 ¼ cups water 3 tablespoons rice vinegar 2 tablespoons minced fresh lemongrass * ½ tablespoons pickling spice 1 tablespoon salt 1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns 2 pounds uncooked medium shrimp, unpeeled, rinsed ½ cup plus 2 tablespoons fresh cilantro 4 small green onions, (about' cup) 3 tablespoons minced pickled ginger,* 2 tablespoons ginger brine reserved Place first 6 ingredients in Add shrimp. Cover; bring to boil. Uncover and boil until shrimp Are Just cooked through, about 2 minutes. heat. Stir in ½ cup chopped,cilantro, green onions, pickled ginger and ginger brine. Cool 1 hour. Chill uncovered 12 Butter Bits Spring 2017
until cold, then cover and chill at least 4 hours and up to 1 day. Using slotted spoon, transfer shrimp to medium bowl. Sprinkle with remaining 2 tablespoons cilantro. *Available at Asian foods stores and some supermarkets If you’d like to serve a sauce alongside, strain cup of the cooled pickling liquid, and whisk it with 1 cup of mayonnaise. For ease, the shrimp are left unpeeled; if you peel them before cooking, leave the tails on.
Butter Bits Tantalizing Flavors
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If You Didn’t Know
14 Butter Bits Spring 2017
Kritharoto (Orzo Pasta) with Peas, Lemon, and Feta from Cooking Light
Chervil is a much-loved herb in Greece, where it's called myronia. If unavailable, substitute 7 tablespoons fresh parsley plus 1 tablespoon fresh tarragon. You can also sub ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper for Maras. Serves 6 as a main course or 12 as a salad.
2 cups unsalted chicken stock (such as Swanson) ¼ cup olive oil 5 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 8 ounces orzo (rice-shaped pasta) 1 teaspoon Maras pepper ½ teaspoon kosher salt ½ cup white wine 4 cups shelled fresh or frozen green peas, thawed ½ cup chopped fresh chervil
Bring stock to a simmer in a medium saucepan over medium heat.Heat a high-sided sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add oil to pan. Add garlic; sauté 30 seconds. Add pasta, pepper, and salt; cook 3 minutes, stirring constantly. Add wine; cook 30 seconds. Add hot stock; bring to a boil. If using fresh peas, add to pan. If using frozen peas, add during the last 2 minutes of cooking. Cook the pasta mixture 10 minutes or until pasta is al dente, stirring frequently. Remove pan from heat; stir in chervil and the remaining ingredients.
2 tablespoons grated lemon rind 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 3 tablespoons chopped fresh dill 2 ounces feta cheese, crumbled (about ½ cup) Bread Butter Epicurean.org 15
Drinks...Spirits
Tequila
S
ince 1990, tequila has been the fastest growing spirit in the American liquor industry. Over the past seven years, while all other spirit sales have been in steady decline, tequila has shown vigorous, sometimes spectacular increases. In 1995 alone, Mexico exported 40.3 million liters of tequila to the United States. Contrary to popular belief, tequila is not cactus juice. The spirit is distilled from blue Weber agave. (And for the record, it should never come with a worm in the bottle.) Just like Champagne or cognac, tequila can only be made in a specific region: the Mexican state of Jalisco and some surrounding areas. The area’s volcanic soil is perfect for growing agave. The forbidding plant, which has sharp thorns and long, thick leaves, takes between eight and 12 years to reach maturity before it can be harvested. The beloved Margarita drives the phenomenal growth in tequila consumption. Increased interest in Mexican and Southwestern foods across the United States promises to keep the flow of tequila escalating.
The Patrón Perfect Cosmo Cocktail 2 oz Patrón Silver Tequila ¾ oz Patrón Citrónge Orange Liqueur 1 splash Cranberry juice 1 splash Fresh lime juice Garnish: 1 Lime wheel Glass: Martini Add all the ingredients to a shaker and fill with ice. Shake well and strain into a Martini glass. Garnish with a lime wheel.
The Partida Paloma Cocktail 2 oz Partida Blanco Tequila 1 pinch Salt Half a lime Grapefruit soda Glass: Highball Fill a highball glass with ice and add the tequila and salt. Squeeze the lime half into the glass and drop into the drink. Fill with grapefruit soda.
16 Butter Bits Spring 2017
Drinks...Wines
Bordeaux
A Bordeaux wine is any wine produced in the Bordeaux region of France, centred on the city of Bordeaux and covering the whole area of the Gironde department, with a total vineyard area of over 120,000 hectares,making it the largest wine growing area in France. Average vintages produce over 700 million bottles of Bordeaux wine, ranging from large quantities of everyday table wine, to some of the most expensive and prestigious wines in the world. The vast majority of wine produced in Bordeaux is red (called "claret" in Britain), with sweet white wines (most notably Sauternes), dry whites, and (in much smaller quantities) rosé and sparkling wines (Crémant de Bordeaux) collectively making up the remainder. Bordeaux wine is made by more than 8,500 producers or châteaux. There are 54 appellations of Bordeaux wine.
Scallops with Grapefruit Onion Salad with Bordeaux Sauvignon Blanc
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The Creole Sampler
Crawfish langouste ; écrevisse
D
Louisiana’s Culinary Gift to the Nation ating back to the native Americans and the early European settlers, the crawfish has been and inherent part of Louisiana culture. Abundant in the swamps and marshes across south Louisiana, crawfish were a favorite food of early residents. Centuries later, crawfish season is still exciting, with crawfish boils and backyard parties a time-honored tradition.
Crawfish Cakes with Red Pepper Remoulade Remoulade Sauce: 1 roasted red bell pepper 1 cup sour cream Chopped basil Salt & pepper to taste Cayenne pepper to taste ¼ cup olive oil Crawfish Cakes: 1 lb. Louisiana crawfish tailmeat 2 T. minced roasted red bell pepper Chopped parsley, chives and basil 1 T. Creole mustard 2 tsps.. mayonnaise 2 tsps. Creole seasoning Salt & pepper to taste 1 egg ¾ cup bread crumbs juice of ½ lime For sauce: Combine ¼ c. minced red bell pepper with sour cream, basil, salt, pepper and cayenne. Slowly whisk in olive oil to form a creamy dressing. Refrigerate. For crawfish cakes: Coarsely chop tailmeat. Combine with all ingredients except bread crumbs and mix well. Form into 2” balls, roll in bread crumbs and flatten. Melt some butter on a griddle or skillet over medium heat and saute’ cakes until golden brown, about 1 minute per side. Finish cooking in 350 degree oven for 10 minutes. Serve topped with remoulade sauce and sour cream. 18 Butter Bits Spring 2017
River Road Crawfish Stew 6 servings
This is the most popular of all crawfish dishes cooked in Bayou country. It is easy to prepare and although similar to crawfish bisque, this dish may be completed in half the time.
3 lbs. cleaned crawfish tails 1 cup vegetable oil 1 cup flour 2 cups diced onions 1 cup diced celery 1 cup diced bell pepper 2 tbsp. minced garlic ½ cup tomato sauce 1 ½ quarts crawfish stock or water 1 cup chopped green onions 1 cup chopped parsley 4 tsps. salt 2 tsps. black pepper Dash of Louisiana Gold Pepper Sauce In a twelve-quart Dutch oven, heat oil over medium high heat. Add flour and using a wire whip, stir constantly until dark brown roux is achieved. When brown, add onions, celery, bell pepper and garlic and sauté until vegetables are wilted,
approximately five to seven minutes. Add one-pound crawfish tails and cook five additional minutes. Stir in tomato sauce blend into roux and cook three to five minutes. Slowly add crawfish stock or water stirring constantly until stewlike consistency is achieved. Bring to a boil, reduce to simmer and cook thirty minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the remaining twopounds crawfish tails, green onions and parsley. Season using salt and pepper. Cook for twenty-minute longer adding additional water if necessary. When done, serve over white rice with a few dashes of Louisiana Gold Pepper Sauce. Notes: A rich crawfish stock will certainly make this dish a winner. Any shellfish stock or fish stock may be substituted, but the dish will be good even if water is used.
The Kitchen Gardner
Broccolli
B
roccoli, a relative of the cabbage, is widely grown in temperate climates in many parts of the world, particularly in the cooler regions. Like its cousin the cauliflower, it is made up of the unopened flower heads of the plant. In the familiar dark green broccoli, also called calabrese, the buds are tightly packed in large, pebbly heads, whereas in sprouting species the buds, which may be purple, white, or green, are in groups on individual long, slender stalks. Very similar, although more leafy, is broccoli di rape, also called broccoli raab, or time di rapa in Italy. Dark green broccoli has a fine texture and a light cabbage-like flavour with a hint of sweetness; sprouting broccoli is sweeter and more tender. Broccoli di rape is the least sweet of the types, with a pleasant, zesty bite. • BUY Although available year-round, the best broccoli is in the markets in autumn through winter to spring. With dark green broccoli, the heads should be dense, with no separation between
the green buds and no yellow flowers showing: the presence of even one flower means the plant is turning fibrous and woody. Sprouting-broccoli types should have firm stalks and fresh leaves. Cut ends should look moist, not split and dried out.
CHINESE STIR-FRIED BROCCOLI Serve this easy Chinese vegetable dish with grilled meats, poultry, or fish, and some steamed sticky rice.
• STORE Broccoli will keep well in a plastic bag in the vegetable drawer of the fridge for 3-4 days.
SERVES 4
• EAT Fresh: Broccoli can be separated into small florets and peeled strips of stalk to eat raw, in salads or as crudités. Cooked: Boil or steam, bake in sauce, braise, coat in batter and deep-fry, stirfry, or sauté.
1 tbsp vegetable oil
• FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Bacon, anchovies, cheese, pesto, hollandaise sauce, lemon, garlic, pine nuts, olive oil.
4 tbsp vegetable stock or water
• CLASSIC RECIPES Chinese stirfried broccoli; broccoli alla Romany a la creme, a la polonaise; al burro e formaggio.
1 Heat a large, non-stick frying pan or wok. Add the sesame seeds and toast them, shaking the pan constantly, for 1-2 minutes, or until the seeds turn golden. Transfer to a plate.
I tbsp sesame seeds I tbsp light soy sauce pinch of dried chilli flakes (9oz) broccoli (calabrese), florets separated and stalks thinly sliced salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 Add the oil, soy sauce, and dried chilli flakes to the pan and stir to combine. Add the broccoli florets and stalks and stir-fry for 2 minutes. 3 Pour in the stock and cover the pan. Cook for 1-2 minutes, or until the broccoli is tender but still crisp. Stir in the sesame seeds and season to taste with salt and pepper. Broccoli (calabrese) The most common variety of broccoli,is rich green with a meaty flavour and,if not overcooked, a crunchy texture.It is packed with nutrients that are best rePurple sprouting broccoli The elegant spears have a chewy texture tained by steaming. and full-bodied texture. In Italy sprouting broccoli is served the same way as aasparagus-with olive oil,melted butter or hollandaise sauce.
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Cook Book Galley
Recommended Cookbooks Sizzling Stir-Fries
Food Chronology by James Trager, Henry Holt & Co., Inc.
By Kay Fairfax, Rizzoli International Publications, Inc. Based on noodles, rice and vegetables, this exceptional book offers 100 healthy ways to combine an amazing variety of ingredients, spices and sauces with Italian, Mexican, Middle Eastern and Indian accents. With tantalizing photographs of steaming food by Robin Matthews, you can expect to find some of the best dishes ever to emerge from a wok, such as spicy red chicken curry with coconut milk, and scallops glazed with honey, ginger and cracked black pepper.
For history lovers and “foodies” alike, this hefty, award-winning volume is flavored with gustatory wit and wisdom along with countless statistics. It presents an entertaining and informative view of the evolution of food and its availability throughout human history, with 13,000 entries in areas such as agriculture, environment, transportation, nutrition, marketing and food retailing. Chapters on education, communication and literature are also included. We learn for instance that in 1913 Russian pathologist Nikolai Anichkov discovered that rabbits fed large amounts of cholesterol and animal fats developed hardening of the arteries; in 1950 Dunkin’ Donuts got off to a flying start in a converted awning shop at Quincy, Mass., and in 1961 canned pet foods were among the three top-selling categories in U.S. grocery stores, and much more.
20 Butter Bits Spring 2017
the real delights of being a chef); from the kitchen of the Rainbow Room atop Rockefeller Center, to drug dealers in the east village, from Tokyo to Paris and back to New York again, Bourdain’s tales of the kitchen are as passionate as they are unpredictable. Kitchen Confidential will make your mouth water while your belly aches with laughter. You’ll beg the chef for more, please.
Skinnytaste Fast and Slow
By Gina Homolka and Heathet K .Jones Clarkson Potter
Kitchen Confidential
By Anthony Boudain,Bloomsbury USA
Kitchen Confidential reveals what Bourdain calls “twenty-five years of sex, drugs, bad behavior and haute cuisine.” Last summer, The New Yorker published Chef Bourdain’s shocking, “Don’t Eat Before Reading This.” Bourdain spared no one’s appetite when he told all about what happens behind the kitchen door. Bourdain uses the same “take-no-prisoners” attitude in his deliciously funny and shockingly delectable book, sure to delight gourmands and philistines alike. From Bourdain’s first oyster in the Gironde, to his lowly position as dishwasher in a honky tonk fish restaurant in Provincetown (where he witnesses for the first time
With Skinnytaste Fast and Slow, you can get a nutritious, flavor-packed, figure-friendly meal—complete with a flourless chocolate brownie made in a slow cooker—on the table any night of the week. Gina Homolka, founder of the widely adored blog Skinnytaste, shares 140 dishes that come together in a snap— whether in a slow cooker or in the oven or on the stovetop. Each recipe includes nutritional information, which can help you take steps toward weight and health goals, and many dishes are vegetarian, gluten-free, and freezer-friendly—all called out with helpful icons. Gina’s practical advice for eating well and 120 color photos round out this indispensable cookbook
Sweet Tea S
weet tea began as an item of luxury due to the expensive nature of tea, ice, and sugar.Ice was possibly the most valued of the ingredients since it had to be shipped from afar at a time when access to cool drinking water was already a relative luxury. In modern times it can be made in large quantities quickly and inexpensively.
Classic Sweet Tea
yield 2 quarts
12 regular-size tea bags ⅛ teaspoon baking soda 1 qt. distilled or bottled water 1 qt. ice cubes 1 ¼ cups Simple Syrup Place tea bags and baking soda in a large heatproof glass pitcher. Bring water just to a rolling boil in a saucepan or kettle, and immediately pour over tea bags, making sure bags are submerged. Cover and steep 7 minutes. Remove tea bags without squeezing; discard tea bags. Add ice, and stir until ice melts. Stir in Simple Syrup, and serve over ice. Simple Syrup Makes 1 ½ cups This versatile syrup is the best way to sweeten tea because the sugar is already dissolved. Ingredients 1 cup water 1 cup sugar Bring water and sugar to a boil in a small saucepan over medium heat, stirring occasionally. Boil 1 minute or until sugar dissolves. Remove from heat, and cool 30 minutes. Refrigerate in an airtight container up to 2 weeks.
Lemonade Iced Tea
Recipe From: Southern Living yield 8 cups
3 cups water 2 family-size tea bags 1 (1-oz.) package fresh mint leaves (about 1 cup loosely packed) ½ cup sugar 4 cups cold water 1 (6-oz.) can frozen lemonade concentrate, thawed Garnish: fresh citrus slices Bring 3 cups water to a boil in a 2-qt. saucepan. Remove from heat, add tea bags, and stir in fresh mint. Cover and steep 10 minutes. Remove and discard tea bags and mint. Stir in sugar until dissolved. Pour tea into a 3-qt. container, and stir in 4 cups cold water and lemonade concentrate. Serve over ice. Garnish, if desired. Bourbon-Lemonade Iced Tea: Prepare recipe as directed, and stir in 1 cup bourbon. Makes 9 cups. Spiced Dark Rum-Lemonade Iced Tea: Prepare recipe as directed, and stir in 1 cup spiced dark rum. Makes 9 cups.
Blackberry Sweet Tea
yield 7 cups
3 cups fresh or frozen blackberries, thawed 1 ¼ cups sugar 1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint Pinch of baking soda 4 cups boiling water 2 family-size tea bags 2 ½ cups cold water Garnish: fresh blackberries Combine blackberries and sugar in a large container, and crush with a wooden spoon; stir in mint and baking soda. Pour 4 cups boiling water over tea bags; cover and steep 5 minutes. Discard tea bags. Pour tea over blackberry mixture; let stand at room temperature 1 hour. Pour tea through a wire-mesh strainer into a large pitcher, discarding solids. Add 2 ½ cups cold water, stirring until sugar dissolves. Cover and chill 1 hour. Garnish, if desired.
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Lagniappe ( a little something extra) Recipe Index Appetizers Cuban Black Bean Soup p. 4 Curried Shrimp Tea Sandwiches p.10 Asian Style Pickled Shrimp p.12 Crawfish Cakes with Red Pepper Remoulade p. 18 Salads Tandoori Chicken Salad p.9 Honey Lime Fruit Salad p.10 Kritharoto with Peas, Lemons and Feta p. 15
Entrees
Chicken-and-Andouille Étouffée 6 servings
BLT Panni p. 4 Bacon,Cheddar and Spinach Strata p. 6 Cheesy Lemon Angel Hair p. 9 River Road Crawfish Stew p.18 Chinese Stir-Fried Broccoli p.19
Desserts
¼ cup canola oil ¼ cup a.p. flour 1 onion, diced 1 small green bell pepper, diced 2 celery ribs, finely diced 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced Salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 andouille sausage (about 3 ounces), cut into ½ -inch dice 1 tablespoon tomato paste 2 cups low-sodium chicken broth 1 pound skinless, boneless chicken breasts, cut into 1-inch pieces Steamed rice and hot sauce, for serving
Banana Pudding Chesese Cake p. 7
Drinks Raspberry Lemonade p.11 Patron Perfect Cosmo p.16 Partida Paloma Cocktail p.16 Classic Sweet Tea p. 21 Lemonade Sweet Tea p. 21 Blackberry Sweet Tea p 21
In a large, deep skillet, heat the oil until shimmering. Whisk in the flour and cook over moderately high heat, whisking constantly, until lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Add the onion, bell pepper, celery and garlic. Season the vegetables with salt and black pepper and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until softened, about 6 minutes. Add the sausage and tomato paste and cook for 2 minutes. Add the broth and simmer until thickened, 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in the chicken and simmer until cooked through, 5 minutes. Season with salt and black pepper and serve over rice, with hot sauce.
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Preserved Meats Saucisse de Morteau A French pork sausage cold-smoked before sale.
Andouillettes are made of pork or veal tripe and intestine.
Vension sausages can replace pork or beef sausages in many recipes.