GOTHAM JOURNAL - The Heirloom Issue by Bret Csencsitz

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GOTHAM journal A M a g a z i n e o f M o d e r n A m e r i c a n F o o d C u lt u r e

T h e H e i r lo o m i ss u e

Heirloom Gotham heir·loom /’e(ə)r,loom/ noun noun: heirloom; plural noun: heirlooms 1. a valuable object that has belonged to a family for several generations. 4

San Marzano Heirloom The legend of a famous tomato

6 Garden of Eatin’ Tim Stark discusses being an heirloom farmer 9

birth of an heirloom The seven-year wish

10 savory Two Portale recipes to save and seed 13 sweet An easy rezept for a founding apple 14 Deep Roots The Alsatian wine heritage by Heidi Turzyn 15 apple hot A hot cocktail to keep you warm 17 High line A Gotham event for the Big Apple 19 ON THE FRONT BURNER What’s new, what’s to come

The term heirloom emerged in the food world from a small movement by gardeners and farmers who shared the seeds of their favorite garden offspring. It was partly a reaction to industrial farming, but ultimately its beginnings were, and still are, all about taste, texture, and beauty. The movement blossomed—thanks in large part to Seed Savers Exchange, an organization started in the 1970s to facilitate more sharing among growers. For the Gotham kitchen, heirloom varietals are culinary gems. Gems that open up new worlds of textures, acidity levels, and flavor profiles—charms with which each chef seeks to seduce. The misshapen and variably colored heirloom tomato is the poster child for the heirloom movement—symbolic of a return to taste in the American culinary psyche. In New York City this movement took hold some 20 years ago, when “accidental farmer” Tim Stark brought his oddball fruits to the Union Square Greenmarket. New York chefs were immediately impressed. Here was a tomato that surprised, delighted, and expanded some of the most notable culinary talents’ repertoires in one fell slice. The “label” heirloom is now extending its appeal to other varietals from apples to beans, potatoes, squash, cauliflower, and more. These fruits and vegetables bear the marks of evolution and of history—delicious reminders of what once was, what is, and what can be. At Gotham as we enter our third decade, we are compelled to define our own “heirlooms,” which seeds of our past we want to preserve and which new growths we might plant for tomorrow. In this edition of Gotham Journal we explore a few of our chefs’ favorite heirlooms, including Thomas Jefferson’s favorite apple, a humble bean, the Waltham squash, and an heirloom pepper from farmer Tim Stark, with whom I discuss heirloom farming at his Eckerton Hill Farm. We hope you will join us soon as we begin our 30th heirloom year. Bret Csencsitz Managing Partner Gotham Bar and Grill

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Michael Nelson

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THE LEGEND OF THE SAN MARZANO TOMATO According to Gotham Not so many centuries ago in a faraway place the King of Peru took a trip to see the King of Naples. As a gift he brought the King of Naples seeds from the most precious fruit in Peru, the tomato. The King of Naples planted the seeds in the valley of San Marzano, below Mount Vesuvius. After tasting his first tomato, the King of Naples declared it the best-tasting fruit anyone had ever had. The tomato’s popularity grew and grew and grew; soon all the farms were growing tomatoes, and people from all around had heard of the San Marzano tomato. It became the most famous tomato in all the world, and Naples became very rich—all because of the San Marzano tomato. One day some smart men showed the King of Naples a new tomato. It looked the same, except it could be farmed with machines, and they promised that more tomatoes could be sold and Naples would become even richer. The King decreed that all farms were to plant the new tomato, and that the farms were to use the new machines to make more tomatoes. At first, the town became richer and richer, but then people started to say the tomato was not the same, it didn’t taste as good, it wasn’t as sweet. Naples began to suffer. The King didn’t know what to do since all

the farms were growing the new tomato and no one had the first tomato’s seeds anymore. He searched all over for the old tomato, and one day he found Farmer Luigi di Verite. Luigi owned a small plot of land on the very edge of San Marzano, where he grew tomatoes in his garden. The King asked Luigi for a tomato. The King gave the tomato from Luigi to the most famous chef in Naples to taste. The chef sliced the tomato and even before tasting it, he could tell it was different. When tasting confirmed his highest hope, he squealed with joy: “This is it, this is it, this is the San Marzano tomato!” The King took the tomato and its seeds, decreeing that no tomato in San Marzano would thereafter be grown except from the seeds of farmer Luigi Verite. It wasn’t long before all the world was once again celebrating the San Marzano tomato, and Naples flourished again. The King and the people were even happier than before, and the San Marzano tomato will always be the star of Naples.

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Tim Sta r k an d his Ga rde n of Eatin’ Tim Stark founded Eckerton Hill Farm in Lenhartsville, Pennsylvania, 17 years ago. The farm began on a two-acre spread his mother lovingly referred to as “the magical garden.” He now manages 58 acres over three different locations, producing 150 different varieties of plants and 35,000 pounds of tomatoes alone. Tim never imagined being at the forefront of the heirloom movement. In 2008, during what he refers to as a “mid-farm crisis,” Tim published Heirloom: Notes from an Accidental Tomato Farmer 12 years into working his own farm. It tells the story of his journey back to the farm.

Bret Csencsitz: What started the farm journey for you? Tim Stark: I was really a gardener, and in some ways that’s still how I farm, like a gardener. A lot of people come to the farm and they’re like, Gosh, this looks like a huge garden. They see us working out there, people are hand weeding and hoeing. At the peak of the season, 20 people will be out there in the garden; and what drew me to gardening was growing interesting varieties, heirloom varietals. When the garden turned into a farm, I did the same on a bigger scale. BC: Did it scale up easily? TS: Well, at first it was really hard. The first year I had all these varieties of tomatoes and eggplant, and there weren’t enough people to pick everything. There weren’t enough baskets. We didn’t have enough people to organize. I learned, maybe two years into it, how to organize it in such a way that you can grow, present, and sell it. Ironically, in the beginning, we couldn’t sell the stuff locally. The tomatoes looked strange, and the local markets wouldn’t buy them, so it all went to New York. Now, we can sell out locally. BC: They certainly made an impression on New York chefs. It was all about the taste of these “new” tomatoes. And now the heirloom movement has spread to more and more fruits and vegetables. What makes heirlooms different?

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TS: Heirlooms are desirable varieties— whether better tasting or interesting looking—that would have been lost without someone having saved the seeds. But there are some great hybrids, too, like orange cauliflowers and romanesco broccoli, which are so interesting looking. The tables have been turned in some respects; now the hybridizers are saying that people want funky-looking things. At Eckerton, we grow plenty of hybrids as well as heirlooms. BC: Hybrids and heirlooms in harmony. TS: Exactly, but it’s not only about the variety; it’s also about the farming. The soil, the weather, irrigation—I use composting and crop rotation with a variety of cover crops when the fields are not planted, and we only plant tomatoes every seven years on any given patch of land. That’s why our tomatoes, heirlooms, and hybrids are so good. Yes, the variety is part of it, but it’s also the soil. BC: Which reminds me of a term we hear in describing wines: the terroir, which is about how the place a wine is from affects the quality and taste, as much or more than the variety of grape. TS: It is the same principle. For example, we don’t just spray (the crops) every time we see a little spot on the leaves.

And we irrigate sparingly, so the plants have to struggle. Just like grapes, we plant on southern-facing hillsides that drain really well. BC: So like the grape, the struggle helps to produce a bettertasting tomato, along with the variety, heirloom, or otherwise. And taste, for us, is what it is all about. TS: Absolutely. And even with the grocery stores getting into the heirloom game, I think my tomatoes are better tasting. If you’re buying at the greenmarket or at a local farmers market, that is where you find the best-tasting options. BC: With farmers’ markets proliferating rapidly around the country and more and more farms selling direct to the consumer, it seems more people are fascinated

with farming itself, particularly younger people. TS: Definitely more people are interested in farming and small farms. I’ve had a lot of people who started working for me in their twenties and now have their own farms, which is a great development. It’s especially interesting when you consider the fight over the word “sustainability.” It’s between small farmers who say, “Hey, we’re not putting chemicals in the ground; it’s unsustainable to farm that way” and then the Monsantos of the world, who say, “Well we can’t feed the world unless we use all these chemicals. That’s unsustainable.” BC: That is the debate. TS: I have people telling me: “This is nice, Tim. You can feed all these rich people in New York City, but you can’t feed the world.” Bullshit—we’re not that expensive. I do think we (small farmers) can feed the world. If you get down to it, the most sustainable way to feed your people is to have local food production. That’s sustainability: small farms using innovative farming all year-round, such as growing winter crops and using greenhouses. I believe it. I’m doing it.

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L’ I n s t a n t C h a m p a g n e, w i t h Vi t a l i e Ta i t t i n g e r.

Reims, P l a c e R o ya l e .

an he ir loom is b orn the ecke rto n pepper

Discovered: 1994 Location: A Garden in Prospect Heights, Brooklyn Parentage: Cherry Pepper & Serrano Pepper Stablized: 2001 Progenitor: Tim Stark, Eckerton Hill Farm

= It was 1994 when Tim Stark, a Manhattan consultant and weekend gardener, discovered an unusual pepper growing among his serrano and cherry peppersâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;red like the cherry peppers, yet shaped like a serrano. When tasted, it had the heat of the serrano but a flavor all its own: bright citrus notes with a light earthy finish. Stark decided to save its seeds for replanting and over the course of the next seven years diligently harvested and replanted each round of seeds, until every last one reproduced the Eckerton pepper. An heirloom was born. Ask Tim for some at his Union Square Greenmarket stand.

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Swordfish with Heirloom Beans Serves 4

Chef de Cuisine Livio Velardo found heirloom borlotti beans at the Union Square Greenmarket this fall. These fresh beans are a real treat, and they found their way into a swordfish entree. Dried beans will work as well; simply soak them overnight. Swordfish is a fall favorite of Chef Portale when they are found off the coast of Montauk midsummer through early winter. Gotham procures special line-caught fish that are brought in daily. This year the swordfish is served among borlotti heirloom beans and a simple white wine emulsion. If borlotti beans are not readily available, Portale recommends dried or fresh Tarbais or cannelloni beans.

Roasted Thumbelina Carrots and cippolini onions

Swordfish

2 ounces olive oil

4 swordfish steaks, cut about 1-inch thick

6 pieces Thumbelina carrots, cut in half

2 tablespoons olive oil

12 pieces cippolini onions 2 sprigs thyme, picked 2 tablespoons chopped Italian parsley or chives In a 12-inch sauté pan over medium heat, heat the olive oil and then add both the carrots and onions. Sprinkle with thyme and lightly season with salt and pepper. Roast in a 375°F oven for about 12 to 15 minutes, stirring every 3 minutes. 1/2 bunch Swiss chard, large stems removed Cook in boiling salted water until tender. Place in an ice bath for 30 seconds, drain well, and chop.

Braised heirloom beans We use many types of fresh and dried beans—Tarbais, canary, cannelloni, cranberry, appaloosa, borlotti. It is important to note that each bean variety will need to cook for different lengths of time; therefore, when cooking this, you do want not mix varieties. 1 1/2 cups fresh beans, shelled or soaked 6–8 crushed garlic cloves 2 sprigs thyme 1/2 large carrot 1/2 Spanish onion 1 piece celery 4 ounces olive oil Cover ingredients with about 2 inches of cold water and bring to a simmer. Lightly season with salt and simmer the beans until they are tender. They should be creamy to the bite. Drain and set the beans aside. Discard the carrot, onion, celery, and thyme.

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Lemon butter sauce 1/3 cup dry white wine 2 tablespoons lemon juice 2 tablespoons heavy cream 1 stick unsalted butter, cut into 8 equal pieces

salt and pepper

Lightly salt and pepper swordfish steaks. Heat olive oil over medium heat. Place fish in oil and cook 3 to 4 minutes on each side. Spoon the bean and roasted vegetable mixture in four warmed bowls. Place swordfish steaks on top of the vegetables and sprinkle with chives or parsley. Extra sauce can be spooned on top.

Baby borlotti beans are a favorite of Italians. Though originally from the New World, the borlotti bean is used throughout Italy, Spain, and Portugal. The borlotti is a cousin of the cranberry bean with a sweet, nutty flavor and a dense, velvety texture. In Italy this bean finds its way into the classic vegetarian dish pasta fagioli. Tip: Salt beans only after cooking. Salting during cooking can cause the fresh beans to harden.

salt and pepper to taste Combine the white wine and lemon in a small saucepan. Cook over medium heat for 4 to 5 minutes, until reduced to about 2 tablespoons. Add the heavy cream, raise the heat, and bring to a boil. Immediately reduce the heat to low and, whisking constantly, stir in the butter one piece at a time. When all the butter has been added, pour the mixture through a fine mesh strainer. Keep warm and ready to use. In a separate pot, add the roasted vegetables, beans, and Swiss chard. Add enough white wine butter sauce to make a light stew.

BABY BORLOTTI BEANS Origins: Northern Italy Birth year: Unknown, circa 18th Century Species: Phaseolus Vulgaris

THE WALTHAM HEIRLOOM BUTTERNUT SQUASH Origins: Waltham, MA Birth Year: Circa 1950

Waltham Butternut Squash Soup Serves 4 to 6 Adapted from Alfred Portale Simple Pleasures

Species: Curcurbita Moschata Credited: Bob Young

This heirloom was developed by deliberately crossing a gooseneck squash with other squash varieties in the hopes of achieving a compact and uniformsized squash with a flesh that is easy and consistent to prepare. Developed near Waltham, Massachusetts, the heirloom has become a favorite of chefs and customers alike for its appealing flavor and texture— pleasingly buttery and nutty. Quite nutritious and hardy to boot, this squash can store up to six months.

2 tablespoons unsalted butter 1/2 medium onion, peeled and coarsely chopped 1 stalk celery, coarsely chopped 1 tablespoon fenugreek seeds, ground 1 tablespoon grated ginger 1 garlic clove, peeled and finely chopped 1/4 teaspoon ground cloves 1 large (about 6 pounds) butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and chopped into 2-inch pieces 1 quart chicken stock (or substitute vegetable stock for vegetarian option) coarse salt and freshly ground white pepper METHOD Melt the butter in a large heavy-bottomed pot set over medium heat. Add the onions and celery and sauté until softened but not browned, about 5 minutes). Add the fenugreek, ginger, garlic, and cloves and sauté for 1 minute. Add the squash and stock and season lightly with salt and pepper. Raise the heat to high. Bring the stock to a boil, then cover, lower the heat, and simmer until the squash is tender, about 20 minutes. Strain the soup through a fine mesh strainer set over a bowl, reserving the solids and liquid separately. Working in batches (if necessary), put the solids in a blender and process, adding some of the liquid until the mixture takes on a uniformly thick, smooth consistency. Season the soup with salt and pepper.

To Serve Ladle the soup into warmed wide, shallow bowl. Serve simply with a little olive oil and sea salt or garnish with a variety of combinations (the photo is garnished with pomegranate puree, sunchoke custard, and chervil; another option is diced apples, pumpkin seeds, and chives). It’s sure to warm you and friends through the winter months.

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THE ESopuS Spitzenburg Origins: Esopus, NY Birth Year: Late 17th to early 18th Century Species: Malus domestica Credited: Spitzenburg, a Dutch Settler

Apfel-StreuselKuchen Serves 8 to 10 In response to the recent heirloom apple craze, we conducted a little taste test with our pastry chef, Ron Paprocki. Each heirloom apple varies in terms of its sweetness or tartness and the crispness or softness of its flesh, dramatically affecting how the apple responds to being cooked. For instance, when baking a tarte tatin, Paprocki likes to use the Braeburn apple as it holds up to a longer baking time, maintaining its acidity and texture. When we came across the heirloom variety Espous Spitzenburg, best known for being our third president’s, Thomas Jefferson’s, apple of choice, Paprocki was inspired to make an apfel-streuselkuchen, a traditional German apple cake he remembers from his time training in Kassel, Germany. It is a simple pastry made with bread dough and fresh apples. Traditionally it is served simply with a little whipped cream. The cake can be made with any apple variety, but try it with Spitzenburg for a true slice of American history.

Bread Dough (Hefeteig)

Sliced Apples

2 cups all-purpose flour 2 tablespoons sugar

6 each Esopus Spitzenburg apples (if not available, any small size variety will work)

1/2 cup milk, room temperature

1 each juice from lemon

1/3 stick butter, room temperature

Peel and quarter the apples. Remove the core from each quartered apple and cut into thirds. Toss apples in lemon juice.

5 teaspoons fresh yeast 1 teaspoon salt Combine all ingredients in a KitchenAid bowl fitted with a dough-hook attachment. Knead on speed 1 for 2 minutes, followed by speed 2 for an additional 6 minutes. Place the dough on a lightly greased surface and cover for 10 minutes to allow the dough to relax. With a rolling pin, roll the dough to approximately 1/2-inch thickness. Carefully place the rolled-out dough on a flat baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Place a 10-inch cake ring over the dough and press firmly into the dough. Remove excess dough from the outside of the ring, leaving just the cake ring with dough inside.

Shingle the apples in a circular pattern, following the ring mold as a guideline. Spiced Streusal 1/2 cup butter, cold and cubed 3/4 cup sugar 1/4 cup all-purpose flour 1 each zest from lemon 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon Combine all ingredients in a mixing bowl. Hand mix until combined and a coarse crumble is formed. Sprinkle over the layered apple in the ring mold.

METHOD Place tart in warm environment at room temperature to allow the dough to rise, about 1 hour. Place the tart in 350°F preheated oven and bake for approximately 35 to 40 minutes.

Heirloom apple tasting in the Gotham pastry kitchen.

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Wine

Alsace:

Where Heirloom Is Vintage by Heidi Turzyn Gotham Wine Director Long resisting the temptation to sell to large conglomerates, the winemakers of Alsace regard their viniculture as a precious heirloom to be passed down from generation to generation.

One of France’s smallest wine regions, Alsace is tucked away on the west bank of the Upper Rhine on the northeastern border with Germany. The climate is sunny, semicontinental, and influenced by the low, verdant Vosges Mountains to the west and the Rhine River to the east. Caught in the political crossfire between France in Germany over the centuries, Alsace and its wine are a reflection of the two countries’ mixed heritage. The only region of France that follows the German tradition of naming their wines after varietals—such as Riesling, Gewurztraminer, and Pinot Gris— the wines themselves reflect the French preference for dry wine. It was Alsace that first opened up my eyes to the deep power of wine and drew me into the profession. Love at first sip, I still find the wines irresistible, and this past June I had the great pleasure of visiting the region. Like their wines, the people of Alsace are incredibly friendly, approachable, and decidedly honest. They let their grapes speak for themselves, resulting in a product that is more simple, direct, and less adulterated than many wines today. Here are a few of my favorite discoveries that now hold places on Gotham’s current wine list. One of the finest examples of Alsatian Riesling is the Trimbach Clos Ste. Hune. It’s made from 40-year-old vines passed down from Jean Trimbach, who founded the winery in 1626; his descendants Bernard and Hubert Trimbach make the wine today. Consistently considered one of the finest examples of Alsatian Riesling, the 2004 is a vintage I particularly like. It is elegant wine with white peach and apple notes among flint and honey.

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The Hugel & Fils family has been involved in every aspect of their business from winemaking to sales since 1639. Still growing strong, their 2007 Jubilee Riesling is another great example of a pure Riesling

While white wines are the most prevalent wine in Alsace, making up 90 percent of its wines, there are interesting reds as well, though the only nationally sanctioned grape varietal is Pinot Noir. One fine

from Alsace. This Riesling is leaner and has a tartness that reminds me of green apples and pear with a racy acidity, making it a great wine with food.

example is the Sang du Dragon Pinto Noir by Francois Baur, a ninth-generation wine producer. This wine, named for an ancient legend, is a lush medium-bodied wine with hints of red cherry and raspberry and a light earthiness.

The even older Domaine Weinbach was established in 1612 by Capuchin monks and later purchased by the Faller brothers in 1898. The women who run it today are direct descendants and carry on the reputation of being one of the great domaines in Alsace. Their 2011 Altenbourg Cuvee Laurence Pinot Gris is a full-bodied white with honey and floral notes, ripe stone fruits of apricot and peach, and a hint of smoke. It’s a bit decadent but with its backbone of acidity, the wine is quite balanced and lovely. Domaine Zind-Humbrecht’s tradition of passing down vines began in the 1620s. Current owner Olivier Humbrecht not only is the winemaker and proprietor but also happens to be a certified Master of Wine. His Gewürztraminer Turckheim Herrenweg Vieilles Vignes 2008 is highly aromatic with floral notes of rose petal, ginger spice, and lychee. This slightly sweet wine is a great option for foods with a spicy element.

Whether ephemeral wine or eternal jewels, from a remote ancestor’s relic to a beloved grandparent’s souvenir, beauty is often greatly enhanced by history. Every time you savor a wine from Alsace, I hope you also enjoy soaking in the centuries of care that make its wines so beloved.

Sylvaner Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru “Sotzenberg” Albert Seltz 2005 Riesling “Jubilee” Hugel 2007 Riesling “Clos Ste. Hune” Trimbach 2004 Riesling “Clos Ste. Hune” Trimbach 2005 Riesling “Turckheim” Zind-Humbrecht 2010 Riesling Grand Cru “Schlossberg-Cuvée St. Catherine” Domaine Weinbach 2010 Pinot Gris “Altenburg” Domaine Weinbach 2011 Pinot Noir “Obere Hund” Domaine Bechtold 2010 Pinot Noir “Sang du Dragen” Francois Baur 2009 Tokay Pinot Gris Vendanges Tardives “Altenbourg” Weinbach 2000

seasonal cocktail

privateer

hot mulled cider

2 cups farm cider (we use a cider made by Phillips Farms) 1/2 cup Mount Gay Black Barrel Aged Rum 1/2 cup Irish whiskey 2 ounces ginger syrup (equal parts fresh pressed ginger juice and simple syrup) 4 cinnamon sticks

Pour all contents into a small pot and simmer. It should take about 20 minutes for the cinnamon to start to soften and dissolve a bit into the liquid, and then it is ready to serve. Garnish with a cinnamon stick in the mug. Should serve between 7 and 10, depending on size of the pour and mug.

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[ba-dwah]: FRENCH FOR FINE BUBBLES

Location: The High Line Guests: 400 Food: New York-centric Selections

AN EVENT TO REMEMBER This past September, we were asked to create a menu that was New York City centric. Chef Portale went to work to create a special menu of canapés, food stations, and desserts that celebrated the culinary history of the city. The backdrop for our event was the New York City skyline as seen from the High Line.

“Since no two events are alike, we look at every event we do individually, working closely with the client to custom create the event they want.” —Brandon Lynn, Gotham’s Event Master

Chef Alfred Portale’s NYC-INSPIRED MENU THE SAN GENNARO Eggplant caponata crostini with Parmesan crisp EVERYTHING BAGEL Salmon rillete, scallions, sesame “KATZ’S” Pastrami lamb on rye LONG ISLAND DUCK TERRINE Black trumpet mushrooms and violet mustard MEATPACKING Prime beef tartare NEW YORK CHEESECAKE Concorde grape THE “CHIPWICH” Chocolate chip ice cream sandwich

COCKTAILS by Jeremy Hawn MANNAHATTA Bourbon, Pedro Ximénez Sherry, black walnut bitters THE BROOKLYN Old Overholt Rye, house-made amaro, maraschino, Dolin Dry Vermouth

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With a history that stretches back over 1,000 years, the Lantieri family boasts noble origins in the Brescian town of Paratico, where in the 1200s, the family erected their magnificent castle (pictured above). Dante penned verses of Purgtorio VII from his Divine Comedy while in residence there during political exile.

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on th e f r ont b u r ner

a rundown of goings-on and things to come from Gotham bar and grill

Farm Recipes and a Farmer’s Story

Get our latest recipe journal and Tim Starks’s story of becoming a farmer. Heirloom: Notes from an Accidental Tomato Farmer AND

Gotham Welcomes a new beverage department

We reintroduce Heidi Turzyn to our Gotham team. Heidi spent a couple of years bartending with us while she pursued a wine education. She returned to us this past August, now in the position of wine director. Most recently she was beverage director for David Burke, overseeing his New York properties while managing his flagship David Burke Townhouse program. We are pleased to welcome Heidi back to Gotham.

Greenmarket to Gotham Recipe Journal Limited Offer: $25 for both books shop.gothambarandgrill.com or call 212.620.4020

GOTHAM30 Beginning in March of 2014 we will launch a series of special events to celebrate our 30th year in New York. Hope you will celebrate with us. Keep up to date by signing up for our newsletter at gothambarandgrill.com.

Jeremy Hawn took over our cocktail program this past spring, and he has revamped and re-energized the bar scene at Gotham with an ever-evolving list of cocktails and spirits. Jeremy creates his cocktails using homemade ingredients, fine spirits, and local and seasonal produce. If he isn’t behind the bar, he’s probably concocting his next invention in the Gotham kitchen—or, as he calls it, the Gotham Lab. His inventive and playful cocktails are not to be missed.

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Publisher Michael Goldman

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GOTHAM journal A M A g A z i n e o f M o d e r n A M e r i c A n f o o d c u lt u r e

T h e d e v e lo p m e n T i ss u e

A Bouley and Tsuji Collaboration

TWO VISIONARIES, ONE CONCEPT

Super Potato

THE ESSENCE OF DESIGN

Rising Star

CHEF ISAO YAMADA

Healthy Japanese Ingredients FROM TOFU TO KELP

Fundamentally Pure Recipes: DASHI, TOFU MISO SOUP, AND CL EAR SOUP WITH DUMPL INGS GOT F12.indd 1

shaun Hergatt

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Neue LiviNg

food

a rt, c u i s i n e , a n d c u lt u r e t h r o u g h t h e e y e s o f c h e f K u rt g u t e n b r u n n e r

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at our table

Fall/Winter 2009–2010

t r av e l

C O N V E R S A T I O N S O N F O O D , W I N E , A N D C U LT U R E

G R E AT N E S S I S

bREWING When a sommelier and a master roaster form a coffee company

Editor-in-Chief Pamela Jouan Design Director Jana Potashnik BAIRDesign, Inc. Managing Editor Christian Kappner Assistant Editor Stephane Henrion Senior Copy Editor kelly suzan waggoner Contributing Writers Bret Csencsitz Cassandra Csencsitz Rachel Begelman Allison Brendel Heidi Turzyn

SHOW AND TELL: Behind the scenes of the Bacchus Group with Tim Stannard

A WORK OF ART

An Artist’s Passion

The Journey

ILLUMINATING THE WALLS

issue 1

Photography amanda gentile adgphotography.dphoto.com

Seeking the PERFECT CASK Team Bacchus unearths hidden treasures in Scotland

Bouley Gastronomique

The Light of Provence LANDSCAPES COME TO LIFE

M A R K E T S T RAT E G I E S Two chefs craft different delectable dishes with the same ingredients

The World Champion of Cheese

A MASTER AFFINEUR

Recipes : Che e s e F ondue And V e GeTA BL e s

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Bocuse d’Or usa i n s p i r i n g

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Illustration MICHAEL NELSON

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C E L E B RAT I N G C RA F T A N D F L AVO R W I T H M I C H A E L C H I A R E L LO

Attention to Detail CHIARELLO STyLE

Team Bottega ExpERIENCE AND ENERGy

The Wine Whisperer AMIGO BOB

Ultimate Wine Destinations

With a Twist

Grand Crus at Corton

BALANCING THE CLASSICS

Home Room

Grand Award-Winning List at Tribeca Grill

A pRIVATE DINING ExpERIENCE

BOT S12 1

7/31/12 10:18 AM

2 0 1 3

the good life

12/17/10 1:33:29 PM

A NEW EpicurEAN ExpEriENcE

L DV H o s p itaLit y R e stau Ran ts at R e V e L

divinediNiNg

full circle chef C E L E B R AT I N G C R A F T A N D F L AV O R

2 0 1 3

Myriad F10.indd 1

THE INNER CIRCLE I N t h e Q U eSt fo r P e r f eC t I N G r e D I eNtS

DEMYSTIFYING FINE DINING M A rCe L’ S P U tS G U eStS At eAS e

RECIPES

2 0 1 3

C h e f roB e rt W I eD M A I e r ’ S fAVo r It e D I Sh eS

FCC S13.indd 1

5/22/13 3:53 PM

LDV S13.indd 1

5/16/13 3:47 PM

connecting the epicurian world

2013

•

gotham journal

meethautelife.com

DDM S13.indd 1

chef david bouley SpriNg chlorophyll Soup With SWEEt pEAS, ASpArAguS, FAvA BEANS, AromAtic hErBS, ANd goldEN oSEtrA cAviAr

5/24/13 10:00 AM

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CH Â T E A U

PEYRABON Cru Bourgeois

is Our wine

the ur wine

mplexity o c e h t f o expression oir. of our terr

he expression

ichelet Xavier M er Winemak

the complexity

Château Peyrabon 2010 Wine Spectator (march 2013) - 91/100 “Rock solid, with a gutsy frame of roasted apple wood and a fullbodied core of plum, boysenberry and black currant fruit. Dense and chewy, displaying spice-studded grip on the finish that courses along vivaciously. Drink now through 2020. 15,627 cases made.”

our terroir.

www.peyrabon.com contact@chateau-peyrabon.com

CAMPAIGN FINANCED WITH THE SUPPORT OF THE EUROPEAN UNION