R U N WAY A N A LY S I S Featuring:
Silhouette Stitch Patt e r n
N E W YO R K • LO N D O N • M I L A N • PA R I S
Pringle of Scotland
SS19
SS19
R U N WAY R E V I E W:
W H AT ’ S K E Y • Layered looks whether a chunky cardigan or a sheer fine gauge twinset, layering offers a versatile transseasonal approach to knitwear. • Feminine crochet looks as a more subtle take on femininity work well for city and vacation appeal. • Longevity in knitwear pieces with subtle seasonal adaptations for longstanding staples.
W H AT W E B E L I E V E I N • Ease and comfort
• High-low hemlines and split side seams for versatile styling.
Ellery
Phillip Lim
• Feminine power dressing in head to toe colors
R U N WAY R E V I E W:
SS19
FITTED POLO NECK Give ease in the sleeve for a comfier fit
TRY IT OUT
H E A D -T O -T O E
Play in to solid color and pattern for a bolder look
FINE GG HIGH NECK Dare to bare in sheer or try sleek viscose for commercial direction
CHUNKY CARDIGAN Layering is key in both open stitch and pattern
AT M
To r y B u r c h
Po i r e t
Bally
Markus Lupfer
Our take on what shapes to test within the retail market and which to invest in for SS19. We highly believe in the relaxed crew as the biggest investment of the season as the silhouette holds such versatility for all customers.
RELAXED CREW
Offering versatility for all customers, invest in pattern, stitch and color
BUY IT BIG
RELAXED
SILHOUETTE:
MSGM
Whistles
Belstaff L i s a Pe r r y
Eckhaus Latta
CREW PULLOVERS
Camilla and Marc
E a s y s h a p i n g o f f e r s a c a s u a l f e e l w h i l s t s t y l i n g f e e l s m o d e r n a n d f e m i n i n e . Tr u e c r e w n e c k lines featured heavily in pullover shapes across the shows. Open cardigans give transseasonal layering options.
SOFT HUED TIE-DYE
EASY & EFFORTLESS
MIX STITCH P L AY BLDWN
Zoe Jordan
Anthony Thomas Melillo
Karen Walker
M . Pat m o s
BLDWN
Agnona
SPORT TIPPING
TRANSEASONAL APPEAL
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SILHOUETTE:
CHUNKY CARDIGAN
COOL L AY E R I N G
To r y B u r c h
The chunky cardigan was seen in mid thigh lengths in a combination of all over stitch and pattern interest. A key layering piece throughout the spring and summer with more open stitching for the later months.
Anthony Thomas Melillo
Bluemarine
St. Roche
TWINSETS
Missoni
Antonio Marras
Etro
STIPES W/ STITCHING To r y B u r c h
PAT T E R N MIXING
SILHOUETTE:
OVERSIZED
Cienne
Sportmax
Oscar de la Renta
BARDOT STYLING Calvin Klein
Oscar de la Renta
GENEROUS V-NECKS
Sonia Rykiel
Long, lean and wider shaping is a key theme across pullover and tunic shapes. Layering looks with skirts and dresses offers styling from day-to-night.
BOLD STITCHING
Isabel Marant Etoile
Études
Ji Oh
Rebecca Minkoff
WIDE SHAPES
Ambush
LONG & LEAN
E X AG G E R AT E D SLEEVES
MARL STRIPE EFFECTS
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TEE SHAPES S a l l y L a Po i n t e
Short and 3/4 length sleeves in clean t-shirt cuts complete high-waisted looks. The polo continues from SS18 as a statement item for a smart tailored appeal. Bold colors lift this smarter silhouette.
To r y B i r c h
S a l l y L a Po i n t e
CLEAN & FEMININE
Jason Wu
Brooks Brothers
Calvin Luo
S AT E E N FINISH
Eckhaus Latta
TAY LO R E D TO P P E R S
Rachel Antonoff
SILHOUETTE:
RETRO YOUTH
CDLM Nanushka
SLEEK CUTS
Derek Lam
M . Pat m o s
MODERN SPORT BLOCKING
Plan C
EASY TUNIC LENGTHS
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TA N K S
SILHOUETTE:
CROPPED CO/ORD
Markus Lupfer
Sandro
SLEEK CUTS
Pringle of Scotland
Erika Cavallini
L AY E R E D LOOKS
Alberta Ferretti
Ta n k s h a p e s o f f e r c o o l d r e s s i n g i n h i g h s u m m e r . S S 1 9 s a w t h e t a n k s h a p e a s a l a y e r i n g piece over shirting for earlier spring looks. New takes on the tank show a sportier racer cut for a slim form-fitting feel.
PAT T E R N P L AY
Pa c o Ra b a n n e
BOLD COLORS MGSM
Roberto Cavalli
Sonia Rykiel
HI-LO HEM
SPORTY LOOKS
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DRESSES
Mara Hoffman
SILHOUETTE:
Les Copains
Kwaidan Editions
Les Copains
SLIM & SLEEK
ChloĂŠ
The sweater dress silhouette offers styling that feels both wear-to-work and easy day-wear. This longer shape was seen in midi to maxi lengths with added high side split details for versatility.
Erika Cavallini
SPLIT SEAMS
Solace London
BLDWN
Markus Lupfer
V E R S AT I L E STY L E
HIGH NECKLINES
Balenciaga
Yigal Azrouel
EVOLVING ASSYMETRIC
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CO/ORDS
Head to toe dressing frequented the runways this SS19 season with looks including pants, skirts and shorts. This confident silhouette was seen in solid color and pattern offering both luxe feminine power dressing and softer loungewear style.
LOUNGEWEAR APPEAL
Baja East Bally
Markus Lupfer
Area
BOLD & FEMININE
Assembly NY
SILHOUETTE:
HEAD TO TOE COLOR STYLING
PAT T E R N P L AY Calvin Luo
Tibi
M Missoni
M Missoni
Rosetta Getty
P O W E R P L E AT S
17 |
STITCH:
SHEER
Dare to bare with sheer this SS19. Second skin looks in high necklines, playful pattern and stitch offer surface interest. A youthful appeal in fun pop colors styled over bralettes with a more modest look over tanks and shirting.
RTA
Balmain
Pringle of Scotland
SOFT SURFACE
Eckhaus Latta
TWINSETS
Cividini
Mira Mikati
Fay
CO LO R P L AY
RTA
Bevza
L AY E R I N G PIECES Alyx
Po i r e t
BOSS
BOSS
Esteban Cortazer
SECOND SKIN
HIGH NECKS 19 |
STITCH:
RIBS
A . P. C .
BLDWN
HEAD TO TOE COLOR STYLING
Dion Lee
Whistles
REFINED CUTS
Po i r e t
Yigal Azrouel
Ribs in both fine and chunky gauge were seen across the shows. Sleeveless tees offer refined feminine shapes. Scooped necklines and wider rib sets update for a sportier look. Chunkier styles keep femininity with wider and balloon sleeve shaping.
SIDE SPLITS
Vince
Prabal Gurung
SCOOPED NECKLINES
CHUNKY & ENGINEERED 21 |
Jason Wu
Solace London
Bluemarine
Sandro
STITCH:
CROCHET + OPEN WORK
OVERSIZED SHAPE
Sonia Rykiel
Ermanno Scervino
Michael Kors
Ermanno Scervino
Nina Ricci
SPORTIF CUTS
Dior
Open mesh stitching and classic crochet mainly in neutral tonality creates versatility across m u l t i p l e s i l h o u e t t e s h a p e s . Ta n k s t a k e o n a s p o r t i f c u t w h i l s t d r e s s e s s h o w f u l l l e n g t h l o o k s with layering options for both city and vacation appeal.
N E T- L I K E LOOKS
Louis Vitton
Phillip Lim
BOLD COLOR COMBOS Missioni
Altuzarra
Michael Kors
Sonia Rykiel
L AY E R E D DRESSING BEACH TO STREET
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PAT T E R N :
STRIPES
DENIM DRESSING
Gabriela Hearst
Roksanda
PH5
M . Pat m o s
Sonia Rykiel
BOLD BLOCKING
Derek Lam
Stripes were seen in a variety of layouts across the runways. Vertical and horizontal both create head to toe looks with bold color blocking. Multi-colored stripes offer playful outfitting whilst wider stripes give a more youthful and sporty feel.
WIDE STRIPES
Marta Jabuowski
Études
SPORTSWEAR STYLE
Sonia Rykiel
BLDWN
Rosie Assoulin
Y/Project
M I N I - M U LT I STRIPES
CO/ORD
25 |
B O L D STAT E M E N T S Pa rt o w Jil Sander
Missioni
Rocksanda
FINE ART MOTIFS
Derek Lam
PAT T E R N :
Minimalist fine art motifs were seen across different silhouettes this SS19 season creating statement graphics. Bold blocking in playful asymmetric layouts and checkered pattern in bright color pops also created confident bold looks.
A . P. C .
P L AY F U L L AYO U T S Adam Lippes
Zoe Jordan
Derek Lam
RtA
Prabal Gurung
Iceburg
STAT E M E N T BLOCKING BRIGHT CHECKS
27 |
PAT T E R N :
TRAVELLER
To d s
ORGANIC BLOCKING
Brunello Cucinelli
STITCH MIXING
Sacai
Preen
Global craft influences this trend with a multitude of techniques, patterns and styling. Stitch mixing, blocking and graphic takes on traditional prints are seen in earthy tones with bold color pops for a modern twist.
CRAFT INSPIRED Etro
Etro
Pa c o Ra b a n e
Ulla Johnson
MODERN GRAPHICS Coach 1941
FLORALS
Jonathan Cohen Kate Spade
The Great.
Kenzo
Kate Spade
JACQUARD R E P E AT S
CROCHET & APPLIQUE
Dolce & Gabbana
PAT T E R N :
Floral layouts in a variety of scales and techniques were seen across the shows. New takes on this pattern include using brighter bold pops and exploded floral layouts.
P L AY O N SCALE M U LT I - C O L O R MIXING Arthur Arbesser
Kate Spade
Pringle of Scotland
Pringle of Scotland
EXPLODED FLORAL
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F O L LO W U S O N I N STAG R A M @ B R I L L I A N T _ T R E N D
F O R M O R E I N F O R M AT I O N C O N TA C T: KAT I E JA N E B A I L E Y K J B A I L E Y @ B R I L L I A N T E M A I L . CO M LAURA CONNELL LAURACONNELL@BRILLIANTEMAIL.COM