Broadway+Thresher Issue 4

Broadway+Thresher Rural. Urban. Inclusive.

the food issue

yigit pura is tout sweet soups for any occassion eat your garden soundtracks to satiate Issue 4, February/March 2014

The rabbit-hole went straight on like a tunnel for some way, then dipped suddenly down, so suddenly that Alice had not a moment to think about stopping herself before she found herself falling down a very deep well.

Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland, Lewis Carroll

photo by Kurt Lawson

| legenerateur.4ormat.com

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j o urnal

e are all different. We are white and black. Asian and Latino. Middle Eastern and Native American.

Gay, straight, lesbian, transgendered, asexual, polyamorous, tall, short, thin, fat, troubled, successful, pretty, handsome, strong, weak, rich, poor, funny, boring, romantic, brutish, kind, mean.

We are labels.

Or at least, that is what we are told. We are all told that we are something, something that may not be who we are inside, so we hide it, or run away, or don’t accept it. We can’t always see who we are through the veil of others’ perceptions, and sometimes, that destroys the beauty of being individual.

Though, we do have connections that make us all nothing less than a wonderful community, able to provide support and strength to each other. That ability to aide another person is a common bond and is where kindness, compassion, empathy and love live. For those that need it repeated—kindness, compassion, empathy and love. What more can be worth living for?

But how do we get to that place? We look to the past and the lessons we can learn. February is Black History Month and B+T contributor Tracey Lewis asks, “What does Black History Month have to do with me?”

February and March also marks the Food Issue. Nothing brings people together like gathering around a table and breaking bread together. While there are a myriad of other ways, cooking for those you care about nurtures not only their body but soul. Love can be tasted in a loaf of bread, a delicious meal, or dessert.

Take time with family and friends this season. Take a chance and reach out to someone you think could use a smile, and always remember that Omnia vincit Amor. (Love conquers all.)

David+Andrew

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c ontents 4 ... journal 7 ... contributors 8 ... Black History Month 9 ... food+drink 37 ... farm+garden 51 ... fashion 61 ... music+art

features:

10 ... Yigit Pura is Tout Sweet 14 ... Menu Board 20 ... Savory Soups 30 ... Delectable Morsels 38 ... Eat Your Garden 56 ... Raw Materials 61 ... Songs to Satiate

-front cover and left image, and section covers by David Gobeli -back cover by Frankeny Images -front inside cover by Kurt Lawson model - Charmaine Lewis mua - Sarah Eudy stylist - Summer Lawson for Black Swan Theory dress - vintage; Black Swan Theory circlet - Heather Pencil Broadway+thresherfood2014.............5

Broadway+Thresher Co-Founders+Editors-in-Chief David Gobeli+Andrew Kohn Executive Editor Daniel W. Long Photo Editor Rachel Joy Baransi

The Blog BroadwayandThresher.com Subscribe BroadwayandThresher.com/subscribe Advertise BroadwayandThresher.com/advertise Customer Service info@BroadwayandThresher.com Contact David or Andrew David@BroadwayandThresher.com Andrew@BroadwayandThresher.com

Section Editors Ruth Coffey [Fashion] Nicole McGrew [Lifestyle] Mark Nickerson [Food+Drink] Anton Sarossy-Christon [Farm+Garden] Anne Sherwood Pundyk [Art] Meredith Peters [Music] Contributing Writers Emily George Emie Heisey Debi Ward Kennedy Lee Kirkpatrick Jenna Kelly-Landes Deven Rittenhouse Luke Smith Stephie Swope

Connect:

Contributing Editors Emily Blitzer Kristofer Bowman Brice Corder Jackie Alpers

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Reproductions in whole or in part without written consent is strictly prohibited.

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c ontri buto rs

Rachel Joy Baransi

Meredith Peters

Emily George

Evelyn Frolking

AntonSarossy-Christon

Ruth Coffey

Mark Nickerson

Lee Kirkpatrick

Nicole McGrew

Amy Patterson

Stephie Swope

Jenna Kelly-Landes txbeetree.com

racheljoybaransi.com

terravitafarms.com

blog.devereuxetfils.com

artifloragranville.com

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What Does Black History Month Have To Do With Me?

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Tracey Lewis

o what does Black History Month have to do with me?

I’m white/Asian/Latino/none of your beeswax!

Ok, ok, that’s a legitimate question—how do events that happened years ago in the South matter to people today?

Remember that Black History is American history; the two are as intimately intertwined as Mom and apple pie. And although the lens of remembrance past is often focused on civil rights superstars or slave-era heroes and heroines, a larger focal point might reveal sharper details in our portrait of America. The story of the long fight for racial equality was written by millions of everyday folks—black, white, Asian, Latino or Native American—people who saw that America failed to deliver on its promissory note, instead writing people of color “a bad check; a check which has come back marked ‘insufficient funds.” (Martin Luther King Jr., March on Washington “: I Have A Dream” speech, August 28, 1963) This year’s Black History Month holds special significance, as it celebrates the fiftieth anniversary of the 1964 Civil Rights Act, which prohibits discrimination on the basis of race, color, religion, sex or national origin. And from the thousands of acts of defiance by regular Americans against racially discriminatory Jim Crow laws, seeds were planted to defeat gender and sexual orientation bias decades later.

State by state, we now see marriage equality becoming the norm; the Lily Ledbetter Fair Pay Act restores workplace pay protections to women, ‘Don’t Ask Don’t Tell’ was repealed to great fanfare. It almost seems as if America has reissued that bad check, now marked “paid in full.”

Our collective history is filled with everyday Americans from rural hamlets to major cities and everywhere in between—brave abolitionists, college students at a lunch counter, World War II Navajo Windtalkers or Nisei men of the Fighting 442nd, to the regulars at Stonewall and unsung others who serve as an example for all who believe the promises embodied in the Constitution apply to us all.

So, as we flip our calendars, channels or blog pages, let’s take a moment to thank our fellow Americans for helping ensure that a government of the people, for the people and by the people shall not perish from this earth.

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food+drink

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Yi gi t Pu ra : Tou t Sweet

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Andrew Kohn | photos by Frankeny Images

igit Pura, winner of BRAVO’s Top Chef Desserts, found his love for pastry while growing up in Turkey.

When his family moved to California, he turned down a scholarship to New York University to enter the kitchen in San Francisco’s The Meetinghouse. From there, Yigit has worked in the kitchens of Le Cirque 2000, the Four Seasons Hotel, Restaurant Daniel and the Daniel Boulud Brasserie.

Still working in San Francisco, he currently calls Tout Sweet Pâtisserie home, infusing American flavors with French inspiration. Yigit says, “I want to make your heart smile from the moment you walk into our pâtisserie, lay eyes on our beautifully packaged pastries, cakes, verrines, cookies, tarts, pate de fruits, dessert sauces, fruit curds, jams, flavored marshmallows and other wonderful items.”

We sat down with Yigit and asked him about his personal inspiration, the future of pastry and what he eats when he isn’t mastering a macaron or perfecting a parfait.

B+T - Where do you draw your baking inspiration?

YP - Inspiration for me is everywhere. That’s what’s so exciting about pastry making. Whether it’s a musician, a poem or a favorite travel destination, I like to explore what they would taste like on a sweet palette. For example, my Tesla line was inspired by Nikola Tesla’s unique vision to translate electricity into power. From that I created my passion fruit, yuzu and meyer lemon “electric” flavor profile, that is showcased in a petit gateau, marshmallows, pâtes de fruit and other confections.

B+T - What is your favorite item to bake?

YP - Picking a favorite item is like choosing your favorite child. <laughs> My favorite item changes every month.

I’m always looking for the next best thing. I suppose it’s a blessing and a curse. I always try to get people excited to try our newest inspiration. But a few have struck a unique spot over the years, including our lavender pavlovas with lychee, our 5th element cake, and our Tesla tart. Each were created around a specific emotion, as opposed to a flavor pairing.

B+T - What was your favorite treat growing up?

YP - My favorite dessert of all-time comes from my homeland of Turkey. It’s called Tavuk gögsü and it is basically a dessert pudding made with chicken and milk. Add a little cinnamon on top and it’s perfection! A great chocolate-layered cake comes in at a close second!

B+T - What new ingredient trends can we expect for 2014?

YP - Why don’t you watch us at Tout Sweet and find out! (toutsweetsf.com) Broadway+thresherfood2014.............11

B+T - What’s your favorite casual meal?

B+T - At what age did you start working in the kitchen?

YP - I love Japanese food. Give me a great bowl of udon and I am completely satisfied.

YP - I began my culinary training in the pastry arts at the tender age of four in Ankara, Turkey. One of my fondest memories is of my mother making me a big spoonful of dark caramel. My first job in the United States was in the pastry kitchen at The Meetinghouse, a three-star San Francisco restaurant, where I worked for two years under chef and mentor Joanna Karlinsky.

B+T - Do you have a favorite restaurant and what’s on the menu do you love?

YP - San Francisco is such a foodie city! Thankfully we have a wide-range of excellent restaurants to choose from. I often go to Prospect for their cocktails and entrees, or Barbacco for their small plates. Both restaurants deliver beautifully.

B+T - How important is family in your life? Who introduced you to your love of baking?

YP - Family is everything. Be it my sister who’s my best friend in life, my loyal dog Maui, or my family at Tout Sweet who help me to create and push the envelope every day. I was introduced to baking since I was a toddler as our house was always full of family baking and cooking feasts, in the best Turkish fashion. But it was my father who really pushed me to pursue my dreams, no matter how unconventional, or crazy as they may have seemed. For this I’m grateful everyday!

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B+T - What are your plans for the future?

YP - I’m hoping to expand Tout Sweet to several locations across the United States and internationally!

B+T - Do you have a cookbook in the works?

YP - Yes, I do have a cookbook in the works. It is titled Sweet Alchemy and will be coming out in early 2014. I wanted to break down the barriers for intimidation which people have when it comes to making really special desserts. I want to show people that they can create really wonderful desserts at home, given they can be patient, follow some simple science, and of course, by putting lots of love in it.

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M e n u Boa rd: Sp ri ng i s i n th e Air

Mark Nickerson | photos by Rachel Joy Baransi, David Gobeli

W

elcome to the food and drink edition of Broadway+Thresher. We are excited to present a diverse menu board for you in this issue. As we all try to shake off the last of the winter blahs we’ve tried to offer up some choices that will still warm you from the inside out without resorting to the heavy winter fare that has kept us through the colder months. We also know that, like us, many of you have resolved to eat better this year. Hopefully your resolution has survived any January backslides and you are ready to try some new recipes to keep your menu different and exciting.

The menu begins with blue cheese stuffed dates with calabrese salame and a drizzle of balsamic vinegar reduction.

The bold flavors will certainly awaken even the most deeply hibernating of palates.

The main course highlights the oft overlooked and very versatile white fish. Here we’ve roasted the fish whole and served it alongside of some spring asparagus, carrots and fingerling potatoes with a tart cherry gremolata. The fresh spring vegetables make for a bright counterpoint to the mild fish. While a natural wine pairing for a lighter fish like this would be a pinot grigio or basic chardonnay, you might find that a Semillon with its stone fruit and honey notes or even a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc will also pair well not only with the fish, but will also bring out the sweetness in the carrots and asparagus.

And finally, speaking of sweetness and since we can’t all be good all the time, for dessert we present a biscuit topped blueberry cobbler. Best served warm, this juicy and decadent fruit cobbler is the perfect antidote to a late cold snap.

Elsewhere in this issue look not only for the five soup feature mentioned before, but also drink recipes from Emily George and five miniature desserts from Stephie Swope our newest Broadway+Thresher F+D contributor. As always, we hope you enjoy these recipes in good health and look forward to your feedback. Please send your comments, suggestions and recipes to Mark@BroadwayAndThresher.com.

fresh baguette, tart cherry gremolata Broadway+thresherfood2014.............15

Gorgonzola Stuffed Dates with Balsamic Reduction

Sour Cherry Gremolata

thin sliced salumi such as soppresata, calabrese (as shown) whole dates gorgonzola dolce 2 cups balsamic vinegar

1 cup sour cherries 1 bunch parsley juice of ½ a lemon, plus zest ½ teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon ground black pepper 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 2 cloves garlic, minced

For reduction: pour balsamic vinegar into medium pot. Bring to a boil and reduce by three-fourths, or until the remaining liquid is thick and syrupy.

To assemble dates: using a sharp paring knife, cut datethrough to center, lengthwise. Remove pit if dates are unpitted. Take a small amount of gorgonzola and stuff the inside of the date. Repeate with desired number of dates and place on non-stick foil lined baking sheet. Broil for 2-3 minutes, 3” from the heat source. The top of the date should just start to brown and bouble.

To serve: on serving plate arrange salumi in desired way.

Arrange hot dates on top, and then drizzle lightly with vinegar reduction.

Serve immediately.

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Place all ingredients into the bowl of a food processor and pulse until parsley and cherries are of equal size.

Spoon into a bowl and cover, refrigerating for at least 2 hours before serving.

Roast Spring Veg with Sour Cherry Gremolata

Whole Roasted Whitefish

young carrots, halved fingerling potatoes, halved radishes, halved thin asparagus, ends trimmed olive oil kosher salt freshly ground black pepper

1 whole whitefish, cleaned 1 lemon, thinly sliced 2 tablespoons olice oil 2-4 sprigs fresh parsley salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preheat oven to 425째F. In large bowl toss carrots, potatoes, radishes, olive oil, and healthy sprinklings of salt and pepper. Arrange in a single layer on a parchement paper lined baking sheet. Roast, on the middle rack centered inteh oven, for 20 minutes.

Preheat oven to 425째F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Brush oil over the skin of the fish then place on the baking sheet. Sprinkle salt and pepper into the cavity of the fish, then place sliced lemons and parskey in. Sprinkle the skin of the fish with salt and pepper also.

Roast 15-25 minutes, or until the flesh releases easily from the bones.

Toss asparagus with oil, salt and pepper and add to the baking pan. Roast for another 7-10 minutes or until the root vegetables are fork tender and the tips of asparagus slightly softened.

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Blueberry Cobbler 6 cups blueberries 1 cup sugar, plus 2 tablespoons for biscuit topping 8 tablespoons butter 1 cup self-rising flour 1/4 teaspoons salt 3 tablespoons butter 1/3 cup buttermilk Preheat oven to 375째F. In a large mixing bowl mix blueberries and sugar. Pour berries into a baking dish or saute pan.

In a clean bowl add flour, sugar, salt, and butter. Using a pastry blender cut butter into the flour, until the mixture resembles cornmeal. Add in buttermilk and mix gently.

Scoop dough onto the blueberries.

Bake for 25-30 minutes or until the blueberries are bubbly and biscuits are browned. Let sit 10 minutes before serving.

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Savor y So ups

Mark Nickerson | photos by Martha Compton and David Gobeli

C

ast off the late winter gloom and dig into a bowl, or pot, of warming soup. Now that winter is slowingly waning, lighter takes on classic soup recipes produce satisfyingly bright and filling soups, minus the cream, fat, and spices that we crave in the more frigid cold.

French onion, potato and pancetta, Asian prawn, classic chicken noodle, and creamy tomato round out the selections of B+T’s favorite soups. A whole meal can be made with a bowl of soup and hunk of fresh crusty bread.

Nothing beats a pot of soup on the stove, and a bowl in the belly.

French Onion 3 large yellow onions 2 cloves garlic, minced 4 cups beef stock ½ cup dry vermouth 1 bay leaf ½ teaspoon dry thyme Salt and pepper to taste ½ cup grated Gruyere or smoked sharp Provolone cheese 2 tablespoon olive oil In a a large pot, caramelize onions in oil, about30 minutes or until onions are soft, translucent and deep brown. Add garlic near the end of.

Add stock, vermouth, and herbs. Simmer for 45 minutes.

Add salt and pepper to taste, allowing to simmer another ten minutes.

Serve soup and garnish with cheese. Serve with roasted French bread. Optionally if you have oven safe bowls, you can increase the amount of cheese on the soup and place bowls under broiler for 5-10 minutes prior to serving, until cheese is just beginning to brown.

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Creamy Tomato Basil

Potato and Pancetta

4-5 large tomatoes 32 ounce bottle of tomato juice ¼ cup fresh basil leaves ½ cup heavy cream ¼ cup unsalted butter ¼ teaspoon thyme salt and pepper to taste

4-6 large thin skinned potatoes, peeled and quartered.

3 cups evaporated milk ¼ cup butter 1 tablespoon course ground black pepper 1 teaspoon ground coriander Salt to taste 2 slices thick cut pancetta, diced ½ pound ground sausage Chives as a garnish (optional)

Peel and dice tomatoes, removing pulp. In a large stock pot, add tomatoes and juice. Simmer over medium-low heat for 45 minutes, stiring occasionally. Add basil and stir.

In blender, puree soup until smooth. Return to cleaned pot.

Place potatoes in a large stock pot with enough salted water to cover, plus ½ inch. Bring to a boil, then lower heat to a gentle simmer for 15 minutes, until tender.

Raise heat to medium and add cream, butter, salt and pepper and thyme. Heat, while stirring, until butter it melted. Serve with buttered toast points.

Remove pot from heat and mash the potatoes with the water.

Add milk and butter and continue to mix together. Add pepper, coriander and salt. Reduce heat to low simmer.

In a large skillet, brown pancetta. Add meat to soup and simmer 30 minutes stirring often.

Serve and garnish with chopped chives if desired.

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Prawn and Asian Noodle

Classic Chicken Noodle

4 cups chicken or vegetable broth 8-12 large prawns, peeled and deveined ½ cup napa cabbage, finely shredded 6-8 shiitake mushrooms, sliced 8-10 spring onions, greens only, chopped.

4 cloves of garlic, minced ¼ cup ginger, peeled and minced 2 tablespoons soy sauce 2 tablespoons fish sauce 4-6 dried red chilis 1 cup udon noodles, cooked

2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 medium yellow onion, diced 2 stalks celery, diced 2 medium carrots, peeled and sliced 1 whole chicken, cooked and shreded 1 bay leaf ½ teaspoon dried thyme 1 ½ quarts low-sodium chicken stock salt and greshly ground black pepper, to taste 8 ounces egg noodles, cooked to package directions finely chopped parsley

Bring broth to a boil with garlic, ginger and peppers.

Reduce to simmer and add mushrooms, soy sauce and fish sauce, simmering for 10-15 minutes

Heat large soup pot over medium heat. Add onion, celery and carrot. Cook until softened but not browned, about 5 minutes. Add remainging ingredients, except for noodles.

Bring to a boil, then lower to a simmer. Cook for 30 minutes.

Add noodles, cabbage, spring onions and prawns to soup.

Simmer for five minutes or until prawns are all pink and fully cooked.

In warmed bowls, add cooked noodles. Ladle soup over noodles, sprinkle with parsley, and serve.

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The Sec ret Li fe of Cheese

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Jenna Kelly-Landes | photos by Andrea Hunter Photography

t is 5:30 in the depths of a sleeting, 28-degree morning.

Daylight has not yet broken, the sun visible only as a thin, water-colored line of salmon on the lip of the horizon.

I’m wrapped in two layers of clothing and my polka-dot flannel pants stuffed into manure covered rubber boots. A woolen hat, strapped down firmly with a headlamp, is pushed against the top of my glasses, so close to the tip of my nose that the lenses fog with each exhale. Clad in this elegant attire, I am perched on the edge of a wooden milk stand; shoulder nudged into the side of a well-fed goat whose body heat penetrates the layers. She is keeping me warm. I am crouched over a silver pail illuminated by my headlamp, two frozen hands gently milking a doe that grunts quietly while eating her grain. A fierce wind pummels my face, sending chips of ice onto unprotected cheeks, and I shudder against the pain of pricked skin. Cursing into my scarf, I look up momentarily from this task to wallow in the moment, which is, truly, a ludicrous way to pass the time at such an hour, in such unforgiving weather. A singular purpose motivates this endeavor; a passion shrouded in history, steeped in tradition, and rooted in a quest for food. I’m out here for the love of cheese.

Unfortunately, I have no memory of my first encounter with cheese. It was probably presented on a plate in small yellow chunks alongside a piece of apple. Maybe cubed uniformly for my chubby baby hands to handle and shove indelicately into my mouth. I assume those little orange cubes came off a rectangular hunk, wrapped tightly in plastic, purchased from a sprawling display of non-descript blocks of perfectly structured, mechanically created cheeses for sale in our town’s only grocery store. The sort of utilitarian cheese that invokes nothing beyond serving as salty companion to whatever is starring in the meal; a slab of meat, a heavy sauce, or vegetables. That is not the sort of cheese that sends me out to the milk stand on icy mornings. For those trips, for the care given my dairy animals, for the books I have scoured, for the recipes I have (mis)interpreted—I am searching for something entirely more unique.

Cheese is the unfathomable link back to nascent agrarian culture, a concept that feels galaxies away from the shrinkwrapped bricks piled alongside factory-farmed bologna at the grocery store. It is believed that the first cheeses were a happy accident derived from early, semi-sedentary farmers.

Goats were among the original domesticated livestock and dried baby goat (kid) stomachs were used as canteens to store water or milk. The lining of the fourth stomach of baby ruminants, such as cows and goats, contains rennet, an enzyme that makes milk more digestible through the process of curdling. When milk was stored in the dried kid stomachs, contact with the rennet caused it to coagulate into a solid form that was, probably, delicious. Native cultures present in raw, un-pasteurized milk, would have added additional flavor Broadway+thresherfood2014.............25

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to the accidental cheese inside these canteens. The cultures would also help preserve the dairy product, extending its life and creating a new and fascinating form of food. Eventually molds would make their way into the cheese, possibly some seasoning, and human ingenuity, curiosity, and creativity would do the rest. Artisanal cheese was, arguably, born thousands of years before civilized society existed. It is that cheese, crafted simply from animals raised alongside the homestead, valued above currency, treasured as family, nurtured as children—it is that cheese that draws me from bed into unsavory weather. Clutching silver buckets, steaming with sweet, fresh milk, I tip toe back into a sleeping household, strain the contents carefully, chill it quickly and eventually begin the ancient, but better studied, practice of nudging milk into its next, more complex, expression.

Artisanal cheese has experienced an American Renaissance over the recent decades, catching up with a tradition that has been practiced across Europe (spread through the Roman culture) for centuries. There, particularly in France, cheese is woven into the cultural fabric, flavored by a careful relationship between history, place, and the animal giving the milk. In fact, the French government protects this relationship carefully, acknowledging the fundamental importance of terroir, or the distinct flavors imparted by natural elements specific to different geographical regions. For example,

Roquefort cheese is one of many French cheeses designated with an A.O.C, appellation d’origine controlle, meaning no other cheese can use this name in France if created outside of a certain region of the country. Many cheeses are simply impossible to replicate because the molds and cultures that establish their flavor and aromas exist in the environment of a particular place, such as Cowgirl Creamery’s Red Hawk made only in Point Reyes, California, created by a bacteria unique to the area.

Hand-crafted, artisanal cheese does not purport to be the same every time it is consumed or created. Its flavors are dictated by season, by the hand that guides the process, by the animal producing the milk, by the food that she ate. Deep within damp aging caves perch rows of imperfectly shaped rounds (or squares, or pyramids, or obelisks) of cheeses, festering carefully under the gentle eye of an affineur— the person responsible for aging cheese. Recipes passed through generations impart small, but significant, changes to the fundamentally simple ingredients present in all cheese (milk, coagulant, culture, salt) to create spectacular distinctions.

I consider all of this every time I milk my goats. I consider the simple act of milking, crouched beside a warm animal that smells of hay and sun. I sense the tendrils of connection Broadway+thresherfood2014.............27

to farmers who crouched this same way decades, centuries, epochs before me. The milk created here is no different, although absolutely unique because it is from here, will be tinged slightly by the season, the sweetness of grass or bitter weed eaten. Later, when heating the milk to prepare it for cheese making, I spread the required salts and cultures across my counter and wonder if itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s maybe easier to go out to the grocery store and buy a perfect rectangle, already made, created from animals no one namedâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;stirred, sterilized, and wrapped by machine.

But I prefer the small-batch stuff. From these I glimpse a flavor of the day it was crafted. Those wedges, whether hardened with time, or oozing with ripeness, or smudged blue with mold, are small storybooks of a farm and a farmer, an animal and a pasture. They contain secrets passed from the beginning when man lived with beast, and they fed each other.

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D ri n k: Step i nto Spring

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Emily C. George | photo by David Gobeli

have worked up a version of a Manhattan using Imbue (a bittersweet vermouth out of Oregon) with Mellow Corn (100% Corn Whiskey out of Kentucky) and Angostura Orange Bitters. The idea was to create a cocktail that would be light enough to play along with the fish but bold enough to stand up to roasted vegetables. The end result is an appropriately boozy cocktail with bright, vegetal flavors and a citrusy finish.

Step into Spring 2 oz. Imbue Bittersweet Vermouth 1 oz. Melow Corn White Whiskey 4 - 5 Dashes Angostura Orange Bitters Combine ingredients in mixing glass. Add ice cubes and stir to chill. Strain over fresh block ice into a rocks glass, garnish with fresh orange twist.

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D e l e c ta bl e Mors el s ; Ca kes +T arts

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Stephie Swope

am a born-and-bred Midwestern girl, as is my mother. Her mother, however, was born and raised in Mississippi, a fact that has shaped not just the way we were raised, but also the way in which we eat and the ingredients that we use in our recipes. Nuts, in particular, have always been a bit of a signature ingredient for our family.

One of my mother’s most poignant memories of her childhood is from when she was in kindergarten. She was sick for most of the fall; her doctor thought that some warmer weather and fresh air would do her some good, so her grandmother (my great-grandmother) took her back down to Mississippi for the month of November. My great-greatgrandfather owned a pecan orchard at the time (among other entrepreneurial pursuits, including one of the state’s first dairy farms to utilize milking machines), and my mother can recall spending a large portion of the month shelling pecans with her grandmother and storing them in pillowcases to take back to Indiana at the end of the month.

I suppose you could say that it was in my genes to love pecans—and all varieties of nuts. They add depth, richness, and, of course, protein and healthy fats to any dish, and their flavor lends them especially well to pairing with sugar, berries and citrus. Desserts are their true calling.

We’re starting off with an old family recipe for pecan tassies.

These bite-size pecan pies have always been a favorite with their rich flavor and their flaky crust. Unlike most pecan pie recipes, the filling does not call for corn syrup, keeping them lighter in taste.

Further lightening things up are mini blackberry hazelnut meringue cakes. Meringue cookies are transformed into two-bite cakes with the help of blackberry jam and a dollop of freshly whipped cream. Aside from being one of the most gorgeous gluten-free mini desserts you could make, they ensure that everyone at your party has something in which they can indulge, but are delicious enough to please even the most devoted wheat-lover.

Nut flours make the perfect base for gluten-free tart shells, and almond flour is perfectly paired with lemon curd in lemon almond tartlets. While you could certainly make your own homemade lemon curd, there is no shame in a few shortcuts when planning a party and store-bought lemon curd will work just as well in these tiny tarts. Trust me, no one will notice, especially after they take a bite of mini walnut cakes with orange cream cheese frosting. These dense cakes, filled with walnuts and golden raisins, are brightened up from the citrus in the frosting and are a perfectly indulgent way to end any party.

For recipes visit broadwayandthresher.com/delectablemorsels Broadway+thresherfood2014.............31

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Sp ri nkles!!!

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roadway+Thresher contributor Jackie Alpers has recently released her new cookbook “Sprinkles: Recipes and Ideas for Rainbowlicious Desserts”. This mouth-wateringly gorgeous book may be the first cookbook dedicated to the art of adding fun and whimsy to your baking through the liberal and creative application of sprinkles.

Learn to embroider your cookies with sprinkles, swirl them through your waffles, and enliven your formerly drab piecrusts with these bright pops of delicious color. Additonally, the book provides tips on tinting sugars, rimming cocktail glasses, and even making your own sprinkles. We are pleased to feature one of her recipes from the on the Food+Drink blog this month and encourage you to secure your copy of this fun cookbook today!

When sprinkles (aka jimmies) are folded into cake better, they typically melt away during baking, leaving behind little confettilike poufs of color. In this deconstructed version of the birthday cake the crusts are removed to show off the sprinkles hidden inside. Visit our Food+Drink blog for this recipe and then buy Jackie’s book on Amazon for a load of delicious others.

“What is extraordinary and makes the book a worthy addition for anyone who is really involved in creativity in baking, especially if you have children or a friend or spouse with a sweet tooth, is the decorating tips.”—The Sun News

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fa rm+ga rden

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Pl a n ts You Can E at

Anton Sarossy-Christon | photos by David Gobeli and Anton Sarossy-Christon

T

his year I’m challenging everyone I know to grow at least one plant, tree, or shrub that’s new to them.

After all, what’s the point of sticking to what you know when there’s a whole world of new tastes waiting to be, well, tasted? I always tell my customers at the farmers market when they comment on the unusual selections I offer that my goal is to introduce them to new produce varieties and in so doing I shy away from any available at the super market. It’s in this spirit of adventure that I’m presenting my 2014 Plants You Can Eat list. I’ll be growing most of these this year, some for this first time, and others as tried-and-true garden favorites. I’ve focused quite a bit on trees and shrubby plants because they’re easy to care for once established, reliable, and continue giving year after year.

The vegetable varieties listed below are all available through one of my favorite seed retailers, Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds, unless otherwise noted and can be grown year after year if you save the seed.

I’ve never failed to convert a doubtful guest at my table about the benefits of growing one’s own asparagus after they’ve tasted mine. Fresh asparagus is sweet, the only perennial plant in my vegetable list, and is also the first vegetable of the year, confidently poking its spears up, as if in defiance of winter’s chill. Order crowns over seeds and if given the choice select an all male variety as it puts all its energy into growing spears for the following year rather than setting seed that will inevitably fall to the ground and sprout turning your asparagus bed into an untidy mess. For a purple variety try growing ‘Purple Passion’ or ‘Pacific Purple’ (Johnny’s Selected Seeds) for a colorful change. Another benefit, asparagus beds produce for twenty years or more!

Give purple bush beans a try this year—they’re tasty raw or lightly steamed and you’ll entrance the kids by showing them how the purple beans magically turn green when dropped into boiling water. ‘Velour’ is an especially beguiling variety.

Chinese long beans can grow up to twenty inches long, are tasty diced into a stir fry. Grow the vines on a trellis and the beans will always be within reach without ever having to bend. ‘Chinese Red Noodle’ will catch everyone’s attention and even keeps its color when cooked.

Cauliflower is a finicky plant to grow but one that makes you feel like a master gardener when successful. You’ll feel doubly proud bringing in a bright purple head of ‘Purple of Sicily’. It also turning bright green when cooked.

Want more lycopene in your diet? It’s most often found in tomatoes, but some carrot varieties carry a hefty dose too.

‘Atomic Red’ grows tasty eight inch roots that will also add color to your meals.

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heirloom carrots

‘winter luxury pie’ pumpkin

Hundreds of eggplant varieties are available and it’s best to choose based on your recipe. In summer I love grilling long Asian eggplants with a miso glaze or making Baba Ganoush with the meatier varieties. I’ve found ‘Ping Tung’ and ‘Rotonda Bianca Sfumata Di Rosa’ never disappoint.

pumpkins are pretty enough to use as decorations but once you taste one I doubt it’ll around for very long.

I’ve never tasted huckleberry pie, but I’m changing that this year. A member of the nightshade family, Solanum melanocerasum isn’t the true huckleberry but reputedly makes a good substitute. Easy to grow, and easy to eat in pies, it’s finding a place in my garden this season.

If you have room for the vines to spread, you’ll amaze friends this summer with a vividly colored slice of ‘Orangeglo’ watermelon. It’s one of the tastiest watermelons I grow and never fails to start a conversation. If you’re feeling spunky, you might grow white, yellow and pink colored watermelon varieties alongside for a truly colorful watermelon fruit salad.

Another vining plant to add alongside the watermelon patch is ‘Winter Luxury Pie’ pumpkin, one of the tastiest pumpkins to come around in the last 121 years. Debuted in 1893, it’s best described by Amy Goldman in her book The Complete Squash, “That outrageous trophy fruit stalk is the perfect counterpoint to her modest and petite curvaceous form. She sits pretty, oh, so pretty, draped in exquisite lace.” These 40.............Broadway+thresherfood2014

For two years running, ‘Blush’ tomato has had the most positive feedback from friends and customers. This roma shaped tomato has a base of light yellow touched with streaks of red and green. The fruits are sweet and fruity.

What would summer be without corn? Sweet corn is awash in both the stores and farmers’ markets but what you won’t find is ‘Oaxacan Green’ or ‘Earthtones Dent’ (Johnny’s Selected Seeds). Both of these corns can be ground into flour or cornmeal. Also from Johnny’s is ‘Red Beauty’ popcorn.

Both the husks and seeds are shaded pink to red but when the kernels pop—they’re white!

Moving from annuals to something more permanent, no garden is complete without an orchard—no matter how small.

People often shy away from planting a fruit tree thinking they won’t live in one place long enough to enjoy the fruit. The best advice to follow is to plant at least one fruit tree or shrub every year. It’s advice you’ll live to enjoy. The first house I every bought I sold to a chef. I had planted several fruit trees, among them a ‘Bartlett’ pear tree that had some setbacks over the years so I never tasted the fruit. Fast forward about 8 years: Last fall I was working at my farmers’ market stand

when the same chef who bought my house presented me with a brown paper bag of ‘Bartlett’ pears from the tree I planted years before. Never have I had such a meaningful gift. They were the best pears I’ve ever eaten. The trees listed below can be found at Raintree Nursery unless otherwise noted.

Supermarket blueberries are decidedly one-note, usually sour. Growing your own allows you to pick them when they’re soft, sweet, and flavorful. You’ll taste blueberries for the first time all over again. ‘Toro’ sports jaunty flowers that start out pink and turn white followed by a heavy crop of blueberries ripening in late July. Both the foliage and bark turn red in the fall giving you a 4-6’ shrub with four seasons of interest.

You’ll have enough raspberries for pies, jam, and breakfast while the birds will look elsewhere to feast if you grow ‘Cascade Gold’, a yellow-fruited variety. The berries look and taste like red raspberries, just gold.

If you imagine scrapes and thorns when the word blackberry is mentioned, you might give ‘Triple Crown Thornless’ a try. I’ve grown these for years and still can’t believe how big, juicy, and fragrant the fruit is. You’ll have to put up a trellis to discourage the long canes from rooting at the tips but that’s also a handy way to increase your stand. Vigorous plants minus the thorns bearing fruit over a long season make this variety one of my favorites.

Red currant jelly is delightful. The shrubs stay small and tidy looking great as a foundation plant. The bright, shiny, red berries are easy to see when harvesting. ‘Red Lake’ is an old variety that never disappoints (Burpee).

pollination—‘Foxwhelp’ is a good choice. Trees of Antiquity has an impressive collection of cider apple trees.

If pressing apples for hard cider has peaked your interest, I’d like to introduce you to another fermented beverage: perry, made from fermented pears—like pear flavored champagne.

It’s almost impossible to find in the U.S. but is popular in the United Kingdom and France. You’ll need to plant more than one variety for cross-pollination so choose between ‘Butt’, ‘Hendre Huffcapp’, and ‘Yellow Huffcapp’.

Fans of quinces are forced to pay exorbitant prices for them in the stores making it seem as though they’re difficult to grow.

Nothing is further from the truth. Quince trees are hardy and productive with many cultivars available to the home gardener. ‘Limon’ is a fairly new lemon-shaped variety from Turkey that has the benefit of early ripening--September.

I’m hoping this will be the year my ‘White Doyenne’ European pear will bloom and fruit. It’s the favorite pear of chef ‘Alice Waters’ and has been described as: “like a buttery chardonnay, sweet yet tart, with musky undertones and a strong perfume.” Plant a second variety for cross-pollination, try Trees of Antiquity for other pedigreed varieties you can pair up with ‘White Doyenne’.

Crisp, juicy and floral are words often used to describe Asian pears. Since most are not very familiar with these tasty fruits, plant a “combo” that has 4-5 varieties grafted onto one tree.

autumn olive berries

Black currants are impossible to find unless you have them growing in your back yard. Turn them into a sweet syrup for an authentic French Kir or make it a Kir Royale by substituting champagne for white wine—top with a splash of your homemade black currant syrup. ‘Hilltop Baldwin’ is an award winning English variety that gives high yields and is packed with vitamin C. Mulberries are too fragile to ship but having a tree in your backyard will give you more than enough to share with your friends. ‘Illinois Everbearing’ is a productive variety hardy to -30F and gives fruit from July through September.

Surprise your guests by adding serviceberries to green salads and desserts. These berries look almost like blueberries but grow on small trees 10-12’ tall. ‘Thiessen’ grows large tasty fruit in quantity ensuring there will be berries left over for you after the robins descend! Serviceberries have beautiful white flowers in the spring, tasty fruit in summer, and very attractive fall foliage.

Hard cider is making a comeback in the U.S. and there’s no reason you can’t make your own. ‘Kingston Black’ can be used on its own to make a single varietal cider. Trees are grafted onto dwarfing rootstock keeping them of manageable size anywhere. Plant a second variety for crossBroadway+thresherfood2014.............41

‘white doyenne’ european pear | photo by raintree nursery

You’re guaranteed cross-pollination and a variety basket at harvest time.

Flat or Donut peaches are originally from China. Difficult to find in stores, the fruit has decidedly floral overtones.

‘Saturn’ bears fruit with white flesh and has showy double pink blooms in the spring.

Medlars are fruits for the truly adventurous gardener and have been enjoyed since medieval days. The fruits can only be eaten after having been bletted. Bletting is a ripening process that takes place after the fruit has been harvested.

Place the fruit in a dry, dark place and allow to blet, or ripen, until soft. The flesh can then be scooped out of the fruit and eaten or used to make jam. ‘Macrocarpa’ produces some of the largest fruit.

One of few cacti hardy in the north, Prickly Pear produces not only tasty nutritious fruit, but the cactus pads can also be used to make a popular Mexican dish called nopalitos.

If you’re looking to plant something completely different, I suggest trying your hand at growing truffles. Truffle oaks and filberts inoculated with truffle spores are now available for sale on this side of the Atlantic. Garland Truffles in North Carolina will sell to the home producer while other nurseries 42.............Broadway+thresherfood2014

have fifty tree minimums. With luck, your truffle trees will begin producing truffles in four to eight years. You’ll need either a trained pig or dog to sniff out the truffles and with four to eight years lag time, you’ll have plenty of time to train your animal of choice. Happy hunting!

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E xce rpt: H o m e grow n , Stori es from the Farm Broadway+Thresher contributor, Evelyn Frolking recently published her new book, Homegrown, Stories from the Farm.

Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re happy to present a portion of her book below.

You can find a copy on Amazon.com.

Chapter 1 - Starting Up She is almost indistinguishable, a distant movement on a plot of freshly turned soil stretching nearly half an acre against her lean hundred pounds the only clue to her presence. As I approach, I see the slender young woman take long, even steps down a long row sifting seeds from a paper cone into the furrowed planting bed, a bed she had carved from the plowed expanse with a hoe and shovel. She stops briefly to survey her work, adjust her broad-brimmed straw hat against the sun, and continue to the end. A few more trips back and forth and the rainbow carrot seeds will be in the ground.

Later, she begins a series of walks to a nearby stream that flows parallel to the newly cultivated garden. As diminutive as she is in size, watering 50-foot rows of newly planted seeds with a green plastic watering can seems a gigantic and unseemly task. She is working with the property owner to engineer a gravity flow system that will bring water from its source 400 feet away to a round holding tank at the head of her garden. A perennial current appears from a storm sewer under the road, its spring-fed source on the hillside beyond.

But thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not yet in place. If it works at all, other challenges lay ahead. How to get enough head for a strong flow, how to lead the water to the 300-gallon plastic tank she hauled down to the garden site, and then how to get the water to the planting beds. Lots of questions. Much to ponder. So for now, she carries the plastic can, back and forth, for as long as it takes to moisten the new seeds and settle them into the soil.

Before she calls it a day, she tries out an idea she has been turning over in her head. Carrots germinate slowly, she knows. Weeds grow, well, like weeds. From a pile of flattened cardboard boxes she has collected, she covers the rows of newly planted seeds with the odd-shaped pieces and anchors them with rocks. She hopes to retain precious moisture and deter weed growth in the coming weeks as the seeds slowly germinate. It seems unlikely to plant seeds and then plaster them over, she knows, but she thinks this strategy may create the window of time needed to let the thin feathery carrot shoots push up against their ceiling of cardboard unimpeded. Especially so, she thinks, in a new garden space where densely rooted pasture grass has ruled the land for untold years until a week ago when she turned the soil. Clearly, those grasses are quick to reclaim the space at first chance and, in fact, are already starting to do so as Broadway+thresherfood2014.............45

she stands back and looks across her garden and down the bordering fence she erected as deer protection.

Thirty-year-old Erin Harvey is a small-scale vegetable farmer, one of a new breed who has stepped onto the land to fulfill a need in her life and to share the bounty of her garden with those around her. She is starting a market garden on this sunny spot of land in Granville. When she’s not planting, transplanting, hoeing, watering, or harvesting, she works a parttime job. She is like thousands of young, college educated people across the country poised to redefine the American culture along with its diet. Growing up in a green generation, an organic generation, where Earth Day, recycling, and healthy real food took root in her heart, she and others like her grow food naturally without synthetic pesticides and herbicides. They want to know where their food comes from. They want others to know, too. They have learned that chemical aids to increasing production have been overused and abused, causing untold problems for the land and its people alike. And like many of her breed, they are practical and realistic. Mostly from cities or suburbs, they often don’t own land, and they are intentionally choosing the soil over an office, knowing they might be charting this course in their life at their own financial peril.

stainless steel pipes behind the closed doors of the production room catch my attention. In this room, the picture window room, however, fingers quietly tap keyboards, and a handful of young men and women talk and laugh as they go about their work. One voice among those in the creamery is the voice they listen to. It belongs to Warren Taylor, who along with his wife, Victoria, raised Snowville Creamery up on the same grassy pasture it now shares with 250 brown cows.

Warren is the consummate dairyman from a family of dairymen. His passion for making affordable high-value milk for local distribution guides his every action and decision. He regularly works 100-hour weeks, Victoria says. He is always and sometimes dairyman, founder, promoter, salesman, lobbyist, mechanic, engineer, delivery driver, and decision maker. “Cut me and I bleed white,” he says with a smile on his face. Grass engulfs Warren and his creamery. He likes it that way. For him, the grass holds everything critical to making good milk.

Chapter 6 - Good Food for All It’s a rambunctious time out there on the other side of the picture window at Snowville Creamery. Under the warm sun, rich fertile soil floods grasses with nutrients and energy to send pulsing shoots skyward into the bright light of springtime. As a result, luminous green mounds of tender new grass now blanket the ground, tumbling in the breezes of the season left to right as far as the eye can see through the frame of the window.

Deep in those grassy pastures and up and down gentle valleys of the Appalachian foothills of Southern Ohio, brown cows hold their ground as spring riots on. With heads buried up to their ears, they search out their favorites among the sweet new grasses. Cows within eye range of the low slung building take no note of the window or of those of us who gaze through it. They are fully committed to the grass.

Farther away on a ridge top is a small paddock, a blotch of brown framed in green. There a small cluster of cows await the imminent birth of their calves and then, finally, for their turn on the grass. It’s the start of a season of freshness in more ways than one. In dairy language, a cow lactates or becomes fresh each year when she gives birth, ready for a season of daily milking, morning and night. And if she lives on this farm, she will enjoy a gentle, quiet life on the grass in between.

On the other side of the window, Saturday milk production at Snowville Creamery is underway. Every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, fresh milk from the brown cows just outside the window is packaged for local distribution. Today, soft swishing sounds of milk whisking through miles of snaking 46.............Broadway+thresherfood2014

opposite: photo by David Gobeli

A In Nikos Kazantzakis’s novel, Zorba the Greek, the pallid narrator frets a lot about his weaknesses of the flesh. He lies awake at night worrying about the infinite varieties of lust that call to him from this world; for example, cherries. He’s way too fond of cherries. Zorba tells him, well then, I’m afraid what you must do is stand under the tree, collect as big a bowl full, and stuff yourself.

Eat cherries like they’re going out of season.

—Barabara Kingsolver, Animal, Vegetable, Miracle: A Year of Food Life

The Zorba Diet Evelyn Frolking

nd so, in the mind’s eye of author Barbara Kingsolver, who penned this summary of a classic tale, the Zorba Diet was born. The larger story she launches from the Zorba Diet is recounted in her best selling book, Animal, Vegetable, Miracle: A Year of Food Life where she takes us on her family’s journey og eating seasonally —growing, sourcing, and preserving nearly all the food her husband and two daughters would eat in a year. When asparagus is growing, love asparagus until it’s gone. When the blackberries are ripe, eat berries. And eat them like they’re going out of season.

But as I look out the window and at the calendar today, I might laugh out loud at Barbara’s Zorba diet. There’s not much out here in the hills and valleys of Granville in February unless a few potatoes are hiding out underground.

In this small burg, the primary source of food here is our local grocery store and it certainly has everything we might want.

But there are no seasons in grocery stores and over time that has clouded our understanding of where our food comes

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from, when it is in season, and the unsustainable costs of getting it to us. My eyes may snap to those eye-popping fresh red strawberries as I browse through the produce section.

Then I remind myself that you just shouldn’t eat strawberries in February if you live in the Midwest.

And, if you do, you’re eating oil. Shipping fresh food across the country and around the world is a terrible waste of energy. Each food item in a typical U.S. meal travels 1,500 miles to get to the plate, not including other fuel-thirsty steps in the food production process. All of that just so I can eat a strawberry in February?

It wouldn’t take much to start meaningful change. If every American, for example, ate just one meal a week consisting of local food, including meats and produce, the USDA estimates we would reduce this country’s oil consumption by over 1.1 million barrels of oil every week. Yes, every week.

So I take a look at the fresh food before me in the store.

Nothing, however, will be as flavor-fresh or nutritional as food fresh in the growing season, of course. And most all of the fresh food in grocery stores comes from vast monocultures where variety selection is a function of transportation endurance. But as a growing food movement spreads around the country to celebrate local, we now have more choices than ever to do better.

spring, summer, fall and winter.

Broadway+Thresher, never out of season.

We can eat kale and other greens that come from local high tunnels and greenhouses that stretch the growing season on both sides of winter. In my own book on this subject, Homegrown: Stories from the Farm, I relate stories told by local small-scale farmers who are growing real food.

(Excerpts are printed elsewhere in this issue.) I could eat local beef, pork and chicken raised humanely from smallscale farmers. I can visit the winter farmers market in town on Saturday mornings, and pick up fresh and home canned or preserved foods.

In 2011, the latest data from the USDA shows the number of farmers markets, both outdoors in the season and indoors during the winter in Ohio increased 31%, with 278 operating in cities and in small towns like Granville. That’s an amazing rate of growth and it’s increasing every year.

With small-scale farmers using high tunnels and greenhouses, a resurgence in home canning, and chest freezers tucked into basements and garages, it’s becoming possible to enjoy a generous amount of local food, fresh and preserved, nearly all year long.

I open my own pantry doors to find rhubarb conserve, spiced peaches, tomatoes, applesauce, and salsa—all canned on warm days when February seemed far off and when the food from my garden and the farmers market was at its nutritional best.

And in this coldest month, those jars are my cherries.

broadwayandthresher.com/subscribe Broadway+thresherfood2014.............49

fa s h io n

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Ma ker: T-Shi rt Express

W

Ruth Coffey

hile Mount Vernon, Ohio may be an idyllic and sleepy little town, it certainly has its share of artisits and tastemakers, which led us to T-Shirt Express. Now owned by Drew McCoy, T-Shirt Express has been a staple in the Mount Vernon community since 1982— designing and screen-printing clothing and accessories.

We chatted with the guys at T-Shirt Express and tried to understand just what is going on in their heads, as well as inside their wonderful shop.

B+T - How the hell do you guys get to make t-shirts for a living? Seriously? Tell me all about it.

Drew McCoy, 31 - The grass is always greener. Putting art on everyday items is certainly not the least enviable occupation to have, but we too have our jealousies of the craft beer brewers and the leather-workers and the independent journalists out there.

Kris Lemmon, 35 - I think of it less as a living, more as a gift!

Aaron White, 32 - I applied for a job, interviewed and was hired.

Chad Emerine, 27 - Well as I see it, the people of the world need shirts, or else we would have a bunch of half naked humans yelling and beating their chests to prove dominance.

So, we are doing the world a favor.

B+T - Drew when did you begin T-Shirt Express and what inspired you start?

Drew - Like many people between the ages of 12 and 40, I once had a portfolio of “t-shirt ideas” floating around in my head. Two things came together—a bad time to be looking for a decent job and my buddy Nick Paparone recommending me his book, Print Liberation, the Screen-Printing Primer.

That’s how I got started printing. T-Shirt Express, however, was begun the year I was born, and I just happened into taking it over when I kept dropping by to ask the previous owner how to do X, and then Y and then Z. B+T - And the rest of you? How did you get involved in T-Shirt Express?

Kris - Life is full of synchronization. I wanted to make t-shirts, Drew was looking for help! I moved back to Mount Vernon in 2011, and Drew, who I had met through mutual friends, was looking for a printer. I had no experience, but I just HAD to get this job! I was open and honest and used a lime green pen to fill out my application. Don’t ask me how I got it, but Drew gave me the job!

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Aaron - I applied for a job, interviewed and was hired.

Chad - I was in college for graphic design and bored. I knew it would help with my creative juices to flow. I needed a place to get away which is now T-Shirt Express.

B+T - What’s up with your studio location? How did you end up in this space?

Drew - Our shop has a unique charm. Many retail spaces attempt to create a retro feel by emulating the patina we’ve naturally grown for the last 31 years of simply existing in the same space.

Kris - It’s been a print shop for as far back as I can remember.

Drew took over and I guess he decided that this space been a print shop, so it should stay a print shop.

B+T - Is it getting a little cramped in there? Looks like business is good. Any plans of expanding, getting an interior designer and putting in big windows and painting the walls white?

Just curious.

Drew - We’ve had many dreams of how to move forward – most of them shrugged aside by harsh realities (the cost of implementing the change) and the fleetingness of previously wonderful ideas. (And it’s HARD to get me to pay for change, let alone simply schedule the time in to do it.)

Kris - We often talk about remodeling (I often dream about it!), but we’ve been so busy lately printing shirts that its been pushed back. Someday...

Aaron - You don’t like circa 1968 wood paneling and polypropylene carpet?

Aaron - It’s always been here. When I was a kid it was already a historic landmark in Mount Vernon, maybe not historic in the literal sense but you could always use it as a landmark to give directions by. There used to be a gigantic t-shirt out front.

Chad - Nah, it might seem that way to some people, but we are so used to the space that it wouldn’t feel right anywhere else.

Chad - If you took two really old buildings and collided them together you would have our shop, literally we have two addresses.

Drew - I would love to know what T-Shirt Express first printed. As the third owner, I would love to have more samples of things that we printed 10, 15, 20, 25 years ago.

B+T - What was the first item you printed as T-Shirt Express?

Kris - Drew threw me off the deep end, straight off the bat!

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One of my first prints was a six color print (six colors is the max the press can do)for Creative Foundations. What would now take me 25-30 minutes to set up and register, took me 2-4 hours!

Aaron - Probably something in Comic Sans font.

Chad - My first print i think was Mid-Ohio Suzuki, which was a one color front. Drew took it easy on me compared to Kris, or should i say he learned his lesson.

B+T - What’s your favorite print that you’ve done so far?

Drew - Bond, Polar Bond for the Kenyon College Chemistry Club. Most of my favorites have to do with our technical prowess, learning how to do certain things better than we were previously able to.

Kris - Chris Ovdiyenko from Centerburg had a very successful kickstarter campaign for his Calaveras Playing Cards, a Day of the Dead-inspired deck of cards. Each card design was sketched by hand. We contacted him and he decided to get 19 of his 55 designs printed out on shirts!

They were fantastic. (If you need photos of these shirts, just let me know, we will be able to get them for you. BTW, if you’re looking to do a piece on local kickstarter campaigns that were successful or amazing local artists, I STRONGLY suggest you seek him out! I have his contact info if that’s

something that appeals to you.)

Aaron - Actual Brewing Company.

Chad - It would have to be Hoof-Hearted’s South of Eleven Double IPA, which is an amazing beer for hop heads like me!

B+T - Do you guys ever get on each other’s nerves, lack of personal space? What do you do?

Drew - It’s definitely a culture that grows over time. Working among friends is one of the best parts of the job.

Kris - Chad and I are like brothers. One day, we are tugging at each others beards (the closest we get to flirting!) and the next we are having a shouting match! We all get a long for the most part, but we all have our Chad-isms or Drew-isms, as we call them, that we love to point out about one another!

Aaron - Everyday. We have four unique personalities so it is bound to happen. We yell at each other, beat our chests and then hug it out while we sing “Nothing Compares 2 U.” Chad - Oh yeah! We are like brothers here. Sometimes we have yelling matches about movies, music, and life decisions.

It makes for a great laugh fest the next day.

--continued on page 73-Broadway+thresherfood2014.............55

Ma ker: Raw Ma teri a ls Design

I

Lee Kirkpatrick | photos by Raw Materials Design

think it’s safe to say that Americans love and adore an honest, American-made good. Consumers search high and low for a product that will stand the test of time and only get better with age. Unfortunately, it’s not as easy to find that one thing that reflects good ol’ blue-collar work.

The best finds are like a diamond in the rough— classically simple, keeping us wanting to hold on forever.

For Janna Lufkin, the simple essence of design came naturally. In the heart of the American West (Idaho to be more specific) the principle of self-reliance built the basis for Raw Materials Design. Growing up and living far from a store or even a paved road, Janna was in need of a kitchen essential, an apron. Most massed produced aprons were (and still are are) made from thin flimsy fabrics often in gaudy prints and form fitting design with ruffles and bows that no man and not every woman would ever wear. With her knowledge and resourceful nature, she made her own apron from heavy duty one hundred percent cotton. Today, the company is producing and manufacturing aprons and textile goods that consumers across the country are using in their daily lives and careers. From cooking, painting and gardening, to hair salons and breweries, Raw Materials Design’s aprons are used in almost any niche.

Each apron is handmade in Seattle, Washington and is American-made down to the stitching. The vision of Raw Materials Design is to produce an affordable and beautiful product that will provide years of sturdy service and enjoyable kitchen memories. (I can personally attest to this as I have a passion for baking, planning, and hosting countless gettogethers for family and friends throughout the year.) Raw Materials Design offers two product lines for their goods: natural and organic. The natural line is made from one hundred percent cotton fabric that is sourced domestically, but from unknown producers. The company then began their organic line after customers were becoming receptive to their existing products. With research, American-grown organic cotton was sourced knowing each step of its life cycle.

The cotton is grown in Texas, shipped to the Carolinas to be woven, and then arrives for production. Each apron is then ready to reveal its own story through every unique customer.

When it comes down to bare bones, Raw Materials Design’s tag line has it right. “Everyday goods. Made to last.”

Find Raw Materials Design online at rawmaterialsdesign.com

opposite: classic chef apron Broadway+thresherfood2014.............57

above: napkins below: French waiter apron

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above: dishtowels below: utility apron

--Maker: T-shirt Express, cont. from page 69-B+T - What do you enjoy most about your line/ being a designer/ a crafts person?

Drew - Art on a shirt is instantaneous and tangible. If you can imagine it, and it can be physically done with our stuff – viola! It’s there! It’s satisfying, and sometimes a little creepy, seeing your work on total strangers at a county fair.

Kris - The conclusion of bringing all these elements together, and having them come out looking flawless, and better than I imagined it would have been. There’s a real teamwork that happens here, if we didn’t have that, our product would be less than satisfactory.

Aaron - The finished product. Seeing everything come together and making an awesome shirt. Seeing our customers react to the finished product also.

there is all about trial and error which helps us grow into a amazing company that customers would be proud to be apart of.

B+T - If you weren’t creating this line what would you guys be doing?

Drew - I’d be a carpenter, as I was in past life.

Kris - Critiquing movies. Most are shit anyways, but making fun of movies is half the fun! (inside joke) Aaron - Fishing.

Chad - Working for the man.

B+T - What’s the most mind blowing thing you’ve learned in the last month?

Drew - Winter is here.

Chad - Designing shirts and then printing them, there is no greater high for me. I love it when people critique my designs, it helps me blossom my creative output.

Kris - On Venus, it snows metal and rains sulfuric acid.

B+T - What is the biggest challenge?

Chad - The Kessler Effect. Colliding satellites that will have an effect on all world communications. Google it, it’s fascinating and frightening.

Drew - Learning to manage a small business with zero business training or experience. Marketing oneself in a way that is honest and not-annoying and value-adding.

Kris - For me, its gotta be NOT printing. I am a printer AND salesman. When I’m not printing, Chad is, while I am on sales. If I had to choose, I would opt to print 60 hours a week! I love it. There is a zen quality to printing! Keeps my blood pressure down!

Aaron - Customers who want only one shirt.

Chad - When we get a kink in our process (Like screwing up an order), we sometimes have trouble getting back on the horse, especially if you know you’re most of the blame.

We always figure it out and help each other get though it.

You always learn from your mistakes. We love a challenge here, it’s what makes us stand out compared to other screen printers.

B+T - What’s happening next for your line? Where do you see it going in the future?

Drew - Growth. Sales process engineering. More technical ability. Better art skills. Rocketships to the moon.

Kris - We have recently been reaching out to businesses that we aspire to be like or that we have invested interests in, namely breweries! We see similarities in both their production system as well as ours. Not to mention, most micro breweries are happy enough to let us sample their product! We’d like to see local micro-breweries become our niche.

Aaron - Bigger, Better, Faster.

Aaron - Some people still don’t have e-mail. Seriously it is 2014, how can you not have e-mail?

B+T - Favorite new music?

Drew - Lourde Rustie

Death Grips

Frank Ocean ...I’m all over the place.

Kris -

Ah Holly Fam’ly The National Poor Moon Phil Collins (its not new, but he’s a beast!)

Paper Lions.

“Nothing Compare 2 U” by Sinead O’Conner

Aaron - Nope. Music achieved a state of perfection from

April 1976 to September of 1997. No need to listen

to new music when it can not feasibly compare to

the golden age.

Chad -

Joe Pug The Head And The Heart Forest and the Evergreens(my cousins band lol) Bon Iver Iron and Wine

On the heavier side The Sword Red Fang The Bronx

Find T-Shirt Express online at tshirtexpressohio.com

Chad - We will be shirt gods!!!! I see us taking in more volume of orders and expanding. How we are going to get Broadway+thresherfood2014.............59

Wade Rouse is the author of five books, including Confessions of A Prep School Mommy Handler (2007). He has been featured multiple times on NBCâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Today Show, as well as People.com and Chelsea Lately on E!.

To purchase books visit www.waderouse.com

WADE ROUSE

mu s i c +art

Broadway+thresherfood2014.............61

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S o n g s to S a t i a te - A Mi x Tri o for Food Fa natics Meredith Peters

M

uch like a meal, music can take you on a sensefilled journey. From sweet to bitter, cheesy to gritty, full of love or full of heat. And the sensations and memories planted in one’s mind by special meals and meaningful music can serve to transport a person to a different time and place at first note or first smell.

One’s relationship to food and music may be more in sync than you’d think­—and such, this month, Broadway+Thresher presents three music mixes all containing tracks devoted to consumables.

Each mix—one devoted to food, one to drinks, and one to desserts—presents an interesting glimpse into the way in which different artists approach their relationship with those subjects. A love song to wine contrasted with a song rueing whiskey. Songs that compare love to candy and comfort to mashed potatoes. Or committing the memory of a family supper into personal and beautiful lyrics.

Food (and drink) is certainly not only powerful in its consumption, but perhaps even more so as a metaphor, a medicine, a memory or a melody.

Dig in to the mixes and enjoy!

Follow the links below or visit B+T’s Spotify account to listen: Songs for sipping -- goo.gl/Ozw2Cu Songs for Sustenance -- goo.gl/4HTHNg Songs for a Sweet Tooth -- goo.gl/GIzIc6

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a p ri l / may: be bright! sta n d o u t f ro m t h e crowd

subs cr i be a t b roa dwaya n dt h re sh e r.c o m /s u b sc ri be

issu e 5, spring 2014

b+t