Urban Illusion P.A.D by Brodie Rolfe

P.A.D BRODIE DIONNE ROLFE 00164418 YEAR 3 FASHION

CONTENTS 5-6 7-8 9-10 11-12 13-14 15-16 17-18 19-20 21-22 24-29 30-31 32-33 34-35 36-37 38-39 40-41 42-43

DESIGN CONCEPT ILLUSION DIGITIAL WAVE 1980’S VOGUE ARCHIVE HOLLAND AND SHERRY NEW DESIGNERS COLOUR PALETTE SILHOUETTE FABRICS FINAL COLLECTION OUTFIT ONE TOILING OUTFIT TWO TOILING FINAL OUTFIT ONE FINAL OUTFIT TWO REFERENCES

Within this collection the student will be exploring the idea of illusion. Working with optical illusions the student will play around with various images changing them to create different images and patterns that could be used as prints to create an urban dynamic.

To achieve ‘URBAN ILLUSION’ the student will use a mix of elements from different areas of research and combine them with the hope of creating an urban collection that is filled with prints and oversized silhouettes.

DESIGN CONCEPT

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The student gained initial inspiration from visiting the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art and the Fruit Market Gallery.

This is where the idea of illusion sparked from. Whilst looking at various works of art through out the galleries the student picked up that the same pieces of art could be seen in different ways. This then progressed to researching into illusion. The student began to see potential in this research to develop her own prints. These prints could be used to make her traditional ‘Holland and Sherry’ fabrics more urban. In the hope to sell in a high end urban lux market. To build inspiration the student then explored trends of SS17 quickly picking up that ‘DIGITAL WAVE’ would work hand in hand with her initial research. Having designed a shell of research the student then began focusing her research into garment design. Taking inspiration from the vogue archive of the 1980’s she instantly started to pick out shapes of garments taking a particular liking too the cinched in waists and sporty body con elements. The final element of inspiration came from new designers Mathew Dolan and Vetements. The student chose these designers due to their extremely oversized urban garments, focusing on the extra long baggy sleeves and the ultimately long and oversized trousers. All of these elements are to be brought together within the colour palette keeping it very toned down and monochrome.

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ILLUSION

From visiting both the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art and the Fruit Market Gallery the idea of illusion sparked.

The particular piece of art that first initiated the idea was ‘Frank Auerbach, Head of E.O.W created 1961’ this was due to the art piece looking like nothing but paint at the first glance but then through the camera lens the student realised that there was a face within the paint. This made her think that not everyone might notice that the face existed. The second piece of artwork too add to her inspiration was ‘Fernand Leger, Woman and Still Life created in 1921’ this piece was an abstract painting that looked to the student as some sort of robot, it wasn’t till after reading the information about the painting that it became clear it was a naked woman. This developed her thoughts on thinking that everyone might see something different from this painting. Within both the gallery’s a lot of the art showed similar preferences which then progressed to ‘illusion’ due to different body’s seeing illusions differently.

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DIGITAL WAVE

Building from the initial illusion inspiration the student began to look into the trend SS17. The trend coherent to her previous research was ‘Digital Wave’ ‘Digital Wave’ best fitted theme due to its funky prints and similarities in images that were found when researching illusion. In looking the trend research also initiated the idea of the student creating her own prints for her collection.

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1980’S VOGUE ARCHIVE

Looking into the vogue archive the student picked out inspiration to take forward into her collection. Instantly the elements that she liked came from the silhouette shapes. She mostly liked the cinched in waists. From looking at the archive The student realised there wasn’t a lot on the 1980’s that best suited her theme so she began researching the 1980’s online. The student picked up a lot more silhouette inspiration such as the sporty body con designs and skin tight leotards. This inspired a more sports urban take to her collection ideas focusing on elasticated waists and figure hugging garments.

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HOLLAND AND SHERRY

Within the collection the student thought the best way to renovate traditional fabrics was with the technique of foiling.

She discovered foiling when experimenting techniques in her sketchbook from a master class with technicians. The student thought that foiling my fabrics would make the wool more suited to a high end urban lux market. To foil the fabrics, The student laser cut her chosen developed print onto bonder web and the foiled it in a scattered pattern. The foiling and garment design where carefully chosen to create a dramatic urban effect.

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NEW DESIGNERS

Mathew Dolan and Veterments became a huge element of inspiration after researching within their work. In particular, the huge oversized jogger like bottoms and extremely long and baggy sleeves interested the student most. This research pushed her in the design development stage to try all different kinds of oversize sleeve types and extremely large bottoms.

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COLOUR PALETTE

Going back to the very first art piece the student liked ‘Frank Auerbach, Head of E.O.W created 1961’ she decided to use a very monochrome colour palette with a variety of greys and black. After development of the collection she considered adding a bright accent of colour from her trend research but decided against it as she thought it could look cheap and low end within her chosen designs. The student also had issues finding fabrics in the colours she wanted to use. The student felt the colour palette would worked well within her desired collection.

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SILHOUETTE

Focusing on silhouettes from new designers ‘Mathew Dolan’ and ‘Veterment’, the collection is a mixture of large long sleeves and extremely oversized tailored garments brought in with tapered elastic waists from the 1980’s inspiration. The oversized garments will merge along side sporty figure hugging pieces to add to the sports urban theme.

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FABRICS

To maintain a high end lux collection within the sporty urban vibe the student ensured that she picked the correct fabrics for the garments. From sourcing various fabric’s, the student chose traditional herringbone wool for her ‘Holland and Sherry’ garments. She combined the wool with a top quality sweatshirt jersey complete with a soft fleece on the inside that would create the perfect drape for oversized garments and no need for lining. She then partnered these with an extremely soft bamboo jersey for the sportier body con garments. Soft black mesh will also be showcased in the collection as well as a small glimpse of neoprene. To maintain a high end lux collection within the sporty urban vibe she ensured that she picked the correct fabrics for the garments.

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FINAL COLLECTION

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FINAL COLLECTION

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FINAL COLLECTION

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OUTFIT ONE

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TOILING

The student began her process with the leotard design. To achieve the best out come she sourced the most similar toile fabric possible. Opting for a white mesh she firstly cut out the fabric around the pattern she had previously created. She sewed the fabric using a four thread over locker due to the fabric being stretchy. Once the leotard was complete she then moved onto the pencil skirt design. Using a basic block pattern for a knitted skirt the student altered the pattern and created a waistband before sewing. She then constructed the skirt together. There was a slight issue with the waist band as it was ruffling at one side. The student quickly realised this was due to the waistband being slightly small. She recut the jersey and re toiled the skirt with a bigger waistband.

This time the skirt was successful. For the final garment of the outfit she then moved onto the bustier crop top. This pattern wasn’t as straight forward. Using the bodice block as a guide the student constructed the shape of the top desired design. She then sewed the pieces together and tried them to fit. Once on the model the student realised that there was an error to the bust of the garment. She went back to my pattern and added in darts to create shape, she then joined the darts at the bust point and made them into panels. the student then re toiled the top with the panels and it was the desired fit.

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OUTFIT TWO

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TOILING

To begin the second outfit, the student started with the sporty crop top. She used the basic knitted top pattern block and then altered the length and arm holes. She then created a waist band to go round the bottom as part of a design feature. The student cut out the toile jersey and constructed the garment together, somehow she had made the same error as done with the pencil skirt previously. Knowing what she had to do she made the waistband bigger and then re toiled ensuring that it was a good fit. The student then moved onto the cropped jacket. Using the blouse pattern block as a guide she constructed the body of the jacket and used a bigger size to the models fittings to get the oversize look she wanted. She then traced the arms of the blouse blocked and used the slash and spread method she had gotten from the book Pattern Making

by Dennic Chunman Lo. This created the bell bottom design desired. Finally, the student toiled the oversized joggers, this design took a lot more perfecting. No matter how many times the student atempted she could not get the trousers to the right flare or size. After numourous tries the student decided to try the slash and spread method again, she done this method from the hip and got the design she was wanting.

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FINAL OUTFIT ONE Although the student had thought she had eliminated all of her problems through toiling she realised this wasn’t entirely true. Thankfully the leotard fit perfectly due to using very similar toile fabrics but due to the fabrics delicate quality when adding poppers, the fabric began to tear. She had fused the fabric to prevent this but when pulling the poppers apart the fabric became very fragile. Due to her time management the student was unable to fix this problem, so she pressed the garment and progressed within the manufacturing process.

A process not included in the toile stage was foiling, after experimenting within her sketchbook on different fabrics the student was confident to go ahead, she cut out my fabric and foiled on the design before beginning to sew the garment.

This garment also showed a flaw in final production. This was due to the fabric. After realising the fabric would be itchy when directly on skin she had to change the finish of the garment. After talking to the technicians it became feasible that removing the facings and changing the lining would ensure that no wool would be in contact with the models skin. The student was worried this would lower the quality of the garment and if she ever made the garment again she said she would change the fabric or use a more expensive lining such as silk or satin. After overcoming the problem, The student then appliqued her laser cut neoprene onto the top to create the straps. The student had not done this in the toiling process due to little access to the laser cutter and it didn’t work as well as she had planned. The student realised the design she had created would not work as well as she had hope so she changed her design. This design consisted of one strap instead of two. Unlike the first two garments the stretch pencil skirt was straight forward. The skirt was easy to make without any faults and it fitted perfectly. The student then pressed her garments and became aware that the foiling could not be directly touched with the iron. Within this outfit the student believe each garment could be worn with other garments in the collection designed.

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FINAL OUTFIT TWO Due to fabric issues the crop top wasn’t as straight forward as the toiling stage. The soft bamboo jersey was slightly transparent, especially when stretched. The student discussed the problem with the technicians and they decided it would be best to line the crop top also in bamboo jersey. After putting the garment together, She believes the final outcome was better than the design and the toile, giving the garment a higher end finish. Once the garment was fully finished she then foiled her print design onto the front of the top to create a final high end finish and pressed it. Moving onto the jacket the student cut out her fabric and then foiled her selected design that she had done on the laser cutting machine onto the fabric pieces. She then began sewing the garment together as she did in the toile stage which worked successfully. Unlike the toiling process the student then attached facings and linings to the jacket. This stage was slightly slower process due to not having practice from toiling. Once the lining was attached she then pressed the garment ready to be photographed.

The final garment in the making process was my oversized joggers, after discussing with Robbie the student added pockets to this garment to create a more tailored high end design. The student cut out the pattern pieces and followed the step by step process to create the pocket design she had chosen. She then sewed up the garment with only the waist band left to finish. Before sewing the waist band she fused the middle section and added eyelets the student then locksticthed the drawstring elastic into the waistband before adding the waist band to the joggers. Once finished she fully pressed and checked the garments for any faults.

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REFERENCES FIG. BRODIE ROLFE[2016] FIG.2 Black diamond[online] Available at: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/564849978245016658/ JANUARY[2016] FIG.3 DIGITAL WAVE[online] Available at: FIG.4 1980’S Vogue Archive[magazine] Available at: Heriot Watt Libary FIG.5 BRODIE ROLFE[2016] FIG.6 Mathew Dolan collection SS/16[online] Available at: http://www.matthewadamsdolan.com/ss16-collection/kjjhqysdm0bahie4ws7qeb9cupip81 FIG.7 Veterment collection PE/15[online] Available at: http://vetementswebsite.com/collection/pe-2015/ FIG.8 BRODIE ROLFE[2016] FIG.9 BRODIE ROLFE[2016] FIG.10 BRODIE ROLFE[2016] FIG.11 BRODIE ROLFE[2016] FIG.12 BRODIE ROLFE[2016] FIG.13 BRODIE ROLFE[2016] FIG.14 BRODIE ROLFE[2016]