2014 Brown & Co Magazine

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R O L E X W IN DIN G C ROW N

WH E R E WAT E R - R E S I S TANCE IS CROW NED W IT H S U CCESS A crown screwed onto a tube that forms an integral part

(330 feet). The Twinlock system is identified by two dots or

watchmaking, a waterproof wristwatch was crafted.

Triplock system, introduced in 1970, has a third sealed zone

The screw-down winding crown and the case with screw-down

water-resistance for the Submariner, Sea-Dweller and Rolex

by a line below the Rolex emblem on the winding crown. The

of the case – this is how, for the first time in the history of

inside the tube of the crown. It was designed to offer increased Deepsea divers’ watches, guaranteed waterproof to depths of

back together make up the Oyster. This exceptional waterproof

300 metres (1,000 feet), 1,220 metres (4,000 feet) and 3,900

design was patented in 1926 and gave Rolex watches their

metres (12,800 feet) respectively. Today it also equips several

reputation. It was the beginning of the Rolex success story.

other Professional models. The Triplock system is identified by

INTERFACE BETWEEN TWO WORLDS

three dots under the Rolex emblem on the winding crown.

access to the watch’s key functions. The crown can be pulled

PRECISE AND RIGOROUS MANUFACTURING

to adjust the time, date, day or a second time zone. The first

made up of some 10 parts. Like the watch case and the bracelet,

The crown not only hermetically seals the case – it also provides

A little masterpiece of technical prowess, the winding crown is

out to two or three positions, depending on the calibre model,

it is manufactured thanks to the same knowledge and know-

position can be used to wind the watch manually, if need be.

how that go into the exterior of the watches, and calls for the

TWINLOCK AND TRIPLOCK CROWNS

same precision and quality. Only the best materials are used –

screw-down winding crown is perfectly water-resistant thanks

precious metals for the mechanical and aesthetic parts. The raw

polymers for the gaskets, the highest quality stainless steels and

The Twinlock system, introduced in 1953, guarantees that the

material is shaped by means of extrusion or stamping, followed

to two sealed zones, one inside the tube, the other inside the

by the various stages of machining and polishing before the

crown. This principle is used on all the watches in the Oyster

different parts are assembled. n

collection that are guaranteed waterproof to 100 metres 4


R OL E X C YC LOPS L E N S T H E D AT E MA GNIF IED

HANS WILSDORF VISIONARY PAR EXCELLENCE

A ROLEX EXCLUSIVITY

In 1955, given the immediate success of this innovation, Rolex felt the need to issue a solemn warning to the competition. “To all watchmakers: we draw your attention to the fact that the watch crystal with the specially shaped magnifying lens is a Rolex exclusivity protected in Switzerland and abroad. We will not hesitate to instigate legal proceedings against any counterfeiting,” stated a notice published in the press at the time.

The Cyclops lens, which magnifies the date two and a

After the Datejust model, the GMT-Master and Day-Date were equipped with the Cyclops lens as of their launch in 1955 and 1956, respectively, with its characteristic domed shape, the Cyclops lens became a salient aesthetic feature. Its use was subsequently extended to the entire Oyster collection with date – with the exception of a few very specific models like the SeaDweller and the Rolex Deepsea divers’ watches.

half times on many Oyster models, is a Rolex invention dating back to the early 1950s. This innovation makes for appreciably easier reading of the date and has become a signature feature of the brand.

“I am convinced that the new tropical case with the new crystal, and the optical magnification, will give us something new.”

FROM PLEXIGLAS TO SAPPHIRE

Hans Wilsdorf

When it was introduced, the lens and the crystal were a single piece, made of Plexiglas. From the 1970s, Rolex equipped its watches with a new, virtually scratchproof, synthetic sapphire crystal. Consequently, the Cyclops lens evolved. Also in sapphire, it is now affixed to the crystal.

In this letter, written in February 1953, Hans Wilsdorf did not realize how right he was. The “optical magnification” mentioned

by the Rolex founder is the Cyclops lens patented by the brand in the early 1950s, and introduced for the first time in 1953 on a

Today, the Cyclops lens is more than ever an inseparable part of the Oyster’s aesthetics. However, it continues to evolve. It now has an anti-reflective coating and is proof yet again of the brand’s singular care for the wearer’s comfort. n

Datejust model. By magnifying the date two and a half times in

the window on the dial, it offers considerably easier reading of the date... which does not go unnoticed!

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A

A. The Classic速 timepiece in stainless steel and 18K gold with diamond bezel, mother-of-pearl dial with diamond markers, Swiss Made, 38mm, $8,000 6


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Labyrinth速 pieces in sterling silver and 18K gold with diamonds. A. Bracelet, $3,800 B. Double-loop cuff, $7,800 C. Triple-loop ring, $3,800 7




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A. Shrimp earrings in 18kt yellow gold with pavé diamonds, 0.81ctw, $4,635 B. Cuff bracelet in 18kt yellow gold with brushed detail and pavé diamonds, 3.39ctw, $19,920 C. Diamond ring in 18kt yellow gold with brushed detail, 0.57ctw pavé diamonds, $3,590 D. Cabochon oval cut ring in 18kt white gold with ruby center, 4.44ctw, round diamonds, 0.91ctw, and pear shape diamonds, 0.67ctw, $24,000 E. Cushion cut ring in 18kt white gold with blue sapphire center (no heat), 4.14ct, round brilliant cut diamonds, 1.61ctw, and baguette cut diamonds, 0.70ctw, $38,900 F. Oval cut ring in 18kt white gold and palladium with green emerald center, 2.44ct, and round brilliant cut diamonds, 0.62ctw, $12,550 G. Inside-out diamond hoop earrings in 18kt white gold, 4.77ctw, $19,050 10


C B

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H

A. Pear shape diamond pendant in 18kt white gold with center pear shape diamond, 0.75ct, $8,000 B. Diamond earrings in 18kt yellow and white gold with yellow diamonds, 1.20ct, and white diamonds, 0.33tw, $9,200 C. Diamond pendant in 18kt yellow and white gold with yellow diamonds, 0.70ct, and white diamonds, 0.17tw, $6,800 D. Diamond ring in 18kt white gold with center diamond, 0.68ct, $8,200 E. Three�stone ring in platinum with oval cut diamond center, 1.03ct, and flanked by two oval cut diamonds, 0.64ctw, $19,300 F. Blue sapphire ring in 18kt white gold with sapphire cushion cut, 0.78ct, and diamonds, 0.62tw, $4,570 G. Emerald ring in 18kt white gold with cushion cut emerald, 0.87ct, and diamonds, 0.64ctw, $6,020 H. Diamond cuff bracelet in 18kt white gold, 10.72ctw, $25,200 11



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A. Split shank ring in 18kt white gold with oval cut green tourmaline center, 7.89ct, and diamonds, 0.96ctw, $11,440 B. Dangle earrings in 18kt white gold with green tourmaline, 2.53ctw, and diamonds, 0.67ctw, $3,520 C. Pendant in 18kt white and rose gold with diamonds, 0.68ctw, $3,850 D. Diamond earrings in 18kt white and rose gold with omega clip backs, 0.94 tw, $3,960 E. Cross over ring in 18kt rose gold with diamonds, 1.19ctw, $5,830 F. Wide band in 18kt white and rose gold with diamonds, 2.21ctw, $9,900 G. 18kt white, rose, and yellow gold bracelet with diamonds, 2.36ctw, $7,700 13


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A. Large shark with diamond eyes cufflinks*, $790 B. Elephants*, $470 C. Skull with diamonds*, $790 D. Motorcycles*, $490 E. Guitars with black and silver enamel*, $510 F. Titanium monarch ‘Nano’ knife with silver G10 inlay on handle, $600 G. Jet stream Damascus steel with fossil dinosaur bone inlay and diamonds, $2,500 All cufflinks are in sterling silver. 14




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A. The Runwell Sport chronograph with orange dial and black subeyes on stainless steel bracelet, 47mm, $900 B. The Runwell with white dial with on stainless steel bracelet, 41mm, $700 C. The Runwell chronograph with black dial on stainless steel bracelet, 41mm, $900 D. The Birdy with white dial on natural strap, 34mm, $475 E. The Runwell with white dial on brown strap, 47mm, $550 F. The Runwell with green on brown strap, 47mm, $550 G. The Runwell with black dial in stainless steel case with black matte PVD finish on natural strap, 47mm, $600 *All with stainless steel cases. 17


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A. One-of-a-kind rose detail drop earrings in 18kt white gold with diamonds, 0.92ctw, and pink sapphires, 1.26ctw, $4,995 B. One-of-a-kind rose detail pendant in 18kt white gold with diamonds, 0.76ctw, and pink sapphires, 2.33ctw, $5,995 C. One-of-a-kind rose detail ring in 18kt white gold with diamonds, 0.59ctw, and pink sapphires, 1.89ctw, $3,820 D. Diamond hoop earrings in 18kt white gold with 1.00ctw, 19mm, $2,230 E. Diamond pendant in 18kt white gold with 0.50ct center and 0.16ctw pavĂŠ, $3,320 F. Diamond dangle earrings in 18kt white gold with 0.91ctw, $2,670 G. Diamond tennis bracelet in 18kt white gold with 4.00ctw, $8,725 18


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A. Sun rays pendant in 18kt rose gold with diamonds, 1.10ctw, and pink sapphires, 2.15ctw, $6,000, on 18kt white gold chain 18�, $750 B. Sun ray earrings in 18kt rose gold with diamond, 0.31ctw, and pink sapphires, 0.89ctw, $3,500 C. Dome style ring in 18kt white and rose gold with pink sapphires, 4.27ctw, and yellow sapphires, 2.67ctw, $5,480 D. Door knocker pendant in 18kt white gold with diamonds, 1.50ctw, $5,970 E. Blue lagoon pendant with mother-of-pearl green turquoise doublet center, 24.8ctw, with yellow sapphires on 14kt yellow gold chain, pendant $1,400, chain $750 F. Panther style bracelet in 18kt yellow and white gold with diamonds, 1.16ctw, $8,900 19



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A. Pois Mois double square ring in 18kt yellow gold with diamonds, 0.28ctw, $3,500 B. Pois Mois single square earrings in 18kt yellow and white gold with diamonds, 0.15ctw, $3,300 C. Pois Mois single row ring in 18kt rose, white and yellow gold, $980 each D. Primavera pavĂŠ diamond bracelet in 18kt yellow and white gold with diamonds, 0.21ctw, $2,900 E. Primavera bracelet in 18kt rose, white and yellow gold with diamonds, $2,300 21


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A. Rock Candy Gelato small baguette pendant necklace in London blue topaz with diamonds 16-18”, $1,450 B. Rock Candy Gelato small baguette pendant necklace in black shell and clear quartz 16-18”, $695 C. Rock Candy Gelato small baguette pendant necklace in mother-of-pearl and clear quartz with diamonds 16-18”, $1,350 D. Rock Candy Gelato baguette earrings in mother-of-pearl and clear quartz with diamonds, $2,995 E. Rock Candy Gelato baguette earrings in black shell and clear quartz with diamonds, $2,995 All items are crafted in 18kt yellow gold. 22



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Lunaria Collection: All in 18K hand engraved yellow gold. A. Earrings, $880 B. Necklace, $6,110 C. Necklace with aquamarine, $3,090 D. Earrings with aquamarine, $3,140 E. Ring with aquamarine, $3,800 F. Bracelet, $2,070 24



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A. Diamond bow necklace in 18kt yellow gold, 17ctw, $25,000 B. Diamond earrings in 18kt white gold, $8,500 C. Diamond brooch in platinum with approximately 4ctw, $8,500 D. Flower diamond ring in 18kt white and rose gold, $1,950 E. Emerald ring in 14kt yellow gold with emerald and diamonds approximately 1.80cts, $3,500 F. Floral diamond bracelet in platinum, approximately 25ctw, $25,000 27


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A. Lace style diamond pendant in 18kt rose gold on a double station diamond chain with fancy brilliant yellow pear, 0.37ctw, $9,800 B. Lace dangle diamond earrings in 18kt rose gold with 2.77ctw with fancy yellow pear shape fancies, 0.75ctw, $9,800 C. Drop dangle earrings in 18kt white and yellow gold with oval multicolor diamonds, 8.26ctw, and pavĂŠ diamonds, 2.27ctw, $37,500 D. Diamond necklace in 18kt yellow gold with pear, oval, and round multicolored diamonds, 5.20ctw, $24,200 E. Double bypass style right hand diamond ring in 18kt white gold, 3.51ctw, $21,800 F. Three row diamond bracelet with multicolor diamonds in 18kt white gold, 14.63ctw, $49,900 G. Diamond bangle in 18kt yellow gold, white gold, and rose gold with magnetic closure clasp and heart engraving detail with round diamonds, 2.13ctw, $7,990 28



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Available at the Buckhead location only. A. Master Ultra Thin 41 with silver dial on black leather genuine alligator strap, $9,350 B. Master Memovox International in 18kt rose gold with black dial on a black alligator strap, limited edition, $25,900 C. Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Duoface with black dial on black crocodile strap, $10,800 D. Master Calendar in 18kt rose gold with silver dial on brown crocodile strap, $24,300 E. Duomètre à Quantième Lunaire in 18kt pink gold, silver dial with chronograph, datedisplay twin power reserve, moon phase, and jumping seconds hand, $42,700 30



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H

A. Fancy diamond earrings in platinum, 18kt yellow, white, and rose gold with fancy pink diamonds, 0.29ctw, fancy yellow diamonds, 0.38ctw, and fancy orange/yellow diamonds, 0.15ctw, $55,000 B. Diamond drop necklace in platinum, 18kt yellow, white, and rose gold with fancy gray diamond, 1.00ct, light pink diamond, 0.92ct, fancy gray diamond, 0.50ct, fancy intense yellow, 0.75ct, fancy pink diamond, 0.36tw, fancy yellow diamonds, 0.34tw, white diamonds 22.88tw, $130,000 C. Ring in platinum and 18kt yellow gold with emerald center, 1.83ct, side emeralds, 2.25ct, and white diamonds, 2.93ctw, $68,000 D. Blue sapphire ring in 18kt white gold with cabochon sugarloaf blue sapphire center, 3.72ct, and white diamonds, 2.08ctw, $25,000 E. Diamond ring in platinum, 18kt yellow, white, and rose gold with natural fancy yellow diamond center, 2.48ct, kite diamonds, 0.46tw, yellow diamonds, 2.56tw, and white diamonds, 1.28tw, $76,000 F. Diamond ring in platinum and 18kt rose gold with fancy green/yellow diamond, 0.75ct, fancy yellow diamond, 0.47ct, fancy pink diamond, 0.31ct, and white diamonds, 3.06ctw, $85,000 G. Diamond ring in platinum with fancy green/yellow diamonds, 2.32ctw, fancy grey diamonds, 0.90ctw and white diamonds, 1.97ctw, $65,000 H. Diamond ring in platinum and 18kt rose gold with fancy pink diamond center, 2.36ct, and white diamonds, 3.10ctw, $165,000 32



D A

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B

C F

A. Carrera Calibre 1887 automatic chronograph men’s automatic watch in brushed stainless steel with grey dial, $5,550 B. Formula One automatic men’s watch in stainless steel with brush finish, $1,800 C. Link Calibre 16 automatic chronograph in stainless steel with grey dial, $4,350 D. Aquaracer ladies watch in stainless steel and 18kt rose gold with diamond dial and diamond bezel on bracelet, $6,300 E. Aquaracer ladies watch in stainless steel with mother-of-pearl diamond dial and diamond bezel, $4,900 F. Carrera Calibre 5 men’s automatic watch in stainless steel and rose gold accents, $3,500 34




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