5 Half Day Walks in North Devon • • • • •
5 Easy-to-follow Circular Self-Guided Walks From 3 to 6 miles long Includes Directions to the Start Points Simple Map showing Route Part of a Series of Booklets
Devised and Written by Bryan Cath www.combewalks.com Coordinator of the North Devon and Exmoor Walking Festival www.exmoorwalkingfestival.co.uk
Introduction Welcome to a selection of circular walks that will show you some of the beautiful scenery around North Devon. The walks in this booklet are shorter walks perfect for a half days walking, or a walk to take time over with a picnic and camera. I have been showing people around North Devon and Exmoor since 1987 when I provided walking and cycling holidays. I then started the walking festival in 2000 which I have devised and run ever since. We are blessed with an excellent rights of way network which is well maintained so I can be fairly confident that the walks described will be passable at all times. I have written the walks so you can follow them just from the text. But for those who can map-read I have included the OS grid references. These can also be useful if you want to try and learn to map-read, by following the route and using these references on the map as you walk. It is always sensible to have a map with you as it can help answer questions on what surrounds you as you walk along. It is quite common for stiles to be replaced by bridle or kissing gates and this might have happened since I wrote the text. So don’t be worried if I say cross a stile and you find a bridle gate. I give extra information which should together ensure you are still on the right path. Most of the walks here have been included in the walking festivals at some time. I hope you enjoy walking them. Happy walking! Bryan Cath How to use the OS grid references in this booklet: The SS pins the reference to this area. You can ignore it assuming you have bought the 1:25,000 map for this area, Explorer 126, OL9 for Arlington walk. The first 3 numbers refer to the numbers along the top (or bottom) of the map. Taking the first walks first reference, 611, go along the top (or bottom) to 61 and then divide the square to 62 into imagined tenths, going across by 1/10th. The next 3 numbers 408 refer to the numbers down the left (or right) hand side of the map. Go up the map to 40 and again divide 40 - 41 into tenths, going up by 8/10ths. Then join the two imaginary lines and where they cross is the grid reference location. Copyright Š Bryan Cath, 2012 All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or any information storage and retrieval system, without prior permission in writing from the copyright holder and Publisher. www.combewalks.com
Cover picture: Hartlands rugged coastline 1
Content Page Walk Name
Distance
3
Arlington Court and its grounds
3.1 or 4.5 miles
7
Hartland via Stoke
4.6 miles
11
Brownsham via Exmansworthy
5.4 miles
15
East Titchberry via Hartland Point
5.8 miles
19
Brownsham via Clovelly
6 miles
This Booklet is part of a series: • • • • • • • • • •
5 Half Day Walks from Ilfracombe 5 Half Day Walks in North Devon 5 Full Day Walks in North Devon 5 Half Day Walks in Exmoor 5 Full Day Walks in Exmoor 6 Car-free ‘Ride and Walk’ Walks in Exmoor 7 Cycle Rides in North Devon & The Exmoor Challenge 7 Cycle Rides in North and Mid Devon 16 Best Picnic Spots in North Devon 16 Best Picnic Spots in Exmoor and the Quantocks
The half day walks are from about 3.5 to 6.5 miles. The full day walks are from about 7 miles to 10 miles, taking into account the hilliness of the area. The cycle rides are based on the Tarka Trail and interlink, giving a wide range of distances available. The Exmoor Challenge is a mountain bike ride. The Picnic Spots are all accessible by car and mostly have walks close by. 2
Arlington Court (NT) and the grounds Fact File: Highlights: Arlington Court (NT), Memorial Urn to Rosalie Chichester, old suspension bridge towers, Obelisk commemorating Queen Victoria’s Jubilee, carriage exhibition. Start Grid ref: SS 611 408 Distance: 3.1 miles approx. or 4.5 miles taking in the ‘Wilderness’ Height gained/lost: 157 metres, Easy but possibly muddy in parts Highest Point: 202 metres Lowest Point: 119 metres Toilets: Next to the restaurant Eating Places: In the restaurant in the main building in season Time required: 2hr 40 min, plus stops Mileages Shown Are Cumulative
2
Lake
Observation Hide
Memorial Urn
3 Tucker's Bridge
4
W
ild
Deerpark Wood
er
ne
Arlington Court
ss
T
7
Pond
5
Stables
Obelisk
A3
9
1
Car park
Roads Rivers
6
Woodland
Route Track
3
Church Food
T
Toilets
Description: This walk starts you at the lovely National Trust property of Arlington Court, giving you time to enjoy the Chichester’s house and contents, together with the attractive grounds, church, stables and horses and carriages. It then takes you down to the peaceful lake, with its wildfowl, and on through woodland by a river, up to the Obelisk and so back to Arlington Court. You can then extend the walk to include the Wilderness part of the grounds, returning by way of the lake. Arlington Lake
Directions to start:
From the Ilfracombe direction go towards Combe Martin. Follow this road, soon becoming the A399, passing through Combe Martin and out the other side following the winding road up out of the valley. When the road eventually straightens out shortly two roads come in from the right together. This junction is called Easter Close. Follow the brown tourist sign to Arlington Court, taking the road that goes down hill to the right from this junction. At the end of this road continue ahead at the sweeping bend of the main road (A39). Follow this road until you see Arlington Court signed off to the left just before a thatched cottage. Follow this road up to the car park on the left. From other directions, pick up the A39, the Barnstaple to Lynmouth road, and Arlington Court is signed off this road on the Barnstaple side of the Blackmoor Gate junction, (A399/A39).
Route Directions: 1, SS611 408: Park the car in the Arlington Court car-park and go through the gate near the top of the car park and down to the National Trust shop, out of season passing through the gate at the side, and in season, registering and passing through the shop. Continue ahead and then turn right, signposted to the Lake Walk 1 mile. Keep to the road and at the gates on the right to the road by Home Farm, keep ahead, taking the track straight on between the ‘Monkey Puzzle’ trees. 2, SS604 402, 1.0 mile: On reaching the Observation hide, it is worth a visit to see the various wildfowl, as well as the remaining towers of an unfinished suspension bridge. Returning to the road follow the track to the 4
right to the lake, ignoring the track ahead. Pass the Memorial Urn to Rosalie Caroline Chichester, cross the dam and take the track round to the left along by the river, signposted to Arlington Court and the Wilderness. 3, SS606 398, 1.3 miles: Shortly, ignore the path off to the left to the Wilderness and house at Smallacombe Bridge, you can do that part later if you want, and ignore the track up to your right. Carry straight on, signposted to Arlington House Loxhore, Deerpark Woods. When the track divides at Tucker’s Bridge take the main one over the river. 4, SS608 394, 1.7 miles: Now take the track off to your left, ignoring the one to the right, and continue on until reaching the stream on your left, and continue up the track. Ignore the track coming in from the right. Continue up through the small cutting and take the path off to the left (blue arrowed), ignoring the paths ahead and to the right, to cross over the stream and up through a gate. 5, SS614 397, 2.3 miles: Follow the fence round to the right to follow along by the row of old beech trees, to two gates. Keep straight ahead, ignoring the track across you. Pass through the next gate and on between the fence and old wall to the next pair of gates, with the obelisk, Arlington Court and church over to your left. 6, SS614 402, 2.6 miles: Continue straight ahead, following the blue arrow, along by the wall on your right to the next gate. Take the track up to the right to the next gate on the left. Pass through this gate and woods to reach the road, turning left down to the back of the coach house, turning left again to go round to the coach house. This is well-worth a visit. From here continue along the gravel road into Arlington Court grounds again. 7, SS612 404, 3.0 miles: If you want to lengthen the walk by about 1.5 miles, via the Nature Trail and Wilderness, pass the church and turn left and immediately left again, down to the pond. Pass round the pond to the track and turn left. Follow the stream down. When the track divides, take the lower track to the left, to the gate, and on to the next gate by the river. Turn right, back to the lake and back along the path you started the original walk on.
5
Notes: Arlington Court was built around 1820 by Colonel John Palmer Chichester (1769-1823). The house was considerably extended by his grandson, Sir Bruce Chichester in 1865. It is interesting that no attempt was made to keep the addition in the original style, but was clearly of Victorian architecture. Rosalie Chichester, the unmarried daughter and heiress of Sir Bruce donated the property to the National Trust in 1949, on her death. This walk passes the urn by the lake where her ashes are held. At one end of the lake are two towers of an unfinished suspension bridge, which was going to carry the road to the house, with views over the lake. It would have been very splendid, but unfortunately finances stopped that aspiration. The walled kitchen garden provides food for the tea-rooms and flowers for the house. The greenhouse was rebuilt in 1980 but unfortunately was made of softwood which has not weathered well and the Trust are looking for donations to rebuild the structure with more long-lasting material. The Carriage Museum is now the National Trusts main Carriage Collection with over 50 horse-drawn carriages. It is housed in the original stables with a smart, modern extension. Some carriages get an airing around the grounds of the house. There is even the grand Speaker’s State Coach on display. The church of St James is also worth a visit with many memorials to the Chichester family. The Obelisk marks the spot where a bonfire was lit to commemorate Queen Victoria’s Jubilee, 21 June 1887. Sir Francis Chichester was born nearby in Shirwell near Barnstaple in 1901. In 1929 he made a solo flight to Australia in a Gypsy Moth aeroplane. In 1966-7 he sailed a single-handed circumnavigation from Plymouth to Australia and back in Gypsy Moth IV. He was awarded a knighthood by Queen Elizabeth II in July 1967. He died in 1972 and is buried at Shirwell church.
6
Hartland via Stoke Fact file: Highlights: St Nectan’s Church, Hartland Abbey, ancient woodland and old coaching road Start Grid ref: SS 259 244 Distance: 4.6 miles, circular Height gained/lost: 184 metres, starts easy, becoming moderate, finishing easy. Highest Point: 118 metres Lowest Point: 47 metres Toilets: Stoke, Hartland Eating Places: Hartland, Stoke (in season) Time required: 2hr 40 min, plus stops Mileages shown are cumulative
Blackpool Mill Markadon Ab
be
y
Ri
8
ve
9
r
Hartland Quay
T
Hartland Abbey
T
Stoke
11
10
7
12
13 14 T 15
6 4 Roads Rivers
Woodland
Route Track
5
Church Food
T
Toilets
7
3
2
1
Hartland B32
48
Route Description: This walk passes through attractive valleys and ancient woodland. You will get some excellent views over and along the Abbey River valley. The walk passes the beautiful large St Nectan’s Church which is well worth a visit to see its painted wagon roof and intricately carved rood screen and 128ft tower. The walk also follows some ancient tracks and part of an old coaching road before returning to Hartland.
Hartland Abbey
Directions to start: From the A39 between Bideford and Kilkhampton, take the B3248 on the Kilkhampton side of Clovelly Cross, towards Hartland. Continue ahead through the village street, turning right by the church and memorial cross into The Square to then turn right again in front of the Hart Inn to the free car park.
Route Directions: 1, SS259 244: Leave the car park from the main entrance, by the Hart Inn and turn left to pass the church and then turn right. Shortly continue into Spring Field, pass the telephone box to the gate ahead. 2, SS257 243, 0.1 mile: Pass through the gate or kissing gate beside it and cross the stile by the next gate. Now take the right-hand fork which keeps level. After a short way drop down to cross the footbridge over a stream and bear right to cross the next footbridge by the track. 3, SS253 241, 0.4 miles: Now take the path bearing left uphill signed to Elmscott, ignoring the track along the valley bottom. Follow this path up through the woods. Near the top bear left over to a stone stile in the stone wall (Devon bank). 4, SS251 241, 0.5 miles: Cross this stile and continue ahead on this track ignoring the gate down to the right. On reaching the small road, continue ahead over the bridge over a stream. Follow this small road uphill to pass Newton Farm to reach a T-junction. 5, SS245 236, 1.1 miles: Turn right on to this road, keeping on it to Stoke. Soon the church with the folly behind and the Abbey valley open in front of you, with Lundy Island over to the right. 8
6, SS237 245, 1.8 miles: When this road forks by the 30mph signs, bear left and follow this small road to the next crossroad of tracks, turning right towards the church. 7, SS235 246, 2.0 miles: On reaching the next road, turn left towards the toilet block. The large church is well worth a visit. Return to the toilet block and take Abbey River in Pattard Woods the small road down into the valley signed ‘unsuitable for motors’. Follow it down into the valley to cross the river bridge with Hartland Abbey over to your right. Continue along this road up the other side of the valley. 8, SS235 252, 2.6 miles: Just before the brow of the hill, go through the gate on your right signed ‘Public Footpath’ and follow this alongside the hedged Devon bank on your left. Cross the next double stile into the field ahead to pass by the next stile in the broken down wire fence. Pass the next abandoned stile and standing stone to reach the gate on the far side of this field. 9, SS243 251, 3.1 miles: Pass through it and turn right down the small road. 10, SS245 248, 3.4 miles: At the bottom, opposite the iron gate to Hartland Abbey, take the track opposite on your left which goes up by Home Lodge. Follow this sunken lane up between the Devon banks until in emerges out of the woods. Continue ahead until reaching a junction of tracks and selection of gates. 11, SS250 250, 3.9 miles: Go to the gate hardest on your right to cross the stile. Now follow the fenced Devon bank on your left down to the bottom left corner and stile. Follow the path down through the woods, soon following an old Devon bank on your right into the valley. 12, SS252 248, 4.1 miles: On reaching the track along the bottom of the valley, bear left on to it and cross the stile by the gate. Bear right from here to cross the footbridge over the river. Now follow the path ahead and slightly left to follow an old track through the woods. 13, SS255 246, 4.3 miles: At the end bear right to go along beside a chain-link fence to reach a kissing gate. 14, SS257 245, 4.4 miles: Turn right on to the road and on reaching the main road bear left along West Street. There is no pavement in places so 9
watch for cars. Springfield Pottery is on your right. 15, SS258 244, 4.6 miles: At the next junction take the road ahead by the public toilets, keeping straight on to the car park. Notes: Hartland Abbey was built in the 12th Century and was concecrated in 1160 as a monastry to serve St Nectan’s church at Stoke. The Abbey continued as a monastry until 1539 when Henry VIII dissolved it. It was the longest running monastry in the country. Henry VIII made a gift of the Abbey to his sergeant of his wine cellar, William Abbott. The house has then descended through a series of marriages to the present day owners. It has never been sold and is still used as a family home. In 2007 the BBC filmed Sense and Sensibility. Blackpool Mill cottage was used and ‘redesigned’ for the filming. It is situated on the coast by the Abbey River. The Antiques Roadshow visited Hartland Abbey in July 2011 and was broadcast in early 2012. Over 3000 people brought along their treasured possessions. Sir Hugh and Lady Angela Stucley are the present incumbents. Sir Hugh has led walks for the walking festival. The Abbey is open for visitors on certain days. Please check their website or the local tourist office.
10
Brownsham via Exmansworthy Fact file: Highlights: South West Coast Path and impressive coastal scenery, Windbury Hillfort, Memorial to the crew of a Wellington bomber, wooded valleys, Blackchurch Rock, Mouthmill limekiln, Brownsham Woods Start Grid ref: SS 285 259 Distance: 5.4 miles, circular Height gained/lost: 350 metres, starts easy to moderate, becomes harder through the Beckland valley, ending moderate to easy. Highest Point: 161 metres Lowest Point: 10 metres Toilets: None Eating Places: None Time required: 3 hours, plus stops Mileages shown are cumulative
Roads
Exm
ans
9
8
wor
thy
Clif f
Route Track
9 10 S
out
h
10Bro
st C
Exmansworthy
oa
sh
st Pa t
11
6
am
h
3
Beckland Farm
4
Food
T
Toilets
Windbury Point
Cl
iff
11
Beckland Cliff
12
12
Waterfall
13
13
14
3
5
Church
Beckland Bay
wn
We
7
4
Woodland

Rivers
16
Brownsham Cliff
15
14
2
Brownsham Woods
2 Brownsham
Blackchurch Rock Mouthmill
1
17
1 18 18
11
Route Description: This walk passes through farmland and quiet Devon lanes before reaching the South West Coast Path. It then follows the coast with wonderful views across to Lundy Island and of coastal erosion. The large Blackchurch Rock with its two ‘windows’ or arches is always ahead of you and is reached when you get to Mouthmill. It then Windbury Point becomes obvious as to how large it is. Be careful of the rocks here as they are slippery and are also covered with sharp barnacles if you try to go over to the arches. The walk finishes by gently regaining height through the Brownsham Woods.
Directions to start: From the A39 between Bideford and Kilkhampton, take the B3248 on the Kilkhampton side of Clovelly Cross, towards Hartland. After 1.4 miles take a fork right signed to the lighthouse. Go a further 0.8 miles and fork right again. At the next junction turn right and soon bear left into the National Trust car park.
Route Directions: 1, SS285 259: At Brownsham car park, with the road behind you, follow the footpath out of the car park signed to Beckland Woods and Coast Path, along the side of a field. At the edge of the woods pass through the bridle gate and then bear back left to cross the bridge over the stream. 2, SS284 261, 0.1 miles: Now turn left towards Beckland Farm and go through the next bridle gate. Now aim up the middle of this field towards a large separate barn roof on the horizon. 3, SS280 262, 0.5 miles: At the top of this field go to the right-hand gate and then turn left on to the track. On reaching the farm bear left to follow the road between the farm buildings. Continue on this road until reaching a road coming in from the left. 4, SS275 259, 0.9 miles: Continue ahead and at the next road junction bear right towards Exmansworthy and Fattacott. 5, SS269 262, 1.1 mile: At the next road junction turn right to the same places. Follow this road until you reach the Exmansworthy National Trust 12
car park on the right. 6, SS270 266, 1.5 miles: Enter it and exit in the far left-hand corner signed to the Coast Path. At the stile by a gate, cross it and continue ahead along an old track with hedged Devon banks both sides. 7, SS272 268, 1.7 miles: At the end cross the stile by a gate and turn left to follow the hedged Blackchurch Rock Devon bank on your left. Cross the next stile by a gate and continue ahead ignoring the gate on the left. 8, SS271 273, 1.8 miles: On reaching the South West Coast Path turn right on to it signed to Windbury and follow it along the cliff edge. 9, SS274 271, 1.9 miles: At the other side of this field go left over the stile to keep on the Coast Path. Good coastal scenery now opens up with the double arched (or windowed) Blackchurch Rock on the headland ahead. 10, SS277 268, 2.2 miles: At the end of this field cross the next stile and continue to pass through the next bridle gate. 11, SS280 266, 2.5 miles: Cross the next stile to then drop down through a small wooded valley, over a bridge and up to the next stile. At the other side of this next field cross the stile to then cross the next two stiles. 12, SS284 266, 2.8 miles: You are now at Windbury Hillfort and the memorial to the crew of a Wellington bomber which crashed beneath these cliffs on 13th April 1942. At the junction of paths is a shortcut to the right to Brownsham car park. Continue ahead on the Coast Path to Mouthmill. At the next bridle gate before the valley pass through to admire the views ahead and follow the Coast Path at the next signpost by a seat, to Mouthmill. 13, SS289 265, 3.2 miles: Having rounded the headland at the next signpost turn hard left signed to Mouthmill along the Coast Path. The path drops into the Beckland Valley, across a bridge and then zigzags up the other side. There are seats on the way up. 14, SS290 264, 3.5 miles: On reaching the stile at the top, ignore the path to the right to Brownsham car park and cross this stile turning left along the field and cliff edge. Soon follow the field edge to the left to reach the next stile with steps. 15, SS296 264, 3.9 miles: Continue ahead to cross the next stile into 13
woodland. Follow the zigzag path to the bottom of the valley. 16, SS298 264, 4.1 miles: On reaching the track at the bottom, turn left to the beach to see the old large limekiln with its unusual draught tunnels on opposite sides. Go down to the beach to see Blackchurch Rock close up. I estimate that it is about 50 metres high. If the tide allows, be careful if you go over to Blackchurch Rock as the rocks are slippery and sharp with barnacles. Mouthmill is a good place to have a picnic. Now return along the same track with the river on your left, to follow it up the valley. After a short while ignore the track coming in from behind right, continuing ahead to the T-junction of tracks. 17, SS296 259, 4.6 miles: Bear right on to the main track which goes gently uphill signed Public Bridleway. 18, SS287 258, 5.1miles: After a while pass through a gate or the wide pinch-stile beside it, pass by the Lower Brownsham Farm buildings and turn left up the road. 19, SS285 259, 5.4 miles: Shortly turn right into the car park.
14
East Titchberry via Hartland Point Fact file: Highlights: East Titchberry Farm (NT), Hartland Point lighthouse, Smoothlands, South West Coast Path Start Grid ref: SS 244 270 Distance: 5.8 miles, circular Height gained/lost: 403 metres, moderate with some steep ascents and descents Highest Point: 100 metres Lowest Point: 10 metres Toilets: none Eating Places: none Time required: 3hr 40 min, plus stops Mileages shown are cumulative
Hartland Point
Barley Bay
4
3
Shipload Bay
Radar Station
12
2
Blagdon Farm
West Titchberry
East
1 Titchberry 11 Waterfall
Smoothlands Damehole Point
Blegberry
6
10
7 Waterfall
5
8
Blackpool Mill
Roads Rivers
Woodland

Route
9
Track
Markadon
15
Church Food
T
Toilets
Route Description: This walk starts at a delightful thatched farmhouse given to the National Trust in 1943. The walk then follows the coast path with excellent views of the Hartland Point lighthouse. One then reaches Smoothlands which is geographically most interesting. This valley was once part of the Titchberry Water but the sea has Hartland Lighthouse eroded away the northern section allowing the stream to reach the sea more directly. This is called a seacapture, creating a sea-dissected valley through which you walk. The walk soon heads inland and passes through an ancient settlement, following old green lanes before eventually returning to the start.
Directions to start: Go to the A39 between Clovelly and Kilkhampton. From Clovelly Cross roundabout go towards Kilkhampton and as the main road swings to the left, turn right on to the B3248. Now follow the signs to Hartland Point lighthouse and East Titchberry Farm has a lay-by car park on the right as the road bears round a left bend about half a mile before reaching Hartland Point car park.
Route Directions: 1, SS244 270: From the East Titchberry Farm car park (NT) go down the lane to its right hand side, signed Coast Path Bridleway. Pass by East Titchberry Farm on the concrete road. At the set of three gates take the central one up the hedged track. 2, SS244 272, 0.2 miles: At the coast bear left on to the coast path signed to Hartland Point. Cross the stile and follow the field edge to the next stile in the corner. Continue ahead to the next stile and again to the next stile. Cross the next stile and bear down to the right to the next stile by a gate. Follow the fenced path towards the radar ‘football’ and round it to reach the Hartland Point car park and café. 3, SS235 275, 1.0 mile: Continue ahead along the old lighthouse road towards the radio mast. At the lighthouse gates bear up to the left signed Coast Path. At the radio station turn hard left on the coast path to follow the edge of the field to the next stile. 4, SS231 275, 1.3 miles: Continue ahead to pass the memorial stone to the Glenart Castle hospital ship to then go right and left along the coast 16
path. Soon you round a bay’s cliff edge crossing a stile at the top. Soon drop down into a valley to follow the coast path inland to pass a caravan, cross a bridge and up steps the other side. 5, SS230 266, 2.1 miles: At the top bear right through a gate and back towards the coast. At the corner of this field continue ahead on the coast path to pass a Damehole Point stile. Follow along the bottom of the Smoothlands valley and at the other end the cliff edge forces you to the left up the point. Be careful here in high winds. 6, SS225 261, 2.7 miles: At the top continue along the cliff edge. 7, SS226 260, 2.8 miles: Before dropping down into the next valley, there is a shortcut on the left to Blegberry. Continuing along the coast path, drop down into this valley to cross the bridge at the bottom. Follow the path up the other side to a stile. 8, SS226 258, 3.0 miles: Cross over this stile and now turn left inland along a Public Footpath, leaving the coast path behind. Follow what becomes a track round to the right alongside an old Devon bank on your left. Near the top pass through a gate and continue along this track. 9, SS234 254, 3.6 miles: On reaching the road, ignore the road and take the second gate on the left down a hedged track signed ‘Unsuitable for motor vehicles’. Follow it into the valley and up the other side to reach Blegberry. Follow the track round to the right and up to the tarmac road by buildings. Continue ahead up the farm road. 10, SS232 262, 4.2 miles: The shortcut footpath comes in on the left. Turn right to follow the level road away from the farm. Shortly you come to a track bearing off left with three gates. Take the first one on the left signed Public Bridleway, down another hedged track. Follow this down into the valley, roughly towards the radar ‘football’. Cross the stream bridge to follow the stream to a bridle gate. 11, SS233 268, 5.0 miles: Now follow the track to the right signed to Blagdon. Pass through the gate and follow the top edge of this field to a gate in the top corner. Continue along the track to the farm, bearing left at the farmhouse up the farm road. 12, SS235 273, 5.3 miles: On reaching the swinging bend in the road ahead, turn right towards the radar ‘football’ to pass the car park ticket hut. 17
Now follow the road, passing West Titchberry Farm on your right before returning to the car park. Notes: East Titchberry Farm is owned by the National Trust as a working farm. It dates back to the 15th Century and has 120 acres with Aberdeen Angus cows and Jacob sheep. It has recently been refurbished and is available as a self-catering let. The M.o.D. ‘football’ is the R.A.F. Hartland radar station was set up to oversee the firing range beyond Lundy Island. Hartland Point lighthouse was built in 1874. The sea started to undermine the foundation rocks and a permanent sea defence was built in 1925. The lighthouse was manned by 4 keepers who lived in dwellings attached to the lighthouse. The lighthouse was automated in 1984 and the dwellings demolished to provide space for a helipad. Smoothlands is a very unusual geographical area. This valley is known as sea-dissected where the sea erosion has caused the stream to abandon its original valley to take the now direct route to the sea over a waterfall. Blegberry Farmhouse is a Grade II listed farmhouse. Thought to be early 17th Century, possibly 1627, and then extended until early 19th Century.
18
Brownsham via Clovelly Fact file: Highlights: Clovelly Estate and village, South West Coast Path, The Angel’s Wings, Blackchurch Rock, Mouthmill lime kiln Start Grid ref: SS 284 259 Distance: 6 miles, circular Height gained/lost: 468 metres, Easy with one steep descent and climb Highest Point: 133 metres Lowest Point: 6 metres Toilets: Only at Clovelly. Eating Places: Various at Clovelly, otherwise none. Time required: 3hr 20 min, plus stops Mileages shown are cumulative
Roads
Windbury Point
Rivers
Blackchurch Rock
Waterfall
14
15 Brownsham
Route
Mouthmill
Track
12
2
Yapham
3
10
Food
T
Toilets
Court Farm
9
4 5
8 Clovelly Court
6 T
48
Church
11
13
1
B32
Woodland
Lighthouse Cross
Higher Clovelly
19
7
Burscott
Clovelly
Description: This walk takes in some attractive woodland walking, a rather well-todo farm Estate, and takes you to Clovelly, the totally unique fishing village of bygone days, clinging to a very steep sided valley. It is a tourist hot-spot in season, and quite deserted off season. You are then taken back along the coastpath, showing you some marvellous coastal scenery and rock formations before returning to your car.
Clovelly
Directions To Start: Make your way to Barnstaple, and then follow the signs to Bideford on the A39, which is the extension to the North Devon Link Road. Continue on this all the way to Clovelly Cross, and take the next turning on the right after the roundabout at Clovelly Cross, where the main road turns sharp left, signposted to Hartland. Follow this road round until reaching the road bearing off to the right to the lighthouse. Follow this until another road bears off to the right to Brownsham. Follow this until you reach Brownsham and park in the National Trust car-park.
Route Directions: 1, SS284 259: Leave the car-park the way you drove in, down the small steps signposted to Mouthmill and Clovelly, continuing down the road to the farm buildings. Turn right following the Bridleway signpost down the track into the woods. Ignore gates soon on your right, and pass over the stile by the gate ahead. Ignore the next stile/bridge on the right, continuing along the track by the stream and down into the wooded valley. Ignore the next track off up hill to the left. 2, SS296 259, 0.8 miles: After a while ignore the next track off to the left, following the Bridleway signpost ahead. On the other side of the stream at the T junction of tracks, bear left on the Bridleway. Shortly take the path off up to the right, signpost Bridleway. Keep dogs under control now, you will see why shortly - not for the obvious reason! 3, SS300 258, 1.1 miles: Pass through the gate at the top (blue waymarked) and into the field, following the fence on the left to the gate and signpost at the top of the field. Are there pheasants everywhere? Follow the Bri20
dleway signpost up to the right and then round to the left along the top of the field until reaching the gate in the far corner (blue waymarked). Pass through and follow the track to the next gate and on down the track, through the next two gates ahead and into the farm yard. 4, SS305 252, 1.6 miles: Continue ahead down the track between the farm houses and down the farm Angel’s Wings road. Ignore the track on the left to the coastpath and then the track on the right, instead continuing ahead following the Bridleway signpost. 5, SS309 251, 1.9 miles: Soon pass the house and church on your left, and walk up the drive to the gate-house and iron gates. Note the inscription on the house. Now follow the road to your left, to Clovelly, going along the pavement until you come to the large sign saying ‘All Vehicles to Clovelly’. 6, SS314 249, 2.3 miles: Ignore that and continue down the road, ignoring the cobbled path off to the right, until you reach the coast-path sign. Take note of where you are and continue round to the right to visit Clovelly. 7, SS315 249, 2.9 miles: Having enjoyed yourself there, return to this coastpath sign and follow the coast-path through the large gate in the wall/ fence on the left of the road going down the hill. Do not go down the hill. You are back in the Clovelly Court Estate. Follow the track round to the right, to the coastpath signpost, where you follow the path down to the right (yellow waymarked). 8, SS313 253, 3.2 miles: After a while pass through the kissing-gate (yellow waymarked) and follow the fence on your right until reaching the small kissing-gate in the shrubbery. Follow this path and soon a covered seat appears on the right, ideal for a break, assuming no-one is already there! 9, SS308 258, 3.7 miles: Carry on through the shrubbery and through the next two kissing-gates. After a while turn right at the T junction, following the coastpath sign, and right again at the next fork. Soon you come to an original seat called the ‘Angels Wings’, with nice woodcarvings. On reaching the track take the coastpath hard to the right, not along the track. 10, SS306 259, 3.9 miles: Follow this path until in descends steeply into a valley, to a track. Go right and immediately left and immediately right again and follow this track down the valley to the shore. Also note the old lime kiln. Go down the narrow path, and carefully cross the stream by the steppingstones. Pause at the shore and notice the rock formations (Blackchurch Rock) and the waterfall along the coast to your left (if the tide is out). Also 21
take time to look at the old lime kiln. Is that a wind-break wall on its seaward side? 11, SS298 264, 4.6 miles: Now follow the grass track past the lime kiln and old building. Shortly take the coastpath up to your right. Halfway up, follow the steps up to the right, ignoring the path going on ahead. 12, SS297 264, 4.8 miles: On reaching the top, cross the stile by the N.T. sign Brownsham, and follow the hedge/fence on your right round the edge of the field to the steps/stile. Continue ahead by the fence on the right. 13, SS290 264, 5.3 miles: On reaching the next signpost by a stile, cross this stile and turn immediately left, leaving the coastpath down the steps behind. Follow the right-hand edge of the field along the edge of the valley, to the next stile and down into the valley. 14, SS287 263, 5.5 miles: At the next signpost by a seat, take a small detour down into the valley and cross the stream, turn left and follow the ‘Alternative woodland path’ along to the next bridge and back to the original path, turning right and up to the gate, signposted to Brownsham and the car-park. 15, SS284 260, 5.8 miles: Keep to the right-hand side of this field until reaching the stile with the car-park where you started on the other side.
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Published and written by Combe Walks
Copyright Š Bryan Cath, 2012
www.combewalks.com
Brownsham via Clovelly
5
2
East Titchberry via Hartland Point
4
5
Brownsham via Exmansworthy
3
3
Hartland via Stoke
2
4
Arlington Court and its grounds
1
1