Top 10 Travel Experiences

TOP 10 TRAVEL EXPERIENCES We bring you the pick of the world’s heritage destinations, from the amazing rock churches of Ethiopia to the grandeur of St Petersburg’s Hermitage

PLUS Eight heritage experiences in the UK

Explore a Yorkshire coal mine and Devon’s shipwreck coast

Framed by its isolation, St Helena weaves an extraordinary tapestry of breath-taking natural beauty with over 500 years of history and culture. One of the last truly undiscovered destinations.

St Helena Island

images: www.marclavaud.com

“the most extraordinary place on earth� Tel: + 290 22158 | www.sthelenatourism.com | e-mail: enquiries@tourism.co.sh

TOP 10 TRAVEL EXPERIENCES

WELCOME

MAGAZINE Visit America’s Civil War sights, p16

It’s the time of year when many people like to plan their holidays and so we thought we’d lend a hand with our pick of history travel experiences from around the world. We’ve asked our regular expert, Tom Hall of Lonely Planet, to help us with this guide and I hope you’ll agree that he’s put together a stimulating range of destinations. It has certainly provided me with a welcome diversion from the grey skies surrounding our office today!

Of course, Britain has plenty of historical delights of its own and, to reflect that, we’ve also commissioned Julian Humphrys to offer his selections of heritage experiences closer to home. So, whether it is Stirlingshire or Sri Lanka, I’m sure you’ll find something to interest you in the pages that follow.

Rob Attar Editor

Explore the battlefields of Normandy, p19

Discover Ethiopia’s ‘eighth wonder of the world’, p22

CORBIS/GETTY IMAGES/AKG IMAGES

Savour the sights and sounds of a Sri Lankan festival, p15

Top 10 Travel Experiences is a free supplement presented within the February 2014 issue of BBC History Magazine which is published by Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited under licence from BBC Worldwide.

To contact us phone 0117 314 7377, email historymagazine@historyextra.com or write to BBC History Magazine, Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited, Tower House, Fairfax Street, Bristol BS1 3BN

BBC History Magazine Top 10 Travel Experiences

Go on one of the great historical pilgrimages, p20

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razil’s time in the spotlight is fast approaching. With a football World Cup and Olympic Games coming in quick succession to South America’s largest country, there’s little chance of avoiding the sun, sand and samba clichés that sum up for many the appeal of Brazil. Delve a little deeper and the country’s rich history offers an alternative focus – and one that will leave the crowds behind.

However you approach your visit to Brazil you’ll end up passing through Rio de Janeiro or Sao Paulo. These giants of the south-east can be seen to make up two points of a triangle with Belo Horizonte, the inland capital of the state of Minas Gerais. This city forms a gateway to exploring the state, which is the second most populous in the country and was once highly prized by colonial Portugal for its mineral wealth. Its riches have left behind a fine legacy in the shape of the cidades historiIF YOU LIKE THIS... cas (historic cities). ! Portuguese Throughout the region you’ll colonial history can find well-preserved examples also be found on the of towns with atmospheric Ilha de Moçamcobbled streets, Baroque bique, an island off churches and low-rise colonial northern Mozambuildings. The town of Ouro bique. It is a UNESCO-rated Preto, perhaps the best destination with known, was the scene for the beautiful beaches start of Brazil’s gold rush in and historic the 18th century and was also architecture. the birthplace of early ! Argentina’s lively Brazilian independence capital of Buenos demands. Other fine stops in Aires is another Minas Gerais include Lavras superb place to Novas, Mariana and, should explore the history of South America. you want to see a mix of From there, modern and colonial influUruguay’s city of ences, São João del Rei. Colonia de SacraAdding to the lost-world mento, which has a atmosphere is the damp, cool fascinating historic climate that pervades Minas quarter, is a short Gerais, and the famed ferry ride away. hospitality of local people who seem to appreciate anyone BEST TIME TO GO Avoid the big tearing themselves away from events, but otherthe coast to explore their part wise Brazil is of the world. Belo Horizonte brilliant at any time. itself is hosting football matches in both the World TOUR OPERATORS Cup and Olympics, including Journey Latin one World Cup group match America offer a involving England, so there’s variety of tailormade trips and the chance of spotting organised tours. participants passing through. journeylatin Either way, a few days america.co.uk exploring are richly rewarded.

REX FEATURES

TOP 10 TRAVEL EXPERIENCES 4

Wander the quiet streets of Brazil’s unique colonial cities

The colonial city of Ouro Preto, now a World Heritage site, was the birthplace of Brazil’s 18th-century gold rush

BBC History Magazine Top 10 Travel Experiences

1 The people of Minas Gerais are famed for their hospitality, appreciating anyone who tears themselves away from the coast to explore their part of the world

BBC History Magazine Top 10 Travel Experiences

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The Hermitage embodies a lost era of Russian opulence expressed in endless vast corridors, fine rooms and sweeping staircases

urely no one goes to St Petersburg without visiting the State Hermitage. Why would you? The buildings containing its thousands of wonderful works of art are reason enough to go, embodying a lost era of Russian opulence expressed in endless vast corridors, fine rooms and sweeping staircases. The galleries have superb permanent displays of Monet, Matisse, da Vinci and other world-class artists, as well as objects and treasures from across Europe, Asia and beyond. Many art buffs gorge themselves in here for days on end, and anyone keen on seeing even a fraction of the treats on offer should make a full day of it – and bring sustenance to keep them going.

The 250th anniversary of the museum is in 2014 and a flurry of IF YOU LIKE THIS... renovation and ! Another museum refurbishment has complex that may taken place over the take a week to past few years to explore can be ensure the Hermitage found in Washington DC at the Smithsonis better than ever. ian, a complex of The museums are 19 separate popular and crowds museums. can be large, but in ! St Petersburg’s the five vast interconRussian Museum necting buildings that is another treasure make up the Hermittrove of Russian age it is more than art if you’ve got possible to escape the stamina for more culture. the throng, especially if you aim for the BEST TIME TO GO harder-to-access May to September section on the first sees the city at its floor. Tickets can be best, but either end booked in advance, of this time commeaning you can skip bines a chance of the queue and arrive good weather with smaller crowds. any time. You may also want to try to TOUR OPERATORS make the most of the Regent Holidays are first and last hours of a long-time expert opening each day in holidays to Russia when you’ll find it and surrounding easier to get countries. a quiet view of regent-holidays. better-known works. co.uk

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Visitors to the Hermitage can gorge themselves on permanent displays of world-famous artists including Monet, Matisse and da Vinci REX FEATURES

TOP 10 TRAVEL EXPERIENCES 6

Discover the recently renovated Hermitage in St Petersburg

BBC History Magazine Top 10 Travel Experiences

life & death in

Pompeii & Herculaneum The whole story of the ancient sites devastated by the cataclysmic eruption of Vesuvius. From slaves to Caesars; brothels to bathhouses: a haunting picture of ordinary people caught in an extraordinary disaster.

Pompeii - no other site can compare in revealing the scale and proportions of a Roman town - vivid, immediate and haunting.

The smaller town of Herculaneum, even better preserved where carbonised furniture & food survived.

The Greek temples of Magna Graecia at Paestum.

The treasures of Naples Museum - from poignant everyday utensils to superbly crafted mosaics.

andante travels: expert-led journeys Andante Travels has been a leading provider of cultural travel for 29 years. Our tours are planned and led by historians, archaeologists, writers and broadcasters. They include an expert guide, special access, handpicked hotels & tour manager: truly civilised journeys into history...

5, 7 & 8 Days | Tours throughout the year | From £1150

Explore the best of the ancient (and not so ancient) world. From Classical Civilisation to the Normandy Landings we offer more archaeological and historical tours than any other UK tour operator. A selection from our 2014 programme is below:

The Archaeology of D-Day Follow in the footsteps of the allied forces, 70 years after the Normandy landings.

Ancient Sicily Temples, villas, mosaics and Cathedrals: cultural melting pot of the ancient Mediterranean.

Historic Istanbul Palaces, mosques & minarets an insider’s guide to the hidden byways of Old Constantinople.

Peru & Bolivia A trip of a lifetime: Machu Picchu, Lake Titicaca, the Nazca Lines and much more.

145 expert-led tours - prices from as little as £495 Call us for fully priced 2014 brochure call +44 (0)1722 713800 | tours@andantetravels.co.uk | www.andantetravels.co.uk

K I R K E R C U LT U R A L TO U RS f o r

d i s c e r n i n g

t r a v e l l e r s

Our programme of Cultural Tours has been created to provide discerning travellers with a range of carefully crafted escorted holidays. Key subjects covered include Art, History, Architecture, Archaeology, Gardens & Music and groups typically consist of between 12 and 22 like-minded travellers.

A selection of tours are highlighted below - for full details, ask for a copy of our Cultural Tours & Music Holidays brochure.

FLORENCE - CRADLE OF THE RENAISSANCE A FIVE NIGHT ESCORTED HOLIDAY | 17 NOVEMBER 2014

Our new tour with the art historian Charlie Hall has been designed to introduce some of the lesserknown treasures of Florence alongside the city’s great collections and galleries.

We shall follow the development of the Renaissance which began when immensely rich and powerful families used their position to endorse their standing in society. The legacy of this artistic patronage is still to be found everywhere.

Staying at the 4* Santa Maria Novella in the heart of Florence, we will explore the city’s many renaissance churches and chapels including the exquisite Ruccellai Chapel and the church of San Lorenzo designed by Brunelleschi. We will also visit the Bargello, Uffizi Gallery and the Palazzo Vecchio with its collection of works by Ghirlandaio, Donatello & Michelangelo. There will be some free time at the end of each day to enjoy exploring this fascinating city independently.

Price from £1,325 for five nights including flights, accommodation with breakfast, three dinners and the services of the Kirker Tour Lecturer.

Piazzo Santa Maria Novella

1914-2014 | THE WW1 CENTENARY We are marking this significant anniversary with two new escorted holidays, as well as a study weekend in Oxford - ask for details.

THE WESTERN FRONT

ISTANBUL & GALLIPOLI

SIX NIGHT ESCORTED HOLIDAYS 29 SEPTEMBER & 15 OCTOBER 2014

AN EIGHT NIGHT ESCORTED HOLIDAY | 3 JUNE 2014

From Homer’s Troy to Rupert Brooke’s Gallipoli, the military history and legacy of the Trojans, Greeks, Byzantines and the Ottomans will be explored on this holiday to one of the world’s great melting pots.

After four nights in Istanbul during which we visit Haghia Sophia, the Topkapi Palace, the Archaeological Museum, the Naval Museum and the Florence Nightingale Museum the tour will move to Çanakkale.

Visits will be made to the site of the ancient city of Troy and to the Gallipoli battlefield Charles Dixon, The landing at Anzac, 1915 sites at Cape Helles and Anzac Cove.

Price £1,990 per person including flights, six dinners, four lunches and the services of our Tour Lecturer Dr Neil Faulkner.

Our six night tours to the Western Front will include stays in Ypres, Arras and Amiens.

Visits include the Flanders Fields Museum, Messines Ridge, Paschendael, the French cemetery at Notre Dame de Lorrette, the German Cemetery at Neuville, the Vimy Tunnels,Tilloy and The Menin Gate where we will witness The Last Post ceremony, which takes place each evening.We also spend time at the battlefields of Bullecourt, Cambrai and the Somme.

The tour will travel by Paul Nash, The Menin Road 1919 Eurostar between London St.Pancras and Lille.

Price £1,489 per person including six dinners, standard class Eurostar and the services of the Kirker tour lecturer, Hugh MacDonald-Buchanan.

Ask for a copy of our 2014 Cultural Tours & Music Holidays brochure Holidays include: Albania, Greece & Macedonia Sicily - An Enigmatic Island A Journey Through Romania The Palaces & Galleries of St Petersburg Umbria - The Essence of Italy

Speak to an expert:

020 7593 2284

quote GMH

www.kirkerholidays.com

TOP 10 TRAVEL EXPERIENCES

Take one of the last remaining Royal Mail Ships to remote Saint Helena

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ROBERT HARDING PICTURE LIBRARY

Many people come here to see the island’s 18th-century buildings, village-like capital, and a 180-year-old tortoise named Jonathan

Tourists walk down a flight of steps called Jacob’s Ladder, towards the harbour at Jamestown, Saint Helena

BBC History Magazine Top 10 Travel Experiences

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aint Helena wasn’t always remote. It was once a key stopover for ships travelling down the west coast of Africa from Europe, and as such saw thousands of ships arrive every year.

Sea traffic to the island declined, with ships reliant on trade winds, and today scheduled arrivals are limited to the RMS St Helena, one of the last Royal Mail Ships in service, doggedly plying a route from Ascension Island to St Helena and Cape Town. This lifeline also brings visitors keen to experience a few days on the island and explore its colourful history.

Saint Helena was, most famously, the place of exile for Napoleon I after his defeat at Waterloo, and for many people, visiting the grave of this semilegendary figure is the main reason for coming. But of equal interest are the island’s 18th-century buildings, its village-like capital, Jamestown, and, perhaps most surprisingly, a giant tortoise named Jonathan, IF YOU LIKE THIS... believed to be the ! Another Atlantic world’s oldest animal island outpost that must be reached by at 180 years old. sea is Tristan da The island lacks an Cunha, one of airstrip, reinforcing the world’s the remoteness of remotest places. the place and its ! Napoleon reliance on the Royal enthusiasts should Mail Ship to bring head to the National anything that cannot Museum of be produced on it. the Bonaparte Residence in The uniqueness of Ajaccio, Corsica. this service means getting there, often BEST TIME TO GO combined with an While roughly colder RAF flight from Brize in our summer, and Norton to the warmer during the marvellously named European winter, Wideawake airfield St Helena can be on Ascension Island, visited at any time of year. is a once-in-a-lifetime adventure.

TOUR OPERATORS Voyages Jules Verne (vjv.com) offer 20 or 24-night trips to St Helena via Cape Town. Or you can book direct with RMS St Helena (rms-st-helena.com).

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DISCOVER MALTA’S RICH BRITISH HISTORY Ever since the British assisted Malta to expel the French in 1799, strong ties have existed between the two – and British legacy lives on in many aspects of Maltese daily life...

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uring Roman times Malta was called ‘Melita’, because of the fine-quality honey it produced. This island of delights certainly lives up to this name. But its rocky coastline, azure sea, and welcoming hospitality hide a rich history, where British legacy survives to this day.

After assisting the Maltese to expel the French in 1799, the British found themselves sovereign of the islands of Malta, Gozo and Comino. At first,

‘Through cycles of war and peace, Malta’s fortunes were inextricably linked to those of Britain, and during WWI the islands played a pivotal role in the Mediterranean’

they were uncertain as to whether they should retain the territory.

The Treaty of Amiens in 1802 determined that Malta would be passed back to the Order of St. John, but some of the locals were not keen to return to their former rulers and asked to remain under British protection.

But the Peace of Amiens was short lived – the Napoleonic wars resumed with ferocity. So the British were drawn in to defend Malta, and in the process ended up gaining full sovereignty of the Maltese islands by the provisions of the Treaty of Paris in 1814.

The British soldier Sir Thomas Maitland had just been appointed Governor of Malta, eventually becoming known by the Maltese as ‘King Tom’.

From then on, Malta became an important part of the British Empire, a strategic stronghold in the region, and a stepping-stone for Britain’s expansion to the East,

Aerial view of Birgu (Vittoriosa) in Grand Harbour with Fort St Angelo at the tip of the peninsula opposite Valletta

TIMELINE: 1799-1800:

1814:

1921:

1942:

Arrival of the British

Malta becomes a British colony, under governor Sir Thomas Maitland, aka ‘King Tom’

First selfgovernment

Award of the George Cross

21 September 1964: Independence

2005:

1 May 2004 :

31 March 1979:

13 December 1974:

Malta hosts Commonwealth Heads of Government Meeting (due to host CHOGM again in 2015)

Malta joins European Union

Closure of British Military Base

Malta becomes a Republic, under first president Sir Anthony Mamo

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Saluting Battery at Upper Barracca Gardens, Valletta

especially after the opening of the Suez Canal in 1869.

In the late 19th century, a fortified wall was built, known as the Victoria Lines. Stretching 12 kilometres from Madliena in the east, through Mosta and Bingemma on the west coast, the wall protected the heavily populated south of the island from invading forces landing in the north.

NURSE OF THE MEDITERRANEAN Through cycles of war and peace, Malta’s fortunes were inextricably linked to those of Britain. This was evident during World War I when the islands played a pivotal role in the Mediterranean, acting as a supply station and base for recovering the injured, and earning them the title, ‘Nurse of the Mediterranean’.

After the war, the movement for self-determination grew stronger.

There had been riots in 1919, and the first self-government created in 1921.

WORLD WAR II In World War II, Malta played a very important active role. It was bombarded the day Italy entered the War in June 1940 and for nearly three years endured daily bombardments. King George VI was so impressed by the bravery of the Maltese that he awarded the whole population the George Cross for valour.

Malta achieved Independence on 21st September 1964 (50 years ago), becoming a Republic on 13th December 1974 (40 years ago), with Sir Anthony Mamo as the first President.

British forces retained a presence in Malta but, on 31st March 1979 (35 years ago), their military bases on the island were closed. After Independence Malta became part of the British Commonwealth. On 1st May 2004 (10 years ago), Malta became a member of the European Union.

These four historic landmarks in Malta’s contemporary history will be marked in a fitting way during the course of 2014.

THOROUGHLY BRITISH It is hardly surprising that business, laws and education have some British overtones, considering Malta has been part of the British Empire for over 160 years.

Before the arrival of the British, the official language since 1530 was Italian, used by the educated elite.

Gradually English took over, until in 1934, English and Maltese were declared the sole official languages.

Today, Malta still exudes a very British air. Traditional red-painted, letter and phone boxes exist around the islands, cars drive on the left, and beer is sold in pints rather than litres.

PLACES WORTH VISITING CONNECTED TO THE BRITISH PRESENCE IN MALTA War Museum – Fort St Elmo, Valletta Maritime Museum – Birgu (Vitoriosa) Heritage Malta – www.heritagemalta.org Saluting Battery – Upper Barracca Gardens, Valletta (Noon Day Gun) Lascaris War Rooms – Valletta Malta at War Museum – Birgu (Vittoriosa) The Armstrong 100 Ton Gun, Fort Rinella - Kalkara Fondazzjoni Wirt Artna – www.wirtartna.org

CONTACT DETAILS WEBSITE www.visitmalta.com EMAIL office.uk@visitmalta.com TELEPHONE 020 8877 6990

EXPLORE BRITAIN’S HERITAGE GEMS From a world-famous Roman frontier in Northumberland to a “magnificent” royal bathing machine on the Isle of Wight, Julian Humphrys introduces eight must-visit destinations in the UK

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Walk the wall

Hadrian’s Wall Follow in the footsteps of our Roman ancestors on the Hadrian’s Wall Path, an 84-mile (135km) coast to coast National Trail, from Wallsend, Newcastle upon Tyne in the east to Bowness-on-Solway on the west coast. The route follows the line of Hadrian’s Wall, a World Heritage Site, and passes

through some of the most beautiful and rugged parts of England. There are plenty of shorter circular routes for those who may find 84 miles a bit daunting, and a wide variety of Roman sites to visit on the way.

Don’t miss the regular excavations at Vindolanda and the amazing views (and impressive latrines) at Housesteads.

Find out more at hadrianswallheritage.co.uk

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Lock up the Tower

Central London Every evening at precisely seven minutes to ten the Tower of London is formally locked up in a ceremony that has taken place in some form or other every night without fail for at least 700 years.

The Ceremony of the Keys, as it’s known, involves Yeoman Warders and members of the Tower of London Guard – and a limited number of members of the public are permitted to attend this ancient ceremony.

Tickets are free but because of the popularity of the ceremony you need to apply in writing for them well in advance.

For details on how to do this visit hrp.org.uk/Tower OfLondon/WhatsOn/ theceremonyofthekeys

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Take a masterclass in medieval military architecture

A World Heritage Site, Hadrian’s Wall winds its way through some of England’s most beautiful countryside

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Built for Edward I by Master James of St George, Conwy Castle is one of the finest surviving medieval fortifications in Britain. Its impressive defences include two barbicans and eight towers. The views from the battlements are breathtaking, though you’ll need a good head for heights. But that’s not all, for the town of Conwy still retains its own circuit of medieval walls, over three-quarters of a mile long with 21 towers. You can walk round much of this; while doing so you’ll see how each tower is open-backed and originally had a removable wooden bridge so it could be isolated if captured by an attacker.

For further information visit cadw.wales.gov.uk/daysout/ conwycastle

BBC History Magazine Top 10 Travel Experiences

ALAMY/HISTORIC ROYAL PALACES

Conwy (Clwyd)

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Join choral evensong in King’s College Chapel

Cambridge

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Go underground at the National Coal Mining Museum for England

NATIONAL COAL MINING MUSEUM/KING’S COLLEGE CAMBRIDGE/ALAMY/ENGLISH HERITAGE

Wakefield (West Yorkshire) Based at the site of Caphouse Colliery in Overton near Wakefield, the National Coal Mining Museum for England takes an in-depth look at an industry that, at its height, was the biggest in the UK. In the 1920s it employed nearly 1.25 million people.

Interactive galleries show how miners lived, worked and relaxed, from the Victorian age through to modern times, and you can learn about the role played by pit ponies in coal mining. However the highlight of any visit has to be the opportunity to don a hard-hat and lamp and descend 140 metres on an underground tour led by a former miner.

Visit ncm.org. uk for further information

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Stay in a pineapple

The Pineapple (Stirlingshire) We have John Murray, 4th Earl of Dunmore to thank for one of Britain’s most eccentric buildings. In 1776 on his return to Scotland after a spell as governor of Virginia he finished off his walled garden with an extraordinary summer house in the shape of a 11-metre-high stone pineapple (pictured below)!

What makes this prickly pavilion additionally special is the fact that you can actually stay in it. That’s because it’s one of about 200 unusual historic buildings carefully restored and sympathetically furnished by the Landmark Trust for surprisingly affordable self-catering accommodation.

For details on how to book, visit landmarktrust.org.uk

Conwy is one of the finest surviving medieval castles in Britain

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Take to the waters where Queen Victoria once swam Osborne House (Isle of Wight) Queen Victoria first bathed in the sea at Osborne in 1847 and the private beach where she did so is now open to house visitors.

A 20-minute stroll or brief minibus ride from the house, the beach is overlooked by the magnificent wheeled bathing machine used to preserve

Founded by Henry VI, finished

by Henry VII and furnished by Henry VIII, King’s College Chapel in Cambridge boasts the largest fan vault in the world, splendid late medieval stained glass, extravagant displays of Tudor heraldry, and an imposing rood screen bearing the initials of Henry VIII and the doomed Anne Boleyn.

Henry VI established a choir to sing daily services here and, except for a few gaps during the Reformation and Commonwealth, it has been doing this for 500 years. The public are welcome to attend choral evensong – a superb opportunity to hear this great choir in a wonderful setting.

Visit kings.cam.ac.uk/events/ chapel-services for times of services

EIGHT HERITAGE EXPERIENCES IN THE UK

A choir has sung daily services at King’s College Chapel since the 15th century

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Enjoy a pint on Devon’s shipwreck coast

Hartland Quay (Devon)

Victoria’s modesty. You can sit in the tiled alcove (pictured above) where Victoria herself often sat reading or admiring the views across the Solent. If you feel like braving the water, feel free!

There are changing rooms in the charming beach cafe, which English Heritage have converted from a pavilion built for convalescing officers in the 1940s.

For further information visit english-heritage.org.uk

Perched above a wild sea at the foot of spectacular coastal cliffs, the Hartland Quay Hotel is one of England’s more isolated watering holes. It forms part of a little street that is all that remains of what was once a bustling port.

This was also one of Britain’s most dangerous stretches of coastline and countless ships came to grief on its unforgiving rocks. The aptly named Wreckers’ Retreat Bar and a small museum opposite house mementoes of many of these shipwrecks, while the anchor of the SS Hoche, wrecked in 1882, is still on Blegberry Beach, a little to the north.

For further information visit hartlandquayhotel.co.uk

A view of Hartland Quay, home of one of England’s most isolated watering holes

BBC History Magazine Top 10 Travel Experiences

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Russia Specialists Since 1980

5 days from

£825 Highlights of St Petersburg Tour Discover the classical grandeur of one of the world’s most captivating cities on Regent Holidays’ 5-day escorted tour. Explore Peter the Great’s Peter and Paul Fortress, discover the treasures of the world-renowned Hermitage Museum in its 250th anniversary year and enjoy excursions to the opulent estates of Russian royalty away from the hustle and bustle of the city.

MOSCOW & ST PETERSBURG CITY BREAKS | GROUP TOURS | TAILOR-MADE HOLIDAYS | RIVER CRUISES | TRANS-SIBERIAN To speak to a Regent Holidays Russia Specialist call

020 7666 1244 www.regentholidays.co.uk

“This is William, my great great uncle.

I never knew him, but it meant the world to me to visit Tyne Cot and pay my respects”

‘Visit, Understand, Never Forget’ are our watchwords for why we should all go on a battlefield tour at least once.

There’s no better time to do that than in 2014 as we commemorate 100 years since the outbreak of World War 1 and 70 years since D-Day, Arnhem and the Battle of the Bulge. As the UK’s leading battlefield tour operator, Leger Holidays would be privileged to help you mark the occasion and ensure the legacy of those we lost is never forgotten.

No one knows the battlefields better For more than 15 years our Battlefield Tours have been acclaimed for the expertise of our specialist guides who share their knowledge of military history; bring the human tragedy of war to life; and go the extra mile to help you locate those you may want to remember.

0844 692 3259 or see www.battlefieldvisits.co.uk For more details, a brochure or to book call

Terms and conditions apply, see our website for details. *Price is based on the 4 day tour and includes the early booking special offer

All Quiet on the Western Front * 4 or 5 days from £259

Join this fascinating tour and discover the stories of tragedy and bravery from the Somme and Flanders.

Departures throughout 2014

We take care of everything

Flanders Fields • Tyne Cot Cemetery • Irish Peace Tower • Ploegsteert Memorial • ‘Last Post Ceremony’

The Somme • Historial Museum at Péronne • La Boisselle • Thiepval Memorial • Ulster Tower

Tunnels & Trenches • Arras • Wellington Quarries • Arras Memorial • Vimy Ridge

Knowledgeable, Specialist Battlefield Guide 3 or 4 nights’ accommodation with breakfast Travel by executive coach or upgrade to Silver Service luxury coach for rear lounge, extra legroom and much more More than 510 regional coach joining points

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SAVE £10 on Jun to Oct 2014 departures when you book by 28 Feb 2014.

SAVE £20 on 2015 departures when you book by 30 Apr 2014.

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Choose from more than 48 escorted battlefield tours... send for your FREE brochure today.

015308

VISIT. UNDERSTAND. NEVER FORGET.

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ri Lanka’s iconic hill country can be found for real in Kandy, a colourful and characterful city sitting amid lush greenery. Kandy is best known as the home of Sri Lanka’s most famous Buddhist treasure, the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic, but a visit here offers far more.

Many people find the cooler climate a welcome respite from the searing heat of Colombo and other coastal areas, and anyone on the trail of either the island’s historic tea scene or seeking wildlife sanctuaries will find Kandy the perfect pit-stop.

As with so many former colonial centres, Kandy has a poignant British garrison cemetery.

If possible, come around the time of the Kandy Esala Perahera, an amazing series of processions in the city to honour the sacred tooth.

Featuring trademark large

numbers of elephants, this event is arguably Sri Lanka’s best-known festival. It takes place during the month of Esala, which falls in July and/or August each year – in 2014 it’s from 10–20 August. The last four nights are the most notable, with the biggest and best processions taking place.

This is a popular time to be in town, and you should book accommodation and transport ahead and, if possible, arrange seats by the procession. Do come though: it is the peak time to be in Kandy, when the city is at its best and most lively.

As well as the elephants, Kandyan dancers and drummers who lead the procession in their thousands are the stars of the Perahera. If you’re in town at another time of year seek out one of the nightly performances given at a few venues across Kandy.

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An elephant and Kandyan dancers light up the Kandy Esala Perahera, arguably Sri Lanka’s best-known festival IF YOU LIKE THIS... ! To find a colourful, off-beat festival aim for Thailand when Songkran is held. This celebration of new year is characterised by mass water fights.

It happens in April and you should be prepared to get soaked! ! Steamy south Asia can also be discovered among the back-

waters and houseboats of Kerala, India.

TOP 10 TRAVEL EXPERIENCES

Attend the colourful Kandy Perahera in Kandy, Sri Lanka

BEST TIME TO GO Come for the final few days of the Perahera – but book ahead.

TOUR OPERATORS Travel Sri Lanka can arrange tailor-made packages across the island. travel srilanka.co.uk

Discover Oman’s historic cities

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n a part of the world that’s big on modern opulence, Oman bucks the trend. Its history dates back millennia, from the gathering of early copper trading wealth to a 19th-century Indian Ocean empire that included Zanzibar and Mombasa. After a period of isolation Oman has been quietly modernising, and visitors travelling to the country will find a distinct and different slice of Arabia.

Muscat, the capital, is the logical starting point, and though its suburbs sprawl along the coast, the main sights are in Mutrah: the eponymous souq and fort and the Bait al-Baranda museums. Similarly unmissable are Old Muscat and the Al-Jalali and Al-Mirani forts.

Oman has a wealth of other sights, including the historic cities of Nizwa and Salalah and the forts at Jabrin and Bahla.

So great is the concentration of historic defences that you may even find fort fatigue setting in.

At this point it’s time to head to the pools and plantations of Wadi Shab or Wadi Bani Khalid – green oases at odds with visions of the Arabian Desert.

It seems just a matter of time before a greater number of visitors explore Oman’s delights.

By going now, you’ll keep ahead of the crowds.

CORBIS/REX FEATURES

5 A view of Old Muscat, with the “unmissable” Al-Mirani fort in the background BBC History Magazine Top 10 Travel Experiences

IF YOU LIKE THIS... ! You can stay on the trail of Omani history by exploring the Sultan’s Palace in Stone Town, Zanzibar, Tanzania. ! Another underappreciated Middle Eastern destination with a lot to offer is Jordan, especially once you venture beyond Petra.

BEST TIME TO GO Oman is best visited in October and November or March, April and May. Winter travel is also possible but high summer is best avoided.

TOUR OPERATORS Steppes Travel is a specialist in Oman with tours covering classic sights and more. steppestravel.co.uk

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TOP 10 TRAVEL EXPERIENCES

Take a historical road trip to Civil War sights in the USA

A

merica was made for the road trip, and there is no shortage of historical delights, from settler sights in Massachusetts to the fascinating remnants of Gold Rush California.

Of all the history to be explored nothing explains, puzzles and endures like the American Civil War. Today, Civil War battlefields, cemeteries and memorials in states including Virginia, Maryland and Tennessee are given added poignancy due to their locations in some of America’s loveliest scenery. Amid green rolling countryside thousands of young Americans on each side lost their lives.

Washington DC seems a good place to start, with a journey north to Gettysburg, scene of the turning point of the war. It is logically combined with Antietam National Battlefield, which on 17 September 1862

became the scene of the bloodiest single day in US history.

South-west of the capital, Manassas offers a precious, preserved view of a rural battlefield. Meanwhile, Fredericksburg is a classic 18th-century town and Lexington’s Appomattox Court House (now designated a National Park) was where the Confederacy finally surrendered.

The insights of local guides and national park rangers can be fascinating. You’ll find Civil War history in many places across the south, with hundreds of historic sites recorded and preserved by the Civil War Trust (civilwar.org/civil-war-discovery-trail).

The trust is currently commemorating the 150th anniversary of the war in a four-yearlong programme of events. As this is America, you’ll need a car and be prepared to travel reasonably long distances.

IF YOU LIKE THIS... ! A few days in Savannah, Georgia will show you a more modern take on the classic American south. ! While America was shaking, Italy was unifying.

Explore this colourful, complex story in, among other locations, Palermo in Sicily.

BEST TIME TO GO Come later in the year for a blast of fall foliage – October and November are ideal.

TOUR OPERATORS Battlefield Breaks (battlefield-breaks. com) offers a tour of several key Civil War sights. Try also US-based Tauck (tauck.com).

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CORBIS

The Ohio Monument at Gettysburg National Military Park, scene of a battle that proved the turning point of the American Civil War

BBC History Magazine Top 10 Travel Experiences

6 Of all the history to be explored in the United States, nothing explains, puzzles and endures like the American Civil War

BBC History Magazine Top 10 Travel Experiences

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Visit the Isle of Historical Treasures A short journey across the Solent to the Isle of Wight will take you back in time… to the mosaic masterpieces of the Romans and a Monarch who

retreated to the seaside. Our year-round Wight World experiences have return car ferry travel for 4 people plus entry to the attraction included!

Get away for the day to Queen Victoria’s summer palace at Osborne, Brading Roman Villa, Carisbrooke Castle or Dimbola Museum & Galleries and discover your Smiles of Wight with Wightlink.

BOOK EARLY TO GUARANTEE YOUR SPACE

wightlink.co.uk/wightworld

4 Carr+ action

t Inc. atntry e from

*

£44

†

Call 0871 376 1000

Keep up to date with our latest news †Calls cost 7p per minute, plus network extras. *Terms and Conditions apply. Full details can be found online or by calling us. Fares are subject to a variable and limited allocation and must be booked at least 1 hour prior to sailing. Travel must be completed by 01.30 the following day. Valid from Portsmouth Gunwharf or Lymington. Please check with individual attractions prior to travel as opening times, whilst correct at time of going to print, may be subject to change and supplements may apply for special events. E&OE

7

Simply walking on one of the D-Day beaches provides a poignant start to exploring the history of the region

CORBIS

Pointe du Hoc, which sits between Omaha and Utah beaches. A daring US Rangers raid captured German fortifications here on D-Day

BBC History Magazine Top 10 Travel Experiences

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s historical jaunts go, there’s little to beat Normandy, which has, down the centuries, been one of Europe’s most fought-over and coveted possessions.

Different eras raise their heads dependent on location: Roman remains at Lillebonne; the Norman invasion of England leaving behind Bayeux’s famous tapestry; Rouen’s cathedral, famously painted by Claude Monet; and the city’s sights relating to Joan of Arc. Honfleur’s beautiful port also makes for a fine overnight stop.

A main attraction for those interested in the Second World War is the series of beaches where the Allies landed on 6 June 1944. The D-Day beaches (code named Utah, Omaha, Gold, Juno and Sword) stretch along the coast between Cherbourg and Honfleur, and simply walking on any one of them provides a poignant start to exploring the wartime history of the region.

The wide-open sands, backing on to quiet lanes and villages, seem a world away from the pitched battles, bitter fighting and terrible casualties of that day, which are evidenced by the war cemeteries and frequent memorials found IF YOU LIKE THIS... in the area. Numerous ! Belgium and museums help explain the northern France story, including Bayeux’s are also marking a significant anniverBattle of Normandy sary of conflict in Memorial Museum and 2014 – the centenary many smaller attractions of the outbreak of devoted to subjects the First World War. as broad as batteries, ! Normandy’s mulberry harbours and laid-back rural the daily life of the air and maritime occupied French. history have echoes Marking the 70th in Cantabria, northern Spain. anniversary of the landings, 2014 is sure BEST TIME TO GO to be a busy year. Most Early June is visitors come as part understandably of an organised tour, or busy, as is August they drive, and the sites when Normandy can be visited year-round. throngs with visitors Public transport is from around the possible to most beaches world. Avoid these times for quieter but can be infrequent, so visits to the check in advance and be beaches. mindful of times.

TOP 10 TRAVEL EXPERIENCES

Tour Normandy’s D-Day beaches

TOUR OPERATORS Leger Holidays offer four and seven-day escorted coach tours of the D-Day sites. leger.co.uk

19

Explore the secrets of Renaissance Florence

F

lorence, the medieval heart of beautiful Tuscany, needs little by way of introduction. Its pell-mell of streets, lined with low-rise russet-roofed buildings, radiates out from the spectacular duomo, or cathedral, one of the great buildings in the world.

To walk the lanes of Florence from Santa Maria Novella train station, a sensational modernist edifice, to the banks of the river Arno, preferably in the hours around dawn, is to take a stroll to another era.

The ambience of the city alone would be enough to make Florence a must-visit destination, but the city keeps some of its finest secrets behind lock and key, only accessible to those in the know.

Take a look at the Ponte Vecchio, the city’s iconic, shop-lined covered bridge and you may notice that there is an

8 additional level to the buildings.

This, and the sealed passageways linking the bridge to Palazzo Vecchio on the north side of the Arno and the Palazzo Pitti on the south, form the Corridoio Vasariano (Vasari Corridor). This kilometre-long walkway, lined with priceless Medici portraits by Rembrandt, Rubens and others, was built for Cosimo I in 1564 to allow private and safe passage between the two palaces.

It also kept the city’s elite away from the riff-raff below.

You can access the Vasari Corridor by tour only, either by sporadic small-group tours laid

on by the Polo Museale Fiorentino (uffizi.firenze.it/en/ musei/tutti.php) or a more expensive English-language tour. Either is well worth the effort.

The corridor also passes through the church of Santa Felicita, so if you can’t get to see the corridor from inside you can pop in here and get a flavour of the exclusivity it bestowed on those using it.

That, and the different take on the city the corridor offers, is something best contemplated over a refreshing gelato or two – another thing Florence does rather well.

IF YOU LIKE THIS... ! For another slice of Italy’s hidden history, take the spooky scavi (excavations) walking tour of the necropolis underneath the Vatican in Rome and get an exclusive peek at St Peter’s tomb.

Book well in advance at vatican. va/roman_curia/ institutions_connected/uffscavi ! If Florence is proving too crowded you can aim for Fiesole, a slice of Tuscan hilltop perfection that’s a half-hour bus ride away.

BEST TIME TO GO Florence is at its best in early summer and autumn.

TOUR OPERATORS Florence Town (florencetown.com) organises Englishlanguage tours of the Vasari Corridor for a pricy but worth-it €125 (£106).

Walk Papua New Guinea’s iconic Kokoda Track

9 The Kokoda Track is fast becoming one of the world’s great historical pilgrimages

W

hy trek 60 miles through the sweltering New Guinea rainforest, up and across the mighty Owen Stanley Range of mountains? Certainly not for a relaxing, gentle stroll: the Kokoda Track is a brutal way to spend a week and a half, slipping and sweating along

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an unrelentingly steep trail in sweat-soaked humidity. And yet this walk is fast becoming one of the world’s great historical pilgrimages.

Thousands of Australians, and a growing number of other nationals, attempt the Kokoda Track every year. They come to explore the history of one of the Second World War’s toughest battles, to better understand the brutal conditions endured

by Japanese and Australian soldiers as they fought over this long, thin finger of territory that held the key to control of New Guinea.

The skirmishes have come to be seen as pivotal in the development of Australia as a nation, as the Australian troops’ victory here possibly prevented an invasion of Queensland, and

changed the shape of the war in the Pacific.

Tackling the track is tricky without a guide who knows the route well and can advise on supplies and sustenance along the way. They can also illuminate the trek with stories of the war and introduce trekkers to local peoples living in villages passed through along the way.

Despite the growing popularity of Kokoda, Papua New Guinea is still one of the world’s most remote destinations. Safety is an issue in a small number of cases in larger towns – and especially Port Moresby – but as in so many places, the reality of visiting does not match the reputation.

That said, it’s a good idea not to flaunt valuables, here as anywhere.

IF YOU LIKE THIS... ! For another curious slice of history head to the Venice of the Pacific, Nan Madol in Pohnpei, Micronesia.

BEST TIME TO GO British summer is the time when you’ll find the trail driest and at least a little cooler.

TOUR OPERATORS Peregrine Adventures offer Kokoda Track treks, the experience of which requires in their words “flexibility, patience and good humour”. peregrineadventures.com

BBC History Magazine Top 10 Travel Experiences

CORBIS/GETTY IMAGES

TOP 10 TRAVEL EXPERIENCES

Part of the Vasari Corridor, which is lined with priceless portraits of the Medici

Modern day Normandy Landings

Re-live history

time of year

Want to find out more about the Normandy landings, a pivotal time in World War II? Visit early in 2014, avoid the crowds and make the most of the region’s museums and attractions.

Visit brittanyferries.com/2014dday or call 0871 244 0170 Calls cost 10p per minute plus network extras.

10

The vast cruciform church of Biete Giyorgis has been called, with some justification, the eighth wonder of the world Biete Giyorgis, one of a complex of incredible rock-hewn churches that make the Ethiopian town of Lalibela an unforgettable place to visit

BBC History Magazine Top 10 Travel Experiences

REX FEATURES

TOP 10 TRAVEL EXPERIENCES 22

E

Follow the pilgrims to the amazing rock churches of Lalibela, Ethiopia

thiopia is Africa’s secret historical gem. Treasures are found across the country, from Gondar’s Arthurian castles to Axum in the far north, rumoured (and much-believed in, if you’re Ethiopian) resting place of the Lost Ark of the Covenant.

In the east is the ancient walled Islamic city of Harer, where tiny mosques are found in trees and poet Arthur Rimbaud’s house is now a small and fascinating museum. Nowhere, though, is quite like Lalibela.

Nestled high in the country’s central mountains, this small town appears on first sight to be an unremarkable market centre, coming to life on market days when farmers arrive from miles around to sell their produce.

What brings a steady flow of visitors here, however, is the miraculous, mysterious complex of rock-hewn churches found in several groups around the town.

As the fame of Lalibela has grown, so has awareness of the churches, and many people are familiar with Biete Giyorgis, the vast cruciform church that has been called, with some justification, the eighth wonder of the world.

The best and busiest time to be here is around IF YOU LIKE THIS...

Timkat, the noisy ! If you’re keen on Ethiopian Orthodox Africa’s historical festival of the epiphany. sights, aim for Such is the sacred Sudan’s magical pyramids at Meroe. nature of these church! For another es, though, that even unexpected twist dawn services are on Christianity, try common in Lalibela and the Coptic side of should not be missed.

Cairo, Egypt.

The connection with an ancient mysticism, BEST TIME TO GO and the feast for the Timkat, the Ethiopian Orthodox senses, is intense for all festival of the who witness a service at Epiphany, takes one of the churches. place on 20 January Just walking around each year. This cointhem is atmospheric cides with the dry enough, with narrow season, which is a paths deep in the rock good time to get connecting the churches around, although and exposing pilgrims offering less in the way of greenery. squirrelled in niches praying quietly to TOUR OPERATORS themselves.

Rainbow Tours Visit, and you’ll almost are specialists in certainly emerge with a African destinations different perspective on and offer tailorChristian history, Africa made and small and the misunderstood group tours. country of Ethiopia itself. rainbowtours.co.uk

1944 - 2014

Copyright Alex Green 2014

Normandy CELEBRATEs liberty

www.normandy-dday.com

INCLUDED IN YOUR TOUR Fully escorted tour with local English speaking guides throughout Scheduled flights from London Heathrow direct to Sri Lanka. Other regional flights are available at a supplement Accommodation in 4⇥ hotels and all meals as specified Air-conditioned/heated transportation, (excluding the jeep safari) Entry fees to all sights All airport taxes and security charges

JEWELS OF SRI LANKA TOUR Dambulla, Kandy, Yala National Park & Mount Lavinia

9 DAYS FROM

£1,095

Your included meal guide: B = Breakfast, L = Lunch, D = Dinner DAY 1: UK to Colombo Depart London on your scheduled flight to Sri Lanka, DAY 2: Dambulla D On arrival, transfer to your hotel where you will have the rest of the day to relax and explore.

DAY 3: Dambulla B/L/D Today you will explore the stunning Sigiriya Rock Fortress, a World Heritage Site dating back to the 5th century AD. Also known as the ‘Lion Rock’, it is a citadel of unusual beauty rising 200 metres from the jungle. Following lunch, continue on to the ancient city of Polonnaruwa, where you can admire the ruins of the Royal Palace and wander around the Gal Vihare, famous for its splendid carved Buddha statues.

DAY 4: Dambulla & Kandy B/L/D Visit the Dambulla Rock Temple, where the impressive caves contain over 2,000 square metres of painted walls and ceilings, which were once gilded by the ancient King to mark his place of worship. You will then travel to Kandy, visiting a spice garden en-route. Visit the famous Temple of Tooth Relic in the afternoon and, after dinner, relax whilst watching an eclectic cultural show.

DAY 5: Kandy B/L/D Travel to the beautiful botanical gardens in Peradeniya, boasting more than 4,000 species of trees, plants and creepers and a stunning Orchid House. Next, continue to Giragama to visit a tea factory and plantation before a city tour of Kandy, including a bazaar and an arts centre.

DAY 6: Kandy & Yala B/L/D Today’s highlight is a trip to the Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage, established in 1975 to care for wounded and abandoned elephants. Witness these magnificent creatures in close quarters and see young elephants being fed, bathed and trained.

After lunch, journey through Sri Lanka’s striking scenery to your hotel near to Yala, a region renowned for its wildlife and cultural ruins.

DAY 7: Yala B/L/D Enjoy the morning at leisure before your exciting jeep safari around the magnificent Yala National Game Park, the largest in Sri Lanka. The park is home to elephants, wild boars, buffaloes, bears, deer and crocodiles as well as a number of migratory and indigenous birds. You may even spot a leopard!

DAY 8: Yala & Mount Lavinia B/L/D Travel to Galle, once the chief port of Ceylon and the centre of the Dutch regime in the 17th century. A city tour lets you discover the majestic Galle Fort and the surrounding historic buildings which reflect the Dutch heritage which once reined the country. Travel north for your final night at the famous Mount Lavinia Hotel.

Dambulla

2

Our 9 day, 7 night tour allows you to experience the beautiful interior of Sri Lanka, exploring the delights of Dambulla and Sigiriya Rock and the colonial cities of Kandy and Galle too. Visit ancient temples of past civilisations, wonder at the beautiful botanical gardens in Peradeniya, meet the elephants at the Pinnawala Orphanage and take a safari through Yala National Park.

Colombo airport • Pinnawala •

2

Kandy

Colombo Mount •1 Lavinia

Yala

2

•Galle

Coach

2014 DEPARTURES Feb

27th

£1395

Mar

19

£1395

Apr

2nd

£1395

Oct

th

15

£1395

May

14

th

Sep

£1395

3rd 24

th

£1395

£1195

Nov

12th

£1395

Jun

4

th

£1095

Dec

3

£1395

Jul

2nd

£1295

th

rd

TOUR HIGHLIGHTS Visit the Sigiriya Rock Fortress Meet the elephants at the Pinnawala Orphanage Explore the Dambulla Rock Temple

DAY 9: Colombo to the UK B Transfer to the airport for your flight to the UK.

Tour the Temple of Tooth Relic City Tour of Kandy and Galle

EXTEND YOUR STAY

Enjoy a Cultural Show

• 4 night Sri Lanka Beach Stay from £199 • 4 night 4⇥ Magical Maldives add-on from £439

Botanical Gardens in Peradeniya

• 4 night 4⇥ Kerala Beach Stay from £295 • Highlights of Kerala 3 night Mini Tour from £299

Experience a Jeep Safari

These add-ons can only be taken at the end of the main Jewels of Sri Lanka Tour.

Polonnaruwara and Yala National Park Visit a Tea Factory and a Tea Plantation

To book call 0843 224 0504 Quote offer code MSRT80 Open 7 days a week 9.00am-9.00pm Or visit www.mercurydirect.com/msrt80

ABTA No: V0211

Prices will vary dependant on departure date and airport choice. A visa and insurance must be obtained before travelling to Sri Lanka, we are happy to arrange these for you. Availability may be limited. All offers are subject to availability & can be withdrawn without notice. Terms & conditions apply. Prices are per person based on 2 adults sharing.