Thanglasgo Valley Mountaineering Guide BSES Ladakh 2008 Expedition
All images and text within this guide is copyright of BSES Expeditions and its members. BSES Expeditions expects that everyone using this guide recognises that climbing and mountaineering are activities with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions and involvement Whilst this guide has been prepared with the utmost care, BSES takes no responsibility for errors or ommisions contained within this guide, it is for users to satisfy themselves of the risks and facts. Published November 2008. Particular thanks to Yuan, Niall, Rachel, Ryan and Mark Smith’s assistance with preparing this guide.
The British Schools Exploring Society is the country’s leading youth development charity undertaking scientific research expeditions, with a provenance second to none. Its approach to youth development is unique and successful; using a mixture of science and adventure, it has been at the forefront of youth development through exploring since its inception. It uses the underlying principal of ‘adventure with purpose’ to develop the next generation of leaders and scientists.
BSES has been running extreme scientific research expeditions to remote wilderness areas around the world since 1932. Early expeditions collected valuable fieldwork data and brought back specimens for the Natural History Museum and the British Museum. These days, from glaciology and meteorology, to ornithology and physiology, it collaborates with a range of scientific research institutions from universities and world-respected scientists; to incountry NGOs and conservation organisations.
The Team
The Leaders
Will Ames / Thomas Chapman / Olivia Hampshire Monk / Josh Johnson / Will Anderson / Francis Charlesworth / Amy Forrest / Thomas Harriet / James Beadle / Harry Eaton / Debbie Morgan / Sarah Keane / Will Blackshaw / Caspian James / Patrick O’Callaghan / Jaegar Morrice / Katherine Evans / James Couzens / James Richardson / Rebecca Gledhill / Henry Renninson / James Wood / Rachel Humphries / Luke Havers / Sarah Holmes / Harry Andrews / Graham McGrath / Joe Herbert / James Outred / Luke Daly / Amy Robson / Joanna Mathews / William Sheppard / Gemma Ridley / Henry Taylor / Nicolas Michel / Yuan Yuang / Niall McLaughlin
Chris Horobin / Jane Horobin / Simon Fowler / Andy Ruck / Hannah Brett / Liz Yeates / Rachel Wheeler / Sarah Lewis / Kath Baldock / Andy Cowan / Sarah Major / Ryan Hogan / Matt Bridgestock
Introduction
climbers with the appropriate permissions.
Maps and Guides
The Nubra Valley area has only opened up as lately as 1994 and is generally unknown and relatively unvisited by expedition parties. This is due to the developing relationships between China and the rest of the world, the Nubra valley is fairly close to the Indian/China and India/Pakistan border. In order to access the area, the assistance of a reputable agency based in Leh is required, BSES Expeditions were provided with an excellent and professional service in this respect from RIMO Expeditions.
A few expedition companies are starting to visit the Nubra Valley area but are mainly operating on the North South Traverse of the Thanglasgo valley (a six day trek) with two days to access the area and three days to acclimatise in Leh.
Map
The area is now well mapped to 1:150000 and the maps are GPS compatible generally, the detail on the complicated terrain however is not great and some peaks are not even indicated. There are many peaks over 5000m and a few over 6000m that are thought to be unclimbed, there is the real possibility of being the ďŹ rst party to climb some of the 6000m peaks in the side valleys of this area.
Trekking in Ladakh by Charlie Loram, Trailblazer Publication
The entrance to the Thanglasgo Valley trek is at the start of the restricted zone and the area to the west of the Nubra Valley is currently inaccessible to trekking companies unless accompanied by a requisite number of Indian
Ladakh Zanskar North, 1:150,000, GPS compatible, published by Editions Olizane. Available from Stanfords Bookshop in London. Guides Lonely Planet Guide to India
Trekking and Climbing in the Indian Himalaya by Harish Kapadia, Trekking & Climbing Guides Trekking Companies Rimo Expeditions Motup and Yangdu, Hotel Kanglhachen Complex, Leh, Ladakh – 194 101, J&K India www.rimoexpeditions.com
Leh (3532m)
hassled at all.
Leh is a fascinating divergence of cultures and experiences. Buddist monks wander the streets whilst the muezzins chant from the mosques, there is a good main bazaar area and restaurants to suit all tastes and price brackets.
A jeep is require for the 5 hour drive from Leh over the Kardung La Pass (5600m) to Hundar, the road head for trekking in Thanglasgo Vally area.
A two course meal with coffee and a beer cost approx $7. There are three classes of Hotel, cheap budget hostels, medium priced hotels (approx $10 a night p/person) and more expensive ones. Traffic is not too aggressive in the streets although care has to be taken due to cars swerving to avoid cows and donkeys etc. The people are genuine and on the whole gentle, I never felt threatened by any peddlers or beggars and can say I was never
Generally, three days should be spent at this altitude for good acclimatisation for the Thanglasgo Valley area.
Hundar (3150m) Descending from the Kardung La Pass, Hundar is found at the base of the Shyok River valley and is the last stop for tourists, bordering the military controlled zone heading towards the Siachen Glacier. It is famed for its high altitude sand dunes and Mongolian Bactrian camels, and is surrounded by lush fields irrigated by channels from the
Shyok river. The Thanglasgo valley leads south, beginning as a steep gorge with the Sniamo river flowing alongside the narrow path. At the opening of the valley, magnificient cliffs overshadow Hundar with several stupas and reams of prayer flags adorning them. A walk up to the stupas offers magnificient views into both the Thanglasgo and Shyok valleys. Camping in Hundar allows groups to make an early start trekking into the Thanglasgo valley, making the most of cooler morning temperatures. There is a campsite and a number of guesthouses. The Siachan Military Hospital in Hundar is the closest medical facility for trips into the Thanglasgo valley.
RIMO Expeditions
Pangong Hotel
Mountain History
Burgocha - 5,950m - No recorded ascents.
Few of the peaks in the area have any deďŹ nitive information or have recorded climbs. Those that have are as follows:
Peak 2 - 5,710m - May be Yangchan Kangri Peak summited by Rimo and Jagged Globe in 2007.
Dawa Peak - 5,890m - First ascent in 199?
Peak 3 - 5,980m - Attempts recorded from the North in 1930’s but no recorded sucess or attempts in recent history
Samgyal - 5,810m - First ascent by XXX in 199? Samgyal South - 6,000m+ Rocky peak to south of Samgyal. No recorded ascents Geshi - 5,500m+ - Climbed within last 3 years by Rimo and Jagged Globe. Sahib Chera - 6,050m - Climbed in 2007 from Thanglasgo Valley by Rimo and Jagged Globe. Kangsalmathug - 5,770m Climbed by Jagged Globe and Rimo in August 2007, from the south.
Thanglasgo Valley Day 1 - Hundar to Scarchen Approximately 4 hours walk along a track and well defined path. Ascent is approx 400m. Camp in trees near houses and river. Scarchen Altitude is 3576m. Day 2 - Scarchen to Wachan Approximately 3 hours walk along a good path above river. Ascent is approx 400m. there are 2 excellent campsites, one North of the river crossing and one on the path to the south of the bridge. Watchen os at 4,000m. Snow Leopard Camp is accessed from Watchen. Day 3 - Wachan to Brok Goma Approx 4 hours wall through the village of Brok Goma to a campsite at the confluence of 2 rivers, excellent flat campsites are available. Ascent is approx 300m
and the campsite is at about 4,300m. Lynx camp is accessed from this campsite by crossing the main river (bridge available here). Day 4 - Brok Goma to Pullu Approximately 5 hours walking along the base of the valley, some larger river cossings may be required. Campsite is located on the flat area between the river and a number of small houses. Pullu campsite is at 4,500m and ascent for the day is about 200m. Day 5 - Pullu to Lasirmou La Base Another longer day of 5 hours, on a good path, following the main river. Campsite is situated at a braiding of the river. and has spectacular views up and down the valley. Lasirmou La Base camp is at about 5,000m Day 6 - Lasirmou La From camp it is about 1 hours
walk up to the base of the Lasirmou La Glacier. From there the Glacier is traversed to the pass (5,476m), with superb views of the surrounding mountains. From the Pass there are several large, flat campsites about 3 hours down the well defined path. In addition it is possible to reach Phyiang (3,532m) in a further 1 -2 hours. It is also possible to walk back into central Leh from this valley, by taking the path to the East and crossing a small col, this takes around 4 to 5 hours.
Brok Goma
Palzampiu Valley This valley is reached in 3-4 hours from Wachan on a good path through a deep gorge. The base of the valley is around 4,400m and has a number of good places for a base camp.
Palzampiu Valley Samgyal Samgyal appears as a snowy pyramid next to a huge wall of rock when viewed from the Palzampiu valley; the ridge that leads all the way up to the peak starts just behind the base camp for this valley, directly South. Samgyal can be approached from either a base camp in the valley or an advance camp for Dawa peak. From either traverse to the ridge line and follow the ridge until it was possible to traverse across rock to the West to reach the glacier at about 5400M. The left edge of the glacier is then followed until the East ridge is reached, and then this can be followed to the summit. The left hand skyline in the photo below shows the East ridge, with the initial glacier approach
hidden behind the rock. This route is objectively safe, with no significant crevasses, and no danger of rock fall. The final section of the glacier coming up to the ridge and a few points of the ridge are about 40 degrees at most, but only for a short distance. The rocky peak next to Samgyal is about 200M higher and significantly more technical; this peak is currently unclimbed.
Palzampiu Valley - Dawa This peak is approached via an advanced camp just below the terminal moraine of the glacier that leads down North from the peak. From Base camp this camp is 2-3 hours trek and is at 5,100m. The initial route was over the right-hand side of the terminal moraine to reach the glacier at its lowest point and then the glacier was followed up an initial incline
and then fairly flat for about 2 km to reach the final slopes. All of this terrain was un-crevassed; the only objective danger being the streams that flowed between the glacier and the moraine at the start of the route. The standard route takes the easiest line up to the right to reach the right-hand skyline ridge which was then followed to the summit. The initial ascent to the ridge is hidden behind the rocky ridge that is seen in the photo, which reaches the right hand skyline just out of view. An open crevasse must be crossed just before the ridge is reached. The steepest parts of the ridge were ice of about 45 degrees near the top of the climb, a significant challenge particularly considering the altitude. These can be adequately protected with ice screws in the solid glacial ice.
Below - Samgyal 5,810m The peak is the snowy point to the left. The route gains the ridge on the left and traverses this to the summit. The large rock peak on the right has no recorded ascents .
Above - Dawa Peak 5,890m Red line shows ‘normal’ ascent route followed, Blue line shows a slightly steeper variation avoiding an obvious cravasse.
Peak 3 This peak has no previously recorded ascents and is located to the North of the base camp. It was summited by BSES team in August 2008. The route starts early from base camp, crossing the river and traversing up through the moraine to the right hand glacier. The moraine provided a signiďŹ cant objective danger due to its instability and steepness. It took around 8 hours to gain the glacier and a further 2 hours to reach the summit. The glacier provided few technical challenges and the team followed the left hand edge of this to the summit.
Left - Peak 3 - 5,980m Red line shows the route taken. Base camp is adjacent to the river at the bottom of the image.
Sniamo Valley Trekking from the Thanglasgo Valley to a suitable base camp for this valley takes around 3hours, there are numberous large at campsites below an impressive triangular rock peak called Geshi. There is an intermittant path on the south side of the river, to this point. Ponies can reach this point. This area is around 4,750m in altitude.
The rivers in this valley are glacier fed and swell signiďŹ cantly in late afternoon. Care should be taken in crossing these particularly returing late in the day. Below the large trangular peak, there is a short granite slab with sound rock which gives some entrtaining single pitch climbing.
Step Test Arete (VDiff)
Basecamp in front of Geshi
Sniamo Valley Exploratory Trekking The Expedition explored the option of connecting the Sniamo and Palzampiu valleys via the Nia La pass, and complete a journey that had never been attempted before. After exploration it is considered that only option is a technical route via Dawa Peak
Side Valley 1
Snow Leopa Wachen Ca as the area around base camp,
spot. Climbing the moraines reveals a stunning glacier with a after traversing a blue lagoon small lake at its snout. The glacier the valley bottom opened out couldPotential be seen running up to a forrevealing a very braided stream Campsite Summit peak believed to be Dawa. To interspersedSL withBase grazingCamp yaks. Pot the right of the summit a steep The valley bottom then rose up ridge blocked our1st route. It was camp steeply withBC the -stream returning united after bridge of rockLyn considered that this might make to a single channel terminating in a good route up Dawa although it an amphitheatre, surrounded by was not attempted at this time. high, steepAdvanced sided rocky peaks. At Camp Dawa Base this point it was agreed that this Side Valley 2 route would be impassable. The terrain was much the same
An acclimatization walk up the western arm of the Sniamo valley reviled a possible route between rocky peaks. This route was taken with bivvi equipment and sufďŹ cient food for 3 days. No technical Ice or climbing gear was carried. After about 3 hours of trekking, there is a nice level area with a slow running stream, an ideal bivvy
Lynx Base Camp
Valley 1
Valley 2
Indus Mid-A
Sniamo Valley - Advance Sniamo Valley - Peaks Camp Advance camp can be reached by taking the South East valley from base camp. It is a rough trek across several unconsolidated boulder fields, 2 lakes (unmarked on map) should be skirted and it will take 6-8 hours fully loaded. Ponies can not reach advance camp. There are a number of suitable positions for Advance camp or intermediate camps, the higher up the valley the less walking is required on ascent mornings. There is a large flat area signaled by a tall stone cairn, a better camp is about 1 hour trek further on, crossing another large unstable boulder field.
There are a number of peaks accessible from this Advance Camp. We attempted 2 of these peaks, a third (marked on the map below at 5,850m) is considered to be an easier ascent and is also acessible from this Advance Camp. It is understood that this peak has been climbed a number of times.
Indus Advanced Base Camp
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View from Peak 2 looking towards advance base camp (in valley above lake), Sahib Chera (6,050m) and north to the Sasser Kangri Group
Left - Route up Kangsalmathug. 5,770m (PD+) First ascent by Jagged Globe in 2007 via route from south. Head east from advance camp and join the glacier snout at its northern edge, cross the glacier and take a diagonal line from the back of the Coire to about 80m below the summit, traverse right and then gain the summit up the steep slope. Right - Route up Sniamo Valley Peak 2 - 5,717m (F) Ascend from main valley through moraine to gain northern most snout of glacier. Ascend Snow and scree gully with care to right hand end of snow ridge, gain ridge via short steep step and then traverse easily to the summit.
Lasirmou La
boots were required for warmth more than anything.
The trek out from the valleys over the Lasirmou La provides the ďŹ nal mountaineering challenge, with the complete expedition having to climb to a 5500m pass, including the ponies carrying some of the equipment. The climb to the pass was a fairly easy angled glacier, covered with some fresh snow from the storms in the ďŹ nal couple of days, but this was crevassefree and possible without ice axes or crampons; mountaineering
From the top of the pass, a small peak to the East looks very inviting and provides an easy but worthwhile mountaineering objective of 5,600m. Descent from the pass is via a well marked path to the south (rather than south east marked on the map). There are a number of possibilities for camping further down the valley and the option to walk back to Leh directly.
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Camp, last night
Weather Weather in the summer season is becoming more unpredicatble, in 2008 we had clear skies and high tempratures mixed with rain and clouds for significant periods. Temperatures fell to around freezing at night at base camp level. The rain and cloud didn’t affect the actual mountaineering significantly, as the wind was generally light high up and there weren’t significant deposits of snow. During the trek out towards the Lasirmou La, there was some concern that the snow would make it impossible for the ponies to cross the pass due to the particularly stormy weather on the last couple of days but the fresh snow did not cause a problem in the end. The local guides did say that this
was the most rain they had ever seen in the region, but that the weather was getting worse each year.
Equipment The mountaineering equipment taken was to a large extent all used; a harness, helmet, crampons, and ice axe. No fixed ropes were used higher up the mountains but parties were roped together. Ice screws provided excellent protection on the steeper sections, but the ice was much to hard to use the snow stakes. The wetter than expected weather meant that full waterproofs were essential, and were used far more that expected. Down jackets were well used in evenings. Boots remained a significant debate, warmer temperatures that
expected did mean that plastic double mountaineering boots were not essential. The hard glacial ice would have meant that flexible crampons on lightweight boots would not have been less than ideal and potentially unsafe.
Hazards The main mountaineering hazards faced were: •
Altitude
•
Loose rock and scree
•
River crossings
•
Accessing glaciers
The high altitudes meant that the groups did move relatively slowly, but the careful acclimatisation meant that few signs of altitude sickness were observed by the time that the groups were attempting the peaks; very few people suffered from headaches.
View from Kangsalmathug down valley to Sniamo Valley. Sahib Chera (6,050m) is on right, Geshi is at far end of ridge on right, Samgyal is at end of the valley and Dawa is behind Geshi on right.