The High Society Issue • LADY MARY RETURNS TO LONDON • A CENTURY OF ROYAL WEDDINGS • FLOWERS FIT FOR A QUEEN • 250 YEARS OF THE ROYAL ACADEMY • COUNTRY ESTATES TO PLAY IN • ROGER FEDERER ON WIMBLEDON
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ILLUSTRATION: BY CLYM EVERNDEN
eople do half expect me to arrive on horseback,’ confessed cover star Michelle Dockery when she arrived for our shoot at Claridge’s. If there’s a downside to starring in the phenomenally successful Downton Abbey, it is that fans don’t expect their Lady Mary to exist in the modern world, much less one outside of the aristocracy. As she returns to London and the National Theatre, we meet a thoroughly modern star as comfortable playing a gunslinger as a blueblood (page 70). For those who find themselves compelled by stories of the past, the new archive room at Claridge’s is a thrilling addition; curator Kate Hudson has sifted through two centuries worth of menus, ledgers, luggage tags and letters to find the tales within. It’s a magnificent jigsaw of British history, taking us through two world wars – with all the rationing and sheltering of royals they entailed
CONTRIBUTORS
– through the decadent parties of the Swinging Sixties to today’s Instagram-perfect events (page 85). Moving forward, this season is of course one in which we celebrate the fabulously glamorous wedding of the country’s most eligible bachelor, Prince Harry, to Meghan Markle. In honour of this momentous point in British history, we revisit our favourite royal weddings of past generations, from the hushed ceremony of Wallis and Edward to the wave-the-bunting frenzy of Kate and William (page 38). And should these high-society hijinks leave you in need of R&R, we’ve scoured the bucolic English countryside to find the most restorative country estates; all available to create your own Downton for a weekend. Horseback arrival entirely optional. We hope you enjoy the issue.
CLARIDGE’S
THE CONNAUGHT
THE BERKELEY
Brook Street, London W1K 4HR +44 (0)20 7629 8860 claridges.co.uk
Carlos Place, London W1K 2AL +44 (0)20 7499 7070 the-connaught.co.uk
Wilton Place, London SW1X 7RL +44 (0)20 7235 6000 the-berkeley.co.uk
DAVID DOWNTON
In our High Society issue, artist-inresidence David Downton draws the peerless Zac Posen (page 112). Town or country? The one is the antidote to the other. My favourite royal is… HM The Queen, especially after The Crown. My High Society style icon is… Bernard Boutet de Monvel.
maybourne.com. For reservations please call +44(0)20 7107 8830 or email reservations@maybourne.com Alternatively call toll free from the UK 0808 238 0245 or from the USA +1 866 599 6991
Claridges . The Connaught . The Berkeley | 11
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GABRIELLA LE BRETON
As we all put our ski things away for the season, travel expert Gabriella Le Breton brings the best chalets to book now. (page 96). Town or country? Country every time, for the pure magic of nature. My favourite royal of all time is… Being half Dutch, I have enormous respect for Queen Beatrix. My High Society style icon is… The wildly beautiful and stylish Jacqueline, comtesse de Ribes.
ESTHER WALKER
Journalist and author Esther lets Sharky and George try to impress her children... (page 34). Town or country? I can’t have one without the other. It’s like a boiled egg without salt. My favourite royal of all time is… Prince Harry obviously. We’d do tequila slammers together then go joyriding in a Chinook. My High Society style icon is… my dear, departed friend Adrian Gill.
HANNAH BETTS
Ventaglio
As a new archive curator sets about piecing together the history of Claridge’s, journalist Hannah uncovers the most thrilling of tales (page 85). Town or country? Not merely town, metropolis. What does one do in the country? My favourite royal of all time is… Elizabeth I always: the ruffs, the pearls, the swag. My High Society style icon is… Vivien Leigh – such glamour.
EMILIE MCMEEKAN
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In celebration of this summer’s royal nuptials, journalist and cofounder of The Midult Emilie charts a century of British royal weddings (page 38). Town or country? Town, I am absolutely terrified of country-road driving – dangerous even. My favourite royal of all time is… Does Prince count? My High Society style icon is… Debo Devonshire – so chic with her couture and her chickens.
BILLIE SCHEEPERS
Billie’s work has graced the pages of Vogue, Sunday Times Style and Vanity Fair. For this issue she captures the brilliant actor Michelle Dockery at Claridge’s (above, page 70). Town or country? Town – specifically Berlin. I was born there and I am still fascinated by its constant change. My favourite royal of all time is… Queen Louise of Prussia – I admire her courage to stand up for her beliefs. My High Society style icon is… Romy Schneider. She is the ultimate icon for me.
JONATHAN BELL
Wallpaper*s editor-at-large meets André Fu as the architect unveils two dramatic new suites at The Berkeley (page 56). Town or country? Town – because of allergies. My favourite royal of all time is… Grace Kelly. My High Society style icon is… The Count (principality of Sesame Street).
SCARLETT CONLON
The Guardian’s deputy fashion editor meets the extraordinarily talented Simone Rocha. (page 80). Town or country? Town. I’m a Londoner, it’s in my blood. My favourite royal of all time is… Probably Princess Diana – for her spirit and her style. My High Society style icon is… Does Grace Kelly in High Society count? Claridges . The Connaught . The Berkeley | 13
INSIDE SPRING/SUMMER 2018
17
The season Your guide to the months ahead
80
New romantic Simone Rocha invites us to explore her new collection
31
My London By Roger Federer
85
32
Summer in the city We ask our friends to share their favourite London hotspots and hideaways when the sun shines
Time and place A new archive curator at Claridge’s is piecing together the hotel’s great heritage
88
Life in colour Meet the team charged with filling the hotels with glorious flower arrangements all year round
92
Start over Wellness retreats to restore
96
Move fast Ski chalets to book now
100
Fit for a queen Coronation gowns to impress from New Year’s Day, 1953
103
Raising a glass Parties and events
106
The scoop Maybourne news and views
112
A portrait of… Zac Posen by David Downton
34
38
44
51
54
What larks Esther Walker lets her children be the judge of Sharky and George’s new adventures at Claridge’s Royal exchange As Harry and Meghan tie the knot, we look back over a century of royal weddings Escape to the country Rolling hills and open fires – our favourite country estates available to take over Sparks will fly The Royal Academy is celebrating 250 years with a bang this summer Sharp objects Louisa Buck meets legendary artist Sir Michael Craig-Martin
55 56
Light touch The enigmatic architect André Fu comes to London
58
10 things you didn’t know about… The Connaught Bar Insightful facts from the city’s favourite bar
59
Dive in The new Out Of The Blue experience at The Berkeley
60
The visionaries Behind the scenes in London’s leading pastry kitchens
67
Look smart Menswear in London
69
Spring to life The latest S/S18 pieces to see you through the season
70
The lady returns Cover star Michelle Dockery on life after Downton
ON THE COVER Michelle wears capelet top by Sarli at William Vintage and diamond necklace by Chanel. Photographed by Billie Scheepers. Styled by Mary-Anna Kearney. Make-up by Adam De Cruz using Niod and Armani. Hair by Maarit Niemela. © 2018 Brook Street Publishing Ltd
Prize lots The auctions to bid on this summer
“There are reports suggesting that Gandhi brought a goat to stay at Claridge’s in 1931, but we’re still hunting for evidence” SEE PAGE 85
Published by Brook Street Publishing Ltd, 71-75 Shelton Street, London, WC2H 9JQ
Claridges . The Connaught . The Berkeley | 15
The Season MAYBOURNE’S MODERN BRITISH CALENDAR
Azzedine Alaïa: The Couturier
IMAGE: © PETER LINDBERGH. WORDS: KATY PARKER
Adored by everyone from Greta Garbo to Grace Jones, couturier Azzedine Alaïa was a master of cut, fit and tailoring. His decision to construct each garment by hand, ignoring the Fashion Week deadlines, led him to be crowned ‘couture’s rebellious outsider’. Now, in an exhibition conceived and co-curated with Monsieur Alaïa before his death, the career of the great designer will be celebrated with a display of more than 60 pieces personally selected by the great man himself. 10 May – 7 October designmuseum.org
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CALENDAR
Art
UNTIL 9 SEPTEMBER
THE EY EXHIBITION: PICASSO 1932 – LOVE, FAME, TRAGEDY The Tate Modern’s first solo Picasso exhibition is dedicated to the life and work of the artist in 1932 – a period now referred to as his ‘year of wonders’. Against a backdrop of tempestuous European politics, Picasso’s paintings reached a new level of sensuality, while his celebrity status hit fresh heights. tate.org.uk
Fashion
21 APRIL – 27 JANUARY
Sustainability has been big news in fashion for some time. Using pieces by trailblazing brands Stella McCartney and Dior, this exhibition explores the symbiotic relationship between nature and the textile industry, looking at how one inspires the other, and how the industry can limit its carbon footprint. vam.ac.uk
APRIL
Nude woman lying in the sun on the beach 1932. The Penrose Collection
Sport
22 APRIL
VIRGIN MONEY LONDON MARATHON Join the crowds cheering on the runners as they undergo the ultimate endurance test. The best spots are on Tower Bridge or close to the finish line on The Mall. virginmoneylondonmarathon.com 24 APRIL
ISLAMIC AND INDIAN ART SALE Covering a wide range of art and artefacts dating from the 9th to the 19th centuries, this sale includes Arabic and Persian manuscripts, pottery, metalwork and glass, ivory, jewellery and stonework. One of the top lots is this vibrant piece by Gulam Mohammed Sheikh, an award-winning painter, poet and art critic from Gujarat. bonhams.com
Auction
Art
La Cour d’Albane, Rouen, 1892
IMAGE: © VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM, © BONHAMS, © SMITH COLLEGE MUSEUM OF ART NORTHAMPTON, MASSACHUSETTS. © SUCCESSION PICASSO/DACS LONDON, 2018
Fashioned from Nature
9 APRIL – 29 JULY
Monet & Architecture Europe is positively awash with landmarks. Now, you are invited to enjoy them from a different perspective at the National Gallery, where a new Monet exhibition showcases the artist’s dreamlike depictions of buildings across the city of London and beyond. nationalgallery.org.uk Claridges . The Connaught . The Berkeley | 19
CALENDAR
Culture
FROM 5 MAY Culture
22 – 26 MAY
RHS CHELSEA FLOWER SHOW Embrace your green-fingered side at gardening’s greatest showcase. This year’s show boasts health and wellbeing gardens – promoting the restorative power of plants – and the launch of a new rose. It also sees the debut of The Chelsea Late Event: a chance to view the Artisan Gardens by twilight, accompanied by live music and wine. rhs.org.uk
Goodwood Opening Saturday
12 MAY – 4 NOVEMBER
THE FUTURE STARTS HERE Can design stop climate change? Are cities for everyone? This exciting new exhibition explores how emerging technologies could shape the world of tomorrow. vam.ac.uk
Culture
13 MAY
Planet Earth II – Live in Concert Was there a household in the land that didn’t sit down to watch the David Attenborough-narrated Planet Earth II? Enjoy it afresh at the Royal Albert Hall this spring, accompanied by live performances of the dramatic score by Hans Zimmer and others. royalalberthall.com
Theatre
17 MAY – 15 SEPTEMBER
Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre A summer staple, the open-air theatre returns to enthrall fans in the beautiful Regent’s Park. After last year’s outstanding production of Jesus Christ Superstar, this summer’s line-up looks even better: Peter Pan (17 May – 15 June), The Turn of the Screw (22–30 June), As You Like It (6–28 July) and Little Shop of Horrors (3 August – 15 September). openairtheatre.com 20 | Claridges . The Connaught . The Berkeley
If you have a passion for plants of the rare variety, make your way to Kew’s newly restored Temperate House. The Grade I listed building is the largest Victorian glasshouse in the world, boasting more than 1,000 different species of endangered plants, arranged geographically, so you can undertake a horticultural tour of the world. kew.org
Celebrate the start of the season in style at Goodwood’s Opening Saturday: a fine excuse to dress up and enjoy a day of racing. Book tickets for the Richmond Enclosure, which offers a direct view of the Winning Post. The nearby Champagne Lawn provides the perfect respite. goodwood.com
MAY
From left: Superflex, Aura Power bodysuit, Yves Behar x Superflex; body code animation; Luchtsingel, crowdfunded pedestrian bridge in Rotterdam
TEMPERATE HOUSE AT KEW GARDENS
5 MAY
IMAGES: HAYES DAVIDSON; RBG KEW; JAYSON FONG. DAN KITWOOD/GETTY IMAGES. COURTESY OF SUPERFLEX. DREW BERRY, THE WALTER AND ELIZA HALL INSTITUTE OF MEDICAL RESEARCH © E.O.WILSON BIODIVERSITY FOUNDATION. OSSIP VAN DUIVENBODE, 2011 – 2015 © ZUS. ROBBIE JACK/CORBIS VIA GETTY IMAGES. SIMON BRUTY/GETTY IMAGES. ©ROH, 2017. PHOTOGRAPHED BY BILL COOPER
Science
Sport
Vadim Muntagirov and Marianela Núñez in Swan Lake
Art
Dance
OPENING 19 MAY
17 MAY – 21 JUNE
RA250: THE NEW ROYAL ACADEMY OF ARTS The Royal Academy of Arts has given much to London, from landmark exhibitions by Ai Weiwei to the first UK gallery hanging of Monet’s Agapanthus triptych. Celebrate its 250th anniversary at the opening of a much anticipated expansion. royalacademy.org.uk
Swan Lake Tchaikovsky’s spellblinding classical ballet is brought to the stage once again at the Royal Opera House this month. The timeless tale of passion and intrigue will be performed by the Royal Ballet, and will feature additional content by choreographer Liam Scarlett. roh.org.uk Claridges . The Connaught . The Berkeley | 21
CALENDAR
Frida Kahlo in blue satin blouse, 1939
Food & Drink
13 – 17 JUNE
Cotton huipil; printed cotton skirt with embroidery and holán (ruffle)
Art
16 JUNE – 4 NOVEMBER
Taste of London Necklace made by Matilde Poulat, Mexico City, c.1950. Museo Frida Kahlo
Clockwise from right: Weie, 2017, Feke, 2013, Fiebe, 2017
Sport
19 – 23 JUNE
Royal Ascot
20 JUNE – 9 SEPTEMBER
Tomma Abts
A quintessentially British day out and a marvellous excuse to dust off the top hat. Catch a glimpse of Her Majesty during the Royal Procession and enjoy a jolly singsong around the bandstand after the last race. Place your bets wisely. ascot.co.uk
22 | Claridges . The Connaught . The Berkeley
Some of London’s most fascinating art can be found in the city’s smaller galleries. Case in point: the Serpentine Sackler Gallery’s exhibition of the work of Tomma Abts. The German artist creates abstract pieces being guided by intuition, with no preconceived notion of how the final product will look. serpentinegalleries.org
London’s food scene has evolved into something of which the city can be truly proud. Nowhere is this more evident than Taste of London, where chefs from the best restaurants – including Sabor, Bao and Kricket – rustle up gourmet goodies. london.tastefestivals.com
Art
28 JUNE – 21 OCTOBER
MICHAEL JACKSON: ON THE WALL To coincide with what would have been Michael Jackson’s sixtieth birthday, the National Portrait Gallery explores the influence the star had on leading names in contemporary art. Including works by Andy Warhol and Isa Genzken. npg.org.uk Art
Above left: Andy Warhol, Michael Joseph Jackson, 1984 Above: Kehinde Wiley, Equestrian Portrait of King Philip II, 2009
28 JUNE – 4 JULY
MASTERPIECE LONDON Immerse yourself in art and antiques, as 150 galleries unite under one roof at the Royal Hospital Chelsea. Whether your passion lies in 18th-century furniture or modern sculpture, this is the perfect place to find inspiration. masterpiecefair.com
Theatre
Culture
FROM 8 JUNE
OPENS 15 JUNE
Julie
Serpentine Pavilion
August Strindberg’s 1888 tragedy Miss Julie receives a modern update at the hands of Polly Stenham and a stellar cast including Carrie Cracknell (The Deep Blue Sea) and Vanessa Kirby (The Crown). Wild and newly single, Julie throws a late night party, but things soon decend into a dark power game. nationaltheatre.org.uk
The honour of designing this year’s Pavilion on the Serpentine Gallery has fallen to Mexico’s rising star Frida Escobedo, the youngest architect to be invited to do so. Celebrated for her dynamic projects that reactivate urban space, Escobedo’s courtyard, complete with mirrored canopy and reflecting pool, plays with light and shadow. serpentinegalleries.org Claridges . The Connaught . The Berkeley | 23
JUNE
FRIDA KAHLO: MAKING HER SELF UP Delve into the life of one of the art world’s most enigmatic figures. This exhibition brings together an extraordinary collection of artefacts and clothing belonging to the iconic Mexican artist Frida Kahlo, never previously shown outside of Mexico. vam.ac.uk
IMAGES: © STEVEN CARGILL. © JENNA FOXTON. © LUKE HAYES © DIEGO RIVIERA AND FRIDA KAHLO ARCHIVES, BANCO DE MÉXICO, FIDUCIARY OF THE TRUST OF THE DIEGO RIVIERA AND FRIDA KAHLO MUSEUMS. © MUSEO FRIDA KAHLO © NICKOLAS MURAY PHOTO ARCHIVES. WILLIAM VANDERSON/FOX PHOTOS/GETTY IMAGES. © MARCUS LEITH. COURTESY DAVID ZWIRNER, NEW YORK. COURTESY OF THE NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY. © FRIDA ESCOBEDO, TALLER DE ARQUITECTURA, RENDERINGS BY ATMÓSFERA
Art
CALENDAR
Travel
Sport
5 – 8 JULY
BEST BANK HOLIDAY BREAKS
FORMULA 1 ROLEX BRITISH GRAND PRIX
Escape the city for a day and explore the best that Britain has to offer
Regarded as the most challenging course on the racing calendar, Silverstone will once again be the stage for the Formula 1 British Grand Prix. And this year looks set to be more adrenaline-fuelled than any other, with all eyes on the long-standing rivalry between Mercedes’ Lewis Hamilton and McLaren’s Fernando Alonso. formula1.com
CAMBRIDGE
Around an hour from central London by train, Cambridge is an idyllic escape from the Big Smoke. Traditionalists can visit King’s College, dating back to 1441, and take a punt on the river with a local guide. Modernists can enjoy the reopened Kettle’s Yard, one of the UK’s most famous contemporary art galleries outside of London.
4 – 8 JULY
HENLEY ROYAL REGATTA This five-day event dates back to 1939, and sees hundreds of crews row their way up and down the Thames, as banks of impeccably dressed spectators look on. Parties and picnics abound as everyone gets well and truly into the summer spirit. henleyregatta.com
MARGATE
2 – 15 JULY
Hat, £255, Yosuzi, available from Harrods. Dress, £630, Borgo de Nor, available from Net-a-Porter. Pool slides, £485, Fendi
Music
The great and the good of the tennis world return once again to the grass courts of Wimbledon to battle it out for the coveted titles. Roger Federer made history last year when he won his eighth Wimbledon championship; can he continue his seemingly endless winning streak, or will British number one Andy Murray return to fitness and reclaim the crown? wimbledon.com
13 JULY – 8 SEPTEMBER
THE BBC PROMS In the historic Royal Albert Hall, watch as the finest orchestras breathe life into masterpieces old and new at the world’s biggest classical music festival. Festivities culminate in the grand spectacle that is the Last Night of the Proms. royalalberthall.com Music
6 – 15 JULY
BRITISH SUMMER TIME HYDE PARK
Each summer, truly legendary acts take to the open-air BST stage in the heart of Hyde Park for spectacular evenings of music and dancing. This year, the stage that has seen everyone from Tom Petty to Taylor Swift will host Roger Waters (6 July), The Cure (7 July), Eric Clapton (8 July), Michael Bublé (13 July), Bruno Mars (right, 14 July) and Paul Simon (15 July). bst-hydepark.com 24 | Claridges . The Connaught . The Berkeley
Carmen La Cubana As the city heats up, treat yourself to temperature-raising music and dance at Sadler’s Wells. Inspired by Oscar Hammerstein II’s Broadway hit Carmen Jones, Carmen La Cubana fuses Bizet’s classic score with authentic Cuban styles, mixing opera with salsa, mambo, rumba and cha-cha-cha. sadlerswells.com
WHITSTABLE
IMAGES: © MARCUS GINNS, © AELTC/THOMAS LOVELOCK. © HUFTON + CROW. © MIKE KEMP. © PETER MACDIARMID. © MARIE NOELLE ROBERT. © JOHN BODKIN. MAT HAYWARD/GETTY IMAGES FOR ATLANTIC RECORDS. JAKOB EBREY
JULY
WIMBLEDON
1 – 18 AUGUST
AUGUST
This seaside town has had a major revamp and emerged as a popular bolthole for hip Londoners wanting to get out of the city. Much credit is due to Margate-raised Tracey Emin, who launched the Turner Contemporary gallery there in 2011. Antony Gormley’s Another Time sculpture will be on display at the gallery until November.
Dance
Kent’s Whitstable is famed for its oysters and beaches, lined with brightly coloured beach huts. For a quintessentially British seaside experience, visit the town’s oldest restaurant, Wheelers: the best place for a taste of the area’s superlative seafood. Order at the oyster bar or plan ahead and reserve a table in the small restaurant.
UNTIL 19 AUGUST
RA SUMMER EXHIBITION 2018 A mainstay of our summer diaries, this year’s display of emerging and established artists promises to be extra-special: the Royal Academy is celebrating its 250th anniversary and Grayson Perry is curating. royalacademy.org.uk
Art
Culture
9 – 22 AUGUST
Film4 Summer Screen One of the hottest tickets of the season, Film4 Summer Screen at Somerset House shows premieres and classic films in the most picturesque of settings. Nearby is Skye Gyngell’s acclaimed Spring restaurant, which serves a delectable selection of homemade ice creams. somersethouse.org.uk Claridges . The Connaught . The Berkeley | 25
CALENDAR
Food & Drink
SEPTEMBER
Prêt-à-Portea at The Berkeley Can there be a finer match than fashion and afternoon tea? ‘Of course not,’ says The Berkeley, which offers its now famous Prêt-à-Portea throughout the year. Each season, talented pastry chefs turn current catwalk designs into edible works-of-art; look out for Burberrytrench biscuits, Erdem-inspired cakes and bitesize Jimmy Choo shoes. the-berkeley.co.uk Theatre
OPENS SEPTEMBER
4 – 23 SEPTEMBER
Antony and Cleopatra
SEPTEMBER
Star of stage and screen Ralph Fiennes returns to London’s theatre scene this month, taking the male lead in the National’s adaptation of Shakespeare’s Antony and Cleopatra. The Academy Award-nominated Sophie Okonedo will play the Egyptian queen in this tragic tale of betrayal and power. nationaltheatre.org.uk
Design
LONDON DESIGN BIENNALE Design enthusiasts, take note: Somerset House is the home of this year’s Biennale. Participants from more than forty countries explore how innovation affects the way we live; from rustic craft to the latest feats in technology, including a handmade textile installation from Guatemala and an intriguing, interactive robot display from Norway. londondesignbiennale.com
Fashion
26 | Claridges . The Connaught . The Berkeley
LONDON FASHION WEEK S/S 2019 As the season draws to a close, take a look forward to next year, as the biggest names in fashion showcase their S/S19 collections. This year, all eyes are set on Victoria Beckham as she shows at LFW for the first time, for her 10th collection. londonfashionweek.co.uk
IMAGES: © MIKE MARSLAND. © ED REEVE
ERDEM
ROKSANDA
BURBERRY
14 – 18 SEPTEMBER
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Social calendar A LB E RT E M B A N K M E N T
YOUR SOCIAL CALENDAR AT A GLANCE
Until 9 September PICASSO 1932 – LOVE, FAME, TRAGEDY Tate Modern
16 – 19 May ELIZABETH – THE ROYAL BALLET Barbican Theatre
4 – 8 July ROYAL REGATTA Henley-on-Thames
9 April – 29 July MONET & ARCHITECTURE National Gallery
17 – 20 May PHOTO LONDON Somerset House
3 – 8 July RHS HAMPTON COURT PALACE FLOWER SHOW Hampton Court Palace
17 May – 21 June SWAN LAKE Royal Opera House
6 – 8 July BRITISH GRAND PRIX Silverstone
12 – 21 April VOICES OF AMERICA Sadler’s Wells 21 April – 27 January FASHIONED FROM NATURE V&A 22 April LONDON MARATHON London 24 April ISLAMIC AND INDIAN ART SALE Bonhams 2 May – 26 August AS YOU LIKE IT Globe Theatre 5 May GOODWOOD OPENING SATURDAY Goodwood Estate Opens 5 May TEMPERATE HOUSE Kew Gardens 10 May – 7 October AZZEDINE ALAÏA: THE COUTURIER Design Museum 12 May – 4 November THE FUTURE STARTS HERE V&A 13 May PLANET EARTH II – LIVE IN CONCERT Royal Albert Hall
17 May – 15 September OPEN AIR THEATRE Regent’s Park Opens 19 May RA250 Royal Academy of Arts 22 – 26 May RHS CHELSEA FLOWER SHOW Royal Hospital Chelsea 25 May – 23 September ORLA KIELY: A LIFE IN PATTERN Fashion & Textile Museum Until 27 May ANOTHER KIND OF LIFE Barbican Art Gallery 8 June – 4 August JULIE National Theatre 9 – 10 June OPEN GARDEN SQUARES Across London 12 June – 19 August SUMMER EXHIBITION Royal Academy of Arts
13 – 17 June TASTE OF LONDON Regent’s Park Opens 15 June SERPENTINE PAVILION Serpentine, Hyde Park 16 June – 4 November FRIDA KAHLO: MAKING HER SELF UP V&A 18 June – 1 September FUN HOME Young Vic 19 – 23 June ROYAL ASCOT Ascot Racecourse 20 June – 9 September TOMMA ABTS Serpentine Galleries 21 June – 8 September THE KING AND I London Palladium 23 June – 8 September THE LIEUTENANT OF INISHMORE Noël Coward Theatre 28 June – 4 July MASTERPIECE LONDON Royal Hospital Chelsea 28 June – 21 October MICHAEL JACKSON: ON THE WALL National Portrait Gallery From 4 July THE LEHMAN TRILOGY Lyttelton Theatre 2 – 15 July WIMBLEDON The All England Lawn Tennis Club. Wimbledon
6 – 15 July BRITISH SUMMER TIME Hyde Park 13 July – 8 September THE BBC PROMS Royal Albert Hall 1 – 18 August CARMEN LA CUBANA Sadler’s Wells 9 – 22 August FILM4 SUMMER SCREEN Somerset House Opens September ANTONY & CLEOPATRA National Theatre 1 – 22 September SYLVIA The Old Vic 4 – 23 September LONDON DESIGN BIENNALE Somerset House 20 – 23 September LONDON FASHION WEEK Various venues M For more on the modern British season, visit maybourne.com/ theseason
Show Apartment Master Bedroom
Live on the finest curve of the river – Move in this year The Corniche is an exclusive riverside address with highly specified three bedroom apartments, occupying a whole floor, within the exclusive Skyline Collection. Offering an array of relaxation and entertainment facilities featuring a residents bar, private dining and roof terraces as well as ten pin bowling, private cinema and luxury spa and pool. Enjoy a lifestyle that is ahead of the curve. Prices from £6,250,000. New Show Apartment now launched. For more information visit the Marketing Suite at 21 Albert Embankment or call 020 3504 5445. Open daily from 10am – 6pm Prices and details correct at time of going to press. Photography is indicative only.
www.cornichelondon.co.uk Proud to be a member of the Berkeley Group of companies
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F LY V I C T O R . C O M
IMAGES: COURTESY OF ROLEX, VALERY HACHE/AFP/GETTY IMAGES. LENSCAP / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO. NEIL CLASPER / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO. OLI SCARFF/AFP/GETTY IMAGES
What’s the best thing a cab driver has ever said to you? ‘I am your biggest fan.’ What advice would you give a tourist? Take advantage of the renowned West End: go to a play or musical. Where’s the best place to people watch? Piccadilly. What is your most memorable London moment? Having lunch with Her Majesty The Queen at Wimbledon… and winning Wimbledon of course! Which building would you like to buy? The Shard.
Which song, book or film best sums up London? Fleming’s James Bond – any era. Which museums/galleries do you like to visit? I love the Tate and the Natural History Museum. The best place to let your hair down in London? I have some catching-up to do when it comes to going out in London... but I love the Blue Bar at The Berkeley. What is your biggest extravagance? My car and my watch (right). Where is the place you’d like to be locked in overnight? In all honesty, the place I’d most like to be locked overnight is simply my hotel suite, in a big, cozy bed.
From top: James Bond books by Ian Fleming; Her Majesty The Queen at Wimbledon in 2010; the Shard at sunrise, the Rolex Sky-Dweller; Federer at the 2018 Laureus World Sports Awards
Can you describe your ideal day in London? My ideal day would definitely start with a lie-in! I would then meet up with friends, go shopping around Knightsbridge or Bond Street, visit one of the art galleries, and end with a great dinner. What does the rest of 2018 have in store for you? I hope I stay healthy and play the tournaments that I still enjoy! M
Roger Federer will be playing in this year’s Wimbledon Championships, 2–15 July wimbledon.com Claridges . The Connaught . The Berkeley | 31
SEASON
‘My favourite moment of summer is the Chelsea Flower Show. Now, so much of London joins in by decorating their spaces with flowers. I love everything about flowers and find they boost my mood better than anything. In another life I would be a florist....’ – Lulu Guinness
‘Every year the Serpentine Gallery commissions a temporary summer pavilion by a leading architect, which is always such a treat to go and see. Each pavilion is completed within six months and stays on the gallery’s lawn for three months, for everyone to explore’ – GEORGINA COHEN
‘I love hanging out locally at the weekend. We are lucky enough to call the Dulwich Picture Gallery one of our local and favourite haunts! In the summer months my family and friends sit on the green eating freshly BBQ’d treats and during the evenings, there’s nothing nicer than a refreshing Pimms at the outdoor pavilion.’ – ERIN O’CONNOR
‘In summer I dodge the sun by ducking into the shadowy confessional of The Fumoir bar at Claridge’s, which is immune to weather or time. However long you stay (always longer than you think) you are on holiday from life. Santé.’ – David Downton
‘In the summer, this is the best city in the world. Cabbies stop for cyclists, everyone walks round almost naked – starting in early June – and people even occasionally smile at each other. On my days off, I’ll head to Victoria Park alone, and sit and read and watch the world go by. Stopping in London is a luxury, as is reading – this year I’m going to try and master both!’ – JACK GUINNESS
“Every Saturday morning I love to take my girls and go to Borough Market to see all the fresh produce on offer this week.” – HÉLÈNE DARROZE
WHEN THE SUN IS SHINING, WE THINK LONDON IS QUITE SIMPLY THE BEST CITY IN THE WORLD. HERE, WE ASK SOME OF OUR FRIENDS HOW THEY MAKE THE MOST OF THOSE LONG SUMMER DAYS... Illustrations by Susannah Garrod
“There’s nothing I like more on a warm summer’s evening than cycling through the city. Watching the sun set behind Buckingham Palace whilst cycling down The Mall is almost otherworldly. If I have time, I keep riding to Richmond Park – the view from the top is breathtaking.’ – PATRICK GRANT
‘I love going to Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre to see Shakespeare in the Park.’ – Ruth Rogers
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‘I bike everywhere, all year round. But in summer I like to cut through Hyde Park, stopping off at The Serpentine to check out what’s showing at the gallery before meeting friends for brunch at the Zaha Hadid-designed Magazine restaurant in the heart of the park.’ – LAURA BAILEY
‘My wife and I always take the children to Wimbledon. We think it’s a huge adventure to go down and queue for the tickets – once we were even lucky enough to get Centre Court tickets.’ – Marcus Wareing Claridges . The Connaught . The Berkeley | 33
FAMILY
WHAT LARKS y anxiety peaked, I think, when IF PLAY IS THE WORK OF A my children tumbled out of the CHILD, WE CAN’T THINK taxi at Claridge’s – a little after lunchtime – like half-trained OF BETTER TUTORS THAN spaniels going after a squirrel. ETONEDUCATED They bashed their way through ENTERTAINERS SHARKY & those famous revolving doors and galloped into the chequerfloored lobby of one of London’s finest hotels. Sam was shrieking, GEORGE. ESTHER WALKER ‘This is amazing!’ and Kitty’s hair bow was already askew. It was LETS HER CHILDREN BE then that I finally understood what I had done. I had brought my THE JUDGES children – my children! – to Claridge’s. My throat felt tight. I was slightly nauseated with panic. It had seemed like such a good plan at home, but now… Our progress through the lobby was halted by a row of four know – a child under the age of twelve. They are, quite simply, concierges in smart uniforms. Kitty and Sam stopped and gazed the kings of children’s entertainment. Charlie ‘Sharky’ Astor up open-mouthed. Handily for me, my children had no notion and George Whitefield met at Eton and have been organising that these were harmless footmen and not, say, soldiers and became children’s parties full-time since 2007. shy. All four, to a man, smiled and looked somehow pleased to But they aren’t ordinary parties. And their entertainers aren’t see this pair of grubby, chaos-bringing ordinary either; there are no shabby little weasels. ‘Welcome to Claridge’s,’ clown costumes, tired magic routines said one of them. or boring same-old, same-old games. The lift to our room on the third Smart, well-spoken, charming Gadgets, gizmos and games to keep floor blew Kitty and Sam’s tiny minds men in their mid-twenties, Sharky your little ones amused afresh. ‘Mummy!’ shouted Kitty and George come bounding through at me – as is her wont, even if I am the door like a couple of wild older standing six inches away. ‘There is a brothers, armed with jokes, fun, SOFA in the LIFT!’ ideas and games that seem always to Once in our room, I was amused be teetering on the verge of chaos. ARCHITECTURE to see that the multi-tiered cream tea Theirs is the company, after all, LONDON, £49.95, LEGO stand was taller than Sam. Kitty, eyes where recruits are interviewed either like saucers, said, ‘Can I actually eat up a tree or in a huge ball pit. one of these cakes?’ Now securely away ‘We find that asking them to from potential embarrassment in the climb into the treehouse or navigate HARRY POTTER hotel’s lobby, I relaxed and told Kitty a giant pool of balls to meet us is a TIME TURNER, £59.95, HARRODS to eat as many as she could. good way of finding out if they’re However, we were not here for the the right personality type,’ explains COZMO CARRYING CASE £34.95, food, but to try out an ingenious George. ‘We also don’t tend to HARRODS service offered by Claridge’s. And hire professional entertainers. We Kitty and Sam, being children, were find that people for whom this is a uniquely qualified for the task. sideline can bring something else to HARRY POTTER WIZARD The hotel has united with children’s the job. And they’re great role models CHESS SET, £59.99, party organisers Sharky & George to for the kids – if they’re chatting at a HARRODS create bespoke entertainment packages kids’ tea, they can say, “Actually, I’m for your kids, while you soak in the a tree surgeon.”’ SPYNET TOUCH VIDEO tub, have lunch, or just read a book. On our visit, it wasn’t, to my WATCH, £59.95, HARRODS If you’re unfamiliar with Sharky & childrens’ confusion, Sharky or George, you probably don’t have – or
IMAGES: SAM BARKER. COURTESY OF HARRODS.
CHILD’S PLAY
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Claridges . The Connaught . The Berkeley | 35
FAMILY
DISCOVER THE NEW LUGGAGE COLLECTION
“As I took in his rosy cheeks and bright eyes, I thought: ‘My children are going to destroy you.’”
George themselves who arrived at our room to spirit them away for their three-hour adventure, but a smiling and lively 21-yearold called Jonas. As I took in his rosy cheeks and bright eyes, I thought: ‘My children are going to destroy you.’ But, within ten seconds, Jonas had them completely under control, deliberately mixing up their names and mishearing words until they were shrieking with delight. Jonas may be seventeen years younger than me, but he has more control over my kids than I can ever hope for. Within ten minutes, all three had disappeared without a backward glance. Bye then! Some time passed very pleasantly. I caught up with my excellent new book and enjoyed a proper, long conversation with my husband – who travels a lot for work – for the first time in the size of a guinea pig. Jonas duly apprehended the ‘thief ’ – weeks. We ate most of the enormous cream tea laid out in our a pretty pastry chef called Hope. room for four people, while plotting what to have for dinner. Covered in flour, triumphant, gleeful and slightly manic, my Around 4.30pm there was a knock at the door. It was Jonas and kids were then spirited away by Jonas for a tea, where he spent my children, who were quite delirious with excitement. forty-five minutes losing at noughts and crosses before returning They were looking for a ‘diamond’, as they were in the middle of them, singing and dancing, to our room for bathtime. a ginormous treasure hunt that Jonas had spent a day in Claridge’s The next morning at 8am, as devising with Sharky. It was long and my husband and I nursed mild complex, using all manner of high-tech hangovers from one or two (or seven) equipment (tracking devices, secret clues Manhattans in The Fumoir, there on mirrors uncovered by UV light) and KITTY was a knock at the door. There stood taking them all around the hotel – even Age: 7 Jonas, bright-eyed and cheerful. outside (with Jonas, of course) to quiz the Best thing: ‘The treasure hunt and Away went my kids again, in their doorman for a clue. when we made sherbet.’ pajamas, for a morning of prank I joined in for the last twenty minutes Worst thing: ‘When the treasure workshops and science experiments. of this grand adventure and was taken hunt ended.’ I, on the other hand, took myself off down those sweeping stairs, back to the spa to enjoy a superb facial through the lobby, with Jonas leading SAM and to wish that we could all live and the kids in hot pursuit. We wove Age: 5 here, forever. M through surprised diners calmly enjoying Best thing: ‘The science experiments @esthermcoren. their cream teas, and entered the bright and when we made slime.’ Worst thing: ‘When Jonas couldn’t To book your own Sharky & George lights and hustle of the kitchen. There come home with us.’ adventure visit claridges.co.uk or we tracked down, in a flour bin, the sharkyandgeorge.com. huge diamond, which turned out to be 36 | Claridges . The Connaught . The Berkeley
IMAGES: SAM BARKER
THE VERDICT
FEATURE
Royal exchange
As the country’s most eligible bachelor ties the knot, we look back over a century of British royal weddings – and the diamonds, dresses and dramas that have gone down in history By Emilie McMeekan
IMAGES: PRINCE HARRY AND MEGHAN MARKLE DURING AN OFFICIAL PHOTOCALL TO ANNOUNCE THEIR ENGAGEMENT (SAMIR HUSSEIN/WIREIMAGE); KEYSTONE PICTURES USA / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO
PRINCE EDWARD AND BESSIE WALLIS WARFIELD SIMPSON, 3 JUNE 1937, CHÂTEAU DE CANDÉ
he world is suffering from full-blown royal wedding fever. When that engagement was announced… what a moment. That faintly naughty prince. Meghan’s Hollywood sparkle. Even the most staunchly unromantic among us couldn’t help but be happy for this oh-so photogenic couple. All of this attention turned once more towards the palace got us reminiscing about other royal brides and grooms: the generations that have gone before the flame-haired prince and his A-list bride. From scandals to fairytales, and from the conservative post-war era to the unadulterated 1980s blowouts, we chart our favourite moments: the diamonds, the dresses, the dreams – and the dramas.
COURTSHIP: In December 1936, King Edward VIII abdicated the throne to marry ‘the woman I love’. With not one but two living ex-husbands, Wallis Simpson’s bold affair (she whipped him off her friend Lady Furness) with Edward had caused a constitutional crisis. The king – besotted by her chicness and irreverent attitude to his position – was simply unable to keep his passion for his American mistress under wraps. ENGAGEMENT PHOTOS: Are you kidding? It was a scandal! The press chased Wallis to the South of France. THE RING: The 19.77-carat emerald Cartier engagement ring bore the inscription ‘We are ours now 27 X 36’. That’s shorthand for the day Edward proposed: October 27, 1936. THE WEDDING VENUE: Château de Candé, near Tours, in France. No crumbling old château this: in 1927, the Candé estate was bought by a FrenchAmerican couple, Charles and Fern Bedaux, who modernised it to within an inch of its life. Wallis – who enjoyed the mod cons – sought refuge with the Bedauxs during the
furore over the abdication. Conveniently, they employed a full-time telephonist, enabling the couple to keep in touch. THE DRESS: The bride, wrote Time, wore ‘soft blue crepe with a tight, buttoned bodice, a halo-shaped hat of the same color, shoes and gloves to match. At her throat was a tremendous diamond-andsapphire brooch. Mrs. Warfield carried a prayer book, had no bouquet but wore a large lavender orchid at her waist’. CONTROVERSIAL MOMENT: Time gleefully reported: ‘When Vicar Jardine asked, “Wilt thou love her, comfort her, honour and keep her?” overwrought Edward cried, “I will!” in a shrill voice that was almost a scream.’ THE WEDDING GANG: The best man was the elegant Major Edward Dudley ‘Fruity’ Metcalfe, and the bride was walked down the aisle by Herman Rogers, on whom she had a crush. Champagne and toasts followed, with guests including Winston Churchill’s son Randolph and Baron Eugène Rothschild, but no members of the groom’s family – Edward’s successor King George VI forbade it. Cecil Beaton took the wedding pictures. HONEYMOMENT: On reaching their destination in Austria, noted Time, ‘The moon was shining as the Duke [Edward was now Duke of Windsor] carried his Duchess over the threshold.’
Claridges . The Connaught . The Berkeley | 39
FEATURE
PRINCESS ELIZABETH AND LIEUTENANT PHILIP MOUNTBATTEN, 20 NOVEMBER 1947, WESTMINSTER ABBEY COURTSHIP: The thirteen-year-old Princess Elizabeth fell for the dashing Prince Philip of Greece and Denmark on their second meeting, at the British Royal Naval College in Dartmouth in 1939. He was eighteen, and entertained her by jumping over the tennis nets. The match was not without controversy: Philip had no home and no income, and was of ‘foreign origin’. However, Elizabeth would not be moved and they began to exchange letters. ENGAGEMENT PHOTOS: The unionto-be was announced on 9 July 1947, when Elizabeth was twenty-one. They were photographed at Buckingham Palace – him in his naval uniform, her radiant in a pale frock. 40 | Claridges . The Connaught . The Berkeley
THE RING: The diamonds for the ring, by jeweller Philip Antrobus, were from a tiara belonging to the groom’s mother, Princess Andrew of Greece and Denmark. THE WEDDING VENUE: Good old Westminster Abbey. THE DRESS: The princess saved her ration cards to pay for the dress – an ivory silk number by Norman Hartnell, inspired by Botticelli’s painting Primavera. The gown was embellished with white seed pearls imported from America, silver thread, crystals and transparent appliqué tulle embroidery. A thirteen-foot train fell from the shoulders. CONTROVERSIAL MOMENT: On the morning of the wedding, Elizabeth’s tiara snapped. A police escort rushed the court jeweller – standing by in case
of emergency – to his workroom and it was fixed in time. Meanwhile, owing to Britain’s post-war mood, Philip’s German relations – including his sisters – were not invited. The former Edward VIII (see previous page) was also persona non grata. THE WEDDING GANG: Eight bridesmaids attended Princess Elizabeth and 200 million people listened to a BBC radio broadcast of the service. The couple received more than 2,500 gifts from around the world, while Elizabeth’s sister, Princess Margaret, gave them a picnic set. HONEYMOMENT: The pair spent their wedding night at Broadlands, Hampshire – the home of Philip’s uncle, Earl Mountbatten – then went to Birkhall Lodge on the Balmoral estate. Elizabeth’s beloved corgi, Susan, came with them.
“Princess Elizabeth saved her ration cards to pay for her dress, by Norman Hartnell”
IMAGES: TRINITY MIRROR / MIRRORPIX / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO. KEYSTONE PICTURES USA / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO. ANWAR HUSSEIN/GETTY IMAGES
PRINCESS MARGARET AND ANTONY ARMSTRONGJONES, 6 MAY 1960, WESTMINSTER ABBEY COURTSHIP: She was the beautiful but bruised sister of the Queen; he was a society photographer. The pair met through friends at a party, when Margaret was still broken from being forbidden to marry the divorced Captain Peter Townsend. For Antony, however, the palace seemed to relax – at a party at Clarence House, the Queen Mother asked him and Margaret to lead a conga line up and down the stairs. ENGAGEMENT PHOTOS: No stiff portrait for this pair: Margaret toyed with a flower while Antony looked on adoringly (and only slightly terrified). THE RING: Designed by the fiancé for his princess, it looked like a rosebud – to honour Margaret’s middle name, Rose. THE DRESS: The dress – designed, like that of Margaret’s sister, by Norman Hartnell – was a study in restraint. Life proclaimed it ‘the simplest royal wedding gown in history’. But she also wore a tiara made by Garrard in the 1870s. THE WEDDING VENUE: The Westminster Abbey service was the first royal wedding to be televised. Twenty million watched in Britain alone. CONTROVERSIAL MOMENT: British inventor Jeremy Fry – Antony’s friend and, later, James Dyson’s mentor – stepped down as best man after the press discovered he had been arrested in 1952. THE WEDDING GANG: Despite the public’s enthusiasm, Europe’s royal families disapproved of a king’s daughter marrying a photographer; Queen Ingrid of Denmark was the only foreign queen to attend. Margaret had eight bridesmaids, led by her niece Princess Anne. The Duke of Edinburgh escorted the bride. HONEYMOMENT: No muddy Balmoral here; instead, a cruise on the Caribbean aboard Her Majesty’s Yacht Britannia.
PRINCE CHARLES AND LADY DIANA SPENCER, 29 JULY 1981, ST PAUL’S CATHEDRAL COURTSHIP: Lady Diana and Prince Charles had, by her count, met only met thirteen times before they announced their engagement. Diana confessed to her speech coach that Charles wasn’t exactly consistent in his courtship: ‘He’d ring me every day for a week, then wouldn’t speak to me for three weeks. Very odd. I thought, “Fine. Well, he knows where I am if he wants me.”’ ENGAGEMENT PHOTOS: The classic Eighties hair, the pussy-bow blouse, the blue suit, the bit when Charles – asked whether they were in love – said ‘Whatever loves means’… unforgettable. THE RING: From a selection presented by Garrard on an actual platter, Diana chose an 18-carat oval sapphire surrounded by fourteen diamonds – reportedly because it was the biggest. THE WEDDING VENUE: Offering more seating and a longer procession to the Palace, St Paul’s Cathedral won out over Westminster Abbey.
THE DRESS: Designed by Elizabeth and David Emmanuel, the dress boasted a twenty-five-foot train of ivory taffeta and antique lace – over which Diana spilled perfume. The bride, her dress and her father were crammed into a carriage. CONTROVERSIAL MOMENT: Diana did not promise to ‘obey’ Charles during the traditional vows: the word was omitted at the couple’s request, which proved fleetingly controversial. THE WEDDING GANG: You couldn’t move for society bridesmaids and page boys. The latter – eleven-year-old Lord Nicholas Windsor and eight-year-old Edward van Cutsem – were godsons of the Prince of Wales. The bridesmaids included Princess Margaret’s seventeenyear-old daughter Lady Sarah ArmstrongJones, Charles’ second cousin and future model India Hicks, then thirteen, and Winston Churchill’s five-year-old greatgranddaughter Clementine Hambro. HONEYMOMENT: A ‘Just Married’ sign was attached to the wedding carriage by the scampish Princes Andrew and Edward, who were Charles’ best men. The newlyweds took the train to Hampshire, before hitting Her Majesty’s Yacht Britannia for an eleven-day cruise of the Mediterranean. Claridges . The Connaught . The Berkeley | 41
FEATURE
PRINCE ANDREW, DUKE OF YORK AND SARAH FERGUSON, 23 JULY 1986, WESTMINSTER ABBEY COURTSHIP: The Queen’s second son and Sarah Ferguson met as children and were reintroduced at a party in 1985. Diana played matchmaker by inviting Fergie to join them at Ascot, and Andrew proposed on his birthday in 1986. ENGAGEMENT PHOTOS: Outside Buckingham Palace, the happy couple – her in a cinched suit, him in a doublebreasted number – looked markedly more relaxed than Charles and Di before them. ‘We’re great friends,’ they said. (And they still are.) THE RING: Andrew presented Sarah with a Garrard engagement ring. Made from his own sketches, it bears a Burmese ruby – to match his fiancée’s flaming tresses – surrounded by diamonds. THE DRESS: British designer Lindka Cierach’s ivory duchesse satin creation, featuring heavy beading, was, Fergie later recalled, ‘an exquisite creation I’d lost twenty-six pounds to fit into.’ She couldn’t out-train Diana though; hers was a mere seventeen feet, with intertwined ‘A’ and ‘S’ initials sewn in silver beads.
THE WEDDING VENUE: It was all back to Westminster Abbey. During the rehearsal, Fergie kicked off her shoes and played a little tune on the organ for the Archbishop of Canterbury. CONTROVERSIAL MOMENT: Vanity Fair reported a moment of anxiety when ‘the royal family milled across the courtyard and ran after the carriage waving. Queen Elizabeth, like any anxious grandmother, scooped Prince William firmly from under the wheels’. THE WEDDING GANG: Elton John (of course), Michael Caine, Nancy Reagan and Estée Lauder. HONEYMOMENT: The Duke and Duchess of York headed off to Heathrow in an open carriage, replete with a papiermâché satellite dish and sign reading ‘Phone Home’, attached as a practical joke by Prince Edward. Diana and Viscount Linley, Princess Margaret’s son, had placed a king-sized teddy bear in the coach. The couple boarded a royal jet, its rear door emblazoned with ‘Just Married’, and spent their honeymoon aboard the Britannia.
“Fergie kicked off her shoes and played the organ”
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COURTSHIP: Where do we begin? The fact that she was married to someone else? The fact that he was married to someone else who just happened to be the people’s princess? The fact that they had been in love with each other since 1971? ENGAGEMENT PHOTOS: Clarence House – Charles’ private office – worked feverishly to enhance Camilla’s reputation. By the time the engagement was announced on 10 February 2005, the country had been suitably fluffed. There were, however, no formal photos. THE RING: Charles gave Camilla a ring that had been given to his grandmother, the Queen Mother, when she gave birth to her first daughter, Elizabeth. It has a square-cut diamond with three diamond baguettes on each side. THE DRESS: Camilla wore a creamcoloured dress with a wide-brimmed hat for the civil part of her wedding. For the blessing she wore a floor-length embroidered pale blue and gold coat over a matching chiffon gown, and a bold spray of golden feathers. THE WEDDING VENUE: Windsor Guildhall (the civil service) and St George’s Chapel at Castle Windsor (the blessing). CONTROVERSIAL MOMENT: The Queen and The Duke of Edinburgh did not attend the civil ceremony but were at the blessing. There, Charles and Camilla joined the congregation in reading the strongest act of penitence from the Book of Common Prayer: ‘We acknowledge and bewail our manifold sins and wickedness, which we, from time to time, most grievously have committed.’ Ouch. THE WEDDING GANG: Trudie Styler, Valentino and Jilly Cooper were among the guests. The Queen opened her speech by announcing the winner of that day’s Grand National. Naturally. HONEYMOMENT: The pair got into a Bentley whose windscreen had been spray painted with ‘Prince’ and ‘Duchess’ by William and Harry.
IMAGES: TRINITY MIRROR / MIRRORPIX / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO. ALASTAIR GRANT/AFP/GETTY IMAGES. ANDY MYATT / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO
CHARLES, PRINCE OF WALES AND CAMILLA PARKER BOWLES, 9 APRIL 2005, WINDSOR
PRINCE WILLIAM AND CATHERINE MIDDLETON, 29 APRIL 2011, WESTMINSTER ABBEY COURTSHIP: William fell for Kate Middleton as she walked the catwalk of the St Andrews Fashion Show in a state of almost undress in 2002. The university students had a minor blip but otherwise this true love has run relatively smoothly. ENGAGEMENT PHOTOS: Diana’s favourite, Mario Testino, took the pictures. Then there was the engagement interview with Tom Bradby, starring the Issa dress that launched a thousand copycats (unprepared for the publicity, Issa couldn’t meet the demand and folded in 2015). THE RING: William presented his fiancée with his mother’s Garrard sapphire. THE DRESS: A gorgeous tailored confection by Sarah Burton, the creative director of Alexander McQueen. ‘I had no idea it would be as big as it was,’ Burton told The New York Times. ‘Only the night before, seeing all the photographers outside the abbey, did I think, “Oh my God. This is massive.”’
THE WEDDING VENUE: After the customary Abbey brouhaha, they all skipped back to Buckingham Palace for the wedding breakfast. In the evening, the Prince of Wales gave a private dinner, followed by dancing. Ellie Goulding sang ‘Your Song’ for the couple’s first dance and they partied until 3am.
“The flower girl launched a thousand memes as she blocked her ears on the balcony”
THE WEDDING GANG: Alongside the usual foreign dignitaries were the Beckhams, Guy Ritchie, Elton John (of course), Rowan Atkinson and poor old Tara Palmer-Tomkinson. HONEYMOMENT: Prince William promptly returned to his work as a searchand-rescue pilot. Poor them. Oh, hang on, dry your tears – a week later they departed for ten days in the Seychelles. M @emiliemcmeekan. Emilie McMeekan is the co-founder of The Midult
CONTROVERSIAL MOMENT: There was the slightly overwhelmed flower girl, Grace van Cutsem, who launched a thousand memes when she blocked her ears on the palace balcony during the air display. And Pippa Middleton almost stole her sister’s thunder with a perfect posterior, minxy in multibuttoned McQueen. Claridges . The Connaught . The Berkeley | 43
TRAVEL
Broughton Hall, Yorkshire
ESCAPE TO THE COUNTRY WHEN ONE IS TIRED OF CITY LIFE, THERE’S NOTHING BETTER THAN ESCAPING TO THE ROLLING HILLS OF THE ENGLISH COUNTRYSIDE. WE VISIT THREE OF THE FINEST ESTATES, AVAILABLE FOR PARTIES AND WEEKEND FROLICS By Elle Blakeman
TRAVEL
BROUGHTON HALL, YORKSHIRE
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“The Estate is for fabulous house parties and people enjoying it in droves” adding another antique or sculpture, he has plumped for building the smart wellbeing centre – a place ‘for those who have misplaced their sense of peace in this technological whirlwind of a twenty-first century’... that’s most of us then. ‘I wanted to bring back some new thinking for the Estate, rather than new artwork for the home,’ he explains. Completed this spring, Avalon fits the Estate perfectly, nestled next to a walled garden that fed the family and community during wartime. Floor-toceiling windows show off the rolling hills and leafy oak trees that surround it. ‘I love the idea of our guests enjoying a night of raucous fun in the great hall,’ Tempest enthuses, ‘followed by a relaxing day at Avalon doing yoga or sound healing, or taking in a spot of wild swimming –
From top left: the green drawing room, the dining room, the golden bathroom, entrance to red drawing room, the 16th-century wine cellar
IMAGES: COURTESY OF BROUGHTON HALL. COURTESY OF AYNHOE PARK DAVE BENETT/GETTY IMAGES FOR UNICEF UK
The closest you’ll get to playing Downton Abbey with your family, this grand, 3,000acre Estate has been in the Tempest family for thirty-two generations; it was gifted to Sir Roger Tempest in the aftermath of William the Conqueror’s invasion in 1066 (how’s that for heritage?). Today – under the stewardship of another Roger Tempest, who calls himself ‘this generation’s custodian’ – the Estate is thriving. The house has been renovated to award-winning standard, wild gardens grow among the ancient parkland and a new wellbeing centre, Avalon, offers everything from Ayurveda and sound healing to treatments around a fire temple. It is also, happily, available to hire exclusively, meaning that you can embrace your inner Lord Grantham and generously open ‘your’ home – complete with seventeen elegant bedrooms and (for those who don’t quite make the cut) several charming Estate holiday cottages – for a grand dinner, party or retreat that will put the city to shame. Despite the priceless art (‘There’s usually a Poussin there but it’s on a world tour, I’m afraid’), all of it collected by his ancestors, Tempest is comfortable opening his home. ‘People are very good actually,’ he says. ‘You could worry about the Old Masters or the silk-lined walls, but actually the people taking over the hall take great pride in those things. Also, it’s what the Estate is for – fabulous house parties and people enjoying it in droves. I always stay at Claridge’s when I’m in London and consider Broughton Hall to be the Claridge’s of the countryside.’ Each generation has added their own touches – often pieces brought back from exotic travels. Today’s custodian is no different; however, rather than
or just lolling around in the outdoor/ indoor pool or floatation tank.’ Quite the modern morning-after cure. WHAT TO PACK: Hunter wellies and a green Burberry trench – the older the better – for the day; long, floaty Emilia Wickstead and Erdem dresses for the evening. WHAT TO SAY HERE: ‘Fancy a dip in the floatation tank?’ WHAT NOT TO SAY HERE: ‘Goodness, it’s cold up north.’ MUST DO: Arrange a clay-pigeon shoot or take a Land Rover out to bash around the grounds a bit. A decompressing yoga or meditation class at Avalon is well worth a try; but, for the less spiritually minded, the outdoor pool will suffice. WHO GOES: Prince Charles, Ed Sheeran, Julian Fellowes, royal families around the world.
THINGS TO DO Brontë Parsonage Museum Once home to the literary sisters, this museum offers exhibitions, talks and workshops about the Brontës’ famous works. bronte.org.uk Salts Mill This former textile mill is now a striking art gallery. It currently houses a huge collection of works by the locally born David Hockney. saltsmill.org.uk Skipton Castle Renowned for withstanding a threeyear siege during the Civil War, this 900-year-old castle remains one of the best-preserved medieval castles in England. skiptoncastle.co.uk
Above: The entrance to Aynhoe Park. Right: from left Olivia Grant, Sarah Ann Macklin, Kelly Eastwood and Rosanna Falconer attend Unicef ’s Halloween at Aynhoe Park in 2017
AYNHOE PARK, OXFORDSHIRE If indulgence is the aim of your weekend jaunt, you and a group of up-for-anything friends should be hurtling up the M40 as we speak. Destination: Aynhoe Park. It may be a Grade II-listed, seventeenth-century country house with Capability Browndesigned grounds, but its USP is the fantastical and eclectic interiors – think a stuffed polar bear in flying goggles – courtesy of husband-and-wife owners James Perkins and Sophie Taylor, and their three children. While they live here year-round, it can be rented on select weekends, which means you could host your next party here. But act fast, because Aynhoe Park has become a party haven for the jetset. Jade Jagger got married on the grounds, Grayson Perry has filmed a documentary in the house and Kate Moss is something of a regular. Last year, Oasis star Noel Gallagher hosted a Narcos-themed fiftieth party, whose guests included Michael Fassbender, Bob Geldof and the Stone Roses. Madonna gatecrashed (‘Who invited you?’ was Gallagher’s reported response), Bono read a poem and Poppy Delevingne spent the night swinging on a giant disco ball in the garden. We’re not surprised. After all, a house in which a floating giraffe, stuffed flamingos, ostrich-feather lamps and a giant unicorn sculpture sit beside classic Greek and
“‘Who invited you?’ was Noel Gallagher’s reported response to Madonna” Roman-style sculptures and priceless paintings is simply asking for mischief. That said, don’t get too attached to anything: you may visit once and see certain pieces, only to return a year later and find them replaced. James and Sophie display their favourite pieces, but revolve and retire them when they see fit – one former Aynhoe piece was bought by artist Jeff Koons. In keeping with the quirky aesthetic, bedrooms are peppered with Dr. Who ornaments, while globes, candelabras and fossils are scattered around. As with the rest of the house, expensive modern artwork is perfectly intermingled with Claridges . The Connaught . The Berkeley | 47
TRAVEL
Clockwise from left: the dining room with assorted taxidermy; owners James Perkins and Sophie Taylor attend Unicef ’s Halloween at Aynhoe Park in 2017; Chloe Delevingne and Edward Grant at Unicef ’s Halloween at Aynhoe Park; one of the house’s bathrooms
Clockwise from left: Sibton Park from across the serpentine lake, the outdoor dining terrace, the dining room and a bedroom at Sibton Park
“Bedrooms are peppered with fossils, Dr. Who ornaments and candelabras”
WHAT TO PACK: A Halston jumpsuit, Stephen Webster jewellery and Nurofen. WHAT TO SAY: ‘Is that a Sol LeWitt?’ WHAT NOT TO SAY: ‘I think I broke the dodo skeleton.’ MUST DO: Spy on the neighbours. It’s a highly glamorous local community, with the Camerons and the Beckhams nearby. WHO GOES: Partygoers from around the world, including Stella McCartney, Liv Tyler and Russell Brand. 48 | Claridges . The Connaught . The Berkeley
THINGS TO DO Soho Farmhouse The jetset’s favourite rural-chic hotspot, Soho Farmhouse is just ten minutes away. From the milk floats that ferry you to and fro, to the Cowshed massages and Japanese dining, everything is impeccable. sohofarmhouse.com Blenheim Palace A World Heritage Site, this impressive stately home is where Winston Churchill was born and is the current home of the twelfth Duke of Marlborough. Tour the state rooms and private apartments, walk one of the stunning trails (the formal gardens are not to be missed) and take a break at the on-site Oxfordshire Pantry. blenheimpalace.com Silverstone Race Circuit A thoroughly British fixture. Go for a Driving Experience adventure or take a behind-the-scenes tour. silverstone.co.uk
IMAGES: COURTESY OF AYNHOE PARK DAVE BENETT/GETTY IMAGES FOR UNICEF UK. COURTESY OF WILDERNESS RESERVE
neo-classical furniture. But lest you fret it feels more museum than home, we hear the four-poster beds are super-comfortable and the freestanding baths are divine. Described by The Times as ‘a kind of Downton-meets-Wonderland’, Aynhoe isn’t easy to maintain – apparently, staff spend quite some time cleaning lipstick from the giant Hercules statue in the stairway (the less said about that the better). Nor is it cheap to run: there are 288 windows and the house requires 1,100 light bulbs. Thankfully the electricity bills aren’t your problem: you can simply breeze in, throw a Gatsby-esque party and head back to the city with hazy memories and scandalous photos.
WILDERNESS RESERVE, SUFFOLK Arrive by train (it’s two hours from Liverpool Street to nearby Darsham) and you’ll be greeted by a vintage green Rolls Royce, handed a gin and tonic in a cutcrystal glass and whisked to the 5,000-acre estate before the ice has melted. The other option is to land a helicopter directly in the parkland near the manor house. Located on a picturesque private estate, the Wilderness Reserve allows you to rent a range of properties, from a manor house to a barn. When Jon Hunt – founder of the Foxtons estate agency – purchased the property, he worked with British landscape architect Kim Wilkie to carry out Capability Brown’s unfulfilled master plan for the area. To do so, Hunt had 800,000 trees planted, restored a lake and developed the parkland and woods. Take a stroll, but don’t expect Wilderness to mean actual wilderness – everything here is thought out and manicured. Accomodation varies: those wanting to shut out the world for a while can head for the thatched former forester’s home (be warned, it has no TV), while those wanting to invite the world over for a party should go straight to Sibton Park, where Alexa Chung held her thirty-second birthday. Designed by architect Decimus Burton, it has twelve double bedrooms, gorgeous 1820s Chinese wallpaper in the drawing room and antique furniture and chandeliers. Wellies are provided. A great deal of thought has been put
into sustainable energy and restoration. A former flower and vegetable garden has been converted into a home across three glasshouses. Interiors are cosy, with muted tones, exposed brick, underfloor heating and colourful cushions. Make time for the roll-top baths, cinema and games room. You’ll dine well here, and requesting a chef for your stay is recommended. Food is seasonal and can be anything from homestyle cooking to fine dining: think organic vegetables from the garden, sustainable fish and hand-reared meats (the braised pork belly is always a hit). Should you wish to be more hands-on, you’ll find the kitchen stocked with a thoughtfully curated hamper of breads, charcuterie and local cheeses, and you can phone ahead for a Waitrose delivery. WHAT TO PACK: Barbour jacket, Silou yoga clothes for morning classes, a cashmere pashmina for outdoor dining. WHAT TO SAY HERE: ‘We’ve brought the children and the dogs.’ WHAT NOT TO SAY HERE: ‘I can’t stand estate agents.’ MUST DO: Cycle around the estate on smart green Pashley bikes, then paddleboard on the reserve. For evening entertainment, host your very own murder mystery party, complete with actors. WHO GOES: Those who want to leave London, but only just. Daisy Lowe and Jack Guinness are both big fans. M
THINGS TO DO Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty As the name implies, this is a stunning stretch – 150 square miles in fact – of woodlands, estuaries, wetlands, historic towns and shingle beaches. www.suffolkcoastandheaths.org Cold War Museum Suffolk has deep roots with aviation and air bases, so this museum is a gem for those interested in military history. It spans the years from World War II to 1993, when the Bentwaters airfield closed. bcwm.org.uk Coastal Voyager Enjoy a thirty-minute tour around Solebay, off the coast of Southwold, on an adrenaline-inducing 400hp vessel. You can charter the whole boat for larger groups, or skipper the nine-metre boat yourself. coastalvoyager.co.uk
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ART
The Royal Academy’s northfacing entrance, Burlington Gardens. Below: Lloyd Dorfman, Farshid Moussavi, Kate Goodwin, Sir David Chipperfield and Alan Stanton at the Royal Academy
SPARKS WILL FLY ARTEMISIA GENTILESCHI (Rome, 1593-1652/53, Naples) Portrait of a Gentleman 1630-35, signed with initials in the silver trinkets worn around the sitter’s neck, oil on canvas, 204.5 x 109.2 cm
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THE ROYAL ACADEMY’S NORTH-FACING ENTRANCE, BURLINGTON GARDENS BY HAYES DAVIDSON, TRISTAN FEWINGS/GETTY IMAGES FOR ROYAL ACADEMY OF ARTS
With Grayson Perry helming this year’s summer show, the Royal Academy of Arts’ 250th birthday celebrations promise to go with a bang. Louisa Buck reports
lovely combination of long tradition and idiosyncrasy,’ marvels multimedia artist Grayson Perry of the Royal Academy of Arts. ‘It has a broad spread that goes from Bohemia to the Palace.’ With grand Piccadilly premises overseen by a monumental bronze statue of its first president, eighteenth century painter Sir Joshua Reynolds, the Royal Academy (RA) is the epitome of the British art establishment – and this year it celebrates its 250th birthday. On 10 December 1768, King George III was presented with a petition signed by thirty-six
artists and architects, asking ‘to establish a society for promoting the arts of design’. They also requested an annual exhibition of contemporary artists and a school of design. The King said yes to all three – and so the Royal Academy, its schools (Britain’s first art school) and its Summer Exhibition were born. Two hundred and fifty years on, the trio continue to flourish. The RA is governed by eighty elected academicians including painters David Hockney and Tracey Emin, sculptor Anish Kapoor and architects Norman Foster and Richard Rogers. The annual Summer Exhibition is the world’s largest open-submission contemporary art show, and the RA’s prestigious school has Claridges . The Connaught . The Berkeley | 51
ART
Cross-section of the Royal Academy’s site in 2018
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“‘It has a broad spread that goes from Bohemia to the Palace’ says Grayson Perry, adding that he plans a ‘room of fun’ for this year” da Vinci’s The Last Supper and the Taddei Tondo, Michelangelo’s only marble sculpture in this country. For much of the twentieth century, the RA was dismissed by radical artists as an old-fashioned irrelevance, but it has more recently attracted some of today’s highest profile and most progressive artists – and the academy’s heritage is more an attraction than a deterrent. ‘It’s a complex, archaic place that’s changing a lot,’ says sculptor Conrad Shawcross – who, at forty, is currently the youngest of the academicians. ‘There’s a progressive, new energy and a shift back to what it was when it started – an epicentre of conversation and ideas.’ Fellow sculptor and academician Cornelia Parker agrees: ‘It’s less of an old boy’s club and there are more varied voices.’ Grayson Perry, proud to be an academician, regards the RA as ‘a funny intersection where there are a lot of chances for sparks to fly at all levels, which I like.’ Sparks certainly promise to fly at this year’s Summer Exhibition, which Perry is coordinating under the banner of ‘Art Made Now’, with all submissions to be created as recently as possible. ‘I want to champion the democracy of the exhibition and show off the diversity of art being made in this moment,’ he declares, adding that he plans a ‘room of fun’ and that the selection
committee ‘will look favourably on artworks that we find amusing’. A complementary historical show – ‘The Great Spectacle’ – will trace 250 years of summer show highlights. Works by past academicians will abut contemporary counterparts by notables such as painters Michael Craig-Martin, Wolfgang Tillmans and Tracey Emin. Another eagerly awaited show for the anniversary year is devoted to new work by the painter and academician Tacita Dean. This inaugurates a new suite of galleries in Burlington House with an exploration of landscape in its broadest sense; from found objects, and drawings on blackboard and slate, to an experimental 35mm film that mixes places, geologies and seasons into a single image. The main Burlington House galleries are renowned as the home of the blockbuster. The birthday celebrations were ushered in with a dazzling reunion of masterpieces from the collection of Charles 1 and will be brought to a grand finale with the first survey of Oceanic art to be held in the United Kingdom. For 1768 – the year of the academy’s founding – is also the date that Captain James Cook set sail on HMS Endeavour to explore the south Pacific. Framed by this fêted voyage, ‘Oceania’ will offer gather work from the vast region, uniting the most ancient of artefacts with the latest in digital technology. It also explores the often troubled themes of voyaging, place-making and encounter. Founded to create, nurture and display the very best art, the RA has managed to move with the times while preserving the best of its traditions, and to play to its strengths without being nostalgic. Whether presenting projects by students, Renaissance masterpieces or Tacita Dean’s collection of four leaf clovers, the academy is, as Tim Marlow declares, ‘a place where anything is possible.’ M Louisa Buck is a leading British art critic and contemporary art correspondent for The Art Newspaper
Clockwise from above: the Lecture Theatre in 2018, Architecture Studio in 2018, Summer Exhibition 2018 Committee, Tacita Dean working on The Montafon Letter, Los Angeles, 2017, Burlington Gardens Galleries in 2018, Conservation of the Farnese Hercules plaster cast, the deinstallation of The Last Supper at Magdalen College, Oxford
IMAGE CREDITS: © HAYES DAVIDSON, DAVID CHIPPERFIELD ARCHITECTS, PHOTO: FREDRIK NILSEN STUDIO ARTWORK: © COURTESY THE ARTIST; FRITH STREET GALLERY, LONDON AND MARIAN GOODMAN GALLERY, © ROYAL ACADEMY OF ARTS, LONDON; PHOTO: DAVID PARRY, TRISTAN FEWINGS/GETTY IMAGES FOR ROYAL ACADEMY OF ARTS
trained some of the UK’s finest, from William Blake to 2013 Turner Prize nominee Lynette Yiadom-Boakye. It is also Europe’s only art school not to charge tuition fees. These different facets are showcased in a major development and refurbishment that the RA is unveiling to mark its anniversary. Designed by architect and academician Sir David Chipperfield, the scheme reveals the varied activities across what had become a chaotic, two-acre site. For the first time, a bridge links the RA’s two main historic buildings: Burlington House on Piccadilly and the nineteenth-century former Museum of Mankind, behind it to the north at 6 Burlington Gardens. Along the way, nooks and crannies are exposed and new exhibition spaces and facilities generated; described by Chipperfield as ‘an architectural solution embedded in the place itself’. Once buried in the bowels of the building, the school has been integrated into the new development and made accessible through a Mayfair entrance on Burlington Gardens. ‘The RA has become the most animated cultural campus in central London,’ says artistic director Tim Marlow. ‘We’ve always been this place for learning and debate, but now parts of the academy will be revealed as never before. It will be this hive of activity.’ However, he adds, ‘certain things will still go on behind closed doors – the students won’t be in a goldfish bowl.’ Royal Academicians past and present are a constant throughout the new-look Academy. Among its early members were great names of eighteenth and nineteenth-century British art, such as Thomas Gainsborough, John Constable and JMW Turner. All are represented in another once hidden jewel in the Academy’s crown: its extraordinary permanent collection of bequeathed works, which now has a dedicated gallery. The inaugural display will include highlights from these first prominent academicians, alongside masterpieces given over the years to the teaching collection; notably an near full-size, sixteenth-century copy of Leonardo
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ART
ART
TATE ARTIST TRUSTEE, ROYAL ACADEMICIAN AND FORMER TUTOR TO THE YBA’S, SIR MICHAEL CRAIG-MARTIN IS A SERIOUS FORCE ON THE BRITISH ART SCENE. AS HIS NEW SCULPTURE IS UNVEILED OUTSIDE THE CONNAUGHT, WE MEET THE ARTIST HIMSELF TO TALK ILLUSION, FAMILIARITY AND LIFE AFTER KNIGHTHOOD
By Louisa Buck
ir Michael Craig-Martin has been essential in shaping the British art world as we now know it. From the beginning he has investigated how and why we look at things: an early conceptual piece from1973 exhibited a glass of water under the title An Oak Tree. Craig-Martin is also widely renowned as an influential teacher, most notably during his period at Goldsmith’s College where his students included Damien Hirst and the so-called Young British Artists who made such a significant impact on the art scene of 1990s. As a Tate artist trustee Craig-Martin also played an important role in the development and opening of Tate Modern. These days, however, he concentrates on making art. His blue steel sculpture of a closed pair of scissors currently standing to attention outside the main entrance of The Connaught, kindly on loan from the Gagosian Gallery, is the latest in the long line of works that present outlined depictions of the most familiar objects that populate our lives. Deceptively simple, these everyday objects form the starting
WORD PLAY
point for his explorations into the nature of art and representation. L: Why scissors ? M: I’m always trying to make something which confronts you in such an immediate way that you are physically engaged with it. What I like about the scissors is that it is more or less human size, it’s like confronting a person. Mount Street is very elegant and there are many dressmaking shops all around so I thought that scissors were not inappropriate for the circumstances. L: Although it’s a steel sculpture it also looks like a drawing in space. M: My sculptures are not really sculptures of objects in the normal sense because their illusionality is two – not three – dimensional illusionality. So here it’s actually a sculpture of a drawing of a scissors rather than a sculpture of a scissors. If you look at the sculpture from the side on it just disappears into a single line 25mm wide. It’s about the way in which we translate things into language. This is the equivalent of a word:
Artist and Royal Academician Tracey Emin unveils her largest ever text-based work at St Pancras Station in April, for the sixth year of the Terrace Wires commission. The twenty-metre I Want My Time With You (2018) will be suspended above the Grand Terrace and remain on display until the end of the year. ‘It is a statement that reaches out to everybody from Europe arriving into London’, says Emin. 54 | Claridges . The Connaught . The Berkeley
Prize lots
THE MOST EXCITING SALES COMING TO MAYFAIR’S AUCTION HOUSES THIS SEASON
Bonhams: Wassenaar Zoo – A Dutch Private Library, 30 May Boasting more than 2,400 volumes, this library was assembled in the 1950s to complement the work of Wassenaar Zoo. One highlight is a near-complete run of ornithologist John Gould’s folios.
Daniel Giraud Elliot, Birds of Paradise, first edition, 1873
Maha Malluh. Food for Thought – Assabeel, 2012
Phillips: Evening & Day Editions, 7 June Now celebrating ten years of record-breaking sales, Phillips continues to set the standard for presenting original artist prints and multiples. This sale will bring together works by the most significant artists of the 20th and 21st centuries. Featuring Roy Lichtenstein, Andy Warhol, Jeff Koons and Harland Miller to name but a few.
IMAGES: COURTESY OF CHRISTIE’S, BONHAMS, SOTHEBY’S AND PHILLIPS AUCTION HOUSE
SHARP OBJECTS
just as the word ‘scissors’ is not a scissors, so an image of a scissors is not a scissors either. L: How do you select what to depict? There are surely an infinite number of objects we use to furnish our world... M: You’d be surprised. I thought there were far more than there actually are. There are of course an infinite number of things, but most are variations on types. I never draw anything that isn’t instantly recognisable and if an object goes out of use such as the tape cassette I stop using it because I’m not trying to conjure nostalgia, I’m trying to conjure immediacy. I need the viewer to look at it and recognise it without realising that they are recognising it. Of all the objects there are two kinds I’ve discovered that have the most infinite variety: one is chairs and the other is women’s shoes! L: What marked out Damien Hirst and his contemporaries from the other students that you taught over the years ? M:There was a chemistry between them as a group which was very unusual. They were very talented but also very focused. They were all very conscious of what each other were doing and they raised each other’s game – so that if one of them did something really terrific, it irked the other ones to try to match it. There was a very healthy competition and they were ambitious, although none of them ever expected the kind of success that they ultimately enjoyed. L: You were born in Ireland, grew up in America and studied at Yale before coming to London in 1966. Was this early outsider’s view helpful? M: Because my education and experience had been so different, I brought something different to the table. I wasn’t a true foreigner but I was coming to a place where I had not grown up and I was able to contribute through my difference. And that’s what immigrants do. Immigrants should be treasured because what they do is introduce into the home culture things that would otherwise not occur. L: As a knight and a Royal Academician you are now part of the establishment! M: It’s nice to be honoured. But I find the knighthood strange because while every country gives honours, it’s only in Britain that it means that you change your name. M
IMAGES: LEON NEAL/AFP/GETTY IMAGES. COURTESY OF SAM LANE
Sir Michael Craig-Martin stands beneath his work Untitled (Watch)
Andy Warhol, Mick Jagger, 1972
Sotheby’s: 20th Century Art – Middle East, 24 April Held during the Orientalist and Middle Eastern Art week at Sotheby’s, this sale will feature some of the most rare and sought-after artists, from the modern era to the contemporary period. Highlights include record-breaking artists and exceptional works by Bahman Mohasses, Mahmoud Said and Mayo.
Hermès x Tom Sachs Kelly handbag, estimate £20,000£30,000
Christie’s: Handbags & Accessories, 12 June From the exotic and precious to vintage varieties and sought-after limited editions, there is plenty to keep the serious fashion investor enthralled at this sale. The top lot is the ‘undisputed most valuable bag in the world’: a Himalaya Birkin with white gold and diamond hardwear. M Claridges . The Connaught . The Berkeley | 55
DESIGN
Light touch
Hushed calm is the hallmark of The Berkeley’s new Pavilion Suites. Jonathan Bell meets designer André Fu
hey’re private but open; there’s colour but no colour,’ explains acclaimed architect André Fu of The Berkeley’s newest spaces. ‘We had a desire to embrace a degree of modern Britishness.’ Created as part of the hotel’s refurbishment by Rogers Stirk + Harbour, and designed by the Hong Kong-based Fu, the two Pavilion Suites offer guests secluded spaces and spectacular views. For Fu, the project has been an opportunity to explore craft and character on a grand scale. ‘When we launched the Opus Suite at The Berkeley in 2012, it was the biggest in the Maybourne family,’ he recalls. ‘After that, there was always the desire to push the boundaries just that bit further – The Berkeley is about innovation.’ The new suites sit atop the hotel’s southern façade, overlooking Belgravia. ‘There were about 1,200 square feet of terraces and private gardens here,’ Fu says, indicating the outdoor space from within the calm retreat of the Grand Pavilion. ‘The plan was to erect freestanding glass pavilions that give the terrace a new spatial organisation and make it a very distinct architectural form.’ ‘All designers love the concept of a glass house – it’s an aspirational way of life. Here we have a full-height glass space, surrounded by beautiful scenery and embracing the indoor/outdoor space.’ Handcrafted and custom-made elements abound, from oak wall panels to a screen made of gold leaf between layers of glass. ‘It gives that romantic impression of the rain falling on the glass,’ Fu explains. Wall coverings of hand-painted silk, with highlighted embroidery, are paired with curated art, including sculptures by Conrad Shawcross, bold abstract prints by Lebanese 56 | Claridges . The Connaught . The Berkeley
artist and poet Etel Adnan, and lithographs by the late Agnes Martin. The new suites, says Fu, ‘share a common goal of comfort. My work has been described as relaxed luxury – a retreat from the hustle and bustle of London.’ The views certainly help, bestowing a sense of space, big skies and the capital’s eclectic architectural history, not to mention glimpses of verdant Hyde Park. The Crescent Pavilion impresses with its view of St Paul’s Knightsbridge, a fine example of Victorian church design. Of the two, Fu suggests the Grand Pavilion is more intimate, albeit with ‘a dining table for six to eight, overlooking a fire pit with cypress trees.’ The Grand Pavilion’s glazed element incorporates a living room and a master bedroom. ‘You know you’ve arrived in London when you push a button, the curtains open and the city is laid out before you,’ says Fu. His signature attention to detail is everywhere, especially in the subtle hints of colour: ‘There is an undertone of greyish emerald in both suites. In the Grand Pavilion it’s accentuated with dusty burgundy – you read the two tones in the chairs and carpets.’ The suites also have dedicated bar areas; you can request one of the Blue Bar’s acclaimed mixologists to serve at your private soiree. Happily, for a city as busy as London, there’s a hush in The Berkeley’s newest spaces, even on a blustery day. ‘The environment is intended to be almost silent,’ says Fu. ‘These suites are about going back to the core notion of hospitality. In our digital age, things are moving so fast. Here, you can truly switch off.’ M Jonathan Bell writes about architecture and design for Wallpaper, Blueprint, and Grafik. His recent books include The Transformable House, Carchitecture, and Penthouse Living
From top: the terrace of the new Grand Pavilion Suite; the Crescent Pavilion Suite and the living room of the Grand Pavilion Suite. Opposite: André Fu photographed in the new Crescent Pavilion
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FOOD & DRINK
10 things you didn’t know about The Connaught Bar
Dive in
AS THE MULTI-AWARD-WINNING CONNAUGHT BAR CELEBRATES A DECADE OF SERVING WITH STYLE, WE BRING YOU 10 FACTS ABOUT LONDON’S MOST BEWITCHING BAR
1.
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The bar was designed by the late David Collins. Recognising the ceremony of the now-famous martini trolley, Collins included a ‘runway’ in his designs, bringing a sense of occasion to the martini experience.
During WWII, the bar was presided over by the imperturbable Betty, who was known all over London for her sharp wit, no-nonsense attitude and ‘Connaught Pick Me Up’ – a mix of champagne, egg and quince liqueur.
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The glasswear is handmade for The Connaught Bar. Eagle-eyed visitors will notice that the curved etchings mirror the art deco markings on the bar itself.
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In 2014, the Connaught Bar invited the legendary Colin Field and his team from The Ritz Paris Bar Hemingway to join them for a week of cocktails, fun and good-humoured rivalry.
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Head of Mixology Agostino Perrone will only use lemons from the Amalfi coast.
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The bar itself dates back to 1879 when it was known as the American Bar. The wood panelling and ceiling details remain from this time.
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9.
The famous Connaught martini trolley is called into action over 50 times a day, making around 18,300 martinis a year.
From top: Head of Mixology Agostino Perrone; ice-carving by hand; the Fleurissimo cocktail; the M10 camera, Leica; the Globetrotter cocktail
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As well as being a celebrated mixologist, Agostino Perrone is also an award-winning photographer. M
IMAGES: JOHN CAREY, COURTESY OF LEICA
Shush... one of the most famous 007s loves a lavender Connaught martini.
The Connaught Bar has won at least one award every year. It is also the only bar to have been awarded ‘World’s Best Cocktail Bar’ twice at the prestigious Tales of The Cocktails awards.
5.
Challenge your senses and treat your taste buds at The Berkeley’s immersive bar experience Out Of The Blue. By Frankie McCoy
small jewel box of a room, as unassuming as can be, lies within The Berkeley. You enter through inconspicuous, unmarked doors. Inside, however, awaits a cacophony of fruit, a cloud of brioche, a deluge of bubbles. Fruits explode, ice cracks cleanly and the juicy scent of citrus washes around you. And, as with all the best things in life, this sensory overload is accompanied by cocktails. Welcome to Out Of The Blue: an immersive mixology experience by The Berkeley’s spellbinding Blue Bar. According to creator Daniel Baernreuther, most of us write off at least half of a drinks menu because of past experience. A dreadful gin concoction or a sickly sweet Mai Tai can put us off their constituents for life. The aim of Out Of The Blue is to challenge and retune our imbibing habits, for taste is about more than flavour. A glass of Chablis almost certainly tastes better at sundown on a terrace in Provence than it does in your friend’s kitchen. What we see, hear and smell has an incalculable effect on that final taste. ‘When you remove the context, you dramatically change the flavour,’ explains Baernreuther, who encourages cocktail lovers
“They call it ‘cocktail escapism’. You might call it a sensory riot” to shake off their drinking shackles. We all have favourites; shunning rum for gin, perhaps, or fruity drinks for sour. Out Of The Blue – a journey through innovative cocktails in surroundings that envelop the senses – enables whisky-haters and coconutdeniers to discover and enjoy drinks they would never normally order. Baernreuther calls it ‘cocktail escapism’. You might call it an intoxicating, sensory riot. Denied normal visual cues like garnish or menu descriptions, we are blank canvases. Hangovers of the past, begone. Over the course of an hour, four carefully crafted cocktails are served in opaque glasses without description, making it impossible to guess their contents from sight alone. Instead there are sensory clues – sounds and smells
pumped into the room and visuals projected on the walls. Hints of certain ingredients appear on the screen around us that I swear change the flavour of what we are drinking. It’s a reminder to never underestimate the power of suggestion. Puzzling over the flavours is joyous, as is the delight when ingredients are revealed and guesses proved correct. Surprises abound and ingredients that I previous swore a lifelong aversion to are slipped unknowingly into a drink I find myself enjoying enormously. The result may not have banished my phobia entirely, but I would definitely give it another shot. Likewise certain spirits that I had written off as too potent to touch have become caramel-light easy to sip all night. Dangerous knowledge to acquire. Fizzing with glee and new found expertise, we head straight to the Blue Bar – and experiment with the previously neglected in our brave, new, post-Out Of The Blue world. M Available in one-hour slots between 5.30pm and 11pm. £200 for up to four guests, to experience privately. For reservations, please email dining@the-berkeley.co.uk. @franklymccoy. Frankie McCoy is a reporter for the London Evening Standard Claridges . The Connaught . The Berkeley | 59
HOTEL
From left: Gian Balbido, commis chef; Joe Penrose, demi chef de partie; Ellie Parker, apprentice; Yago Doamo, senior sous chef; Guillermo Caballero, sous chef, George Sobas commis chef, all at Claridge’s
The Visionaries WHAT IS LONDON, OR HER BEST HOTELS, WITHOUT AFTERNOON TEA? HERE, WE TAKE A RARE LOOK AT THOSE FAMOUS PASTRY KITCHENS TO CAPTURE THE MAGIC AND CREATIVITY BEHIND THE SCENES
Photography by Sam Barker
“Claridge’s has become famous for our doughnut trolley which makes an appearance at special events. Continuing the theme, we have recently created a ‘Choux Bun’ trolley, complete with choux swans!” – Yago
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HOTEL
“I love the constant change and challenge that comes from working in the pastry kitchen. I also love the amazing smell of bread baking first thing in the morning” – Nicolas
From left: Benoit Defait, sous chef, Nicolas Rouzaud, head pastry chef, Benoit Dutreige, sous chef all at The Connaught
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HOTEL
From left: Jessica Huang, junior sous chef; Mourad Khiat, head pastry chef; Nicola Muriani, demi chef de partie, all at The Berkeley
“I love watching the latest shows hit the catwalk and planning our next season of Prêt-à-Portea. I start to see ideas come to life, turning chiffon into choux and sweeping shades of colour into sugar’ – Mourad
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Look smart
FASHION
RONALD PHILLIPS FINE ANTIQUE ENGLISH FURNITURE
MAYFAIR HAS ALWAYS WELCOMED THE STYLISH GENTLEMAN. HERE, WE EXPLORE THE LATEST OFFERINGS By Charlotte Pasha
ROYAL APPROVAL
The young Prince Charles serves as sartorial inspiration for Gieves & Hawkes’ ready-to-wear collection this season, as the heritage brand focuses on the glamour of the English summer sporting season and ‘the easy, rugged elegance of aristocrats, royals and young sporting gentlemen’. While the sportswear has focused on confident colours (polo reds and racing greens), tailoring favours the earthy checks and crisp two-piece suits often favoured by our next-in-line. gievesandhawkes.com
TROLLEY CASE, FROM A SELECTION, GLOBE-TROTTER
SLOW DOWN Fed up with ‘fast fashion’, and all the associated costs to the industry and beyond, designer Patrick Grant has launched a chic new label to champion British-made products that last from season to season. Community Clothing offers staples for men and women – including simple knits, well-cut jeans, the perfect T-shirt – combating the need for endless wardrobe refreshing. With knitwear from Scotland, jersey from Leicestershire and cashmere from Yorkshire, it’s British fashion at its finest. communityclothing.co.uk
JACKET, £109, COMMUNITY CLOTHING
HIDDEN DEPTHS Each piece of luxury handmade luggage from British brand Globe-Trotter takes over ten days to make. To celebrate the arrival of the quintessential travel brand at Fenwick of Bond Street, GlobeTrotter have created a special edition 20-inch Trolley Case in Fenwick’s iconic forest green, revealing an archive photograph of the historic Fenwick building – quite the finishing touch. fenwick.co.uk
SHIRT, £44.95, COMMUNITY CLOTHING
£298, ACQUA DI PARMA
A GEORGE II PARCEL GILT SIDE TABLE ATTRIBUTED TO WILLIAM KENT SLIM D’HERMÈS GMT, £10,800, HERMÈS
26 BRUTON STREET, LONDON W1J 6QL +44 (0)207 493 2341 ADVICE @ RONALDPHILLIPS.CO.UK RONALDPHILLIPSANTIQUES.COM
SLIM FIT The latest in the Slim d’Hermès watch line is a slender yet masculine addition to the collection. Featuring a sleek palladium case and an ultra-thin movement, there will be just 90 made. uk.hermes.com
£158, TOM FORD
£185, CREED
3 OF THE BEST... It’s all very intense this season in the world of fragrance. Acqua di Parma’s Note di Colonia employs green mandarin and strong bergamot, Tom Ford unveils a primal new Private Blend with stirring spices and robust woods and Creed gets inspired by Viking longships, with a new scent boasting bergamot, sandalwood and patchouli.
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FASHION
Spring to life STYLISH TRUNKS, CHIC CLUTCHES AND FINE JEWELLERY TO ENTICE THIS SEASON By Charlotte Pasha The Metropolitan Insignia Clutch by Carolina Herrera
NEW YORK TIMES
In 1981, Carolina Herrera presented her first, twenty-outfit collection to the toast of New York – including Andy Warhol, Diana Vreeland and Bianca Jagger – at the Metropolitan Club. In a tribute to those heady early days, her house has launched the Metropolitan Insignia Clutch collection, inspired by different rooms at the club. The glossy version references the Metropolitan’s chandeliers, while the hand-painted silk echoes the old-school salon – ideal accompaniments for the designer’s unashamedly glamorous gowns. carolinaherrera.com
HAT BOX BAGS, £495, ASPINAL OF LONDON
H A L F P E N N Y L O N D O N . C O M
© POMELLATO: SINCE 1967, RIZZOLI NEW YORK, 2018. PATRICK DEMARCHELIER/CONDE NAST/CONTOUR BY GETTY IMAGES
TRAVEL IN STYLE
Inspired by Murder on the Orient Express, this Aspinal of London collection pays homage to the elegance of the 1930s – think brass-trimmed trunks, crocodileprinted hat box handbags and travel accessories in camel and ivory. Artwork by Emma Shipley features on whimsical silk twill scarves, to throw on as you dash away. aspinaloflondon.com CUFF, £3,900
Alaïa in Vogue, 1990 RING, £1,475
EARRINGS, £1,625
LOVE LETTERS
SWINGING SIXTIES
Italian jewellery brand Pomellato celebrates its fiftieth anniversary with a chic coffee-table tome, Pomellato: Since 1967. Published by Rizzoli, it’s as bold and playful as any of their collections. The year in which Pomellato was founded was one of art, creativity and social revolution – and, against a backdrop of images by luminaries such as Herb Ritts, Helmut Newton and Peter Lindbergh, the book takes you on the jewellery house’s journey from the very begining. pomellato.com
Friends for almost forty years, Stephen Webster and Tracey Emin have decided to combine their very great talents. The result: a fine jewellery collection dubbed ‘I Promise to Love You’. Inspired by Emin’s art and crafted from 18-carat yellow gold, it features embellished cuffs, sweet heart-shaped pendants and pave diamond rings bearing the word ‘love’ in Emin’s own writing. traceyeminstudio.com, stephenwebster.com
POMELLATO: SINCE 1967, £59.95, RIZZOLI
ALAÏA’S ARRIVAL London is happily poised for an Alaïa invasion this summer. An exhibit dedicated to ‘couture’s rebellious outsider’ graces the Design Musuem, while the brand’s first flagship store outside Paris opens on London’s Bond Street. A favourite of supers and mortals alike, the late Azzedine Alaïa’s great skill lay in his ability to seduce both the wearer and those around her. As he said himself, ‘What else are clothes made for, if not seduction?’ Azzedine Alaïa, 139 New Bond Street, Mayfair, W1S 2TL Claridges . The Connaught . The Berkeley | 69
The lady returns
INTERVIEW
Michelle Dockery is a woman in high demand. After rising to fame as Downton Abbey’s Lady Mary, she was promptly whisked off to Hollywood. Now, after two years in the States, she returns to London and the stage. Elle Blakeman meets a star with the world at her feet
Photography by Billie Scheepers Styling by Mary-Anna Kearney
Asymmetric top, £190 and wide-leg trousers, £320, both CH Carolina Herrera. Diamond earrings and hexagonal ring, both from a selection, Jessica McCormack. Diamond knot ring, from a selection, Boodles. Heels (just seen), from a selection, Rupert Sanderson
INTERVIEW
Dress, £2,095, Roland Mouret. Diamond earrings, from a selection, Jessica McCormack. Rose gold and diamond bracelet, from a selection, Boodles
n the Linley suite at Claridge’s, Michelle Dockery stretches on a plush velvet sofa, posing for the final shot of the day. In William Vintage ruffles and Graff jewels, her make-up soft, her hair slightly undone, she looks elegant, serene and completely in keeping with her surroundings. ‘My nan,’ she declares, ‘always used to say, “You’ve got one life: dress for it.”’ Despite an early shoot, after being onstage until 11pm the previous night – Dockery is starring alongside Breaking Bad’s Bryan Cranston in the sold-out Network at the National Theatre – she is charming and warm; far from her glacial Downton Abbey incarnation. It’s the best part of eight years since Dockery brought the beautiful yet distant and uncompromising Lady Mary into our lives, and two since the final episode aired. But although she smartly circumvented being typecast – subsequently portraying a brazen con artist (Good Behavior), a hardened TV exec (Network) and a gun-toting outlaw (Godless) – to many Dockery will always be Lady Mary. ‘Downton will always be part of my life,’ she says. ‘I loved playing Mary. It was six years of my life so saying goodbye was emotional.’ The show, as if we could forget, was an unstoppable phenomenon, acquiring awards and aficionados the world over. In America, it became by far the most successful show in PBS’s forty-five-year history. Michelle Obama requested advance copies, and several members of the cast, Dockery included, earned invitations to the White House. In China, it was credited with inspiring a ‘butler boom’ and attracted an audience larger than the entire population of Britain. Here in the UK, where audiences usually favour talent shows 72 | Claridges . The Connaught . The Berkeley
and American sitcoms, we were hooked from episode one, and the three sisters – Mary, Sybil and Edith – made the front cover of the Telegraph the very next day. It was aired in 250 countries – or, as one expert put it, ‘Everywhere it is possible to license a show.’ ‘There was a buzz about it from the beginning,’ Dockery recalls. ‘Friends of mine were also reading for the script and, because it was written by Julian Fellowes, and Hugh [Bonneville] and Maggie [Dame Smith, she of the withering put-downs] were attached, it did make you sit up and think, “Wow.” ‘When we started filming, there was this feeling that we were onto something great. But you can never really tell what the reaction is going to be.’ Even the royals were Downton enthusiasts. The Queen was said to enjoy it enormously, revelling in spotting any historical inaccuracies, while the Duchess of Cambridge was such a fan that she visited the set for the final series, Prince George in tow. ‘Magical,’ recalls Dockery. ‘It was “The day the Princess came to set”.
“I like shows where women can be strong but also vulnerable; they can be likeable, unlikeable. There’s no one label” We were all so excited. She met every single person: the actors, the crew, the caterers, the drivers… She was just so gracious and made everyone feel at ease.’ Our star believes the young royals may have contributed to the success of the show outside the UK: ‘I’m sure it was no coincidence that it was around the time of the marriage of Prince William and Kate, so there was a huge royalist movement.’ It often surprises fans that Dockery was born not to the British aristocracy, but to a conventional family from London’s suburbs. She attended stage school as a child and aspired to be a dancer – evidenced on our shoot as she pirouettes along the [David] Downton Corridor in a scarlet Rejina Pyo dress, a fairytale brought to life. That column inches have been dedicated to her accent – ‘It always seems to make headlines’ – is a testament to her talent. From a strong Essex twang – auditioning to be a Von Trapp child in The Sound of Music,
she informed the director that she had ‘done lots of shows round Essex but not done nuffink up west’ (she didn’t get the part) – to the cut-glass tones of Lady Mary and now over the pond to the rhotic pronunciation of the Midwest, she inhabits each as if born to it. ‘I’m very aware of my own accent when I’m in America,’ she says. ‘You start to use their expressions. You don’t say “boot” of the car, it’s the “trunk”. Or “trash” instead of “bins”. I find myself asking, “Where’s the restroom?” when I’m back home and have to correct myself. I recently did a voiceover in a British accent. It completely threw me: I hadn’t done it in so long, I’d forgotten how to speak in a British accent. They ended up asking me to just do it American!’ Lady Mary would be horrified. Alongside fellow Downton cast members Dan Stevens and Lily James, Dockery was catapulted to international fame. She was enlisted for the lead role of Letty in Good Behavior even before Downton’s final episode aired. Two years in America followed, during which Dockery swapped British high society for a show full of sex, drugs and con-artistry. The complexity of her character meant it was love at first sight. ‘I just found her fascinating,’ she says of the role that requires constant change, wigs and accents included. One minute she’s a bad girl striving to do good, the next a reckless thief and addict, then a mother anxious to win back her son. ‘What I love about Letty is that she doesn’t apologise for who she is,’ says Dockery, relishing the character’s contradictions. ‘I like shows where women can be strong but also vulnerable; they can also be smart, funny, likeable, unlikeable; they can be mothers and wives and also deeply flawed. There’s no one label.’ Does she think such roles are increasing? ‘I’m seeing more and more interesting Claridges . The Connaught . The Berkeley | 73
INTERVIEW
Velvet jacket, £350; blouse, £295, both Beulah. Trousers with plaid detail, £545, Escada. Rose gold earrings and ring, both from a selection, David Morris
female roles come up, even in the twelve years that I’ve been an actress. In the same way that Mary was very real, which made her feel quite modern, especially in a period drama – she was a woman who changed her mind, who felt one way one minute and differently the next – I think we are seeing more real women rather than stereotypes. Of course, I’d like to see much more of it.’ Period costumes notwithstanding, her next project took the star even further from Downton: the new Western series Godless. She plays Alice, a world-weary, twice widowed woman, who finds herself providing shelter to a criminal hiding from an outlaw gang in 1884. There’s a high body count, horse riding, guns ablaze and whisky slamming – it looks terrific fun. ‘Oh, it was amazing!’ she confirms. ‘Every actor went to ‘cowboy camp’ for two weeks before we started filming, to learn horse riding and shooting and so on. It was such an experience. I learned that British riding is very different: there’s a lot more rules. Western riding is looser, but you hold the reins in one hand so you’ve got your right hand free to pull your gun out.’ Filming takes place a world away from Highclere Castle, in New Mexico. ‘It is one of the most magical places I’ve ever been to,’ she says. ‘Sometimes we would have a two-hour lightning delay and just sit and watch the storm coming in. I’d never seen anything like it. It really felt like you were there – I was on Alice’s ranch outside of the town of La Belle. It was so real, I felt like I’d been catapulted back to the 1880s. ‘I also loved going back into period costumes. My belt, for example, was from the 1880s, and slightly falling apart. You end up wondering, “Who’s worn this before?”’ Having been in the States on and off for two years, she enjoys being back in London and in the theatre where she began: ‘I loved travelling around the States but it’s nice to come home for a bit.’ What did she miss the most? ‘Bacon and digestive biscuits… Oh, and proper pubs with fires.’ M Godless is out now on Netflix 74 | Claridges . The Connaught . The Berkeley
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INTERVIEW
Jumpsuit, £950, Escada. Ring, from a selection, Jessica McCormack. Feather earrings, from a selection, Chanel. Handbag, £895, Aspinal of London. Opposite: heritage trench coat, £1,450, Burberry 76 | Claridges . The Connaught . The Berkeley
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INTERVIEW
Jumpsuit, £540, MSGM available at Browns. Diamond ring, from a selection, Boodles. Diamond cuff, from a selection, Graff
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FASHION
New romantic
Fashion designer Simone Rocha photographed in her studio
Since her first LFW show, just two years after graduating, Simone Rocha has consistently made a mark on the global fashion scene. Meet one of London’s most exciting designers.
IMAGE: KATE MARTIN/CONTOUR BY GETTY IMAGES
By Scarlett Conlon
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t’s quite possible that as well as being one of the most successful fashion designers of her generation, Simone Rocha might also be the most humble. Her eponymous fashion house is a highlight on the London Fashion Week schedule, with her recent outing named one of the top 10 shows from New York, London, Milan and Paris combined by American Vogue for the fifth consecutive season. In February at Milan Fashion Week, she was one of eight renowned names to take on design responsibilities at Italian fashion house Moncler as a part of its new Genius collective. And, in the last year, she expanded her reach across the pond by opening her second shop on Wooster Street in New York, following the successful launch of her London flagship on Mount Street. Usually, at this point, the assumption for a designer in her position is that Rocha is ripe for a creative director position at an international heritage house owned by conglomerates like Kering or LVMH – such has been the ambition and trajectory of so many of her peers. Rocha, however, is taking it all in her stride. ‘I wouldn’t use the word ambition because I’m content,’ she says. ‘For me, it’s all about where I can make the best work. Although a creative director role is incredibly inviting, it would have to be something that felt natural. My ambition wouldn’t be the title, it would be to make the very best work I could.’ As for Claridges . The Connaught . The Berkeley | 81
FASHION
HAIR CLIP, £95, SIMONE ROCHA
GOWN, £1,395, SIMONE ROCHA
“Simone’s skill is in slipping in and out of history and making the move from dream to reality seem feasible” – Suzy Menkes
whether she has been approached, the designer diplomatically side-steps the question. ‘It is always nice to be asked, is the way I would put it,’ she says with a smile. Content is a word that pops up frequently in Rocha’s conversation about her work. It also emanates from the 31-year-old Dublinborn designer as she speaks, whether it be about life at home with her cinematographer partner Eoin McLoughlin and their twoyear-old daughter, Valentine, in De Beauvoir, East London – where her atelier and design team are also based – or the strong bond she shares with her parents, John and Odette, who she describes as ‘fabulous people’. The relationship with her fashion designer father is a particularly poignant one, given that it’s Rocha who continues to keep her family’s name at the forefront of the design scene since Rocha Senior decided to stop showing his biannual collections in 2014. ‘I have so much respect for my father’s work and his drive and his talent. Seeing his dedication and creativity influenced me in a very natural way. It seeped in and now my mum is like, “Oh God, you’re just like your father!”’ she laughs. ‘It’s hell for them at one of my shows! They know the pressure and everything that goes into it, and then they’re like, “That’s our kid!”’ Fashion lineage aside, Rocha has crafted her own path with the brand she established in 2010, a road that is peppered with critical 82 | Claridges . The Connaught . The Berkeley
acclaim, commercial success, headlinegrabbing shows and accolades that chart her progression. She has had her work presented at the Met Costume Institute in New York and at London’s V&A, and shown her collections in some of the capital’s most important institutions, such as the Tate Modern and Lancaster House. In 2013, three years after she graduated from Central Saint Martins under the guidance of the late professor Louise Wilson, she won the Emerging Talent award at the British Fashion Awards. A year later, she scooped the New Establishment award at the ceremony, and in 2016, she was named Womenswear Designer of the Year (the same accolade her father picked up 13 years prior). It was studying under Wilson, who was legendary for her tough-love approach, that Rocha learned practices that have stayed with her to this day. ‘She taught me that you have to be comfortable with your own identity to get the very best out of your own work – she was very stern about that with me,’ Rocha recalls. ‘She taught me to dissect every garment, inside and out, and to ask, “Is this the very best it can be?” or “Does this have a place in the collection?” That hard-core editing is the thing I do most rigorously throughout all my collections.’ It’s resulted in a honed aesthetic that is instantly recognisable as Simone Rocha, featuring cutting-edge designs that are also steeped in historical references to art and
culture. ‘Usually my collections are very emotionally driven. I’m interested in how I can reinterpret femininity today in a realistic way and modernise it by bringing a practicality to it.’ This manifests by mixing traditional and modern fabrics, such as trapping traditional lace in plastic, embellishing scuba materials with pearls, and grounding lashings of tulle with a pair of leather brogues. The motif of her S/S 2018 collection, which combined concepts such as fragility and naivety, she says, was ‘dolls holding hands’. It was hailed as ‘a continuation of everything which delights Rocha’s customers – who are women of many generations and shapes,’ by Vogue critic Sarah Mower. Rocha’s recent A/W 2018 collection took a more structured approach as she rebounded with the ‘antithesis’ of her previous collection, incorporating menswear suiting into the foundations of her work while keeping those delicate overtones. This juxtaposition was deemed ‘masterly’ by Suzy Menkes, who said, ‘Simone’s skill is in slipping in and out of history and making the move from dream to reality seem feasible.’ All this praise is yet to inflate Rocha’s ego. Her response when asked how it feels to be a leading female role model in the world of fashion is delightfully down to earth. ‘It feels wonderful, but also it feels normal. When it comes to feminism I really believe in equality,’ she explains. ‘I am a mother, I work
IMAGES: COURTESY OF SIMONE ROCHA. JO METSON SCOTT/CONTOUR BY GETTY IMAGES. DAVE BENETT/GETTY IMAGES
Backstage at Simone Rocha’s S/S18 LFW show
Top: Simone Rocha’s flagship store on Mount Street. Above: Simone with her father John Rocha at the Harper’s Bazaar Women of the Year Awards 2016 at Claridge’s
with my mother, and being a woman with what I do makes me very in touch with my customer, so that feels like a big advantage. But the power behind it for me is inclusivity. Your work should be regarded the same whether you’re a man or woman.’ As 2018 gets fully underway, Rocha’s concentration will be on designing her S/S19 collections for her own brand and for Moncler, as well as focusing on her New York and London stores – the latter of which holds special resonance. ‘For me, Mayfair has always been really magical. I remember staying in Claridge’s with my parents as a child and thinking, “I need to live here!” But in particular Mount Street. All the shops back onto the church and its beautiful gardens and the minute I saw my store and its beautiful shop front, I was totally hooked,’ she laughs, adding that her diverse neighbours add the real magic to the mix. ‘To be around all these other inspiring designer brands, it felt like a nice home for us, but at the same time you have a beautiful cigar shop, the best florist, and the best chemist of all on Audley Street, which gives it a community feeling too.’ Exceptionally talented and utterly charming, who wouldn’t want Rocha to be their neighbour? She makes for a rather magical local herself. M @conlon_scarlett Scarlett Conlon is deputy fashion director of The Guardian
DRESS, £795, SIMONE ROCHA
DRESS, £1,995, SIMONE ROCHA
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HERITAGE
Miss Daphne Battine and the Honourable Charles Wilson at the Cygnet’s ball, Claridge’s in 1955
Time& place
Date Palm C andel abr a and The Elephant Fa mily
A rtis ans of e x tr a ordin a ry g if ts fr om A fric a 1 0 4 - 1 0 6 F u l h a m R o a d, L o n d o n, S W 3
w w w. p a t r i c k m a v r o s . c o m
IMAGE: SLIM AARONS/GETTY IMAGES
in Sterling silver
From kings and queens escaping the war to goats in suites and tractors driving through the ballroom, Claridge’s has seen it all. Now, a new archive curator is piecing together 200 years of history By Hannah Betts
here are reports suggesting that Gandhi brought a goat to stay at Claridge’s in 1931, but we’re still hunting for evidence.’ A dazzling Mayfair morning, and I am sitting in the sixth-floor eerie of archive curator Kate Hudson, elbow deep in the hotel’s history. An institution like Claridge’s – albeit there is no institution like Claridge’s – becomes a magnet for myth and legend, not all of it entirely accurate. Some of its apocryphal stories do, however, pass muster. ‘Inventor Harry Ferguson really did drive his lightweight tractor through the hotel in 1946 to prove it was nippy enough to whiz round small fields,’ notes Hudson, waving a sepia picture of a thrilling, albeit manic, scene as evidence. But it’s not quite as august a tale as suite 212 being ceded to Yugoslavia for a day Claridges . The Connaught . The Berkeley | 85
HERITAGE
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“Arrivals books teem with captains, colonels and countesses coming to share the Blitz spirit”
From top: archive curator Kate Hudson in the Claridge’s archive. Engineer and inventor Harry Ferguson demonstrates a tractor at a press conference at Claridge’s. A note to guests from April 1917. A guest ledger from the 1930s
IMAGES: SAM BARKER. KEYSTONE/GETTY IMAGES. LAWRENCE SCHILLER/POLARIS COMMUNICATIONS/GETTY IMAGES. HARRY SHEPHERD/FOX PHOTOS/GETTY IMAGES
in 1945 so that territory’s crown prince could be born on native soil. Claridge’s archive currently occupies more than one hundred large cardboard boxes, dating from 1812, when the hotel was known as Mivart’s, to the present day. Hudson has been working on this coveted project since October, giving shape to what was a sprawling mass of material. ‘We have this incredible jigsaw,’ she explains, ‘and it is my privilege to fill in some of the gaps. What’s emerging is that Claridge’s history is a history of Britain itself; an ineffably elegant version, peopled by monarchs, film stars, politicians, establishment stalwarts and glorious eccentrics.’ The hotel’s tradition of hosting royalty has led to it being regarded as an annex of Buckingham Palace; no fewer than eleven royal families were in residence during the last coronation. And Queen Victoria put the place on the map in December 1860 when she visited France’s Empress Eugénie in her suite. In a letter to her uncle, Leopold, King of the Belgians – a copy of which exists in the archive – the woman on whose empire the sun never set observes: ‘We went to town for the Smithfield Cattle Show yesterday, and visited [the Empress] at Claridge’s.’ Cows naturally taking precedence. The hotel’s design acquired iconic status in the 1930s, following Oswald Milne’s transformation of it into an Art Deco mecca. The archive is replete with memorabilia from the era: from stylish luggage labels and ravishing party invitations to a film reel of a wedding party in 1936, sourced from a 1970s jumble sale. Contemporary reviews, praising the beauty of its interior, abound. A June 1932 issue of
Clockwise from top left: luggage labels from the 1930s and 1940s; Lady Mary Dunn, George Edward Alexander Edmund, the Duke of Kent and the Duchess of Rutland at a dinner held at Claridge’s, 1935; a Christmas card from General Montgomery to members of staff at Claridges, 1943
Country Life admires the venue’s ‘fresh contemporary manner… artistic, without any of that meretriciousness that is the mark of an unintelligent designer being “modern”.’ During the Second World War, the great and the good sought solace in the world’s most glamorous home-from-home. Arrivals books teem with captains, colonels and countesses coming to share the Blitz spirit. MP John Profumo – later to lend his name to the establishment scandal of 1961 – was a regular. And at the war’s end, Mr and Mrs Winston Churchill appear in the inventory, seeking sanctuary after the former’s shock election defeat in 1945. The Swinging Sixties brought change – and lack of change – as documented in an article by Auberon Waugh for a 1969 edition of Holiday magazine. On the front of this publication is a cartoon in which a bikini-clad dolly bird is caught in the uncomfortable position of having a skier launch himself off her posterior. Inside, Waugh celebrates an institution ‘more like a club than a hotel,’ in which the staff are omniscient, the Hungarian orchestra forever greets you with ‘your’ song, and Bing Crosby plays golf in the corridors, deploying the hotel’s ashtrays as holes. ‘A guest on his first visit,’ observes Waugh, ‘may receive the impression that every servant in the hotel knows not only his name but also the names of his grandparents… and whether he likes his Scotch with soda or water or on the rocks. Not until his
Top: A Christmas Day menu from 1940. Above: Cocktail recipes c.1935
third visit does he come to realise that this impression is quite true.’ He also recalls an occasion on which manager Henry van Thuyne was forced to shield a visiting grand dame with his jacket after she emerged into the lobby having remembered her jewels, but not her clothes. Given that there is never not something thrilling occurring in the hotel’s rooms, bars and ballrooms, the archive is an ongoing enterprise. Future historians will delight in today’s hive of activity, be it artist in residence David Downton’s impeccably chic portraits, Easter’s egg hunts, fashion week bashes, or the hotel’s celebrated designer Christmas trees, all eagerly recorded by Hudson. Claridge’s, she declares, ‘is a place in which the past informs both present and future, and it is my job to make its archive a living history, looking ever forward.’ In time, the hotel owes it to its public to turn the archive into both book and exhibition so that its fans can take pleasure in its recipes and dance cards, pen portraits and passports to the past. In the meantime, this great British icon is running an amnesty, inviting all objets inadvertently amassed over the years to be restored to their original home. Gentleman thieves, here is your moment! M Claridge’s Amnesty Afternoon: curator Kate Hudson and designer Guy Oliver will be holding an amnesty afternoon from 12noon-5pm on 23 May. Bring along anything from the hotel that you have found in your grandmother’s house, inherited over the years or just accidently pinched when you were 16... pieces can be donated to the archives or simply given historical context by our experts. @HannahJBetts Hannah Betts is a regular contributor to Harper’s Bazaar, the Telegraph and The Times Claridges . The Connaught . The Berkeley | 87
FEATURE
Life in colour
There are few things in life more cheering than an abundant arrangement of flowers. For McQueens, the official florists of Claridge’s, The Connaught and The Berkeley, creating fabulous, seasonal installations is a serious job. We go behind the scenes for 24 hours By Charlotte Pasha
t’s 1am on Friday morning. For once, no high heels are clicking across the chequered marble, there are no guests sitting by the fireplace, no porters taking luggage across the lobby. Even the Fumoir’s final guests have retired to bed. Now, into a silent hotel pour a six-strong team from McQueens, ready to start their day. Their first task is to gently unpin the floral installation from the previous week – this week a huge weave of branches upon which orange-red Amaryllis hang upside-down as if in a fairytale – and place a new one in their wake. The job is silent but satisfying; a floral makeover conducted while the world sleeps. Working in pairs proves most effective I’m told. Where ladders are needed, often by the main doors, one florist will climb to the top while another passes the flowers along – again with minimal chat or fuss. Periodically, everyone stops to assess the design with a critical eye from all angles, ensuring colours complement each other and designs are elaborate yet clean. They try to envisage what guests will feel upon emerging for breakfast, seeking – above all – a reaction of wonder. ‘I don’t think anyone should understand the power of flowers,’ says McQueens founder and MD Kally Ellis. ‘I think everybody should have them in their home purely because they brighten up a room, and by brightening up a room they brighten
“I don’t think anyone should underestimate the power of flowers – they enrich your life” up your mood – just the look of them, the smell, the feel of them… they can only give you pleasure.’ In the depths of February, McQueens have opted for French tulips and quince blossoms in soft pink and peach tones, the first of the season, hoping to jolly guests into thinking of warmer days fast approaching. Once the lobby, the foyer and main doors have been adorned, smaller vases are carefully placed by the staircase and in the bar, the floor is swept and the McQueens team vanishes, just as the sky above Brook Street starts to turn rose pink. Come 7am, the McQueens shop, just outside the ballroom at Claridge’s, is a hub of activity: vases are arranged, burgundy and yellow roses create a display of cheerful abundance, drivers are in and out collecting bouquets for delivery and the phone rings steadily with orders for the day. I’m fast learning that nothing is impossible, as the team tell stories of last-minute orders or the need to procure 2,000 red roses overnight, all the while with secateurs flying. Once, the whole team was flown to the south of France to create a race car and helmet entirely from flowers. “We don’t like to say no,” says Michi Kanatschnig, operations manager. ‘Finding a way’ is something of a mission statement for the brand. In 1994, Ellis was asked to come to the rescue at the 11th hour, doing Claridges . The Connaught . The Berkeley | 89
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the flowers for a Vanity Fair party at the Serpentine Gallery (which subsequently went down in history for unveiling Princess Diana’s ‘revenge dress’). The night was such a success, McQueens now does many VF parties, including the legendary post-Oscars event. Special installations take months to prepare – this year’s Valentine’s display at Claridge’s saw large trees in the entranceway hung with mason jars and glass baubles, filled with scarlet flowers, while plans for Wimbledon and this year a royal wedding are already underway. Meanwhile Christmas is a military operation, with a whole 5 x 12-metre section in McQueens HQ (in Bethnal Green) dedicated to festive trappings. Planning starts as soon as the previous year’s decorations are back in their boxes. For the ‘regular’ installations across the hotels, planning usually occurs around three weeks in advance, involving mood boards and sketches. Ellis and her team take inspiration from all aspects of London’s creativity, from fashion and design to architecture, helped by social media – the McQueens team are no strangers to falling down the Instagram rabbithole. In the office, pages have been torn from magazines, and coffee-table books lay open, marked with Post-it notes for reference. However, for a florist, nothing competes with the flower market. The New Covent Garden flower market – once in Covent Garden itself but moved south in 1976 when demand necessitated more space – is a dangerous place for a flower enthusiast. Once a week, the overnight installation team – Yeonhee Lee, Zibi Zibara and Renato Ribeiro – are given free reign to dart among the 57 acres of flowers, branches, trees and floral paraphernalia, chatting to wholesalers and picking down-to-a-tee shades of still-springing flowers that are destined for a McQueens arrangement. While roses, hydrangeas, delphiniums and peonies are among the most popular flowers at Claridge’s, the team always try to work with the seasons and bring armfuls of colour back to the shop each time they go. Back at the hotel and it’s time to prep the flowers for the group’s 500 or so rooms and suites before check-in. Joey, who works in the Claridge’s shop, explains that the most common order is for three white hydrangeas in a small vase. Now the morning stress has eased, Duncan McCabe, McQueens’ social media guru, turns his attention to Instagram, sharing a glimpse of the McQueens world, from images of the finished arrangement in The Berkeley to a wedding set-up video in the Claridge’s ballroom. He posts a video of the McQueens floristry school where students are currently learning to create floral chandeliers. From the ‘likes’ – often pushing 100,000 – it seems that the world shares Ellis’ view of the importance of flowers. ‘They really do enrich your life so much,’ she says. ‘Every day I thank God for being surrounded by so much beauty.’ M McQueens at Claridge’s is open every day from 9am - 6.30pm. One-day, one-week and four-week courses are available at the McQueens school of flowers in Bethnal Green. To book, visit mcqueens.co.uk.
“Once, the whole team was flown to the south of France to create a race car and helmet entirely from flowers”
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SMYTHSON.COM
TRAVEL
Start over
Never before have we needed to rest, rebuild and recharge ourselves quite so much as we do today. Here, we bring you the very best European destination spas to reboot and unplug body, mind and soul By Susannah Taylor
IMAGES: COURTESY OF CHATEAU LA COSTE, SIMON SCHWYZER
THE HOLISTIC RETREAT, VILLA LACOSTE, PROVENCE
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If you’re looking for somewhere to deeply, slowly and luxuriously unwind, then look no further than the spa at the Villa La Coste. Set in the rolling aromatic hills of Provence in the grounds of the Chateau La Coste, this idyllic French sanctuary offers a journey of the senses, embracing and immersing you all the colours, scents, oils, clays and muds from the surrounding environment. Using a signature range of organic products that embrace the abundance of local ingredients from jasmine, lavender and rose blossoms to orange and apricot butters and warm, medicinal muds, it’s a space to provide full physical and emotional release. Treatments combine the aromatherapy of the surrounding environment with healing traditions taken from as far back as the Roman empire. Choose from nature-inspiring healing massages such as a Cedar and Chamomile Physical Fixer (ideal for deeply fatigued or stressed nervous systems), to body exfoliations, facials and mud treatments using basil, vetiver or tuberose clay. Such a holistic environment is the perfect backdrop for a series of special healing, nurturing retreats that Villa La Coste are hosting throughout 2018, from a Body, Mind and Soul retreat (16-20 May) and a Bodhimaya retreat (21-27 April) to a ‘Master in residence’ one, where world-renowened therapists such as Leonid Seveloff, a specialist in cranio sacral therapy, will work to balance the brain and nervous system and stimulating the body’s self-healing mechanisms helping to ease a number of ailments. Ideal for those looking for a complete reboot. villalacoste.com
“The idyllic environment makes for the perfect backdrop for healing retreats” Claridges . The Connaught . The Berkeley | 93
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THE MEDI-SPA THE MAYR CLINIC, AUSTRIA
Dress, £585, We are Leone available at Selfridges. Basket bag, £295, Loewe
“The Mayr is not about being ‘pampered’, it is about health”
A place famous for its fasts, its enemas, vitamin injections and its special healing powers, the Mayr is not about being ‘pampered’, it is about health and in particular gut health. Dr Mayr was convinced that overeating and bad diet causes a lot of ill-health. He also believed that giving your body a rest by fasting could kick-start your body’s ability to heal itself. From the minute you arrive, it’s drummed into you that a good diet, devoid of sugar, gluten, meat, anything raw, coffee and alcohol (to name a few things), is the key to good health. You are asked to chew your food at least 30 times before swallowing (easier to digest) and there are always at least five hours between (silent) meals with strictly no snacking in between. First off are diagnostic tests, then your programme will begin at sunrise with stretching by the lake followed by sheep’s milk yoghurt and a chunk of buckwheat bread. There are daily stomach massages as well as vitamin and fat-burning infusions plus exercise if you feel like it. Devoid of fluffy facials, this all sounds like a fairly harsh experience, but the deprivation is sweetened by the Mayr’s beautiful setting, which is on the shores of the Lake Worthesee, and also a quality of service and amenities you would find at a five-star hotel. What’s more, you leave with vital information about your body and your gut and new ways of living and eating that will stick with you for life. original-mayr.com
THE FULL BODY MOT AMAN SPA, LONDON The very first spa to be built outside the world-class Aman resorts, the Aman spa is a haven of peace away fom the buzz of central London. Travellers and Londoners rejoice in the tranquil waters of the black granite ionized swimming pool and drift away on the aromatherapy scents in the crystal steam room. Treatments are holistic with long-lasting effects. The signature treatments are based upon Ayruvedic principles and combine ancient rituals from around the world such as restoring Chinese Qi energy if you are feeling flat or using Thai herbal heat compresses to revive weary bones. Depending on how you are feeling, there’s a large menu of osteopathy, Chinese acupuncture and reflexology as well as a naturopathic nutrition consultation that will leave you with the takeaway tools to help nurture your body and improve your health when you leave the spa. One unique addition to the Aman is a signature postural analysis and a stretching and body movement session. The former will evaluate the alignment and movement of your spine, pelvis and joints giving you the knowledge to prevent injury. The latter uses the best of Chinese healing exercises, Pilates, yoga and bodywork to help reduce stress, anxiety and pain whilst increasing blood flow. You will emerge revived and ready to conquer the world. the-connaught.co.uk 94 | Claridges . The Connaught . The Berkeley
Vanity case, £780, Globe-Trotter. Oud & Bergamot Cologne Intense, £118, Jo Malone London
THE SPIRITUAL OVERHAUL THE VAIR SPA, PUGLIA
THE STRESS REDUCER, VILLA STEPHANIE, BADEN-BADEN
Winner of Condé Nast Traveller’s ‘Most Life Changing Experience’ for 2017, The Vair spa takes up 2,000 square metres within the luxury of the Borgo Egnazia Hotel in Puglia, surrounded by millennia old olive groves. Entirely made from Tufo stone with small troughs containing rock crystal, its very walls are said to absorb negativity. And at the heart of the hotel is the Vair spa, somewhere to explore and lose yourself. Your experience is designed according to your unique needs and divided into two major themes that work on different goals: ‘Lightness and Energy’ and ‘Relaxation and Beauty’. The former uses sport and spa, a physical and psychological detox as well as exquisite massages, whilst the latter allows you to dive deeper into yourself with yoga, more individual treatments (try psycho aromatherapy where scents are used like tarot cards) or music therapy. Aside from the incredible personalized treatments you can also kick back in the Roman baths consisting of a tepidarium, a caldarium, a frigidarium, a saltwater flotation tank, a sauna and Turkish baths, or you could choose an Iyengar yoga session or a visit to the spa cinema. The strapline for the Vair is ‘Wellness like nowhere else in the world’ and it certainly lives up to that. borgoegnazia.com
Do you find the pace of your life overwhelming? Are you permanently attached to your phone/computer/iPad? Thankfully there is somewhere you can go for a proper break. Villa Stephanie is the little sister of the Brenners Park Hotel. This 15 bedroom sanctuary is a place for the overwrought to properly disconnect. The spa, which is a whole 5,000 square metres dedicated to the world of wellness, is not about tree hugging or art therapy or finding your inner child once again. This is a more a state-of-the-art medical facility that handholds you through a 360-degree assessment of your wellbeing, with physiotherapists, cardiologists, gynaecologists, naturopaths and opthalmologists all on tap, giving you the Michelin star of all health checks. There is even aesthetic dentistry on tap if you have always wanted to tweak your smile. On arrival expect to be given a huge schedule of examinations, as well as a programme of alternative therapies plus a general maintenance programme to keep you on track. It’s not all white coats however. There is a whole lot of pampering on tap too from Sisley facials to Bamford massages and stretching sessions – that leave you feeling literally released – as well as yoga, kick boxing and mental training. You can also take a dip in the pool, visit the Shiatsu specialist or bliss out in the Hammam. An unforgettable experience that reaps proper health results. M oetkercollection.com @susannahtaylor_ Susannah is the co-founder of Get the Gloss Burlington Holdall, £1,495, Smythson. Swim shorts, £95, Orlebar Brown. Passport cover, £55, Aspinal of London
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MOVE FAST AS THE CURRENT SEASON DRAWS TO AN END, THE SMARTEST SKIERS ARE ALREADY BOOKING THE NEXT ONE. HERE, WE BRING YOU THE BEST OF THE BEST CHALETS TO BOOK NOW By Gabriella le Breton
t’s a simple Alpine truth: all chalets are not created equal. Where skiers were once content with a dinky timber chalet and a bonus hot tub or friendly chalet girl, today’s connoisseurs expect designer properties complete with hotel-worthy spas, Michelin-starred chefs and priceless art collections. However, in order to enjoy the pick of these über chalets you have to be canny and bag your spot in spring, before next winter even thinks about settling in again...
CHALET HELORA, VERBIER “A dedicated team have been trained by the Royal Lodge to deliver flawless service”
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Amongst Verbier’s proliferation of ultra-luxury chalets, Chalet Helora is the real ‘for those in the know’ deal. Owned by the Duke and Duchess of York, Helora enjoys a secluded setting on the south-facing Savoleyres part of Verbier’s expansive ski area and has only recently been made available to a fortunate few guests. Affording jaw-dropping views over Verbier and the Petit and Grand Combin mountain ranges from the cosy living room, vast balcony and spectacular swimming pool, the charming old timber chalet abounds with the family’s personal touches, such as royal collection furniture, handpicked artworks and their very own Duchess Blends tea. Very much a family home, the property boasts five pretty timber-clad bedrooms and a traditionally-styled open-plan kitchen and dining area, which is perfect for casual dinners. With a team of staff, all trained by the Royal Lodge team to deliver flawless service, and Verbier’s legendary ski slopes, restaurants and bars all within easy reach, Chalet Helora is well worthy of its royal seal of approval. To book, contact Toby Ackland at toby@trevaster.com Claridges . The Connaught . The Berkeley | 97
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DAY JACKET, £435, PERFECT MOMENT
SNOW DAYS
From bold separates to make you stand out on the slopes to superchic après wear, our pick of the most stylish pieces to pack
Above left: the terrace at Chalet des Fermes. Right: the pool at Shemshak Lodge. Below: House Hannes Schneider
CHALET DES FERMES, MEGÈVE From its snow-laden eaves and sunblackened timber exterior to the centuries-old beams and sheepskinclad walls within, Chalet des Fermes is the epitome of rustic chalet chic. Set amidst the meandering streams, orchards and herb gardens of the Les Fermes du Marie hotel, the secluded chalet spans three floors, comprising a large, fire-warmed sitting room; inviting dining room; spa; and five bedrooms. The master suite is top dog, enveloping the entire third floor with its palatial bathroom and dressing room, yet each bedroom is a cocoon of fur throws, butter-soft leather armchairs, cloud-like duvets and indulgent toiletries from the hotel’s pioneering spa, Pure Altitude. Enjoy spa treatments and meals in the privacy of the chalet or simply pad through the gardens to make full use of the hotel’s spa and four restaurants. If you can drag yourself away from the chalet’s sun-drenched terraces, Megève’s flatteringly gentle ski slopes and chic town centre are less than five minutes away by chauffeur-driven car. fermesdemarie.com
HOUSE HANNES SCHNEIDER, STUBEN Rather appropriately for a chalet set in the heart of Austria’s largest ski area, House Hannes Schneider is named after the ski instructor who was born here in 1890 and developed the Arlberg ski technique, which shapes the way we all ski today. Schneider’s house has changed more than the sleepy village of Stuben in 98 | Claridges . The Connaught . The Berkeley
“Each bedroom is a cocoon of fur throws, butter-so�t leather armchairs and cloud-like duvets” which it sits: the latter is a smattering of old chalets dotted around a 13thcentury church while the former has been transformed into a plush sixbedroom property. Family antiques, roaring fires and photographs of Schneider are juxtaposed with contemporary art and designer furnishings to create an eclectic design blend while a cinema, spa, attentive staff and touches like monogrammed hot water bottles and bespoke toiletries tick the creature comforts boxes. Despite the chalet’s sense of blissful isolation from typical ski resort hubbub, Stuben’s nursery slopes and lifts up to the interconnected pistes of St Anton, Lech and Zürs are just a three-minute ski/walk away. househannesschneider.at
CHALET ACONCAGUA, ZERMATT Set just a snowball’s throw from the Sunegga funicular, which whisks you directly into Zermatt’s extensive high-altitude ski area, 7 Heavens is a cluster of highly coveted properties in this postcard-perfect town. The magnificent seven are apartments as opposed to standalone chalets; yet, each measuring some 6,000 square feet, they’re hardly cramped and add access to a slick communal lobby, living room, bar and gym. Sprawling across four floors (there is an elevator), Chalet Aconcagua nods to trad chalet chic with reclaimed timber walls and ceilings yet oozes contemporary masculinity with occasional black and dark grey slate walls, monochrome modern art, black leather furniture and granite bathrooms. In addition to four double
bedrooms and a four-person bunkroom, Aconcagua delivers a capacious vaulted sitting and dining room, large TV room and spa. The chalet is managed by Haute Montagne, whose staff are accustomed to catering to the whims of the rich, famous and rockstar and work miracles in securing tables at Zermatt’s hottest mountain restaurants. hautemontagne.com
JUMPER, £395, BELLA FREUD
JUMPER, £350, BELLA FREUD
SHEMSHAK LODGE, COURCHEVEL A deeply sophisticated chalet, Shemshak Lodge sits directly on Courchevel 1850’s Plantrets piste, offering an effortless ski-in/ ski-out experience in Europe’s largest ski area. It’s also a short stroll from the resort’s legendary boutiques and bars although your dedicated chauffeur is, of course, on hand to whisk you around should you prefer not to get snow on your Dior Moon Boots. Taking its name from the Iranian resort where its owners first met, Shemshak’s muted colour palette provides the backdrop for their delicate Persian textiles, sculptures and antiques while contemporary art works deliver pops of colour in the five large bedrooms. The lower ground floor is a full-service wellness sanctuary complete with a 26-foot-long pool overlooking the slopes – views that get even better one floor up from the glass-fronted double-height living and dining room. Operated by Consensio Chalets, service is slick, professional and welcoming – with cuddly toys and early supper service for children and bottomless Perrier-Jouët and surprise parties for grown-ups. M consensiochalets.co.uk
ISOLA RACING PANTS, £475, PERFECT MOMENT
SNOWBOOTS, FROM A SELECTION, MONCLER AT MATCHESFASHION.COM
SWIMSUIT, £155, STELLA MCCARTNEY AT HARRODS
SUNGLASSES, £230, TOM FORD
@GabyLeBreton. Gabriella Le Breton is a travel writer specialising in skiing, cruising and luxury adventure travel; she regularly contributes to the Daily Telegraph, Financial Times and Spectator Claridges . The Connaught . The Berkeley | 99
HERITAGE
Fit for a Queen On New Year’s Day 1953, while much of the city was no doubt recovering from the revelry of the night before, 13 glamorous models gathered in the silk-lined drawing room at Claridge’s. In preparation for the upcoming coronation, the models displayed the sartorial masterpieces of the era in all their rustling glory. Elegantly posed, leaning against the grand fireplace or reclining against the chaise lounge, the ladies fitted in beautifully with their surroundings. With the Queen’s coronation just six months away, and rumours that it would be televised (it was), it seems there was not a moment to lose for the ladies of society to select their dresses for the occasion. In the wake of Dior’s New Look, the
feminine shapes of the era are represented by nipped waists and sweetheart necklines. Elegant accessories, long silk evening gloves, pearls and sweeping stoles speak to a time when grace and elegance were currency. While the models here showcase black-tie dresses, the Queen herself selected something less form-fitting, plumping once again for Norman Hartnell, who had created her wedding dress five years earlier. Her heavily embroidered dress, made from white silk satin, included gold bugle beads, diamanté and pearls and cleverly paid homage to the Commonwealth, incorporating floral emblems from Canada, Australia and India. On the day itself, a total of 8,251 guests attended the Queen’s coronation ceremony at Westminster Abbey while 27 million people watched the BBC’s broadcast. For most, it was the first time they had seen an event on television. M
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IMAGE: KEYSTONE/HULTON ARCHIVE/GETTY IMAGES
“In preparation for the coronation, the models display the latest collections at Claridge’s”
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SOCIAL
Laurent-Perrier chosen by
Claridge’s.
Illustrated by Quentin Blake
Photo credit: Iris Velghe / Illustrator credit: Quentin Blake
CUVÉE ROSÉ CHOSEN BY THE BEST
Raising a glass It’s been a fashionable few months in London... Claridge’s celebrated a new cookbook, The Berkeley unveiled a chic collaboration and everyone came out to toast Lagerfeld’s transformation of the iconic lobby ERIN O’CONNOR AND SAM MCKNIGHT
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CHRISTINA ESTRADA
SOCIAL
FRANKIE HERBERT, SABRINA PERCY AND NATALIE SALMON
CLARA PAGET
LADY KITTY SPENCER
MARISSA MONTGOMERY AND KNUT WYLDE
Do Not Disturb at The Berkeley
ROSIE FORTESCUE, FRANKIE HERBERT, MARISSA MONTGOMERY, SABRINA PERCY AND NATALIE SALMON
The Berkeley’s new, John Heah-designed Grand Terrace Suite hosted the launch of RottenRoach’s Do Not Disturb T-shirt range, a collaboration with the hotel. Chic ladies of London including Sophia Hesketh, Millie Mackintosh, Olivia Buckingham and Lady Violet Manners donned the designs and sipped LaurentPerrier as they enjoyed manicures and facials. The Berkeley’s pastry team created a delectable selection of biscuits and cakes and the evening was rounded off with an impromptu photoshoot as Rosie Fortescue, Frankie Herbert and Natalie Salmon dived onto the sumptuous king-size bed.
CLAUDIA WINKLEMAN AND NARMINA MARANDI
MARK FRANCIS VANDELLI VICTORIA PENDLETON DAISY LOWE
MARY KATRANTZOU
Karl Lagerfeld for Claridge’s
Always one of the most star-studded events on the Christmas calendar, the unveiling of the Claridge’s tree attracted great names from fashion and beyond to the hotel’s Art Deco lobby. The festive masterpiece was created by none other than Karl Lagerfeld. Following 2016’s huge installation by Sir Jony Ive and Marc Newson, Lagerfeld turned tradition on its head, suspending a 16-foot tree from the corniced ceiling by silver-gilded roots, topped with a mirrored star. Equally glamorous were the guests, including Erin O’Connor, Sir Paul Smith, Gemma Arterton and Claudia Winkleman, who tucked into lobster croque-monsieurs and Christmas pudding ice-cream lollipops.
DAVID DOWNTON AND VIRGINIA BATES
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MARTYN NAIL AND MEREDITH ERICKSON
STEP INTO OUR WORLD
‘Claridge’s – The Cookbook’ launch
MIKA SIMMONS AND CHLOE DELEVINGNE
From couture fashion shows to floral displays like no other, follow us on Instagram to keep up with the news from London: @claridgeshotel @theconnaught @the_berkeley
The evening began with Champagne in the Claridge’s kitchen – exactly one hundred of London’s foodie elite, dressed to the nines among the hallowed stoves and copper pans... Then it was up the staff corridors and through to the silk-lined Drawing Room, dressed for the occasion with elegant taper candles and vivid autumnal centrepieces by McQueens. Dinner was a feast of Claridge’s favourites – lobster risotto, chicken pie and chocolate soufflé, while the authors – executive chef Martyn Nail and writer Meredith Erickson – paid homage to the centuries of innovation and cuisine that have kept Claridge’s at the top of London’s everchanging dining scene. However it was artist-in-residence David Downton who summed up the mood of the night best: ‘Bolt the doors. We have Claridge’s; they can have the rest!’
DAVID DOWNTON AND FIONA LEAHY
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REGULARS
INSTAGRAM STORIES
Afternoon tea at Jean-Georges
From couture fashion shows to floral displays like no other, follow us on Instagram to keep up with the news from London: @claridgeshotel @theconnaught @the_berkeley
RULE BREAKER
Black truffle pizza, an all-vegetarian restaurant, French/Asian fusion (back when the very concept was considered sacrilege)... Jean-Georges Vongerichten isn’t one for culinary rules, which is why his new afternoon tea at the Connaught is so thrilling. In typical Jean-Georges style, he has kept the best parts – the warm scones, the three-tier approach, the quiet ceremony of the tea itself – while enhancing along the way. Think miso amuse-bouche with champagne to start, Southeast Asian flavours giving a dramatic boost to classic British sandwiches and a chocolate fondue with homemade ginger cake and the ‘Connaught hound’ biscuits for dipping – rule-breaking at its best. the-connaught.co.uk
KITCHEN CONFIDENTIAL MEET HUSBAND AND WIFE TEAM MARK AND SHAUNA FROYDENLUND, THE NEW JOINT CHEF PATRONS AT MARCUS
CULINARY HERO? M: Shauna will say me. S: Er, no! M: It has to be Marcus Wareing. He’s had the biggest impact on our career. S: He’s never taken a back seat in anything. He’s the driving force of the business which is really inspiring.
The Scoop
FAVOURITE INGREDIENTS?
STEP INTO OUR WORLD WITH THE LATEST NEWS FROM CLARIDGE’S, THE CONNAUGHT AND THE BERKELEY AND OUR STYLISH NEIGHBOURS
M: Smoked paprika, onions… S: I’d say onions as well. And from a pastry point of view, butter and eggs.
LE POULET DU DIMANCHE
What could be more cheering than a perfectly cooked roast chicken on a lazy weekend afternoon. Now, two-Michelin-starred chef Hélène Darroze brings her famous gourmet approach to the humble Sunday roast with Le Poulet du Dimanche – a new five-course menu for two. From the crispy skin and chicken liver mousse with confit egg yolk to the chicken consommé with ravioli of Bigorre ham and country vegetables, each course develops the theme, all leading to le poulet rôti itself – a delicious roast chicken from Les Landes, stuffed with foie gras and served with pommes soufflées, asparagus and Périgord black truffle, a Darroze family recipe. the-connaught.co.uk
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CARD TRICKS To celebrate a decade of the inimitable Connaught Bar, Smythson has created a series of special edition, handdrawn note cards featuring its most famous cocktail recipes, including the Fleurissimo, the Faraway Collins and, of course, the famous Connaught Martini. the-connaught.co.uk
DESERT ISLAND MUST-HAVES?
CAN YOU SUM UP YOUR WORKING RELATIONSHIP?
IMAGE: JOHN CAREY
From left: children’s Majolica print dress, £355, adult Majolica print dress, £1,600, both Dolce & Gabbana
S: Well I couldn’t live without a freestanding mixer. I’ve got one at home. I quite like a blender too. M: Scissors. You never have them when you need them, and that’s when you realise how important they are.
M: Dry pulses. S: Definitely a knife. M: A spade. To bury Shauna with. S: Don’t write that!
MINI ME
Entering the terrible twos, Harrod’s Mini Superbrands is back for summer with a fabulous new collection of matching mother and child outfits guaranteed to cause a stir. We love Burberry’s matching silk polka-dot dresses and these cheerful Majolica-print pieces from Dolce & Gabbana. harrods.com
FAVOURITE GADGET?
M: Respectful. S: Supportive? There’s always one of us here at Marcus, so we know the restaurant is in good hands. M: Inspirational. S: No, don’t say that! M: Fun! S: Yes, definitely fun! marcusrestaurant.com Marcus, The Berkeley, Wilton Place, London SW1X 7RL Claridges . The Connaught . The Berkeley | 107
REGULARS
Exclusively Maddox - Emerging, Established and Blue Chip artists featuring leading Los Angeles-based street artist Mr Brainwash.
THE ART OF ENTERTAINING Whether it’s a power breakfast, a drinks reception or a wedding, there is simply nowhere like Claridge’s to host an event. Now, the newly designed mezzanine floor offers a variety of new options to suit any occasion, from the elegant 22-person Highgrove Room (above) to the huge Art-Deco inspired Clarence Room, boasting views over Brook Street. claridges.co.uk
ON THE BRIGHT SIDE It’s a truth universally acknowledged that everything looks better by candlelight. However, one too many flickering flames and it all starts to look a bit like Midnight Mass. Add a touch of colour and glamour to the atmosphere with candle shades by British fashion illustrator Susannah Garrod (whose work can also be seen at Prêt-à-Portea at The Berkeley). The hand-painted shades come in a handful of options including pink candy-cane stripes, apple-green trellis and yellow leopard-print – a chic addition to any room. susannahgarrod.bigcartel.com
19TH APRIL - 14TH MAY
KEEP SMILING BY MR BRAINWASH
SHOES MAKETH THE MAN
There was a time when a man was judged by what he put on his feet. For those who still regard exquisite footwear as the mark of a gentleman, you will be relieved to hear that Claridge’s have teamed up with bespoke shoemakers Gaziano & Girling to create the ultimate slipper – comfortable enough to enjoy after a long day but smart enough to wear down to The Fumoir with a smoking jacket. claridges.co.uk 108 | Claridges . The Connaught . The Berkeley
A SPECTACULAR NEW BODY OF OIL PAINTINGS AND NEON WORK
CREATIVE SPIRIT
Fera at Claridge’s continues to push the boundaries of Michelin-starred cuisine by crafting its own bespoke Fera Gin. True to the restaurant’s philosophy, this traditional English small-batch craft gin has been created in the Fera Development Kitchen using a rotary evaporator and British ingredients and there are just ten bottles made every week. claridges.co.uk
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REGULARS
MATCH POINT This summer sees the longawaited arrival of the Matches Townhouse on Carlos Place. Helpfully located just opposite The Connaught, the concept space promises to bring the brand’s digital presence to life with displays of new season collections along with an impressive ‘In Residence’ programme of talks and events. matchesfashion.com
SHINE BRIGHT
Bag, £700, Wandler, Matchesfashion.com
Blazer, £1,386; coat, £1,646, both Kwaidan Editions at Matchesfashion.com
Using a pressurised jet to deliver hyaluronic acid, peptides and antioxidants into the skin, Intraceuticals has earned the badge of being a ‘red-carpet essential’ for A-listers looking for perfectly glowing skin. Now available at the Aman Spa at The Connaught, this high-tech treatment will give you the same effect in just 45 minutes – red carpet awaiting or not. the-connaught.co.uk
BREATHE EASY
With panoramic views over the London skyline, the rooftop at The Berkeley has long been a favourite oasis in the city. Now, the hotel has teamed up with luxury fitness brand Silou to offer Yoga classes each morning, allowing guests to wake up with the sun overlooking the treetops of Hyde Park – the perfect way to start your day. Yoga at The Berkeley will run throughout the summer, the-berkeley.co.uk
110 | Claridges . The Connaught . The Berkeley
IMAGES: MATTEO VALLE/GETTY IMAGES
POWER UP
For anyone looking to get in shape, the motto ‘start in the kitchen’ should be indelibly inscribed on your mind. As an expert nutritionalist, Claridge’s trainer-inresidence Steve Mellor knows this better than most and offers his clients a postworkout shake and protein balls made with elite protein powder Whey’d. M claridges.co.uk
ORLEBARBROWN.COM
A portrait of…
Zac Posen by artist-in-residence David Downton
here’s a reunion going on in fashion designer Zac Posen’s suite at Claridge’s. He and his partner – the elegant and ever eloquent Christopher Niquet – are hosting fashion illustrator Daisy de Villeneuve at one of those ‘only in Mayfair’ room service breakfasts. A star in the de Villeneuve firmament (her mother is model Jan, her father music manager and photographer Justin, her sister filmmaker Poppy), Daisy attended the Central Saint Martins art school with Zac in the late 1990s, and they have much to talk about. When it’s time for the drawing, Zac changes into black tie, complementing his batwing brow and Brando profile. It’s little wonder this charming man – a TV star (Project Runway) and popular author (Cooking With Zac) as well as go-to red carpet designer – is a favourite with New York’s society ladies and stars. – David Downton M 112 | Claridges . The Connaught . The Berkeley
CALIBER RM 07-01
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