Living Histories : Jodhpur & Jaisalmer 2018 by BSSA Editorial

JODHPUR - JAISALMER LIVING HISTORIES

2018

BALWANT SHETH SCHOOL OF ARCHITECTURE BSSA aspires to be a school of contemporary thought. Learning architecture at BSSA is about the people, processes & technology. Architecture is about the holistic understanding between people, culture, heritage & art. BSSA wants understand people to be able to build for them. Architecture is about understanding processes than products. BSSA focuses on understanding processes in nature, science & society. It is a process based designschool. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS The trip to Jodhpur and Jaisalmer helped us gather a better understanding of the city, it’s zoning, people and spaces. This compilation is a documentation of the selected works of our 5 day trip to Rajasthan. We would like to extend our gratitude to our college Dean and it’s authorities for giving us this wonderful opportunity. We’d also like to thank our mentors Ms. Janki Shah and Ms. Prachi Dalvi, who not only accompanied us, but also motivated, guided us and encouraged us throughout the trip. Lastly, we extend our warmest thanks to the authorities and agencies of Rajasthan, for the smooth conduct of the trip. Copyright 2022 Balwant Sheth School of Architecture SVKM’s NMIMS All rights, no part of this publication, may be reproduced, or transmitted in any form, or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, recording or any other information storage or retrieval system, without prior permission in writing from the publisher. 01

Fig 1 Haveli of patwa traders in Jaisalmer city 02

PREFACE Places have moods. Places have character. Places have people. And above all places have colours, diversity of landscapes, life coming alive through myriad shades. Through this magazine, we enrapture the shades of Jodhpur and Jaisalmer in 2018. Jaisalmer, an amber world in itself, while Jodhpur, rising as an indigo dyed mirage from the ochre countryside and the desert landscape. In Jaisalmer, we witnessed the lively Jaisalmer Fort. Within the fort complex lies the most spectacular design & architecture. Locally referred to as the Sonar Qila, this living legacy boasts of stepwells, temples, residences, restaurants, hotels and more. We have tried to magnify the hullabaloo of town life in this fort through our set of drawings. Amidst the golden grandeur, we also photographed the majestic Patwon ki Haveli and Nathmal Ji Ki Haveli. In Jodhpur, we mapped the busy by-lanes of the walled city with the Mehrangarh Fort at its crest. These drawings take us through a journey of the ideas of medieval city planning. Published By Publication Cell, Balwant Sheth School of Architecture Editor Atrey Chhaya [I C Dean], Balwant Sheth School of Architecture

Fig 2 Enamelled doors, symbols of opulence, on the silk route. 04

JAISALMER 05

JODHPUR 06

J A I S A L M E R

Royal, resplendent and filled with history we have the Golden City of Jaisalmer. Jaisalmer is in the heart of the famous Thar Desert, and was once the city of commerce for the traders on the silk route. Compactly built entirely of yellowstone, on top of a hillock and its slopes with nothing else in the vicinity, the city gives a sense of slope. Jaisalmer is a compact network of short streets. In negotiating the terrain, the streets have become quite interesting. With fairly high buildings and the streets rarely more than four metres wide, they always remain in cool shade. Jaisalmer streets are more than mere paths- they are public spaces too. The narrow winding streets with densely built construction have a special character.

Fig 3 The doors to the Royal Abode of Rajasthan. 08

Rising 250 feet above the city, the Jaisalmer Fort was built in 1156 AD. It is colossal, organic, delicate, and imposing all at once. Its dominance over the skyline, with multiple bastions, canons and rooftop cafes is spectacular. It is one of the best kept collections of regal Rajput fort lifestyle and paraphernalia. Now colonized by shops which are true to Rajasthani traditions- sell everything from antiques, textiles, leheriya and bandhani fabrics, turbans, silver jewellery, lacquerware, puppets, carpets to camel leather and bone artefacts. The Jaisalmer fort is a sensorial extravaganza, a product of its planning-zoning, fine sandstone masonry, intricate detailing, and live-in spirit. These 10th-11th generation residents are dependent on the fort for their livelihoods and means. With its vibrant culture, and unnerving hospitality of the brightly attired residents, the fort with its people exude festivity all around the year.

Fig 4 The Living Jaisalmer Fort 10

THE

LIVING

FORT

Desert, with the royal air, Jaisalmer, is replete with living histories. It is in the heart of the Thar Desert, and was once the city of commerce for the traders on the historic silk route. Today, it has retained its identity of commerce and heritage with the famous Rajasthani handlooms on display for the throng of tourists. Built entirely out of yellow stone, soaring on the hillock,the fort is locally referred to as sonar qila. It can be seen from kilometers around. Life in the fort, has its on rhythm and pace, it narrates the story of the skill and enterprise of the people in the past.. The fortress is a compact network of streets, and Chowks. In negotiating the terrain, the streets have gained an interesting character. They streets are more than mere paths- they are public spaces too. With fairly high buildings and the streets rarely more than four metres wide, they are perennially shaded. The scale of fortress, from within, doesn’t duplicate its magnanimity, it reflects the warmth of the inhabitants.

Fig 5 Looking over the city of Jaisalmer, from the fort walls.

Fig 6 Intricate Jali work as seen on all facades, which help regulate internal temperatures. Jaisalmer fort is intricately carved in sandstone. These carvings are replete with floral ornamentation, religious symbolism, dieties, etc.

Fig 7 Varied Architraves and panelling as seen on doors inside the fortress. The wooden doors and windows are inserted within sandstone niches. They too are detailed and enamelled in metal. The fort figuratively and literally boasts of Rajput Royalty.

Fig 8 Enamelled doors, symbols of opulence, on the silk route. Various styles, proportions and panels. This exploration defines and is symbolic of various kinds, ethinicities, sects and cultures that coexist within the fort wall.

Fig 9 Imitation doors seen frequently across Rajasthan. Many architectural elements have been replaced with metal imitation. On being painted with actual colours, it gives the impression of aesthetics.

Fig 10 Jharokhas as a look out for the women in side, while not being seen themselves. Being a lived in fort, the people have lived here for centuries. Their livelihood primarily supported by tourist influx, drawn towards the rich history and the thriving market of culture.

Fig 11 A network of streets connect the residential areas of the fort. Many tourists shops are the main source of livelihood for the residents.

Fig 12 Beyond their livelihood, the community within the fort complex is rich and closeknit. The wide streets outside the plinth, explains the same notion.

Fig 13

Fig 14

The fort has many Jain temples, each it’s own significance and symbolism.

Cupolas or chhattris as shades from The harsh summer.

Fig 15 The openings and fenestrations resonate with pride, garlanded with ornamentation 18

Rising in the middle, high above the city, is the daunting citadel of Mehrangarh, an invincible fortress within which are juxtaposed exquisitely carved stone palaces. Spread out between Mehrangrah and the city gate lies the low-lying walled city of Jodhpur. Characterisedbycrookednarrowlanes,leadingthrough rows of blue hued houses, deeper than the cerulean sky above. The colour blue was once a distinction mark of the city’s Shaivite Brahmins but has since been adopted by all. The city of Jodhpur has a traditional urban character that comes out as a response to the climate, the site conditions and the culture. Buildings of the blue color, carved stone facades, jharokhas, meandering streets, courtyard houses, bazaars, open chowks, community spaces, temples and water structures make the blue fabric of the city.

Fig 16 Nestled in the mehrangarh hillock valley, the city of Jodhpur.

NAVCHOWKIYA

Closer to the fort complex exit lies the NavChokiya, junction of nine roads. A cluster of temples, local vendors and trees characterises the liveliness of these narrow streets. The nine roads are home to Jodhpur’s choicest offerings right from culinary delights to walking trails and photoshoots. The drawings and montages portray the fruits of aimlessly walking through and around NavChokiya for a period of five days, soaking in sights, sounds and the warmth under a vast sky so blue it almost reflected the city below.

Fig 17 The streets of Navchowkiya.

Fig 18 Narrow blue hued alleyways in Jodhpur city. 23

Fig 20 Fig 19 Residential street view. Jodhpur old city, is reflective of community and occupation based city networks.

House facade in the city The residential and commercial areas are distinctly identifiable. Each typology has their own identifying and symbolic markers on the facades.

Fig 21 Narrow lanes within the city. The design and planning of the lanes, also shades and respites from the harsh summer heat.

Fig 22

Fig 23

Closely placed houses in the city.

Entrance to a neighbourhood

The streets, then designed for horses, carts and bicycles, are sometimes just wide enough for two people to walk through.

Very often entry into a neighbourhood, would have an arched gate, built under a house, for the security from invaders.

Fig 24 Protruding horizontal shade and terrace. While Jodhpur has transformed over the years, few peculiar elements continue to be seen in the city.

2018