Enjoy Gardening Spring 2009

A garden is more than a thing to tend— it’s a destination

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learn interact enjoy

e n j o y g a r de n i n g

enjoygardening.com

F r o m J i m H o l e , p u b l i s h e r o f Lo i s ’ S pr ing Gar de ning

S P R I N G 20 0 9

Read interesting articles Watch gardening videos Meet the experts Browse best-selling books Explore plant profiles

PICNIC PERFECT recipes that will send you packing

& inspiring images

THE CUTTING GARDEN Set the stage for armfuls of fl wers

Celebrate all seasons Subscribe to Jim’s Notebook

discover the possibilities

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Jim Hole’s

S P R I N G I SSUE 20 0 9 $6.99 Printed in Canada

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BATHING BEAUTIES Garden fountains that make a splash

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enjoy life outside

enjoy Great Gardening Books from Hole’s

F e Av br ail ua ab ry le 20 09

inspired projects

by Li nda B odo

Lois Hole's Favorite Bulbs Better Choices, Better Gardens

By Lois Hole

Lois Hole’s Favorite Bulbs is both an ultimate get started guide for novice gardeners and a comprehensive reference for experienced bulb enthusiasts. Here you’ll find great advice on planting, growing and maintaining flowering bulbs.

You'll also find hundreds of tips on where and when to plant, advice on forcing and naturalizing and fascinating sidebars on bulb science and history. $24.95 • 5.5 x 8.5 • Softcover • Colour • 320 pages • ISBN 1-894728-00-9

Hole's Dictionary of Hardy Perennials The Buyer’s Guide for Professionals, Collectors & Gardeners Edited by Jim Hole

The perennial marketplace is larger than ever, with thousands of species and varieties from which to choose. Keeping track of perennials has become an awesome task—but the experts at Hole’s have a solution. Hole’s Dictionary of Hardy Perennials is the comprehensive guide, perfect for anyone who loves perennials, whether retailer, professional grower, breeder, collector, novice or veteran home gardener. $49.95 • 5.5 x 8.5 • Hardcover • 356 colour photos • 144 pages • ISBN 1-894728-01-7

15 dIY al f r es c o enc ou nters Repurpose, recycle and redefine your leisure time. The only challenge is deciding which project to start first Do-it-yourself guru Linda Bodo shares some of her favourite projects for your outdoor living spaces • 15 easy-to-follow projects • Concise step by steps • Materials lists, timelines, tools and more • Helpful construction tips • Straightforward colour photography and illustrations Discover your confidence, courage and creativity and become a DIY enthusiast!

Ordering Order these and other Hole’s publications online at www.holesonline.com • By Phone 1-888-884-6537

By Fax 780-459-6042 Hole’s • 101 Bellerose Drive St. Albert, Alberta • T8N 8N8

$21.95 • 9 x 10 • Softcover • Colour • 144 pages • ISBN 978-1-894728-08-9

Order online at www.holesonline.com

By Phone 1-888-884-6537

By Fax 780-459-6042

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58

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Stage

Three elev

ation

Create an Impression

Landscaping for Curb Appeal

By Maggie Clayton

Presenting 23 professionally designed landscape plans that allow gardeners the luxury of implementing designs stage‑by-stage according to time, budget and desire. $21.95 • 5.5 x 8.5 • Softcover • Colour • 256 pages • ISBN 978-1-894728-07-6

What Grows Here? Series What Grows Here?

Indoors

What Grows Here?

Volume 2: Problems

By Jim Hole

By Jim Hole

Favourite Houseplants for Every Situation Jim Hole takes the guesswork out of caring for houseplants by addressing issues concerning light, water, pests, diseases and more.

Complete with full-colour photography and in-depth plant listings, this book gives you the confidence to select the perfect houseplant for every situation.

Brimming with solid advice from one of Canada’s most accomplished gardening professionals, Problems tackles common gardening dilemmas: poor soil, pests, budget concerns and much more. Complete with detailed descriptions of plants you can count on to tackle the garden’s toughest challenges.

$21.95 • 5.5 x 8.5 • Softcover • Colour • 292 pages • ISBN 978-1-894728-06-5

$19.95 • 5.5 x 8.5 • Softcover • Colour • 264 pages • ISBN 1-894728-03-3

What Grows Here?

Volume 1: Locations

What Grows Here?

Volume 3: Solutions

By Jim Hole

By Jim Hole

Favorite Plants for Better Yards Jim Hole and his team of expert horticulturists present tried-and-true advice, examples to help you tailor your gardening approach and hundreds of today’s best plants, chosen to fill every conceivable location in the garden—including trouble spots. $19.95 • 5.5 x 8.5 • Softcover • Colour • 256 pages • ISBN 1-894728-02-5

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Favorite Plants for Better Yards

Favorite Plants for Better Yards Jim introduces the owners of 13 gardens in different stages of development, discusses the problems each faces and offers his expert advice on selecting the best plants for specific locations and conditions. Novice gardeners and seasoned experts alike will discover how to make a landscape their very own. $19.95 • 5.5 x 8.5 • Softcover • Colour • 264 pages • ISBN 1-894728-05-X

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ISSN 1916-095X

SPRING 2009

Published by Hole’s Greenhouses & Gardens Magazine Publisher

Jim Hole

Editor-in-Chief

Carmen D. Hrynchuk

Graphic Design

Dragich Design

Principal Photography

Akemi Matsubuchi

Image Manager

Christina McDonald

Contributors

Linda Bodo, Maggie Clayton

Staff Writers

Jean Coulton, Christina McDonald

Floral Designers

Lisa Alary, Liz Nobbs

Additional Styling

Nikki Stoyko

Advertising & Promotion Printing

Bill Hole

Quebecor World, Edmonton, Alberta, Canada

Distribution

Disticor Magazine Distribution Services

Hole’s Publishing Staff Publisher Publishing Manager Chief Horticulturist Editorial Advisory Group

Bill Hole Bruce Timothy Keith Jim Hole Jan Goodall, Dave Grice, Valerie Hole, Akemi Matsubuchi, Maggie Nielson, Stephen Raven, Bob Stadnyk, Marlene Willis

Enjoy Gardening is published twice-yearly by Hole’s Publishing.

It is available on newsstands across Canada. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the written consent of the publisher.

Cover Photography Akemi Matsubuchi

For more information on the magazine or advertising, please contact us at: 101 Bellerose Drive St. Albert, Alberta, Canada, T8N 8N8

Telephone 780-419-6800 Facsimile 780-459-6042 Subscriptions 1-888-884-6537

E-mail

Website www.enjoygardening.com editor@enjoygardening.com advertising@enjoygardening.com

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Letter from the Editor

Last summer, as I lay in bed on an unbearably hot night, I asked myself this age-old question: do dog poop and marijuana a garden make? Perhaps I should start at the beginning…

I live in an apartment. No. That’s not the beginning either. Wait, this will work: before I lived in an apartment, I lived in the country where I had a beautiful garden that I’d meander though on nights that were too hot for sleeping. Now I live in an apartment. In the city. Where I have no desire to be mistaken for a meanderer of the night. You’d think then that a balcony garden with an open window would provide the perfect respite for this real estatedeficient prairie girl. Yeah. So did I. Unfortunately—and it’s a big unfortunately— my upstairs neighbours have a dog that uses their balcony as a litter box. And because that concept is gross to everyone, including my neighbours, they take a hose and a push broom (that I hope never to meet) and diligently slosh the entire mess out of sight and out of mind. Their sight; their minds.

I, on the other hand, am greeted to the falling sheets of “rain” that a little something called gravity carries back toward the building, where it splatters onto my unassuming balcony and bounces into the apartment where I sit. It’s settled then. No balcony gardening for me. As much as that breaks my heart, it also leaves me with but one other refuge to the

outdoors—the window in my bedroom—which has the misfortune of being situated above the balcony of my other neighbours.

As my mother noted one night as she inquired as to what the sweet and skunky smell was wafting in through my window, my downstairs neighbours very much like to grow a little something of their own.

That little something (or more accurately, the getting up to prevent it from coming in my window) is what got me wondering if someone who didn’t touch a plant all year could still consider herself a gardener.

That night, as I took my cat, Pedro, out of the window and placed her in front of her cat food dish, I decided the answer was yes.

My garden—my real garden—is the one I remember. It’s the one I carry with me. My garden is the sound of a fresh snow pea snapping. The taste of the first chokecherry that betrayed me. The sum of all my experiences. Those nights in my apartment when I walk barefoot through my garden, I still know where every thistle is lurking, where the sweetest peas are on the fence, where the mole hole is in the potato row.

I’d know my garden anywhere. I can see it through my balcony window and on the darkest of moonless nights…which, unfortunately, tend to resemble the dilated pupils of my cat’s eyes.

Enjoy gardening.

—Carmen Hrynchuk

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reflect Plan

Learn

Discover

inspiration points

12

For the Birds A year-round bird sanctuary is just three steps away

20

The Cutting Garden Set the stage for armfuls of flower

the hot list

28

Jim Hole’s Favourite 100 Solutions Getting it right the first tim

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relax

Entertain Style Entice

reconnect Do

trend spotting

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Bathing Beauties

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A landscape architectural technologist offers real solutions to common landscape problems

second look

how do you do

Leaves of Grass

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A photographic flip through the world of grasse

Meld music and flowers in a delightful symphon

Get a Grip Simple ways to dress up bouquets

recipes

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Watered Down Wind Chimes with Linda Bodo

floral design

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Short Timelines.

Small Investments. with Maggie Clayton

A Weeping State Originality takes form in the garden

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Enrich

“real� estate

Garden fountains that make a splash

62

Change

Picnic Perfect Fresh and simple recipes that will send you packing

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A Work of Heart Hanging Basket with Linda Bodo Gallery style for the outdoors

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the path to enjoy

Tracing the Lines with Bruce Keith

The first thing I tend to do when faced with a big new project is to start drawing lines: timelines, deadlines, lines of communication, department lines. If you are a linear thinker, then you know what I mean.

It stands to reason then that building an entire new building with an entire new mandate and reworking of all core concepts would involve a lot of lines.

As a self-admitted linear thinker, I was sure it would be a lot of fun, yet somehow…I find myself starting to hate lines.

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A year ago last October, Bill Hole announced we would be closing our current greenhouse operation and be reopening the business in a new location. What we weren’t going to do, however, was open the same business.

No this was a new vision for a new generation. Not only would the building be using the latest in environmental technology, but all of our product lines and ideas of service would also be receiving a massive facelift. To some, this appeared a rather straightforward line from old to new. To others, it seemed an impossible task with no beginning and no end. To everyone, it meant appreciating that the convoluted elegance of a spider’s web may be made up of straight lines, but conceiving those lines as a finished product is almost impossible.

So where did we end up starting? With a timeline: at one end, the present; and at the other, the completed move. Of course, we still needed to define what that completion was, but it was pretty simple to visualize: here and there.

Next came reorganization. If we had a new building and a new vision, it was obvious that our jobs would

change. This too was pretty simple to plot out: we wrote down everyone’s name and job and drew up a new organizational chart. Of course the moment we finished structuring it became obvious that it wouldn’t work yet because we were still here, not there. That was okay, though. We would just wait. Except that we couldn’t wait because you can’t close down one organizational structure in one building and start the next day in a new one. It would mean chaos. So it was back to initiating changes, but slowly.

Next we took a look at processes and technology: what would we need to maintain our high standards of quality service? With a new mandate, new partners and new technology, it was obvious we could do things differently—maybe do them better. So we started looking into new technologies for growing plants, serving customers and handling information. We would roll out the new business with a fresh new view for how to get things done.

All this started in the first few months after Bill’s announcement, so we felt we had a pretty good grasp of

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the path to enjoy

what was facing us. We could see where we were and had a strong idea of where we wanted to be. Ignore the fussy details, and it was still a straight line from here to there.

As more and more details were added and as the question of who would be involved entered the picture, it became increasingly difficult to balance our new ideas.

Somewhere around that time it became apparent that we were moving from a “big small company” to a “small big company” and that some fundamental changes needed to be applied to our business structure.

For me things started to get interesting when we invited Bell Canada to give us a proposal on a digital signage system. A set of meetings with their sales people led to the involvement of their technology people, who introduced us to their structured wiring specialists, who said everything depends on the final business processes and brought in their ERP (Enterprise Resource Planning) specialists to help determine our business process needs. Well…this entailed analyzing our business process now (creating a baseline) and trying to look forward to how we wanted to do business (the target model) so that we could build a plan to get from now

to then. Little did I know that a simple inquiry about digital displays would set off an ever-increasing series of meetings that would involve more and more staff at each turn. I now realize investing in new technologies was a long-overdue task and one that has certainly added a new dimension to our evolution.

Next on the list of things to comprehend: architecture.

It was at this point that the entire staff began working with our architect to detail our requirements of the new building. That meant having to consider what we were doing now and what we wanted to be doing and how this was limited, influenced or affected by the physical space we were doing it in. Sound familiar? Because it really started to seem that the ERP meetings were covering much of the same territory in much of the same manner.

Every meeting we had, every decision we made—every new idea—seemed to open up huge new territory for change, expansion or improvement.

It’s all an amazing example of the cascading effect we’ve been experiencing over and over. And that’s the great thing about ideas: they often set off these chain reactions. The trouble, however, is that once they start

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going, you don’t actually get anything done if you don’t a draw the line somewhere and call a halt to it all. I’ve had to be reminded of this a few times already, and I anticipate many more reminders to come.

In the mean time, we in the communication end of things were also busy writing and building a series of presentations for staff, local governments, possible partners and, of course, for those long-standing partners and relationships that we hoped to continue to nurture.

Along with websites to build and newsletters to produce, this cascaded into a lot of side projects, including an internal web portal, a documentary, new book projects and even the idea of expanding the Enjoy Gardening magazine to encompass our new vision.

Now back to my lines. By this point, I had three or four major lines of work moving towards a 2010 deadline, in a more or less parallel fashion. I’d added in an increasing number of crossing lines to represent the existing departments that were now working together to help build a comprehensive new model. These new connections started to nurture even more offshoots as the dichotomy of “what is” versus “what will be” became

more complex. And let’s not forget all the deadlines and stop lines we encountered as we tried to focus on what was possible instead of what we wished was possible.

Add to that the timelines for our normal working year (everything from transplanting to publishing) and we found ourselves very busy.

What had started out as a straightforward timeline now resembled one of the more complex patterns I used to make with my Spirograph as a kid. And while the journey has been an amazing accomplishment so far, it now seems as indecipherable as a Jackson Pollock painting.

So where does that leave us today? Well, mostly with a new kind of line: a learning curve. Every week we learn something new, we make a new decision and we add a new line. And I guess that’s how we build all great things, one line at a time. By the time 2010 rolls around, there will be a brand new lineup: a new building, a host of new ideas, concepts and services, a new vision to satisfy consumers, a significant step toward environmental stewardship and, I’ll bet, a long line up of people who want to enjoy it along with us.

Bruce Keith runs the communications department at Hole’s.

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reflect Plan

Learn

Discover

inspiration points

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For the Birds A year-round bird sanctuary is just three steps away

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Food Water Shelter

The Cutting Garden Set the stage for armfuls of flower

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Act 1: Early Bloomers Act 2: Midseason Act 3: Late Bloomers the hot list

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Jim Hole’s Favourite 100 Solutions Getting it right the first tim

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inspiration points

Forthe Birds A year-round bird sanctuary is just three steps away Want to attract a host of feathered friends to your yard this year? Then go a little wild! Grass that’s a smidge overgrown, or dense shrubbery on the verge of needing pruning make welcoming habitats for birds. So let your yard get a bit natural around the edges. As you’re about to discover, attracting birds isn’t that difficult. All it takes is a little good hosting. To birds, that means welcoming them with food and water, then treating them to inviting accommodations. Food, water, shelter—it’s that simple. So dust off your field glasses and get a guidebook ready. You’re only a few steps away from a new infatuation.

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inspiration points

Food Feed them and they will come. Many birds are quite content to eat from a feeding station, but to create a truly nutritional and welcoming environment, it helps to do a little more. That “more” begins with providing an assortment of nutritional plants.

Seeds are highly desirable food sources; so don’t be too quick to deadhead your flowers. Good annual fare include bachelor’s button, cleome and marigold.

Perennials to note include astilbe, tickseed, sneezeweed, fleeceflower and stonecrop.

Berry-loving birds will appreciate such crops as strawberries, grapes,

sour cherries and saskatoons. In fact, if you’re not prepared to share all your berries, then protective netting is highly recommended.

Being bird friendly also means becoming more tolerant of insects—a primary energy source for many birds. If you must use pesticides, pick ones with the lowest toxicity to animals.

Despite our long winters, it’s possible to provide birds with a year-round buffet of natural options.

Simply select plants that hold their fruits or seeds. Trees and shrubs such as ornamental crabapple, mayday, mountain ash, dogwood (Above), snowberry, large-hipped roses and high bush cranberry all fit the bill. Ornamental grasses are also valuable winter seed sources.

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Hummingbirds Few birds are more mesmerizing than a hummingbird collecting nectar. The ruby-throated hummingbird is most common in our area, although the calliope and rufous species also nest in Alberta. Here’s how to attract them.

• Plant bright-red, pink or orange tubular-shaped flowers that have no scent. We recommend bleeding heart, foxglove, beebalm and honeysuckle.

• Provide nectar sources early in the spring. Set out greenhousegrown annuals, such as fuchsias,

nasturtiums and petunias. Providing feeders with sugar water will also supplement natural nectar sources and, if hung in the right spot, will allow you to view the birds at close range through a window.

• Make your plants highly accessible. That means grouping short plants at the front of a bed and keeping taller ones to the back. This will also help create both the shady and sunny spots that hummingbirds desire.

Fuchsia ‘Koralle’

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inspiration points

Water Burbling, trickling or splashing water is music to the ears of a bird. So a water feature, whether simple or complex, is the perfect backyard invitation. In fact, a water source may be the only way to attract birds such as warblers, which aren’t usually lured by feeding stations.

Getting It Right • Position your water feature near shrubbery. Birds require safe approaches to their drinking and bathing areas; trees and shrubs will provide that safe escape route when birds feel threatened.

• Consider the sightlines. Birds will spend a fair amount of time bathing and preening, so position your water feature where it will afford you a comfortable vantage point.

• Make it safe. Bird baths should be relatively shallow and preferably slope to a maximum depth of

Quick Tips

7.5 cm. The ideal diameter is about 45 cm. Bowls with rough bottoms will also prevent birds from slipping. To provide some protection from cats, choose a pedestal bird bath that’s at least 1 m high.

• Consider a recirculation pump.

The still water of a bird bath may be all the evian enticement a bird needs, but if you really want your feathered friends to take note, treat them to moving water.

• Frequently rinse out and replace the water. This is especially important during hot weather.

Occasionally, Note: Never clean give the a bird bath with insecticides or bird bath a algae-control thorough products; they are scrub, making toxic to birds. sure to thoroughly rinse out any soap.

• Provide open water in the winter.

Even though overwintering species of birds get all the moisture they need from snow, they are still very attracted to open water. To create that environment, purchase a bird bath with a builtin heater, or add an immersion water heater to a standard model.

If you’re a balcony gardener with limited space, consider purchasing an indoor tabletop fountain.

They’re just as attractive outdoors, and most of them are actually big enough for a bird to perch, clean and preen itself.

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inspiration points

Shelter Comfortable spaces make us feel safe and secure. For birds, that means dense layers of greenery. To create that layered environment, landscape your beds so that groupings of lower plants in the front give way to a thick understorey of tall plants in the back.

Did You Know?

Snags are very bird friendly.

So if you are lucky enough to have a dead tree in your yard, don’t remove it.

Woodpeckers love to drum or excavate roosting holes in them, and other birds will come looking for insects beneath the bark. Snags are also great for hanging feeders or birdhouses. If you worry that your dead tree may come down during a wind storm, top it at about three meters or brace it.

Here are some other factors to consider.

• Coniferous trees and/ or shrubs should be represented in the plantings. They are great sources of shelter and provide thermal protection during the winter. Also consider including native plants in your birdscape.

Not only are they familiar • The larger and more diverse a yard, the to birds, they are also more bird species it accepted food sources can accommodate. and nesting sites. Native But even a balcony white spruce and junipers in an urban setting are excellent choices. can appeal to birds, • Older neighbourhoods especially if it’s decked with mature trees tend to with densely planted have more wildlife than containers. Hanging newer developments have. baskets and planters have even been known to house robin nests.

Nesting Boxes Nest boxes (birdhouses) are big draws for secondary cavity nesters (birds that require holes but don’t normally excavate their own), such as chickadees, house wrens, nuthatches and tree swallows. On a big yard or acreage, a nest box may even attract common goldeneyes, buffleheads, American kestrels or northern saw-whet owls. Here’s how to select and mount a nesting box properly.

• Consider the size of the entrance hole. An entrance hole with a 29 mm diameter will exclude house sparrows but allow wrens and chickadees to nest. If European starlings are a problem, don’t uses boxes that have entrances of 42 mm or larger.

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• The roof should have a 5-cm overhang for shade, protection from rain and predatory birds. Ventilation holes near the top and floor drainage holes are also required.

One panel of the box needs to open for observation and fall debris removal.

• Prevent predator problems by selecting boxes without perches.

• Mount the nest box on a post or tree, being sure to face the entrance hole away from the prevailing wind.

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inspiration points

The

Cutting Garden Set the stage for armfuls of flowers

Gardening is gratifying as a purely outdoor pursuit, but fresh-cut bouquets extend that pleasure to the indoors. The trick, however, is figuring out how to keep the flowers coming. Fortunately, our growing season provides a natural guide that unfolds like a three-act play that stars early, mid, and late bloomers. As director, your job is to cast the right players and to get their entrances down. Tricky? A little, but the information that follows will soon have your confidence soaring. From tips on forcing spring branches to plant recommendations for a fall harvest, we’ve got what you need to know. So get your vases ready. Spring is just around the corner, and the show is about to begin.

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inspiration points

Act 1: Early Bloomers Expand your definition of cutflowers and not even the snow will stop you from bringing in the outdoors. To get the ultimate jump on the flower season, force the buds on branches of ornamental shrubs, willows and fruit trees. Once brought indoors, pussy willows and forsythia usually take one to three weeks to open; crabapples, apples, Nanking cherries and mockoranges take three to five. Here’s what you need to know.

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Forcing Branches 1. When temperatures rise above freezing, grab your pruning shears and head outdoors. Select and cut plump branches that are 1–2 cm in diameter and covered in buds.

2. Bring branches indoors, and use bypass pruners or a sharp knife to recut each stem at an angle. Next, cut a vertical slit (4–6 cm) in the bottom of each branch.

3. Place branches in a container of warm water, being sure to remove any twigs or buds that are below the waterline. Floral preservative may be added to the water to inhibit bacterial growth.

As spring really begins to break, crocuses, daffodils and snowdrops make way for the ultimate cutflowers: tulips. Besides coming in an infinite range of colours, their varietal ranges and bloom times mean you can enjoy them for nearly 22 enjoygardening three months. The parrot and viridiflora groups have the longest vase life (up to 10 days!). Alliums (which are fall-planted bulbs) and

4. Place the branch-filled container in cool room (about 18°C) that’s free of bright light. If humidity is low, cover the arrangement with a plastic bag or mist it regularly. Change the water every other day.

5. When flowers begin to open, recut the stems and move the arrangement to a bright room (but not directly in front of a sunny window).

6. Enjoy an early spring indoors.

Forsythia

Siberian irises (which are rhizomes) also make excellent additions to a spring cutting garden.

For northern gardeners, perennials are often a main source of early cutflowers, many of which just can’t be found in floral shops.

Some of our favourites are bleeding hearts, English daisies (Above right) and heartleaf forget-me-nots. Don’t forget bluebells, lily of the valley,

clustered bellflowers, Solmon’s seal and columbines (Above left). For late spring performers try, peonies, delphinium(Above middle), sweet William and lady’s mantle.

When it comes to selecting spring annuals, frost-tolerance is a must.

Pansies and snapdragons are great choices but should be transplanted rather than sown so that they bloom by late spring.

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1. Iris (Iris spp.)

2. Tulip (Tulipa spp.)

3. Delphinium (Delphinium)

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inspiration points

Act 2: Midseason Function trumps form—or at least it does when it comes to dedicating space for an annual cutting garden. Remember the space you're creating isn’t being designed for attractiveness, it’s meant to grow a bountiful crop that can be stripped at harvest. Here are some basic tips to guide you.

Getting It Right • Choose a sunny location. Remember that most flowerbearing plants require full sun for maximum production, so situate them accordingly.

• Prepare the soil. Organically rich soil is essential, so prepare your patch properly. Cultivate or rototill the soil so that it’s loose and free of large clumps. Amend if necessary and rake the soil to create a level garden.

• Plant in rows. Rows provide easy access for harvesting and make maintenance tasks, such as staking and watering, much easier.

• Group plants according to height. Place shorter plants to the south or west of taller ones to ensure they all get enough sun.

Quick Tips

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Roses as Cutflowers

• Many hardy roses are too delicate to make good cutflowers.

Tender roses (such as hybrid tea, English and grandifloras) are better choices because they have thick, almost waxy petals that stand up to handling.

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• Shorter stems mean more bouquets. If you cut long stems from your rose bushes, you will delay future blooms and get fewer over the growing season.

• If cut when too tight, rosebuds may never open. Petal numbers dictate the stage at which you should harvest. Single roses should be picked before they open. One or two outer petals should be loose on semi-double and smaller double varieties. With larger doubles (35 or more petals) allow three or four petals to separate from the bud before snipping. Roses will generally last for 7 to 10 days if cut at the proper stage.

• If possible, water your rose bushes the day before you plan to collect a bouquet. Harvest early in the day.

• If you choose to remove the thorns from your flowers before you arrange them, try not to damage the stem. Simply remove thorns by pushing them sideways with your thumb.

1. Zinnia 1. Zinnia (Zinnia (Zinnia elegans) elegans) 2. Kangaroo 2. Kangaroo Paw Paw (Anigozanthos) (Anigozanthos) 3. Asiatic 3. Asiatic Lily Lily (Lilium) (Lilium) 4. Snapdragon 4. Snapdragon (Anthirrhinum) (Anthirrhinum) 5. Cockscomb 5. Cockscomb Celosia Celosia (Celosia (Celosia cristata) cristata) 6. Carnation 6. Carnation (Dianthus (Dianthus caryophyllus) caryophyllus) 7. Freesia 7. Freesia (Fressia (Fressia xx hybrida) hybrida) 8. Gerbera 8. Gerbera Daisy Daisy (Gerbera (Gerbera jamesonii) jamesonii) 9. Bells 9. Bells of of Ireland Ireland (Moluccella (Moluccella laevis) laevis) 10. Hydrangea 10. Hydrangea (Hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla) macrophylla)

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In our area, annuals are the stars, whether sown or grown from seedlings. During mid-season, great showmen such as calendula, gerbera daisies and zinnias are at their peak. Also at their best are cosmos and salpiglossis, which will bloom all summer if constantly harvested. If dry floral arrangements are to

your liking, don't foret to plant baby’s breath, celosia and bells of Ireland.

Not to be forgotten from the mid-season spotlight are perennials such as Asiatic lilies, astilbes and scabiosa. For support to the main players, look to foliage from hostas, heucheras, bugbanes and ferns.

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inspiration points

Act 3: Late Season Finales with flourish are what everyone wants. And that’s exactly what you’ll get with well-executed scheduling. In late summer to fall, reap rewards from spring-planted bulbs, such as dahlias and gladioli. From petite to dinner-plate sized, dahlias are spectacularly showy. They are, however, somewhat temperamental. But even with their intolerance for stress and frost, they are absolutely worth the effort. Flower production is directly related to the health of a dahlia, so provide consistent care, deadheading regularly and watering during dry spells.

As for gladioli, their tropicallooking blooms come in a wide array of colours and have a vase life of up to two weeks.

As the season continues to progress, rich and vibrant fall colours lead in the cutting garden. Among the favourites are sunflowers, goldenrod, strawflowers and coneflowers.

Annual and perennial asters are other crowd pleasers.

Unusual forms such as perennial globe thistle also take their rightful position at centre stage.

Rounding out the final 1 performers are seed heads from grasses, seed pods from flowers and trees, and berried branches from dogwoods, elders and nannyberries.

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1. Ornamental Pepper (Capsicum annum) 2. Goldenrod (Solidago) 3. Coneflower Echinacea) seed head 4.. Sunflower Helianthus annuus) 5. Stonecrop (Sedum) 6. Gladioli (Gladiolus x hortulanus) 7. Dahlia (Dahlia rosea) 8. Perennial Aster (Aster)

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Quick Tips Best Practices

• Flower cutting is best done in the morning, before the heat of the day, or in the early evening. There are some exceptions, but most flowers should be harvested just as they begin to open.

• Ensure that all tools and containers are clean and sterilized; it will inhibit bacterial growth.

• Take a bucket of warm water out to the garden with you and pop the freshly cut flowers directly into it.

• Do not crush the stems when cutting. The tool of choice is a knife, although bypass pruners or sharp scissors can be used.

• Remove any foliage that will be below the waterline. This will inhibit bacterial growth in the vase and, consequently, make the flowers last longe .

• Condition the flowers before you arrange them. Recut the stems at an angle to improve water uptake, and place them in a container of warm water (half the stem length should be submerged). Let the flowers recover for a minimum of one hour and a maximum of overnight. This process insures that the stems are full of water, which means a longer vase life.

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the hot list

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100 Solutions

Favourite Jim Hole’s

Getting it right the first tim Plants are amazing and tenacious organisms. After all, they grow all over the world in the most diverse and extreme of conditions. So then, how is it possible that our yards could pose such challenges when it comes to finding the right plant for a tricky spot? Well, they just do. Fortunately, there’s help. Over the years I’ve discovered there are very few situations where a little research and willingness to experiment didn’t lead me straight to the right answer. And it’s those very answers that I’m sharing in this issue. It’s all here—everything from landscaping solutions to tips for improving your gardening technique. So get ready to get it right. Start by spending some time with my favourite solutions and then give that problem area another try. It’s time to enjoy gardening!

Jim Hole

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Echinocystis lobata Mock Cucumber Vine The spiny fruits on this vine are key to identifying it as a member of the gourd family, albeit a very tall specimen. Decorated with corkscrew tendrils, this vine also has large leaves seated on long petioles. Star-shaped foliage can be up to 15 cm long. Strings of creamy flowers form where the leaves join the stems. Only one flower in each panicle is female. Ornamental fruit is about 5 cm long. Prefers moist soils.

A native North American plant found along banks of streams and rivers; perennial in more temperate zones. Height: up to 6 m; spacing: 25–30 cm. Sun. 30 enjoygardening

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Great Climbers

Solutions

I love the versatility of climbing plants. Use them to cover an unattractive fence, a tatty old shed or the unappealing foundation of a house. Want to divide your yard into rooms but don’t have space for trees? Put up a free-standing trellis and grow an annual vine on it. For a more permanent option, plant a perennial climbing rose at its base. No room for a trellis? Simply stick a fence post in the ground, cover it with chicken wire and you’ve got your very own modern art instalment—a garden exclamation point of sorts! So beat the horizontal blues this season. There’s no better place to start than here.

Annuals Cobaea scandens ‘Purple’ Cup & Saucer Vine Create a great screen with the thick and lush foliage of this vine. This fast-growing annual is best known for its large, cup-shaped flowers and the reen calyxes that form its saucer. The papery buds emerge a light green shade and mature to a dark purple. Foliage and tendrils are shaded purple. Blooms summer to frost. Wind tolerant but will scorch in extremely hot sun. Height: up to 3 m; spacing: 25–30 cm. Sun.

Lathyrus odoratus ‘Incense Mix’ Sweet Pea Sweet peas are a traditional choice that never fail to please.

Bicolours and solids make up this mix, all of which are beautifully ruffled and intensely fra rant. Long-stemmed blooms make great cutflowers. ast-growing and vining habit suited to flowerbeds or trellised areas. Height: up to 1.2 m; spacing: 10–20 cm. Sun.

Tropaeolum peregrinum Canary Bird Vine The bright-yellow flowers on this annual climber practically take flight. erfect for impatient gardeners, it soars up to 4 m high, providing almost instant coverage. Touch sensitive and will wrap itself around whatever support is available—an ideal choice for a trellis. Its flowers, fruit and young leaves are edible and have a peppery taste much like its relative the nasturtium. Deeply divided, palmshaped foliage. The 1-cm flowers consist of two fringed upper petals and three small lower petals. Excellent performer. Height: up to 4 m; spacing: 25–30 cm. Sun.

Phaseolus coccineus ‘Scarlet Runner’ Pole Bean Plants with multiple purposes are always a fantastic option, especially if you’re trying to optimize space. Pole beans have it all covered: a vigorous climbing habit, ornamental appeal, brilliant scarlet flowers that attract hummingbirds and they’re a tasty vegetable, too! Grow them on a potted obelisk, near a fence or on a trellis. Green, 15-cm beans are ready to harvest in about 65 days. Height: 2–3+ m; spacing: 15–25 cm. Sun. enjoygardening 31

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Humulus lupulus ‘Aureus’

Perennials Clematis ‘Paul Farges’ (syn. ‘Summer Snow’) Hardy Clematis If you’re looking for a species variety of clematis that will flourish in northern gardens, try ‘Paul Farges.’ It grows back on old wood and will cover large areas of a fence or wall. It can also be planted to scramble through large open trees. Alternatively, use as a groundcover. Fragrant white flowers appear in summe .

Prune, only as needed, in spring. Prefers fertile, well-drained soil.

Height: 5–6 m; width: 2 m. Sun to p.m. sun.

Common Hops This hearty climber needs strong support to accommodate its mass during the growing season but dies back to the ground for the winter. The coarse-looking leaves of this variety are golden and need strong sun to keep their yellow hue. Only female vines produce cones (used to make beer), and a male plant is needed for pollination. However, plants are not sold sexed. Prefers well-drained, moist soil rich in organic matter. Height: 3–4 m; width: 2–3+ m. Sun.

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Great Climbers

Solutions

Lonicera x brownii ‘Dropmore Scarlet’

Trees & Shrubs Actinidia arguta ‘Issai’ Kiwi Vine The glossy leaves of this rambler add textural richness to any setting.

Unlike many varieties, this kiwi vine is self-pollinating and produces fragrant white blooms in late spring.

A novelty fruiting vine, it will start to bear fruit one to two years after planting. The green fruit is 2–3 cm in length, rich in vitamin C and matures in the fall. Also known as baby or hardy kiwi, the fruit is not hairy like the tropical kiwi. Requires moist soil. Height: 3–4 m; width: 1–1.5 m. Sun to p.m. sun.

Vitis riparia Grape If you’re going for height, this grape is top of its class. A superior option for a free-standing arbour because it’s a hardy native grape, which means there will be little to no dieback. Also makes a masterful screen. Cream blooms appear in June.

Waxy blue fruit is 6–15 mm in diameter and good for jelly. Hardy to Zone 2 with winter protection.

Provide deep, well-drained soil. Height: up to 15 m; width: 1–1.5 m. Sun.

Honeysuckle If you want to attract butterflies and humming birds to your yard, this vine’s bright-scarlet and trumpet-shaped flowers are bound to get it done. An ideal variety for northern gardeners who require hardiness. Produces clusters of blooms from June to September. Grows well on an arbour or trellis; don’t cut back in fall. Prefers moist, well-drained soil. Height: 3–4 m; width: 1–2 m. Sun to p.m. sun.

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Solutions

10 Tips for

Backyard Composting There’s no better way to help the environment and improve the health of your plants than by composting your garden and kitchen waste. Simply put, compost is the best soil conditioner around.

Getting It Right 1. Pick the right composter for your needs. Small, tumbling composters are great if space is at a premium, but a row of two or three bins allows you to have compost at different stages of development.

2. Pick the right location. Compost breaks down faster in an area with lots of sunlight and good air circulation.

3. Put the right material in the bin. Organic materials and kitchen scraps (teabags, coffee filters and vegetable peelings) are all compostable, but fats (such as oils), dairy products and anything containing meat are not. Also avoid adding weeds that have gone to seed or any part of a diseased plant.

4. Chop up those scraps. The finer the items going into the bin, the faster they decompose. Use your mower to run over leafy debris.

5. Use the right mix. Green material rich in nitrogen (fresh plant materials) and brown material rich in carbon (dead plant material) are best kept at a 50:50 ratio.

6. Layer materials. Start your bin with a base of twigs or coarse material. Add a layer of dry brown material, followed by a layer of moist green material. Top it with a shovel or two of garden soil, and repeat the layers.

7. Turn that pile. Turning the pile every week or two to work oxygen into the centre of the mix results in faster decomposition.

8. Keep the compost moist. The compost should feel as moist as a wrung out sponge. Add moisture when you are turning, or leave the lid off when it rains.

9. Check the pile’s temperature. If the pile is large enough and has sufficient oxygen and moisture, the micro-organisms inside it will produce heat. A warm compost pile is a working compost pile.

10. Use the finished product. Sprinkle compost on your lawn, place it around the base of trees and shrubs, and dig it into your garden.

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Fragrant Favourites Scent has the remarkable ability to trigger memories. For me it’s all about carnations. I can’t smell their spicy fragrance without conjuring images of the patch that grew just outside my parents’ door. The plants that follow also produce fragrant blooms. Perhaps one of them will jog your memory, too.

Annuals Matthiola bicornis Evening Scented Stock Unassuming in appearance, the single lilac flowers of this annual punctuate the evening air with the smell of freshly baked gingersnaps. Optimize your enjoyment of their sweet fragrance by planting them near a window or doorway. Their airy and unkempt growth habit is best suited to mass plantings or the middle of borders where shorter plants can disguise their bases. Prefers cooler climates; performs well in northern gardens. Height: 35–40 cm; spacing: 10–15 cm. Sun.

Rosemarinus officinalis Rosemary One touch is all it takes to release savoury notes from the needle-like foliage of this aromatic herb. In more temperate climates (Zone 6 or higher), rosemary is an evergreen perennial, albeit a short-lived one. This favourite performs admirably as an upright annual with a bushy habit. For best flavou , harvest leaves just before blooms open. Flowers are also edible. Can be brought indoors and over-wintered.

Prefers light, well-drained soil.

Height: 30–100 cm; width 30–60 cm. Sun.

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Solutions

Perennials Thymus ‘Hartington Silver’ (syn. ‘Highland Cream’) Thyme Thyme comes from the Greek word thyo, meaning to perfume.

And the aromatic leaves of this perennial do exactly that—perfume the air with their distinctive notes. What sets this thyme variety apart from many others is its green and gold foliage. Withstands light foot traffic, which will release even more aroma. Pale-pink flowers.

Creeping habit; suitable for rock gardens. Tolerates poor, dry sites once established. Prefers neutral to alkaline and welldrained soil. Height: 8 cm; width: 30+ cm. Sun.

Dianthus gratianopolitanus ‘Tiny Rubies’ Cheddar Pink Richly clove scented, these pinks produce an abundance of deep-pink flowers in spring. he double blooms are held above a clump of evergreen leaves, which are needle shaped. Do not cut back; avoid winter wet. Prefers moist, alkaline and well-drained soil. Height: 10–15 cm; width: 30–40 cm. Sun.

Bulbs Hyacinthus orientalis ‘Festival Blue’ Hyacinth A single hyacinth spike can fill an entire room with its heady aroma. This variety produces multiple stems of lilac-blue flowers. Each spike is densely packed with waxy, fully double flowers and has four to seven long, narrow leaves. Excellent for forcing indoors. Large groups of this fall-planted bulb make a great visual impact.

Hardy to Zone 4 when planted in a sheltered location (along a heated building’s foundation) and mulched.

Avoid locations that get too hot and dry during summer dormancy months. Height: 30–40 cm. Sun to p.m. sun.

Lavandula angustifolia ‘Munstead’ True Lavender Fields of lavender in full bloom are arresting not only to the eye but also to one’s sense of smell. Capture some of that magic in your own yard with a smaller grouping. This is one of the hardiest lavender varieties available but still requires a sheltered location in Zone 4 or lower. Evergreen foliage. Prefers moderately fertile and welldrained soil. Bushy habit. Height: 30–45 cm; width: 45–60 cm. Sun. enjoygardening 37

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Rosa ‘Neptune’ Hybrid Tea Rose Thick with classic old-rose aroma, ‘Neptune’ will wow you with its intensity.

Outstanding double blooms have lavender petals tipped with purple. Double blooms are 11–14 cm in width and are produced from summer to frost. This tea rose has glossy-green leaves, good vigour and a dense bushy habit. Requires winter protection and rich, moist soil. Height: 1 m; width: 60–90 cm. Sun.

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Fragrant Favourites

Solutions

Trees & Shrubs Daphne x burkwoodii ‘Carol Mackie’

Syringa x hyacinthiflora ‘Mount Baker’

Daphne Intoxicating, spiced-honey notes emanate from the soft-pink blooms of this daphne. The abundant star-shaped flowers are very enticing but so too are the fine-textured, reen leaves with cream borders. It’s a worthy choice for a feature shrub. Blooms late spring to early summer; often has bright-red berries in fall. Prune after flowering. Prefers moist, humus-rich and well-drained soil.

Height: 90 cm; width: 90 cm.

Sun to a.m. sun.

Lilac Old-fashioned favourites should never be overlooked, and ‘Mount Baker’ is no exception. Not only will you get magnificently fragrant, single, white flowers, you’ll also get a vigorous, hardy plant that’s virtually trouble free.

And what you won’t get with this variety is suckering. If necessary, prune after flowering. Prefers well-drained soil. Height: 3–4 m; width: 3–4 m. Sun to p.m. sun.

Tilia cordata Little-leaf Linden Linden trees are an anomaly because of their uncommon bloom time. The yellow flowers exude an essential oil that’s often described as warm and honey-like, with a slightly citrus note.

The little-leaf linden also has a fine pyramidal shape on a very straight trunk, making it a spectacular specimen tree. Lustrous, dense foliage also means it is a good shade tree. Tolerant of a wide variety of soil conditions, it performs best in moist, well-drained soil. Blooms June to July. Height: 10–14 m; width: 9–10 m. Sun to p.m. sun.

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Sensational Spreaders In my books, a “spreader” is a plant that fills an area fairly quickly. And, if you’ve ever developed a new landscape and watched your valuable topsoil stream toward the gutters during a rainstorm, you’ll know why speed is important. Rate of spread is relative to the category of plant. Generally speaking, annuals and perennials grow much faster than, say, an evergreen. But in the world of evergreens, some grow faster than others. Still, if filling space quickly is your priority, don’t shy away from some of the slower-growing options. Simply use annual spreaders as temporary placeholders until your permanent plantings fill out.

Perennials

Expert Advice

Natural Invasiveness Some plants were just meant to conquer a space, and sometimes that’s just what you need. When positioned and contained properly, they can be an invaluable addition to a landscape. And if one gets out of hand, you can always divide and conquer.

Artemisia ludoviciana ‘Valerie Finnis’ Western Sage As with many silver-toned plants, western sage is drought tolerant. This clump-forming perennial also has fragrant foliage. Good for dried arrangements. Prune hard in spring to maintain form. Prefers alkaline, lean, well-drained soil that is fairly dry. Height: 45–60 cm; width: 60+ cm. Sun.

Epimedium x rubrum Bishop’s Hat Sophisticated good looks coupled with reliability and durability make this plant a true winner. Young foliage is tinted red and turns bronze in fall. The heart-shaped leaves are held on wiry stems. Epimedium is a good groundcover for slopes, under trees or in other spots with open shade. Delicate rubyred flowers in spring. ill tolerate dry shade (because its rhizomes hold moisture) but performs best in moist, well-drained soil with good organic content. Long-lived perennial.

Height: 25–40 cm; width: 30–45 cm. Shade.

Geranium x cantabrigiense ‘Cambridge’ Cranesbill Appeal to your senses with the aromatic foliage of this cranesbill that turns a bright red in fall. Use as a groundcover in a large rock garden, or grow it beneath shrubs. Mauve-pink flowers bloom from spring to early summe .

Mound-forming. Tolerates some shade and poor soils but prefers well-drained conditions.

Height: 15 cm; width: 45 cm. Sun to p.m. sun.

Veronica prostrata ‘Trehane’ Harebell Speedwell Create a reflection of the sky with the masses of deep-blue flowers that swathe this speedwell. his charming plant forms a spreading mat that’s perfect for sunny rock gardens or scree beds. Spikes of flowers in late spring to early summer highlight lime-green foliage. Prefers well-drained, organic, gritty soil.

Height: 10–20 cm; width: 30–45 cm. Sun to p.m. sun.

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Solutions Lysimachia punctata ‘Alexander’

Vinca minor ‘La Grave’ (syn. ‘Bowles’ Blue’)

Circle Flower Need a visual break from solid green? Then veer to variegated varieties, such as this circle flowe . It has an upright form and yellow flowers that are star-shaped and cupped. Blooms from mid to late summer.

Spreads by means of rhizomes.

Can be invasive and may need to be contained in moist locations.

Deadhead to reduce self-seeding.

Prefers organically rich, moist and well-drained soil. Height: 50–75 cm; width: 45–60+ cm.

Sun to p.m. sun.

Periwinkle The lavender-blue colour we know as periwinkle takes its name from the pinwheelshaped flowers of this plant.

It’s an evergreen perennial that blooms from late spring to fall.

Rich-green foliage creates a lush mat and will root at the nodes.

Best grown in partial shade with moderately moist soil. Avoid dry soil. Height: 5–10 cm; width 60+ cm. Sun or shade.

Trees & shrubs Arctostaphylos uva-ursi Kinnikinnick Kinnikinnick is handsome, low maintenance and ground-hugging with glossy, evergreen leaves. Also known as bearberry, it has fragrant bell-shaped flowers. he blooms are white with a pink tinge and appear in spring. They later develop into red berries. Foliage turns bronze to reddish in fall. Displays intricate branching with a mat-forming habit.

Native to northern boreal areas around the globe, although in North America it is found as far south as Californian and Virginia. Drought tolerant once established. Prefers moist, acidic and well-drained soil.

Height: 10–15 cm; width: 45–60 cm.

Sun to p.m. sun.

Cotoneaster perpusillus Rock Cotoneaster Lovely used en masse on slopes or banks. This cotoneaster is a pleasing groundcover that works in a variety of locations. Shiny, dark-green leaves on a dense, spreading form. Showy red berries follow small light-pink flowers. Requires snow cover and well-drained soil. Height: 60–90 cm; width: 1.5 m. Sun to p.m. sun.

Salix nakamurana var. yezoalpina Yellow Bud Willow Native to Japan, this willow takes on a bonsai look, thanks to its thick stems. New growth is covered with white hairs that give it a silky, silvery appearance. Upright, yellow catkins in early spring set the stage for a repeat performance of yellow colour in the fall. Intertwining branches with fat, brown buds provide good winter interest. A great creeping groundcover. Prefers moist soil.

Height: 10 cm; width: 90 cm. Sun.

Stephanandra incisa ‘Crispa’ Cutleaf Stephanandra A first-rate anchoring plant with branches that root where they touch the soil. Stephanandra is splendid on slopes or spilling over rocks. Its wavy, lobed foliage is red-bronze in spring, turns green in summer and then redorange in fall. Tiny greenish-white blooms appear in summer. Height: 30–60 cm; width: 1–2 m. Sun to p.m. sun. enjoygardening 41

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Great Shade Plants In my experience, it’s not enough to simply state that a plant requires shade because shade can be described in degrees: deep and impenetrable or, perhaps, dappled and dancing. Shade also appears at different times of day and, therefore, has varied temperatures (just think of cool morning shade or the reverse, muggy afternoon shade.) Shade may occur in conditions where the soil is frightfully dry (such as under the overhang of a roof) or where it never seems to dry out (the boggy patch between the back fence and the garage). Understanding shade may seem complicated at first, but all it takes is a little know-how.

Getting It Right If you find gardening in low-light challenging, get to know the shade in your patch of paradise a little better.

• Observe your garden’s light conditions throughout the day.

• Stick your finger knuckle-deep into the soil to gauge the moisture level.

• Take note of what is growing of its own volition. If nary a weed appears, consider attractive mulch and an engaging piece of statuary. However, if the area has enough light to support growth, consider one or more of my favourites.

Annuals Begonia x tuberhybrida ‘Salmon’ Tuberous Begonia, Nonstop® Series Given very little light, there are few annuals that bloom more profusely than tuberous begonias. ‘Salmon’ is a lovely soft orange and one of many colours in this proven series. Provides a continuous show of large double blooms; just remember to keep the soil consistently moist. Tubers also prefer cool soil. Mounding habit makes them a perfect choice for hanging baskets. Height: 20–25 cm; spacing: 15–25 cm. Shade to a.m. sun.

Coleus ‘Amora’ Vegetative Coleus Shady corners come alive with this coleus. Striking buttercoloured foliage with scalloped-green edges and pink veins inject the garden with colour and personality. A spectacular plant in mass displays; equally impressive as an accent in containers.

Give it even moisture if grown in sun. Height: 40–45 cm; width: 35 cm. Shade or sun.

Oxalis vulcanicola ‘Zinfandel’™ Oxalis Delicate and delightful, the bronzy-purple foliage of this oxalis makes it an ideal choice to contrast yellows and oranges. Its bellshaped flowers are yellow and about 1 cm in diamete . It has a mounded and semi-trailing habit. Self-cleaning. Superb in mixed planters or hanging baskets. Sterile. Height: 20–25 cm; width: 20 cm. Shade to a.m. sun.

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Bulbs Colchicum ‘Lilac Wonder’ Autumn Crocus Despite its common name, this corm is not actually related to the crocus, although it blooms in the fall and has crocus-like flowers. he single, violet blooms have slender petals. Leaves appear in early spring and die back before flowers emerge. erforms well in light dappled shade and in organic, well-drained soil. Plant in late summer to early fall to a depth of 10–15 cm and about 15 cm apart.

Height: 15–20 cm. a.m. sun.

Perennials Alchemilla mollis Lady’s Mantle An exceptionally long bloom period sets this perennial apart from many others.

But what endears it to many is its ability to thrive in dry shady sites. It has limegreen flowers and slightly lobed leaves that are quite large. Blooms late spring to fall; flowers dry well. olerates a wide range of soils but prefers well-drained conditions. Clump-forming. Height: 45 cm; width: 45 cm. a.m. sun.

Astilbe japonica ‘Bonn’ Astilbe This perennial excels in the cool shadows of damp woodland or waterside gardens. ‘Bonn’ produces carmine rose-coloured plumes that hold their signature form for an extended period. These clump-forming plants are heavy feeders, so provide moist, fertile, alkaline-free soil that’s rich in organic material. Will tolerate more sun if conditions are moist. Height: 45–60 cm; width: 45–60 cm. Shade to a.m. sun.

Astrantia major ‘Lars’ Great Masterwort Astrantia major is a real star in the shade garden, particularly because it is easy to grow. The Latin name refers to its star-shaped flowers, which are a deep-wine colour on this variety.

Summer blooms are good for cutting or drying. Clump-forming. Prefers moist, fertile, organic soil. Height: 50–65 cm; width: 45–60 cm. Sun or shade.

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Athyrium filix-femina ‘Frizelliae’ Lady Fern Add texture and a sense of movement to any planting with this distinctive fern. Emerging bright-green fronds have a beaded look. Each leaflet opens to a tiny, rounded fan shape.

The leaflets alternate along the stem, creating the look of knots and loops and earning it its other common name—tatting fern.

Fronds are long but less than 2.5 cm wide. This deciduous fern is ideal in a woodland location.

Early dormancy will occur if not kept moist. Likes fertile, neutral to acidic soil rich in organic matter. Height: 35–40 cm; width: 30–40 cm. Shade to a.m. sun.

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Great Shade Plants

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Filipendula multijuga (syn. F. palmata ‘Nana’) Dwarf Siberian Meadowsweet Plant meadowsweet and let the sweet scent of summer drift to you from the cool shadows of your garden. The fragrant flowers of this variety are deep pink. Its airy heads are held atop tall stalks and lovely fern-like foliage. A clump-forming perennial that likes welldrained, moist and organically rich soil.

Height: 60–100 cm; width: 45–60 cm.

Shade to a.m. sun.

Heuchera ‘Obsidian’ Alumroot This alumroot’s exceptionally dark and shiny foliage will catch your eye in even the dimmest garden corner. Its nearly black leaves and compact habit look extremely stylish displayed en masse or in mixed containers. This great performer holds its colour all season and produces tiny, green-white flowers on 60-cm stalks in summer. Prefers moist, fertile, well-drained soil. Height: 25 cm; width: 30–40 cm. Shade to a.m. sun.

Gentiana asclepiadea Gentian Gentians are prized for their stunning blue blooms, and this one’s no exception. Flowering from summer to fall, it grows well with ferns and other shade favourites in woodland conditions.

A long-lived, clump-forming plant. If propagated by seed, it will take up to three years to flowe . Requires moist, well-drained, organically rich soil. Height: 40–60 cm; width: 30–45 cm. Shade to a.m. sun.

Hosta ‘June’ Hosta In a gardener’s lexicon, hosta and shade are nearly synonymous. ‘June’ is a medium-sized variety with thick but fairly narrow leaves that are bright yellow with a streaky blue-green margin. As with most hostas, its lily-like flowers are pale lilac and appear in midsummer. Given more moisture, any hosta will tolerate brighter light conditions. Performs best in moist, fertile, slightly acidic and well-drained soil that’s high in organic material. Height: 40 cm; width: 95 cm.

Shade to a.m. sun.

Ligularia dentata ‘Othello’ Rayflowe In summer, dramatic yellow-orange flowers appear in loose-branched clusters high above the foliage. New leaves emerge purplish-red and mature to more green tones. The undersides, however, remain purple, as do the veins, petioles and flower stalks. Kidney-shaped leaves are toothed and leathery and can be up to 1 m wide. Mass plantings look spectacular in woodland gardens, boggy areas or near water features. Requires moderately fertile but very moist soil.

Height: 90–120 cm; width: 60–90 cm.

Shade to a.m. sun.

Bergenia cordifolia ‘Solar Flare’ Bergenia Bergenia is a reliable old standby with sturdy semi-evergreen foliage. What sets this one apart is the variegation of its leathery leaves. The wide, cream edges develop pink tones in cooler temperatures. Variegation is enhanced in late summer when the mature leaves turn a deeper green. Clustered pink flowers on stalks in spring. Do not cut back in fall. olerates a wide range of light conditions and soil types. Most robust growth occurs in moist, well-drained soil and light-shade conditions. Height: 25–30 cm; width: 30–45 cm. Sun or shade. enjoygardening 45

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Great Shade Plants

Saxifraga x arendsii Mossy Saxifrage Mossy saxifrage is an eminently popular choice for shady rock gardens.

Nevertheless, don’t forget that it won’t tolerate dryness. This evergreen perennial forms attractive clumps within two or three years. It also produces petite, pink spring blooms. Prefers a moist, cool site, sheltered from the hot afternoon sun. Provide organically rich and well-drained soil. Height: 15 cm; width: 20–30 cm. Shade to a.m. sun.

Primula denticulata var. alba

Rodgersia aesculifolia

Drumstick Primrose This primrose marches to a different beat with its globular flowerhead. It blooms in early spring before or just as the leaves start to grow. Tucked down at the base of the plant, the bloom stalk elongates and more buds open until a ball of flowers is formed. With its stout stalk, it then looks like a drummer’s stick. Rosette-forming foliage.

Best in a sheltered location with good snow cover because blooms set in the fall. Prefers moist, fertile, well-drained soil that’s rich in organic matter. Height: 15–30 cm; width 30–45 cm. Shade to a.m. sun.

Rodger’s Flower Rodgersia aesculifolia is sure to pique everyone’s interest with its huge, bronze-tinted leaves that resemble those of a horse chestnut tree. Fragrant clusters of creamy-white to pink flowers form loose pyramids atop tall stems in early summer.

Prefers organically rich and moist soil. Tolerates more dryness in deep shade. Avoid windy sites because foliage may burn. Clump-forming but slow spreading habit. Height: 90–150 cm; width: 90–120 cm. Shade to a.m. sun.

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Trees & Shrubs Hydrangea paniculata ‘DVP Pinky’ Pinky Winky™ Hydrangea Heads held high, the flowers of this hydrangea are a standout. Long upright panicles (up to 30 cm) emerge white and, while those at the base turn pink, new white flowers continue to push from the tip. Older flowers transform to rich pink. Shiny dark green foliage. Use as a specimen plant or to create a spectacular flowering hedge. Leave flowerheads on for winter interest. In early spring, prune any tips that suffered winterkill.

Blooms in late summer. Prefers moist and well-drained soil. Height: 1.5–2 m; width: 1.5 m. Shade to a.m. sun.

Taxus cuspidata ‘Nana’

Viburnum opulus ‘Nanum’

Dwarf Japanese Yew Evergreens aren’t normally tolerant of shade, but there’s an exception to every rule and in this case it’s the yew. This compact form does best in partial shade but will survive in hot sun if kept moist. It is slow growing but tolerates shearing. Prefers moist, welldrained soil. Grow in a sheltered location with good snow cover, especially in lower hardiness zones. Height: 60–90 cm; width: 60–90 cm. Sun or shade.

Dwarf European Cranberry A beautiful mounding form means this shrub is outstanding as a low hedge. This dwarf variety has bright-green foliage and is excellent for a shadier site. However, it rarely blooms. Suffers in wet and poorly drained sites. Height: 60–90 cm; width: 90–150 cm. Sun or shade.

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10 Tips to

Better Peonies Peonies may look delicate but don’t let their blousy blooms fool you. They are some of the toughest and longest-lived perennials you’ll have the pleasure of growing. They were a favourite among prairie pioneers and can still be found flowering profusely around abandoned homesteads. Plant a few and join the fan club. Here’s what you need to know.

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Getting It Right 1. Peonies take four to five years to reach full size, but buy a two-year-old root with three to five plump buds or eyes and you may get blooms the first year.

2. Have patience with fernleaf peonies.

They take a year to get established but their spectacular blooms in the years that follow are well worth the wait.

3. Plant peony roots in the spring, with the eyes 3.5–5 cm deep. Don’t plant any deeper or the plant will not bloom.

4. Plant in sun to light shade. Peonies need at least six hours of sunlight each day to bloom well.

5. Don’t plant peonies too close to trees.

They don’t like to fight for nutrients and moisture so give them as little intense competition as possible.

6. Avoid planting peonies in low spots where puddles form after a rainfall.

Peonies will rot in wet, poorly drained soil.

7. Plant in fertile, moist, well-drained and acid-free soil. Peonies thrive on the prairies because soil tends to be slightly alkaline.

8. Don’t add manure to the soil or to the planting hole. The resulting growth will be spindly and weak.

9. Water well during periods of drought.

This is especially important after flowering, as this is when next year’s flowerbuds are formed.

Always water at the base of plants to prevent disease.

10. Peonies can be left undisturbed indefinitely and don’t require dividing to maintain vigour. If you want to divide them, do so in the fall. Each division should have two or three buds or eyes if you hope to have them bloom the next season. Keep in mind, however, that it can take four or five years for divided plants to bloom profusely.

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Great Spring Bloomers I make my home in a place where fall seems mere seconds long and where winter seems to verge on endless. So when spring finally does roll around, I’m desperate for the colour and energy this season brings. Spring, like all seasons, can be divided into early, mid and late. Try a few plants from each of these categories and look forward to them all winter long.

Annuals Viola x wittrockiana ‘Red Wing’ Pansy, Matrix® Series There’s no faster way to early floral fulfilmen than with transplanted pansies. This reliable series has large, lush, long-blooming flowers that are frost tolerant at both ends of the growing season. ‘Red Wing’ features a dark blotch on yellow petals with red caps. Great in short borders or mixed planters. Height: 15–20 cm; spacing: 15–20 cm. Sun to p.m. sun.

Perennials Paeonia officinali ‘Rosea Plena’ Peony Showy, trouble-free and long lived—what more could you ask for? Besides which, a flower garden just doesn’t seem complete without a peony. A great spring bloomer, this variety has double, bright-pink flowers. eonies prefer moist, acid-free, fertile and well-drained soil. Plant eyes 5 cm deep or less. Height: 60–90 cm; width 75–100 cm. Sun.

Aubrieta ‘Blue Beauty’ (Blaue Schönheit) False Rockcress Much to every grower’s delight, false rockcress is smothered with blooms for several weeks.

This variety features dark, bluish-purple petals with a white ring around yellow stamens. Plants should be lightly trimmed immediately after blooming to encourage a thick mounding habit.

Suitable for rock gardens or as a groundcover.

Prefers neutral to alkaline, well-drained soil.

Evergreen foliage; do not cut back in fall.

Height: 10 cm; width: 30 cm. Sun to p.m. sun.

Bulbs Crocus sieberi sublimis ‘Tricolor’ Crocus The first sign of a crocus peeking through the last remnants of snow is always a welcome sight, especially for northern gardeners. This variety has deep-lilac flowers with white and orangey-yellow centres. Well suited to rock gardens and look best planted in large, informal groups. In early fall, plant corms 10 cm deep and 3–5 cm apart. Very tolerant of moisture during summer dormancy. Prefer coarse, well-drained, poor to moderately fertile soil. Height: 10 cm. Sun to p.m. sun.

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Solutions Trees & shrubs Forsythia ovata ‘Northern Gold’ Forsythia Herald the arrival of spring with the sunny golden blooms of forsythia. Developed in Canada, this is an especially tough variety with bud hardiness to at least -35°C. Do, however, plant in a sheltered site to help prevent winterkill of flowerbuds. Good snow coverage is also recommended. Dense, deep-green foliage is displayed on an upright form. Pruning should be done soon after flowers finish. elldrained soil. Height: 2–3 m; width: 2–3 m. Sun to p.m. sun.

Rhododendron ‘Helsinki University’ Rhododendron Rhododendrons always put on a dramatic show thanks to their large flower clusters that look magnificent in spring. his variety, developed in Finland, has pink flowers with orange-red flecks. Blooms May to June. Plant in a sheltered location with good snow cover and mulch. Evergreen foliage on a compact shrub.

Prune after flowering to maintain form. Needs moist and acidic soil. Height: 1.5–2 m; width: 1 m. Sun to p.m. sun.

Rhododendron ‘Lemon Lights’ Azalea, Northern Lights Series Light up your spring with masses of lemonyellow blooms that have sweeping stamens.

The sweetly fragrant flowers of this azalea appear before the leaves, which turn a showy shade of maroon in fall. Flowerbuds also set in the fall. Varieties in this series are hardy to -35°C. Plant in a sheltered location. Soil requirements include moist, well-drained and acidic conditions. Height: 1–2 m; width: 1 m.

Sun to p.m. sun.

Spiraea ‘Snow White’ Spiraea Be captivated by this spiraea’s long, arching branches, absolutely laden with white flowers.

Early spring blooms continue their profusion over a three to four week period. Also known as ‘Bridalwreath’ spiraea, this shrub has a vase shape. Blue-green foliage turns striking orange and red in fall. Prune immediately after blooming because next year’s buds set soon after. Prefers well-drained soil. Height: 1.25 m; width: 2 m. Sun to p.m. sun.

Malus ‘Gladiator’ Ornamental Crabapple Outstanding leaf colour earns this ornamental a high mark, but it’s the lovely pink blooms that push it to the top of its group. In midspring, the clusters of rose-coloured buds open to lighter-coloured, fragrant flowers. A fairly narrow form with deep-burgundy leaves. Its dense canopy starts about 1 m from the ground. Very resistant to fireblight. Dark, reddish-purple fruit. Medium rate of growth. Prefers well-drained soil. Height: 6–7 m; width: 3–5 m. Sun. enjoygardening 51

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B e s t Tr a i l e r s Some of my favourite trailers are those seen spilling over the sides of containers, both serving to soften the edges of the pots and to add interest to the base of these valuable arrangements. But trailers aren’t limited to the category of fabulous annuals or, for that matter, just for use in containers. Allow their foliage to tumble over the edge of a retaining wall, to ramble down a slope or to drape over rocks in a shrub border. Here are a few of the best.

Annuals Calibrachoa ‘Tiki Strawberry’ Million Bells, Aloha Series Say hello to a sure winner. Hundreds of tropical-toned, petunia-like flowers on a trailing form make this series a new favourite.

‘Tiki Strawberry’ is light pink with a darker pink eye. There’s never a need to deadhead these self-cleaning plants. A fast grower that makes a good annual groundcover or an excellent choice for pots, planters and hanging baskets.

Keep well watered. Height: 15–25 cm; trails: 20–30 cm. Sun.

Cymbalaria muralis Kenilworth Ivy Cascade this ivy over a wall to create an impressive visual flow—the pe fect choice for softening difficult spaces. his annual grows quickly, which is a true virtue in areas with a short growing season. The leaves are round and their glossiness adds much textural interest. It also has small lilac flowers. Equally well suited to containers. Height: 5–10 cm; trails: 60–90 cm. Shade to a.m. sun.

Ipomoea batatus ‘Marguerite’

Glechoma hederacea ‘Green’

Sweet Potato Vine You’ve got it made in spades with this vivid lime-green vine. Its lush, fast-growing habit makes it an ideal addition to any container.

Large spade-shaped leaves are held quite upright. Use for superb contrast. This sweet potato is grown as an ornamental; however, its tubers are edible. Height: 10–15 cm; trails: 60–75 cm. Sun.

Nepeta Round out your containers with this soft-looking trailer. Aromatic leaves are three-lobed, with each lobe having rounded edges. It is a member of the mint family and also commonly known as ground ivy or creeping Charlie. A vigorous grower that can be invasive in temperate zones where it will overwinter. Height: 10–15 cm; trails to 1–2 m. Sun.

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Lamiastrum ‘Jade Frost’ Silver Nettle Vine Frosted with silver highlights, this is a striking trailer with a deepgreen base colour. The tonal interest makes it a welcome addition to mixed planters, although it looks stunning on its own. Vigorous habit. Height: 5–10 cm; trails: 30–60+ cm. Sun or shade.

Petunia ‘Extreme Yellow’ Vegetative Single Petunia, Sweetunia® Series Petunias are superb garden performers, and this one won’t disappoint. What makes ‘Extreme Yellow’ really sweet is its colour, a two-tone yellow that’s uncommon in petunias. This series features single, medium-sized blooms.

Trailing and mounding growth habit. Height: 20–30 cm; spread: 75–90 cm. Sun.

Lotus maculatus ‘New Gold Flash’ Lotus Vine This airy vine adds fullness to the landscape with its unusual texture. The jade-green foliage consists of soft, needle-like leaves. Given a long enough growing season, this lotus vine will sport fiery-orange flower that have a flame-like shape.

Excellent in hanging baskets, containers or mixed planters.

Trails to 90 cm. Sun.

Plectranthus argentatus ‘Silver Shield’ Plectranthus (Swedish Ivy) Some plants call out to be touched and this is one of them.

The textured, silver-grey leaves of this Swedish ivy cast a sheen on the garden and look luxuriant when paired with purples or blues. This accent plant has large leaves and is ideal for planters.

A versatile annual that grows well in shady or sunny locations.

Height: 60 cm; width: 60–75 cm.

Sun or shade.

Perennials Lamium maculatum ‘Aureum’ (syn. ‘Gold Leaf’) Archangel Unlike the more common green archangel, the leaves of this cultivar have a golden halo around a white centre.

Pink flowers that resemble tiny snapdragons cover the plants from spring to summer. A great choice for slopes. Prefers moist and well-drained soil. Height: 15–25 cm; width: 60–100+ cm.

Sun or shade.

Lysimachia nummularia Creeping Jenny As its common name suggests, this plant will readily creep over a wall, down a hillside or even over the lip of a window well.

It is a long-blooming perennial with golden-yellow flowers throughout the summer. Ruffled, evergreen foliage. Also makes an excellent groundcover. Grows well under most conditions but prefers a sunny location with organic, moist and well-drained soil. Height: 2–5 cm; width: 45–60+ cm. Sun to p.m. sun. enjoygardening 53

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Fabulous Fruits There’s just something so rewarding about growing the food you eat.

And when that food is beautiful, juicy, amazingly delicious and you can claim credit for its production, it just doesn’t get any better. So stake out a patch in the yard for your favourite fruits. Here are just a few of mine.

Lonicera edulis var. kamtschatica ‘Borealis’ Honeyberry Developed in Russia and hardy to -45˚C, honeyberries seem to be custom designed for the prairies. Even the flowers can withstand temperatures as low as -10˚C. The elongated blueberry-like fruit matures exceptionally early, often in the first weeks of June. ypically plants need only one growing season before they fruit, although you will need to plant another variety for cross-pollination. ‘Borealis’ has the largestsized fruit developed to date. The berries are 2–3 cm long and about 1.6 gm. Makes incredible jam; also good fresh or in baking. Little to no pruning required. Branches are somewhat brittle so handle with care, especially when transplanting. White blooms in May. Moist soil.

Height: 1–1.2 m; width: 1–1.2 m. Sun to p.m. sun.

Prunus ‘Convoy’ Cherry Plum There are lots of reasons to recommend this cross between a cherry and plum plant. Clusters of fragrant white flowers in spring result in abundant 2-cm diameter, scarlet fruit with yellow flesh in mid August. Highly tolerant of urban pollution, this upright form produces dark-green foliage that turns yellow in fall. Excellent for the home orchard or as a fruiting hedge. Eat the fruit fresh or use for preserves. Needs a midspring cross-pollinator, such as western sandcherry.

If you prefer plums for cross-pollination, try ‘Brookgold’ or ‘Brookred.’ For cherry plums, try ‘Manor,’ ‘Opata’ or ‘Sapa.’ Requires well-drained soil. Height: 3 m; width: 2 m. Sun.

Prunus ‘Morden 604’ Apricot You’ll be richly reward with the intense flavour of this apricot—providing you are a patient gardener.

Apricots, such as this variety, are extremely hardy but bloom so early that frost frequently prevents the fruit from setting. Well worth the effort though. Pale-pink blooms appear before the tree leafs out. The golden fruit with deeporange flesh has more ta tness than commercial varieties. Freestone fruit is 4–5 cm in diameter and matures from mid to late August. Good fresh or use for dessert and preserves. Moderately selffertile but produces more fruit if cross-pollinated with another apricot or a Nanking cherry. Upright tree. Height: 7 m; width: 4 m. Sun to p.m. sun.

Amelanchier alnifolia ‘Northline’ Saskatoon The annual hunt for the best patch of wild saskatoons will always be a prairie tradition, but it’s not the only game in town. Early, heavy-bearing cultivars, such as ‘Northline,’ may remove the chase, but they certainly aren’t short on taste.

White blooms appear in May, and mature to 1.5-cm diameter fruit in July. Good for preserves. Stunning orange-red fall colour. Prefers well-drained soil.

Height: 2–3 m; width: 1.5 m. Sun.

Fragaria x ananassa ‘Tristar’ Strawberry Store-bought strawberries just don’t compare to the ones you grow yourself. The beckoning fragrance and sweet juiciness alone will have you swearing off commercial berries for good. ‘Tristar’ has firm, conical-shaped fruit that’s red throughout. This variety is day neutral (meaning flowering is not affected by hours of daylight) and produces heavy yields from June to frost. Height: 10 cm; spacing: 25 cm. Sun.

Malus x‘Jefsey’ Apple ‘Odyssey®’ Taste tests identify this new introduction as the sweetest of any prairie-hardy apple. Crisp apples are 7–8 cm in diameter, mature in mid September and have a flavour similar to a ‘Royal Gala ’ Beautiful yellow skin with a red blush. Developed in Manitoba from a chance seedling. Stores well.

As with all apples, this variety requires another apple or pear for cross-pollination. Height: 5 m; width: 4 m. Sun. Image courtesy of Jeffries Nursery

Prunus ‘Tecumseh’ Plum Wiping juice from your chin is no hardship when there’s a perfectly plump plum involved.

Underneath the dark-red skin of a ‘Tecumseh’ is firm flesh and first-rate fla . In spring, this hardy tree sports fragrant white flowers. ruit ripens mid to late August and is about 4 cm in diameter.

Clingstone. Also good for cooking or preserving.

Open, spreading growth. Cross-pollinate with ‘Brookgold’ plum or Nanking cherry. Height: 3 m; width: 3 m. Sun.

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Solutions Prunus cerasus ‘Evans’ Cherry The fruit of ‘Evans’ cherry is aesthetically appealing all on its own—a quality that’s often overlooked. Also appealing is the attractive bark and masses of white blooms in spring.

This sour cherry was rediscovered in the Edmonton area in the 1970s. Fruit is quite sour at the orangey-red stage, but sweetens up as it darkens to an almost burgundy colour. Cherries mature from late July to early August, are 2–3 cm in diameter and pit easily. Use fresh or for jam, pies or wine making. Prefers poor rather than rich soil. Self-pollinating. Height: 5-7 m; width: 5 m. Sun.

Rheum x hybridum ‘Canada Red’ Rhubarb For rhubarb lovers there’s nothing more eagerly awaited than those first tender stalks in spring.

Tart and tangy, rhubarb is easy to grow and not prone to disease or insect infestation.

Technically, however, it is not actually a fruit—it’s a member of the buckwheat family. Rich red stalks provide great colour when making pies, juice or preserves. Outstanding source of dietary fibre. Prefers rich and well-drained soil. Feed annually with compost. Height: 1 m; width: 1 m. Sun to p.m. sun.

Ribes rubrum Red Currant This gooseberry relative bears translucent red berries that make superb jams and jellies.

When left to ripen on the bush, the fruit sweetens enough to be enjoyed fresh and has a taste slightly more tart than a black currant.

Flowers are inconspicuous and yellow-green, and berries are born in clusters on pendulous racemes. The plant’s five-lobed leaves are arranged spirally on the stems. Heavy yields of fruit 2–4 cm in diameter. Matures from July to August. Self-pollinating. Moist soil. Height: 1–1.5 m; width: 1 m. Sun.

Rubus idaeus ‘Souris’ Raspberry Say raspberry and most people think jam.

What’s even more delicious though is the taste of these delicate berries direct from plant to mouth—or more decadently, in a bowl with heavy cream and a sprinkle of sugar. Indulge however you wish, but give raspberries a try.

Developed in Manitoba by Agriculture Canada, this variety is a better tasting and a heavier producer than ‘Boyne,’ an older variety also developed at the Morden Research Station.

Easy to grow. Harvest berries from July to mid August. Fruit is produced on second-year growth; prune out older canes each year.

Prefers well-drained soil. Height: 2 m; width: 1 m. Sun. enjoygardening 55

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relax Entertain

Style

Entice

trend spotting

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Bathing Beauties Garden fountains that make a splash

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A Weeping State Originality takes form in the garden

second look

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Leaves of Grass A photographic flip through the world of grasse

floral design

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Get a Grip Simple ways to dress up bouquets

recipes

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Picnic Perfect Fresh and simple recipes that will send you packing

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Mediterranean Bread Salad (panzanella) Spinach Asiago Dip Grilled Rosemary Chicken Skewers with Sweet & Sour Dipping Sauce Double Chocolate Thunder Cookies Lemon Drop

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trend spotting

An insider’s look at what’s hot for 2009

Bathing Beauties Garden fountains that make a splash

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There’s something magical about water.

The sound of it lures us to its source, where we contentedly find ourselves both soothed and invigorated.

It’s no wonder fountains are on our trend list for 2009.

From ethereal Venetian pedestals to miniature, tabletop waterscapes, there’s a fountain to fit every landscape and style. So go out and find your perfect fit. There’s simply no better way to turn a space into a destination.

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trend spotting

An insider’s look at what’s hot for 2009

Fountains that use copper components will naturally change in appearance over time. As copper ages, it takes on a bluish-green patina, called verdigris. Different indoor water fountains will develop this colouring at different paces, depending on the water used and the climate in which they are kept.

Quick Tips

Do not use copper cleaners on fountains that are powder coated. It will damage the finish.

Instead, apply hard shell wax every two to three months.

Special powder coatings can be applied to copper fountains to help protect against natural oxidation, but many gardeners consider patina highly desirable. In fact, the look is so popular that resin fountains (such as the one featured below) are being manufactured with faux patina finishes.

If a traditional fountain is not to your taste, consider a gurgler. As their name suggests, they gently gurgle and trickle water, creating a soothing sound perfect for drowning out the hustle and bustle of everyday life. Large or small, traditional or contemporary—there’s a gurgler to suite every style and budget.

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Wall-mounted fountains are ideal when horizontal space is at a minimum. This one has been dressed up with a basin of wine corks. Not only does it add an unexpected element of interest, it also softens the sound that the steaming water makes.

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Care & Maintenance

To keep your fountains running at optimum performance, you’ll need to maintain them properly. Follow these simple tips and be rewarded with beautiful fountains for years to come.

• Use rainwater or distilled water in your fountain. It will help prevent white scale and hard mineral deposits from forming.

• Check the fountain’s water level regularly and add water as needed. This is especially important if your fountain has a circulating pump: if water levels drop below the intake level, the pump “swallows” air, which can cause the motor to burn out. The pump should always be fully submerged.

• Keep your fountain out of direct sunlight. This will not only keep resin fountains from fading prematurely but also help reduce algae growth.

• Avoid placing your fountain under trees that shed heavily. Lots of fallen leaves mean lots of frequent cleanings.

• Clean your fountain every month. All parts of the fountain should be taken apart and cleaned—inside and out. Clean the bowl, the pump including the screen and any rocks or adornments that sit in the water.

• Winterize. Drain the water from your basins and remove any pumps. Store easily moved fountains indoors. Cover or invert basins on permanent structures to prevent them from damage during the freeze/thaw cycle.

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trend spotting

An insider’s look at what’s hot for 2009

A Weeping State Originality takes form in the garden

What should you do when the ordinary gets you down? Weep, of course! There’s no reason to be shy about it, either—the weeping form is one of the hottest trends we’re seeing for 2009. From graceful willows to almost comical-looking pine, there’s sure to be a weeper that you’ll love. Just be forewarned: once you’re hooked on these beauties, there’s nowhere to go but down.

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Betula pendula ‘Lacinata’ Cutleaf Weeping Birch

Deeply cut leaves on long, arching branches give this birch a fine-textured look that’s reminiscent of pinked fabric. The bark is a beautiful bright white and at its showiest in the winter when the tree’s architecture is revealed. Produces catkins in the spring and spectacular yellow fall colour. Requires moist soil conditions. Height: 15 m; width: 6–10 m. Sun. Malus ‘Rosy Glo’ Weeping Crabapple (Top Graft)

If your yard has horizontal space to spare, fill it with a weeping crabapple. Its branches grow up and out before arching down, which results in a mature tree that’s wider than it is tall. Outstanding golden-yellow fall colour. Prefers moist, well-drained soil. Height: training dependant; width: 1.5–2 m in 12–15 years.

Sun to p.m. sun.

Pinus strobus ‘Pendula’ Weeping White Pine

Erratic and exotic, this weeping pine offers visual interest to any setting. Its branches have soft, long needles that are bluish-green in colour. Size varies tremendously. Allow it to weep and trail over rocks or walls. Requires moist and well-drained soil. Height: 4–9 m; width: 3–4 m. Sun. Picea abies ‘Pendula’ Weeping Norway Spruce

This fast-growing evergreen has incredible versatility.

Stake and train it as an upright form, or allow its pendulous branches of thick, dark-green needles to weep over rocks or walls. Makes a luxurious ground cover. Prefers moist, well-drained acidic soil. Height: training dependant; width: 4–6 m. Sun to p.m. sun.

Salix x sepulcralis Weeping Willow

There is simply no rival for the gracefulness of this tree’s canopy. Although weeping willows can’t survive the prairie climate, they are a musthave in a Zone 4 landscape.

Remarkably drought tolerant and not that fussy about soil conditions. Height: 12–15 m; width: 11 m. Sun to p.m. sun.

Larix decidua ‘Pendula’ Weeping European Larch

If you’re looking for a truly extraordinary specimen tree, you can’t go wrong with a weeping larch. Its beauty is exceptional, as one look at its branches confirms. Not only do their branches grow up and out before arching down, they also boast goldenyellow fall colour. A great choice as a focal point or near a pond. Prefers moist, well-drained soil. Height: training dependant; width: 3–4 m in 12–15 years. Sun to p.m. sun. enjoygardening 63

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second look

Leaves of G r a s s A photographic flip through the world of grasses

Bent elegantly by the will of the wind, a field of grass can become almost anything.

A poet’s genius, a photographer’s inspiration, the contemplative’s respite. Like all icons of our landscape, the mere idea of grasses is indelibly engrained in our personal narratives. So get ready to get inspired.

To think of grasses more often. To plant them in your yards. To enjoy their simplicity, gait and freedom.

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D e m a n d t h e b l a d e s t o rise of words, a c ts , b ein g s ,

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second look

Tho s e o f t h e o p e n at mo sp h er e,

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c o ar s e , sunlit, f resh,

n u tr itio u s,

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second look

Th o s e t h a t g o their own gait, erect,

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stepping

with fr eed o m and command,

lea d in g n o t following…

–Walt Whitman

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floral design

Get a Grip Si mp l e way s t o dress u p b ouque t s

Every now and then, flowers need to dress up, too. Fortunately, outfitting them with your signature look is as easy as it is inexpensive. All it takes is knowing where to start. As we discovered, there’s no better place to begin than with a rummage through a button box. Follow it up with a quick stop at the jewellery drawer, and you’re half way there. Corsage pins, some ribbon, a little wire and the possibilities become endless. So go ahead and have at it! Doll up a bouquet handle, or collar a vase.

But whatever you do, don’t forget to be fearless with your designs—there are no rules, after all, and you never know what your creativity will inspire.

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Candy-striped ribbon jewelled with berries of St. John’s wort gives this handle a decidedly playful elegance. To keep it all in place, we’ve studded the berries with vibrant-red corsage pins and added a whimsical lacing of thin-gauge copper wire.

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floral design To create this fantastic look, we simply reused a ribbon and recycled some beads from an old (and ugly!) bracelet.

The sheen from the wide satin ribbon creates a beautiful palette atop which to pin a graphic dotting of wooden beads.

Pearl-headed corsage pins hold the polka dots in place and mimic the rich lustre of the green fabric. (Right)

This graceful hydrangea is proof that it takes but one stem to make an impression. A simple grosgrain bow was the only embellishment it needed, but we added a long-forgotten broach for a touch of sparkle and sentimentality.

(Below)

No ribbon? Why not steal a leaf from a houseplant? We created this satiny sleeve from a ti leaf and accented it with a bracelet of beaded wire that we found at a craft store.

A few strategically placed corsage pins hold everything in place so that you won’t have to. Simple, inexpensive and unexpected—it doesn’t get easier than that. (Right) 72 enjoygardening

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Quick Tip Pins & Needles Corsage pins come in varying lengths and often need to be trimmed to size.

• To ensure an effortless pierce through fabric and stems, cut your pins on an angle with a pair of sharp scissors.

• To prevent stubborn pins from popping out of thick handles, simply dip their tips in hot glue before plunging them into place.

• Can’t fin colourful pins? Just reach for your nail polish. A few coats of your favourite shade will turn plain pinheads into custom-coloured adornments.

To turn down the formality and turn up the fun, we decorated this vase with a few spirals of rickrack and some coordinating buttons. It’s the perfect look for a kid’s party but still dramatic enough to make a grown-up impression. (Below)

It just makes sense to adorn the neck of a vase with a buttoned collar.

We created our version simply by centring one complementary ribbon on another and then tacking on a row of elegant buttons. It’s that easy. Best of all, the buttons can be removed when the flowers fade and used again for another project. (Left)

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floral design

How to

Tie One On There’s simply no reason to tie yourself in knots over tying knots. To prove it, we’ve created this easy step-by-step that any first-timer can master. The knots on the wrap of this handle are nothing more than double twists that look ingeniously perfect (even if they occasionally aren’t!). So go ahead and give this project a try.

It truly is a how-to you can handle.

Step 1: Preparing and taping the stems

Step 3: Adding the overlay

Prepare your flower stems by stripping them of all foliage and thorns. Bundle your prepped and dry bouquet stems tightly with a thin elastic band. Starting 2 or 3 cm from the neck of the bouquet and working downward, wrap the bundled stems with double-sided tape. How much green stem you leave exposed at the bottom is up to you.

We opted to wrap a little more than three-quarters of the handle.

Cut a 70–100 cm length of overlay ribbon that coordinates with the colour of your handle wrap (we used an orange organza). Next, find the approximate centre of the overlay ribbon and position it against the backside of the handle, at the spot where the handle wrap ends (you will be knotting your way up the bouquet). To begin creating your first double-twisted knot, simply criss-cross the two ends of your ribbon, left over right and left over right again. Pull the ribbon ends around to the back and repeat the same knot, twisting left over right, left over right and, this time, wrapping around to the front.

Repeat the process until you’ve knotted your way to the top of the wrapped handle. Tie off the ribbon.

Step 2: Covering the tape with ribbon

Starting at the neck of the bouquet, begin wrapping your foundation ribbon around the tape in a downward, spiralling motion (we chose a wired, brown taffeta for our handle). When all the tape is covered, turn under the raw edge of the ribbon and tack it in place with a few dots of hot glue or a couple of corsage pins.

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Quick Tip Keeping It Fresh If you’re not using your bouquet immediately, you’ll need to keep it fresh and in some water. The trick, however, is keeping the ribbon dry. To prevent the ribbon from wicking water, simply prop up the bouquet in a container and keep the waterline well below the ribbon.

Step 4: Adding the button and finishing touches

Thread an attractive button onto one of the ribbon tails and slide it up to the top of the handle. Secure the button in place by tying off the ribbon one more time.

Trim the ends with sharp scissors and marvel at a job well done.

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recipes

Picnic Perfect Fresh and simple recipes that will send you packing

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Perhaps it’s the way the sun gently warms

and infuses flavours or that fresh air breathes vigour into appetites, but picnics just have a way of making food taste better. So when the outdoors call this year, be ready to answer! Getting prepared is as easy as the five recipes that follow. From succulent chicken skewers to the mightiest of all lemonades, these picnic favourites will have you eating alfresco all season long.

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recipes

Medi t e r r an e an Brea d Sa la d

(panzanella)

Originally, panzanella was a way to use up day-old bread. Now it’s an Italian classic and perfect for a picnic basket.

(Serves five 1.25 L (5 cups) torn ciabatta bread, rubbed with a halved garlic clove 60 mL (1/4 cup) extra-virgin olive oil 2 roasted red peppers, roughly chopped 1 red onion, thinly sliced 500 mL (2 cups) basil leaves, torn 250 mL (1 cup) flat-leaf parsley leave 6 roma tomatoes, quartered 250 mL (1 cup) whole black olives 15 mL (2 tbsp.) capers, rinsed and drained

1. Preheat oven to 180°C (355°F).

2. Place bread on a baking sheet, toss with the olive oil, season with a sprinkling of sea salt and black pepper, and bake until golden and crunchy (12–15 minutes).

3. Remove toasted bread cubes to a very large bowl and toss with the roasted peppers, red onions, tomatoes, basil, parsley, black olives and capers.

4. Drizzle with half the dressing and let stand 15 minutes at room temperature. Toss with remaining dressing and serve immediately.

Basic Vinaigrette 60 mL (1/4 cup) white wine vinegar 75 mL (1/3 cup) extra-virgin olive oil 15 mL (1 tbsp.) sugar 1 garlic clove, crushed 5 mL (1 tsp.) each sea salt and freshly cracked pepper

1. In a small jar, combine all ingredients.

2. Cover and shake.

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recipes

Spi n a c h A s i ag o D ip Vegetables and bread will line up to plunge into this dip. The perfect bite for hungry snackers.

(Serves five

250 mL (1 cup) plain yogurt 60 mL

(1/4

cup) sour cream

2 cloves garlic, minced 30 mL (2 tbsp.) grainy mustard

60 mL (1/4 cup) mayonnaise

30 mL (2 tbsp.) chives, chopped

125 mL (1/2 cup) grated Asiago cheese

15 mL (1 tbsp.) lemon juice

1 package frozen spinach, thawed, drained and chopped

5 mL (1 tsp.) sea salt

3 roasted red peppers, roughly chopped

15 mL (1 tbsp.) capers, chopped

1. In a small mixing bowl, combine yogurt, sour cream, mayonnaise, Asiago cheese, mustard, garlic, lemon juice, salt and pepper.

2. Stir in spinach, red peppers, artichoke hearts, chives and capers.

3. Season to taste and serve with crisp bites of cruditĂŠs.

5 mL (1 tsp.) freshly cracked pepper

5 marinated artichoke hearts, roughly chopped

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G r i l l e d Rosemar y Chicken Skewers w it h S w e e t & S o u r D ip p ing Sa uc e These kebabs are the perfect way to reinvent chicken thighs. Delicious to a fault, so pile them high and watch them go!

(Serves four) Wooden skewers 1.5 kg (3 lb.) boneless, skinless chicken thighs 30 mL (2 tbsp.) vegetable oil, for the grill 15 mL (1 tbsp.) fresh minced rosemary 10 mL (2 tsp.) brown sugar 10 mL (2 tsp.) sea salt 5 mL (1 tsp.) freshly cracked pepper 5 mL (1 tsp.) red chili paste

1. Soak wooden skewers in water 30 minutes prior to preparing the chicken.

2. Slice the chicken thighs lengthwise into 4-cm wide (11/2") strips.

3. Toss strips in a medium bowl with rosemary, brown sugar, salt, pepper and chili paste.

4. Thread the chicken strips onto the skewers.

5. Prepare your grill with a light brushing of oil before heating it to a medium-high temperature. Grill skewers until thoroughly cooked (12–15 minutes).

6. Serve with a stack of flatbread and a warm bowl of sweet & sour orange dipping sauce.

Sweet & Sour Orange Dipping Sauce 250 mL (1 cup) orange marmalade 60 mL (1/4 cup) rice vinegar 5 mL (1 tsp.) chopped rosemary

1. Heat the marmalade, rice vinegar and rosemary in a small saucepan until just warm.

2. Pour mixture into a small dipping bowl and serve.

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recipes

Do u b l e C ho c o l a te T h un der Cookies When cookies are this chocolatey and decadent, even a double batch doesn’t last long.

(Makes two dozen) 625 mL (21/2 cups) flou 250 mL (1 cup) butter, room temperature 180 mL (3/4 cup) brown sugar, loosely packed 125 mL (1/2 cup) white sugar 2 large eggs 75 mL (1/3 cup) cocoa powder 8 mL (11/2 tsp.) vanilla 10 mL (2 tsp.) baking soda 5 mL (1 tsp.) baking powder 5 mL (1 tsp.) salt 125 mL (1/2 cup) toasted coconut 125 mL (1/2 cup) toasted pecans, roughly chopped 3 squares (85 g or 3 oz) semi-sweet chocolate, chopped 250 mL (1 cup) milk chocolate chips

1. Preheat oven to 190°C (375°F).

In a large bowl, beat butter and sugars until light and creamy.

Add the eggs and vanilla and beat again.

2. In a medium bowl, combine flour, baking soda, baking powder and cocoa powder.

Stir with a whisk to blend ingredients.

3. Add dry ingredients to the butter mixture and stir until combined. Mix in the chocolate, coconut and pecans.

4. On a parchment-lined baking sheet, drop golf-ball sized scoops of cookie dough, spaced 4 cm (1.5") apart.

5. Bake for 12–13 minutes and remove to a cooling rack.

6. Try very hard to let the cookies cool for 5 minutes and devour!

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Lem on Drop On a hot summer day, the only thing worthy of the sun is an icy-cold lemon drop. One taste and you’ll be hooked.

(Serves one) 45 mL (11/2 oz) citrus vodka 5 mL (1 tsp.) super-fine sugar o 1 sugar cube 1/2

a lemon, juiced

Sugar (to rim glass) Ice Lemon twist (to garnish)

1. Rim the outside of a cocktail glass with sugar, and set aside.

2. Fill a shaker half full of ice. Pour in vodka, sugar and lemon juice.

3. Shake until mixture is completely cold and sugar is dissolved. Pour into the prepared glass, garnish with a twist of lemon and enjoy!

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reconnect Do

Change

Enrich

“real� estate

86

Short Timelines. Small Investments. with Maggie Clayton

A landscape architectural technologist offers real solutions to common landscape problems

how do you do

90

Watered Down Wind Chimes with Linda Bodo

Meld music and flowers in a delightful symphon

92

A Work of Heart Hanging Basket with Linda Bodo Gallery style for the outdoors

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“real� estate

Real solutions to common landscape problems

Short

Timelines.

Small Investments. with Landscape Architectural Technologist

Maggie Clayton

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Not all yard improvements and landscape designs need to be executed in stages over a series of months or summers. Many can be completed in as little as a weekend—but that doesn’t mean they don’t require thought and planning. They do. Fortunately, most gardening tasks are easy if you break them into simple steps before you begin. So whether you’re preparing to spruce up a spruce or to place some boulders, take the time to do it properly—the first time.

It will spare you an infinite amount of frustration and save you money.

Placing Boulders Large rocks or boulders lend interest and a sense of permanence to a landscape. However, before you have large boulders delivered, be absolutely sure of where they are going and which direction each side should face. I also strongly advise being home when they are delivered—if a boulder isn’t placed to your liking, you’re not likely to be able to change it. Boulders can be selected to blend in with a house or to contrast it, but the main objective is to make them look as though they have always been there. It’s not as difficult as it might sound, and the following suggestions will help you achieve the look.

• Large boulders always look better when combined with smaller rocks.

• If you are using several boulders, choose similarlooking ones for a unified look (five boulders of differing colours, forms and textures will be visually distracting).

• The bottom third of the rock should be buried to secure it, as well as to make it appear established. Just placing a boulder on top of the soil will make it look like you’re storing it there until you decide what to do with it.

• You’re not going for the Stonehenge look, so don’t forget to anchor boulders with plants. Trailing junipers or weeping evergreens look stunning growing around or spilling over stone.

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“real” estate

Real solutions to common landscape problems

Sprucing Up a Spruce Well-established evergreen trees often take on a shabby-looking appearance due to a buildup of dead twigs and branches within their centres, but take heart—cleaning up deadwood is a good way to build up your confidence about pruning! Here’s what you need to know.

• Start with the right tools. You will need a sharp pair of secateurs, a sharp pruning saw, safety glasses and long sleeves to protect your arms.

• Work your way into the centre of the tree and begin to examine the branches, starting with the bottom ones.

• If a branch is completely dead, clip or saw it off at the branch collar, being careful not to leave any stubs.

• Green growth at the tip of a branch means the branch is alive. Clean up these branches by clipping off all the dead twigs and branchlets that have no green growth.

Note: Do not make a flush • Gradually work your way up the tree, as cut into the bark of the trunk; it will lead to rot and disease. high as your comfort level will allow.

Expert Advice

Proper Pruning Techniques

When clients ask me for low-maintenance plants, I remind them that low maintenance does not mean no maintenance. To keep plants— even low maintenance ones—looking their best, you need to prune them regularly. Proper pruning involves two different techniques, and most shrubs require both methods. Using only one method will result in an unnatural-looking and potentially diseased plant.

Method 1: Heading back Heading back simply means reducing the length of the branch by cutting it back to an outward-facing bud or to a good lateral branch.

Method 2: Thinning Thinning means removing an entire branch, either to a main branch or to the ground.

Remember, a good pruning job is one that makes the tree or shrub look better—but still natural.

General Notes of Caution when Pruning Take the following information into consideration before you begin pruning.

• If you do not have a valid reason to prune, don’t.

• If the branches are high and require a ladder to reach, call in a certified arborist.

Safety should always come first • If your tree or shrub has gotten out of control, remember that it took a few years for it to get that way and that it will take a few years to get it back into shape. Too many trees and shrubs have been mutilated by someone who thinks he or she can fix the problem in one afternoon 88 enjoygardening

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How to Plant a Rose Before you think about digging, determine what type of rose you’re planting. Is it a hardy rose or a tender one? Just check the plant tag. The type of rose you have will determine the depth to which it must be planted.

Planting Hardy Roses

Planting Tender Roses

Planting a hardy rose is just like planting any other shrub. Just be sure to dig the planting hole deep and wide enough to allow the entire root system to be buried. This sounds obvious, but sometimes the roots on a potted rose are so large that they protrude above the planting medium. Here’s how to get it right.

1. Dig a hole three times the width of the plant’s rootball and to a depth that is equal to the soil height in the pot.

1. Find the bud union on the rose—the swollen lump at the base of the main stem where the rose is grafted to the rootstock. You need to know where it is to complete the next step.

2. Remove the plant from its pot and inspect the roots. If the rose is not rootbound, simply rough up the sides of the rootball to tease loose the roots. This will aid in lateral growth. If the plant is rootbound or has circling roots, slash the roots with a sharp knife and loosen them.

2. Dig a hole three times the width of the plant’s rootball and to a depth where the bud union will be 8 to 10 cm below the surface of the surrounding soil.

3. Continue planting as you would a hardy rose, but if there is lots of green growth at the graft, leave a depression in the soil at that spot and then fill it in with soil when the leaves drop in the fall

3. Place the plant in the hole, making sure the plant is straight and at the correct depth (equal to the soil height in the pot).

4. Backfill with loosened and lightly amended native soil. Pack the soil gently to eliminate any large air pockets.

5. Build a small soil berm around the planting hole to retain water.

6. Water enough to ensure that the rootball and the surrounding soil are wet from top to bottom. A good guide is to use at least 5 L of water for each 30 cm of plant height or spread, whichever is greater.

7. Mulch with wood chips or shredded bark: 5 cm deep for clay soils and 10 cm deep for sandy soils. The mulch will aid in root establishment by retaining soil moisture and reducing soil compaction. Keep the stems free of mulch to avoid rot.

For more great advice from Maggie Clayton, read her book, Create an Impression: Landscaping for Curb Appeal.

Rosa ‘Fragrant Cloud’

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how do you do

Watered Down Wind Chimes with Linda Bodo Meld music and flowers in a delightful symphony 90 enjoygardening

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Played by gusts of air, this instrument strikes the perfect cord in any garden or courtyard. All it takes to craft this combination wind chime/hanging planter is an antique watering can, some mismatched cutlery and about a half hour of your time. When it’s finished and planted, hang it in a spot where its harmonious echo will sooth away your stress and even encourage a well-deserved nap or two.

Materials

Tools

Vintage watering can

Drill

Collection of mismatched spoons

1/8"

24-gauge (0.5 mm) wire (for hanging the cutlery)

Hammer

Bead chain and bead chain connectors

Small file or ras

(3 mm) and 1/4" (6 mm) metal drill bits

Wire cutters

Soilless potting mix Wine corks

Step by Step

1. Using a hammer, flatten the spoons on a hard surface, such as a concrete floor. Drill a 3 mm (1/8") hole through the top handle of each spoon. Drill a corresponding number of holes along the bottom rim of the watering can, being sure to space them evenly.

File down any burrs.

Quick Tip

Give the cutlery a worn look by adding a few dents and dimples with a hammer or by adding a rust patina (available at hardware outlets).

2. Drill 6-mm (1/4") drain holes in bottom of the watering can (two or three should be sufficient).

3. Cut a piece of bead chain to your desired hanging length, and attach it to the top handle of the watering can. Hang the watering can in place. Now you are ready to begin attaching the cutlery chimes.

4. Cut a desired length of wire for each spoon, varying the lengths to create staggered chimes. Attach a spoon to one end of a length of wire and thread the other end through one of the predrilled holes at the bottom rim of the watering can. Twist the wire securely in place and repeat the process with the remaining cutlery.

5. Place a 10 cm (4") layer of wine corks at the bottom of the watering can to decrease the amount of soilless potting mix required and reduce the final weight of the container.

6. Fill watering can with a good-quality, soilless potting mix, and plant with your favourite posies. Water well and enjoy!

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how do you do

A

Work of Heart

H ang ing B ask e t

with Linda Bodo

Gallery style

for the outdoors This cone-shaped basket is an imaginative alternative to a traditional moss-lined container.

Sculpted from stucco mesh, moss and twigs, it can be suspended from brackets or attached to walls to give your outdoor space a gallery feel. A beautifully simple project that should take no more than two hours to complete, giving you plenty of time to make more than one on an industrious Saturday.

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how do you do

Materials 60 cm x 60 cm (2' x 2') stucco mesh (available at hardware outlets) Sheet moss Soilless potting mix Slow-release fertilizer Water-retaining crystals 12 thin twigs, approximately 13Â mm (1/2") in diameter and 30 cm (12") in length 20-gauge (0.8 mm) wire, approximately 90 cm (3') in length 6 Black tie wraps (10 cm or 4")

Raffia or twine (optional 3 wire clothes hangers Paper (for constructing the pattern) Carabiner or S-hook

Tools Wire cutters Needle-nose pliers Hammer Heavy work gloves Felt pen

Step by Step

1. Create a pattern to fit stucco mesh. Transfer the pattern to the stucco mesh using a felt pen. Wearing gloves, cut mesh with wire cutters.

2. Fold over sharp edges of mesh with needle-nose pliers and hammer flat. To form the cone, join the straight sides by slightly overlapping the mesh and whipstitching the seam closed with wire.

3. Bend a handful of pliable twigs Tip To make the twigs around the rim of planter and easier to bend, soak affix in place with tie wraps. them in a tub of water Cover tie wraps with raffia or for several hours. twine if desired.

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Tip If packaged sheet moss has faded or turned brown, soak it for an hour on a cookie sheet filled with green food colouring and water. Drain excess liquid and let moss dry on a rack for several hours.

4. Dampen the sheet moss slightly, and begin lining the bottom third of the cone with it. Be sure to apply a layer that’s at least 2.5 cm (1") thick.

5. Mix 250 mL (1 cup) of slow-release fertilizer and 30–45 mL (2–3 tbsp.) of water-retaining crystals into the soilless potting mix. Begin filling the mosslined portion of the cone with the mixture. Line the next third of the cone in moss and continue adding your potting mix. Repeat the process a third time, remembering to leave 2.5 cm (1") of space at the twig rim.

6. Using your wire cutters, remove the necks and hooks from your clothes hangers. Straighten the hookless hangers. With needle-nose pliers, bend one end of each wire into a decorative spiral loop. Now you’re ready to evenly space and thread the hangers through the rim of the cone.

7. Thread the straight end of each hanger up through the rim of the cone, under the twig edging. Once through, bend the top portion of each hanger to from hooks, which can then be attached to a carabiner or an S-hook.

8. If you prefer to hang your basket on a wall, forgo the hangers and secure an S-hook at the back of the planter.

9. Add your favourite plants and water thoroughly.

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the last word

Plant a Row, Grow a Row with Jim Hole “ I hate to see people go hungry. It hurts, especially when there’s no need for it. We are rich enough to feed everyone, and yet, somehow, we’re not quite smart enough or fair enough to do it.”

—Lois Hole, I’ll Never Marry A Farmer

No truer words have been spoken. But perhaps there is a solution in our communities. There’s a brilliantly simple program called Plant a Row, Grow a Row that’s designed to reduce the number of incidences of people going hungry in our society.

The premise behind Plant a Row, Grow a Row is to encourage gardeners with a bit of extra garden to dedicate a little space to growing some fruits and vegetables for the food banks. And therein lies the beauty of the program: one doesn’t need to convert an entire yard to vegetable production to make an impact on hunger. All it takes is some collective spirit. If a lot of people dedicate a small corner of their gardens to a few hills of potatoes or to a small row of carrots, it translates into a lot of vegetables that can feed a lot of people.

If you want to give Plant a Row, Grow a Row a try but are wondering what to plant, my suggestion is root vegetables. The reason is simple: they store well.

There is no doubt that many recipients of food hampers would love nothing better than to sink their teeth into a ripe, fresh tomato, but the odds of that tomato becoming tomato paste while it’s stored at the food bank are high. Root vegetables such as carrots, parsnips, rutabaga, onions, potatoes and cabbage (a wannabe root vegetable in my books) will last for several months in reasonable storage facilities. In fact, stored at a low, single-digit temperature, onions and cabbage can easily last nine months.

Two important factors to keep in mind when growing vegetables for the food bank are category and variety.

For example, if you are growing an extra row of carrots, choose a variety such as ‘Red Cored Chantenay’ rather than one of the Nantes types. Nantes are sweet and

juicy and definitely the best choice for fresh eating, but the Chantenay and Danvers types are more resistant to breakage and store better. The same principle applies to cabbage. Early maturing cabbage varieties tend to be rather loose, split easily and don’t store well. Main season cabbage varieties, such as ‘Blue Thunder,’ are much more dense and rarely split, thus making far better choices for food banks. Similarly, rutabaga (the orange-fleshed winter keeper “turnip”) stores better than true turnip, which is white fleshed.

Regardless of what vegetables you choose to grow, keep in mind that they all do best in a sunny location. It really is that simple. In fact, growing a few extra vegetables doesn’t even require garden space. Pots are excellent for growing carrots, beets and even potatoes. Using soilless potting mix eliminates weeds and yields nice clean vegetables. Soil-free vegetables are not a necessity, but I’m sure they’d be a welcome bonus for the food banks.

Plant a row; grow a row. It just makes good sense.

Years ago, I remember Mom saying, “I wish I had all the answers, but I don’t. I try, in my own way, to accept people for what they are and help wherever I can. I just know that we can’t afford to simply throw our hands up in the air and lament that there’s nothing we can do.”

I can’t say with certainty that Mom was referring to feeding those who were hungry, but I’m sure she would have agreed that instead of throwing our hands up in the air, a more intelligent strategy might be to put our hands in the ground and plant a few vegetables. Many hands, they say, make light work, and I couldn’t agree more.

Collectively we have tremendous power. Let’s make this the year we prove it.

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enjoy life outside

enjoy Great Gardening Books from Hole’s

F e Av br ail ua ab ry le 20 09

inspired projects

by Li nda B odo

Lois Hole's Favorite Bulbs Better Choices, Better Gardens

By Lois Hole

Lois Hole’s Favorite Bulbs is both an ultimate get started guide for novice gardeners and a comprehensive reference for experienced bulb enthusiasts. Here you’ll find great advice on planting, growing and maintaining flowering bulbs.

You'll also find hundreds of tips on where and when to plant, advice on forcing and naturalizing and fascinating sidebars on bulb science and history. $24.95 • 5.5 x 8.5 • Softcover • Colour • 320 pages • ISBN 1-894728-00-9

Hole's Dictionary of Hardy Perennials The Buyer’s Guide for Professionals, Collectors & Gardeners Edited by Jim Hole

The perennial marketplace is larger than ever, with thousands of species and varieties from which to choose. Keeping track of perennials has become an awesome task—but the experts at Hole’s have a solution. Hole’s Dictionary of Hardy Perennials is the comprehensive guide, perfect for anyone who loves perennials, whether retailer, professional grower, breeder, collector, novice or veteran home gardener. $49.95 • 5.5 x 8.5 • Hardcover • 356 colour photos • 144 pages • ISBN 1-894728-01-7

15 dIY al f r es c o enc ou nters Repurpose, recycle and redefine your leisure time. The only challenge is deciding which project to start first Do-it-yourself guru Linda Bodo shares some of her favourite projects for your outdoor living spaces • 15 easy-to-follow projects • Concise step by steps • Materials lists, timelines, tools and more • Helpful construction tips • Straightforward colour photography and illustrations Discover your confidence, courage and creativity and become a DIY enthusiast!

Ordering Order these and other Hole’s publications online at www.holesonline.com • By Phone 1-888-884-6537

By Fax 780-459-6042 Hole’s • 101 Bellerose Drive St. Albert, Alberta • T8N 8N8

$21.95 • 9 x 10 • Softcover • Colour • 144 pages • ISBN 978-1-894728-08-9

Order online at www.holesonline.com

By Phone 1-888-884-6537

By Fax 780-459-6042

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A garden is more than a thing to tend— it’s a destination

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F r o m J i m H o l e , p u b l i s h e r o f Lo i s ’ S pr ing Gar de ning

S P R I N G 20 0 9

Read interesting articles Watch gardening videos Meet the experts Browse best-selling books Explore plant profiles

PICNIC PERFECT recipes that will send you packing

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THE CUTTING GARDEN Set the stage for armfuls of fl wers

Celebrate all seasons Subscribe to Jim’s Notebook

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BATHING BEAUTIES Garden fountains that make a splash

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