Bubbles May June 2014

T HE A T LA M SUBA QUA C LUB E -M A G A Z I N E

MAY / JUNE 2014 2014 Atlam Committee Members :Nader Bassily President nbassily@vol.net.mt Joseph Azzopardi Secretary guzeppi56@gmail.com Denise Baker Treasurer denise.baker63@ymail.com Nicholas Agius PRO agius.nick@gmail.com Anton Debattista Activity Officer andeb@go.net.mt Reuben Borg Activity Officer reuben.borg@vodafone.com.mt Daniel Fenech Activity Officer 1977deepdiver@gmail.com

IN THIS ISSUE

page

• Note from the Editor -

2

• My Egypt Experience - Dorian Law

3/11

• Species Page - Red Mullet - Edward Vella

12

• Understanding and Conserving Biodiversity - Dr Adriana Vella 13/14 • Dolphin Rescue at Dwejra - Tano Rolé

15/17

• Dive Logs

Ras ir-Raheb - 18/05/14 - Edward Vella

18

Ghar it-Trozz - 25/05/14 - Tano Rolé

19

Ras il-Hobz - 01/06/14 - Edward Vella

20

Il-Qaws - 08/06/14 - Tano Rolé

Double Arch- 22/06/14 - Edward Vella

23

Reqqa Point- 29/06/14 - Edward Vella

24

21/22

Dive Sites Location Map - Joe Formosa

www.atlam.org Want to know more about Jellyfish? (see p2 upcoming activity)

Photo by Joe Formosa

info@atlam.org

25

The Editorial

As I write this, the Atlam boat dive season will be cruising to its maximum load levels. It is the time especially for those seasonal divers, when memory flashbacks start to intrude more and more into their conscious world and become a hazard which cannot be ignored. These are called diving day dreams….does this sound familiar?

Now the time has come to pull out that equipment which has been lying there since last October to be put back into service – and the question comes – is everything serviceable and ready to go? One place where you would for sure not like to find out if anything is not as it should be, is during a boat dive! So please take the time to check every piece of equipment, and have it serviced if it is the case – and do not forget the most important one – the diver!

In the Editorial of the previous issue, the idea was floated inviting photographer members to produce a short presentation of their diving photos. This will give an opportunity to the Atlam photographers to show their best shots to the other members in a relaxed and pleasant ambient of a club night. This is one of the advantages of the new Bahar ic-Caghaq clubhouse, where we now have excellent projection and seating facilities (the bar is also just outside the media room). After the presentation, one can also discuss and exchange photography tips, etc.

Speaking of presentations, as may be seen on the other side of this page, Dr Adriana Vella in conjunction with the environmental n.g.o. BICREF, will be giving the first in a series of talks obviously on marine related topics. Last March, Dr Vella delivered a most interesting talk titled Why Conservation at the clubhouse – the subject of Jellyfish should be most interesting – do not miss this one!

I fully realise that in several editorials, there have been appeals to the members to send not just their diving photographs, but also any articles they might feel inclined to write for publication in Bubbles. It was never the intention of the existence of Bubbles to be a committee to members vehicle, but to be something belonging to all of the Atlam SAC members for them to express themselves. Ever since Bubbles has been uploaded to the Issuu site, we regularly have readers from all over the world! The editorial team are hard pressed to put each issue together – I am sure that the readers realise that Bubbles means a lot of work – but it is a labour of love – however, contributions (photos and articles) from the members would help to achieve the aim for which Bubbles was revived, but most of all it would give the editorial team a well deserved dose of satisfaction!

Keep Diving!

Edward Vella

evella@onvol.net

Thanks to Qrendi Local Council Quick Response Last May after yet another fantastic dive to the Um el Faroud at Wied iz-Zurrieq, it was time to exit and enjoy a nice cold beer, when one of the steps of the exit ladder rotated under my weight, and caused me to lose my balance and fall back into the sea. Luckily I was not hurt and my buddy was keeping a safe distance from the ladder, so there were no further consequences. An uncontrolled fall in full scuba equipment is certainly not to be recommended.

I immediately reported this incident to the Qrendi local council since Wied izZurrieq falls under its jurisdiction. That ladder was in a really dangerous state.

I was pleased to receive an almost immediate reply from the Qrendi Mayor – Mr David Schembri who in turn alerted the MTI (Ministry for Tourism and Infrastructure) – and got the ladder repaired in a couple of days. Now that is really nice work to be thoroughly recommended.

Good to know that there is someone who listens and understands.

Well done.

ATLAM SUBAQUA CLUB Upcoming Activity On Thursday the 10th July at 0915 sharp – Dr Adriana Vella shall be delivering a talk at our premises on the subject of:

Jellyfish of the Mediterranean This should be a very interesting evening – Keep this date free!

This the first of a series of talks on various subjects from the marine world in conjunction with BICREF.

My Egypt Experience

by Dorian Law

It is every diver’s dream to explore the underwater world of his country, but being able to dive the seas of a foreign county is another different experience that will never be forgotten.

Egypt.

At the Northeast corner of Africa on the Mediterranean Sea, bordered on the West by Libya, on the South by Sudan and on the East by the Red Sea, the Gaza Strip and Israel, lies Egypt, one of the most populated countries in Africa and the Middle East. With over 85 million inhabitants it has been continuously inhabited since the 10th millennium BC. It is known worldwide for its ancient archaeological ruins, such as the Pyramids and the Valley of the Kings. Tourism plays an important role in Egypt’s economy and diving tourism is second only to tourism related to Egypt’s historical sites. Most diving in Egypt is done in the Red Sea, an ecosystem formed millions of years ago as a result of the movement of the Red Sea Rift, when the Arabian Peninsula broke off from Africa. It is about 2250 km long and 355 km wide.

The Red Sea is closed on the North by the Sinai Peninsula’s connection to Egypt, Israel, & Jordan, but it is open to the South through the Mandib Strait (Bab-el-Mandeb; ‘Gate of Grief’) to the

Gulf of Aden, connecting to the Arabic Sea and the Indian Ocean. Being surrounded by desert climate makes the Red Sea warm and pretty salty.

Due to minimal waterfall each year much evaporation occurs as a result of heat, with average water temperatures varying between 22°C in February and 30°C in August. I was sure that diving this vast ecosystem was going to be amazing.

Wadi Lahami Trip.

November 2009.

Destination: We left Malta towards Cairo airport to make a connection flight to Marsa Alam airport. A three hour two van journey took us about 200 km towards our destination, Wadi Lahami Eco-Diving Village run by Red Sea Diving Safari. Wadi Lahami is on the edge of Wadi El Gamal national park on an extensive lagoon just above Ras Banas and as far South as you can stay on the Southern Red Sea in land based accommodation. Apart from diving, this area is known for

kitesurfing activities and its proximity to a protected mangrove area makes this village particularly special for its birds and wild life where sightings of Sea Eagles are very common. We arrived in the early hours of the day and were welcomed by one of the resort’s personnel who accompanied us to our ‘rooms’.

Accommodation, food and daily schedule: We stayed in pairs in a 4 metre by 4 metre hard canvas beige tent. My roommate for this trip was Peter and I think we were both a bit worried about how this type of accommodation was going to provide us with any sort of commodity, something that has passed through the minds of the whole

group. We were wrong! The tents had generator supplied electricity, carpets covering the floor, ample room to store personal belongings, two single beds 2 metres apart and two canecushioned chairs outside the tents with panoramic sea-view. Daily room service included carpet sweeping and the making of our beds. A lighted walkway on the sand leaded to the toilets and shower areas and also to the main building comprising the kitchen, ‘mobile phone free’ eating area and the dive shop. The day started with selfservice continental breakfast at 6 am.

Departure to the off shore reefs for 2 guided dives was at 7 am. Punctuality was not our forte’ and it was thanks to the ability of Mohammed, our rib driver, that we could reach and

surpass the other two ribs and be the first at the dive sites and in the water.

Briefing was done on board on arrival at the 1st chosen dive site. Tea, coffee, water and cake were served during the surface interval before the 2nd dive of the morning, returning to the village at about noon. We washed our equipment and headed for lunch.

After lunch we had our obligatory and pleasurable siesta in the sun bed area under the palmed terrace’s shade. At 2.30 pm we went for the 3rd dive at the inshore house reefs, returning at around 4.30 pm. Dinner was served at about 5.30 pm and night dives started at around 8 pm. The food served was varied and I cannot recall eating the same thing from the menu in the first seven days of the trip.

Diving: From this superb location we made more than 20 dives at the

stunning offshore reefs collectively known as Fury Shoal. The rib normally stopped on the South side of the reef, sheltered by the reef from the North wind and waves, giving us ample time to put on our equipment. The group would then be dropped on the Northern side of the reef, following the current towards South where the dive ends. The inshore house reefs that we dived included Shabrour reef, just a mile off-shore with quiet impressive formations of hard coral areas on the East and West reefs. The reef at Ras Bone forms a long coral block with three connected pinnacles in a straight line from North to South with tops from 7-14 metres, inhabited by a huge abundance of reef fish. Daisy and Gazelle (Habili Gazallah) are two reefs at the entrance to a large bay and we saw big fish at this site. A 25 minute

trip took us to the first offshore reefs and we dived areas like the North and South reefs of Lahami, the gateway to the offshore reefs abundant in both coral and fish species. In this area I got a glimpse of a small reef shark that was cruising in shallow water along the reef. The area’s most noted dive is certainly ‘The Stairway to Heaven’. The first part of this dive is much like the other dive sites with some rare large bushes of black coral, but just around the East corner, where the North to South current eases, a wonderful arrangement of hard corals rising from 20 to 8 metres form a stairway at the end of which an archway, with some of the best examples of soft corals, forms a stunning frame for the deep blue water on the West side of the reef. The arch is impressive, with one foot of the arch lying in very deep waters, probably the best place ever to perform decompression / safety

stops. Abu Galawa (father of pools) is a large reef with pools inside. On the Southern reef we dived the wreck of a yacht which sank during the 80’s at 18 metres before entering into the main pool. We also dived on a tugboat wreck that sank on the North reef at around 1945 with the bow just under the surface and the aft at 19 metres.

The inner side of the hulls was full of glass fish, while crocodile fish were also observed on the decks. With both wrecks surrounded by coral gardens, we could observe how the reef was taking over the boats’ hull. Other dived sites in the area included the pinnacles of Bloomen, Claudia and Indiana and also, the caverns a nd swim-troughs of Walking and Salah reefs. It took us about 45 minutes to reach the outer reefs, but the trip proved to be worth the humps and bumps that we had to endure on the rib. We dived at Malahi where it was very easy to get lost in the

lots of channels, caves, swim-troughs and holes which lead to the next like a network of channels. At Angel many pinnacles make up pools between the pinnacles and the reef. We entered the first pool, moving from one pool to the other, passing on top of the reef, until we reached the Southwest side of the reef, where we finished our dive.

At Satayah ‘Dolphin’ reef, the rib was anchored at the entrance to the lagoon and we snorkeled for more than an hour with a large school of bottlenose dolphins.

Unforgettable: Having arrived at Wadi Lahami Eco Village in the early hours of the morning, we woke up for a late breakfast, followed by a walk along the beach. Not willing to wait for our first dive in the same afternoon, I joined Joe

and Steve for some snorkeling inside the lagoon. Apart from the variety of fish we saw in the lagoon, like the five lionfish lying under a rock, we also saw a big turtle that Steve generously pointed to us using his ‘lungs to the full’. I remember saying to myself “What are we to expect at the offshore reefs if there is such abundance close to shore?”

In the following days I got the answer.

All dives had something to remember, like when we saw a 2 metre long Napoleon Wrasse at Habili Gazallah, the grand finale of the Stairway to Heaven at Lahami or snorkeling with the dolphins at Satayah. Even the crew left their mark on us. On one of the trips, the compass fell from the driving console to the rib’s floor. After playing football the rib’s driver, while still driving the rib, Mahmoud, the younger of the two crewmen, put the compass

back in its place, but upside down. This clearly showed us that they did not use a compass to get their bearings.

We asked them how they got their bearings to and from the reefs. Their answer was simple. In the morning they drive towards the sunrise (East) then, since they recognize the reefs’ shape and size they adjust the heading to where they have to go. On the way back they can see the land from the closest offshore reefs and adjust their heading with the contour of the land and the mountain range.

Non-diving Activity: On the last day prior to our departure, our dive guide organized for us a trip to the Camel Market at El Shalatin, the biggest camel market of the country, 280 km South of Marsa Alam and a 2 hour 140 km drive from Wadi Lahami, that we made

accompanied by two Italian couples.

For many years the area between Marsa Alam and the Sudanese border was closed. Bedouins tribes like the Rashaidas from Sudan with their purple Galabiyas visit the market to sell camels for cash or using the old traditional barter and trade method.

From the market the camels are taken to the loading area where trucks are backed up against natural ramps in the sand. The animals are loaded, ten to a truck, through a combination of coercion and brute force and tied down before being taken away. The market is also famous for handicrafts, herbs and other goods from African countries. We ate camel for lunch in a local restaurant ending with Bedouin coffee before heading back towards the village.

Dahab and Ras Mohammed. November 2011.

Destination: Following the death of my sister a few weeks before and the increasing effects on me of colon cancer, undiagnosed until the next year, this was probably the hardest and most uncertain departure I had ever endured. We left Malta towards Cairo airport to make a connection flight to Sharm el-Sheikh airport. When we arrived, we discovered that our luggage was still at Cairo airport and it was going to be available the following day.

We decided to take the two hour 90Km trip towards Hotel Rocketa, our hotel stay in the Mashraba area in Dahab.

The first night was dedicated to rest, eating and buying of basic needs at the village center. The following morning, the hotel management organized for us a van that took Joseph Azzoppardi, Alfred and myself back to Sharm elSheikh airport to recover the luggage

of the whole group while the others continued to explore the surrounding beach front. The adventure was soon to begin.

Accommodation, food and daily schedule: We stayed at the Rocketa Hotel in twin rooms opposite the swimming pool and adjacent to the outside bar area. Two steps down from this area and we found ourselves on the promenade’s walkway that would take us to the village center. This 1km walk was taken every night at a very slow pace, thus unwinding the day’s stresses and fatigues before having dinner in one of the restaurants in the area. The day started at 7am with buffet continental breakfast before heading towards the Seaview Hotel, just 40metres down the promenade, where we met the Seaview Divers Dahab personnel. We prepared our equipment which was then loaded on a van. On board a jeep we followed the van for a 30minute drive towards the chosen remote dive site. Upon arriving at the chosen dive site, our equipment was unloaded from the van onto two big carpets that were used to prevent having the equipment on the sand.

A luxury unheard of, in other more renowned dive sites worldwide. In certain areas, where we had lunch between dives, we were assigned a seating area that was reserved for us for the whole day. Some areas were so spacious that they had a

separate dining and equipment space adjacent to each other. Once seated comfortably on carpets and cushions, we were served with Egyptian teas and coffee. Following a briefing on site we entered the water for our first dive at around 10am. Once out of the water we ordered lunch, including Egyptian starters, fish, meat, chicken, wraps and even pizzas. Our second dive started at about 1pm and when finished, we left towards the dive shop and were back at the Rocketa Hotel at around 4pm. After a quick shower we were out towards the shops and later to one of the restaurants along the promenade to have our dinner. This included Egyptian starters like hommus (mashed chic-pea with tahini, lemon and garlic), eggplant dip, tabbuli salad (bulgar wheat, tomatoes and broccoli), dolma (stuffed vegetable) and falafel served with pita bread, fish or meat main courses, beer and shisha. We traded the content and price of our dinner, the Maltese way, with the restaurant owners and we had the pleasure of eating in the finest restaurants in the area including the Nemo, Funny Mummy, Same Same and Al Capone restaurants on the promenade and the King Chicken on the back road. Our most favorite restaurant and owner, was the Meya Meya (100%) Bedouin restaurant which we visited for at least three times during our stay. Although we would have loved to eat Chinese food in Egypt, we were ‘unlucky’ that the owners could not manage to serve

us, instead they helped themselves to our things! This event has become a story that we would recall whenever we mention Chinese food. The evening time was spent exploring the areas around the center especially the road where the main shops are located.

During our stay, Egyptians came to Dahab to celebrate Eid al-Adha (Sacrifice Feast). This Islamic religious holiday started on Sunday, 6 November and lasted 4 days. It honors the willingness of Abraham to sacrifice his son Ishmael as an act of submission to God’s command. Apart from tasting sweets made for this feast we also drank fruit and pressed sugar cane juice, a delicacy of the area.

Diving: We were prepared to do deep diving but unfortunately we had to change our plans due to the local regulations and the fact that the dive shop did not cater for the regulated deep technical dives. We had our first dive at the Caves about 15Km South of Dahab towards Gabr el Bint. After a few

metres walk out on the reef we entered the water just in front of the caves at a depth from 3 to 18metres, where a system of caverns has eroded back underneath the shoreline underwater probably due to wave action. The number and size of trumpet fish was phenomenal. In this same area we also dived Um Sid and the Three Pools sites, a mixture of sandy lagoons and coral gardens. Dive sites close to the dive center included the Islands and Lagoon at about 25metres where pinnacles have grown together over the ages to create valleys and lagoons, a coral maze which truly shows the Red Sea coral at its best. With practically no current, the Lighthouse Reef dive site offered us a variety of dives at varying depths down to about 30metres. We dived the East side along the sandy and sea grass slopes towards man made wreckages which make the area more interesting, and towards West we explored the various shelters that fish use to hide from predators on the offshore side of the reef. With careful planning, we managed to dive at Eel Garden an exposed site to the North prevailing wind that is only dived on calm days.

After entering the water from the shore via a small winding lagoon to a depth of 6metres, we swam due North onto a vast sand bank covered in garden eels at depths between 12 and 30metres.

It was amazing to see the eels retreat into their holes as we swam on top of them and pop back up again behind us. The current was strong during this

dive, something which did not affect a big school of tiny bait fish as we swam hidden through their thousands. Dive sites due North included the Canyon, a shore dive from a sandy lagoon, down amongst table corals leading to a canyon with a cave entrance at 23metres which exits at 12metres with fantastic light effects produced by the sun’s rays passing through fissures and crevices or shades produced by the steep canyon walls. A relaxing drift dive was started from Rick’s Reef where a shallow reef wall gently slopes down towards the drop-off on the way to the exit point at the Canyon. We stayed shallow and dived very slowly to about 20metres, observing the marine life coming from the Canyon.

Further North, about 12km from Dahab we dived the area known as the Blue Hole of Dahab, the ‘world’s most dangerous dive site’, due to the number of dive fatalities in the area. Entry and exit is made from the area known as the Saddle, at about 6metres, which is the only possible way in and out of the Blue Hole, on the East side of the reef.

The other options include swimming through the arch at about 56metres or crawling over the reef top. A dive where diver traffic is unavoidable is from the Bells to the Blue Hole. Entry is made through a pool, then vertically down a large vein of rock that has eroded out leaving a deep gash in the reef that drops to 15metres. The entry is so tight that it is practically inevitable to bang the tanks on the wall’s sides, thus

creating that peal of bells that gave this area its name. Another dive we made, as suggested by our instructor, started and ended at the Bells. Although the dive was amazing, we had to ‘fight’ our way out, the Maltese way, from the Bells because for some, this area is an entry only point.

On the sixth day of our diving holiday we left Dahab at about 5am and travelled back to Sharm el-Sheikh to take a day boat safari to Ras Mohammed National Park. We dived the wreck of the SS Thistlegorm, a British armed Merchant Navy ship built in 1940 and sunk on 6 October 1941, by far the most famous and popular wreck in the Red Sea. During the first dive we explored the outer sections of the ship starting from

the port side where the blast area can be found, then towards one of the steam locomotives which had been stored on deck, now lying on the sea bed and aft towards the antiaircraft gun and the rudder. We followed the starboard side ending the dive on the deck subjected to a heavy current. The second dive was made inside the wreck in holds 1 and 2 amongst BSA motorcycles, Bedford trucks, Lee Enfield rifles, ammunitions and rubber boots. At the end of the dive we took some photos with a crocodile fish that was left undisturbed at the boats mooring point on the wreck. On the way back we had lunch on the boat and stopped for the third dive at Shark Reef, a vertical wall covered in hard and soft corals and the Jolanda wreck, a 75metre long cargo ship transporting

bathroom supplies and a BMW to the port of Aqaba which struck the reef in 1980. The ship went beneath the waves in 1987 and its cargo now lies between the main reef and a wide plateau with a coral garden and masses of pinnacles.

Back on dry land at Sharm el-Sheikh, we explored the city center and the very busy Old Market before heading back to Dahab.

Another adventure for us started early on the morning of the eighth day and we travelled to the Blue Hole where our journey was to start. Because much of the coastline North of the Blue Hole is inaccessible to off road vehicles, we took a camel safari to dive the less-dived sites at Abu Galum

and experiencing a piece of Bedouin nomadic life. We took full advantage of the cool morning air on the hour ride towards the Northernmost dive site of the Sinai’s protected marine park. The camels carried us, including our dive gear, tanks, weight, food and water.

We were welcomed with the usual teas and coffee and served traditional Bedouin food cooked on open fire between dives. It was confirmed by the locals that we were the first Maltese to ever visit and dive this area. We headed back towards the Blue Hole, arriving at about 4.30pm.

Unforgettable: The SS Thistlegorm wreck stands for its reputation as the best wreck in the Red Sea. The two dives amongst big unexploded bombs and war relics leaves images imprinted in every diver’s mind. On the other hand, being among the first Maltese divers to dive Abu Galum and part of, probably, the only Maltese dive group to ever use camels as a means of transportation to a dive site is another unforgettable experience. As a whole group we cannot forget the interaction and friendly relationship that we had built with the locals, especially the shop owners of the younger generation.

Non-diving Activity: We depart from Dahab at 9am driving towards Nuweiba, from where we went off road though the heart of the desert, ending at a Bedouin outpost where we took tea under the palm shade. Here we climbed down the walls of the White

Canyon. The guided hike took us about 2hours, where we walked bare footed on cool white sand, passing through lime stone walls and crossing barren desert valleys to reach the refreshing oasis of Ein Khudra. We had lunch under the palm trees in the oasis, in a Bedouin settlement. On the way towards the Colored Canyon, we stopped by a rock, an unusual formation that looks like a tree or mushroom, thus the name Mushroom Rock. At the end of the 2hour trek, through Colored Canyon, the most stunning canyon in the Sinai Peninsula, we drove towards a sheltered valley, inhabited by a Bedouin family dedicated to camel farming. Late at night, under the tent and the stars, we took our last Bedouin dinner, cooked for us by our guide on open fire. Really tired, we went back to Dahab. On the last day my friends enjoyed a few hours off-roading on quad bikes in the inner-mountain and desert areas. I had to skip this part of the adventure and settled down to a relaxed hour on the beach followed by an Egyptian massage using pure oils.

M/Y Blue Horizon Liveaboard.

Destination: We left Malta towards Cairo airport to make a connection flight to Hurghada airport. We had an overnight stay at the ‘famous’ Bob Marley Hostel just off the El-Bahr coast road promenade. In the afternoon, we waited for transport in front of the Cinderella Hotel, which was to be the hotel where we spent our last night.

A 225Km three hour trip took us from Hurghada towards Port Ghalib Marina near Marsa Alam. At around 6pm we boarded the M/Y Blue Horizon, a 35metre diving liveaboard boat run

by Blue O Two. The crew showed us our rooms at the lower deck and we managed to prepare our equipment on the dive deck and record our details before the other English diving groups arrived.

or other types of fruit. Full English buffet breakfast was served at about 8.30am and everyone could choose from the day before how he wanted the eggs to be cooked including boiled, fried or scrambled. At 10am we had our second briefing followed by the second dive, then buffet lunch including soup and a variety of meat, fish, grains and vegetables. Briefing for the third dive of the day started at 1.30pm and dinner was served at about 6pm. During the day everyone could help himself to teas, coffees, soft drinks, water, alcoholic drinks, sweets, cakes and fruit from the self-service bar at the upper deck. In the evening, as part of Project Shark, we could learn about the biology and behavior of sharks in the Red Sea. Elke Bojanowski Ph.D dive guide, marine biologist and founder of the Red Sea Sharks trust (www.redseasharks.org) conducted a 5day 60minute very informative and educational lecture regards sharks in the Red Sea.

Accommodation, food and daily schedule: The cabins included two beds, a bedside table, a small wardrobe and a toilet room with shower. My roommate for the trip was Joseph Azzoppardi. We started the day at 6.30am with a dive briefing and the dive groups were assigned. We were called Team Malta and normally we entered the water together. Once out of the water and on the dive deck we were offered ‘Ghasir’, an Egyptian word meaning juice, made of banana, orange

Diving: In the early morning we left Port Ghalib towards Marsa Shuna, a sheltered bay about 8kms due South.

Our first check dive was done in poor visibility owing to the fact that debris is carried in the bay by the North current flowing around the reef on the East side, which is the opening to the bay.

The second dive was a rib dive on the South shore of the bay. Here we saw and played with many turtles, the largest one measured about 2metres in length. After the night dive we left due

October 2013.

Project shark: Simply the Best.

North towards Brother Islands at the Northernmost part of Egypt’s offshore marine park, a journey of more than 100kms and we anchored at Big Brother Island in the early hours of the morning.

This trip left its mark on many divers on the boat with signs of sea sickness clearly visible on their faces during the morning briefing. Team Malta braved the trip very well and was prepared to dive. Big Brother is 400metres long and the larger of the two islands, with an 1880s lighthouse marking the reef.

The plateau on the Southeast corner is dotted with coral mountains and during the first dive we saw a very big thresher shark. In the afternoon, we dived the Western side of the island,

where two wrecks lie almost vertical on the side of the reef. We started the dive on the Numidia, a large cargo steamer which sank in 1901 covered in corals and lies on the Northwestern tip of the island with the bow at 10metres sloping down to 80metres and frequented by large pelagics. On the way back to the boat we passed on the smaller wreck, the Aida, a lighthouse authority supply vessel which sank in bad weather in 1957 with the upper section at 25metres. The following day we anchored and dived at Little Brother, a 200metre long island with an incredible concentration and variety of marine life including a pristine fan coral

forest amongst hard and soft corals. In all the three dives we saw thresher and grey reef sharks but it was the last dive on the North side of the reef that was to be the best of Brother Islands. We were dropped on the Northeast side and dived in the blue where we saw a large hammerhead shark coming up from the deep, then just as we turned around the North corner, those who were still in the deeper part of the dive had a close encounter with a thresher shark at the ‘cleaning station’, where small fish clean parasites and dead skin from large pelagic fish. The 180km trip towards Daedalus reef proved to be easier on the guests maybe due

to the North winds coming from the back. Recognized by its zebra-striped lighthouse, Daedalus is the biggest reef in the Marine Park. The day’s first two dives were done on the Northern side using ribs with the last daily dive done on the Eastern side ending under the boat. During the two day stay, of which I had to skip three dives due to travelers’ diarrhea, I saw a manta ray, big barracudas and a napoleon wrasse.

The Malta Team also sighted thresher and grey reef sharks. Another 100km night trip took us towards Elphinstone reef, a finger-like reef about 250metres in length with walls that plunge vertically towards the deep. We dived twice on the South plateau on a garden of soft corals and gorgonians. I planned to stay on the same spot on the plateau at about 20metres, to conserve air, looking upwards towards the surface and under the boats waiting for the action to happen. Having rested for a day I wanted my stay in the water to be as long as possible. This paid up and as soon as I saw divers swimming and pointing fingers, I knew that sharks were sighted. I ascended slowly and positioned myself between two dive groups in the path of the circling Oceanic White Tip sharks. After about 45minutes most of the divers from the three liveaboard boats in the area had left the water and after 60minutes there were only Hose and Elke, two instructors / guides from our boat and myself in the water with three Oceanic White Tip sharks circling around us.

Then I ‘decided’ I had to touch a shark (like Alfred!). I positioned myself in the path of the shark, looked towards the two instructors, and when the shark passed by I touched the base of the dorsal fin towards the tail. As the shark progressed in its swim, the tail touched my side and this was a clear indication for me that it was time to get out of the water, I was the last diver out. In the second dive, everyone stayed shallow, in the 15metre mark, to have enough time to admire these wonderful sharks.

We left towards Port Ghalib in the afternoon, with another stop at Marsa Shuna for the last dive.

Unforgettable: Our stay at the Bob Marley Hotel will be forever unforgettable, Team Malta knows why!

This trip leaves unforgettable images in my memory. These include the very big turtle at Marsa Shuna, the large thresher and grey reef sharks at Brother Islands and touching the Ocean White Tip shark at Elphinstone.

Non-diving Activity: We explored the marina in Port Ghalib, a wonderful piece of architecture. We visited the local souvenir and dive shops and admired the dive boats and yachts along the jetty. On the last day, we explored the inner part of Hurghada which lacked the tourists that normally visited this place. At the Joker restaurant we ate a seafood platter before returning back to the Cinderella Hotel for our last night.

The Area’s Pros and Cons.

Wadi Lahami: In some sea conditions the journey to the morning off shore dive sites can be quiet physically demanding and may not be suitable for people with back problems and photographic equipment needs to be stored well to avoid being damaged. In full contact with nature all the time, well away from the hustle of tourist areas, in great comfort, relaxation and serenity where even the use of mobile phones is restricted in some areas. The last remaining place in Egypt’s Red Sea where sea life can be observed in its natural state due to the small number of divers in the area.

Dahab: Relaxed, relaxed diving and daily life.

The Bedouins of the area called the place ‘waqaat thahaab’ which translates to ‘time goes’, probably from the fact that when you are in Dahab, you could easily lose track of time as the days would begin to run together. The name, shortened to ‘Thahaab’ was misunderstood by travelers who thought they were saying Dahab. If planning for deep or technical diving, it would be best to contact a technical diving dive-shop in Dahab as those who cater for recreational divers will decline to make any deep or technical dives.

M/Y Blue Horizon Liveaboard: The boat setup, services and experience as a whole was above standard. Project shark enables the diver to learn more about the areas’ most sought creatures, sharks!

The only thing to change in the dive trip would be the time spent at Daedalus. The reef, although big, does not offer the same experience and excitement as other reefs of smaller size. This would have to be evaluated depending on the month of travel and on the sightings recorded during that particular month in the previous year. A one day stay is ideal at Daedalus, while preferably dedicating a whole day at Elphinstone instead of half day. If planning to dive this route, it is advisable to take proper medication due to long distances traveled on open water between sites. Please read the article ‘Live-aboard Diving’ in the January-February 2014 issue of the Bubbles e-Magazine.

These were diving experiences that I will never forget.

Great friends make trips to great diving places such an experience. These trips would not have been possible without careful planning, especially with the political situation in Egypt in the last years. I would like to thank the man behind these three successful voyages to the land of the Pharaohs, Joseph Azzoppardi Falzon. We are all waiting to see your plans for our next diving destination.

Egypt ……. if I had to go back again, I would choose ….. Dahab!

Enjoy safe diving,

Dorian Law

Species Page Research & photos by: Edward Vella

This is certainly not one of the ‘glamour’ fishes – the lowly red mullet is encountered either in what seem to be rest parties or individually stirring up the sediment with its oversize ‘whiskers’. There are two species active in the Mediterranean the striped red mullet Mullus surmuletus (Maltese: Trilja tal-Faxxi) and the red mullet Mullus barbatus (Maltese: Trilja Bla Faxxi). Perhaps their Italian names are more appropriate and revealing since their names reflect their habitat – the striped red mullet is called Triglia di Scoglio – to be found on the reef, and the red mullet Triglia di Fango – to be found on mud / sediment.

The main visible distinguishing feature between the two mullets (by the way there is absolutely no relation to the grey thick mullet – Maltese: Mulett Kaplat) is their dorsal fin which is striped reddish brown and yellow in the case of the of the striped red mullet, and colourless and transparent for the red mullet.

This fish is considered as being a good

Red Mullet catch (even though it has got it share of spines), and in some countries like Italy, it is even considered as being a delicacy – and this is not just in modern times.

The ancient Romans were so fond of the red mullet that the more wealthy citizens actually had pools built in their villas where they could rear this then much appreciated fish.

The characteristic feature of this species are their ‘whiskers’ or as they should be called (since there are two of them) – their barbels – one on each chin. In fact these have led to the fish also being known as goat fish in some countries. The barbels are used to sift into sand and sediment to find and catch their prey such as shrimps, crabs, worms, molluscs and also other fish.

While researching this article, it was found that female red mullet grow larger than males – in the Mediterranean the maximum size for males is 23 cm and 34 for females. While diving for example at Wied iz-Zurrieq and even at Cirkewwa, groups of

(Trilja)

Photo: Tano Rolé

striped red mullet are frequently observed in the same sandy locations. They seem to favour particular places – like for example next to the cave at Wied iz-Zurrieq, and just on the edge of the drop off in the beginners’ area at Cirkewwa. Apparently, the individuals that we see in these ‘red mullet haunts’ should be juveniles, since the older ones move off to deeper water where they can expect to live for about ten years – if they can avoid the bottom trawling nets that is!

July-Aug ­- Salema - Xilep Photo: Edward Vella

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Photo: Edward Vella

Understanding and Conserving Biodiversity

By The Biological Conservation Research Foundation (BICREF) on The International Biodiversity Day, 22nd of May 2014

Biodiversity – is in actual fact, our lifeline, our goods and services, our present and future natural capital, our source for heritage and cultural development which has shaped societies in thousands of ways from providing necessities of food, water and air to providing inspirations for artistic, engineering, medical and scientific creations. It is appropriate to have a day dedicated to celebrate such important constituents of our lives.

The terms “Biological Diversity” refer to all life on Earth, from the smallest bacteria to the largest whale. In more detail, biodiversity represents diversity of genes, species and ecosystems which constitute the immense array of living options and dynamics on our planet Earth.

The theme “Island Biodiversity” was chosen for 2014 by the UN “to strengthen the implementation of the Programme of Work on Island Biodiversity”.

The UN report that “Islands and their surrounding near-shore marine areas constitute unique ecosystems often comprising many plant and animal species that are endemic—found nowhere else on

Earth. The legacy of a unique evolutionary history these ecosystems are irreplaceable treasures. Island ecosystems also contribute to the maintenance of ecosystem functions: they provide defence against natural disasters, support nutrient cycling, and soil and sand formation; and they contribute to the regulation of climate and diseases.

The components of biodiversity and the ecosystem services they provide is all the more critical on islands. Island economies are among the most vulnerable of the developing countries, considering the relative lack of economic alternatives available” (https://www.cbd.int/idb/).

The Mediterranean is also considered a hotspot for biodiversity and our Maltese islands have been shown to contribute to such important and unique biodiversity through ongoing conservation biology research by the Conservation Biology Research Group of the University of Malta and assisting volunteers of the Biological Conservation Research Foundation (BICREF). These conservation science groups recognise the need for an EU policy that formulates all encompassing regulations that would address the vulnerability of small island member states to maritime issues and problems. They recognise the need to strive for sustainable development research, amongst other things, through conservation science – especially the conservation of marine biodiversity at genetic, species and ecosystem levels.

This is particularly so for the Maltese Islands, since island biodiversity is not only

of vital importance to island dwellers but are as the UN report “repositories of genetic information whose present-day biodiversity stands as a record of millions of years of evolution. This biodiversity has an inherent value to humankind the world over”.

Integrating the great multitude of human needs with biodiversity needs is not easy and demands science that is interdisciplinary in nature, like conservation biology is, to assist development of policies and management that have a long-term focus as much as considering immediate needs.

This subject area has been developing locally and Dr. Vella has been instrumental in developing educational courses and research projects locally and abroad.

The Conservation Biology Research Group (CBRG) in collaboration with various entities, such as, BICREF volunteers, the AFM, Transport Malta, Fishermen, SCUBA centres and sea-users, has been for many years developing long-term monitoring efforts to promote data collection for scientific research and effective conservation management.

The CBRG has locally pioneered, since 1998, the first conservation genetics research projects focusing on various species, including Bluefin tuna, sharks, rays, Dusky groupers, crustaceans, echinoderms, molluscs, coastal fish, etc. This research group led by Dr. Adriana Vella has also launched long-term field research projects on dolphins, whales, turtles, sharks and rays and many other species that had never been studied before in their own

environment in such detail before these projects started in 1997. Many other species have been studied as part of this ongoing marine biodiversity conservation project.

Biodiversity research does not just entail the discovery of species present in or around our islands but deserves detailed research starting of from actual field work to laboratory investigations and analyses which use the latest techniques in molecular genetics. The CBRG has uniquely developed the whole extent of biodiversity research needs even though funds have been limited at the University to undertake such necessary and ambitious task. One cannot risk reporting declines or extinctions of species when these are not indeed so, same way, one cannot assume abundance of natural resources when indeed the dynamics and genetics of the populations are not even well known.

Unfortunately short-cuts in assessments leading to superficial conclusions may have long-lasting repercussions for the future of our biodiversity. May this International day dedicated to Biological Diversity allow us to consider more seriously the significance of safeguarding this vital resource effectively, allowing us to reach the 2020 target with the scientific knowledge that may improve policy structures and management strategies.

The non-profit volunteer eNGO, BICREF (VO/0060), has been at the fore in promoting biodiversity conservation and to bring biodiversity in every home

through its educational documentaries for local TV since 2002. It continues with its efforts through the dedicated work of its local and foreign volunteers who join various projects, including work in the field, both on land and out at sea.

To consider possible monitoring and consequences on our marine biodiversity from ongoing human activities along our coasts, BICREF has been collaborating with SCUBA diving centres to promote reports on a cross-section of marine species. A citizen science project launched in the year 2000. This effort has revealed that while certain species are increasing others have been decreasing drastically. Studies on fisheries and their landing statistics by the CBRG also found that there are declines in many fish stocks exploited locally, the causes for these declines may be various

pointing towards the need for fisheries research and management which involve the fishermen too.

One would therefore need to consider local and regional findings in the light of discoveries by scientists of international repute, such as Dr. Daniel Pauly and his team, that have indicated for some time that the larger, more valuable predatory fish, such as tuna, cod and grouper, have been systematically overfished, with the result that fishing effort was shifting to less desirable species further down the food chain. This ‘fishing down the food web,” wrote Dr. Pauly, would in time reduce marine biodiversity. Other researchers have also shown that “fishing down” also applies to regions such as the Mediterranean sea and results in the reverse of the usual evolutionary sequence, where a gradual

loss of large organisms, species diversity, and structural diversity, and a gradual replacement of marine mammals and bony fishes by more primitive groups such as invertebrates, notably jellyfishes, would be observed.

Nature exploitation is only one of the series of factors affecting biodiversity in our waters. There are various other influential factors to consider including increasing types of pollution, disturbances, traffic and climate change impacts on the marine environment which add pressure. With all this in mind we may realise why the Marine Strategy Framework Directive will demand and depend on rigorous science and longterm data to really plan an effective way forward and to achieve conservation of biodiversity.

Photo: Dr Adriana Vella

“The aim of the European Union’s ambitious Marine Strategy Framework Directive is to protect more effectively the marine environment across Europe. The Marine Directive aims to achieve Good Environmental Status (GES) of the EU’s marine waters by 2020 and to protect the resource base upon which marine-related economic and social activities depend. It is the first EU legislative instrument related to the protection of marine biodiversity, as it contains the explicit regulatory objective that “biodiversity is maintained by 2020”, as the cornerstone for achieving GES.” (http:// ec.europa.eu/environment/marine/eucoast-and-marine-policy/marine-strategyframework-directive)

Photo: Dr Adriana Vella

Photo: Dr Adriana Vella

JOIN US AND SHARE THE INCREDIBLE JOY OF CONSERVATION

Dolphin Rescue at Dwejra – 30 Years on

Between June 20th and July 1st 1984, (that’s thirty years ago) a unique event occurred in the locality of Dwejra, Gozo.

Two dolphins were stranded within the Inland Sea and were apparently unable to return back to the open ocean. The Qawra (the Maltese name for the Inland Sea) at Dwejra is a shallow, semi-circular pool of sea water (about 100 metres across) which is only some 5 metres at its deepest. It is connected to the outer sea by a narrow tunnel passing through a cliff face, which is only navigable to small boats.

My part in this rescue operation started with a ‘phone call from Tony Lautier, a good friend and a champion for the marine environment. Tony ran the Dive centre at the Comino Hotel and we often buddied up to dive around the island on his day off. So it was not surprising to get a call on Saturday from Tony; I expected he had some plans for a couple of dives during the weekend. What surprised me was that

he was thinking of a rescue attempt for the Dwejra dolphins and asked me whether I wanted to be a part of this.

These dolphins had featured in the news media all through late June 1984. They were trapped in the small Inland Sea at Dwejra for ten days and had become a considerable tourist, and local, attraction.

Several attempts had been made to rescue them, including the AFM’s Task Force and the SPCA but, every time, the dolphins merely danced around the would-be rescuers.

The unfortunate aspect of this accidental circus at Dwejra is that the dolphins were showing increasing signs of distress and were ignoring the dead fish that some kind-hearted persons had been throwing at them. “Did I want to be a part of a rescue attempt?” – I cannot remember my exact response but it probably consisted of something super affirmative possibly coloured by an unprintable adjective!

Article Tano Rolé

I assumed that everyone would jump at a chance like that so I called Mario Micallef, another one of my dive buddies and asked him whether he would like to join us.

His response was similar to mine so we promptly drove up to Marfa where Tony was waiting for us with his aluminium dive boat.

We may have had noble intentions but we really needed a plan. How could we get a pair of dolphins out of the Inland Sea causing the least possible stress on the animals? I came up with a “brilliant” idea.

We would dive at night and illuminate the way out with our underwater torches. The dolphins would just follow us, through the passage, to the sea outside – piece of cake!

There was just a tiny flaw in this plan – wild dolphins are NOT pet dogs that would trot along beside you and follow in your steps!

Well, it was worth a try anyway. My hopes were dashed when we got underwater and all we could see were a couple of swirling grey shapes in the distance which refused to come anywhere near us let alone follow us to salvation.

We reverted to plan B. Tony had constructed a net made out of stout nylon rope and we used this to try to herd the dolphins towards the passage to the outer sea. I held one end while Mario, Tony, and several swimming volunteers held up the net at various points. Of course, the dolphins were anything but cooperative; they just ran circles around us with the greatest of ease. They swam below the net, above it, and around the sides. Well, at least we were providing the dolphins with an evening of entertainment! It never ceases to amaze me how painfully

slow and ungainly divers are underwater.

Calling us frogmen is a compliment to us and an insult to frogs.

We gave up sometime around one o’clock in the morning. We were cold, exhausted, and it was pretty obvious that we were getting nowhere. The batteries in my torches had also given up so we were working in the dark and it was getting increasingly dangerous since the swimmers started getting cramps. We retreated to the pebble beach and the slipways, got out of our wetsuits, and hung them up in the vain hope that they would dry before the morning’s fresh attempt.

I remember waking up at six o’clock the following morning; still tired and aching from having slept on a pebble beach but I must have been made of sterner stuff during those days. I got out of the sleeping bag wondering how mosquitoes had somehow managed to get inside to drink half my blood. Gazing across the Inland Sea I was surprised to see the dolphins playing with the floats that buoyed the net. It was ironic that they had avoided the net all evening while they were now messing about with its floats! I pointed this out to Tony who was making coffee and he just grunted in assent.

Like myself, some of the volunteers were waking up but some were still sleeping.

Saviour, one of the volunteers, had slept on the slipway of one of the boathouses and was trussed up like an Egyptian mummy.

He must have suffered from mosquito bites as well and had drawn the zipper of the sleeping bag all the way over his head. Two elderly gentlemen stood over

him and were patiently waiting for him to get up so they could get their boat down the slipway. Tony approached to hand me a cup of coffee and asked the fishermen why they were waiting. In hushed words, they explained that they were waiting for the young man to get up but they did not want to disturb him. At this point, Tony moved quietly away towards his boat and returned with a pressurised air horn. He opened the zipper of the sleeping bag, inserted the trumpet, closed the zipper for maximum effect, and let loose a blast that echoed throughout the Inland Sea. Saviour was up like the proverbial shot. Now I have heard of people’s hair standing on end when they are startled but Saviour’s beard was also standing on end! Poor Saviour, he was too stunned to speak and hurl abuse but I do remember that he did not appreciate this wake up call.

After an improvised, quick, breakfast we

were back in the water. Tony had extended his thick net by weaving another few metres and we were hoping that this would make all the difference. At this point, a fishing boat entered the Inland Sea and we asked them whether they would deploy their trammel net and help us corner the dolphins. This fine-meshed trammel net was paid out but I was really upset to see that there were a couple of large holes in it. These would have allowed the dolphins to escape so I freedived down and tried to tie up the edges of one of the holes. While I was doing this, I could hear the high pitched calling of the dolphins. The trammel net had separated the two of them and they were getting increasingly restless. One of them approached the net and I dived down to place myself, spread-eagled, in front of the gaping hole. The dolphin merely sidestepped me and simply tore through

that part of the trammel net, which was still intact, without any apparent effort. I could not believe it – I still remember the zipping sound as the net tore away. I was awestruck but also felt really foolish. We were dealing with wild animals after all and this dolphin could have easily head-butted me out of the way. It avoided hurting me and risked getting caught in the net. What absolutely wonderful creatures they are!

Somehow, with all the splashing, nets, boats, and swimmers, we managed to herd the dolphins into the shallow waters on the northern side of the bay. Once confined to shallow water, we realised just how big the dolphins were. We did not measure them since we were far more concerned for their safety rather than any scientific research but we do know that one of them was smaller than the other and that they were both female. This tended to support the explanation of how they

got into the Inland Sea. We were told that one of the dolphins became entangled in some nets and was towed behind the fishing boat into the Inland Sea. This would have allowed the fishermen to wade in the shallow water and release the dolphin without tearing up their nets. The other dolphin just followed the boat; possibly because they were mother and daughter.

When the dolphins were safely secured, we devised a plan to tow them behind Tony’s aluminium boat on a half-inflated dinghy.

While preparations were being made for the tow, I had the privilege of holding the larger dolphin’s head in my lap as I squatted down on the gravel beach. Mario took care of the other dolphin. We held them so they would not trash about against the nylon net or scrape their skin on the gravel. I kept splashing water on “my” dolphin’s back to keep it cool and shaded its eyes. I also stroked it gently to reassure it bearing in

mind that excessive handling could cause damage to the protective film over its skin. I could also monitor its heartbeat on my thighs; initially counting 160 beats per minute which came down to 80 beats per minute after some ten minutes and subsequently stabilising at 120 beats.

All of this I remember as if it was yesterday – not 30 years ago. They say that the sense of smell is the sense which sticks most in your memory. Well, the smell of fish which characterised the dolphin’s exhaled breath still monopolizes a large part of my memory. Its blowhole was just under my face and, as it breathed out, I kept getting a heavy dose of fish-breath! Meanwhile, Tony got a pair of pliers and cut away some rope and fishing lines which had got caught at the base of the tail flipper. These lines must have been there for some time since they had left some deep scars.

Once the preparations were completed, we gently moved the dolphins onto the half-deflated dinghy and started towing them out through the passage. Tony asked me to film the final release of the dolphins and handed me his Eumig underwater

Super8 movie film camera. I put on my scuba gear and headed outside the tunnel into the open sea. The water is pretty deep in that location – starting from 32 metres just outside the tunnel and dropping off to 60 metres just a few metres further out.

I had to watch my depth and hovered in mid-water just some 5 to 10 metres below the approaching boat with the dinghy in tow.

It was a wonderful sight and I eagerly switched on the camera. I framed the boat against the surface and waited impatiently for the first dolphin to be released. Unlike modern video cameras, film only lasts for a few minutes and I wanted to save it. Despite my impression, the first dolphin was quickly released and it was the larger dolphin that was released first. It headed straight at me and I kept filming. In contrast to their keeping a healthy distance in the inland Sea, this dolphin now circled me within touching distance; sometimes rubbing against me.

I am absolutely sure that it recognised me as the fellow who was cradling her head on the gravel beach and that it realised

that we were only trying to help them.

Meantime it was communicating with the other dolphin and I could feel their high pitched calls resonating through my body.

The second dolphin was finally released and “my” dolphin rose up to greet it and then they were both by my side circling me a few times while I kept filming. I was in underwater heaven!

It was over far too quickly. They both dived down and disappeared from view but, from my location 10 metres underwater, they seemed to have headed back towards the Inland Sea tunnel and my heart missed a beat. We have all heard about beached whales and dolphins heading back towards the beaches they had been saved from.

I was afraid of this and, upon surfacing, I asked the boat crew whether they saw the dolphins again. We even went back into the inland Sea to make sure they had not returned and were satisfied that they were now free in the open sea.

We were elated. As we headed out of the Inland Sea again, we saw a small flotilla of boats travelling from Malta headed for the Inland Sea to see the dolphins. Some even

hurled abuse at us for having released them! I was still so happy that I did not care. In fact, I was even more convinced that we had done the right thing. All those propellers in a restricted pond were a recipe for disaster. Sometimes our love for dolphins comes at a heavy price for these lovely creatures.

There is an epilogue to this event. Tony claims that he saw these two dolphins about a week later. He was on the way to a dive site when two dolphins approached his boat and kept pace with him for some time. He recognised the dolphins from the scars that one of them had at the base of its tail flipper. I like to think it’s their way of saying thank you.

I had been racking my brain trying to come up with a witty, terse, and captivating title for this article and, despite finishing the piece, I still cannot think of a decent one.

I had toyed with the idea of naming this “Free Willies at Dwejra!?” but thought better of it since it may lead to undesirable misinterpretations. Perhaps it is more prudent to keep it as it is.

Ras ir-Raheb

- Malta 18.05.14

Article by Edward Vella

Someone noted that when we dive Ras ir-Raheb at this time of the year, it is often rainy. By coincidence, this had occurred to me as well on the day, but in reality, anyone with a minimum of knowledge of Maltese weather should have realised that this site is mostly chosen when there is an easterly wind forecast. Easterlies are known to be humidity laden, and therefore the carriers of rain… well on the day, clouds were low, but it was not raining. An energetic easterly was causing the Atlantis II to fidget uneasily at the quay in Marfa, and there was more of that once out of the shelter afforded by the Qammieh headland and with the wind hitting broadside, but once beneath the cliffs at Ras irRaheb, the sea calmed down – calm enough to answer the question we were asking ourselves – yes, conditions were good enough to allow us to enter the cave – well more precisely, both caves.

The cave at the foot of the Ras ir-Raheb cliffs is accessed through a corridor like entrance which then leads to a large roughly round shaped chamber. We had started the dive outside the cave, but one can easily enter the cave on the surface and start the dive there – in fact this would enable observation of the above water section of the cave – perhaps something to aim for next time.

Once inside we immediately located the vertical shaft. I remember having some reservations the descending for the first time, but today I really look forward going that way because I know that once arrived at the bottom (depth about 23m), there awaits one of the most Berthella ocellata suggestive underwater locations that one can find diving around Malta. The shaft leads into a sort of corridor, at the end of which is the cave’s exit. The sea at the end seems to be alight in electric blue, bathing the high curving walls in blue light – too beautiful for words.

Once out of the cave, the reef drops dramatically below. This time we turned to the right and headed for the second cave – Ghar it-Trozz. There are around around thirty minutes of slow finning between the two caves, and we purposely limited our max depth to about 35 metres, to that we would still have some time in the second cave.

Given that this dive lasted 73 minutes, one cannot really complain!

As to sea life, a few minutes after exiting, we found a large slipper lobster out in the open, it seemed to me that this did not seem typical of since most of my slipper lobster sightings were beneath shady overhangs. We also found a couple of ‘cow’ nudibranchs (Discodoris atromaculata), as well as an interesting reddish Berthella ocellata. There were also strings of drifting tunicates, which are common at this time of the year.

As to non-sea and actually non-life encounters, we came upon a spot where some misguided soul actually went through the trouble of carting bits of air conditioning vents, panels, window frames, a and a pram frame over rough terrain and then tip them over the cliff.. ah yes there was also like what looked to be a fully serviceable bicycle, which a couple of divers were actually tempted to salvage! Hope is the last to dive!

The pressure gauges were hovering around the 50 -60 bar mark when we got to Ghar itTrozz, that meant that we kept to about 10m and entered as far in as it was possible to surface – still lots and lots to see, but really this cave would warrant a dive on its own or at least enter the cave with a fresh tank.

Looking forward to another dive at Ras irRaheb / Ghar it-Trozz….

Base photo: Joe Formosa

Scyllarus latus

Photo: Edward Vella

Flabellina affinis

Photo: Joe Formosa

Photo: Joe Formosa

Photo: Edward Vella

Blata tal-Melh to Ghar it-Trozz Cave The original plan for this boat dive was to anchor off Blata tal-Melh and dive around that site but a persistent slight swell from the southeast rendered it rather uncomfortable; especially for those who are more prone to seasickness. We have often encountered such conditions near Blata tal-Melh where even a slight sea is magnified by reflections off the wall and this produces a confusing condition which rocks the boat in an unpleasant fashion. I am rather lucky in that I do not suffer sea sickness but kitting up in such conditions is not pleasant at all.

It did not take long for us to decide to move onto Tat-Trozz cave where sea conditions were far more favourable.

This cave is located only a couple of hundred metres northwest of Blata talMelh and the slight indentation of the coastline affords some protection from the elements. Of course, as a cave diver, I find this dive site far more interesting than the original choice.

I wrote a description of Tat-Trozz cave back in March 2011 in my article published in Bubbles that month: Tat-Trozz has an interesting shape and extends several metres above the current sea level. It is quite evident that the part of the cave located above the water surface experienced episodic, semi-hemispheric, collapse and most of the boulders from this cave-in can now be seen below the waterline. The inner part of the cave exhibits more vertical development and the actual sandy bottom of the cave is

a mere three metres wide; occasionally interrupted by a couple of boulders.

The innermost chamber is more circular but still relatively narrow compared to the outer parts. Of course, this shape suggests that the cave owes its origins to partial faulting, solution processes focused at varying sea levels, and subsequent widening of the joint by wave action.

soon realised that the “new” species was nothing more than a leaf, probably from a seaside squill (basla tal-Ansar?), which must have fallen into the sea off the cliff.

A more undesirable trove was a plastic food container which some idiot must have thrown away from the cliff into the sea.

Nothing much has changed since the last time we were there.

Malta 25.05.14 Article by Tano Rolé

Towards the end of the dive we were rewarded with some interesting jellyfish. Many species tend to be driven by longshore currents into this cave and some colonial jellies, hovering just outside the cave, provided some good photographic opportunities. It’s just a pity I could not avail myself fully of this opportunity. I tried to shoot some pictures framing the subject against the surface, utilising Snell’s window, but the current would just not cooperate in this.

It may just be possible that this is an excuse meant to hide my photographic limitations! Safe diving to all. Tano.

Base photo: Joe Formosa

The only notable change, on my part, is the fact that I now have a better underwater camera system and I managed to get a few photos inside the cave which reveal its shape in better detail.

Of course, I used the camera outside the cave as well. One curious object attracted the attention of many of my buddies who were also in possession of a camera. One of these photographers, in particular, was taking a whole lot of photos of something that looked like the tail-end of a moray eel. We all congregated at this spot but

A congregation of Bristle worms (Hermodice caranculata) were making a meal out of the remains of the contents.

It never ceases to amaze me how some people – for want of a better description – are stupid enough to discard unwanted material into the sea. I just hope that there will be more awareness of the dangers of plastics to marine life and urge all divers to play their part in bringing this to the attention of all sectors of the public – especially those connected with some aspect of the marine environment.

Photo: Tano Rolé

Ras il-Hobz Undoubtedly this is one of the boat dive sites with most hits – this is not by chance – but due to the prevalent wind direction in the Maltese Islands, this being the North Westerly. When it is blowing from this direction, the choice of sites narrows down considerably, and since our boat dive departure point is Marfa - on the Northernmost part of Malta – it makes sense to seek shelter on the South facing coast of Gozo. I am sure you have come across this one before in the Bubbles Dive Logs!

So this was another dive at Ras il-Hobz – the feature of this particular dive that will remain in memory, is the carpet of many thousands of jellyfish right at the entry point – these were Pelagia noctulica a.k.a. the dreaded mauve stingers. This time also with very long tentacles! This necessitated wearing full neoprene – or else! In the water the jellyfish were really one big mass, driven by the current into the inlet where the Atlantis II was anchored – that was one surreal environment!

Leaving the Atlantis II and heading due South, one can notice that the reef starts sloping down, and then drops off vertically from 15 to about 30 metres. We did not however descend, but stayed parallel with the reef top and headed East – keeping a lookout to sea ward for the prime attraction of this site – the huge pinnacle formation at the edge of the lower reef – or as it has come to be very recently known in tourist diving brochures – the ‘middle finger’!

On the day visibility was moderate, so it did pay to keep a lookout to seaward!

Actually it is situated; I would estimate

- Gozo 01.06.14

Article by Edward Vella

about 30 to 40 metres from the upper reef wall. I say upper because there is actually another reef terrace which is at about 35 to 40 metres depth. Close to the base of the pinnacle and at the base of the lower reef is an old anchor which lies in approximately 60 metres.

The dive then follows a slow upward spiral around the ‘middle finger’, the surface of which is covered in recesses. One comes across several large tube worms or spirographis (Spirographis spallanzani).

Since this is a free standing column shape, currents flow to either side of it – actually to landward side, it would be fair

to presume that the current flows faster due to a venturi effect because of the close proximity of the reef – supplying a constant supply of nutrients to the them.

This time there was no sizeable sea life observed but at the summit there was what must be a resident shoal of two banded sea bream (Diplodus vulgaris Maltese: Xirgien) and a large purple Flabellina affinis nudibranch. Then from the summit it was off to the upper reef edge and a slow (there was a current helping!) fin back to the Atlantis II (and the jellies).

Photo: Edward Vella

Flabellina affinis

Base photo: Joe Formosa

Photo: Edward Vella Spirographis spallanzani

Photo: Edward Vella

Photo: Joe Formosa

Photo: Edward Vella

Pelagia noctulica

From Ras id-Dawwara to Ghar id-Dwieb aka

il-Qaws

’Nudifest’ No, this title is not what you may be thinking.

It is not a new theme for a festa organised by one of our Local Councils where excessive food and drink would be served - possibly with waiters/waitresses in their birthday suits (I should refrain from giving them silly ideas – they may just take it seriously!).

Nor is it another attempt by the Maltese (?) nudist association to carve out a piece of our coastline for their exclusive enjoyment.

The nudists we are referring to are slugs; more precisely marine slugs. The only nudi bits about them are their gills (well...let’s

- Malta 08.06.14 Article & photos by Tano Rolé

leave it at that!) which, in some groups, are often exposed in the form of a flower-like structure on their backs. Terrestrial slugs are a truly drab affair, mostly dark green or black, but sea slugs are a wonderful riot of colour and they seem to have been created to capture the imagination of all underwater photographers.

Our dive plan was to comb the southern cliff walls of the embayment in the search for particularly photogenic species of nudibranchs (also known as Opisthobranchs). We had seen quite a few

sea slugs, in this area, on previous occasions so we were quite hopeful of achieving our aim. I was also hoping to find some Dorids (Discodoris atromaculata) in deeper waters so we started off the dive by going down to some 40 metres. This is where I had found some beautiful Dorids on a previous dive but, unfortunately, we found none during this dive.

to get into or out of the bay. Long lines are also regularly deployed from the cliffs at Ras id-Dawwara to some other point across the bay. In fact, on our last trip to this site, one such line was being hauled in from the cliff at Ras id-Dawwara. This happened just while we were at the surface before we started our dive and a bountiful catch of Lampuki was evident.

So the first part of the dive was rather disappointing. The deeper, and outer, parts of the bay (to the south) were remarkably devoid of fish life. Of course, evidence of fishing in the form of lost trammel nets, fish traps, and lost fishing lines were everywhere.

The bay is regularly closed off by trammel nets thus ensnaring any marine life that tries

This provided a somewhat surreal sight as the lampuki twisted in the air above our heads and seemed suspended in mid-air like some new species of flying fish.

We proceeded in a north-easterly direction along the southern cliff wall gently reducing our depth until we got to those parts of the cliffs which receive very little sunlight.

Such areas are dominated by masses of the purple calcareous algae Lithopyllum lichenoides. Such algae thrive in the shade since photophilic algae would smother them in more well-lit areas. This is the perfect habitat for nudibranchs and our hunt began in earnest. Despite our best efforts, we could see no nudibranchs at first and my expectations were plummeting until I saw

Graziella examining a curious, flower-like, formation perched at the tip of a piece of alga, swaying in the current. This turned out to be a nudibranch egg mass and of course, wherever eggs are, the adults who laid them could not be too far away.

It was at this point that they started showing up; beautiful specimens of Chromodoris ‘Felimida’ purpurea sinuously foraging between plates of calcareous algae. Our cameras sprang into action as we tried to find the best angle for a pleasing shot without disturbing the subject or other organisms

Dolphin skull and lower mandible Nudibranch egg mass

within the surrounding cliff face. This is no mean task but it is essential, not just from a conservation aspect, but because any debris which may be generated from excessive finning would generate a great deal of suspended particles which would spoil any photos. Correct buoyancy is crucial when you are suspended in mid-water just off a cliff wall. Breathing has to be timed perfectly in order to minimise variations in buoyancy and the disturbances caused by exhaled bubbles.

Other species of nudibranchs were also present. Edward pointed to a couple of orange nudibranchs (Berthella aurantiaca) located on a small ledge just a couple of metres away. I managed to get a few shots of these after much fumbling with my new flashgun. I was trying to avoid backscatter and eventually found out that it was better to eliminate the flash and just work with the aiming light of the flashgun. Oh well, it seems that I need to experiment more with macro shots. I’ll keep you posted.

We managed to explore the two caves at Ghar id-Dwieb but the presence of so many divers cut our caving experience rather short. The first cave is heavily silted and the divers that preceded us had generated clouds of billowing fine silt that ruined any chance of our obtaining decent shots.

Chromodoris ‘Felimida’ purpurea The purple calcareous algae Lithopyllum lichenoides

At least we managed to get a few photos of the remnants of the dolphin skeleton we had seen here on our last dive. The skeleton had been whole back then but all we could find now were the skull, lower mandible, and a few vertebrae. I wonder whether we would still see these on our next dive to this wonderful place.

Safe diving to all. Tano

Chromodoris ‘Felimida’ purpurea

Orange nudibranch (Berthella aurantiaca)

Double Arch This is a fine weather dive. Located about 200m offshore it is at the mercy of most wind directions including the north and south westerlies which blow from the landward side if these start to play in earnest. The day however lived up to its weather forecast, and conditions were as good as they get.

The Atlantis II took a good hour at a leisurely pace to get there from Marfa. Once on site, it is a combination of GPS and cross combination of landmarks to drop the anchor on target – or close to. This time it took the skipper a couple of tail chasing turns before releasing the anchor – there were at least two other times at this site where we dived all right, but hey – no arch(es)! This time however our skipper Joseph was spot on – right on the reef top to the east of the Double Arch.

The dive master’s assistant advised all to take a bearing to the landward side (steer 180 and navigate straight into Gozo) and to avoid surfacing to seaward due to boat traffic, as a precaution against anyone missing the boat on the way back.

Down the anchor chain we went, and the reef U-turn or amphitheatre formation came into view – this meant that the Double Arch was to our right – and sure enough – there it was! This formation never fails to impress – first of all it is massive rocky arch with the lower arch rising above the seabed here at about 36 metres, and the upper riding piggyback at a depth of about 20 metres , the undersides of both arches are covered with multi-coloured sponges and deep orange star corals (Astroides calycularis), these and the fact that you are in front of such an unlikely formation at that depth give the whole thing a feeling of unreality.

- Gozo 22.06.14

Article by Edward Vella —

In might not be immediately obvious, but the reef top over the arch is actually the continuation of the massive upper coralline limestone cliff top that bind Gozo’s northern coast. The cliff top slopes downward, and finally enters the sea close to Reqqa Point, and keeps descending – over the Double Arch it is already some 18 metres beneath the waves.

The more or less straight cliff (now reef) line here describes a ‘fish hook’, and forms as previously mentioned a formation similar to an open-ended amphitheatre. We chose to pass from beneath the lower arch and move at the base of the reef heading west.

This is a sort of underwater headland, which eventually leads back to the arch. At this site, one has to keep an eye on the depth, otherwise it is easy to distract oneself and accumulate a hefty decompression penalty

– as long as it is planned, then of course no problem. Sea life – we came across a moray (Murena helena) and a nice sized slipper lobster (Scyllarus latus), there were also a small shoal of two-banded sea-bream (Diplodus vulgaris) on the landward side of the reef.

Another group visited a small cave lying at about 30 meters depth to the east of the arch. What was the attraction of this cave?

Shrimps! – the wall are crawling with naval shrimps (Parapandalus narval). Must pay a visit next time…

But all good things come to an end, and in this environment, the pressure gauge is master – soon all the divers were hanging beneath the dive boat counting out their decompression times – this always makes a nice shot! Another fantastic Atlam weekend boat-dive!

Photo: Joe Formosa

Photo: Tano Rolé

Photo: Tano Rolé

Reqqa Point A quick look at my dive logs revealed that last year there were at least three boat dives at Reqqa Point, and four the year before.

Dives to the site have therefore been logged many times in previous issues of Bubbles, and therefore anyone who has never dived Reqqa Point would perhaps be justified to get to the conclusion that it is a bit of a delicate matter on how to present this dive log without boring the reader…. It just takes a dive experience at this site to realise how many dive permutations exist here!

This is in fact, a ‘one man band’ site – a lot of different dives all playing together in one place – which I think is the reason behind the popularity of this place. It can be a wall dive, and different walls at that – there is a north facing wall, forever in shade, along which there were hundreds of orange anthias, or it can be a wall dive along the outer middle reef beneath a lone pinnacle.

Out in the blue, one really may expect to see large amberjacks loitering about – waiting for their opportunity. A couple were seen dashing in on the reef towards the clouds of damsel fish.

Photo: Joe Formosa

- Gozo 29.06.14

Article by Edward Vella

This dive can be a cave or even a double cave dive. Along the above north facing wall there is at about 36m, the so-called Shrimps Cave with its internal dome crawling with narval shrimps, and further west along the same wall is the huge Reqqa Cave with its long tunnel and airlock at the innermost end. Its walls as far as light can reach, are covered with multi-coloured sponges, and orange star corals – this cave is really another dive experience on its own.

Technical divers? This site was made for them – for example, remaining on the subject of caves - out on the outer reef wall is the entrance to the vertical bottle-neck cave at about 58 metres, with its exit at about 30 metres, unless of course a reverse direction is planned!

However if exploration of the cave is on the cards, then it makes more sense to exit at 30 metres than at 58. Teccies not keen on caves, have a deep reef to explore where large (really large) groupers are sighted frequently. (This boat dive was not an exception – a large one was seen on the sand beneath the reef.)

All of the above scenarios, were in fact dived during this boat dive by the different diver buddy groups – one thing that is certain is that nobody will say “Not again!” if we had to re-do this dive again next weekend!

Photo: Edward Vella

Photo: Edward Vella

Photo: Joe Formosa