Saturday, April 19, 2014 • Page 1B
Rainbow Lodge from garden to plate By Amber Ambrose amber@amberambrose.com
Donnette Hansen wants her guests to know what “real” arugula tastes like. That’s just one of the reasons she grows it in a small corner of a valet parking lot across from her Oak Forest restaurant, Rainbow Lodge. “Arugula is super peppery,” said Hansen, picking up a small dark green leaf that’s recently sprouted. “The first time I had ‘real’ arugula was in Italy. I couldn’t find what I wanted here, so I decided to grow it myself. It takes a while and the bugs like it, but it makes a real difference in taste.” Hansen’s green thumb and desire for fresh ingredients eventually led to a partial supply of vegetables, herbs and
fruit for the lodge’s kitchen, and was conceived far before the word “locavore” became a household utterance. She planted the first beds nearly twenty years ago at Rainbow Lodge’s original location near Bayou Bend Collection and Gardens and managed to continue the efforts at the restaurant’s newest home at 2011 Ella Blvd. “My goal is to harvest the produce, inform the staff, get it into the kitchen, clean it and have it ready for the tasting menus,” said Hansen. “Every night I want to run out of [whatever’s brought in that day] so I can find something else to harvest.” In addition to that parking lot garden, with beds hosting eggplant, squash, lettuces, fennel, bush beans, arugula, snap
Donnette Hansen has owned Rainbow Lodge for more than 20 years. (Photo by Amber Ambrose)
peas and more, the second garden is located right next to the lodge itself. Hansen explained that the two gardens are the focus of a friendly competition between herself and one of her longtime kitchen employees. “Pascual is our farmer. He’s a cook who’s been with us for 23 years,” said Hansen. “The garden close to the restaurant is his baby, and the one in the lot across the street is mine. Right now there’s fennel (we use the tops) and he’s just put his tomatoes in, plus there are bay leaves, onions, a keffir lime tree (those are used for the leaves), kumquats and more. It all changes out with the seasons. We like to see whose garden produces more.” While the competition heats up along with the weather, the citrus grove located in the scenic back wooded area of the restaurant cools down. When Hansen moved Rainbow Lodge to its current location eight years ago, the first thing she did was plant lemon, lime and pomelo trees along a slope of land next to one of the dining rooms. As of spring, the blossoms are just starting to drop, but the fruit won’t be ready to pick for at least another eight months. “We use the lemons and limes in dishes. There’s always one month - around December or January - when we have hundreds of them and we use them in everything,” said Hansen. “The pastry department will use a lot of the juice and we preserve many of the thinskinned lemons. We don’t use any of it at the bar, because we try to keep it special for the tasting menu and the feature
Rainbow Lodge grows many of its ingredients in gardens at the restaurant location at 2011 Ella Blvd. (Photo by Amber Ambrose)
dishes.” This approach allows Hansen to use the onsite produce as an added benefit during the prime gardening seasons, and a way to continue her love of growing things. She admits that there are times in the restaurant where none of the produce is supplied from any of their three onsite locales. “Spring and fall are my favorite seasons for the garden, but come August, forget it.” After all, even Hansen knows not to test the limits imposed by a sweltering Houston summer.
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Entree of the Month
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Doyle’s Spaghetti Chicken By Betsy Denson betsy@theleadernews.com
For this month’s entrée of the month under $20, The Leader looks no further than an Oak Forest neighborhood institution, Doyle’s. Reader Karen Coker nominated Doyle’s Spaghetti Chicken which is a deal at $10.50. Peter Doyle, who is the son and nephew of the original owners, said he didn’t know exactly how long the Spaghetti Chicken has been on the menu but thinks it’s been around at least 15 to 20 years. He said they start with high quality chicken breasts which they marinate and bake in the oven. The chicken is then used for their spaghetti and their sandwiches. The Spaghetti Chicken is topped with an Alfredo sauce and comes with garlic bread. “If you think the cream sauce will be too rich for you, get the half order and the dinner salad instead,” said Coker. “Perfect combo.” In its current location since 1956, Doyle’s also spent two years in the strip mall at Ella and 43rd. The restaurant started as a deli but diversified over time to offer other options, many of which are Italian. With a name like Doyle, you might
• Choice o f • Fresh Ve Entree getables • Salad • R oll
5
$ 50
Hearty Breakfast Specials From 6 AM Daily Chef, Shrimp, Chicken, & Greek Salads All You Can Eat Catfish Let Us Cater Your Event
2400 N. Shepherd 713-862-5958 Credit Cards Welcome
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Spaghetti Chicken is one of Doyle’s long time classics and favored among patrons (Photo by Jake Dukate)
expect Irish fare, but Peter Doyle said the family owned restaurant was the first in the area to offer pizza. Doyle’s will celebrate its 60th anniversary on May 1 and Peter Doyle credits the
Open Mon-Sat 6 am-4 pm • Breakfast 6 am-11 am
success and longevity of the restaurant to their 25 employees, many of whom like manager Miguel Tamayo, have been there for many years. Here’s to 60 more.
Limited Time Only So Come Get One
Nibbles: Piatto Ristorante opens on Studewood By Amber Ambrose amber@amberambrose.com
The Heights branch of John M. Carrabba’s Piatto Ristorante is now open. The family-owned and run restaurant is open at 11 a.m. for lunch and dinner inside the retail portion of the mixed-use development at 1111 Studewood Place. The original location, where their famous fried asparagus appetizer and traditional Italian fare gained a loyal following, is in The Galleria area. For reservations, including for Easter
And Up
Sunday, call 713-802-2000. Juice Girl Goes Brick and Mortar Popular mobile vendor, Juice Girl, has opened a brick and mortar shop in the Heights at 238 W. 19th St. The shop serves up freshly pressed organic fruit and vegetable juices, smoothies and more starting at 8:30 a.m. on weekdays. Julep Gets Closer to an Opening Date Julep, a bar from the team behind Anvil Bar & Refuge, Underbelly, The Pastry War and
others, is nearing completion. CultureMap reports the 1919 Washington Ave. establishment is only about four to six weeks away from pouring libations. Adding to the intrigue is their announcement that Chef Adam Garcia, formerly of The Pass & Provisions and the Heights Revival Market, will be manning the kitchen and creating a menu of cold seafood dishes. Heights Candy Bar Heights Candy Bar recently threw wide their doors at 833
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Studewood just in time for Easter. The boutique candy shop carries a range of confections and also offers onsite services for special events like candy buffets. Federal Grill A new season means a new fixed-price menu at Federal Grill (510 Shepherd Dr.). The threecourse deal is $38 a person and is available starting at 5 p.m. through this month. The courses include options for appetizers, main courses and dessert.
Open Mon-Thurs 6am-10pm Fri & Sat 6am-11pm
13240 Northwest Frwy 713-462-7698
GREENWOOD KING Reaching #1 in the Heights in 2013 713.864.0888 G
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