A special Food & Drink report by THE LEADER. sponsored by Cottonwood and Liberty Station Bar.
Cottonwood, Liberty Station Bar hones Houston craft beer market By Betsy Denson betsy@theleadernews.com
There was a time when Jake Rainey, chief operating officer of the group that owns Cottonwood, Liberty Station and La Grange, would do everything in his power to be the first one to try a new craft beer out in the Houston market. These days he waits a little while. “I’ll definitely get around to it,” he said. “And if it’s excellent I’ll hear about it.” Part of the reason for that is the sheer volume of beers coming out of Houston now. In 2003, when Rainey started as the general manager of the Flying Saucer in Houston, he said that there were only a few IPAs around. In 2016, though, due to consumer education and exposure to craft beer, the number is much higher. “Everybody’s got craft beer now,” Rainey said. “People are getting the experience at Karbach and Saint Arnold. They get to tour the breweries and sample the variety. It’s an immersive thing. Breweries have really educated customers. There are a lot more beer geeks now.” And Rainey can talk their language. In the beer business since 1997, he worked his way up from waiting tables at the Cricket’s Grill & Draft House in Waco to become the general manager. At Flying Saucer, Rainey was the regional general manager over the downtown and Sugar Land locations and their national beer director before he left. It was the training program there and the passion of Flying Saucer partner Keith Schlabs that rounded out Rainey’s educa-
tion. That and enjoying quite a few beers over the years too. A little over two years ago, he got the opportunity to partner with the Raven Grill’s Sara and Rob Cromie and developer Harres Exezidis on their latest venture. At Cottonwood, there might be 30 to 40 beers on tap, compared to Cover photos by Gisele Parra Photography 80 to 90 at Flying Saucer. At Liberty Station, 12 beers are on tap with an ad- Chief operating officer of Cottonwood, Liberty Station Bar and La Grange, Jake Rainey, raising a pint at Liberty Station Bar. ditional focus on bottles and cans. “I think it’s pretty important to have more complex,” said Rainey. And the limited release category a wide variety of beer, not one specific style,” said Rainey. “But contains their rare beers. you also want to keep beer moving, and fresh.” Rainey makes the point that just because it’s craft beer, it’s not Rainey says that at Liberty Station, what’s being offered necessarily good. changes all the time, letting connoisseurs sample what’s newest “There are a lot of great beers, but if people try one that’s not and best, while at Cottonwood, there’s a rotation of newbies and their first time out, it might turn them off,” he said. “It’s most the tried and true. important to have good product.” “Saint Arnold’s Art Car IPA is always on tap at Cottonwood,” Rainey loves the beers at Brash Brewing and Saint Arnold. he said. “I really like its hop profile.” He’s also had some of the beers at the new Eureka Heights Brew Also at Cottonwood, they arrange the offerings under different Co – where Art Car IPA creator Casey Motes has landed – and categories. The Gateway category is their way of getting people says they are excellent. Rainey is excited about Platypus Brewout of their comfort zone a little bit. ing, too. “We’ll say, ‘If you like Bud Light, try Fireman’s #4’,” explains “It’s great to have a brewery right across the street [from LibRainey. erty Station]” he said. Under the Hophead section, you’ll find your IPAs and pale ales. On the Darkside features all dark beers. Mo Body is a step See Cottonwood P. 2B up from Gateway with vienna-styles and saison beers – “a little