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Fresh Burger Jangsan
051-989-4311
www.freshburger.co.kr
Gonyong #2 Apartments
Angel In Us
Cafe OPEN MON-SAT 11AM-11PM OPEN SUNDAY 11AM-10PM Devravita Officetel
Thursday Party
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CONTENTS FEATURES
The Empowerment of the Pill | 20 Flair Man of the Board | 20 Korean Wave | 24 Busan’s Beaches | 28
Photography by: Mike Dixon On the cover: Kim Byung Sung and Choi Kyung-wook On this page: Hwang Sang-won and Choi Kyung-wook
REGULARS
Events: The Big Five | 11 The Haps: Word on the Street | 12 News: In the News | 14 Beachly Possessions | 16 H&M Comes to Busan | 14 Tharp On: Health Care | 48
SPORT
Game On! | 30 Making a run for it in Busan | 31
TRAVEL
International: Biking in Vientiane | 32 Korea: Up in the Valley | 34
COMMUNITY
Salim Women’s Shelter | 36 Expat Extracts | 37
FOOD
The Dish: Grillin’ & Chillin’ | 38 A Taste of France | 39
MUSIC
Dammit, Janet | 40 Simply Genius | 41
DIRECTORY/GUIDES Hotel News & Directory | 42 Nightlife & Dining Directory | 44 Services Directory | 46 Area Maps | 48 Busan Metro Map | 50 8
HAPS_summer 2012
EDITOR’S LETTER Several years ago, when I was living in San Francisco, a magazine called and asked if I knew a lot about golf and if I would fly to New Orleans to interview several pro golfers and put together a feature for an upcoming issue. Without hesitation I replied, “Sure, I know a lot about golf,” (blatant lie) and “I’d be happy to do it” (true to the bone). Other than a brief oral altercation with Jack Nicklaus on the driving range, the whole thing went off without a hitch and the piece was well-received. In this special Beach Issue of Haps, along with a lot of great stuff from our writers, I have two pieces revolving around surfing. I think I have touched a surfboard once in my life, then wondering to myself, What is this dirty, waxy stuff on here for? That said, after spending a little time talking with surfers, you can’t help but want to be one. The sand, the shore, the attitude and that dirty, waxy stuff. It’s all good. Have a great summer and see you on the beach.
2012 summer_ busanhaps.com
9
H Regulars
CONTRIBUTORS FRANCES HERRINGTON
Originally from Wellington, New Zealand, “Frankie” first began writing about the environment and has since diversified into animal welfare and yummy vegetarian food. She endeavors to share her passion and respect for nature.
JAMES TURNBULL
Since coming to Korea in 2000, James has become widely known for his highly respected blog The Grand Narrative. He lives in Busan with his wife and two daughters, Alice and Elizabeth.
CHRIS THARP
Chris hails from Washington State and has lived in Busan for over six years. When not when banging on a guitar or screaming into a microphone, he likes to write. If you buy him a drink he’ll tell you all about the times he met Kurt Cobain, but you probably already know the story.
BIANCA DAVIS
Bianca is a Texan who came to Busan in September 2011 on a whim because, as she says, “Well, why not?” She loves staying active, cooking and getting to know Busan more and more every day.
EUGENE SMITH
Haps’ music editor Eugene Smith was born in Costa Rica to Korean and British parents. Along with writing about the Busan music scene, he is the singer, songwriter and guitarist for the Busan rock band Millstone Grit.
CHRISTY SWAIN
A fashion-loving girl, this Kiwi would like to divide her time between Paris and Milan, but for now she’ll settle for Busan, browsing the vintage stores of Seomyeon or the High St. of Nampo-dong.
JEN SOTHAM
Jen Sotham hails from New York and has been living in Busan since 2006. Her writing has appeared in magazines, guidebooks and anthologies, including Travelers’ Tales: Best Women’s Travel Writing 2008.
PUBLISHER Ju Shin-hye EDITOR IN CHIEF Bobby McGill MARKETING DIRECTOR Michael Schneider ART DIRECTOR Russell McConnell FASHION EDITOR Christy Swain FOOD EDITOR Jen Sotham WRITERS: Jen Sotham Michael Fraiman Frankie Herrington Chris Tharp James Turnbull Bobby McGill Jeff Liebsch Christy Swain Eugene Smith Erin Campeau Kendall Maize Bianca Davis Gregory C.F. Dolezal INTERN Shin Kyung-bin
DESIGNERS: Kelvin Brassbridge II PHOTOGRAPHERS: Mike Dixon Yun-mi Jung BMC Jen Sotham Michael Fraiman ILLUSTRATORS: Sarah Elminshawi www.sarahelminshawi.com ACCOUNTS SERVICES Marie Sung MARKETING ASSISTANT Cho Jeong-been
Follow us @busanhaps Busan Haps Magazine BUSAN HAPS Summer 2012 Issue 20
SUBMISSIONS busanhaps@gmail.com
BUSINESS REGISTRATION NUMBER: 00001
ADVERTISING busanhaps@gmail.com
FIRST PUBLICATION DATE: Sept, 2, 2009 OFFICE ADDRESS: Ocean Tower #1726, 760-3, Woo 1 Dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan, Republic of Korea 612-822 www.busanhaps.com
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MANAGING EDITOR Jeff Liebsch COPY EDITOR Michael Fraiman WEBMASTER Danny Himes
DISCLAIMER: The opinions in the magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher. Questions or comments: busanhaps@gmail.com ©2012 Busan Haps Magazine
THE
Events & Culture
BIG
FIVE MAROON 5 RETURNS
SEPTEMBER 14 It’s not often that big international acts come to Busan, but three-time Grammy Award-winners Maroon 5 will stop into Busan for a second time this year on September 14 as part of the Hyundai Card Super Concert series. Featuring songs from their fourth studio album, Overexposed, and past hits, the Los Angeles-based band will also play in Seoul on the 15th at Jamsil Sports Complex. Tickets cost 66,000 - 132,000 won at www.ticket.interpark.com/global
AD STARS 2012
AUGUST 23 - 25 First opened in 2008, Ad Stars has become one of the biggest advertising festivals in Asia. This year, over 10,000 entries from 57 countries will be judged and the public can view the finalists free of charge at BEXCO in Haeundae. Jonathan Mildenhall, vice president of CocaCola, and Akira Kagami, creative director of Dentsu, will share their ideas on brand and communication among the many seminars offered at the three day convention. For more information, visit www.busanadstars.org
BUSAN MARU INT. MUSIC FESTIVAL
SEPTEMBER 9 - 15 The 3rd Busan Maru International Music Festival has quickly established itself as a must-attend event since its inception in 2010. Maru, which means “best” in Korean, reflects the goals of the organizers who strive to bring the best in classical music to the city, including this year’s main concert by the Prague Chamber Orchestra which takes place at the Busan Cultural Center. You can get more info on tickets and concert times at bmimf.co.kr
FREE MOVIES AT 10TH ASIAN DRAGON BOAT CHAMPIONSHIPS THE BCC SEPTEMBER 7 - 9 Hosted by the Asian Dragon Boat Federation, Suyeong River and Apec Naru Park in Haeundae play host to the 10th edition of the Asian Dragon Boat Championships. For those of you who have never experienced it, dragon boats offer a unique twist on classing rowing sculls, with an effigy of a dragon on the prow and a drummer sitting in the stern to keep time for the five to 22 rowers. You can check out more on the event at bdba.or.kr
THROUGH SEPTEMBER 11 Each Tuesday evening until September 11, a free movie night is taking place at the outdoor cinema at the Busan Cinema Center. Classics such as The Wizard of Oz, Singin’ in the Rain and Breakfast at Tiffany’s, as well as foreign hits from France and Japan, will be screened at the ultra-modern facility in Centum City. For more information about the schedule, you can check out their website at www.dureraum.org 11 2012 summer_ busanhaps.com 11
H Regulars
WORD ON THE STREET TREE OF LIFE EXHIBITION IN HAEUNDAE
Swedish-Ecuadorian artist Gaby Berglund Cardenas will have her second solo exhibition in Busan from August 23 to 31, after a flourishing career in and out of Korea. “Tree of Life” was born after a trip to Vietnam and Cambodia. This new series highlights her concern for “the destruction of trees and cultural genocide that still affects us today.” Without limiting herself to any particular medium, Cardenas expresses her visual poetry through printmaking, painting and drawing in this mixed-media series of large scale collages. “I want to bring awareness over issues that concern us all,” she told Haps. “I explore universal themes such as motherhood, love, the search for identity and, above all, human relations, materialism, communication and the suffering they inevitably involve.” You can enjoy Cardenas’s work and more at the New Gallery Idm– Space in Haeundae from August 23-31. Call 051-743 0059 or visit them online at www.galleryidm.com
PARK HYATT TO HIT HAEUNDAE
The hotel scene in Haeundae is going to get a major boost with the newly-announced Park Hyatt hotel opening in early 2013. Park Hyatt Busan will be part of an iconic mixed-use development project, comprised of three residential towers, one office tower and retail space, all located on a prominent 10-acre site adjacent to Haeundae Beach. The hotel, slated for Marine City, will alleviate the lack of luxury rooms in the city, which has been a concern for tourism officials looking to reel in more major events and conventions.
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UBIQUITOUS WIFI PART OF BUSAN’S “SMART CITY” GOAL
Starting last month, residents and visitors to Busan can now enjoy free wireless internet on public transport around the city. The city government installed a free WiBro wireless internet network on 2,473 local buses and at 80 bus stops after reaching agreements with three main mobile giants SK Telecom, KT and LG U+ to provide a city-wide mobile wireless internet infrastructure. According to a city official, “We plan to build a high-tech Smart City, where wireless internet access is available throughout the city, not only for Busan citizens, but also for domestic and international tourists visiting Busan.”
Community & Living
BIFF IS JUST AROUND THE CORNER
The Busan International Film Festival is shaping to be bigger and better than ever this year, as the annual film festival, Korea’s first, will take over the city for its 17th edition from October 4 to 13. Last year, over 307 films from 70 countries were screened to 196,177 guests during the nine-day run. The architectural marvel known as the Busan Cinema Center will host the festival for a second year, after the festival moved from the Suyeong Yacht Club last year. Asia’s largest cinema event has steadily built its reputation over the years, and is now an essential stop on the international festival calendar.
CU LATER FAMILY MART
Japanese convenience store chain Family Mart will be rebranded under the new name CU starting in August. Local firm BGF Retail, which is partnered with the Japanese franchise, will switch over all of its 7,200 nationwide stores between August and October. “The name CU, an abbreviation of ‘Convenience for You’, represents the transformation into an independent convenience store rather than just an imitation of Japanese models,” said BGF Retail Chairman Hong Seok-jo. Family Mart made its move to Korea in 1992, and has operations in Thailand, Taiwan, China, the United States, Bangladesh, Vietnam and even two stores in North Korea. 2012 summer_ busanhaps.com 13
H Regulars
IN THE NEWS
WHALERS WHALING AGAIN; WHALING WAILERS WAIL
South Korea controversially announced early July that it would basically scrap their 26-year-old moratorium on whale hunting this year. They say it’s ‘for science’, but part of the government’s justification is that whale meat has long been traditional Korean cuisine—especially in cities like Ulsan, whose populace celebrated the decision only days later. The country’s 1986 ban drove hundreds of fishermen out of work, but the ethical downside, poorly guised by science—researching whales, for example, doesn’t necessarily include hunting and killing them—isn’t fooling critics local or international, who can cite documents proving that the endangered species’ population has increased in the last two decades. But as Haps’ intrepid editor-in-chief pointed out in an online editorial on the subject in mid-July, the move isn’t likely to stick because Koreans are sensitive to their international image: “The global public outcry and the protests of its own people will likely leave things as business as usual.”
TWO WHISKY SHOTS AND A PINT OF KIMCHI, PLEASE
Maybe weirder than the concept of “kimchi beer” is the fact that two separate brewhouses decided to invent it simultaneously. Two breweries in different countries—Beau’s All Natural Brewing Company, a tiny microbrewery in Vankleet Hill, Ontario, and Barry’s Homebrew Outlet in Philadelphia—tried integrating kimchi into a spicy new beer, working over the experiment for a few weeks in June. In a funny way the combination makes sense, since both kimchi and beer are fermented products, and inventive microbreweries using ingredients like chili or jalapeno peppers isn’t unusual. Probably best to not order the stuff by the pitcher, though.
TAKE ME BACK TO THE PARADISE CITY (OF PYONGYANG?)
IF NOT FRIENDS, THEN ALLIES?
One of the biggest presidential election issues this December will undoubtedly be this argument over whether or not to strike a military pact with Japan. The talks started in late June over whether South Korea ought to move past its precarious past with the eastern neighbor (which, to be clear, would mostly consist of sharing key information regarding North Korea and China—a totally sound and logical agreement), yet even the talk of it remains unthinkable to a mighty percentage of (mostly older) Koreans. Before any such deal is brokered, there are two big demands these protesters are after. To quote an editorial in the Korea Times from early July: “Seoul should not push for it unless and until Tokyo truly repents historical wrongs and withdraws its claims over Dokdo.” Basically, Japan, apologize for forcing Korean women into prostitution from 1910-45, and stop pretending Dokdo is yours. Such arguments tread a thin line between maintaining dignity and letting it get in the way of progress, and though President Lee hasn’t made a call yet, the government has emphasized that the deal (as of the time of writing this in mid-July) is not off the table. 14 HAPS_summer 2012
In an extremely rare example of someone preferring North Korean lifestyle to its southern counterpoint, a 66-year-old woman—who’d been living in Seoul for six years after defecting from North Korea— decided this past summer to head back home. “I am an ingrate who had betrayed my motherland to seek better living,” she told reporters in Pyongyang, “while others devoted themselves to building a thriving nation, tightening their belts.” Her return stirred up a media frenzy by North Korean propagandists, who arranged for her ceremonial return and press conference wherein she spoke widely of how awful her experiences in the south were—which, to be fair, is a common emotion among North-to-South defectors, who are often subject to mental anxieties, social discrimination and an unemployment rate nearly four times South Korea’s average. Still, one can’t help but wonder how much of her move was pure brainwashed crazy-talk.
Korean & World News
2012 summer_ busanhaps.com 15
H Regulars
BEACHLY POSSESSIONS
SOME COOL SHADES
A cool pair of shades serves a wide range of purposes. There is the obvious function of keeping the sun out of your eyes so you’re not incessantly walking around squinting at everything. They also give you those cool raccoon tan lines that are no doubt all the rave somewhere in the world. Additionally, shades allow you to covertly check out attractive strangers unbeknownst to either the object of your stare or your partner. Then, of course, there is the ‘cool’ factor that has been embedded into the cultural DNA of nearly every society on the planet. Korea is famed for cheap options on quality frames and lenses due to the bulk sold here. Take advantage, grab yourself something fly and hit the beach.
A METAL DETECTOR
A PICNIC BASKET
Sure, you could simply toss all your beachfront picnic goodies into a backpack or a shopping bag from wherever you stocked up for the day, but where is the romance? Where is the allure? And where is that brief moment of excitement at the potential of opening the wooded flap in search of a snack and Toto hopping out into your lap? If that alone is not enough to convince you, there is the advantage of keeping your food intact; your sandwiches still look like sandwiches, your chips remain in a dippable state and your picnic partner thinks you’re the absolute way-coolest person on the planet, thus keeping your relationship intact as well. GMarket.com offers a ton of options ranging from 10,000 won to the one pictured for 250,000. Red-and-white checkered blanket not included, but why do things half-assed? Pick one up while you’re at it. 16 HAPS_summer 2012
In the animal kingdom, the varied class of animals labelled “scavengers” get an undeserved bad rap. What is so wrong with benefitting from the hard work of others? What’s wrong with profiting from another’s loss? (Well, putting it that way, a lot, actually. But what the heck?) After a packed day on the beach there’s a ton of great metallic stuff to be found, and you might as well be the one to find it. From coins to jewelry to classic bottle caps and pull tabs, a veritable treasure trove of stuff is floating around just few inches beneath the sand. During the height of the summer on Haeundae Beach, nearly a million people are out in force daily, losing money, wedding rings and the occasional smartphone. Granted, a good metal detector is going to run you about 300,000 won, but you just might get lucky and find an iPad on your first morning out and pay the whole thing off. Search “metal detector” on Naver.com for retail and online buying options.
AJUMMA SUN VISOR
The sun can be a brutal adversary to your youthful looks—if you still have youthful looks. To preserve your skin you can spend a fortune on creams, lotions, sunblocks and plastic surgery—or, you can cover yourself with an oversized visor and stop the destruction before it starts. A great option while you are in Korea (because you probably wouldn’t be caught dead wearing something like this back home) is the Ajumma Visor. (That is, of course, not the true product name, but the term is so ubiquitous here in Rome, that we are sticking with the Romans on nomenclature.) Ajumma Visors are cheap, available everywhere and, after a few-year stint in Korea, you can return home assured that your friends and family will say, “You hardly changed at all!” As for the advanced aging etched on your face from rampant drinking and smoking in Korea, there is yet no cure for that except wearing your Ajumma Visor back home to obscure your face from friends and family. Ahhh, life’s little ironies.
Material World
A BEACH CHAIR
Lightweight, portable and soiled only by your own sweat and filth (rather than by hundreds of others), a nylon beach chair is a great option for those who prefer not to lay in the slime of their fellow man or those looking to save money on beach rental fees during the price-gouging peak season. There’s a wide variety of styles and colors to choose from, with cup holders, built-in shade and even some with holes cut in for you to put your arms and face through, so you can lay on your stomach and read a book or enjoy the meditative chore of burying ants in the sand and watching them dig themselves out over and over again. All the major superstores have these guys, or you can order a beach chair online from GMarket.com and have it shipped right to your door.
SAND-OFF! DRY BODY WASH
If Charlie Brown’s friend Pig Pen had carried one of these powder-filled miracle mitts around with him, he might very well have scored with Peppermint Patty or even Charlie Brown if he so desired. The creators of Sand-Off! say the all-natural mitt can clean off sand, dust and dirt by breaking down the bond between skin and the yucky stuff. “We developed this product because we love the beach, but hate the sand leaving with us at the end of the day,” said Jason McGowin, the president of SandOff! in a Fox News interview. Fox News then claimed that the socialist utopian Obamacare will cover Sand Off! at taxpayers’ expense. The single pack of Sand-Off! Dry Body Wash, which is good for 4050 uses, is US$7.99 and available on www.sandoff.com.
UV SUNSENSE BRACELET
During the summer in Spain, northern Europeans descend on the beaches where the locals refer to them as the “Shrimp People”. Had they strapped this handy UV Sunsense bracelet around their wrist or ankle, they would have known their sunscreen was actually not good for the “eight hours” promised. The disposable bracelet is simple: put it on, rub sunscreen on both yourself and the UV Sunsense bracelet. The bracelet turns a bright purple when activated. As the sunscreen loses its ability to block the sun, the bracelet color fades to a light pink, which indicates you should apply more sunscreen before you turn into a bright red. The UV Sunsense bracelet is calibrated to work with sunscreens SPF 15 and higher and is highly sensitive to both UVA and UVB rays. A pack of seven will cost you about six bucks, and there are various online retailers, including Amazon. www.uvsunsense.com
2012 summer_ busanhaps.com 17
H Regulars
STYLE N’ BEAUTY
H&M COMES TO BUSAN BY CHRISTY SWAIN
HAPS FASHION EDITOR CHRISTY SWAIN ATTENDS THE GALA OPENING OF H&M IN BUSAN AND TALKS WITH COUNTRY MANAGER FOR KOREA, HANS ANDERSSON. To the delight of Korean and expat fashionistas alike, Swedish multinational clothing company Hennes & Mauritz, better known as H&M, has finally arrived in Busan. Now, local shoppers no longer have to trek north to Seoul to visit one of the world’s favorite fashion retail stores. The two-level store, located on the third and fourth floors of the Shinsegae department store, features women’s, men’s and children’s wear with products ranging from basic everyday items to suits and cocktail dresses. The recent pre-opening party was akin to a film premiere or night club opening with spectators lining the red carpets, receiving goodie bags on arrival and stopping waiters circulating with trays of Moet. Adding to the glam atmosphere was an exclusive performance by K-pop superstars f(x) in the department store’s atrium, and in-store DJs keeping lucky attendees entertained. Since its first store opened in Myeongdong, Seoul in 2010, Korean shoppers have welcomed H&M into their hearts and wardrobes with open arms. H&M country manager for Korea, Hans Andersson, has been with the company for 22 years, and three in Korea since the companies launch. The Swed18 HAPS_summer 2012
ish native spoke enthusiastically with Haps about the success the company has experienced breaking into the Korean market. “We had a fantastic start, with as much as 1700 people lining up for the first store from the very first day and it seems that the concept of fashion quality and the best price is a winner in Korea.” At the heart of this success may be the enthusiasm of Korean shoppers adds Andersson. “The Korean customers are very fashion-minded and critical (of products) in a constructive way”. Andersson acknowledges it did take longer than expected to establish their first location in Busan, with the opening being postponed over a year due the search for the perfect location. He describes H&M as a “careful” company and once they were happy with their stores in Seoul, they set about finding the perfect location in Busan. Comparisons are inevitably made with their Spanish rivals ZARA, who have taken a much different retail approach in Korea, opening 32 stores since 2009. However, H&M’s cautious approach hasn’t done any harm to the retailer’s appeal in Korea. In fact, it seems to have created a more exclusive image for the company which specialises in the latest fashion at a lower price. Plans are already set for a second store to open in
Style & Beauty
left: K-pop group f(x). below clockwise: Hans Andersson, ribbon cutting ceremony and scene from the new store. Seomyeon in late October. H&M has established itself with various demographics around the world. When asked how Korean consumers compare to those in other nations, Andersson was full of praise. “There are definitely many more trendsetters and (they are) far more fashion-minded than Europeans and Americans, I must say.” Male and female shoppers alike will be pleased with the wide range available at the Centum City store, which includes not only casual and evening wear, but also bags, jewellery and footwear. With a sluggish economy and an already crowded fashion world, the fight for fashion dollars is getting tougher in Korea. H&M thrives on this competition, and Andersson feels it pushes the company to perform. “It keeps us awake, and keeps us away from, hopefully, being fat cats. You can be proud and of course celebrate successes, but you can also be in danger. You should always strive to improve and do something better all the time.”
Visit H&M Korea on the web at www.hm.com/kr
2012 summer_ busanhaps.com 19
HSocial
ISSUE
THE EMPOWERMENT OF
THE PILL BY
JAMES TURNBULL
LOOKING AT THE KFDA’S RECENT DECISION TO RECLASSIFY BIRTH CONTROL AS A SPECIALTY MEDICATION, IT’S AIM TO LESSEN THE STIGMA OF THE DRUG AND THE REAL MOTIVATION BEHIND THE MOVE.
“W
here is your boyfriend from? What’s his job? Are you going to marry him?” Such questions are difficult to avoid answering in any situation without sounding rude, and my young Korean then-girlfriend really felt put on the spot by this, her very first visit to a gynecologist. Understandably, she wouldn’t visit another until forced to by her first pregnancy. Two babies later, though, my now-wife and I have nothing but praise for all the Korean gynecologists and obstetricians (OBGYNs) we’ve dealt with. Combined with pharmacists no longer lecturing young (read: unmarried) women purchasing the pill from them (although unlike religious pharmacists in the US, they at least still sold them), our own experiences attest that people’s attitudes and professionalism have really improved since my wife’s ill-fated visit 12 years ago. And perhaps, in general, they have. But as numerous netizens have made clear this summer, there are still too many intrusive, insensitive, pushy and just plain creepy gynecologists 20 HAPS_summer 2012
out there. Patients’ complaints about them include everything from receiving compliments for how pretty their vaginas look and how their husbands weren’t as “reckless” with them as most other men would have been, to being loudly informed of their STD test results in crowded waiting rooms. All extreme cases, certainly, but more than enough to dissuade many women from visiting. This is crucial for understanding the real-life implications of the Korea Food and Drug Administration’s (KFDA) June 7 announcement of the possible reclassification of the birth-control pill from “ordinary” into “specialty” medication, meaning that it would require a prescription. In isolation, the requirement sounds quite reasonable, as OBGYNs would be able to ensure that women a) receive the most appropriate pill for them, b) are fully advised of possible side-effects, c) are made aware of other contraception options, and d) are encouraged to also receive any other needed check-ups during their visits, including pap-smear tests. Whereas in practice, many women are already hoarding pills in reaction to the news, with students
and those on low incomes particularly worried about how they will be able to afford monthly consultations. Moreover, it is very questionable whether women’s health is really the main motivation here. First, the pill has already been available over-the-counter in Korea for more than five decades, with the third generation, low-dosage versions available today being the safest and most effective contraception available in, well, all of human history. No sudden compelling evidence has emerged to probe them now dangerous. Second, directions on how to use them, and warnings about possible side-effects, are readily available on the boxes they come in, not to mention on the Internet. Why women are especially in need of doctors’ guidance on taking these— but not, say, the far more dangerous amphetamines used in cold medicines—is not explained. And again, there’s no evidence that women are widely “misusing” them, unless taking advantage of them to clear up acne or schedule their periods around vacations and exams is construed as such. Finally, it is difficult to reconcile purported concerns about women’s health with the fact that the KFDA would actually be making the morning-after pill available over-the-counter at the same time. Yes, really. And it is common knowledge that there is no medical reason for this strange state of affairs, but rather that it is the result of the KFDA’s compromise between the demands of the Korean Medical Association (KMA) and the Korean Pharmaceutical Association (KPA), which want to have both pills made available only by prescription or over-the-counter respectively. That is not to say that all OBGYNs and pharmacists are only motivated by money, of course, nor that all complaints about
them are valid. Some naive patients report feeling perplexed and ashamed at merely being asked if they were sexually active, for instance, which may be why OBGYNs will usually ask the archaic “Are you married?” instead, and raises the possibility that patients themselves can be responsible for stigmatizing women that have sex before marriage. However, it is also true that falling birth rates meant that OBGYNs were already leaving the profession in droves well before the Lee Myung-bak administration (re)criminalized abortion, further depriving them of a source of income, and that the KMA has a long history of scaremongering about easy access to the pill Consider the following alarmist statement from a July 2009 Korea Times article, for instance, in which thenpresident Choo Soo-ho claims that the pill can “result in nausea, weight gain, menstruation pattern changes and depression. Other possible side effects include pimples, stroke, hypertension, cervical cancer, kidney disorder, thyroid disorder and a tumor in the ovary.” Perhaps it’s no surprise, then, that ironically only two-and-a-half percent of Korean women actually use the pill, against 20-to-40 percent in most other developed countries. Nevertheless, its current over-the-counter access still represents a genuine—and all-too-rare—source of sexual empowerment for Korean women. Here’s hoping the KFDA won’t take that away when it makes its final decision at the end of July.
IT’S NO SURPRISE, THEN, THAT IRONICALLY ONLY TWO-AND-A-HALF PERCENT OF KOREAN WOMEN ACTUALLY USE THE PILL, AGAINST 20-TO-40 PERCENT IN MOST OTHER DEVELOPED COUNTRIES.
James Turnbull’s popular blog, The Grand Narrative, discusses Korean sociology through gender, advertising, and popular culture, and has become one of the leading Internet sources on those topics, with mentions in Time Magazine, The Washington post and Jezebel. 2012 summer_ busanhaps.com 21
HInside
STORY
FLAIR MAN
OF THE BOARD BY
BOBBY McGILL
SOME WOULD SAY THE SURFBOARD IS ALREADY A WORK OF ART. TWENTYTWO-YEAR OLD WORLD CLASS SURFER, CHRISTIAN WACH, SEES IT NOT ONLY AS A WORK OF ART, BUT ALSO AS A CANVAS FOR HIS BRUSH.
22 HAPS_summer 2012
I JUST ALWAYS HAD A VISION FOR MY BOARD AND WANTED IT TO STAND APART FROM OTHERS WHILE KNOWING I MADE IT LOOK THAT WAY.
B
orn in San Clemente, California in 1989, renowned surfer Christian Wach (pronounced “Wa”) first climbed on a surfboard at six-years-old. Not that it was much of a board, as he recalls. “It was an old Capo Bay with the corkiest airbrush to match, duct taped rails and a semi-busted side fin.” Board quality aside, from there on out he was hooked and has since put together an impressive resume for a guy who is still only twenty-two. Wach’s surfing accolades include taking first at the respected Noosa Noseriding Festival from 20072009, being voted #1 longboarder by Surfer Magazine's Hot 100, and he’s been on the cover of several top surfing magazines worldwide. Then there is his artistic side. Along with writing songs and making short films, Wach has had a love of painting since childhood. “I have enjoyed drawing since I was very young,” Wach said in a 2010 interview with the surfer site, Liquid Salt. “My uncle Kenton is a successful oil painter and my great uncle was a famous Mexican muralist.” It was this fusion of a love for painting and surfing that inspired Wach to launch his own company, Canvas Surfboards in 2009. Joining up with longtime friend (and former babysitter) Ryan Engle, the pair set out to start an underground, artist-based label specializing in custom made surfboards. And business is booming. One of the pair’s creations can be seen being ridden by actress Blake Lively of Gossip Girls’ fame, in Oliver Stone’s latest movie, Savages. Canvas Surfboards recently announced a distribution deal with Busan’s Gwangan-li surfshop, Kai Surf, so now you can pick up one of Wach’s unique creations right here in Korea. Haps had a chance to talk with the California native recently about both the art of riding and making surfboards, his dream surf companion and what advice he has for Korea’s fledgling surf culture. 1. ASK THE AVERAGE GUY ON THE STREET AND HE WILL SAY SURFING IS A “SPORT.” ASK A SURFER AND THEY WILL DESCRIBE IT AS AN “ART.” WHAT IS IT ABOUT SURFING THAT MAKES IT ART? Surfing is an art because it's very personal. You can go out by yourself and surf and really make what you want of it. It's a close connection to the ocean and it brings out someone's true style. 2. SPEAKING OF ART, YOU’VE MADE A NAME FOR YOURSELF NOT ONLY RIDING SURFBOARDS, BUT PAINTING THEM. HOW DID YOU GET INTO THAT AND WHAT ARE THE PERSONAL REWARDS YOU GET FROM BOTH RIDING AND DESIGNING BOARDS? I've loved to paint my boards since I was a little kid. I came across an image of (surfer) Joel Tudor in a magazine and asked
my dad to help me paint my board the same way his was painted. That was it, I was hooked. That was the first time and the last time I ever needed help because I picked it up so quick out of the love for doing it. I just always had a vision for my board and wanted it to stand apart from others while knowing I made it look that way. 3. LET’S SAY SOMEONE INVENTED A TIME MACHINE AND YOU COULD SURF WITH ANYBODY DURING ANY TIME PERIOD THROUGHOUT THE AGES. WHEN, WHERE AND WITH WHO WOULD YOU SURF? I would probably go back and surf with one of my favorite surfers by the name of Tom Blake in the 1920s. It was just such a unique time and era in surfing. Surfing was just being born really. I'd be curious to see how those old boards rode and how I'd be able to surf on them. Of course, it'd be awesome to meet Tom Blake and Duke Kahanamoku (Hawaiian surf pioneer) too since they were friends. 4. THE SURFING LIFESTYLE ELICITS MANY IMAGES IN THE AVERAGE PERSON’S MIND. WHAT’S THE GOOD, THE BAD AND THE UGLY IN THE LIFE OF A SPONSORED SURFER? The best part is going to a new place and scoring fun waves with no one really out. Those are the perks as a pro surfer, but there is also the behind the scenes. Your boards not showing up, driving for hours on end, sometimes frigid water depending on where the trip was. I mean pro surfers do work pretty dang hard to get those amazing moments that we all see in surf media. 5. KOREA IS JUST GETTING INTO SURFING. IT’S RARELY GOING TO GET THE BIG WAVES LIKE OTHER SPOTS IN THE WORLD, BUT THE PASSION IS THERE. WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE TO THE BURGEONING SURF SCENE HERE ON THE PENINSULA? I would tell people to go out and have fun! Watch what the guys in the movies are doing and imagine yourself doing it. Wanna do an air? Go out and try it over and over even if you you can't do it for a while. That's how you learn. I also think it's good to realize that with little surf, comes different board choices. If the waves are small, take out a longboard and have fun on it! Learn how to walk the nose, hang five, hang ten. When the waves get bigger take your shortboard out. Don't assume one board is made for all wave sizes. The cool thing about our line up of boards at Canvas Surfboards is our boards cater to people who just want to go out and have fun. They are easy to ride and we even make a mini longboard that surfs like a longboard and a short board. Just ride what's fun! See more about Christian and his unique line of surfboards at www.canvassurfboards.com 2012 summer_ busanhaps.com 23
HCover STORY
24 HAPS_summer 2012
KOREA’S OTHER CULTURAL WAVE BY BOBBY
MCGILL PHOTOGRAPHY BY MIKE DIXON
MORE THAN JUST A TREND, SURFING IS CREATING A NEW SUBCULTURE IN KOREA.
I
t has become almost clichéd to say that hard work is ingrained in contemporary Korean culture. Though unseated last year by Mexico as the hardest working country in the world, the average Korean annually puts in nearly 2,200 hours on the job— far outdistancing Japan, the US, the UK and Canada by about 500 hours per year. But there is a counterculture virus that’s slowly infecting the system: surfing. Karl Rugen, a native of Del Mar, California, was literally the first person to ride the waves here in 1993 when visiting on vacation. He ended up settling in Busan for the long haul in 1999, a time when he describes himself as being “the best surfer in Korea, because I was the only surfer in Korea.” Alone on the water back then and familiar with Korean cultural mores, Rugen didn’t imagine surfing would ever catch on here. “I used to wish there were a few more guys to share it with,” he recalls. “But I felt like the Koreans were never really going to get into it. It was just too counterculture, and it wasn’t catching on. Then, around 2003, five or six Korean guys were suddenly at Songjeong beach surfing regularly.” Nowadays the trend is on. If the surf charts predict good waves, you can expect to share the water with upwards of 40 surfers on a busy day in Haeundae.
“Some of the young kids I see surfing now are getting good and becoming little rippers,” says Rugen. “I do look back now to how it was, though, and realize the old adage about being careful what you wish for.” Before the “little rippers” recently took to the waves, there was a steady migration of Korean surfers to the shore over the past five or six years. Hwang Sang-won, a 36-year-old medical sales rep, epitomizes not only the growing popularity of the sport, but the effects of the surfing mindset on Korea’s pervasive hard work ethic. “I saw some surfers at Songjeong and at first I wasn’t interested; I just watched,” says Hwang, who’s been surfing for five years. “But then, the first time I surfed, I felt alive. It was addictive.” So hooked was Hwang that his job soon got in the way. “I always watch the wave charts and I never miss the waves. Whenever it is good, I skip work and go to the beach,” he says with a sly smile. When asked how his boss felt about that, his wife and fellow surfer Choi Kyung-wook cut into the conversation, laughing: “His boss didn’t know!” Choi’s transition to “surfer girl” is an interesting one. She wanted to share a hobby with her husband and decided it would be surfing. The problem was, she couldn’t swim. 2012 summer_ busanhaps.com 25
HCover STORY
“I learned to surf before I learned to swim. Now I see a wave and my heart beats fast from excitement because I feel so good.” While the thrill of surfing is evident with more Korean surfers heading to the shore, the cultural shift amongst the newlyevolving subculture is profound, says Kim “Kimbo” Bo-young, a 31-year-old Busan native who develops shoes for Nike and first learned about surfing while studying in Huntington Beach, California. “Before we started surfing, we were typical Koreans,” says Kimbo. “We focused on study, how to become rich and competing with others. But after surfing, we focused on nature, the ocean, peace and love and surfing. Our lifestyle has totally changed.” Choi agrees. The effect of surfing on her life is acute: “After me and my husband started surfing, our lives changed. First we moved close to the beach, we got new friends and everything was different.” When asked if he would take a $100,000-per-year job, nice house and fancy car if he had to work in an area with no surfing, Hwang was quick to reply, “I can’t live without surfing. There are some things that only surfers know. When I catch a wave, I feel something magical.” As the sport is still new to Koreans and only a handful of good instructors are around, they mostly pick surfing tips from DVDs and watching visiting international surfers from California or Australia, or on trips to Asian hotspots like Bali. The surfing lingo Korean surfers employ is mostly the English terms they pick up along the way, but Hangeul is starting to work its way into the local lexicon. They use Korean terms like jangpan, which means “floor cover”, when the water is flat. Surfing is called pado tagi, which means “wave riding”, and when you want to hit the waves, you say, pado taro gaja!— “Let’s go surfing!”
According to Dan Cross, a surfer from Santa Cruz, California, the Korean surf community has infused Western surfing culture with its own style. “It’s very communal,” says Cross. “At home, surfing is a peaceful experience and people don’t talk much. Here, they hoot and holler and it’s very high energy.” Unfortunately, Koreans can’t call their friends to say “Pado taro gaja!” every day—mother nature dealt the peninsula a rocky coastline comprised of mostly shallow seawater and broad tidal areas. Unlike Korea’s Jeju Island, which offers the option of surfing beyond the reef when the shore break is weak, good waves are inconsistent on Korean beaches, such as the country’s most popular beach, Haeundae, which gets about two or three good surfing days per week. Another frustrating factor is that surfing access during summer months is limited to the hours between 5 a.m. and 8:30 a.m. to accommodate the high influx of beachgoers. Enter the age-old dilemma of supply and demand, as some surfers get into occasional shouting matches and even fisticuffs over sharing the waves, says Cross. “Haeundae has a surfing peak in front of the Paradise Hotel where all of the surfers from that area go. There are times that the waves are great all around that peak (meaning that there are surfable peaks up and down the beach), but you will see 35 guys just sitting together on the one peak.” For some surfers this has created a strong sense of etiquette, requiring patience while surfers wait their turn to enjoy the limited resource. For others, it’s a “Take what you can get when you can get it,” or an “I’m a better surfer than you, so move aside” attitude. Perhaps most vexing to surfers is when the beach is closed due
“I CAN’T LIVE WITHOUT SURFING,” SAYS HWANG. “THERE ARE SOME THINGS THAT ONLY SURFERS KNOW. WHEN I CATCH A WAVE I FEEL SOMETHING MAGICAL.”
26 HAPS_summer 2012
to waves being “too high” from a storm brewing far offshore. Many will recall last year’s second annual Busan Mayor’s Cup surfing competition in Haeundae, when a group of local and notable international contestants were called out of the water by public officials due to high (though arguably perfect) surf. The next day, the headline that made its way around the world: “South Korea Cancels Surf Competition Due to Large Waves.” Expats from surfing countries who are accustomed to freedom of the waves back home and a long history of surfing culture get prickly with strict regulation during summer months. Along with Korean surfers visiting from outside of Busan, expats would be wise to recognize that the warm weather brings millions of dollars into beachfront communities through parasol, beach chair and tube rentals, along with a large infusion of tourist dollars into local businesses that struggle during the winter months. To lobby for broader access, many local Korean surfers are members of the Busan Surf Association. The group meets with government officials two or three times a year to push their cause, with the attitude that establishing a good rapport is the best way to gain acceptance for the sport. Granted, it’s hard not to feel occasionally frustrated, says Kimbo. “If there are good waves, we want to go out,” she says. “But it is the law, and we don’t have a choice. If we follow the laws and keep a good relationship with 119 and the Ocean Police, maybe later they will understand us.” Regulations and other obstacles aside, it’s all about the love of surfing. For Korea’s first crop of wave riders there is also a sense of the pioneering spirit and high hopes for the sport in the future. “For us, we are the first generation of surfers in Korea, so we live with surfing and working as a balance. It’s just a hobby,” says Kimbo. “But the next generation, if they love surfing like we do, we can support them and they can have it better than us.” If you want to check on the current surf condition, in Korea go to www.buoyweather.com.
TOP 5 KOREAN BEACHES FOR SURFING 1. CHILPO BEACH - POHANG (경상북도 포항시 북구 홍해읍); +82 54 261 5773; eng.ipohang.org 2. HAEUNDAE BEACH - BUSAN (부산광역시 해운대구 중2로); +82 51 749 7611; eng.haeundae.go.kr 3. SONGJEONG BEACH - BUSAN (부산광역시 해운대구 송정동 712-2); +82 51 749 5705; eng.haeundae.go.kr 4. GISAMUN BEACH - GANGWON PROVINCE (강원도 양양군 현북면 기사문리); +82 33 670 2114; eng.yangyang.go.kr 5. JUNGMUN BEACH - JEJU ISLAND (제주특별자치도 서귀포시 색달동 3039); +82 64 710 3312; english.tour2jeju.net 2012 summer_ busanhaps.com 27
HActivity GUIDE
BUSAN’S
BEACHES
WHILE BUSAN’S BEACHES AREN’T RENOWNED FOR THEIR SERENITY, THEY OFFER TONS OF CHANCES FOR WATER SPORTS, FAMILY FUN, DINING AND ROMANCE. HAEUNDAE BEACH
Fascinated by its beauty, scholar Choi Chi-won of the Silla Dynasty carved the words “Hae-un-dae” on a stone wall on the island sometime in the middle of the ninth century. Today, that beauty remains, but is shared with by upwards of 700,000 visitors per day during the summer months. The 1.5km beach consists of rough white sand from the Chuncheon Stream, though it’s not visible during summer afternoons when nearly 8,000 multi-colored parasols turn the sand into a sea of blue, red, white and pink. The entire beach is lined with major hotels, so you have to get past those to reach the neighborhoods for local food. To get there, take subway line 2 to Haeundae Station. It’s about a five-minute walk.
SONG-DO BEACH
Officially Korea’s first beach (as of 1913), Song-do has re-emerged as a must-stop on local tours. Song-do, which translates into Pine Island, was given its name due to the lush pine trees adorning the outskirts of the beach. Located just three kilometers from Nampo-dong, Song-do offers a romantic backdrop for couples looking for some peace and quiet, away from the hustle and bustle of the city. To get there, take bus 34 or 134 from Busan Station southward.
ILGWANG BEACH
Located in Gijang County, Ilgwang Beach is a little out of the way, but is better for a guaranteed quiet day at the beach than any others. As the water levels are not too deep, novice swimmers and children are more prone to enjoy swimming here as opposed to other beaches in the city. There are also plenty of accommodations, restaurants and camping facilities available nearby, should you choose to spend the night. To get there, take subway line 2 to Jangsan Station. At exit 9, take bus 180, and get off at Ilgwang Beach.
IMRANG BEACH
The 1.5km-long Imrang Beach is also located in Gijang County, and is famous for its fresh water and fishing. With the water level only four feet deep, many families with young children find the beach ideal for swimming, while the neighborhood has a distinct character of its own. Tongdosa Temple and Jangansa Temple are located nearby for those looking to get out of the beach scene for the afternoon. Though relatively quiet, more tourists have been frequenting the area lately due to its golden sand. To get there, take bus 37, 180 or 188 from Jangsan Station. 28 HAPS_summer 2012
SONGJEONG BEACH
Tucked away just outside of Busan proper, Songjeong Beach offers plenty for the family to enjoy, from shallow swimming to a much less crowded atmosphere than its neighbor Haeundae. The beach is wide and long, stretching for 1.2km, and offers plenty of play room with fine soft sand. It’s relatively busier on weekends but usually surprisingly empty on weekdays. To get there, take subway line 2 and get off at Haeundae Station (exit 7), and take bus 100, 100-1, 139 or 142. Get off at Songjeong Station and walk 600 meters.
GWANGALLI BEACH
On its good days, Gwangalli Beach is one of the most picturesque locations in the city, framed by the 6.5km Diamond Bridge in the background that is especially beautiful when illuminated at night. During the summer, the beach becomes a playpen offering more activities for water enthusiasts than any other: swimming, windsurfing, kite-boarding, kayaking, boogie boarding and occasionally surfing. Though Haeundae gets all the press, Gwangan is a great place to go for a little bit of everything, with lots of restaurants and cafes lining the entire 1.4km stretch. To get there, take subway line 2 to Gwangan or Geumnyeonsan Station. It’s about a five-minute walk.
DADAEPO BEACH
Located at the estuary of the Nakdonggang River and just eight kilometers from downtown, Dadaepo Beach is a great place to chill out and have a picnic, collect a few seashells and go for a swim in the shallow surf. Just up the river is one of the best places in Korea to check out migratory birds chilling in the marshes. At just under a kilometer long, it is beautiful but little-known to foreigners because of how far away it is from the city center.
To get there, take bus number 2 or 98 from Busan Station or get off the subway at Sinpyeong Station and take bus 2, 11, 96 or 98. 2012 summer_ busanhaps.com 29
HSports
TALK
GAME ON! BY JEFF LIEBSCH
THE WEATHER IS GREAT AND THERE ARE ALL KINDS OF LOCAL SPORTS GROUPS OUT THERE ENJOYING IT. HERE’S YOUR GUIDE TO GETTING OUT AND JOINING THE TEAM. ULTIMATE FRISBEE
Since its inception two years ago, Busan has seen the birth of three local teams that compete in the Republic of Korea Ultimate league. Seasons run in the spring and fall, with each lasting about two months. Games are usually played Sundays, though you can find impromptu games on the beach mid-week during the summer, or regularly scheduled action at Namcheon Elementary School on Sunday evenings throughout the year. For more info, you can check out www.leaguelineup.com/rokultimate.
RUBGY
The Busan Bandits Rugby Club formed in November 2011 and has grown into one of the more popular sporting teams around the city. Boasting members from all over the globe, they keep the traditional rugby spirit by practicing in the afternoon and imbibing a few pints afterwards at Beached Bar in Gwangalli. They do participate in the odd tournament and are always looking for fresh blood on the pitch. They train at 2 p.m. on Saturdays at Samrak Park in Sasang, or you can join their Facebook page by searching for “Busan Bandits”.
BOWLING
Founded by David Alderman 2010, the Busan Bowling League is a great way for friends to enjoy some fun on the lanes. The league started with only six teams, but quickly grew to 14 with several local businesses acting as sponsors. The league is open to any and all committed Busanites. They meet at the Jaesong Dong Bowling Center (051-782-9108) on Tuesdays and Thursdays. For more information, contact David Alderman (010-7919-122, dcaredman@hotmail.com) or search Facebook for “Busan Bowling League”.
GAELIC FOOTBALL
As part of the nationwide Korean Gaelic League, Laochra Busan Gaelic Athletic Association Club trains every Saturday midday at Samrak Park in Sasang. They have a men’s and women’s squad made up of international players who’ve competed in the Korean Gaelic League and represented Korea in the Asian Gaelic Games. New members, whether seasoned veterans or newbies, are welcome. For more information, check Facebook for “Laochra Busan Gaa” or email them at busangaa@gmail.com.
30 HAPS_summer 2012
FOOTBALL
Football (or soccer, depending on your preference) is well-represented around the area with three local teams: Inter Busan, Busan United and Changwon Wednesday FC. The league began roughly 10 years ago and has blossomed into an established organization with a high level of skill. “Playing soccer in Korea, I’ve found it a great way to meet a lot of like-minded people,” says Inter Busan member Stuart Gribben of Scotland. “Guys that have been here longer pass on great knowledge of life in Korea.” You can find out more at www.leaguelineup.com/kffl.
MAKING A RUN FOR IT IN BUSAN BY BIANCA DAVIS
Running is the most basic and natural form of exercise, requiring no gym membership and no equipment but a pair of shoes. There are no rules but that you move forward. If someone is new to Busan, or new to running in general, the best resource for all things running is the roughly over 600-member Facebook group “Waeguks Got Runs.” The page offers local runners posting information on training, races, nutrition and anything running-related. Sean de Waal, an administrator on the group’s page, says it’s an informal running club; it does not organize races, take fees or provide services. Instead, it helps foreign runners in Korea find their way. Though primarily focused on the southern half of the country, the page offers translated information on how to register for races across the country, prompting new events weekly. “There are runners from all levels of ability—from some speedsters who run under 35 minutes in 10K races, to plodders who may come home in an hour-and-a-half or more for the same race,” de Waal says, adding that the same event will often host three or four courses, including a 5km, 10km, half-marathon (21.1km) and full marathon (42.2km). According to de Waal, races in Korea are not only limited to the road. Trail races are growing in popularity across the peninsula as well. “The abundance of hills and mountains in Korea with well developed hiking trails makes it pretty easy to get into— just follow the brightly coloured ajummas and ajeosshis at your nearest mountain park.” Running is not only a great way to get fit, it’s also a great way to see the country: in the spring and summer, races are held just about every weekend all across Korea. (You wouldn’t guess it, of course, given how few runners one sees on the street. In most parts of Busan, save for the tracks along the Oncheonjang and Suyeong rivers, it’s far more common to see a foreigner running than a Korean. But that shouldn’t stop someone from donning their shoes and going for a run.) It’s more fun if you run with a friend, and the Waeguks Facebook group is a great place to meet other runners or seek advice. If you want to start running, de Waal recommends beginners start off slowly, have a running buddy when possible, eat properly and seek advice and support from experienced runners. That way, they’ll be able to enjoy the sport for years longer, injury-free. For more info check the Waeguks Got Runs Facebook page.
BUSAN IPARK SCHEDULE August 8 - Suwon August 11 - Jeonbuk August 26 - Sangju
2012 summer_ busanhaps.com 31
HTravel
INTERNATIONAL
BIKINGVIENTIANE BY GREG DOLEZAL CYCLING THROUGH LAOS IS A GREAT OPPORTUNITY TO EXPLORE ONE OF THE LAST HIDDEN SECRETS IN INDOCHINA.
B
y bicycle, one can see the real Laos everywhere. From a Lao wedding engagement party complete with super-loud music pumped from a way-toobig sound system, to a celebration that looked to me like the second line march in New Orleans with brass instruments, umbrella-carrying dancers and a few bottles that looked suspiciously like Beer Lao, everywhere we cycled, we saw real life happening. Thirteen-year Vientiane resident Aline van der Meulen offers English-language city tours, rain or shine, every day of the year. In her own words, “Dutch people are born on bikes,” and what started off as a hobby has since become the successful enterprise known as Vientiane ByCycle. A former art critic, travel agent and flight attendant, van der Meulen shares her personal insights, history and fun facts about life in Laos while cycling the city on one of 20 high-end mountain bikes available to riders. “I started this business here out of a feeling of rebellion,” says van der Meulen. “Places like Luang Prabang get all the attention because they are lovely, but they are like open-air museums compared to the life-as-it-really-is beauty of Vientiane.” Visits to various temples, markets and monuments can be found by anyone with a map and a bike, but what makes this experience unique are the people and flavors that only someone in the know can show. Taste sweet rice as it’s being made by a local family, meet a veteran cock fight trainer or a former general who collects Vietnam war era artifacts. “I really like the variety and the perspective on local life,” says Anne-Marie Goudoever, a Dutch traveler who runs her own eco bicycle tour company in Malaysia. “It’s a good mix with plenty of interesting background information.” So far, most of Vientiane ByCycle’s clients are from Australia, England and the United States, but there are also groups of Japanese travelers and various Europeans who want something beyond the backpacker self-guided tour. Once registered, ByCycle’s clients receive an email suggesting clothes, 32 HAPS_summer 2012
sunblock and other useful tips. It is advised to follow the expertise of seasoned pros unless you want the most awesome farmer’s tan ever or don’t mind getting mud on your linen suit. While traveling in Kazakhstan, van der Meulen met her husband, who today participates in the tours and makes sure that no one is left behind and can stop for photos or an unscheduled pit stop. Managing large groups can be difficult— the minimum number of riders for a tour is two and the cap is 20—which is why van der Meulen says that groups of around nine or 10 are the easiest and most flexible. If you’re skeptical about traveling alone but also aren’t keen to join an expensive mainstream tour group, ByCyle is an excellent option. Cycling around the country’s capital is a great chance to get a real perspective of the city—and a full night’s sleep.
Vientiane ByCycle offers full-day and half-day tours. A Lao lunch, snacks and drinks are provided along with gloves and helmets for the safety-conscious. Reservations can be made via their website, www.vientianebycycle.com, or call 020-55812337 at least a day in advance.
Travel Korea
ASK A LOCAL
HAPS ASKS SOME SEASONED LOCALS ABOUT WHAT THEY LIKE ABOUT KOREA AND WHAT THEY WOULD RECOMMEND TO PEOPLE LIVING AND VISITING HERE. NAME: Kim Jeong-hwa OCCUPATION: Staff worker at Dong-A University’s graduate school office RESIDENCE: Marine City, Haeundae WHAT IS A PLACE PEOPLE SHOULD VISIT IN BUSAN THAT THEY MIGHT NOT KNOW ABOUT? I’d like to recommend Dongbaekseom (Camelia Island). Dongbaekseom is a perfect place for a walk and it has a great ocean view. You can also drop by Nurimaru APEC house, where APEC was held in 2005. WHAT BUSAN-SPECIFIC FOOD SHOULD VISITORS TRY? People may think sea eel (꼼장어) looks gross. But it’s very delicious and good for health. Roasted sea eel and vegetables with red pepper sauce is one of the great local foods of Busan. IF PEOPLE WANT TO FIND A QUIET PLACE TO GET AWAY, WHERE WOULD YOU RECOMMEND THEY GO IN BUSAN? Beobgy Springs (법기수원지) is actually in Yangsan, but it only takes one hour by car from Haeundae. The retinospora forest and lake are really beautiful, and make you calm and relaxed. WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE PLACE TO TRAVEL IN KOREA OUTSIDE OF BUSAN? Oedo Botaina (외도 보타니아) on Goeje Island is a Korean Butchart Garden. Their gardening is awesome, and it’s a great place to take beautiful pictures.
NAME: Kim Min-chen OCCUPATION: Professor and researcher at Kyungsung University RESIDENCE: Yongdang-dong WHAT IS A PLACE PEOPLE SHOULD VISIT IN BUSAN THAT THEY MIGHT NOT KNOW ABOUT? At Hwangryeong Mountain Beacon Mound (황령산 봉수대), you can look down at the beautiful Busan city landscape by day and night. At Democracy Park (민주공원), there are many sculptures, a little theater, an exhibition hall, the democracy library, etc. WHAT BUSAN-SPECIFIC FOOD SHOULD VISITORS TRY? Milmyeon (wheat noodles) is like naengmyeon (cold noodles), but the ingredient of this food is different. Pork and rice soup (dwaeji-gukbap, 돼지국밥) is also a very representative Busan food. IF PEOPLE WANT TO FIND A QUIET PLACE TO GET AWAY, WHERE WOULD YOU RECOMMEND THEY GO IN BUSAN? Igidae Park, Democracy Park, Haedong Yonggung Temple, Amnam Park, Taejongdae Resort Park and the United Nations Memorial Cemetery. WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE PLACE TO TRAVEL IN KOREA OUTSIDE OF BUSAN? Drive Route 7 (7번 국도). You can enjoy the eastern coast of Korea. This highway goes through three provinces (Gyeongsangnam-do, Gyeongsangbuk-do, and Gangwon-do) or Suncheon Bay (순천만). Here is known to be the area which rare birds inhabit, and is especially the unique habitat of the hooded crane. 2012 summer_ busanhaps.com 33
HTravel KOREA
UP IN THE
VALLEY BY MICHAEL FRAIMAN
NEAR DANYANG, SQUEEZED INTO A NARROW VALLEY SURROUNDED BY MOUNTAINS, SITS GUINSA TEMPLE, THE HEADQUARTERS OF THE CHEONTAE SCHOOL OF BUDDHISM.
A
very particular darkness envelops Guinsa at night. Arriving after sunset, one is greeted by a vast parking lot beside something smaller than a village—a splatter of homes and restaurants, maybe 30 in all, mostly closed up by 8 p.m. The temple complex itself lies one kilometer uphill, wedged within a valley surrounded by mountains on the eastern border of North Chungcheong, the landlocked province. To find it, one must drive to the end of Guinsa Road, a dangerously narrow pavement that snakes along the side of a cliff from Highway 595, at least 30 minutes from any reasonably populated town. All this is to say that there is not very much light in the neighbourhood after sunset, from either the road or faraway homes or distant highway; with the sun disappeared, the only illumination comes from the few street lamps strewn around the parking lot. The sleepy mini-town has already tucked into bed. I slept in the spare room of a bungalow that an elderly couple rents out for 30,000 won, and awoke at 7:30 Sunday morning. There’s no real way-finding signage even in Korean language, but there were hordes of middle-aged and elderly Koreans to follow, so follow I did, for maybe 20 minutes. When we reached the entrance, the Four Heavenly Kings Gate, some stopped to bow, though most of us walked straight through it. We passed the next gate, passed the first building, passed the administrative hall… We continued for so long that it be34 HAPS_summer 2012
came quickly and embarrassingly evident to me that this lonesome temple complex was easily as intricate as the splatter of homes below, rife with gardens and statues and over two dozen individual buildings—and, most bizarrely of all, a swarm of thousands of Koreans. Here’s what I knew going in: that Guinsa, created relatively recently in 1945, headquarters the distinctly Korean sect of Cheontae Buddhism and its roughly two million followers; that the temples are uniquely tall due to being surrounded by mountains; and that without a car, the easiest way to reach it is via trans-city bus from the nearest towns of Jecheon (~30km away) or Danyang (~15km). More importantly, however, here’s what I did not know: the Sunday I visited, January 29, 2012, happened to be the first Sunday after the Lunar New Year, i.e., one of Buddhism’s most celebrated and holiest days. This accounted for the unexpected 8,000 people scurrying throughout the area that weekend, among whom I was almost certainly and accidentally the only Westerner. A sweet-faced girl in her 20s, an employee in the administrative building, clarified for me the specialness of the weekend. In the days following Lunar New Year, she said, thousands of Korean families drive up to the temple complex to pray, some staying as long as four or five days. Most sleep in the general lodge area (a wide jjimjilbang-like floor in the Cafeteria Hall building) and eat generic meals of rice, kimchi and
“DO THEY PRAY ALL DAY?” I ASKED, INCREDULOUS. “NO, NO,” THE SWEET-FACED GIRL REPLIED. “MAYBE… 10 HOURS A DAY?” soup served free of charge. There are well-worn hiking paths through the mountains, but most come just to pray. “Do they pray all day?” I asked, incredulous. “No, no,” the sweet-faced girl replied. “Maybe… 10 hours a day?” It’s worth clarifying that most families don’t stay longer than 24 hours. And some, like 27-year-old Hyeong-yeon, come less for the religious enlightenment than for the simple peace of mind. A soft-spoken physical therapist with braces whose English is barely better than my Korean (read: bad), I met Hyeong-yeon on the bus back that afternoon; he explained that he used to visit with his family every year since he was a child. When he moved out of his parents’ house five years ago, partly at his mother’s behest and partly out of sentimentality, he began coming on his own annually during the New Year. Now, he finds it one of the only places in Korea where he can escape the troubles of being a single 27-year-old boy and absorb himself in real, palpable peace. It’s no wonder why. That morning I’d trekked past the parkaclad ajummas huddling around the instant coffee vending machines and hordes of shoes respectfully removed at the door of each temple, and reached the Great Teacher Hall, Guinsa’s modest peak. To look down at the Korean landscape for the first time from there, one would be convinced it’s nothing but mountains. The sound of monks’ praying, chanting, banging is inescapable—it echoes throughout the valley below, mingling with the birds’ early morning song through unpolluted air against the early morning coral sky. I try not to romanticize stuff like this, but it was a goddamn romantic moment, and you don’t need to be a Cheontae Buddhist to have felt it.
Guinsa is a large, remote temple complex in North Chungcheong Province and has several direct buses which take around five hours from Busan.
2012 summer_ busanhaps.com 35
Cultural Corner
SALIM WOMEN’S SHELTER BY ERIN CAMPEAU
T
ucked away in a back alley of a lesser-known cor- en have access to room and board at the shelter for up to 18 ner of Busan is the Salim Women’s Shelter, one of months and at a group home for up to three years. If the womseveral facilities under the umbrella of the Center en want to study at a college or university, their qualification for Women’s Rights Salim. It is a respite for women exam fees and first semester are covered. The goal of Salim is who have recently escaped from sex trafficking, to empower women who were once victims of this dehumanand a safe haven for those with nowhere else to go. izing, underground industry. Modern day slavery is an issue that affects millions of peoAside from the work they do with the women at the shelter, ple around the world every day. Yet somehow, it is still largely Salim also works as public educators. They recognize that the ignored. In Korea, women are trafficked from the Philippines, stereotypes behind sex work have to change if Korea and the Russia and China, and Korean women themselves sometimes rest of the world are to move forward towards the eradication become slaves within their of human trafficking. The THE WOMEN HAVE ACCESS TO ROOM own country. Few people public is unfortunately have heard about the fires in AND BOARD AT THE SHELTER FOR UP TO still given biased informa2000 and 2002, which killed a tion that keeps women total of 19 women who were 18 MONTHS AND AT A GROUP HOME FOR in the sex trade. Victims locked in brothels and unable UP TO THREE YEARS. IF THEY WANT TO are often unaware of their to escape. In fact, it wasn’t rights and are shunned STUDY AT A COLLEGE OR UNIVERSITY, until 2004 that the Korean by a global society that government passed strict anTHEIR QUALIFICATION EXAM FEES AND tends to think of prostiti-trafficking laws establishing tution as a choice. By inFIRST SEMESTER ARE COVERED. penalties for traffickers. forming the public about The staff members at Salim have dedicated their lives to the the physical threats, debt bondage and emotional abuse that cause of ending human slavery. I have been volunteering at Sa- keep women enslaved around the world, an end to sex traflim for about three months now, teaching English to the coun- ficking may finally be in sight. The women at Salim are at the selors, legal advisors and directors so they can better commu- forefront of this fight. It has been an honor to work with them, nicate with foreign women who seek safety at the shelter. This to learn from them and to see the difference that a small but is an extraordinary group of women; their hearts are huge and dedicated group of individuals can make. their perseverance—through a lack of government funding, What can you do to help? Due to the safety and anonymity of seemingly endless paperwork and glaring social stigmas—is the workers and occupants of the shelter, we are unable to disnothing short of awe-inspiring. close its location or contact details. If you would like to become inThe shelter provides legal support, medical services, and volved with volunteer work or make a donation please contact Erin consultation and vocational training to victims of prostitution. (campeau.erin@gmail.com) or Corrine (Corrine.vankester@gmail. All of these services are provided free of charge. The wom- com) for more information. 36 HAPS_summer 2012
Ask an Expat
EXPAT EXTRACTS MICHELLE MA AGE: 26 HOMETOWN: Jilin, China OCCUPATION: Post-graduate student HOW LONG IN KOREA? Two-and-a-half years WHAT BROUGHT YOU TO KOREA? To get a master’s degree in fashion design. WHAT DO YOU LIKE MOST ABOUT LIVING IN KOREA? The beach. WHAT “MUST-SEE” PLACES WOULD YOU SUGGEST FOR NEW ARRIVALS? I would say the best things for people to see first are the beaches. BESIDES FRIENDS AND FAMILY, WHAT DO YOU MISS MOST ABOUT YOUR HOME COUNTRY? Real Chinese food and fruit. HOW LONG DO YOU SEE YOURSELF STAYING IN KOREA IN THE FUTURE? At least six more months.
CONOR MULLIN AGE: 29 HOMETOWN: Galway, Ireland OCCUPATION: English Teacher at Kid’s College HOW LONG IN KOREA? Three-and-a-half years WHAT BROUGHT YOU TO KOREA? My friend from home was over here already and my job in Ireland came to an end, so he persuaded me to come work at his school. I’ve been there ever since. WHAT DO YOU LIKE MOST ABOUT LIVING IN KOREA? The lack of stress associated with the job is a welcome change from my previous job. WHAT “MUST-SEE” PLACES WOULD YOU SUGGEST FOR NEW ARRIVALS? Kyungsung University area on a Saturday night. BESIDES FRIENDS AND FAMILY, WHAT DO YOU MISS MOST ABOUT YOUR HOME COUNTRY? I miss watching the Champions League games at a reasonable hour and going to football matches. HOW LONG DO YOU SEE YOURSELF STAYING IN KOREA IN THE FUTURE? I can see myself doing one more year, but I’ve said that for the past three years, so you never know! 2012 summer_ busanhaps.com 37
Dining News
THE DISH:
GRILLIN’ AND CHILLIN’
BY JEN SOTHAM AND FRANKIE HERRINGTON
INVITED TO A ROOFTOP BARBECUE OR POTLUCK? HAVING SOME VEGETARIAN FRIENDS OVER FOR DINNER? JUST LOOKING FOR SOMETHING SIMPLE AND HEALTHY TO WHIP UP ON A HOT DAY? NOT TO FRET: HERE ARE TWO EASY RECIPES TO MAKE THE SWELTERING DAYS OF SUMMER A BIT MORE BEARABLE.
FRANKIE’S TOFU MARINADE TIME: Overnight / Actual: 1-1½ hours INGREDIENTS: • 5 tbsp rice vinegar • 3 tbsp light soy sauce • 2 tbsp dark soy sauce • 1½ tsp sesame oil • 1 tsp granulated sugar • ¾ tsp chili paste • 1½ tsp finely chopped fresh garlic • 1½ tbsp olive oil • 500 grams extra-firm tofu INSTRUCTIONS: To press tofu, wrap the uncut block in a
JEN’S GAZPACHO
TIME: 30 minutes + 2 hours chilling. INGREDIENTS: • 2 cans of S&W diced tomatoes with green chilies, undrained or 4 medium- ripe diced and 4-5 diced peperoncinis • 2 cucumbers, peeled and very finely diced • 1 medium yellow bell pepper • 2-3 small spicy green peppers • ½ large purple onion, diced • 1 handful of washed, chopped cilantro/coriander • 2 tbsp apple cider vinegar • 2 cloves chopped fresh garlic • ¼ cup lime juice • 1 tbsp dried dill weed • 1 ripe avocado, diced • Sour cream or plain Denmark yogurt
FIND THE HARD TO FIND July saw the opening of a new Shinsegae Food Store, located in the Hyundai IPark complex in Marine City, Dongbaek near Haeundae. Like its sister store, the foreign food kiosk in the basement of Shinsegae, it’s chock full of hard to come by ingredients, as well as a large organic section. The cheese section is vast, but grossly overpriced. However, canned goods such as whole chipotle peppers and chick peas are on offer at prices that undercut even Home Plus. The two finds that made us leap with joy: frozen limes, six for 7,000W, and Herr’s salt and vinegar kettle chips. Yes! 38 HAPS_summer 2012
clean tea towel and position between two plates with a weighted item (e.g. a pot) on the top plate. (This removes liquid from the tofu, allowing it to absorb the marinade.) Set aside for an hour. In a bowl, whisk together the rice vinegar, soy sauces, sesame oil, sugar, chili paste, garlic and olive oil. Cut tofu into desired segments and soak in the marinade overnight in a watertight container, flipping the pieces occasionally to evenly coat. Add oil to medium-high heated skillet. Once skillet is hot, fry pieces for 3-4 minutes on each side. Alternatively, barbecue tofu on skewers with vegetables. TIP: You can reserve extra marinade for stir-frying vegetables. INSTRUCTIONS: Preheat your oven to 200ºC. In a large skillet, add berry filling ingredients, bring to a boil, then let simmer for 10-15 minutes until the mixture has thickened. Meanwhile, combine the dry ingredients for the biscuits. Cut the butter into the dry ingredients with a fork. Keep in the fridge until berries are ready. When berries have thickened, let them cool while you add soy milk to the dry cookie mixture to form a soft biscuit-like dough. Don’t over-mix the dough or your biscuits will be tough. The consistency is pretty forgiving. You’re good as long as it holds together, but is soft enough to break apart into clumps. Half-fill individual ramekins with the berry mixture. Add chunks of the biscuit mixture on top. Sprinkle with sugar and bake for 20 minutes. Serve warm.
Dining & Food
A TASTE OF FRANCE
TRES BON’S AUTHENTIC-STYLE FRENCH CUISINE MARKS A WELCOME CULTURAL STRIDE IN ONE OF BUSAN’S MOST VIBRANT AND EVOLVING COMMUNITIES.
F
ans of French cooking will be thrilled to learn of Tres Bon, a new French bistro established last August near Gwangalli Beach. Its menu is small and the spot can only seat around twenty diners, but it provides a dining experience unique to Busan. Its fine cuisine, informal tricolor decor and jovial atmosphere, all produced by the proprietor-chef, Edward Ham, make it a welcome addition to the city. Edward was born and raised in Busan before attending Queensland University in Australia, where he studied hotel management. While working at an upscale hotel in Lausanne, Switzerland, he took a cooking class that sparked his interest in French cuisine. He proceeded to study his new passion for two years in Lyon, followed by a stint in Bordeaux to learn about wine. Before opening Tres Bon (which means “very good” in French), he taught at a university and was general manager of a five-star hotel. With his wife Song Su-jin waiting on tables, Ham says his mission at Tres Bon is making natural food that both tastes good and benefits people’s health. Tres Bon’s menu offers pastas as well as French fare, including guanciale, a delicious spicy spaghetti dish made with sausage. All pastas are priced under 20,000 won, with the alio e olio being only 8,000. Diners who associate French food with small portions at high prices need not fear: Ham serves filling portions for 35,000 won or under. The current offering of five entrees are all worth trying. My personal favorite is the duck confit with orange sauce, but they also have lamb chops, roasted chicken with herbs and jumbo shrimp with cream sauce, all 35,000 won or under, and all of which include green beans and fried potatoes. The most expensive item on the menu is the Surprise de Chef, a large platter with a little bit of everything; it’s enough for two people with medium appetites. Tres Bon’s wine list is limited, but the prices are reasonable for the quality, and only French wine really complements
French food. For non-drinkers, Tres Bon also offers real mint tea for 4,000 won with free refills. Ham grows his own herbs in planters by the doorway, including fresh mint and several other herbs which he uses to flavor his dishes. Tres Bon is part of a growing number of French restaurants springing up around Korea. According to the France Korea Chamber of Commerce and Industry’s new guidebook, there are now over 70 French dining establishments in the country. Restaurants like Tres Bon are evidence that as this country’s globalization presses on, its residents are hungry for something beyond kimchi and rice.
Tres Bon is open from 11am to 11pm and is located on the very last street at the south end of Gwanganlli Beach. Head away from the beach and it will be on your right just before you reach the fork in the road. 051-625-1334/010-8339-7736 or email at nodazi3@ hanmail.net.
2012 summer_ busanhaps.com 39
Music Scene
DAMMIT, JANET! BY JEN SOTHAM THE DAMMIT JANETS HAVE INFUSED BUSAN’S MUSIC SCENE WITH AN ORIGINAL STYLE THAT MAY MAKE AUDIENCES WANT TO POP BUBBLE GUM OR SLUG WHISKEY. EITHER WAY, IT’S ALL DAMN GOOD.
W
henever I watch a performance by The Dammit Janets, it almost feels as if I’m a fly on the wall at a slumber party (minus the sexy pillow fights). Whether they’re sharing a whisper and a giggle between songs or delivering one of lead singer Lauren Leach’s raw bluesy/country/ain’t-takin’-noshit originals, the intimacy of their onstage interactions makes you wonder, “Are they playing for me, or for themselves?” Leach, the 27-year-old Gurley, Alabama native, met 24-yearold Kiwi Elizabeth Cameron just over a year ago at a TEFL course in Prague, where Cameron was Leach’s teacher-trainer. They didn’t exactly hit it off. Leach jokes that Cameron criticized her for “smiling too much” when disciplining students. When Cameron decided to move to Busan earlier this year, her TEFL company gave her the names of previous students who were here. She dropped Leach a line, and the two began stalking each other’s Facebook pages, discovering that they had a whole lot more than Prague in common. Cameron’s arrival in Busan corresponded with Leach’s performance in the Wolfhound’s acoustic showdown (where she took first place). As Cameron watched Leach perform, she immediately started working out harmonies in her head and recalls thinking, “Shit’s gettin’ real!” They decided that they would 40 HAPS_summer 2012
debut during the then-upcoming Voices for Vaginas event, and Cameron showed up at Leach’s place to jam with a bag full of toy instruments from HomePlus and a couple of spoons, perfect compliments to Leach’s three-string guitar. Once Cameron’s spoons got taped to a Danielle Steele romance novel, their rhythm section was complete. They describe subsequent practices as something out of an SNL skit, where they’d talk in different accents, often inevitably leading to one of them spewing out a mid-western, “Aw, dammit.” Thus was born the name of the act—homage to a classic song from The Rocky Horror Picture Show. When asked who’s the “Dammit” and who’s the “Janet”, Cameron says, “Isn’t it obvious? I’m definitely the Janet!” Leach chimes in, “I have a really laid-back approach to music. If we mess up, so what? Music is supposed to be messy and fun. But it also needs its order and precision. That’s why we have such a good dynamic.” “A good dynamic” is a gross understatement. If you haven’t had the good fortune to see The Dammit Janets play yet, keep your eyes peeled for their increasingly frequent gigs. And don’t be surprised when you find yourself tappin’ yer heels and clapping along. Their perfect blend of schoolgirl femininity, catchy tunes and kitschy fun has breathed new life into Busan’s everevolving music scene.
Nightlife & Music
SIMPLY GENIUS
BY EUGENE SMITH
THERE’S EINSTEIN AND HENDRIX. THERE’S HAWKING AND WHOEVER THAT SUPER SMART GUY WAS IN THE RUSSELL CROWE MOVIE. AND THEN, THERE’S SIMPLY GENIUS. Genius is a band both incredibly tight and very loose. Though retaining an aggressive punk sound, they do not hold anti-establishment ideologies or insist on bringing down ‘The System’. Instead, Genius has created something new out of the punk genre, which has been described as ‘taking the mickey out of itself’. When people first hear Genius’s recordings, it’s easy to catch their influences. Fun House by Iggy and the Stooges comes to mind, as well as touch of the Ramones and the Misfits. But in order to grasp Genius’s full potential, one must see them live. Drummer and backing vocalist Casey McKeever shoots out such madly energetic dance beats that he once split his head open on a cymbal in the now-defunct club Womb and kept playing while his blood spilled all over the kit. That is the definition of dedication. The broken-Konglish sung by lead vocalist and guitarist Kim Il-du is what gives the group its comical and sarcastic touch. The banter exchanged between Kim and bassist Steve C, whose role as a leading vocalist is steadily increasing, is what makes
Genius’s songs “Once I Was a Dog” and “Yellow Rabbit” such a good laugh. Genius (a name that refers to one of Kim’s songs “I Am An Inevitable (Undeniable) Genius”, which is also tattooed on his back) was formed in 2008 under the name Mamason, and recorded their debut album Yangatchi in a low-key fashion with Kim Tae-hoon at the Geumjeong Youth Center. It took only a few hours to record the album with most songs completed in one take. This was followed up by their second album, Birth, Choice, Death, in 2010. The band considers recording that second album a new experience, mostly because Kim was not hungover.
FLASHBACK - AFTER SCHOOL
BY JAMES TURNBULL
Dubbed the “Korean Pussycat Dolls” on native to cutesy girl-groups. But multiple their debut in 2009, After School really member and concept changes later— stood out as a genuine grrrl-power alter- most recently with badass leader Kahi ‘graduating’ and teenager Kaeun ‘enrolling’—it’s high time for After School version 2.0 to make its mark. Does the minialbum Flashback deliver? Alas, no, not with the title track. While it’s energetic, and does have a catchy “bo-bo-bo-bo-boy I miss you” hook to sing along to, the mix of vocal styles and tempos simply fail to mesh. Likewise, the music video lacks any kind of narrative, and was surprisingly light on the eye-candy.
ALREADY FAMOUS
Genius eradicates formality and puts raw energy on the front line. Their popularity is increasing exponentially with only a few venues left untainted by their robust performances across South Korea. They went international this May when they played at the Refuge in Taichung and Taipei’s Vicious Circle, an affiliate of Taiwan punk collective Chaos Punk. A third album is scheduled to be released just before their Japanese debut this September and, according to the band, is set to include “bagpipes and Korean girl-rappers.” For more on Genius, check out their Facebook page at facebook.com/GeniusRock.
“Rip Off”, however, does provide a visceral clubbing experience with its heavy drums, although the Japanese version was grittier with Kahi’s vocals. Also, it’s difficult not to fall in love with the sultry voice of Nana in “Eyeliner”, along with her fast-paced solo. Add the ballads “Wristwatch” and “Timeless”—the latter a duet by main vocalists Raina and Jungah—and Flashback definitely provides a decent, if uninspired, range of songs. I’m eagerly looking forward to the four missing music videos. Just expect to wait much longer for the group to step out of Kahi’s shadow.
BY EUGENE SMITH
The increasingly popular bar Almost Famous was founded by Busan bartending veteran Go Hye-jin in early 2011. According to Go, the bar’s name refers to a connection between the mainstream and underground rather than Cameron Crowe’s iconic flick. “We wanted a club that belonged to everyone and not just diehard core underground fans. This is why it is not called Famous, but Almost Famous.” Go considers all art to be important, placing DJing and live music in the same category. Not only does Almost Famous support musical arts, but also the visual. The walls are a showcase for local musician and artist Tim Curchod, whose pop art statements give the bar its unique look. The bar supports live music encompassing a wide range of genres. Although electronic and dance music are a staple,
rock acts are also featured regularly. Due to the restricting sound system of the venue, acoustic or soft rock are most suitable—popular local grunge band Unchained once even performed an unplugged set. When Unchained did their set, the mood and atmosphere was completely different from their usual hard rock shows as people sat down around the stage quietly watching, like young children in a classroom listening to a story; it is a venue where people, refreshingly, actually listen. As Go says, “Music is our number-one priority, period.” Almost Famous is located in the Kyungsung University district and can be easily reached by subway exit 1. It is located on the same street as HQ and the Vinyl Underground, closer to the main road. www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/almost-famous 2012 summer_ busanhaps.com 41
Hotel Directory & News
HOTEL GUIDE AND NEWS
LOOKING FOR A PLACE TO STAY WHEN VISITING BUSAN? FIND IT WITH THE HAPS HOTEL DIRECTORY, YOUR LOCAL ENGLISH GUIDE TO ACCOMODATION IN THE CITY. HAEUNDAE
THE WESTIN CHOSUN tel: 82-51-749-7000 web: www.starwoodhotels.com Do it right and crash in the same room George W. Bush did PARADISE HOTEL tel: 82-51-742 2121 web: www.paradisehotel.co.kr On the water; has a casino; an excellent spa and a pool. SEACLOUD HOTEL tel: 82-51-933-1000 web: www.seacloudhotel.com Luxury stay with great restaurants. Short walk to the beach. CENTUM HOTEL tel: 82-51-720-9000 web: www.centumhotel.co.kr Near Shinsegae and BEXCO. Good subway access. SUNSET HOTEL tel: 82-51-730-9900 web: www.sunsethotel.co.kr Seventy-two rooms with, according to the site, “individual design concepts” NOVOTEL AMBASSADOR tel: 82-51-743-1234 web: www.novotelbusan.com On the beach. Great ocean view, Murpii Nightclub. GRAND HOTEL tel: 82-51-740-0610 web: www.grandhotel.co.kr One of the cheaper spots on the strip, but still at the beach. HOTEL ILLUA tel: 82-51-744-1331 web: www.hotelillua.com Lovely hotel with stunning views from its perch on Dalmaji Hill. HANWHA RESORT tel: 82-1588-2299 web: www.hanwharesort.co.kr Beautiful views of Oryuk-do, the bridge and the bridg. Close to the beach. BUSINESS AND BEACH HOTEL tel: 82-51-742-3219 web: www.bnbhotel.co.kr Located in central Haeundae, with easy access to the local historical sites.
SEOMYEON LOTTE HOTEL tel: 82-51-810-1000 web: www.lottehotelbusan.com Lotte runs a tight ship and it shows in the generous customer service here. 42 HAPS_summer 2012
TOYOKO INN tel: 82-51-442-1045 web: www.toyoko-inn.com Across from Migliore, comfortable, clean and affordable. CROWN HOTEL tel: 82-51-635-1241 web: www.fnetravel.com/english/pusanhotels/crown.html Mid-range hotel decorated in Korean style, good for travellers.
GWANGANLLI HOMERS HOTEL tel: 82-51-750-8000 web: www.homershotel.com Right on Gwangalli Beach amidst the myriad of cafes, bars and restaurants. AQUA PALACE tel: 82-51-756-0202 web: www.aquapalace.co.kr Beautiful view of the Diamond Bridge, right in the middle of the beach.
JUNG-GU COMMODORE HOTEL tel: 82-51-461-9703 web: www.commodore.co.kr Beautifully designed traditional hotel. Close proximity to Busan Station. BUSAN TOURIST HOTEL tel: 82-51-241-4301 web: www.pusanhotel.co.kr Conveniently located next to the train station. Good for a cheap night’s rest. TOYOKO INN tel: 82-51-442-1045 web: www.toyoko-inn.com Affordably priced hotel, clean and 10 minutes away from the train station. PHOENIX HOTEL tel: 82-51-245-8061 web: www.hotelphoenix.net Highly trained staff, close to Nampodong. Popular with Japanese tourists. ELYSEE HOTEL tel: 82-51-241-4008 web: www.elyseemotel.com Affordable hotel with good amenities. Close to Nampo-dong.
BUSAN STATION GUKJE HOTEL tel: 82-51-642-1330 web: www.hotelkukje.com About 3 km away from the train station, close to Citizen’s Hall. TOYOKO INN tel: 82-51-442-1045 web: www.toyoko-inn.com
The second location, this one is a minute away from the train station.
OTHER AREAS PARAGON HOTEL [Sasang-gu] tel: 82-51-328-2001 web: www.hotelparagon.com Business comfort, with close proximity to Gimhae International Airport. BUSAN CENTRAL HOTEL [Yeonsan-dong] tel: 82-51- 866-6225 web: www.centralhotel.co.kr Adjacent to Yeonsan rotary, located 10 minutes away from City Hall. HOTEL NONG SHIM [Oncheonjeong] tel: 82-51-550-2100 web: www.hotelnongshim.com Great area around the hotel. Head north to PNU for original Busan nightlife.
BUDGET BUSAN YOUTH HOSTEL ARPINA [Haeundae] tel: 82-51-731-9800 web: www.arpina.co.kr Opened in 2004, a cheap place to stay for the night. Culture center inside. GOODSTAY THE PLANET GUESTHOUSE [Haeundae] tel: 010-2780-6350 web: www.earthlinghome.com Women-only dormitory across from Haeundae Beach in the Crystal Beach Off INDY HOUSE [Kyungsung Uni] tel: 82-70-8615-6442 Super cheap, dorm-style room right in the heart of Kyungsung. MARUB GUEST HOUSE [Haeundae] tel: 010-6322-3194 web: www.marubee.com Well-placed near restaurants, commercial area in Haeundae. POBI GUEST HOUSE [Haeundae] tel: 051-746-7990 web: www.guesthousekoreabusan.com Renovated guest houses three minutes from Haeundae Beach.w SUM GUEST HOUSE tel: 070-8837-0700 web: www.sumhostel.com Renovated in 2011, they guarantee guests a pleasant stay whether in Busan for business or pleasure. HELLO GUEST HOUSE [Haeundae] tel: 051-746-8590 web: www.facebook.com/helloguesthousehello Friendly, clean and cozy atmosphere. Outdoor patio for your enjoyment.
HI KOREA HOSTEL tel: 070-4409-3132 web: www.hikoreahostel.com email: hikoreahostel@gmail.com Your home away from home, Hi Korea Hostel offers you an affordable and comfortable accommodation just a stone’s throw away from Haeundae Beach. After a busy day sightseeing or at the beach, kick back and relax, and make yourself comfortable with our free WiFi, breakfast and top-notch multilingual service.
Accomodation Guide
SEACLOUD HOTEL 287 Haeundaehaebyun-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan tel: 051-933-1000 web: www.seacloudhotel.com
Seacloud guests can take advantage of a discounted price to learn kayaking at the Haeundae Yachting Center this summer. The two-hour course will set you back 25,000 won for a single, or 40,000 won for tandem with the package, including kayak rental, paddles, life jacket and safety training, free pick up in the Haeundae area and four courses, offered daily.
NOVOTEL AMBASSADOR 1405-16 Jung-dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan tel: 051-746-8481 web: www.novotelbusan.com
The ultra-stylish Le Bouchon is the newest addition to the Novotel Ambassador, as the first level basement bar opened up for business in mid-July. The bar is split into three sections—VIP, a bar area and 32 tables—which are each perfect to dine comfortably or imbibe in a classic cocktail in an ultra-chic atmosphere. Operating hours are from 5 p.m. to 2 a.m. daily.
GRAND HOTEL
HOMERS HOTEL
LOTTE HOTEL
The buffet restaurant Tiffany in the Grand Hotel has a special 1+1 Max beer event, where you will receive a second beer free with the purchase of a regularly priced draft beer. It’s a little steep at 8,000 won, which also doesn’t include a 10 percent tax and 10 percent service charge.
Homers Hotel has plenty of options for the adventurer looking to try their hand at outdoor sports. Trekking, city and yacht tours are available, as is a 20 percent discount for guests at Lespos Center, where you can enjoy an afternoon of water sports on Gwangalli Beach.
Cool down this summer with a special twist on naengmyeon at the Chinese restaurant Toh Lim on the 43rd floor of Seomyeon’s Lotte Hotel. The promotion runs until September 10 and costs 18,000 won for one or 32,000 for two. Open 12 p.m. - 3 p.m. and 6 p.m. - 10 p.m.
651-2, U Dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan tel: 051-740-0610 web: www.grandhotel.com
193-1 Gwangan 2-dong, Suyoung-gu, Busan tel: 051-750-8000 web: www.homershotel.com
772 Gayadae-ro, Jin-gu, Busan tel: 051-810-1000 web: www.lottehotelbusan.com
WESTIN CHOSUN 67, Dongbaek-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan tel:.051-749-7000 web: www.westinchosun.co.kr
Irish bar O’Kims offers special packages for those looking for a luxurious alternative for an after wedding party. Beer, whisky and champagne specials are available, and though they will cost you a pretty penny, their ambiance and views are tough to beat in Busan to make your special day unforgettable.
PARADISE HOTEL
1408-5, Jung Dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan tel: 051-742-2121 web: www.paradisehotel.co.kr
With six restaurants and three bars, the Paradise Hotel has exquisite dining options that are renowned for their quality and service. The orange martini at the Crystal Garden bar is a summer favorite, but will only last until the end of August. 2012 summer_ busanhaps.com 43
Nightlife & Dining Directory
GWANGALLI BEACH BIKINI [Lounge/Beer Bar] Spacious club with dancing and such. BEACHED CAFE AND SPORTS BAR [Kiwi Sports Bar] open: 6pm - late tel: 051-924-9662 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ beached-cafe-sports-bar Recently renovated, this Kiwi-run sports bar has gained a huge expat following in the first year of existence for its spectacular bridge view, delicious menu and its wide array of Kiwi beer, the only place in the city to boast such a claim. Rugby is the sport of choice on the TV for the punters. BELLA CITTA [Italian] tel: 051-711-0010 web: www.busanhaps.com/food/bellacitta-italian Italian restaurant with an incredible interior, top notch menu and indoor garden seating. BURGER AND PASTA [International] Open: 11am - 12am tel: 051-751-6631 web: www.busanhaps.com/food/burgerand-pasta-gwangan The second of the Burger and Pasta shops around the city, this international eatery offers a great view of the bridge while you enjoy your day on the sand. Burgers, pasta and brunch are on the menu in the stylishly decorated restaurant in the middle of the main drag of Gwanganli Beach. CLUB 3F [Dance/High End Nightclub] Dance club looking out over the water. Elegant. FOUR SEASONS [Raw Fish Korean] English speaking owner, 2nd fl. Fish Market. FUZZY NAVEL [Mexican/Lounge Bar] On the beach. Usually packed. Good Mexican food. GINZA [Japanese] tel: 051-751-7077 Pricey, but good quality food. GUESS WHO RESTAURANT [International] tel: 051-757-1213 Always busy with a nice patio deck. PARIS CAFE [International] Half coffee shop, half bar. Food is good too. PASTA E VINO [Italian] tel: 051-746-2500 Intimate beachside spot with good Italian cuisine. SAIGON PHO [Vietnamese] tel: 051-755-4205 Has been serving up Phở, the Vietnamese noodle soup since 1997. One of the few non-chain Vietnamese spots in 44 HAPS_summer 2012
town. Look for the big yellow sign, across the street from the Starbucks. SHARKY’S [American Sports Bar] open: 6pm weekdays, 2pm weekends tel: 010-4038-2907 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ sharkys-bar Sharky’s brought “California cool” to Gwangalli this summer, as the newest Sharky’s opened to great reviews and a killer view of the bridge. Indulge in their ever-expanding menu while enjoying a cocktail in a cool, comfortable environment. Great deals on dinner specials nightly, and they have the best shuffleboard table in town. SHIM HAE RAW FISH MARKET [Korean] tel: 051-753-6868 Everything seafood, all in one place THURSDAY PARTY [Korean/Expat Bar] open: 6pm - late web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ thursday-party A summer staple on Gwanganlli Beach for the past couple of summers, Thursday Party has two locations situated next to each other on the east side of the beach. Both bars are similar to the Thursday Party city-wide theme, and offer a variety of American style pub grub to tempt your palate. WA BAR [Beer Bar] Wide selection of beer laid out for your choosing.
HAEUNDAE AN GA [Korean] tel: 051-742-7852 Very popular bbq meat restaurant in Haeundae. TBR TAP AND TAPAS tel: 051-808-1027 A great new spot with excellent food in Haeundae. BILLIE JEAN [Lounge/Live Music] tel: 051-742-0297 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ billiejean A Haps favorite. Great decor. Ladies drink for free Thursday nights. BURGER AND PASTA [International] open: 11am - 2am web: www.busanhaps.com/food/burgerand-pasta-haeundae Recently opened, this Western/ Korean fusion style restaurant has been packing them in since day one. Burgers, pasta and brunch are on the menu in the stylishly decorated restaurant, where you can also imbibe yourself to a glass of wine, a cocktail or beer after your day on the beach. CHEOLMA HANWOO BULGOGI [Korean] tel: 051-709-4000 Bulgogi done at its best.
CINE DE CHEF [Italian] tel: 051-745-2880 In Shinsegae, enjoy a good meal and a movie. CLUB ELUNE [Nightclub] Busan’s super club. A must see at least once. EL OLIVE [Italian] tel: 051-752-7300 Delicious Italian, close to Costco. FUZZY NAVEL [Mexican/Bar] tel: 051-746-6439 Usually packed on weekends. Good grub. GANGA [Indian] Expect to pay some good money, but it’s worth it. GECKOS [Pub] Beach front bar. Consistently good food. GEN SUSHI [Japanese] tel: 051-740-6630 Affordable sushi. Good stuff. HELLO THAI [Thai] tel: 051-731-5033 Good Thai food in the heart of Haeundae. HQ JANGSAN [American Sports Bar] Great bar to get your drink on with some wings. LOVING HUT [Vegetarian] tel: 051-747-2979 web: www.lovinghut.co.kr All organic, all good. Veggie paradise. MAKTUM [Nightclub] If Elune is packed, head to Maktum. MARIS [Buffet] tel: 051-704-8870 Great seafood buffet. Across from Primus in Jangsan. MIAMI 88 [Lounge Bar] On the beach. Patio and good service. MURPII [Nightclub] In the Novotel. Dancing, drinking, business class. NAMASTE [Indian] tel: 051-746-1946 Indian fine dining. Good prices and great food. PHO KIM [Vietnamese] tel: 051-740-4868 Good food at a good price. Great soup, located in SFUNZ. ROCK N’ ROLL HOUSE [Casual Lounge] Great atmosphere. Two pool tables, great view. SHARKY’S [American Sports Bar] open: 6pm weekdays, 2pm weekends tel: 010-4038-2907 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ sharkys-bar This San Diego-inspired bar has become a fixture of the Haeundae Beach crowd renowned for its spectacular food and service. International comfort food is masterfully prepared by their chefs in a comfort-
able and unpretentious atmosphere. Located just a stone’s throw away from the beach on the second floor of the Pale de CZ. STARFACE [International Pub] tel: 051-742-0600 open: 6pm - late web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ starface This rustic British pub has been a mainstay on Dalmaji Hill for years. The enticing international menu offers British, Indian and Mexican fare, making this a quality place to get a bite as well as indulge in some darts or pool. Live music weekends add to the party, and offer a happy hour from 6:30 - 9 pm Sunday through Thursday. SUNTORY [Japanese] Food and drink in a classy setting. Bonzai! T.G.I. FRIDAY’S [Chain] tel: 051-740-6531 Good reliable chain in the Harbor Town Building. THE WOLFHOUND PUB [Irish Pub] tel: 051-746-7940 open: 6pm - 2am weekdays, 11am - 2am weekends web: www.wolfhoundpub.com No city in the world would be complete without an Irish pub, and the Wolf is Busan’s homage to Dublin. Wooden table seating with subtle lighting make this pub a relaxed place to grab a drink, watch some rugby and grab some sumptuous international cuisine. The “No Bullshit Pour” policy is a good indicator for the strength of their drinks. THURSDAY PARTY [Korean/Expat Bar] tel: 051-744-6621 open: 6pm - late web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ thursday-party A staple of the Busan landscape, Thursday Party Haeundae offers a casual, yet comfortable option after a day at the beach. With a patio for outdoor sitting, this open-aired spacious pub brings the usual quality service the locals and expats have come to expect from the Thursday Party empire. U2 BAR [Lounge] Caters more to the Korean crowd these days, but still good to lounge out. VAN GOGH TERRACE [Italian] tel: 051-741-3767 Nice view of the water while you eat.
KYUNGSUNG ALMOST FAMOUS [Dance/Techno] Funky atmosphere, great staff, live music. AUSSIE BURGER [International] Burgers, fries and Aussie pies.
Dining & Food AYUTA [Indian] Friendly staff, good food. BEIJING GO-CHI [Chinese] Great skewers, great food, cheap prices. BLUE MONKEY [Dance/Hip Hop] tel. 051-611-2888 open: 7pm to late web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ blue-monkey With its illuminative and decorative style, Blue Monkey has impressive DJ sets on the weekend, and doubles as more of a lounge-style chill vibe during the weekdays. With an impressive menu and a booming sound system, ladies can also drink half price from 7 - 9 p.m. BON BON [Italian] tel: 051-621-0906 Great little spot next to Kyungsung U. BURGER AND PASTA [International] tel: 051-625-6651 open: 11am - 11pm web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ burger-pasta With three locations around Busan, Burger and Pasta offer solid menu, and reasonable prices that make them a hit with young Koreans and expats. Set in the traditional Thursday Party wooden decor, they offer pasta, burgers and a brunch with a small patio to enjoy the street catwalk on sunny days. CAFE RADIO [Cafe] Great atmosphere. Relax with a book. CLUB FABRIC [Rock/Event] Live music, warm cozy decor. DUGOUT [Sports Bar] Home of Lotte Giants games. EVAS [International/Lounge] Been around awhile, and still packs them in.
FULLY BOOKED [Cafe/Bar] open: Tues-Thurs 7 - 12am, Fri 7 - 1am Sat 2 - 2am, Sun 2 - 12am tel. 070-8170-9628 web: www.busanhaps.com/fullybooked We are Busan’s first boutique bar run by expats. We serve great beer and wine at reasonable prices. We also serve 3 kinds of fresh panini: Caprese, Chicken Pesto, and AppleSausage. Furthermore, we provide a non-smoking environment for you to
peruse our used-books or enjoy one of our many board games. GRAZIOSO [Italian] Dirt cheap Italian located in the Spark Building. HQ BAR [American/Sports Bar] tel. 010-2857-2367 Where the real mean go to drink and BS. KINO EYE [Dance Club] Dark atmosphere. Live music on occasion. LONG. T BAR [Lounge Bar] Large bar with cheap Long Island’s. Pool table and darts. MONK’S JAZZ CLUB [Jazz Club] Busan’s only jazz club. Tuesday nights are hot. NI HAO CHINESE [Chinese] Good Chinese at affordable prices. O’TACO [Mexican] tel: 051-627-8358 Good Mexican food and lunch specials. OL’ 55 [Live Music/Event] tel: 051-627-5645 open: 7pm - late web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ ol’55 Ol’55 is located in the heart of Kyungsung University and is noted for its Open Mic Wednesdays, which are known to host the best Korean and expat musicians in town. The atmosphere is cool, there is free pool and a pay dart machine, and Sunday nights host an expat trivia. PAINTED CHAIR CAFE [Cafe/Gallery] The art, the atmosphere. Good place to chill. SHABANA [Indian] tel: 051-621-4821 Good, affordable Indian food. THE SUSHI [Japanese] tel: 051-611-4043 Affordable, quality Japanese food. THURSDAY PARTY [Korean/Expat Bar] open: 6pm - late web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ thursday-party2 With ten Thursday Party’s around the city, it has become a staple for the young, hip Korean university crowd and expats alike. Beer pong, sports on TV and the free curry popcorn or salted spaghetti sticks are always in play, as is a busy crowd almost every evening of the week. VINYL UNDERGROUND [Nightclub/Event Bar] open: Weekends 8pm - late www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/vinyl Vinyl Underground is known as the spot for live music in the Kyungsung area. With over ten years of showcasing live music and DJ dance club weekends, owner Kim Dong-ha has established the “Yellow Banana
Bar” as one of the longest must visit watering holes around the area.
PNU CROSSROADS [Live Music/Pub] tel: 051-515-1181 open: 7pm-late web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ crossroads A small, but atmospheric watering hole in PNU, Crossroads has been a Busan institution amongst the expats for years. The subtly-lit second floor venue has a Happy Hour on offer every day from 7pm to 8pm on gin, vodka and rum mixes, and a Ladies Night Friday, for singles to meet other singles. FARMERS BURGERS [American/Korean Fusion] People rave about it. Nominated in Best Burger. GANESH [Indian] Small spot with good Indian fare on the menu. INTERPLAY [Live Music/Event] Live music, hit or miss if you catch on a good night. LOVING HUT [Vegetarian] www.lovinghut.co.kr tel: 051-518-0115 MOO MONK [Live Music] Can catch some great Korean indie bands here. PACO TACO [Mexican] open: 7pm - late, Closed Mondays The newest Mexican restaurant to hit the city, Paco Taco resides in Kebabistan’s old digs in the heart of PNU. Nightly specials add to the fun in Busan’s first tequila pub which serves up mojitos, green iguanas, margaritas, tacos, burritos, and tostadas amongst others. PHO [Vietnamese] Nice Vietnamese food in PNU. RED BOTTLE [Korean/Expat Bar] Good spot to get a drink, and play some darts. SHABANA [Indian] tel: 051-517-1947 Nice Indian food for cheap. SOULTRANE [Comedy/Event/Rock] tel: 051-515-1181 open: 7pm-late web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ soul-trane One of the oldest expat bars in the city, the once foreigner oriented Soultrane nonetheless draws a healthy mix of locals, expats and tourists. Happy Hours greet every evening from 8pm to 10pm, and it’s the bar of choice for local comedians every first Friday of the Month for the Ha Ha Hole.
THE BASEMENT [Korean/Expat Bar] web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ basement One of the most popular bars in the area. Always a great time, and anchors the PNU scene.
SEOMYEON BUFFALO CHICKEN [Chicken] tel: 051-805-3512 Good chicken chain with several interesting sauces. BUONA OVEN PIZZA [Italian] tel: 051-904-8239 Nice, oven-baked pizza and spaghetti. CLUB FIX [Nightclub] tel: 051-905-5777 web: www.clubfixkorea.info New super club. International DJs and dress code required. DIVISION 9 [Lounge] Pinball, darts, basketball, drinking and good fun. DRAGON DREAM (THE CAVE BAR) [Korean] tel: 051-646-5924 Very interesting decor with a nice selection of food. FLORIAN’S [Italian] Buffet with a wide selection of dishes. FOXY DANCE [Club] Dance club, usually packed on the weekend. FRESH FRIES FACTORY [International] Some good fish n’ chips and other tasty foods. FUZZY NAVEL [Mexican/Bar] Similar to the others around the city. Good food. JUDIE NINE BRAU [Brew Pub] Good place for home-brewed beer. LOVING HUT [Vegetarian] tel: 051-808-7718 www.lovinghut.co.kr METAL CITY [Rock/Live Music] Pool, darts and live music. ROCK N’ ROLL BAR [Rock] A true dive. Good atmosphere and pool and darts. T.G.I. FRIDAY’S [Chain] tel: 051-805-3164 Two locations in Seomyeon to choose from. THE SPOT [Lounge/Bottle Service] Bottle service, recently under renovations.
NIGHTLIFE & DINING DIRECTORY CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGE.
2012 summer_ busanhaps.com 45
Services Directory NIGHTLIFE & DINING DIRECTORY CONTINUED THURSDAY PARTY [Korean/Expat Bar] tel: 051-818-6621 open: 6pm - late web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ thursday-party-1 You can expect more of the same from the Seomyeon Thursday Party, which caters to a young, eclectic mix of Koreans and expats. Nestled amongst a slew of bars and restaurants behind Judie’s Taewha, Thursday Party stands out for their unique charm, quality service and hip atmosphere amongst the Korean cool. VITO [Italian] tel: 051-806-5868 Open: Early for lunch, late for dinner web: www.busanhaps.com/food/vito Fashioned in the tradition of the small Italian trattoria, Vito brings back a taste of the old country. While the exquisite food is served in an elegant surrounding, this eatery is tucked away in the back streets of Seomyeon, though its reputation for quality ingredients, reasonable prices and attentive service are far from a secret.
NAMPO ARUN THAI [Thai] tel: 051-908-9085 Open: 11a.m. - 10 p.m. web: www.facebook.com/arunthai.kr The chefs at Arun Thai bring you succulently prepared authentic Thai dishes at very reasonable rates. This delightful restaurant, nestled on the second floor some 50m in the back alleyway next to KFC, is a great meeting place, whether for a light lunch or large-scale dinner in a stylish environment with friendly service.
SERVICES DIRECTORY AIRLINES AIR BUSAN tel: 051-974-8686 web: www.busanair.com ASIANA AIRLINES - DOMESTIC tel: 051-972-4004 web: www.flyasiana.com ASIANA AIRLINES - INTERNATIONAL tel: 051-971-2626 web: www.flyasiana.com CEBU PACIFIC AIR tel: 051-462-0686 web: www.cebupacificair.com JEJU AIR tel: 070-7420-1502 web: www.jejuair.net 46 HAPS_summer 2012
KOREAN AIR - INTERNATIONAL tel: 051-970-3227 web: www.koreanair.com LUFTHANSA AIR tel: 070-8686-2531 web: www.lufthansa.com TRANSASIA AIRWAYS tel: 051-463-0093 web: www.tna.com.tw
PNU LANGUAGE EDUCATION CENTER tel: 051-510-1983 web: www.ili.pusan.ac.kr email: bangjy77@pusan.ac.kr
TESOL TRAINING
BUSINESS ORGANIZATIONS AMCHAM #4501, Trade Tower 159-1, Samsungdong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul tel: 02-564-2040 web: www.amchamkorea.org An independent association of American and international businesses, the role of the American Chamber of Commerce is to promote business and trade between the United States and Korea. EUCCK Paradise Hotel (Main Bldg.), 1408-5 Jungdong, Haeundae-gu tel: 051-744-6711 web: www.eucck.org The European Chamber of Commerce aims to provide an effective network of business associates together with discussion forums and seminars on how to do business in Korea, as well as an array of social networking events.
KOTESOL Email: bgkotesol@gmail.com Facebook: Busan-Gyeongnam KOTESOL Chapter The Busan-Gyeongnam Chapter of KOTESOL is dedicated to promoting the development of teachers and teacher-trainers, both Koreans and foreigners, in the Gyeongnam province. Details for meetings can be acquired by contacting us either by email or via Facebook. We look forward to seeing you at our next meeting! TESOL ALLIANCE tel: 051-818-0502 web: www.tesolalliance.com
EDUCATION
INFORMATION
FOREIGN SCHOOLS
EXPAT ASSISTANCE
BUSAN FOREIGN SCHOOL 1366-3 Jwa-dong, Haeundae-gu tel: 051-747-7199 web: www.busanforeignschool.org BUSAN JAPANESE SCHOOL 173-8 Millak-dong, Suyoung-gu tel: 051-753-4166 web: user.chollian.net/~pusjpnsc BUSAN OVERSEAS CHINESE KINDERGARTEN 548-1 Choryang-dong, Dong-gu tel: 051-468-2845 web: kbces.com.ne.kr INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF BUSAN 798 Nae-ri, Gijang-eup, Gijang-gun tel: 051-742-3332 web: www.bifskorea.org
KOREAN LESSONS BUSAN FOUNDATION FOR INTERNATIONAL ACTIVITIES tel: 051-668-7900 web: www.bfia.or.kr email: busanglobalcenter@gmail.com KLIFF tel: 051-513-0131 web: www.kliff.co.kr email: jennakang@hanmail.net
CALL CENTER FOR FOREIGN RESIDENTS IN BUSAN tel: 1577-7716 FREE TRANSLATION SERVICE (BBB) tel: 1588-5644 MULTICULTURAL FAMILY SUPPORT CENTER tel: 1577-5432
INFORMATION CENTERS TOURIST INFORMATION SERVICE tel: 1330 BEXCO TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER tel: 051-740-7300 BUSAN GLOBAL CENTER tel: 1577-7716 BUSAN INT’L PASSENGER TERMINAL TOURIST INFORMATION tel: 051-465-3471 BUSAN STATION TOUR INFORMATION tel: 051-441-6565 GIMHAE INT’L AIRPORT TOUR INFORMATION (DOMESTIC) tel: 051-973-4607
GIMHAE INT’L AIRPORT TOUR INFORMATION (INTERNATIONAL) tel: 051-973-2800 HAEUNDAE TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER tel: 051-749-5700 INTERNATIONAL FERRY INFORMATION CENTER tel: 051-465-3471 NOPODONG BUS TERMINAL TOURIST INFORMATION tel: 051-508-9400 UN MEMORIAL CEMETERY TOURIST INFORMATION tel: 051-625-1608
MEDICAL HEALTH CENTERS DONGNAE HEALTH CENTER 702-54, Myeongryun-2 dong, Dongnae-gu tel:051-555-4000 HAEUNDAE HEALTH CENTER 1339, Jwa-2 dong, Haeundae-gu tel: 051-746-4000 JUNG-GU HEALTH CENTER 1 Ga 1, Daecheong-dong, Jung-gu tel: 051-600-4741
HERBAL CLINICS DONGEUI UNIVERSITY HOSPITAL 397-3, Bujeon-1 dong, Busanjin-gu tel: 051-803-5430 GOOD SAMSUN HANBANG 1162-2, Jurye-dong, Sasang-gu tel: 051-325-0300
HOSPITALS BUK-GU/DONGNAE BUMIN HOSPITAL 380-4, Deokcheon 1-dong tel: 051-330-3000 web: www.buminhos.co.kr DONG EUI MEDICAL CENTER San 45-1, Yangjeong 2-dong tel: 051-867-5101 web: www.demc.kr DONGNAE BONG SENG HOSPITAL 766, Anlak 1-dong tel: 051-531-6000 web: www.bongseng.com DONGRAE WOORIDUL HOSPITAL 205-10, Nakmin-dong tel: 051-559-5000 web: www.dongrae.wooridul.co.kr INJE UNIVERSITY BUSAN PAIK HOSPITAL 1435, Jwa-dong tel: 051-890-6114 web: www.paik.ac.kr
HAEUNDAE HYOSUNG CITY HOSPITAL 1094-2, Jaesong 1-dong tel: 051-709-3000 web: www.hshos.com INJE UNIV. HAEUNDAE PAIK HOSPITAL 1435, Jwa-dong tel: 051-797-0100 web: www.paik.ac.kr/Haeundae
JUNG-GU HAEYANG HOSPITAL 80-8 Jungang-dong 4-ga tel: 051-469-4456 web: www.haeyang.net MARYKNOLL MEDICAL CENTER 12, Daecheong-dong 4-ga tel: 051-465-8801 web: www.maryknoll.co.kr
NAM-GU BUSAN ST. MARY'S MEDICAL CENTER 538-41, Yongho 4-dong tel: 051-933-7114 web: www.bsm.or.kr
SEO-GU DONG-A UNIVERSITY MEDICAL CENTER 3-ga, #1 Dongdaeshin-dong tel: 051-240-2400 web: www.damc.or.kr PUSAN NATIONAL UNIVERSITY HOSPITAL 10, Ami-dong 1-ga tel: 051-254-0171 web: www.pnug.co.kr
SUYEONG BUSAN CENTUM HOSPITAL 1077-1, Gwangan 3-dong tel: 051-760-5000 web: www.centumhospital.com BUSAN HANNAH WOMAN'S HOSPITAL 304, Namcheon-dong tel: 051-625-2300 web: www.hannah4u.co.kr GOOD GANGAN HOSPITAL 40-1, 41-9, Namcheon-dong tel: 051-625-0900 web: www.gang-an.or.kr
MUSEUMS BUSAN MUSEUM OF ART 40, Apec-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan tel: 051-740-2602
web: www.art.busan.go.kr Opening Hours - 09:00 ~ 20:00 Closed - Jan. 1, Every First Monday Admission Fee - Free BUSAN MODERN HISTORY MUSEUM 104, Daechung-ro, Jung-gu, Busan tel: 051-253-3845 web: www.modern.busan.go.kr Opening Hours - 09:00 ~ 18:00 Closed - Jan.1, Every First Monday Admission Fee - Free BUSAN MUSEUM 63, UN Peace-ro, Nam-gu, Busan tel: 051-610-7111 web: www.museum.busan.go.kr Hours of operation - 09:00 ~ 20:00 Closed - Jan. 1, Every First Monday Admission fee - Free BUSAN UN MEMORIAL CEMETERY AND PARK 779, Daeyon 4 dong, Nam-gu, Busan tel: 051-625-0625 web: www.unmck.or.kr Hours of operation - 09:00 ~ 17:00 Open Year Round Admission fee - Free
RELIGIOUS SERVICES AL-FATIH MASJID MOSQUE Namsan-dong, #30-1 Guemjeong-gu tel: 051-518-9991 web: www.busanislam.or.kr Services: 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily GIFT MINISTRY Myung-nyun-dong, Dongnae-gu tel: 010-7999-8644 web: www.tinyurl.com/lifeisagift Services: Saturdays,10:30 a.m. HONGBEOPSA TEMPLE Dugu-dong, #1220-1, Guemjeong-gu tel: 010-8771-6265 HOSANNA CHURCH Myeongji-dong, #3245-5 Gangseo-gu, tel: 051-209-0191 web: www.him-busan.blogspot.com Services: Sundays, 12:30 p.m. INTERNATIONAL COMMUNITY CHURCH Minerva Hall, Pusan University of Foreign Studies tel: 010-8326-1985 web: www.iccbusan.org Services: Sundays, 10:30 a.m. NEW PHILADELPHIA CHURCH Gwangalli Beach - Holly’s Coffee Bldg 14th Floor Weekday Contact: (051) 932-6832 web: www.newphilly.cc Services: Sundays, 2:30 pm ONNURI ENGLISH SERVICE Jangsan, Haeundae-gu tel: 010-7570-9171 Services: Sundays, 10 a.m..
SHOPPING
EPIK TEACHERS IN BUSAN Facebook Group: Busan EPIK EXPAT SAILING CLUB Contact: Mark Chi email: Koreasailing@gmail.com web: www.busansailing.com FIELD HOCKEY Facebook Group: Field Hockey in South Korea LAOCHRA BUSAN GAELIC ATHLETIC ASSOCIATION CLUB Contact: Peter Bonner tel: 010-8344-1410 email: busangaa@gmail.com Facebook Group: Laochra Busan Members ROKD ROLLER DERBY koreaderby@gmail.com Facebook Group: ROKD Republic of Korea Derby SALSA DANCING web: www.busansalsa.blogspot.com SOCRATES CAFE Facebook Group: Busan Socrates Cafe
DEPT. STORES LOTTE DEPT. STORE www.lotteshopping.com Open: 10:30 ~ 20:00 FOUR LOCATIONS CENTUM CITY 1496, U Dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan tel: 051-730-2500 DONGNAE 502-3, Oncheonjeong, Dongnae-gu, Busan tel: 051-605-2500 GWANGBOK 20-1, 7 ga, Jung-ang Dong, Jung-gu, Busan tel: 051-678-2500 SEOMYEON Bujeondong, Busan-jingu, Busan tel: 051-810-2500 HYUNDAI DEPT. STORE 62-5, Beomil-dong, Dong-gu, Busan tel: 051-667-2233 Open: 10:30 ~ 20:00
ULTIMATE FRISBEE Facebook Group: BusanUltimate WORDZ ONLY Facebook Group: WordZ Only
SHINSEGAE DEPT. STORE (CENTUM CITY) 1495 Wu-dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan tel: 1588-1234 web: www.english.shinsegae.com Open: 10:30 ~ 20:00
CLOTHING/SPORTS KAI SURF SHOP 183-11 Gwangan-dong, Suyeong-gu tel: 051-753-2746
SOCIAL/NON-PROFIT ORGANIZATIONS
BUSAN BANDITS RUGBY Facebook Group: Busan Bandits BUSAN BEACH VOLLEYBALL Facebook Group: Busan Beach Volleyball BUSAN BOOK SWAP Facebook Group: Busan Book Swap BUSAN BOWLING LEAGUE Contact: David Alderman tel:010.7919.1223 Facebook Group: Busan Bowling League BUSAN FOUNDATION FOR INTERNATIONAL ACTIVITIES tel: 051-668-7900 web: www.bfia.or.kr BUSAN FRIENDSHIP GROUP www.meetup.com/Pusans BUSAN SCUBA Facebook Group: Busan Scuba BTC FOOTBALL FB Group: Busan Transportation Corporation Supporters Fanpage
GET SCUBA CERTIFIED IN BUSAN! Sea World Dive Center is a friendly & professional PADI CERTIFIED SCUBA center based right here in Busan. We offer a wide selection of courses for both the beginner and the pro in both English and Korean. Along with a great selection of the latest equipment, we also book national and international dive tours for dive enthusiasts. Contact us today for more info!
2012 summer_ busanhaps.com 47
6
BMW 02 Dealership 02
03
02 SFUNZ
03 04 03
04
Shopping
Save Zone Dept. Store
02
B ae nd eu Ha
dae B e Haeun
d 05 Roa nam u G Sea Cloud Hotel
d oa hR eac
ach
01
Novotel Hotel
04
06
oad
Dawn Beach Hotel
mR
oad
hR
Gw ang
ad
an B
Ro
eac
ach
Be
Gw ang
dae
Park Hotel
02
09
Bar/Pub/Lounge
on
Sub 03 way Stn .
03
Cafe
Shopping Bar/Pub/Lounge
che
Restaurant
11
10
am
Restaurant Cafe
06
SEOMYEON
[PUSAN NATIONAL UNIVERSITY] 01
04
Dongcheon Road
07
08 12
02
PNU Main Gate
05
Pusan National Uni. Road
4 2 13
3
03
Kayodae Road
ad Geumjeong Ro
.
Bar/Pub/Lounge
PNU Subway Stn
Business
01
7
9
3
1
1
5
11
01
01 02
Lotte Dept. Store
Restaurant Cafe 46 48 HAPS_summer 2012
01
Tewha 03 Judy’s Dept. Store 01
01
Jungkangdae Road
Seomyeon Subway Stn.
04 03 02
02 04 03
6
15
02
02
8 10
Busan Bank
02
01
Sojeon Road
ong Roa
06
Geumje
Good Plus
d
05
Dongcheon Road
02
04
03
Jungang Middle School
Migliore Fashion Mall
Sojeon Road
PNU
03
To N
2
08
Club
Pale De Cz
05 02
02
-na
eun
Ha
Haeundae Beach
Paradise Hotel & Casino
05
03
01
Paradise Hotel Dept. Store
07
01 01
Toyota Dealership Haeundae City Hall
04
Homers Hotel
e ac hR o ad
Haeundae Aquarium
Lotte Hotel & Seven Luck Casino
Seomyeon Road
Cosmetic Surgery Street
d
Haeundae Tourist Office
01
Gw ang an B
3 1
Haeundae 01 Bus Depot
mR oad
Gu
d
Roa
n.
Gw ang -na
01
m -na
ubw ay S t
Aqua Palace Hotel oad in R Ma
01
2
an S
ae und
ch Roa
ae Bea
Harbour Town
GWANGAN
Hae
Haeund
5
To G wan g
2
HAEUNDAE
Haeundae Subway & Train Stn
4
Business Club Bar/Pub/Lounge Restaurant Cafe
05
KYUNGSUNG
12
Bukyung University
g eon S uy
01
Ro a
Car Park
d
Perugio Apartments
04
02 2
13
04
03
1
08
01
03
06
07
Century 21 Building 3
4
11
Yongsu Road
01
02
10
09
05
oad
su R
g Yon
02
5 6
Kyungsung University
04 03
ad
g Ro
eon Suy
Bar/Pub/Lounge
McDonalds
CGV
Restaurant Cafe
GS Gas Station
LEGEND
02 Beach Bikini 03 Thursday Party Business 04 Fuzzy Navel 05 Beached Club 06 Sharky’s Bar/Pub/Lounge RESTAURANTS 01 Burger n’ Pasta Restaurant 02 Bella Citta 03 Blue Saigon Cafe CAFES 01 Tom n’ Toms HAEUNDAE 02 Twosome Place CLUBS 03 Starbucks 01 Murphii BUSINESS 02 Elune 01 Kai Surf Shop 03 Maktum BARS/PUBS/ PNU LOUNGES 01 Thursday Party BARS/PUBS/ LOUNGES 02 Miami 88 01 Thirsty Moose 03 Wolfhound 02 Wa Bar 04 Rock n’ Roll 03 Basement 05 Fuzzy Navel 04 Crossroads 06 U2 04 Soultrane 07 Miami 88 II 05 Red Bottle 08 Sector 510 06 Interplay 09 Gecko’s 07 Moo Monk 10 Sharky’s 08 Bling 11 Billie Jean RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS 01 Won Chon 01 TGI Friday’s 01 Mad For Garlic 02 The Box 03 Tajmahal 01 Ganga 02 Hello Thai CAFES 03 Namaste 01 Angel-In-Us 04 Loving Hut 02 Charlie Brown 03 Twosome Place CAFES 01 Coffine Gurunaru 04 Starbucks 05 Coffee Bean & 02 Angel-In-Us Tea Leaf 03 Angel-In-Us 04 Starbucks SEOMYEON 05 Caffe Bene CLUBS 01 Fix GWANGAN 02 Foxy BARS/PUBS/ BARS/PUBS/ LOUNGES LOUNGES 01 Paris
01 Rock n’ Roll 02 Spot 03 Thursday Party 04 Fuzzy Navel 05 Metal City RESTAURANTS 01 Vito 02 TGI Friday’s CAFES 01 Angel-In-Us 02 Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf 03 Twosome Place 04 Tom n’ Toms BUSINESS 01 Kangs Dental 02 Apple Store KYUNGSUNG BARS/PUBS/ LOUNGES 01 Almost Famous 02 Club Realize 03 HQ 04 Blue Monkey 05 Eva’s 06 Dugout 07 Thursday Party 08 New Foxy 09 Vinyl Underground 10 Ol’55 11 Fabric 12 Fully Booked 13 Monk RESTAURANTS 01 O’Taco 02 Burger & Pasta 03 Outback 04 Okkudak CAFES 01 Starbucks 02 Tom n’ Toms 03 Angel-In-Us 04 Angel-In-Us
47 2012 summer_ busanhaps.com 49
BUSAN METRO MAP Humetro Call Center Lost & Found Center
50 HAPS_summer 2012
Seomyeon Stn.
Fresh Burger
Advertorial
FRESH BURGER WITH EXTRA OPTIONS BY KENDALL MAIZE
In the sea of homogeneous burger joints serving the same overpriced burgers, it is refreshing to find one that knows exactly what the customer wants: options. Fresh Burger has opened a new location in Jangsan and their menu is made to please. The varieties of burgers available will make your taste buds stand up and shout, “Finally!” Their burger selection starts with the traditional burger and steadily climbs up the burger ladder, adding cheese, spicy sauces, bacon and mushrooms. From there, the menu shifts into specialty burgers, teriyaki, bacon and egg, chicken, even a fish burger. And if you’re still not satisfied, try one of their hefty double-double burgers. If the only decision you had to make was what burger you were going to order you’d be there for a while—but Fresh Burger doesn’t stop there. They want to give you options. Enter the ciabattas. Ciabatta rolls filled with your choice of chili chicken or cheese bacon; for brunch you can sample one of their breakfast sandwiches, also served on ciabatta. Then come the hot dogs, with your choice of chili or plain. Final-
ly, to help you round out your meal, there are sides, salads, wedges, chili wedges, beautifully battered onion rings or oriental lotus chips (a seasonal item). Order one of the countless beverages, perhaps a freshly squeezed lemonade, and have a seat. Fresh Burger is comfortable; it has the feel of a neighborhood cafe. Spacious seating and homey decorations add to the ambiance without overwhelming it. Just past the counter is another example of how it is different from other burger joints: a condiments area is outfitted with little glass bowls and an array of sauces for your dipping pleasure. They have ketchup, mustard, hot sauces and chili sauces. And if there’s anything else you need, don’t hesitate to ask the staff: they’re friendly and accommodating. From Jangsan subway exit number 4, walk straight about 100m to Chwadong-ro where you will see a GS25 and the Sun Hill Golf Academy. Turn right and cross the street, and you will see it on the left. 051-989-4311 Open Mon - Sat 11 a.m. to 11 p.m., Sunday 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Sojunghannun Opthalmology Clinic
Advertorial
INSIGHT INTO YOUR EYE SIGHT
WITH A CLIENT LIST RANGING FROM FORMER PRESIDENTS TO PEOPLE JUST LIKE YOU, DR. KIM SEUNG-GI IS LITERALLY A MAN OF VISION. When sitting on the sofa in Dr. Kim Seung-gi’s lush Haeundae eye-clinic, surfing the web on one of the five Macs available for customers in the lobby, one can’t help but wonder what the text and images on the screen will look like post-procedure when there will no longer be a need for glasses. When it comes to eye surgery, laser vision correction can be carried out in two different ways: LASIK or LASEK. LASIK is by far the more popular option, with approximately 90 percent of candidates opting for this method. The residual 10 percent either opt, or are advised, to undergo a LASEK process. Visual outcomes are typically excellent with either procedure, and do not vary based on which of the two the patient opts for. The primary difference between the two options is the location at which treatment takes place. With LASIK, a flap is created in the outer window of the eye known as the cornea, the flap is lifted, the laser is applied to the inner layers of the cornea, and the flap is replaced. In contrast, with LASEK, the laser is applied to the surface of the cornea to correct the prescription. As a result, those with thinner corneas are typically advised to undergo LASEK. Other patients for whom LASEK is often recommended include those with irregular corneal shape. For anyone looking to undergo the procedure in Busan, Dr. Kim Seung-gi of the Sojunghannun Ophthalmology Clinic 52 HAPS_summer 2012
in Centum City has over 22 years of hands-on experience dealing with thousands of patients each year who opt to undergo the process. Kim comes highly recommended— from 1996 to 1997, he was the personal eye doctor for Korean presidents Kim Young-sam and Nobel Laureate Kim Dae-jung at Cheongwadae, the Blue House in Korea. Having graduated from Korea University with an M.D. in Ophthalmology, he also boasts multiple memberships to local and overseas clubs and charities and attended Georgetown University in the US for further study on advanced eye procedures. So why choose Sojunghannun? It’s simple: according to Kim, their trained staff of professionals take care of your every need, including driving you home, and provide the safest and best care for your eyes. They are, as he says, “the most important part of your body.” Sojunghannun Eye Clinic has plenty of options for the priceconscious customer to the latest in technology IFS+ and Amaris 750S, which are the only machines of their kind in the city. Prices generally range 50 percent cheaper than the same surgery in the US and one-third of the price in Japan. The clinic is also ISO 9001 and 14001 approved. For a consultation in English, you can contact the clinic at 051920-7788. They can be found on the 14th floor in the Imperial Tower in Centum City across from Shinsegae Department Store.
Diverse Horizons
Advertorial
EXPANDING YOUR HORIZONS Tony Marshall has always wanted to find a way to work with many different people from many walks of life. After living in South Korea for two years and working in a hagwon, he decided to expand its horizons, so to speak. He expanded his then-five-year-old business, a golf development company, into the global economy with telecommunications and healthy beverages. That’s how they got into the cell phone business. Diverse Horizons is an independent business partnered with numerous companies that want to help out foreigners (and natives) in Korea and 22 other countries. Their biggest service is helping foreigners get a cell phone in Korea; their reps are native English-speakers, once in the ESL shoes, so they know a thing or two about what life in Korea is like. Foreigners don’t need more complications when all they want is a good contract and reliable phone—that’s why their services are free, with no initial payment or deposit needed. They’re a direct seller of telecommunications, which makes them equivalent to phone shops throughout Korea that house all three telecommunication companies: KT, SK and LG U+.
Here’s how it works: Diverse Horizons offers an initial consultation with you, the potential customer, either in person or via phone/email at any time. Their inventory site is in Korean, so they provide you with simple and detailed instructions. After that, they send the application (via email) to you, who then fills out the application and faxes it to the number provided (you should be able to fax from your job). For foreigners in Korea, the first purchase requires you to fill out a hand written application along with a copy of your Korean visa card. The process is simple and easy. In addition, any purchases made in the future from a registered customer can be done directly from their website, diversehorizons.acndirect.com. (Click on the South Korean flag at the bottom of the page.) If you have any questions or want to keep in touch, check them out on Facebook (facebook.com/diversehorizons) or follow them on Twitter (@diversehorizons). Though if you have any questions, it would be better to just call them at 010-5169-1914, or email them at diversehorizons@hotmail.com. 2012 summer_ busanhaps.com 53
The Last Word
THARP ON: HEALTH CARE BY CHRIS THARP ILLUSTRATION BY SARAH ELMINSHAWI
T
he United States Supreme Court recently upheld the previous 34 combined. I go all the time. It’s become my favorthe Affordable Care Act—better known as “Obam- ite hobby. Sore throat? Hospital. Headache? Hospital. Argument acare”—in a 5-4 decision that had the whole country with fiancé? Hospital. on edge. I watched from afar, gnawing at my fingerI love the hospitals in Korea so much that I now look forward to nails here on the peninsula as I awaited the historic judgment. I getting sick. And the best part? The IV. Korean nurses stick an IV fully expected the conservative majority to strike down the law; in your arm at the slightest hint of a cold. How awesome is that? you can imagine my elation, along with countless others, when I just lie back on that rolling bed, click on my MP3 player and the court shocked the world by actually affirming the statute. watch the golden-hued goodness drip into my veins. Ahhhh… Despite its numerous and deep flaws, near-universal health Instant health in a magic bag. And it’s not just when I’m sick: care has finally arrived in America. It’s about frickin’ time. these days, if I’m really hungover, I go to the hospital, stagger in I consider this very good news—not just for the health of our the door and say, “I have a cold (cough, cough).” citizens and society as a whole, but because now, just maybe, Bam! IV time! Canadians will finally shut the hell up. Always with the health Korean medicine isn’t always such joy, however. Sometimes the care. After all, it is the most potent weapon in their arsenal. As an cultural divide transforms into a chasm that, no matter how much American, you don’t even have to be arguing with your Canadian effort is expelled, can never be breached. This happened to me friend for them to smugly bring it up. a few years back. I went through a American: Hey man, you wanna go I’VE SINCE BEEN TO HOSPI- very minor surgical procedure to grab a beer? remove a benign growth from my Canadian: Sounds great. But first I’m TAL MORE TIMES IN THE LAST back. The doctor told me not to gonna stop off at the hospital. drink for three weeks afterwards, SEVEN YEARS THAN THE American: What? Are you sick? which—let’s face it—only lasted PREVIOUS 34 COMBINED. I GO Canadian: Nah, I feel pretty good… about three days. As a result of my but I want to get checked out anyway. ALL THE TIME. IT’S BECOME inattentive attempt at convaleMaybe get a prescription for some scence, the wound took a very long MY FAVORITE HOBBY. SORE time to heal. This frustrated the poor Xanax. I’ll catch up with you later, eh? Like millions of other Yanks, I was unTHROAT? HOSPITAL. HEAD- doc, who, after about two weeks, insured for much of my adult life. This looked at gash on my back while sucked. Visiting the doctor was pretty ACHE? HOSPITAL. ARGUMENT shaking his head and sucking air much always off the menu. Short of a through his teeth, ajeosshi style. He WITH FIANCÉ? HOSPITAL. catastrophic injury, I was resigned to then faced me, locked eyes, and, in endure whatever malady I contracted in grim silence. And then halting English, said: “As you know, the white man heals much I came to Korea, where I was insured from the moment I stepped more slowly than the yellow man, because the white man has off the airplane. But even then I was hesitant to use it: after all, the weaker tissue.” isn’t health insurance just for emergencies? Not according to my Weaker tissue? What kind of racist stuff is that? Did he graduate students at the time. When observing me sniffle or cough during from the Josef Mengele School of Medicine? that first year, one would always ask: There he was, in a white frock, glasses, and tie—the very por“Teacher, you catch a cold?” trait of clinical competence—spouting half-baked theories “Uh, yeah.” straight out of the eugenics playbook. I had to pinch my own “Did you go to the hospital?” arm and remind myself where I was. I stormed out of his office, I’d just stare back, stupefied, and think: Really? The hospital? I shaking my fist and cursing the state of Korean health care. have a cold, not pancreatic cancer. And then I went to pay the bill. It was 3,000 won. I fought them for a while, but then began to take their advice; When I saw him the next day I was all handshakes and smiles. I’ve since been to hospital more times in the last seven years than Weaker tissue? Who knows? Maybe he was right. 54 HAPS_summer 2012
2012 summer_ busanhaps.com 55
www.7luck.com Tel. 051.665.6000
Busan Lotte Hotel 2F