Busan Haps Issue 15 by Haps Magazine

CONTENTS

On the Cover & this page: Every Single Day Photography: Jesse Lord

FEATURES

SPORT

The Boom are Back! | 34 Schedules | 34

REGULARS

PROFILE

Yonsei New York Dental Clinic | 35 Loving Hut | 38 Rock n’ Roll | 32

TRAVEL

Koh Chang: Where the Thai People Go | 28 Cebu: A Quick Getaway | 29

GUIDES Restaurant Guide | 42 Bar Guide | 45 Area Maps | 46 Busan Metro Map | 52

n case you didn’t know, or were not otherwise informed, there are four seasons in Korea, which most people here are quite proud of. And while I share a mutual admiration for this wonder of nature on the peninsula, I am a fan of only two: Spring and Fall. As it just so happens, the earth is presently positioning itself for the gradual cool down into autumn, while leading up to the eventual oppressive winter. My friends from the northern climes will call me a whiner, but my life was mostly spent in Florida and California, and from my perspective, four seasons offer little to rejoice over. Should you have an open line of communication to the Almighty, please pass along my complaints. As for the 15th issue of Haps, we have transitioned to a ‘cooler’ look, expanding layouts to give the magazine more visual appeal. To abuse the seasonal metaphor further, I suppose that means we have to be even cooler in the winter. Cheers to that. Have a great BIFF, and see you at the movies.

Translation:

Chris Tharp Thomas Bellmore Jen Sotham Brian Kilrain Heo-yeon Kim Tory Mock David Holt Jeff Liebsch Bobby McGill

Hye-Jeong Bae Heo-yeon Kim Photographers:

Mike Dixon Tamás Bujnovszky Jesse Lord Oh Min Guk Paek Sung Hyun Russell McConnell Interns:

Ju-young Moon Melinda Rubianto

SUBMISSIONS busanhaps@gmail.com

ADVERTISING mikey.busanhaps@gmail.com soo.busanhaps@gmail.com (한국어) Follow us @busanhaps Busan Haps Magazine Busan Haps October/November 2011 Issue 15 Business Registration Number: 00001 First Publication Date: Sept, 2, 2009 Address: Ocean Tower #1726, 760-3, Woo 1 Dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan, Republic of Korea 612-822

www.busanhaps.com Subscriptions: soo.busanhaps@gmail.com One Year/6 Issues 10,000 KRW 30% Donated to Women’s Shelters Disclaimer: The opinions in the magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher. Questions or comments: busanhaps@gmail.com ©2011 Busan Haps Magazine

CONTRIBUTORS www.busanhaps.com

HRegulars

1. Thomas Bellmore When he’s not busy parting the Red Sea, Thomas Bellmore is usually at home watching a movie, reading and writing on the Internet, or making a desperate attempt to be productive. He hails from Ontario, Canada, but has been living in Busan for the past four years with his super intelligent wife, Katerina.

2. Heo-yeon Kim Born and raised in Busan, Heo-yeon Kim majored in philosophy at Yonsei University and studied ethics at Yonsei Graduate School. She is happily married to her husband, a reporter, and is interested in traveling and current affairs.

3. Jen Sotham

1. 4.

Jen Sotham has been with Haps since issue one. She hails from New York and has lived in Busan since 2006. Her writing has appeared in magazines, guidebooks and anthologies, including Travelers’ Tales: Women’s Travel Writing 2008.

4. Chris Tharp Chris hails from Washington State and has lived in Busan for over six years. When not when banging on a guitar or screaming into a microphone, he likes to write. If you buy him a drink he’ll tell you all about the times he met Kurt Cobain, but you probably already know the story.

5. Brian Kilrain

08 | HAPS_october/november 2011

Brian Kilrain is from a small New England town you’ve never heard of. He spent all his 20s as a glorified carny and is now proud to call Busan home. He also is a big fan of tall jokes.

EVENTS

HRegulars

www.busanhaps.com/calendar

Prêt-à-Porter Busan

(2012 S/S 프레타포르테 부산 컬렉션) October 13-15 The newest collections in domestic and international haute couture for Spring/Summer 2012 are on display for three days at BEXCO. www.papbusan.org

Busan Global Gathering October 22 Naru Park is the host venue for the sixth Global Gathering, where over 30 countries from around the world display their culture and cuisine in one of the biggest expat gatherings in Busan. www.globalgathering.or.kr

G Star Global Gaming Exhibition (국제게임전시회 지스타 2011) November 10-13

South Korea’s biggest game trade show, the show has become an important international event for the gaming community, and for companies publishing interactive games for PC/online, mobile, video games console, arcade and game-related products. www.gstar.or.kr

2011 october/november_HAPS | 09

SHORT STUFF AMERICAN CITIZEN SERVICES IN BUSAN American citizen consular services are offered in Busan for two days each month. American citizens can apply for U.S. passports, additional visa pages in their current passports, Consular Reports of Birth Abroad, and Social Security cards. A consular officer will also offer notarial services and provide information regarding voting, federal benefits, and registration with the Embassy. The consular staff is also available to assist with emergencies involving U.S. citizens. You can check the events page on www.busanhaps.com to find out the counsular service days each month, which take place at the American Presence Post (APP), Lotte Gold Rose Building (also known as the Job Center Building), #1503, Yangjung-dong, Busanjin-gu, Room No. 612. Any questions about requirements should be e-mailed to seoul_acs@state.gov

부산에서 미국시민 영사업무 제공 미국시민 영사업무 서비스가 매달 이틀간 부산에 서 제공된다. 미국시민은 여권갱신, 여권 페이지 수 연장, 해외출생신고, 사회보장카드을 신청할 수 있다. 영사관 직원이 공증서비스와 투표, 연방 지원 및 대사관 등록업무도 도와준다. 이밖에 미 국시민에게 있을 위급상황도 협조한다. 영사업무 서비스 날짜는 www.busanhaps.com에서 확인 할 수 있다. 영사사무소(APP)는 부산진구 양정 동 150-3번지 롯데 골드 로즈 빌딩 (부산종합 고용지원센터) 612호이다. 기타 궁금한 사항은 seoul_acs@state.gov로 연락하면 된다.

FORMULA 1 RETURNS TO KOREA Current F1 season leader Sebastian Vettel of Germany leads a star-studded driver’s list to the second F1 Korean Grand Prix, alongside Ferrari’s Fernando Alonso, who looks to repeat last year’s inaugural race victory. Vettel, who drives for Red Bull-Renault, will be racing at The Korea International Circuit, in Yeongam, South Jeolla Province. The track is a 5.62 km Motorsport circuit which runs counter-clockwise, and the 1.2 kilometer straight lines allow racers to reach maximum speeds of 320 km/hr – providing a challenging race for drivers and a thrilling experience for spectators. The action takes place from October 14th through to the final at 3 p.m. on Sunday, the 16th. www.koreangp.kr

F1 경기 다시 한국에서 열린다 현 F1시즌 선두인 독일의 세바스찬 베텔이 제2회 F1 코리아 그랑프리에 지난 해 첫대회 우승을 다시 넘보는 페라리팀의 페르난도 알론소를 위시한 초호화 드 라이버들을 데려온다. 레드불-르노 소속의 베텔은 전남 영암의 코리아 인터내 셔널 서킷에서 레이싱을 펼친다. 영암의 트랙은 반시계방향으로 도는 5.62km 자동차경주 서킷으로 레이서들은 1.2km 직선 주로에서 최고 시속 320km까지 질주할 수 있다. 이 직선 구간 레이싱은 드라이버들에게는 위험하지만 관중에 겐 스릴을 안겨준다. 경주는 10월14일부터 열리고, 결승전은 16일 일요일 오 후 3시에 펼쳐진다. www.koreangp.kr 10 | HAPS_october/november 2011

GWANGAN-LI SKIES READY TO SHINE What started in 2005 as a conclusion to the APEC Summit, the Busan International Fireworks Festival is now in its seventh year of lighting up the skies above Busan. The festival has grown into an eight-day event at Gwangan-li Beach, kicking off with a Hallyu Star Concert and an international fashion show. Nightly concerts lead up to the first of the fireworks shows, which features a global fireworks competition on October 22nd. The main event takes place on the 29th at 8 p.m., when over 1 million spectators are dazzled by over 85,000 fireworks, as well as a state-of-the-art laser light spectacle illuminating the sky for 50 minutes, highlighted by the world's longest “Niagara Falls” display which spans the entire bridge. You can watch the event on TV, but if you go head out early — the best seats on the beach go quick! www.bff.or.kr

광안리 하늘을 불꽃으로 수놓는다 APEC정상회의 개최를 기념해 2005년부터 열린 부산세계불꽃 축제가 7주년을 맞아 부산의 하늘을 눈부시게 밝힌다. 행사 규모 가 커진 이번 불꽃축제는 한류스타 콘서트와 국제 패션쇼를 시작 으로 광안리해수욕장에서 8일간 펼쳐진다. 10월22일 해외불꽃 경연대회를 포함해, 매일밤 콘서트는 불꽃쇼로 막이 오른다.29 일 밤 8시에 열리는 메인 행사에서는 100만명이 넘는 관람객이 지켜보는 가운데, 8만5000여발의 불꽃이 터지고 50분간 레이저 가 밤하늘을 장엄하게 밝힌다. 이날 하이라이트는 광안대교 전구 간에서 불꽃이 쏟아지는 전세계에서 가장 긴 `나이아가라 폭포쇼 `다. 불꽃축제는 TV로도 볼 수 있지만, 일찍 서두르면 해변의 최 고 명당 자리를 앉을 수 있다. www.bff.or.kr

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FIVE QUESTIONS:

WOLF D.PRIX By Jeff Liebsch Photography by Tamás Bujnovszky

Co-founder of Coop Himmelb(l)au, Austrian native and world-renowned architect Wolf. D. Prix has designed some of the greatest works of architecture in the world. He’s the mastermind behind the new Busan Film Center. We gave him five questions. 12 | HAPS_october/november 2011

HFeature 1. In a recent interview with Home & Lifestyle, you called your youthful dream of creating a revolutionary form of architecture “nonsense.” You went on to say your designs are “polarizing.” Could you sum up your current vision of architecture and what you envision for the future of architectural design as a whole? Ten years ago, I had no idea how young architects should take a stand. The global architectural development was really global in terms of looking alike – all computer-generated. I mean that one couldn’t distinguish whether a given project was a museum, a train station or a shopping mall. But now, because of the upcoming social crisis, I would propose not to concentrate on computer-generated shapes anymore, but to show attitude in designing a new form of living.

AT THE CINEMA CENTER, THE 90 METER CANTILEVERING ROOF IS NOT ONLY PROTECTION ALONE, BUT A SPACESHAPING HORIZONTAL MEDIA SURFACE. 2. How did you come up with the original design for the Busan Cinema Center? What was your inspiration behind it? Was the design influenced by Korean architecture? The concept of the Cinema Center in Busan concentrates on the re-interpretation of the roof typology. In architecture history, the roof is always used as an element of protection. Only Le Corbusier and Niemeyer have changed the significance of a roof through their re-interpretation. We have addressed this re-interpretation of this typology for a long time now, and varied already in 1976 the theme of the baroque cupola. From the House with a Flying Roof project, to the Busan Cinema Center, the typology of the roof has been designed as a space-shaping element. At the Cinema Center, the 90 meter cantilevering roof is not only protection alone, but a space-shaping horizontal media surface.

3. How would you rate the design of the Cinema Center as opposed to other works you’ve done around the world? Do you plan on doing any more work in Korea? The next building to finish is always the most important one. It is a development of the roof of BMW Welt, but technically more sophisticated. The two surfaces which are tilted against each other create a dynamic media space. The architecture is the media and the media is the message. We would like to do more projects in Korea, but that is not ours to decide.

4. How has your style in design changed over the years? How have you grown as an architect since you founded the company? Now we have the possibility to realize what I have drawn as a young architect. For sure there are changes of form – not of content – but they are triggered by the ever growing experience. It will be an exciting future.

5. If you were approached by an architectural student and asked what are five “must see” buildings, what would they be? The Pyramides, the temples in Paestum, the Airbus 380, Frank Gehry’s Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao, Spain, and the Martin Luther Church by COOP HIMMELB(L)AU in Hainburg, Austria. 2011 october/november_HAPS | 13

HFeature

THE CINEMATIC

SOUND BY THOMAS BELLMORE PHOTOGRAPHY MIKE DIXON

A cross-cultural meeting of artistic minds; Seoul’s film industry meets Busan’s expat music scene. 16 BUSANHAPS_august/september 2011 14 | HAPS_october/november 2011

HFeature HFeature

Pictured Left: Chul Heo, Pictured Above: Jim Batcho, Violet Lea

eep within the heart of cinema is an understated language, transcribed by the moving image, and interpreted on an emotional level by the audience. What some people may not know is that virtually every country with a prominent film industry has seen a revolution; an era in filmmaking which brought about significant changes to the way movies are made. Putting all of this into context begs the question: What do we really know about the history of Korean cinema? Enter Korean filmmaker Chul Heo, along with co-director Chung Ji-young, and their documentary feature, Ari Ari the Korean Cinema. Their film is an insightful barrage of information; an ambitious documentary which attempts to encompass all of the emotions that are felt throughout the tumultuous periods of Korean cinema’s history. Ari Ari explores this through conversations with every significant and influential director imaginable. These conversations are candidly staged and shot, paced to accommodate each and every personality. This was no easy feat for director Chul, who collected his footage over a two-year period, with an initial working cut that clocked in at roughly six hours. “When I watch the film, I feel like there’s just so much information. With everything I have, it’s clear we need more room. So this is just the introduction to a journey...a road map of what’s to come,” Chul says, as he discusses how he plans to use his footage to create a series of films. When Chul explains that approximately 120 people were interviewed, with six months of editing done in post-production, it’s easy to see why he wants to branch out beyond a single film. Of course, what’s more fascinating are the people and stories that are accentuated by this labor of love. Pioneering Korean directors, like Im Kwon-taek, dominate the screen with their presence; when they speak, not a single word is wasted. Curiously, Chul entertains notions of free stylistic expression, which he trustingly places in the hands of his camera operators and various other collaborators. “When I’m working on films with anyone; people in charge of music, my editor, my camera operators, lighting...I tell them to feel free to experiment.” Chul’s freehanded approach also applies to the sound in the

film. The director had no qualms with entrusting the sound design and music supervision to his longtime friend and colleague, San Francisco native, Jim Batcho. Jim’s insights into Chul’s creative mindset provided him with the confidence to oversee crucial aspects of the soundtrack such as music supervision, sound design, editing, and mixing. Placing the multitude of sound duties in the hands of one man is not only unorthodox, but also extremely tasking for the person in charge. Needless to say, Batcho had his work cut out for him. With Jim’s creative guidance firmly in place, he was left to handpick musicians from Busan’s diverse and eclectic music scene to collaborate for directors Chul Heo and Chung Ji-young, who are based out of Seoul. This proved to be a profound and remarkable meeting of talented artists which is clearly defined in the soundtrack. It is through Jim’s intimate knowledge of Chul’s personality and tastes that Ari Ari found its music composer, Poko Lambro co-vocalist and songwriter Violet Lea. For the soundtrack, Violet was asked to compose her melodies which were prompted

“THIS IS JUST THE INTRODUCTION TO A JOURNEY...A ROAD MAP OF WHAT’S TO COME” by various emotional themes. This results in a soundtrack which lends itself to the rustic and earthy feel of the images, giving credence to Chul’s attempts at conveying the emotions that are felt throughout the journey. Lending their talents are many other notable musicians from Busan’s musical repertoire which include Gino Brann, who contributes two tracks, Michael Laveck who helped with some of the engineering and mastering and adds an original song of his own, and venerable Busan musician Gordon Bazsali Jr., who was approached for the important task of doing the critical string arrangements for Violet’s composition, which were performed by the Kyungsung University Student Orchestra. Anthony Garcia, Poko Lambro’s second vocalist and songwriter, generously allowed one of the band’s previously unreleased songs to be used in the film as well. The collective efforts of some of Busan’s most prolific musicians can be found in Ari Ari, the results of which are resoundingly cohesive.

Continued on page 41 2011 october/november_HAPS | 15

HMusic

LE CASTLE VANIA Two years on and the dance floor at Elune is still going strong. Much of the Haeundae super-club’s success is due to a steady dose of international talent moving the dance floor — a rarity here in our fair, fly-over city. Steve Aoki kicked off the summer, and DJ EdJotronic rounded it out nicely — both a testament to Elune’s commitment, when considering anyone they put up there would do well with the captive summer beach crowd. Heading into the fall, Elune is bringing in the skinny white boy from Atlanta, DJ Dylan Eiland – better known in the electro/house/pop universe as ‘Le Castle Vania’ — and he’ll spin late into the a.m. on October 15th. Eiland, 28, who now calls LA home, has had good international cred going since 2008. And while he hails from Atlanta, the music he produces, both spinning and on his own, is anything but Atlanta. He is unabashed from the very start in his intent to jettison the southern ‘Crunk sound’ and embraces the techno Euro scene. His moniker says it all; not many a man from the American south would change his name to ‘Le Castle Vania’ unless he was seriously inspired with a dose of the chrysalis. Following a swing through Singapore then Seoul, Eiland ends his four-day run through Asia in The Bu, before heading back to sunny LA. That is the one thing you can hate about him – otherwise, he is a solid musician who does very well at his craft. Once he’s gone, Elune will continue to draw from the well of international DJ talent. Over the next five weeks, there are three more visits by members of the airfare-4-star-hotel DJ set. Belgium’s DJ Neon kicks it off on November 12th, followed by Germany’s Sharam Jey on the 18th, warming it up for his fellow countryman D.I.M., who touches down on the sandy shores December 3rd. Dance on.

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Image courtesy of visualadhesive.com

2011 june/july_BUSANHAPS 19

HFashion

BEYOND DIRECTOR Higasi Hikaru PHOTOGRAPHER Paek Sung Hyun STYLIST Shin Dong Yeob HAIR & MAKE-UP Kim Min Jung MODEL Patricio Produced by Skulllism Korea, visit www.skulllism.com

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2011 august/september_BUSANHAPS 21

HFashion

22 BUSANHAPS_august/september BUSANHAPS_june/july 2011 2011 20 | HAPS_october/november 2011

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HFeature HFeature

GOING

BIG ON THE

SMALL SCREEN

BUSAN’S OWN, EVERY SINGLE DAY, HAS BEEN SURVIVING ON THE KOREAN INDIE SCENE FOR WELL OVER A DECADE. THEY EVEN MADE THE MOVE TO THE SMALL SCREEN, PENNING SOUNDTRACKS FOR TV. By Brian Kilrain Photography Jesse Lord & Oh Min Guk 2011 august/september_BUSANHAPS 25 2011 october/november_HAPS |23

HFeature hile K-Pop rules the roost here, Korea out, The Bright Side. Released in 2008, the record contained the is also home to a vibrant indie music popular single, “Lucky Day” — a song that would change everyscene. On any given night, it’s not unu- thing for the band. sual for the Hongdae District in Seoul Producers of the Korean drama Pasta liked the bands sound to have thirty different bands playing and added several tracks off The Bright Side to the soundtrack gigs. While Busan’s scene is not nearly for their show. as strong, it does hold the distinction Building on that, the band was invited back to the small screen of producing some of the more successful indie talent that have to produce the entire soundtrack for the drama, My Princess. made the migration to Seoul in search of fame and fortune. It’s nice to have TV royalties to help pay the bills, but the band The Busan-born trio, Every Single Day are members of the old went back to their studio roots and recorded the album Moment, guard in Korean indie music. They formed in 1997, and were part in July of this year. Unlike their previous releases, the sound is of Busan’s indie-rock migration to Seoul during the late 90’s that more polished and produced, but it deviates little from their popincluded Rainy Sun, Ann and Pia. rock Busan roots. Bassist and singer Moon Sung-nam, guitarist Jeong Jae-oo The opening track, “날개” (Wings), begins with a distant, thumpand drummer Kang Moon-chu did the Busan circuit until recording techno beat reminiscent of what you might hear on the street ing their first album Broken Street. Disk in hand, they headed to outside a Hongdae club. Almost immediately, the band kicks in Seoul and her six million more souls in 1999. with a groove not unlike Passion Pit or Phoenix’s, Wolfgang AmaThe Seoul scene was much different than things back home deus Phoenix. recalls Sung-nam. The sound, however, isn’t typi“In Seoul, it’s about business cal of most Korean rock. Hyoand connections to make your- IN SEOUL, IT’S ABOUT BUSINESS yung says that while ESD has reself known. In Busan, you don’t AND CONNECTIONS TO MAKE YOURmained loyal to their roots, many have to do that. You can just musicians coming into Seoul adbe a good musician and peo- SELF KNOWN. IN BUSAN, YOU DON’T just to the taste of the times. ple will hear you and know you. HAVE TO DO THAT. YOU CAN JUST “Most indie musicians want to That’s the hard part about living get on a label and become popuin Seoul as a musician. In Seoul, BE A GOOD MUSICIAN AND PEOPLE lar, so their style follows what’s you need good management, WILL HEAR YOU AND KNOW YOU. popular at the moment. These timing and luck, aside from just days, there aren’t that many indie THAT’S THE HARD PART ABOUT LIVgood music.” musicians that work with experiAnd they did make good mu- ING IN SEOUL AS A MUSICIAN. IN mental sounds because it’s not sic. popular within the mainstream.” Their first album is fun, poppy SEOUL, YOU NEED GOOD MANAGELyrically, Moment swings between pondering personal reand very easy to listen to. “Kiss,” MENT, TIMING AND LUCK, ASIDE lationships and celebrating the the opening track from Broken everyday living of life. In the Street, is a blissful example of FROM JUST GOOD MUSIC. track, “Dial,” Sung-nam sings relate 90’s pop-punk, offering up catchy guitar hooks, a hurried bassline and a melody that cajoles morsefully about a scrap piece of paper with a phone number found in his wallet after blacking out during a night of drinking. you into hitting ‘repeat.’ Jeong Jae-oo attributes that original style to Busan’s music The song was written to express the “emptiness of the instant scene at the time. “Our first album was made in the underground human relationships in modern society.” With “I’ve Got It”, the albums only song completely in English, music culture of Busan, so there was a lot of influence coming from there. It wasn’t Seoul’s mainstream. That’s when we de- the lyrics (I was faking. I was shaking. Now, I’m solid. I’ve got it. I’ve got it.) are an affirmation of joy and confidence after too much cided just to make the music we wanted to make.” There was a college indie cult scene in those days, with punk time spent worrying. When asked how much importance is placed on melody vs. lyrdrawing the largest crowds. To compete, the Busan groups united to help promote each other and book gigs. They dubbed ics in the songwriting process, Sung-nam said, “If music was a themselves the “갈매기공화국,” the Republic of Seagulls, after person, the melody would be the first impression and the lyrics would be the personality and thoughts of that person. When an Busan’s mascot bird. Despite banding together with other acts from Busan, the early audience listens to a song just once, the lyrics don’t matter as days playing Seoul tested the bands passion for making it on the much to them. The lyrics are more important to someone that much bigger scene. They were the very definition of ‘starving buys the CD and listens to it over and over again.” The album’s final track begins with the band snarling back and musicians.’ “Since we weren’t living with our families, we were poor and forth at each other in the Busan dialect — which is the source of had to get our own house and buy our own food. The Seoul art- pride for Busan and a source of ribbing from Seoul. Although it’s ists could just live with their families. So, in the beginning, we just an outtake of the band confirming with the recording engicouldn’t really have fun, we just had to survive,” remembers neer before playing, the razor-edge pronunciation, dripping with attitude, gives notice that they are still Busan bred. Sung-nam. But they know where their bread is buttered. Jae-oo laments how the indie music scene is tough on a lot of “If we hadn’t moved to Seoul, we probably couldn’t have kept non-Seoul acts trying to make it big. “I’ve seen many bands have bad experiences in Seoul, and two or three years later they just our band together and would probably have opened a music academy or raw fish restaurant, got married and had kids by leave and go back to their hometowns.” ESD endured, and after a Spinal Tap-like succession of drum- now,” said Sung-nam. You can check out their tunes at myspace.com/everysingleday3 mers, they welcomed Hyo-yung Kim to the group and got to work on what was then their fourth album, which would be their break- or give them a look all over YouTube. 24 | HAPS_october/november 2011

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From left to right: Jae-oo Jeong (37, Guitarist) Hyo-yung Kim (32, Drummer) Sung-nam Moon (38, Bass and Vocals) 2011 august/september_BUSANHAPS 2011 june/july_BUSANHAPS 27 17 2011 october/november_HAPS |25

HFeature

THE ROAD WELL-TRAVELED By Kim Heo-yeon

If you have ever been to a park in the afternoon in Korea, you’ll find many elderly men playing Baduk, the Korean version of the board game ‘Go’. However, 79-year-old Nam Sang-bom took a different approach to spend his twilight years – he decided to walk. outh Korea is a small country, the smallest of the G20 nations, and ranked 109th in the world by land mass. But if you drive along the coastline, Korea isn't that small – the outer distance is 2,413 km. Nam Sang-bom has travelled the entire distance of the South Korean coastline 10 times in five years – not by car, motorcycle or bike – only on foot. Officially, he has trekked 10 laps around the country, approximately 25,000 km, from November 2005 to October 2010. As he walked along the entire coastline and visited hundreds of islands, he said his actual walking distance might be over 40,000 km – the equivalent of a trip around the globe. Along the way, he figures that he has met as many as 10,000,000 people, and his unbelievable journey is expected to be recognized by the Guinness Book of Records. Last July, he had his 11th cross-country trip, arriving in Busan in three weeks after setting out from Seoul. His dark tan explained what he had suffered on his journey, and the look on his face and voice were more powerful than ever. His journey’s around the peninsula speaks of a man with a passion for adventure, and a person coming to terms with the country he loves.

It`s hard to believe that you walked around South Korea 10 times. Could you explain how you did it? On average, I walked 30~40 km a day from November 2005 to October 2010. It usually took three months, or as long as eight months to cover the country on foot. After an arduous journey, I rested several months, and then walked again. I did two laps a year. In fact, quite a few people find it hard to believe my locomotion on foot. Someone demanded proof. So, I've uploaded the 100,000 photos I took during the journey on my Internet blog and kept detailed diaries. I can pile the notes higher than my knee. 26 | HAPS_october/november 2011

Because I travelled alone, I was able to speak frankly and make about 2,000 friends with men and women of all ages. They all are my proof and witnesses.

What made you start walking? I had enjoyed climbing mountains after retirement. So, I'd already known I was healthy. One day, I read one book at a bookstore by chance. The book was ‘The Silk Path’ written by Bernard Ollivier, who was a retired journalist in France. He had gone on a long journey across the Silk Road for four years on foot. I shuddered after reading it, wanted to walk eagerly like him, and then tested my health in a hospital. The results showed I was as healthy as a man in his 30s. After a few days, I left home shouldering a knapsack with an Alpenstock and in heavy hiking boots. Then I was 73-years-old, ten years older than the Frenchmen. So you know, he only walked 12,000 km.

Why 10 times? At first, I had not planned to complete 10 laps. But when I came back from the first trip, I realized I forgot almost everything. It was a superficial journey. I refused to yield and hoped to do it perfectly because I am a thorough person. I made a resolution to walk 10 times to write a book. In addition, the number 10 means 'Perfection' in Asia.

You must have had a number of interesting episodes on your trip. Can you talk about some of them? While on my journey, I've had a few accidents, and been near death. On the second trip, I got buried in a mudflat chest deep. Because of the flood tide on the west coast, I had to clamber up a steep rock, which was over 20m, with my bare hands. And I

HFeature

was accosted by a mugger with a knife in a fishing village three years ago. When I walked along the 38th parallel one midwinter night, I shivered with cold, hunger and fright not being able to find a place to sleep. Even now, I break into a cold sweat when I recall that time. I've thought many times “Why should I suffer these things at my age?” But once I started, I felt the sense of freedom and happiness and I couldn't give it up. Walking is a like a beautiful drug for me.

Why was it important to you to walk such great distances? To walk is not simply a tour, but a kind of journey of philosophy, religion and enlightenment, and can be a rich source of inspiration and energy. As a result of walking, I have become acquainted with many people and recovered my smile and health. To my surprise, my rectal cancer disappeared. And it was the best method for remembering and thinking about my life. Furthermore, it led me to take some time for introspection with the Korean people.

a bikini on the beach. But Koreans really act like strangers. Although they come from far away by train or a plane, many of them return after only a brief glance at the sea. The tables are turned. I feel that Koreans are still suffering from an inferiority complex and trauma. As an elder of the society, I feel sorry for this.

An ‘introspection’ with the Korean people? Can you explain that? What is necessary to take such a long jourI`m seventy-nine-years old. I've gone through periods of Korean ney walking? turbulence, Japanese Colonial Rule, the Korean War, the collapse of the military regime and democratization and the financial crisis fourteen years ago. The road was a place to reflect deeply on my nation and its people. My trip’s purpose was to feel the soul of my nation. I met and talked with innumerable people over the past five years, and I concluded that the Korean identity has not yet established itself. For example, the people who enjoy Haeundae Beach most are foreigners, not Koreans. Foreigners are amused with swimming, playing volleyball and sunbathing in

Health strong will and moreover, money.

Money? A walking tour of the country would cost about fifteen million won. All equipment, such as clothes, hiking boots and a backpack must be the highest quality. It is impossible without enough

Continued on page 40 2011 october/november_HAPS | 27

HTravel

KOH CHANG: WHERE THE THAI PEOPLE GO By Bobby McGill

THOUGH GROWING IN POPULARITY, KOH CHANG STILL OFFERS A GREAT RESPITE FROM THAILAND’S OTHER BUSY ATTRACTIONS. oh Chang, which means “Elephant Island,” is not often spoken of when tourists marvel at the wonders of Thailand. And many people just assume keep it that way. Especially Thai tourists, who go there seeking refuge from the nearly 20 million visitors who make their way to the Land of Smiles each year. While Koh Chang has enjoyed relative obscurity, it has become more and more popular with international tourists looking for something off-thebeaten-path. There is little in the way of industry other than coconut farming, and the permanent population numbers only 5,000. While the Full Moon crowd has started making their way to Koh Chang’s Lonely Beach (which is lonely no more) and the family-oriented tourists are sipping lattes on White Sands Beach, spots such as Bailan Bay are still relatively undeveloped and offer a nice respite for the weary traveler. Situated in the far southeast corner of Thailand, right next to Cambodia, the 30 km long by 14 km wide Koh Chang is Thailand’s third largest island. Much like Hawaii’s “big island,” it is relatively young geologically and the rocky, mountainous coast has little given way to the sea, with most good stretches of sand being on the Western coast. I stayed on the island for 21-days in a small matchbox bungalow complex on the southwest coast, near Kai Bae Beach. At about 15 square feet it was spartan, with on the floor, WHILE KOH CHANG HAS ENJOYED RELATIVE aa mattress fan and two large OBSCURITY, IT HAS BECOME MORE AND French doors that opened up to a small MORE POPULAR WITH INTERNATIONAL TOURISTS LOOKING FOR SOMETHING OFF- river feeding into the gulf about 50 meters THE-BEATEN-PATH. away. The shower was outside the back door, enclosed with mortar and sea coral, with the canopy of trees serving as the roof high overhead. For me, it was perfect. My mornings were most often spent writing on my computer on the small patio that stretched from my bungalow out over the water. My days were spent practically alone on the beach, or tooling around the mountainous roads on a rented scooter with the girl who cut my hair. There are elephants, though they are not indigenous. The name comes from the elephant-head like shape of the island itself. There was one across the river that was up bright and early every morning ripping up trees and clearing the land at the command of his Thai master. If elephant arboreal assault is not your thing, there are several elephant trekking tours through the lush forests. There are also a few small companies offering daily snorkeling and diving tours, and nearly twenty waterfalls to relieve yourself from the hot Thai sun. There is a wide array of accommodations to suit any budget or taste. You can do the resort thing for upwards of $500 a night, or enjoy something a step above my spartan accommodations for about $15. 28 | HAPS_october/november 2011

In the evenings, you’ll find a wealth of great seafood restaurants on the water, as well as a small nightlife scene where you can enjoy a cold Chang beer while trying your luck against the working girls on the pool table. With its increasing popularity, Koh Chang is one of those places you should check out before it’s overrun. With Thailand's tourism growing exceedingly fast (up 20% from last year), now is the time to do it. Getting there: It’s best to catch one of two daily buses that leave every morning from the Ekamai Bus Terminal on Sukhumvit Road in Bangkok. The route ends at the Laem Ngop Piers, and from there you catch the ferry out to Koh Chang. For more info visit www.koh-chang.com.

Cebu: k Getaway A Quic If you want to take a quick weekend jaunt, several local carriers including Air Busan and Cebu Pacific Air offer great prices on flights to Cebu — sometimes as low at $175 round trip. Known as the Queen City of the South, it is the one of the most popular destinations in the Philippines. A booming metropolitan area, it is the nation’s second largest city while still boasting countless sandy beaches with both resorts and secluded locations. Though most go for the beaches, there are several great attractions to check out while you are there, such as the Basilica of Santo Niño Church founded as the convent of the Santo Niño de Cebu in 1565; Fort San Pedro, an old Spanish fort which now houses a museum including relics from the country’s colonial past under Spanish and then American rule; and Lapu-Lapu Monument, erected to the local heroes who fought and killed Magellan in 1521. For the money and the convenience, Cebu is a great spot to head to when the peninsula’s cold winters are starting to get you down and you’re craving the warmth of the beachside sun.

TEMPLE TRIPPING

On the Beaten Path

BEOMEOSA 범어사

YONGKUNGSA

The gorgeous wooded complex is set in the mountains of north Busan, and was established by Silla Dynasty King Munmu in 678. The temple gets its name from a golden heavenly fish that lived in the well. Thus, Beom (Fish) Eo (Nirvana) Sa (Temple), or roughly translated “Temple of the Nirvana Fish.” Take subway line 1 to Beomeosa Station, then take a taxi up the mountain or minibus no. 90. www.beomeosa.co.kr 051-508-3122

While most temples in Korea are located in the mountains, Haedong Yonggungsa sits right on the sea. First constructed in 1376 during the Goryeo Dynasty, the great Buddhist teacher known as Naong established the temple near Haeundae. There is a striking three-story pagoda with four lions that can be seen looking out over the ocean. From Haeundae Station, take bus 181 or jump in a taxi for $10 and a 20 minute ride. www.yongkungsa.or.kr 051-722-7744

TONGDOSA 통도사 Tongdosa was established in 646 during the reign of Queen Sun-Deok, after Monk Ja-Jang brought the shrines of the Buddha from Dang, China. The temple complex contains 35 buildings and pagodas, and 14 small temples within. Pine trees, each several hundred-years-old, line the entrance to the mountainous sanctuary. There is a bus that leaves every 20 minutes from Nopo-dong Station at the end of subway line 1. www.tongdomuseum.or.kr 055-382-1001

SAMKWANGSA 삼광사 The temple was built and dedicated in 1982 to Gwanseeumbosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion). Though lacking the long ancestry of the other temples listed here, it makes up for it in dazzling colors, artistry and exceptional masonry. Perhaps most impressive, is the nine-level pagoda which was built for world peace and the reunification of the two Koreas. Along the eight-sided structure, there are 53 Buddhas. Your best bet getting there is to grab a taxi. From Seomyeon, the fare is about $5. www.samkwangsa.or.kr 051-808-7111 30 | HAPS_october/november 2011

용궁사

SPORTS SCENE THE BOOM ARE BACK! The 2011-12 Korean Basketball League gets underway this month, and the KT Sonic Boom are ready to hit the floor running. The Sonic Boom are led by All Star Charles Rhodes and league MVP Park Sang-oh. The Sonic Boom finished last season with a league record 41 wins, and coach Jeon Chang-jin is looking for redemption after last year’s surprising semifinal loss to Wonju. Games are played at the 14,000 seat Sajik Indoor Stadium in Sajik-dong, with the season running from October through April. Tickets for games range from 8,000 to 20,000 won. To get there, take subway line 3 to the Sports Complex Station. It’s located between Sajik Stadium and the Sajik-dong Home Plus.

KT SONIC BOOM SCHEDULE Sunday, October 16 vs. KGC Tuesday, October 18 vs. Ulsan Phoebus Saturday, October 22 vs. LG Sakers Wednesday, October 25 vs. KCC Sunday, October 30 vs. Goyang Orions Wednesday, November 2 vs. Wonju Promy Friday, November 4 vs. KCC Saturday, November 12 vs. SK Friday, November 18 vs. Ulsan Phoebus Sunday, November 20 vs. Goyang Orions Tuesday, November 22 vs. Samsung Saturday, November 26 vs. Samsung

I’PARK SOCCER SCHEDULE Sunday, October 16 vs. Jeju 3 p.m. Sunday, October 30 vs. Kangwon 3 p.m. 32 | HAPS_october/november 2011 40 BUSANHAPS_august/september 2011

www.busanhaps.com/calendar

HProfile

YONSEI NEW YORK DENTAL CLINIC It’s been said that a smile takes but a moment, but that it lasts forever. It’s thoughts like this that inspire Dr. Park Gyoung-ho DDS of Yonsei New York Dental Clinic in Centum City to give patients the best care possible, since graduating from the New York College of Dentistry. “The best part of my job is when someone leaves with a healthy smile after coming in with pain. It’s a difficult job, but it gives me a sense of happiness,” he said. Located on the 14th floor of the Imperial Building across from Shinsegae Department Store, Dr. Park opened his newest venture in dentistry this past April. The spacious, beautifully decorated interior has modern surroundings and equipment, a friendly staff, and personal rooms which overlook Jangsan Mountain and BEXCO. Dr. Park graduated dental school with diplomas in Esthetic and Implant Dentistry. He offers a variety of services, including general dental needs, bleaching, and ceramics, while specializing in esthetics and implants. With services designed to help you look and feel healthier and more confident, he also features a fullyequipped clinic with the latest technology and English service, in which foreigners can make reservations for themselves by a phone call with no hassle at all. “We already have a lot of foreigners who visit our clinic, many of them coming from Europe and North America,” Park said. “With our easily accessible location and English service, we are able to help expats feel comfortable in knowing they can visit a dentist they can trust.” Yonsei New York Dental Clinic prides itself on their commitment to treating their patients with an accurate diagnosis and affordable treatments. Dr. Park also keeps himself on top of the latest trends in the field and focuses on his patients needs, whether they are adults or children. And true to form of any medical professional, Dr. Park stresses that prevention is much better than treatment. “If you have any problems, the sooner you have it looked at, the better. Prevention is key. It’s much better than treatment, so you shouldn’t delay or you could have a bigger problem later on.” Yonsei New York Dental Clinic English Service Available Phone: 741-5955 Web: yndental.net Hours: Mon-Fri 10~6:30 Thurs. until 9 (Closed 12:30-2 for lunch) Location: Centum City, Imperial Building 14th Floor To Get There: Centum City Stop, Subway Line 2, Exit 13

34 | HAPS_october/november 2011

BUSAN’S BEST BURGER! The votes are in and counted. This year's Haps Best Burger is SHARKY’S in Haeundae 1. Sharky’s Haeundae 2. HQ Bar Kyungsung 3. Wolfhound Haeundae 4. Thomas Grill Kyungsung 5. Aussie Burger Kyungsung

2011 october/november_HAPS | 35

HProfile

ROCK N’ ROLL READY TO ROLL 44 BUSANHAPS_august/september Walking into Haeundae’s Rock n’ Roll bar, the 2011 first thing you notice is how long the place is. Coming off the elevator you look left and then right. On each side there is a pool table, in the middle there is darts and beer pong. You saddle up to the bar, order a drink and look for a place to sit yourself down. The options open up from there. You can grab one of the many window tables looking out of the 14th floor window into the dark depths of the sea lapping at the shores in front of you. Or, you can head down to the far end watching the view as you walk by, away from the bar itself, away from whoever is holding their beer pong world cup tournament, away from the heart of Rock n’ Roll, out into the wings, where the atmosphere calms considerably. Before you venture to your seat, why not go to the DJ booth first? There you can pick any song you like. The modern version of the jukebox, with no need to drop a coin in to hear your favorite tunes. When you are finally seated, enjoying your beer or cocktail, looking out the window pondering whether a running start would allow you to jump from the window all the way out into the water, you can grab a little food from the menu. As the night picks up and the place begins to grow more crowded, this might be a good time for you to saunter back on over to the DJ booth, pick out a funky track, and ask the nearest person standing next to you to dance. From there, who knows? Rock n’ Roll bar is just that kind of place, and it’s located on the 14th floor right across from the aquarium on Haeundae Beach.

36 | HAPS_october/november 2011

CROSSWORD

Answers:www.busanhaps.com/crossword15

2011 october/november_HAPS | 37

HFood

LOVING

HUT

By David Holt

Loving Hut has been a stable and reliable restaurant for vegetarians and vegans in South Korea for almost three years. Last year, another one of their restaurants opened up in Haeundae. Kim Hyong-Ryul, who also goes by Emily, is proud to run a restaurant and to be a vegan in a country where meat is available on almost every street corner. The restaurant, which Kim has run since July 2010, is spotless; it’s the first thing you notice when you enter. The menu has been laid out clearly and concisely with detailed Korean and English explaining what is within. All dishes on first inspection are inexpensive, ranging between 7,000 to 10,000won, making it nowhere near as expensive as other typical Western eateries. And if you venture in during lunchtime, prices are reduced even further. Emily seemed cheerful and welcoming as we began our interview. She starts by explaining some of the difficulties she has experienced getting Koreans to try a vegan diet. “People think that it’s yucky, just cooked vegetables, so to taste the food is very important. Just EAT the food! That’s very important!” Her little dream that she jokingly tells me is to become more popular than the local butchers. It seems a tall order, but she sees the future of vegetarianism in Korea as more of an opportunity than an uphill struggle. It seems so obvious to her what the benefits are to being vegan. She started off because of spiritual and health reasons, but she hopes that people don’t give up meat just for health issues alone. “It’s important to appreciate all living things when being a vegan. If a person is a vegan just for health reasons they don’t really stay vegan for a long time, but on the other hand, those who think that for natural reasons, will fundamentally stay as vegans for the rest of their lives.” She also informs that too often people stereotype vegan food as being tasteless and dull. “If you use fresh and organic ingredients, it will of course taste good.”

3832| HAPS_october/november BUSANHAPS_august/september 2011 2011

She also feels that people say vegan food is repetitive and uninspiring, so to combat this, she tries to create a new menu every two to three months. I asked what dishes she is currently working on, and after a little persuasion she reveals a soy steak with all the trimmings and a risotto. She also stocks a lot of frozen fake meat, and she says that this is very popular amongst the expat community. Within the refrigerator there is a large stock of soy ham, fake chicken, sausages and allegedly, fake squid. One of the many environmental concerns people have today is the distance food travels to your plate, but Emily makes this quite clear as to where her food originates. “Almost all the food is Korean. Sometimes there are things coming from Taiwan too. They have a lot of vegetarian food.” One thing that concerned her when she started out was the amount of food from the buffet that would be left on the plate at the end. So to combat this, if there are any remnants left, there is a 2,500won ‘fine.’ This may sound a little drastic, but it works. Now she smiles that the regular customers clean their plates from top to bottom and nothing goes back to be re-used in the kitchen. Her family, including her two sisters, have been in the business since its inception and she gladly boasts about how her niece is on a vegan diet and how she is growing at a much quicker rate than any of her classmates. She also proudly tells of teaching a kindergarten class once a month and hearing back from surprised parents and teachers about children eating all their greens. It doesn’t matter what kind of ‘eater’ you are, but if you prefer eating delicious tasty food rather than the bland and stodgy, it’s well worth a visit to the Loving Hut. You can check out more from David Holt at www.davidholt.wordpress.com

HFood

MAMA MIA MARINARA by Jen Sotham

Jen shares her sauce recipe that wowed even a born and bred Italian on her visit to Italy. Ingredients:

During a backpacking trip through Europe seven years ago, I stayed in the homes of people who I had met through hospitality exchange websites in order to reserve most of my budget for splurges: namely, food. I come from a sophisticated breed of gluttony, and my strongest childhood memories are defined by the meals that augmented them. So how could I do Europe without properly tasting it? I was very selective about what I treated myself to. In Brussels, my money went to mussels and Chimay; in Paris, to Chablis, Escargot and Brie; in Amsterdam… well, we’ll keep that in Amsterdam. In Rome, Mozzarella di Buffalo was my focal point. Perugian chocolate and Montefalco wine sucked up their share of my dwindling funds. When it came to food, Italy was a whole other animal. In other countries, while their native cuisines dominated the restaurant scene, there were other options. You could find Chinese takeout in France, or a Falaffel joint in Holland. In Italy, there is only Italian food. Up to that point, I had been preparing one elaborate meal (usually a cuisine that they couldn’t find locally) for each of my hosts. I offered to cook a meal for Andrea, a filmmaker whose couch I would be crashing on in Rome. After my long day of exploring the inexhaustible outdoor museum of a city, I found that even the markets carried only indigenous foods. Although I was elated with the ingredients I had at my disposal and quite confident in my grasp of Italian cuisine, I cringed at the thought of cooking Italian for an Italian. But I stuck with what I knew, cooked my heart out and any anxiety I had was quelled by his mix of silence and contented groans. “How do you know how to cook like that?” he asked after he’d practically licked the plate. “I’m a born and bred New Yorker,” I replied. “I’ve been eating good Italian food since I was in the womb.” Although Italian food has, perhaps, the farthest global reach of any country’s cuisine (you’d be hard pressed to find a spot on the globe where you can’t find pizza or pasta), it is rare to find authentic Italian on this here peninsula. If you want good Italian, you’re going to have to make it yourself. I hang a lot of my cooking pride in the ‘Italian’ section of repertoire. The reason I am able to do this is simply because I have mastered the marinara. And now you can, too.

10 cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed with the heel of your knife 1 large white onion, finely diced ¾ cup olive oil 2 large cans (28 oz. or 800g.) of Divella whole peeled tomatoes, drained 2 cans (14 oz. or 400 g.) of Hunts Tomato Sauce 4-5 Tbsp. Macrocom Spaghetti Seasoning Mix (or any Italian seasoning blend, which should contain thyme, marjoram, basil, oregano and rosemary) 2 Tbsp. crushed red pepper flakes (1 Tbsp. if you’re a wuss) 8-10 fresh basil leaves (Shinsaegae E-Mart) Salt and Pepper

Tools:

A large pot, a wooden spoon, an apron (or crappy old t-shirt), a good glass of Chianti (or bottle, if you’re of my own breed) and Paul Simon’s ‘Graceland’ album (I swear, my sauce tastes better if I listen to this album while cooking it).

Method:

In a large pot, heat the garlic and onions in the olive oil on a medium flame, stirring constantly until slightly brown. Pluck each tomato from the can, pulverize it with your hand and toss it in (my favorite part!). Let the tomatoes simmer for a few minutes. Add the canned tomato sauce, spices, basil and salt and pepper to taste. Put the flame on low and cover the pot, giving the sauce a good stir every five minutes. Cook for 25-30 minutes.

What to do with the sauce:

-Sautée some mushrooms, spinach and diced chicken breast and toss it all over some pasta (I recommend penne or ziti). -Add ½ cup of heavy cream (NOT SWEET) for a pink sauce. If you do this, overshoot the amount of spices. -If you have an oven (which you should – a large toaster oven only costs about 60,000 won on Gmarket.com), bread and fry some chicken cutlets (or sliced eggplant), place them in a baking pan, smother with sauce and shredded mozzarella and bake on 150 degrees C for 12-15 minutes. -Put a bit of shredded mozzarella between two tortillas, then evenly spread sliced black olives, sautéed sliced mushrooms and genoa salami (Costco) on top. Cover with a thin layer of sauce and more shredded cheese and bake on 150 degrees C for 8-10 minutes. For this, a proper pizza cutter (the most fun cooking utensil EVER) will come in handy. Buon Appetito! 2011 october/november_HAPS | 39

HFeature

THE ROAD LESS TRAVELED continued from page 26 money. The total expense of my 10 trips was 300 million won ($269,000 USD). The journey on foot is the cheapest, and yet the most expensive. I made the first trip at my own expense. But from the second lap on, I was able to secure sponsorship from those friends I made in earlier trips. Believe it or not, I am no better than a beggar.

On your business card it reads: “The publicity ambassador of Seoul National University College of Medicine.” What does that mean? I am literally a walking-publicity ambassador, who publicizes Seoul National University Hospital and College of Medicine all over the country. When I met sick people on my way, I assisted them in seeking a cure by the Medical Specialist of SNUH. People treated at the hospital through me were estimated at over 1,000.

Are you a doctor? It doesn’t matter whether I am a doctor or not. What I’ve done, and my social background is of little importance. There is an expression that Kim Sat-gat wrote in his book on travel. “It's an unwritten rule not to ask around the beggar`s past.” Kim Sat-gat was the most famous wandering-poet who traveled all over the country for 20 years during the Chosun Dynasty. I want to be remembered just as a wandering traveller. Out on the road, everybody becomes equal, rich or poor.

Do you think it’s possible for anyone to do the same as you have? The answer is of course, yes. There are, however, a few essential prerequisites. To speak in Korean a little bit makes one’s adventure more abundant. As a result of walking, I have recovered my health and soul and realized how wonderful life is. If you want to feel that, go far away right now like me!Self-portrait by Kay 2 Nam Sang-bom has archived all detailed notes and photos of his round-the-country walks on his Internet blog cafe.daum.net/ mi5267 40 | HAPS_october/november 2011

THE CINEMATIC

SOUND

continued from page 14

Ultimately, it was the use of the traditional Korean folk music staple, ‘Arirang’, which ends up being the crown jewel of musical contributions. Together, Jim and his selection of artists devised their rendition for the end credits, giving the song a modern edge, yet retaining the soaring and graceful qualities of the timeless folk ballad. It’s a fine balance between pop music update, and respectful homage; one that could presumably set the bar for future renditions. Interestingly enough, according to Jim Batcho, Violet was initially against providing the vocals for ‘Arirang’: “Violet tracked the vocals for what was assumed to be a replacement singer, because she was convinced her own vocals were lacking in both power and her pronunciation of the Korean lyrics. When we handed it to Chul with Violet’s vocals intact, he immediately gave it his blessing and insisted that it be left as is.” As it stands, Ari Ari the Korean Cinema is an orchestration of historical images, conversations, and music that celebrate the power of films as a language. Korean cinema has a storied history behind it, one that is plagued with conflict and doubt, yet bountiful in the fruits of labor that have been produced by some of the world’s most talented filmmakers. Chul’s documentary also serves as a reminder that film is, first and foremost, a collaborative process; one that knows no cultural or ethnic boundaries. Chul’s passion is made abundantly clear, and it is effectively communicated through Ari Ari. “This is a good way to show studios and other filmmakers that, yes, you can take the risks and work with non-Koreans on your films...because it’s all art, and music and cinema go hand-in-hand.” Ari Ari the Korean Cinema will make its world premiere at BIFF October 7th and will be shown again October 11th. - 110 minutes 2011 october/november_HAPS | 41

HGuide

Restaurant Guide Guide to Restaurants ₩ - Meals Under ₩10,000 ₩₩ - Meals are Reasonably Priced ₩₩₩ - Be prepared to spend some cash 3 - Smoking area is available Busan Haps recommended restaurant

FOO

D IS GOO D

VIS ILL HU FO IT B andR MORUSAN NG RY MO E H RE FOO APS MA D LI .CO ? PS STI M N GS

Gwangan-li

Kyungsungdae

Western

Beached Cafe and Sports Bar 051-924-9662 ₩ Good bar fare, great view, right on the beach. Burger and Pasta 051-751-6631 ₩₩3 Solid burgers on the beach with good wines. Service always friendly and food consistently good. Breeze Burns 051-754-4670 ₩₩ Burgers on the shore. One of several locations. Guess Who Restaurant 051-757-1213 ₩₩3 Always busy, the kitchen sink is on the menu.

Aussie Burger ₩ Burgers, fries and Aussie pies. Burger and Pasta 051-625-6651 ₩✔ The original. Great change of pace. Same managment as Thursday Party. Great service. HQ Bar 010-2857-2367 ₩✔ Solid, gut bomb Americana. For real men. Painted Chair Cafe 051-611-3666 ₩ There’s the art, the coffee and ambiance.

Italian

Chinese

Seomyeon Western

Breeze Burns 051-818-4670 ₩₩ Chain burgers, but good quality. Fuzzy Navel 051-746-6439 ₩₩✔ Have a wide variety of Mexican dishes. Judie Nine Brau 051-667-7979 ₩₩✔ Good beer and tasty side dishes. T.G.I. Friday’s 051-805-3164 ₩₩ Geat deals for Haps readers. $1 beers as well. The Pancake ₩ The name says it all. Good all day.

Italian

Bella Citta ₩₩₩ Incredible interior, top notch menu and indoor garden seating. Haps top pick. Art gallery. Pasta e Vino 051-746-2500 ₩₩ Intimate beachside spot with good Italian cuisine.

Ni Hao Chinese ₩ Very good Chinese - the real deal.

Indian

Buona Oven Pizza 051-904-8239 ₩₩ Nice, oven-baked pizza and spaghetti. Florian’s ₩₩ Buffet with a wide selection of dishes.

Korean

Italian

Korean

Shim Hae Raw Fish Market 051-753-6868 ₩₩ Everything seafood, all in one place. North end of the beach. Four Season Raw Fish ₩₩ English speaking owner. 2nd fl Raw Fish Market Korean Natural Food 051-751-5534 ₩₩ Eating the good stuff that is good for you too.

Japanese

Sinshen 051-627-9191 ₩ Ginza 051-751-7077 ₩₩₩ Fam Island Sushi Buffet 051-751-6100 ₩₩ Large selction of sushi on offer. Good quality.

Mexican

Fuzzy Navel 051-754-6349 ₩₩✔ Solid burritos and tacos. Good party spot

Vietnamese

Saigon Pho ₩₩ One of the few non-chain Vietnamese spots in town. Across from Starbucks south end. 42 | HAPS_october/november 2011

Shabana 051-621-4821 ₩₩ Good, affordable Indian food. Bon Bon 051-621-0906 ₩₩ Great little spot next to Kyungsung U.

Korean

Baekdu ₩₩ Great variety of side dishes. Eu Dae Di ₩₩ Great Korean BBQ, side dishes, the works. Maesaengiga 051-622-0611 ₩₩ Green algae food. Yes, really. Very healthy. Naraso ₩₩ Beef bbq’d at your table.

Buffalo Chicken 051-805-3512 ₩₩✔ Good chicken chain with several interesting sauces. Dragon Dream (The Cave Bar) 051-646-5924 ₩₩ Very interesting decor with nice selection of food. Golm Ok ₩₩✔ Korean BBQ. Beef and pork selections.

Vegetarian

Loving Hut 051-808-7718 ₩₩ The veggie lovers paradise. www.lovinghut.kr

PNU

Japanese

Chibi Chibi Oknomayaki 051-904-8257 ₩₩ Good Japanese at reasonable rates. The Sushi 051-611-4043 ₩₩ Affordable, quality Japanese food.

Turkish

Aile Mediterranean 070-8234-6962 ₩₩ Great Middle Eastern food. Closed Mondays.

Western

Farmers Burgers ₩ People rave about it. Nominated in Best Burger Contest.

Indian

Ganesh ₩₩ Small spot with good Indian fare on the menu.

HGuide Shabana 051-517-1947 ₩₩ Nice Indian food for cheap.

Mexican

Taco’s Family 010-5688-6303 ₩ Small in stature, but great food.

Turkish

Kebabistan ₩₩ Back to the original great taste from years ago.

Vietnamese

Pho ₩ Nice Vietnamese food in PNU.

Vegetarian

Loving Hut 051-518-0115 ₩ The growing world-wide chain doesn’t disappoint. www.lovinghut.kr

Haeundae Western

Breeze Burns 051-747-4670 ₩₩ Big sloppy burgers. Good atmosphere. Geckos Bar and Grill 051-747-3069 ₩₩✔ Solid food, drink on beach. geckosterrace.com HQ Jangsan 010-2857-2367 ₩✔ Great pizza and wings. Good stuff. Sharky’s 010-4038-2907 ₩✔ Busan Haps Best Burger Winner 2011. Starface 051-742-0600 ₩✔ British and Indian Cuisine. Great curry, Fish n’ Chips T.G.I. Friday’s 051-740-6531 ₩₩ Reliable chain with wide selection of Americana. The Wolfhound Pub 051-746-7913 ₩₩✔ Great menu. Excellent variety. Fun bar. www.wolfhoundpub.com

Indian

Ganga ₩₩₩ Excpect to spend some good money, but good food. Namaste 051-746-1946 ₩₩ Indian fine dining. Good prices, great food. Ganesh ₩ Small place but it’ll do the trick.

Italian

Bella Cita 051-747-6351 ₩₩ Delicious, real Italian cuisine with awesome interior. Cine De Chef 051-745-2880 ₩₩₩ In Shinsegae. Movies and great food. El Olive Italian 051-752-7300 ₩₩₩ Delicious Italian, close to Costco. Il Sole 051-7474523 ₩₩₩ Changed ownership. Still has the fantastic view. Van Gogh Terrace 051-741-3767 ₩₩ Nice view of the water while you eat.

Japanese

Gen Sushi 051-740-6630 ₩₩ Affordable sushi. Good stuff.. Suntory Japanese 051-742-5788 ₩₩ Great location and delicious food. Umi 051-741-4337 ₩₩₩

Korean

An Ga Korean BBQ 051-742-7852 ₩₩ Cheolma Hanwoo Bulgogi 051-709-4000 ₩₩₩ Hurgsiru 051-722-1377 ₩₩ Jagalchi Eel 051-742-5387 ₩₩

Maris 051-704-8870 ₩₩ Great seafood buffet. Across from Primus. Somunnan 051-746-0003 ₩₩ Good traditional Korean food.

Mexican

Fuzzy Navel 051-746-6439 ₩₩✔ Good burritos and tacos, fun at night when the crowds pour in. www.fuzzynavel.co.kr Hello Kimchi 051-701-5199 ₩ Popular Mexican restaurant. Excellent Fajitas. Celebrating only one year, but already very popular. Taco El Puebla 051-747-6003 ₩ Consistently good burritos and tacos. Taco Senora 051-744-4050 ₩ The original. Ownership changed. Still quality food.

Thai

Hello Thai 051-731-5033 ₩₩ You can’t go wrong with Thai food. Coconut milk rules, green curry is king.

Vegetarian

Loving Hut 051-747-2979 ₩₩ All organic, all good, all the time. Veggie paradise. www.lovinghut.kr

Vietnamese

Pho Kim 051-740-4868 ₩ Good food at great prices. Great soup, pork bowl. Located in SFUNZ. Open for years.

Mr. Pizza - 1577-0077 www.mrpizza.co.kr Pizza Etang - 1688-3651 www.pizzaetang.com

Family Restaurants Bennigans - 1577-4800 (2 locations) www.bennigans.co.kr Outback Steakhouse - 1577-0500 (10 locations) www.outback.co.kr T.G.I. Friday’s - 1588-2590 (4 locations) www.tgif.co.kr VIPS - 1577-0700 (7 locations) www.ivips.co.kr

RECOMMENDED RESTAURANT

Bella Citta

Fast Food McDonalds - 1600-5252 (30 locations in Busan) www.mcdonalds.co.kr Lotteria - 1600-9999 www.lotteria.com Burger King- (7 locations in Busan) www.burgerking.co.kr Popeye’s Chicken (10 locations in Busan) www.popeyes.co.kr KFC - No delivery (7 locations in Busan) www.kfckorea.com Quiznos - (4 locations in Busan) www.quiznos.co.kr Dunkin Donuts (45 locations in Busan) www.dunkindonuts.co.kr Mister Donut (5 locations in Busan) misterdonut.gsretail.com Baskin Robbins (66 locations in Busan) www.baskinrobbins.co.kr

Three locations in Busan, all with real Italian food. Menu varies little between the three, but Gwangan is our favorite. Spacious, with a large open patio garden in the middle, an art gallery, a grotto, large party dining and, on top of all that, exquisite Italian. They are open for lunch with varied specials. If the mood is right, book the couples-only room with a view of the beach. www.busanhaps. com/food/bellacitta 051-711-0010

Pizza Dominos - 1577-3082 www.dominos.co.kr Papa John’s - 1577-8080 www.pji.co.kr Pizza Hut - 1588-5588 www.pizzahut.co.kr 2011 october/november_HAPS | 43

HGuide

Bar Guide Kyungsungdae Club Realize The home for Metal and Rock. Great sound. Almost Famous Funky atmosphere, great staff, live music. Blue Monkey Ladies drink 1/2 price 7-9. DJ’s on weekends. Cafe Radio Great atmosphere. Relax with a book. Club Fabric Live music, warm cozy decor. Pool & Darts. Dugout Bar Great sports bar. Johnny is the man! Go Giants! Fully Booked Used book store, bar, cafe. Great concept. HQ Bar Where the real men go to drink and BS. Kino Eye Dark atmosphere. Live music on occasion. Long. T Bar Large bar with pool, darts and cheap Long T’s. Monk’s Jazz Club Busan’s only jazz club. Tuesday nights are hot. Ol’55 The best open mic in town on Wednesdays. Painted Chair Cafe The art, the atmosphere. Good place to chill. Thursday Party A staple across Busan. Great service. Darts. Vinyl Underground Consistently the best spot for live music. Zip Code Nice little spot for drinking. Good staff.

Haeundae 247 Lounge Every bit the lounge. Pool, darts, chill out. Billie Jean A Haps favorite. Great decor. Ladies drink free on Thursday nights. Club Elune Busan’s super club. A must see at least once. Fuzzy Navel Usually packed on weekends. Good grub. Geckos Beach front bar. Consistently good food. HQ Jangsan 010-2857-2367 Great bar to get your drink on with some wings. Maktum If Elune is packed, head to Maktum. Miami 88 On the beach. Patio, good service. Murpii In Novotel. Dancing, drinking, business class. Rock n’ Roll House Great atmosphere. Two pool tables. Great view. Sharky’s One of the most popular bars in Haeundae. Winner Haps Best Burger 2011. 010-4038-2907

Starface A classic. Great atmosphere, excellent staff, Trivia on Sundays. Pool and darts. 051-742-0600 Suntory Japanese Food and drink in a classy setting. Bonzai! The Wolfhound Pub No bullshit pours and great food on the menu. www.wolfhoundpub.com 051-746-7940 Thursday Party Always consistent. A Busan cornerstone. U2 Bar Caters more to the Korean crowd these days, but still a good place to dance and lounge out.

Gwanang-li Luna Bass Great jazz club with excellent view and pool.Live music throughout the week. 010-9955-5960 Beach Bikini Spacious night club with dancing and such. Beached Cafe and Sports Bar 051-924-9662 Kiwi run. Has in a short time become hugely popular. Great service, awesome view of the beach. Club 3f Dance club looking out on the water. Elegant. Enoch Mansion Bohemian spot. Great music and atmosphere. Fuzzy Navel On the beach. Usually packed. Burritos & Tacos Holloway Road Party Pub Quaint, good atmosphere. Good view of beach. Paris Half coffee shop, half bar. Food is good too. Thursday Party Two locations next to each other. Enough said. WA Bar Wide selection of beers all laid out for your choosing.

PNU Crossroads The first foreigner bar. Still going. Open mic Thurs. Interplay Live music, hit or miss if you catch on a good night. Monks Can catch some great Korean indie bands here. Red Bottle Good spot to get a drink, play some darts. Soultrane Home to the HaHa hole comedy open mic. The Basement A Haps favorite. The anchor to the PNU scene.

Seomyeon Division 9 Pinball, basketball, darts, drinking, good fun. Foxy Dance club, usually packed on weekends. Fuzzy Navel Similar to the other FN’s. Usually packed.

Judie Nine Brau How about a little home brewed beer? Metal City Pool, darts and live music. Rock n’ Roll Bar A true dive. Good atmosphere. Pool and darts. The Old Record Bar Want to pick some vinyl to play? Go ahead. The Spot Very cool new place. Excellent food and drink. Thursday Party Consistently busy. Great place to meet people. Have a listing? Contact busanhaps@gmail.com

Directory & Assistance Busan Global Center 1577-7716 Tourist Info in English, Japanese & Chinese 1330 Gimhae Airport Tourist Information Center – International 82-51-973-2800 Gimhae Airport Tourist Information Center – Domestic 82-51-973-4607 Busan Station Tourist Information Center 82-51-441-6565 International Ferry Terminal Tourist Information Center 82-51-465-3471

Radio (English eFM) FM 90.5

2011 october/november_HAPS | 45

HRegular

THARP ON:

FAME “Fame! Thou glittering bauble… in searching for thee, what fame have I not lost?” - Captain Hook, in J.M. Barrie’s Peter Pan

t’s no secret that I have always craved fame. Like Captain Hook, I too have spent much of my life in search of that “glittering bauble.” I’ve been a desperate, needy, attention whore since the day I graduated from diapers to “big boy pants.” You could say that this desire is in my makeup— that it exists at the molecular level, planted firmly into the deep recesses of my DNA. A legendary family story drives this point home: I was fiveyears-old, visiting Disneyland with my parents and siblings. At one point I got separated from my mother, who quickly went from concerned to all-out panic mode. After all, this was the height of summer and the theme park was packed with throngs of tourists. As she frantically searched the crowd, her eyes were drawn to a stage nearby, on which three unfortunate performers in furry, suffocating costumes (complete with huge plastic heads) danced as the “Three Little Pigs.” And who was right there next to them, carefree, getting down in front of the whole crowd? You guessed it. It seems that even then, as a toddler, the attention heaped upon me by my doting mother was somehow insufficient; I had an appetite for recognition that only the public spotlight could even begin to satiate. Why is this? Why do some of us want to be famous? Is it taught to us by society, or does it spring from a deep-seeded feeling of inadequacy? Sure, there are a lot of perks to being famous—you get ushered past velvet ropes straight into VIP sections, you can get out of speeding tickets, companies give you FREE STUFF, and most importantly, you can bang way outside of your looks class—but isn’t fame more than often just a pain in the ass? Any Westerner who has spent time in Korea knows this for a fact: People wave at you in the street, stare, and loudly say “HELLO”; total strangers approach you on the subway, grab your arm, and pepper you with all sorts of awkward, personal questions. It’s weird and often annoying, but it is part of the gig. Just be consoled by the fact that you can finally sympathize with Brad and Angelina’s plight. 46 | HAPS_october/november 2011

Sure, not everyone wants to be famous, but even the most jaded among us are not immune to the buzz and pull of a celebrity in the room. I’m the worst offender. Last year, during the opening night party at BIFF, I stood next to Willem Dafoe for thirty minutes. I attempted nonchalance, but not for one second was I unaware of Mr. Movie Star’s presence just feet away. And I was too much of a pants-wetting coward to actually say anything to the man, electing instead to feel famous vicariously. I was a lesser-satellite orbiting his massive fame sun, basking in the egoarousing radiation of his important-person aura. One time, while living in LA, I was at a comedy show attended by none other than Monty Python’s Eric Idle (appropriately named, since the Pythons are my idols). I kept tabs on him all night and attempted to ambush him as he exited the men’s room, grasping for a handshake and a bit of face time. But fame is a powerful thing, and when he approached I became completely paralyzed, star-struck to the center of my being; he saw me staring and shot me a look that commanded, “Stay the hell away from me you pathetic, obsessed fan.” I froze, let him pass, and impotently slinked away, stinging with shame. Now BIFF is upon us, Busan’s most glamorous nine days, when the truly famous deign to tread upon the red carpets and hotel ballrooms of our humble port town. I’ll be there once again, busting into parties, stealing drinks, schmoozing, pimping, flattering and glad-handing. And when I’m talking to that big director or starlet and asked which magazine I write for, I’ll proudly say “Busan Haps,” brandishing the last issue like a talisman. “In fact, that’s me on the cover.” The actual famous person will raise their eyebrows as they take it all in and probably utter something like: “Hmmm… It sure doesn’t look like you… Whatever… your head looks much fatter in real life. Who is on the cover this issue?” I’ll take a permanent marker with me just in case. Who knows? Maybe they will have seen my earlier work with the Three Little Pigs.

GWANGAN-LI

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