Busan Haps Issue 17 by Haps Magazine

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cONteNts On the Cover:

Poko Lambro Photography:

Ben Weller

FeatuRes

Korea’s Hidden Smokers | 22 5 Questions: Ms. Biz. | 24 Poko Lambro: Busan & Beyond | 28

ReGulaRs

spORt

Seeing Green: Golfing in Busan | 32 Schedules: KT Sonic Boom & I’Park | 33

pROFile

Thai Massage: A Slice of Thai | 21 Dong-eui Medical Center: Fighting Fat with Oriental Medicine | 44

tRavel

International: Hong Kong | 34 Travel Competition: Win Tickets to Hong Kong | 35 Korea: Life with the Monks | 36

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eDitOR’s LETTER s we creep up on our third year of Haps, the team sat down and took a look at what we’ve done thus far, and what we could do to make it better. Issue 17 is the product of that. Inside you will find some new sections, along with the old, with a shot of steroids. Rather than focus on several feature articles, we instead filled the magazine to the brim with a much more comprehensive look at what’s happening around the area. As for our regular features, we have expanded them to include a more national focus. We are fortunate to now have famed gender politics blogger, James Turnbull, as a regular contributor. This issue also features a great Five Questions interview with the president of the American Chamber of Commerce in Korea, Amy Jackson, who pulls no punches on her assessment of business on the peninsula. For our local love, there is Poko Lambro. I have been told several times during the first two years of Haps that I gave them an inordinate amount of attention. As the EIC, I am self-conscious of what the public perceives of my bias, and was probably a little less loving this past year. But they are leaving us soon, so here you go; a full-on lovefest for the two musicians that have moved me musically more than any since I have been in Korea. Hang in there, spring is a’ comin’. ^^

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Publisher

Ju Shin-hye Editor in Chief

Bobby McGill Marketing Director

Michael Schneider Art Director

Russell McConnell Managing Editor

Jeff Liebsch Webmaster

Danny Himes Manager

Jeong Jin-bong

Writers:

Photographers:

Chris Tharp James Turnbull Kady Katona Stephane Turcotte Jim Batcho Jeff Liebsch Bobby McGill

Gabriella Fabbri J. Sterling Ben Weller BMC interns:

Ju-young Moon Melinda Rubianto

Illustrators:

Sarah Elminshawi

SUBMISSIONS busanhaps@gmail.com

ADVERTISING busanhaps@gmail.com j.busanhaps@gmail.com (한국어) Follow us @busanhaps Busan Haps Magazine

Busan Haps Winter 2012 Issue 17 Business Registration Number: 00001 First Publication Date: Sept, 2, 2009

Address: Ocean Tower #1726, 760-3, Woo 1 Dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan, Republic of Korea 612-822

www.busanhaps.com Disclaimer: The opinions in the magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher.

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HThis Issue

Haps People

CONTRIBUTORS stephaNe tuRcOtte

james tuRNBull

Canadian Stephane Turcotte’s love of books is obvious – so much so, he opened Busan’s first English used book store – Fully Booked in KSU.

Since coming to Korea in 2000, James has become widely known for his highly respected blog The Grand Narrative. He lives in Busan with his wife and two daughters, Alice and Elizabeth.

jim BatchO Jim Batcho came to Korea five years ago to teach media and film studies. In his previous life, he was a San Francisco-based university lecturer, drummer and writer.

chRis thaRp

KaDy KatONa Kady Katona is a Colorado native, and former Busanite, currently living in Sydney, Australia with companion Paco Socarras. She continues to educate children wherever she goes.

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Chris hails from Washington State and has lived in Busan for over seven years. When he’s not travelling the world, or entertaining the masses, he’s also been known to write very comical stories. He’s the author of Dispatches from the Peninsula: Six Years in South Korea.

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Events

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THE

BiG

FIVE

cluB FiX

Ok, it sounds cliche to say it is Busan’s hottest night club, but really, it is. On any weekend night, you could be on a dance floor with a thousand people. And the multi-level Club Fix consistently brings in the biggest international DJ’s every weekend. One of the better weekends will be March 2nd and 3rd with UK’s Lee Mortimer spinning on Friday, followed by Neon Stereo from Australia taking the helm on Saturday. The party always goes late, but get there early to beat the line, and as always at Club Fix, dress to impress.

viNyl Williams

Equal parts artist and musician, Vinyl Williams will be bringing his tripped out, dreamlike talents to Korea, opening for indie favorite Toro y Moi in Seoul at V-Hall on February 17th, followed up by a solo show in Busan at Ol’55 on the 18th. William’s music is a mystical melange of sound patterns based on ‘sonic matrices’ - a surreal sequence of sounds and frequencies designed to beguile the audience. Advance tix: 10,000 won Door: 15,000 won. More info at www.supercolorsuper.com

cROss-scape

GeeRt jaN jaNseN aND elleN vaN BaReN aRt eXhiBitiON

Through March 18th, the Go Eun Gallery in Haeundae will feature the ASEANKorea Contemporary Media Art Exhibition, a collaborative exhibition featuring prominent photographers from Korea, Brunei, Cambodia, Indonesia, Laos, Malaysia, Myanmar, the Philippines, Singapore, Thailand and Vietnam. The exhibition is currently touring around Asia with a recent stop in Seoul before coming to Busan. For more info, go to eng.goeunmuseum.org

ROcKtiGeRs vs GuitaR WOlF

The newly opened Netherland Art Gallery on Dalmaji in Haeundae features the work of legendary painter Geert Jan Jansen and his wife Ellen Van Baren. They’ve left their castle in the Netherlands for a year sabbatical here in Busan, and their art will be displayed until August. Though often infamously noted for some incredible forgeries done in his youth, Jan Jansen’s styles span the entire spectrum, and his genius is not something to be missed. For more info on the Netherland Gallery, check out the Haps gallery page at www.busanhaps.com/poi/gallery

Korea’s biggest rockabilly punk band, The Rock Tigers, will go head to head with Japanese garage punk power trio, Guitar Wolf, for three shows March 1st, 2nd and 3rd in Busan, Jeonju and Seoul. Guitar Wolf was formed in Nagasaki in 1987, and since that time have released nine studio albums internationally, as well as a live album and numerous singles. The Rock Tigers have been pounding out what they call “Kimchibilly” since 2001, and much like Guitar Wolf, have been well-received on their international tours. More info on the shows at www.rocktigers.com

HAPS HIGHLIGHTS of the WEEK

suNDay Socrates Cafe. Have issues...to discuss, that is. Busan’s brain trust meets every Sunday at Starbucks in Seomyeon at 11am.

mONDay Sharky’s (Haeundae) brings their excellent food to the table. 50% off any menu item when you purchase a drink.

Trivia @ Starface (Haeundae) Rack your weekend wrecked brain on the top o’ the hill at 7pm.

NBA @ HQ (KSU). Watch some hoops, drink some beer, order the Philly Cheese!

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tuesDay Open Mic @ Basement (PNU). Where stars are born, or die.

Fish n’ Chips is the order of the day. At Wolfhound (Haeundae), it’s 2 for 1 and 5000 won at Beached (Gwanganli). Awesome!

WeDNesDay Movie night at The Crossroads (PNU), for a good flick. Beached (Gwangan-li) has their bomb roast chicken night.

Ol’55 (KSU) for the most popular open mic in town.

thuRsDay Antony’s very cool electronic trivia @ HQ (KSU). Lord your intellect over friends and strangers.

Put down the book and catch a flick at Fully Booked (KSU) movie night.

Busan’s Daily Hot Spots FRiDay Billie Jean (Haeundae) ladies night. Ladies drink FREE until 11pm. No kidding. Meet the monkey down at Blue Monkey (KSU) for their Happy Hour specials.

satuRDay Live music at Vinyl Underground (KSU), Billie Jean (Haeundae) and Club Realize (KSU) is always on tap. If you prefer tunes on the spin, Elune, Club Fix and Maktum are always dependable for a full dance floor.

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HThe Haps

WORD ON THE STREET

Lufthansa Celebrates Five Years in Busan

Gutta Deep @ Almost Famous Kyungsung

Due to the success of the last event, the DJs from Jeolla Province are coming back for another round of underground madness at Almost Famous in Kyungsung. Featured DJs that will be spinning throughout the evening include B.Jinx, IL, and Hypnotiq from the USA, along with Dan Luba and Guy P from the United Kingdom. For updates and more details on the gig, check out ‘AlmostFamous’ on Facebook.

World-renowned German-based air carrier, Lufthansa, has been around for 46 years, and five of those have been in Busan. This March, they will celebrate their fifth anniversary flying out of and into Gimhae International Airport. To mark the occasion, they will offer all sorts of special flight packages and prices. For more info, check out their website at www.lufthansa.com

Busan Goes Green - march 17

St. Patrick’s Day commemorates Saint Patrick, the most commonly recognised of the patron saints of Ireland, and the arrival of Christianity in Ireland. We’re pretty sure they never expected that it would turn out to be the biggest drinking day of the year, but alas, it has. Some bars around the city go all out for the event, and this year marks the 17th Cullivan St. Paddy’s Day Party at the Basement in PNU, which is the longest running in the country. Wolfhound, Busan’s most popular Irish-themed pub, also holds their very popular shindig. Interesting fact: The holiday was normally associated with the color blue.

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Mardi Gras Comes to Busan

Mardi Gras, otherwise known as “Fat Tuesday”, is the last day of the Carnival season, as it always falls the day before Ash Wednesday, the first day of Lent. The HQ Bar in Kyungsung brings New Orleans to the city for the night on February 18th, with Cajun food, a Mardi Gras band, and a genuine “second line” that parades around the Kyungsung streets. busanhaps.com

Local News & Events

ha-ha hOle @ sOultRaNe

The first Friday of every month, the local stand-up-jokester crew of the Ha-Ha Hole do their thing at Soultrane in PNU. If you haven’t seen it, you’re missing Busan’s funniest expat minds, including co-founders Chris Tharp and Johnny the Greek, dishing it out once a month on stage. The place tends to fill up, so get there early. For info on getting to Soultrane, check out the Haps Nightlife page online for a map to hilarity. www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/Busan

easteR - apRil 8 Korea is the only industrialized nation in the world with a growing Christian following, so Easter is widely celebrated across the peninsula. If you are looking for services in English around Busan, there is the International Community Church in Nam-gu, and over in Hadan, you can attend at the Hosanna International Ministries. For more info on English services in the area, check the web at www.busanhaps.com/ religious-services.

WiNe-Oh!

Wine expert, Anthony Velasquez, sends this in: “There are many wine bars in Busan, but finding a good one can be a bit hard. Too many replicate the staid notion that a wine bar should be some posh, dimly lit, cavernous space stocked with the same, but severely overpriced offerings from your favorite box-store. That’s why VINAfo in Kyungsung deserves some distinction.” Co-owned by Lee Seung-hoon, a certified wine educator from Bordeaux L’Ecole du Vin, and his wife Soo-jong, VINAfo breaks the mold with its warm, inviting space and polished, yet gregarious service. Besides a couple of standards, the list at VINAfo provides bottles you’d be hard-pressed to find anywhere in Korea (though pricey for your average bibber). I enjoyed a tasty bottle of Altos de la Hoya Monastrell (Mouvedre), a dark-fruited, spice-accented Spanish red for 45,000 won. 051-627-3484

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HThe Haps

WORD ON THE STREET chOi ji-WOO’s phOtO eXhiBit

Famed Korean actress and Busan city ambassador Choi Ji-woo’s photography collection is once again being exhibited this year. The 36-year-old actress became famous for roles in the Korean dramas Beautiful Days, Winter Sonata and Stairway to Heaven. The collection will be displayed on the third floor of the Taejongdae Observatory in Yeongdo District, from 9:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily. Admission is free. 051-403-1062

FRee shuttle Bus FROm BusaN tO seOul

The free shuttle bus service between Seoul and Busan for foreign residents and overseas visitors will continue this year, though there are a few changes for 2012. The bus runs everyday except Monday, and departs from the Paradise Hotel at 4 p.m. in Haeundae. After its second stop at the Lotte Hotel in Seomyeon at 4:40, it arrives at the Gwanghwamoon Duty Free Shop in downtown Seoul by 10:30 p.m. that same evening. When you apply, you should select your desired date, enter the required information and check your e-mail for confirmation. You are allowed to book two tickets per trip, yet there is no limit on how many times you can use the service. There are some rules and restrictions, so visit english.visitkoreayear. com or call 1577-2507 for more info on this handy free service.

Be caReFul WheRe yOu liGht up

The city government has enacted new laws to curb smoking in public areas. Violators will face a 20,000 won fine, as well as stiffer penalties for throwing cigarette butts on the street. Public places where smoking is now prohibited include bus stops, beaches, children's parks, Geumgang Park, and Taejongdae Amusement Park.

it’s cheRRy BlOssOm time

The cherry blossoms that adorn East Asia start to bloom around the end of March in Korea, which signifies the beginning of the spring festival season. The road that lines Samick Beach Apartments in Namcheon-dong, near Gwangan-li Beach, is arguably the most famous place in the city to enjoy the beauty of spring. Another hot spot includes Young-do Island, where the Chunghakdong Cherry Blossom Festival takes place every spring. For the purist, the Jinhae Cherry Blossom Festival is something that shouldn’t be missed. The festival honors the famous Korean naval hero, Admiral Yi Sunshin, who nearly single-handedly helped defeat the Japanese invasions of Korea over 400 years ago. It usually takes place around the first week of April.

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Local News & Events

al-Fatih masjiD mOsQue celeBRates 32 yeaRs iN BusaN

Those of the Islamic faith in Busan have long found a home at Al-Fatih Masjid, the only Islamic mosque in the city. Located in Namsan-dong, Geumjeong District, the mosque hosts services on Sunday, as well as having daily Islamic lectures. To get there, take subway line 1 to Dusil subway station, take Exit 8, go straight, walk 300 meters and turn right. Al-Fatih Masjid is open from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. (051) 518-9991. www.busanislam.or.kr

lOtte GiaNts pReseasON BeGiNs The hometown favorite Lotte Giants take to the field for the 2012 season, beginning their preseason schedule from March 17th until April 1st. Lotte plays their home games at the 28,500 seat Sajik Stadium in Sajik-dong.

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paRaDise aND seveN lucK casiNOs Our parents used to tell us, “a penny saved is a penny earned.” That is all fine and good, but a penny gambled may very well be doubled or tripled. If you want to take a shot at it, and enjoy yourself in the process, Busan has two major casinos to choose from — the Paradise Casino (www.paradisecasino. co.kr) in Haeundae, or the Seven Luck Casino (www.7luck.com) located downtown in Seomyeon. Visit their websites for the latest gaming action.

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HShort Stuﬀ

National

iN the NEWS “lOve hiGh” set tO pRemieRe iN maRch Yoon Suk-ho, producer of such TV drama hits as Autumn Fairytale and Winter Sonata, is set to bring his latest yarn to the airwaves, with Love Rain. The show takes a look at the innocent emotions of love during the 1970’s, as well as modern romantic mores in Korean society. The show will feature famed actor Jang Geunsuk and Yoon-a of Girls’ Generation. It will run on KBS TV, with a tentatively scheduled premiere of March 26th.

caNaDiaN tuRNs himselF iN

A 38-year-old Canadian has confessed to a 2009 murder in Seoul, where his then 21-year-old Korean girlfriend drowned in the Han River. The man fled the country after the murder, which had been ruled an accidental death by local authorities. Feeling remorse, the Canadian returned to Seoul and turned himself in to the Yongsan Police Department in January, claiming he drowned the victim when she refused to marry him. Charges are now pending..

chaNel tO Raise pRices - aGaiN

Leading French fashion retailer Chanel will raise prices on their Classic and Vintage 2.55 handbag series by about 10 percent according to the company, with the price of a Vintage 2.55 bag rising to 7.4 million won. Even with the price hike, demand for the bags remain strong in Korea. There are three Chanel Boutiques in Busan, which are located at the Lotte Hotel in Seomyeon, Hyundai Department Store in Beomil-dong, and Shinsegae Department Store in Centum City.

KOReaN FOOtBall is BacK

The Busan I’Park are ready to kick off another season of K-League football action. The I’Park are looking to improve on their eighth place finish last year, which secured their first playoff berth in six years. Their first home game of the 2012 campaign is set for 3 p.m., March 10th against Jeju United. I’Park’s home pitch is the magnificent Asiad World Cup Stadium in Sajik-dong. For quality amateur football action, the Busan Transportation Corporation of the National League play their games at Gudeok Stadium in Daeshindong. www.busanipark.com

KORea Fails tO meet its tOuRist taRGet

The Republic of Korea failed to meet its target of 10 million visitors in 2011, falling short by just over 200,000 people. Tourist authorities were pleased with an increase of 11% over 2010, when 8.8 million people visited the peninsula. Chinese were the most frequent visitors, totalling 3.29 million in 2011, up nine percent from a year earlier. The biggest increase was Malaysian tourists, which rose 38 percent due to the rise in the number of flights between the two countries. Korea ranks seventh in Asian tourism, following China, Malaysia, Hong Kong, Thailand, Macau and Singapore. China and Malaysia were the only two Asian countries ranked in the top 10 in the world, ranked third and ninth respectively.

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International

thailaND teRROR WaRNiNG still iN eFFect

Though Swedish-Lebanese terror suspect Hussein Atris has been captured, twenty nations, including the Republic of Korea, have yet to rescind their travel warnings in light of possible future attacks in Bangkok. Mr. Atris was arrested on January 12th at Suvarnabhumi Airport as he was about to leave for Lebanon. In a recent poll, 58.1% of local residents said they believed terror attacks could possibly take place in Bangkok.

Korean & World News

OBama calls pResiDeNt lee “a GReat FRieND”

United States President Barack Obama has referred to South Korean President Lee Myung-bak as “one of his closest friends” in a recent interview in the Foreign Policy magazine “The Cable”. CNN’s Fareed Zakaria asked Mr. Obama which five leaders he had become closest to since he took office in 2009. Along with Lee, Indian Prime Minister Manmohan Singh, German Chancellor Angela Merkel, Turkish Prime Minister Recep Tayyip Erdogan and British Prime Minister David Cameron also made the cut.

japaN cONsiDeRiNG BuilDiNG casiNOs

yeaR OF the DRaGON speNDiNG is up

While many businesses are suffering due to the economic downtown around the world, hoteliers and retailers have reported a 30% increase in Singapore. More reason to celebrate in Singapore was the sighting of a double rainbow to start the Chinese New Year, which spanned a few kilometers over Bukit Panjang. In Chinese culture, a double rainbow is considered auspicious and a reason for reflection and meditation.

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A group of lawmakers is now considering a bill that would allow resorts to combine their hotel, shop and restaurant complexes with gambling, in hopes of stimulating the economy. Currently, Japan already allows gambling on pachinko, lotteries and various forms of racing, though many Japanese are forced to visit other countries if they wish to visit a regular casino. Reasons for opposition to the plan include addiction, potential corruption and little economic benefit.

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mateRial

WORLD

K-pOp BOX set

taylORmaDe BuRNeR 2.0 iRON We’ve got a review of where to play golf around the area on page 32, so we feel obliged to steer you towards the right set of sticks to whack the ball around with on the links. The TaylorMade Burner line of irons are built for distance, promising stronger lofts than your typical irons. And, as is important to many golfers, it has a longer shaft than most others, which gives you greater strength and reach when driving to the hole. korea.taylormadegolf.com

Love it or hate it, K-Pop is not going anywhere anytime soon. The planned invasion has hit western shores and it looks to be settling in for the long haul. And just admit it, the songs are catchy and all of us from time to time have found ourselves singing a line or two to ourselves. Now you can get compilation sets, DVD behind the scenes, makeup tips for men, and a whole slew of K-Pop selections from entertainers that would have made David Bowie proud – at least visually. You can choose from a wide selection online at www.kpopheaven.com

NeW FuRNituRe Spring will soon be upon us (not that soon unfortunately) and that means it’s time for “spring cleaning.” Why not just clean your whole place out and start anew with a nice living room set? As Ikea gets set to open its first store in Seoul later this year, the country’s taste in furniture is catching up with the international trend towards sleek and modern. If you want to upgrade your interior, Orange Plaza in Haeundae is a great place to start. After a bit of wading through holdout styles from the 70’s and 80’s, you can find some stylish pieces to spruce up your pad this coming year before the world ends.

the GlOBal haWK The Korean government recently passed on purchasing the system, but why should you? Think about it: there you are, sitting on the sofa, deciding whether to go out or not. Just grab your remote-control display, get your Global Hawk airborne, and see if the traffic is too heavy, or if the beach is too crowded before you go to the trouble of getting your things together and going out. The Global Hawk system is available exclusively through Northrop Grumman and will run you $442 million, but the price comes down if you buy them in bulk. www.northropgrumman.com 2011 18 | HAPS_winter 2012

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Regulars

a FeRRaRi... Bicycle If you can’t afford the fourwheel version of the famed Ferrari brand, take yourself for a spin on the two-wheeler. Designed by world famous Colnago Bicycles, the marketing team at Ferrari decided to create a class of bicycles worthy of bearing the Ferrari name. Prices vary depending on the models, ranging from road racers to mountain bikes to cruisers. You can order one on amazon.com, gmarket. com or pick one up at a local bicycle dealer and then proudly proclaim, “Amo la mia bicicletta!”

FishiNG Reel If you have yet to go fishing in Korea, here are two great reasons to give it a go: Busan sits at the tail end of Korea’s longest river and well, it’s right on the sea for crying out loud. You could just rent your fishing tackle at several spots around town, but it’s not nearly as rewarding to land that big fish on someone else’s equipment when you could have the pleasure of doing it on your own gear. The Japanese brands Shimano or Daiwa are your best bet for dependable reels. You can pick one up, along with the pole, at any sporting goods or tackle shop around town.

a BReathalyzeR ROpeless jump ROpe Perhaps the inventors of the cordless phone were looking to redeem themselves for all of the extra kilos the general population has put on since no longer having to walk across the room to a ringing phone. Whatever brought this odd invention about, it’s great for the workout at home, with no rope fwap-fwapfwapping away on the floor and disturbing the neighbors downstairs. Besides, who is going to use something like this outside anyway? There are several different brands at sporting outlets running from $20-$50. busanhaps.com

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Out for a few drinks after work? Not sure if you should take a cab or get behind the wheel? Make sure you’re good to go with the the BacTrack Breathalyzer. It also comes in handy when you want to prove to your date that you really do love them and it is not just the alcohol talking. You can pick a BacTrack up in most department stores, or on the Internet for about $100. Much less costly than getting stopped at a police checkpoint, or losing the confidence of the one that you say you love.

Fully BOOKED By Stephane Turcotte

Literature Review

Fully Booked is Busan’s used bookstore with coffee, wine, and beer to enjoy alongside board games and a growing collection of books available for purchase or trade. We also enjoy good tunes and provide a non-smoking environment. Come on by for a pint, a glass or a good read. Fully Booked is located in Kyungsungdae. Call 010.4469.9658 for detailed directions.

huNGeR Games By suzaNNe cOlliNs “Panic begins to set in. I can’t stay here. Flight is essential.” Dystopian future? Check. Battle to the death? Check. Love intrigue? Check. On the surface, this novel appears to have all of the elements that are sure to make the coming movie (directed by Gary Ross and due in March 2012), a blockbuster success. We are thrown into the future where North America is divided into repressed regions and each must send tributes for a giant death match. I really wanted to love this book. Perhaps, I can surmise that this is one of the rare instances where the movie might be better than the book. To be fair, upon beginning the novel, I had no idea that it was listed as young adult fiction. However, I soon found that out the hard way as it certainly reads that way. Far too many of the themes are overstated, the dialogue trite at times, and the narrator’s comments about her clothing/ appearance can be grating. Still, if you’re able to get past those issues, a page-turning narrative does emerge at the halfway point of the novel – it just takes an awful long time to get there. We are teased into reading more as each chapter ends abruptly, and hastily beckons the next. In this time, what does come across are some truly unforgettable characters, from our narrator/heroine Katniss (rebellious and stealth) to her drunken mentor Haymitch. To quote one of my students as she read the novel, “I hate this book…but I want to read more!”

mapheaD By KeN jeNNiNGs “It’s a book about people who like maps.” Ken Jennings is one of those people. You may not know him by name, but in my household he was a “Legend” (capital “L”). During 2004, he broke all of the standing Jeopardy! records when he won an amazing 75 episodes in a row. His knowledge of the trivial was second to none, and soon thereafter, he published his first book, Brainiac (not surprisingly about trivia). For his latest work, he has turned his dedicated geekiness towards his childhood passion: Maps. What follows in this book is a treatise on map-lovers with each chapter meandering to explore some different niche of the map world. Jennings surveys diverse angles across time, including the history of map-making, geocaching (look it up), and the uber-competitive National Geographic Bee (hosted by none other than Alex Trebek). Some of these kids even put Jennings to shame. Additionally, he explores how maps shape our experience with the world, and also how we project them into fantasy and sci-fi with what he calls the “unreal estate”. If your atlas was your favorite book growing up, or your favorite parts of Lord of the Rings were the maps, this book is for you. 20 | HAPS_winter 2012

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Advertorial THAI MASSAGE

JUNOBELL OFFICETEL

MARIS BUFFET

JANGSAN SUBWAY EXIT 10

A SLICE

oF THai The Thai Massage in Haeundae, all decked out.

t’s fair to say that one of the saddest places on earth is the departure terminal at Suvarnabhumi Airport in Bangkok. I have experienced this death-of-holiday melancholy several times when, after checking in, passing through immigration and then security, it hits you all at once: you are going back to your life and leaving this wonderful piece of the planet. I was therefore quite happy I discovered that a small chain of four Korean massage shops here in Busan have gone to great lengths to recreate the Thai massage experience, including importing Thai masseuses, to answer the growing trend of Koreans seeking out the health benefits of traditional Thai massage. The sessions, which typically lasts two hours or more, includes the pressing and stretching of the entire body, including pulling on fingers, toes and ears, the cracking of knuckles and spine, along with the masseuse taking a casual stroll up and down the length of the back. There is also the arching of the entire body into bhujangasana, also known as the “cobra position.” In the U.S. and Europe, you are looking at dropping anywhere from $100-$150 for a one hour session, but here in Busan, you can get the real deal from a real Thai masseuse for only $50. The Haeundae shop, the fourth in the area, opened eight months ago with a full complement of nine massage rooms, deep water baths and shower rooms, aroma therapy rooms, and a host of native Thai and Korean masseurs who are required to have been trained at the famous WATPO Thai Traditional Medical School in Thailand. Each shop gives the sensation that you are back in Thailand. “Our shop is like stepping into a Thai temple, it’s very peaceful and relaxing,” said Haeundae branch manager, Noh Ra-mi. The massage rooms themselves are well insulated from the sounds of the outside world, some with private showers and deep water tubs. While I went for the traditional-style massage, Noh said the most popular treatment is the aroma therapy session. Thai aroma therapy massage, unlike the more stringent and physical practice of Thai traditional massage, relies on the use busanhaps.com

of essential botanical oils from flowers, trees and plants which are distilled by a steam process. The combination of smells, the massage, and the light sound of meditative Thai music, is all you need to step away from reality for an hour or two before walking back out into the world in a far better state of mind. All locations are open 24 hours a day. Noh says that the evenings are the busiest times, and customers should consider calling ahead for a reservation, especially on the weekends. During the day, you can walk in and there should be little or no wait. Traditional Thai Massage has four locations around Busan in Haeundae, Nampo-dong, Yeonsan-dong and Yangsan. For more information, including maps and rates, check out their Haps page at busanhaps.com/thai-massage. To book a reservation, you can call 010-4325-4560 or they welcome you to walk in anytime, 24 hours a day.

thai massaGe *Basic Thai (60 minutes): 50,000won *Special Thai (90 minutes): 70,000won (Basic Thai massage+feet or abdomen massage+herb steam ball for back+facial) *Royal Thai (120 minutes): 90,000won (Basic Thai massage+feet & abdomen massage + herb steam ball for back & abdomen+facial+aroma therapy for back) *extra 5,000won for tiger balm (yamong) -See full price list at busanhaps.com/thai-massage 2012 winter_ HAPS | 21

HSocial

ISSUE

KOREA’S HIDDEN

SMokerS BY JAMES TURNBULL

The media has rightly lauded the government’s success in reducing smokers, but have they been less than forthright on the increasing number of women smokers in Korea? Why the hush hush? ike it or loathe it, you just can’t ignore all the smoking in Korea. If you’re a smoker yourself, chances are that you do so much more often than back home. Or, if you’re sensitive to it, ultimately it may even drive you out of the country. For something so ubiquitous though, it’s amazing how much misinformation about it there is out there. Especially on how many Korean women smoke. Take a typical news story. Most likely, it will open with a remark about the world’s highest male smoking rate. A July 2010 Busan Metro article, for example, began by mentioning that the Ministry of Health and Welfare found that 42.6% of Korean men smoked in the first half of that year, against an average of 28.4% for the OECD. Even though the article itself was about a small decrease. In comparison, the reported rate for women was 2.8%, little changed in five years. So, you can understand why that barely got a mention, and why Korea’s Ministry of Health and Welfare has likewise concentrated its efforts on men. After all, the male smoking rate was as high as 79% back in 1980. But that focus is allowing a looming health crisis to go unnoticed. For the reality is that more young Korean women are smoking than ever before – almost as many as 1 in 5, according to estimates by Gallup Korea in 2007. Why the huge disparity with official figures? 22 | HAPS_winter 2012

Partially, it’s because despite everything you’ve read above, actually it’s really quite misleading and unhelpful to talk in terms of a “male” or “female smoking rate”, as rates within each gender can vary wildly depending on age, occupation, marital status, and region. This makes the collection of accurate statistics difficult, and doesn’t exactly lend itself to snappy headlines. Instead, the answer lies in the very interesting fact that that Gallup Korea survey also found that an overwhelming 83.4% of Koreans disapproved of women smoking. Or, in short, the statistics are plagued by chronic under-reporting. Perhaps, this is less of a magic bullet explanation than it may sound – wherever they’re from, even most smokers themselves may disapprove of women (and men) smoking, despite their own indulgences. And nobody likes to admit doing something unhealthy. However, there probably aren’t many countries where people can still express their disapproval by slapping female smokers in the face, as a Korea Times reader witnessed as recently as March 2010. Of course, that would be an extreme case, but it’s not at all difficult to find evidence of how powerful the stigma against women smoking in Korea is – just ask any close Korean friends. Indeed, it’s so strong that even expat women are often affected too (especially those outside of Seoul), despite Koreans usually letting foreigners off the hook for many of the cultural faux pas they make. busanhaps.com

For something more tangible, consider that the 1989 National Health Promotion Law Enforcement Ordinance bans all tobacco advertising, marketing and sponsorship aimed at women and children. Granted, it had noble intentions, but still: it’s a very revealing glimpse at underlying attitudes, in a “No dogs or Chinese allowed” sense. What’s the source of those attitudes? One tempting explanation was offered back in March 1980 by anthropologist C. Paul Dredge in the Korea Journal, who wrote of a Joseon Dynasty king who allegedly so hated the smell of smoke on the breaths of his officials and courtiers that he forbade smoking in the presence of one’s social superiors, an edict that soon found a natural niche in the Korean ideology of Neo-Confucianism that placed females firmly at the bottom. Rooted in the magic “C-word,” with which seemingly everything is explained with in Korea, you can be forgiven for nodding along to that. Alas, Dredge then goes on to point out that this is

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the private must salute at a distance of six feet and keep at least arm’s length when speaking to his commander.” Something to consider next time your Korean boss lights up in front of everyone, while you and everyone else have to use the smoking room. And, why coffee shops are so much more popular among young Korean women than men, for over 20 years the older Korean-style rooms really being the only places they could light up. Which as it turns out, they are doing in droves, despite what you may read in the papers.

The reality is that more young Korean women are smoking than ever before, with as many as 1 in 5 lighting up. rubbish, just a retroactive rationalization of a pre-existing social practice. Instead, he argues that smoking is a way of showing status and hierarchy — either because it’s a form of pleasure, to be denied to inferiors in one’s presence, or because it (literally) alters the atmosphere in the room to the detriment of the inferior, much like a U.S. Marine Commanding Officer “can draw to within two inches of a private’s face and yell reprimands at him, whereas

busanhaps.com

James Turnbull’s popular blog, The Grand Narrative, discusses Korean sociology through gender, advertising, and popular culture, and has become one of the leading Internet sources on those topics, with mentions in Time Magazine, The Washington Post and Jezebel.

2012 winter_ HAPS | 23

H Five QUESTIONS

Ms. Biz. BY BOBBY McGILL

As president of the American Chamber of Commerce in Korea, Amy Jackson brings with her an utterly impressive resume of international experience. She talks with Haps about the Chamberâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s role in Korea, and gives her take on the recently passed American-Korean FTA.

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he American Chamber of Commerce (AMCHAM) has a long history of involvement in the South Korean economy going back to 1953, when it opened its first office here following the Korean War. The organization now counts in its ranks over 2,000 individual members representing over 1,000 member companies doing business on the peninsula. In August of 2009, AMCHAM tapped Ithaca, New York native, Amy Jackson, to take the helm, calling on her esteemed career working in Asia in both the public and private sectors. Ms. Jackson studied government at Pomona College in California before completing her graduate studies at the Johns Hopkins School of Advanced International Studies in Washington, DC – the place back home that she now calls “home.” Following her studies at Johns Hopkins, Jackson took a job with NASA as an international relations specialist. Fluent in Japanese, she was a lead negotiator in numerous US-Japan space agreements during her eight year tenure there. Following her work with NASA, she became the Director of Japanese Affairs for the Office of the U.S. Trade Representative from 1998-2002. She then served as the Deputy Assistant U.S. Trade Representative for Korea until 2005, and was involved in the initial formulation of the recently passed Free Trade Agreement between the U.S. and South Korea. Along with private consulting, she also served on the PyeongChang 2013 Special Olympics World Winter Games Organizing Committee, as well as the World Expo Yeosu Korea Organizing Committee. Jackson now resides in Seoul with her husband and their 7-year-old daughter and 5-year-old son. In her free time, she enjoys hiking Namsan Mountain, exploring Seoul and taking in the local restaurant fare, as well as the local lingo. “My whole family is learning Korean,” says Jackson. “My kids are now practicing in Korean shops and with Korean taxi drivers.” Haps gave her Five Questions.

1. AMCHAM has been in Korea for nearly sixty years. What has been the primary focus of the organization and what are some of its accomplishments? “cOmpaReD tO

teN yeaRs aGO, i have seeN mORe Female RepReseNtatives iN the KOReaN puBlic aND pRivate sectORs, sO i thiNK the maleDOmiNateD BusiNess cultuRe heRe is chaNGiNG. theRe aRe sO maNy Well-eDucateD aND taleNteD WOmeN iN the WORK FORce heRe.”

AMCHAM Korea was founded in 1953 with a broad mandate to encourage the development of investment and trade between Korea and the United States. American companies were on the ground assisting Korea in its efforts to rebuild the country after the war, and have been working here in partnership with Korean companies and consumers for many decades since. This is something in which AMCHAM and its members take great pride. Our primary focus today is on representing the ideas, opinions, and concerns of our members to both the Korean and American governments. This includes providing input on how the United States and Korea can achieve their goals of promoting investment and trade between the two countries, growing jobs, and promoting a fairer and more transparent business environment. AMCHAM has had many important successes in recent years that are of mutual benefit to the United States and Korea. AMCHAM was instrumental in Korea’s inclusion in the U.S. Visa Waiver Program in 2008. Another significant achievement for us was the establishment of our charitable foundation called the Partners for the Future Foundation. This organization was founded in 2000 to help Korean students from unemployed families in the aftermath of the Asian financial crisis. The Foundation has since raised over $10 million and funded scholarships for more than 1,700 Korean students to attend local universities. busanhaps.com

Last but not least, AMCHAM was at the forefront of the effort to get a bilateral Korea-U.S. Free Trade Agreement (“KORUS FTA”) launched, negotiated, and passed by the legislatures of both countries. We anxiously await the implementation of the historic KORUS FTA and are committed to working to ensure that the benefits of this agreement are fully realized by both U.S. and Korean large and small companies, consumers, and workers.

2. Korea has traditionally had a protected economy, which allowed its domestic business to grow and thrive. What are some of the fears in the Korean business community regarding free trade agreements with much larger economies such as the U.S., the EU and potentially Japan? What are the advantages for Korea in opening their economy up to the world? The Korean economy has been growing and changing rapidly over the last several years. Korean companies are now global leaders in the auto, shipbuilding and IT sectors, and Korean companies are increasingly willing and able to compete with foreign 2012 winter_ HAPS | 25

H Five QUESTIONS

From left to right 1. ACHAM Inaugural Ball 2. With Busan Mayor Hur Nam-sik 3. With BCCI President Shin Jung-taek

companies in their own market and globally. Further, Korea’s economy relies heavily on exports (and notably, Korea’s two-way trade surpassed the $1 trillion mark in 2011), so Korea’s ambitious free trade agenda is important for Korea’s future economic growth. Korean society, on the whole, strongly supports this free trade agenda because they understand it will help create new export opportunities, provide new jobs, and also lower import prices at a time when inflation is of growing concern. Korean policymakers have advocated for more FTA’s by noting that these agreements will encourage more competition and spur greater productivity and innovation by Korean companies, workers and farmers. The KORUS FTA, for example, calls for improvements in regulatory transparency and more consistency and predictability in the market that will encourage more competition, and give both domestic and foreign firms greater security in planning their business strategies and pursuing new investments in the Korean economy. This will benefit the business community and consumers alike, as well as attract more foreign investment into the nation. There has been a lot of focus over the last year on Korean small and medium-sized enterprises’ (SME’s). Korean SME’s also stand to gain from the KORUS FTA. In a recent interview, the Chairman of the Korea Federation of Small and Medium Business (Kbiz), Kim Ki-moon, stated that the KORUS FTA will not only increase Korean SME exports to the U.S, but also expand opportunities for Korea’s SME’s to form partnerships with U.S. companies, allowing technology transfer and more foreign direct investment into the Korean economy. That said, no free trade agreement can benefit every citizen in any country. In Korea, there are concerns that the agricultural sector could be harmed because of Korea’s FTA’s. But the Korean government, like the U.S. government, has introduced various policies to help ameliorate any negative effects of its FTA’s and to assist farmers and companies as the Korean market opens. I have recently read about how some of Korea’s local provinces are planning to use FTA’s to promote their local products in foreign markets for the first time. Such initiative show that even the agriculture sector can gain by becoming more globally competitive and finding new markets overseas.

men, more so than any other country in the G20. As a woman heading the American Chamber of Commerce here, what has been your experience working in such a male-dominated business culture? Have you seen many changes in your time here in Korea? Compared to ten years ago, I have seen more female representatives in the Korean public and private sectors, so I think the male-dominated business culture here is changing. There are so many well-educated and talented women in the work force here! AMCHAM is proud that U.S. companies have been a favored place to work for Korean women, as our companies have been leaders in providing Korean women with excellent opportunities for growth and advancement. Examples abound. FedEx Korea is led by an outstanding female Korean leader, Chae Eun-mi. Pfizer Korea has been in the news recently for promoting one of its local female executives to a management position in its New York headquarters. In 2011, more than 19 percent of those promoted in GM Korea were women, which is a record for the automaker. GM Korea now has about 900 female employees, more than tripling the number in 2002. The Korean government has implemented various policies to create a level playing field for women in the workforce, but I think one of the biggest challenges here is societal attitudes toward working women. One of these (which is, indeed, found in many places in the world) is the expectation that working women should work all day and then go home and do all the cooking, cleaning, and childcare. This attitude is one that must change for working women here to be successful. A number of Korean working women have confided in me that they think they may have to give up their careers because they cannot balance “work” work and “home” work. Some have said that they do not want to have children because having a child will mean they have to give up their careers. It is clearly in Korea’s interest to pave the way forward for all the bright and talented Korean women who aspire to have a career and a family – and one of the key steps to reach that goal would be to change Korean societal views on women and their “jobs.”

3. The Korean business community is dominated by 4. The world’s largest retailer, Wal-Mart, sold its sixteen Korean locations, packed up iN KORea, FORmiNG mutually-BeNeFicial and went home, citing a difficulty in the local market. If a leRelatiONships aND tRust aRe impORtaNt penetrating viathan like Wal-Mart can fail here, it iF yOu aRe lOOKiNG FOR lONG-teRm might very well make other businesses weary of expanding into the Korean success. as With aNy OtheR FOReiGN market. What advice would you give to maRKet, eFFORts tO uNDeRstaND the businesses that are considering expandKOReaN maRKet aND cultuRe aRe NeeDeD. ing here on the peninsula? 26 | HAPS_winter 2012

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There are many reasons for Wal-martâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s departure from the Korean market. What is more indicative of the vast business opportunities in the Korean market are the growing number of foreign companies that are entering, expanding, and thriving in the Korean market. Costco, for example, is doing very well in Korea. Indeed, its Yangjae store has the highest sales per square meter of any Costco in the world. In Korea, forming mutually-beneficial relationships and trust are important if you are looking for long-term success. As with any other foreign market, efforts to understand the Korean market and culture are needed. Korea is also a fast-paced country (bballi-bballi culture!) with rapidly changing market conditions, so quick decision making is also important. For U.S. companies interested in entering the market, we advise them to take time to learn about the local population, network with U.S. firms already doing business here to get as much insight and connections possible, and be sure to take advantage of all the resources that are available to help them succeed in the Korean market. There are a number of AMCHAM members who can provide valuable advice and know-how for companies interested in investing/expanding in Korea. Further, the Commercial service at the U.S. Embassy, as well as several Korean government organizations such as Invest Korea (KOTRA), also provide various kinds of support to U.S. companies investing here.

5. The business culture in America and Korea are often cited as being quite different. What are some of the most common difficulties that Americanrun businesses have doing business here? What are some of the advantages and benefits? One of the key complaints of foreign companies doing business in Korea is the lack of regulatory transparency. Too often, new rules that affect foreign firmsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; ability to do business are enacted in Korea without sufficient notice, or involvement of the foreign business community. It is essential that the government make greater efforts to ensure that new policies and changes to existing policies are developed and implemented in a way that allows all stakeholders, both domestic and foreign, a chance to provide meaningful input into the process. In addition, there are still areas in which Korea is creating and/or adopting new standards that are unique to Korea. This can make it difficult for foreign companies to do business here. Having to dedicate one production line for the Korean market, and a separate production line for the rest of the world, is not cost efficient for foreign or domestic companies. Korea has been moving more toward the use of international standards over the last few years, and we hope this trend will continue. Most of these issues are addressed by the KORUS FTA, so we are eagerly awaiting the implementation of the agreement. busanhaps.com

2012 winter_ HAPS | 27

HCover STORY

Poko LaMBro:

BUSAN &

BeYoNd BY JIM BATCHO PHOTOGRAPHY BY BEN WELLER

Busanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s favorite music couple, Anthony Garcia and Violet Lea, together known as Poko Lambro, will leave Busan to take their talent out into the world. Those who have heard them, and know them well, will wish them success on their journey, but feel slightly mad as hell that they are leaving us.

| HAPS_winter 2012 28 | HAPS_winter 2011

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HCover STORY

ne Wednesday in March 2009, I walked into Ol’55 Tavern for Mike Edmunds’ open mic music night. He told me there was a new couple in town named Anthony and Violet who were going to play. Great! I thought, new blood. When it was their turn to play, I sat down in the corner of the bar and watched them set up. Before they played a single note, it was obvious that these two were different. They were gracious and confident and they handled their instruments like pros – they were at home on the stage. And then they played, and my jaw fell to the floor. Within 90 seconds of hearing them play, two distinct thoughts entered my brain. First, this changes everything. Second, I will play with these two. Both came true. They changed the music scene in Busan, and not only do I play with them often, but they have become two of my best friends. So why am I the one writing this article? I don’t know. Bobby asked me to and I said yes. You see, Poko Lambro, Anthony Garcia and Violet Lea, are leaving this March to go back to Texas. And I’m very pissed off about it. But the least I can do for them, for all they’ve given me, is send them off with a document of how they came, how they affected our close-knit community of expats, and what lies ahead. Anthony and Violet met at Acuff Studios near Lubbock, Texas in 2007. Violet was recording her own songs and Anthony arrived to pick up his finished album. It was the seed of a relationship that developed over subsequent chance encounters in the Lubbock music scene. “I was really interested in him as a songwriter,” Violet says. “I was new to it and I wanted to know what that process was like for him.” One day, the two were sitting at a cafe and Anthony said he had to leave for a gig. “I just said, you wanna play with me tonight?” That gig marked the beginning of their performing relationship, which eventually evolved into a personal one. Early on, they were 30 | HAPS_winter 2012

billed simply as “Anthony Garcia.” At the time, Anthony was already an established performer. “He would get up and play for an hour. Then he would invite me up for like three songs. That was how it started, but it grew from there. We didn’t really become Poko Lambro until we came to Korea,” recalls Violet. They came to Korea needing a change. “We were going through a miserable time,” Violet says. “He was depressed and moody and we were having big problems. We were waiting in line to get into the Grand Canyon and he turned to me and said ‘I’m sorry, for my sanity, we have to go abroad.’” Violet agreed to go “because I loved him. I was going to do what he wanted.” The decision was made right then, but it brought one major concern: they worried they would not have the chance to perform in public. Their worries disappeared when they met O’Brien’s owner Andrew Tennent. “We weren’t here five days when we got our first gig,” Anthony explains. “We walked into O’Brien’s all professional, with our CD and were like ‘Hello sir, we’d really like to play at your bar.’ He just said ‘Wanna play tonight?’ And we came back and played from like 9 until 4.” Recognizing the talent in front of him, Tennent immediately called all the foreigner bar owners in town. “Andrew really helped us out,” Anthony says. “He called Dongha (Kim) for us, and Basement Matt (Liam Cullivan). Pretty much anybody that had a bar, he called them that night and said ‘You gotta get these guys.’” Now, Poko Lambro is regarded as the hardest working foreigner band in Busan. They recorded a double album (East West) in 2010 with the help of Busan talent. And they play as often as they can as a duet or a five-piece (including yours truly on drums, Gino Brann on bass, and Patrick Carle on violin). They play bars, weddings, private parties, and festivals. They play in Busan, Changwon, Daegu and Daejeon. “The thing I really loved, from the moment we came and played busanhaps.com

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Violet and Anthony in their default position: enjoying music together.

the first note, was the crowd and the other musicians,” Anthony explains. “There was just no ego. And that’s the thing I really love about being here. There’s a lot of creativity and a lot of willingness to get together and do things.” When asked about their fondest memories performing, both mention the collaborative events as highlights. Anthony spearheaded a benefit show for Haiti earthquake relief in 2010 that brought together many of the big names in the Busan music scene. That event sparked a trend of subsequent benefit shows and themed events that pulled the expat community together in a way that hadn’t been done before. Members of One Drop East, Hajimama, Klickitat, The Headaches and Defector Frequency have all shared the stage with one or both of Poko Lambro at some point. And they’ve organized benefits and special events with those and other bands. Prior to their arrival, bands tended to stay in their own camps. But they helped spark the strengthening of a community that is both more fluid and more cohesive than before. And now, three years after they arrived, they’re leaving Busan a better place. They will return to Texas, where they will play locally and nationally. After a year, they plan to temporarily relocate to Germany. It’s a return of sorts for both of them – Anthony lived there in the mid-1990s and Violet was born in Nuremberg. While they harbor the familiar concerns about leaving Korea – expenses, health care, losing touch with new friends – they know that now is the time. They came to Korea at a low point, needing inspiration and a lifestyle change. Busan became their nesting place, a chance to find themselves and hone their craft. Now their cups are full and they leave very much on a high. “Korea was our chance to take a breath, say this is who we are,” Anthony says. “Now we can go back and be ourselves.” Violet agrees: “I think we’re both at a place now where we’re ready to be a respected band. I feel like I can go home and kick some ass.” busanhaps.com

2012 winter_ HAPS | 31

HSports

TALK 1.

SeeiNG GREEN:

a GUide To LoCaL LiNkS By Jeff Liebsch

Got some money to burn? Busan and the surrounding area is home to some of the nicest golf courses in the country. Granted, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s gonna cost you.

olf has become one of the most popular sports in Korea, which is not surprising considering the amount of Korean players who compete at the top levels on the PGA and LPGA tours. As one would guess in a country with limited space, it is a sport that is still ordained upon the privileged class. There are quite a few local clubs around Gyeongsang province that cater to golf enthusiasts, as well as the large-netted driving ranges and indoor screen golf seemingly on every other corner. If you are looking to shoot a round of the real thing, here are a few local courses that while putting a decent dent in your pocket, will give you a day of serenity (depending on your golf ability) on the greens.

ASIAD COUNTRY CLUB

Just a short trip out of the city in Gijang, is the Asiad Country Club. The 27-hole course, designed by Perry O. Dye, was opened in 2002. Broken up into three sections, the Valley, Pine and Lake courses all provide a challenging day on the links. Facilities: Club house, driving range, tea house, restaurant, pro shop Fee: 160,000 - 195,000 (non-members) 051-720-6000 www.asiadcc.co.kr

Facilities: Club house, restaurant, golf shoes for rent, practice ground Fee: 165,000 - 195,000 (non-members) 055-248-4112 changwoncountryclub.co.kr

DONGNAE BENEST COUNTRY CLUB

This 18 hole, 6,646 yard course within the city limits in Dongnae, was opened in 1971. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s easiest to find if you exit at the Namsandong subway, and it is located next to Chimrae Hospital. It is also known to be one of the more beautiful courses in the country, due to the large amount of cherry blossom trees which adorn the course. Facilities: Club house, restaurant, pro shop, practice and indoor range Fee: 160,000 - 205,000 (non-members) 051-580-0300 www.golfsamsung.com

GIMHAE GAYA COUNTRY CLUB

Nestled in the foothills of Mt. Sineosan, this 13,497 acre course is a quick 40 minutes from the Busan Express Bus Terminal. The 54 hole course has 45 holes open for members, but only nine to the general public. The club is open from sunrise to sunset, but is closed every second and fourth Monday of the month.

Situated across from Geumjeong Stadium, is the 66-year-old Busan Country Club. Originally located in Haeundae, but moved to Nopo-dong in 1971, the 18 hole, par 72 course is a longtime local favorite. It is closed on the first and third Monday of each month.

Facilities: Club house, eight gazebos, driving range, swimming pool, training institute, soccer field, sports playing fields, on-site free parking Fee: 90,000 - 160,000 won (non-members) 055-1330 (English inquiries) www.kayacc.co.kr

Facilities: Club house, restaurant, pro shop, practice range

HAEUNDAE COUNTRY CLUB

BUSAN COUNTRY CLUB

Fee: 169,000 - 189,000 (non-members) 051-508-5001 www.bscc.co.kr

CHANGWON COUNTRY CLUB

Bongrim-dong in Changwon is home to this spectacular 18 hole, 6,370 yard course near Bongrim-sa Temple. Phone and Internet reservations are available, and it is open year-round, though closed on the first Monday of every month. The course is open from sunrise to sunset. 32 | HAPS_winter 2012

This 27 hole course features a classic layout within a natural forest with a beautiful view of the East Sea in Gijang. The facility prides itself in the layout of the course, as well as their service. The course is broken up into three sections: the Golden, Silk and Royal course. Facilities: Club house, five tea houses, 200m driving range, restaurant, pro shop, sauna Fee: 150,000 - 195,000 (non-members) busanhaps.com

HSports

Kt sONic

BOOM HOME SCHEDULE

February 8 - Incheon ET Land February 10 - SK Knights February 14 - Dongmu Promy February 19 - Anyang KGC February 24 - Goyang Orions March 4 - LG Sakers

i’paRK

3. 1. Busan Country Club 2. Highest Country Club 3. Haeundae Country Club

SOCCER HOME SCHEDULE Saturday, March 10 - Jeju United Saturday, March 24 - Gwangju HDC 485C C:0,M:95 ,Y:100,K:0

051-726-8000 www.haeundaecc.co.kr

HDC 425C C:3 0,M:2 0,Y:2 0,K :70

HIGHEST COUNTRY CLUB

This nine hole, par 36 public course in Gangseo-gu offers a scenic, yet difficult challenge. Night lights are also installed, so you can enjoy golfing no matter what time of day you want to hit the greens. Facilities: Club house, sauna, meeting rooms, banquet hall, pro shop, restaurant Fee: 65,000 - 105,000 (non-members) 051-314-7000 www.highestcc.co.kr

TONG-DO COUNTRY CLUB

In nearby Yangsan, this 36 hole course is divided up into the North and South courses. With its close proximity to Busan, you can be surrounded by nature and beautiful scenery in the afternoon, and be back in the city for your dinner meeting. The country club is located near the Tong-do Fantasia Theme Park, off the Gyeongbu Expressway. Facilities: Club house, tea house and spa, putting and pitching area, pro shop Fee: 130,000 - 195,000 (non-members) 055-370-1300 www.tongdocc.co.kr *Please note there may be additional fees for caddies, carts and rentals.

the cheapeR alteRNative If you can’t afford to pay all the fees to play a regular course, why not try screen golf? There are many screen golf places to choose from around the city, and for about 1,000 won a hole, it’s a cheaper alternative which allows you to play at your pace, without the walking or having to worry about the elements outside. Haps recommends the 075 Screen Golf Center, located next to MeWorld in Millak-dong. ph. 051-757-5075

busanhaps.com

paRK ji-suNG vOteD tOp athlete iN KORea

Park Ji-sung narrowly defeated figure skating queen Kim Yu-na to be named Korea’s top athlete of 2011. The 30-year-old Park, who has been a midfielder for Manchester United since 2005, received 57.6% of the vote by helping his team to win their record 19th English Premier League title last year. Kim received 55.9%, the second year in a row she finished second in the voting. Swimmer Park Tae-hwan finished third, followed by ex-Lotte Giant Lee Dae-ho and Arsenal’s Park Chu-young rounding out the top five. 2012 winter_ HAPS | 33

HTravel

INTERNATIONAL

the peaK Location: MTR Central Station Exit J3 tel. 2849-0668 Hours: 10am-11pm Mon-Fri, 8am11pm Sat, Sun & public holidays

HONG

koNG or the first time visitor, Hong Kong can seem overwhelming at first. Yet, the tightly-packed sidewalks teeming with people, the streets and alleyways darting this way and that, the seemingly endless stream of neon signage and the snail’s pace traffic on the roadways, are all part of the charm of one of Asia’s most dynamic and adventure-filled cities. When the British first arrived in 1841, Hong Kong was little more than a backwater made up of about 20 villages and hamlets at the outer edge of the massive Chinese empire. For the British trading fleet looking to expand their own empire, the deep, well-protected harbor made it perfect to settle in. At that time, the local Cantonese called the area hèung-gáwng or “fragrant harbor,” so named after the large number of sandalwood incense factories located around the island-filled sea port. Needless to say, things have changed considerably since then. Now, as one of Asia’s major business hubs, and even the home of Disneyland, Hong Kong considers itself the heart of South Asia and deservedly so. The area is broken up into five distinct districts. Farthest north are the New Territories, where you can find an interesting mix of farming towns, industrial areas and some of the most densely-populated city centers in all of the world. Heading south from there is Hong Kong Island, the heart of the financial center, as well as home to the iconic skyline of mega skyscrapers and the area’s famed shopping districts. Then there is Kowloon, a peninsula that juts south from Hong Kong Island, and is the most populous district in the region with its mix of residential neighborhoods and bustling street markets. Lantau, which is the largest of Hong Kong’s islands, is famed for its natural beauty, including the area’s highest peaks and best beaches. And finally, there are the Outlying Islands, that range from densely populated residential areas to barren rock outcroppings emerging up from out of the sea. Hong Kong has four distinct seasons and depending on the time of year, the temperatures can range from from 9°C to 24°C during winter, and from 26°C to 33°C during summer. Those looking to escape southeast Asia’s otherwise humid tropical climate will enjoy visiting in the cooler months, from January until March. No matter which area you choose to visit, or if you choose to visit them all, Hong Kong is a must stop on your travel itinerary to Asia, and serves as a great hub for heading to Southeast Asia’s wealth of great travel destinations. 34 | HAPS_winter 2012

The Peak is one of the most popular attractions in Hong Kong offering spectacular views of the surrounding city skyline, Victoria Harbor and Kowloon, with its mix of towering skyscrapers and peaceful green hillsides. Getting to the top of The Peak on the tram is actually one of the most exciting highlights of the day. The Peak tram, which has been in operation since the 1880’s, climbs 368 meters on a steep incline and is not for the faint of heart – or stomach. Also, check out The Peak Tram Museum while you’re there. Opened in 2007, there is a great historical gallery divided into 15 theme sections that take you back through the long history of Hong Kong as a major port in Southeast Asian history. For more info, check out www.thepeak. com.hk

shOppiNG Half Day Walking Tour Starts at: Prince Edward MTR station Exit B1. Departs Daily at 2pm. Duration: 3 hours 30 minute

One of the staples for Hong Kong tourists is the shopping. The street markets, such as the Temple Street Night Market, the Ladies Market, Jardine’s Crescent and Li Yuen Street Market, are as fun for people-watching as they are for picking up great deals on just about anything you can imagine. At the Temple Street Night Market, don’t be surprised if you come across an impromptu performance of Chinese opera. There are also clusters of fortune tellers at the Yau Ma Tei end of the street if you are curious about your future prospects. Each of the markets in Hong Kong has its own particular charm where hidden treasures await to be uncovered. Perhaps most important, don’t be afraid to haggle with the vendors. Expect to pay much less than the first offer. If you pay full price, you yourself might become part of local lore. busanhaps.com

World Travel

WiN tWO FRee ticKets tO hONG KONG!

the FOOD Citizens of Hong Kong have the distinction of dining out more than any other people in the world. There is a wide selection of local cuisine, and just about every kind of international fare is available as well. A trip to Hong Kong without trying Dim Sum would simply be a crime. Dim Sum, which literally translates to “touching your heart,” comes in a dizzying array of variety that would take several restaurant visits just to try them all. Our favorites include fried squid with spicy salt, stuffed green pepper with minced shrimp and hot almond steam soup, just to name a few.

Air Busan and Busan Haps Magazine are very pleased to present the contest, “I’M HERE, TAKE ME THERE!”, where you can win a pair of tickets to Hong Kong. The rules are quite simple. Create an image or a photo, with the phrase, “I’M HERE, TAKE ME THERE!” featuring the Air Busan logo, which can be downloaded from busanhaps.com/ gohongkong. Submit your photo or image to hapscontest@gmail.com by March 2nd. We will post all entries on busanhaps.com and the two best entries will be chosen by popular vote. The more creative you are with your picture, the better! The two highest vote-getters will win two free air tickets to Hong Kong, courtesy of Air Busan. Winners will be notified by March 20th. Air Busan flies to nine destinations across Asia, including Jeju, Seoul, Tokyo, Osaka, Fukuoka, Hong Kong, Taipei and Cebu. Visit their website at airbusan.com for more details about booking and flight information. GOOD LUCK!

hONG KONG ON the WeB: www.discoverhongkong.com, www.12hk.com, www.timeout.com.hk, www.hk.asia-city.com, www.hkclubbing.com

FeatuReD RestauRaNt luK yu teahOuse Luk Yu Teahouse, G/F-3/F, 24 Stanley Street, +852 2523 5464. Open daily, 7 a.m. - 10 p.m.; dim sum is available until 4 p.m.

If you are in the Central District, stop in to Luk Yu Teahouse. First opened in 1933, the restaurant’s colonial facade and art deco interior have made it a popular backdrop in both movies and literature. Be prepared though, the service is notoriously bad and the wait staff can come off as a bit intimidating to first time customers, but that has become part of the legend. The fact that Luk Yu rhymes with the popular term of disparagement in English comes as no surprise, as you may want to whip the phrase out from time to time. But just slam another beer and go with the flow. The food is worth it all. A dim sum meal will run you about $15USD a person and the experience is priceless. busanhaps.com

2012 winter_ HAPS | 35

HTravel KOREA

Left to right 1. Hongbeopsa Temple’s giant golden Buddah. 2. Learning and performing the 108 bows. 3. Inside Hongbeopsa Temple.

LIFE THE MoNkS WITH

BY KADY KATONA

The Buddha once said, “Cultivate the good. If this cultivation were to bring harm and suffering, I would not ask you to do it. But as this cultivation brings benefit and happiness, I say, cultivate the good.” It wasn’t until the monk banged the gong and we all stopped bowing that I truly realized how intense Buddhism is. Our robes were drenched in sweat and our hair was plastered to our heads. These weren’t your ordinary bows either. Just ask Emily Moreland, a former English teacher, now graduate student at Colorado State University. “The most memorable part of my temple stay was learning and performing 108 bows; even though my legs were killing me for the next three days. The stillness in the air, the lull of the monk’s chanting, and the sense of community that I felt as I knelt again and again was so foreign to me, yet so fulfilling.” Buddhism is all about overcoming life’s obstacles, be it mental or physical through the power of the mind. It is this uncomplicated and pure approach to life that has drawn people for hundreds of years to the religion. Since its inception in India, Buddhism has continued to spread and develop throughout the world. In Korea, Buddhism or “Tongbulgyo” was first introduced from China in 372 A.D. Temples throughout Korea introduce Westerners the opportunity to experience the lifestyle of a monk (in Korean known as

“Su-nim”) for two days and one night. I stayed at the Hongbeopsa Temple located in Seondugu-Dong in Busan. There, I found myself draped in the traditional robe, dyed naturally in orange with persimmons. The clothes were ideal for sitting cross-legged and meditating, which we did after awaking at 4 a.m. It was a surreal experience, with the frogs croaking in the background amidst the still sounds of the early morning. It might have been the lack of sleep, but there was something deep I felt besides soreness from the bowing. It was like a strong sense of contentment mixed with a splash of serenity. We were told the monks routinely wake up and meditate at that time because it is the calmest, most tranquil part of the day – the time when the Earth’s energy is at its peak. An early breakfast follows meditation, but with all the precision and care of serving the food, we didn’t eat for over an hour after we sat down. Food bowls had to be ceremoniously positioned in front of us and all of the verbal instructions from the monk had to be translated. Once we had our chopsticks and spoon set in the correct bowl, Western volunteers passed the food as we all carefully served ourselves, being mindful to take

the stillNess iN the aiR, the lull OF the mONK’s chaNtiNG, aND the seNse OF cOmmuNity that i Felt as i KNelt aGaiN aND aGaiN Was sO FOReiGN tO me, yet sO FulFilliNG.”

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Destination Korea only what we could eat – monks never waste food. Once we had devoured all of our rice and vegetables (monks are vegetarians) we had to clean our bowls with rice water, a piece of yellow radish and then with water. If we came across any small morsel, it had to be eaten. The monk that guided us throughout our weekend experience was an immensely kind man. His face constantly lit with a smile and a glimmer in his eyes. During our question and answer session, I asked him what it was like to be living so close to a nearby Christian church. He gently scratched his chin and told the interpreter that for the most part, the temple and the church co-existed next to one another without problems. The monk then chuckled and told us how the pastor had brought him a cross – complete with the crucified Jesus – as a welcome to the neighborhood present. The monk said he kept it in his room and thought of it as an interesting piece of artwork. Regardless of your religious background, everyone wants to live a happy life and that is the goal of the monthly Han Na Rae Culture events (www.busanbuddhism.com). Questions & Reservations: E-mail: busanbuddhism@hotmail.com Phone: 010-4104-8390 (Song E) 010-5581-2059 (Denise).

TEMPLE STAYS

korea-wide Looking to do a temple stay? According to templestay. com, Templestay is a unique cultural program which lets you experience the life of Buddhist practitioners at traditional temples which preserve the 1700-year-old history of Korean Buddhism. Here are a few choices around the region which you can enjoy the serenity and harmony of nature, all in one. Beomosa Temple Schedule: 2 days Fee: 50,000 won 546, Cheongnyong-dong Geumjeong-gu Busan (051) 508-5726 www.beomeosa.co.kr

Haeinsa Temple Schedule: 2 days Fee: 30,000 - 50,000 won 10, Chiin-ri, Gaya-myeon Hapcheon-gun Gyeongsangnam-do (055) 934-3110 www.haeinsa.or.kr

Jikjisa Temple Schedule: 2 days Fee: 50,000 won 216, Unsu-ri, Daehangmyeon Gimcheon-si Gyeongsangbuk-do (054) 436-6084 www.jikjisa.or.kr

busanhaps.com

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hOtel DiRectORy

haeuNDae The Westin Chosun Do it right and crash in the same room George W. Bush did. 82-51-749-7000 www.starwoodhotels.com Paradise Hotel On the water, with a casino, excellent spa and a pool. 82-51-742 2121 www.paradisehotel.co.kr Seacloud Hotel Luxury stay, with great restaurants. Short walk to the beach. 82-51-933-1000 www.seacloudhotel.com Haeundae Centum Hotel Near Shinsegae and BEXCO. Good subway access. 82-51-720-9000 www.centumhotel.co.kr Sunset Hotel 72 rooms with, according to the site, “individual design concepts.” 82-51-730-9900 www.sunsethotel.co.kr Novotel Ambassador On the beach. Great ocean view, Murpii Nightclub. 82-51-743-1234 www.novotelbusan.com

Lovely hotel with stunning views from its perch on Dalmaji Hill. 82-51-744-1331 www.hotelillua.com Hanwha Resort Beautiful views of Oryuk-do, the bridge and close to the beach. 82-1588-2299 www.hanwharesort.co.kr Busan Youth Hostel Arpina Opened in 2004, a cheap place to stay for the night. Culture center inside. 82-51-731-9800 www.arpina.co.kr Business and Beach Hotel Located in central Haeundae, with easy access to the local historical sites. 82-51-742-3219 www.bnbhotel.co.kr

OtheR aReas Lotte Hotel (Seomyeon) Lotte runs a tight ship and it shows in the generous customer service here. 82-51-810-1000 www.lottehotelbusan.com Toyoko Inn (Seomyeon) Across from Migliore, comfortable, clean and affordable. 82-51-442-1045 www.toyoko-inn.com

Grand Hotel One of the cheaper spots on the strip, but still at the beach. 82-51-740-0610 www.grandhotel.co.kr

Crown Hotel (Seomyeon) Mid-range hotel decorated in Korean style, good for travellers. 82-51-635-1241 www.fnetravel.com/english/pusanhotels/crown.html

Hotel Illua Dalmaji Hill

Hotel Nong Shim (Oncheonjeong)

Great area around the hotel, head north to PNU for original Busan nightlife. 82-51-550-2100 www.hotelnongshim.com Homers Hotel (Gwangan) Right on Gwangan beach amidst the myriad of cafes, bars and restaurants. 82-51-750-8000 www.homershotel.com Aqua Palace (Gwangan) Beautiful view of the Diamond Bridge, right in the middle of the beach. 82-51-756-0202 www.aquapalace.co.kr Commodore Hotel (Jung-gu) Beautifully designed traditional hotel. Close proximity to Busan Station. 82-51-461-9703 www.commodore.co.kr Busan Tourist Hotel (Jung-gu) Conveniently located next to the train station. Good for a cheap night’s rest. 82-51-241-4301 www.pusanhotel.co.kr Toyoko Inn (Jung-gu) Affordably priced hotel, clean and 10 minutes away from the train station. 82-51-442-1045 www.toyoko-inn.com Phoenix Hotel (Jung-gu) Highly trained staff, close to Nampodong. Popular with Japanese tourists. 82-51-245-8061 www.hotelphoenix.net Elysee Hotel (Jung-gu) Affordable hotel with good amenities. Close to Nampodong.

82-51-241-4008 www.elyseemotel.com Gukje Hotel (Busan Station) About 3 km away from the train station, close to Citizen’s Hall. 82-51-642-1330 www.hotelkukje.com Toyoko Inn (Busan Station) The second location, this one is a minute away from the train station. 82-51-442-1045 www.toyoko-inn.com Paragon Hotel (Sasang-gu) Business comfort, with close proximity to Gimhae International Airport. 82-51-328-2001 www.hotelparagon.com Indy House (Kyungsung University) Super cheap, dorm-style room right in the heart of Kyungsung. 82-70-8615-6442 Busan Central Hotel (Yeonsan-dong) Adjacent to Yeonsan rotary, located 10 minutes away from City Hall. 82-51- 866-6225 www.centralhotel.co.kr

hapsTIP For an inexpensive trip to the airport, there are 19 buses around the city that can take you to the airport in usually less than an hour.

KORea GRaND sale cONtiNues

A total of 77 businesses and 21,800 stores are participating in the 2012 Korea Grand Sale this year, Korea’s largest shopping event for foreign tourists. The festival offers foreigners and overseas visitors a chance to purchase discounted products, free admission to leading attractions, and even receive free gifts. The sale began on January 9th, and runs 52 days through February 29th. Discounts at restaurants, leading department stores and retail shops, hotels, cultural attractions, as well as concerts and events are scheduled, and a part of the revenue is donated to multicultural family support projects. www.koreagrandsale.or.kr

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Accomodation Guide

HOTEL NEWS WestiN chOsuN 67, Dongbaek-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan, ph.051-749-7000 web.www.chosunbeach.co.kr

The Winter Package is still available at the Westin Chosun, with its promotion running until February 29th. With three packages to choose from, the Deluxe A, Deluxe B, or Executive option, you receive a wide range of discounts and benefits, while enjoying the fantastic service and amenities one comes to expect from the hotel.

NOvOtel amBassaDOR 1405-16, Jung-Dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan ph.051-749-7000 web.www.chosunbeach.co.kr

Chef Gerard Mosiniak brings his cooking talents to the Novotel Ambassador this month for a few culinary delights. The Michelin-rated chef, who was once the personal chef of the Rolling Stones guitarist Keith Richards, will be hosting a well-being cooking class, as well as a special Valentineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Day dinner at Ventanas. Reservations are strongly recommended.

lOtte hOtel 1405-16, Jung-Dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan ph.051-810-6430 web.www.lottehotelbusan.com

The Lotte Hotel has plenty of packages available for winter, but what caught our eye is the special martini selection at The Lounge on the first floor. Espresso, Blueberry, White Choco, Kiwi and a special Dirty Martini are all available for 13,000 won a glass. The event takes place until February 29th, and doors open at 7 p.m. until its 1:30 a.m. closing.

seaclOuD hOtel 287, Haeundaehaebyun-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan ph.051-933-1000 web.www.seacloudhotel.com

The Seacloudâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Winter Package is continuing until February 29th, and offers affordable rates right across from the beach. The package also includes discounts to the aquarium, the Tiffany and Camellia cruise ships, and a host of other in-room benefits.

hOtel NONGshim 212-12, Oncheon-dong, Dongnae-gu, Busan ph.051-550-2100 web.www.hotelnongshim.com

Located within a short distance of Gimhae International Airport, the hotel is offering a one night deluxe room Happy Package, which includes two tickets to their buffet. The Korean restaurant Nae Dang also has a lunch time promotion for 24,000 won on its menu, featuring traditional Korean fare. Both packages run through February 29th. busanhaps.com

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NiGhtliFe DiRectORy

Geckos Beach front bar. Consistently good food. HQ Jangsan ph.010-2857-2367 KyuNGsuNG Great bar to get your drink on with some wings. Club Realize Maktum The home for Metal and Rock. Great If Elune is packed, head to Maktum. sound. Miami 88 Almost Famous On the beach. Patio, good service. Funky atmosphere, great staff, live Murpii music. In Novotel. Dancing, drinking, busiBlue Monkey ness class. Ladies drink 1/2 price 7-9. DJ’s on Rock n’ Roll House weekends. Great atmosphere. Two pool tables. Cafe Radio Great view. Great atmosphere. Relax with a book. Sharky’s Club Fabric One of the most popular bars in Live music, warm cozy decor. Pool Haeundae. Winner Haps Best Burger & Darts. 2011. ph.010-4038-2907 Fully Booked Starface Used book store, bar, cafe. Great A classic. Great atmosphere, excelconcept. lent staff, trivia on Sundays. Pool and HQ Bar darts. ph.051-742-0600 Where the real men go to drink and Suntory Japanese BS. Food and drink in a classy setting. Kino Eye Bonzai! Dark atmosphere. Live music on The Wolfhound Pub occasion. No bullshit pours and great food on Long. T Bar the menu. www.wolfhoundpub.com Large bar with pool, darts and cheap ph.051-746-7940 Long T’s. Thursday Party Monk’s Jazz Club Always consistent. A Busan cornerBusan’s only jazz club. Tuesday stone. nights are hot. U2 Bar Ol’55 Caters more to the Korean crowd The best open mic in town on these days, but Wednesdays. still a good place to dance and Painted Chair Cafe lounge out. The art, the atmosphere. Good place to chill. Thursday Party GWaNGaN-li A staple across Busan. Great service. Darts. Beach Bikini Vinyl Underground Spacious night club with dancing Consistently the best spot for live and such. music. Beached Cafe and Sports Bar Zip Code ph.051-924-9662 Nice little spot for drinking. Good Kiwi run. Has in a short time become staff. hugely popular. Great service, awesome view of the beach. Club 3f haeuNDae Dance club looking out on the water. Elegant. Fuzzy Navel Billie Jean On the beach. Usually packed. BurA Haps favorite. Great decor. Ladies ritos & tacos. drink free on Thursday nights. Paris Club Elune Half coffee shop, half bar. Food is Busan’s super club. A must see at good too. least once. Thursday Party Fuzzy Navel Two locations next to each other. Usually packed on weekends. Good Enough said. grub. 40 | HAPS_winter 2012

WA Bar Wide selection of beers all laid out for your choosing.

pNu Crossroads The first foreigner bar. Still going. Open mic Thurs. Interplay Live music, hit or miss if you catch on a good night. Monks Can catch some great Korean indie bands here. Red Bottle Good spot to get a drink, play some darts. Soultrane Home to the HaHa hole comedy open mic. The Basement A Haps favorite. The anchor to the PNU scene.

at hOme

miXeR

Too cold to go out? Having that dinner party and want to impress your friends with your cocktail knowledge? Here’s a sweet drink to keep you warm.

Amaretto-Cranberry Kiss 2 cups cranberry juice cocktail 1 cup vodka 1/2 cup amaretto 3 tablespoons fresh orange juice Ice cubes Mandarin, peeled, separated into segments

seOmyeON Club Fix New super club. International DJs and dress code required. Division 9 Pinball, basketball, darts, drinking, good fun. Foxy Dance club, usually packed on weekends. Fuzzy Navel Similar to the other FN’s. Usually packed. Also has good Mexican food. Judie Nine Brau How about a little home brewed beer? Metal City Pool, darts and live music. Rock n’ Roll Bar A true dive. Good atmosphere. Pool and darts. The Old Record Bar Want to pick some vinyl to play? Go ahead. The Spot Very cool new place, bottle service. Thursday Party Consistently busy. Great place to meet people.

have a listiNG? cONtact us @ BUSANHAPS@GMAIL.COM

DiRectORy & assistaNce Busan Global Center 1577-7716 Tourist Info in English, Japanese & Chinese 1330 Gimhae Airport Tourist Information Center – International 82-51-973-2800 Gimhae Airport Tourist Information Center – Domestic 82-51-973-4607 Busan Station Tourist Information Center 82-51-441-6565 International Ferry Terminal Tourist Information Center 82-51-465-3471 Radio (English eFM) FM 90.5 busanhaps.com

Nightlife Guide

BeacheD BaR (GWaNGaN)

Blue mONKey

Arguably the best view of any expat bar in Busan, Kiwi-owned, Beached, sits right on Gwangan Beach, looking out over the water. There’s always sports on the tube and they have expanded their menu offering some great food, as well as a wide selection of Kiwi beer to wash it down with. www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/beachedcafe-sports-bar | tel. 051-924-9662

(KyuNGsuNG)

The Blue Monkey Bar in Kyungsung has been packing them in lately with resident spinner, DJ NINE. The Monkey has become notorious for their themed parties, such as the Naughty or Nice Christmas bash last year. On the weekdays, it quiets down a bit and becomes more loungy. Ask for the owner Johnny — he always extends a warm welcome.

cluB Realize (KyuNGsuNG)

For the real metal heads, Club Realize in Kyungsung is the place to check out the best in heavy metal that the area has to offer. Although Realize specializes in Metal, it is open to all genres, including hip-hop, electronic, country and rock. A cozy spot with a great sound system to fry your brain.

www.busanhaps.com/ nightlife/blue-monkey tel. 051-611-2888

www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/clubrealize | tel. 051-903-5504

cluB NF (NeW FOXy) (KyuNGsuNG)

In what is billed as an “experiment in community and culture,” Better Magic and Strut! have put together a monthly event that celebrates underground electronics, 808 beats and bass. The stripped down event at New Foxy in Kyungsung is not your usual music gathering, and will satiate your craving for underground sound. Each month features a different guest DJ and variations on the gritty theme of hip music. www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/new-foxy

hapsWORD puzzle

acROss

DOWN

3. Elbows as weapons 4. Regrettable dial 5. Vain validation 7. Expat Staple 8. Rare degree here 9. Sajik natives 12. Rocky relation 13. Cinema seating 14. Pre-CD

1. Buzz cut is fashionable 2. Korean for ‘panacea’ 3. Inedible fruit? 4. The Kim’s continue 6. You’re probably a... 7. Common for breakfast 10. That’s right. I said, ‘yo mama!’ 11. A rare king Answers at busanhaps.com/crossword

“It's like gambling somehow. You go out for a night of drinking and you don't know where your going to end up the next day. It could work out good or it could be disastrous. It's like the throw of the dice.” ~ Jim Morrison busanhaps.com

2012 winter_ HAPS | 41

DiNiNG DiRectORy meXicaN

KyuNGsuNG WesteRN Aussie Burger Burgers, fries and Aussie pies. Burger and Pasta ✔ The original. Great change of pace. Same managment as Thursday Party. Great service. ph.051-625-6651 HQ Bar ✔ Solid, gut bomb Americana. For real men. ph.010-2857-2367 Painted Chair Cafe There’s the art, the coffee and ambiance. ph.051-611-3666

chiNese Ni Hao Chinese Very good Chinese - the real deal.

iNDiaN Shabana Good, affordable Indian food. ph.051-621-4821

italiaN Bon Bon Great little spot next to Kyungsung U. ph.051-621-0906

KOReaN Baekdu Great variety of side dishes. Eu Dae Di Great Korean BBQ, side dishes, the works. Maesaengiga Green algae food. Yes, really. Very healthy. ph.051-622-0611 Naraso Beef bbq’d at your table.

japaNese Chibi Chibi Oknomayaki Good Japanese at reasonable rates. ph.051-904-8257 The Sushi Affordable, quality Japanese food. ph.051-611-4043 42 | HAPS_winter 2012

O’Taco Great Mexican food and lunch specials. ph.051-627-8358

GWaNGaN-li WesteRN Beached Cafe and Sports Bar Good bar fare, great view, right on the beach. ph.051-924-9662 Burger and Pasta ✓ Solid burgers on the beach with good wines. Service always friendly and food consistently good. ph.051-751-6631 Breeze Burns Burgers on the shore. One of several locations. ph.051-754-4670 Guess Who Restaurant ✓ Always busy, the kitchen sink is on the menu. ph.051-757-1213

italiaN Bella Citta Incredible interior, top notch menu and indoor garden seating. Haps top pick. Art gallery. ph.051-711-0010 Pasta e Vino Intimate beachside spot with good Italian cuisine. ph.051-746-2500

KOReaN Shim Hae Raw Fish Market Everything seafood, all in one place. North end of the beach. ph.051-753-6868 Four Season Raw Fish English speaking owner. 2nd fl Raw Fish Market.

Fam Island Sushi Buffet Large selection of sushi on offer. Good quality. ph.051-751-6100

meXicaN Fuzzy Navel ✔ Solid burritos and tacos. Good party spot. ph.051-754-6349

meXicaN Saigon Pho One of the few non-chain Vietnamese spots in town. Across from Starbucks south end.

seOmyeON WesteRN Breeze Burns Chain burgers, but good quality. ph.051-818-4670 Fuzzy Navel ✔ Have a wide variety of Mexican dishes. ph.051-746-6439 Judie Nine Brau ✔ Good beer and tasty side dishes. ph.051-667-7979 T.G.I. Friday’s The regular T.G.I. Friday’s fare. ph.051-805-3164 The Pancake The name says it all. Good all day.

italiaN Buona Oven Pizza Nice, oven-baked pizza and spaghetti. ph.051-904-8239 Florian’s Buffet with a wide selection of dishes.

KOReaN

Korean Natural Food Eating the good stuff that is good for you too. ph.051-751-5534

Buffalo Chicken ✔ Good chicken chain with several interesting sauces. ph.051-805-3512

japaNese Sinshen ph.051-627-9191

Dragon Dream (The Cave Bar) Very interesting decor with nice selection of food. ph.051-646-5924

Ginza ph.051-751-7077

Golm Ok ✔ Korean BBQ. Beef and pork selections.

veGetaRiaN Loving Hut The veggie lovers paradise. ph.051-808-7718, www.lovinghut.co.kr

pNu WesteRN Farmers Burgers People rave about it. Nominated in Best Burger Contest.

iNDiaN Ganesh Small spot with good Indian fare on the menu. Shabana Nice Indian food for cheap. ph.051-517-1947

meXicaN Taco’s Family Small in stature, but great food. ph.010-5688-6303

tuRKish Kebabistan Back to the original great taste from years ago.

vietNamese Pho Nice Vietnamese food in PNU.

veGetaRiaN Loving Hut The growing world-wide chain doesn’t disappoint. ph.051-518-0115, www.lovinghut.co.kr

haeuNDae WesteRN Breeze Burns Big sloppy burgers. Good atmosphere. ph.051-747-4670 Geckos Bar and Grill ✔ Solid food, drink on beach. ph.051-747-3069, www.geckosterrace.com HQ Jangsan ✔ Great pizza and wings. Good stuff. ph.010-2857-2367 busanhaps.com

Restaurant Guide Sharky’s ✔ Busan Haps Best Burger Winner 2011. ph.010-4038-2907

KOReaN An Ga (Korean BBQ) ph.051-742-7852

Starface ✔ British and Indian Cuisine. Great curry, Fish n’ Chips ph.051-742-0600

Cheolma Hanwoo Bulgogi ph.051-709-4000

T.G.I. Friday’s Reliable chain with wide selection of Americana. ph.051-740-6531

Jagalchi Eel ph.051-742-5387

The Wolfhound Pub ✔ Great menu. Excellent variety. Fun bar. ph.051-746-7913 www.wolfhoundpub.com

iNDiaN Ganga Expect to spend some good money, but good food. Namaste Indian fine dining. Good prices, great food. ph.051-746-1946 Ganesh Small place but it’ll do the trick.

italiaN Bella Citta Delicious, real Italian cuisine with awesome interior. ph.051-747-6351 Cine De Chef In Shinsegae. Movies and great food. ph.051-745-2880 El Olive Italian Delicious Italian, close to Costco. ph.051-752-7300 Il Sole Changed ownership. Still has the fantastic view. ph.051-7474523 Van Gogh Terrace Nice view of the water while you eat. ph.051-741-3767

japaNese Gen Sushi Affordable sushi. Good stuff. ph.051-740-6630 Suntory Japanese Great location and delicious food. ph.051-742-5788 Umi ph.051-741-4337 busanhaps.com

Hurgsiru ph.051-722-1377

Maris Great seafood buffet. Across from Primus. ph.051-704-8870 Somunnan Good traditional Korean food. ph.051-746-0003

meXicaN Fuzzy Navel

✔

Good burritos and tacos, fun at night when the crowds pour in. ph.051-746-6439 www.fuzzynavel.co.kr Hello Kimchi Popular Mexican restaurant. Excellent Fajitas. Celebrating only one year, but already very popular. ph.051-701-5199 Taco Senora The original. Ownership changed. Still quality food. ph.051-744-4050

thai Hello Thai You can’t go wrong with Thai food. Coconut milk rules, green curry is king. ph.051-731-5033

veGetaRiaN Loving Hut All organic, all good, all the time. Veggie paradise. www.lovinghut.co.kr ph.051-747-2979

vietNamese Pho Kim Good food at great prices. Great soup, pork bowl. Located in SFUNZ. Open for years. ph.051-740-4868

Fast FOOD

McDonalds (30 locations in Busan) ph.1600-5252 for delivery www.mcdonalds.co.kr

Bennigans (2 locations) ph.1577-4800 www.bennigans.co.kr

Lotteria ph.1600-9999 for delivery www.lotteria.com

Outback Steakhouse (10 locations) ph.1577-0500 www.outback.co.kr

Burger King (7 locations in Busan) No delivery www.burgerking.co.kr Popeye’s Chicken (10 locations in Busan) No delivery www.popeyes.co.kr KFC (7 locations in Busan) No delivery www.kfckorea.com Quiznos (4 locations in Busan) No delivery www.quiznos.co.kr Dunkin Donuts (45 locations in Busan) No delivery www.dunkindonuts.co.kr

T.G.I. Friday’s (4 locations) ph.1588-2590 www.tgif.co.kr VIPS (7 locations) ph.1577-0700 www.ivips.co.kr

RecOmmeNDeD RestauRaNt

Blue saiGON

Mister Donut (5 locations in Busan) No delivery misterdonut.gsretail.com Baskin Robbins (66 locations in Busan) No delivery www.baskinrobbins.co.kr

pizza Dominos 1577-3082 www.dominos.co.kr Papa John’s 1577-8080 www.pji.co.kr Pizza Hut 1588-5588 www.pizzahut.co.kr Mr. Pizza 1577-0077 www.mrpizza.co.kr Pizza Etang 1688-3651 www.pizzaetang.com

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Blue Saigon, located just off the beach in Gwangan-li, has been serving up Pho, the Vietnamese noodle soup since 1997. Though normally associated with the city of Hanoi, where the first Pho restaurant opened in the 1920s, we won’t begrudge them as they deliver great tasting dishes between 10 and 20 thousand won by servers adorning the Áo Dài, the traditional costume of Vietnam. Open Daily, 11 a.m. - 9: 40 p.m. ph.051-755-4205

HDining

Dining News

HAPS Best Pizza winner

VITO ITALIANO

el FUZZY

The votes are in and counted, and the winner for Haps Best Pizza is Homee Delivery in Haeundae. Homee opened in October last year, and has quickly gained a reputation for making a great pie. Owner, Gus Swanda, a Busan resident for the past eleven years, not only cooks the pizza, but also delivers it personally. “Of our several Italian dishes, the pizza has by far been the most popular,” said Swanda. “We are very happy that people enjoy it so much.” Sadly, you can only order the award winning pizza in Haeundae and Gwangan. tel. 051-701-9177

A new spot in Seomyeon, Vito is fashioned in the tradition of the small Italian trattoria. The owner and chef studied at the Italian Culinary Institute in Italy and brought the taste back to Korea. She makes all of her own pasta and adds all of the right touches, not only to the meal, but in the excellent service and the restaurant’s layout and design. tel. 051-806-5868

Fuzzy Navel has always had the reputation for being a great spot for drinks, but over the years, they have garnered a welldeserved reputation for solid Mexican food. They have a wide selection of south of the border cuisine, which all go well with a Corona or a cocktail to wash them down. Multiple locations around town. Check the Haps site for maps and details. busanhaps.com/food/fuzzy-navel

1. Homee Delivery (Haeundae) 2. Costco (Suyeong) 3. Dominos (City Wide) 4. Pizza Hut (City Wide) 5. Someday Pizza (PNU)

Dong-eui Medical Center

Advertorial

Fighting Fat with Oriental Medicine Most westerners have seen all manner of diet fads back home, but few are aware of the benefits of traditional Oriental treatments for reducing weight. Dong-eui Medical Center’s Oriental Esthetic & Obesity Center offers people great options for not only shedding excess weight, but for actually restoring muscle tissue and body shape back to its original state. According to nurse Lee Hei Sung, the weight loss program focuses on the long term rather than a quick fix. “This program helps reduce the ‘yo-yo effect’ of dieting by ensuring natural weight loss,” she said. “Our program keeps the the body slim without any of the side effects by correcting unhealthy habits.” Along with herbal therapy, the Oriental method includes several types of painless acupuncture that infuses the body with herbal remedies that stimulate the lipolytic processes that occur in the body naturally. There is also a very interesting form of acupuncture to the ears which acts to suppress hunger by stimulating the region of the brain where hunger occurs. Along with a regiment of multi-vitamins and herbs to help the body better do what occurs naturally, there are other herbal mix44 | HAPS_winter 2012

tures that help stimulate body metabolism, as well as increasing your body’s ability to absorb essential nutrients into the system. While this all sounds good, don’t think that you are getting off easy with an effortless weight loss program — there is exercise involved, too. The program at Dong Eui includes a personally designed exercise program that can be done in the exercise therapy room at the hospital or at home. Finally, the program includes remedies to help your skin look younger. “With this treatment, we can improve the shape of your face, as well as reduce wrinkles by helping the circulation in your muscles and skin,” said Hei Sung. So, if you have been putting off that New Year’s Resolution to rid yourself of those extra pounds, contact Lee Hei Sung at Dong Eui Medical Center to get started looking better right away. The medical center offers complete English service and is located near the Yangjeong subway station on line 1. You can contact Hei Sung for an appointment by phone, 051-850-8941 or 0109457-8941 or by email at imc8941@demc.or.kr. busanhaps.com

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HAEUNDAE

area

GWANGAN-LI

area

PNU

area

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KYUNGSUNG

area

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HLast Word

Regulars

THARP ON: FOOD

By Chris Tharp Illustration by Sarah Elminshawi

Let me proclaim this loud and clear: I absolutely love Korean food, in all of its pungent, prickly, zesty, pickled, be-tentacled goodness. My heart goes into spasms as those side dishes are carefully laid out in front of me, and I dig in with the desperation of a P.O.W. chowing down his welcome home meal. I mean, what’s not to love about it? It’s fresh, sour, sweet, savory, wonderfully textured, and low in calories. Just look around. There’s a reason why Koreans – who may be the chunkiest of all Asians – are still thin. Sure, it’s genetics, but how do you think those genetics got programmed? By diet, of course. You want to know something else? Koreans love their food more than I do. They love it so much that they are on a non-stop campaign to make the rest of the world adore it too. Remember those embarrassing commercials on CNN International awhile back, where uber-famous singer Rain, in sad, halting English, tried to convey to the rest of humanity the subtle wonder of bibimbap? Now I eat the hell out of bibimbap several times a week, and understand the Korean “Let’s Make the World Respect Us More” Commission’s reasoning behind the campaign, but

In my humble estimation, food is culture. You will never truly understand what makes a people really tick until you eat not just what they eat, but how they eat. Korean food isn’t necessarily a meat orgy, but most any dish will at least have a bit of fish or shrimp as a flavor base. I have eaten kimchi made without anchovy paste, and guess what? It is nowhere as delicious as the real thing. By rejecting the cuisine, you are, in a way, rejecting the culture. That said, I don’t get down with everything the locals eat. Bongdaegi (silkworm pupas) is just awful and were only ever eaten because there was no other protein to be had. Hey Korea: You aren’t poor any more – you don’t gotta eat bugs. Hong-eo (fermented skate) literally tastes as if it was soaked in cat piss for a year. I’ve never eaten boshingtang, or dog in any form and never will, but every once and a while I meet expats who not only admit to trying it, but brag about eating if often and how “delicious” it is (which you know is a load of horse crap). And last but not least, are the array of lamentable holiday specialty treats Koreans drag out on every red day (you probably already know my opinion on ddeok—see Tharp On: Holidays): bizarre hand-cakes stuffed with sweet black bean mush, flavorless nut snacks, and maddeningly bland biscuit-y things made from desiccated popcorn and bird seed. Again, relics from grandpa’s day: “Oh, when we were young, we had no money for treats. We would eat the ox-dung dipped in ant-honey. Very delicious.” But these are just quibbles. I love most everything else on the Korean table and take it down with gusto. As the locals often say when I join them for nakji bokkum (small spicy octopus) or godingeo jo-rim (mackerel steamed with radish): “Oh! You are almost Korean!” But I can’t end this rant without one more, minor gripe, and that’s this: Less gochujang (red pepper paste) please. It can be tasty, but you don’t have to slather the stuff over everything you cook. While there are spicier cuisines in the world (Indian and Thai spring to mind), the preponderance of gojuchang in the Korean kitchen has a cumulative effect. Sometimes, when “evacuating” some dishes, I feel as if I’m fire-bombing the Ho Chi Min Trail. I can almost hear my ass sizzling. And what’s going to happen after 20 years of such a diet? I’ll tell you: My shriveled, calcified O-ring is going to look like a small piece of squid, covered in rock salt and then blasted by a blow torch. And that’s a vision that none of us want to ponder, now do we?

the preponderance of gojuchang in the Korean kitchen has a cumulative effect. Sometimes, when “evacuating” some dishes, I feel as if I’m fire-bombing the Ho Chi Min Trail. like many things Koreans do, it was just, well, a little overcooked. In the end, I’m sure it did more harm than good. Korean food is awesome, but not everyone thinks so, which is fine I guess, but it puzzles me when foreigners move here and reject the cuisine outright. I’ve met a fair number of Western folks who say to me, “Yeah, Korea is cool, but I just can’t get down with the food.” Hmmmm… These are the same people whose year or two in Korea causes them to pack on kilos faster than a sumo champion training for a title bout. Twenty four months of mac and cheese (Kraft Dinner for our Canadian brothers and sisters), double Quarter Pounder with Cheese sets, and T.G.I. Friday binges will do that to a person. Ah, the mysterious East. What do they tell mom and dad when they waddle off the plane? That kimchi gives them a glandular disorder? What gets me more are the vegetarians: Don’t get me wrong - some of my best friends here are and have been vegetarians. Hell, years ago I was too, but that was only because I dated one and went to a very hippy-dippy Seattle arts college. So I understand vegetarians’ many noble reasons for abstaining from meat and fish and the like; I even go so far as to APPLAUD this decision (clap clap). However, there’s just one little question rapping at the door inside of my brain: If you are a vegetarian, why on earth would you ever move to Korea? Why??? 48 | HAPS_winter 2012

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