Haps Magazine Issue 19 by Haps Magazine

CONTENTS

On this page:

Charlie le Mindu

FEATURES

Goodbye Madame Butterfly | 18 Life of Brian: Aylward on Korea, Comedy & Soju | 20 Charlie le Mindu | 24

REGULARS

SPORT

Let the Games Begin | 28 Five Questions: Matt McKay | 29

TRAVEL

International: Protecting Pachyderms | 30 Korea: Yeosu World Expo | 32

COMMUNITY

Sharing Cultures | 34 Expat Extracts | 35

FOOD

The Dish: Half-Baked | 21 Patbingsu | 37

MUSIC

Music in his Genes | 38 Welcome to Rob Rock | 39

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EDITOR’S LETTER We didn’t want to make a big deal about it, but three years ago, Haps was born. Though originally dubbed Haeundae Haps for what I thought was a clever alliteration (and because that’s where I live), it became Busan Haps just before going to press, and then, later, simply Haps. Or, in the Korean lexicon, Hap-su. Much like this third issue is special to me, the number three holds a certain place of prominence for people on the third planet from the sun. There is the Western belief that “three’s a charm”; Christianity has the Trinity and the three wise men; in Islam, during wudhu, the hands, arms, face and feet are each washed three times; in Hinduism there is the Trimurti of Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva; there are three blind mice, three little pigs, Goldilocks and her three bears, Three Mile Island, Three Dog Night, past, present, future, red, yellow, blue and the love triangle. According to Pythagoras, the number three, which the Greeks call triad, is the “noblest” of all numbers. This because it is the only number to equal the sum of all the numbers below it, and the only number whose sum with those below equals the product of them and itself. On that note, I will close by saying that Haps is the sum of all the people with it, who have made the past three years possible. My sincerest thanks to each and every one of you and you and you.

PUBLISHER Ju Shin-hye EDITOR IN CHIEF Bobby McGill MARKETING DIRECTOR Michael Schneider

ART DIRECTOR Russell McConnell FASHION EDITOR Christy Swain FOOD EDITOR Jen Sotham

WRITERS: Jen Sotham Michael Fraiman Seth Fellenz Hemani Naran Jessica Steele Frankie Herrington Nicole Brewer Chris Tharp James Turnbull Tory Mock Bobby McGill Jeff Liebsch Jordan Mammo Christy Swain

MANAGING EDITOR Jeff Liebsch COPY EDITOR Michael Fraiman WEBMASTER Danny Himes

DESIGNERS: Kelvin Brassbridge II PHOTOGRAPHERS: Ashley Nichole Grillo BMC Jen Sotham Michael Fraiman Devon Parsons Zoe Hitchen ILLUSTRATORS: Sarah Elminshawi www.sarahelminshawi.com Matt Ferguson inkonpaper.org.uk

BUSAN HAPS Summer 2012 Issue 19 BUSINESS REGISTRATION NUMBER: 00001 FIRST PUBLICATION DATE: Sept, 2, 2009 OFFICE ADDRESS: Ocean Tower #1726, 760-3, Woo 1 Dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan, Republic of Korea 612-822 www.busanhaps.com

SUBMISSIONS busanhaps@gmail.com ADVERTISING busanhaps@gmail.com DISCLAIMER: The opinions in the magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher. Questions or comments: busanhaps@gmail.com ÂŠ2012 Busan Haps Magazine 2012 summer_ busanhaps.com

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CONTRIBUTORS

JEN SOTHAM

Jen Sotham hails from New York and has been living in Busan since 2006. Her writing has appeared in magazines, guidebooks and anthologies, including Travelers’ Tales: Best Women’s Travel Writing 2008.

JORDAN MAMMO

Jordan arrived in Busan two years ago to teach English. Since then, he’s been fortunate enough to write for publications such as the Wall Street Journal and Kill Screen Magazine.

CHRIS THARP

Chris hails from Washington State and has lived in Busan for over six years. When not when banging on a guitar or screaming into a microphone, he likes to write. If you buy him a drink he’ll tell you all about the times he met Kurt Cobain, but you probably already know the story.

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CHRISTY SWAIN

A fashion-loving girl, this Kiwi would like to divide her time between Paris and Milan, but for now she’ll settle for Busan, browsing the vintage stores of Seomyeon or the High St. of Nampo-dong.

JAMES TURNBULL

Since coming to Korea in 2000, James has become widely known for his highly respected blog The Grand Narrative. He lives in Busan with his wife and two daughters, Alice and Elizabeth.

THE

Events & Culture

BIG

FIVE JISAN VALLEY ROCK FESTIVAL

JULY 27TH - 29 TH Now regarded as one of the most anticipated events in the summer, the festival enters its fourth year with an incredible lineup of music that takes place at the Jisan Valley Ski Resort in Icheon, Gyeonggi Province. Radiohead, The Stone Roses and Elvis Costello and the Imposters will headline the three-day, eco-friendly festival this year, though there are many other notable Western acts including Owl City, Beady Eye, M. Ward, James Blake, plus many of Korea’s best indie, rock and ballad performers. valleyrockfestival.mnet.com

BORYEONG MUD FESTIVAL

JULY 14TH - 24TH One of the biggest international festivals of the year on the peninsula, the Boryeong Mud Festival is held at Daecheon Swimming Beach in Boryeong City. With its unique shell-powered sandy beach, it allows you to swim and massage with a mudpack at the same time. There are plenty of activities, including mud wrestling, a mud king contest, mud fireworks and mud sliding to go with the beautiful nature that surrounds the city. It’s possibly the most fun you’ll ever have getting muddy in your life. www.mudfestival.or.kr

CHINATOWN CULTURAL FESTIVAL

JUNE 22 ND - 24TH Entering its ninth year, the Busan Chinatown Special Zone Cultural Festival brings a taste of Asia’s largest country to Choryang, Dong-gu, across from Busan Station. Street performances, exhibitions, food and plenty of musical performances are on offer at the threeday festival which is the biggest gathering of the Chinese community in the city each year. For more information in Korean and Chinese, you can visit their website at www.chinatown-f.com

CROATIAN PIANIST MAKSIM MRVICA

JULY 9 TH Croatian-born Maksim Mrvica has released nine albums since 1999 for such labels as EMI, and has built his reputation internaTHE TEN TENORS tionally playing “classical crossover” muJUNE 17TH sic. He is certainly dedicated: when war Australian musical ensemble the Ten Tenors are a rock-opera touring group who broke out in 1991, both Mrvica and his push the boundaries of the classical genre and the definition of a tenor. Sets pit music teacher were undeterred by the sursongs from Queen, AC/DC and Meatloaf alongside native Australian tunes, and rounding chaos and continued to train. they have performed at many major venues like London’s Royal Albert Hall, the Mrvica entered in, and won, his first maSydney Opera House, The Shrine Auditorium and Pantages Theater in Los Angeles. jor competition in Zagreb in 1993 at only They’ve put out 11 CDs over the years and tour on average about 250 shows a year, 18 years old. He will be at the Busan Culso this is one you might not want to miss. They are performing at the Busan Cul- tural Center for one show only July 9. Ticktural Center on June 17 at 5 p.m., with tickets ranging from 60,000 to 120,000 won. ets range from 55,000won to 99,000won. tickets: @ interpark.co.kr or 1544-1555 For more info call, 02-6292-9370 11 2012 summer_ busanhaps.com 9

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WORD ON THE STREET

LIONS ROAR INTO BUSAN

BUSAN NAMED HOST OF 2012 ASIAN SERIES

South Korean baseball has established itself in the eyes of the world in both Olympics and in the World Baseball Classic. Now the country gets a shot to host Asia’s premiere baseball event in Busan. The Asia Series will run November 8 through 11, and will feature representative clubs from Korea, Japan, Australia, Taiwan and China battling it out at Sajik Stadium, home of the Lotte Giants. Busan beat out Seoul and Incheon late last month to earn the right to host the event for the first time on peninsula. The tournament began in 2005 and was hosted in Japan for four consecutive years before difficulties in 2009 and 2010 forced the series to be scaled back. But last year, the series got back on track and Taiwan was host to the first non-Japanese club champion, the Samsung Lions. The underdog Lions pulled off an upset, defeating the heavily favored SoftBank Hawks from Fukuoka, Japan. An official of Busan City said, “To successfully host the 2012 Asia Series in Busan, we plan to give full support to and actively promote the Asia Series. We expect Busan citizens’ renowned passion for baseball to reach new heights during the Asia Series.” As host, the Giants get a pass to the tournament, so we could possibly see the first championship come to Busan since Lotte last won the Korean Series 20 years ago. And that’s a party you do not want to miss!

BEXCO and Lotte Hotel will play host to one of the largest events to ever hit Busan on the convention circuit. Upwards of 50,000 attendees from over 120 countries are expected to descend on Busan for the meeting of the Lions Club, whose members span all demographics from business to politics. Highlighting the event will be a speech from Dr. Margaret Chan, director-general of the World Health Organization, as well as number of other presenters and booths laid out across BEXCO’s massive convention floor. Some of the key events include the Membership Key Awards Ice Cream Social, the International Show, Melvin Jones Fellows Luncheon and the Leo Lion Summit. For more info, you can check out the official website at www.lions2012.com

SUPER SKETCH RETURNS

Described as a “hookup” between artists and musicians,” Super Sketch brings together art and music through the prism of a special concept or theme that allows partygoers to enjoy an extrasensory audio-visual experience. Both the art and the music is live, which adds to the feeling that you’re actually part of the art itself. At Super Sketch, the audience is treated to a mashup of highenergy live music performances while live visual art is projected onto overhead screens simultaneously. The effect is almost hallucinogenic. Everywhere you look, there’s something to feast your eyes and ears on. Along with the music and visuals, Super Sketch parties also feature a craft market where various artists’ works are on display and sold. The Super Sketch also offers screen printing services and individual artists to create promotional work, as well as custom embroidery services. Super Sketch takes place July 23 at Fabric in Kyungsung. Advance tickets are 16,000won and 20,000won at the door. For more info, check out: www.supercolorsuper.com 10 HAPS_summer 2012

Community & Living

MAYOR’S CUP SURFING COMPETITION

The sand and sea of Haeundae beach will once again be teeming with international surfers looking to take the trophy at this year’s Mayor’s Cup, June 29 through July 1. Last year, due to a miscommunication between city officials and the beach patrol, the competition was actually cut short for fear of safety concerns because the waves were too high! Granted, there was a typhoon off the coast, but still, the news went viral around the world. That’s been ironed out and the event is set to take place with professional surfers coming in from Thailand, Taiwan, Malaysia and Japan to compete with local Korean and expat surfers. Cheryl Kim, from Kai Surfshop in Gwangan-li, a co-sponsor of the event, is excited about this year’s competition. “We are all very optimistic that this year’s competition will cement Korea’s position as a surf destination in Asia.” For more info you can visit www.ksasurf.org or email Cheryl at cherylkim2009@hotmail.com

ARE YOU READY FOR SOME FOOTBALL?

Sixteen European nations will vie for the crown in the 14th European Championships for football. The tourney is being cohosted for the first time by Poland and Ukraine in eight host cities. Spain will be looking to defend their 2008 victory and are making a strong push to add more hardware to their impressive resume, though Germany has the title for most championships with three. The games start well into the night due to the time difference, but if you can’t make it out to the pub to watch, you can always try to catch it online with English commentary, or locally, which will be shown on KBS N Sports. 2012 summer_ busanhaps.com 11

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IN THE NEWS

STARBUCKS PRICES CLOSER TO THE STARS You may not have noticed, but Starbucks Korea added 300 won onto 32 of its drinks on May 7. In a statement, Starbucks reps cited rising rent and milk prices, as well as inflation generally, as causes for the inevitable price hike, which perhaps not coincidentally included the company’s five best-selling drinks (the americano, cafe latte, caramel macchiato, cafe mocha and green tea frappuccino). To its credit, Starbucks also marked down a dozen or so beverages by 100 or 200 won, but almost all of them are totally unpopular. (Lavender Earl Grey, anyone?) The coffee giant’s decision followed a similar move by Caffe Bene, the ROK’s most ubiquitous coffee chain, though this price jump has yet only affected its most popular location in Gangnam, Seoul; however, with Starbucks paving the way, customers worry that Bene and others will follow suit. Holly’s Coffee, Angel-in-Us and The Coffee Bean have specifically made no comment as of yet, and the Fair Trade Commission will reveal by July whether or not collusion is suspected. (To be honest it’s likely not, and moreover note that the last time Starbucks Korea raised its prices was over two years ago, on New Year’s Day, 2010, when, again, their most popular drinks’ prices were inflated by – you guessed it – 300 won.)

PRINCESS DI LIVES ON IN THE QUEEN Until October 21, if you’re in London, you can spy a Korean artist’s composite of Queen Elizabeth II that is taller than ShaPOLL: KOREANS WANT ALPHABET DAY OFF quille O’Neal (at roughly 7’3”) and wider From 1945 until 1991, Hangul Day (recall that hangul is the Korean alphabet, created by than an average American is tall (near 6’). King Sejong in the 15th century) was a working holiday – October 9 to the ROK meant Using 1,106 tiny images of the late Prinno school, no banks, just linguistic and perhaps even lexicographical parties all day cess Diana, Mokwon University art prolong. But in 1991, under pressure from major companies to increase working days, the fessor Kim Dong-yoo, 47, has constructed government renounced the holiday’s official status, and it now rests as a minor gov- an impeccable work of art that is being ernment press release accompanied by a relatively insignificant park parade. included in the National Portrait GalBut according to a nationwide poll conducted in mid-April, 84% of Korean citizens lery’s ongoing exhibit, “The Queen: Art want Hangul Day to return to its former glory and, importantly, they want another day & Image”. His piece, “Elizabeth vs. Diana”, off. No word yet on whether the numbers will have any tangible effect, but the fact marks the only inclusion by an Asian artist that the numbers are 8% higher than the same poll taken last year is telling. in the exhibition of 60 artworks. 12 HAPS_summer 2012

Korean & World News

HERE WE GO AGAIN: FTA TALKS BEGIN WITH CHINA, JAPAN In the aftermath of the much-debated US Free Trade Agreement, discussions began May 13 between South Korea, Japan and China to form an economic pact of their own. The details so far are positive but foggy – really, it’s all just talk – yet the FTA idea remains a decidedly smart move for the three most influential Northeast Asian countries. In 2009, for example, Japan and China made up over 30% of South Korea’s total international trade. But the unfolding of this story won’t be easy. Among the slew of squabbles include Japan calling for more openness than perhaps China is willing to provide, and the fact that both SK DEAD BABY SKIN? and Japan are suspicious of importing Chinese agricultural goods. With luck and patience, the three titans can come I JUST WANTED DRUGS! to an unprecedented economic agreement this year, which In a widely reported story from early May, South Korean border would be doubly beneficial for discussions surrounding that security guards discovered hundreds of smuggled drugs conever-looming topic, North Korea. taining the burnt, powdered flesh of chopped-up dead babies from China. It’s the latest in a total of roughly 17,450 such capsules, disguised as stamina boosters, which have been continually unearthed since last August. But what’s a South Korean government to do? Aside from “strengthening security measures”, a broad term at best, there’s little they can do – Seoul wants to keep things diplomatic with Beijing, which has been desperately trying to crack down on the issue privately, so there’s no finger-pointing yet. In fact, the whole dilemma is disturbingly quiet – the individuals smuggling the capsules were let off the hook on the grounds that their quantities were too small or they were legitimately hoaxed, and in the year that this has been going on, nobody’s reported being sick from the dead baby skin bacteria. The worst that can be said is that the whole situation is just really, really icky.

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HOT STUFF

[2012â&#x20AC;&#x2122;S TOP BIKINI TRENDS]

1. TREND: RETRO

STYLE: High waists, halter necks, polka dots, floral/tropical prints BODY TYPE: Accentuate/Exaggerate your curves Red polka dot halter bikini

2. TREND: RUFFLES

STYLE: Sweet or sexy, floral prints or block colors, bandeau tops BODY TYPE: Adds volume to a small bust or slim hips Floral ribbon trimmed bandeau

3. TREND: METALLIC

STYLE: Cutouts, straps, daring cuts, sheen rather than sparkle BODY TYPE: Definitely for the bodyconfident, athletic, sporty Metallic snakeskin ruched bikini with halter strap

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4. TREND: ANIMAL PRINT STYLE: Leopards and snakes and peacocks - oh my! BODY TYPE: Any. Snakeskin halter bikini

5. TREND: ONE SHOULDER STYLE: Taking the lead from the one shoulder, asymmetrical dress BODY TYPE: Not very supportive so generally for smaller busts One shoulder petal bikini

Style & Beauty

BEACH BEAUTY ESSENTIALS HAIR: TEATREE MINT

Heat and humidity is a pretty nasty combo when it comes to your hair — not to mention the drying effects of salt water. Do your locks a favor and try the Organix Teatree Mint hair care range this summer. While hydrating and balancing this range will also strengthen and nourish your sun-ravaged tresses and scalp. Available from Olive Young beauty stores around the city.

BRONZER: BRUSH ON BRONZE

Not a fan of the pale and interesting look? Brush on summer with shimmering pearl powder beads courtesy of The Body Shop’s Brush on Bronze. Brighten your complexion and add some summer glow with this natural, light-diffusing bronzer. Layer it on your face, cheeks and décolletage with a soft brush to achieve your desired look. Available in bronze and pink tones.

SUNSCREEN: NEUTROGENA ULTRA SHEER

SPF moisturizer is an everyday essential at any time of the year for guys and gals, but it’s time to ramp things up a notch. Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Complete UV Moisture combines SPF 50+ with a lightweight, non-shiny, non-sticky fluid that is so smooth you can even use it as a makeup base. Try the original formula or the sheer tint as a foundation alternative. Available from all the big marts and Olive Young.

LIPS: CHA CHA TINT

If you haven’t tried a lip and cheek stain, this summer is the perfect time to start. Lip-glosses and blush are a great option for color, but when you’re on the beach with hair and sand flying, sticky lips are a recipe for disaster. Cha Cha Tint from Benefit provides the perfect sun-kissed hue of mango for hours of smudge-proof beauty. Available from Benefit counters at department stores or online. 2012 summer_ busanhaps.com 15

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MATERIAL WORLD APPTASTIC! GREAT KOREAN APPS

CANON POWERSHOT A2400 IS

Getting a camera that is compact in size with quality shots is often akin to expecting a summer six pack when McDelivery is the most worn button on your speed dial - usually, it ain’t gonna happen. And while the Canon PowerShot A2400 IS is not the camera that will win you the Pulitzer for photojournalism, it will perform very nicely for those everyday moments around town, on the beach or in the nightclub, where shots are just as clear. And it’s all roughly 150,000 won. The A2400 IS also features Smart AUTO which automatically detects scenes by assessing various factors in both the background and the subject. Detected scenes are analyzed using 32 predefined shooting situations. Smart AUTO also features Advanced Subject Detection, which allows the camera to quickly detect and track nonhuman moving subjects like animals and vehicles. It sports a 5x zoom, 16-megapixel CCD sensor and a sharp, optically-stabilized lens. There is a separate button for easy moviemaking, though the video performance is a little lacking at only 720, but, once again, at such a cheap price the A2400 IS offers more than enough to make it your goto, take anywhere, not-too-broken-hearted-if-you-lose-it camera.

KOREA NEWS. A one-stop source for news about Korea, this app, put together by The Missing Lynx, combs various news sources in real-time. It also allows you to share your favorite stories via Facebook, Twitter or email. You can personalize the news tabs in your app and read particular topics of interest, as well as read content offline from the last time you downloaded. TEMPLESTAY KOREA. This app, put together by the Jogye Order of Buddhism, allows you to experience Korean Buddhist monastic life. The menu bar offers up five options: “What is Templestay?”, “Etiquette,” “Temple Information”, a “Gallery” and “About Templestay”. It comes with telephone numbers, websites and locations of temple stay options around the country all in one easy-to-navigate app.

지하철-JIHACHUL, KOREA SUBWAY

LOGITECH PURE-FI ANYWHERE

The market is brimming with a variety of portable speaker systems running the gamut from too flimsy, to too small, to downright crappy sound. While slightly hefty for being portable at 13x3.6x1.6 inches and 1.6 lbs., the sound and the sturdy build of the Pure-Fi Anywhere make it worth the little extra space in your bag to get it to the beach. Another great feature is the long battery life of up to 10 hours on a rechargeable battery, which features a battery level indicator to eliminate surprises. An included travel case protects and stores the speakers, remote, and streamlined AC adapter. If you don’t have an iPhone or an iPod to plop down into the dock, there is a plug-in jack feeding into the four-speaker system. The Pure-Fi Anywhere comes with a remote control as well, which makes it great to use around the house if your studio is short on space. You can pick one up for around 150,000 won bucks on Gmarket or at most chain electronics dealers. 16 HAPS_summer 2012

ROUTE MAP. A very handy little app that gives you all the maps of each city’s subway system as well as a timetable, transfer information and an area guide. You can use your iPhone’s location services feature and the app will direct you to the nearest subway. It also features multi-language support with English, Korean and Japanese, as well as realtime user reviews about the area nearby the station. KOREAN TRADITIONAL PERCUSSION. Though somewhat poorly put together and lacking in quality sound, this app samples several traditional instruments and allows you to play them simultaneously. If your friend has the same app, you can get a little jam session going or you can listen to a prerecorded tune by Korean fusion band Oriental Express. The app is free and is available in both the American and Korean iTunes store.

Gadgets & Gear

NOTE’D

[SAMSUNG GALAXY NOTE REVIEW] The most - uh - noteworthy thing about the Galaxy Note is its almost irresponsibly huge screen. It comes in at 5.3 inches diagonally and, I’m telling you, this is exactly how big a smartphone screen should be. No longer am I straining my eyes to read blogs and news articles. YouTube is no longer an exercise in absurdity. The real estate in hand is comforting and just right. Not only that, but the AMOLED screen with 1280x800 resolution makes everything - from sharp fonts to HD video - jump from the page with a clarity I didn’t even get on my laptop, let alone any phone I’ve ever had. The best part is that giant screen really doesn’t affect the battery life much. I’m out of my apartment 11 hours a day, and it’s rare that my Note dies before I can get home to replace the battery. However, that screen leads to some pretty sizable compactness issues. While you fit the thing into the pocket of a pair of jeans, you’re going to have a pretty obnoxious bulge in your pants. And that’s without a case. Frankly, I’m dreading having to carry the thing around once summer hits. I might have to start wearing cargo pants for the first time since 2007.

A great feature is how goddamn fast the thing is. I got a relatively cheap 4G plan from U+, and that combined with the Note’s 1.5Ghz processor to produce some of the fastest browsing I’ve ever done - even on U+’s mediocre network. Web pages load almost as fast as I think of them. I’ve stopped using my laptop because, honestly, this phone browses faster than the Internet hooked up to my apartment. It’s at least twice as fast as my previous Galaxy S II. Of course, the Note is an Android device, and the apps look simply awesome. The included stylus is great if you’re as addicted to Draw Something as I am. Other recommended apps include: Pulse to utilize all that text screen real-estate, Dolphin Browser HD for the fastest mobile internet experience on the plan; StumbleUpon for the fastest and most efficient waste of time you’ll ever have, and Google Drive because the screen is honestly large enough that writing papers and setting up spreadsheets becomes painless. Hell, I just wrote this whole review on my Note alone. by Peter Starr Northrop

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HSocial

ISSUE

GOODBYE MADAME MATT BUTTERFLY JAMES TURNBULL FERGUSON BY

ILLUSTRATION BY

WITH LITTLE IN THE LITERARY CANON DELVING INTO THE SEX LIVES OF MARRIED KOREAN COUPLES, JAPANESE AUTHOR SUMIE KAWAKAMI’S 2007 BOOK OFFERS WESTERN READERS AT LEAST A LITTLE INSIGHT. As any parent can attest, your sex life is never going to be the marriages were sexless. What’s more, most of those didn’t insame again after having children. volve elderly couples; rather, as author Kim Young-hee writes First, because utter sleep deprivation saps the libidos of even in her 2009 book Why Me? about her experiences as a marriage the most amorous of parents, while women also have their counselor, the majority are in their 30s and 40s. bodies screaming, “Focus on this kid!” to contend with. SponSeeking an explanation, but finding little information availtaneous acts of passion become even more difficult as curi- able in English, I turned to journalist Sumie Kawakami’s 2007 ous, wandering children don’t respect book Goodbye Madame Butterfly: Sex, closed doors. (Hint: turn on the DisMarriage and the Modern Japanese ONE COUPLE IN OUR ney Channel.) And even at night, once Woman, as I’d heard that things were LAST APARTMENT they’re finally – mercifully – asleep, they very similar there. BUILDING, FOR always seem to wake up at the worst You can imagine my frustration, then, possible moment. INSTANCE, RECENTLY reading in the introduction that an exYeah, I’m thinking of that scene with planation of this specific topic would LET SLIP THAT THEY Miranda from Sex and the City. And I ashave to wait for another book. But, sure you, it’s not quite so funny the 10th INDULGED THEMSELVES conducted with the aim of investigattime it happens to you. A FEW TIMES BACK IN ing then-recently emerging narratives Yet despite the difficulties, most Westsex-starved housewives in the JapaTHE SUMMER OF 2010; of ern parents want to, expect to and do nese media, I was still compelled by the ultimately get their sex lives back. Many AFTER ALL, THE WORLD interviews of wives, divorcees, single Korean parents, in contrast, do not. parents, single women and even a male CUP WAS ON. Get to know some and you might be “sex volunteer”. surprised at what you hear: one couple in our last apartment One reason is their realism. Mirroring the lack of passion in building, for instance, recently let slip that they indulged them- their own lives, interviewees’ stories often meander on with no selves a few times back in the summer of 2010; after all, the sense of direction or purpose, nor end with any resolution. This World Cup was on. Another friend said she finds once a month can be exasperating, but it also draws out empathy, as the stowith her husband excessive. And so on. ries feel very true to life. None of them considered this out of the ordinary. Another is how, despite the stories’ diversity, you realize they While definitive statistics are hard to come by, a 2006 survey have several common themes. Most striking is the number of by Bayer Healthcare found that as many as one in five Korean interviewees that mention effectively never seeing their hus18 HAPS_summer 2012

bands for most of the week, and/or sleeping with their children in a separate room. (Later, of course, they can sound very naïve upon discovering that their husbands have found female companionship elsewhere - not just for sex.) Such separate lives are a natural consequence of notoriously long working hours - a relic of the old salaryman system, crucially something both Japan and Korea share. Also shared is how few females participate in the workforce, especially young mothers. (Indeed, Korea has the lowest rate in the OECD.) The interviewees tend to resolve to lead their own lives, only to quickly realize that their lack of job skills and experience would likely (and, in one case, does) bring financial destitution if they divorced their husbands. In turn, some of the book’s women stoically decide to remain in a loveless marriage for the sake of their children’s and their own futures, sometimes seeking male companionship for themselves. But it’s not just those contemplating divorce: Japanese women in general, or at least those in this book, seem much more pragmatic than their Western counterparts when it comes to men and marriage. One woman rejected the man she loved as she worried that his weak heart would leave their children without a father; it was only then that she “started to realize that love and marriage were two different things.” Similarly, once I hit my early-30s, a number of Korean friends my age suddenly decided it was time for them to get married, deemed their loving boyfriends of many years unsuitable, dumped them, joined one of numerous marriage agencies, found a new partner and married him… all in four weeks. Only now, because of Kawakami’s book, are such attitudes finally beginning to make sense to me. Yet, Goodbye does have its flaws. For instance, in one 17-page interview, a woman meets someone, marries and divorces in fewer than five of those, somewhat strange for a book about sex and marriage. Meanwhile, curiously unmentioned are things like Japanese couples’ mistrust of the contraceptive pill and relying on condoms and the withdrawal method instead, not as insignificant as it may sound. Finally, one huge oversight is not explaining that joint-custody of children is rare in Japan (as it is in Korea) and that full custody is often automatically awarded to fathers. The absence of this in the reading makes it difficult for foreign readers to fully appreciate interviewees’ dilemmas about divorce. And if that was needed, then in turn more information about Japan’s economic context was needed, and so on. Combined with an empty, unsatisfied feeling from many interviews, the book would have done better to raise these in a large expository chapter. But nevertheless, it still stands as an indispensable purchase for anyone interested in modern Japanese or Korean society. James Turnbull’s popular blog, The Grand Narrative, discusses Korean sociology through gender, advertising, and popular culture, and has become one of the leading Internet sources on those topics, with mentions in Time Magazine, The Washington Post and Jezebel. 2012 summer_ busanhaps.com 19

HInside

STORY

LIFE OF BRIAN:

AYLWARD ON KOREA, COMEDY AND SOJU BY CHRIS THARP

COME TO KOREA, BECOME A COMEDIAN, HEAD BACK HOME A STAR. NOT THE AVERAGE STORYLINE FOR A FORMER ESL GRUNT FROM CANADA, BUT BRIAN AYLWARD IS NOT YOUR AVERAGE GUY.

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STORY

“I EAT KIMCHI WITH MY FINGERS, LIKE A JAPANESE SAVAGE.”

or many of us, Korea is just too damn much fun. We live fast and hard and wild and keep responsibility at an arm’s length, putting it off until the eventual migration home, where we skulk back into the confines of ‘real life’ and go about finishing that graduate degree, buying a house and getting a civilized job. In other words: Squaresville. Newfoundland native Brian Aylward, however, chose a different path. Sure, he put in his time teaching ESL here on the peninsula and partied harder than 100 ajeosshis, but when he felt Canada pull him back, he heeded the call, eschewing grad school and that job in HR in favor of a much more solid, traditional career choice: he became a professional stand-up comedian. Aylward actually began doing comedy here in the Land of the Morning Calm, where, on a bet, he stepped up to the mic for the first time in 2005. He went on to start Stand Up Seoul in 2009 and wrote a humor column for Groove Magazine. Things blossomed from there. In 2010, he was the runner-up in the Hong Kong International Comedy Festival and, since returning to Canada, he was named “Halifax’s Funniest” in 2011, was the Newfoundland winner of the 2011 Yuk Yuk’s Great Canadian Laugh Off, and was a finalist at 2011 XM Radio’s Canada’s Top Comic. Brian has pe formed in festivals around the world, and has also been featured on CBC Television, CBC Radio’s Laugh Out Loud and XM Radio’s Laugh Attack. I recently talked with him about his upcoming Asia tour and return to Korea. DO YOU FEEL LIKE A PROUD PAPA COMING BACK TO KOREA ON TOUR AND SEEING HOW MUCH COMEDY IS GOING ON? Absolutely. I can’t wait to get back and see old faces and lots of new ones. I remember being the only English-speaking comic in Seoul and telling jokes and stories on stage at Ole Stompers on Hooker Hill, after midnight, between metal bands. Stand Up Seoul is going strong and I love that. Can’t wait to be back. The Ha-Ha Hole in Busan. Beauty. The expat community in South Korea is incredible. North Korea, not so much. I love those South Korean streets. Korea and my comedy career are intertwined. DESCRIBE YOUR LAMEST GIG. It was at an art gallery in Seoul. It was called “The Passport

Show”— bringing awareness to human rights and a declaration of universal citizenship. The place had a Picasso. I get there and onstage is a man, a North Korean defector, who is telling stories and describing horrific things he endured or witnessed, while using pantomime (...torture, hangings, decapitations, eating corn kernels out of cow shit, etc.) while it was being translated for a stunned crowd in a small room of about 40 people. After the North Korean man stopped speaking, the host went up on stage and says, in his Belgian accent: “Ladies and gentleman, sometimes the world can be a very cruel place. That is why we need comedy. Everybody, say hello to Brian Aylward.” DESCRIBE YOUR BEST GIG. A 49-minute headline set at Yuk Yuk’s Comedy Club in Halifax, Nova Scotia. I was happy enough with it that it validated my hard work up to that point and it was a moment where I truly realized that I can do this for a living. IF YOU COULD INTRAVENOUSLY INJECT HAM, WOULD YOU? Yup. Even into my toes, if necessary. Until both feet looked like ham loaves. Then, I would invite my family over, put my feet up on the table and say, “Enjoy.” DO YOU HAVE ANY GOOD OBSERVATIONAL JOKES ABOUT AIRLINE FOOD? Airplane food tastes like relationship jokes. CAN YOU EAT KIMCHI WITH CHOPSTICKS? I eat kimchi with my fingers, like a Japanese savage. WHAT IS YOUR OPINION OF SOJU? It was needed to wash down the dog. WHAT DO YOU THINK OF GUYS WHO DATE KOREAN GIRLS WHO SPEAK NO ENGLISH? I think it’s great. Relationships are about communication and how you handle money. So, dating an English alphabet-challenged Korean woman while on the run from responsibility is a perfect recipe for romance. Plus, being called “handsome” 38 times a day is great for any man’s self-esteem, right? No. Dating an attractive Korean woman who is English-alphabet challenged is like dating a hot retard. CANADA DAY IS COMING UP. WHY SHOULD CANADIANS CELEBRATE? Canadians should not celebrate Canada Day because Americans might find out that we have something of worth up here and then they will murder us. WHAT ADVICE DO YOU HAVE FOR PEOPLE WHOSE FRIENDS TELL THEM THAT THEY’RE FUNNY AND SHOULD BE A COMIC? I tell them to practice by crying while looking into a hotel bathroom mirror. WHY IS IT THAT 90 PERCENT OF HECKLERS ARE WOMEN? Because the spotlight is like a bug light for dumb, drunk chicks. WHERE DO YOU SEE YOURSELF IN FIVE YEARS? 2017? That’s far into the future brother. By then, there will be a female US President, Magic Johnson will be dead, and Filipinos will be the tallest race of humans on earth. Brian Aylward will play two intimate gatherings in Busan, at Haeundae Sharky’s on June 29 and HQ Kyungsung on June 30. Both shows start at 10 p.m. and are 10,000 won at the door. Check out his website at www.brianaylward.com or follow him on Twitter at @AylwardBrian

22 HAPS_summer 2012

2012 summer_ busanhaps.com 23

HCover STORY

24 HAPS_summer 2012

CHARLIE LE MINDU

CHRISTY SWAIN PHOTOGRAPHY BY ZOE HITCHEN

STYLIST: ANNA TREVELYA MODELS: D1MODELS MAKE-UP: LAURA DOMINIQUE

CHARLIE LE MINDU MIGHT BE VIEWED AS A YOUNGSTER IN THE FASHION WORLD, BUT THE IMPACT OF HIS WORK IN THE FIELD OF HAUTE COIFFURE IS ALREADY A THING OF LEGEND. FOLLOWING HIS RECENT VISIT TO BUSAN’S PRÊT-À-PORTER FASHION WEEK, LE MINDU TALKED WITH HAPS ABOUT TV STARDOM, PLASTIC SURGERY, KOREAN FASHION AND HIS MOST NOTORIOUS CLIENT — LADY GAGA.

2012 summer_ busanhaps.com 25

HCover STORY

o say 26-year-old Charlie le Mindu has a certain technique and style; from there, the Pop-up Salon was born. je ne sais quoi is like saying Lady Gaga has a He took the Pop-up Salon on the road and toured the clubs flair for the subtle. The French-born, London- of Europe, eventually establishing himself in East London. He based designer has already made a name for still enjoys doing pop-ups at festivals and shows and has just himself as a man of extremes thanks to his opened his own salon in Urban Retreat at the illustrious Harrods unique fusion of coiffure and couture, as well as department store in London. his controversial methods of displaying his viAlong the way, le Mindu has established a long list of celebrity sion. Some of his most noteworthy pieces include nude models clients including the B52s, Jodie Harsh, Carrie Mundane, Peachdrenched in blood, headwear crafted from dead rodents and es and, most infamously, Lady Gaga. Having worked with sevpieces made from 100% human hair sculpted and manipulated eral high-profile photographers and filmmakers, he now styles into elaborate designs. for Vogue and has managed create an avant-garde and refreshHowever, le Mindu doesn’t create pieces solely to shock - he ingly irreverent vision by integrating hair into fashion, which designs to evoke a reaction. As he told Haps in a recent inter- has established him as a pioneer in the field of haute coiffure, all view, for him, it’s part of the process. “I just think when people by the current age of 26. come to my show I want extreme reactions, I prefer them to So, who or what moves a man like this? According to Monsieur hate it or to love it. I don’t think havle Mindu, he is most influenced by ing naked models is shocking at all; icons, such as Cher, Iggy Pop I JUST THINK WHEN PEOPLE “older” everyone has seen someone naked and John Waters - “They lived more, before. At least, I hope so.” COME TO MY SHOW I WANT they teach me and show me more” And really, is it that shocking to as well as lesser-known stars like DiaEXTREME REACTIONS, see a naked woman in the world of manda Galas, Nina Hagen and Angefashion? Even at shows by designlyne, an American model and actress I PREFER THEM TO HATE ers as staid as Calvin Klein or Michael ostensibly became a Hollywood IT OR TO LOVE IT. I DON’T who Kors, one sees nipples or buttocks icon by purchasing billboards and making an appearance on the runadvertising herself. THINK HAVING NAKED way. What is truly shocking is if nuConversely, he is also inspired by a MODELS IS SHOCKING AT number dity is used to objectify or degrade of new and unique performthe subject and that clearly isn’t le ALL; EVERYONE HAS SEEN ers from the present, citing Canadian Mindu’s motivation. artist, musician and music video diRecently, at his Couture Fashion SOMEONE NAKED BEFORE. rector Claire Boucher (a.k.a Grimes), Week exhibition at the Cartier InstiBritish singer-songwriter and actress AT LEAST, I HOPE SO. tute in Paris, he used two plus-size Rita Ora, American rapper and lyrinude models. “They were amazing!” he exclaims. “I don’t think cist Azealia Banks (formerly known as Miss Bank$) and French anyone was shocked by it, and it wasn’t the point. My point is to electro musician Orion Bouvier of Kap Bambino fame. However, create beautiful and interesting images, and it worked.” when asked who he would like to dress next, Cher stands apart To this point in his journey, nothing about le Mindu’s life has from the rest: “She is the queen!” he says, enthusiastically. been ordinary. He started his career as a prodigy at the French This juxtaposition between past and present is clear in his Hair Academy at the astonishing age of 13 and later moved to recent collection for Fall/Winter 2012, which he presented at Berlin seeking new adventures. Initially, he struggled to survive Busan’s own Prêt-à-Porter show at BEXCO in April. Charl’ de financially before deciding to ask bars and clubs if he could cut Jouy is described as 1930s futurism - art deco-inspired shapes, hair in their venues at night. He began at iconic gay pub Barbie cropped jackets, pencil skirts, straight legged trousers, toile de Deinhoff by snipping and styling club patrons, developing his jouey fabrics and a lilac and black palette. 26 HAPS_summer 2012

As always, his ninth collection features garments and accessories crafted from 100% natural, human hair. The highlight of the show (pictured) was a floor-length evening gown braided from thousands of strands of lilac-tinted hair, which Lady Gaga was recently spotted wearing in Hong Kong. Why lilac? “Lilac - it’s a color that I love… It can be old-fashioned like a grandmother’s blue rinse, but also all my young clients love it at the moment, like dip-dye purple or lilac hair. I think it’s such a strong color, but very soft at the same time. I always like to work with opposites and extremes.” Speaking of opposites and extremes, it is difficult to talk about Charlie le Mindu without mentioning Lady Gaga. Ever since her emergence, she’s been making waves as much for her fashion choices as for her music, so it seemingly natural that Gaga and le Mindu might gravitate towards one another. While he has worked with various high profile musicians, his association with the queen of shock pop is the one that has given him maximum exposure. “I always like to work with celebrities and singers. I just think Gaga is kinda perfect from what she chooses in my collections, but I love doing bespoke pieces for her as I can really play and have fun. Like the pregnant outfit I did for her in leather and latex was amazing!” Lady Gaga has been photographed numerous times offstage in le Mindu’s designs, and has repeatedly incorporated them into her album cover art and elaborate performances. The impression le MIndu’s work has made on her sense of style is undeniable. Unfortunately, it doesn’t appear that Korean fashion made much of an impression on the designer. He surmised that it was perhaps “jet lag” or not being in the right part of town. He saw “all the iconic Korean things: temples, towers, weird food, crane-lobster games... But if Korean fashion is what I saw, I will call it non-existing.” Ouch. One thing he does have in common with Koreans, however, is his love of plastic surgery: “I’m a huge fan of plastic surgery! I do remember seeing some beauty salon [in Korea] where they do human placenta injection to look younger. It’s pretty amazing and intense... I think plastic surgery is like the future!” In an age of commercial pop-music robots and Hollywood remakes, it’s refreshing and inspiring to see a young artist with such a lust for life pushing all the boundaries of what we know to be fashion. Love him or hate him - that’s how he prefers it.

Currently, le Mindu hosts an online TV makeover show on Internet-based entertainment site Konbini, aptly named Charlie’s Treatment. The show’s intent, he claims, is “not to make you look 10 years younger, but to make you look cool.” The show has thus far been a success, garnering two million hits in its first week. And while much of the world sees him as a purveyor of the extreme, le Mindu is, in his own way, still humble in the face of his rising fame. “I wouldn’t call myself a ‘TV star’, but I do love being in front of the camera. It’s like being a kid again.” You can find out more about Charlie le Mindu on his website www.charlielemindu.com or follow him on Twitter @charlielemindu.

2012 summer_ busanhaps.com 27

HSports

TALK

LET THE GAMES

BEGIN BY JEFF LIEBSCH

IT’S BEEN FOUR YEARS, BUT THE SUMMER OLYMPICS ARE BACK. TEAM KOREA IS GEARING UP FOR ANOTHER STELLAR PERFORMANCE TO REACH THE PODIUM.

he city of London has waited seven years, but the time has finally come for the 2012 Summer Olympics to take the British capital by storm. London is hosting the games for the third time in the modern era, the only city to lay such a claim. With a budget of $14.7 billion, the Olympic Park, a former deprived industrial center, is ready to take center stage for two weeks of joy, heartache and pain. There will be plenty of people to keep an eye on during the Olympics, including stars of the 2008 games such as Usian Bolt, Michael Phelps and Chris Hoy. The oldest Olympian, 71-year-old Japanese equestrian Hiroshi Hoketsu, will also be a great story to watch unfold. However, here on the peninsula, Korea has its own ambitions, and they set the bar high. In 2008, Korea brought home an impressive 13 golds, 10 silvers and eight bronze medals from Beijing, far exceeding ex-

pectations. This time around, they are hoping for a top 10 finish in the Gold Standings, and are confident that they have the squad to accomplish that. Traditionally, Korea has excelled in archery, taekwondo, judo, badminton and shooting. But Korean Olympic Chairman Park Yong-sung believes they can compete for medals in other disciplines as well. “Since I took the helm of the NTC in January 2011, I have strived to nurture other potential events and found them in boxing, wrestling and gymnastics,” Park said in a January interview. Unfortunately for Korea, baseball has been cancelled this Olympics, and they won’t have a chance to defend their impressive gold medal feat from Beijing. The 30th Summer Olympic Games will take place from July 27 through to August 12 and can be seen nationally on TV on SBS Sports.

WHO TO KEEP AN EYE ON IN LONDON

PARK TAE-HWAN All eyes will be on swimmer Park Taehwan, Korea’s ‘Golden Boy’ of the pool. The defending 400-meter freestyle champion will be looking to repeat on his success at the 2008 Beijing Games.

28 HAPS_spring 2012

LEE YONG-DAE AND JUNG JAE-SUNG The badminton duo of Lee Yong-dae and Jung Jae-sung are also favorites to bring home some hardware in London. After their surprise gold in Beijing, they became the youngest gold medalists in the sport.

JANG MI-RAN AND SA JAE-HYOUK Jang will be looking for a repeat in the +75kg women’s weightlifting division, where she broke the world records in clean and jerk and snatch in Beijing. The 165cm tall Sa also brought home gold in the men’s 77kg class in Beijing.

KOREAN FOOTBALL The Olympic Soccer team has drawn Mexico, Switzerland and Gabon in what looks to be a tight Group B. Celtic’s Ki Seung-yong, Sunderland’s Ji Dong-won and Cerezo Osaka midfielder Kim Bo-kyung have a chance to lead the Red Devils to their first ever Olympic football medal.

IM DONG-HYUN With 20/200 vision, 26-year-old archer Im Dong-hyun is legally blind, but it hasn’t stopped him from winning two Olympic Golds and four world championships. He’ll be looking to add to his impressive resume in London.

FIVE QUESTIONS WITH MATT MCKAY

POSITION: Midfielder CLUB: Busan IPark NUMBER: 10 HEIGHT: 171cm WEIGHT: 65kg BORN: Brisbane, Australia INTERNATIONAL CAPS: 23 HOW’S YOUR ADJUSTMENT BEEN TO THE K LEAGUE SO FAR? WHAT ARE THE MAIN DIFFERENCES FROM OTHER LEAGUES YOU’VE PLAYED IN? The K League is very demanding. I have found every game a different challenge. Most teams press really hard and are very physical and I have enjoyed that aspect. WHAT DO YOU CONSIDER IS YOUR ROLE WITH THE SQUAD? CAN YOU BRING LEADERSHIP AND EXPERIENCE THOUGH THE OTHER PLAYERS MAY NOT UNDERSTAND YOU BECAUSE OF THE LANGUAGE BARRIER? Being one of the more senior players, I feel a responsibility to help. Even though I cannot speak Korean, I like to think I get my point across to them as to what I want. But to be honest, the coaches are very thorough and cover every aspect of games and have us ready each week. WHO DO YOU FEEL ARE THE MOST TALENTED INDIVIDUALS FOR IPARK AT THE MOMENT? There are some very technical players at the club. I like Jongwoo, Jong-won, Han-yoon, Jin-ho, Chung-su and Kwang-hee. But to be honest they are all fantastic and talented. They all have individual traits which I like and try to learn off as well. WHAT DO YOU THINK THE IPARK’S CHANCES ARE TO BRING SOME HARDWARE HOME THIS YEAR? We just want to be prepared for every game, and I think if we do that and play with the right attitude, we will challenge up the top of the league this season. WHAT DO YOU LIKE TO DO AWAY FROM THE PITCH? HAVE YOU HAD A CHANCE TO GET OUT AND EXPLORE THE CITY? Busan is a great place. When I do get some spare time, I head to the beach or go shopping. It’s a good city.

LOTTE GIANTS SCHEDULE Tuesday, June 12 - Doosan Wednesday, June 13 - Doosan Thursday, June 14 - Doosan Tuesday, June 26 - Hanwha Wednesday, June 27 - Hanwha Thursday, June 28 - Hanwha Tuesday, July 3 - SK Wednesday, July 4 - SK Thursday, July 5 - SK Friday, July 6 - Samsung Saturday, July 7 - Samsung Sunday, June 17 - Seongnam Sunday, July 8 - Samsung Saturday, June 30 - Daejon Friday, July 13 - Hanwha Thursday, July 12 - Incheon Saturday, July 14 - Hanwha Wednesday, July 25 - Ulsan Sunday, July 15 - Hanwha Sunday, July 29 - Pohang Tuesday, July 31 - KIA

BUSAN IPARK SCHEDULE

2012 spring_ busanhaps.com 29

HTravel

INTERNATIONAL

PROTECTING PACHYDERMS STORY AND PHOTOS BY JORDAN MAMMO

THAILAND’S ELEPHANT POPULATION IS LESS THAN FOUR PERCENT OF WHAT IT WAS A HUNDRED YEARS AGO. BUT EFFORTS ARE BEING MADE TO REVIVE THE COUNTRY’S EMBATTLED SYMBOL.

hough it’s often mentioned by locals that Thailand was ‘built on the backs’ of elephants, the country’s Asian elephant population has plummeted since the start of the 20th century - from over 100,000 to under 4,000 today. Despite all the religious statues and souvenirs one sees carved in their likeness, many are mistreated and abused physically. Some are exported to other countries, and any animals left free risk stumbling onto uncleared landmines in the northern jungles bordering Myanmar. If these giants are expected to survive another 100 years, it’s clear that they need help. Luckily, Chiang Mai’s Elephant Nature Park is doing just that. Upon entering, I could only imagine Jurassic Park evoking a greater feeling of awe: one group of elephants grazing lazily in the fields, another relaxing near a giant pit. The first thing that really makes an impression is the sheer size of the reserve. Situated near a river in the Mae Taeng Valley, the park spans more than 2,000 acres and houses 35 elephants. Both a conservation center and activist organization, it was established in 1996 to take in and rehabilitate abused and wounded elephants. Since a project of this size is always in need of help, the park is open to volunteers interested in feeding, bathing and learning about the treatment of captive elephants in Thailand. Day trips and overnight stays up to two weeks are available. They even pick you up from your hotel. No matter how long you stay, your trip is likely to begin and end with the same event: feeding. Elephants are constantly eating, and nothing quite compares to handing them a bushel of bananas and watching them eat the entirety of it in one chomp, rind and all. Then half a watermelon. And a pineapple. Even after 15 minutes or more of steady feasting, don’t be surprised to see them reach over and try to steal another elephant’s stash once theirs runs dry. Lunch for volunteers followed soon after; 30 HAPS_summer 2012

while we ate, park supervisors prepared some elephants for the next part of their day: bath time. Like children, elephants can be fickle creatures. As we learned from experience, all it takes is one poorly timed splash of water to the face to convince them that they don’t really want a bath after all. Once in the river, we were handed buckets and instructed to dump water all over the surprisingly docile animals. Scrub their ears, splash the dirt off their backs. Offshore, a clean elephant offered volunteers wet kisses in exchange for bananas. As for our freshly bathed, fully nourished pachyderm? He thanked us by leaving the river, throwing dirt on his back and trudging off to roll around in the nearest mud pit. Figures. While a visit to Elephant Nature Park is certainly exciting, it’s also a time to learn. The process of taming elephants in Thailand has traditionally involved ‘breaking their spirits’. Animals are tied up for days at a time, deprived of food and hit with sharp tools until they follow any and all commands. One of the reserve’s elephants had been stabbed in her eyes and blinded for refusing an order. Another had half her foot blown off by a landmine and needed to soak it in medication for multiple hours every day. And though that is not the fault of any one person, it speaks to the dangerous conditions that free elephants find themselves living in due to deforestation pinning them in areas that still house underground explosives. Ultimately, the goal of Elephant Nature Park isn’t to remove elephants from tourism or to make us feel guilty about riding one on a tour. It’s to advocate for more humane and ethical treatment. Seeing how happy these elephants looked here, fighting in the mud and bathing in the river, it didn’t seem like too much to ask for. Perhaps it’s true that they may not be able to forget what they’ve been through, but with a little help, they may eventually be able to lumber on.

WAT CHEDI LUANG

WATâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S HAPPENING IN CHIANG MAI

BY TORY MOCK WAT JET YOD

Thai King Tilokarat, currently entombed in Wat Jet Yod, built this temple complex in 1477 to host the Eighth World Buddhist Council. The complex, which is based on an Indian design, is unlike any other in Chiang Mai. The grounds of the temple are tranquil and spacious, shaded by many old trees in case you need to get out from under the hot Thai sun overhead. The most intriguing feature of the temple is the series of 70 beautiful stucco celestial beings that decorate the walls. Though they have been damaged over the centuries, their intricate clothes and jewellery, as well as their smiling faces are an excellent example of Lanna art. The temple is conveniently located close to the city center.

WAT CHEDI LUANG

An enormous temple built at the end of the 14th century by King Saeng Muang Ma as a final resting place for the ashes of his father, Wat Chedi Luang was enlarged the following century when the height of the main chedi reached 90 meters. It was severely damaged in the great earthquake of 1545, and has only recently been restored. Located in the city center, the pleasant and peaceful grounds are home to several other buildings including the City Pillar (Inthakhin), a Buddhist university and a variety of other Buddha statues. An enormous yang tree has also taken root there. Wat Chedi Luang is also home to many of the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most important religious ceremonies. Feel free to wander the grounds and explore the temple on your own, but for those interested in learning more about the history and cultural significance, it is recommended to join a temple tour.

WAT PHRA SINGH

Famous for its excellent examples of Lanna art, this temple is situated in the heart of the city. It was founded in the 14th century, but most of the structures date from the 19th century, as well as several that were restored over the past 10 years. There are some beautiful murals depicting scenes from everyday life in Lanna from a century ago. There are also several exquisite wood carvings on other buildings and the scripture repository, where you can see holy texts made of bai lan or sa paper, which have been carefully preserved. The senior abbot of the Buddhist order in Chiang Mai resides at Wat Phra Singh. Wat Phra Singh is conveniently located in close walking distance to several guesthouses and hotels. 2012 summer_ busanhaps.com 31

HTravel KOREA

YEOSU WORLD EXPO: THE GOOD, THE BAD AND THE UGLY BY NICOLE BREWER

THE WORLD EXPO FINDS ITS HOME IN KOREA FOR THE SUMMER.

hrough August 12, the port city of Yeosu in South Jeolla province and its 317 islands are hosting the World Expo, with a theme of “The Living Ocean and Coast: Diversity of Resources and Sustainable Activities". The overall goal of the three-month exhibition by countries from around the globe is to promote how humans can live in harmony with the ocean, while also encouraging sustainable development and renewable energy. I had a chance to see it on its opening day. THE GOOD: I was very impressed with the Expo’s organization. We arrived at around 8:30 a.m. with our (frankly disappointing) tour operator. After 9 a.m., you can reserve your top two pavilion choices. This helped smashingly in allowing us to detour long, neverending lines unlike the Shanghai Expo of 2010. When I attended the Shanghai Expo, I was lucky to tour four pavilions in six hours. The crowds were much bigger in Shanghai, but a reservation system could have indeed helped. THE BAD: In order to be a successful international event with appeal to diverse backgrounds, they needed to have several languages available at the exhibitions. There are 105 international pavilions to attract a varying crowd of participants. How32 HAPS_summer 2012

ever, several pavilions, including Korea’s, did not include English (the most widely-used tourist language!) in the video displays. THE UGLY: The expo was absolutely gorgeous, with an astounding array of architectural designs, light exhibitions and dancers in vibrant costumes. Nevertheless, it would be remiss to not mention that several of the pavilions were not finished by the opening day. I did not have time to investigate the corporate pavilions such as LG and Samsung, but it is common knowledge that they were incomplete. What I did see were a disappointing number of wooden planks and walled-off construction areas. Despite its flaws, I did have a lovely time and would recommend anyone living in Korea to check it out. I suggest visiting over the course of two days if you want to take a lot in. GETTING TO AND FROM YEOSU The best route to Yeosu from Busan is by bus, as there are no direct trains from here. You can take either a bus from Sasang or Nopo terminals at a cost of 18,100 won and it takes two hours and 50 minutes. As reported widely in the media, poor planning by the Expo commission has, much like other past international events in Korea, vastly under-supplied the surrounding area with accommodations. Book in advance or consider staying in Gwangju, which is about 40 minutes away.

ASK A LOCAL HAPS ASKS SOME SEASONED LOCALS ABOUT WHAT THEY LIKE ABOUT KOREA AND WHAT THEY WOULD RECOMMEND TO PEOPLE LIVING AND VISITING HERE. NAME: Sojeong Moon OCCUPATION: Owner of StarFace Dalmaji RESIDENCE: Dalmaji, Haeundae 1. WHAT IS A PLACE PEOPLE SHOULD VISIT IN BUSAN THAT THEY MIGHT NOT KNOW ABOUT? Cheonsapo is a quiet fishing village just down the hill from Dalmaji, and is famous for its barbeque seafood which you can eat while overlooking the sea. 2. WHAT IS A LOCAL FOOD THAT IS SPECIAL IN BUSAN THAT VISITORS SHOULD TRY? Dwaeji gukbap is a delicious Busan speciality, and is a soup with boiled pork and rice, usually served with matured mu kimchi (radish) . 3. IF PEOPLE WANT TO FIND A QUIET PLACE TO GET AWAY, WHERE WOULD YOU RECOMMEND THEY GO IN BUSAN? Dalmaji Hill has become busier recently with many coffee shops and new restaurants at the top. However, they have recently built a continuation of the wooden board-walk up to Haemaru, where a traditional-style pavilion has been built offering a superb view of Busan’s coastal cityscape. 4. WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE PLACE TO TRAVEL IN KOREA OUTSIDE OF BUSAN? Outside Busan, I love Seorak Mountain in Gangwon-do, which is a beautiful national park near Seokcho in the northeast part of the country. NAME: Ashley Kim OCCUPATION: Journalist, CJ HelloVision RESIDENCE: Haeundae 1. WHAT IS A PLACE PEOPLE SHOULD VISIT IN BUSAN THAT THEY MIGHT NOT KNOW ABOUT? Gijiang is a peaceful and attractive place. So are Jangansa, Yonggungsa and Ingang Beach. 2. WHAT IS A LOCAL FOOD THAT IS SPECIAL IN BUSAN THAT VISITORS SHOULD TRY? Jjajangmyeon! Actually, there is a restaurant located in front of Yonggung Temple, 조개구이 (BBQ’d shellfish), 꼼장어 (sea eel), to name a few. 3. IF PEOPLE WANT TO FIND A QUIET PLACE TO GET AWAY, WHERE WOULD YOU RECOMMEND THEY GO IN BUSAN? Once again, Gijang! 4. WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE PLACE TO TRAVEL IN KOREA OUTSIDE OF BUSAN? Upo Wetland in Changnyeong-gun (창녕 우포늪) and Bugok Hotspring (부곡온천) in Gyeongsangnam-do.

2012 summer_ busanhaps.com 33

Cultural Corner

SHARING CULTURES SINCE KOREA BEGAN GLOBALIZING ITS CULTURE AROUND THE WORLD, VARIOUS COUNTRIES HAVE ALSO BEGAN SETTING UP SHOP HERE IN ORDER TO BRIDGE CULTURAL GAPS AND INFORM ABOUT THEIR COUNTRIES, AS KOREANS’ ZEAL FOR TRAVELLING ABROAD CAN BE A BOOM FOR THEIR ECONOMIES.

ALLIANCE FRANÇAISE

GOETHE-INSTITUT BUSAN

PHILIPPINE CULTURAL HOUSE

BUSAN INDONESIA CENTER

DONGSUNG BUILDING (FIRST FLOOR), 1145-1 CHORYANG 3-DONG, DONG-GU, BUSAN OPEN: M-F 9 A.M. TO 9 P.M., SATURDAY 12:30 P.M.- 7:30 P.M. TEL: 051-465-0306 FAX: 051-465-0341 WWW.AFBUSAN.CO.KR Operating for 32 years in Busan, Alliance Française provides innovative and unique programs in education and the arts that explore the evolving diversity and richness of French culture. AF also seeks to generate new ideas and promote cross-cultural dialogue through partnerships and new platforms of expression. There are five levels of classes available, French satellite TV and movies and an exhibition hall which hosts free art shows monthly. 1147-14 CHORYANG 3-DONG, DONG-GU, BUSAN OPEN: M-F 9 A.M. TO 6 P.M. TEL: 051-442-0025 FAX: 051-442-0748 WWW.PKCH.CO.KR Opened in October of 2007, the Philippine Cultural House in Busan provides legal counsel for Filipinos married to Koreans, as well as information about business opportunities and travel to the Southeast Asian country. It also provides a language lab, library and a seminar room.

GERMAN BUILDING (EIGHTH FLOOR), 24-2 DAECHANG-DONG 1-GA, JUNG-GU, BUSAN OPEN: M-F 9 A.M. - 12 P.M., 12:30 P.M. - 5 P.M. TEL: 051- 441-4112 FAX: 051- 441-4113 WWW.SEOUL.DIPLO.DE The goal of the Goethe-Institut Busan is to raise awareness of German culture and language. In Busan, around 600 students study German in local universities, and another 100 in local schools. German courses are also offered at the German House in Jungang-dong (subway line 1, exit 17), which also doubles as the honorary German Consul here in Busan.

1900 GEUMGOK-DONG, BUK-GU, BUSAN OPEN: M-F 9 A.M. - 12.00 P.M., 1:30 P.M. - 3 P.M. TEL: 051-806-5675 X76 FAX: 051-806-5674 WWW.INDONESIASEOUL.ORG Opened just this past April, the Busan Indonesia Center aims to increase Indonesian promotion in South Korea and deepen the relations between the two countries. Information on tourism, culture, the Indonesian economy and politics may be obtained, and the center also doubles as the Consular Affairs office of the country in Busan.

CONSULATES IN BUSAN CONSULATE-GENERAL OF CANADA c/o Dongsung Chemical Co., Ltd. 472 Sinpyeong-dong, Saha-gu Tel: 051-204-5581, Fax: 051-204-5580 CONSULATE-GENERAL OF THE PEOPLE’S REPUBLIC OF CHINA 47 Beach Road, Haeundae-gu, Busan Tel: 051-743-7990, Fax: 051-743-7987 34 HAPS_spring 2012

CONSULATE-GENERAL OF JAPAN 1147-11 Choryang 3-dong, Dong-gu, Busan Tel: 051-465-5101, Fax: 051-464-1630

CONSULATE-GENERAL OF RUSSIA 89-1 Jungang-dong 4-ga, Jung-gu, Tel: 051-441-9904 x5, Fax: 051-464-4404

CONSULATE-GENERAL OF NEW ZEALAND Wonyang Plaza (third floor), Amnamdong, Seo-gu, Busan Tel: 051-250-0630

US CONSULATE IN KOREA 612 Lotte Golden Rose, 150-3, Yangjeong-dong, Yeonje-gu, Busan Tel: 051-863-0731 x2, Fax: 051-863-0734

Ask an Expat

EXPAT EXTRACTS LEO MENDOZA AGE: 32 HOMETOWN: Bogota, Columbia OCCUPATION: Professor at Busan University of Foreign Studies HOW LONG IN KOREA? I have been here 11 years. WHAT BROUGHT YOU TO KOREA? I came to Korea to teach. WHAT DO YOU LIKE MOST ABOUT LIVING IN KOREA? It is a relaxing place to be when it comes to a lack of work stress. At least in my job! WHAT “MUST-SEE” PLACES WOULD YOU SUGGEST THAT PEOPLE MIGHT NOT KNOW ABOUT? I advise people to ask a Korean university student to take them to their favorite restaurants. Cheap, tasty and generous portions! BESIDES FRIENDS AND FAMILY, WHAT DO YOU MISS MOST ABOUT YOUR HOME COUNTRY? I’d have to say television. HOW LONG DO YOU SEE YOURSELF STAYING IN KOREA IN THE FUTURE? As for now, undecided.

JAMOUND WILLIAMS AGE: My little secret HOMETOWN: Oakland, California, USA OCCUPATION: University instructor HOW LONG IN KOREA? About nine short years. WHAT BROUGHT YOU TO KOREA? Honestly, I was on my way to Japan. I had a good job back home, but I wanted to see the world. This was one way to do it. WHAT DO YOU LIKE MOST ABOUT LIVING IN KOREA? I adore the great group of friends I’ve made. WHAT “MUST-SEE” PLACES WOULD YOU SUGGEST THAT PEOPLE MIGHT NOT KNOW ABOUT? In Daejeon, they should check out Yeta restaurant and village. In Cheonan, they should head to Arario art gallery and in Busan, I love Waedo. BESIDES FRIENDS AND FAMILY, WHAT DO YOU MISS MOST ABOUT YOUR HOME COUNTRY? I miss the weather. Sunny summers are the greatest. HOW LONG DO YOU SEE YOURSELF STAYING IN KOREA IN THE FUTURE? I’m not sure. I guess when I see the first gray hair, it will be time for a gracious exit.

2012 spring_ busanhaps.com 35

Dining News

THE DISH: HALF-BAKED BY JEN SOTHAM AND FRANKIE HERRINGTON

HAVING A HARD TIME DECIDING WHETHER YOU’RE CRAVING SOMETHING SWEET OR SAVORY? DON’T FRET – HERE ARE TWO SIMPLE RECIPES TO HELP YOU SCRATCH EITHER ITCH.

JALAPENO, BACON AND CHEDDAR MUFFINS

TIME: 1 hour. Yields 12 muffins. INGREDIENTS: 2 cups all purpose flour 1 tbsp. baking soda 1 tbsp. baking powder 1 large egg (or 2 medium) 2 tbsp. I Can’t Believe It’s Not Butter 20-25 jalapeno rings, finely diced ¾ cup of milk ½ cup (4 oz.) of plain Denmark Yogurt ½ cup (4 oz.) of grated cheddar cheese 1 tsp. each of salt and black pepper 4 large or 6 medium strips of bacon INSTRUCTIONS: Preheat your oven to 200ºC. Fry the bacon until it is crispy, almost burnt, then wrap it in paper towels to drain the oil. In a large bowl, mix the flour, baking soda, baking powder, salt and pepper. In a separate bowl, beat the egg(s), milk, margarine and yogurt together. Add the wet mixture to the dry mixture and combine thoroughly. Add in crumbled bacon, jalapenos and cheddar, and mix until they are evenly distributed. Place paper muffin cups into a muffin pan. Place batter in each until they are ¾ full. Bake for 12-15 minutes, or until you can puncture it with a toothpick and the toothpick comes out dry. My own toaster oven only fits one six-muffin pan. If yours is the same, you will need to bake two batches. Also, my toaster has several settings – use the one where the heat is coming from both the top and bottom. 36 HAPS_spring 2012

BERRY GRUNTS

TIME: 40 minutes. Serves 4 people. INGREDIENTS: Berry filling 4 cups fresh (or frozen) blueberries or strawberries ¾ cups raw sugar 1 tbsp. lemon juice ½ cup water ½ tsp. each cinnamon and nutmeg (optional) Simple biscuits 2 cups all-purpose flour 4 tsp. baking powder ½ tsp. salt 3 tbsp. dairy-free butter (you can buy Better than Butter from E-Mart) ¾-1 cup soy milk (I use Pulmone’s soy milk) INSTRUCTIONS: Preheat your oven to 200ºC. In a large skillet add berry filling ingredients, bring to a boil then let simmer for 1015 minutes until the mixture has thickened. Meanwhile, combine the dry ingredients for the biscuits. Cut the butter into the dry ingredients with a fork. Keep in the fridge until berries are ready. When berries have thickened, let them cool while you add soy milk to the dry cookie mixture to form a soft biscuit-like dough. Don’t over-mix the dough or your biscuits will be tough. The consistency is pretty forgiving. You’re good as long as it holds together, but is soft enough to break apart into clumps. Half-fill individual ramekins with the berry mixture. Add chunks of the biscuit mixture on top. Sprinkle with sugar and bake for 20 minutes. Serve warm.

FOOD & WHAT?

My friend and I were sitting at the bar one night when we overheard someone say, “...you know, that supermarket in Daeyeon called Food And that carries cheap salami.” Our ears immediately perked up. How did I not already know about this place? We got directions and set out the next day to see for ourselves. We wandered the aisles of the midsized supermarket that doubles as a restaurant supply store, periodically stopping to point to some item Vanna White-style and, with raised eyebrows, say, “Really?” Among the items we discovered were bags of frozen green beans, asparagus, broccoli and assorted frozen fruits, smoked turkey legs, lasagna noodles, homemade salad dressings, frozen tortillas and an assortment of Western condiments and spices at prices that undercut even Costco. Oh, and, of course, salami, at only 5,000 won per log. The store’s not huge, and they don’t carry things like cheese (except for the standard sliced, processed kind), dill pickles or avocados, but it’s definitely worth exploring if you’re looking to ‘Westernize’ your cooking artillery without dropping too much cash.

Dining & Food

DINING EXTRAS

PATBINGSU BY JESSICA STEELE AS THE WEATHER HEATS UP, WHY NOT COOL DOWN THE KOREAN WAY WITH SOME TASTY PATBINGSU? Patbingsu (팓빙수) is just one of many red-bean based desserts in Korea. Pat (팓) is red azuki bean, boiled and sweetened to make a paste, which is then layered atop bingsu (빙수), or shaved ice. The ice itself is sweetened with condensed milk, which makes for a lighter tasting treat than those ice cream sandwiches you’ve wolfed down in summers past. Topped with some rice cake, or ddeok (떡), for texture, this treat will cool and refresh. Much like iced coffee confections, bingsu variations abound. Nokcha (녹차), or green tea, as well as coffee, and fruit variations are the most popular, and perfect for those who aren’t keen on red bean or rice cake. Bingsu topped with frosted cereal and fruit is often served as a side dish in hofs and noraebangs, perfect for re-hydrating sun-parched bodies and for thinning the alcohol coursing through soju-lined veins. Like most Korean dishes, bingsu’s made to share, so grab your besties and scoop up a bowl of bingsu, available at most bakeries, major restaurants, and cafes for 3,000 to 8,000 won. It would be a shame to leave Korea without trying the dessert that most of your students will list among their favorites!

FULLY BOOKED’S NEW FARE

For those of you who enjoy relaxing with a cup of coffee or a glass of wine at Kyungsung’s used book store, Fully Booked, the problem of where to eat before going for a good read is now a thing of the past with the introduction of their yummy new panini sandwiches. There are three different offerings to choose from: pesto chicken, apple sausage or caprese. Just be certain no one is looking should you drip the delicious servings on the book pages. 2012 spring_ busanhaps.com 37

Music Scene

MUSIC IN HIS GENES

BY GORDON BAZSALI, JR.

LED BY THE 16-YEAR-OLD WUNDERKIND EUGENE SMITH, ROCK BAND MILLSTONE GRIT HAS BECOME INCREASINGLY POPULAR ON THE BUSAN EXPAT MUSIC SCENE.

or me, sitting down to talk to 16-year-old rock prodigy Eugene Smith is like reading the book of your favorite film. You pretty much know what’s going on already, but still interesting details emerge and come into focus. I’ve had countless discussions about rock music with the half-Brit, half-Korean, Costa Rican native singer/songwriter/guitarist of the band Millstone Grit over the last few years, with varying degrees of seriousness, and I’m always left disbelieving our 25-year age gap. It turns out we have much in common, musically. We both were weaned on The Beatles and Stevie Wonder, and are still both closet U2 fans; our fathers taught us our first guitar chords, and we were in our first rock bands in early high school (still currently for him). But a glaring difference soon appears: he knows exactly what he’s doing, and he’s doing it right. Eugene spends much of his time attending shows and is always ready to talk about what’s going on in the scene. He says the last great rock show he saw was the farewell performance of The Headaches, and recalls getting as close to the stage as possible so he could absorb all he could from Robbie Wagner’s guitar playing. He’s become such a fixture at Busan rock venues that it’s hard to picture him taking exams. Millstone Grit was formed in 2009, and has played practically every venue that supports local rock in Busan. The power trio comprised of Jerome Bremer on drums, John Hotra on bass and Smith as guitarist and frontman - are a staple of the expat music scene. Aside from being a geological term, the band’s name evokes the sense of a life tempered by hard knocks. It is a legacy of sorts from Smith’s father, Kevin, whose teenage band back home in the UK bore the same name. “When we were forming the band, we couldn’t think of a name for it… all our names for it were rubbish, and my dad had a band called Millstone Grit so I thought I’d just nick that.” He credits his father for setting him on the right musical path, whereas other people in his peer group would likely dismiss their fathers’ anecdotes and simply accept pop charts as the authority on what’s good. However, Smith adamantly rejects mass-marketed music awards as indicators of musical virtue: “Raw Power by Iggy Pop got to 173 on the charts and that’s the best album in the world, and Britney Spears has

been number one how many times?” While he doesn’t automatically reject recently successful bands (he cites the Strokes, Kasabian, and the Libertines as all successful indie outfits), he adds that the true indicator for greatness lies in how influential an artist is over time. When asked at what point would he pause and say, “Whoa, we’ve really made it, haven’t we?” Smith remarks that a lot of bands fall flat after their first successful album, and while a world tour supporting his first critically acclaimed album would be a huge achievement, he would like to view his overall story arc in terms of a series of stepwise achievements, looking forward to each successive short term goal. Millstone Grit is first and foremost a gigging rock band, and though demo recordings are available, it seems their fans will simply have to wait for a formal debut album. A lot of groups these days release everything they record, but not Eugene Smith. He thinks through every move while maintaining an overarching perspective, and one can’t help but be struck by how clear-headed and deliberate he is when it comes to leaving his mark on the music world. “If it’s an album, I want it to be a signed contract, a proper thing… I wouldn’t make an album until we’ve so-called ‘made it’.” But for this band, it will only be a step in the process. It’s difficult to imagine success ever going to Smith’s head. “I think humility brings people back to earth and stops them from getting their heads too far up their ass.” Like I said: he knows what he’s doing.

GET ON THE BUS!

Local expat band One Drop East will be hitting the road for Phoenix Park Resort in Pyeongchang, Gangwon-do June 23 and 24 and want to take along 35 of their fans for a full night of live music. Tickets are 119,000 won, which includes the bus ride up as well as booze and board. Get on the bus Saturday morning and arrive at around noon to lounge around the water park and get a good buzz on with your drink tickets. As night falls, stake out a spot on the grass to enjoy all the freaked-out rock and blazin' reggae grooves you can handle. The bus returns to Busan Sunday afternoon. On the music bill for the night are One Drop East, Sticky Fingers, Missing Jane, The Fastwalkers, Feed the Boats and Black Leather Lagoon. To book your tickets, contact Brian Kilrain: brian.onedropeast@gmail.com www.adventurekorea.com 40 38 HAPS_spring 2012

Nightlife & Music

WELCOME TO ROB ROK

BY SETH FELLENZ

“Wow, these guys sound good... Wait, is he playing a box?” Busan-based acoustic hip hop duo Robscenity do things a little differently. Guitarist and singer Rob Chrisman and Rob Evong on the cajón (basically a wooden box) can fill a room with more than just their sound - they fill it with dancing crowds. As they work their way through a set list that often seems to be thrown together onstage (and includes plenty of Rob-based jokes), they ferry listeners through a spectrum of musical styles, from soulful ballads to the crassest of punk to bouncing hip hop. And it’s all done with wry smiles and an energy that is hard to match. That unrestrained energy feeds the growing number of singing, dancing fans that follow them from show to show, but you can see it in other ways. Chrisman mashes his guitar as though there were no amplifier, blowing through extra strings two or three times per show, while Evong plays the cajón with such ferocity that he has to wrap his fingers in medical tape before they go onstage. Fortunately they overcome these Robstacles to rock venues all over town. What sets Robscenity apart from other Busan acts isn't their aggressive playing style, though. Although they play a few crowd-pleasing covers, the audience saves its most enthusiastic responses for their original songs. Chrisman is a talented songwriter, and uses his guitar to create catchy - and quality - backing beats. Their vocals are a mix of speedy rhymes, clever lyrics and a back-and-forth style that's a lot like banter. Robscenity is a collaboration in the truest sense, one that puts a dent in the mold that dictates guitarists also be frontmen. Their ability to transition from a heavy hip hop beat to a soft, melodic chorus and back again - in the same song - displays their impressive range. Lyrically, they are equally dynamic; while some might be left aghast at some of the duo's more salacious selections, their heartfelt explorations of life can be downright melancholy. There's nothing Robtuse about these two! If you're looking for something out of the ordinary, with a good sound, intelligent lyrics and a few more Rob-puns, you can check them out around Busan just about every weekend. I guarantee you'll be Robsessed!

A LITTLE TRUTH ABOUT LIED BY TORY MOCK While many Busan-based Korean bands find themselves struggling against the weight of expat bands to get the attention of the international crowd, the postgrunge quartet Lied has done well in standing out. There is, of course, their unique moniker. While its English connotation is obvious, their name is actually taken from German, which translates into “song”. From that, they were formed. Lied, which released their EP On My Shoulder a Dirty Dog last summer, consists of Lee Jeong-min on guitar and vocals, Kim Yun-jin on backing vocals and guitar, Masataka Kawa on bass and Baek Chung-Won on drums. Greatly influenced by the Foo Fighters, their music immediately strikes you with its energetic, fastpaced rhythms. The EP, which was recorded for the locally-based Realize Records label, is a quick hit of six songs that vary in style. According to Realize Records’ Ed Campbell, this is one of the group’s great draws as artists. “It’s great to have more people try a variety of songs and to compose the ideas themselves,” Campbell said. “We have a lot of great expectations with these guys. We are proud to have them with our label.” As for the fanciful double-entendre of their name, that’s also unique in its own way. Originating from the romantic period of 19th century German poetry, among English speakers, "lied" is now most often used interchangeably with "art song" to encompass works that the tradition has inspired in other languages. According to Jeong-min, that aspect appealed to him in choosing the name. “It came across in a very discreet and romantic fashion that displays the agony of love in the lyrical content. I really felt the nuances in the lyrics and I think it is beneficial for us to also 'feel' from 'within' each other. Our music can be a paradox, it is excitement mixed with negativity, but that's what makes it real.” Jeong-min adds that the mix is one of the aspects that draws the audience to the band. “The song's negativity puts our music down to earth where all people can relate to." 2012 spring_ busanhaps.com 39

Hotel Directory & News

HOTEL NEWS

WESTIN CHOSUN

67, Dongbaek-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan 051-749-7000 www.westinchosun.co.kr

PARADISE HOTEL

1408-5, Jung Dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan 82-51-742-2121 www.paradisehotel.co.kr

The Paradise Hotel is gearing up for early summer by offering “The Best” promotion, which runs until July 19. Soak up some sun in the afternoon with outdoor tanning and an evening couple spa under the stars while enjoying some sparkling wine. Packages begin at 200,000 won for the night.

Enjoy the breathtaking views of the sea from the Westin this summer and take advantage of the “Early Summer Package”, which runs until July 19. You can enjoy tanning, fine dining and great service at the hotel with three packages ranging from 210,000 to 390,000 won.

GRAND HOTEL

651-2, U Dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan 051-740,0610 www.grandhotel.com

The Grand Hotel has their “Early Spring Package” on until July 12. They offer two packages ranging from 150,000 to 220,000 won a night for a deluxe room which includes dining for two, complimentary tea and coffee and a teddy bear key ring.

LOTTE HOTEL

SEACLOUD HOTEL

The Lotte Hotel located right in the heart of Seomyeon has a “YooniSooni” package through August 12, which provides accommodation and transportation to the Yeosu Expo. The package includes a standard room, a photobook, shuttle bus service to the Expo, a picnic basket and sauna vouchers, all starting from 290,000 won.

In celebration of the Korean Tourism Organization’s “Visit Korea Year 2010-12” campaign, the Seacloud Hotel is offering a 4+1 promotion, where if you stay for four consecutive nights, the fifth night is free. The offer is subject to room availability and may not be used in conjunction with other special packages. The offer lasts until December 31, 2012.

772 Gayadae-ro, Jin-gu, Busan 051-810-1000 www.lottehotelbusan.com

HOMERS HOTEL

193-1 Gwangan 2-dong, Suyoung-gu, Busan 051-750-8000 www.homershotel.com

Opened in 2004, the Homers Hotel has become a major landmark of Gwangan. It offers two lounges and restaurants, as well as the best view of the Diamond Bridge at night. There is a fitness center, as well as spas and saunas to complete your stay within a stone’s throw of the beach. 40 HAPS_spring 2012

287 Haeundaehaebyun-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan 051.933.1000 www.seacloudhotel.com

Accomodation Guide

HILTON HOTEL [GYEONGJU]

370 Sinpyeong-dong, Gyeongju ph. 054-745-7788 www.hilton.co.uk/gyeongju

Located on the edge of Lake Bomun and surrounded by beautiful parks, countryside and majestic mountains, the Gyeongju Hilton Hotel offers luxurious accommodations to complete your day of sightseeing in the ancient capital of the Korean Silla Dynasty. Gyeongju offers a wealth of historic sights and attractions, while the hotel offers all of the latest amenities, including six restaurants and bars, an outdoor swimming pool, a health club and a business center.

HAEUNDAE THE WESTIN CHOSUN Do it right and crash in the same room George W. Bush did. 82-51-749-7000 www.starwoodhotels.com PARADISE HOTEL On the water; has a casino; an excellent spa and a pool. 82-51-742 2121 www.paradisehotel.co.kr SEACLOUD HOTEL Luxury stay with great restaurants. Short walk to the beach. 82-51-933-1000 www.seacloudhotel.com CENTUM HOTEL Near Shinsegae and BEXCO. Good subway access. 82-51-720-9000 www.centumhotel.co.kr SUNSET HOTEL Seventy-two rooms with, according to the site, “individual design concepts”. 82-51-730-9900 www.sunsethotel.co.kr NOVOTEL AMBASSADOR On the beach. Great ocean view, Murpii Nightclub. 82-51-743-1234 www.novotelbusan.com GRAND HOTEL One of the cheaper spots on the strip, but still at the beach. 82-51-740-0610 www.grandhotel.co.kr HOTEL ILLUA Lovely hotel with stunning views from its perch on Dalmaji Hill.

82-51-744-1331 www.hotelillua.com HANWHA RESORT Beautiful views of Oryuk-do, the bridge and the bridg. Close to the beach. 82-1588-2299 www.hanwharesort.co.kr BUSAN YOUTH HOSTEL ARPINA Opened in 2004, a cheap place to stay for the night. Culture center inside. 82-51-731-9800 www.arpina.co.kr BUSINESS AND BEACH HOTEL Located in central Haeundae, with easy access to the local historical sites. 82-51-742-3219 www.bnbhotel.co.kr

SEOMYEON LOTTE HOTEL Lotte runs a tight ship and it shows in the generous customer service here. 82-51-810-1000 www.lottehotelbusan.com TOYOKO INN Across from Migliore, comfortable, clean and affordable. 82-51-442-1045 www.toyoko-inn.com CROWN HOTEL Mid-range hotel decorated in Korean style, good for travellers. 82-51-635-1241 www.fnetravel.com/english/ pusanhotels/crown.html

GWANGAN HOMERS HOTEL Right on Gwangalli Beach amidst the myriad of cafes, bars and restaurants. 82-51-750-8000 www.homershotel.com AQUA PALACE Beautiful view of the Diamond Bridge, right in the middle of the beach. 82-51-756-0202 www.aquapalace.co.kr

JUNG-GU COMMODORE HOTEL Beautifully designed traditional hotel. Close proximity to Busan Station. 82-51-461-9703 www.commodore.co.kr BUSAN TOURIST HOTEL Conveniently located next to the train station. Good for a cheap night’s rest. 82-51-241-4301 www.pusanhotel.co.kr TOYOKO INN Affordably priced hotel, clean and 10 minutes away from the train station. 82-51-442-1045 www.toyoko-inn.com PHOENIX HOTEL Highly trained staff, close to Nampo-dong. Popular with Japanese tourists. 82-51-245-8061 www.hotelphoenix.net ELYSEE HOTEL Affordable hotel with good amenities. Close to Nampodong. 82-51-241-4008

www.elyseemotel.com

BUSAN STATION GUKJE HOTEL About 3 km away from the train station, close to Citizen’s Hall. 82-51-642-1330 www.hotelkukje.com TOYOKO INN The second location, this one is a minute away from the train station. 82-51-442-1045 www.toyoko-inn.com

OTHER AREAS PARAGON HOTEL (SASANG-GU) Business comfort, with close proximity to Gimhae International Airport. 82-51-328-2001 www.hotelparagon.com INDY HOUSE (KYUNGSUNG UNIVERSITY) Super cheap, dorm-style room right in the heart of Kyungsung. 82-70-8615-6442 BUSAN CENTRAL HOTEL (YEONSAN-DONG) Adjacent to Yeonsan rotary, located 10 minutes away from City Hall. 82-51- 866-6225 www.centralhotel.co.kr HOTEL NONG SHIM (ONCHEONJEONG) Great area around the hotel. Head north to PNU for original Busan nightlife. 82-51-550-2100 www.hotelnongshim.com 2012 spring_ busanhaps.com 41

Nightlife & Dining Directory

GWANGANLI BEACH BIKINI [Lounge/Beer Bar] Spacious club with dancing and such. BEACHED CAFE AND SPORTS BAR [Kiwi Sports Bar] open: 6pm - late tel: 051-924-9662 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ beached-cafe-sports-bar Recently renovated, this Kiwi-run sports bar has gained a huge expat following in the first year of existence for its spectacular bridge view, delicious menu and its wide array of Kiwi beer, the only place in the city to boast such a claim. Rugby is the sport of choice on the TV for the punters. BELLA CITTA [Italian] tel: 051-711-0010 web: www.busanhaps.com/food/bellacitta-italian Italian restaurant with an incredible interior, top notch menu and indoor garden seating. BURGER AND PASTA [International] Open: 11am - 12am tel: 051-751-6631 web: www.busanhaps.com/food/burgerand-pasta-gwangan The second of the Burger and Pasta shops around the city, this international eatery offers a great view of the bridge while you enjoy your day on the sand. Burgers, pasta and brunch are on the menu in the stylishly decorated restaurant in the middle of the main drag of Gwangan-li Beach. CLUB 3F [Dance/High End Nightclub] Dance club looking out over the water. Elegant. FOUR SEASONS [Raw Fish Korean] English speaking owner, 2nd fl. Fish Market. FUZZY NAVEL [Mexican/Lounge Bar] On the beach. Usually packed. Good Mexican food. GINZA [Japanese] tel: 051-751-7077 Pricey, but good quality food. GUESS WHO RESTAURANT [International] tel: 051-757-1213 Always busy with a nice patio deck. PARIS CAFE [International] Half coffee shop, half bar. Food is good too. PASTA E VINO [Italian] tel: 051-746-2500 Intimate beachside sport with good Italian cuisine. SAIGON PHO [Vietnamese] tel: 051-755-4205 Has been serving up Phở, the Vietnamese noodle soup since 1997. One of the few non-chain Vietnamese sports in town. Great food. 42 HAPS_spring 2012

SHARKY’S [American Sports Bar] tel: 010-4038-2907 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ sharkys-bar The newest Sharky’s has hit the beach in time for summer, with its great menu and service. SHIM HAE RAW FISH MARKET [Korean] tel: 051-753-6868 Everything seafood, all in one place THURSDAY PARTY [Korean/Expat Bar] open: 6pm - late web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ thursday-party A summer staple on Gwanganli Beach for the past couple of summers, Thursday Party has two locations situated next to each other on the east side of the beach. Both bars are similar to the Thursday Party city-wide theme, and offer a variety of American style pub grub to tempt your palate. WA BAR [Beer Bar] Wide selection of beer laid out for your choosing.

HAEUNDAE AN GA [Korean] tel: 051-742-7852 Very popular bbq meat restaurant in Haeundae. BELLA CITTA [Italian] tel: 051-747-6351 Delicious, real Italian cuisine with a nice interior. BILLIE JEAN [Lounge/Live Music] tel: 051-742-0297 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ billiejean A Haps favorite. Great decor. Ladies drink for free Thursday nights. BURGER AND PASTA [International] open: 11am - 2am web: www.busanhaps.com/food/burgerand-pasta-haeundae Recently opened, this Western/Korean fusion style restaurant has been packing them in since day one. Burgers, pasta and brunch are on the menu in the stylishly decorated restaurant, where you can also imbibe yourself to a glass of wine, a cocktail or beer after your day on the beach. CHEOLMA HANWOO BULGOGI [Korean] tel: 051-709-4000 Bulgogi done at its best. CINE DE CHEF [Italian] tel: 051-745-2880 In Shinsegae, enjoy a good meal and a movie. CLUB ELUNE [Nightclub] Busan’s super club. A must see at least once. EL OLIVE [Italian]

tel: 051-752-7300 Delicious Italian, close to Costco. FUZZY NAVEL [Mexican/Bar] tel: 051-746-6439 Usually packed on weekends. Good grub. GANGA [Indian] Expect to pay some good money, but it’s worth it. GECKOS [Pub] Beach front bar. Consistently good food. GEN SUSHI [Japanese] tel: 051-740-6630 Affordable sushi. Good stuff. HELLO THAI [Thai] tel: 051-731-5033 Good Thai food in the heart of Haeundae. HQ JANGSAN [American Sports Bar] Great bar to get your drink on with some wings. LOVING HUT [Vegetarian] tel: 051-747-2979 web: www.lovinghut.co.kr All organic, all good. Veggie paradise. MAKTUM [Nightclub] If Elune is packed, head to Maktum. MARIS [Buffet] tel: 051-704-8870 Great seafood buffet. Across from Primus in Jangsan. MIAMI 88 [Lounge Bar] On the beach. Patio and good service. MURPII [Nightclub] In the Novotel. Dancing, drinking, business class. NAMASTE [Indian] tel: 051-746-1946 Indian fine dining. Good prices and great food. PHO KIM [Vietnamese] tel: 051-740-4868 Good food at a good price. Great soup, located in SFUNZ. ROCK N’ ROLL HOUSE [Casual Lounge] Great atmosphere. Two pool tables, great view. SHARKY’S [American Sports Bar] tel: 010-4038-2907 open: 6pm - 2am web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ sharkys-bar This San Diego-inspired bar has become a fixture of the Haeundae Beach crowd renowned for its spectacular food and service. International comfort food is masterfully prepared by Chef Oscar in a comfortable, yet unpretentious atmosphere. Located just a stone’s throw away from the beach on the second floor of the Pale de CZ. STARFACE [International Pub] tel: 051-742-0600 open: 6pm - late web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ starface

This rustic British pub has been a mainstay on Dalmaji Hill for years. The enticing international menu offers British, Indian and Mexican fare, making this a quality place to get a bite as well as indulge in some darts or pool. Live music weekends add to the party, and offer a happy hour from 6:30 - 9 pm Sunday through Thursday. SUNTORY [Japanese] Food and drink in a classy setting. Bonzai! T.G.I. FRIDAY’S [Chain] tel: 051-740-6531 Good reliable chain in the Harbor Town Building. THE WOLFHOUND PUB [Irish Pub] tel: 051-746-7940 open: 6pm - 2am weekdays, 11am - 2am weekends web: www.wolfhoundpub.com No city in the world would be complete without an Irish pub, and the Wolf is Busan’s homage to Dublin. Wooden table seating with subtle lighting make this pub a relaxed place to grab a drink, watch some rugby and grab some sumptuous international cuisine. The “No Bullshit Pour” policy is a good indicator for the strength of their drinks. THURSDAY PARTY [Korean/Expat Bar] tel: 051-744-6621 open: 6pm - late web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ thursday-party A staple of the Busan landscape, Thursday Party Haeundae offers a casual, yet comfortable option after a day at the beach. With a patio for outdoor sitting, this open-aired spacious pub brings the usual quality service the locals and expats have come to expect from the Thursday Party empire. U2 BAR [Lounge] Caters more to the Korean crowd these days, but still good to lounge out. VAN GOGH TERRACE [Italian] tel: 051-741-3767 Nice view of the water while you eat.

KYUNGSUNG ALMOST FAMOUS [Dance/Techno] Funky atmosphere, great staff, live music. AUSSIE BURGER [International] Burgers, fries and Aussie pies. AYUTA [Indian] Friendly staff, good food. BEJING GO-CHI [Chinese] Great skewers, great food, cheap prices. BLUE MONKEY [Dance/Hip Hop] tel. 051-611-2888 open: 7pm to late web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ blue-monkey With its illuminative and decorative

Dining & Food style, Blue Monkey has impressive DJ sets on the weekend, and doubles as more of a lounge-style chill vibe during the weekdays. With an impressive menu and a booming sound system, ladies can also drink half price from 7 - 9 p.m. BON BON [Italian] tel: 051-621-0906 Great little spot next to Kyungsung U. BURGER AND PASTA [International] tel: 051-625-6651 open: 11am - 11pm web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ burger-pasta With three locations around Busan, Burger and Pasta offer solid menu, and reasonable prices that make them a hit with young Koreans and expats. Set in the traditional Thursday Party wooden decor, they offer pasta, burgers and a brunch with a small patio to enjoy the street catwalk on sunny days. CAFE RADIO [Cafe] Great atmosphere. Relax with a book. CLUB FABRIC [Rock/Event] Live music, warm cozy decor. DUGOUT [Sports Bar] Home of Lotte Giants games. EVAS [International/Lounge] Been around awhile, and still packs them in. FULLY BOOKED [Cafe] tel. 010-4469-9658 Used book store, bar, cafe. Great concept. GRAZIOSO [Italian] Dirt cheap Italian located in the Spark Building. HQ BAR [American/Sports Bar] tel. 010-2857-2367 Where the real mean go to drink and BS. KINO EYE [Dance Club] Dark atmosphere. Live music on occasion. LONG. T BAR [Lounge Bar] Large bar with cheap Long Island’s. Pool table and darts. MONK’S JAZZ CLUB [Jazz Club] Busan’s only jazz club. Tuesday nights are hot. NI HAO CHINESE [Chinese] Good Chinese at affordable prices. O’TACO [Mexican] tel: 051-627-8358 Good Mexican food and lunch specials. OL’ 55 [Live Music/Event] tel: 051-627-5645 open: 7pm - late web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ ol’55 Ol’55 is located in the heart of Kyungsung University and is noted for its Open Mic Wednesdays, which are known to host the best Korean and expat musicians in town. The atmosphere is cool, there is free pool and a pay dart

machine, and Sunday nights host an expat trivia. PAINTED CHAIR CAFE [Cafe/Gallery] The art, the atmosphere. Good place to chill. SHABANA [Indian] tel: 051-621-4821 Good, affordable Indian food. THE SUSHI [Japanese] tel: 051-611-4043 Affordable, quality Japanese food. THURSDAY PARTY [Korean/Expat Bar] open: 6pm - late web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ thursday-party2 With nine Thursday Party’s around the city, it has become a staple for the young, hip Korean university crowd and expats alike. Beer pong, sports on TV and the free curry popcorn or salted spaghetti sticks are always in play, as is a busy crowd almost every evening of the week. VINYL UNDERGROUND [Nightclub/Event Bar] open: Weekends 8pm - late www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/vinyl Vinyl Underground is known as the spot for live music in the Kyungsung area. With over ten years of showcasing live music and DJ dance club weekends, owner Kim Dong-ha has established the “Yellow Banana Bar” as one of the longest must visit watering holes around the area.

PNU CROSSROADS [Live Music/Pub] tel: 051-515-1181 open: 7pm-late web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ crossroads A small, but atmospheric watering hole in PNU, Crossroads has been a Busan institution amongst the expats for years. The subtly-lit second floor venue has a Happy Hour on offer every day from 7pm to 8pm on gin, vodka and rum mixes, and a Ladies Night Friday, for singles to meet other singles. FARMERS BURGERS [American/Korean Fusion] People rave about it. Nominated in Best Burger. GANESH [Indian] Small spot with good Indian fare on the menu. INTERPLAY [Live Music/Event] Live music, hit or miss if you catch on a good night. LOVING HUT [Vegetarian] www.lovinghut.co.kr tel: 051-518-0115 MOO MONK [Live Music] Can catch some great Korean indie bands here.

PHO [Vietnamese] Nice Vietnamese food in PNU. RED BOTTLE [Korean/Expat Bar] Good spot to get a drink, and play some darts. SHABANA [Indian] tel: 051-517-1947 Nice Indian food for cheap. SOULTRANE [Comedy/Event/Rock] tel: 051-515-1181 open: 7pm-late web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ soul-trane One of the oldest expat bars in the city, the once foreigner oriented Soultrane nonetheless draws a healthy mix of locals, expats and tourists. Happy Hours greet every evening from 8pm to 10pm, and it’s the bar of choice for local comedians every first Friday of the Month for the Ha Ha Hole. THE BASEMENT [Korean/Expat Bar] web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ basement One of the most popular bars in the area. Always a great time, and anchors the PNU scene.

SEOMYEON BUFFALO CHICKEN [Chicken] tel: 051-805-3512 Good chicken chain with several interesting sauces. BUONA OVEN PIZZA [Italian] tel: 051-904-8239 Nice, oven-baked pizza and spaghetti. CLUB FIX [Nightclub] tel: 051-905-5777 web: www.clubfixkorea.info New super club. International DJs and dress code required. DIVISION 9 [Lounge] Pinball, darts, basketball, drinking and good fun. DRAGON DREAM (THE CAVE BAR) [Korean] tel: 051-646-5924 Very interesting decor with a nice selection of food. FLORIAN’S [Italian] Buffet with a wide selection of dishes. FOXY DANCE [Club] Dance club, usually packed on the weekend. FRESH FRIES FACTORY [International] Some good fish n’ chips and other tasty foods. FUZZY NAVEL [Mexican/Bar] Similar to the others around the city. Good food. JUDIE NINE BRAU [Brew Pub] Good place for home-brewed beer. LOVING HUT [Vegetarian] tel: 051-808-7718

www.lovinghut.co.kr METAL CITY [Rock/Live Music] Pool, darts and live music. ROCK N’ ROLL BAR [Rock] A true dive. Good atmosphere and pool and darts. T.G.I. FRIDAY’S [Chain] tel: 051-805-3164 Two locations in Seomyeon to choose from. THE SPOT [Lounge/Bottle Service] Bottle service, recently under renovations. THURSDAY PARTY [Korean/Expat Bar] tel: 051-818-6621 open: 6pm - late www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/thursdayparty-1 You can expect more of the same from the Seomyeon Thursday Party, which caters to a young, eclectic mix of Koreans and expats. Nestled amongst a slew of bars and restaurants behind Judie’s Taewha, Thursday Party stands out for their unique charm, quality service and hip atmosphere amongst the Korean cool. VITO [Italian] tel: 051-806-5868 Open: Early for lunch, late for dinner www.busanhaps.com/food/vito Fashioned in the tradition of the small Italian trattoria, Vito brings back a taste of the old country. While the exquisite food is served in an elegant surrounding, this eatery is tucked away in the back streets of Seomyeon, though its reputation for quality ingredients, reasonable prices and attentive service are far from a secret.

2012 spring_ busanhaps.com 43

Services Directory

AIRLINES AIR BUSAN tel: 051-974-8686 web: www.busanair.com ASIANA AIRLINES - DOMESTIC tel: 051-972-4004 web: www.flyasiana.com ASIANA AIRLINES - INTERNATIONAL tel: 051-971-2626 web: www.flyasiana.com CEBU PACIFIC AIR tel: 051-462-0686 web: www.cebupacificair.com JEJU AIR tel: 070-7420-1502 web: www.jejuair.net KOREAN AIR - DOMESTIC tel: 051-970-3314 web: www.koreanair.com KOREAN AIR - INTERNATIONAL tel: 051-970-3227 web: www.koreanair.com LUFTHANSA AIR tel: 070-8686-2531 web: www.lufthansa.com TRANSASIA AIRWAYS tel: 051-463-0093 web: www.tna.com.tw

KINDERGARTEN 548-1 Choryang-dong, Dong-gu tel: 051-468-2845 web: kbces.com.ne.kr INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF BUSAN 798 Nae-ri, Gijang-eup, Gijang-gun tel: 051-742-3332 web: www.bifskorea.org

KOREAN LESSONS BUSAN FOUNDATION FOR INTERNATIONAL ACTIVITIES tel: 051-668-7900 web: www.bfia.or.kr email: busanglobalcenter@gmail.com KLIFF tel: 051-513-0131 web: www.kliff.co.kr email: jennakang@hanmail.net PNU LANGUAGE EDUCATION CENTER tel: 051-510-1983 web: www.ili.pusan.ac.kr email: bangjy77@pusan.ac.kr

TESOL TRAINING TESOL ALLIANCE tel: 051-818-0502 web: www.tesolalliance.com

BUSINESS ORGANIZATIONS

INFORMATION

AMCHAM #4501, Trade Tower 159-1, Samsungdong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul tel: 02-564-2040 www.amchamkorea.org An independent association of American and international businesses, the role of the American Chamber of Commerce is to promote business and trade between the United States and Korea. EUCCK Paradise Hotel (Main Bldg.), 1408-5 Jungdong, Haeundae-gu tel: 051-744-6711 eucck.org The European Chamber of Commerce aims to provide an effective network of business associates together with discussion forums and seminars on how to do business in Korea, as well as an array of social networking events.

EXPAT ASSISTANCE

EDUCATION FOREIGN SCHOOLS BUSAN FOREIGN SCHOOL 1366-3 Jwa-dong, Haeundae-gu tel: 051-747-7199 web: www.busanforeignschool.org BUSAN JAPANESE SCHOOL 173-8 Millak-dong, Suyoung-gu tel: 051-753-4166 web: user.chollian.net/~pusjpnsc BUSAN OVERSEAS CHINESE 44 HAPS_spring 2012

CALL CENTER FOR FOREIGN RESIDENTS IN BUSAN tel: 1577-7716 FREE TRANSLATION SERVICE (BBB) tel: 1588-5644 MULTICULTURAL FAMILY SUPPORT CENTER tel: 1577-5432

INFORMATION CENTERS TOURIST INFORMATION SERVICE tel: 1330 BEXCO TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER tel: 051-740-7300 BUSAN GLOBAL CENTER tel: 1577-7716 BUSAN INT’L PASSENGER TERMINAL TOURIST INFORMATION tel: 051-465-3471 BUSAN STATION TOUR INFORMATION tel: 051-441-6565 GIMHAE INT’L AIRPORT TOUR INFORMATION (DOMESTIC) tel: 051-973-4607 GIMHAE INT’L AIRPORT TOUR INFORMATION (INTERNATIONAL) tel: 051-973-2800

HAEUNDAE TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER tel: 051-749-5700 INTERNATIONAL FERRY INFORMATION CENTER tel: 051-465-3471 NOPODONG BUS TERMINAL TOURIST INFORMATION tel: 051-508-9400 UN MEMORIAL CEMETERY TOURIST INFORMATION tel: 051-625-1608

MEDICAL HEALTH CENTERS DONGNAE HEALTH CENTER 702-54, Myeongryun-2 dong, Dongnae-gu tel:051-555-4000 Gangseo-gu Health Center 2009-1, Daejeo-2 dong, Gangseo-gu tel: 051-972-6101 HAEUNDAE HEALTH CENTER 1339, Jwa-2 dong, Haeundae-gu tel: 051-746-4000 JUNG-GU HEALTH CENTER 1 Ga 1, Daecheong-dong, Jung-gu tel: 051-600-4741

HERBAL CLINICS DONGEUI UNIVERSITY KOREAN MEDICAL HOSPITAL 45-1, Yangjeong-2 dong, Busanjin-gu tel: 051-867-5101 DONGEUI UNIVERSITY HOSPITAL 397-3, Bujeon-1 dong, Busanjin-gu tel: 051-803-5430 GOOD SAMSUN HANBANG 1162-2, Jurye-dong, Sasang-gu tel: 051-325-0300

HOSPITALS BUK-GU/DONGNAE

INJE UNIVERSITY BUSAN PAIK HOSPITAL 1435, Jwa-dong tel: 051-890-6114 web: www.paik.ac.kr

HAEUNDAE HYOSUNG CITY HOSPITAL 1094-2, Jaesong 1-dong tel: 051-709-3000 web: www.hshos.com INJE UNIV. HAEUNDAE PAIK HOSPITAL 1435, Jwa-dong tel: 051-797-0100 web: www.paik.ac.kr/Haeundae

JUNG-GU HAEYANG HOSPITAL 80-8 Jungang-dong 4-ga tel: 051-469-4456 web: www.haeyang.net MARYKNOLL MEDICAL CENTER 12, Daecheong-dong 4-ga tel: 051-465-8801 web: www.maryknoll.co.kr

NAM-GU BUSAN ST. MARY'S MEDICAL CENTER 538-41, Yongho 4-dong tel: 051-933-7114 web: www.bsm.or.kr

SEO-GU DONG-A UNIVERSITY MEDICAL CENTER 3-ga, #1 Dongdaeshin-dong tel: 051-240-2400 web: www.damc.or.kr PUSAN NATIONAL UNIVERSITY HOSPITAL 10, Ami-dong 1-ga tel: 051-254-0171 web: www.pnug.co.kr

BUMIN HOSPITAL SUYEONG 380-4, Deokcheon 1-dong tel: 051-330-3000 BUSAN CENTUM web: www.buminhos.co.kr HOSPITAL 1077-1, Gwangan 3-dong DONG EUI MEDICAL CENTER tel: 051-760-5000 San 45-1, Yangjeong 2-dong web: www.centumhospital.com tel: 051-867-5101 web: www.demc.kr BUSAN HANNAH WOMAN'S HOSPITAL DONGNAE BONG SENG 304, Namcheon-dong HOSPITAL tel: 051-625-2300 766, Anlak 1-dong web: www.hannah4u.co.kr tel: 051-531-6000 web: www.bongseng.com GOOD GANGAN HOSPITAL DONGRAE WOORIDUL HOSPITAL 40-1, 41-9, Namcheon-dong 205-10, Nakmin-dong tel: 051-625-0900 tel: 051-559-5000 web: www.gang-an.or.kr web: www.dongrae.wooridul.co.kr

MUSEUMS

SHOPPING

BUSAN MUSEUM OF ART 40, Apec-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan tel: 051-740-2602 web: www.art.busan.go.kr Opening Hours - 09:00 ~ 20:00 Closed - Jan. 1, Every First Monday Admission Fee - Free BUSAN MODERN HISTORY MUSEUM 104, Daechung-ro, Jung-gu, Busan tel: 051-253-3845 web: www.modern.busan.go.kr Opening Hours - 09:00 ~ 18:00 Closed - Jan.1, Every First Monday Admission Fee - Free BUSAN MUSEUM 63, UN Peace-ro, Nam-gu, Busan tel: 051-610-7111 web: www.museum.busan.go.kr Hours of operation - 09:00 ~ 20:00 Closed - Jan. 1, Every First Monday Admission fee - Free BUSAN UN MEMORIAL CEMETERY AND PARK 779, Daeyon 4 dong, Nam-gu, Busan tel: 051-625-0625 web: www.unmck.or.kr Hours of operation - 09:00 ~ 17:00 Open Year Round Admission fee - Free

DEPT. STORES

RELIGIOUS SERVICES AL-FATIH MASJID MOSQUE Namsan-dong, #30-1 Guemjeong-gu tel: 051-518-9991 web: www.busanislam.or.kr Services: 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily BUSAN CHINESE CHURCH Choryang1-dong, #548-2, Dong-gu tel: 051-467-0275 GIFT MINISTRY Myung-nyun-dong, Dongnae-gu tel: 010-7999-8644 web: www.tinyurl.com/lifeisagift Services: Saturdays,10:30 a.m. HONGBEOPSA TEMPLE Dugu-dong, #1220-1, Guemjeong-gu tel: 010-8771-6265 HOSANNA CHURCH Myeongji-dong, #3245-5 Gangseo-gu, tel: 051-209-0191 web: www.him-busan.blogspot.com Services: Sundays, 12:30 p.m.

LOTTE DEPT. STORE www.lotteshopping.com Open: 10:30 ~ 20:00 FOUR LOCATIONS CENTUM CITY 1496, U Dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan tel: 051-730-2500 DONGNAE 502-3, Oncheonjeong, Dongnae-gu, Busan tel: 051-605-2500 GWANGBOK 20-1, 7 ga, Jung-ang Dong, Jung-gu, Busan tel: 051-678-2500 SEOMYEON Bujeondong, Busan-jingu, Busan tel: 051-810-2500 HYUNDAI DEPT. STORE 62-5, Beomil-dong, Dong-gu, Busan tel: 051-667-2233 Open: 10:30 ~ 20:00 SHINSEGAE DEPT. STORE (CENTUM CITY) 1495 Wu-dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan tel: 1588-1234 web: www.english.shinsegae.com Open: 10:30 ~ 20:00

and the pro in both English and Korean. Along with a great selection of the latest equipment, we also book national and international dive tours for dive enthusiasts. Contact us today for more info! EPIK TEACHERS IN BUSAN Facebook Group: Busan EPIK EXPAT SAILING CLUB Contact: Mark Chi email: Koreasailing@gmail.com web: www.busansailing.com FIELD HOCKEY Facebook Group: Field Hockey in South Korea LAOCHRA BUSAN GAELIC ATHLETIC ASSOCIATION CLUB Contact: Peter Bonner tel: 010-8344-1410 email: busangaa@gmail.com Facebook Group: Laochra Busan Members ROKD ROLLER DERBY koreaderby@gmail.com Facebook Group: ROKD Republic of Korea Derby SALSA DANCING web: www.busansalsa.blogspot.com SOCRATES CAFE Facebook Group: Busan Socrates Cafe

GET SCUBA CERTIFIED IN BUSAN! ULTIMATE FRISBEE Sea World Dive Center is a friendly & professional PADI CERTIFIED SCUBA center Facebook Group: BusanUltimate based right here in Busan. We offer a wide WORDZ ONLY selection of courses for both the beginner Facebook Group: WordZ Only

CLOTHING/SPORTS KAI SURF SHOP 183-11 Gwangan-dong, Suyeong-gu tel: 051-753-2746

SOCIAL/NON-PROFIT ORGANIZATIONS

BUSAN BANDITS RUGBY Facebook Group: Busan Bandits BUSAN BEACH VOLLEYBALL Facebook Group: Busan Beach Volleyball BUSAN BOOK SWAP Facebook Page: Busan Book Swap BUSAN BOWLING LEAGUE Contact: David Alderman tel:010.7919.1223 Facebook Group: Busan Bowling League

INTERNATIONAL COMMUNITY CHURCH Minerva Hall, Pusan University of Foreign Studies tel: 010-8326-1985 web: www.iccbusan.org Services: Sundays, 10:30 a.m.

BUSAN FOUNDATION FOR INTERNATIONAL ACTIVITIES tel: 051-668-7900 web: www.bfia.or.kr

ONNURI ENGLISH SERVICE Jangsan, Haeundae-gu tel: 010-7570-9171 Services: Sundays, 10 a.m..

BUSAN SCUBA Facebook Group: Busan Scuba

BUSAN FRIENDSHIP GROUP www.meetup.com/Pusans

BTC FOOTBALL FB Group: Busan Transportation Corporation Supporters Fanpage 2012 spring_ busanhaps.com 45

Around Town

Social Scene

SCENE MAKERS

SCENE & HEARD ALL OVER BUSAN

BIWA SPRING CHARITY BALL

EUCCK YEOSU EXPO EVENT

46 HAPS_spring 2012

2012 spring_ busanhaps.com 47

The Last Word

THARP ON:

SUMMER

BY CHRIS THARP ILLUSTRATION BY SARAH ELMINSHAWI

t’s summer here on the peninsula, or as I like to refer like Led Zeppelin did hotel rooms. But I am a guest here, and they to it – The Great Gush – that time of year when sweat really do believe that the best way to cool down is to take even pours forth through my pores like a fat guy trekking in more heat into your body. This is why, during any of the three the Congo. It’s ridiculous, really. Just the mild exertion days of summer considered to be the most scorching (known as of picking up my attendance book from my office and the bong nal), you will see serpentine lines out of Korea’s samgymarching into class causes circles of dank shame to emanate etang (chicken soup) and boshingtang (dog soup) restaurants. In from beneath my armpits and neck. My students look on with this, they’re no different than Americans, really: during the suma mix of curiosity and horror, cocking their heads like quizzical mer heat, we too like to eat chicken and hot dogs cooked on an puppies, until one of the braver ones points towards the area open flame. of seepage, moves her finger in a circular motion and gasps: I usually get out of Korea in the summertime, often going back “Teacher, why???” to Seattle to enjoy one of the three months out of the year that A Korean doesn’t sweat like a big pink Westerner; this is just a doesn’t make me want to kill myself. There I enjoy the good life, fact. One visit to the gym will prove this true. I’ve often looked relaxing with family and friends and binging on turkey sandwichover at the ajosshi working the treadmill next to me, only to see a es, microbrews and episodes of The Daily Show. But alas, rising light dew of perspiration so perfectly glistening on his forehead. airfares and several years of financial hemophilia have grounded It’s almost cute, really. I am not so lucky, me this time around, so I’ll be spendthough, instead leaving a great, nasty ing every muggy minute right here. MY STUDENTS LOOK ON WITH sweat-slick beneath me that summons But what am I supposed to do? Go to A MIX OF CURIOSITY AND visions of the Exxon Valdez. I’ve even the beach? slipped on the stuff a couple of times. I I hate the beach. Okay, don’t get HORROR, COCKING THEIR am not proud. me wrong – I like swimming and HEADS LIKE QUIZZICAL Even if they sweat less than some of snorkeling and doing some beachy us, Koreans do feel the heat, and try PUPPIES, UNTIL ONE OF THE things – but the beach in the sumto beat it a number of different ways. BRAVER ONES POINTS TO- mer is just a magnate for assholes The preferred method for the elderly pretty much any country in the WARDS THE AREA OF SEEP- in is to wearily sit on low-rise tables outworld. And in Korea, it’s crazy! Once AGE, MOVES HER FINGER IN “Beach Season” begins, the hordes doors (known as ajumma platforms), A CIRCULAR MOTION AND hiss, grunt, and watch the world ooze descend like a Biblical locust plague. by. Sometimes a really mean looking GASPS: “TEACHER, WHY???” Have you ever been to Haeundae grandma will light up a ciggy. It’s still Beach during the height of summer? a bit culturally taboo for women to smoke in Korea, but once You can smell it 20 minutes before you see it – a rank concoction they’re over 70 they just don’t give a shit, and no one is brave of wet clothes, squid and BO. And the sheer number of people enough to tell them to stop. Go on: I dare you. The men prefer for your eyes to take in fries your synapses; a writhing mass of to cool off by heading to the nation’s saunas for a good sweat over 700,000 bellowing human beings is there with you. It’s like and phlegm-clearing. Nothing takes the edge off the heat bet- going swimming with the whole state of Wyoming. At any given ter than hocking up half-a-liter worth of loogies. I’ve witnessed moment, at least 3,400 children are peeing in the shallows. And it firsthand. for those of you brave enough to take a dip in the urine-saturated The midsummer visit to the sauna is just an example of the Ko- water? Be prepared to share it with empty Hite cans, plastic bags rean idea of “fighting fire with fire”. It’s the same reason some and half-consumed chicken legs. restaurants will serve you warm water with your meal when the So I think I’ll avoid the beach this year. Hell, maybe I’ll give the whole outside world is aflame. I’m a red-blooded, ice-in-my-wa- whole summer a skip and sleep it off, Rip Van Winkle-style. Just ter American, and this practice goes against everything I believe don’t let me leave the fan on. in. It has nearly caused me to go berserk and trash the restaurant You can check out Tharp’s blog: www.homelyplanet.wordpress.com 48 HAPS_spring 2012

Puzzle

HAPSWORD ACROSS

3. Hallasan Home 6. Japan’s Jealous 8. Konglish: Awesome! 12. Home of Busan’s famous fish 14. E-Mart Enemy 16. Brits rocking a ski resort this July 17. Busan’s cousin, purple with envy

DOWN

1. Korean: Sometimes it’s kay, sometimes it’s… 2. How are you today, class? 4. Place to peek at pink flowers 5. Much ado over this in Shakespeare in Busan 7. Busan is this, so they say 9. When in Korea: Don’t mention it 10: Konglish: Haeundae _______ 11. Pronounced “whiting”, sort of 13: Korean: Huzzah! 15: Recently three years old

Dong-eui Medical Center

Advertorial

FIGHTING FAT WITH ORIENTAL MEDICINE

Most Westerners have seen all manner of diet fads back home, but few are aware of the benefits of traditional Oriental treatments for reducing weight. Dong-eui Medical Center’s Oriental Esthetic & Obesity Center offers people great options for not only shedding excess weight, but for actually restoring muscle tissue and body shape back to its original state. According to nurse Lee Hei-sung, the weight loss program focuses on the long term rather than a quick fix. “This program helps reduce the ‘yo-yo effect’ of dieting by ensuring natural weight loss,” she said. “Our program keeps the the body slim without any of the side effects by correcting unhealthy habits.” Along with herbal therapy, the Oriental method includes several types of painless acupuncture that infuse the body with herbal remedies that stimulate the lipolytic processes that occur in the body naturally. There is also a very interesting form of acupuncture to the ears which acts to suppress hunger by stimulating the region of the brain where hunger occurs. Along with a regiment of multi-vitamins and herbs to help

the body better do what occurs naturally, there are other herbal mixtures that help stimulate body metabolism, as well as increasing your body’s ability to absorb essential nutrients into the system. While this all sounds good, don’t think that you are getting off easy with an effortless weight loss program—there is exercise involved, too. The program at Dong-eui includes a personally designed exercise program that can be done in the exercise therapy room at the hospital or at home. Finally, the program includes remedies to help your skin look younger. “With this treatment, we can improve the shape of your face, as well as reduce wrinkles by helping the circulation in your muscles and skin,” said Hei-sung. So, if you have been putting off that New Year’s resolution to rid yourself of those extra pounds, contact Lee Hei-sung at Dong Eui Medical Center to get started looking better right away. The medical center offers complete English service and is located near the Yangjeong subway station on line 1. You can contact Hei-sung for an appointment by phone at 051-850-8941 or 0109457-8941 or by email at imc8941@demc.or.kr. 2012 spring_ busanhaps.com 49

BMW 02 Dealership 02

02 SFUNZ

03 04 03

Shopping

Save Zone Dept. Store

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Dawn Beach Hotel

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Park Hotel

Bar/Pub/Lounge

Sub 03 way Stn .

Cafe

Shopping Bar/Pub/Lounge

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Restaurant

Restaurant Cafe

SEOMYEON

[PUSAN NATIONAL UNIVERSITY] 01

Dongcheon Road

08 12

PNU Main Gate

Pusan National Uni. Road

4 2 13

Kayodae Road

ad Geumjeong Ro

Bar/Pub/Lounge

PNU Subway Stn

Business

01 02

Lotte Dept. Store

Restaurant Cafe 46 50 HAPS_spring 2012

Tewha 03 Judyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Dept. Store 01

Jungkangdae Road

Seomyeon Subway Stn.

04 03 02

02 04 03

8 10

Busan Bank

Sojeon Road

ong Roa

Geumje

Good Plus

Dongcheon Road

Jungang Middle School

Migliore Fashion Mall

Sojeon Road

PNU

To N

Club

Pale De Cz

05 02

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Haeundae Beach

Paradise Hotel & Casino

Paradise Hotel Dept. Store

01 01

Toyota Dealership Haeundae City Hall

Homers Hotel

e ac hR o ad

Haeundae Aquarium

Lotte Hotel & Seven Luck Casino

Seomyeon Road

Cosmetic Surgery Street

Haeundae Tourist Office

Gw ang an B

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Haeundae 01 Bus Depot

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Harbour Town

GWANGAN

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HAEUNDAE

Haeundae Subway & Train Stn

Business Club Bar/Pub/Lounge Restaurant Cafe

KYUNGSUNG

LEGEND

Bukyung University

12 g eon S uy

Ro a

Car Park

Perugio Apartments

02 2

Century 21 Building 3

Yongsu Road

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5 6

Kyungsung University

04 03

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Bar/Pub/Lounge

McDonalds

CGV

Restaurant Cafe

GS Gas Station

02 Beach Bikini 03 Thursday Party Business 04 Fuzzy Navel 05 Beached Club 06 Sharky’s Bar/Pub/Lounge RESTAURANTS 01 Burger n’ Pasta Restaurant 02 Bella Citta 03 Blue Saigon Cafe CAFES 01 Tom n’ Toms HAEUNDAE 02 Twosome Place CLUBS 03 Starbucks 01 Murphii BUSINESS 02 Elune 01 Kai Surf Shop 03 Maktum BARS/PUBS/ PNU LOUNGES 01 Thursday Party BARS/PUBS/ LOUNGES 02 Miami 88 01 Thirsty Moose 03 Wolfhound 02 Wa Bar 04 Rock n’ Roll 03 Basement 05 Fuzzy Navel 04 Crossroads 06 U2 04 Soultrane 07 Miami 88 II 05 Red Bottle 08 Sector 510 06 Interplay 09 Gecko’s 07 Moo Monk 10 Sharky’s 08 Bling 11 Billie Jean RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS 01 Won Chon 01 TGI Friday’s 01 Mad For Garlic 02 The Box 03 Tajmahal 01 Ganga 02 Hello Thai CAFES 03 Namaste 01 Angel-In-Us 04 Loving Hut 02 Charlie Brown 03 Twosome Place CAFES 01 Coffine Gurunaru 04 Starbucks 05 Coffee Bean & 02 Angel-In-Us Tea Leaf 03 Angel-In-Us 04 Starbucks SEOMYEON 05 Caffe Bene CLUBS 01 Fix GWANGAN 02 Foxy BARS/PUBS/ BARS/PUBS/ LOUNGES LOUNGES 01 Paris

01 Rock n’ Roll 02 Spot 03 Thursday Party 04 Fuzzy Navel 05 Metal City RESTAURANTS 01 Vito 02 TGI Friday’s CAFES 01 Angel-In-Us 02 Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf 03 Twosome Place 04 Tom n’ Toms BUSINESS 01 Kangs Dental 02 Apple Store KYUNGSUNG BARS/PUBS/ LOUNGES 01 Almost Famous 02 Club Realize 03 HQ 04 Blue Monkey 05 Eva’s 06 Dugout 07 Thursday Party 08 New Foxy 09 Vinyl Underground 10 Ol’55 11 Fabric 12 Fully Booked 13 Monk RESTAURANTS 01 O’Taco 02 Burger & Pasta 03 Outback 04 Okkudak CAFES 01 Starbucks 02 Tom n’ Toms 03 Angel-In-Us 04 Angel-In-Us

47 2012 spring_ busanhaps.com 51

BUSAN METRO MAP Humetro Call Center Lost & Found Center

52 HAPS_spring 2012

Seomyeon Stn.

Fresh is Best

At Jangsan Fresh Burger, we pride ourselves on using the freshest produce, the most flavorsome cheese, 100% Australian beef from grazed cows and a fine assortment of gourmet Italian bread.We also have Santory premium beer on offer and have a good selection of bottled beer as well. All of this you can enjoy on our large outdoor patio area. We are able to service our expat clients in English and Japanese, so next time youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re in, feel free to ask us about hosting or catering your next special event.

Fresh Burger Jangsan

051-989-4311

www.freshburger.co.kr

Gonyong #2 Apartments

Angel In Us

Cafe OPEN MON-SAT 11AM-11PM OPEN SUNDAY 11AM-10PM Devravita Officetel

Thursday Party

www.7luck.com Tel. 051.665.6000

Busan Lotte Hotel 2F