Haps Magazine Issue 21 by Haps Magazine

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CONTENTS FEATURES

Censors in Retreat | 20 Korea on the Rise | 22 Kingston Rudieska | 24

REGULARS

SPORT

Brute Force | 30 Five Questions with Darian Townes | 31

TRAVEL

International: A Slice of Old Japan | 32 Korea: Seonyu-do Serene | 34

COMMUNITY

The Art of Defense | 36 Expat Extracts | 37

FOOD

The Dish: Enchiladas | 38 First Donkas | 39

MUSIC

The Primary | 40 Basement: Angels Down Below? | 41

HAPS_autumn 2012

Photography by: Bryan Ku On the cover: Kingston Rudieska On this page: Kingston Rudieska

EDITOR’S LETTER I spent nearly all of my life in California and Florida, having never lived in a winter climate. My first morning in Korea’s sub-zero weather I jumped out of bed, into the shower, bundled up and headed for work. On the walk there, I started to run my fingers through my wet head of hair and then suddenly stopped. I was worried that, along with everything else around me, my follicles were frozen and might break. After punching in and recounting my predicament, my co-workers were kind enough to make the point that I was complete idiot. This has nothing to do with issue 21 of Haps, but it’s only fair that fair-weather idiots be given equal treatment in the company of all the talented people who helped make this issue possible. Thanks to all who chipped in with their words, photos, illustrations and assistance with the utility bill. It’s both mine and my hair’s honor to be in such good company.

2012 autumn_ busanhaps.com

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CONTRIBUTORS JAY WILLIAMS

Jay has been trekking around Korea for longer than he’d ever admit. He does admit to having a few guilty pleasures, including bargain hunting, Queer Eye reruns and blood sports.

JAMES TURNBULL

Since coming to Korea in 2000, James has become widely known for his highly respected blog The Grand Narrative. He lives in Busan with his wife and two daughters, Alice and Elizabeth.

CHRIS THARP

Chris hails from Washington State and has lived in Busan for over six years. When not when banging on a guitar or screaming into a microphone, he likes to write. If you buy him a drink he’ll tell you all about the times he met Kurt Cobain, but you probably already know the story.

BIANCA DAVIS

Bianca is a Texan who came to Busan in September 2011 on a whim because, as she says, “Well, why not?” She loves staying active, cooking and getting to know Busan more and more every day.

EUGENE SMITH

Haps’ music editor Eugene Smith was born in Costa Rica to Korean and British parents. Along with writing about the Busan music scene, he is the singer, songwriter and guitarist for the Busan rock band Millstone Grit.

SETH FELLENZ

Seth has moved from Wisconsin to Busan twice. When he’s not busy playing screen golf or grocery shopping, you can find him around town laughing at his own jokes.

JEN SOTHAM

Jen hails from New York and has been eating her way through Busan since 2006. The first Korean phrase she learned was chalmo-gu-soob-ni-da.

PUBLISHER Ju Shin-hye EDITOR IN CHIEF Bobby McGill MARKETING DIRECTOR Michael Schneider ART DIRECTOR Russell McConnell FASHION EDITOR Christy Swain FOOD EDITOR Jen Sotham WRITERS: Jen Sotham Michael Fraiman Chris Tharp James Turnbull Bobby McGill Jeff Liebsch Eugene Smith Bianca Davis Seth Fellenz Jamound Williams Brian Kilrain Vince Nance Emma Clarkson INTERN Shin Kyung-bin

DESIGNERS: Kelvin Brassbridge II PHOTOGRAPHERS: Bryan Ku Seth Fellenz Jen Sotham Ben Weller Luiz Henrique Siloto Jake Kanelos William Knott Sunny Kangn ILLUSTRATORS: Matt Ferguson Michael Roy ACCOUNTS SERVICES Marie Sung

SUBMISSIONS busanhaps@gmail.com

BUSINESS REGISTRATION NUMBER: 00001

ADVERTISING busanhaps@gmail.com

FIRST PUBLICATION DATE: Sept, 2, 2009 OFFICE ADDRESS: Ocean Tower #1726, 760-3, Woo 1 Dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan, Republic of Korea 612-822 www.busanhaps.com

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MANAGING EDITOR Jeff Liebsch COPY EDITOR Michael Fraiman WEBMASTER Danny Himes

THE

Events & Culture

DR. DRE IN CONCERT

NOVEMBER 2 People used to complain that no top talent came to Busan. Then came Maroon 5 and Jason Mraz, and many still complained. But now we’ve got Dr. Dre. The multi-Grammy-winning, multi-project, multiplatinum worldwide superstar is bringing it to Busan on November 2 and Ilsan, near Seoul, on the 3rd. At time of print, there is still no word on who Dre will have in tow, but expect a great show with solo Dre, or along with one or more of the several mega-stars in his LA stable. Take a shot at getting the sought-after tickets at ticket.interpark.com

BUSAN GLOBAL GATHERING

OCTOBER 20 Naru Park is the host venue for the seventh Global Gathering, wherein over 70 countries and groups from around the world display their culture and cuisine in one of the biggest expat gatherings in Busan. The organizers are expecting about 45,000 guests this year, which will feature the Global Culture Zone, Stage and Experience Zones. www.globalgathering.or.kr

PRÊT-À-PORTER BUSAN

OCTOBER 25-28 One of the biggest fashion events in Busan, the newest collections in domestic and international haute couture for spring/summer 2013 are on display for four days at BEXCO. The collections feature mens and womens runway shows which last just 10 to 15 minutes, though they can make or break a designer’s collection for that season. www.papbusan.org

BIG

FIVE G STAR GLOBAL GAMING EXHIBITION

NOVEMBER 8-11 South Korea’s biggest game trade show has grown into an important event for gamers internationally, as well as for companies publishing interactive video games for PCs, mobiles, consoles, arcades and others game-related products. Online, arcade, board game and console game zones, an event stage and a promotion zone highlight the four-day festival. www.gstar.or.kr

BUSAN CUP WOMEN’S INTERNATIONAL MATCH RACE

OCTOBER 23-28 The fifth installment of the race takes place at Dongbaek Island in Haeundae, bringing the best women sailors from around the globe to Suyoung Bay. The aggressive competition has its own set of rules, and is considered very exciting for participants and spectators alike. www.busanmatch.com

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WORD ON THE STREET

IS MARINE CITY THE NEW GANGNAM?

BUSAN BIENNALE SHOWCASING ART EDUCATION

Local shoppers can rejoice as the new premium supermarket SSG opened in Haeundae I-Park, the 72-story multi-purpose building in Marine City earlier this summer. SSG bills itself as the Korean version of a premium supermarket like Chelsea Market in New York or the Whole Foods franchise, which specializes in natural and organic products across the US. SSG carries products from British premium supermarket Waitrose and nutritional food line Fullbar, and boasts a premium wine store and entire section dedicated to functional salt products. Along with SSG, the increasingly posh Marine City district has seen a rise in upscale shops and restaurants of late, and is rivaling the uber-chic Gangnam in Seoul as a testbed for new businesses popping up around the country. According to recent research by Shinsegae, residents there spend 20 percent more than Seoulites on food per person. Is there a “Marine City Style” music video in the offing?

Hosted by Busan Metropolitan City and supported by the Korean Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism, the grand-scale art exhibition Busan Biennale is held every two years, and the eighth edition is set to take place around the city from September 22 through November 24. Over 330 artworks by 115 artists will be displayed around the city at 20 galleries, and organizers aim to focus on educating the public about contemporary art, to make the subject more accessible and enjoyable for everyone.

HALLOWEEN TIME

Halloween’s hitting soon, and what started out as a few dedicated participants 10 years ago has evolved into one of Busan’s most anticipated expat events of the year. The festivities fall on a Wednesday this year, and local bars will once again play host to costume parties around the city. Stay tuned to the event calendar on BusanHaps.com for the latest updates on where to go and what to do on the big night.

TWO YEARS OF SWAPPING BOOKS

The Busan book club will be celebrating its two-year anniversary at Beached Bar in Gwangalli on Sunday, November 4. Whether you’ve been going to the Book Swap since its beginning back in PNU, recently in the new spot at Beached or even if you’ve never been, check out their book-swapping birthday party starting at 4 p.m. Enjoy live music from the awesome Dammit Janets, tasty food and the best Bloody Mary in town. If you can’t make it out that day, you can hit the traditional non-celebratory Book Swap on the first Sunday of every month. Check out their Facebook group “Busan Book Swap” for details. 12 HAPS_autumn 2012

Community & Living

THE ROCKET MAN RETURNS

It’s been eight years, but Elton John is set to make a return to the peninsula with two concerts this fall, at the Olympic Gymnastics Arena in Seoul on November 27 and at BEXCO in Busan on the 29th. With a career spanning more than 40 years, Sir Elton has sold more than 250 million albums worldwide, racked up nine number one hits, including “Candle in the Wind”, his tribute to Princess of Wales Lady Diana which sold 33 million copies alone—the best selling song in history. The activist/singer/ songwriter is in his 40th year and fresh off his performance at the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee Concert at Buckingham Palace in June. Ticket prices range from 77,000 to 250,000 won. For more information, call 1544-1555.

FIELDS OF DREAMS

In one of the most famous movie scenes ever, a quote, "If you build it, he will come," spoken by “Shoeless” Joe Jackson in the movie Field of Dreams, made novice farmer Ray Kinsella tear up his cornfield and build a baseball diamond. The city of Busan hasn’t gone quite that far, but have come to an agreement with Gijang-gun and the Hyundai Motor Company to establish a “Baseball Field of Dreams” in Dongbaek-ri, Ilgwang-myeon, Gijang-gun. Seven baseball diamonds, including four that will be finished in the next two years, are to be built on 176,515 square meters of land. Currently, there are about 560 amateur baseball teams in Busan with around 1,500 players. 2012 autumn_ busanhaps.com 13

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IN THE NEWS

THE PRESIDENT’S LAST BANG

If you’re unfamiliar with the Dokdo Islets—a.k.a. the Liancourt Rocks to the West, or Takeshima to Japan—all you need to know is that it’s arguably the most contentious he-said-she-said issue between South Korea and Japan right now, with both sides claiming ownership over the rocks themselves (which only matter politically, not practically) and the 16,600 square nautical miles of surrounding waters that may contain 600 million tons of gas hydrate (which matters way more practically, less politically). The issue’s been argued over for decades, and only recently wilfully reignited by soon-to-be-former president Lee Myung-bak. The Wall Street Journal Korea RealTime blog sums it up best: “Cynics say it was a move by Mr. Lee to boost his popularity in the dogs days of his presidency. His single term ends in February and his approval ratings are at rock bottom, partly due to allegations of wrongdoings surrounding his close aides and his own brother.” A Gallup Korea poll then confirmed that 29 percent of 610 citizens said they liked him more, but over 50 percent haven’t changed their minds. Unfortunately for Mr. Lee, his legacy is sealed.

ONE MORE LEFT

SAMSUNG WANTS A BITE OF APPLE, PROBABLY WON’T GET ONE

Arguably the summer’s fiercest and heftiest international lawsuit has been between local tech giant Samsung and California-based Apple, wherein Apple won over US$1 billion dollars in a Californian court. Apple started the whole thing months ago by claiming that Samsung had, in several instances, copied-and-pasted Apple’s unique smartphone and tablet designs, including things like that pinch-and-zoom move you make with two fingers and the fact that the thing just frankly looks the same. Dozens of tech bloggers have weighed in, and the conclusion is twofold: Samsung will try, and likely fail, to appeal the case, since their countersuit of $422 million was shot down on all counts. But an implication more significant than the money alone (Samsung’s annual total equity is over $224 billion, which is, even if you don’t know what “equity” is, huge) is the inevitable redesign of smartphones from here on out, as Apple’s paved its own way to ensure no other technology resembles its own. Watch out, Google. 14 HAPS_autumn 2012

Ahn Cheol-soo, a Seoul-based software mogul-turned-university professor, confirmed that he’s running for president in this December’s election. The man leans so left that he’s an independent candidate, and is hugely popular with younger Koreans for his intellect and viciously anticonservative speeches. Ahn’s candidacy makes this winter’s race a three-way battle between the popular (among old folks) conservative Park Geun-hye, the equally popular (among young folks) Ahn Cheol-soo, and the less popular (among everyone) Moon Jaein, which is kind of sad, because Moon is the official opposition candidate and by all accounts a reputable politician. Many believe that he’ll withdraw from the race, smartly, so as to not split leftist voters. His philosophies bloomed among the Occupy crowd last year, and the criticism of both sounds similar (big talk, little action). Nevertheless, his popularity culminated in strong pressure to run for mayor of Seoul, which he ultimately didn’t. He chose instead to endorse the independent activist lawyer who wound up winning—largely, it is said, because of Ahn’s endorsement. All in all, this guy’s got weight.

Korea & World News

THE NEW FACE OF HOLLYWOOD, KOREA

Since its nationwide release on July 25, The Thieves has been making headlines across the country for earning the secondlargest opening weekend splash (just behind 2006’s The Host), and slowly climbing the ranks to be the country’s number-one domestic box office hit (aiming to topple, again, The Host). Its popularity is certainly due to its famous cast and exotic heist locations—set in Macau and Hong Kong, it’s basically a Korean Oceans Eleven. The film premiered in North America at the Toronto International Film Festival in September, but it is unlikely to grab the same Western fame as Korean cult classics The Host and Oldboy, which gained popularity because of their carefree and inventive approaches to high-stakes drama and gore.

THE MOON HAS SET

Reverend Moon Sun-myung, cited as one of the most internationally recognized South Koreans, passed away early September. The controversial founder of the Unification Church earned notoriety for claiming to be the Second Coming of the Messiah, sent by God to finish the work of Jesus, who visited him when he was a 16-year-old boy living near Pyongyang in the mid-1930s. He slowly built his religious empire throughout the decades, getting arrested while living in North Korea for being too religious, then being targeted under the South’s then-military government for being too persuasive. Yet he continued to do what he claimed was God’s work, garnering today’s three million followers (often referred to as a cult), and holding mass marriages wherein thousands show up and meet their spouses minutes before marrying them. There aren’t enough words in this news brief to summarize what a fascinating character he is, but we invite you to research him yourself, cause dude’s got a mindblowing story. 2012 autumn_ busanhaps.com 15

H Regulars

MATERIAL WORLD

ANTICIPATED TECH THE AIR IS STARTING TO CHILL, FATHER WINTER HAS GOT A COLD FINGER ON YOUR DOORBELL IT’S TIME TO SETTLE DOWN INSIDE AND WAIT FOR SPRING. HERE IS WHAT’S ON THE RADAR FOR COOL NEW TECH TO KEEP YOU OCCUPIED.

KINDLE FIRE 2 AMAZONS 8.9-INCH TABLET

The original Kindle Fire needs an upgrade for the simple reason that, as CNET put it, “it’s not that great.” Amazon has stepped up their game with the new Kindle Fire 8.9-inch HD tablet, and it’s nice to see Apple and Samsung get a little competition. It is especially welcomed by full-size e-book tablet enthusiasts who curse Apple for not allowing them to surf Amazon directly from the iPad. The Fire 2, with its bright light and no glare screen, makes for a great reading device, but still remains a few steps behind iPad’s usability, and at half the resolution, images and video are not going to pop like you want them too. Then again, at a starting price of US$199, there is a lot more of your monthly paycheck leftover to pop in your pocket.

IPAD MINI

Will the Cupertino, California-based court case capitalists come through with a smaller version of their iPad or not? Considering the growing popularity of the Kindle, most industry analysts say “yes”. Here’s hoping for a smaller price tag, too. Should it show this fall, expect it at US$299 for the 16GB version.

NINTENDO WII U

Nintendo’s anticipated offering has a new controller with an embedded touch screen that allows you to continue a gaming session even when your TV is off. The new Wii supports 1080p visuals and is backward-compatible with all previous accessories and games, which gives it an even bigger selling point for Wii enthusiasts.

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Gadgets & Gear

LOW TECH: A GOOD BOOK There’s nothing like popping in a classical music CD, turning up the heater and settling into a comfy chair with a nice book and a cup of Joe. The problem is where to get the books. While national brick-and-mortar chains are unpredictable with their instock selections, and you can find some gems at the Busan Book Swap or Fully Booked, there are a couple of options for ordering online with reasonable or sometimes pricey international shipping options.

WHAT THE BOOK?

It’s located in Seoul, and its delivery prices are hit-and-miss, but you can find just about anything. www.whatthebook.com

BOOK IN BOOKS

Another domestic online source. Shipping prices vary, but there’s a full selection online. www.bookinbooks.com

KYOBO BOOKSTORE (KOREAN)

Korea’s largest bookseller has nearly everything, but it’s probably the most expensive option. www.kyobobook.co.kr

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STYLE N’ BEAUTY

THE SEARCH FOR THE

PERFECT

SUIT BY JAMOUND WILLIAMS

kay, I know that many of us haven’t been in the market for a suit since our parents forced us into one for Sunday school when we were 10. Let’s face it: they aren’t as comfortable as cargo shorts and a t-shirt from that (insert band name) concert. But as much as some of us want to avoid it, every man should have at least one suit in his wardrobe. Here are a few suggestions to make the buying process short and painless. GETTING STARTED Bring a friend. We’d love to think that the salesperson is looking out for us, but let’s be honest: they are on their own team. A real friend will tell you that the Dr. Doolittle look may not be for you. Before you start your search, you need to consider a few things. Color is the first choice to make. While the Riddler may look great in lime green, you may want to avoid dramatic tones. Think of your complexion when considering a color; for example, if you are fair-skinned, you may want to avoid khaki or white. Grey, black or navy are great choices. These colors are versatile, enabling you to wear them to the office or out on the town. Now that you have your color chosen, it’s time to move onto fabric. Wool is the fabric of choice for suitmakers. You’ll find other cloths, such as linen or cashmere, which are better suited for warmer months. I usually like to stick with wool for simplicity. When checking the quality of a fabric, there is a simple test: grab a handful of fabric and squeeze it. When you let it go, does it bounce back with little or no wrinkling? If so, that is the fabric for you. 18 HAPS_autumn 2012

IF THE SUIT FITS It is widely known that there is nothing worse than a bad haircut, which seems to take forever to grow out. An ill-fitting suit, however, is a hair worse. When a suit does not fit correctly, it just never will. Getting your measurements taken is essential for getting the correct suit size as well as for alterations at the tailor. There are a few things to consider when trying on a suit: 1. The jacket should fit snug to your shoulders. Think the 80s and do the opposite. If the shoulder pads hit the wall before your arm, the jacket is way too big. 2. If the top button of a two- or one-button jacket is fastened, you should be able to slip your flat hand in easily. When you make a fist, it should pull at the button. 3. Speaking of buttons, one- or two-button suits are the way to go. You can get away with the classic three-button suit but they have been fading in popularity in recent years. The one-button suit is a tad more stylish than its two-buttoned cousin; however, they both look simultaneously modern and classic. 4. The length of the jacket is crucial. With your arms to the side, your knuckles should be even with the base of your jacket. The sleeves should fall around the wrist bone and allow about 1.3cm of shirt cuff to show. 5. The pants shouldn’t be neglected. Flat front pants are slimming and very fashionable these days. Single pleat pants are still in the picture, however anything more than one pleat says you got them out of a 90s time-capsule. The bottom of the

Style & Beauty

pants should have a one-inch break. Don’t forget that. Pants that are too long will definitely shrink you. PEAK PERFORMANCE A notch lapel is the standard for many business suits, making it a classic choice. If you’re a fan of Mad Men, then you’ve seen plenty of peak lapels strutting around the offices of Sterling Cooper Draper Pryce. Nothing says “style” more than the peak lapel. Consider jazzing your suit up with this little detail. LET’S VENT The center vent is classic and appropriate. You can’t go wrong with it. Side vents, like peak lapels, scream style. They add an element to the suit that can make you a stand out in any crowd. TRIM THE FAT Now that you have your suit, it’s time to head to the tailor. Keep in mind that the tailor is not a miracle worker. If the suit doesn’t fit properly, your tailor can’t redesign it. Just think: you’re trimming the tree, not cutting it. Finding the right suit isn’t a science project. Just follow these simple rules and you will step out in style with ease. Start with stores like Zara, Zio Zio and some of the department store brands. Fashion Street in PNU is a great option for suit sales. If your Korean is up to scratch, your options will open up considerably online. Happy hunting, fellas! If you need some more pointers, there are several online resources such as www.GQ.com, www.esquire.com and www.suitsociety.com. 2012 autumn_ busanhaps.com 19

HSocial

ISSUE

CENSORS

IN RETREAT BY

JAMES TURNBULL ILLUSTRATION BY MATT FERGUSON

WITH THE SOUTH KOREAN PUBLIC LOOKING MORE AND MORE TO EXPRESS THEIR MANY FACETS, THE CENSORSHIP ARM OF THE GOVERNMENT IS LEARNING TO DEAL WITH THE DEMAND.

BS decided that female performers could wear hot pants, but couldn’t expose their navels. KBS banned a music video because the singer didn’t wear a seat belt. And the Ministry of Gender Equality and Family has slapped R19 labels on dozens of songs just for mentioning alcohol, including Psy’s “Right Now” for the line “Life is toxic like alcohol”, which was deemed “obscene”. Preventing his song being played on TV and radio before 10 p.m., Psy wryly commented that the ban rather proved his point. It’s also just one of hundreds of similar decisions that have made K-pop censors a laughing stock. More ominously, this overzealousness is matched by increased policing of the Internet by the conservative Lee Myung-bak administration. It’s particularly accused of regularly abusing the vague National Security Law, which can be used to target any group deemed sympathetic to the North. Naturally, the government rejects such claims, but nevertheless Reporters Without Borders did list Korea as a country “under surveillance” in its March report titled Enemies of the Internet, placing it in the company of such paragons of free speech as Russia and Egypt. It’s quite a sobering narrative of the last few years. But there is an alternative: The Supreme Court ruled in favor of the import and distri20 HAPS_autumn 2012

bution of U.S. film “Shortbus,” ruling to annul the “restricted screening” rating imposed on the movie by the Korea Media Rating Board, on Thursday last week. Restricted screening virtually means a film cannot be screened in regular movie theaters. Thanks to the court’s ruling, “Shortbus” can be screened in cinemas. The controversial movie graphically portrays nonsimulated sex scenes, such as group sex and masturbation… (The Chosun Ilbo, January 23, 2009) It went on to predict that Korean films were likely to feature much more vivid depictions of sex after the ruling. And, sure enough, 2010’s The Servant and the remake of The Housemaid would be noteworthy for their salacious content. Indeed, the former has been described as containing perhaps the most erotic scene ever witnessed in a Korean film, which probably explains why Korean audiences watched it in droves. Facing stiff competition from Hollywood blockbusters, Korean filmmakers would repeat the strategy this year. First, with The Scent in April, which featured actress Park Si-yeon in the nude; then, with A Muse, which showed sex scenes between a teenage girl and a man in his 70s. Next, in June, there was The Taste of Money, with steamy sex scenes between veteran actress Yoon Yeo-jeong (65) and Kim Kang-woo (34); and finally the historical drama The Concubine, with Jo Yeo-jeong’s nude scenes evoking

ILLUSTRATION

those she did for The Servant. By the end of the month, it had become the 10th-most-watched film of 2012, beating out Prometheus and Men in Black 3 in the process. (And its rankings will surely go higher still when it’s screened again at BIFF.) Against the notion that Korea cinema might be liberalizing simply out of financial desperation, however, C.J Wheeler of Han Cinema argues that many of these risqué films “are not simply for mature audiences because of what is seen on screen, but because the story itself demands maturity as a prerequisite for true appreciation of these adult orientated pieces of cinema.” Yet despite the censors’ best efforts, one can’t help but also notice a similar rapid sexualization of K-pop in recent years as entertainment companies struggle to make their groups stand out. Nor that the financial difficulties of the Korean film industry, wracked by explosive growth in TV ownership in the 1970s, may have been a partial—and under-appreciated—motivating factor in President Chun Doo-hwan’s “Sex, Screen and Sport” policy of the 1980s, which was otherwise designed at distracting the Korean public from politics. On the other hand, liberalization is much more multi-faceted than simply more sex and nudity, and both Korean film and music have made genuine progress, particularly for women. The 1996 film The Adventures of Mrs. Park, for instance, was made into a comedy because the director so feared the public reac-

tion to a wife happily and successfully running away from her husband and remarrying; in contrast, the 2009 film My Wife Got Married, in which Son Ye-jin demands two husbands, nary raised an eyebrow. Or compare Caucasian men being used as the unlikely victims of girl-group S.E.S.’s wrath in their 2002 music video “U”, arguably because the Korean public wouldn’t have stood for Korean men in their place (there were many such de facto rules at the time), to 2NE1’s 2009 video for “I Don’t Care”, which features the members getting revenge on cheating Korean ex-boyfriends. And so on. So the next time you read glib one-liners about censorship or liberalization, please bear in mind that the reality defies easy narratives; not least because supposedly prudish Koreans often prove anything but. And, with the online name-verification law recently being ruled unconstitutional, despite being Lee Myung-bak’s most emblematic—and notorious—censorship policy, perhaps a new consensus is emerging that Korean audiences really can handle free speech. If so, who knows just what they’ll be watching after the elections? James Turnbull is a writer and public speaker on Korean feminism, sexuality, and pop culture. He can be found at the grandnarrative.com Illustrator website: inkonpaper.org.uk 2012 autumn_ busanhaps.com 21

HInside

STORY

KOREA’S

WILL TO POWER BY

BOBBY McGILL ILLUSTRATION BY MICHAEL ROY

WHEN DESCRIBING THEIR HISTORICAL GEOSTRATEGIC POSITION, KOREANS HAVE AN OLD SAYING: “A SHRIMP’S BACK BREAKS IN A FIGHT AMONG WHALES.” BUT IS KOREA STILL A SHRIMP?

ho doesn’t love a good proverb? A pleasant bit of pith that crystallizes even the most complex issue into a neat little package we can easily wrap our heads around. Every culture has them, and Korea is no different. Those of us reared in the West will quickly identify most Korean proverbs with those passed down along our own lineage. “When there are too many boatmen, the boat goes to the mountain” is basically “Too many cooks in the kitchen”; “Better in the grave than be a slave” sounds a lot like “Live free or die”; and “If you speak of the tiger, it will come” is essentially “Be careful what you wish for”. One of the more interesting Korean proverbs is the adage, “Goh-rae-ssah-oom-ae-sae-oo deung-teo-jin-dah,” or, “A shrimp’s back breaks in a fight among whales.” That is to say that, over the millennia, Koreans have been locked in an ongoing struggle with their larger and more powerful neighbors, Japan and China; struggles in the form of attacks and occupation, as a partner in unequal treaties or as staging ground for battles between the two. Though scholars point out that Koreans have suffered no more than most, it’s fair to say, if you’ll pardon the patchwork of proverbs, that Koreans have long had to swallow the bitter pill of coming up on the short end of the stick when dealing with aggressive straws that break the shrimp’s backs. From Jurchen and Khitan nomads attacking from the north to Japanese pirates on the coasts to the devastating 16th-century to 17th-century invasion by Japan’s General Hideyoshi that for seven years cut a swath from Busan to Seoul, the soils of Korea have absorbed their share of blood and destruction. (Interestingly, were it not for the havoc wrought on Hideyoshi’s navy by the brilliant naval strategies of Admiral Yi Sun-shin, it might very well be Apple suing Sony rather than Samsung.) Just under 30 years later, in 1627 and 1636, successive blitzkrieg-style invasions fielded by China’s Manchu rulers reestablished the Sino-Korean tribute system that had existed between them in differing forms and kingdoms since the 5th century. This arrangement was finally broken by the Japanese in 1895 following their victory in the first Sino-Japanese war. It was not a war of liberation. but rather the initial step in the total annexation of Korea in 1910 by the Japanese. Five years of nominal independence following the Japanese defeat in 1945, was followed by the Korean War, a ruinous proxy conflict between the American, Soviet and Chinese whales that, at war’s end, left a divided and devastated peninsula, with a fully 22 HAPS_autumn 2012

independent Republic of Korea at its southern end. From the ‘60s through the ‘90s, there was little in the way of threats from their Chinese neighbors who, along with Korea itself, were busy trying to reassemble themselves. And to the east there stood a Japanese democracy reigned in by a pacifist constitution and a public weary of anything other than economic empire. Fast-forward to the turn of our present century: old contentions with Japan once again flare up with territorial disputes over the tiny group of islets known internationally as Liancourt Rocks, as Dokdo in Korea and Takeshima in Japan. Even the water surrounding the Korean-administered islets is disputed, with Koreans calling it the East Sea, while most maps label it the Sea of Japan. In 2005, in response to continued badgering by right-wing Japanese activists laying claims on Dokdo/Takeshima (with Tokyo’s tacit approval), then-president Roh Mu-hyun gave a speech benchmarking a new, terse diplomatic tone with Korea’s neighbors to the east. “Peace cannot be secured with words. It can only be maintained when backed up by power that is sufficient to punish the forces breaking the peace,” Roh said, adding, “We have sufficient power to defend ourselves.” To underline this bold stance, Seoul sent four air force fighters to intercept a Japanese plane, which Korean radar picked up flying towards the disputed isles. Roh’s firm response marked a renunciation of Seoul’s standard of “quiet diplomacy” regarding dealings with Japan. While the outside world might catch the occasional headline about the Dokdo/Takeshima dispute and think to themselves, Geez, it’s just a bunch of rocks, these “rocks” are not only home to resource-rich waters, but also a fair share of historical baggage. As Kookmin University professor Hyun Dae-song told a group of reporters in Tokyo last August, “Any claim by Japan toward the Dokdo Islands is seen like an invasion and reminds Koreans of Japanese colonial rule.” Following the emboldened tenure of President Roh, was the even more aggressive presidency of current Blue House resident Lee Myung-bak. While adhering to a more stringent path than the left-leaning Roh in dealing with North Korea, Lee has remained in lockstep with his predecessor’s defiant stand against Tokyo. Over the summer, Lee became the first Korean president to visit the disputed islands—inflaming relations with his Japanese counterparts. Further raising tensions, Lee insisted that

Japan’s revered Emperor Akihito must sincerely apologize for mark military pact dubbed the General Security of Military his country’s colonial occupation before he would be allowed Information Agreement. The stated intent of the deal was to to visit Seoul again. increase the sharing of classified military data regarding both In the carefully worded art of diplomacy, Lee let it rip: “If he of their major common concerns: North Korea’s nuclear threat wants to visit Korea, he should visit the deceased indepen- and China’s increasing military might. dence fighters here and sincerely apologize to them,” Lee said. The move was applauded by military analysts worldwide “If he would come here with [vague] words of regret, there is no as an obvious fit. Then came a call from the attendent at hisneed for him to come.” He went on to stress that “victimisers torical baggage claim: the South Korean public erupted in can forget the past. Victims cannot.” protest that the unpopular Lee administration would have Beyond the defiant war of words with its former colonial the gall to make such a deal with Japan, a country that popular master, Seoul has backed it up with an increasing show of polls rank an even greater threat than their neighbors to strength, departing rapidly from six decades of maintaining the north who, within an eight-month span in 2010, sunk a the status quo encouraged by their American ally and necessi- naval vessel, while killing 46 on board, and shelled a civiliantated by a lack of military might. Dubbed the “Defense Reform inhabited island. Plan 2020”, the government initiative calls for an increase in The opposition party, who all along knew that the informamilitary spending by 11.1 tion sharing pact was being percent annually through brokered, quickly seized on “PEACE CANNOT BE SECURED 2015, and just over seven public sentiment. Rather than WITH WORDS. IT CAN ONLY BE percent through 2020, toeducating the populace of the talling roughly US$556 bilprudence in signing the pact, MAINTAINED WHEN BACKED UP BY lion. they instead rallied against POWER THAT IS SUFFICIENT TO Following the North Kothe partnership between rean sinking of the CheonPUNISH THE FORCES BREAKING THE Tokyo and Seoul. It is, after all, an and artillery attack on a presidential election year on South Korea’s Yeonpyeong PEACE. WE HAVE SUFFICIENT POWER the peninsula. Island, the Lee administraWhile there is well-earned TO DEFEND OURSELVES.” tion introduced Defense Blue House braggadocio tied Reform 307, a spending package more narrowly aimed at me- to the newly minted position of strength, whichever party takes dium- to long-term defense requirements to counter North Ko- the helm next February would be wise to work with others rea. against common enemies. Some suggest that if neither Tokyo While Seoul’s roughly $30 billion in current annual military ex- or Seoul can walk back the nationalist pot they’ve stirred, then penditures seems small in light of Japan’s $60 billion or China’s sealing the militarily essential pact in secrecy might be just reported $143 billion, it does represent nearly three percent of the right remedy. South Korean GDP, compared to one percent for Japan and two “What we don’t want for sure is for this agreement to go up percent for China. and be shot down and become a cause célèbre for nationalisIt’s one thing to present yourself as a regional power and tic politics inside South Korea and Japan,” said Patrick Cronin, yet another for your neighbors to recognize you as one. As senior director of the Asia-Pacific Security Program, in a June China and Japan face off over their own territorial claims in interview with World Politics Review. “I would encourage these increasingly blunt diplomatic fashion, historical sensibilities governments to do the same things they would do under the would lead one to conclude that Korea could, once again, pact secretly until they can get the public support they need, get caught up in the middle. But for contemporary Korea, which may not come until after the election.” well-armed and newly confident, this is not the case. And while Until then, Cronin adds, “we are living dangerously.” China will likely never fear, much less respect South Korean So for now, we watch and wait for what comes next. All the military might, Japan has recently started to acknowledge it as while remaining cognizant that both the now powerful shrimp worthy of alliance. and the long eminent whale could possibly be scooped up in In a historic first last June, Tokyo and Seoul announced a land- China’s ever-widening net. 2012 autumn_ busanhaps.com 23

HCover STORY

KINGS

OF SKA BY BRIAN

KILRAIN PHOTOGRAPHY BY BRYAN KU

SKA IS ON THE PENINSULA WITH A GROWING KOREAN FANBASE BOBBING AND SWAYING TO THE JAMAICAN SOUND. KINGSTON RUDIESKA HAS BEEN AT THE FOREFRONT OF THE PUSH FOR ALMOST A DECADE. 24 24 HAPS_autumn HAPS_autumn2012 2012

25 2012autumn_ autumn_ busanhaps.com busanhaps.com 25 2012

HCover STORY

h Jeong-seok will never forget Namiseom Island last summer. He, along with the eight other members of the Seoul-based ska band Kingston Rudieska, were set to open the Rainbow Festival, a significant gig for a band of a relatively obscure genre on the peninsula. The weather was miserable. Rain was pouring down, and nobody in the band wanted to step onstage. They eventually did, dragging themselves before the crowd to do their thing. As soon as they did, they stood amazed at the shockingly wild fans dancing at their feet. “After our set, every member got a huge energy rush from the crowd and we forgot about how we were miserable and we had a perfect show,” Oh recalled. “That was a really special moment. Some of the fans jumped onstage and we all danced together. I’ll never forget it.” This is Kingston Rudieska in a nutshell: they are clamoring against the odds, and they come out on top. Their story is the story of ska in South Korea. It is an increasingly popular genre overwhelmed in a sea of K-pop, but their obvious love for their music fuels them to keep pushing ahead. Part of their drive seems almost noble; according to Oh, “Korean style is very competitive, so there is very little time to relax or have fun.” Oh feels their music brings much-needed relief to a hyper-competitive and stressed out society—the roots-based sounds of good times and a positive jive that resonates with an overworked people. So too has Kingston Rudieska, which began back in 2003. It started when Oh, a trumpeter, met Choi Chul-wook, now the 26 HAPS_autumn 2012

group’s trombonist. They were in different bands at the time, gigging around the Hongdae music scene in Seoul. “When we first met, Chul-wook didn’t even play trombone,” Oh recalled. “But we wanted to make a roots-ska band, so he bought one and he learned.” The pair quickly assembled the rest of the group from an array of local musicians and played their first concert six months later. The whole time, Oh continued to be entranced by ska’s roots and Jamaican culture—evidenced by his long flowing dreadlocks. Several more of Kingston Rudieska’s members, too, had been listening to ska for over 10 years. “In 1990, I began to listen ska-punk music,” Oh said. “And then I became interested in listening to more of that kind of music. I started to look into the roots.” That’s when Oh discovered ska pioneers the Skatalites. Although the Skatalites didn’t invent the genre, from the time they started gigging, in 1963, they transformed Jamaica’s popular music into an artform by incorporating elements of jazz and blues. For the Kingston Rudieska members, many of whom have backgrounds in jazz, discovering the Skatalites was like finding a roadmap to the ska sound. “When you listen to our music, from our debut album to our most recent released this year, our effort to learn about ska, [while] still presenting our own identity, is quite evident,” Oh said. Even beyond Kingston Rudieska, traces of ska linger across Korea’s arts scene. This summer, for example, saw the Korean release of a feature-length Bob Marley documentary; much of the Jason Mraz-esque pop-rock one hears in coffee shops is grounded in that unmistakable guitar ‘chk’ of ska and reggae;

and even Korea’s underground punk scene seems to unwittingThe band’s latest feat was their most recent summer tour ly pay homage to Jamaican music by often covering the Clash, with Busan locals Ska Wakers and Jeju Island’s South CarniOperation Ivy or Rancid—all influenced by reggae and ska. val. In Busan, they played to an ecstatic crowd at Vinyl UnderYet despite this ubiquitousness, pure roots-ska music remains ground near Kyungsung University. At one point, more than relatively unknown to the 20 musicians were jamSouth Korean masses. ming onstage, performing TIME HAS JUST FLOWN BY AND Kingston Rudieska wants choreographed dancing to change that. Today, and soaring solos from evOUR FANS KEEP GROWING. they’re a fixture in Koinstrument imaginWE NEVER TAUGHT THEM ANYTHING, ery rea’s major summer music able. By the end, the crowd BUT THEY CAN DANCE WITH US AND was frantically chanting, festivals, with countless television appearances Encore!” FOLLOW US AND KNOW OUR SONGS. “Encore! under their belt. They’ve “We have a thousand reaperformed alongside local WHEN THAT HAPPENS, I AM SO PROUD sons to love Busan,” Oh greats such as Cool Wise explained. “First of all, we TO BE MAKING THIS MUSIC. Men, Yoon Do-hyun, Shim love the beach. People in Soo-bong and T-bone. Their live shows are pure energy, usu- Busan are so fun-loving and have great energy.” In addition ally with members of the band jumping off stage to join in the to Ska Wakers, Oh also noted local band One Drop East as one revelry with the crowd. of their favorite local acts. Their most recent album—3rd Kind, released this past sum“Plus,” he said, “all the band members agree: Busan has the mer—is their most polished and confident album yet. They most charming and beautiful women.” even experiment, quite successfully, with some non-ska genres It would be nice to see Kingston Rudieska paving a new wave such as reggae, dub and soca. of Korean ska, the likes of which has been seen in Japan, LonMost of the tracks stay true to their Skatalites-influenced don, Southern California and New York. But it is doubtful the style, with gems including a scorching ska version of Theloni- boys are in it for the fame: “Time has just flown by and our fans us Monk’s “Well, You Needn’t” and a striking original, “Ni Mari keep growing. We never taught them anything, but they can Hwana”. (The latter is not, in fact, a reference to that sacred Ras- dance with us and follow us and know our songs. When that tafarian plant but, according to Choi, means, “Your words make happens, I am so proud to be making this music.” me angry”—but with that Jamaican beat behind the lyrics, it’s If you want to see the band for yourself, get more info on their hard to know what to believe.) Facebook page, www.facebook.com/rudieska2004 2012 autumn_ busanhaps.com 27

HSports

TALK

BRUTE FORCE BY BIANCA DAVIS PHOTOGRAPHY BY LUIZ HENRIQUE SILOTO

TAEKWONDO HAS A STORIED HISTORY, BUT A LOCAL PRO HAS BEEN GIVING KOREA’S NATIONAL SPORT AN INTERNATIONAL TWIST FOR THE PAST THREE YEARS.

xpats in Busan are getting a lesson in Korean culture unlike many others. Led by Argentinian native Santiago Pinto, these waegookin are learning to kick, punch and defend themselves in the way of ITF taekwondo. Pinto, who has been practicing the sport for 17 years and instructing in Busan for three, teaches the Korean martial art three times a week. In Korea, to think of taekwondo conjures up images of children running around, releasing their day’s pent-up energy. However, Pinto’s classes are only offered to adults, and are taught entirely in English. It has been said that there are as many histories of taekwondo as there are people to tell them. Disputes of style and leadership has caused various discrepancies. The sport’s origins date back to taekkyeon, a martial art that began in the Shilla empire. The suppression of Korean identity during the Japanese occupation from 1910 to 1945 meant that Koreans were only permitted to Japanese martial arts. A man who would later be promoted to general of the Korean army, Choi Hong-hi, blended the styles of taekkyeon and shotokan karate to form taekwondo, and began teaching it to soldiers. Taekwondo, literally “the way of the hand and foot”, was first officially named and established in 1955. Discord would ultimately mean a split into the two branches of taekwondo that exist today. The International Taekwondo Federation (ITF) was established in 1966, and the World Taekwondo Federation (unfortunately abbreviated to WTF) was established in 1973. ITF taekwondo maintained the original style begun by General Choi Hong-hi, while WTF taekwondo has evolved into the sport seen in the Olympics. Since its origins as hand-to-hand combat training for the Korean army, the practice has evolved to encompass students from all over the world seeking knowledge in the areas of discipline, strength and self-defense. The skill is still used as training for the North Korean army. Pinto’s class teaches physical training, strength conditioning, flexibility, sparring and self-defense. The training is intense, but he personalizes the class on an individual basis, making sure everyone gets a good sweat, but isn’t so worn out they won’t come back again. “I try to push everyone’s limits and I am very happy when I see the personal growth of each person in the class,” he said. “I have had people who couldn’t do a single push up at first and now are very strong and can do things they didn’t 28 HAPS_autumn 2012

think they would be able to before.” Bill Sheridan, an English teacher in Busan, has been coming to Pinto’s classes for two years. He said that he initially was looking for a way to lose weight after an unhealthy summer, and thought learning a martial art would be a fun way to do it. “I find it a much more fun way to exercise than just going to the gym,” he said. “It’s a really varied workout, and I’ve seen improvement in a lot areas since I began.” Over the years, the class has changed to fit people’s needs. Pinto said that when he first started, people were more focused on general fitness, but lately there has been a steady group of people who focus on belt progression and sparring. Pinto said martial arts have changed his life physically, mentally and spiritually in profound ways. “Among other things,” he explained, “martial artists who follow the physical path and the philosophical side of martial arts, the latter being the most important, develop a higher sense of self-worth, greater physical and mental strength, higher self-confidence, a more peaceful mind and a sense of belonging to something.” Classes are Monday, Wednesday and Friday mornings near Kyungsung University at Sure Jazz dance studio, and in the evenings at Stallion Gym in Suan-dong in Dongnae. The Suan site is a fully equipped martial arts and crossfit gym that also has classes in shinkyokushin karate and daido juku. The gym is run by Asian shinkyokushin champion and Korea’s shinkyokushin president, Master Kim Il-nam. For more information, contact Santiago Pinto at pintosantiago@yahoo.com

WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE?

In ITF, one spars only in gloves and foot guards, whereas WTF students wear full body armor and headgear, and punches are not allowed to the face. The patterns in ITF, called teul, are meant to teach the history of Korea through their names and diagrams; WTF patterns lack that, and are called poomsae. There are no musical dance patterns in ITF, and breaking techniques are mostly based on power and strength, while WTF uses a lot of acrobatic breaking. ITF also trains boxing and kicking equally, whereas WTF primarily focuses on kicking. Additionally, some of the terminology is different, ITF using older Korean terminology.

KT SONIC BOOM SCHEDULE FIVE QUESTIONS WITH

DARIAN TOWNES POSITION: CENTER TEAM: KT SONIC BOOM NUMBER: 8 HEIGHT: 208CM WEIGHT: 113KG HOMETOWN: ALEXANDRIA, VIRGINIA COLLEGE: ARKANSAS

SATURDAY, OCTOBER 13 VS. GOYANG ORIONS THURSDAY, OCTOBER 18 VS. ANYANG KGC FRIDAY, OCTOBER 26 VS. SK KNIGHTS SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 3 VS. LG SAKERS TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 6 VS. WONJU PROMY SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 11 VS. INCHEON ET LAND SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 17 VS. GOYANG ORIONS WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 21 VS. ANYANG KGC

WITH FAN-FAVORITE CHARLES RHODES NOW GONE TO TURKEY, THE BIGGEST QUESTION FANS ARE ASKING IS: WHO IS DARIAN TOWNES? I would like the fans to understand that I am a very passionate person and player. I take basketball very seriously. SOME FOREIGN PLAYERS HAVE CLASHED WITH COACH JEON IN THE PAST, AS HE’S KNOWN TO DEMAND A LOT OF HIS PLAYERS TO PRACTICE. WHAT DO YOU THINK OF HIS COACHING STYLE COMPARED TO OTHER COACHES YOU’VE HAD IN THE PAST? Having a coach that pushes you is not a bad thing for me. He makes you work to become a better player. I respect Coach and that alone makes me want to keep striving for our goals. Coach Jeon actually reminds me of a Serbian coach I had in Poland; having a passionate coach encourages players to step it up, and that will help everyone in the end. HOW’S YOUR ADJUSTMENT BEEN TO KOREA SO FAR? I’m still getting adjusted, of course, but definitely the first week here was the toughest for me. Leaving my five-month-old son behind was extremely hard, but he will be here soon. Since then, I am getting more comfortable and making this my new home. WHAT CHANCES DO YOU THINK KT HAVE THIS YEAR TO WIN A KBL TITLE? I think we have a great chance at winning a KBL title. We have a great coach, great players; but with that being said, there is going to be competition. We are putting in hard work and our goal is to win it all. WHO WOULD YOU CONSIDER THE TOP FIVE BASKETBALL PLAYERS ON THE PLANET ARE RIGHT NOW? My top five would be: Michael Jordan, Kobe Bryant, Lebron James, Kevin Durant and Carmelo Anthony. 2012 autumn_ busanhaps.com 29

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2012 autumn_ busanhaps.com 31

HTravel

INTERNATIONAL

32 32 HAPS_autumn HAPS_autumn 2012 2012

A SLICE OF OLDJAPAN STORY AND PHOTOS BY JEN SOTHAM

WHEN ONE THINKS OF JAPAN, IT’S MOST OFTEN THE BRIGHT LIGHTS AND THE GLITZ OF A NON-STOP SCENE. STEP OUT OF THE NEW AND INTO THE OLD IN MATSUYAMA.

word that is often associated with living in an expatriate community is “transient”, and for a long time I believed that word to have a slightly negative connotation. In the six years since I moved to Busan, I’ve accumulated about 800 Facebook friends, more than two-thirds of whom have since moved home or onward. Though it is sad that I will likely never see many of these people again, there are a fistful with whom I have not only secured lifelong friendships, but also established a solid travel network. One such person is Matthew Iannarone. Matt moved to Busan just a few months after I did, and we fell into the same ‘family’. It was with Matt that I took my first jaunt to Southeast Asia, where, on the deck of a Ha Long Bay junk boat, he shared with me his dream of someday opening a bed and breakfast. After a two-year stint of teaching at Pukyong National University, Matt decided to fulfill another dream—to hike the 88-temple pilgrimage (四国八十八カ所参り) in Shikoku, Japan. On that trip, he met Noriko Manabe, a hostel manager in Osaka, who shared his dream of opening a guest house. After an 18-month long-distance courtship, Matt moved to Japan in August 2010. Today, Matt and Nori are married and the proud owners of Sen Guesthouse in Matsuyama. Sen Guesthouse is located within minutes of Dogo Onsen, the oldest hot spring resort in Japan; Matsuyama Castle, one of three remaining hilltop castles in Japan (and arguably the most beautiful); and Ishite Temple, number 51 on the pilgrim-

age. It’s a fantastic home base from which to experience a slice of ‘old’ Japan. Options for day trips are endless. In warmer months, Kashima Island is a perfect place for a beach picnic, a swim in crisp, clear water and encounters with wild miniature deer that inhabit the tiny island. The highlight, for me, was a trip to Uchiko, a rural village in which the city center (Yokaichi Old Town) looks as it did 100 years ago, complete with a fullscale kabuki theater. The Kosho-ji temple houses a massive sleeping Buddha and affords a beautiful vista overlooking the village and surrounding mountains. Getting to Matsuyama from Busan involves a relatively quick and cheap flight to Fukuoka, a bus or train to Kokura and then an overnight ferry to Matsuyama (that’s about 100,000 won round-trip if booked online). Alternately, you can bike the Shimanami Kaido from Onomichi to Imabari. This is the longest series of suspension bridges in the world, which links Honshu (the main island province) with Shikoku. It takes about one full day and only costs 500 yen to rent a bike. My five-day visit with Matt and Nori was one of the best trips I’ve taken in Asia. I’ve been to Japan three times before, and this was the first time I got a real sense of what makes our neighbors to the east tick. It helped that Sen Guesthouse is gorgeous, comfortable and incredibly affordable (2700-4500 yen, per person, per night). Both avid travelers themselves and veterans of the 88-temple pilgrimage, Matt and Nori are eager to share their vast knowledge of Shikoku with those who have made the effort to get off the beaten path.

2012 autumn_ busanhaps.com 33

HTravel KOREA

SEONYU-DO SERENE STORY & PHOTOGRAPHY BY SETH FELLENZ

SERENE BEACHES AND A LITTLE SOLITUDE MAKES SEONYU-DO THE PERFECT WEEKEND GETAWAY.

ometimes we all need a little time away. The balliballi life that many of us, foreign or Korean, live in Busan can drive one crazy. The islands hugging the Korean coastline have been a refuge for anyone looking to escape the city, relax and find a little (comparative) peace and quiet. While most of us have been to Geoje or Jeju, there are dozens of smaller, less popular islands within reach of Busan. Among the best of the bunch is Seonyu-do. Seonyu-do sits off the west coast of the peninsula, 90 minutes from Gunsan by boat. The main island of Seonyu-do is compact, but offers a lot. Heading up the road from the ferry terminal, visitors pass a modest collection of shops and restaurants, along with a handful of minbaks that make up Jinri, the “downtown” of Seonyu-do. This is where the majority of food and drinks are found, along with bicycle and scooter rentals. It is also where you will see the only cars on the island. Seonyu-do’s tour groups ride in golf carts, and bicycles are the quickest way to get around. At 10,000 won a day, a bike is a must for exploring the area. Continuing down the soft sands of Seonyu-do beach toward Mangjubong Hill, there is a grassy area along the road where camping is allowed. With a misty chain of small islets 34 HAPS_autumn 2012

in the distance, the sunset views from the beach are some of the best in Korea. The beach itself is much nicer than any in Busan, with soft sand, clean water and far fewer people. Clamming is popular at low tide. Mangjubong is a short but steep hike with beautiful panoramic views. The other three islands (Yami-do, Sinsi-do, and Munyeo-do) have a few scattered minbaks and shops, and are even quieter than Seonyu-do. Accessible only by pedestrian bridge, they’re a great place to cruise around on bikes, enjoy a picnic lunch and get away from the more crowded area, especially during busy summer months. Attractions include fishing, some newer minbaks, a salt farm and a “mud flat experience”. There are a couple of things visitors should be aware of before setting out for Seonyu-do. Seafood is plentiful (the jogae-gui is fantastic), but other food items are not. Be sure to bring some food from the mainland, or cup ramyeon could be your best option. In addition, very few shops and restaurants accept cards and there is no ATM on the island. Budget accordingly. The combination of Seonyu-do’s natural beauty, seafood and the ability to really “get away from it all” make it an ideal getaway spot. The beach is relaxing, sidewalks are for walking, and the shopkeepers friendly. Don’t miss the sunset.

Travel Korea

ASK A LOCAL

NAME: Eo Na-young OCCUPATION: President, Dandy Corporation RESIDENCE: Yongho-dong WHAT IS A PLACE PEOPLE SHOULD VISIT IN BUSAN THAT THEY MIGHT NOT KNOW ABOUT? Around Kyungsung University. Honestly, many young people already know this place, but I guess older people never try to visit here. It makes a new impression about Busan for visitors. WHAT BUSAN-SPECIFIC FOOD SHOULD VISITORS TRY? This is very difficult question for me, but I just want to recommend clams (조개구이) in Jagalmadang, Taejongdae (태종대 자 갈마당). You can eat fresh seafood surrounded by nature. IF PEOPLE WANT TO FIND A QUIET PLACE TO GET AWAY, WHERE WOULD YOU RECOMMEND THEY GO IN BUSAN? Hwangryong Mountain (황령산). This is the best place to see all of Busan area, especially at night. In addition, it is very quiet and peaceful. WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE PLACE TO TRAVEL IN KOREA OUTSIDE OF BUSAN? Guinsa (구인사) in Danyang, Chungcheongbuk Province (단양, 충청북도). It is a huge and beautiful temple in Korea and feels so similar to Zhanjiajie in China. NAME: Kim Seok-jin OCCUPATION: Barista, Starbucks RESIDENCE: Haeundae WHAT IS A PLACE PEOPLE SHOULD VISIT IN BUSAN THAT THEY MIGHT NOT KNOW ABOUT? I would like to recommend Yonggung Temple (용궁사), which is a beautiful temple near Haeundae. You can see the sea walking a path through a bamboo forest. Even though you don't believe in Buddhism, you might wanna go there because it is so peaceful when you walk while listening to the sound of waves. WHAT BUSAN-SPECIFIC FOOD SHOULD VISITORS TRY? If you visit Busan, you should try milmyeon above all. Milmyeon originally came from naengmyeon, which are Korean traditional cold noodles. At the time of the Korean War, refugees from the North Korea started making milmyeon from wheat because it was cheaper than buckwheat, which is its original ingredient. Since that time, it has become a Busan-specific food. Milmyeon noodles are softer than naengmyeon’s, so it's a digestible food and popular with many people regardless of age and gender. And even though Milmyeon is actually the best summer food, it’s fantastic in all seasons. The most popular restaurants are Gaya Milmyeon and Gaegeum Milmyeon. If you want to know how to go those two places, just ask anyone around you. They will probably know—they’re that famous. IF PEOPLE WANT TO FIND A QUIET PLACE TO GET AWAY, WHERE WOULD YOU RECOMMEND THEY GO IN BUSAN? I think any beach is the best place to get peace of mind. As a lot of people know, Haeundae and Gwangalli are the most famous beaches in Busan. There are various kinds of entertainment, but it is hard to relax with full of people. So Imrang is the beach that I love the most. Imgrang Beach is located in Gijang, where you can see a clear country view and feel the clean air and sea. In my case, whenever I need to get away from my busy life and feel relaxed, I go there alone. If you have a car, you can enjoy driving along the seaside, and also you can go there by a train that connects to Haeundae. You need to get off at Wolnae Station and walk a little, though. 2012 autumn_ busanhaps.com 35

Cultural Corner

I FINALLY REACHED THE POINT WHERE THAT PROTECTIVE FEELING BECAME A POISON TO ME— TOO MANY UGLY STORIES WERE BEING TOLD, WHILE I WASN’T THERE AND I COULDN’T HELP, SO WHAT GOOD WAS IT WISHING OVER AND OVER THAT I HAD BEEN? INSTEAD, THE QUESTION EVOLVED INTO, “WHAT CAN I DO TO HELP?”

THE ART OF DEFENSE BY VINCE NANCE

MMA FIGHTER AND JIU-JITSU INSTRUCTOR VINCE NANCE HAS BEEN DONATING HIS TIME TEACHING WOMEN SELF DEFENSE SKILLS. LET’S FACE IT: SOMETIMES YOU GOTTA KICK SOME BUTT.

s a jiu-jitsu instructor, my favorite moment of every class is seeing my students’ faces light up as they realize their true power and control. A little leverage and technique can give anyone this power, regardless of size or strength. I still remember what one of my students, Tegan McDonough, said to me before she moved back to America: that my class completely changed her life. It was the best and only payment I would ever ask for. Whenever we hear stories about women facing violence, sexual or otherwise, our very human reaction almost always resembles, “I wish I had been there to help.” This is a wonderfully compassionate sentiment, but, as a man with a daughter and four younger sisters, I finally reached the point where that protective feeling became a poison to me—too many ugly stories were being told, while I wasn’t there and I couldn’t help, so what good was it wishing over and over that I had been? Instead, the question evolved into, “What can I do to help?” The answer was simple—I’d been training and fighting since I was just a kid. I could teach women to do what I regretted being unable to do myself. For nearly six months, women in Busan have been gathering at a jiu-jitsu and MMA gym near Kyungsung University, where 36 HAPS_autumn 2012

they’ve learned how to elbow, block, kick, throw, take down, escape from and even viciously injure anyone who attacks or puts them in a situation where they feel they have no alternative but to fight. The curriculum consists of some techniques that we use in actual MMA and cage fighting, Brazilian jiu-jitsu, military pressure point training and some universal techniques designed and taught specifically for women’s self defense. In the half-year I’ve been teaching, I’ve witnessed each class grow larger than the last. Some women return time after time, while others come only once or twice; a few have even started training in jiu-jitsu or kickboxing on a daily basis at various gyms around the city. The donation requested per class is 10,000 won, of which half goes to the gym for three hours of privacy on a Sunday afternoon, and the other half is donated to the Sae Gil Women’s Shelter. I don’t do this to make money, because I can think of few ways to better invest a few hours of my Sunday once a month. I hope that anyone who wants to meet some inspiring and powerful women, all while having fun learning something truly valuable, will come join us.

For more info you can contact Vincent Nance at vincent.nance@ gmail.com

Ask an Expat

EXPAT EXTRACTS NAME: OJ Castaneda AGE: 26 HOMETOWN: Dallas, Texas OCCUPATION: US Marine HOW LONG HAVE YOU LIVED IN KOREA? I’ve lived in Busan for two-and-a-half years. WHAT BROUGHT YOU TO KOREA? One of my close friends received unexpected orders to come out to Korea. He had a family and didn’t like the idea of being away from them for two years, so I told him I would come to Korea for him. WHAT ARE SOME OF THE BIGGEST CULTURE DIFFERENCES BETWEEN YOUR COUNTRY AND KOREA? I think one of the biggest cultural differences between the United States and South Korea is the very apparent status system. People are judged by what brand of purse is hanging from their arm, what badge is on the hood of their car or what logo is on their take-out coffee cup. MUST-SEE FOR NEW ARRIVALS: I like to be outdoors a lot and some of the best places for that are the Haedong Yonggung Temple, Taejongdae Island, and Geumjeong Fortress. If you steer more towards relaxing inside, definitely take a trip to Shinsegae Spa Land in Centum City. BEST PLACE TO GO EAT OR DRINK? For some of the best makkeolli and dubu kimchi in Busan, check out Dragon Dream Cave Bar. It is a little off the beaten path, but well worth the effort. The restaurant is actually carved into the side of a mountain! There aren’t many places to grab a good beer in Busan, but some of the best are Beer Factory in Gwangalli and Hurshimchung in Oncheonjang. There are also a few places in the Kyungsung area like HQ Bar and Eva’s that have started carrying craft beer on tap. HOW MUCH LONGER DO YOU SEE YOURSELF STAYING IN KOREA? I wish I could stay in Korea longer, but I will be heading back to California in May of 2013. I have really enjoyed my time in Busan, and I would love to be able to visit again in the future. NAME: Bryan Smalling AGE: 31 HOMETOWN: Long Beach, California OCCUPATION: University Instructor HOW LONG HAVE YOU LIVED IN KOREA? Eight years. WHAT BROUGHT YOU TO KOREA? I wanted to come to Asia, and needed to make money. WHAT DO YOU LIKE MOST ABOUT LIVING IN KOREA? The "easiness" of living in Korea. Subways, trains, buses, taxis and the fact that the bars stay open past 2 a.m.! MUST-SEE FOR NEW ARRIVALS: Jagalchi market in Busan and the craziness of Itaewon and Hongdae in Seoul. BESIDES FRIENDS AND FAMILY, WHAT DO YOU MISS MOST ABOUT YOUR HOME COUNTRY? I miss Mexican food, especially tamales! HOW MUCH LONGER DO YOU SEE YOURSELF STAYING IN KOREA? I am moving back to the States this winter. 2012 autumn_ busanhaps.com 37

Home Cooking

THE DISH: BY JEN SOTHAM

ENCHILADAS

JEN HAPPENED UPON SOME CORN TORTILLAS AND DID WHAT ANY SANE PERSON WOULD DO WITH THEM: MAKE ENCHILADAS! HERE’S HOW. Last week, I was in my favorite little supermarket (Food &) in Daeyeon-dong, and I did a double take when I looked down into one of the freestanding freezers and saw a huge package of corn tortillas. Now, I’ve never seen corn tortillas there before, and they haven’t had them since, and there wasn’t even a price tag on the package I bought (which they wound up charging me 11,000 won for). However, next time you take a trip up to Seoul, you can find them in the Asian Mart in Itaewon and hopefully they will soon return to Food &. If you should luck upon this hard to find gem, here’s a recipe for my favorite Mexican dish.

CHICKEN AND SPINACH ENCHILADAS

INGREDIENTS: Serves 5 • Three 15oz. cans of Hunt’s tomato sauce • One 7oz. can of La Costena chipotle peppers (Shinsegae International Food Mart) • Three tbsp. cumin • Two medium chicken breasts • One small red onion, finely diced • Large bunch of spinach, cleaned and chopped • 15 corn tortillas • 2 cups shredded Monterey Jack cheese • Shredded lettuce (for topping) • Sour cream or plain Denmark yogurt (for topping) • Two ripe avocados, mashed (for topping) Grill or sauté the chicken breast, let it cool and then shred with a fork. In a blender or food processor, blend together the tomato sauce and the chipotles. Sauté the diced red onion in olive oil until lightly browned. Add the tomato-chipotle purée, cumin and about 1 tsp. each of salt and black pepper. Let it simmer on low heat, stirring until it slightly bubbles. Cover the bottom of a baking tray with a thin layer of enchilada sauce. Fully cover each tortilla with the sauce (until it’s pliable), fill with shredded chicken, spinach and cheese, and then roll it so that the tortilla stays closed. When the tray is full, cover the entire tray with a thin layer of sauce and shredded cheese. Bake on 150C for 12-15 minutes, or until the top layer of cheese is very slightly browned. Use a large, flat spatula to transfer to plates, top with shredded lettuce and a whopping spoonful each of sour cream and mashed avocado. ¡Buen provecho!

38 HAPS_autumn 2012

Dining & Food

FIRST DONKAS BY JEN SOTHAM

DONKAS RESTAURANTS ARE A DIME A DOZEN IN THE BU. TON KATSU HANA, A CHAIN MOST RECENTLY ADDED TO CENTUM CITY’S POSH FOODSCAPE, TAKES THE PORK CUTLET TO A WHOLE NEW LEVEL.

uring my first few months in Korea, my hagwon boss took our staff out for lunch. We went to a little Japanese donkas place in Namcheon-dong, and I pointed to the picture on the menu of the dish that looked like the largest portion—I was hungry. I savored every bite of the pork cutlet, which was served in an iron skillet in a thin layer of kimchi, mushroom and onion stew, and smothered with melted mozzarella cheese. Though I’ve eaten my fair share of donkas since, I have always raved about this particular dish—it was like a Korean-ized version of a Japanese dish that was a take on an Italian Parmesan plate. When, a few months back, a friend and I were wandering around Centum City in search of donkas, I went on a little rant about my kimchi-donkas-parmesan and how I’ve yet to have anything that compares. We turned a corner and noticed what appeared to be a donkas restaurant on the second floor of the SH Valley building, on the same block as the new Cinema Center. We settled into a table at Ton Katsu Hana (하나돈까스) and opened our menus. And there it was: my dish. Out came my jazz hands as I bounced in my seat, shouting “This is it! This is the thing I was talking about!” Turns out, the dish is called Kimchi Cheese Pork Cutlet Stew (김치치즈돈까스나베). It’s no coincidence that this place happened to have the exact same dish I remembered so fondly—it is, in fact, a franchise of the restaurant I went to in Namcheon years ago. Kim Gabju opened the first two Ton Katsu Hana restaurants (Namcheon and Oncheonjang) in 1999, and its popularity spurred a string of franchises. Today, there are 10 sites around Busan, the most recent being the Centum branch, opened in November of 2010. Not only was the dish as good as (if not better than) I remembered it, but the ginger wasabi salad dressing had the perfect palate-cleansing kick and the scalliony broth in the udon had a rich, non-fishy flavor. The next time I ate at Ton Katsu Hana, I tried the shrimp cutlet stew (새우나베), a similar dish made with deep-fried jumbo shrimp rather than pork. Also worth a mention is the clean, lovely atmosphere, attentive service and killer prices (all meals are under 10,000 won). Between shopping at Shinsegae and attending BIFF films, I’ve In the Centum City subway, take the escalator at exit 4, walk spent quite a lot of time in Centum City, and I’ve always been straight and turn right at the second corner. The SH Valley building hard pressed to find a go-to restaurant in the area. Now I’ve got is on the left side, second floor. Ton Katsu Hana is open seven days a week, from 11:30 a.m. until 10 p.m. Call them at 051-747-8244. my number one.

THE CROCK-POT Fall and winter are the perfect seasons to cook up a nice stew or a delicious tender pot roast, and nothing does that better than a good crockpot slow cooking your favorite concoctions to perfection. Invite the neighbors over for pot roast or stew, or make them stew with envy at the wonderful smells creeping out from beneath your door. You can get them at most major retailers, or order online from sites such as Gmarket.com. 2012 autumn_ busanhaps.com 39

Music Scene

THE PRIMARY BY EUGENE SMITH PHOTOGRAPHY BY

WILLIAM KNOTT AND SUNNY KANG

CHEONGJU-BASED FOLK BAND THE PRIMARY BRING SOME SERIOUS SOUND. IT DOESN’T HURT THAT THEIR CD WAS PRODUCED BY GRAMMY-NOMINATED SOUND ENGINEER TOM WALTZ OR THAT THEY RECENTLY OPENED A GIG FOR PSY.

ith the release of their debut album Beneath the Tide, Cheongju-based folk-rock band The Primary brings a solid new sound to the peninsula’s expat music scene. With members from Ireland, Scotland, Canada and the United States, they hope to build upon their strong foreign fan-base by increasing Koreans’ interest in folk music while touring the country. Belfast native and singer-songwriter Jon Lennon (yes, that is his real name; no, he has yet to compare the band’s popularity to Jesus) founded the group in early 2011 with other Englishteaching expats. He first ran into Tony Boyd, a Glaswegian rocker responsible for all the licks and riffs that make the anthems of The Primary memorable from the first song of their set list. Then joined Bob Massicotte, a multi-instrumentalist who also plays in a local jazz combo, and drummer Matteo Cinnani, who is arguably more responsible for female fans than songs, with his classic Casanova image and ability to speak more than 12 languages. Topping it off is Camila, whose cello brings to the group its female touch and iconic sound. The Primary’s first release, Beneath the Tide, is a well-crafted four-track EP mixed by Brad Smalling. The band produced it in a solar-powered studio in Evergroove, Colorado before a final polish by veteran engineer Tom Waltz, who knows Boyd from a previous project. Waltz has an impressive resume with over 20 years of experience in the music industry, and has produced Grammy-and Juno-nominated albums. It all adds up to a very listenable sound, either in a bar or your home sound system. Lennon, who pens many of their lyrics, describes his words as 40 HAPS_autumn 2012

being “about people who move on and people who stay in the same place. There will always be faces you remember no matter where you go.” He does not hold complete dominance over songwriting duties, though; other members will often change words to better fit a given melody. Lennon argues that “this makes the songs sound like a band, rather than a singer-songwriter with four other guys.” The Primary is not just limited to five members. They often feature guest musicians contributing on banjos, mandolins and harmonicas to widen their musical range. As the band grows increasingly popular among expats, they have full confidence that they can conquer the Korean crowd as well. “This is a country that has invited bands such as Oasis, Beady Eye, Bob Dylan and Slash, who have sold out arenas,” Lennon said. “Koreans enjoy that kind of music. So once they hear the album, we hope to establish a firmer connection with them.” You can get more info on upcoming gigs on their Facebook page, facebook.com/ThePrimaryKorea

Nightlife & Music

BASEMENT: ANGELS DOWN BELOW? BY EUGENE SMITH IT’S MORE THAN A BAR—IT’S AN INSTITUTION. AND THEN THERE’S THE STRIPPER POLE. MUSIC EDITOR EUGENE SMITH SITS FOR A SMOKY-ROOM TALK WITH THE BASEMENT’S LIAM CULLIVAN. It’s 7:48 p.m. My eyes stray from my phone and gaze across the room. It’s quiet and peaceful, unusual for a PNU bar, but it is early. There is only one other person in the room; his stare is focused, yet vacant, and accompanied by little movement other than the odd drag of a Marlboro cigarette. The smoke drifts up in shapes that mercifully shift my attention from the pitiful excuse for music that is 80s pop. Suddenly, the sound of bells signal the entrance of the bar owner, Liam Cullivan, who walks in through the door. He shakes my hand and apologizes for being late. He sits me down as I open up my computer to start the interview. I start things off with a simple question to break the ice: “How did ‘Basement’ become the name of the venue?” The Basement, it turns out, was Cullivan’s first experience taking over a pre-existing bar (it was already called Basement), as he had owned bars previously in Thailand and another just west of Busan in Masan. “Koreans used to always ask me where the bar was and what floor it was on,” Cullivan recalls after taking over ownership of Basement. “That always gave me a chuckle.” He says the Basement used to be an “artsy-fartsy bar” where local expats and PNU artists could present their work. “The first year had a lot of growing pains for me. Old regular customers wanted it to stay the way it was, and I had to cater for the younger university audience.” Despite the resistance to change, Cullivan did not hesitate to shift the center of attention towards music, investing all profits into a new sound system. Cullivan’s experience in the music industry is extensive, and this helped transform the Basement into a local music incubator. He’s played roadie to multiple bands, including the Ramones, Meat Loaf, Robert Palmer, Tiffany, the Wailers and Henry Grey. The real catalyst for the Basement’s success would be the introduction of the open mic on Tuesdays, suggested by his first manager, Sun Shu. This led to the debut performance of several iconic Busan bands such as Hajimama, London Scat Party, Defector Frequency, Soonshu and the Innocents, Cosmic Comics and ELI, and served as Busan’s introduction to acts from Seoul, Daegu and Daejeon’s popular Levine. “Open Mics are incredibly important for developing talent,” Cullivan says. “Mike and Dongha [originators of Ol’ 55’s popular open mic] are great supporters of live music. I’ve always felt that, despite our open mic being the least mature, it is where the most fun is held.” The Basement never has a shortage of mad stories, like the time Portland-based band Yat was nearly crushed onstage. “It was absolute mayhem. I remember pushing small girls

NEW TUNES: SECRET - POISON After a year’s absence from the Korean music scene, Secret have made quite the comeback with this mini-album. And with the title track harking back to the gutsy, confident Madonna of 2010, too, perhaps it’s high time for this reviewer to forgive them for the cutesy aegyo of 2011’s Shy Boy. Certainly, it’s very similar: backed by bigband instruments, it has a remarkable five-note saxophone hook, emulating— but much improving upon—4Minute’s own in “Volume Up”. It also shares Madonna’s structure, and the minor flaw of lacking a real climax. This is a real irony, given how yahae the

off the stage with deep regret because I thought the band was going to suffocate.” After my questions are answered, I pause. One question looms before I shut my laptop for the night: What’s the story behind the stripper pole directly in front of the stage? Cullivan replies, simply, “People need an excuse to dance. Customers would be climbing up that even during performances. It was the best investment I ever made.” To get there: Head towards the main PNU gate, make the secondto-last right before the gate on the one-way street. Basement is on the right about a block down. Photo courtesy of Basement.

BY JAMES TURNBULL

video is. Otherwise visually stunning, all the upward crotch shots detract from the loose 1940s gangster narrative, let alone all the times the group members seem to have their hands between their legs. In contrast, “Telepathy”, “Calling U” and “Falling in Love” are surprisingly mellow. And whereas the former two are unremarkable, the last is simply sublime, evoking—yes, really—the atmosphere of a 1940s lounge bar. Combined with “123”, much more forceful and compelling than “Poison” (albeit with too much rap), fans would do well to look beyond the album’s signature music video. 2012 autumn_ busanhaps.com 41

Hotel Directory & News

HOTEL GUIDE AND NEWS

LOOKING FOR A PLACE TO STAY WHEN VISITING BUSAN? FIND IT WITH THE HAPS HOTEL DIRECTORY, YOUR LOCAL ENGLISH GUIDE TO ACCOMODATION IN THE CITY. HAEUNDAE

THE WESTIN CHOSUN tel: 82-51-749-7000 web: www.starwoodhotels.com Do it right and crash in the same room George W. Bush did PARADISE HOTEL tel: 82-51-742 2121 web: www.paradisehotel.co.kr On the water, with a casino, excellent spa and a pool. SEACLOUD HOTEL tel: 82-51-933-1000 web: www.seacloudhotel.com Luxury stay with great restaurants. Short walk to the beach. CENTUM HOTEL tel: 82-51-720-9000 web: www.centumhotel.co.kr Near Shinsegae and BEXCO. Good subway access. SUNSET HOTEL tel: 82-51-730-9900 web: www.sunsethotel.co.kr Seventy-two rooms with, according to the site, “individual design concepts” NOVOTEL AMBASSADOR tel: 82-51-743-1234 web: www.novotelbusan.com On the beach. Great ocean view, Murpii Nightclub. GRAND HOTEL tel: 82-51-740-0610 web: www.grandhotel.co.kr One of the cheaper spots on the strip, but still at the beach. HOTEL ILLUA tel: 82-51-744-1331 web: www.hotelillua.com Lovely hotel with stunning views from its perch on Dalmaji Hill. HANWHA RESORT tel: 82-1588-2299 web: www.hanwharesort.co.kr Beautiful views of Oryukdo, the bridge and close to the beach. BUSINESS AND BEACH HOTEL tel: 82-51-742-3219 web: www.bnbhotel.co.kr Located in central Haeundae, with easy access to the local historical sites.

SEOMYEON LOTTE HOTEL tel: 82-51-810-1000 web: www.lottehotelbusan.com Lotte runs a tight ship and it shows in the generous customer service here. 42 HAPS_autumn 2012

TOYOKO INN tel: 82-51-442-1045 web: www.toyoko-inn.com Across from Migliore, comfortable, clean and affordable. CROWN HOTEL tel: 82-51-635-1241 web: www.fnetravel.com/english/pusanhotels/crown.html Mid-range hotel decorated in Korean style, good for travellers.

GWANGALLI HOMERS HOTEL tel: 82-51-750-8000 web: www.homershotel.com Right on Gwangalli Beach amidst the myriad of cafes, bars and restaurants. AQUA PALACE tel: 82-51-756-0202 web: www.aquapalace.co.kr Beautiful view of the Diamond Bridge, right in the middle of the beach.

JUNG-GU COMMODORE HOTEL tel: 82-51-461-9703 web: www.commodore.co.kr Beautifully designed traditional hotel. Close proximity to Busan Station. BUSAN TOURIST HOTEL tel: 82-51-241-4301 web: www.pusanhotel.co.kr Conveniently located next to the train station. Good for a cheap night’s rest. TOYOKO INN tel: 82-51-442-1045 web: www.toyoko-inn.com Affordably priced hotel, clean and 10 minutes away from the train station. PHOENIX HOTEL tel: 82-51-245-8061 web: www.hotelphoenix.net Highly trained staff, close to Nampodong. Popular with Japanese tourists. ELYSEE HOTEL tel: 82-51-241-4008 web: www.elyseemotel.com Affordable hotel with good amenities. Close to Nampo-dong.

BUSAN STATION GUKJE HOTEL tel: 82-51-642-1330 web: www.hotelkukje.com About 3 km away from the train station, close to Citizen’s Hall. TOYOKO INN tel: 82-51-442-1045 web: www.toyoko-inn.com

The second location, this one is a minute away from the train station.

OTHER AREAS PARAGON HOTEL [Sasang-gu] tel: 82-51-328-2001 web: www.hotelparagon.com Business comfort, with close proximity to Gimhae International Airport. BUSAN CENTRAL HOTEL [Yeonsan-dong] tel: 82-51- 866-6225 web: www.centralhotel.co.kr Adjacent to Yeonsan rotary, located 10 minutes away from City Hall. HOTEL NONG SHIM [Oncheonjeong] tel: 82-51-550-2100 web: www.hotelnongshim.com Great area around the hotel. Head north to PNU for original Busan nightlife.

BUDGET BUSAN YOUTH HOSTEL ARPINA [Haeundae] tel: 82-51-731-9800 web: www.arpina.co.kr Opened in 2004, a cheap place to stay for the night. Culture center inside. GOODSTAY THE PLANET GUESTHOUSE [Haeundae] tel: 010-2780-6350 web: www.earthlinghome.com Women-only dormitory across from Haeundae Beach in the Crystal Beach Office Tel. INDY HOUSE [Kyungsung Uni] tel: 82-70-8615-6442 Super cheap, dorm-style room right in the heart of Kyungsung. MARUB GUEST HOUSE [Haeundae] tel: 010-6322-3194 web: www.marubee.com Well-placed near restaurants, commercial area in Haeundae. POBI GUEST HOUSE [Haeundae] tel: 051-746-7990 web: www.guesthousekoreabusan.com Renovated guest houses three minutes from Haeundae Beach. SUM GUEST HOUSE tel: 070-8837-0700 web: www.sumhostel.com Renovated in 2011, they guarantee guests a pleasant stay whether in Busan for business or pleasure. HELLO GUEST HOUSE [Haeundae] tel: 051-746-8590 web: www.facebook.com/helloguesthousehello Friendly, clean and cozy atmosphere. Outdoor patio for your enjoyment.

HI KOREA HOSTEL tel: 070-4409-3132 web: www.hikoreahostel.com email: hikoreahostel@gmail.com Your home away from home, Hi Korea Hostel offers you an affordable and comfortable accommodation just a stone’s throw away from Haeundae Beach. After a busy day sightseeing or at the beach, kick back and relax, and make yourself comfortable with our free WiFi, breakfast and top-notch multilingual service.

Accomodation Guide

PARADISE HOTEL

1408-5, Jung Dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan ph. 82-51-742-2121 web. www.paradisehotel.co.kr

The Paradise Hotel in Haeundae has an All About Busan package running through the end of November. Discounts on the Ocean Spa Cimer, cool jazz by local expat musicians and a wine night on Friday and Saturday evenings help ease in the fall.

HOTEL NONGSHIM

23, Geumganggongwon-ro 20 beon-gil, Dongnae-gu, Busan ph. 051-550-2100 web. www.hotelnongshim.com

An Italian boutique shop opened on the first floor in September, offering over 40 quality brands including Chanel, Cartier, Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Prada, Christian Dior, Fendi, Balenciaga and Givenchy, all at reasonable prices.

NOVOTEL AMBASSADOR 1405-16 Jung-dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan ph. 051-746-8481 web. www.novotelbusan.com

Enjoy the Autumn Scenery Package at the Novotel, as the picturesque views from the rooms and nearby Dalmaji Hill are a must-see during the fall months. A plethora of discounts on hotel facilities are available, while package rates begin at 180,000 won per night.

LOTTE HOTEL

772 Gayadae-ro, Jin-gu, Busan ph. 051-810-1000 web. www.lottehotelbusan.com

The chefs at Chinese restaurant Toh Lim on the 43rd floor are preparing natural pine mushroom dishes through the end of October. Dinner sets range from 98,000 to 148,000 won, but the meals are something you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t want to miss during the fall season.

SEACLOUD HOTEL 287 Haeundaehaebyun-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan ph. 051.933.1000 web. www.seacloudhotel.com

The Hawaiian-style restaurant Kona Komo is offering a 15-percent discount on its main dishes until the end of this year. The family-friendly restaurant provides customers with fresh ingredients daily and affordable prices for their breakfast, lunch and dinner buffets.

WESTIN CHOSUN

67, Dongbaek-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan tel:.051-749-7000 web. www.westinchosun.co.kr

Treat your taste buds to the vibrant flavors of Asian cuisine at the hotel restaurant Camelia during the Asian Cuisine Festival. Thai, Filipino, Vietnam, Chinese and Japanese food are featured to tempt your palate until October 31. 2012 autumn_ busanhaps.com 43

Nightlife & Dining Directory

GWANGALLI BEACH BIKINI [Lounge/Beer Bar] Spacious club with dancing and such. BEACHED CAFE AND SPORTS BAR [Kiwi Sports Bar] open: 6pm - late tel: 051-924-9662 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ beached-cafe-sports-bar Recently renovated, this Kiwi-run sports bar has gained a huge expat following in the first year of existence for its spectacular bridge view, delicious menu and its wide array of Kiwi beer, the only place in the city to boast such a claim. Rugby is the sport of choice on the TV for the punters. BELLA CITTA [Italian] tel: 051-711-0010 web: www.busanhaps.com/food/bellacitta-italian Italian restaurant with an incredible interior, top notch menu and indoor garden seating. BURGER AND PASTA [International] open: 11am - 12am tel: 051-751-6631 web: www.busanhaps.com/food/burgerand-pasta-gwangan The second of the Burger and Pasta shops around the city, this international eatery offers a great view of the bridge while you enjoy your day on the sand. Burgers, pasta and brunch are on the menu in the stylishly decorated restaurant in the middle of the main drag of Gwangalli Beach. FOUR SEASONS [Raw Fish Korean] English speaking owner, 2nd fl. Fish Market. FUZZY NAVEL- MILLAK [Food/Bar] open: 11am - 6am tel: 051-754-6349 web: www.fncompany.co.kr It has fabulous views of Gwangalli Beach. Facing the Diamond Bridge, come enjoy a drink and some tacos on our patio. Great staff serve fresh made Mexican cuisine and will mix up your favorite cocktail. FUZZY NAVEL- GWANGALLI [Bar] open: 7pm - 6am web: www.fncompany.co.kr Located on the ground floor, offering a great view of the beach and bridge. Friendly staff serve excellent cocktails at the vintage-looking bar. Make sure you take advantage of the outside seating in the summertime. GINZA [Japanese] tel: 051-751-7077 Pricey, but good quality food. GUESS WHO RESTAURANT [International] tel: 051-757-1213 Always busy with a nice patio deck. 44 HAPS_autumn 2012

PARIS CAFE [International] Half coffee shop, half bar. Food is good too. PASTA E VINO [Italian] tel: 051-746-2500 Intimate beachside spot with good Italian cuisine. SAIGON PHO [Vietnamese] tel: 051-755-4205 Has been serving up Phở, the Vietnamese noodle soup since 1997. One of the few non-chain Vietnamese spots in town. Look for the big yellow sign, across the street from the Starbucks. SHARKY’S [American Sports Bar] open: 6pm weekdays, 2pm weekends tel: 010-4038-2907 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ sharkys-bar Sharky’s brought “California cool” to Gwangalli this summer, as the newest Sharky’s opened to great reviews and a killer view of the bridge. Indulge in their ever-expanding menu while enjoying a cocktail in a cool, comfortable environment. Great deals on dinner specials nightly, and they have the best shuffleboard table in town. SHIM HAE RAW FISH MARKET [Korean] tel: 051-753-6868 Everything seafood, all in one place THURSDAY PARTY [Korean/Expat Bar] open: 6pm - late web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ thursday-party A summer staple on Gwanganlli Beach for the past couple of summers, Thursday Party has two locations situated next to each other on the east side of the beach. Both bars are similar to the Thursday Party city-wide theme, and offer a variety of American style pub grub to tempt your palate. WA BAR [Beer Bar] Wide selection of beer laid out for your choosing.

HAEUNDAE AN GA [Korean] tel: 051-742-7852 Very popular bbq meat restaurant in Haeundae. BILLIE JEAN [Lounge/Live Music] tel: 051-742-0297 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ billiejean A Haps favorite. Great decor. Ladies drink for free Thursday nights. BURGER AND PASTA [International] open: 11am - 2am web: www.busanhaps.com/food/burgerand-pasta-haeundae Recently opened, this Western/ Korean fusion style restaurant has been packing them in since day one. Burgers, pasta and brunch are on the

menu in the stylishly decorated restaurant, where you can also imbibe yourself to a glass of wine, a cocktail or beer after your day on the beach. CHEOLMA HANWOO BULGOGI [Korean] tel: 051-709-4000 Bulgogi done at its best. CINE DE CHEF [Italian] tel: 051-745-2880 In Shinsegae, enjoy a good meal and a movie. CLUB ELUNE [Nightclub] Busan’s super club. A must see at least once. EL OLIVE [Italian] tel: 051-752-7300 Delicious Italian, close to Costco. FUZZY NAVEL [Food/Bar] open: 11am - 6am tel: 051-746-6439 web: www.fncompany.co.kr Great location set on two floors near the beach, other bars, and clubs. Amazing Mexican food is served from lunchtime until the early hours of the morning. Friendly staff and outside seating makes Fuzzy Navel a place to hit when the weather is good. GANGA [Indian] Expect to pay some good money, but it’s worth it. GECKOS [Pub] Beach front bar. Consistently good food. GEN SUSHI [Japanese] tel: 051-740-6630 Affordable sushi. Good stuff. HELLO THAI [Thai] tel: 051-731-5033 Good Thai food in the heart of Haeundae. HQ JANGSAN [American Sports Bar] Great bar to get your drink on with some wings. LOVING HUT [Vegetarian] tel: 051-747-2979 web: www.lovinghut.co.kr All organic, all good. Veggie paradise. MAKTUM [Nightclub] If Elune is packed, head to Maktum. MARIS [Buffet] tel: 051-704-8870 Great seafood buffet. Across from Primus in Jangsan. MIAMI 88 [Lounge Bar] On the beach. Patio and good service. MURPII [Nightclub] In the Novotel. Dancing, drinking, business class. NAMASTE [Indian] tel: 051-746-1946 Indian fine dining. Good prices and great food. PHO KIM [Vietnamese] tel: 051-740-4868

Good food at a good price. Great soup, located in SFUNZ. ROCK N’ ROLL HOUSE [Casual Lounge] Great atmosphere. Two pool tables, great view. SHARKY’S [American Sports Bar] open: 6pm weekdays, 2pm weekends tel: 010-4038-2907 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ sharkys-bar This San Diego-inspired bar has become a fixture of the Haeundae Beach crowd renowned for its spectacular food and service. International comfort food is masterfully prepared by their chefs in a comfortable and unpretentious atmosphere. Located just a stone’s throw away from the beach on the second floor of the Pale de CZ. STARFACE [International Pub] tel: 051-742-0600 open: 6pm - late web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ starface SUNTORY [Japanese] Food and drink in a classy setting. Bonzai! TAP AND TAPAS [Spanish] open: 3pm-5am tel: 051-746-6318 web: www.tapntapas.com Recently opened, Tap and Tapas serves up high quality, well-presented Spanish cuisine in a striking new setting in Haeundae. With an extensive menu of upscale cocktails and a tap room, it’s a great place to meet for an informal meeting, or out for a night on the town to impress. T.G.I. FRIDAY’S [Chain] tel: 051-740-6531 Good reliable chain in the Harbor Town Building. THE WOLFHOUND PUB [Irish Pub] open: 6pm - 2am weekdays, 11am - 2am weekends tel: 051-746-7940 web: www.wolfhoundpub.com No city in the world would be complete without an Irish pub, and the Wolf is Busan’s homage to Dublin. Wooden table seating with subtle lighting make this pub a relaxed place to grab a drink, watch some rugby and grab some sumptuous international cuisine. The “No Bullshit Pour” policy is a good indicator for the strength of their drinks. THURSDAY PARTY [Korean/Expat Bar] tel: 051-744-6621 open: 6pm - late web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ thursday-party A staple of the Busan landscape, Thursday Party Haeundae offers a casual, yet comfortable option after a day at the beach. With a patio for

Dining & Food outdoor sitting, this open-aired spacious pub brings the usual quality service the locals and expats have come to expect from the Thursday Party empire. U2 BAR [Lounge] Great place to chill, awesome service, a Haeundae institution.t VAN GOGH TERRACE [Italian] tel: 051-741-3767 Nice view of the water while you eat.

CLUB FABRIC [Rock/Event] Live music, warm cozy decor. DUGOUT [Sports Bar] Home of Lotte Giants games. EVAS [International/Lounge] Been around awhile, and still packs them in.

KYUNGSUNG ALMOST FAMOUS [Dance/Techno] Funky atmosphere, great staff, live music. AUSSIE BURGER [International] Burgers, fries and Aussie pies. AYUTA [Indian] Friendly staff, good food. BEIJING GO-CHI [Chinese] Great skewers, great food, cheap prices. BLUE MONKEY [Dance/Hip Hop] open: 7pm to late tel. 051-611-2888 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ blue-monkey With its illuminative and decorative style, Blue Monkey has impressive DJ sets on the weekend, and doubles as more of a lounge-style chill vibe during the weekdays. With an impressive menu and a booming sound system, ladies can also drink half price from 7 - 9 p.m. BON BON [Italian] tel: 051-621-0906 Great little spot next to Kyungsung U. BURGER AND PASTA [International] open: 11am - 11pm tel: 051-625-6651 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ burger-pasta With three locations around Busan, Burger and Pasta offer solid menu, and reasonable prices that make them a hit with young Koreans and expats. Set in the traditional Thursday Party wooden decor, they offer pasta, burgers and a brunch with a small patio to enjoy the street catwalk on sunny days. CAFE RADIO [Cafe] Great atmosphere. Relax with a book. CALIFORNIA BURRITO [Mexican] open: Mon-Thu 11am-10pm, Fri-Sat 11am-10pm, Sun 12pm-9pm tel: 051-612-2828 The newest addition to the Mexican food landscape, the large, spacious homestyle restaurant is easily the largest in the city offering Mexican staples, including their signature burrito. The relaxed atmosphere, extensive food and drinks menu, and reasonable prices have made it a must stop on a visit to Kyungsung

FULLY BOOKED [Cafe/Bar] open: Tues-Thurs 7 - 12am, Fri 7 - 1am Sat 2 - 2am, Sun 2 - 12am tel. 070-8170-9628 web: www.busanhaps.com/fullybooked We are Busan’s first boutique bar run by expats. We serve great beer and wine at reasonable prices. We also serve 3 kinds of fresh panini: Caprese, Chicken Pesto, and AppleSausage. Furthermore, we provide a non-smoking environment for you to peruse our used-books or enjoy one of our many board games. GRAZIOSO [Italian] Dirt cheap Italian located in the Spark Building. HQ BAR [American/Sports Bar] tel. 010-2857-2367 Where the real mean go to drink and BS. KINO EYE [Dance Club] Dark atmosphere. Live music on occasion. LONG. T BAR [Lounge Bar] Large bar with cheap Long Island’s. Pool table and darts. MONK’S JAZZ CLUB [Jazz Club] Busan’s only jazz club. Tuesday nights are hot. NI HAO CHINESE [Chinese] Good Chinese at affordable prices. O’TACO [Mexican] tel: 051-627-8358 Good Mexican food and lunch specials. OL’ 55 [Live Music/Event] open: 7pm - late tel: 051-627-5645 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ ol’55 Ol’55 is located in the heart of Kyungsung University and is noted for its Open Mic Wednesdays, which are known to host the best Korean and expat musicians in town. The atmosphere is cool, there is free pool and a pay dart machine, and Sunday nights host an expat trivia.

PAINTED CHAIR CAFE [Cafe/Gallery] The art, the atmosphere. Good place to chill. SHABANA [Indian] tel: 051-621-4821 Good, affordable Indian food. THE SUSHI [Japanese] tel: 051-611-4043 Affordable, quality Japanese food. THURSDAY PARTY [Korean/Expat Bar] open: 6pm - late web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ thursday-party2 With ten Thursday Party’s around the city, it has become a staple for the young, hip Korean university crowd and expats alike. Beer pong, sports on TV and the free curry popcorn or salted spaghetti sticks are always in play, as is a busy crowd almost every evening of the week. VINYL UNDERGROUND [Nightclub/Event Bar] open: Weekends 8pm - late www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/vinyl Vinyl Underground is known as the spot for live music in the Kyungsung area. With over ten years of showcasing live music and DJ dance club weekends, owner Kim Dong-ha has established the “Yellow Banana Bar” as one of the longest must visit watering holes around the area.

PNU CROSSROADS [Live Music/Pub] open: 7pm-late tel: 051-515-1181 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ crossroads A small, but atmospheric watering hole in PNU, Crossroads has been a Busan institution amongst the expats for years. The subtly-lit second floor venue has a Happy Hour on offer every day from 7pm to 8pm on gin, vodka and rum mixes, and a Ladies Night Friday, for singles to meet other singles. FARMERS BURGERS [American/Korean Fusion] People rave about it. Nominated in Best Burger. GANESH [Indian] Small spot with good Indian fare on the menu. INTERPLAY [Live Music/Event] Live music, hit or miss if you catch on a good night. LOVING HUT [Vegetarian] www.lovinghut.co.kr tel: 051-518-0115 MOO MONK [Live Music] Can catch some great Korean indie bands here. PACO TACO [Mexican] open: 7pm - late, Closed Mondays

The newest Mexican restaurant to hit the city, Paco Taco resides in Kebabistan’s old digs in the heart of PNU. Nightly specials add to the fun in Busan’s first tequila pub which serves up mojitos, green iguanas, margaritas, tacos, burritos, and tostadas amongst others. PHO [Vietnamese] Nice Vietnamese food in PNU. RED BOTTLE [Korean/Expat Bar] Good spot to get a drink, and play some darts. SHABANA [Indian] tel: 051-517-1947 Nice Indian food for cheap. SOULTRANE [Comedy/Event/Rock] open: 7pm-late tel: 051-515-1181 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ soul-trane One of the oldest expat bars in the city, the once foreigner oriented Soultrane nonetheless draws a healthy mix of locals, expats and tourists. Happy Hours greet every evening from 8pm to 10pm, and it’s the bar of choice for local comedians every first Friday of the Month for the Ha Ha Hole. THE BASEMENT [Korean/Expat Bar] web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ basement One of the most popular bars in the area. Always a great time, and anchors the PNU scene.

SEOMYEON BUFFALO CHICKEN [Chicken] tel: 051-805-3512 Good chicken chain with several interesting sauces. BUONA OVEN PIZZA [Italian] tel: 051-904-8239 Nice, oven-baked pizza and spaghetti. CLUB FIX [Nightclub] tel: 051-905-5777 web: www.clubfixkorea.info New super club. International DJs and dress code required. DIVISION 9 [Lounge] Pinball, darts, basketball, drinking and good fun. DRAGON DREAM (THE CAVE BAR) [Korean] tel: 051-646-5924 Very interesting decor with a nice selection of food.

NIGHTLIFE & DINING DIRECTORY CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGE.

2012 autumn_ busanhaps.com 45

Services Directory NIGHTLIFE & DINING DIRECTORY CONTINUED FLORIAN’S [Italian] Buffet with a wide selection of dishes. FOXY DANCE [Club] Dance club, usually packed on the weekend. FRESH FRIES FACTORY [International] Some good fish n’ chips and other tasty foods. FUZZY NAVEL- SEOMYEON I [Food/Bar] open: 5pm - 6am tel: 051-808-1007 web: www.fncompany.co.kr Check out the newly refurbished bar offering a variety of entertainment including, soft darts, pool, and table soccer. Awesome DJs and a wide floor make this place to be at night. Also, new to Seomyeon, the same amazing Mexican food as served at the Haeundae Fuzzy Navel is prepared in our large renovated kitchen. FUZZY NAVEL- SEOMYEON Il [Bar] open: 5pm - 6am tel: 051-817-2242 web: www.fncompany.co.kr On the ground floor with a sliding window for when the weather is good, an excellent mix of Koreans and foreigners makes this a good place to make new friends. A comfortable atmosphere, where you will be looked after by the friendly staff, who will even give you a fireshow if you are celebrating a special occasion. JUDIE NINE BRAU [Brew Pub] Good place for home-brewed beer. LOVING HUT [Vegetarian] tel: 051-808-7718 www.lovinghut.co.kr METAL CITY [Rock/Live Music] Pool, darts and live music. ROCK N’ ROLL BAR [Rock] A true dive. Good atmosphere and pool and darts. T.G.I. FRIDAY’S [Chain] tel: 051-805-3164 Two locations in Seomyeon to choose from. THE SPOT [Lounge/Bottle Service] Bottle service, recently under renovations. THURSDAY PARTY [Korean/Expat Bar] open: 6pm - late tel: 051-818-6621 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ thursday-party-1 You can expect more of the same from the Seomyeon Thursday Party, which caters to a young, eclectic mix of Koreans and expats. Nestled amongst a slew of bars and restaurants behind Judie’s Taewha, Thursday Party stands out for their 46 HAPS_autumn 2012

unique charm, quality service and hip atmosphere amongst the Korean cool. VITO [Italian] Open: Early for lunch, late for dinner tel: 051-806-5868 web: www.busanhaps.com/food/vito Fashioned in the tradition of the small Italian trattoria, Vito brings back a taste of the old country. While the exquisite food is served in an elegant surrounding, this eatery is tucked away in the back streets of Seomyeon, though its reputation for quality ingredients, reasonable prices and attentive service are far from a secret.

NAMPO ARUN THAI [Thai] open: 11a.m. - 10 p.m. tel: 051-908-9085 web: www.facebook.com/arunthai.kr The chefs at Arun Thai bring you succulently prepared authentic Thai dishes at very reasonable rates. This delightful restaurant, nestled on the second floor some 50m in the back alleyway next to KFC, is a great meeting place, whether for a light lunch or large-scale dinner in a stylish environment with friendly service.

SERVICES DIRECTORY AIRLINES AIR BUSAN tel: 051-974-8686 web: www.busanair.com ASIANA AIRLINES - DOMESTIC tel: 051-972-4004 web: www.flyasiana.com ASIANA AIRLINES - INTERNATIONAL tel: 051-971-2626 web: www.flyasiana.com CEBU PACIFIC AIR tel: 051-462-0686 web: www.cebupacificair.com JEJU AIR tel: 070-7420-1502 web: www.jejuair.net KOREAN AIR - INTERNATIONAL tel: 051-970-3227 web: www.koreanair.com LUFTHANSA tel: 02-2019 0180 web: www.lufthansa.com TRANSASIA AIRWAYS tel: 051-463-0093 web: www.tna.com.tw

BUSINESS ORGANIZATIONS AMCHAM #4501, Trade Tower 159-1, Samsungdong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul tel: 02-564-2040 web: www.amchamkorea.org An independent association of Ameri-

can and international businesses, the role of the American Chamber of Commerce is to promote business and trade between the United States and Korea. EUCCK Paradise Hotel (Main Bldg.), 1408-5 Jungdong, Haeundae-gu tel: 051-744-6711 web: www.eucck.org The European Chamber of Commerce aims to provide an effective network of business associates together with discussion forums and seminars on how to do business in Korea, as well as an array of social networking events.

TESOL ALLIANCE tel: 051-818-0502 web: www.tesolalliance.com

KOREAN LESSONS

EDUCATION

BUSAN FOUNDATION FOR INTERNATIONAL ACTIVITIES tel: 051-668-7900 web: www.bfia.or.kr email: busanglobalcenter@gmail.com KLIFF tel: 051-513-0131 web: www.kliff.co.kr email: jennakang@hanmail.net PNU LANGUAGE EDUCATION CENTER tel: 051-510-1983 web: www.ili.pusan.ac.kr email: bangjy77@pusan.ac.kr

FOREIGN SCHOOLS

INFORMATION

BUSAN FOREIGN SCHOOL 1366-3 Jwa-dong, Haeundae-gu tel: 051-747-7199 web: www.busanforeignschool.org BUSAN JAPANESE SCHOOL 173-8 Millak-dong, Suyoung-gu tel: 051-753-4166 web: user.chollian.net/~pusjpnsc BUSAN OVERSEAS CHINESE KINDERGARTEN 548-1 Choryang-dong, Dong-gu tel: 051-468-2845 web: kbces.com.ne.kr INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF BUSAN 798 Nae-ri, Gijang-eup, Gijang-gun tel: 051-742-3332 web: www.bifskorea.org

TESOL TRAINING

KOTESOL Email: bgkotesol@gmail.com Facebook: Busan-Gyeongnam KOTESOL Chapter The Busan-Gyeongnam Chapter of KOTESOL is dedicated to promoting the development of teachers and teacher-trainers, both Koreans and foreigners, in the Gyeongnam province. Details for meetings can be acquired by contacting us either by email or via Facebook. We look forward to seeing you at our next meeting!

EXPAT ASSISTANCE CALL CENTER FOR FOREIGN RESIDENTS IN BUSAN tel: 1577-7716 FREE TRANSLATION SERVICE (BBB) tel: 1588-5644 MULTICULTURAL FAMILY SUPPORT CENTER tel: 1577-5432

INFORMATION CENTERS TOURIST INFORMATION SERVICE tel: 1330 BEXCO TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER tel: 051-740-7300 BUSAN GLOBAL CENTER tel: 1577-7716 BUSAN INT’L PASSENGER TERMINAL TOURIST INFORMATION tel: 051-465-3471 BUSAN STATION TOUR INFORMATION tel: 051-441-6565 GIMHAE INT’L AIRPORT TOUR INFORMATION (DOMESTIC) tel: 051-973-4607 GIMHAE INT’L AIRPORT TOUR INFORMATION (INTERNATIONAL) tel: 051-973-2800 HAEUNDAE TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER tel: 051-749-5700 INTERNATIONAL FERRY INFORMATION CENTER tel: 051-465-3471 NOPODONG BUS TERMINAL TOURIST INFORMATION tel: 051-508-9400 UN MEMORIAL CEMETERY TOURIST INFORMATION tel: 051-625-1608

MEDICAL HEALTH CENTERS DONGNAE HEALTH CENTER 702-54, Myeongryun-2 dong, Dongnae-gu tel: 051-555-4000 HAEUNDAE HEALTH CENTER 1339, Jwa-2 dong, Haeundae-gu tel: 051-746-4000 JUNG-GU HEALTH CENTER 1 Ga 1, Daecheong-dong, Jung-gu tel: 051-600-4741

HERBAL CLINICS

DONGEUI UNIVERSITY HOSPITAL 397-3, Bujeon-1 dong, Busanjin-gu tel: 051-803-5430 GOOD SAMSUN HANBANG 1162-2, Jurye-dong, Sasang-gu tel: 051-325-0300

HOSPITALS BUK-GU/DONGNAE

MARYKNOLL MEDICAL CENTER 12, Daecheong-dong 4-ga tel: 051-465-8801 web: www.maryknoll.co.kr

NAM-GU BUSAN ST. MARY'S MEDICAL CENTER 538-41, Yongho 4-dong tel: 051-933-7114 web: www.bsm.or.kr

SEO-GU DONG-A UNIVERSITY MEDICAL CENTER 3-ga, #1 Dongdaeshin-dong tel: 051-240-2400 web: www.damc.or.kr PUSAN NATIONAL UNIVERSITY HOSPITAL 10, Ami-dong 1-ga tel: 051-254-0171 web: www.pnug.co.kr

SUYEONG

NEW PHILADELPHIA CHURCH Gwangalli Beach My Ku Restaurant Weekday Contact: (051) 932-6832 web: www.newphilly.cc Services: Sundays, 2:30 pm

web: www.unmck.or.kr Hours of operation - 09:00 ~ 17:00 Open Year Round Admission fee - Free

RELIGIOUS SERVICES

ONNURI ENGLISH SERVICE Jangsan, Haeundae-gu tel: 010-7570-9171 Services: Sundays, 10 a.m..

AL-FATIH MASJID MOSQUE Namsan-dong, #30-1 Guemjeong-gu tel: 051-518-9991 web: www.busanislam.or.kr Services: 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily GIFT MINISTRY Myung-nyun-dong, Dongnae-gu tel: 010-7999-8644 web: www.tinyurl.com/lifeisagift Services: Saturdays,10:30 a.m. HONGBEOPSA TEMPLE Dugu-dong, #1220-1, Guemjeong-gu tel: 010-8771-6265 HOSANNA CHURCH Myeongji-dong, #3245-5 Gangseo-gu, tel: 051-209-0191 web: www.him-busan.blogspot.com Services: Sundays, 12:30 p.m.

BUSAN CENTUM HOSPITAL 1077-1, Gwangan 3-dong tel: 051-760-5000 web: www.centumhospital.com BUSAN HANNAH WOMAN'S HOSPITAL 304, Namcheon-dong tel: 051-625-2300 web: www.hannah4u.co.kr GOOD GANGAN HOSPITAL 40-1, 41-9, Namcheon-dong tel: 051-625-0900 web: www.gang-an.or.kr

BUMIN HOSPITAL 380-4, Deokcheon 1-dong tel: 051-330-3000 web: www.buminhos.co.kr DONG EUI MEDICAL CENTER San 45-1, Yangjeong 2-dong tel: 051-867-5101 web: www.demc.kr DONGNAE BONG SENG HOSPITAL 766, Anlak 1-dong tel: 051-531-6000 web: www.bongseng.com DONGRAE WOORIDUL HOSPITAL MUSEUMS 205-10, Nakmin-dong tel: 051-559-5000 BUSAN MUSEUM OF ART web: www.dongrae.wooridul.co.kr 40, Apec-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan INJE UNIVERSITY BUSAN tel: 051-740-2602 PAIK HOSPITAL web: www.art.busan.go.kr 1435, Jwa-dong Opening Hours - 09:00 ~ 20:00 tel: 051-890-6114 Closed - Jan. 1, Every First Monday Admission Fee - Free HAEUNDAE BUSAN MODERN HISTORY MUSEUM 104, Daechung-ro, Jung-gu, Busan HYOSUNG CITY HOSPITAL tel: 051-253-3845 1094-2, Jaesong 1-dong web: www.modern.busan.go.kr tel: 051-709-3000 Opening Hours - 09:00 ~ 18:00 web: www.hshos.com Closed - Jan.1, Every First Monday INJE UNIV. HAEUNDAE Admission Fee - Free PAIK HOSPITAL BUSAN MUSEUM 1435, Jwa-dong 63, UN Peace-ro, Nam-gu, Busan tel: 051-797-0100 tel: 051-610-7111 web: www.paik.ac.kr/Haeundae web: www.museum.busan.go.kr Hours of operation - 09:00 ~ 20:00 JUNG-GU Closed - Jan. 1, Every First Monday Admission fee - Free HAEYANG HOSPITAL BUSAN UN MEMORIAL CEMETERY 80-8 Jungang-dong 4-ga AND PARK tel: 051-469-4456 779, Daeyon 4 dong, Nam-gu, Busan web: www.haeyang.net tel: 051-625-0625

SHOPPING DEPT. STORES LOTTE DEPT. STORE www.lotteshopping.com Open: 10:30 ~ 20:00 FOUR LOCATIONS CENTUM CITY 1496, U Dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan tel: 051-730-2500 DONGNAE 502-3, Oncheonjeong, Dongnae-gu, Busan tel: 051-605-2500 GWANGBOK 20-1, 7 ga, Jung-ang Dong, Jung-gu, Busan tel: 051-678-2500 SEOMYEON Bujeondong, Busan-jingu, Busan tel: 051-810-2500 HYUNDAI DEPT. STORE 62-5, Beomil-dong, Dong-gu, Busan tel: 051-667-2233 Open: 10:30 ~ 20:00 SHINSEGAE DEPT. STORE (CENTUM CITY) 1495 Wu-dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan tel: 1588-1234 web: www.english.shinsegae.com Open: 10:30 ~ 20:00

CLOTHING/SPORTS

INTERNATIONAL COMMUNITY CHURCH Minerva Hall, Pusan University of Foreign Studies tel: 010-8326-1985 web: www.iccbusan.org Services: Sundays, 10:30 a.m. ICC is a close-knit community church that is committed to sharing the incredible good news of grace and forgiveness through Jesus Christ. ICC is developing a community of Christ-followers from all nations. Visit any Sunday at 10:30 am or contact us for more info! www. iccbusan.org 010-8326-1985

KAI SURF SHOP 183-11 Gwangan-dong, Suyeong-gu tel: 051-753-2746

SOCIAL/NON-PROFIT ORGANIZATIONS

BUSAN BANDITS RUGBY Facebook Group: Busan Bandits BUSAN BEACH VOLLEYBALL Facebook Group: Busan Beach Volleyball BUSAN BOOK SWAP Facebook Group: Busan Book Swap BUSAN BOWLING LEAGUE Contact: David Alderman tel: 010.7919.1223 Facebook Group: Busan Bowling League

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Services Directory BUSAN FOUNDATION FOR INTERNATIONAL ACTIVITIES tel: 051-668-7900 web: www.bfia.or.kr

GROCERIES COSTCO web: www.costco.co.kr E-MART web: www.emart.com HOMEPLUS web: www.homeplus.co.kr MEGAMART web: www.megamart.co.kr

BUSAN FRIENDSHIP GROUP www.meetup.com/Pusans BUSAN SCUBA Facebook Group: Busan Scuba BTC FOOTBALL FB Group: Busan Transportation Corporation Supporters Fanpage EPIK TEACHERS IN BUSAN Facebook Group: Busan EPIK EXPAT SAILING CLUB Contact: Mark Chi email: Koreasailing@gmail.com web: www.busansailing.com LAOCHRA BUSAN GAELIC ATHLETIC ASSOCIATION CLUB Contact: Peter Bonner tel: 010-8344-1410 email: busangaa@gmail.com Facebook Group: Laochra Busan Members SALSA DANCING web: www.busansalsa.blogspot.com SOCRATES CAFE Facebook Group: Busan Socrates Cafe ULTIMATE FRISBEE Facebook Group: BusanUltimate

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT BUSANHAPS.COM

INTERNET GROCERIES EZSHOP KOREA web: www.ezshopkorea.com FATBAG web: www.fatbag.co.kr IHERB web: www.iherb.com INDIAN SHOP web: www.indianshopkorea.com NICE MARKET web: www.nicemarket.net

FAST FOOD GET SCUBA CERTIFIED IN BUSAN! Sea World Dive Center is a friendly & professional PADI CERTIFIED SCUBA center based right here in Busan. We offer a wide selection of courses for both the beginner and the pro in both English and Korean. Along with a great selection of the latest equipment, we also book national and international dive tours for dive enthusiasts. Contact us today for more info!

MCDONALDS tel: 1600-5252 web: www.mcdonalds.co.kr LOTTERIA tel: 1600-9999 web: www.lotteria.com BURGER KING No delivery web: www.burgerking.co.kr

POPEYE’S CHICKEN No delivery web: www.popeyes.co.kr KFC No delivery web: www.kfckorea.com QUIZNOS No delivery web: www.quiznos.co.kr DUNKIN DONUTS No delivery web: www.dunkindonuts.co.kr MISTER DONUT No delivery web: misterdonut.gsretail.com BASKIN ROBBINS No delivery web: www.baskinrobbins.co.kr

PIZZA DOMINOS tel: 1577-3082 web: www.dominos.co.kr PAPA JOHN’S tel: 1577-8080 web: www.pji.co.kr PIZZA HUT tel: 1588-5588 web: www.pizzahut.co.kr MR. PIZZA tel: 1577-0077 www.mrpizza.co.kr

Humetro Call Center Lost & Found Center

48 HAPS_autumn 2012

Seomyeon Stn.

St. Louis Orthodontics

Advertorial

BRACES: NO LONGER “KID STUFF” Gone are the days when getting braces for that perfect smile is viewed only for children and teens. According to the American Association of Orthodontists (AAO), the number of adults in the US getting braces has risen 25 percent in the last decade, with roughly 20 percent of all orthodontic patients now comprising people over 25. “The stigma of being ‘too old’ for braces has diminished for the most part,” said Dr. Stephen Tracey in a recent interview with the LA Times, adding that his oldest patient was 80. Dr. Cho Yong-woo, a 15-year veteran in the orthodontics field in Busan, South Korea, says that the rate of Korean adults getting braces is even higher. “I would say that anywhere from 60 to 70 percent of my patients are adults.” Cho, who studied at the Center for Advanced Dental Education at St. Louis University, is one of only 15 South Korean members of the prestigious American Board of Orthodontics (ABO) and the only member not practicing in Seoul. The ABO screening process is so stringent that only about 25% of Americans themselves are approved for certification. Speaking at his practice in Seomyeon, which he named St. Louis Orthodontics in honor of his alma mater, Cho attributes the rise in adults getting braces to advances in dental science. “The days of giant metal braces with steel wires and headgear are gone,” says Cho. “Nowadays people can get braces with clear ceramic brackets which are less noticeable, or have them attached to the back of the teeth. The field of orthodontics has made some great advances in the past decade and more adults are taking advantage of it.”

Though costs vary depending upon the extent of correction needed, South Korean prices are comparable and sometimes lower than those in other countries. The typical duration of the procedure averages between 12 to 20 months and requires in-office adjustments every four-to-six weeks, said Cho. For expats living abroad for a shorter period of time, Cho offers a referral service tailored to the patient’s next destination after leaving Korea. “Before the patient leaves to return home or relocate to another country, I personally help them research local orthodontists’ qualifications and specialties in the area they will move to,” explained Cho. “We contact orthodontists before our patients’ arrival and share patient records and procedures to ensure the optimal transition from our service to another service abroad.” Cho feels this kind of commitment is essential when considering the commitment the patient is making to have a better smile. “When a person decides to spend two years of their lives and invest money to improve their smile, I feel it’s my job as their doctor to offer the best service possible every step of the way.” If you would like a free consultation with Dr. Cho about the state of your smile, you can visit his office in Seomyeon next to Lotte Department Store or call at 051-645-2895. You can also visit St. LouIs Orthodontics on the web at www.slortho.co.kr 2012 autumn_ busanhaps.com 49

Fuzzy Navel Company

Advertorial

THE BACK ROOM

SHHH DON'T TELL... THE BACK ROOM IS THE FIRST 'NEW YORK STYLE' SECRET BAR IN BUSAN. MIXOLOGISTS USE THE FRESHEST INGREDIENTS TO CRAFT ONE-OF-A-KIND COCKTAILS OFFERING BUSAN'S FINEST SELECTION OF TOP SHELF LIQUOR. ELEGANT CASUAL DRESS CODE. WEB: WWW.TBRBUSAN.COM | OPENING HOURS: 9PM-5AM | FOR RESERVATIONS CALL: 1599-6349 | FACEBOOK: FUZZYNAVELBUSAN

TAP & TAPAS

HAEUNDAE’S ONE AND ONLY GASTROPUB OFFERS THE BEST BEER IN BUSAN! WITH OUR STATE-OF-THE-ART REFRIGERATION SYSTEM, OUR BEER IS ALWAYS FRESH AND TASTY. NOT IN THE MOOD FOR BEER? ENJOY OUR TAPAS WITH A COCKTAIL! WEB: WWW.TAPNTAPAS.COM | OPENING HOURS : 3PM-5AM | TEL: 051-747-6318 | FACEBOOK: FUZZYNAVELBUSAN 50 HAPS_autumn 2012

Arun Thai

ARUN THAI IS A WELCOME ADDITION TO BUSAN Busan has seen a few Thai restaurants come and go over the years and much like anything with a foreign label here on the peninsula, the cost of “a taste of Thailand” often carried a premium price. The recently opened Arun Thai in the Nampo Dong area of Busan is pleasantly bucking the trend with great Thai food prepared by native Thai chefs at reasonable prices. The chefs, Phot Samorkhang and Pinit Sangram both hail from Khon Kaen, located in the Northeast of Thailand in an area famous for its silk. The owners, husband and wife team, Min Kim and his wife Cassie Kim, met the two chefs while working at Thai restaurants in New Zealand. They returned to Busan, Min Kim’s hometown, and got married.

Kwon Bae-Keun Dental Clinic

KWON BAE-KEUN DENTAL CLINIC: A REASON TO SMILE When looking for a dentist, there are many traits potential patients should look for. Above all, natural talents and character are two of a handful that Dr. Kwon Bae-keun possesses. Along with a plethora of services, which includes basic cleanings, bleaching, scaling, implants, orthodontics, gum disease treatment and inlays, the clean comfortable surroundings make a trip to the dentist seem like a harmless visit to an old friend. Having graduated with a PhD in dentistry from Pusan National University, Dr. Kwon spent eight years in New Zealand before returning to Busan, where he has run his clinic for

Advertorial “When I lived in New Zealand I always ate Thai food and thought it was delicious,” recalled Kyung-min. “I searched the Internet when I moved back here and couldn’t find much, so I thought I would open up a restaurant myself.” The restaurant, which is open for both lunch and dinner (orders are taken until 9:30 pm) was immediately a hit with expats and Koreans alike in what what is a common international adoration for Thai food. The main dishes on the menu range from 9,000 to 13,000 won per dish with good size portions and appetizers running between 4,000 to 6,000 won. Arun Thai offers most of the traditional selections of Thai food including green, red, yellow and Panang curries. Their som tam (green papaya salad) is a great way to kick off a meal, or to cleanse the palate between courses and the Tom Yum soup is tangy perfection. There are also a few interesting twists that the chefs Phot and Pinit tailored to the Kiwi appetite while living in New Zealand. One is a yummy appetizer known as “Prawn Toast.” It is basically four slices of a fresh baguette with garlic, a dab of mayonnaise and a large prawn on top. Cassie said the great thing about having two Thai chefs in the kitchen is that customers can get just about anything that want. “We can do anything you like with the food. If you want it traditional style, or you have a favorite dish that’s not on the menu, we can do whatever you like.” The excellent service, lovely atmosphere, fresh ingredients and veritable flavors at Arun Thai are well worth the trip to Nampo, and a whole lot cheaper than a round trip flight to BKK.

Visit Arun Thai on Facebook: facebook.com/arunthai.kr

Advertorial five years. While many dentists around the city also provide quality service, it’s the little details that make Dr. Kwon’s clinic stand out above the rest. “My philosophy is to treat patients as if they are family,” he says. “Patients can experience high quality service on a visit to our office.” Because so much of dentistry deals with reconstructing the health and appearance of teeth, Dr. Kwon notes that a dentist’s most vital skills extend beyond medical practice. A good dentist must have an excellent perceptual ability, meticulous attention to detail, manual dexterity and good interpersonal skills. With their main concern being their patients’ well-being, the staff—from the hygienists to the support staff—all make you feel like you are the top priority on each and every visit. By offering compassionate and supportive advice, the clinic provides the required information and motivation to help patients recover quickly without breaking the bank. Dr. Kwon acknowledges that while eating is one of the greatest enjoyments of life, he’s not without a sense of humor when giving advice to patients: “Without teeth, we cannot enjoy delicious foods. And brush your teeth three times a day!” To get there, take subway line 2 to Yeonsan-dong. It is located next to the Busan Medical Center.

Kwon Bae-keun Dental Clinic Business Hours: Mon - Sat 9:30 a.m. - 7 p.m. (lunch break 12:30 p.m. - 2 p.m.) Closed Sunday Location: 2F, Samik Building, Yeonsan-dong Telephone: 010-9306-3219 Website: www.dr-kwon.co.kr/eng 2012 autumn_ busanhaps.com 51

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Dongcheon Road

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PNU Main Gate

Pusan National Uni. Road

4 2 13

Kayodae Road

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Restaurant Cafe

52 HAPS_autumn 2012

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Jungkangdae Road

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02 04 03

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Busan Bank

Sojeon Road

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Dongcheon Road

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Sojeon Road

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Paradise Hotel Dept. Store

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Seomyeon Road

Cosmetic Surgery Street

Haeundae Aquarium

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KYUNGSUNG

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Bukyung University

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Perugio Apartments

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Tourist Information

Daegaksa Temple

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02 TGI Friday’s CAFES 01 Angel-In-Us 02 Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf 03 Twosome Place 04 Tom n’ Toms BUSINESS 01 Kangs Dental 02 Apple Store KYUNGSUNG BARS/PUBS/ LOUNGES 01 Almost Famous 02 Club Realize 03 HQ 04 Blue Monkey 05 Eva’s 06 Dugout 07 Thursday Party 08 New Foxy 09 Vinyl Underground 10 Ol’55 11 Fabric 12 Fully Booked 13 Monk RESTAURANTS 01 O’Taco 02 Burger & Pasta 03 Outback 04 Okkudak 05 California Burrito CAFES 01 Starbucks 02 Tom n’ Toms 03 Angel-In-Us 04 Angel-In-Us NAMPO-DONG RESTAURANTS 01 Arun Thai 02 KFC CAFES 01 Caffe Bene 02 Starbucks 03 Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf 04 Angel-In-Us

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Busan Tower

05 Beached 06 Sharky’s Business RESTAURANTS 01 Burger n’ Pasta Club 02 Bella Citta Bar/Pub/Lounge 03 Blue Saigon CAFES Restaurant 01 Tom n’ Toms 02 Twosome Place Cafe 03 Starbucks HAEUNDAE BUSINESS 01 Kai Surf Shop CLUBS 01 Murphii PNU 02 Elune BARS/PUBS/ 03 Maktum LOUNGES BARS/PUBS/ 01 Thirsty Moose LOUNGES Wa Bar 01 Thursday Party 02 03 Basement 02 Miami 88 04 Crossroads 03 Wolfhound 04 Soultrane 04 Rock n’ Roll 05 Red Bottle 05 Fuzzy Navel 06 Interplay 06 U2 07 Moo Monk 07 Miami 88 II 08 Bling 08 Sector 510 RESTAURANTS 09 Gecko’s 10 Sharky’s 01 Won Chon 11 Billie Jean 02 The Box 12 Tap and Tapas 03 Tajmahal RESTAURANTS CAFES 01 TGI Friday’s 01 Angel-In-Us 01 Mad For Garlic 02 Charlie Brown 01 Ganga 03 Twosome Place 02 Hello Thai 04 Starbucks 03 Namaste 05 Coffee Bean & 04 Loving Hut Tea Leaf CAFES SEOMYEON 01 Coffine Gurunaru CLUBS 02 Angel-In-Us 01 Fix 03 Angel-In-Us 02 Foxy 04 Starbucks BARS/PUBS/ 05 Caffe Bene LOUNGES GWANGAN 01 Rock n’ Roll 02 Spot BARS/PUBS/ 03 Thursday Party LOUNGES 04 Fuzzy Navel 01 Paris 05 Metal City 02 Beach Bikini 03 Thursday Party RESTAURANTS 04 Fuzzy Navel 01 Vito

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PIFF Squaure Gukje Market

Restaurant Cafe 2012 autumn_ busanhaps.com 53

The Last Word

THARP ON:

BASEBALL BY CHRIS THARP ILLUSTRATION BY MICHAEL ROY

h, fall in Busan. Is there any better time of the year? States. We’re a bunch of mumbling, suicidal pussies who are so The brutal, sweaty summer and endless volley of apathetic that we allowed the Supersonics, the only real profestyphoons sputters and dies, as cool air and clear sional franchise to bring a title to our city (sorry, WNBA doesn’t skies prevail. BIFF comes to town and transforms cut it), to get sold to a load of rednecks in Oklahoma City. And our gritty port into Asia’s most glamorous Octo- what did this group of hicks do with such a losing squad? They ber destination, while the city’s many mountains are packed transformed them into a lean, mean unit that nearly won the with happy ajummas and ajeosshis ambling along the trails, eat- NBA championship this year. Get ‘em out of Seattle and they iming pajeon and drinking makkeoli until they go red in the face, mediately start winning. Imagine that. Anyone have a shotgun stagger, and eventually fall down. I can borrow? Happy times, indeed. So why do I even care about Lotte Giants baseball? I’m not KoIf that weren’t enough, there is one other thing that adds oo- rean, nor will I ever be. Busan is my adopted home, not my real dles of magic autumn in Busan, and that’s baseball. one. What stake do I have in their success? September and October are the months when the Korean The answer is “none”. But that doesn’t stop me from going wild baseball season winds down, and this year holds a lot of prom- for them. Hell, if I lived in Daegu, I’d be a big Lions fans, or if I reise for fans of the Busan’s mighty Lotte Giants. As I type, the Gi- sided in Incheon for years, I’m sure I’d support SK with the same ants are in second place, a spot they’ve fervor. I just love Korean baseball. maintained for some weeks now. Even And why is that? I’VE GONE TO MLB GAMES— with the departure of power-hitter Lee Yes, the level play is pretty good—these WITH THEIR PRICE Dae-ho—who’s currently smacking bats guys know what they’re doing—even if GOUGING, ENDLESS RULES, they’re not MLB material. But like most over in Japan—the Giants have had one TEPID CROWDS AND of their best seasons ever, staying at the of us here, I just love the atmosphere of front of the pack for most of the spring STALIN-LIKE SECURITY. SURE, the games. You can bring in pretty much and summer. They are currently in a whatever you want to the park, without THE LEVEL OF PLAY IS BETgreat spot to make it to the championso much of a glance from the security. TER, BUT FOR ship series, and I am slightly optimistic The fans cheer and chant for every player, A STRAIGHT-UP FUN that they could win the whole burrito each of whom has his own unique anthem. EXPERIENCE, GIVE ME this time around. Food and drink are cheap and plentiful— Slightly. KOREAN BASEBALL ANY DAY. the game has more of the feel of a huge But I have to admit that I’m like this evparty than a sporting event. People guzzle ery year. For the past four years, the Giants have made the play- beer, shoot soju, nibble squid and eat simply insane amounts offs, only to eat it hard and choke in a manner that can only be of chicken. (How many are killed for each game? It must be like described as Special Olympian. Lotte always plays with a lot of the Holocaust for them.) Koreans at the game are as friendly as determination and heart during the regular season, but once it gets, all high-fives and hugs when Lotte makes a play. And in they stumble into the playoffs, they usually become the Korean the eighth or ninth inning, when everyone comes together for equivalent of the Bad News Bears. It’s almost as if I expect to be a 30,000-person-strong rendition of Busan galmaegi. I dare the catastrophically let down. hairs not to stand up on your arm. It’s chilling and wonderful all Every year, it’s the same: There I am, eyes pasted to the flat at the same time. screen at the bar, gripping my pint of Cass like a short sword as At home I’ve gone to MLB games—with their price gouging, I watch that final, defeated batter take those last pitches in the endless rules, tepid crowds and Stalin-like security. Sure, the ninth inning of the elimination game. He hits a pop up to right level of play is better, but for a straight-up fun (not to mention field which is easily caught, and that’s that. I bang my head on affordable) experience, give me Korean baseball any day. the bar and screech at the walls; Lotte is once again sent packSo grab a box of chicken and a cold can of Hite and cheer the ing, tails between their legs. Lotte Giants as they make a run for it this fall. They could use It’s the same old thing every year. your help. And what if they don’t make it? What if they come But why should I expect anything different? I’m from Seattle, up short again? Well, don’t feel too bad, it could be worse. You which is the most pathetic sports city in the whole of the United could be a Seattle Mariners fan. 54 HAPS_autumn 2012

2012 autumn_ busanhaps.com 55

THE

MAGAZINE FOR WHAT’S HAPPENING IN BUSAN.

ARMY BASES FIND A COPY OF HAPS AT ANY USChinhae Naval Base, Camp Walker (Daegu) Camp Carroll (Daegu), Pier 8 (Busan) OF THESE GREAT LOCATIONS! Seaman’s Club (Busan) GWANGALLI Fuzzy Navel Thursday Party Burger n’ Pasta Tom & Toms Angels n’ Us Good Gangan Hospital Beached Sharky’s Kai Surf

PNU The Basement Thirsty Moose The Crossroads Soultrane Paco Taco Red Bottle Angels n’ Us PNU Charlie Brown

HAPS

MAGAZINE

KYUNGSUNG Ol’55 Thursday Party HQ Eva’s Kino Eye Burger & Pasta Blue Monkey Dugout Almost Famous Fully Booked O’Taco California Burrito Kyungsung University

SEOMYEON Lotte Hotel 7 Luck Casino English Global Village Rock n’ Roll Bar Thursday Party Fuzzy Navel Metal City Vito T.G.I. Friday’s Kang’s Dental Clinic St. Louis Orthodontics Pagoda Jungchul Academy

HAEUNDAE TOURIST CENTERS Sharky’s Bar Busan Train Station Thursday Party Gimhae Airport Billie Jean Ferry Station Fuzzy Navel Haeundae Beach Rock n’ Roll House BEXCO Novotel Jungang Dong Paradise Hotel/Casino Gwangalli Beach Wolfhound Song Jeong Beach T.G.I. Friday’s Busan Global Center Seacloud Hotel UN Cemetery Hi Korea Hostel Busan Foreign Service Center Tap and Tapas Itaewon (Seoul) HQ Jangsan Myeong-dong (Seoul)