Haps Magazine Issue 26 by Haps Magazine

CONTENTS FEATURES

5 Q’s for Simon Bond | 22 Hot Hot K-pop | 24 Busan’s Better Brews | 26

REGULARS

SPORT

My KBO | 34

TRAVEL

Singapore: The Wild Crab Chase | 36 Eonyang Amethyst Cave Land | 38

COMMUNITY

Goodbye Glasses | 40 Sharing Becomes Culture | 41

FOOD

A Taste of Manhattan’s Koreatown: In Perspective | 42

MUSIC & NIGHTLIFE

DIRECTORY/GUIDES Hotel News & Directory | 50 Directory | 51-59 Busan Metro Map | 58 Area Maps | 52-59 A bird’s-eye view of the Bruges, Belgium. Photography on this page by Simon Bond. 6

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26 THE RIGHT SHOT SETTING

Professional photographer and author Simon Bond talks about his photography and what it takes to put together the right shot.

2013 summer_ busanhaps.com

EDITOR’S LETTER

ummer is in full swing and the tourists are flooding into Busan to drink all our beer. Thankfully, as this issue highlights, there’s a lot more great beer to go around. Gone are the days of saddling up to the bar and looking at two or three taps pouring forth only two or three brands of beer. These are the days when good suds abound. Perhaps some future historian scholar a millennium from now will pen a dissertation tying the rise of Korea to the advent of great beer choice. “It was a time when the protected markets of Korea opened to the world and the once-small country first acquiesced to a taste for the finer things in life. It wasn’t long thereafter that the Koreans successfully invaded and conquered China.” What goes better with beer than good music and dancing? This issue, Haps features rising hip-hop rhyme-smith J Jones. As music editor Seth Fellenz puts it, even “drunks who didn’t come to see him end up swayed by his energy.” On the dance side, there’s James Turnbull writing on K-pop girl groups shedding more clothes and dancing more provocatively. Christy Swain is back with some fashion tips; Jen Sotham reports from Koreatown in New York on American-based Korean food; Michael Fraiman chases chili crabs in Singapore; Jessica Steele writes about the interesting and eccentric offerings of Eonyang Amethyst Cave Land; and departing music editor Eugene Smith writes about Club Realize before he heads off to study in Oregon. All in all, another good issue from a group of great writers, photographers and artists. All of whom I look forward to having a beer with. Except Eugene, who will not be allowed to drink under US law.

ON THE COVER There once was a time when beer was just beer. How things have changed, as has the increasing variety of selection and taste. We give you the lowdown on beer in Busan. Photography by Ben Weller

Rapper J Jones. Photography on this page by Cool Feet Media. 8

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NOTHING’S

REALLY

REAL

Rapper J Jones has just released his first collection of tracks as well as a very cool video that is about as underground as one can get.

ASK A LOCAL HAPS ASKS A SEASONED LOCAL ABOUT WHAT THEY LIKE ABOUT BUSAN AND WHAT THEY RECOMMEND TO PEOPLE LIVING AND VISITING HERE. NAME: Kim Byung-hoon OCCUPATION: PR Director, Busan IPark RESIDENCE: Su-young, Busan WHAT IS A PLACE YOU WOULD RECOMMEND TO PEOPLE VISITING KOREA FOR THE FIRST TIME? Insa-dong is one of most visited places among foreign travelers in Korea. The place is often regarded as a living museum in which the modern and traditional coexist in a harmonious manner. The district contains historical sites and its roads and alleys are lined with traditional tea houses, restaurants, calligraphy shops, antique shops, art galleries and craft workshops. I think Insa-dong is the best place to experience Korea quickly. WHERE IS YOUR FAVORITE PLACE TO EAT IN BUSAN THAT PEOPLE MAY NOT KNOW ABOUT? I recommend Omakjip (오막집), which is specialized for gopjang (곱창), broiled beef or pork intestines. I think gopjang is a strange food for foreigners. But if you try it, you can enjoy the great taste. Having oily and full flavors of gopjang is a very popular food for Japanese tourists. After eating that, you should eat gopjang fried rice (곱볶음밥). WHERE IS THE BEST PLACE TO ENJOY SUMMER IN KOREA? I recommend Baekryeon in Gimje, North Jeolla Province. It is amazing to visit the 66,000-square-meter Baekryeonji Pond, where white lotuses are in bloom. There are so many performances of traditional Korean music and dance, and you can participate in folk games and view exhibitions of stone tiles, calligraphy and Buddhist paintings. Visitors will also be able to taste and buy Baekryon tea, made of green tea and white lotus leaves. The festival is the best place to escape from the Korean hot summer. CAN YOU RECOMMEND SOMEWHERE TO ENJOY THAT EXPATS MAY NOT HAVE DISCOVERED? If someone visits Busan, I will recommend to go to Bongsudae on Hwangnyeong Mountain. Bongsudae is one of historic sites of Busan. Long ago, Korean people used smoke to communicate with each local government. By using fire, they could notice things like enemy attacks or big events. Bongsudae was made for guarding overseas attacks from Japan, so it was built on top of a mountain so you can see the whole of Busan’s view. When it is a clear day, you can see Haeundae Beach, Gwangalli Beach and, on special days, Daemado in Japan. Moreover, you can get there by a car or taxi. 2013 summer_ busanhaps.com

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CONTRIBUTORS ANTHONY VELASQUEZ Anthony claims Steve Perry, lead singer of the band Journey, is the second most famous person ever to come out of Hanford, California. Who’s the first? This guy. “Don’t Stop Believin’.”

CHRISTY SWAIN A fashion-loving girl, this Kiwi would like to divide her time between Paris and Milan, but for now she’ll settle for Busan, browsing the vintage stores of Seomyeon or the High St. of Nampo-dong.

EUGENE SMITH Departing music editor Eugene was born in Costa Rica to Korean and British parents. Sadly, Eugene will be leaving his band Millstone Grit and heading to Oregon to start university. Yah, the kid’s got game.

JAMES TURNBULL Since coming to Korea in 2000, James has become widely known for his highly respected blog The Grand Narrative. He lives in Busan with his wife and two daughters, Alice and Elizabeth.

SETH FELLENZ Having this issue taken over the helm of Haps music editor, Seth has moved from Wisconsin to Busan twice. When he’s not busy playing screen golf or grocery shopping, you can find him around town laughing at his own jokes.

CHRIS THARP

Chris hails from Washington State and has lived in Busan for over six years. When not when banging on a guitar or screaming into a microphone, he likes to write. If you buy him a drink, he’ll tell you all about the times he met Kurt Cobain, but you probably already know the story.

JEN SOTHAM Jen hails from New York and has been eating her way through Busan since 2006. The first Korean phrase she learned was chal-mo-gu-soob-ni-da.

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PUBLISHER Ju Shin-hye EDITOR IN CHIEF Bobby McGill SALES DIRECTOR Michael Schneider MANAGING EDITOR Jeff Liebsch ASSOCIATE EDITOR Michael Fraiman

ART DIRECTOR Russell McConnell WEBMASTER Danny Himes

CULTURE EDITOR Jen Sotham FASHION EDITOR Christy Swain MUSIC EDITOR Seth Fellenz DESIGNERS: WRITERS: Kelvin Brassbridge II Anthony Velasquez Jen Sotham PHOTOGRAPHERS: Chris Tharp Ben Weller James Turnbull Russell McConnell Michael Fraiman Eugene Smith Simon Bond Jessica Steele Jen Sotham Michael Fraiman Jessica Steele Seth Fellenz Cool Feet Media Jung-ho Kim Alexandra Don Elaine Kim Bae Jin-su Jeff Liebsch ILLUSTRATORS: Bobby McGill Michael Roy Stephane Turcotte ACCOUNTS SERVICES Marie Sung TRANSLATION: Kim So-yeon Junnie Ahn INTERN Shin Kyung-bin

Follow us @busanhaps Busan Haps Magazine SUBMISSIONS BUSAN HAPS busanhaps@gmail.com Summer 2013 Issue 26 BUSINESS REGISTRATION ADVERTISING mikey.busanhaps@gmail.com NUMBER: 00001 FIRST PUBLICATION DATE: Sept, 2, 2009 OFFICE ADDRESS: Pale de CZ, 2-19, Jung Dong 1124-2, Haeundae-gu Busan, Republic of Korea

AROUND

KOREA A FEW EVENTS YOU MIGHT WANT TO CHECK OUT AROUND THE PENINSULA THIS SUMMER.

INTERNATIONAL BODYPAINTING FESTIVAL DAEGU, AUGUST 31-SEPTEMBER 1 Daegu has a reputation among Koreans for two things: being the hottest city on the peninsula and having the prettiest women. There could be a connection, but even if there isn’t, painting half-naked women from head-to-toe for public display is one way to cement their reputation. www.dibf.co.kr

SEOUL FRINGE FESTIVAL SEOUL, AUGUST 29SEPTEMBER 14 Celebrating its 15th year, the Seoul Fringe Festival is the most representative independent arts festival in Korea. The festival aims at presenting the indie culture of Hongdae by showcasing various artists and their works from a wide variety of artistic genres. eng.seoulfringefestival.net

JUSTIN BIEBER OCTOBER 10, OLYMPIC PARK GYMNASIUM, SEOUL Love him or hate him, 19-year-old Justin Bieber makes his first pilgrimage to the peninsula on his “Believe” tour. Tickets: ticket.interpark.com • Tickets range from ₩99,000-₩132,000 PLEASE NOTE: DATES FOR EVENTS ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE.

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Events & Culture

AD STARS AUGUST 22-24 Now in its sixth year, AD Stars at BEXCO continues to grow as one of the biggest advertising festivals celebrating the online and offline world. This year, an incredible 12,079 submissions from 59 countries were received, and the 24-section competition is judged by nearly 160 top figures in the advertising industry, including Jacques Séguéla, the vice-president of Havas Group. www.adstars.org

THE

BIG

FIVE

SUMMER BEER FESTIVAL

BUSAN SEA ART FESTIVAL

BUSAN INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL

AUGUST 24

SEPTEMBER 14-OCTOBER 13

OCTOBER 3-12

Enjoy a night of craft beer while enjoying the spectacular view of the Gwangan Bridge as the Galmegi PUB (Pusan Union of Homebrewers) presents a Summer Beer Festival for 25,000 won at the Galmegi Brewing Company. Sample six styles plus a few extra served in half-pints, then choose three pints for your pleasure with recipes crafted for the summer theme party. The event includes a take home glass and is for one night only.

The 18th Busan Sea Art Festival takes place in celebration of the 100th anniversary of the opening of the Songdo Beach under the theme of “With Songdo: Remembrance, Marks, People”. Songdo Beach is host to 35 on-and-off shore installations—15 invited works and 20 final entries—including art works from 11 countries, which will be on display at the month-long event from September 14 until October 13. www.busanbiennale.org

Arguably the most anticipated event in the city each year, the Busan International Film Festival is back for its 18th year of glitz, glamor, stars and the best in world cinema. Considered the most influential film festival in Asia, BIFF features over 200 films, and brings over 100,000 spectators to the theaters each year. You can check out Haps’ complete coverage of the festival, schedules and events at www.busanhaps.com/biff.

WAKEBOARD WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS AUGUST 28-SEPTEMBER 1 Held bi-annually, the Wakeboard World Championships return to South Korea for a second time after a successful run in Chucheon in 2009. Over 400 wakeboarders from over 80 countries will participate at the water stadium at Busan Hwamyeong Ecological Park competing for the individual men’s and women’s titles, as well as a team event. Current world champions Harley Clifford of Australia and Raimi Merritt of the US will be looking to retain their titles over the four-day event. www.iwwfwakeboard.com 12 HAPS_summer 2013

PLEASE NOTE: DATES FOR EVENTS ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE.

Events

WISH WE WERE THERE GREAT EVENTS HAPPENING ALL AROUND THE GLOBE. HERE’S A COUPLE WE WISH WE COULD GET TO.

HERMANUS WHALE FESTIVAL HERMANUS, SOUTH AFRICA, SEPTEMBER 20-24 The city of Hermanus in South Africa offers up a front-row view of the Cape Whale Route. The festival takes place during migration season with people flocking to the clifftops to catch a glimpse of the endangered southern right whale. www.whalefestival.co.za

66TH EDINBURGH INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL EDINBURGH, SCOTLAND, AUGUST 9-SEPTEMBER 1 The international fest follows on the heels of Edinburgh’s more progressive Fringe Festival and brings together the world’s best in classical music, theater, opera, dance and visual arts all in one spot. www.eif.co.uk

FIND US ON

THE WEB HERE www.busanhaps.com 2013 summer_ busanhaps.com 13

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WORD ON THE STREET

FAST FACTS ON A TYPICAL DAY IN BUSAN, THERE ARE

BUSAN PREMIUM OUTLETS SET TO OPEN The Busan Premium Outlets, a new outlet mall, is scheduled to open in late August or early September, according to recent media reports. The 50/50 joint venture of the Simon Property Group and Shinsegae brought the Premium Outlets concept of upscale, fashion-oriented outlet centers to Korea. The outlet will house 180 brand name stores with a total investment of 160 billion won, and will be located about a four-minute drive away from the Jangan interchange on the Busan-Ulsan Expressway, or about 23 km from Haeundae, 45 km from Ulsan and 90 km from Daegu. Not to be outdone, Lotte announced it would open its own premium outlet in the same county by 2015.

76 BIRTHS 54 DEATHS 55 MARRIAGES 21 DIVORCES 1,819 PEOPLE LEAVING THE CITY

TOUGHER ROAD LAWS TO COME INTO EFFECT

OVERHEARD

Start getting into the habit of buckling up even if you’re not driving, as passenger seat belts are becoming mandatory in South Korea starting in 2016. The government held a national policy coordination meeting in July, and subsequently announced the seat belt requirement and other comprehensive measures to reduce traffic fatalities. The current seat belt measure only applies to major highways. The government will also toughen drunk-driving laws from 2015. The legal blood alcohol limit for drivers will fall from 0.05 to 0.03. Failing a sobriety test will result in license suspension, but a blood-alcohol content at 0.06 or higher will result in a license being revoked. A government official said that the measures will hopefully reduce the number of traffic fatalities per every 10,000 cars by 30 percent.

“The majority of instructors at private military camps have no experience in leading students, especially in safety measures.” Jung Jin-ho, director of the Association of Youth Training Education Center, after five high school students at a military-style summer camp were swept away by a wave in Taean County, South Chungcheong in July.

“We’re lucky we have this many survivors.’’ San Francisco Mayor Ed Lee after the crash of Asiana flight 214 at San Francisco International Airport on July 6.

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Community & Living

CNN HIGHLIGHTS BUSAN The city of Busan was featured in July’s city destination edition on CNNGo, a monthly 30-minute show offering a unique take on global destinations. The filming, which took place in May, featured former Busan eFM radio host Petra Jung giving a taste of what it’s like to live in a port city by heading to the largest fish market in all of Korea; Bobby McGill, editor-in-chief of Haps Magazine, giving a historical tour of Geumjeong Mountain Fortress and Beomeo Temple; and photographer Min Ho-yun showing the spirit of Lotte Giants’ fans. Jay Song, owner of My Table Cafe in Marine City, shared her insight into the coffee craze in Korea, while musicians Violet Lea and Gino Brann finished off the episode giving a tour of the nightlife to experience the best local music in Korea’s second-largest city. You can see the video on the CNNGo site at travel.cnn.com

ALL ABOARD! Busan’s been seeing a sharp rise in Chinese cruise ship tourists since ramping up its efforts to become a top cruise destination in Northeast Asia. According to Busan and Gyeongnam Customs, the number of Chinese cruise tourists in the first half of 2013 was 94,000, which is over double last year’s figure of 44,000. The report shows that 52 percent of all cruise tourism in Busan is from China. Domestic cruise tourism, however, has decreased to 4,700 in the first-half of this year, which is approximately half last year’s figure of 10,000. This year, a total of 160 cruises are expected to visit, bringing about 210,000 tourists. 2013 summer_ busanhaps.com 15

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IN THE NEWS WON IS THICKER THAN WATER South Korea’s bottled water market is sneaky territory, according to a recent investigation by left-leaning newspaper The Hankyoreh. The publication investigated dozens of bottled water companies, including their natural sources and wholesale costs, and found exactly the kind of discrepancies one worries about when shelling out 1,000 won for a bottle: Pulmuwon’s Deep Water, which costs 860 won for a two-litre bottle, comes from the same source as Nestle’s Purelife (740 won) and Costco’s Kirkland Signature (650 won). They are literally the same thing. Further, many of the most common brands, such as Lotte’s Icis, Hite Jinro’s Natural Mineral Water and Puris, all come from anywhere between six to eight different water sources, calling into question the consistency of the water quality in comparison to the steadfast price. To their credit, independent water manufacturers Jeju Samdasoo and Deep Sea Water 1000K are each exclusively sourced from Jeju Island and Gangwon Province.

PROSECUTORS SEIZE THAT SON-OF-A-CHUN Chun Doo-hwan, Korea’s fifth president-slash-military-dictator who led the nation’s infamous Gwangju Massacre in 1980, has scarcely had pleasant relations with the Korean government since his reign ended in ‘88 and a supreme court sentenced him to death in ‘96. His sentence was later lessened to life in prison and a fine of over 220 billion won (US$197 million), of which he has paid roughly 53 billion, or not quite one quarter. Well, the government came a-knocking on July 16. Because Chun stopped making regular payments to his fine in 2003, Korean prosecutors walked into the now-82-year-old’s house, grabbed an extremely expensive rare painting along with several other valuables, seized the assets of his children and their companies, and said, effectively, “This is a start, but you still owe us over 150 million bucks.” 16 HAPS_summer 2013

NORTH KOREA’S SUGARCOATED MISSILES In mid-July, Panamanian officials spotted a Cuban ship headed for North Korea. Their first thought was, “It’s probably drugs.” So they boarded the ship and found—surprise, surprise—ballistic missiles, anti-aircraft systems and two fighter jets, all hidden beneath 10,000 tons of sugar. That’s roughly 2,200 adult elephants’ weight worth of sugar—meaning Cuba definitely did not want these weapons to be found, probably because UN sanctions prohibit weapons being sent to the secluded Korean state. Yet Cuba’s defence was that the machinery was five-years-old and obsolete, and was being sent to be repaired and returned to Cuba. This begs the question: Who sends complex and dangerous machinery to a country that’s barely advanced past the era of VHS cassette tapes?

Korea & World News

CELEBRITIES LOSE MILITARY PRIVILEGES The Korean military has recently scrapped the “entertainment division” of its armed forces, which allowed celebrities special privileges during their mandatory enlistment. The notoriously soft platform allowed military officials to basically look the other way whenever celebrities disappeared for four months out of a year to perform tours and boost military morale. The Korean public never bought it, even back when it was introduced in 1997. Of the 100+ celebrities who’ve passed through, many have made headlines, including PSY, who tried to dodge his service, and Rain, who just finished his 21 months after ditching a lot of them to date his actress girlfriend Kim Tae-hee. But the act that broke the system was done by stars Se7en and Sangchu, who were found using cell phones (not allowed) and taking extra nights off in Chuncheon (also illegal) to check into a massage parlor (definitely a no-no). The military plans to report them as AWOL.

TAXIS METERING DOWN The government announced in mid-June that the nation will lose 50,000 taxis over the next five years, in an effort to keep cabbies happy by stabilizing their wages. Cabbies, of course, are far from happy because the government is shelling out 13 million won to every license a cab company shreds (specifically targeting over-serviced metros) which means that the country will soon have 50,000 more men and women looking for new jobs. The taxi debate in South Korea has raged on for over a decade. According to a ministry-ordered study, the number of cabs has risen by over 20 percent since the mid-1990s, but the number of passengers per cab has dropped. That’s meant ever-rising fares and ever-less-satisfied drivers, who complain about a lack of benefits and demand the government recognize them as public transport, on par with buses and subways. Appeasing cabbies would anger the bus drivers, and keeping the status quo upsets drivers. 2013 summer_ busanhaps.com 17

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MATERIAL WORLD CLASS OF 55:

A LOOK AT FIVE OF THE BEST 55-INCH TVS ON THE KOREAN MARKET PLASMA OR LCD? When flat-panel televisions first hit the market more than a decade ago, plasma was the only option. But the rise of LCD TVs in recent years means that only three companies—LG, Panasonic, and Samsung—are still producing larger screen sizes and plasma-based 3D TVs. People’s love for LCD over plasma is simple: it offers a wider range of screen sizes, a very bright picture and greater energy efficiency. If you’re wanting to go large, though, plasma’s strengths are hard to ignore, with much deeper blacks, less bleeding of lighter parts into darker ones and better overall picture consistency. This is especially noticeable when watching fast-moving action such as sports. Plasma is also great for a crowd with its sharper picture from any angle. Haps has put together a list of five top TVs for your viewing pleasure.

LG GOOGLE TV LG is the sole TV maker in the world making sets with Google TV built-in. First introduced in the United States, the 2013 lineup of Google TVs is being released in Korea with an expected seven new models spread across two series. LG announced there will be an update to Jelly Bean in the third quarter of this year, an upgrade that will allow access to more apps originally designed to run on phones and tablets. The sets will also have a “3D Game Changer” that stimulates 3D effects with 2D games. On the hardware side, they feature a dual-core processor, QWERTY motion remote controls as well as an integrated mic for voice commands and voice search powered by Google.

SONY KDL QUANTUM DOT SERIES The KDL series features some of the best colors available on an LCD with deep blacks, excellent shadow details and gamma, all packed in a sleek design. Sony is the first to develop the technology, known as Quantum Dots, which theoretically enhances the number of colors an LCD can produce by using microscopic crystals that glow green, red or blue when stimulated by a light source. Whatever that means, the picture is stunning. Sadly, until a Japan-Korea FTA, you’re going to pay considerably more than the local makes, and the 55-inch KDL is gonna run you around 3.5 million won here on the peninsula.

SAMSUNG SERIES 8 SMART TV F8000 Dubbed as “beauty without borders”, last year’s version of this Series 8 set won several readers’ choice awards in the United States, and this year’s model, packed with 3D capabilities, a quad-core processor, four HDMI inputs, three USB inputs, a component input and an ethernet port, looks to be even better. The 55-inch beauty, which comes with voice technology, AllShare, motion control (throw away that remote if you want) and the upgraded Smart Hub 2.0, will set you back about 4 to 5 million. 18 HAPS_summer 2013

Gadgets & Gear

SAMSUNG CURVED OLED This is the latest and the greatest out there, and Samsung and LG are the only ones offering it so far. The curvature of the screen is designed to give an IMAX-like picture with all points of the screen equidistant from the viewer. The downside is that it requires direct viewing, so you and a select group of friends would have to huddle next to each other right in front of the screen to really enjoy the stunning picture that the Curved OLED offers. Plus, the set supports Samsungâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Evolution Kit technology, meaning you can continually upgrade to add more software features over the next few years. Depending upon the model, the Curved OLED will run you between 11 and 15 million won.

LG LA7400 LG has rolled out its penultimate LED for 2013, the LA7400, which features all of the latest buzzers and bells including new connectivity and easy search options. The set features natural language voice control via the new Magic Motion remote which allows you to control TV functions with the wave of a finger. (Imagine: a super-smart, high-tech Clapper.) The LA7400 features an edge-lit LED with dimming, and comes with LGâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Cinema 3D technology, complete with lightweight, battery-free glasses to deliver a great 3D experience for movies, TV shows and gaming. You can enjoy the viewing experience for upwards of 3 million won. 2013 summer_ busanhaps.com 19

H Guide

STYLE FILES

BLAME IT ON BECKHAM Most fashion icons have a positive influence on their followers, but fashion and handbag designer Victoria “Posh” Beckham is being blamed for instilling bad habits in her fans. Health professionals have recently coined a term referring to the effect of carrying of large, heavy handbags in the crook of one’s elbow: “Poshitis”. “Women may think that they are following a catwalk trend, but they are storing up trouble,” physiotherapist Sammy Margos told the Sunday Express. “We have seen a huge increase in shoulder and neck problems and killer heels can add to the pressure on posture.” So, if you wanna be like Posh Spice, you’re gonna get torn muscles and inflamed shoulder tendons… not a good look. Credit: express.co.uk

KOREAN FAST FASHION EXPANDS ABROAD International retailers such as Zara, H&M, Forever21 and Uniqlo have championed the fast fashion philosophy of affordable quality clothes straight off the catwalks of Fashion Week. Most recently, South Korean retail giant E Land Group has jumped on the bandwagon with its women’s clothing brand MIXXO. The group’s strategy is to design and manufacture clothing items in line with the latest trends, which are also tailored to fit the needs and physiques of Asian consumers. This year they’ve expanded into Japan and China, and have signed on K-pop princesses After School to add more star power to the brand. Samsung Cheil Industries is preparing to join the global fast fashion trend next year by opening its first overseas 8 Seconds store in China. Credit: reuters.com

FLIP-FLOP FAUX PAS It’s not exactly a news flash, but this heat serves as a timely reminder to be kind to your feet, and upgrade your flipflops. Apart from the obvious dangers of blisters, stubbed toes, sunburn and general lack of protection offered by this summer staple, your favorites could be causing more serious damage. “The feet are the foundation of your whole body. This is the base of the skeleton,” says Jackie Sutera, a podiatrist in New York City. “It’s a domino effect... the rest of your joints and bones have to compensate.” If you can’t survive summer without them, go for something with some arch support and opt for leather over rubber; your Brazilian gotos might be harboring all kinds of bacterial nastiness. Credit: huffpost.com 20 HAPS_summer 2013

CHONGJIN: NORTH KOREA’S FASHION CAPITAL Conservative Pyongyang may be the capital, but the North Korean trade city of Chongjin is where fashion has some freedom. Recent interviews with North Korean refugees have given insight into some of the cultural and societal changes taking place within the isolated nation. Bae Jin-ah, a refugee from Pyongyang, passed through Chongjin on her escape from the DPRK and was delighted when she saw locals wearing brightly colored foreign clothing. “The capital city isn’t very trendy,” says Oh Mi-sook, a former Chongjin resident. “In North Korea, Chongjin is the city that is most sensitive to fashion... Security officers aren’t very strict about the way people dress. The trend of wearing skinny jeans also started in Chongjin. Among the merchandise that comes in from Japan through the port of Chongjin, you can find lots of items that show the latest styles from Japan and South Korea.”

Out & About

COOL SHADES FOR HOT SUMMER DAYS This summer’s sunglass trends are a step back in time, no matter which decade you were born in. Retro, vintage, ‘80s, ‘90s; take your pick of the styles and be bold with your color choice. Haps shopping tips: underground stores, street stalls and markets have crazy-cheap sunglasses, most range around 5,000 to 10,000 won. Online: ASOS.com has a range of prices, and offers free shipping and returns on international orders with no minimum purchase requirement. Whether you want to splurge or save, summer 2013 is all about making a statement.

CLUBMASTER $$: French Connection

MIRRORED $$: Oakley

EMBELLISHED $: Asos

2013 summer_ busanhaps.com 21

5 HInside

STORY

Questions:

Photographer Simon Bond

By Bobby

McGill Photography By Simon Bond

Last September, Simon Bond released his book, Simple Scene, Sensational Shot, which led him to quit his day job and pursue photography full-time. Originally from the UK, the 35-year-old studied biochemistry at the University of London’s King’s College before settling down in Suncheon with his wife Ja-young. Haps recently talked with Bond about his life, his work and what advice he’d give to aspiring photographers.

ing back then, and his enthusiasm made me take photography more seriously. I admire a lot of established photographers but wasn’t really affected by them. For me, I think the methodical approach from my science background was what had the greatest effect on my work. In this sense, I see myself in the same light as the punk and post-punk era musicians who didn’t look to previous musicians for influence, but who brought their background from other fields into their music.

Last year you released your book, Simple Scene, Sensational Shot, to positive reviews. As camera technology beWhen I wrote this book, I didn’t want people What have you been workcomes more sophisticated, ing on lately? what do you think will allow to get bogged down in the technical aspects Having published my first photographic artists such as book last year, I decided to of photography; rather, I wanted them to pick yourself to stand out from make photography my fullus mortals? those things up in a natural process as they time profession. In the last As always, it’s about the year, I’ve been travelling aro- learned about various photography techniques. imagination, not the technolund Asia to build on my travel ogy. It’s easy to become techphotography portfolio. While travelling, I’ve had several articles nically sound and to understand the formula for good composipublished in in-flight magazines, with the most interesting sto- tion in a photo. It’s not always easy to find inspiration, of course, ry being about the sulfur miners of Ijen in Indonesia. It’s also but with my refraction series I managed to develop a style that an ambition to publish books in the future on subjects such is distinctly my own, and that allowed me to stand out from the as night photography and creativity in photography. crowd. That has led to my work being published in newspapers back in the UK, and I even had a feature on my work by an AmerHow did you first become interested in photography? Did ican weatherman for ABC7. anyone inspire you when you started out? I became interested in photography when I was 15, though at The intro to Simple Scene, Sensational Shot on Amazon this age I had always thought of photography as a pastime. At tells that your book offers a “wealth of techniques and cre this age, the most influential person on me was my teacher, a ative approaches will open your eyes to the beauty that man named Mr. Ponsford. He liked a lot of the photos I was tak- surrounds you.” Can you talk about that a little more? 22 HAPS_summer 2013

When I wrote this book, I didn’t want people to get bogged down in the technical aspects of photography; rather, I wanted them to pick those things up in a natural process as they learned about various photography techniques. In this way I envisioned photography as a visual language, with the technical aspects being the “grammar”. The book shows through a series of case studies the types of photos I might take in places like a building site or the countryside. This is to show people that locations have many different types of photos. The next step is to look at some photographic techniques such as long exposure or silhouettes that can be applied to give eye-catching photos. Finally, the book talks about taking your camera out in the field to get these photos for yourself. Are there other books that you would recommend to Haps readers looking to further develop their photography skills? The best advice I can give to readers is to get out and shoot, though it’s always good to study as well. Another photographer with the same publisher as mine makes some great books, his name is Michael Freeman. The other types of books I’d recommend are those produced by National Geographic or Lonely Planet, which have many inspiring photos that could give you an idea for your own photo.

You can see more of Simon Bond’s work at his website, www.simonbondphotography.com

FIVE TIPS 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

FOR GREAT PHOTOS

If you have the choice between spending money on travel or buying expensive new gear, the choice is to travel. Meet up with other photographers and learn from them. Don’t emulate other people’s images; be inspired by them and make something unique. Join online photography communities such as Flickr, 500px or photography-related Facebook groups. Learn to give and receive feedback on your photos and those of other members. Step out of your comfort zone and try new styles of photography. As with everything else in life, there is always something new to learn. 2013 summer_ busanhaps.com 23

HSocial

ISSUE

Hot Hot K-pop: Sizzling it up with more provocative K-pop By James

Turnbull

Summer’s heating up outside and on-screen, where K-pop’s girl groups have been shedding even more clothes than normal. The public debate has reached new heights, with critics pointing to excessive female objectification. But, as James Turnbull points out, the controversy is nothing new. K-pop girl group After School swinging around stripper poles, grabbing their crotches and singing wet and topless in “First Love”? Dal Shabet ripping their skirts open to reveal skin tight pants for “Look At My Legs”? Long, lingering closeups of BIKINY’s breasts and panties for “Please Accept Me”? These examples are just a small sampling of what you can see on Korean music channels this summer, in what has widely been described as an unprecedented, unacceptable pornification of K-pop. Predictably, many netizens have been slut-shaming the girl groups involved, whereas more discerning critics have generally complained of their excessive sexual objectification, and/ or portrayed them as victims of their management companies. Most notably, Lee Seung-chul, a Korean singer with 27 years in the industry, tweeted that it was wrong to promote girl groups by making them wear revealing costumes. Of course, it is impossible to give justice to the range and depth of critics’ opinions here, who do have valid concerns. However, many are also so focused on all the female flesh on display that they are failing to see the bigger picture. Should you come across any of their alarmist headlines this summer, here are three ways to bring a healthy dose of realism to the discussion. First, note that the controversy is nothing new. Because not only does barely a month go by when the Ministry of Gender Equality and Family doesn’t ban songs or music videos, but as recently as the winter edition of Haps, I discussed many other bawdy examples, including “Bloom” by Ga-in, which featured masturbation. In particular, just over two years ago, there was similar hang-wringing over one episode of KBS’s Music 24 HAPS_summer 2013

Bank, which featured pelvic thrusts from RaNia and the Brave Girls, as well as 4Minute’s notorious “Wide Leg Spread Dance” for “Mirror Mirror”. It is true that there have been more cases than normal recently, with management companies of boy bands openly wondering how their employees can compete for attention. But that is precisely the point: with a constant glut of new groups debuting, legal downloads costing less than a tenth of their iTunes counterparts, and an ensuing overdependence on commercial endorsements, the Korean music industry has long been predicated on using sex—and anticipated bans—to keep groups in the public eye. Mirroring developments in the Korean movie industry, where financial problems have also prompted a recent, rapid sexing

Lee Seung-chul, a Korean singer with 27 years in the industry, tweeted that it was wrong to promote girl groups by making them wear revealing costumes. up of content (see October’s Haps), it is disingenuous to suggest that what we’re seeing now is anything unusual. Moreover, trends will only continue with the recent weakening of the Yen, which has already dealt a huge blow to profits for Korean music in Japan. Second, automatically screaming the “o” word in response to some skin often belies a fundamental misunderstanding of the

CLOCKWISE FROM THE LEFT: DAL SHABET, YURA, AFTER SCHOOL

concept. Because musical ability, sexy dances and sexier costumes are not mutually exclusive, and it is objectifying in itself to reduce talented musicians to only the latter. That is not to say that sex isn’t overused in K-pop to disguise a lack of talent, and that we shouldn’t call that out accordingly. But when sexual attractiveness adds to and/or is a fundamental part of a performance, yet is criticized nevertheless, then perhaps it’s more sex itself that the detractors have a problem with. Also, arguably with strong and confident women, too, for in such cases it’s very difficult to see them as coerced in any way, which is the most important criteria for judging whether someone is being negatively objectified or not. In addition to Ga-in, whose masturbation scene was not at all out of place in a rare song about female sexual awakening, one example from this summer is ‘Baddest Female’ CL of 2NE1, who was recently widely criticized for wearing a swimsuit onstage. Unlike UEE of After School, however, who felt she had no choice but to agree to her CEO’s plan for six months of painful pole-dance training for “First Love”, CL was not at all pressured to wear her outfit, and earlier rejected YG Entertainment’s demand that she receive cosmetic surgery before she debuted. What’s more, YG completely removed those clauses in their subsequent contracts for new trainees, unlike the vast majority of management companies that retain them. Ergo, while the K-pop industry is certainly extremely exploitative overall, and replete with examples of coercion that do deserve to be highlighted, a third factor to take into consideration is that not all management companies are the same. Also, as Lee Hark-joon noted, director of the documentary Nine Muses

of Star Empire, as girl group members become more successful and “adjust to the music industry, they start composing their own songs and have more of a voice in their concept. In the documentary, the girls are told by managers: ‘If you become a star, your opinion is law. If you think you are treated unfairly, become a star.’ What the manager said is cruel, but it shows a reality.” In a summer that, on the one hand, has already seen its firstever condom commercial and a high-profile announcement of an (illegal) gay wedding, and on the other hand has brought in the revelation that 54 percent of South Gyeongsang Province police think that “that women who wear revealing clothing are somehow culpable in any attacks on them,” people deserve a more sophisticated, less reactionary discussion of sex in K-pop from their cultural gatekeepers. By all means, they should call a spade a spade. But, to apply what sociologist Lisa Wade wrote about Beyoncé, on those occasions when a K-pop female singer’s “performance—along with those of her bandmates and fellow dancers and singers— embodie[s] strength and confidence; the pleasure of being comfortable in one’s own skin and the ability to use your body to tell a story; and the power that comes from being admired for the talents you’ve worked so hard to cultivate,” then it’s difficult to only see a sex object, and/or plausibly claim that it’s simply pornography. This summer, please take a moment to consider why so many do. James Turnbull is a writer and public speaker on Korean feminism, sexuality and pop culture. He can be found at thegrandnarrative.com 2013 summer_ busanhaps.com 25

HCover STORY

SHARKY’S CAJUN SEASONED SALMON FILLET AND HOPCAT AMBER ALE. PHOTOGRAPHY BY BEN WELLER

26 HAPS_summer 2013

Busan’s Better Brews By Anthony

Velasquez

Korea is finally joining the rest of the world in its love for great beer. Anthony Velasquez looks at the trend towards better beer and offers up some picks on where and what to get. If you were thirsty for a draft beer as little as four years ago, you were forced to choose between domestically-produced Cass, Hite, OB and little else. While quality imported beer in the bottle wasn’t much of a problem, if you didn’t mind the price, the selection of draft was another story. Andy Lee, a 20-year veteran of the beer industry and owner of an importing company that supplies Big Rock beer from Alberta, Canada, explains that upstarts in the Korean beer market were only recently freed up to give consumers more options. “When I started in the industry, in 1993, taxes on imported beer and whiskey were 150 percent,” Lee said. “In 2006, the taxes came down to 72 percent.”

a sudden, previously tariff-strapped importers could ply their craft in the Korean market. Another major contribution to the burgeoning availability of great beer in Korea is Sung Lee, the president and founder of Brewmasters International, a beer import company that brings in popular brands from Lost Coast Brewery, Anderson Valley Brewing Company, Rogue Ales and some complex, highly sought-after Belgian ales. “I would make regular trips to Korea to visit the in-laws and it drove me up the wall not being able to drink a good beer,” said Lee, who was born in Incheon but moved to New York. “That’s why I founded Brewmasters.” Recently, a study by domestic store chain Lotte Mart reported A study by domestic store chain Lotte Mart that imported beer sales increased 41 percent since this time last summer, and that imported beer outsold wine for the first reported that imported beer sales increased 41 time. Other industry experts have taken note of the rising depercent since this time last summer, and that mand for imported beer over the last decade, and they agree: this isn’t just a fad. imported beer outsold wine for the first time. Much of the change in Koreans’ shift to higher-end beer can be attributed to rising incomes and the 14 million Koreans who anAccording to Wayne Gold, co-owner of The Wolfhound Irish nually travel abroad and have access to a variety of beer. Pubs in Seoul and in Busan, only two companies owned all KoSampling the local scene here in Busan, Wayne Gold said that rean brands until recently. This duopoly limited both the selec- 60-70 percent of Koreans are reaching for a “kind,” well-crafted tion and the channels for craft beers to get to market. microbrew. Stephane Turcotte, brewer and owner of Galmegi “The law required a minimum production of about 100,000 li- Brewing Company in Gwangalli, has seen a similar trend. ters,” Gold explained. “So it was impossible for the microbrews “On weeknights, 60 percent of our guests are Korean, mostly and craft beers to enter the market.” female, and mostly prefer our India Pale Ale,” said Turcotte. The watershed moment came two-and-a-half years ago, With this rising trend in mind, we’ll now offer seven bars and when the brew limit law changed. Along with notice- pubs that offer either their own distinct microbrewed craft able shifts brought on by free trade agreements and lower beers or serve the best draft in Busan. Also remember that all tariffs on imported beers, microbrewed beers, such as for- serve great pub grub, which exemplifies how the right beer can eign-owned Craftworks in Seoul, started popping up. All of enhance the right dish. 2013 summer_ busanhaps.com 27

Hangover Pub (Seomyeon)

From Chef Vito, who arguably serves Busan’s best handmade pasta at his eponymous restaurant, comes this new cozy public free house. Classically designed, it’s a welcome addition to the Seomyeon scene. The selection is small, but smartly chosen: Lost Coast Brewery’s Indica IPA is extra-hoppy, fragrant, crisp and ends on a pleasantly bitter finish. It’s the perfect foil for Hangover’s excellent fish and chips, which is made from local cod in a dark beer/egg white meringue batter over a basket of perfectly seasoned, extra-crispy shoestrings. Photos by Alexandra Don

Galmegi Brewing Company (Gwangalli)

Stephane Turcotte and partners handcraft their excellent beers in small batches, and Galmegi has become the epicenter for PUB (Pusan Union of Homebrewers). Depending on availability, they offer up to five original brews in a comfortable setting with a mixed crowd and friendly vibe. While the dry-hopped, coldconditioned, bitter yet balanced IPA is the most popular, the amber ale pairs well with the earthy flavors of the funghi pizza topped with imported truffle oil. Also, Galmegi and PUB will be presenting a Summer Beer Festival on August 24 where guests can sample six or more distinct homebrews including a Ginseng Pale Ale, Ginger Beer and an exciting Saison Belgian Farmhouse Ale. Photos by Ben Weller. 28 HAPS_summer 2013

Tap & Tapas/TBR (Haeundae)

T&T/TBR serves seven beers on tap and five by the bottle. Beverage director Jerome Park cleans the lines and the taps, and checks the temperature daily to ensure that every beer is optimally served. This gastropub, with its Spanish/Mediterranean menu, presents the finest imported quality ingredients to its urbane style. One unique pairing to enjoy is the chorizo cazuera with a Guinness. The roasted, smoky notes of Guinness match the smokiness of Iberico chorizo and the creaminess of the body compliment the acid of tomato sauce. Also, Paulaner Hefeweizen brings citrus and tropical flavors to their delicious seafood dishes. Photos courtesy of Tap & Tapas/TBR.

The Wolfhound Irish Pub (Haeundae)

With 11 beers on tap and nine available by the bottle, Wolfhound offers the widest selection of kind brews in Haeundae. One that is exclusively offered here is the Jeju Tangerine IPA from Reilly’s Brewing Company crafted in Seoul. The tangerine flavor doesn’t overpower the hoppy profile, but instead compliments with notes of orange peel on the nose, a little orange zest on the finish. One very well-matched pairing is the curry chips with Lost Coast’s Great White. This summer refresher with its natural citrus notes and coriander is killer with potato wedges topped with curried gravy. Photos by Russell McConnell.

2013 summer_ busanhaps.com 29

Sharky’s Gwangan (Gwangalli)

Sharky’s on Gwangalli Beach offers 14 beers on tap and seven choice selections featuring the Lost Coast Brewery and Anderson Valley beers. Among the drafts, two are exclusively found here: Hopcat Amber Ale and Anderson Valley’s Summer Solstice. The Hopcat, which is lighter and fresher than most ambers balancing the hops and malt, is a nice pairing with Chef/Pastor Caleb’s perfectly temped to medium, moist cajun seasoned salmon fillet. Another great pairing is the uniquely flavored McNally’s Extra Ale, a strong Irish Red Ale replete with notes of brown spices that match well with Sharky’s BBQ sauce. Photos by Ben Weller.

Hurshimchung Brau (Oncheonjang)

This German beer hall is the most unique watering hole in Busan. Where else do you get a six-piece coed Ukrainian band covering Korean classics or The Bangles to scores of ajummas getting down? Brewmaster Choi Dong-jun uses all the equipment and ingredients imported from Germany to make his traditional brews crafted on-site. The pilsner is unfiltered and unpasteurized, making it fresh and popular, especially in the outdoor beer garden. For pairing, Choi’s smooth, flavorful dunkel washes down well with the roasted German Schweinehaxen (ham hock). Also, don’t forget their Oktoberfest, usually in midSeptember, an event not to be missed. Photos by Ben Weller. 30 HAPS_summer 2013

TRADITIONAL GERMAN FARE AT HURSHIMCHUNG BRAU. PHOTOGRAPHY BY BEN WELLER.

2013 summer_ busanhaps.com 31

Eva’s Ticket (KSU)

The bar is anchored by its sleek, modern-designed refrigerated storage, among one of only eight in the country. Eva’s Ticket also offers 13 taps plus 11 bottle selections. Also, Chef Mutt’s extensive menu of delicious appetizers, salads, pizza, sandwiches and entrees make it hard to choose. The Paulaner Dunkel, a dark lager that falls in between an amber and porter, brings roasted malt flavors without the heaviness that matches well with the mushroom mozzarella burger, the poutine topped with mozzarella and homemade gravy, or Mutt’s chicken fried chicken. Photos by Russell McConnell.

IMPORTED BOTTLES TO SAVOR

Fuller’s London Pride Premium Ale (9,500 won at Hangover Pub, 4.7 percent ABV): This traditional ale, brewed along the Thames, achieves its distinction for storing in casks and kegs which contributes to its roundness of malt and hops that makes it flavorful, yet smooth. Duchesse de Bourgogne Flanders Red Ale (12,000 won at Galmegi Brewing Company, 6 percent ABV): One of those beers that brewers and aficionados fetishly adore. This oak-casked, naturally sour Belgian ale looks dark and heavy but is actually light in body with its nose of balsamic and loaded with briny, pickled cherry flavors. 32 HAPS_summer 2013

Delirium Tremens (12,000 won at HQ, 8.5 percent ABV): A special Strong Pale Ale from Belgium, it is acclaimed the world over for its golden color, fragrant, flowery nose and notes of tangerine, pear, dried apricot, malted barley, hops and spice to a complex finish. Barney Flats Oatmeal Stout (8,000 won at Sharky’s Gwangan, 5.8 percent ABV): From Anderson Valley, one of the most popular and celebrated American craft breweries, the carbonation of the Barney Flats perfectly lifts up the notes of coffee, toast and mocha, making it rich, dark and balanced. Monteith’s Summer Ale (8,000 won at Beached, 5 percent ABV): While Beached offers almost the full lineup of New Zealand’s finest beers, this malty, ginger-inflected summer ale is now offered yearround from a 150-year-old Kiwi brewing tradition. It is certainly one to try while enjoying beautiful Gwangalli.

Homebrewing in Korea By Stephane

Turcotte

So, you’ve had enough of the local swill, and you’re ready to make your own. What’s next? Actually, brewing your own beer at home is easier than you might think. It just requires a little space, some patience and good sanitation. First, you’ll need some of the tools of the trade. The most basic setup of equipment needed is as follows: • 1 LARGE POT (can be found at any market for around 30,000 won) • FERMENTING BUCKET (online at beerschool.co.kr, goodbeer.co.kr, or winekit.co.kr) • BREWING INGREDIENTS (available on beerschool.co.kr or goodbeer.co.kr) • BOTTLES (on recycling day, grab all of your neighbors’ empties!) Note: For more advanced equipment, see homebrewkorea.com and have a look at the forums. A lot of things can be done with a little determination. Making beer involves boiling up a mixture of sugars and water, adding hops, cooling, and adding yeast. The sugar comes from malted barley and can be bought in cans of extract or extracted from the grain yourself. On your brew day, boil up your sugar water (known as “wort”) and then let it cool. Pour the cooled wort into your fermenting bucket and add your yeast. Let your brew sit for about two weeks before bottling. Note: Ales should be fermented at between 20 and 22 degrees Celsius, so Korean summers are not great for brewing. Most homebrewers take a break during the sweltering summer months. The other important thing to remember is cleanliness. Any unwanted bacteria can cause off-flavors or infections. To wash all of your brewing equipment, be sure to use oxyclean, a detergent that’s commonly available in supermarkets. (After cleaning, don’t forget to rinse.) The next step is sanitization. In Korea, the easiest option is to obtain Povodone, an iodine solution. It is available at all pharmacies and can be mixed with water at a ratio of 5ml per 4L of water. This is a great no-rinse sanitizer. Simply swirl or spray the solution onto your equipment and allow it to sit in contact for a few minutes before pouring off. For an in-depth guide on brewing techniques and recipes, look at howtobrew.com, John Palmer’s extensive guide takes you step by step through your first brew. Note: Other useful resources include byo.com, beersmith.com, homebrewtalk.com and morebeer.com, the latter of which even offers international shipping to Korea. Happy brewing! Stephane Turcotte is the owner of Galmegi Brewing Company. 2013 summer_ busanhaps.com 33

HSports

TALK

My KBO By Jeff

Liebsch

From major league scouts to ESPN, Tacoma, Washington-based Dan Kurtz has become the source for English coverage of Korean baseball. Back in 2003, while teaching English and studying Korean at Yonsei University in Seoul, Korean-American adoptee Dan Kurtz began MyKBO.net, an English-language website dedicated to the Korean Baseball Organization. What started as a message board for Western fans to discuss the league and find out basic info has evolved into the dominant source for Korean baseball news not only for fans, but also scouts and the international media. Kurtz has since built the site to feature statistics, schedules, interviews and podcasts. He’s also the man responsible for uploading the now-famous video of South Korean gymnast Shin Soo-ji’s ridiculous Gumby-esque opening pitch at a DoosanSamsung game, which went viral and garnered nearly 11 million views in its first week before reaching major media outlets like CBS Sports and CNN. Haps caught up with Kurtz via email about his thoughts on the league, the Shane Youman/Kim Tae-kyun controversy and his take on the Lotte Giants. Has the KBO reached out to you, or do you hope to have any affiliation with them in the future? I have never been contacted by the KBO for anything since the founding of MyKBO. I am always open to any relationship with the KBO. But until that day comes, I will continue running MyKBO on my own with no league affiliation. 34 HAPS_summer 2013

You were the primary person responsible for making the Shin Soo-ji opening pitch video go viral. Did you expect that kind of reaction? Have you heard from her representatives or from her about posting it? I did not expect that sort of reaction to the video at all. To be fair, a Naver video link was originally posted on Reddit, but because not everyone can play videos from Naver, I simply uploaded the video to YouTube, added an English description and sent it out to two people in the sports web media (Yahoo’s Big League Stew and Deadspin). After those two sites posted up the video, it became a viral sensation and it was shown everywhere from MLB Network to CNN to Finnish TV to being featured on YouTube’s front page. I have not been in contact with Shin Soo-ji personally, but have talked with her marketing agency in Korea. They thanked me for uploading the video and helping to get Shin Soo-ji recognized across the world. After the Shane Youman/Kim Tae-kyun incident, were you disappointed to find out the neither Lotte or Kim Tae-kyun really addressed the issues of racism and basically swept it under the rug? I was extremely disappointed that Kim Tae-kyun did not apologize or even talk to Shane when the two teams played each other shortly after the controversy came about. Whether Kim thought his remarks were taken out of context or not, talking

to Shane in person, even with the help of a translator, would’ve been the right thing to do, in my opinion. The issue came up in the media and thus I think Kim at least owed an explanation to Shane in person. I was further disappointed that Lotte did not even address or talk about this with Shane after it became a story in the press. Why not ask him about the situation and see if he has any comments or suggestions for the team or league? Speaking of the league, why did they not step in and try to use this as a learning point for their players (both Korean and foreign)? I think it could’ve started some great dialogue between players, officials and even fans, and think it would be a great off-season workshop for players and league officials to attend. What do you think of Lotte’s management losing three of their best players to free agency over the past two years? Lotte’s handling of some of their top players the past few seasons has been interesting. They had success by having guys such as Lee Dae-ho, Hong Sung-heon, and Kim Joo-chan in the lineup. Why change that? The loss of those bats is one of the reasons why Lotte is currently the league worst in team batting average. I think the loss of some of these big names is also one of the reasons why fans are not turning out to Sajik as they once did. If Lotte had maybe opened up their wallets a little more, Dae-ho and others may still be hitting home runs out of Sajik for the Giants. When Lotte is winning and Sajik is sold out, the KBO as a league benefits. Who do you see winning the title this year? Will Samsung win their third in a row or does anyone else have a chance? The preseason favorite this year was the KIA Tigers, but so far they’ve had trouble staying consistent. Samsung’s just been doing what they’ve been doing the past few seasons, and that’s winning. Nexen has been a pleasant surprise this year. They started off well last season too, but sputtered in the second half of the season. It will be interesting to see if Nexen is able to continue winning throughout the entire KBO season. But with all that said, I still think the Samsung Lions are the team to beat in 2013. You can check out MyKBO at www.MyKBO.net or follow him on Twitter at twitter.com/MyKBO

SUMMER SCHEDULE TUES, AUGUST 14 - SK SUN, AUGUST 26 - DOOSAN FRI, AUGUST 31 - LG WED, AUGUST 15 - SK SAT, SEPT 1 - LG THUR, AUGUST 16 - SK SUN, SEPT 2 - LG FRI, AUGUST 17 - NEXEN TUES, SEPT 4 - SK SAT, AUGUST 18 - NEXEN SUN, AUGUST 19 - NEXEN THUR, SEPT 6 - DOOSAN SAT, SEPT 8 - HANWHA FRI, AUGUST 24 - DOOSAN SUN, SEPT 9 - LG SAT, AUGUST 25 - DOOSAN

BUSAN IPARK SCHEDULE SAT, AUGUST 3 - GYEONGNAM, 7 P.M. SUN, AUGUST 18 - ULSAN, 7 P.M. WED, AUGUST 28 - JEJU, 7:30 P.M.

2013 summer_ busanhaps.com 35

HTravel INTERNATIONAL

Singapore:

The Wild Crab Chase Story and Photography By Michael

Fraiman

Singapore is known for many things: gorgeous parks, sophisticated architecture, polite citizens and a globally unique dish known as chili crab. Experiencing the whole package is costly enough, but finding it in the first place is a whole other challenge. Singapore’s most popular dish is arguably the chili crab, an expensive meal in a country perhaps best known for being expensive. It’s a hefty mud crab plucked apart and prepared in a true blend of Chinese and Indian styles, smothered in a curryand cumin-based tomato chili sauce, mixed with beaten eggs and topped with cilantro and a bowl of rice. The whole thing basically screams of Singapore. We were sitting in an Internet cafe near the train station at Johor Bahru, Malaysia, about spitting distance from the city-state. We didn’t have much time, but assumed that Googling “best chili crabs singapore” would yield results—namely the TripAdvisor post ranked third from the top wherein one user suggested Kim’s Cuisine on Beach Road, which had allegedly won numerous accolades. We missed that the post was dated September 13, 2005. Not only does Kim’s Cuisine definitely not exist, but what does exist there isn’t even a seafood restaurant. The owner of whatever pork joint now resides at 101 Beach Road is a slender ChineseSingaporean with early wrinkles and a blue apron. He tried to be helpful. “Go straight,” he told us, pointing back in the direction we came from, “and at the end of the street, there is chili crab.” Hopeful, we trod past the multicoloured colonial-era buildings and found another Chinese restaurant. “We’re looking for chili crab,” I tried again. But the woman there shook her head. She pointed left, down a small alley and at a wide blue-bannered 36 HAPS_summer 2013

diner. “There,” she said. “That’s a seafood restaurant. They’ll have it there.” To detail our entire wild crab chase would be as obnoxious now as it was then; suffice it to say that the Chinese restaurant lady was wrong, and the guy from the next diner was wrong, and every one of the restaurant owners we spoke to after that were wrong, which gave us some cause for panic, because our flight was now four hours away and we were getting very, very hungry. Our chili crab hunt was to be the last thing we did in Singapore. We spent most of three unfortunately rainy days in the city’s gorgeous and massive museums and libraries, basking in a tsunami of information, recognizing that we’d soon forget more than half the facts before us but nevertheless trying to educate ourselves by some sort of travel-induced osmosis. The buildings are, anyway, incomparably sophisticated; the National Library for example is made up of two elegant glass towers drowned in lush green trees. The National Museum is a massive and manypillared mansion in a picturesque field, complete with futuristic outdoor escalators unnecessarily moving citizens up and down short hills. We settled on seeing the “real” Singapore by strategically find-

Suffice it to say that every one of the restaurant owners we spoke to was wrong, which gave us some cause for panic, because our flight was now four hours away and we were getting very, very hungry.

that, okay, yes, maybe she’s right, it is probably a seafood restaurant. Any skepticism we had about the mostly empty little spot, called Maggie Thai and Chinese Restaurant, was squashed by the relief that on their menu was a photo of the elusive chili crab, doused in its signature red sauce. Twenty Singaporean dollars for one; $36 for two. We took the deal: one chili and one Thai vermicelli crab, accompanied by cold Thai tea and fresh longan juice, a sweet drink made from crushed Southeast Asian fruits the size of chestnuts. When the crabs arrived, the presentation did not disappoint. The thick sauce looked spicier than it really was, with particles of red and yellow mingling with miscellaneous bits of whiteness, either egg or very mushy crab flesh. We were given every conceivable utensil—chopsticks, knives, forks, spoons—and gunked up all of them before realizing that our fingers worked best. We quickly turned to the Thai vermicelli, slathered in a muddy brown paste and covered in green onions and glass noodles. We were at a total loss as to how to eat the noodles, our chopsticks now filthy. So we savagely ripped apart the shells and sucked out crab meat like a pair of neanderthals, licking noodle sauce from our fingertips and relishing each tender bite in satisfaction. It was very gross and probably unpleasant for the people sitting next to us. When we finished, an hour later, we both sat there, bloated and contemplative, quietly basking in the sadness that comes with the end of a truly excellent travel meal. Who knows when, if ever, we’ll be back in Singapore? Or be able to shell out 40 bucks for dinner? But this is how travel taunts us: it shows us something we’ve never seen, heard or tasted before, makes us curse and work for it, only to leave us wanting more.

ing a budget hotel near Geylang Road, known for prostitutes and cheap Chinese food. But rather than stay there for our last supper, we decided on the mythical Kim’s Cuisine, which had obviously not worked, and was now cause for some distress. That is, until my girlfriend pointed out... “Isn’t that a seafood restaurant over there?” ...which I dismissed automatically, based on the day’s record and the fact that there were no fish tanks out front, which I’d become accustomed to in East Asia. “Are you sure?” she pressed, which made me turn and notice what I’d failed to notice before: that the walls inside were painted with murals of dolphins, turtles and an octopus, signifying 2013 summer_ busanhaps.com 37

H Travel DOMESTIC

Eonyang Amethyst Cave Land: The Strangest Place You’ve Never Seen Story and Photography by Jessica

Steele

Just outside of Ulsan, locals took an old amethyst mine and turned it into something totally unique. Learn not just about mining, but about ancient Egypt, dragons and Dokdo, too. If you want a glitzy and polished tourist attraction, or even one injected with a modicum of sense, this is not the destination for you. If, on the other hand, you like your tourism weird, tacky and more than a little misguided, you’ve come to the right place. For those of us living it up in Busan and Seoul, it’s easy to dismiss rural South Korea as a middle-of-nowhere with nothing interesting to offer. This is an unfortunate misconception. Some of Korea’s strangest and most stunningly beautiful attractions lie waiting in the countryside—you just never knew they existed. Case in point: Amethyst Cave Land, located in the rural Eonyang-eup, just outside of Ulsan. It’s a park containing—you guessed it—a former amethyst mine lumped together with other random novelties such as bumper cars, a Viking ride and a petting zoo. Inside, things get weirder. Apparently this beautiful and onceprosperous amethyst mine was not interesting enough on its own, so the locals jazzed it up with neon lights and theme halls. Some highlights include an exhibit on the mummies of ancient Egypt and one on life in the mines (although it more closely resembles life after death), giant dragon murals, and some large scale models of Dokdo and Gyeongju’s Seokguram Grotto. If that’s not enough to tickle your fancy, you can also catch an acrobatics and contortionist show inside the cave twice daily. When I visited, a senior citizens’ tour group was hosting a soju-fueled dance party and invited me to join, but sadly I cannot promise that you will be so lucky. If you miss out on those events, console yourself with the adventure boat tour. A dizzy38 HAPS_summer 2013

ing motorized raft ride along an underground river and waterfall with a stoic ajjeoshi is worth the extra 5,000 won, if only for the bragging rights. Although you won’t see that much of the precious purple gemstone at Amethyst Cave Land, you will leave with memories that will haunt/last you for a lifetime. The complete absence of any foreign language signage only adds to the cavern’s abundant mystery and the cool, damp atmosphere provides relief against the peninsula’s hot summers. Take a visit and dazzle your friends! Or, at least, bewilder them. Getting there: The name is Korean is 자수정동굴나라. Take a 20minute taxi ride from the Ulsan-Tongdosa KTX station (approx. 8,000 won). Take the cabbie’s card to call later with help of park staff if necessary. Alternately, you can take bus #323, but it only runs every 90 minutes, stopping about a 20-minute walk from the park entrance. From the bus stop, walk straight and take your first right, then look for the park on your left after the second intersection. Be sure to leave the park early so that you can catch a bus or taxi, since few pass by this rural area. From the cave you can return to the KTX station, the nearby Eonyang Bus Terminal (5,000 won), or to Ulsan (25,000 won and up). If you get stranded, there are some, shall we say, unique motels near the park premises. Admission: 5,000 won; boat ride: 5,000 won; all others charged separately. Visiting hours: 9:00a.m.– 6:00p.m., with last admission at 5:30p.m.

Featured Promotion

KLM Introduces Night Flights to Western Europe Dutch airline KLM is toughening up the Korean air market by starting overnight flights to Europe. KLM Royal Dutch Airlines will change to a night schedule from Incheon International Airport to Amsterdam starting October 28. KLM is the first European airline to introduce an overnight flight to western Europe, responding to numerous customer requests, especially those of business travelers. KLM will operate seven flights a week on this route, operating a Boeing 747-400 Combi aircraft. Together with Air France and SkyTeam partner Korean Air, KLM offers a total of 24 flights per week. The flight will depart at 12:55 a.m. from Seoul, arrive at 4:45 a.m. in Amsterdam; from there, the return departs at 9:20 p.m. in Amsterdam and arrives back in Incheon at 3:40 p.m. The new night schedule will ensure even better connecting flights via Amsterdam to many destinations within Europe, South America and Africa. With the new night schedule, KLM continues to invest in inflight customer comfort. Together with its enhanced products and services, the airline aims to further strengthen its competitive position with convenient times and easy prices.

New Schedule KL865 Departure Amsterdam 21:20 Arrival Incheon 15:40 KL866 Departure Incheon Arrival Amsterdam

00:55 04:45

For booking information and enquires telephone 02-3483-1133 or visit www.klm.com

2013 summer_ busanhaps.com 39

Featured Business

GOODBYE GLASSES With a client list ranging from former presidents to people just like you, Dr. Kim Seung-gi is literally a man of vision.

hile sitting on the sofa in Dr. Kim Seung-gi’s lush Haeundae eye-clinic, surfing the web on one of the five Macs available for customers in the lobby, one can’t help but wonder what the text and images on the screen will look like postoperation when there will no longer be a need for glasses. When it comes to eye surgery, laser vision correction can be carried out in two different ways: LASIK or LASEK. LASIK is by far the more popular option, with approximately 90 percent of candidates opting for this method. The residual 10 percent either opt, or are advised, to undergo a LASEK process. Visual outcomes are typically excellent with either operation, and do not vary based on which of the two the patient opts for. The primary difference between the two options is the location at which treatment takes place. With LASIK, a flap is created in the outer window of the eye known as the cornea, the flap is lifted, 40 HAPS_summer 2013

the laser is applied to the inner layers of the cornea, and the flap is replaced. In contrast, with LASEK, the laser is applied to the surface of the cornea to correct the prescription. As a result, those with thinner corneas are typically advised to undergo LASEK. Other patients for whom LASEK is often recommended include those with thin corneal thickness or those exercise aggresively. For anyone looking to undergo the procedure in Busan, Dr. Kim Seung-gi of the Sojunghannun Ophthalmology Clinic in Centum City has over 22 years of handson experience dealing with thousands of patients each year who opt to undergo the process. Kim comes highly recommended—from 1996 to 1997, he was the personal eye doctor for Korean presidents Kim Young-sam and Nobel Laureate Kim Dae-jung at Cheongwadae, the Blue House in Korea. Having graduated from Korea University with an M.D. in Ophthalmology, he also boasts multiple memberships to local and overseas clubs and charities in the US for further study

on advanced eye procedures. So why choose Sojunghannun? It’s simple: according to Kim, their trained staff of professionals take care of your every need, including driving you home, and provide the safest and best care for your eyes. They are, as he says, “the most important part of your body.” Sojunghannun Eye Clinic has plenty of options for the price-conscious customer to the latest in technology IFS+, Crystal+, and Amaris 750S, which are the only (one of few but other clinics now have some of the same machines) machines of their kind in the city. Prices generally range 50 percent cheaper than the same surgery in the US and one-third of the price in Japan. The clinic is also ISO 9001 and 14001 approved. For a consultation in English, you can contact the clinic at 051-920-7788. They can be found on the 14th floor in the Imperial Tower in Centum City across from Shinsegae Department Store. Sojunghannun Ophthalmology Clinic is a supporter of Haps Magazine.

Community Corner

SHARING BECOMES CULTURE By Jong Ho Kim & Elaine Kim

A local Busan art gallery, an ophthalmology clinic and local artists are collaborating to put on a charity art exhibition for the benefit of children suffering from leukemia.

tarting August 12 and running through September 14, Sojunghannun Ophthalmology Clinic in Centum City will host a charity exhibition to aid children suffering from leukemia. This exhibition has been coordinated through the joint efforts of Yedong Gallery, Sojunghannun Clinic, sculptor Lee Young-sup and the Korean Association for Children with Leukemia and Cancer (KACLC). Its goal is to raise recognition of the challenges and pain of child leukemia patients, and spread a culture of sharing throughout the local community. This unique event transcends the norm of direct donation, as regional resources have collaborated to create deeper value through the shared appreciation of beauty and art. Attendees can view exceptional pieces by sculptor Lee Youngsup, as well as purchase displayed artwork for their personal collections. All exhibition planning is being coordinated by Yedong Gallery.

In addition, 40 percent of all exhibition profits will be donated to the KACLC for the children's medical treatment expenses and welfare support fund. Among the volunteer workforce are college students such as Kim Jong-ho, who states, "I'm proud to be involved in a meaningful experience that highlights both art appreciation and philanthropy." The first annual "Love of Life" charity exhibition will be open through September 14, and will continue its mission in years to come by bringing together art enthusiasts to inspire a culture of sharing. A reception will be held on August 12 at 6:00 pm in the lobby of the Sojunghannun Ophthalmology Clinic, providing attendees the opportunity to learn more about exhibition objectives, hear from the artists and purchase select artwork. For more information, please contact Yedong Gallery at 051-7815337. For directions, visit www.sojunghannun.com.

2013 summer_ busanhaps.com 41

Dining & Food

A TASTE OF MANHATTAN’S KOREATOWN—IN PERSPECTIVE

Story and Photography By Jen Sotham

Food writer Jen Sotham has lived in Busan for seven years. During a recent visit back home to New York, she checks in to see if the stateside Koreatown’s food measures up to the real deal back here in Korea.

grew up on Long Island, just on the fringe of New York Today, I am meeting a friend midtown. I asked her to meet City. As a child, I saw Manhattan as a place where I had me in Koreatown. to wear shoes and hold fast to my mother’s hand. As What started out as a Korean bookstore and sprinkling of resa teenager, it became a gritty playground in which taurants in the 1980s turned into a mini-district, dubbed “KoI could indulge my rebellion. And when, in my mid- reatown”. Conveniently wedged between Penn Station and twenties, I finally claimed a New York City zip code, the Empire State Building, the 100+ small businesses that have its mystery and charm steadily sprung up on the stretch of I ORDER HAEMUL PAJEON AT $7.95 transformed into mere back32nd Street known as “Korean ground noise, like static on a deWay” have become as popular a AND DWAENJANG JJIGAE FOR $11.95, funct TV channel. stop for tourists as it has for WHICH IS DEFINITELY MORE THAN THIS pit In recent years, I’ve come see the more than 200,000 Koreans NYC as this massive, interna- ENTIRE MEAL, WITH ALCOHOL, WOULD that reside in the New York City tional buffet. In all of my globemetropolitan area. COST ME BACK IN BUSAN. trotting, never have I encounThis is not my first visit to Kotered a place that represents a global village as well. Always the reatown. Friends brought me here a few times in the months dilemma: Do I head to Joe’s Shanghai for Xiaolongbao? Little leading up to my move to Busan, to introduce me to the cuisine Frankie’s for Spinach al Forno? Or do I take the 6 train downtown that would soon become my norm. I remember it being deliand hit Veselka, hunker down over a bowl of borscht and a plate cious and relatively cheap. I also remember how poorly my brief of pierogies? Korean Food 101 had prepared me for actual Korean food. 42 HAPS_summer 2013

Home Cooking As I cross over Broadway, the storefronts undergo a sudden transformation. There is an instant familiarity here, and I quickly notice the noraebangs, the Face Shop, and the fact that I’ve been reading the store names in Hangeul instead of English. I pop into several restaurants to try to decipher what’s what, to find something authentic. Again, my eyes shoot straight to the Korean letters, only double-checking the English when the dish name looks unfamiliar. An expectant restaurant hostess notices my finger scanning the Hangeul column and cocks her head at me. I ask her if she speaks Korean... in Korean. I get the reaction I always get when I speak Korean outside of Korea, a mixture of confusion and curiosity. I imagine a lot of foreigners who have lived in Korea get a similar satisfaction from interacting with Koreans outside of Korea; letting them know that I have a deep connection to and appreciation of their homeland instills this kind of instant bond. After looking at about eight menus, trying not to seem like a jerk as I scoffed at the prices ($14.99 for ddeokbokki? $20.50 for bindaeddeok? $26.99 for samgyeopsal?) I settle on NY Komtangsoot Bulgalbi, a two-story establishment with a huge selection of standard Korean dishes at reasonable prices. By reasonable, I mean reasonable in comparison to the restaurants nearby, which is still pretty cringe-worthy compared to Korea. My friend calls to let me know she will be late, and that I should order for her. She then rattles off a list of things she cannot eat, which includes all dairy, egg, gluten, meat and soy. Fortunately, the restaurant offers dolsot (stone pot) bibimbap, and the perfect English of my waiter helps me confirm the ingredients. This, I must admit, is refreshing. For myself, I order haemul pajeon (seafood green onion pancake) at $7.95 and dwaenjang jjigae (soybean-based stew) for $11.95, which is definitely more than this entire meal, with alcohol, would cost me back in Busan. As I wait for my food and my friend, I am befriended by an ajjeoshi who appears to be the owner. Our conversation quickly turns to English when he discovers that my Korean is limited to food talk and a few simple sentences. All the same, he watches with delight as I masterfully pick up my chopsticks and sample all of the bancheon. The kimchi is exactly what I’m used to and the flavors of the other side dishes are spot-on, including the sesame-soy eggplant, seaweed salad and peppers in gochujang. I’m starting to suspect that I chose well. When my food arrives, I immediately know that I’m not going to love the pajeon. It’s a puffy mass of fried flour with a few barely visible slivers of scallion and big round slices of imitation crab. The broth of the dwaenjang jjigae is dense and pungent, just the way I like it, but upon trolling through the soup with my spoon I discover chunks of pork as opposed to the clams or crab I normally find in the Busan version. It’s not bad, but it is different. My friend’s bibimbap is a pretty standard deal: rice, veggies and gochujang. Pretty hard to get it wrong. Fortunately, catching up with an old friend overshadows my disappointment in the food, which winds up costing $40 after tax and tip. If I do head back to Koreatown, I’ll be sure to go with people who don’t have dietary restrictions, and do a little research beforehand (e.g. ask my New York-based Korean friends). In the meantime, I’ll stay focused on bagels and pizza and pastrami on rye. 2013 summer_ busanhaps.com 43

Music Scene

J JONES:

NOTHING’S REALLY REAL By Seth Fellenz Photography By Cool Feet Media

J JONES STANDS IN FRONT OF GRAFFITI PAINTED BY BARNES-AX

Since taking us to Neptune and back with his former group Space Boys, J Jones has released a mixtape that’s equal parts fun, serious and entirely entertaining. Now he’s offering his word wizardry for free online. The one thing J Jones seems sure of on His creativity and sense of humor are on nipulated. From the manufactured reality his solo debut is that he’s not sure of full display in songs from his first project, of how things are presented to us (or even anything. Perception, memory, the uni- Diamonds on Neptune, a thematic album how we present ourselves) to the non-reverse, dope beats—each is explored on with his former group Space Boys about ality of dreams to the altered reality that his new mixtape, Nothing’s Really Real. a mission to Neptune. His collaborations comes with drug use, this album presents J Jones is a remarkably charming guy. with other hip-hop acts in Korea like Saul questions that Jones doesn’t believe can His growing fanbase clearly enjoys his Goode and Childish have been well-re- be answered. catchy songs and clever rhymes, but his ceived in the community, and he is always Despite the seriousness of the album’s passion for music is clear from the minute willing to work with new rappers. themes, the tone could hardly be dehis set begins. He sweats through shirts Nothing’s Really Real is a fascinating al- scribed as scholarly. Sex, drugs and an as he bounces around onstage, pausing bum. If his beats were drugs, they’d be alien abduction all make appearances. between tracks to play with the There is no shortage of clever HE SWEATS THROUGH SHIRTS AS HE crowd; even drunks who didn’t rhymes or creative lyrics. The come to see him end up swayed guest verses feature talented artBOUNCES AROUND ONSTAGE, PAUSING by his energy. Alone onstage but ists and make Nothing’s Really BETWEEN TRACKS TO PLAY WITH THE for DJ Steve Jobs (his MacBook’s Real a much more dynamic work. moniker) and occasional guest CROWD; EVEN DRUNKS WHO DIDN’T COME The accompanying music vidMC, he makes the crowd his part- TO SEE HIM END UP SWAYED BY HIS ENERGY. eo by Cool Feet Media features ner to great effect. His hooks Jones rapping in a sewer—emare easy to sing along to, with loads of psychedelic downers. Culled from a di- phasizing that the guy is, quite literally, call-and-response moments intuitively verse group of DJs and producers in- underground. built into his songs. cluding Scotty Soul, the album features If you’re looking for a high-energy, intelAs great as his stage presence is, Jones a collection of wavy synths and echo- ligent, entertaining musical experience, works his butt off to make it so. Between ing percussion with some tinkling stac- check out J Jones around Busan in the hip-hop shows, rock shows and open mic cato pianos for added texture. Mixed in coming months. nights around Busan, hardly a week goes are a few bouncing, upbeat tracks that Assuming he exists. by without a performance. Writing and improve the entire listening experience. Download Nothing’s Really Real at rewriting his raps, as well as producing This is a thought-provoking work, too— nothingsreallyreal.com, or check out J Jones his own album, it’s amazing he has time Jones is exploring the way we see the on facebook at facebook.com/jjones207 for anything other than music. world and how that can so easily be ma44 HAPS_summer 2013

Nightlife & Music

K-POP CORNER

Sunny Hill - Young Folk Reviewed By James Turnbull

What does Sunny Hill mean to you? The mellow, romantic trio from 2009? The edgier, socially-conscious party of five that brought you “The Grasshopper Song”? Or simply the typical cutesy, now all-girl-group behind “Darling of All Hearts”, the catchy feel-good song of summer 2013? With so many changes in such a short career, but still maintaining a devoted following, Sunny Hill likely could never have satisfied all their fans. Yet this third mini-album is not only a definite return to their softer roots, but it has the unfortunate feel of an indie group going mainstream. “Darling of all Hearts” is the lead track, and justifiably so. A little languid at the start, it builds up to a folksy, peppy song about friendship and the trials of being single, with upbeat visuals to

match. One twist is that it prominently features folk musician Hareem, playing instruments as diverse as the Greek bouzouki and the Swedish nyckelharpa. Another is that the message of being single, and ultimately being fine with that, is actually groundbreaking for K-pop. (And, not coincidentally, was written by the penetrating Kim Eana.) So perhaps Sunny Hill are still not quite as typical as they may now appear. Unfortunately though, the rest of the album fails to deliver on that promise. “Sitcom” is gently uplifting, but monotonous; “Romantic Comic” stands out only for the gentle singing; and “I Don’t Know About Too Many Things” feels forced and overlong. Only the strongly rock-instrumental “Anything You Want” ever turns up the sass.

UPCOMING RELEASES

EARL SWEATSHIRT

THE CLASH

Doris

Sound System

Doris is the phenom’s second album and will feature guests Tyler, the Creator, Frank Ocean, and the RZA. Available for pre-order on iTunes, the album is set for release August 20.

NINE INCH NAILS

A 12-disc box-set featuring the band’s remastered first four albums, three discs of extra music and a DVD of promos and live footage. Set for release on September 9.

FRANZ FERDINAND

Right Thoughts, Right Words, Hesitation Marks Right Action According to Trent Reznor, Hesitation Marks will be “taking NIN Slated for a late August release, the Glasgow-based indie to a new place.” Let’s see where they go. It is their first album band’s fourth studio album, Right Thoughts, Right Words, since 2008’s The Slip and is scheduled for release September 3, Right Action, was described by lead singer Alex Kapranos as fresh after their headlining performance at Korea’s Ansan Valley moving “forward”. Fans are looking forward to seeing which way Rock Festival. the new release goes. 2013 summer_ busanhaps.com 45

Music Scene

CLUB REALIZE: THE SOUND MATTERS by Eugene Smith photography by Bae Jin-su

It’s a small music venue with big sound. And since its opening three years ago, Club Realize has earned the respect of musicians from all genres.

ince Club Realize first opened recording and practicing services offered. Slut, it’s a great place to play, but for more its doors in June, 2010, the In addition, the stage has been further reasons than just the equipment. smallish bar in the Kyungsung implemented with colored lasers and “It has a great system that fills the room University area quickly gained smoke machines that make for a stunning without hitting you over the head with a reputation for housing the visual display. This was all made possible noise. But really, anyone with money can best sound system in Busan. It’s subse- by the venue’s owner, Bae Jin-su. buy a good sound system if they want,” quently been flooded by musicians from Bae’s formidable resume has allowed says MacDonald. “What sets Realize apart all across South Korea, as well as multiple him to connect and see eye-to-eye with is the care Jin-su puts into making sure international acts popping in from the levels are perfect. You’re nevspots around the world. The bar “IT’S MORE THAN JUST PERFECTIONISM— er alone on the stage... There’s was even recently highlighted on always someone by the sound IT’S ABOUT KNOWING WHAT MAKES EACH board.” CNN’s report on Busan, confirming GENRE TECHNICALLY DISTINCT.” the venue’s significance to that of According to Ed Campbell, vocalother veteran expat music-based ist and songwriter of Fatal Fear, it’s bars like Vinyl Underground or Ol’55. the musicians he supports. He’s played in more than just perfectionism—it’s about While first and foremost a metal bar, its multiple bands and is currently the lead knowing what makes each genre technistage has hosted loads of other genres vocalist for metal group Gwamegi, who cally distinct. and has become well-known for its self- won first place on the EBS TV show Hello “You have to know the style of music you organized ‘mini-festivals’ where you’re Rookie in September, 2010. produce,” Campbell says. “Styles suffer if likely to catch upwards of seven bands on Bae used to build PA systems and even you don’t. They need that experience and a bill. Most nights would follow a certain started his own sound company, Max Me- passion to understand and exhibit the art theme, like the “Rock Blow Out Shows” dia, in 2006. This led him to start master- which it is, and to do it justice. Jin-su defior “Metal Hard Core Nights”, but occa- ing and mixing albums for both foreign- nitely achieves that on a regular basis.” sionally there have been musically mixed ers and Koreans. His experience with live For more information of the live, recording genres and people. performances and sound systems has and practicing services that Realize has to While there still is a divide between Ko- made Bae a laid-back and knowledgeable offer, visit Club Realize’s Facebook page at rean and foreign crowds, this is slowly man to work with. www.facebook.com/ClubRealize, or give fading away as more expats visit the bar According Jake MacDonald, vocalist, Bae Jin-su a call at 010-5581-5646. not only for its music, but for the fantastic songwriter and guitarist of Jake and the 46 HAPS_summer 2013

Nightlife & Music

GREAT SPOTS FOR

LIVE MUSIC Most people have caught a show at Ol’55, Vinyl Underground or some of the more popular haunts around town. But we asked members from the Haps Facebook group about places they like to hear live music that many people might not know about. Here’s what they said: “Interplay (in PNU) still brings big names from around Asia and the new Oz Hall in Seomyeon is top-notch tech-wise. A gov’t funded art space in Sasang just opened up to much fanfare among the Busan local scene.” ~ Brian Kilrain

“That beer hall (Hurshimchung) in Oncheonjeong is a good time.” ~ Michael Flynn

“Club Realize (in Kyungsung) is hidden to many and it’s my favourite place to see a band or to play.” ~ Robert Concerto

“I’m with Rob. Realize feels like a small, intimate venue from the Western world. Great sound and staff too.” ~ Jake MacDonald

“Beached Bar (in Gwangan) on Sunday night.” ~ Kevin Smith

“Jazz Cat (in Kyungsung). It’s somewhat new, but I once went with my girlfriend at two in the morning, and even though nobody was there and no band was playing, the woman behind the counter gave us free tequila shots and played a piano solo. Lovely woman.” ~ Michael Fraiman

“No Ga Da (노가다) in KSU. Shows are few and far-between, but the couple I’ve seen were great!” ~ Michael Laveck

“Fanzzing in Nampo-dong.” ~ Steven House

You can join the discussion on Facebook at “hapsmagazineboard” 2013 summer_ busanhaps.com 47

Hotel Directory & News

Hotel Events and News

Whether you are looking for a comfortable place to lay your head, somewhere to enjoy a good meal or throw back a few cocktails, here’s what’s happening at some of our favorite local hotels.

Park Hyatt Busan

51, Marine City 1-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan ph. 051-990-1234 web.busan.park.hyatt.com

Park Hyatt Busan unleashes its newest luxury weekend brunch promotion at Living Room, the hotel’s residential-style casual restaurant. Located on the 31st floor, the brunch takes place every Sunday from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and runs 90,000 won for adults and 50,000 won for kids.

Novotel Hotel

1405-16 Jung-dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan ph. 051-746-8481 web. www.novotel.ambatel.com

Dine with an elegant Korean-style lunch from noon until 3 p.m. at the hotel’s lobby-level restaurant, Seascapes, during weekdays. The restaurant also features an unlimited wine and beer buffet until the end of December.

Hotel Nongshim

23, Geumganggongwon-ro 20 beon-gil, Dongnae-gu, Busan ph. 051-550-2100 web. www.hotelnongshim.com

Ristorante is offering a new antipasti buffet where you can enjoy various Mediterranean salads, hot foods, sushi, and dessert for only 29,500 won. Thursday and Friday evenings also feature a wine buffet until September 27th for 39,500 won per person at the hotel’s first-floor Italian restaurant.

Westin Chosun

67, Dongbaek-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan ph. 051-749-7000 web. www.echosunhotel.com

Fall in love with wine and champagne at the hotel’s Panorama Lounge until the end of September. Moet and Chandon Imperial Brut as well as Rose and Imperial are both on offer, while you can also enjoy a bottle of Napa Valley’s Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon for 140,000 won. 48 HAPS_summer 2013

Lotte Hotel

772 Gayadae-ro, Jin-gu, Busan ph. 051-810-1000 web. www.lottehotelbusan.com

Enjoy three delicious types of frappucino at the Lounge, located on the first floor of the Seomyeon landmark hotel. Green tea, chocolate and strawberry flavors are available for 20,000 won from 7:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. daily.

Accomodation Guide

Hotel Directory

Looking for a place to stay when visiting Busan? Find it with the Haps hotel directory, your local English guide to accomodation in the city. HAEUNDAE THE WESTIN CHOSUN tel: 82-51-749-7000 web: www.echosunhotel.com Do it right and crash in the same room George W. Bush did. PARADISE HOTEL tel: 82-51-742 2121 web: www.paradisehotel.co.kr On the water, with a casino, excellent spa and a pool. SEACLOUD HOTEL tel: 82-51-933-1000 web: www.seacloudhotel.com Luxury stay with great restaurants. Short walk to the beach. CENTUM HOTEL tel: 82-51-720-9000 web: www.centumhotel.co.kr Near Shinsegae and BEXCO. Good subway access. SUNSET HOTEL tel: 82-51-730-9900 web: www.sunsethotel.co.kr Seventy-two rooms with, according to the site, “individual design concepts”. NOVOTEL AMBASSADOR tel: 82-51-743-1234 web: novotel.ambatel.com On the beach. Great ocean view, Murpii Nightclub. GRAND HOTEL tel: 82-51-740-0610 web: www.grandhotel.co.kr One of the cheaper spots on the strip, but still at the beach. GUNOH SEACLOUD HOTEL tel: 82-51-933-4300 web: www.seacloudhotel.kr Luxury stay with great restaurants. Short walk to the beach. HANWHA RESORT tel: 82-1588-2299 web: www.hanwharesort.co.kr Beautiful views of Oryukdo, the bridge and close to the beach. PARK HYATT BUSAN tel: 82-51-990-1234 web: busan.park.hyatt.com Five star quality hotel with stunning views and service.

SEOMYEON LOTTE HOTEL tel: 82-51-810-1000 web: www.lottehotelbusan.com Lotte runs a tight ship and it shows in the generous customer service here.

TOYOKO INN tel: 82-51-442-1045 web: www.toyoko-inn.com Across from D City, comfortable, clean and affordable. CROWN HOTEL tel: 82-51-635-1241 web: www.fnetravel.com/english/pusanhotels/crown.html Mid-range hotel decorated in Korean style, good for travellers.

GWANGALLI HOMERS HOTEL tel: 82-51-750-8000 web: www.homershotel.com Right on Gwangalli Beach amidst the myriad of cafes, bars and restaurants. AQUA PALACE tel: 82-51-756-0202 web: www.aquapalace.co.kr Beautiful view of the Diamond Bridge, right in the middle of the beach.

JUNG-GU COMMODORE HOTEL tel: 82-51-461-9703 web: www.commodore.co.kr Beautifully designed traditional hotel. Close proximity to Busan Station. BUSAN TOURIST HOTEL tel: 82-51-241-4301 web: www.pusanhotel.co.kr Conveniently located next to the train station. Good for a cheap night’s rest. TOYOKO INN tel: 82-51-442-1045 web: www.toyoko-inn.com Affordably priced hotel, clean and 10 minutes away from the train station. PHOENIX HOTEL tel: 82-51-245-8061 web: www.hotelphoenix.net Highly trained staff, close to Nampodong. Popular with Japanese tourists. ELYSEE HOTEL tel: 82-51-241-4008 web: www.elyseemotel.com Affordable hotel with good amenities. Close to Nampo-dong.

BUSAN STATION GUKJE HOTEL tel: 82-51-642-1330 web: www.hotelkukje.com About 3 km away from the train station, close to Citizen’s Hall. TOYOKO INN tel: 82-51-442-1045 web: www.toyoko-inn.com

The second location, this one is a minute away from the train station.

OTHER AREAS PARAGON HOTEL [Sasang-gu] tel: 82-51-328-2001 web: www.hotelparagon.com Business comfort, with close proximity to Gimhae International Airport.

HI KOREA HOSTEL tel: 070-4409-3132 web: www.hikoreahostel.com email: hikoreahostel@gmail.com Your home away from home, Hi Korea Hostel offers you an affordable and comfortable accommodation just a stone’s throw away from Haeundae Beach.

BUSAN CENTRAL HOTEL [Yeonsan-dong] tel: 82-51- 866-6225 web: www.centralhotel.co.kr Adjacent to Yeonsan rotary, located 10 minutes away from City Hall. HOTEL NONGSHIM [Oncheonjeong] tel: 82-51-550-2100 web: www.hotelnongshim.com Great area around the hotel. Head north to PNU for original Busan nightlife.

BUDGET BUSAN YOUTH HOSTEL ARPINA [Haeundae] tel: 82-51-731-9800 web: www.arpina.co.kr Opened in 2004, a cheap place to stay for the night. Culture center inside. GOODSTAY THE PLANET GUESTHOUSE [Haeundae] tel: 010-2780-6350 web: www.earthlinghome.com Women-only dormitory across from Haeundae Beach in the Crystal Beach Office Tel. INDY HOUSE [Kyungsung Uni] tel: 82-70-8615-6442 Super cheap, dorm-style room right in the heart of Kyungsung. MARUB GUEST HOUSE [Haeundae] tel: 010-6322-3194 web: www.marubee.com Well-placed near restaurants, commercial area in Haeundae. POBI GUEST HOUSE [Haeundae] tel: 051-746-7990 web: www.guesthousekoreabusan.com Renovated guest houses three minutes from Haeundae Beach. SUM GUEST HOUSE tel: 070-8837-0700 web: www.sumhostel.com Renovated in 2011, they guarantee guests a pleasant stay whether in Busan for business or pleasure. HELLO GUEST HOUSE [Haeundae] tel: 051-746-8590 web: www.facebook.com/helloguesthousehello Friendly, clean and cozy atmosphere. Outdoor patio for your enjoyment. 2013 summer_ busanhaps.com 49

Nightlife & Dining Directory

GWANGALLI BEACH BIKINI [Lounge/Beer Bar] Spacious club with dancing and such. BEACHED CAFE AND SPORTS BAR [Kiwi Sports Bar] open: 6pm - late tel: 051-924-9662 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ beached-cafe-sports-bar Recently renovated, this Kiwi-run sports bar has gained a huge expat following in the second year of existence for its spectacular bridge view, delicious menu and its wide array of Kiwi beer, the only place in the city to boast such a claim. Rugby is the sport of choice on the TV for the punters. BELLA CITTA [Italian] tel: 051-711-0010 web: www.busanhaps.com/food/bellacitta-italian Italian restaurant with an incredible interior, top notch menu and indoor garden seating. BURGER AND PASTA [International] open: 11am - 2am tel: 051-751-6631 web: www.busanhaps.com/food/burgerand-pasta-gwangan The second of the Burger and Pasta shops around the city, this international eatery offers a great view of the bridge while you enjoy your day on the sand. Burgers, pasta and brunch are on the menu in the stylishly decorated restaurant in the middle of the main drag of Gwangalli Beach. FOUR SEASONS [Raw Fish Korean] English speaking owner, 2nd fl. Fish Market. FUZZY NAVEL- MILLAK [Food/Bar] open: 11am - 6am tel: 051-754-6349 web: www.fncompany.co.kr It has fabulous views of Gwangalli Beach. Facing the Diamond Bridge, come enjoy a drink and some tacos on our patio. Great staff serve fresh made Mexican cuisine and will mix up your favorite cocktail. FUZZY NAVEL- GWANGALLI [Bar] open: 7pm - 6am web: www.fncompany.co.kr Located on the ground floor, offering a great view of the beach and bridge. Friendly staff serve excellent cocktails at the vintage-looking bar. Make sure you take advantage of the outside seating in the summertime. GALMEGI BREWING CO. [Craft Brew Pub] open: Mon - Fri 6-1am, Sat 2pm-2am, Sun 2pm-12am tel: 010-4469-9658 web: www.busanhaps.com/galmegi50 HAPS_summer 2013

brewing fb: galmegi.brewing Galmegi Brewing Co. is Busan’s first craft brew pub right on Gwangan Beach. All of our beer is handcrafted here in Korea using fresh mountain stream water, German barley, American hops, and imported yeast strains from around the world. On Tap This Summer: Hefeweizen, Amber Ale, Rye Pale Ale, IPA, Porter, & Raspberry Wheat. SAIGON PHO [Vietnamese] tel: 051-755-4205 Has been serving up Phở, the Vietnamese noodle soup since 1997. One of the few non-chain Vietnamese spots in town. Look for the big yellow sign, across the street from the Starbucks. SHARKY’S [American Sports Bar] open: 6 p.m. weekdays, 2 p.m. weekends tel: 010-4038-2907 (call for reservations) web: www.sharkysbusan.com Ranked highly on tripadvisor.com and as having the best burger in Busan by Haps, Sharky’s is a smoke-free environment where families or singles can enjoy a great drink and a fine meal. With premium-cut steaks, burgers, fresh gourmet salads and vegetarian options, Sharky’s has something for everyone. THURSDAY PARTY [Korean/Expat Bar] open: 6pm - late web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ thursday-party A summer staple on Gwangalli Beach for the past couple of summers, Thursday Party has two locations situated next to each other on the east side of the beach. Both bars are similar to the Thursday Party city-wide theme, and offer a variety of American style pub grub to tempt your palate. WA BAR [Beer Bar] Wide selection of beer laid out for your choosing.

HAEUNDAE AN GA [Korean] tel: 051-742-7852 Very popular bbq meat restaurant in Haeundae. BILLIE JEAN [Lounge/Live Music] tel: 051-742-0297 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ billiejean A Haps favorite. Great decor. BURGER AND PASTA [International] open: 11am - 2am web: www.busanhaps.com/food/burgerand-pasta-haeundae Recently opened, this Western/ Korean fusion style restaurant has been packing them in since day one.

Burgers, pasta and brunch are on the menu in the stylishly decorated restaurant, where you can also imbibe yourself to a glass of wine, a cocktail or beer after your day on the beach. CHEOLMA HANWOO BULGOGI [Korean] tel: 051-709-4000 Bulgogi done at its best. CINE DE CHEF [Italian] tel: 051-745-2880 In Shinsegae, enjoy a good meal and a movie. EL OLIVE [Italian] tel: 051-752-7300 Delicious Italian, close to Costco. FUZZY NAVEL [Food/Bar] open: 11am - 6am tel: 051-746-6439 web: www.fncompany.co.kr Great location set on two floors near the beach, other bars, and clubs. Amazing Mexican food is served from lunchtime until the early hours of the morning. Friendly staff and outside seating makes Fuzzy Navel a place to hit when the weather is good. GANGA [Indian] Expect to pay some good money, but it’s worth it. GECKOS [Pub] Beach front bar. Consistently good food. GEN SUSHI [Japanese] tel: 051-740-6630 Affordable sushi. Good stuff. HELLO THAI [Thai] tel: 051-731-5033 Good Thai food in the heart of Haeundae. MERCADO [Brazilian Steakhouse] open: 11:30 a.m. - 24:00 tel: 051-744-8807 web: www.mercado.co.kr An authentic southern Brazilian Churrascaria, Mercado is the perfect dining experience for family and friends. With eight choices of prime meat seasoned with Brazilian spices charcoaled and grilled to perfection, salads and Brazilian rice, this unique dining experience is like no other in the city. LOVING HUT [Vegetarian] tel: 051-747-2979 web: www.lovinghut.co.kr All organic, all good. Veggie paradise. MURPII [Nightclub] In the Novotel. Dancing, drinking, MY TABLE [Cafe] open: 11 am - 10:30 p.m. tel: 051-744-8989 web: www.cafemytable.com My Table is a great little spot in Marine City that offers excellent coffee and great food to go along with it,

including several organic offerings, excellent sandwiches, great yogurts, the popular pumpkin soup or the sea mustard noodles. Make sure to check out the tiramisu made with 100% mascarpone. NAMASTE [Indian] tel: 051-746-1946 Indian fine dining. Good prices and great food. PHO KIM [Vietnamese] tel: 051-740-4868 Good food at a good price. Great soup, located in SFUNZ. SHARKY’S [American Sports Bar] open: 6 p.m. weekdays, 2 p.m. weekends tel: 010-4038-2907 (call for reservations) web: www.sharkysbusan.com Ranked highly on tripadvisor.com and as having the best burger in Busan by Haps, Sharky’s is a smoke-free environment where families or singles can enjoy a great drink and a fine meal. With premium-cut steaks, burgers, fresh gourmet salads and vegetarian options, Sharky’s has something for everyone. Located on the second floor of Pale de Cz, next to the Paradise Hotel. SUNTORY [Japanese] Food and drink in a classy setting. Bonzai! TAO [American/Sports Bar] open: pub time 6 p.m.-12 a.m., club time 12 a.m.- 6 a.m. tel. 1544-8030 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ clubtao The newest edition to Haeundae beach, Club Tao perfectly matches style and elegance by combining a fantastic bistro menu with a nighttime club scene. Conveniently located across the street from the Pale de CZ on Haeundae Beach. TAP AND TAPAS [Spanish] open: 3pm-5am tel: 051-746-6318 web: www.tapntapas.com Recently opened, Tap and Tapas serves up high quality, well-presented Spanish cuisine in a striking new setting in Haeundae. With an extensive menu of upscale cocktails and a tap room, it’s a great place to meet for an informal meeting, or out for a night on the town to impress. T.G.I. FRIDAY’S [Chain] tel: 051-740-6531 Good reliable chain in the Harbor Town building, across from the beach. THE WOLFHOUND PUB [Irish Pub] open: 6pm - 2am weekdays, 11am - 2am weekends tel: 051-746-7940 web: www.wolfhoundpub.com

Dining & Food

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Paradise Hotel & Casino

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Pale De Cz

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MARINE CITY RESTAURANTS 02 Kraze Burger 03 Hello Sushi 04 The Pan 05 Hyatt Dining Room CAFES 01 My Table Cafe 02 Tom n Toms 03 Starbucks 04 Caffe Benne

Haeundae

01 Bus Depot

BMW 02 Dealership 02

Haeundae Aquarium

Bar/Pub/Lounge

HAEUNDAE CLUBS 01 Murphii 02 Elune 03 Tao BARS/PUBS/LOUNGES 01 Thursday Party 02 Miami 88 03 Wolfhound 04 Rock n’ Roll 05 Fuzzy Navel 06 U2 08 Sector 510 09 Gecko’s 10 Sharky’s 11 Billie Jean 12 Tap and Tapas 12 TBR RESTAURANTS 01 TGI Friday’s 01 Mad For Garlic 01 Ganga 02 Hello Thai 03 Namaste 04 Loving Hut CAFES 01 Coffine Gurunaru 02 Angel-In-Us 03 Angel-In-Us 04 Starbucks 05 Caffe Bene

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FULLY BOOKED [Cafe/Bar] open: Tues-Thurs 7pm - 12am, Fri 7pm 1am, Sat 2pm - 2am, Sun 2pm - 12am tel. 070-8170-9628 web: www.busanhaps.com/fullybooked

MAPS

Haeundae Tourist Office

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Harbour Town

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KYUNGSUNG ALMOST FAMOUS [Dance/Techno] Funky atmosphere, great staff. AUSSIE BURGER [International] Burgers, fries and Aussie pies. AYUTA [Indian] Friendly staff, good food. BEIJING GO-CHI [Chinese] Great skewers, great food, cheap prices. BLUE MONKEY [Dance/Hip Hop] open: 7pm to late tel. 051-611-2888 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ blue-monkey BON BON [Italian] tel: 051-621-0906 Great little spot next to Kyungsung U. BURGER AND PASTA [International] open: 11am - 11pm tel: 051-625-6651 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ burger-pasta With three locations around Busan, Burger and Pasta offer a solid menu, and reasonable prices that make them a hit with young Koreans and expats. Set in the traditional Thursday Party wooden decor, they offer pasta, burgers and a brunch with a small patio to enjoy the street catwalk on sunny days. CAFE RADIO [Cafe] Great atmosphere. Relax with a book. EVA’S TICKET [Western/Sports] Eva and the HQ fellas new super bar offer tons of things to keep you occupied.

HAPS

Haeund

THURSDAY PARTY [Korean/Expat Bar] tel: 051-744-6621 open: 6pm - late web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ thursday-party A staple of the Busan landscape, Thursday Party Haeundae offers a casual, yet comfortable option after a day at the beach. With a patio for outdoor sitting, this open-aired spacious pub brings the usual quality service the locals and expats have come to expect from the Thursday Party empire. U2 BAR [Lounge] Great place to chill, awesome service, a Haeundae institution. VAN GOGH TERRACE [Italian] tel: 051-741-3767 Nice view of the water while you eat.

HAEUNDAE

Daewoo Marina 1 Cha Haeb yun R

Sun Plaza Zenith Towers Zenith Square

WooShin Golden Suite

03 Marina Center

Bene City

04 02 Ro ity 1rine C

02 04

2013 summer_ busanhaps.com 51

Nightlife & Dining Directory MONK’S JAZZ CLUB [Jazz Club] Busan’s only jazz club. Tuesday nights are hot.

HQ BAR [American/Sports Bar] open: Mon-Sat 6:00-Late, Sun 4:00-9:00 tel: 010-7544-8830 web: www.facebook.com/hq.bar.5 HQ Bar is your place in KSU for drunken mistake-making. We have an ever-expanding variety of microbrew bottles and craft beers on tap; an extensive selection of late-night pub grub; rugby, football, and kung fu movies; and a music selection that, according to our customers, isn’t awful.

O’TACO [Mexican] open: 11 a.m. - 10 p.m. daily tel: 051-627-8358 web: www.busanhaps.com/otaco Kyungsung’s original Mexican restaurant, O’Taco, has become a staple for those looking to get their Mexican food fix. Using only the finest and freshest ingredients, this must-try eatery has indoor and patio seating, as well as a daily lunch special and extensive menu at affordable prices. Open daily. KINO EYE [Dance Club] Dark atmosphere. Live music on occasion. 52 HAPS_summer 2013

OL’ 55 [Live Music/Event] tel: 051-627-5645 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ ol’55 Ol’55 is located in the heart of Kyungsung University and is noted for its Open Mic Wednesdays, which are known to host the best Korean and expat musicians in town. PAINTED CHAIR CAFE [Cafe/Gallery] The art, the atmosphere. Good place to chill. SHABANA [Indian] tel: 051-621-4821 Good, affordable Indian food. THE SUSHI [Japanese] tel: 051-611-4043 Affordable, quality Japanese food. THURSDAY PARTY [Korean/Expat Bar] open: 6pm - late web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ thursday-party2 With ten Thursday Party’s around the city, it has become a staple for the young, hip Korean university crowd and expats alike. Beer pong, sports on TV and the free curry popcorn or salted spaghetti sticks are always in play, as is a busy crowd almost every evening of the week. VINYL UNDERGROUND [Nightclub/Event Bar] www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/vinyl Vinyl Underground is known as the spot for live music in the Kyungsung area.

PNU CROSSROADS [Live Music/Pub] open: 7pm-late tel: 051-515-1181 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ crossroads A small, but atmospheric watering hole in PNU, Crossroads has been a Busan institution amongst the expats for years. FARMERS BURGERS [American/Korean Fusion] People rave about it. Nominated in Best Burger. INTERPLAY [Live Music/Event] Live music, hit or miss if you catch on a good night. LOVING HUT [Vegetarian] www.lovinghut.co.kr tel: 051-518-0115 MOO MONK [Live Music] Can catch some great Korean indie bands here. PHO [Vietnamese] Nice Vietnamese food in PNU. RED BOTTLE [Korean/Expat Bar] Good spot to get a drink.

RISTORANTE [Italian] Great Italian fare at the Nongshim Hotel. SHABANA [Indian] tel: 051-517-1947 Nice Indian food for cheap. SOULTRANE [Comedy/Event/Rock] tel: 051-515-1181 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ soul-trane One of the oldest expat bars in the city, the once foreigner oriented Soultrane nonetheless draws a healthy mix of locals, expats and tourists. THE BASEMENT [Korean/Expat Bar] web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ basement One of the most popular bars in the area. Always a great time, and anchors the PNU scene.

SEOMYEON BUFFALO CHICKEN [Chicken] tel: 051-805-3512 Good chicken chain with several interesting sauces. BUONA OVEN PIZZA [Italian] tel: 051-904-8239 Nice, oven-baked pizza and spaghetti. CLUB FIX [Nightclub] tel: 051-905-5777 web: www.clubfixkorea.info New super club. International DJs and dress code required. DIVISION 9 [Lounge] Pinball, darts, basketball, drinking and good fun. DRAGON DREAM (THE CAVE BAR) [Korean] tel: 051-646-5924 Very interesting decor with a nice selection of food. FOXY DANCE [Club] Dance club, usually packed on the weekend. FUZZY NAVEL- SEOMYEON I [Food/Bar] open: 5pm - 6am tel: 051-808-1007 web: www.fncompany.co.kr Check out the newly refurbished bar offering a variety of entertainment including, soft darts, pool, and table soccer. Awesome DJs and a wide floor make this place to be at night. Also, new to Seomyeon, the same amazing Mexican food as served at the Haeundae Fuzzy Navel is prepared in our large renovated kitchen. FUZZY NAVEL- SEOMYEON Il [Bar] open: 5pm - 6am tel: 051-817-2242 web: www.fncompany.co.kr On the ground floor with a sliding window for when the weather is good, an excellent mix of Koreans and foreigners makes this a good place to

make new friends. A comfortable atmosphere, where you will be looked after by the friendly staff, who will even give you a fireshow if you are celebrating a special occasion. HANGOVER [Western Pub] open: 6 p.m. to 2 a.m. Tuesday - Sunday tel: 070-7789-5868 web: www.busanhaps.com/freehousehangover From the good folks that brought you the great Italian food at Vito’s, this new eatery/bar located in the prime of Seomyeon brings delicious western food and fine tasting beer with its unique refrigeration system. You can also enjoy your food or drink on their spacious indoor deck away from the hustle and bustle of the streets. LOVING HUT [Vegetarian] tel: 051-808-7718 www.lovinghut.co.kr ROCK N’ ROLL BAR [Rock] A true dive. Good atmosphere and pool and darts. T.G.I. FRIDAY’S [Chain] tel: 051-805-3164 Two locations in Seomyeon to choose from. THURSDAY PARTY [Korean/Expat Bar] open: 6pm - late tel: 051-818-6621 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ thursday-party-1 You can expect more of the same from the Seomyeon Thursday Party, which caters to a young, eclectic mix of Koreans and expats. Nestled amongst a slew of bars and restaurants behind Judie’s Taewha, Thursday Party stands out for their unique charm, quality service and hip atmosphere amongst the Korean cool. VITO [Italian] tel: 051-806-5868 web: www.busanhaps.com/food/vito Fashioned in the tradition of the small Italian trattoria, Vito brings back a taste of the old country.

NAMPO ARUN THAI [Thai] open: 11a.m. - 10 p.m. tel: 051-908-9085 web: www.facebook.com/arunthai.kr The chefs at Arun Thai bring you succulently prepared authentic Thai dishes at very reasonable rates. This delightful restaurant, nestled on the second floor some 50m in the back alleyway next to KFC, is a great meeting place, whether for a light lunch or large-scale dinner in a stylish environment with friendly service. FARMERS BURGERS [International] Enjoy a quality, fresh-made burger and fries on the roof.

Dining & Food

GWANGAN

HAPS

KUHN [Asian] Hosts a variety of Southeast Asian dishes at good prices.

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GWANGAN BARS/PUBS/LOUNGES 01 Paris 02 Beach Bikini 03 Thursday Party 04 Fuzzy Navel 05 Beached 06 Sharky’s 07 Galmegi Brewing RESTAURANTS 01 Burger n’ Pasta 02 Bella Citta 03 Blue Saigon CAFES 01 Tom n’ Toms 02 Twosome Place 03 Starbucks BUSINESS/OTHER 01 Kai Surf Shop 02 New Philadelphia Seaside Church KYUNGSUNG BARS/PUBS/LOUNGES 01 Almost Famous 02 Club Realize 03 HQ 04 Blue Monkey 06 Ho Bar 07 Thursday Party 08 New Foxy 09 Vinyl Underground 10 Ol’55 11 Fabric 12 Fully Booked 13 Monk RESTAURANTS 01 O’Taco 02 Burger & Pasta 03 Outback 04 Okkudak CAFES 01 Starbucks 02 Tom n’ Toms 03 Angel-In-Us 04 Angel-In-Us

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AIR BUSAN tel: 051-974-8686 web: www.busanair.com ASIANA AIRLINES - DOMESTIC tel: 051-972-4004 web: www.flyasiana.com ASIANA AIRLINES - INTERNATIONAL tel: 051-971-2626 web: www.flyasiana.com CEBU PACIFIC AIR tel: 051-462-0686 web: www.cebupacificair.com JEJU AIR tel: 070-7420-1502 web: www.jejuair.net KOREAN AIR - INTERNATIONAL tel: 051-970-3227

SERVICES DIRECTORY AIRLINES

Restaurant

eon Suy

NEW LITTLE INDIA [Indian] open: 11am- 10pm tel: 051-245-4127 web: www.busanhaps.com/food/newlittle-india Situated on the second floor in the heart of Nampodong, New Little India specializes in the finest authentic Indian cuisine. The elegantlystyled interior and superior service complements the remarkably fresh ingredients on their vast menu. A great destination for those looking to enjoy a fine meal at affordable prices and a quiet ambiance. THE PAN [Brunch] Nestled amongst a slew of outdoor terrace restaurants. THURSDAY PARTY [Korean/Expat Bar] open: 6pm - late web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ thursday-party-1 The Thursday Party Nampo store offers a slightly varied atmosphere than the others around the city, though by no means is it less exciting. A slightly more mixed crowd of expats and young Koreans is to be expected, as well as the great service that TP has become renowned for.

GS Gas Station

2013 summer_ busanhaps.com 53

Services Directory web: www.koreanair.com LUFTHANSA tel: 02-2019 0180 web: www.lufthansa.com KLM ROYAL DUTCH AIRLINES tel: 02-3483-1133 web: www.klm.com

BUSINESS ORGANIZATIONS AMCHAM #4501, Trade Tower 159-1, Samsungdong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul tel: 02-564-2040 web: www.amchamkorea.org An independent association of American and international businesses, the role of the American Chamber of Commerce is to promote business and trade between the United States and Korea. ECCK 102-2903 WBC The Palace 1523, Haeundae-gu tel: 051-959-9695 web: www.ecck.eu The European Chamber of Commerce aims to provide an effective network of business associates together with discussion forums and seminars on how to do business in Korea, as well as an array of social networking events.

EDUCATION FOREIGN SCHOOLS BUSAN FOREIGN SCHOOL 1366-3 Jwa-dong, Haeundae-gu tel: 051-747-7199 web: www.busanforeignschool.org BUSAN JAPANESE SCHOOL 173-8 Millak-dong, Suyoung-gu tel: 051-753-4166 web: user.chollian.net/~pusjpnsc BUSAN OVERSEAS CHINESE KINDERGARTEN 548-1 Choryang-dong, Dong-gu tel: 051-468-2845 web: kbces.com.ne.kr BUSAN INTERNATIONAL FOREIGN SCHOOL

798 Nae-ri, Gijang-eup, Gijang-gun tel: 051-742-3332 web: www.bifskorea.org

TESOL TRAINING KOTESOL Email: bgkotesol@gmail.com Facebook: Busan-Gyeongnam KOTESOL Chapter TESOL ALLIANCE tel: 051-818-0502 web: www.tesolalliance.com

KOREAN LESSONS 54 HAPS_summer 2013

BUSAN FOUNDATION FOR INTERNATIONAL ACTIVITIES tel: 051-668-7900 web: www.bfia.or.kr email: busanglobalcenter@gmail.com KLIFF tel: 051-513-0131 web: www.kliff.co.kr email: jennakang@hanmail.net PNU LANGUAGE EDUCATION CENTER tel: 051-510-1983 web: www.ili.pusan.ac.kr email: bangjy77@pusan.ac.kr

THE ONE MRI CLINIC open: Mon - Fri 11 a.m. - 7 p.m., Saturday 11 a.m. - 2 p.m. tel: 051-937-0303 web: www.mriclinic.net With over 12 years medical experience in the United States, Dr. Suh Jong-dae is an MRI, PET/CT and ultrasound specialist licensed with both the American and Korean Board of Radiology. The most trusted name in Korean Medical Imaging, you can enjoy quick, reliable and trustworthy English service for all your medical needs.

INFORMATION

HOSPITALS

EXPAT ASSISTANCE

BUK-GU/DONGNAE

CALL CENTER FOR FOREIGN RESIDENTS IN BUSAN tel: 1577-7716 FREE TRANSLATION SERVICE (BBB) tel: 1588-5644 MULTICULTURAL FAMILY SUPPORT CENTER tel: 1577-5432

INFORMATION CENTERS TOURIST INFORMATION SERVICE tel: 1330 BEXCO TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER tel: 051-740-7300 BUSAN GLOBAL CENTER tel: 1577-7716 BUSAN INT’L PASSENGER TERMINAL TOURIST INFORMATION tel: 051-465-3471 BUSAN STATION TOUR INFORMATION tel: 051-441-6565 GIMHAE INT’L AIRPORT TOUR INFORMATION (DOMESTIC) tel: 051-973-4607 GIMHAE INT’L AIRPORT TOUR INFORMATION (INTERNATIONAL) tel: 051-973-2800 HAEUNDAE TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER tel: 051-749-5700 INTERNATIONAL FERRY INFORMATION CENTER tel: 051-465-3471 NOPODONG BUS TERMINAL TOURIST INFORMATION tel: 051-508-9400 UN MEMORIAL CEMETERY TOURIST INFORMATION tel: 051-625-1608

MEDICAL OPTOMETRISTS

SANTA OPTICAL open: Daily 10 a.m ~ 9 : 30 p.m tel. 051-704-1771 web:www.facebook.com/SantaOptic A short distance from Jangsan station, Santa Optical offers almost every available option to make sure you get the best eyewear. Prescription eyeglasses, sunglasses, progressive lenses, transition lenses, RGP hard contact lenses and contact lenses are all available. Join us on Facebook and receive five percent off.

HEALTH CENTERS DONGNAE HEALTH CENTER 702-54, Myeongryun-2 dong, Dongnae-gu tel: 051-555-4000 HAEUNDAE HEALTH CENTER 1339, Jwa-2 dong, Haeundae-gu tel: 051-746-4000 JUNG-GU HEALTH CENTER 1 Ga 1, Daecheong-dong, Jung-gu tel: 051-600-4741

HERBAL CLINICS

DONGEUI UNIVERSITY HOSPITAL 397-3, Bujeon-1 dong, Busanjin-gu tel: 051-803-5430 GOOD SAMSUN HANBANG 1162-2, Jurye-dong, Sasang-gu tel: 051-325-0300

RADIOLOGY CLINICS

BUMIN HOSPITAL 380-4, Deokcheon 1-dong tel: 051-330-3000 web: www.buminhos.co.kr DONG EUI MEDICAL CENTER San 45-1, Yangjeong 2-dong tel: 051-867-5101 web: www.demc.kr DONGNAE BONG SENG HOSPITAL 766, Anlak 1-dong tel: 051-531-6000 web: www.bongseng.com DONGRAE WOORIDUL HOSPITAL 205-10, Nakmin-dong tel: 051-559-5000 web: www.dongrae.wooridul.co.kr INJE UNIVERSITY BUSAN PAIK HOSPITAL 1435, Jwa-dong tel: 051-890-6114

HAEUNDAE HYOSUNG CITY HOSPITAL 1094-2, Jaesong 1-dong tel: 051-709-3000 web: www.hshos.com INJE UNIV. HAEUNDAE PAIK HOSPITAL 1435, Jwa-dong tel: 051-797-0100 web: www.paik.ac.kr/Haeundae

JUNG-GU HAEYANG HOSPITAL 80-8 Jungang-dong 4-ga tel: 051-469-4456 web: www.haeyang.net MARYKNOLL MEDICAL CENTER 12, Daecheong-dong 4-ga tel: 051-465-8801 web: www.maryknoll.co.kr

NAMPO-DONG RESTAURANTS 01 Arun Thai 02 KFC 03 The Pan 04 The Pho 05 New Little India 06 Farmers Burgers 07 McDonalds CAFES 01 Caffe Bene 02 Starbucks 03 Angel-In-Us 04 Holly’s 05 The Cafe 06 Caffe Bene

Taewha 03 Judie’s Dept. Store 01

Sojeon Road 6

4 2 13

Jungkangdae Road

Seomyeon Subway Stn.

Cafe

SEOMYEON CLUBS 01 Fix 02 Foxy BARS/PUBS/LOUNGES 01 Rock n’ Roll 02 Spot 03 Thursday Party 04 Fuzzy Navel 05 Fuzzy Navel II 06 Hangover RESTAURANTS 01 Vito 02 TGI Friday’s CAFES 01 Angel-In-Us 02 Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf 03 Twosome Place 04 Tom n’ Toms BUSINESS 01 Kangs Dental 02 Apple Store 03 St. Louis Dental

8 10

Restaurant

01 02

Seomyeon Road

Lotte Hotel & Seven Luck Casino

Jungang-dong Sub. 6

Lotte Dept. Store

NAMPO-DONG

LEGEND

3 1

Yongdusan Park

Busan Tower

03 Busan Modern History Museum

Daegaksa Temple

d Shoppin g Mall

REDEEMER INTERNATIONAL COMMUNITY CHURCH Minerva Hall, Pusan University of Foreign Studies tel: 010-8326-1985 web: www.redeemerbusan.org Services: Sundays, 10:30 a.m. RICC is a close-knit community church that is committed to sharing the incredible good news of grace and forgiveness through Jesus Christ. RICC is developing a community of Christ followers from all

Bar/Pub/Lounge

02 04

. g Sub

GIFT MINISTRY Myung-nyun-dong, Dongnae-gu tel: 010-7999-8644 web: www.tinyurl.com/lifeisagift Services: Saturdays,10:30 a.m. HOSANNA CHURCH Myeongji-dong, #3245-5 Gangseo-gu, tel: 051-209-0191 web: www.him-busan.blogspot.com Services: Sundays, 12:30 p.m.

Club

o-don

AL-FATIH MASJID MOSQUE Namsan-dong, #30-1 Guemjeong-gu tel: 051-518-9991 web: www.busanislam.or.kr Services: 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily

Business

Namp

RELIGIOUS SERVICES

LEGEND

Tourist

05 03 04 Information 02

Jalgalchi Fish Market

rgroun

BUSAN CENTUM HOSPITAL 1077-1, Gwangan 3-dong tel: 051-760-5000 web: www.centumhospital.com BUSAN HANNAH WOMAN'S HOSPITAL 304, Namcheon-dong tel: 051-625-2300 web: www.hannah4u.co.kr GOOD GANGAN HOSPITAL 40-1, 41-9, Namcheon-dong tel: 051-625-0900 web: www.gang-an.or.kr

o Unde

SUYEONG

Dongcheon Road

Namp

DONG-A UNIVERSITY MEDICAL CENTER 3-ga, #1 Dongdaeshin-dong tel: 051-240-2400 web: www.damc.or.kr PUSAN NATIONAL UNIVERSITY HOSPITAL 10, Ami-dong 1-ga tel: 051-254-0171 web: www.pnug.co.kr

MAPS

Dongcheon Road

Cosmetic Surgery Street

SEO-GU

HAPS

Jungang Middle School

D City Dept Store

Sojeon Road

BUSAN ST. MARY'S MEDICAL CENTER 538-41, Yongho 4-dong tel: 051-933-7114 web: www.bsm.or.kr

SEOMYEON

Kayodae Road

NAM-GU

PIFF Squaure

Gukje Market

Restaurant Cafe

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Services Directory nations. Visit any Sunday at 10:30 am or contact us for more info!

MUSEUMS

BUSAN MUSEUM OF ART 40, Apec-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan tel: 051-740-2602 web: www.art.busan.go.kr Opening Hours - 09:00 ~ 20:00 Closed - Jan. 1, Every First Monday Admission Fee - Free BUSAN MODERN HISTORY MUSEUM 104, Daechung-ro, Jung-gu, Busan tel: 051-253-3845 web: www.modern.busan.go.kr Opening Hours - 09:00 ~ 18:00 Closed - Jan.1, Every First Monday Admission Fee - Free BUSAN MUSEUM 63, UN Peace-ro, Nam-gu, Busan tel: 051-610-7111 web: www.museum.busan.go.kr Hours of operation - 09:00 ~ 20:00 Closed - Jan. 1, Every First Monday Admission fee - Free BUSAN UN MEMORIAL CEMETERY AND PARK 779, Daeyon 4 dong, Nam-gu, Busan tel: 051-625-0625 web: www.unmck.or.kr Hours of operation - 09:00 ~ 17:00 Open Year Round Admission fee - Free

SHOPPING

DEPT. STORES LOTTE DEPT. STORE www.lotteshopping.com Open: 10:30 ~ 20:00 FOUR LOCATIONS CENTUM CITY 1496, U Dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan tel: 051-730-2500 DONGNAE 502-3, Oncheonjeong, Dongnae-gu, Busan tel: 051-605-2500 GWANGBOK 20-1, 7 ga, Jung-ang Dong, Jung-gu, Busan tel: 051-678-2500 SEOMYEON Bujeondong, Busan-jingu, Busan tel: 051-810-2500 HYUNDAI DEPT. STORE 62-5, Beomil-dong, Dong-gu, Busan tel: 051-667-2233 Open: 10:30 ~ 20:00 SHINSEGAE DEPT. STORE (CENTUM CITY) 1495 Wu-dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan tel: 1588-1234 web: www.english.shinsegae.com Open: 10:30 ~ 20:00

CLOTHING/SPORTS KAI SURF SHOP 183-11 Gwangan-dong, Suyeong-gu tel: 051-753-2746

OTHER SERVICES ISCENT tel: 051-504-7735 web: www.iscent.co.kr e-mail : iscentbs@naver.com iScent provides perfect fragrance rendering via a non-invasive, elective consumer accepted delivery method. With fragrance being an important factor in distinguishing your brand from the competition, iScent is the smartest way to gain a marketing advantage. Call today to join one of Koreaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s leading choices to make your business create a customer experience around your brand, your products, and even your people.

SOCIAL/NON-PROFIT ORGANIZATIONS BUSAN BANDITS RUGBY Facebook Group: Busan Bandits BUSAN BOOK SWAP Facebook Group: Busan Book Swap BUSAN BOWLING LEAGUE

Humetro Call Center Lost & Found Center

56 HAPS_summer 2013

Seomyeon Stn.

Contact: David Alderman tel: 010.7919.1223 Facebook Group: Busan Bowling League BUSAN FOUNDATION FOR INTERNATIONAL ACTIVITIES tel: 051-668-7900 web: www.bfia.or.kr BUSAN FRIENDSHIP GROUP www.meetup.com/Pusans ULTIMATE FRISBEE LEAGUE Email: ch.pyles@gmail.com BTC FOOTBALL FB Group: Busan Transportation Corporation Supporters Fanpage EPIK TEACHERS IN BUSAN Facebook Group: Busan EPIK EXPAT SAILING CLUB Contact: Mark Chi email: Koreasailing@gmail.com web: www.busansailing.com LAOCHRA BUSAN GAELIC ATHLETIC ASSOCIATION CLUB Contact: Peter Bonner email: busangaa@gmail.com Facebook Group: Laochra Busan Members

web: www.indianshopkorea.com NICE MARKET web: www.nicemarket.net

FAST FOOD MCDONALDS tel: 1600-5252 web: www.mcdonalds.co.kr LOTTERIA tel: 1600-9999 web: www.lotteria.com BURGER KING No delivery web: www.burgerking.co.kr KFC No delivery web: www.kfckorea.com QUIZNOS No delivery web: www.quiznos.co.kr DUNKIN DONUTS No delivery web: www.dunkindonuts.co.kr BASKIN ROBBINS No delivery web: www.baskinrobbins.co.kr

GROCERIES

Bar/Pub/Lounge Restaurant

04 d

Good Plus

Geumje

PNU BARS/PUBS/LOUNGES 01 Thirsty Moose 02 Wa Bar 03 Basement 04 Crossroads 04 Soultrane 05 Red Bottle 06 Interplay 07 Moo Monk 08 Bling RESTAURANTS 01 Won Chon 02 The Box 03 Tajmahal CAFES 01 Angel-In-Us 02 Charlie Brown 03 Twosome Place 04 Starbucks 05 Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf

ong Roa

Cafe

08 02

PNU Main Gate

Busan Bank Pusan National Uni. Road

02 04 03 02

Business

01 3

INDIAN SHOP

LEGEND

PNU Subway Stn

EZSHOP KOREA web: www.ezshopkorea.com FATBAG web: www.fatbag.co.kr IHERB web: www.iherb.com HIGH STREET MARKET open: 24/7 online, Seoul in-store 10am to 10pm daily. tel: 02-2201-0652 web: highstreet.co.kr email: hsmonline@authenticgroup.co.kr High Street Market has all your favorite foods from home ready for delivery to your workplace or doorstep for just W3,000! Hard-to-find western foods, sliced-to-order deli meats, imported premium cuts of meat, gourmet cheeses, variety of spices, homemade vegan & gluten free foods and more.

Club

[PUSAN NATIONAL UNIVERSITY]

INTERNET GROCERIES

Business

PNU

LEGEND

Geumjeong Ro

COSTCO web: www.costco.co.kr E-MART web: www.emart.com HOMEPLUS web: www.homeplus.co.kr MEGAMART web: www.megamart.co.kr

Bar/Pub/Lounge Restaurant Cafe

2013 summer_ busanhaps.com 57

The Last Word

Tharp On:

Family By Chris

Tharp Illustration By Michael Roy

There comes a time in every man’s life when he thinks more deeply about family and what it means to him. In Korea, that responsibility extends even after death. “Royal Baby Arrives!” This is the headline that greeted me after returning from a camping trip in which I was entirely off the grid. For one solid week, neither newspapers nor computer monitors taxed my sun-blazed eyes. I was wonderfully ignorant of the happenings of the world outside my immediate sensory zone, but now, once again, I was an informed citizen. And here was my first nugget: after nine months of blissful swimming in his mother’s very posh womb (I’m told that Kate Middleton’s amniotic fluid was a mix of Perrier and Cristal), the Little Prince Boy George had finally slid out the regal pathway into this big, crazy world. Who cares, right? A royal baby? What makes this sprog more important than any of the other 370,000 popped forth on the same day? Sure, he was ushered into a clan of obscenely wealthy, horsey-looking people, but isn’t “royalty” an arbitrary determination? After all, this is the 21st century. It strains credulity that some countries still have kings and queens and duchesses and princes. We may not be flying around with jetpacks, but ridiculous notions such as “royal families” should have been discarded onto

the dung heap of history a long while back. Thankfully, some have tried. The USA and much of Latin America cast theirs off through open rebellion; the French beheaded their royals, while the Russians machine-gunned theirs in 1917. Many, such as myself, consider these bloody acts a pretty good start. Yes, the Royal Family is a dumb, frivolous thing, but... they are still a family. Take away the crowns, palaces, decked-out Range Rovers and shallow gene pools, and you have a group of people bound by blood who love one another very much. Okay, maybe they don’t all actually love each other, but they’re stuck together, whether they like it or not. “Tough titty,” as my buddy’s white trash grandpa used to say. Being stuck together is the very definition of family. And when I took in the photo of William and Kate holding that very privileged little spawn, for just a moment, all the titles and aristocratic bells and whistles evaporated: I only saw a pair of adoring parents who were obviously thrilled to be starting a family. This idea of family has been on my mind lately. I write this from my hometown in America, where I am lucky to be spending a

AFTER NINE MONTHS OF BLISSFUL SWIMMING IN HIS MOTHER’S VERY POSH WOMB, THE LITTLE PRINCE BOY GEORGE HAD FINALLY SLID OUT THE REGAL PATHWAY INTO THIS BIG, CRAZY WORLD.

58 HAPS_summer 2013

Advertorial good chunk of the summer. The first week of the visit was spent entirely with my family, which was enthralling, satisfying and aggravating all at the same time. We ate like the pack of chunky Americans we are, drank soft drinks and beer, played endless rounds of croquet and posed for more photographs than red carpet walkers at the Academy Awards. (This digital age has turned the modern family into a veritable herd of paparazzi.) Old beefs and annoyances were cast aside; everyone was all hugs and smiles—even those couple of family members who have unfriended me on Facebook. What struck me about this recent convergence of the family Tharp was how many new ones there were: a whole passel of young ‘uns frolicked about. Many of them had come into the world during my tenure in Korea, so it was my first time to see them. I had always counted myself among the family’s youth contingent, but things had changed: my generation of brothers, sisters, and cousins had now crossed over into the “old aunts and uncles” department. We were now a bunch of pudgy gray hairs and must have appeared positively ancient to the new guard. Welcome to Geezerville. Pretty soon these kids will be changing our diapers. In Korea, family is everything. Personal happiness lay subservient to the well-being of the family as a whole. These very Confucian notions of hierarchy, sacrifice and filial piety form the bedrock on which this society was constructed. These ties run deep in Korea, and can often turn into fetters. Many young Koreans cast off their own dreams in order to pursue a life path that will please their parents. While generally cared for until marriage (which often happens at the parents’ behest: “You must get married this year!”), Korean children are expected, in turn, to return the duty when mom and dad go geriatric. These responsibilities are even extended after death, with labor-intensive ancestral rites performed several times a year. And it used to be much more extreme. In days past, the eldest son was required to live in a hut next to his parents grave’s for three full years after their deaths, tending to them daily. This is dedication. Being a member of a Korean family is kind of like being in the mafia. All problems are dealt with internally. You will be protected and taken care of, but you can never, ever leave. I have now married into a Korean family, though mine is smaller and less conventional than others. We visit my mother-inlaw’s apartment periodically, where I am presented with dizzying piles of home-cooked food employing liberal amounts of pepper paste and sea tentacles. I am lucky enough, however, to not have to spend the whole of the big holidays with the extended clan. Some of my married friends have to endure these gatherings, where they sit on painful wooden floors for days on end, watch TV dramas and numb themselves with rice wine, while waiting for that one stink-eyed uncle lurking in the corner to unleash his inner racist after his third bottle of soju. So, this upcoming Chuseok, while my other married buddies look ridiculous in their hanboks, gorge on bland rice cakes and prostrate themselves in front of fruit platters and photos of stony-faced relatives they’ve never met, I’ll be away with my wife, up in the mountains, once again off the grid, where just maybe we’ll spark the fire and start a little family of our own. 2013 summer_ busanhaps.com 59

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