2002-present: Associate professor, The Sahlgrenska Academy, University of Gothenburg, Sweden, Professor Young-Taeg Sul graduated Seoul National University in 1987 and received his Ph.D. degree from University of Gothenburg, Sweden in 2002, following a professorship at the Sahlgrenska Academy, University of Gothenburg, Sweden. Hashas received widespread recognition, including more than 70 papers in international journals, more than 20 implant-related international patents, and more than 70 invited lectures to professional audiences all over the world. He has been serving as a reviewer for several international scientific journals and is an external expert on international academic positions including clinical research consultant (THE USA DENTAC & THE UNITED STATES ARMY), external and internal chief technology officer or consultant for several implant-oriented commercial companies. Other international awards include several Best Top 10 conference papers (UK 2001, USA 2002, USA 2006), most cited article, top 3 (Med Eng Phys, 2010). In Google Scholar, Professor Sul’s articles show a total of 2695 science citations, since 2001.
It’s Your Choice • 36 years of proud history caring for the specialist needs of the women of Busan. • English service is available for OB/GYN and Plastic Surgery departments. • Native English speaking coordinator is available upon request. We can also provide Chinese, Japanese and Russian translators. • Insurance claims can be made on behalf of patients to our partner insurance companies Euro-Center, MSH CHINA, Metlife, Bupa. • 24 hours emergency rooms are available at Good Moonhwa and our partner hospitals Good Gang-an & Good Samsun. Fertility Center
Getting Back Your Baby Face While aging is a natural process, we don’t necessarily have to like its physical results. New procedures are available to help turn back the hands of time and restore that youthful glow.
A
s people advance in age, it is natural that the contours of the face begin to sag and droop. And while the rest of the body gains weight, facial volume often does not recover. This is behind patients’ increasing interest to restore their facial volume. Recently, various procedures that can increase facial volume and smooth out facial skin have been introduced. Among them, both autologous fat transfer and stem cell transplant procedures have become more popular. Autologous fat transfer is a surgical procedure that smooths out facial skin by increasing elasticity and restoring the natural facial line. This is done by transferring unnecessary fat from the lower abdomen, the hips, or the thighs using a specially designed syringe that separates the pure fats before grafting them into wrinkled or shrunken areas of the face. Because the fat is taken from the patient’s own body, autologous fat transfer has fewer side effects and its outcome is more natural compared to surgical procedures using artificial implants or synthetic materials. Autologous fat transfer has the additional advantage of reshaping the body itself by removing fat in the fleshy lower abdomen, hips and thighs. Once fat is removed, it can be stored and transferred again later. Because only autologous tissue is used, the graft site retains its previous smoothness, and it is a simple surgery that results in almost no scarring or bleeding. Although fat is taken directly from the patient’s own body, there is a chance that the graft survival rate will be low. The graft survival rate, which dictates the success of fulfilling the patient’s objectives, is the ratio of grafted tissue that survives when transferred into facial tissue. One way to maximize the ef-
image
fect is through the use of stem cells. All fat cells contain stem cells, and if fat cells extracted from the abdomen or other donor sites are transferred immediately to the face, the effect of stem cells, which proliferate and are maintained according to any cellular situation, cannot realize their full potential. Therefore, only when stem cells are separated using a stateof-the-art stem cell extractor and are then mixed with pure fat cells and injected into the face, can the graft survival rate be increased. This method can increase the graft survival rate of fat cells by up to 60 - 70%, and once engrafted, these cells will survive semi-permanently, with the facial anti-aging effects lasting for more than 10 years. As the extraction of stem cells is a complicated process, sterile facilities must be well-equipped, and the staff’s know-how of extracting and processing tissue is essential to carry out the safe surgical procedure customized for an individual. Thus, it is necessary to be careful when selecting a hospital. There also are precautions in autologous fat transfer. If an excessive amount of fat is injected or the patient’s physical condition is too sensitive, the following side effects may occur: a lump of fat may be necrotized, the facial surface may become rough, or the graft site may suffer severe swelling, a lump or a bruise. This is why choosing a highly trained doctor is key. The most important thing is to obtain the desired facial ‘volume-up’ effect by maintaining the high graft survival rate even with a small amount of fat cells. Those who elect to have this surgery need to have sufficient consultation and accurate diagnosis before the procedure begins, and then undergo autologous fat transfer safely and naturally without unreasonable expectations. Although autologous fat transfer may lead to the desired dramatic outcomes - such as a higher forehead, smoother facial contours and improved nasolabial folds - the side effects may prevent complete satisfaction. These can often be avoided when post-surgical instructions and treatments are strictly followed. After autologous fat transfer, it is advisable to get enough sleep and to eat well for the first three months as well as to avoid excessive drinking and smoking. For more information, please contact Coordinator Seo Mi-young at 051-630-0123/010-9345-4556.
CONTENTS FEATURES
A Tale of Two Cities | 20 Operation Beautiful | 22 Places to See in Korea | 24
REGULARS
Events: The Big Five | 12 The Haps: Word on the Street | 14 News: In the News | 16 Material World | 18 Tharp On: Motorcycles | 54
SPORT
The Master | 34
TRAVEL
My, My, My Barcelona | 30 Busan’s Beaches | 32
COMMUNITY
Medical Tourism Centers Spring Up Around Korea | 36 Spin, DJ, Spin | 37 Haeundae’s New Seaside Attraction | 37
BUSINESS SPOTLIGHT California RePublic | 38 CJ Hellovision Teams up with Google | 37
FOOD
Shinae | 40 Patbingsu| 41
ART & CULTURE
Interview: David A. Mason | 42
DIRECTORY/GUIDES Hotel News & Directory | 44 Directory | 46-52 Busan Metro Map | 52 Area Maps | 46-53 THIS PAGE; Picturesque houses at Tibidabo mount, Barcelona. 8
HAPS_summer 2014
EDITOR’S LETTER
Y
ou’ll be hard pressed to find any indication of it in the following pages, but between you, me and several thousand others, this issue marks the 5th Anniversary of Haps. Five years of four guys: myself, Michael Schneider, Jeff Liebsch and Russell McConnell, joined by an extensive community of writers, photographers, and artists, putting something together that, from this vantage point, seems an unimaginable length of time. OK, now I quit. No, but seriously...Happy Birthday, Haps. This issue, as with the past 30, is full of great stuff. The cover story offers up five places that you must go in Korea before you’re allowed to leave. In short, these are the places that you need to visit before you can confidently look someone in the eye back home and say that you know Korea. Issue 31 also serves up some informative articles on life here on the peninsula. James Turnbull looks at the efforts
of ‘body-image activist’ Min-ji Kim, who is hard at work trying to stem the tide of an increasingly image-conscious world. Author Shivaji Das’s piece, A Tale of Two Cities, looks at a day in the life of two of Korea’s most prominent expat enclaves. Hal Swindall has put his diner’s pen aside this issue and takes a look at Korean Buddhism with David A. Mason, author of An Encyclopedia of Korean Buddhism, and Marius Stankiewicz interviews Rafal Olenski, Polish-born and former world international taekwondo champion. As usual, there is a ton of stuff about great food, events, things to do and a wealth of other information to get you where you need to go in Korea. On behalf of all of us at Haps who have dedicated ourselves to putting this thing together over the past five years, thank you for your continued support. Without you, none of this would have been possible.
ON THE COVER Haps’ 31st issue features five places that you have to see in Korea before you can go back home and tell people that you have “been to Korea.” Cover image by Chris Cusick. Image on this page courtesy of photodune.
WHAT’S INSIDE
THE
BEST OF
BARCELONA
30
Most of us living in Korea choose Asian-based destinations for our holiday travel. Why not log a little more flight time and head over to Europe?
H Regulars
CONTRIBUTORS JEN SOTHAM Haps culture editor and food writer Jen hails from New York and has been eating her way through Busan since 2006. The first phrase she learned in Korean was chal-mo-gu-sum-ni-da.
KELVIN BRASSBRIDGE II Kelvin is an American graphic designer from the state of Maine. He has lived in Busan with his wife, dog and cat for three years. He has never been abducted by a UFO, so don’t bring it up if you ever meet him.
AMY STEELE Copy editor Amy, an avowed sucker for slow blues tunes and cheap red wine, spent the better part of the last decade working in advertising and PR. A newbie to both Busan and Haps, she’s returned to her journalism roots and feels right at home.
JAMES TURNBULL Since coming to Korea in 2000, James has become widely known for his highly regarded blog The Grand Narrative where he examines gender issues. He lives in Busan with his wife and two daughters, Alice and Elizabeth.
SETH FELLENZ Haps music editor Seth Fellenz has moved from Wisconsin to Busan twice. When he’s not busy playing screen golf or grocery shopping, you can find him around town laughing at his own jokes, some of which are pretty funny.
CHRIS THARP
Chris hails from Washington State and has lived in Busan for over six years. When not banging on a guitar or screaming into a microphone, he likes to write. If you buy him a drink, he’ll tell you all about the times he met Kurt Cobain, but you probably already know the story.
CHRISTY SWAIN A fashion-loving girl, this Kiwi would like to divide her time between Paris and Milan, but for now, she’ll settle for Busan, browsing the vintage stores of Seomyeon or the High St. in Nampo-dong.
10 HAPS_summer 2014
PUBLISHER Ju Shin-hye EDITOR IN CHIEF Bobby McGill SALES DIRECTOR Michael Schneider MANAGING EDITOR Jeff Liebsch CULTURE EDITOR Jen Sotham
ART DIRECTOR Russell McConnell WEBMASTER Danny Himes
FASHION EDITOR Christy Swain MUSIC EDITOR Seth Fellenz COPY EDITOR Amy Steele WRITERS: Chris Tharp James Turnbull Christy Swain Jeff Liebsch Bobby McGill Dr. Jaesong Koo Shivaji Das Marius Stankiewicz John Dunphy Anthony Velasquez Hal Swindall TRANSLATION: Junnie Ahn
DESIGNERS: Kelvin Brassbridge II PHOTOGRAPHERS: Chris Cusick Scott Rotzoll Vincent Carvalho Jisu Lim Marius Stankiewicz Stinkie Pinkie Jason Teale Jamie Alexander ILLUSTRATORS: Michael Roy ACCOUNTS SERVICES Bak Seon-mi
INTERN: Ji-woon Ko
Follow us @busanhaps Busan Haps Magazine SUBMISSIONS BUSAN HAPS busanhaps@gmail.com Summer 2014 Issue 31 BUSINESS REGISTRATION ADVERTISING mikey.busanhaps@gmail.com NUMBER: 00001 FIRST PUBLICATION DATE: Sept, 2, 2009 OFFICE ADDRESS: Pale de CZ, 2-19, Jung Dong 1124-2, Haeundae-gu Busan, Republic of Korea
DISCLAIMER: The opinions in the magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher. Questions or comments: busanhaps@gmail.com ©2014 Busan Haps Magazine
WISH WE WERE THERE GREAT EVENTS HAPPENING ALL AROUND THE GLOBE. HERE’S A COUPLE WE WISH WE COULD GET TO.
STONEHENGE SUMMER SOLSTICE WILTSHIRE, ENGLAND, JUNE 18-22 The mythological stone sculptures of Wiltshire County, England attract thousands to watch the sunrise and worship the sun during the northern hemisphere’s shortest night of the year. As it’s one of the few times of the year that visitors are actually allowed to touch the stones, revelers feel a spiritual connection and grounding force from the mere physical contact with these religious rocks.
EXIT FESTIVAL NOVI SAD, SERBIA, JULY 9-13 The wild, all-out, all-night, every night music festival takes place on the banks of the Danube at Novi Sad’s 17th century island fortress. The event mixes up radical politics, a beautiful setting and unparalleled musical offerings. With over 16 stages filled with top-notch musicians, a dance party each night after 2 a.m. features electronic acts performing until dawn with allnight revelers partying into the wee hours of the morning.
FIND US ON
6
THE WEB HERE www.busanhaps.com 2014 summer _ busanhaps.com 11
H Regulars
Events & Culture
BUSAN CHINATOWN FESTIVAL JUNE 13-15 Entering its 11th year and rescheduled after the Sewol ferry accident, the Busan Chinatown Special Zone Cultural Festival brings a taste of Asia’s largest country to Choryang, Dong-gu district, which is located across from Busan Station. Street performances, exhibitions, food and plenty of musical performances are on offer at the three-day festival, which is the biggest gathering of the Chinese community in the city each year. www.chinatown-f.com
THE
BIG
FIVE
VIENNA CHAMBER ORCHESTRA JUNE 17
BORYEONG MUD FESTIVAL JULY 18-27
BUSAN INT. KIDS’ FILM FESTIVAL JULY 23-27
Founded in 1946 and based at the Vienna Konzerthaus, the Austrian-based Vienna Chamber Orchestra will host a series of concerts around the peninsula, including in Daegu on June 12 and Changwon on the 13th, before embarking on their Busan performance on the 17th at the Busan Cultural Center. Pianist Lim Dong-hyek and violinists Richard Yongjae O’Neill and Kang Clara-Jumi join the orchestra for a night of Mozart under the artistic direction of Stefan Vladar.
Arguably the largest and most popular international festival in the country, the 17th Boryeong Mud Festival pays homage to the mixture of water and soil. Daecheon Beach in Chungcheongnam Province becomes a brief home to mud wrestling, sliding and swimming in a mega mud-tub. Over the festival’s 10 days, one can also spot night concerts, fireworks, a mud marathon, painting and mud massages. www.mudfestival.or.kr
Now in its 9th year, BiKi is a collection of creative domestic and foreign short and feature films. A competitive section of movies made by children are just a sampling of the five-day event, which also includes special exhibitions and cultural performances, concerts, seminars and a playground around the Busan Cinema Center. Under this year’s theme, “Ready Action,” the film festival is highly regarded internationally as one of the best in Asia. www.biki.or.kr
BUSAN SEA FESTIVAL AUGUST 1-7 The 19th Busan Sea Festival encompases a week’s worth of festivals all rolled into one around the five major beaches located in the city limits. Composed of five different event themes, the festival brings music, marine sports and local and international performers to the more than 35 scheduled events that take place. Gwangalli and Haeundae beaches are home to the majority of events, which have made the festival one of the most anticipated every summer. www.seafestival.co.kr
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PLEASE NOTE: DATES FOR EVENTS ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE.
Out & About
NEW ZEALAND
WINE FEST 2014
Photos by
Jason Teale
After last year’s highly successful debut of the New Zealand Wine Festival in Busan, the Kiwi Chamber of Commerce decided to do it again. It was an even bigger hit this year with 300 plus in attendance. If you missed it this time around, see you there next year!
2014 summer _ busanhaps.com 13
H Regulars
WORD ON THE STREET BIFF RELEASES ITS 2014 POSTER The 19th Busan International Film Festival (BIFF) selected its official poster, which is based on the original work Emotion1/4 Y.R.G.W by Korean ‘painted sculpture’ artist Lee Hyuck-jin and designed by BIFF’s art director, Choi Soon-dae. Emotion1/4 Y.R.G.W is a painted sculpture produced by combining pictures and long pieces cut from boards made of fiber on top of resin. They were assembled by entwining horizontal and vertical pieces, much like traditional Korean basket weaving, followed by painting on the surface. The ‘togetherness’ of films, audiences and cineastes is represented by the intertwined pieces, and the bright colors reflect the celebratory nature of the Busan International Film Festival. This year’s installment of BIFF takes place from October 2 - 11.
DID YOU KNOW? THE FIRST MCDONALD’S DRIVE-THRU IN KOREA OPENED IN HAEUNDAE IN 1992. BETWEEN 1992 AND 1997, THE NUMBER OF CARS REGISTERED IN KOREA DOUBLED FROM 5 TO 10 MILLION. THE ORGANISATION FOR ECONOMIC CO-OPERATION AND DEVELOPMENT (OECD) HAS DECLARED SOUTH KOREA AS THE COUNTRY WITH THE HIGHEST ESTIMATED NATIONAL IQ. SHIN SAIM-DONG, THE WOMAN ON THE 50,000 WON BILL IS THE MOTHER OF LEE YOL-GOK (YI I), THE MAN ON THE 5,000 WON BILL.
OVERHEARD
THE TRIGRAMS ON EACH CORNER OF THE KOREAN FLAG SYMBOLIZE THE UNIVERSAL ELEMENTS HEAVEN, EARTH, FIRE AND WATER.
FIRST PHASE OF THE BIFC COMPLETED The long-awaited opening of the Busan International Finance Center (BIFC) in Munhyeon-dong arrives on June 26, as the newest skyscraper to grace the city’s landscape opens its doors to house key financial institutions, including the main branch of the Busan Bank, the Busan branch of the Bank of Korea and the Korea Technology Finance Corporation. The second phase of the project involves constructing officetels and commercial facilities, and the third phase consists of residential officetels and a business hotel, according to the city newspaper, Dynamic Busan. The futuristic Landmark Tower, which boasts 63 floors and is 289 meters high, reflects the city’s aspirations to become a regional hub for international finance markets. When completed in 2019, the BIFC will act as a new type of multi-functional complex, combining financial, accommodation, retail, shopping and cultural facilities.
“The team is young compared to previous squads, but I don’t think they are behind in terms of experience and talent.” South Korean national football coach Hong Myung-bo on his team’s chances at the 2014 World Cup.
“I express very strong regret that North Korea makes such provocations at a time when our people are in deep sadness after the Sewol disaster.” President Park Geun-hye after North Korea fired two artillery shells over the Northern Limit Line (NLL) in late May.
14 HAPS_summer 2014
Community & Living
BUSAN’S NEW PLAZA The latest in the city’s key projects to open to the public is the Song Sang-hyeon Plaza, the country’s largest, which opened June 12. Set to become one of the most picturesque parts of the city, the 34,000-square-meter urban center in the heart of the city encompasses Jeonpo-dong and Yangjeong-dong in Busanjin-gu and is nearly 50% larger than Gwanghwamun Square in Seoul. Features of the new area include a forested area, performance areas, cafes and a Sunken Plaza where local artists can display their art. The plaza is set to become one of the city’s newest locations to host a myriad of events throughout the year.
IPARK’S KEEPER HEADS TO BRAZIL Busan IPark goalkeeper Lee Beum-young was one of six domestic football league members selected to represent Korea at the 2014 Brazil World Cup, underway June 12. The 25-year-old Lee gained national fame at the 2012 London Olympics when he was a late injury substitution in the quarterfinals against Great Britain. He knocked the hosts out after a save on Daniel Sturridge’s fifth shot in the penalty shootout, sending Korea to their first ever semi-final appearance. South Korea sent their youngest and tallest squad ever this year, with an average age of 25.9 years and an average height of 184 cm. They face a tough challenge in Group H with Belgium, Russia and Algeria all looking to advance. Korea is the lowest seed in the group, currently ranked 55th in the world.
South Korea World Cup Fixtures June 18 Korea vs. Russia - 7 a.m. June 23 Korea vs. Algeria - 4 a.m. June 27 Korea vs. Belgium - 5 a.m. 2014 summer _ busanhaps.com 15
H Regulars
IN THE NEWS NO CHEESE FOR YOU!
S. KOREA BIDS FOR 2019 WOMEN’S WORLD CUP South Korea is looking to add another major sporting event to its resume, as the country has entered the race to win the rights to host the 2019 FIFA Women’s World Cup along with four other countries. England, France, New Zealand and South Africa, as well as South Korea, submitted their letters of intent to host the games, which are held every four years. The Korea Football Association said it has applied for the games to further promote women’s football and to raise national interest in the sport. South Korean women are currently 18th in the world rankings. The host for the 2019 games will be decided at the first FIFA executive committee meeting in 2015. The 2015 Women’s World Cup, to be held in Canada, is set to grow from 16 to 24 countries and from 32 to 52 matches, where Japan, who became the first Asian nation to win the Women’s World Cup in 2011, look to defend their title. South Africa, which has already been awarded to host the 2016 U-20 Women’s World Cup, may have a slight advantage in the bidding as the governing body of world football, FIFA, says that in principle, it prefers one nation to stage both events.
North Korean leader Kim Jong-un’s love of fromage apparently is not being met in the reclusive state. So what does the Dear Leader do when he can’t get good-quality cheese in his country? He sends three envoys to France to learn from the best. And that’s just what happened this past April, when officials from North Korea visited the National Dairy Industry College (ENIL), based in Mamirolle in Franche-Comté, in the hope of sending experts to the college to be trained to produce high-quality cheese. The small school, which trains about 600 students, including international students from as far away as Morocco, Russia and Senegal, politely declined the North Korean request, citing a lack of space in the class, though many suspect other reasons for the denial. The refusal came as a huge disappointment to North Korea’s supreme leader, who is said to have developed a strong penchant for Switzerland’s Emmental cheese while studying in the country during his formative years.
CATCH ME IF YOO CAN Yoo Byung-eun, the de facto owner of the sunken Sewol ferry, is on the run, making him the most wanted man in the country. The 73-year-old ferry patriarch was charged with tax evasion and embezzlement among his alleged illegal business practices, such as overloading ships, leading to the April 16 Sewol ferry tragedy, which left over 300 dead or missing. The Incheon Metropolitan Police Agency distributed wanted flyers to 250 police precincts across the country for Yoo and his eldest son Dae-gyun, who is a major shareholder of Chonghaejin Marine Company, the holding company of the ferry operator. His daughter, Seom-na, was arrested in France on May 27 and is facing extradition procedures, while his youngest son, who currently lives overseas, also faces an arrest warrant and has had his passport revoked by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. The massive manhunt brought over 150 of the country’s most experienced detectives and police officers to search for the father and son, with tens of thousands of posters of the pair plastered in public places around the country. A 500-millionwon reward is offered for the whereabouts of Yoo, with an additional 100 million for his son. The arresting officers also have been promised a promotion of one rank if they capture either of the elusive pair. 16 HAPS_summer 2014
Korea & World News
REUNIFICATION TOO COSTLY FOR SOME Though the Park Geun-hye government has been keen to bring up the on-again, off-again topic of reunification, not everyone in the country is hopeful of the two Koreas reuniting anytime soon, according to a new poll. Statistics suggest that many people in South Korea are opposed to reunification, although primarily because of the cost. The poll, commissioned by Seoul National University, showed that four out of 10 South Koreans are not willing to cover the costs of reunification. A government think tank has estimated that the initial cost of reunification may be as high as US $1 trillion, mostly because of the lack of infrastructure in the North. Others say the number may be even higher. While reunification is official policy in both the North and South, South Korean presidents have often touted its political, social and ethical value to balance the considerable cost of absorbing the North, according to the BBC. The Chosun Ilbo also conducted a survey that showed only just over 30% of the nation thought the benefits of reunification would outweigh the costs, and more than two-thirds did not expect it to benefit individual South Koreans directly. President Park Geun-hye has advocated for reunification as a potential economic ‘bonanza,’ though she admitted public interest in unification has declined in an interview with Bloomberg News in January.
2014 summer _ busanhaps.com 17
H Regulars
MATERIAL WORLD EXPENSIVE BIKES: JUST BECAUSE
Whether tooling around the side streets of Korea or taking to the open road, a bike can be a friend and a faithful steed. How much you’re willing to pay for that friendship is up to you, but allow us to introduce you to a few of the high-end rollers.
LYNSKEY LITESPEED C1 The Lynskey website reads: “We’re located in the quiet town of Chattanooga, Tennessee but the bikes we make are anything but that.” OK, so they need a better copywriter on the website, but if you’re looking for something solid to mount, Lynskey has you covered. Peninsula-side, their bikes will run you from 5 million won up to a cool 15 million. Still reading? The Litespeed company, founded by the Lynskey family, specializes in titanium and carbon-fiber frames. Lance Armstrong rode a Litespeed Blade, painted and labeled as a Trek brand bike, during the 1999 Tour de France time trials. Apparently, this is not uncommon, as pro cyclists would rather ride a Litespeed frame over that made by their sponsors. Buy online or ask your local dealer where you can pick one up. www.lynskeyperformance.com
STRIDA Strida is one of the lightest, fastest folding bicycles on the market. It comes with a sturdy, yet light-weight aluminum frame, solid components and a kevlar belt, rather than a chain. A plus being that you can say goodbye to grease and grime (in case you want to bicycle to your wedding). A more likely advantage of the kevlar belt is that it never needs to be adjusted. And whatever worries you might have about the belt breaking, forget about it - the material is the same used by Harley Davidson on its slightly more torque-heavy, two-wheeled, noise pollution machines. (Editor’s note: This is in no way meant to offend Harley riders. While the roar has run its course and seen its day, we do respect that a great many Harley riders are larger than some of our staff combined.) Depending on the model, Strida will run you between 600,000 to 800,000 won. www.strida.com
BROMPTON Founded in 1976 and based in Greater London, the Brompton company makes the sturdy line of foldable bikes that you see more and more people tooling around town on. With a superb ride, the bike can be folded into a carry-on in 20 seconds. Albeit a heavy carry-on, it does make for a convenient set of wheels in suburbia. With a price tag that’ll run you over 2 million won, you’ll probably want to keep it in your bedroom. You can check out a wide selection of Bromptons at Cafe 6ixmiles in Marine City. The generously open corner location just off the water also serves as a rest spot for large numbers of weekend riders. facebook.com/cafe6miles 18 HAPS_summer 2014
Gadgets & Gear
PLAYDATE BIKE CLUB STANDARD SINGLE SPEED BICYCLE Ride around like a real playa. Shoulders back, hands resting atop the handlebars. It’s cruise time. Courtesy of our Japanese neighbors comes Playdate Bike Club, what they refer to as a “mixture of throwback style and high-performance components - presenting a uniquely nostalgic, modern bicycle that looks good and rides better.” And, it’s got the cool name to boot. This highrider city cruiser will run you over a million won, but you will surely ride off the sticker shock after a few leisurely kilometers. facebook.com/playdatebikeclubjapan
BURLEY BICYCLE TRAILER A car has a trunk, so why shouldn’t your bike have one? We don’t advise putting your kid in the trunk, but you can safely put them in the Burley Bicycle Trailer. No kids? Then throw your tent and sleeping bag in there and head up the coast for a few days of riding and camping. If you treat your gear like your child and want it to ride comfortably and safely, then you’ll be glad to know that the Burley comes with a padded, hammock-style seat, a lightweight aluminum frame and a five-point harness system. We’re not sure how much better that is than a four-point harness system, but hell, you can never be too careful with the safety of your sleeping bag. You can pick one up online or at a local bike shop for just under a million won. www.burley.com
DAHON D7 OBSIDIAN Dahon is another of the folding bikes genus, featuring some of the most popular folders on the market. Former physicist Dr. David Hon spent seven years in his Los Angeles garage perfecting the first Dahon bike. His founding mission was to “make a greener world.” Being green ain’t cheap, so look to plop down over a million won for the good doctor, whose highly regarded bicycles now occupy two-thirds of the folding bike market worldwide, having won Europe’s prestigious Eurobike award three times at the world’s largest international bike show. It folds up in a few simple steps and is built with the highest quality components, so you can pass it down to the grandkid someday. www.dahon.com 2014 summer _ busanhaps.com 19
HInside
STORY
A Tale of Two Cities: Ansan and Itaewon
Story & Photos By Shivaji
Das
Ansan: the industrial cluster. Itaewon: a center for expat entertainment. Both migrant outposts in a homogenous Korea, with their own take on the foreign worker’s life.
Ansan, the ‘Multicultural City’; Itaewon, the ‘Western Town’: what makes them so special in an otherwise largely homogenous Korea? I head first to Ansan, an hour’s journey from Seoul by train. Most migrants reside at Wongok-Dong, ‘The Borderless Village.’ Along a narrow lane, glass storefront windows are crowded with signage in English, Vietnamese, Chinese, Russian, Thai and Bengali. They are selling Sichuan chili, curry powder, sambal paste and phone cards - cheapest rates, maximum talk time and money transfers - lots of money transfers. The crowd is slowly moving along this lane, branded ‘Multicultural Food Street.’ A Christian group, all dressed in orange, is distributing pamphlets. I hear Mandarin everywhere. The steam clouds rising from stacks of Chinese dumplings set the mood. Ansan’s Wongok-Dong is not a global village but a Chinese village. I meet Park Jungan from the Migrant Community Service Center. She tells me that of the 761,000 residents in Ansan, 7.6% are foreigners, as opposed to the national average of 2.2%. Migrants from 78 countries are represented here, but over 70% of them are of Chinese or Korean descent. The rest are primarily Uzbeks, Vietnamese, Indonesians, Russians, Filipinos, Nepali, Thai and Sri Lankans. Park explains, “Koreans are used to a homogenous society. But we need foreigners for the three ‘D’ jobs – dirty, dangerous and demeaning. We help migrants assimilate by organizing sports and cultural events, providing multilingual counselling services, conducting language 20 HAPS_summer 2014
classes and running a shelter for migrant women who run away from abusive husbands.” Around the small town, elderly Chinese men are playing chess, cards or Jianzi. Many have gathered at the town square to listen to a city official’s speech. I ask two Nepali men listening attentively, “Do you understand Korean?” “No,” they smile. “We are just killing time.” A group of 10 Bangladeshis are going to Seoul Mosque. I speak with a man named Habibur. After asking where I am from and where in Bangladesh my parents come from, he asks me what migrant workers always ask, “Are you looking for a job here? I could get you in touch with someone.” After I explain that I am not, he switches track. “I have been here for eight years,” he says. “They won’t let me stay here anymore after this term ends. Can you get me a job in your company in Singapore?” His friend Arif asks, “Brother, are you a Muslim? Not a problem. We are all brothers sharing the same language.” His voice turns extremely civil. “Life is not too bad here. But sometimes other Korean workers shout at us. I think they say bad things.” I bid farewell to them and head for the Seoul neighborhood of Itaewon. Big blocks of restaurants greet me with tables covered in long white sheets. Shop names are all in English. Some storefronts imitate Victorian or Art Deco facades. Young Korean couples are posing every other minute for selfies. This is their local Western fix.
PREVIOUS PAGE, FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: 1. Itaewon chic 2. Itaewon Cool 3. Itaewon Style. THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: 1. Ansan Migrant Community Service Center 2. Ansan market fruit vendor 3. Bustling Ansan street market 4. Malay restaurant 5. Chinese money transfer business
On the main street, men in American army uniforms are looking for bargains. Korean men from the tailor shops, which form the backdrop, are asking all, “Do you want a shirt made for you?” A Chinese tour group, guided by a yellow flag, emerges from the subway station. The tourists dutifully go through the tiny cubicle shops along the pavement, all selling the same items that infect all touristy places: socks, caps, souvenirs and witty t-shirts. A whistle blows, the flag stops and turns around; the Chinese tourists go back to the underground world in unison. Roy, an English teacher from Sacramento who has been in Korea for over 10 years, explains, “Back home, you can’t get by teaching English after paying all the hundred taxes. And in California, they keep bringing in laws to turn teachers into paupers. No wonder English teachers are an abundant species in Korea.” He comes to Itaewon every weekend. “You should come here as a single. There are great clubs in this area, and Koreans are very friendly, if you know what I mean,” he winks. No problem of assimilation here then. “Not at all,” he laughs. “During the day, you join them for treks, and during nights they join you for a bumpy ride.”
But this enchanting world is lost as one walks up the hill from Itaewon. Distinctly Arab, South Asian and Malay faces are idling against shop walls. Hijabs on mannequins, a Pakistani travel agency, a Turkish kebab dig, a Malay restaurant; I can see the minaret of Seoul Mosque. The Bangladeshis I met in Ansan are distributing pamphlets about Islam from the mosque to any occasional Korean who drops by to take photographs. Outside, an elderly Korean woman is visiting every shop and asking the shop owner in English, “Where are you from?” One shop owner inevitably hesitates, “Korea.” “Don’t say that, you understand!” says the Korean woman. “Say what you are - a ‘Pakistani.’” Enraged, she walks away to the next store. I run for cover.
The steam clouds rising from stacks of Chinese dumplings set the mood. Ansan’s Wongok-Dong is not a global village but a Chinese village.
Originally from the north-eastern province of Assam in India, writer, traveller and photographer Shivaji Das now works as a management consultant in Singapore. He is the author of Journeys with the Caterpillar: Travelling through the Islands of Flores and Sumba, Indonesia. You can follow him on Twitter @ ShivajiAuthor, or visit his website at www.shivajidas.com
2014 summer _ busanhaps.com 21
HSocial
ISSUE
Operation Beautiful By James
Turnbull
Ewha Womans University student Min-ji Kim has taken up the cause of ‘body-image activist,’ going against the grain of unrealistic body ideals for women. Korea has a well-known reputation for perpetuating unrealistic body ideals for women - and deservedly so. It has the highest per capita cosmetic surgery rate in the world. It is the only country where young women are getting thinner rather than more obese, according to the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD). It is one of only two countries in the OECD where employers have the right to demand resume photographs, which are routinely photoshopped. Yet, this widespread body dysphoria is by no means uniquely Korean, and those headlines above could just as easily have been applied to the US. But instead of noting these similarities, overseas reporting tends to conform to Orientalist stereotypes of Korean women as victims, shrouding the complexity of their attitudes towards their bodies and the demands placed upon them. It also undervalues the work of Korean body-image activists and organizations. One such activist is Ewha Womans University student Min-ji Kim, who was inspired to start her (Korean) blog, Real Beauty Doesn’t Hurt, as a means of recovering from a distorted bodyimage-related eating disorder and to reach out to others. “I recognized that it wasn’t only me that was suffering,” Minji explains, “but when I was struggling with my disorder back in high school and college in the US, there just weren’t many resources out there, and I couldn’t get any support because awareness of it was very, very low. Even when I went to the hospital, the doctors didn’t really know about it, and I couldn’t even get any help from my family, who just thought I was being weird.” Unfortunately, awareness in Korea was even lower. This makes her blog play a crucial role for others seeking help. 22 HAPS_summer 2014
“As a body-image activist, I don’t have any tangible achievements [yet], but I can perhaps give myself some credit for giving support to people who didn’t have it before. For a lot of people, my blog provides a hopeful story. It shows them that they’re not alone, that they can overcome their eating disorders, and, crucially, that their disorders are not their fault. That’s my biggest accomplishment.” It also led her to Operation Beautiful, a US-based website campaign, at the heart of which is the placing of post-it notes with body positive, self-affirmation messages (and links) in such places as bathroom mirrors or on ads that promote a very narrow range of and/or unrealistic beauty standards. Participants then take photographs of them and upload them to the website. Min-ji places many of hers on Line 3 of the Seoul subway, which bombards commuters with promotions for cosmetic surgery clinics in Apgujeong. While simple-sounding, it’s a surprisingly effective method, now used by a number of organizations working on body-image issues. “These messages create solidarity among people whose issues may have seemed daunting, because they were struggling alone. But when people share their stories and start talking about them? Then immediately they feel less lonely and empowered by knowing that there are other people like them out there and that they do have a support system.” Another organization Min-ji collaborates with is Korea Womenlink, a women’s rights organization, which is currently driving a host of body-image campaigns involving university students. One example from last year is a Seoul subway ad campaign, which confronted the conformity of body-image demands on women by comparing them to a barcode. The text read:
LEFT: SUPPORTERS OF THE MOVEMENT WHO SENT IN THEIR PHOTOS; RIGHT: FOUNDER MIN-JI KIM WITH NOTE READING, “YOUR STAGE IS THE WORLD, NOT THE SCALES”
Also, once while she was recovering in the hospital from a car “Society tells me I must have the same body, the same face, as everyone, but I do not want to be like that. To do so, I conform to a accident, her doctors used the opportunity to offer her some standard made not by myself, but by others. The way I am now is additional cheap cosmetic surgery. the one and only true form for me. It is just fine for me, and fine for Ultimately, headlines in the foreign media do speak to some truth, Min-ji admits, and, identifying neither as Korean or Ameriyou, to just be the way we are.” Min-ji sees these campaigns as a definite spark, and welcomes can, is well placed to lament the big gap in mindset between Koreans and the expat communithe recent news that the Seoul ty as well as the lack of dialogue. Metropolitan Government is to FOR A LOT OF PEOPLE MY BLOG PROVIDES Likely, talking about rather than to limit the number of cosmetic surgery advertisements to no more A HOPEFUL STORY. IT SHOWS THEM THAT Koreans is why all too many expats tend to stereotype Korean women than 20 percent of subway station THEY’RE NOT ALONE, THAT THEY CAN as victims. Against that, Min-ji has ads and to ban them completely OVERCOME THEIR EATING DISORDERS, a powerful, final take-away mesfrom areas around schools. (It is common to receive cosmetic surAND, CRUCIALLY, THAT THEIR DISORDERS sage to readers: “A US-based feminist I was having gery as a graduation gift; some ARE NOT THEIR FAULT. a dialogue with, who had never clinics also target middle schoolbeen to Korea, basically assumed ers.) However, she believes restrictions on online advertisements would be much more effective that women in Korea were just oppressed, and that is just not and that such measures do little to challenge the dynamic that the case. You know I live in Korea, I’m a woman, and I feel very empowered to be a woman. Korean women are very passiondrives women to make such huge sacrifices in the first place. “People’s freedom to choose cosmetic surgery should be re- ate, and I know so many women who are doing their best to despected,” says Min-ji. “Some people effectively have to do velop their careers, to be good mothers, and women here thrive it for the sake of their jobs, their careers, or their families and and flourish at both. I know that many people are still subject to discrimination and live in poverty, but there’s a great deal of acshouldn’t be blamed for it.” As described by interviewees in Korean Womenlink’s recent tivism, and a lot of policies are being implemented to improve book, Are You Sorry You’re Fat?, these pressures include doctors that situation.” “Things are not stagnant!” expecting nurses to be pretty and mothers viewing cosmetic surgery as beneficial for their daughters’ careers. “I myself am quite skinny,” Min-ji adds, “but I too am regularly told to diet by You can check out Operation Beautiful by visiting the website classmates and friends, of both sexes.” at www.operationbeautiful.com 2014 summer _ busanhaps.com 23
HCover STORY
24 HAPS_summer 2014
Places to See in Korea, Before You’re Allowed to Leave Photography by
Chris Cusick, Scott Rotzoll & Vincent Carvalho
While many of us may never leave the peninsula, most of us will, and even more of us will never visit all there is on offer. Haps has put together some must-see spots for any Korean travel itinerary. By no means a definitive list, it’s enough to keep you busy for a while.
THIS PAGE: Seoraksan National Park, Photography by Chris Cusick 2014 summer _ busanhaps.com 25
The DMZ,
The War Stops Here A day trip to the DMZ is like nothing you’ve experienced elsewhere. Staring out across the most heavily armed border in the world, the psychological impact alone is impressive. But hey, they have a Viking ride, too! Tours start off in Seoul and include visits to a border military base, long-abandoned infiltration tunnels built by the North and the UN negotiation complex that directly straddles the border. An interesting and sometimes ignored aspect of the DMZ is that the two-kilometer-wide stretch of land is one of the most pristine nature spots on the planet. If you step up to the border at the right time, you might catch sight of giant flocks of waterfowl flying in large circles into and out of South Korean territory as if there was no line there at all. And there’s a Viking! Photography by Scott Rotzoll
26 HAPS_summer 2014
Jeju Island, The Jeju of Korea
While calling it the ‘Hawaii of Korea’ leans a bit to the side of exaggeration, if you hit Jeju during the warm months, it makes for a fine East Asian substitute - and the food is actually better than Hawaii. Famed historically for its ‘wind, women and rocks,’ the island features other major attractions to travelers, too: white sandy beaches and scenic natural wonders, including waterfalls and a dormant volcano carved atop Korea’s highest mountain, Halla-san. There’s an abundance of restaurants with barbequed seafood or meat, which is best cooked on a slab of Jeju’s endless supply of lava rock. The heaviest rain falls in June, so keep that in mind. Photography by Chris Cusick 2014 summer _ busanhaps.com 27
Seoraksan Nat. Park, The Path Well-Traveled
Named as Korea’s first national park under the National Park Law in 1970, Seoraksan National Park is one of the country’s most well-preserved natural wonders. On the mountainous grounds of the 164-square-kilometer plot, you might get lucky to catch sight of a black bear or a flying squirrel—just two of the 1,562 animal species classified in the park so far. To get there, you can take one of many buses departing from nearly any city or hop on a plane to Yangyang in Gangwon Province at the far northern corner of the ROK. english.knps.or.kr Photography by Chris Cusick 28 HAPS_summer 2014
Gyeongju, Oh, Silla!
An hour away from Busan by express bus or by train, Gyeongju is the historical crown jewel in the Korean tourist crown. Popularly known as ‘The Museum without Walls,’ the former seat of power for the Silla Dynasty (57 bce - 935 ce) is surrounded by a double range of hills and mountains, which form the perfect natural fortress for the city. Spend a day or two roaming hundreds of ancient historical remains, including grassy burial mounds, centuries-old temples, stone pagodas, imperial mausoleums and museums. Gyeongju’s close proximity to the sea also makes it a haven for great seafood restaurants. Photography by Vincent Carvalho
Tongyeong,
of Oysters and Admirals The artist enclave of Tongyeong is most well-known for being the oyster capital of Korea as well as the home base for supreme naval strategist Admiral Yi Sun Shin during the 16th century Imjin War. Just an hour bus ride away from Busan, this almost quaint port town is great for a day of walking around or hiking on one of the many islands just off the coast. There’s a maze of wall-painted alleys near downtown as well as the historic Haejeong Tunnel, which was built by the Japanese in 1932 and holds the distinction of being the first underwater tunnel in all of Asia. Its one-lane road is now a walk-through exhibition of historical photographs and area history. eng. tongyeong.go.kr Photography by Chris Cusick
HTravel INTERNATIONAL
My, My, My Barcelona Story By Stella
Wilshire
How about mixing it up a bit this summer by flying over your favorite Asian destinations and continuing on to Barcelona? Spain’s second largest city and historic spread by the sea, Barcelona offers an abundant mix of architectural styles and vivid colors. From the centuries-old markets to the masterful creations of Gaudí to the storied old structures dating back to the Romans, Barcelona’s fun is on her streets. Considering that Hercules is tied through legend to the founding, Barcelona is a city rich in history. Wander in and out of expansive markets, through gothic neighborhoods or along the beautiful beaches, though it’s just as easy to step into one of the many bars, restaurants or cafes and not come out for days. On my first morning, I wandered through La Boqueria (also
known as Mercat de Sant Josep), which is one of Barcelona’s most popular food markets. An array of color greets you as you make your way down the aisles, where thousands pass daily, sorting through the endless stalls of produce, seafood and all else. I could have stayed there my entire trip. Barcelona is not a small town. Comprised of six districts that house 1.6 million people, there’s a lot of ground to cover. I’ve picked three cool neighborhoods, near the beach of course, that are assured to keep you busy for a while.
1. LA BARCELONETA In addition to enjoying a fictional visit from Don Quixote, La Barceloneta is most well-known for its sandy beach. The street off the beach is always a blast. Lined with restaurants and nightclubs, it remains a lively area regardless of the season. Whether I went topless on the beach shall remain in the vault. Personal pick: Be sure to check out the Casa de la Barceloneta, a museum housed in a wonderfully preserved building dating back to 1761.
2. THE GOTHIC QUARTER One of the oldest and most well-preserved neighborhoods, the Gothic Quarter offers narrow streets and small squares for 30 HAPS_summer 2014
PREVIOUS PAGE, FROM TOP: 1. Barcelona Park Guell of Gaudi Modernism. 2. Fruit stand in la Boqueria Market THIS PAGE, FROM TOP: 1. Barcelona Port Vell and la Barceloneta district. 2. Barcelona Cathedral.
witnessing all sorts of sights. It’s home to an abundance of medieval architecture, some dating as far back as the Roman settlement of the city. A must-see is the Barcelona Cathedral (Catedral de la Santa Cruz y Santa Eulalia), which saw its cornerstone first laid in the 13th century. Interesting fact: The cathedral was built to honor Eulalia of Barcelona, a Barcelona patron saint who, according to Catholic lore, was a young virgin delegated to martyrdom at the hands of the Romans. One legend recounts that she was exposed naked in the public square when a sudden, miraculous mid-spring snowfall covered her nude body to ease her shame.
3. EL BORN Similar to the Gothic Quarter, and only one street over, El Born was given a popular boost by the Ildefonso Falcones book Cathedral of the Sea, a historical novel about medieval Barcelona that spent a year atop Spain’s best seller list in 2008. Formerly the hip spot to take in jousting matches, it is now graced with a ton of cafes, brimming in the evenings. There is also a festive night scene, where you can spend an evening jousting with the mojitos. The nearby Barcelona Zoo makes for a perfect spot to walk off that hangover the next morning. Personal pick: Keep your eyes peeled for the many shops inhabited by violin makers, glassmakers and other craftspeople. Incredible sights abound. Barcelona is served by several airlines. Haps recommends KLM at www.klm.com.
Michael Fraiman is a freelance writer and former Haps editor. Read more of his travel stories at www.alongwayback.com, and check for his upcoming book, A Long Way Back: Stories of Travelling Home. 2014 summer _ busanhaps.com 31
H Travel DOMESTIC
Busan’s Beaches
Beach season, that season that exceeds all other seasons in Busan, is back. HAEUNDAE BEACH
Over the past several months, ships have been busy just offshore dredging sand and pumping it up onto the beach to double the width of Korea’s famed strip of coastline. While the summer bookend months of June and September are the best times to enjoy the beach with moderate crowds, July and August is when Haeundae explodes with upwards of 700,000 people swimming, lounging or shuffling along the boardwalk in the summer heat. Nearby there are plenty of great restaurants and good backstreets leading off in all sorts of interesting directions. To get there, take subway line 2 to Haeundae Station. It’s about a five-minute walk.
SONG-DO BEACH Officially Korea’s first beach (as of 1913), Song-do has re-emerged as a must-stop on local tours. Song-do, which translates into Pine Island, was given its name due to the lush pine trees adorning the outskirts of the beach. Located just three kilometers from Nampo-dong, Song-do offers a romantic backdrop for couples looking for some peace and quiet, away from the hustle and bustle of the city. To get there, take bus 34 or 134 from Busan Station southward.
ILGWANG BEACH Located in Gijang County, Ilgwang Beach is a little out of the way, but is better for a guaranteed quiet day at the beach than any others. As the water levels are not too deep, novice swimmers and children are more prone to enjoy swimming here as opposed to other beaches in the city. There are also plenty of accommodations, restaurants and camping facilities available nearby, should you choose to spend the night. To get there, take subway line 2 to Jangsan Station. At exit 9, take bus 180, and get off at Ilgwang Beach.
IMRANG BEACH The 1.5km-long Imrang Beach is also located in Gijang County, and is famous for its fresh water and fishing. With the water level only four feet deep, many families with young children find the beach ideal for swimming, while the neighborhood has a distinct character of its own. Tongdosa Temple and Jangansa Temple are located nearby for those looking to get out of the beach scene for the afternoon. Though relatively quiet, more tourists have been frequenting the area lately due to its golden sand. To get there, take bus 37, 180 or 188 from Jangsan Station. 32 HAPS_summer 2014
SONGJEONG BEACH It may be just on the other side of Dalmaji Hill, but Songjeong feels much further away. The skyscrapers of Busan proper are blocked from view, and the crowds are much smaller. It also has the only reliable breaks, attracting surfers who chase waves and girls who chase surfers. At the end of the day, Songjeong is one of the only nearby beaches that allows camping, but with no restrictions on fireworks or soju, don’t expect a quiet night’s rest. To get there, take subway line 2 and get off at Haeundae Station (exit 7), and take bus 100, 100-1, 139 or 142. Get off at Songjeong Station and walk 600 meters.
GWANGALLI BEACH If Haeundae feels a bit like South Beach, Miami, then Gwangalli is Coney Island: laid back, more room to stretch out and a semi-abandoned, rusting amusement park. At the end of the Suyeong River trail, the beach makes a great destination for a morning bike ride or jog. The absence of towering hotels means there are more dining and drinking options with ocean views. If you’re feeling brave, you can grab a kayak at the southwest end of the beach and dodge the wind surfers and jet skis on the open water. After sunset, the Diamond Bridge, an iconic suspension bridge that spans the horizon, comes to life with an elaborate LED light show. To get there, take subway line 2 to Gwangan or Geumnyeonsan Station. It’s about a five-minute walk.
DADAEPO BEACH Located at the estuary of the Nakdonggang River and just eight kilometers from downtown, Dadaepo Beach is a great place to chill out and have a picnic, collect a few seashells and go for a swim in the shallow surf. Just up the river is one of the best places in Korea to check out migratory birds chilling in the marshes. At just under a kilometer long, it is beautiful but little-known to foreigners because of how far away it is from the city center. To get there, take bus number 2 or 98 from Busan Station or get off the subway at Sinpyeong Station and take bus 2, 11, 96 or 98. 2014 summer _ busanhaps.com 33
HSports
TALK
The Master By Marius
Stankiewicz
Former World International Taekwondo Federation Champion Rafal Olenski is one badass dude. The three-time Polish taekwondo champ opens up about living his martial arts dream in Busan. Though his good looks and stylish dress may fool you, 28-year-old Rafal Olenski, three-time Polish and one-time world taekwondo champion, is a force to be reckoned with. He’s got determination, a fierce fighting stance and if you ask him nicely, he’ll even do some acrobatic spin kicks off a building’s wall reminiscent of old Kung Fu movies. Over a beer - which he occasionally endorses when not dominating his opponents in the ring as much as the dojang - we had the chance to sit down with him to discuss his competitive career, his humble beginnings and, of course, his love for Busan. HOW DID YOU START IN TAEKWONDO? I’ve always dreamt of wanting to be a martial artist, to train with great fighters in Asia under well-known masters. Watching Bruce Lee in Enter the Dragon and Van Damme in Bloodsport inspired me, and so after complaining to my dad that I wanted to train martial arts, he took me down the street from our house and signed me up for taekwondo. It was a random decision, actually, but I immediately took to the sport and started training intensively. Little by little, I began reaching the goals I set for myself. First, it was me becoming the youngest ITF black belt in Poland and then it was winning the Polish championships three times. 34 HAPS_summer 2014
WHAT WERE YOUR FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF KOREA? To be honest, Korea reminded me a bit of the US. Before coming here, I spent some time in Chicago, so when I arrived in Busan and saw the concrete sidewalks, the flashing neon lights and all the familiar company logos and American brands, I thought I was back in the US. Now, after all these years in Busan, what I see being connected to the US is only the American brands and nothing more. WHAT ARE YOUR FEELINGS ABOUT BUSAN? In the beginning, I thought that I would not find myself in this city. I was even contemplating returning to Poland. But after settling down, meeting great people, and gaining more career opportunities, I realized that it would be quite a nice place to live in. I love the nature here, the mountains and beaches. I often go jogging in Haeundae and Gwangalli Beach, my favorite places. The transportation here is efficient, and the service in shops is always exceptional. I love Korean food, especially Korean restaurants. Above all, I’ve always dreamt of seeing Asia, and from Korea it is quite easy to fly to other countries, especially from Busan.
WHAT ARE YOUR FUTURE PLANS? At the moment I’m recovering from an injury. In a spar a few months back I tore my meniscus, so I’m just taking it slow after my knee surgery; it was my third knee surgery of the same injury, so I really need to take it easy. I’m jogging a bit now but no hardcore training or fighting. When I get back into it, I hope to achieve the same success in kickboxing as I did in taekwondo. I’ve always said to myself that I want to fight until the age of 35, but who knows if I’ll be able to hold up. Right now, I’m also studying in Busan, so I’m hoping my studies could open a few doors in terms of career options. I’m also trying to look at a few business opportunities involving export/import between Poland and Korea. ANY ADVICE FOR ALL THE YOUTH OUT THERE TRAINING IN SPORTS OR MARTIAL ARTS? The more sweat during training means less blood during bouts. Also, taekwondo, Muay Thai and kickboxing are all about mind, body and soul - not just ‘fighting’ and ‘combat.’ Be ambitious, stay disciplined and don’t make excuses for yourself to miss training. Try to follow your dreams despite the many difficulties you’re bound to encounter while reaching them. Also, don’t be a fanatic about your sport or martial art. Don’t be obsessed with ‘chasing’ your belt color or trophies, and keep your head cool at all times. What you do in the dojang stays in the dojang, meaning don’t mix ‘work’ with your ‘private’ life. I’d like to thank all my friends here in Busan for all their warm hospitality over the years and my lovely girlfriend, Nam-kyung. Marius Stankiewicz is a freelance journalist and an instructor at Busan University of Foreign Studies. You can find his photography and publications at www.mariuszstankiewicz.com
LOTTE GIANTS SCHEDULE JUNE 10, 11, 12 - LG JUNE 13, 14, 15 - KIA JUNE 27, 28, 29 - NC JULY 4, 5, 6 - SK JULY 15, 16 - NEXEN JULY 22, 23, 24 - SAMSUNG JULY 29, 30, 31 - DOOSAN
BUSAN IPARK SCHEDULE JULY 5 - JEONBUK 7:30 P.M. JULY 13 - INCHEON 7:30 P.M. JULY 23 - SUWON 7:30 P.M. JULY 26 - JEJU 7:30 P.M.
2014 summer _ busanhaps.com 35
Community Corner
Medical Tourism Centers Spring Up Around Korea If you’re looking for some advice on how to make the most of Korea’s extensive medical tourism offerings, here is a list of Korea’s four information centers located in Seoul, Busan, Daegu and Incheon.
SEOUL MEDICAL TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER Location: 10, Da-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul Languages: English, Japanese, Chinese and Russian Telephone: +82-2-752-2102~3, 1330 E-mail: medicaltourism@knto.or.kr Services: Trial use/introduction of simple medical instruments, visitor assistance, guidebooks, information. Korean Traditional Medicine: Acupuncture, moxibustion, cupping treatment (from Wednesday through Friday, 10:00~17:00) Operation Hours: 09:00~18:00 (Hotline 1330 is 24/7)
INCHEON MEDICAL TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER Location: 1F Arrivals Gate 5 at Incheon International Airport Languages: English, Japanese, Chinese and Russian at the concierge. Telephone: +82-32-743-2172, 1330 E-mail: medicaltourism@knto.or.kr Services: Visitor assistance, information, guide brochures, healthcare network support Operation Hours: 09:00~18:00 (Hotline 1330 is 24/7)
BUSAN MEDICAL TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER Location: Bujeon 1 Dong 486-27, Jin-gu, Busan Languages: English, Japanese, Chinese Telephone: +82-51-818-1320, 1330 E-mail: medicaltourism@knto.or.kr Services: Visitor assistance, information, guide brochures, healthcare network support Operation Hours: 10:00~19:00 (Hotline 1330 is 24/7)
DAEGU MEDICAL TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER Location: 6F Daegu City Center, 11-1 Munhwa-dong, Jung-gu Languages: English, Japanese, Chinese Telephone: +82-70-7006-1161~4, 1330 E-mail: meditour545@gmail.com Services: Visitor assistance, information, guide brochures, healthcare network support Operation Hours: 09:00~18:00 (Hotline 1330 is 24/7)
36 HAPS_summer 2014
Spreading the Word
Spin, DJ, Spin Busan eFM is accepting entrants for the 2nd annual BeFM Expat DJ Contest. The contest, which is co-sponsored by Etihad Airways and Haps, will end with a final battle on the beach during the Busan Sea Festival in early August. After the winner is decided, several of Korea’s top DJ’s (also acting as judges) will continue spinning on the sand into the evening. Upload your audition video from June 23 until July 7. The contest king wins a million won and a roundtrip ticket to Abu Dhabi. For more info, visit www.befm.or.kr or give them a call at 051-663-0034.
Haeundae’s New Seaside Attraction The Bay 101, an architecturally hip new spot on Dongbaek Island just across from the Westin Chosun Hotel, opened its doors in May. The spacious two-story building has an LED illuminated wall in front while the back opens up to a sizable patio seating area with great views of the Marine City skyline. The 3,567-square-meter, 35-billion-won complex houses a cafe and several food offerings,
including outstanding fish n’ chips on the first floor. Up on the second floor is Daedo, Seoul’s famed barbeque restaurant with enough room to seat up to 500 diners. A very cool feature of the new facility is that you can book watercraft. The selection ranges from three 128-passenger yachts to three jet boats, with a planned 30 jet skis by July.
2014 summer_ busanhaps.com 37
Business Spotlight
CALIFORNIA REPUBLIC By Anthony Velasquez
What started out as one location just off the beach in Haeundae has grown into three of the most popular spots for food and drink in Busan.
Whether at the original Sharky’s at Haeundae Beach, the Gwangalli Beach location or the most recent addition of Sharky’s III on the Haeundae Strip, Sharky’s is the only place in Busan that is quintessentially Californian. Its friendly vibe is reminiscent of laid-back SoCal beach bars where you find a strange brew of patrons, some spiritedly blowing off steam, some relaxing with a kind ale or cocktail over board games by the beach. While the assorted assembly there may change (which keeps the craic interesting), what is consistent for sure about Sharky’s is it serves the best pub grub in Busan. Sharky’s distinction is the way it epitomizes California cuisine by using as much local produce as possible and procuring only the best ingredients, such as Australian beef and lamb, American bacon and all imported cheese. Also, by putting that little extra time and care into not only its taste but also its presentation, they consistently deliver the finest culinary creations. For example, all the sauces and dressings are housemade, chicken breasts are marinated for at least 24 hours for a great caesar salad, hoagie rolls are baked to order, hand-rolled taquitos use only chicken leg and thigh meat for a more flavorful filling, and their original, freshly made meatballs of ground pork and beef, original herb mix and touch of cream cheese make them expertly seasoned and textured. Regarding that latter point, the meatball hoagie is the best sandwich I’ve had in Busan. Furthermore, Sharky’s menu is replete with plenty of classics that authentically represent their provenance yet are never staid. The border specialties offer some serious Mexican food
38 HAPS_summer 2014
like the San Diego taquito plate, the wet burrito and the California burrito. In addition, for a more inventive, modern twist, there’s the tuna avocado burger, the Cajun salmon filet and the cilantro lamb chops and sausage entree. And this spring, they’re rolling out a classic Western brunch, done, of course, with smartly chosen ingredients, housemade and cooked to order. Even as Sharky’s brand and reputation has grown, it still adheres to its core principles of providing a chill ambience and amicable and competent service in great locations, all serving top-shelf food and drink. Salud! Sharky’s is an advertiser with Haps Magazine.
Sponsored Stories
CJ HELLOVISION TEAMS UP WITH GOOGLE FOR CHROMECAST IN KOREA Thanks to a partnership between Google and CJ Hellovision streaming media service TVing, you can now stream tens of thousands of videos, movies and TV shows through Chromecast.
This past May, CJ Hellovision, Korea’s largest cable compa- users to open a Chrome browser tab remotely and view it on ny, along with their streaming service TVing, launched a part- the big screen. Chromecast is a streaming device that plugs into your televinership with Google to make Korea the first country in Asia to sion via an HDMI port. There is no need to have a smart TV, just offer Chromecast and its multi-device streaming technology. The 49,900-won device, which is available from places such as an HDMI port and you’re good to go. Once inserted, ChromeHi-Mart and GMarket, makes good use of Korea’s high-speed In- cast offers a wireless gateway to video, music, photos and apps that turn your television into ternet connection, allowing an Internet hub for popular TVing users, which already KOREANS ARE SOME OF THE MOST SAVVY apps like TVing. count over 6.5 million in KoSimply browse the content rea, to now enjoy a wider se- CONSUMERS OF CONTENT OVER THE INTERNET IN lection of offerings. THE WORLD AND THE SMARTPHONE IS ALREADY you’re interested in on your mobile device—such as a “This is a great chance for A MUCH LARGER PART OF THEIR MEDIA smartphone or a tablet—then TVing to be on more screens, tell it to play on your TV. Chroallowing for the company to CONSUMPTION THAN ELSEWHERE. mecast automatically switchexpand,” according to senior project manager Kim Jong-won. “As TVing is the best OTT ser- es your TV to the correct input while allowing you to adjust vice company in Korea, we will lead this industry by developing the volume by simply using your mobile device’s built-in volume controls. Once playing on your TV, you can multi-task with the latest technology.” Compatible with all major operating systems and mobile de- your phone as you normally would. Since it works as a mirroring vices, the 2.83-inch Chromecast dongle that plugs into your device, Chromecast streaming from your mobile device to the TV is already highly popular in the American market where the TV has almost no effect on battery usage. simple configuration allows apps like Netflix, YouTube and Plex Once installed, the service allows viewers to enjoy HD-qualito stream video from any mobile device to the TV. It also allows ty streaming at 1280x720, and new technology developed by CJ Hellovision makes flipping through the wide range of channels much faster. Mickey Kim, Head of Chromecast & TV Partnerships, Google Asia Pacific, sees this partnership as a perfect fit for Korea and its ‘cord-cutting’ trend. “Koreans are some of the most savvy consumers of content over the Internet in the world and the smartphone is already a much larger part of their media consumption than elsewhere,” said Kim. “Over 60% of YouTube views in Korea come from mobile devices, compared to the 40% average for the world. All these mobile content lovers will now be able to bridge the gap between their smartphone and the biggest screen in the house.” You can visit CJ Hellovision on the web at www.cjhello.com CJ Hellovision is an advertising partner with Haps Magazine. 2014 summer_ busanhaps.com 39
Dining & Food
SHINAE:
AN INTERNATIONAL FOOD CROSSROADS IN KOREA By
John Dunphy Photos by Jamie Alexander
Those looking for a more international dining atmosphere during their time in Korea need look no further than Shinae in nearby Gimhae. There you’ll find a great mix of cultures and food served up from people from around the world living and working there. Stepping inside the timeworn, sparsely furnished Burmese restaurant down a small, nondescript alley, worry could very easily creep in. Will I like what I order? Will I be able to order anything? Thankfully, the kind woman, following her initial surprise of seeing a couple of Americans enter the restaurant, knows enough English to help out. “What would you like? Prawn, pork or beef?” Soon, she lays out two plates of simple fare, bowls of comforting, fishy broth and a bottle of Hite. Hite? As it turns out, we are not in Myanmar, we are in an area called ‘Shinae,’ an international crossroads of food and culture just outside of Busan, in Gimhae. Located in Seosang-dong - about a 35-minute light rail trip from Sasang the restaurants in Shinae (which means ‘downtown’ in Korean) serve up an almost overwhelming variety of ethnic dining options from over a dozen different countries. Walking the streets there, you will come across cuisine from Cambodia, Morocco, India and Indonesia, to name a few. In wide-open avenues, down narrow alleys, Korea and other Asian nations mingle cheek by jowl in this vibrant area of open-air markets, phone shops, clothing stores, karaoke rooms, and a ton of restaurants. Experiences can vary as widely as there are represented nations. One moment, you might pass a pair of men speaking Russian. The next, Thai. Walking up the narrow stairs to Saigon Binh Dan, a speaker pipes sound from the restaurant. This could be the music of Vietnam or a YouTube video of a poorly dubbed 40 HAPS_summer 2014
western action film. Flip through the menu, and, if you have learned enough Korean, order a 7,000-won bowl of spicy bun riev hai san (Vietnam’s version of Korea’s seafood noodle soup). Other restaurants are considerably less threatening to the considerably less adventurous. At the recently opened Durga, co-owner Madhu Mahal noted in perfect English (menus also are in English) how not only is there a demand for Indian and Nepalese foods and goods (which can be purchased adjacent to the dining area) from natives of that region now living in Korea, but also Koreans are finally discovering these delights. Mahal said his business is happy to help, and Shinae was the obvious choice for its expansion. After dinner you can explore the Asian
marts or the outdoor markets, where one can purchase anything from blankets and bags of kimchi to fresh fish and bushels of cilantro. Most communication can be conducted in Korean, even if the seller isn’t Korean themselves. Getting there: By bus: several Busan buses go to Gimhae, including the 1004 and 123, which run from Busan Station and Nampo-dong to Shinae. By subway: Green line to Sasang (227), to BusanGimhae Light Rail, to stop #17 (Royal Tomb of King Suro). Brown line to Daejeo (317), transfer to light rail, to stop #17. Exit the station on the left. Continue straight for half a mile.
For more from John Dunphy, visit jpdunphy.blogspot.com.
Home Cooking
THREE OF THE BEST:
BINGSU
By Christy Swain
Are you a big fan of icy desserts in summer but maybe not too keen on the red bean paste? Never fear - this summer there are plenty of refreshing alternatives to satisfy your sweet tooth!
Cafe Bing Bing Bing
Using organic and simple, fresh ingredients, these bingsus are lower in sugar and calories. They have seasonal bingsu (differing between stores), depending on what’s fresh and healthy: “well-being bingsu.” Order your red bean on the side if you’re missing it. THE BEST: Lemon bingsu (June - July) - lemonade meets bingsu! 7,700 won RUNNERS UP: Milk bingsu - available all year. Tangerine bingsu - available only in the fall. All 7,700 won Three locations: Nampo dong, Haeundae Marine City and Jeonpo Café Street in Seomyeon. Look for the cute penguin logo.
설빙 - SOL BING DESSERT CAFES
Popping up all over Busan, this franchise uses traditional and seasonal ingredients, and their ice is made with milk and finely shaved to resemble snowflakes. All bingsu comes with extra condensed milk on the side. Red bean is available on the side, too. THE BEST: Strawberry (딸기 = ddalgi) bingsu, with sliced strawberries and strawberry sauce, 9,500 won RUNNERS UP: Cheese bingsu, with chunks of New York cheesecake and cheesecake ice cream, 8,000 won. Mango cheese bingsu, with chunks of mango and cheesecake and mango syrup (coming soon for summer) Multiple locations around Busan (Seomyeon, Nampo, PNU, Hwamyeong, Millak and more). Look for the distinctive hanja emblazoned pottery bowl logo.
A Twosome Place
As far as the big franchise coffee shops go, A Twosome Place has the best range and combinations, and their sandwiches and cakes are some of the best in town, too. THE BEST: Tiramisu bingsu, with coffee and slices of tiramisu cake, 10,500 won. RUNNERS UP: Yogurt berry bingsu, with frozen yogurt and mixed berries, 9,800 won. Green grape mojito, with green grapes, lime and mint (non-alcoholic – boo!), 9,800 won Multiple locations around Busan 2014 summer_ busanhaps.com 41
People
AN INTERVIEW WITH
DAVID A. MASON
By Hal Swindall
As co-author of An Encyclopedia of Korean Buddhism, Professor David Mason knows just about all there is to know about Buddhism here on the peninsula. Hal Swindall recently sat down for a talk with the Michigan native about his master work and the world of Korean Buddhism. American David A. Mason has lived in Korea for over 30 years. Much of that time has been dedicated to the study of Korean Buddhism and the exploration of the country’s sacred sites. Mason first became interested in Buddhism while in high school as both an alternative and a supplement to the Protestant worldview of his upbringing. He had always liked hiking amid the mountain scenery and found it to be the perfect combination of spiritual and physical exertion when he came to Korea as an English teacher. Over the decades, Mason has watched Korean Buddhism globalize, a development he intends to aid with his encyclopedia, An Encyclopedia of Korean Buddhism, which was published last year by Seoul publisher Unjusa. Mason now works as a professor of Korean Cultural Tourism at Namseoul University in Cheonan. Your encyclopedia is over 600 pages long and contains thousands of definitions of Buddhist concepts, as well as biographies of major monks and histories of major temples. What were your sources for all this information? A lot of the information came from previous compilations of such material in Korean by the scholars of Dongguk University and the Jogye Order, which some had been translated into rough English. There was also a collection of academic essays on specific topics in English by scholars previously working for Dongguk on other projects. I had already written and edited a collection of 30 essays on Korea’s top Buddhist treasures that was published in the Korea Times and published as a book distributed at the 2010 G20 summit in Seoul. All this material that I had to start with, perhaps 1,000 pages in crude form, had to be completely rewritten and heavily edited to make it consistent in style and sufficiently brief for the encyclopedia format. 42 HAPS_summer 2014
What was the most difficult part about compiling the encyclopedia? What part did you enjoy the most? Just the very long hours of going over minute details of so many entries, struggling to present the best quality and most extensive knowledge in a very concise manner - sometimes that got really tedious and seemed a lonely effort. Maybe the best aspects were that I learned so much more than I already knew by doing this, and I got to refresh all my great experiences of visiting all the major temples over the past three decades, going over the photos and reliving the memories. Experiencing the grand monasteries and finding the remote hermitages up on the slopes of Korea’s most beautiful and sacred mountains has always been my favorite activity while living here, and so going over the extensive related materials again and considering what perspectives to use in presenting them to the world was very fulfilling. What do you think is the most important Buddhist concept for foreigners to understand? Perhaps ‘enlightenment’ itself - how it is not mystical or otherworldly, as some people might think, but a very real-world perspective of insight and wisdom, quite pragmatic and accurate. Also that in general, Buddhism is less of a superstitious religion than people think and doesn’t really take the worship of deities and the notions of heavens, hells, reincarnations and transcendent gods or spirits very seriously. Foreigners often don’t understand that the very serious focus on concentrated meditation practice and attainment of wisdom by philosophical study is the main focus of the serious Buddhist practitioners, especially in this nation where meditative Buddhism (Chan or Zen, which we call ‘Seon’) has been the predominant stream for 1,000 years, and that the more ‘religious’ aspects are only subsidiary. For more, visit Professor Mason’s website: www.san-shin.org. Photo by Kim Myung-sub, courtesy of David Mason.
Art & Culture
2014 summer_ busanhaps.com 43
Hotel Directory & News
HOTEL EVENTS AND NEWS Whether you are looking for a comfortable place to lay your head, somewhere to enjoy a good meal or throw back a few cocktails, here’s what’s happening at some of our favorite local hotels.
Paradise Hotel
1408-5 Jung-dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan ph. 051-742-2121 web. www.paradisehotel.co.kr
Try a delectable grilled steak and other scrumptious creations at the newly opened premium restaurant Nyx while dining with stunning views of the beach.
Novotel Hotel
1405-16 Jung-dong, Haeundaegu, Busan ph. 051-746-8481 web. www.novotel.ambatel.com
Indulge yourself with a taste of Italy at the lobby-level Terrace Cafe restaurant, which serves up mouthwatering pasta dishes from various regions around the peninsula.
Kunoh Seacloud Hotel
287 Haeundaehaebyun-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan ph. 051-933-4300 web. www.seacloudhotel.kr
Enjoy your complimentary breakfast buffet at VIPS restaurant while staying in one of the 177 luxuriously furnished guest rooms on Haeundae Beach.
Park Hyatt Busan
51, Marine City 1-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan ph. 051-990-1234 web. busan.park.hyatt.com
Carefully catered for afternoon tea enthusiasts, enjoy the ‘Afternoon Tea Set’ daily from 2 p.m. to 6 p.m. with homemade scones or pastries made by veteran chefs at the 30th-floor Lounge restaurant. 44 HAPS_summer 2014
Hotel Nongshim
23, Geumganggongwon-ro 20beon-gil, Dongnae-gu, Busan ph. 051-550-2100 web. www.hotelnongshim.com
Four amazing premium barbecue dishes, including ribs and roast chicken, are on offer at the hotel’s first-floor German traditional brewery, Hurshimchung Brau, through the end of June.
Accomodation Guide
HOTEL DIRECTORY Looking for a place to stay when visiting Busan? Find it with the Haps hotel directory, your local English guide to accomodation in the city. HAEUNDAE THE WESTIN CHOSUN tel: 82-51-749-7000 web: www.echosunhotel.com Do it right and crash in the same room George W. Bush did. PARADISE HOTEL tel: 82-51-742 2121 web: www.paradisehotel.co.kr On the water, with a casino, excellent spa and a pool. SEACLOUD HOTEL tel: 82-51-933-1000 web: www.seacloudhotel.com Luxury stay with great restaurants. Short walk to the beach. CENTUM HOTEL tel: 82-51-720-9000 web: www.centumhotel.co.kr Near Shinsegae and BEXCO. Good subway access. SUNSET HOTEL tel: 82-51-730-9900 web: www.sunsethotel.co.kr Seventy-two rooms with, according to the site, “individual design concepts”. NOVOTEL AMBASSADOR tel: 82-51-743-1234 web: novotel.ambatel.com On the beach. Great ocean view, Murpii Nightclub. GRAND HOTEL tel: 82-51-740-0610 web: www.grandhotel.co.kr One of the cheaper spots on the strip, but still at the beach. KUNOH SEACLOUD HOTEL tel: 82-51-933-4300 web: www.seacloudhotel.kr Luxury stay with great restaurants. Short walk to the beach. HANWHA RESORT tel: 82-1588-2299 web: www.hanwharesort.co.kr Beautiful views of Oryukdo, the bridge and close to the beach. PARK HYATT BUSAN tel: 82-51-990-1234 web: busan.park.hyatt.com Five star quality hotel with stunning views and service.
SEOMYEON LOTTE HOTEL tel: 82-51-810-1000 web: www.lottehotelbusan.com Lotte runs a tight ship and it shows in the generous customer service here.
TOYOKO INN tel: 82-51-442-1045 web: www.toyoko-inn.com Across from D City, comfortable, clean and affordable. CROWN HOTEL tel: 82-51-635-1241 web: www.fnetravel.com/english/pusanhotels/crown.html Mid-range hotel decorated in Korean style, good for travellers.
GWANGALLI HOMERS HOTEL tel: 82-51-750-8000 web: www.homershotel.com Right on Gwangalli Beach amidst the myriad of cafes, bars and restaurants. AQUA PALACE tel: 82-51-756-0202 web: www.aquapalace.co.kr Beautiful view of the Diamond Bridge, right in the middle of the beach.
JUNG-GU COMMODORE HOTEL tel: 82-51-461-9703 web: www.commodore.co.kr Beautifully designed traditional hotel. Close proximity to Busan Station. BUSAN TOURIST HOTEL tel: 82-51-241-4301 web: www.pusanhotel.co.kr Conveniently located next to the train station. Good for a cheap night’s rest. TOYOKO INN tel: 82-51-442-1045 web: www.toyoko-inn.com Affordably priced hotel, clean and 10 minutes away from the train station. PHOENIX HOTEL tel: 82-51-245-8061 web: www.hotelphoenix.net Highly trained staff, close to Nampodong. Popular with Japanese tourists. ELYSEE HOTEL tel: 82-51-241-4008 web: www.elyseemotel.com Affordable hotel with good amenities. Close to Nampo-dong.
BUSAN STATION GUKJE HOTEL tel: 82-51-642-1330 web: www.hotelkukje.com About 3 km away from the train station, close to Citizen’s Hall. TOYOKO INN tel: 82-51-442-1045 web: www.toyoko-inn.com
The second location, this one is a minute away from the train station.
OTHER AREAS PARAGON HOTEL [Sasang-gu] tel: 82-51-328-2001 web: www.hotelparagon.com Business comfort, with close proximity to Gimhae International Airport.
HI KOREA HOSTEL tel: 070-4409-3132 web: www.hikoreahostel.com email: hikoreahostel@gmail.com Your home away from home, Hi Korea Hostel offers you an affordable and comfortable accommodation just a stone’s throw away from Haeundae Beach.
BUSAN CENTRAL HOTEL [Yeonsan-dong] tel: 82-51- 866-6225 web: www.centralhotel.co.kr Adjacent to Yeonsan rotary, located 10 minutes away from City Hall. HOTEL NONGSHIM [Oncheonjeong] tel: 82-51-550-2100 web: www.hotelnongshim.com Great area around the hotel. Head north to PNU for original Busan nightlife.
BUDGET BUSAN YOUTH HOSTEL ARPINA [Haeundae] tel: 82-51-731-9800 web: www.arpina.co.kr Opened in 2004, a cheap place to stay for the night. Culture center inside. GOODSTAY THE PLANET GUESTHOUSE [Haeundae] tel: 010-2780-6350 web: www.earthlinghome.com Women-only dormitory across from Haeundae Beach in the Crystal Beach Office Tel. INDY HOUSE [Kyungsung Uni] tel: 82-70-8615-6442 Super cheap, dorm-style room right in the heart of Kyungsung. MARUB GUEST HOUSE [Haeundae] tel: 010-6322-3194 web: www.marubee.com Well-placed near restaurants, commercial area in Haeundae. POBI GUEST HOUSE [Haeundae] tel: 051-746-7990 web: www.guesthousekoreabusan.com Renovated guest houses three minutes from Haeundae Beach. SUM GUEST HOUSE tel: 070-8837-0700 web: www.sumhostel.com Renovated in 2011, they guarantee guests a pleasant stay whether in Busan for business or pleasure. HELLO GUEST HOUSE [Haeundae] tel: 051-746-8590 web: www.facebook.com/helloguesthousehello Friendly, clean and cozy atmosphere. Outdoor patio for your enjoyment. 2014 summer_ busanhaps.com 45
Nightlife & Dining Directory
GWANGALLI BEACHED CAFE AND SPORTS BAR [Kiwi Sports Bar] open: 6pm - late tel: 051-924-9662 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ beached-cafe-sports-bar This Kiwi-run sports bar has gained a loyal expat following for its spectacular bridge view and its wide array of Kiwi beer, the only place in the city to boast such a claim. Rugby is the sport of choice on the TV for the punters. BELLA CITTA [Italian] tel: 051-711-0010 web: www.busanhaps.com/food/bellacitta-italian Italian restaurant with an incredible interior, top notch menu and indoor garden seating. BURGER AND PASTA [International] open: 11am - 2am tel: 051-751-6631 web: www.busanhaps.com/food/burgerand-pasta-gwangan The second of the Burger and Pasta shops around the city, this international eatery offers a great view of the bridge while you enjoy your day on the sand. Burgers, pasta and brunch are on the menu in the stylishly decorated restaurant in the middle of the main drag of Gwangalli Beach. FOUR SEASONS [Raw Fish Korean] English speaking owner, 2nd fl. Fish Market. FUZZY NAVEL- MILLAK [Food/Bar] open: 11am - 6am tel: 051-754-6349 web: www.fncompany.co.kr It has fabulous views of Gwangalli Beach. Facing the Diamond Bridge, come enjoy a drink and some tacos on our patio. Great staff serve fresh made Mexican cuisine and will mix up your favorite cocktail. FUZZY NAVEL- GWANGALLI [Bar] open: 7pm - 6am web: www.fncompany.co.kr Located on the ground floor, offering a great view of the beach and bridge. Friendly staff serve excellent cocktails at the vintage-looking bar. Make sure you take advantage of the outside seating in the summertime. GALMEGI BREWING CO. [Craft Brew Pub] open: Mon - Fri 6-1am, Sat 2pm-2am, Sun 2pm-12am tel: 010-4469-9658 web: www.busanhaps.com/galmegibrewing Galmegi Brewing Co. is Busan’s first craft brew pub right on Gwangan Beach.
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THURSDAY PARTY [Korean/Expat Bar] open: 6pm - late web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ thursday-party A summer staple on Gwangalli Beach for the past couple of summers, Thursday Party has two locations situated next to each other on the east side of the beach. Both bars are similar to the Thursday Party city-wide theme, and offer a variety of American style pub grub to tempt your palate. WA BAR [Beer Bar] Wide selection of beer laid out for your choosing.
HAEUNDAE
HQ BAR [American/Sports Bar] open: 4pm on weekdays, 10:30am on weekends tel: 010-6561-8565 web: www.facebook.com/hq.bar.5 HQ’s new Gwangan location has the same massive selection of craft beers and cocktails, including our homemade infused liquors, but now sports one of the best views on the beach; a new and improved menu, including brunch items; and a projection screen for World Cup matches. SHARKY’S [American Sports Bar] open: 6 p.m. weekdays, 2 p.m. weekends tel: 010-4038-2907 (call for reservations) web: www.sharkysbusan.com Ranked highly on tripadvisor.com and as having the best burger in Busan by Haps, Sharky’s is a smoke-free environment where families or singles can enjoy a great drink and a fine meal. With premium-cut steaks, burgers, fresh gourmet salads and vegetarian options, Sharky’s has something for everyone. TAP AND TAPAS [Spanish] open: 3pm-5am tel: 051-746-6318 web: www.tapntapas.com Recently opened on the beach, Tap and Tapas serves up mouthwatering Spanish cuisine in a beautiful setting looking out to the Gwangalli Bridge. With an extensive menu and cocktail list, it’s a great meeting space for singles and couples out looking to impress.
AN GA [Korean] tel: 051-742-7852 Very popular bbq meat restaurant in Haeundae. BILLIE JEAN [Lounge/Live Music] tel: 051-742-0297 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ billiejean A Haps favorite. Great decor. BURGER AND PASTA [International] open: 11am - 2am web: www.busanhaps.com/food/burgerand-pasta-haeundae Recently opened, this Western/ Korean fusion style restaurant has been packing them in since day one. Burgers, pasta and brunch are on the menu in the stylishly decorated restaurant, where you can also imbibe yourself to a glass of wine, a cocktail or beer after your day on the beach. CHEOLMA HANWOO BULGOGI [Korean] tel: 051-709-4000 Bulgogi done at its best. CINE DE CHEF [Italian] tel: 051-745-2880 In Shinsegae, enjoy a good meal and a movie. EL OLIVE [Italian] tel: 051-752-7300 Delicious Italian, close to Costco. FUZZY NAVEL [Food/Bar] open: 11am - 6am tel: 051-746-6439 web: www.fncompany.co.kr Great location set on two floors near the beach, other bars, and clubs. Amazing Mexican food is served from lunchtime until the early hours of the morning. Friendly staff and outside seating makes Fuzzy Navel a place to hit when the weather is good. GANGA [Indian] Expect to pay some good money, but it’s worth it. GECKOS [Pub] Beach front bar. Consistently good food.
GEN SUSHI [Japanese] tel: 051-740-6630 Affordable sushi. Good stuff. HELLO THAI [Thai] tel: 051-731-5033 Good Thai food in the heart of Haeundae. MERCADO [Brazilian Steakhouse] open: 11:30 a.m. - 24:00 tel: 051-744-8807 web: www.mercado.co.kr An authentic southern Brazilian Churrascaria, Mercado is the perfect dining experience for family and friends. With eight choices of prime meat seasoned with Brazilian spices charcoaled and grilled to perfection, salads and Brazilian rice, this unique dining experience is like no other in the city. 247 [Pub Lounge] open: 6 a.m.- 6 p.m. tel: 1544-8247 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/247 An all-in-one establishment where dancing, drinking and fun are the name of the game. NAMASTE [Indian] tel: 051-746-1946 Indian fine dining. Good prices and great food. SHARKY’S [American Sports Bar] open: 6 p.m. weekdays, 2 p.m. weekends tel: 010-4038-2907 (call for reservations) web: www.sharkysbusan.com Ranked highly on tripadvisor.com and as having the best burger in Busan by Haps, Sharky’s is a smoke-free environment where families or singles can enjoy a great drink and a fine meal. With premium-cut steaks, burgers, fresh gourmet salads and vegetarian options, Sharky’s has something for everyone. Located on the second floor of Pale de Cz, next to the Paradise Hotel. SUNTORY [Japanese] Food and drink in a classy setting. Bonzai! TAO [American/Sports Bar] open: pub time 6 p.m.-12 a.m., club time 12 a.m.- 6 a.m. tel. 1544-8030 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ clubtao The newest edition to Haeundae beach, Club Tao perfectly matches style and elegance by combining a fantastic bistro menu with a nighttime club scene. TAP AND TAPAS [Spanish] open: 3pm-5am tel: 051-746-6318 web: www.tapntapas.com Recently opened, Tap and Tapas serves up high quality, well-presented Spanish cuisine in a striking
Dining & Food
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ALMOST FAMOUS [Dance/Techno] Funky atmosphere, great staff. AYUTA [Indian] Friendly staff, good food. BEIJING GO-CHI [Chinese] Great skewers, great food, cheap prices. BLUE MONKEY [Dance/Hip Hop] open: 7pm to late tel. 051-611-2888 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ blue-monkey BURGER AND PASTA [International] open: 11am - 11pm tel: 051-625-6651 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ burger-pasta With three locations around Busan, Burger and Pasta offer a solid menu, and reasonable prices that make them a hit with young Koreans and expats. Set in the traditional Thursday Party wooden decor, they offer pasta, burgers and a brunch with a small patio to enjoy the street catwalk on sunny days. CAFE RADIO [Cafe] Great atmosphere. Relax with a book. EVA’S TICKET [Western/Sports] Eva offers tons of things to keep you occupied.
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Haeundae Tourist Office
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4 6
Harbour Town
Haeundae Be
KYUNGSUNG
HAPS
Haeund
new setting in Haeundae. With an extensive menu of upscale cocktails and a tap room, it’s a great place to meet for an informal meeting, or out for a night on the town to impress. T.G.I. FRIDAY’S [Chain] tel: 051-740-6531 Good reliable chain in the Harbor Town building, across from the beach. THE WOLFHOUND PUB [Irish Pub] open: 6pm - 2am weekdays, 11am - 2am weekends tel: 051-746-7940 web: www.wolfhoundpub.com THURSDAY PARTY [Korean/Expat Bar] tel: 051-744-6621 open: 6pm - late web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ thursday-party A staple of the Busan landscape, Thursday Party Haeundae offers a casual, yet comfortable option after a day at the beach. With a patio for outdoor sitting, this open-aired spacious pub brings the usual quality service the locals and expats have come to expect from the Thursday Party empire. U2 BAR [Lounge] Great place to chill, awesome service, a Haeundae institution. VAN GOGH TERRACE [Italian] Nice view of the water while you eat.
HAEUNDAE
Daewoo Marina 1 Cha Haeb yun R
o
Sun Plaza Zenith Towers Zenith Square
WooShin Golden Suite
03 Marina Center
Bene City
03
04 02 Ro ity 1rine C
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Nightlife & Dining Directory FULLY BOOKED [Cafe/Bar] open: Tues-Thurs 7pm - 12am, Fri 7pm 1am, Sat 2pm - 2am, Sun 2pm - 12am tel. 070-8170-9628 web: www.busanhaps.com/fullybooked
[American/Korean Fusion] People rave about it. Nominated in Best Burger. INTERPLAY [Live Music/Event] Live music, hit or miss if you catch on a good night. HQ BAR [American/Sports Bar] MOO MONK [Live Music] open: Mon-Sat 6:00-Late, Sun 4:00-9:00 Can catch some great Korean indie tel: 010-7544-8830 bands here. web: www.facebook.com/hq.bar.5 HQ Bar is your place in KSU for RED BOTTLE [Korean/Expat Bar] drunken mistake-making. We have an Good spot to get a drink. ever-expanding variety of microbrew RISTORANTE [Italian] bottles and craft beers on tap; an extensive selection of late-night pub Great Italian fare at the Nongshim Hotel. SHABANA [Indian] grub; rugby, football, and kung fu tel: 051-517-1947 movies; and a music selection that, Nice Indian food for cheap. according to our customers, isn’t awful. SOULTRANE [Comedy/Event/Rock] tel: 051-515-1181 MONK’S JAZZ CLUB [Jazz Club] web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ Busan’s only jazz club. Tuesday nights soul-trane are hot. One of the oldest expat bars in the city, OL’ 55 [Live Music/Event] the once foreigner oriented Soultrane tel: 051-627-5645 nonetheless draws a healthy mix of web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ol’55 locals, expats and tourists. Ol’55 is located in the heart of Kyungsung University and is noted for its Open THE BASEMENT [Korean/Expat Bar] web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ Mic Wednesdays, which are known to basement host the best Korean and expat musiOne of the most popular bars in the area. cians in town. Always a great time, and anchors the PAINTED CHAIR CAFE [Cafe/Gallery] PNU scene. The art, the atmosphere. Good place THURSDAY PARTY [Korean/Expat Bar] to chill. open: 6pm - late SHABANA [Indian] web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ tel: 051-621-4821 thursday-pnu Good, affordable Indian food. The newest offering from Thursday Party brings its rustic charm to PNU. THE SUSHI [Japanese] Expect more of the same as the other tel: 051-611-4043 locations around the city, including Affordable, quality Japanese food. its great service and nightly crowds THURSDAY PARTY [Korean/Expat Bar] that TP has become famous for. open: 6pm - late web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ SEOMYEON thursday-party2 BUFFALO CHICKEN [Chicken] With ten Thursday Party’s around the tel: 051-805-3512 city, it has become a staple for the Good chicken chain with several interyoung, hip Korean university crowd esting sauces. and expats alike. Beer pong, sports BUONA OVEN PIZZA [Italian] on TV and the free curry popcorn or tel: 051-904-8239 salted spaghetti sticks are always in Nice, oven-baked pizza and spaghetti. play, as is a busy crowd almost every evening of the week. CLUB FIX [Nightclub] tel: 051-905-5777 VINYL UNDERGROUND web: www.clubfixkorea.info [Nightclub/Event Bar] New super club. International DJs and www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/vinyl Vinyl Underground is known as the spot dress code required. for live music in the Kyungsung area. DIVISION 9 [Lounge] Pinball, darts, basketball, drinking and PNU good fun. CROSSROADS [Live Music/Pub] DRAGON DREAM (THE CAVE BAR) open: 7pm-late [Korean] tel: 051-515-1181 tel: 051-646-5924 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ Very interesting decor with a nice seleccrossroads tion of food. A small, but atmospheric watering hole FOXY DANCE [Club] in PNU, Crossroads has been a Busan institution amongst the expats for years. Dance club, usually packed on the weekend. FARMERS BURGERS 48 HAPS_summer 2014
FUZZY NAVEL- SEOMYEON I [Food/Bar] open: 5pm - 6am tel: 051-808-1007 web: www.fncompany.co.kr Check out the newly refurbished bar offering a variety of entertainment including, soft darts, pool, and table soccer. Awesome DJs and a wide floor make this place to be at night. Also, new to Seomyeon, the same amazing Mexican food as served at the Haeundae Fuzzy Navel is prepared in our large renovated kitchen. FUZZY NAVEL- SEOMYEON Il [Bar] open: 5pm - 6am tel: 051-817-2242 web: www.fncompany.co.kr On the ground floor with a sliding window for when the weather is good, an excellent mix of Koreans and foreigners makes this a good place to make new friends. A comfortable atmosphere, where you will be looked after by the friendly staff, who will even give you a fireshow if you are celebrating a special occasion. HANGOVER [Western Pub] open: 6 p.m. to 2 a.m. Tuesday - Sunday tel: 070-7789-5868 web: www.busanhaps.com/freehousehangover From the good folks that brought you the great Italian food at Vito’s, this new eatery/bar located in the prime of Seomyeon brings delicious western food and fine tasting beer with its unique refrigeration system. ROCK N’ ROLL BAR [Rock] A true dive. Good atmosphere and pool and darts. T.G.I. FRIDAY’S [Chain] tel: 051-805-3164 Two locations in Seomyeon to choose from. THURSDAY PARTY [Korean/Expat Bar] open: 6pm - late tel: 051-818-6621 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ thursday-party-1 You can expect more of the same from the Seomyeon Thursday Party, which caters to a young, eclectic mix of Koreans and expats. Nestled amongst a slew of bars and restaurants behind Judie’s Taewha, Thursday Party stands out for their unique charm, quality service and hip atmosphere amongst the Korean cool. VITO [Italian] tel: 051-806-5868 web: www.busanhaps.com/food/vito Fashioned in the tradition of the small Italian trattoria, Vito brings back a taste of the old country.
NAMPO ARUN THAI [Thai] open: 11a.m. - 10 p.m. tel: 051-908-9085 web: www.facebook.com/arunthai.kr The chefs at Arun Thai bring you succulently prepared authentic Thai dishes at very reasonable rates. This delightful restaurant, nestled on the second floor some 50m in the back alleyway next to KFC, is a great meeting place, whether for a light lunch or large-scale dinner in a stylish environment with friendly service. FARMERS BURGERS [International] Enjoy a quality, fresh-made burger and fries on the roof. FUZZY NAVEL [Food/Bar] open: 6 p.m. - late tel: 051-244-6349 web: www.fncompany.co.kr With their newest location opening in Gwangbok in the Nampo-dong district, you can enjoy the freshness of their signature fruit cocktails in their new tiki-style bar that takes you away from the hustle and bustle of city life and transports you to the tropics. KUHN [Asian] Hosts a variety of Southeast Asian dishes at good prices. NEW LITTLE INDIA [Indian] open: 11am- 10pm tel: 051-245-4127 web: www.busanhaps.com/food/newlittle-india Situated on the second floor in the heart of Nampodong, New Little India specializes in the finest authentic Indian cuisine. THE PAN [Brunch] Nestled amongst a slew of outdoor terrace restaurants. THURSDAY PARTY [Korean/Expat Bar] open: 6pm - late web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ thursday-party-1 The Thursday Party Nampo store offers a slightly varied atmosphere than the others around the city, though by no means is it less exciting. A slightly more mixed crowd of expats and young Koreans is to be expected, as well as the great service that TP has become renowned for.
SERVICES DIRECTORY AIRLINES AIR BUSAN tel: 051-974-8686 web: www.busanair.com AIR FRANCE tel: 02-3483-1033 web: www.airfrance.co.kr
Dining & Food
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Bukyung University
Car Park
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McDonalds
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798 Nae-ri, Gijang-eup, Gijang-gun tel: 051-742-3332 web: www.bifskorea.org
Business
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BUSAN INTERNATIONAL FOREIGN SCHOOL
Homers Hotel
eon S uy
BUSAN JAPANESE SCHOOL 173-8 Millak-dong, Suyoung-gu tel: 051-753-4166 web: user.chollian.net/~pusjpnsc BUSAN OVERSEAS CHINESE KINDERGARTEN 548-1 Choryang-dong, Dong-gu tel: 051-468-2845 web: kbces.com.ne.kr
LEGEND
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FOREIGN SCHOOLS BUSAN FOREIGN SCHOOL 1366-3 Jwa-dong, Haeundae-gu tel: 051-747-7199 web: www.busanforeignschool.org
Aqua Palace Hotel vel Na zy 01 z u F to 0m 10
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GWANGAN BARS/PUBS/LOUNGES 01 Galmegi Brew House 02 Beach Bikini 03 Thursday Party 04 Fuzzy Navel 05 Beached 06 Sharky’s 07 Galmegi Brewing 08 Tap and Tapas RESTAURANTS 01 Burger n’ Pasta 02 Bella Citta 03 Blue Saigon CAFES 01 Tom n’ Toms 02 Twosome Place 03 Starbucks BUSINESS/OTHER 01 Kai Surf Shop 02 New Philadelphia Seaside Church KYUNGSUNG BARS/PUBS/LOUNGES 01 Almost Famous 02 Club Realize 03 HQ 04 Blue Monkey 06 Ho Bar 07 Thursday Party 08 New Foxy 09 Vinyl Underground 10 Ol’55 11 Fabric 12 Fully Booked 13 Monk RESTAURANTS 02 Burger & Pasta 03 Outback 04 Okkudak CAFES 01 Starbucks 02 Tom n’ Toms 03 Angel-In-Us 04 Angel-In-Us
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AMCHAM #4501, Trade Tower 159-1, Samsungdong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul tel: 02-564-2040 web: www.amchamkorea.org An independent association of American and international businesses, the role of the American Chamber of Commerce is to promote business and trade between the United States and Korea. ECCK 102-2903 WBC The Palace 1523, Haeundae-gu tel: 051-959-9695 web: www.ecck.eu The European Chamber of Commerce aims to provide an effective network of business associates together with discussion forums and seminars on how to do business in Korea, as well as an array of social networking events.
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BUSINESS ORGANIZATIONS
GWANGAN
2
ASIANA AIRLINES - INTERNATIONAL tel: 051-971-2626 web: www.flyasiana.com CEBU PACIFIC AIR tel: 051-462-0686 web: www.cebupacificair.com JEJU AIR tel: 070-7420-1502 web: www.jejuair.net KOREAN AIR - INTERNATIONAL tel: 051-970-3227 web: www.koreanair.com LUFTHANSA tel: 02-2019 0180 web: www.lufthansa.com KLM ROYAL DUTCH AIRLINES tel: 02-3483-1133 web: www.klm.com
To G wan g
GS Gas Station
2014 summer_ busanhaps.com 49
Services Directory
TESOL TRAINING KOTESOL Email: bgkotesol@gmail.com Facebook: Busan-Gyeongnam KOTESOL Chapter
KOREAN LESSONS BUSAN FOUNDATION FOR INTERNATIONAL ACTIVITIES tel: 051-668-7900 web: www.bfia.or.kr email: busanglobalcenter@gmail.com KLIFF tel: 051-513-0131 web: www.kliff.co.kr email: jennakang@hanmail.net PNU LANGUAGE EDUCATION CENTER tel: 051-510-1983 web: www.ili.pusan.ac.kr email: bangjy77@pusan.ac.kr
INFORMATION EXPAT ASSISTANCE CALL CENTER FOR FOREIGN RESIDENTS IN BUSAN tel: 1577-7716 FREE TRANSLATION SERVICE (BBB) tel: 1588-5644 MULTICULTURAL FAMILY SUPPORT CENTER tel: 1577-5432
INFORMATION CENTERS TOURIST INFORMATION SERVICE tel: 1330 BEXCO TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER tel: 051-740-7300 BUSAN GLOBAL CENTER tel: 1577-7716 BUSAN INT’L PASSENGER TERMINAL TOURIST INFORMATION tel: 051-465-3471 BUSAN STATION TOUR INFORMATION tel: 051-441-6565 GIMHAE INT’L AIRPORT TOUR INFORMATION (DOMESTIC) tel: 051-973-4607 GIMHAE INT’L AIRPORT TOUR INFORMATION (INTERNATIONAL) tel: 051-973-2800 HAEUNDAE TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER tel: 051-749-5700 INTERNATIONAL FERRY INFORMATION CENTER tel: 051-465-3471 NOPODONG BUS TERMINAL TOURIST INFORMATION 50 HAPS_summer 2014
tel: 051-508-9400 UN MEMORIAL CEMETERY TOURIST INFORMATION tel: 051-625-1608
MEDICAL DENTAL CLINICS NEW YORK SMILE ORTHODONTICS open: Mon-Wed, Fri 10:00am – 7:00pm, Sat 10:00am – 5:00pm tel: 051-702-6677 web: www.nycdortho.com At New York Smile Orthodontics, we provide specialized orthodontic care for children, teens and adults. We make every effort to provide affordable orthodontic treatment in a relaxed and caring manner to every individual who is unhappy with his or her smile. We use the most technologically-advanced orthodontic methods available including clear braces, self-ligating braces, invisalign, lingual braces and faster braces. BOSTON DENTAL open: Mon-Wed, Fri 9:30 am-7 pm, Thu 9:30 am-9 pm, Sat 9:30 am-2 pm tel:051-554-2879 web: blog.naver.com/boston8211 Located in Sooang-dong in Dongnae, Dr. Sim Kyeong-mok leads the team at Boston Dental for all your dental needs. With an English speaking staff and multiple degrees from America’s best dental schools, they are available to give you 100% success with implant services with their cuttingedge implant machine with a rich-full procedure experience. All dental services are available.
HEALTH CENTERS DONGNAE HEALTH CENTER 702-54, Myeongryun-2 dong, Dongnae-gu tel: 051-555-4000 HAEUNDAE HEALTH CENTER 1339, Jwa-2 dong, Haeundae-gu tel: 051-746-4000 JUNG-GU HEALTH CENTER 1 Ga 1, Daecheong-dong, Jung-gu tel: 051-600-4741
HERBAL CLINICS
DONGEUI UNIVERSITY HOSPITAL 397-3, Bujeon-1 dong, Busanjin-gu tel: 051-803-5430 GOOD SAMSUN HANBANG 1162-2, Jurye-dong, Sasang-gu tel: 051-325-0300
OTHER CLINICS
KHAP open: 10 am - 4 pm weekdays tel: 02-927-4322 web: www.khap.org The Korean Federation for HIV/AIDS Prevention offers three locations nationwide with additional services including counseling services to foreigners and migrant workers face to face and by telephone. With a number of foreign languages available to have consultation, KHAP has become one of the most recognized HIV/AIDS information base in the Republic of Korea.
HOSPITALS BUK-GU/DONGNAE BUMIN HOSPITAL 380-4, Deokcheon 1-dong tel: 051-330-3000 web: www.buminhos.co.kr DONG EUI MEDICAL CENTER San 45-1, Yangjeong 2-dong tel: 051-867-5101 web: www.demc.kr DONGNAE BONG SENG HOSPITAL 766, Anlak 1-dong tel: 051-531-6000 web: www.bongseng.com DONGRAE WOORIDUL HOSPITAL 205-10, Nakmin-dong tel: 051-559-5000 web: www.dongrae.wooridul.co.kr INJE UNIVERSITY BUSAN PAIK HOSPITAL 633-165, Gaegum 2-dong tel: 051-893-7761
DONG-GU GOOD MOONHWA HOSPITAL open: 24 hours tel: 051-630-0123 web: www.moonwha.or.kr Good Moonhwa Hospital has become famous for its success in IVF for the first time as a private medical facility in Busan and Gyeongnam area. With 36 years experience and service in English, Japanese, Chinese and Russian, this full-service hospital has everything to take care of your medical needs.
HAEUNDAE HYOSUNG CITY HOSPITAL 1094-2, Jaesong 1-dong tel: 051-709-3000 web: www.hshos.com INJE UNIV. HAEUNDAE PAIK HOSPITAL
1435, Jwa-dong tel: 051-797-0100 web: www.paik.ac.kr/Haeundae
JUNG-GU HAEYANG HOSPITAL 80-8 Jungang-dong 4-ga tel: 051-469-4456 web: www.haeyang.net MARYKNOLL MEDICAL CENTER 12, Daecheong-dong 4-ga tel: 051-465-8801 web: www.maryknoll.co.kr
NAM-GU BUSAN ST. MARY'S MEDICAL CENTER 538-41, Yongho 4-dong tel: 051-933-7114 web: www.bsm.or.kr
SEO-GU DONG-A UNIVERSITY MEDICAL CENTER 3-ga, #1 Dongdaeshin-dong tel: 051-240-2400 web: www.damc.or.kr PUSAN NATIONAL UNIVERSITY HOSPITAL 10, Ami-dong 1-ga tel: 051-254-0171 web: www.pnug.co.kr
SUYEONG BUSAN CENTUM HOSPITAL 1077-1, Gwangan 3-dong tel: 051-760-5000 web: www.centumhospital.com BUSAN HANNAH WOMAN'S HOSPITAL 304, Namcheon-dong tel: 051-625-2300 web: www.hannah4u.co.kr GOOD GANGAN HOSPITAL 40-1, 41-9, Namcheon-dong tel: 051-625-0900 web: www.gang-an.or.kr
RELIGIOUS SERVICES AL-FATIH MASJID MOSQUE Namsan-dong, #30-1 Guemjeong-gu tel: 051-518-9991 web: www.busanislam.or.kr Services: 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily GIFT MINISTRY Myung-nyun-dong, Dongnae-gu tel: 010-7999-8644 web: www.tinyurl.com/lifeisagift Services: Saturdays,10:30 a.m. HOSANNA CHURCH Myeongji-dong, #3245-5 Gangseo-gu,
GWANGBOK 20-1, 7 ga, Jung-ang Dong, Jung-gu, Busan tel: 051-678-2500 SEOMYEON Bujeondong, Busan-jingu, Busan tel: 051-810-2500 HYUNDAI DEPT. STORE 62-5, Beomil-dong, Dong-gu, Busan
Sojeon Road 12
Bar/Pub/Lounge
Taewha 03 Judie’s Dept. Store 01
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Jungkangdae Road
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Lotte Hotel & Seven Luck Casino
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Lotte Dept. Store
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Yongdusan Park
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03 Busan Modern History Museum
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Daegaksa Temple
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Busan Tower
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Jalgalchi Fish Market
rgroun
NAMPO-DONG RESTAURANTS 01 Arun Thai 02 KFC 03 The Pan 04 The Pho 05 New Little India 06 Farmers Burgers 07 McDonalds CAFES 01 Caffe Bene 02 Starbucks 03 Angel-In-Us 04 Holly’s 05 The Cafe 06 Caffe Bene
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DONGNAE 502-3, Oncheonjeong, Dongnae-gu, Busan tel: 051-605-2500
Club
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FOUR LOCATIONS CENTUM CITY 1496, U Dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan tel: 051-730-2500
Business
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DEPT. STORES LOTTE DEPT. STORE www.lotteshopping.com Open: 10:30 ~ 20:00
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SHOPPING
02
LEGEND
SEOMYEON CLUBS 01 Fix 02 Foxy BARS/PUBS/LOUNGES 01 Rock n’ Roll 02 Spot 03 Thursday Party 04 Fuzzy Navel 05 Fuzzy Navel II 06 Hangover RESTAURANTS 01 Vito 02 TGI Friday’s CAFES 01 Angel-In-Us 02 Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf 03 Twosome Place 04 Tom n’ Toms BUSINESS 01 Kangs Dental 02 Apple Store 03 St. Louis Dental
Dongcheon Road
Namp
BUSAN MUSEUM OF ART 40, Apec-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan tel: 051-740-2602 web: www.art.busan.go.kr Opening Hours - 09:00 ~ 20:00 Closed - Jan. 1, Every First Monday Admission Fee - Free BUSAN MODERN HISTORY MUSEUM 104, Daechung-ro, Jung-gu, Busan tel: 051-253-3845 web: www.modern.busan.go.kr Opening Hours - 09:00 ~ 18:00 Closed - Jan.1, Every First Monday Admission Fee - Free BUSAN MUSEUM 63, UN Peace-ro, Nam-gu, Busan tel: 051-610-7111 web: www.museum.busan.go.kr Hours of operation - 09:00 ~ 20:00 Closed - Jan. 1, Every First Monday Admission fee - Free BUSAN UN MEMORIAL CEMETERY AND PARK 779, Daeyon 4 dong, Nam-gu, Busan tel: 051-625-0625 web: www.unmck.or.kr Hours of operation - 09:00 ~ 17:00 Open Year Round Admission fee - Free
MAPS
04
Dongcheon Road
Cosmetic Surgery Street
MUSEUMS
HAPS
Jungang Middle School
D City Dept Store
Sojeon Road
NEW PHILADELPHIA CHURCH Suyeong-gu Gwangan 2-dong 199-6 (8th floor) tel: 051-932-6832 web: www.newphilly.cc Services: Sundays, 2:30 pm
SEOMYEON
Kayodae Road
tel: 051-209-0191 web: www.him-busan.blogspot.com Services: Sundays, 12:30 p.m.
06
PIFF Squaure
Gukje Market
Restaurant Cafe
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2014 summer_ busanhaps.com 51
Services Directory tel: 051-667-2233 Open: 10:30 ~ 20:00
tel: 051-668-7900 web: www.bfia.or.kr
SHINSEGAE DEPT. STORE (CENTUM CITY) 1495 Wu-dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan tel: 1588-1234 web: www.english.shinsegae.com Open: 10:30 ~ 20:00
BUSAN FRIENDSHIP GROUP www.meetup.com/Pusans
CLOTHING/SPORTS KAI SURF SHOP 183-11 Gwangan-dong, Suyeong-gu tel: 051-753-2746
SOCIAL/NON-PROFIT ORGANIZATIONS BUSAN BANDITS RUGBY Facebook Group: Busan Bandits BUSAN BOOK SWAP Facebook Group: Busan Book Swap BUSAN BOWLING LEAGUE Contact: David Alderman tel: 010.7919.1223 Facebook Group: Busan Bowling League BUSAN FOUNDATION FOR INTERNATIONAL ACTIVITIES
ULTIMATE FRISBEE LEAGUE Email: ch.pyles@gmail.com BTC FOOTBALL FB Group: Busan Transportation Corporation Supporters Fanpage EPIK TEACHERS IN BUSAN Facebook Group: Busan EPIK EXPAT SAILING CLUB Contact: Mark Chi email: Koreasailing@gmail.com web: www.busansailing.com LAOCHRA BUSAN GAELIC ATHLETIC ASSOCIATION CLUB Contact: Peter Bonner email: busangaa@gmail.com Facebook Group: Laochra Busan Members
GROCERIES COSTCO web: www.costco.co.kr E-MART
web: www.emart.com HOMEPLUS web: www.homeplus.co.kr MEGAMART web: www.megamart.co.kr
INTERNET GROCERIES EZSHOP KOREA web: www.ezshopkorea.com HIGH STREET MARKET open: 24/7 online, Seoul in-store 10am to 10pm daily. tel: 02-2201-0652 web: highstreet.co.kr email: hsmonline@authenticgroup.co.kr High Street Market has all your favorite foods from home ready for delivery to your workplace or doorstep for just W3,000! Hard-to-find western foods, sliced-to-order deli meats, imported premium cuts of meat, gourmet cheeses, variety of spices, homemade vegan & gluten free foods and more. NICE MARKET web: www.nicemarket.net
FAST FOOD MCDONALDS tel: 1600-5252 web: www.mcdonalds.co.kr LOTTERIA tel: 1600-9999 web: www.lotteria.com BURGER KING No delivery web: www.burgerking.co.kr KFC No delivery web: www.kfckorea.com QUIZNOS No delivery web: www.quiznos.co.kr
FIND MORE INFORMATION ON THE BUSANHAPS.COM DIRECTORY
Humetro Call Center Lost & Found Center
52 HAPS_summer 2014
Seomyeon Stn.
FREE OUTDOOR
MOVIE SCREENINGS BUSAN CINEMA CENTER OUTDOOR THEATER EACH WEDNESDAY, 8 P.M.
Enjoy a free movie on Busan Cinema Center’s massive outdoor screen each Wednesday this summer at 8 p.m.
PNU
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Time: 8 p.m. Venue: Busan Cinema Center Outdoor Theater Tickets: Free Web: www.dureraum.org
LEGEND Business Club Bar/Pub/Lounge Restaurant
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04 Crossroads 04 Soultrane 05 Red Bottle 06 Interplay 07 Moo Monk 08 Bling RESTAURANTS 01 Won Chon 02 The Box 03 Tajmahal CAFES 01 Angel-In-Us 02 Charlie Brown 03 Twosome Place 04 Starbucks 05 Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf
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ad
Note: Schedule and movie may change without notice. Photo: Coop Himmelblau
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Geumjeong Ro
FILM LIST June 11: I Love You June 25: The Miracle of Bern July 2: Untouchable July 9: Miracle in Cell No.7 July 16: Mamma Mia August 13: Black August 20: The Kid with a Bike August 27: The Umbrellas of Cherbourg September 3: French Cancan September 10: 3 Idiots September 17: Midnight in Paris
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The Last Word
Tharp On:
Motorcycles By Chris
Tharp Illustration By Michael Roy
“We wanna be free. We wanna be free to do what we wanna do. We wanna be free to ride. We wanna be free to ride our machines without being hassled by The Man. And we wanna get loaded!!!” - Peter Fonda, Wild Angels I knew something was terribly wrong when I heard the horn blast, so close, followed by screaming rubber. My blood turned to ice, knowing that things were totally out of my control—that the only factor between living and dying was just how quickly that driver could manage to slow down. Impact. Spinning. An audible crunch. Thud. When I came to, I was on the pavement. My shoulder was on fire. A nova of pain radiated from my lower left leg, now bent at a 90-degree angle. I could see the jagged end of my shin bone sticking out through black denim. I was overwhelmed and disoriented and wanted to puke. The only thing I knew was that I wouldn’t be walking away. Motorcycles. Yeah, they’re dangerous, but they’re among the most thrilling inventions of mankind. They represent the ideas of absolute freedom and total individualism. Jump on and go wherever you want. They’ve been mythologized and romanticized in cinema and song as the symbol of a modern iconoclast, outlaw or free thinker. And when you ride, you’re much more in touch with your surroundings than you are within the aluminum box of a car. I was so in touch with my surroundings that I bounced off its bumper, but there is something immensely satisfying about tasting the air and smelling the trees and feeling the wind whip around you. There’s just nothing that compares to cruising down the open road on the back of a bike. Riding in a large Korean city such as Busan is a different matter. You’re more likely to taste exhaust, smell raw sewage and feel the angry glares of chain-smoking taxi drivers. And there’s usually not a lot of ‘open road.’ You spend most of your time weaving between cars or dodging blue and orange busses piloted by sadistic men who probably grew up torturing animals. It’s a grueling, gory free-for-all out there, and motorcycles get little respect. They are widely viewed as the rodents of the Korean road food chain: annoying little creatures to be exterminated and preyed upon. People swerve into your lane without caring if you’re already occupying it, signals be damned; they whizz by in lethal vehicles just millimeters from your soft body—one 54 HAPS_summer 2014
miscalculation and you’re jiggae, buddy; they pull out from side streets straight in front of you, just daring you to do them a favor and slam into their shiny, expensive front fender. Go ahead punk. Make my quota. Riding in the city is a death wish, yet so many of us do it. The motorcycle or scooter is the preferred method of personal transportation for the expatriate in Korea. Sure some tubby, old lifers drive cars, but far more of us zip around on motorbikes. Why is this? One reason is that they’re cheap. Just a few hundred bucks will set you up with a decent, functional bike, but more that that, they’re fun. Humming around on a bike is a kick in the pants. Suddenly, every grocery trip to Homeplus becomes the trailer for Easy Rider 2: Cruising the Far East. And they’re inherently cool. Random, young Korean guys will see you on a bike and shout out, “Oh! Otobi very good! Handsome guy!!!” You can imagine yourself a badass biker as you pull into the school where you teach, a proper Hell’s Angel, with a backpack containing a set of flashcards, a bingo game and Let’s Go 3.
Most riders in Korea have a fairly elastic interpretation of traffic laws, meaning that they don’t view them as laws at all, but merely suggestions. And the cops don’t seem to mind. Sometimes they’ll pull riders over for not wearing a helmet, but otherwise you have carte blanche to take your machine wherever you want in whichever manner you deem fit. Red lights are just friendly warnings. Crosswalks were made to be blasted through at full speed—the more pedestrians, the better. And the sidewalk? That’s the golden highway, baby! Ask anyone who owns a bike: It’s like riding through butter. Even ‘60s rockers Steppenwolf allude to it in their classic song, “Born to Be Wild”: I like smoke and lightning Oriental sidewalks Shooting through a red light On a Daelim Daystar gearbox
YOU HAVE CARTE BLANCHE TO TAKE YOUR MACHINE WHEREVER YOU WANT IN WHICHEVER MANNER YOU DEEM FIT. RED LIGHTS ARE JUST FRIENDLY WARNINGS. CROSSWALKS WERE MADE TO BE BLASTED THROUGH AT FULL SPEED —THE MORE PEDESTRIANS, THE BETTER. Motorcycles, like drugs or extreme sports, are addictive. I certainly feel the jones to ride again, despite the fact that I’m still hobbling around on a crutch. Why? Because riding makes us feel so alive, despite the fact that we’re only inches from death. I found that out the hard way. Luckily, I avoided being turned into jiggae, though my leg did look a bit like pajeon. So enjoy it while it lasts. Korea is where the free spirit ideals of riding a motorcycle are made even freer: Riders are unburdened from the yoke of traffic laws altogether. It’s still pretty much anything-goes out there, and despite the risks of grievous bodily harm, I think Peter Fonda would dig the scene. Korea is a great place to ride our machine without being hassled by The Man, and yes, it’s also a great place to get loaded.
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