Busan Haps Iss 10 by Haps Magazine

contents winter

features

jingle all the wave 18 the marmot 22 allive: battle of the bands 24

spotlight on

fashion

finding your style 10 street chic 11 busan, the facts 12 business maker profile 26

regulars

events 04 short stuff 06 area maps 34 survival korean 38 tharp on 39 subway map 40

review

iPhone vs Galaxy S 08 movie review 24

guides

music

winter walks 17 ski guide 20 food 32 night life 33

tuning into the tenth Comparing the 10th issue with the 1st issue offers the stark contrast of starting and then continuing a magazine. While there are the obvious design differences, improvement in format, content broadening, better editing, more voice in much of the writing, and a semblance of understanding that certain colors match, what most separates Issue One and Issue Ten is that there are more people involved. A little family has formed at the nucleus. I was used to being the only passionate (anal) person on staff, and now I am surrounded by equally anal (passionate) people. Isn’t that nice? The ‘theme’ of Issue 10 (sort of) is winter and a blizzard of other stuff. There’s been a bit more zip injected into Haps 2.0. And if nothing else than being pleased to provide more information in a sleeker format, I can look forward to a future giving 50-word assignments for one of the new review sections and having a writer turn in 500. In this issue, Michael Henderson deftly dishes out some fashion, Jen Sotham dishes out something from her kitchen, and Tharp disses out some sunny satire. Thomas is back with his very sharp cinema prose, there’s an intriguing interview with the Robert Koehler a.k.a. “The Marmot”, a ski guide, new listings and (insert blizzard metaphor here) of other stuff. As I sit at my desk going through the final edits on this lovely Tuesday morning at 5:07 a.m. —six hours from printing — it’s great to see Jen Sotham and Chris Tharp as writers on the masthead. Just as they were, (and only they were) in the very first issue of Haps. And of course, as always, there’s Mikey. Hey, brother, we made it. Have a happy and productive 2011~

VS tech

ceo: Ju Shin-hye editor in chief: Bobby McGill marketing director: Michael Schneider art director: Russell McConnell public relations director: Petra Jung managing editor: Jeff Liebsch public relations: July Chai

contributing photography: writers: Mike Dixon Jen Sotham Chris Tharp Michael Henderson Thomas Bellmore Jeff Liebsch Gus Swanda Bobby McGill Tory Mock J. Lipsky Vincent Nance Ron Cielo

Ben Weller Peter DeMarco Matthew Hanson Bart Noszka BMc Doug Walsh

layout:

advertising:

RMc/BMc

illustration: Kelsey L. Smith

submissions:

busanhaps@gmail.com mikey.busanhaps@ gmail.com

busanhaps.com/calendar

Vienna Boyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Choir January 16 Busan Cultural Center 051.582.2026

events winter

Ha Jung-ung Collection: Henry Miller Through February 6 Busan Museum of Modern Art www.busanmoma.org

Lee Myoung-ho Photography Through January 16 GoEun Museum, Dalmaji www.goeunmuseum.org Sting Live in Seoul January 11 Olympic Park. Seoul www.ticket.interpark.com

Park Seo-Bo: A Retrospective Through February 20 Busan Museum of Modern Art www.busanmoma.org

SHORTstuff

KTX Chipping Away at the Airlines

Since KTX completed the final sections of track between Busan and Seoul, the sprint from one to the other is now only 2 hours and 18 minutes — with stopovers in Daejeon, Daegu, Gyeongju and Ulsan. That includes the quick hop from here to the historic city of Gyeongju in a mere 38 minutes. While this bodes well for travelers, Korea’s budget airline, Busan Air, is less than thrilled to see someone else chipping away at their market share of domestic passengers. As a result, the airline is offering new promotional packages and improved services to lure people back into the air. A one-way ticket on the KTX from Busan to Seoul runs 55,500 won, while the price on Air Busan’s site (as of printing) is 52,200 won. Other than the occasional need for the thrill of flying, the train has the advantages of easy access and dropping you off right in downtown Seoul, rather than at the airport on the outskirts of town. While the land and the air duke it out over the domestic market, they are both looking to increase profits internationally as well. Air Busan announced plans to open flights between Busan and Cebu in the Philippines, and a Busan to Taipei route by January — this after opening routes to Fukuoka and Osaka, Japan in 2010. Likewise, KTX is setting its sights abroad by bidding on a $20 billion contract for a rail project in Brazil. Their bid is in, along with rivals from Japan, China and France. The Korean consortium which manages KTX, is also in on the bidding for a bullettrain system in California. Korea currently ranks fourth in high speed train technology after France, Germany, and Japan. For more travel info on KTX or Busan Air, check out their websites: KTX: www.korail.com Air Busan: www.en.airbusan.com

KT Sonic Boom Back on the Court The Busan KT SonicBoom season is well underway, and they are picking up where they left off last season at the top of the league standings. Last year, they finished second in the KBL with a 40-14 record before losing in the semifinals. The Boom are led this season by American import players, Charles Rhodes and the 2010 season’s third leading scorer, Jasper Johnson. www. busanhaps.com/ boom

Dinosaur Named after Korea A paleontological first! We give you, Koreanosaurus Boseongensis. The 2.4 meter Hypsilophodontid, or small ornithopod, declined corporate sponsorship and went with a more Latin-esque appellation. Koreanosaurus, who clocked in at about 100kg (220lbs), was known to frequent the southeastern coast of Korea during the Late Cretaceous Period, which ran from 65.5 million to 99.6 million years ago. Ulsan is a great spot you can hit for a day and check out fossilized dino-footprints.

Survey: 70% Say “Welcome!” A recent survey by the Korea Times found that seven out of ten Koreans support the idea of using a constitutional amendment to promote and safeguard cultural diversity in the ROK. The survey also found younger people more open-minded to Korea becoming a multicultural society, while older people were more resistant — no surprise there anywhere in the world. According to the poll, 80.6% of people in their 20s favored a constitutional guarantee of cultural diversity, while 50.8% of those in their 60s or older opposed any measures. An interesting finding in the survey was that 29.7% of those polled believe “equal work, equal pay” should not be applied to foreigners residing in Korea. They probably were the vocal minority behind the netizen backlash last year when Rep. Jun Byung-hun (DP) submitted an anti-discrimination bill in parliament. The public outcry forced him to remove the clause on wage discrimination based on race.

Yes, It’s Here

ust in time for the indoor season, (and enough time for domestic tablet makers to beef up their brand), the Apple iPad is finally on the Korean peninsula. Sadly, it arrives here with the release of iPad 2, which is expected in the U.S. in January or February. In the nine months since its release, the iPad has sold 7.5 million units worldwide. In Korea, pre-sales of the iPad started in the middle of November by KT. The iPad’s 3G model, which connects to the Internet via cellular networks and WiFi, will be sold with a minimum two-year contract. The move also coincided with SK Telecom’s release of the Galaxy Tab, Samsung Electronics first tablet which has sold a million units already. It has a 7-inch screen, compared to Apple’s 9.7, giving the Galaxy, as Time put it, “a go-anywhere personality.” Interestingly, the Samsung model is more expensive than the iPad, which will sway a lot of folks towards Apple—once again. HP and Blackberry are expected to release tablets this year, though no word on when they will make it to Korea. 2010/2011 winter_BUSANHAPS 07

HAPS TECH

iPHONE 4

Display Resolution 960 x 640 pixels Screen Size 3.5 in Camera: 5 megapixels Memory: 16 & 32 GB

VS GALAXY S

They are the two hottest smart phones on the Korean market. Which one should you buy?

Display Resolution 480 x 800 pixels Screen Size 4 in Camera: 5 megapixels Memory: 8 & 16 GB

o, you are sitting on the telephonic fence as to which smart phone you should buy. A lot of us are dumb about such things, so we turn to our friends. Well, it turns out, a lot of them are dumb too, and considering the money you’re gonna shell out, you should consult a professional. That is not us — but we occasionally read, so we’ll take a shot at it. Your first concern should be the two-year contract. Are you ready for that kind of commitment? And, as an expat here in Korea, there is an additional worry: Will the relationship you have with the neccessary Korean co-signer endure as long as the two-year contract required? If you are ok with with this level of subordination, then you really should get a smart phone. Why not? It’s an extra 5 to 10 bucks more a week, and is a requirement on your tech-evolution check list. Now, the question is: Which of the two should you dedicate your life to? Here are the basic comparisons.

The Cameras Korea is the kingdom of self pics. If you want to do as the Romans, or if you just want something you can quickly upload to Facebook to show people what an interesting life you lead, then the camera is important on a phone. Both the iPhone 4 and the Galaxy S have a high quality, 5-megapixel camera, and both have lenses in the front and the back for video calling. The iPhone has a flash, which is absent on the Galaxy S. This is good for those low-light Facebook moments of your interesting life in the pub. Winner: iPhone.

The Screens The most obvious difference you notice with the two phones side-by-side, is that the screen on the Galaxy S runs a half inch larger. While the iPhone sports the best screen resolution out there, and the near impossibility of seeing a pixel even with the phone right up in your face, the 4-inchscreen on the Galaxy has one advantage that all the resolution in the world will not help you with: video play. The iPhone 4 screen is stunning for its clarity, but the Galaxy S, with the larger view, is much better suited for video playback. The problem for 3.5 inch screens, like iPhone, is fitting the 16:9 aspect ratio of widescreen movies. The display has only the choice to zoom in on center (thus losing the sides) or compress. Either way, not good.

Apple. The Galaxy S has Google Android which is solid, but suffers under the weight of Apple’s massive App Store. Android is catching up, but they’re still not there yet in terms of app selection. On the plus side, Android gives you an egalitarian feeling from knowing you are using a democratic operating system, and not living underneath a Steve Job’s dictatorship.

No matter which The OS’s A slam against Apple since its foundyou choose, you're ing, has been the control-freak nature of the While they have been better off than that knowncompany. to produce some crappy seccup and string flip ondary software, Apple has always cutting-edge OS’s, regardless phone you’ve got made of the platform they run on. The race for the coolest new user-friendly OS on you now. is always a race for second, following

08 BUSANHAPS_winter 2010/2011

The Verdict None really, but what did you expect in a half page article? They are are both solid, reliable phones and you should buy one of them. No matter which one you choose, you will be better off than you are now with that cup-and-string-flip-phone sitting in your pocket or purse.

EARTHLY

possessions

Samsung G Series Drive Ok, so it looks like a gas pedal, and the fact that it is a hard drive plays right into the obvious metaphor. We refuse to pass that up and will cut to the car chase. Grrr. The Samsung G Series (which comes in a variety of non-pedal looking colors), is a cool little hard drive with 500 gigabytes under the hood for all those pirated movies that you aren’t downloading (your secret is safe with us). The G Series will run you about 100,000 won — our silence on your varied illicit activities is negotiable.

Treksta Kisatchie Designed right here in B-Town, the Kisatchie’s namesake comes from the national forest in Lousiana. And appropriately so, since it has a very jazzy-cool look — essential when you are out there in Busan’s hiking fashion race. 120,000 won

A Huge Monitor Take your pick: from the LG shown here, a Samsung or an HP — you deserve to go big. Regardless of what you are looking at, or regardless of what you shouldn’t be looking at, a mere 300-400K will give you a warm display to help get you through the long winter.

Northface Cat’s Meow Sleeping Bag There are those among us who thrive on the insane — like winter camping. If so, this bag will keep you warm in sub-zero temperatures. It even comes with a “no-snag” zipper for avoiding an “American Pie” moment, should you take your sleeping habits at home out into the wild—au naturel. You can get one here for about 300k, or have your family ship you one from back home for about a 100k less. Go for it, you only die once. If you get the featured mountain bike, you will have a very cool matching set to impress fellow campers. In case your sense of humor doesn’t work out.

Giant XTC This 27-speed, hydraulic-disk brake, aluminum-framed mountain machine will set you back 2.3 million won. We suggest you avoid turning El cheapo when you buy the lock and hire yourself a personal security guard instead.

2010/2011 winter_BUSANHAPS 09

HAPSSPOTLIGHT

FINDING YOUR

style O

nce the bastion of middleaged women selling black market goods, film festivals and fish markets, Busan’s original downtown has re-emerged as one of the city’s premier shopping districts. From a high-street featuring a plethora of labels for the brand conscious, backstreets and alleyways awash with independent designs and vintage stores, and the temple of conspicuous consumption, Lotte Department Store, there is plenty to see and do in this once again thriving area. In a word, Nampo-dong is the new black. Much has been made of Korean fashion since the explosion of pop culture in this country, and although celebrities have their part to play in the rise of trends, people on the street are also creating their own unique styles. Judging by the acres of column space dedicated to fashion in magazines, newspapers, websites, and TV, fashion is no longer the domain of an elite clique. Koreans in particular, have long worshipped style over substance, and in a city where you are what you wear, your fashion sense — or lack of it — telegraphs more about you than a well-padded CV ever could. Whether you want to dress like a rock star, a modern dandy or a Harajuku heroine, Nampo-dong offers a wealth of options to the savvy shopper and the fashionably challenged alike. Along the main thoroughfare, one would be hard-pressed to throw a handbag without hitting a major retail brand. ‘Mango’, currently channelling 1970s icons from Diane Keaton to Jerry Hall, ‘Guess’, ‘Tommy Hilfiger’, ‘Tiger Shoes’, ‘Doc Martens’, ‘Levis’ with well-fitting denim to show off your...ahem,

10 BUSANHAPS_winter 2010/2011

nampo dong

Life is a fashion show. The sooner you realize it, the better off you are. While there are many options for answering the slave call to fashion, Nampo-dong offers you anything and everything all in one spot. By Michael Henderson best assets, ‘American Apparel’ for trustworthy basics, ‘Triumph Underwear’, ‘Accessorise’ which sells enough bling to have you clanking down the street like a byzantine empress, and ‘Ralph Lauren’ all have outposts here. In addition to having slews of stores scattered across the globe, Spanish super label ZARA maintains a stylish presence at Nampodong’s Lotte Department Store, carrying men’s, women’s and children’s clothing and stocking sizes that go above toothpick. Every street is a catwalk in the maze of alleyways that make up Nampo-dong’s market. Men are particularly well-catered to in this area with a wealth of independent stores, whose stylistic offerings range from classic suits with a twist — this is Korea after all — to skinny jeans so tight, your religion is clearly discernible. This area of Nampo-dong has also seen the rise of vintage stores carrying YSL, Prada, Chanel, Westwood, D&G and the ubiquitous Vuitton. But be warned: pre-loved labels seldom come at a pre-loved price, and

a hand-me-down Chanel suit will still make a hole in the healthiest of bank accounts. For a fraction of the price, good quality copies of highend designer brands are available at the stands that line the markets main artery. Perennial favorites that are well worth the investment and are on trend season after season, leather and fur can be easily found in stalls dotted around the market. So, this winter, upgrade your style. There is no doubt that if you look good, you feel good, and with the veritable smorgasbord of fashion that Nampo-dong offers, there can be no excuse for not putting your best foot forward. Whether that foot be clad in Converse or vintage Jimmy Choo, however, is completely up to you.

STREET

chic

1. name:Ju kyong age:27 job: office worker where do you shop? nampodong personal style: vintage 2. name: Seung hae & Sae young age: 19 job: students/models where do you shop? small stores Seoul and Busan personal style: chic 3. name: Yu jin age:25 job: retail assistant where do you shop? department stores personal style: popular/trendy but nothing too outrageous

4. name: Duk hyun age: 21 job: retail assistant where do you shop? nampodong personal style: dandy style 5. name: Ju jin age: 29 job: nail artist where do you shop? boutiques, department stores personal style: loose tops with leggings, comfortable 6. name: Jae kyoung age: 24 job:kindergarten teacher where do you shop? nampodong personal style: oversize items

7. name: Lucas Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Clothing age: 30s job: clothing store owner where do you shop? nampodong personal style: monotones baggy pants- no more skinny jeans! 5.

8. name: Lucas Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Clothing age: 20s job: clothing store owner where do you shop? nampodong personal style: monotones with a punk twist

6. 7.

8. 2010/2011 winter_BUSANHAPS 11

BUSAN

Number of Busan ‘Sister’ Cities

just the facts

Average days of snowfall yearly

47%

Of foreigners living ..in Busan are women

Most Populated Areas

>Haeundae 427,619 >Busanjin 398,101 >Buk Gu 315,606 >Nam Gu 301,043 >Dongnae 282,525 Of the total population of 40,913 foreigners in Busan, 21,741 are men, 19,172 are Women. 33,446 are residents. Of that group 15,583 are here on work visas, 5,597 are married to Koreans, 5,819 are students, 1,311 are Koreans from overseas and the remaining 5,136 are here for what is termed as ‘miscellaneous’ reasons.

Average Rainfall 1491 mm / 58 inches Per Year.

50% Falls in June, July and August

14 BUSANHAPS_october/november 2010

12 BUSANHAPS_winter 2010/2011

Busiest container port in the world

Tons of fish hauled in every day:

1,163

Traffic Accidents take place on the road every day

KEWLtee’s

BUSAN ENGLISH

library

By Vincent Nance

lright, maybe we are only the second biggest city in Korea, but we have the biggest English library on the peninsula. So, there. Located on the fifth floor of the Global Village in Buam near Seomyeon, you can get books ranging from Dan Brown to Dr. Seuss, along with educational resources, magazines, and DVDs. A library card is free to anyone who saunters through the door with an ID. While Busan English Library (BEL) is officially a “library”, the main goal is English education for the community. Originally, when they opened in 2009, they offered free English programs to students ranging in age from elementary to high school, but the new branch director, Sunja Oh, recently implemented additional programs for parents and other adults who wish to learn as well. For expat visitors looking to check out books, there is a period of minor adjustment to the filing system. Being that it is an English library located in a country whose official language is Korean, the materials have been arranged in a way that is more functional for the majority of its visitors. Rather than being organized by topics, such as fiction, non-fiction, history, or literature, BEL organizes its texts alphabetically by level. This enables members to easily locate materials which are suitable to their own reading ability. When asked for an overview of the rules at BEL, Ms. Oh’s first comment was that of any experienced librarian the world over: “No food or drinks!” Due to limited space, the library also discourages members from bringing their own study materials and books into the library, and borrowing books is capped at a five book maximum for up to 14 days. Materials such as text books, magazines, learning resources, DVDs, and “beginner readers” which are for young children, are available for use in the library only. The library is open daily from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. except for national holidays. Visit them on the web at www.bel.go.kr, but the book search is only in Korean.

HAPSGUIDE

16 BUSANHAPS_october/november 2010

WINTER

walks

Geumjeong Mountain Fortress (금정산) You can walk to the top or take the cable car, and enjoy ancient walls and guard towers lining the ridge of the Dongnae Area. A good “get away from it all” right in the city.

Taejongdae Natural Park (태종대)

Located seaside on Yeongdo it is incredibly scenic with a lush forest, an observatory and an amusement park. Take bus 88 or 101 from Busan Train Station.

Nurimaru/ Dong Baek Island (동백섬)

A short walk from Haeundae Beach (it’s not an island anymore) and you are in the wilderness. Most walk its outer rim, but trails lead up into the forest for some alone time.

Beomeo Temple (범어사) One of Korea’s ‘Great 5 Temples,’ the complex sits in a lush mountain forest. If you want a challenge, walk the ridge all the way from here to the Geumjeong Mountain Fortress.

jingle allthe

WAVE By J. Lipsky

The oldest instrument known to mankind is the voice. A group of seven Americans are making the rounds in Busan scatting, and doo-wopping all the way. Musicians worldwide pour their hearts and souls into their music, in hopes of connecting with their listeners in some way. Some do it with the most basic instrument of sound, a capella. Dynamic Wave is a seven-deep group of Americans that has been doowopping around Busan for the better part of 2010. That doesn’t sound like a long time, but less than a year into the crusade, Dynamic Wave has some rather notable gigs under their belts. They have scatted up the stages of Naru Park’s Global Gathering, of Starface on Dalmaji Hill, and were the musical guests at the Busan Night Live sketch comedy show in November. The all-English radio station 90.5 eFM has featured the Wave live on-air twice as well. Less than a year into the crusade, Dynamic Wave have some rather notable gigs under their belts. They have scatted up the stages of Starface on Dalmaji Hill, Naru Park’s Global Gathering, and were the musical guests at the Busan Night Live sketch comedy show in November. The all-English radio station 90.5 eFM has featured the Wave live on-air twice as well. The band is comprised of four females -- Jillian Watts, Tabitha Hrynick, Elisse Linari, and Rebecca Thompson, who swap between alto and soprano depending on the song. Three males, Chad Sweatt singing tenor, Brian Green and Walvi De Jesus splitting the low end with baritone and bass, round out the group. So why do these seven Americans fancy a cappella? According to Sweatt, “When it’s done right, it’s magical. If you can do it with the human instrument, it’s truly special.” “It’s primal,” adds Hrynick, “because it’s so raw 18 BUSANHAPS_winter 2010/2011

and natural, something people have been able to do for thousands of years.” Watts, the founder of Dynamic Wave feels that, “Music has always been a part of our lives and it’s who we are. It’s why we came together -- it’s us.” Seeking a vocal outlet in Busan, she described the recruiting process as merely “word of mouth at the beginning.” She met Green and De Jesus while salsa dancing, and mustered up the others by asking around and posting comments on Facebook and Busan Meetup. Hrynick cherishes what she has shared, “We’ve come to be really close. We get together, talk, laugh, and have a good ‘dynamic’.” Every person that signed on boasts backgrounds imbued in the arts. Dynamic Wave is a heterogeneous mixture of music majors and minors, experienced church choir and a cappella singers, and multi-instrumentalists. With over twenty tunes in their repertoire, Dynamic Wave still face obstacles with song selection. “It is difficult to find a cappella arrangements here. Sometimes interpretations have only been written for women or need piano accompaniment,” Watts points out. Amazingly, The King’s Singers, the world-renowned a cappella group from the UK, crossed hemispheres for a one-time only spectacle in Ulsan in July. Most of the members of Dynamic Wave made the trek to witness one of the best there is in the business. The King’s Singers arrangement of the Christmas traditional “Gaudete” is presently in their routine. Dynamic Wave is warming up the city this holiday season.

2010/2011 winter_BUSANHAPS 19

SKI guide HAPSGUIDE

20 BUSANHAPS_winter 2010/2011

HAPSGUIDE

In a country with 70% mountains and a long winter, you can expect there to be some good spots to ski. For Busanites, there is but one hitch: get ready for a serious trek to reach them. The peak winter ski season runs from mid-December to mid-February. As with most seasonal attractions in the ROK, expect a lot of company on the slopes. Here are a few places worth a look.

Muju Resort

Yongpyong

Muju features the highest and longest slopes, as well as a Nordic Run going 48 km from Muju to Chonju. Kangsan Travel sells package trips from Busan including chair lift, transport and rentals at a reasonable price. www.mujuresort.com. 063-322-9000

Opened in 1976, Yongpyong is way up in Gangwondo Province, so count on a long bus ride from Busan to get there, or jump from Seoul on over. It’s worth the trip, since it has some great slopes and resort living. www.yongpyong.co.kr, 033-335-5757.

High 1

Bear’s Town

Stop with the stoner jokes. This is the newest ski resort in Korea, and it has all the modern amenities, including those absolute musts, such as a couple of casinos. Catch a train from Seoul’s Chongnyangni Station at 9:50 pm, which arrives at 1:45 am, and ski the next day. www.high.co.kr 033-590-7811

While the chances of seeing a bear are as likely as seeing an ajumma taking to the slopes in the buff, there is some decent skiing to be had here. There are also hot springs and some good local grub. Hotels are near the resort if you don’t wanna pay resort prices. www.bearstown.com. 031-540-500

Phoenix Park Near Yongpyong, Phoenix Park is considered to be one of the more snowboard-friendly resorts. If you are looking to whip it around without teeing off the ski bunnies, this is your spot. www.phoenixpark.co.kr, 1588-2828

Pine Resort If you happen to be up in smog central for a few days, Pine Resort is close to Seoul and offers some fair to midland skiing for the average Joe or Josephine. But if you are going all the way from B-Town, pass. www.pinersorts.com, 031-338-2001

Eden Valley Resort Mount Sinbulsan and her seven runs is home to the only ski resort in our very own Gyeongsung Province. You can get there on a bus in a few hours. Two of the slopes are for beginners, three for intermediate skiers and two for advanced. www.english.yangsan.go.kr

Sungwoo You can take a train to Wonju Station and then hop in a taxi for 20-30 minutes, or hitch a ride on the local shuttle bus that runs during the day to the resort. There are plenty of hotels nearby. Not one of the higher mountains, but the runs are good. www.hdsungwoo.co.kr

2010/2011 winter_BUSANHAPS 21

HAPSFEATURE HAPSFEATURE

Painting by Kelsey L. Smith

22 BUSANHAPS_winter 2010/2011

HAPSFEATURE

QUESTIONS FOR the

marmot By Bobby McGill

Robert Koehler touches the lives of a lot of foreigners in Korea. The Marmot’s Hole, a blog he founded in 2003, is the most popular in the country. This year, it turns eight. We gave him five questions.

against whitey, and that’s just not the case. The media runs its fair share of positive stories about foreigners, too, and the media is usually much too busy frying bigger fish to concentrate on the wayward English teacher. I, too, was an English teacher for a while, and I live in Itaewon, so it’s not like I haven’t seen more than my fair share of questionable and/ or boorish behavior from foreigners. It’s not good to generalize, obviously, but at the same time, I’m not surprised the resentment exists. I guess if I saw a flood of young foreigners earning gainful employment in my country based on only a degree (in anything) and their mother tongue, I might resent it, too, especially if said young foreigners seemed to be having too good a time. You have put together a great book with the Seoul Selection Guide. Can you give us a ‘must see’ spot and some that might surprise people? Must see spot, eh? Well, in Seoul, my two “must sees” would probably be Changdeokgung Palace and Bukchon. The former is the epitome of Korean traditional architecture and must not be missed, while Bukchon is just a great place to get lost in, wandering the alleys while taking in the views. As for spots that might surprise people, I’m not sure if I’d classify the Jeong-dong neighborhood as a “surprise” — it gets its fair share of visitors, too — but I just love its exotic colonial-style architecture, its tree-lined streets and its fascinating history. Two other areas that really get a short shrift, I think, are the Buam-dong and Seongbuk-dong areas north of downtown. Buam-dong feels almost like a mountain resort, and is full of great cafes and galleries. Seongbuk-dong’s got a lot of culture, too, and will be even more worth the visit when they finish restoring the Seongnagwon Garden. The galleries of Pyeongchang-dong, too, are worth checking out — it’s a wonderful hillside neighborhood with great scenery (in addition to great art, of course). The thing to remember about Seoul, though, is that every neighborhood has its history and culture, even if a lot of it is hidden and/or not well promoted. It’s a city that grows on you

merican, Robert Koehler, first set his eye on the peninsula in 1997. Thirteen years later, he still calls Seoul “home,” runs a magazine with the same city’s name, and he looks very comfortable in a Hanbok. What made you start The Marmots Hole? Good question. I got into blogging in 2003, when blogging was really starting to come into its own as a medium. At first, I got into it just to record thoughts — if there’s something blogging is good for, it’s to archive thoughts — and sometimes post a photo or two. Then, I started posting the occasional political rant, or piece of commentary, and these proved somewhat popular so I did them more and more, and the blog sort of took on a life of its own. You follow the Korean language media on a regular basis. What are some similarities and dissimilarities with media back in the States? Hmm... this is a good question, and not one I’m sure I can answer as properly as I should. If I had to list some of the major ones, I’d say that Korean print media is more influential in terms of influencing public opinion than the US print media, that Korean media — and print media in particular — is much more centralized in the hands of a few big nationwide companies, and that the media — and again, this is particularly the case with the print media, and less so with broadcast media — is a great deal more conservative than that of the United States. I would say Korea’s three big conservative dailies are associated with and seen as part of “the establishment” to a far greater degree than, say, the NYT, WaPo or even the WSJ. A lot of bloggers who, like yourself, are fluent in Korean, sometimes gripe about a bias in media coverage of the expat community. What’s your take on that? Has it gotten better? Worse? Judging from some of the commentary Complicated issue. Of course, the media can be rather sensationalist in its coverage of for- I’ve read from English teachers, you’d eigner crime. And do I think certain voices prob- think there was a pogrom going on against ably have more influence with the mainstream whitey, and that’s just not the case. press than they should? Sure. I think with stories about English teachers in particular, some of the criticism comes from motivations other the longer you stay. than a pure desire to improve English language education in It looks like you’ve pretty much laid your roots here in Korea, and that few of these stories deal with the actual root the ROK. Where and what do you see yourself doing in problems of the English learning industry, let alone propose five years? workable solutions. Still, some perspective is required, I think. Hopefully, the same thing I’m doing now. I get paid to visit Judging from some of the commentary I’ve read from cool places, take photos and write about it — I think I’m quite English teachers, you’d think there was a pogrom going on lucky to be employed doing something I love. The Marmot’s Hole is at: www.rjkoehler.com 2010/2011 winter_BUSANHAPS 23

MOVIE

review By Thomas Bellmore

Two of the years biggest Korean films will be making their way to stores and DVD rooms this month. One is the highest grossing film this year, and the other, is undergoing a controversial rating process due to its subject matter. Win-Win. The Man From Nowhere Directed by Lee Jeong-beom Starring Won Bin & Kim Sae-ron Running time 119min Think really hard about the last time you saw a good action flick from Hollywood, a film that delivered on all of your expectations and left you completely satisfied. Could you name even one that wasn’t more than 9 months old? I know I can’t, and while Sylvester Stallone made an admirable attempt at reviving the genre this past summer with The Expendables, his 80’s action-homage to all things testosterone, I can’t really say it left the indelible impression that The Man From Nowhere did. Won Bin earns every bit of the fan-hysteria currently surrounding him with the performance of a mysterious pawn shop owner who attempts to distance himself from his adoring 8-year-old neighbor who is simply looking for a friend. The girl’s mother is engaged in drug trafficking, naturally leading to the most dire of consequences and leaving the little girl as a valuable commodity for the criminal syndicate. Of course, Won Bin’s world-weary character is revealed to be quite skilled in the art of murdering people with Jason Bourne-like reflexes, and is prompted to strike a violent path towards getting the girl back. If this sounds like the formula for more than a few action films that you’ve seen in the past, that’s because it is. Director Lee Jeong-beom utilizes a technical ability and stylistic fluency that gives a soulful savageness to every action sequence. The narrative structure might not be a game-changer, but it hits all of the right dramatic beats, the sympathetic nature of the characters is always the driving force behind the awesome gunfights and hand-to-hand combat. Creating a solid action film almost seems to be a lost art these days, yet the science behind it has always been the simplest of techniques; present characters that we can care about and root for and place them in a situation that is straightforward enough to move the action along from points A through C. Director Lee clearly understands this, and because he isn’t out to reinvent the wheel, he succeeds immensely in crafting an action-thriller that is paced and plotted to near perfection. The Man From Nowhere is the best. action-blockbuster I’ve seen all year. 24 BUSANHAPS_winter 2010/2011

I Saw the Devil Directed by Kim Ji-woon Starring Lee Byung-hun & Choi Min-sik Running time 144min Kim Ji-woon is one of my favorite genre directors. Crafting a masterpiece with 2005’s gangster film, A Bittersweet Life, and delivering divine escapist entertainment with The Good, The Bad, The Weird, Kim Ji-woon has established himself as one of Korea’s most eclectic auteurs. I Saw the Devil is his latest foray into genre, and it has been both lauded and panned by critics and audiences alike. It stands as one of the boldest and most controversial works put forth by any Korean director, and this is in a country which is home to the likes of Park Chanwook and Kim Ki-duk. I Saw the Devil was plagued with issues over its rating, standing to lose a theatrical release, forcing Kim Ji-woon to make drastic edits. The resulting theatrical cut was still considered to be abhorrently violent, appalling Korean audiences who deemed it to be “too cruel”. Consider that what most people saw was the watered-down version, and now imagine what the intended director’s cut must be like. I was pleased to be able to view the un-edited, unrated version during PIFF, and can certainly see why some people would have trouble with this one. I Saw the Devil is a violent revenge tale that stars Oldboy’s Choi Min-sik as a derranged and merciless serial-killer whose methods would be enough to make Jeffrey Dahmer stop and say “Whoa, too much!” Choi Min-sik’s performance is unsettling, to say the least, as he revels in the butchering of a girl who turns out to be the fiance of an NIS agent played by Lee Byung-hun. From this point on, Lee Byung-hun dedicates his performance to the slow mental decay of a man who will lose his soul in his quest for vengeance, playing a dangerous game of catchand-release with the killer in an attempt to make him suffer. The film is in a constant state of escalation, always outdoing its previous act of violence and brutality. This is easily one of the most violent films I have ever seen. Looking past its gory layers, however, reveals a film that actually works as a character study of two men whose fates are intertwined and are set on a self-destructive collision course. The final moments are astonishing, revealing, and tragic. If you’re not squeamish and have no trouble handling violence of this magnitude, you owe it to yourself to see one of the better entries into the serial-killer genre.

ALLIVE

battle of the bands

By Brian Kilrain Photography by Mike Dixon & Ben Weller

They played, they sang, some conquered. And with that, another Allive: Battle of the Bands gave someone else bragging rights for the year. And no one was more surprised they won than themselves.

26 BUSANHAPS_winter 2010/2011

The 2nd Allive: Battle of the Bands has come and gone. Four weeks that broke some hearts, inspired a few fist pumps, and left Busan’s eardrums abuzz. Korea’s second city was blessed with a music showcase that transcended cultures, musical styles and traditional city rivalries. “This event is really about supporting live original music in and around Busan. We wanted to showcase that side of the music scene here,” said one of the organizers, Dave Khimasia. “There is a lot of good talent that people are starting to find out about.” The soft-launch party kicked off at Sharky’s in Haeundae at the beginning of November with an intimate acoustic warmup. The following week saw the official launch at Vinyl, hosted by local soul/reggae jam band and 2009 winners, One Drop East. Some special guests turned up in heat two. Winners of Stomper’s Battle of the Bands in Seoul, Pinnacle and the Antidote, pumped the crowd in Vinyl with an exhibition set of their driving, funk-infused hip hop. The ‘battles’ themselves were organized into three preliminary heats with five bands each, with the winner of each heat continuing on to the finals. Audience votes determined who went on to the grand prize of bragging rights and free studio time to record an album. The variety of talent was worthy: bands from Gimhae, Gyeongju, and Seoul; a high school garage band; funk, punk, pop and rock bands with musicians from all over the world. Competition began November 20th at Vinyl Underground. Newcomers, The Defector Frequency electro-popped away with a win in the first heat. The second and third finalists for the following heats were The South Bay and The Headaches-three were set. To add to the finals, two wildcard acts were added. Hajimama (who lost by one vote to The Headaches in the second heat) and Nacho Pupa, were added to the Final roster. According to the organizers, the wild cards were chosen with the best interests of competition in mind. “It was inevitable that a rockin’ band with the full support of the crowd would get left behind in the voting process,” said Allive’s, Russell McConnell. Throughout the competition and all the taunts on Facebook, the heats remained close. “During the festival, only 20 votes ever separated the top and bottom bands,” said McConnell. “That number speaks volumes when considering that each show was attended by well over 200 people.” In the end, Irish-inspired Korean punk band, Nacho Pupa rode their wild card ticket to the 2010 title. No one was more surprised they won than lead singer and guitarist,Oh Byeong Uk. “We feel great, we didn’t expect it at all. I watched The Defector Frequency and decided we didn’t have a chance so, I went to the soju bar. Suddenly, I got a call that we won!” Whadda ride. See you next year

BATTLE

fans 2010

Photography by Mike Dixon

Busan’s Grand Sale By Leyla Jeffers

As part of its Visit Korea Years 2010-2012 campaign, starting January 10th and running through the end of February 2011, the Visit Korea Committee will launch the “Korea Grand Sale.” The 50 day event is sponsored by the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism, the Visit Korea Committee, the Korea Tourism Organization, as well as Local Governments including Busan, Seoul, Jeju, Daegu, Gyeongbuk, Jeonnam, and Gangwon Province. The Busan Grand Sale is part of the larger nationwide sale which is unique compared to Hong Kong and Singapore’s version of nation promoting, by incorporating all facets of tourism. More than 2,000 department stores, shopping malls, hotels, restaurants, cruises and other tourism attractions nationwide will be participating in the event, in hopes of increasing tourism while offering great discounts — up to 50% — to visitors. An opening ceremony will kick it off, and street events will be held throughout the sale to promote Korean culture and to showcase tourism and shopping around the country. There is also a smart phone application which can be downloaded, making it possible to see the participating companies and discount information, as well as using the mobile coupons. That’s the way to go, if you ask me. The three major department stores, Lotte, Shinsegae and Hyundai, as well as the duty free shops at both Paradise and Lotte will all be offering discounts, as well as major hotel chains offering specials on food, drink and accommodations, including a free nights stay if you book more than three nights at the hotel. To take advantage of the sale, you need to pick up a coupon book or discount card, which are available at Gimhae International Airport, Busan Station, Tourist Information Centers around the city, the Ferry and major hotels. Free shuttle buses will also be operating between Busan and Gyeongju daily, from 8:30 a.m. at the Lotte Hotel in Seomyeon. There is also a bus running from the Paradise Hotel at 9:00 a.m., however, they take Mondays off. You can find more information at www.koreagrandsale. or.kr 28 BUSANHAPS_winter 2010/2011

HAPSGUIDE

Biz Maker Profile

name:leo tonidandel origin: brazil position: lufthansa busan manager

What what was your first position with Lufthansa ? My first job was working as a customer service agent at the international airport in Sao Paulo, Brazil, nineteen years ago. The name Lufthansa has an interesting history, right? In 1926, the most successful companies at that times, Deutsche Aero Llyod and Junkers Luftverkehr were merged into “Deutsche Luft Hansa AG”. Only since 1933, Lufthansa, as one word, has been used for the company name. Actually it is pretty simple - just the combination of 2 words, ‘Luft’ (the German word for “Air”) and ‘Hansa’ (derived from the Hanseatic League, a 13th century economic alliance of European trading cities). Did you know about the Hanseatic League going into your first interview? No, I did not know anything about the company or even the working world. My resume was quite simple and very short. You’ve done well coming from the ground floor. What would you say is a “must do” for the average business school major to help their career? Most importantly practice. It takes some time. Implementing theories without overdoing them and being practical and very creative. Business without creativity will not have any success anywhere on the planet. Reading and understanding business cases can be a good start. Sometimes we also learn how things should not be done. What is an absolute “must not”? Overdoing things. Once anything becomes too much, we can not process any information into practical implementation. Moreover, the fact to work long hours without breaks is also not productive and reduces the ability for innovation and creativity. We live in a very interactive world and the work can be done literally anywhere, anytime, anyhow.

THE dish HAPSGUIDE

tuna burgers

By Jen Sotham

uring my first two years in Busan, improving my ability to prepare the foods that I so missed from home became a priority. Yet, finding the right ingredients or acceptable substitutes was akin to a scavenger hunt. One week Megamart would have chic peas, and then they would disappear from the shelves for months. A small supermarket in Namcheon-dong was known amongst my friends as ‘the sour cream place,’ as it was the only market that regularly carried it. As Busan continues to further cast its international food net, and with the welcome addition of Costco, western ingredients are easier to come by. Of course, many of us who are ‘repeat offenders’ have learned to bring back, or have sent from home, certain spices and treats that are impossible to come by. For me, chipotle powder, sage, dill and powdered ranch dressing mix always take precedence in my suitcase over anything else. Once you have absconded from home with the right ingredients, or managed to scavenge worthy items here, there is then the problem of how to prepare them. For a lot of you living here the kitchen situation in a studio apartment is less than ideal. Here are some suggestions to improve your chances of conquering some great meals. Buy a large toaster oven and a decent Teflon or Pyrex dish. An oven large enough to fit a whole chicken will run you 50-70,000 won. The searchable ‘groceries’ department has spices such as cumin, sage and various chili powders. If you only have a two burner stove, invest in either a freestanding electric burner or a rice cooker. You can find either for about 30,000 won if you look around. Buy yourself a good knife and an apron, if for nothing else, you’ll take yourself more seriously in the kitchen. In sharing my recipes and divulging my ‘ingredient finds’ around the city, I will try not to use items that are hard to come by, and for now, I’ll stick to dishes that can be made without an oven. My recipe for tuna burgers was born by improvising on my mom’s famous Salmon Croquettes. The first time I made them I did, in fact, used canned salmon, which is available at Costco, but fairly expensive. Do with that information what you will. With the exception of the big, fluffy burger buns, which I have only been able to locate at a small bakery (Kim Yeong Pyo Patisserie) in Namcheon-dong, all of the ingredients should be easy to track down all in one spot. 30 BUSANHAPS_winter 2010/2011

Straight Outta Sotham

Ingredients: -2 250g cans of Ottogi Mild Tuna -1 100g cup of Denmark Plain Yogurt (Or sour cream, if you don’t mind the calories and love the great taste) -2 medium sized eggs -15ish Jalepeno rings, finely diced (20 if you dig the heat, 10 if you’re a wuss) -1/2 Red onion, grated or finely diced -2 Tbsp. Dijon mustard -2-3 cups (or handfuls) of Ottogi breadcrumbs (Bang-Ga-Roo) -100 grams (or an empty Denmark Yogurt cup full) of grated cheddar or parmesean cheese (optional) -Cooking oil (I prefer grapeseed oil) -Salt and Pepper to taste The Special Sauce: 50 Grams Denmark Yogurt, 50 grams Mayonnaise, 2 Tbsp. Macrocom Spaghetti Seasoning Mix (available at Lotte Supermarkets), 1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard, 5-6 dashes of Bulliard’s Louisiana Hot Sauce (available at most big marts). A Little Garnish: Lettuce, Tomato, Farman’s Baby Dill pickles The Tools: Large bowl, Frying Pan, Spatula, Paper towels The Magic: Mix all the ingredients in the bowl, except for the breadcrumbs and cooking oil. Use a fork to mix and mash. Add breadcrumbs, a handful at a time, and use your hands to mush it all together. Keep adding breadcrumbs until the consistency of the mix is still moist but able to bond together. Form each patty by grabbing until it is about 3/4 inch thick and as wide as the tuna can. On a medium flame, heat a healthy layer of oil in the frying pan. When it starts to sizzle, CAREFULLY place 3-4 patties in the pan. Flip the patties every 3 minutes, until they are a nice golden brown on both sides. Keep adding oil as you go to avoid burning. When the burgers are done, place them on 2-3 layers of paper towels, and cover with the same to extract excess oil. Layer the buns with sauce, lettuce and thinly sliced tomatoes and pickles. I think you know what to do next… and you’re on your own for the clean-up.

PICKS FOR THEpalette

The Brownie: Bella Luna is a little cafe about a one minute walk from the Jung Dong station in Haeundae towards Dalmaji Hill. Best cakes and pastries in town and great coffee to wash it down.

The Philly: HQ Bar in Kyungsung has a wide variety of good eats, but for our money, the Philly Cheese Steak rules. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be a wimp, get the jalapenos for a little extra zing.

The Traditional: Won Chon restaurant is in PNU, near The Basement. Stepping inside the rustic compound is like stepping back in time. There are even individual rooms for parties up to ten.

The BBQ: In Dongnae, near the subway station walking towards the tunnel. Korean-style BBQ (including LA Galbi) at a great price. Always busy, but lotsa seating.

The Burger: Sharkyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Bar in Haeundae serves up a hefty cheeseburger with a side of garlic mash potatoes that will set you free from whatever binds you.

food Gwangan Felice - Possibly some of the best Italian food in Busan. The chef/ owner has crafted his own style after several years of study. Fuzzy Navel - Mexican food on the beach. Play nice, the fire show takes precedent to your order. Saigon “Pho”- Vietnamese. Across the street from the Starbucks, just off the beach. Solid. Guess Who? - Everything on the menu, reasonable prices, good view. Breeze Burns - Have a hamburger on the beach. It’s a chain, but they do alright with the burger. 10 Tables - Very cool spot to eat and look out at the water. Hamburgers are decent and price ok. East Village Cafe - The cafe is beautifully decorated, has great coffee, hand-baked pastries. Korean Natural Food Restaurant Vegetarian with a good selection of various dishes. Paris Cafe - Two stories right on the beach with a cozy cafe on the first floor and a sprawling open-air wood and brick dining room up top. Great views. 051-751-2814

PNU Fish & Pork - BBQ Shell fish. Cheap. Can sit outside if the weather is right. Exit 3 from subway, go left. It’s on your right. Won Cho - “Real Korea” feeling. Variety of traditional Korean dishes. Same street as Basement. Pho - Above Kebabistan. Outside of the soup, not very traditional, but close. Real Vietnamese coffee. Wazwan - Serious Indian food, cooked by top chefs from a family that cooks around the world. Taco’s Family - Personal favorite. Owner is awesome, good food. Lard-free homemade beans. Marche - Two stops before PNU in Lotte. Place has got a bit of everything. Not cheap, but quality. 32 BUSANHAPS_winter 2010/2011

Haeundae

Kyungsung

Starface - British and Indian food. Good pizzas and Charles makes a mean curry. On Dalmaji. (Check ad)

The Frypan - Great chicken tenders with real chips and gravy. www.thefrypan.co.kr

The Wolfhound - Irish Pub and Restaurant. Very popular for the food. Fish and Chips of course, and breakfast all day on weekends.

Burger and Pasta - From the owners of Thursday Party. Great food, good prices. Good wine.

Geckos Bar - The great taste that became famous in Seoul is now in Busan on the beach at the Pale de CZ building. They brought the chef from Seoul to stay true to the original taste. Namaste - A Indian restaurant right near the beach. Real Indian food. namasterestaurant.co.kr The Table - Mediterranean food in Benecity. Top notch, good desserts, get with that Euro-thing. Hello Kimchi - Odd name for a spot serving tacos, burritos, enchilladas and excellent fajitas. 2 minute walk from Jangsan station. (See ad map) 051-701-5199 Blowfish - Busan’s only surf bar and winner of the Busan Haps 2010 Best Burger Contest. Sit on the deck and look out on the waters of Song Jeong Beach. Fuzzy Naval - Better known as a bar, but they serve up some good tacos. Across from Wolfhound. Taco Senora - Tough to find. Take the street going to the beach from SFUNZ. In a little alley on the left near Save Zone. 051-744-4050 An-Ga - Some of the best Korean BBQ in Busan. From the Jung Dong exit, walk towards Dalmaji Hill. It’s on your right. 051-742-7852 Sharky’s Bar - Arguably one of the best steaks in town at a good price. Also, try the avocado bacon cheesburger with a side of garlic potatos. Taco al Puebla - The owner owned and sold Taco Senora, where he quickly built his reputation several years back. Solid burritos. In the Sea Cloud Hotel on Beach Road. Il Sole - New, classed up Italian restaurant on Dalmaji Hill. Same owners as the spot in Seoul with a wide variety of excellent dishes.

Bae Dae Po - Korean BBQ seafood and meat. Good side dishes. Eu Dae Di - BBQ pork. Across from Thursday Party. Menu is in Korean. HQ Bar - Real American cuisine from Mutt’s kitchen. Weekly specials and great food. Gogiya - Excellent meat restaurant right across from the HQ bar. Great dinner sets and friendly staff. Painted Chair Cafe - Art Gallery/ Cafe with brunch. Great for food and a good cup of coffee afterwards. Evas - Good pub grub out of Evas kitchen and great atmosphere for drinks. Across from Family Mart. Burger Hunter - Fresh made burgers at a reasonable price. Next to Starbucks. Thomas Grill - A runner-up in the Busan Haps 2010 Best Burger contest. They serve up some delicious sloppiness at a good price.

Seomyeon Florians’s - Across the street from TGI Fridays. All you can eat buffet with a wide variety of offerings. Good stuff. Loving Hut - Vegetarian. Take Seomyeon Exit 2, left across from Outback. Cultish, but truly veggie stuff. Dig the always-on infomercial. Buffalo - Chicken chain. Popular with students. No buffalo on the menu as yet. The Pancakes - Great breakfast menu, blueberry pancakes, real French toast. Heaps of syrup. Hamkyung Myeon-Ok - Cold noodle restaurant, excellent during the humid summer months Fuzzy Navel - Hit or miss with service but some pretty good Mexican food. Worth a stop in.

bars Gwangan Enoch Mansion - A hip place with a hip owner that is still largely unrecognized. Very lounge-like atmosphere. Definitely a cool place to sit back relax and chill with a cheap drink and rich sound. They even have free DJ lessons if you wanna add a few lines to your resume. Thursday Party - Two locations to go with many others. The one in Gwangan did so well, they opened another location a few doors down. On the Beach. 051-758-0822/051753-6621 Holloway Road Pub - Located right on Gwangan Beach with a great view of the Gwangan Bridge from the rooftop lounge. Good drink prices and staff. Hollywood Star - Relaxed bar a few blocks off the beach. American nostalgia right down to the Harley in the middle of the bar. A long standing spot with the expat community and a short walk from the shore. Pool/Darts. 051-622-6621 Fuzzy Navel - Similar in style and atmosphere to the one in Haeundae. Fire show good in winter.

PNU Soultrane – One of the area’s oldest and most well-known foreign bars. In the basement beneath Crossroads. Good setup for live music. The Basement – Celebrating its 8th year, The Basement is one of the most popular bars in Busan. Crossroads – Open Mic on Thurs. Great music. 051-515-1181. Right in the heart of the PNU district. A legend. Interplay – Live music, Jazz, Korean Indie and punk. Open Mic Thurs. 011-873-2200 Monks Bar - Good spot for Korean Indie bands. Great K-Punk scene. Pop in on the weekends and you are sure to see a rockin’ band. Red Bottle - Where the old Moe’s once was, now sits the Red Bottle. Still has the cool atmostphere and the new owner seems cool. But alas, no Nick to tug your ear.