Busan Haps Iss 11 by Haps Magazine

HAPS SPRING/2011

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Inside Defector Frequency 16 The Tunes In To Busan

Spring Ahead

12 Outdoors: Go Fish

5 Questions: B.R. Myers

The Dish: The Art of the Spring Roll

Contents Features 12

Outdoors: Go Fish

Tharp On: Danger

KBL’s Rising Star Charles Rhodes

About Town

Dear Korea

Business Maker Profile

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The Defector Frequency Tunes in to Busan

Review

The Dish: The Art of the Spring Roll

Tharp On: Danger

Spring Ahead

5 Questions: B.R. Myers

A Tip of the Hat to Torrents

Movie Review: The Social Network

Regulars

Born in the ROK Shopping in Busan: The Basics

Spotlight On 14

City News

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Events

Earthly Possessions

Short Stuff

Survival Korean: Love in the Time of Korea

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Guides 34

Food & Night Life Guide

Area Maps

Subway Map

Coming out on a bi-monthly basis poses a few problems when making a magazine. First, there is the inevitable question: “Is that every two weeks or every two months?” That query ranks right up there with, “Are you living in North or South Korea?” The second, and more pressing problem, is featuring content that remains relevant throughout the issue’s two-month shelf life. This issue has a “spring” theme to it, even though we don’t expect to see cherry blossoms and truly warm weather for another few weeks. So, you can thank our publishing cycle and the procrastination of Mother Nature in Northeast Asia for us bringing you the first flowers of spring this year. Enjoy.

Jen Sotham Chris Tharp Christy Swain Thomas Bellmore Jeff Liebsch Gus Swanda Bobby McGill J. Lipsky Roy Early Nick Holmberg Tory Mock Dustin Heffner

Photography Mike Dixon

Jennifer Early Leyla Jeffers Bmc R. Mac

Illustration | Kelsey L. Smith

Submissions:

busanhaps@gmail.com

Advertising:

mikey.busanhaps@gmail.com petra.busanhaps@gmail.com (한국어)

Busan Haps SPRING 2011 Issue 11 Business Registration Number: 00001 First Publication Date: Sept, 2, 2009 Address: Ocean Tower #1726, 760-3, Woo 1 Dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan, Republic of Korea 612-822

www.busanhaps.com Subscriptions: soo.busanhaps@gmail.com One Year/6 Issues 10,000 KRW 30% Donated to Women’s Shelters Disclaimer: The opinions in the magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher. Questions or comments: busanhaps@gmail.com ©2011 Busan Haps Magazine 2010 october/november_BUSANHAPS 23

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Contributors John Bocskay: John Bocskay is a native of Westchester County, New York, and has lived in Korea since the last year of the Rabbit. He can use chopsticks, eat kimchi, and is fine, thank you, and you? He also plays a mean guitar and sings fluently in English. Chris Tharp: Chris Tharp hails from Washington State and has lived in Busan over six years. When not banging on a guitar or screaming into a microphone, he likes to write. If you buy him a drink, he’ll tell you all about the times he met Kurt Cobain, but you probably already know the story. Jen Sotham: Jen Sothham has been with Haps since issue one. She hails from New York and has lived in Busan since 2006. Her writing has appeared in magazines, guidebooks and anthologies, including Travelers’ Tales: Best Women’s Travel Writing 2008. Gus: Born in South Bend, Indiana, Gus Swanda first came to Korea in 1996, and promptly left due to a lack of a good cheeseburger. He returned in 2001, and when not writing and performing, he divides his time teaching in the International Relations and English Departments at Pusan University of Foreign Studies. Thomas Bellmore: When he’s not busy parting the Red Sea, Thomas Bellmore is usually at home watching a movie, reading and writing on the Internet, or making a desperate attempt at being productive. He hails from Ontario, Canada, but has been living in Busan for the past four years with his super intelligent wife, Katarina. J. Lipsky: J. Lipsky worked at various college, community, and commercial radio stations for almost 10 years back in the States. In the summer of 2009, he moved to Korea where he began writing about music for Busan Haps and eating a lot of Kimbap Chungook. And yes, his hair is naturally curly. 06 BUSANHAPS_spring 2011

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Events Luchino Visconti Retrospective at Cinematheque Through February 27th The Italian director is best known for his films The Leopard (1963) and Death in Venice (1971). cinema.piff.org (Schedule in English only)

Korean Traditional Music and Dance Every Saturday The National Center for Korean Traditional Performing Arts in Busan features a performance of Korean Music and Dance every Saturday at 4 p.m. at the National Center for Korean Traditional Performing Arts in Busan. www.ncktpab.go.kr (Only in Korean) 051-811-0040

Art and Poetry Through March 13 Gana Art Gallery in Haeundae features the work of several Korean artists in a marriage of art and poetry. english.ganaart.com 051-744-2020

The International Fishing Show March 11-13 Want to brush up on your casting techniques or just find out some of the latest innovations of man against fish? www.kofish.co.kr

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HAPS PRODUCTS

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Earthly Possessions Sony Cyber-Shot DSC-W380 The Cyber-shot DSC-W380 rules the roost of Sony’s practical-yet-stylish W-series compactcamera line. It’s got a 5x super-wide-angle zoom, 14.1-megapixel sensor and Sony’s clever ‘sweep panorama’ mode. The W380 can shoot 720p highdefinition movies too, and at around 300,000 KRW, it’s quite affordable considering all the features and the sturdy reliability of Sony.

YoYo Yb-5025 Bidet

LUSH Each Peach Massage Bar 2002’s National Lampoon’s Van Wilder captured pretty well what a ridiculous mess massage oil can be, but LUSH cosmetics has found a solution with their line of massage bars. To the naked eye, they look like plain bars of soap. But with the help of a little body heat, the mango, avocado, cocoa and shea butters soften into an emollient that will make any massage go a little bit smoother. You can pick one up at the Lush outlet in the Nampo-dong Lotte.

When you bid farewell to those consumed earthly possessions, why not do your bid-ness right with a bidet? Whatever it is that might stress you during your day will all melt away with a heated seat, warm water jet and a good fanny fan-dry. You can order a souped-up bidet like the YB-5025 for about 300,000 KRW online. Generally, one size fits all, but you can pick one up at most electronic stores or megastores if you like to be hands on with your purchases.

A Mini Oven Raise your hand if you don’t have an oven. Raise your other hand if you don’t have a tub. Raise your hand if your tired of raising your hand and want this to get to the point. Well, you’re on your own with the tub, but the joys of baking (and at times, burning) can be yours again while living here in your home away from home. A nice double-decker model will run you about 50,000 KRW.

A Car A great majority of people who come to live and work in Korea rarely see much of the country beyond what is close to the subway line. A used car is just the thing to remedy that. You can pick up anything from a $500 beater to a $4000 gem that will get you out and about town, or on a weekend road trip with friends. And when your tenure ends, you’ll have no problem selling it for nearly what you paid – provided you limit the trashing. 08 BUSANHAPS_spring 2011

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HAPS TECH

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A Tip of the Hat to Torrents By Bobby McGill Someday in the future, when your children want your credit card number to buy music, movies or software on the Internet, you can remind them of the time when it “was all free!” Not that they will actually hear what you are saying, as they multi-task Facebook’s holographic interface while having Twitter fed to them intravenously, but at least you will have something to lord over them from the good ol’ days. In fact, they probably won’t ask for the credit card number, they will instead text you from fingertip implants. I digress. Truth be told, pirating off the Internet might very well be an endangered species headed the way of the Walkman. The battle between the two camps, which can roughly be narrowed down to “producers” and “thieves” rages on; with one side gaining an edge just as the other finds another. The fine folks out there posting torrents and the sites that “host” them are a scrappy lot by sheer number. On the flip side, you have industry and government. Interestingly, the war on copyright infringement is the consummate converse of the drug war. Those that post pirated materials on the net, as well as those that download them, are not to be found on street corners for an easy police pick-up or an Adobe drive-by. Corporate lawyers long ago accepted the error in

judgement of the downloader and took aim at the tracking sites that supply them. The more notable examples include the closing of Supernova, Torrentspy, and Mininova. But small victories they were in the face of gray laws and an enemy combatant with more heads than the Hydra. In 2008, The Pirate Bay torrent site, formed by a Swedish group in 2003, had its servers in Sweden raided by Swedish police on allegations by the MPAA of copyright infringement. Yet, the tracker was up and running again three days later on a different server in a different country. It still serves up the goods today. Rock on. And yet, if movies have taught us anything, it is that our future cyberwebworld might not hold such plenty. Since the music industry alone will lose an estimated $200 billion over the next five years, they will continue to merge and eventually decide its worth throwing a couple billion on some unhackable security measures — so live it up while you can. Forget about the stigma: you’re not alone if you pilf the occasional tune or flick. Wide-ranging sources that track Internet traffic estimate bittorrents account for roughly 27% to 55% of total bandwidth, depending on geographic location. Just don’t mention my name when the police robots bust your door down.

Good Torrent Sites 3.

Torrent Funk It has 2 million verified torrents, a rating system and a comment section with loads of obnoxious netizens to shake your head at. (torrentfunk.com)

2. The Pirate Bay They’ve weathered legal attacks on the Swedish high seas of copyright infringement laws and they still remain standing. (thepiratebay.org)

3. Demonoid Demonoid is the benchmark private torrent site that most P2P communities compare themselves to. Membership is required and leechers quickly cut off. (demonoid.com) BUSANHAPS.com

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HAPS NEWS

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Short Stuff Busan - Taipei Route Launched Beginning in late January, Air Busan launched non-stop service flights to Taipei, Taiwan. The daily flights leave Kimhae Airport at 11:20 a.m., arriving in Taipei at 12:40 p.m local time. The return flight leaves Taipei at 2 p.m. and arrives in Busan at 5:10 p.m. Air Busan has a Smart 7 Special Web Fare, with prices as low as 149,000 KRW, though there are only 10 promotional tickets for each flight. They regularly have Internet discounts on domestic and international travel, so if you are looking for a cheap flight, you can check out their website for more details. (en.airbusan.com)

Al Jazeera to open Seoul Bureau

Templestay Website Goes Multilingual

With the increasing interest in Korean news-related issues worldwide, Al Jazeeraâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s English media, known appropriately as, Al Jazeera English, will open a bureau in Seoul in the first half of 2011. The Doha, Qatar-based network has more than 3,000 staff members worldwide, including more than 400 journalists from over sixty countries. Al Jazeera English broadcasts news and current affairs 24 hours a day, 7 days a week with 12 hours broadcast from Doha Headquarters, and four hours from centers in Kuala Lumpur, London and Washington, DC.(english.aljazeera.net)

The Jogye Order of Korean Buddhism has opened an international website providing information in English, Chinese, Japanese, French and Spanish. The new and improved website lets you customize your temple stay experience to suit your needs, as well as providing locations, prices and history of the temple. Templestay is a unique cultural program which lets you experience the life of Buddhist practitioners at traditional temples which preserve the 1700-year-old history of Korean Buddhism. If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re looking to get away from it all for a couple days in a peaceful environment, why not give it a shot? (eng.templestay.com)

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HAPS NEWS

Pyeongchang’s 2018 Winter Bid Looking Good Despite Ruling The race for the 2018 Winter Olympics is on, and Pyeongchang is hoping to win in their third attempt at hosting the games. This despite a recent Korean Supreme Court ruling that upheld corruption charges against the governor of Gangwon Province and deputy chairman of the bid committee. “As a matter of national priority, the bid campaign is a team effort that is not dependant on one or two individuals, and we are all working together systematically,” the bid committee said in a statement. After narrowly losing the 2010 and 2014 games, Pyeongchang is making its third consecutive bid using their new secret weapon: 2010 Vancouver Gold Medallist Kim Yu-na. Kim will travel to Durban, South Africa along with the bidding committee for the vote, which will be the first order of business at the 123rd IOC Session on July 6, 2011. Pyeongchang, along with Munich, Germany and Annecy, France are the contenders vying to host the 23rd installment of the Winter Games.

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HAPS OUTDOORS

Go Fish

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By Nick Holmberg

If you are looking for an extraordinary experience far from the urban urgency of Busan, spend a weekend with friends in the fishing villages of Geoje and Tong-Yeong. Despite the fact that over a third of South Korea’s entire fishing industry is based in Busan, most of its fishing village charm has been lost among the millions of people and the shadows of massive container ships. If you want a little better idea about the culture and heritage that is unique to a small Korean fishing village, there is a wonderful area just under three hours southwest of the city. I recently joined Professor Nah Yoon-Joong of Tong-Myeong University’s Travel and Tourism Department for a day-long expedition in the Tong-Yeong and Geoje-do areas to check out a page from Korea’s past. Our first stop was Gye-do, an island northwest of Geoje City. Professor Nah says this place is special not only because it is a “facility officially appointed by the government,” but also because “it’s a great place for families and groups to experience a genuine part of Korean culture.” We were treated to a short boat tour with vast views of the mainland’s coastal mountain range around us. We could also see thousands of white buoys, marking the large square formations of shellfish farms—a testament to how rich in seafood these waters are. After pulling an octopus out of the water, our guide returned us to Gye-do’s recreational fishing spot. It is here that you can get everything needed for a fishing expedition of your own. For reasonable prices, you can rent everything from fishing tackle and traditional Korean fishing rowboats, to large stationary houseboats equipped with running water and a full kitchen. A houseboat with an eight-person capacity will run you 150,000 KRW a night in the off-season, and 200,000 KRW during summer. Larger parties can also be accommodated, but you should reserve far in advance, as this is a popular Korean getaway. On our trip, we partook in steamed hong-hap (mussels), hae-mul pah-jan (savory pancake with green onions and seafood) and the very same octopus that our guide had pulled from the water only thirty minutes before. This is one of the essential beauties of an outing like this: pulling your next meal right out of the water, cleaning and eating it as fresh as it can be. Our second stop was Gunghang, a small village about six miles southwest of Tong-Yeong. This village provided similar amenities as Gye-do, without as many of the houseboats, however, camping is allowed on the small island owned by this village. Since it was low tide on this small island, we dug with the village elder for our own short-neck clams. Since I brought my own cooler, I was able to enjoy homemade dwen-jang-jjigae that night when I got home. Professor Nah, senior project manager for the City and Fishing Village Relations Project, says that there are thousands of fishing villages in Gyeongsangnam Province, but only certain ones provide these kinds of amenities. So, do your homework before you travel. A vast network of information and tour packages for Gyeongsangnam Province fishing villages can be found at www.seantour.org. Unfortunately, these sites are not currently in English, so you may need a Korean friend to help you. 12 BUSANHAPS_spring 2011

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HAPS CITY PAGE

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Subway Line 4 to Open By Jeff Liebsch With the fourth line set to open in March, the Busan Transportation Corporation continues to achieve their goal of providing a unique space to rest, enjoy art or literature, while at the same time putting safety, convenience, economical efficiency, tourism, culture and customer service first. “With the opening of Busan Subway Line 4, Busan has drawn the curtains on the country’s first age of the light-rail vehicle. As always, we will provide safety and convenience to our passengers after we finish test runs and learn to run the trains perfectly,” said Mr. Dong-whan Kim, the press officer of Busan Transportation Corporation. The fourth line runs from Minam, near Dong-nae to An Pyong Village in Kijang. The line will consist of 14 stations - 8 underground, 1 on-ground, and 5 above-ground. Since the opening of line one in 1985 with a total of 17 stations, the Busan Metro has now expanded to 99 stations. By the time all of the BTC’s plans are finished in 2016, there will be 132 stations to make t ransportation around the city that much easier. In other transportation news around the city, the Busan-Kimhae Light Rail Transit project, which has been under construction for the past five years, will also be completed this April. The joint venture between POSCO and Hyundai Rotem will be fully automated and travel a distance of 23.92 km. The train will run at a speed of approximately 40 km/hr and have the capability to carry 30,000 passengers per hour. There are 21 stops along the line, which will run from Sasang to Samgae-dong in Kimhae, including Kimhae International Airport.

One-stop Service For Foreigners To Open Have you ever wondered how to start your own business? How your taxes are affected in Korea? Or just want to have some free Korean lessons? The Busan Foundation for International Activities (BFIA) is ready to help you answer these and any other questions you may have. From the middle of March, the Busan Global Lounge will open to provide support for foreigners. The lounge will be located on the 13th floor of the National Pension Service (NPS) Building, in Yeonje-gu, across from City Hall. Similar to the Seoul Global Center, they will have a plethora of information to provide you with whatever help you may need. The BFIA is currently located on the first floor of the City Hall Building. With the success of the Seoul Global Center, which recently celebrated its third anniversary, a center for comprehensive services for expats in Busan to help deal with everyday inconveniences will be greatly welcomed. It will offer expert services to foreigners, advising them on everything from business activities, to having a comfortable living experience, as well as helping them to learn and enjoy the local culture. More than 336,000 foreigners in Seoul have used the service over the past three years, and as Busan grows and becomes more international, the need for such services and help are necessary to make life just a little more easier. “Busan needs a dedicated center commensurate with the increase in the number of resident foreigners. Busan also needs a place for interchange between Busan’s Korean and nonKorean citizens to take place, to further the internationalization of local citizens,” said Chief Coordinator Sean Hong. Other services such as free language classes, information on taxes, jobs, cultural activities, immigration and medical tips are also available, including a one-stop service for mobile phone registration, and issuing credit cards. Additionally, a call center will also be available in seven languages: Korean, English, Chinese, Vietnamese, Indonesian, Russian and Uzbek. The BFIA carries out a variety of activities to globalize the city by promoting international exchanges, and supporting Busan’s 50,000 foreign residents. Business hours: Mon-Fri. 9 a.m.- 8:30 p.m / Sat. 9 a.m. - 6:30 p.m. Call Center : Mon-Sat. 9:30 a.m - 6:30 p.m. For more information: www.bfia.or.kr 14 BUSANHAPS_spring 2011

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KBL’s Rising Star Charles Rhodes By Dustin Heffner The state of Mississippi might not be on the tip of most Busan basketball fans tongues, but the Magnolia State natives Charles Rhodes and Jasper Johnson might be the catalysts that ignite a championship BOOM for the KT Sonic Boom. The team has been atop the Korean Basketball League (KBL) standings for most of the year, and they look poised to make a long playoff run. According to Rhodes, what the Mississippi dynamite duo brings to the court every night is unmatched in Korea. “Jasper and I are a combo,” said Rhodes. “He’s a shooting forward and I’m just a dunk man, rebounder and defender. I think that is what makes us work out the best.” With nicknames like “Beast”, “Charles in Charge”, and “Chucky Rhadical,” it is no surprise that first-year player Charles Rhodes has forced his will, tenacious defense and high-octane style on the rest of the KBL all season. Rhodes, 25, is enjoying a fantastic rookie year, earning invitations to the All-Star game and the slam-dunk contest during the KBL’s All-Star event. “I just bring energy,” Rhodes said about his role on the Sonic Boom. However, in 2008, his career was stalled. His tank was full, but his wheels were flat. The Mississippi State University Bulldog standout underwent ankle surgery while playing in Latvia. The nagging ankle problems had hindered Rhodes while he was a Bulldog, and played an integral role, according to him, in his eventual dismissal from the National Basketball Association’s Dallas Mavericks. Once in Latvia, Rhodes said he could not ignore the pain any longer and opted for surgery. The surgery cost him two years, and the high-flying center began the season struggling to regain his form and adapt to a new team, new league and new culture. “With me being out for two years, I had to get the mental part of the game back and try to learn a new system,” he said. “It was a little rough on me, but I got it now.” The transition was made easier due to seeing a familiar face everyday in practice. Rhodes said Johnson, a friend from his Mississippi days, was instrumental in him deciding to join the Sonic Boom and that the two imports have meshed well with their Korean counterparts leading to one obvious conclusion. “We are on the right page right now; we just have to keep doing what we are doing. Just play KT basketball and we are going to be victorious in the end.” BUSANHAPS.com

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HAPS MUSIC

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The Defector Frequency Tunes in to Busan By J. Lipsky Photography Mike Dixon

After an impressive showing at Battle of the Bands and a ton of gigs around town, The Defector Frequency is building a strong fan base with their fast-paced, punk-influenced pop music.

For those of us who call South Korea home, life above the 38th parallel holds a certain amount of fascination. But for The Defector Frequency, a band named after daring North Korean runaways, the subject has become an inspiration. “I’m very interested in North Korea. I’ve read a lot about it. I’ve been there. Also, to defect and go against the grain is a punk ethic,” said songwriter/guitarist John Rennie, who hails from England. Although they’re newcomers to Busan’s music culture, The Defector Frequency’s fan base is exploding due to a far-out hybrid of synthpop and punk vocals. Three parts expat and one part Korean, the band is a project that’s been in the works since early 2010. Last March, Rennie was doing language exchange at Lzone Cafe. Drummer Jun-Hyeong Ahn propositioned him in the men’s bathroom. Hold on, it’s not what you think. Of course, Rennie was confused and didn’t know exactly where the proposition would lead. After some East-meets-West miscommunication, Ahn finally busted out his smart phone and played Rennie a video proving his finesse on a drum kit. Rennie, who is of that mind that, “Your band’s only as good as your drummer,” was sold after that public restroom bromance, and the two formed a musical alliance from that point on. 16 BUSANHAPS_spring 2011

Rennie met Dalziel in a more conventional way. They’d become loosely acquainted over a few intoxicated conversations, but last summer, Rennie witnessed Dalziel’s performance at an open-mic night. Rennie recalls, “I saw Stu’s dancey stuff live, and that’s exactly what I wanted to do.” Until this point, Rennie and Ahn had been engineering a more-or-less loose jam sound. With the addition of Dalziel, The Defector Frequency began to move in the direction of their current sound. All that was left to do now was find a bass player. Poko Lambro’s prettier half, Violet Lea, filled in last year until a permanent member could be found. Dalziel mentions that, “She’s on our demo, and she spent two months in the band. She’s a mate of ours and even helped us get on the air at Busan eFM.” According to Rennie, “Even though she’s not in the band anymore, she’s the honorary fifth member.” Kind of like Pete Best – without the honor. Lea’s replacement is the freshest face to The Frequency – Barry McGhee. “He’s the only Scottish bass player in Busan,” chuckles Rennie. Now that they have cemented the line-up, their compositions are perpetually under the microscope. “We start with a foundation and play around that, and see what works and what doesn’t. Everything is scrutinized,” said Rennie. Dalziel agrees. “We sit down and think songs out. It’s not jamming. We know how many bars and notes there will be. It’s precisely worked out – we know what everyone is doing.” Many electronic-infused ensembles employ prefabricated sounds into their mix, but Dalziel takes pride in eschewing the trend. “We’ve gone a different route than playing pre-programmed music. It’s all done totally live. We really are a live band.” In the studio and on the stage, The Defector Frequency are workhorses. In December, they championed heat one of Allive’s Battle

“It felt like a moshpit,” Dalziel says. “It was mental, people were falling onto the stage.”

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of the Bands and cruised into the finals. In the last two weeks of January alone, they headlined Kyungsung’s Kino Eye, hit the road with the mighty One Drop East for a stop in Changwon, and collaborated with seven other Korean acts for Super Color Super and Allive’s introductory Round Robin series in PNU. Hands down, their fondest memories are of the hysteria at The Battle of the Bands grand finale. “It felt like a moshpit,” Dalziel says. “It was mental, people were falling onto the stage.” The Defector Frequency didn’t take the top prize that night, but they walked away with a pretty good parting gift — some professional recording time with hot shot recording engineer Mike Laveck. Reflecting on the Battle of the Bands and other recent successes, Dalziel can easily put their hard work and effort into perspective. “Seeing people in the crowd dance to what you’ve written is a creative validation; it makes you proud. I live for this.” Go to myspace.com/thedefectorfrequency to sample their tunes, and add them on Facebook.

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HAPS PEOPLE

About Town

18 BUSANHAPS_spring 2011

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Photography By Mike Dixon

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HAPS FEATURE

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Spring Ahead! by John Bockskay If you’re as tired of this frigid winter as I am, and you were unable to join the snowbirds in Bangkok, Bali or Boracay for a little reprieve, you’re probably really looking forward to spring. Spring is a brilliant time of year in Korea. In Busan, spring arrives right on time – we often enjoy our first jacketless days in March – but it usually checks out early, as the hot summer weather may encroach well into June, or even May. Though spring often gets the squeeze here on the southern end of the peninsula, it is distinct enough from both winter and summer to merit its rightful place as one of Korea’s fabled four seasons. In spring, Busan transforms. The local population sheds the surgical masks they wear in winter to prevent the spread of cold and flu…and then immediately don them again to protect against pollen and the dreaded yellow dust from China; young women lose their leg-warmers and go right on wearing miniskirts as they did all winter, bless their hearts; mountain trails swell with colorfully-attired walkers, hikers, hawkers and bikers. If you’re like me, you find yourself in a more generous, affable mood. Your walking pace slows. You swear less. You sit and sip coffee outdoors and watch the big city loudly clear its throat while groaning and lurching to irrepressible life. The February-March calendar is marked with variety of holidays and festivals to warm your winter bones. Seollal, otherwise known as Lunar New Year, fell on February 2-4 (Wednesday – Friday) this year, which made it a “perfect Seollal” because it gave everyone a five-day weekend. (Conversely, a Seollal that falls on a Friday-Saturday-Sunday is known locally as “a horrible, horrible tragedy”.) On Seollal, children bow to their elders and receive tidy little wads of cash, which is the number one reason why 20 BUSANHAPS_spring 2011

Seollal handily trounces Christmas and Chuseok in the informal “What’s your favorite holiday?” polls in English classrooms around the country. Families get together and enjoy traditional foods like rice cakes and ddeok guk (soup made from thinly-sliced rice cakes). Many folks play traditional Korean games like yutnori, where players cast four split wooden dowels to determine the advance of tokens around a board; Neoltigi, which is a kind of jumping seesaw that was once popular among women, but has tragically been rendered obsolete by the miniskirt; and Super Mario Brothers, in which players attempt to navigate a crude, but likable Italian caricature through a maze of magic mushrooms, murderous tortoises and coin-dispensing bricks in order to rescue a severely pixilated princess. In early March, it seems as if every city of any size in Korea has some sort of flower-related festival, from the canola blossom festivals of Cheju, to the cornus fruit blossom festival of Icheon, to the too-famous-for-its-own-good Naval Port Festival of nearby Jinhae, which features what may well be the largest concentration of cherry blossoms in the known universe. Many of Busan’s neighborhoods and mountains have also been abundantly planted with cherry blossoms. One of my favorite places to enjoy them is by Samick Beach Apartments at the end of Gwangan-li Beach, where for one short week of the year, the narrow residential streets are vaulted by an unbroken canopy of pale pink blossoms. Many university campuses in Busan are also ablaze with cherry blossoms in late March, and likewise offer a relatively peaceful place to admire their fleeting glory. Leave Jinhae to the multitudes; lace up your walking shoes and stroll unmolested through one of Busan’s many unsung local marvels. BUSANHAPS.com

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HAPS FEATURE

In spring, Busan transforms. The local population sheds the surgical masks they wear in winter to prevent the spread of cold and flu…and then immediately don them again to protect against pollen and the dreaded yellow dust from China;

Korea has some other unique springtime experiences in store for the more intrepid. Seoul has a full marathon tentatively scheduled for March 20th. Last year’s event was described on the official Korea Tourism website as a “unique opportunity of running a full-course marathon through the streets of Seoul in safe conditions”, and it attracted over 30,000 participants, who were drawn by both the challenge of a marathon, as well as the surreal spectacle of several hours of “safe conditions” on the streets of Seoul. March 17th is St. Patrick’s Day, and while it is not a Korean holiday, it is an increasingly popular fixture on the Korean social calendar for expatriates of many nations, and Koreans who are looking for some good craic. The Irish Association of Korea has been hosting a St. Patrick’s Day festival in Seoul for ten years and counting. Past IAK festivals have included a parade, concerts, cultural performances, contests, games, and, um, I’m forgetting something - what was it? – ah yes: drinking frightful quantities of whiskey, beer and Bailey’s. Several of Busan’s pubs and bars will be getting their green on as well with drink specials, musical performances, and assorted shenanigans. Check busanhaps.com for current information as the date approaches. Lastly, as a baseball fan, one of the first words that pops into my head when I hear the word “spring” is “training”. In March, the Lotte Giants will be shaking off the rust to prepare for another season beginning in early April. Win or lose, it’s hard to beat the atmosphere at Sajik Stadium when the Giants are in town. The crack of the bat, the shwack of beer cans opening, and 20,000 voices belting out the moving, minor-key strains of Busan Galmaegi; these are the sounds of spring in Busan. Spring Ahead! BUSANHAPS.com

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HAPS FEATURE

5 Questions: B.R. Myers Illustration by Kelsey L. Smith

B.R. Myers has become the go-to-guy for all things North Korea. Be it the New York Times, The Guardian or CNN, he is the authoritative voice on life north of the 38th parallel. And all of this while living and working in Busan as a professor at Dongseo University.

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HAPS

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You’ve written three books. The first, a scholarly look at North Korean literature in your book, Han Sorya, the most recent, the much read and highly acclaimed The Cleanest Race and then there’s that one in the middle, The Reader’s Manifesto — a scathing critique of literary fiction. Is there a side of you that likes to pick a fight? If you’re just going to agree with everyone, there’s little point publishing at all, is there? I’m amazed, for example, how many North Korea books are on the market that all say the same things. Disagreement is the basis of all meaningful discussion. And if you feel the conventional wisdom is seriously wrong about something, you have no choice but to write in rather a forceful and polemic style. Sometimes in my literary criticism I just want to praise a writer, but then I will write about someone like Henry de Montherlant who is not so well-known.

You’ve enjoyed great success in the publishing world. Any tips for those looking to get their stuff out there? Send it all to you? It’s weird that you ask that, because some people here do send me manuscripts or ask me to recommend them to my agent. It’s very awkward. Some people think that because I write for the Atlantic, I can help others get a piece into the magazine. It doesn’t work that way, unfortunately. Everyone has to go through the same submission process, which can be horrible. If I had to give advice to budding writers here, whether fiction or non-fiction writers, it would be: Don’t think that expatriate life in Korea is intrinsically an interesting subject.

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Most foreigners might not realize it, but there is somewhat of a West-Busan, East-Busan divide here amongst the citizenry. Could you talk about that and efforts to bridge it? It’s a much bigger divide than that between the northern and southern parts of Seoul. In Busan, if you go a little further west than Seomyeon, you might as well be in another city. It’s pretty bleak too, let’s not kid ourselves. I don’t understand why Busan pumps so much development money into Haeundae, and does so little for the west. I always harped on the subject while I was hosting “Let’s Talk Busan” on Busan eFM, and city or tourism officials would agree with me. But nothing changes. The “Let’s Talk Busan” studio itself has just been relocated from Sasang to Haeundae!

We are obliged to get in some questions on Korea — let’s stick with the South. With U.S. influence in this region receding and an alliance with Japan seemingly eons away, where is a mid-level power like South Korea to turn for an ally in the face of China’s rise? What moves are they making in that direction? I think South Koreans are increasingly aware that they cannot rely completely on the US for their security. Those few weeks after the Yeonpyeong Island attack were a turning point in this regard: the U.S. government was wringing its hands, warning the South Koreans that live fire exercises might lead to war, and many people here started to wonder if their ally can be fully counted on. But on the other hand, I don’t see the South Koreans trusting any other power in the region to help them. Certainly not China; the Sinophilia that was so fashionable here in the mid-2000s has disappeared. Washington will always be Seoul’s main partner. I just think we will see more efforts by the South Koreans to bolster their own defenses.

If you were a betting man, when do you foresee reunification? And which side will have the best food? I’m a vegan, so North Korean cuisine is much better for me; they don’t put dead animals in everything like they do down here. It’s not nearly as salty either! The best Korean food I ever ate was in Kaesong in 2008. As for reunification, I see it in the next five years. The “military first” regime in Pyongyang has to keep engaging in displays of military might in order to justify itself, and soon it’s bound to go too far. 2011 spring_BUSANHAPS 23

HAPS FEATURE

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Born in the ROK by Roy Early

One fine Sunday afternoon a few years back, when my daughter, Anna, was a few months old, I found myself wandering through the electronics department at Emart. There was a ten-year-old girl singing for a small crowd and I stopped for a minute to listen. Difficult to ignore, she was singing along in nearly perfect tune with the greatest singer-songwriter of the 1980’s, Kenny Rogers. It was a good opportunity to relax during the exhausting task of grocery shopping with a young child in tow. I stood there listening to that elementary girl singing in perfect harmony with the bearded one, occasionally brushing away the hand of a curious ajumma eager to touch the milky white skin of my child. The young singer made me think more deeply about being a father in Korea, and what lay ahead. Koreans’ karaoke skills often amaze me, but this girl really stirred some deep thinking about fatherhood. By the third time the girl belted out the chorus “...daytime friends and nighttime lovers, hoping no one else discovers...”, I thought out loud how I would ever explain those lyrics to my daughter when she reached a similar age. Then I made motions to another hovering ajumma, indicating that, yes, my daughter’s eyes are closed and she is indeed sleeping. She mistook my pantomime to mean that she should touch her leg instead of her cheek. Before my wife, who hails from England, gave birth to our daughter, we knew that foreign babies were an uncommon sight in Busan. In fact, Korea has one of the lowest birth rates in the world, so babies in general are not too common in Busan at all. How things change. According to the World Bank, the birth rate in Korea in 1971 was 4.54. By 1988, when Seoul hosted the Olympics, the birthrate had declined to 1.54 and has steadily gone down to 1.2 – the world’s lowest. The way I figure, with so few babies to go around, it gives the grandmothers and grandfathers, or halmonies and halabogies, plenty of pent-up attention to lavish on my daughter. From the day she was born, she received no less than seven touches from strangers during even the shortest of subway journeys. While standing on the train with her strapped into one of those daddy-hippie backpack on the front carriers (called Ergo, for those in the market-know) halmonies would literally come to me and stick their hand right in her face and touch her cheek. Should I attempt to discourage an elderly woman, she would

It made perfect sense then, that once my daughter started speaking a bit, that her favorite word while riding the subway was ‘no.’

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slyly move to another portion of skin, however minimal, she found exposed. My cries of ‘aneyo’ or ‘hajima’ pretty much went ignored. Never mind dad – I could almost hear them think, “Stupid man, does he know that I am a grandmother?” From my own experience, and the shared experience of other foreigners with children in Busan, I still believe that in ajumma circles, bragging at the spa about touching a foreign baby trumps any other story shared in the scrubbing circle. It made perfect sense then, that once my daughter started speaking a bit, that her favorite word while riding the subway was ‘no.’ When that failed to stop the touching, she switched to uttering her desires in Korean. Surprisingly, that worked quite well, until it became cute with those that saw her regularly. Just about the time that I decided to start touching the ajumma’s face every time one touched my daughter, a new phenomenon began — people started giving my daughter candy and chocolate. Into her tiny little hand they placed perfectly wrapped, perfectly sweet, perfect choking-sized candy, even though at that point she only had one tooth. What business they thought she might conduct with candy, I do not know. At the end of a round trip from Guseo-dong to Haeundae, my wife and I might hold a dozen pieces of candy between us. To be fair, people did/do not always try to touch or give her candy. Koreans can be incredibly kind and loving. Whether it be by offering seats on a train, telling her she is beautiful, or trying to help change her diaper, they do make us feel welcome. One of the more groovy measures the elderly choose to express their love to our little girl is by giving her money. This happens much less often than the touching or candy giving, however, it always seems much more genuine and selfless. Money is healthier for her than the other two as well – except for those first few times she tried to eat it. Now two years old, Anna still gets touched, but her hands work well enough to occasionally give a hair pull or smack of a touch in return to the unwanted advances. When anyone invades her personal space, she utters something in Korean to them. This often causes them to pull back and laugh. Ah, my little girl. They grow up so fast. BUSANHAPS.com

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HAPS FASHION

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Shopping in Busan: The Basics By Christy Swain

I was recently approached in a KSU bar by a rather scandalously clad young Brit, and asked if I wanted to be her new shopping pal. She said she needed a friend who could tell her what looked good and where she could find “High Street” Busan. I politely declined, as I could see we might have a few differences of opinion in the style department (it seemed wise considering her crotch exposing outfit) but it did get me thinking: When I first got to Korea, I too had no idea where to start. Where was I to find my size or my style in the myriad of women’s stores Busan has to offer? Also, being six-feet-tall, without a hint of the word petite, I felt the severe limitations of my options to the point of them being none at all. Luckily, thanks to good friends and hours of experimentation, and at times humiliation, I found there was plenty to choose from and the choices are increasing every year.

Challenge Number One: Where to start? Nampo-dong is the number one shopping area where most all of your bases are covered; from the high-end to the 5,000 won stores. The newly opened Lotte Department Store has the largest of the Zara franchises in town, a well-stocked MNG, and all the luxury brands your credit card can handle. Along the main strip are plenty more options as well: an American Apparel (the prices might scare you compared to back home), Tommy Hilfiger, Accessorize, Guess and Korean brand Codes Combine are the highlights. There are also a number of second-hand Salvation Army type stores and Korean “boutiques” with more reasonable prices and unique pieces – though the outrageous prices of the “vintage” stores may dissuade you. Who’d have thought something you threw out in high school would now fetch such a mint! PNU is the part of town where you’ll find some of the best cheap clothing stores mixed in with some quality outlet stores. 5,000 won stores abound here, with most of the action happening in the several blocks closest to the subway station. Walk up a block towards the university, and you’ll find “Fashion Town,” a street of international and Korean outlet stores boasting 20-70% off on a year-round basis. It’s hit and miss, so it’s not for the shopper who lacks patience, but there are bargains to be had amongst some of the world’s top brand names. Then there is Seomyeon, which immediately brings to mind Lotte Department Store, as well as the underground shopping maze that spreads from the subway station outwards. The Daehyeon Underground Shopping Mall seems a neverending and ongoing mission to find what you’re looking for in the countless shoebox-sized stores, and is thus not for the faint-hearted (or claustrophobic) shopper. Feel free to bargain a little in these stores – they’ll probably knock off 10% if you can charm them with your minimal Korean skills. 26 BUSANHAPS_spring 2011

Challenge Number Two: Which Store? The Department Store: This is the place where you’re going to find some of your favorite western brands and a variety of sizes. The staff are frustratingly over-attentive, but without the bitchy attitudes of retail staff you might be used to back home. Lotte is rumoured to be in talks with H&M, so we may see the European megabrand down here soon. Two of the best – Lotte in Nampo-dong and the tourist mecca Shinsaegae in Centum City – offer most anything the brand-hungry shopper may want. Korean “boutiques” (those little stores with the interesting window displays and the bored retail staff sitting inside updating their Cyworld pages) can be a gold mine with better quality basics and unique pieces at reasonable prices. 5,000 won stores: My favourite spot to pick up cute and quirky t-shirts. These overcrowded, brightly lit Aladdin’s caves may seem intimidating, but I recommend you give them a shot. Stick out your elbows and steal your nerves – there are hidden gems to be had. Just be aware – this is quantity over quality shopping.

Challenge Number Three: Finding your size You are going to hear “one size” and “no big size” more than once if you opt for the cheaper and independent stores. Depending on the style, “one size” is anywhere between small and medium for girls, and medium to large for guys. A lot of these stores have changing rooms, but it’s the luck of the draw if they’ll let you try something on. In my experience, being polite, smiling and using as much Korean as you can muster goes a long way. It may be tempting to surround yourself with a posse of shopping pals, but it often makes the retail staff uncomfortable and therefore less helpful. Chain stores and department stores have a range of sizes, often up to 88 women’s or 110 men’s. If you are unsure, try online conversion charts to get familiar with the sizes. Women’s shoes go up to 260 (US 8.5, EU 39) and men’s 300 (US 12 EU 45/46) if you’re lucky. Oh shoe shopping, how I miss you so! If there’s one tip I can offer you it’s this: BE BRAVE! You never know until you try something on, and just like your mama says, “You won’t know ‘til you ask!” You’ll probably experience more failure than success to begin with, but with a bit of persistence and a coffee break or two, you’ll find something to spend your hard-earned Korean won on. BUSANHAPS.com

Business Maker Profile Name: Kang Tae ho D.D.S PhD Origin: Korea Occupation: Director, Dr. Kang’s Dental Clinic

How long have you been in business? My father established the clinic in 1951, during the Korean War. It was the second dental clinic in Seomyeon, and he was the best in his field in prosthodontics. I’ve been with the business since 1988, and have been the Director since 1999 when my father passed away. I am also one of the leading pioneers of dental implant service in the country, with over 20 years of experience.

What is the philosophy of the business? Our goal is to be a dental clinic people can trust and rely on. I learned everything I know from my father, but I continue to expand my knowledge in the field all the time. In 60 years, we’ve never had any problems with the business which is almost unheard of in the dental industry.

What can a patient expect from a visit to your clinic? We hope to provide an experience that is comfortable, cozy, and most of all, clean and sanitary to our patients. We do our best to provide a friendly atmosphere, and to get to know our patients on a more personal level.

What kind of treatments/services do you offer? Is it affordable? We are most well-known for our implants, laser treatments, teeth whitening, prosthodontics and general dentistry. In general, our services cost half the price of getting dental work done in the U.S., though we use the exact same equipment as they do. We also have English service for our foreign clients so they feel more comfortable.

Any advice for nervous patients? I usually just tell them to trust Dr. Kang’s Dental Clinic! Kang’s Dental Clinic is located at Seomyeon Stn. Exit 2, just on your left. For further information, call 051-802-6377 BUSANHAPS.com

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HAPS FILM

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The Social Network Haps film critic, Thomas Bellmore, looks at the highly popular Social Network as well as giving his top ten films for 2010. The Social Network might not be the best film from David Fincher’s copious amount outstanding work, but it certainly set a high-water mark in 2010 that not few other films could match. Consider that Fincher is responsible for much-lauded directorial efforts such as Seven, Fight Club, The Curious Case of Benjamin Button, and the criminally overlooked Zodiac (arguably his best film). Putting it into perspective, it’s almost ironic that The Social Network is the film that brought him top prizes at the Golden Globes and put him in the running for an Oscar for Best Director. Fincher himself has stated that he feels there is a defining factor that separates “movies” from “film”, and I for one tend to agree with him. Movies are mostly spectacle, and are intended to be absorbed purely for entertainment value. Film, on the other hand, can be subjected to scrutiny based on artistic merit. The Social Network, as David Fincher noted, is a movie first. It wraps itself around the spectacle of a man who has a tendency to lash out at his peers due to his own lack of empathy. This is the man we all know as the creator of Facebook, Mark Zuckerberg. Aaron Sorkin’s screenplay doesn’t rely on the gimmick of entertaining the most popular social networking site ever created, instead it uses its scathing human interactions and sharp dialogue as a springboard for understanding the people behind it. The film’s representation of certain facts is in dispute, as is an exaggeration of dramatic tension, obviously for entertainment value. This doesn’t, however, rob The Social Network of its ability to provide insight into the core mechanics behind the wonderfully scripted drama. We understand

It’s unfortunate that cinemas in the ROK continue to import the dregs of North American film, while so many great works have yet to see a release on South Korean soil. These include, but are not limited to, acclaimed hits such as the Coen Brothers’ adaptation of True Grit, Darren Aronofsky’s Black Swan (which will surely bring Natalie Portman her first Oscar), David O. Russell’s The Fighter, Sylvain Chomet’s The Illusionist, Derek Cianfrance’s Blue Valentine, Tom Hooper’s The King’s Speech, and the list goes on. I am confident that we might see a few of these gems make it to Korean cinemas for limited engagements in time for the Academy Awards season, but for me, it’s way too late to start singing the praises of these already critically touted films. Hence, my eternally grateful poise for last year’s Pusan International Film Festival, and some of the incredible entries that were churned out. Rather than complain about what I couldn’t see, I will focus my efforts on creating a short list of the films I managed to see throughout 2010. Here are some of my personal favorites:

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that people tend to screw other people over via misunderstanding and awkward social tension. The Social Network comes complete with David Fincher’s trademark cinematography, which is slightly washed out and exudes a dark and dreamlike hue. His focus, though, is never on the nuance of technology and always on the nuance of performance. Jessie Eisenberg, Andrew Garfield, and even Justin Timberlake (of all people) are up to the task of matching Fincher’s demand for a performance that is more than dynamic. The actors are given every inch of breathing room in which to mold and shape the characters as much as possible. It’s clear that each scene is built around performance, and that’s the only way in which The Social Network could succeed. It’s not enough to have a really popular subject; it is everything to exercise the human driving force behind that subject, and this film does so effortlessly. David Fincher and Aaron Sorkin don’t set out to explore the popularity of Facebook, or even its humble beginnings. What they have done is created a film to explore a situation where the capitalist mindset is poised to strike at the heart of the friendships and various social interactions that make up the tapestry of our daily lives. Zuckerberg isn’t aware of the places that his ideas can take him, he simply sets out on a path of creation giving little credence to those closest to him. This is, in essence, the tragedy that is The Social Network, possibly the year’s best film. We can expect a DVD/Blu-ray release in Korea sometime this month, so definitely check it out if you missed it in theaters.

10 Of The Best From 2010 1. The Social Network (U.S., directed by David Fincher) 2. Inception (U.S., directed by Christopher Nolan) 3. Aftershock (China, directed by Feng Xiaogang) 4. Au Revoir, Taipei (Taiwan, directed by Arvin Chen) 5. Toy Story 3 (U.S., directed by Lee Unkrich) 6. The Man From Nowhere - 아저씨 (S.K., directed by Lee Jeong-beom) 7. Shutter Island (U.S., directed by Martin Scorsese) 8. Secret Reunion – 의형제 (S.K., directed by Jang Hun) 9. Let Me In (U.S., directed by Matt Reeves) 10. Scott Pilgrim vs. The World (U.S./Canada, directed by Edgar Wright) BUSANHAPS.com

Dear Korea By Jen Lee

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HAPS

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Survival Korean With Professor Gus

Love in the Time of Korea … or ‘hoof and mouth”. I’m not sure which title is better, or more accurate. But in any case, most of those reading this will have chosen to spend this season in Korea. After living here for some time, I have come to the conclusion that either Busan is a very romantic city (I think I heard it referred to as the Paris of Northeast Asia, although not by a Parisian), or that the nation’s greeting card, candy and jjajang-myun industries have brilliantly conspired together to make it appear so. For you see, Korea has three distinct holidays for lovers. So get used to it boys, you’re gonna be shellin’ out this spring. For those who are new to the country, the three holidays are Valentine’s Day, White Day and Black Day. Here is how you say those days in Korean: ‘Val-en-tine’s-Day’, White-Day and Black-Day.

Valentine’s Day - April 1st No, I’m just kidding, it’s February 14th here also, but that’s where the comparison ends. In Korea on Valentine’s Day, women give men gifts of chocolate and candy. That’s right, I said ‘chocolate AND candy’, because here, chocolate (초 코렛 choh-koh-let) and candy (사탕 sah-tahng) are not the same thing. In Korean, candy means all candy… except for chocolate. If your girlfriend or wife is an expat, don’t surprise them at dinner with expectations of getting candy (I’ve tried, it doesn’t work.) If your significant other is Korean however, you may hear the following:

My boyfriend gave me these silver earrings for White Day. What did you get? White-day day nay nahm-jah cheen-gu-nun uhn-gweegoh-ree chaw-saw-yo. Moo-uh-sull bah-dah-saw-yo? 화이트데이 떄 내 남자 친구는 은귀걸이 를 나한테 줬어요. 무엇을 받았어요? To which she would reply: “Nothing. We don’t celebrate White Day.” Moht bah-dah-saw-yo. Way gook-ay-nun White-day-gah awp-saw-yo.못 받았어요. 외국에는 화이트데이가 없어요. And then the inevitable: “Oh, I see. That’s too bad.” Ahl-gay-saw-yo. Ahn-det-goon-yo. 알겠어요. 안됐군요. However, she could retort: “So, I don’t see a ring on your finger!” Guh-ray-saw, Nah-nun naw-uh-ee sohn gah-rahkay yahk-hohn bahn-jee ahn boh-yaw-yo. 그레 서 나는 너의 손가락에 약혼 반지 안 보여요. To which she would hear: “We don’t give engagement rings in Korea.” Han-gook-ay-nun yahk-hohn bahn-jee ahn choomnee-dah. 한국에는 약혼반지 안 줍니다. Followed by her inevitable: “Oh I see. That’s too bad.” Ahl-gay-saw-yo. Ahn-det-goon-yo. 알겠어요. 안됐군요. To read about the HORRORS OF BLACK DAY! (April 14th, really!), visit the Busan Haps website: www.busanhaps.com

Sweetheart, happy Valentine’s Day! Jah-gee-yah, Valentine-day choo-kah hay! 자기야, 발렌타인데이 축하해. You’re a great boyfriend! Naw-nun choh-uhn nam-jah cheengu yah! 너는 좋은 남자 친구야. I love you. Sah-rahng hay 사랑해. Where is this relationship going? Oo-ri ahp-uh-roh yawn-een gwahn-gay-gah dell-kah? 우리 앞으로 연인관계가 될까?

White Day – March 14th White Day in Korea (and before you ask, the color has no relationship whatsoever to the holiday), is what we think of as Valentine’s Day back home (minus the construction paper mailboxes and 5 cent cards). Men give the ladies gifts of candy AND chocolate, and possibly more expensive fare depending on your level of commitment. I suggest you check with a Korean woman before deciding on an appropriate gift. Men with expat girlfriends, you’re probably in the clear. But while talking to her coworkers, she may hear: BUSANHAPS.com

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HAPS FOOD

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The Dish: The Art of the Spring Roll by Jen Sotham

When talking about food, one debate never fails to arise: ‘Is cooking an art or a science?’ The truth is that it is very much both. I’ve had friends assert that either you ‘get it’ or ‘you don’t,’ insisting that understanding flavor is innate. There are just some people who understand food intuitively. They can conceive of unique flavor combinations simply because they have the ability to imagine taste, much in the same way that a painter can envision the juxtaposition of certain colors. This is the art. The science of it is a whole other animal, and one that can be easily learned. I’ve always struggled with the science part of cooking, due mostly to my reluctance to follow recipes. A great way to have fun with different ingredients, and to earn props at a dinner party, is mastering the art of the spring roll. Though spring rolls are a staple in many Asian cuisines,

they are absent from the Korean repertoire, hence my obsession with making them at home. I am equally enthralled with the fresh (rice paper) and deep fried (pastry) spring rolls. They each have their merits, and they each require equal amounts of trial and error before being perfected. I find that getting a nice, compact wrap is easier with pastry spring roll wrappers, but there’s the added process of frying them – which can be messy. Not to mention much more fattening. Vietnamese rice paper wrappers are available at almost every large mart, but pastry wrappers are hard to come by. The small imported foods store in the basement of Shinsaegae carries brand name, Spring House TYJ Spring Roll Pastries in the refrigerated section. As for the rest of the ingredients, I usually go for whatever veggies are about to go bad in my fridge.

Spring Rolls – Two Ways Makes 15 spring rolls

rolls, I might try eggplant and mozzarella with a marinara dipping sauce (my Italian grandma’s marinara recipe to come in a future issue).

Ingredients: 15 round rice paper wrappers OR 30 pastry wrappers (double wrapping avoids them falling apart while frying) 2 bunches enoki mushrooms, roots cut off 1 large carrot, grated lengthwise 1 small zucchini, julienne (shoestring) cut ¼ head of purple cabbage, finely chopped ½ cup olive or grape seed oil 1 Tbsp. minced garlic 1 Tbsp. peanut butter 1 Tbsp. lemon juice Fresh cilantro and/or basil if you can find it 3 Tbsp. soy sauce 2-3 Tbsp. sriracha sauce (gochu-jang, or red pepper paste, is an appropriate substitute) Salt and pepper to taste

For frying: One egg ½ cup water 3 cups soybean or vegetable oil

Tools: Large cutting board or other surface for rolling, wok/sauté pan, grater For fresh spring rolls: A large bowl of hot water For fried spring rolls: A small pot, tongs and A LOT of paper towels Like I’ve said, once you get the science of it down, it’s time to get creative. I’m thinking that the next time I do fried spring 32 BUSANHAPS_spring 2011

Method: Place all the ingredients in a wok and sauté for 10-12 minutes. Drain ALL the excess oil/juices out of the wok. Transfer to a bowl beside a large, clean, flat surface.

For fresh spring rolls:

Immerse a rice paper wrapper into a bowl of hot water for two seconds. Lay the paper flat and place a heaping tablespoon of the sautéed mixture in the center of the wrapper, arranging it in a horizontal line that leaves an inch on either side and two inches on the top and bottom. Fold all the sides while poking it to secure the wrap. This part takes some practice. Patience, grasshopper!

For fried spring rolls:

Make an egg wash (mix an egg and a cup of water). Peel two wrappers from the stack and lay as a diamond. Use a brush (or your fingers) to lightly coat the entire wrapper with the egg wash. Place a heaping spoonful of your sautéed mixture in the center, and follow the same instructions as above for rolling. Heat the canola or vegetable oil in a small pot until it is sizzling. Place 3-4 spring rolls into the oil. Fry for one minute on each side, using tongs to turn them. Place spring rolls on several layers of paper towel to remove excess grease. For a no-brainer, yet killer, dipping sauce, mix: 3/4 cup mayonnaise 4 Tbsp. soy sauce 2 Tbsp. Wasabi 1 Tbsp. grated ginger (powdered if you’re NOT using a food processor) BUSANHAPS.com

Drinks to Stump Your Bartender

A Hole In One 1 1/2 oz Johnnie Walker Red Label 1 tbsp honey 3 oz unsweetened tea 1 lemon wedge Serve over ice in a rocks glass and garnish with the lemon wedge.

Bloated Monkey 1 ounce Bacardi rum 1 ounce peach schnapps 1/2 ounce Grand Marnier orange liqueur 1 ounce pineapple juice 1 ounce orange juice Maraschino cherry for garnish Fill a cocktail glass with ice. Add all the ingredients and stir. Garnish with a maraschino cherry.

Hop Skip and Go Naked 1/4 ounce cherry brandy 1/4 ounce vodka 1/4 ounce triple sec 1/2 ounce lime juice Orange juice Grenadine syrup & Ice Fill a cocktail glass with ice. Add the liqueurs. Add the lime juice. Fill to top with orange juice. Float the grenadine on top. BUSANHAPS.com

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HAPS DIRECTORY Haeundae Food Starface - British and Indian food. Good pizzas and Charles makes a mean curry. On Dalmaji. (Check ad) The Wolfhound - Irish Pub and Restaurant. Very popular for the food. Fish and Chips of course and breakfast all day on weekends. Geckos Bar - The great taste that became famous in Seoul is now in Busan on the beach at the Pale de CZ building. They brought the chef from Seoul to stay true to the original taste. Namaste - An Indian restaurant right near the beach restaurant. Real Indian food. namasterestaurant.co.kr The Table - Mediterranean food in Benecity. Top notch, good desserts, get with that Euro-thing.

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Hello Kimchi - Odd name for a spot serving tacos, burritos, enchilladas and excellent fajitas. 2 minute walk from Jangsan Station. (See ad) 051-701-5199 Il Sole - Stellar Italian food, with the best view in Busan from the top of Dalmaji Hill. The T-bone is magnifico and the pasta divine. Fuzzy Naval - Better known as a bar, but they serve up some good tacos. Across from Wolfhound. Taco Senora - Tough to find. Take the street going to the beach from SFUNZ. In a little alley on the left near Save Zone. 051-744-4050 An-Ga - Some of the best Korean BBQ in Busan. From the Jung Dong exit, walk towards Dalmaji Hill. It’s on your right. 051-742-7852 Sharky’s Bar - Arguably

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one of the best steaks in town at a good price. Also try the avocado bacon cheesburger with a side of garlic potatoes. Taco al Puebla - Built his reputation for Mexican several years back. Solid burritos. In the Sea Cloud Hotel on Beach Road. The Party - Located in the Pale de CZ, it’s the best buffet in town. Reservations strongly recommended.

Haeundae Bars Diamond Lounge New spot just above Thursday Party. $5 Mojitos on Thursday’s, too. Viva la Cuba. Club Maktum - One of Busan’s best spots for dancing right across from the Paradise Hotel. Miami 88 – Two loca-

tions at the beach.Both locations are great. 24/7 Bar - A swank new spot in Haeundae with the true lounge atmosphere and a TV spread like you’ve never seen. The Wolfhound – Just in from Seoul, this Irish Pub/Restaurant has one of the best selections of beers in town. Great atmosphere and top notch staff. Rock n’ Roll House – Bar and Grill with darts/pool/incredible view. On the 14th floor across from the aquarium. Great burgers, cheap drinks. Fuzzy Navel - Across the street from The Wolfhound. Nightly fire show. Geckos – The legendary watering hole of Itaewon is now in Haeundae. Face the beach, eat a great burger and drink a cold beer. Pale de Cz.

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HAPS DIRECTORY

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Haeundae Bars contd.

Murpii Bar – On the beach at Novotel. Remodelled and back to its old form. 051-743-1234 U2 Bar – Dance Bar/ Live Bands. Darts. Pool. Across from the Novotel. The ultimate hip layout lounge life. Weekends draw good crowds. Thursday Party – 2 locations in Haeundae. Great atmosphere, good selection. Jangsan: 051-703-6621. Beach: 051-744-6621 Starface – On Dalmaji Hill. One of the most relaxing bars in Busan. Great music, pool, darts and now they’ve got Indian food. Charming Charles is usually at the bar with a cold beer and dry wit. Sharky’s Bar - Right on the beach at Pale de

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CZ, 2nd floor next to the Paradise Hotel. One of the best steaks in town and shuffleboard! Club Elune - Busan’s hippest place to dance with the world’s most famous DJs.

Gwangan Food Felice - Possibly some of the best Italian food in Busan. The chef/ owner has crafted his own style after several years of study. Fuzzy Navel - Mexican food on the beach. Play nice, the fire show takes precedent to your order. Saigon “Pho”- Vietnamese. Across the street from the Starbucks, just off the beach. Solid. Guess Who? Everything on the menu, reasonable prices, good view. Breeze Burns - Have a hamburger on the

beach. It’s a chain, but they do all right with the burger. 10 Tables - Very cool spot to eat and look out at the water. Hamburgers are decent and prices ok. East Village Cafe - The cafe is beautifully decorated, has great coffee, hand-baked pastries. Korean Natural Food Restaurant - Vegetarian with a good selection of veggie dishes. Paris Cafe - Two stories right on the beach with a cozy cafe on the first floor and a sprawling open-air wood and brick dining room up top. Great views. 051-751-2814

Gwangan Bars Enoch Mansion - A hip place with a hip owner that is still largely unrecognized. Very lounge-

like atmosphere. Definitely a cool place to sit back relax and chill with a cheap drink and rich sound. They even have free DJ lessons if you wanna add a few lines to your resume. Thursday Party - Two locations to go with many others. The one in Gwangan did so well, they opened another location a few doors down. On the beach. 051-7580822/051-753-6621 Holloway Road Pub - Located right on Gwangan Beach with a great view of the Gwangan Bridge from the rooftop lounge. Hollywood Star - Relaxed bar a few blocks off the beach. American nostalgia right down to the Harley in the middle of the bar. A long standing spot with Contd. Next Page

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HAPS DIRECTORY Gwangan Bars contd.

the expat community and a short walk from the shore. Pool/ Darts. 051-622-6621 Fuzzy Navel - Similar in style and atmosphere to the one in Haeundae. Fire show good in winter.

Seomyeon Food Florians’s - Across the street from TGI Fridays. All you can eat buffet with a wide variety of offerings. Good Stuff. Loving Hut - Vegetarian. Take Seomyeon Exit 2, left across from Outback. Cultish but truly veggie stuff. Dig the always-on infomercial. Buffalo - Chicken chain. Popular with students. No buffalo on the menu as yet. The Pancakes - Great breakfast menu,

blueberry pancakes, real French toast. Heaps of syrup. Hamkyung Myeon-Ok Cold noodle restaurant, excellent during the humid summer months. Fuzzy Navel - Busy on the weekends and some pretty good Mexican food. Worth a stop in.

Seomyeon Bars Metal City - Solid music scene with some of Busan’s top acts on weekends. (See ad) Foxy - Two story dance club in the heart of Seomyeon. Packed weekends. Rock n’ Roll Bar - Look for the large sign with Kurt Cobain down the small street perpendicular to Lotte Hotel. Guri Bar - Right behind the Lotte Hotel, Guri bar has been around a long time.

HAEUNDAE

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Thursday Party - Good selection of drafts and cocktails. Busy on the weekends. Cozy atmosphere, great staff. Fuzzy Navel - across from Thursday Party. Fire show and drinks.

Kyungsung Food Evas - Good pub grub out of Evas kitchen and great atmosphere for drinks. Across from Family Mart. HQ Bar - Real American “cuisine” from Mutt’s kitchen. Weekly specials and a really great Philly Cheese. Aussie Burger - New spot in Kyunsung down from Ol’55. Burgers and meat pies. Worth a look. Burger and Pasta From the owners of Thursday Party. Great food, good prices. Good wine. Bae Dae Po - Korean BBQ seafood and meat.

Eu Dae Di - BBQ pork. Across from Thursday Party. Menu is in Korean. Gogiya - Excellent meat restaurant right across from the HQ bar. Great dinner sets and friendly staff. Painted Chair Cafe Art Gallery/Cafe with brunch. Great for food and a good cup of coffee afterwards. Burger Hunter - Fresh made burgers at a reasonable price. Next to Starbucks. Thomas Grill - A runner-up in last in Busan Haps 2010 Best Burger contest. They serve up some delicious sloppiness at a good price.

Kyungsung Bars Long Tea - Great Long Islands, atmosphere, Contd. Next Page

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HAPS DIRECTORY

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pool and darts. (See ad) Zip Code - Bring a friend on Thursdays, get 50% off drinks. Yea, really. HQ - Best sports bar around. Great American food and drinks. Club Fabric - Great decor inside, with lots of room. Under new ownership. Foxy - Great spot for dancing and very good drink prices. Thursday Party - Stylish, open air bar with outside seating and a good view of the parade. New York 88 - Great selection of import beers and cocktails. Dart board, great music including Hip-Hop. Ol’55 - A great spot for tunes, with an amazing collection of vinyl. Pool table. Very popular open-mic on Wed. Vinyl Underground - This is a long-time legendary for great live music.

Eva’s - Good menu with a variety of western food to satiate your palette.

soup, not very traditional, but close. Real Vietnamese coffee.

Kino Eye- Movies on the big screen. The lights are dim if you want to take a blind date there. Enjoy.

Shabana - Serious Indian food, cooked by top chefs from a family that cooks around the world.

Club Realize - Busan’s true Metal Bar with the occasional hip hop to keep it real. Lots of live stuff on weekends.

Taco’s Family - Personal favorite. Owner is awesome, food good. Lardfree homemade beans.

Cafe Radio - Cool, quiet, with a great atmosphere. Cafe-slash-bar. Radios.

PNU Food Fish & Pork - BBQ Shell fish. Cheap. Can sit outside if the weather is right. Exit 3 from subway, go left. Won Cho - “Real Korea” feeling. Variety of traditional Korean dishes. Same street as Basement. Pho - Above Kebabistan. Outside of the

PNU

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Kebabistan - New owners, good Turkish food with everything from lamb to kebabs. Reasonable prices as well.

PNU Bars Soultrane – One of the area’s oldest and most well-known foreign bars. In the basement beneath Crossroads. Good setup for live music. The Basement – Celebrating its 8th year, The Basement is one of the most popular bars in Busan.

Crossroads – Open Mic on Thurs. Great music. 051-515-1181. Right in the heart of the PNU district. A legend. Interplay – Live music, Jazz, Korean Indie and punk. Open Mic Thurs. 011-873-2200 Monks Bar - Good spot for Korean Indie bands. Great K-Punk scene. Pop in on the weekends and you are sure to see a rockin’ band. Red Bottle - Where the old Moe’s once was, now sits the Red Bottle. Still has the cool atmosphere and the new owner seems a nice lot.