Busan Haps Magazine Issue 14 by Haps Magazine

Slot Machine Lottery June 1st through August 27 Win designer luxury items and up to 5,000,000won in Lucky Chips.

Toyota Dealership

Paradise Hotel 1F Novotel Hotel 1408-5 Joong-dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan, Korea www.paradisebusan.com Tel +82-51-749-3550 (Information Desk) +82-51-749-3386

CO FEATURES

5 Questions: Pinnacle 14 A Small Roof, a World of Film Our Favorite “Loser” 24 For the People 28

SPORT Garcia Speaks Schedules 42

REGULARS

Events 07 Earthly Possessions 08 Short Stuff 10 On the Beaten Path 12 The Dish: Hits the Spot 32 Tharp On: Drinking 44

GUIDES

Two Days in Busan 12 Let’s Play 18 Billie Jean 34 Restaurant Guide 36 Hotel Guide 38 Bar Guide 39 Area Maps 46 Busan Metro Map 49 On the Cover: Chris Tharp Photography: Mike Dixon Makeup Artist: Sun-ju Kim On This Page: Pinnacle TheHustler Photography: Daniel D.G. Kim

t feels great rounding out the hot summer with a very cool issue. In terms of expat star-power, we are well covered. Cover boy, Chris Tharp, was Busan Haps’ very first columnist in our very first issue. Now, the musician/comedian/writer has gone and published a book, which is brilliantly reviewed by Steve Feldman. We also got a chance to talk with Karim Garcia about his life here as a baseball superstar. And though not yet a superstar, the very talented Jason Waller, A.K.A. Pinnacle TheHustler, is well on his way – we gave him five questions. Artist Britt Kee Irvin does a nice piece on Korean graffiti, and as always, Jen Sotham finds another way for us to put on more weight with her joyous take on food, this time a review of pub/restaurant, The Spot. This issue is packed, with plenty to go around. If only we could say the same about summer, which will soon start easing its way out of our lives until next year. Enjoy.

Translation:

Steve Feldman Dustin Heffner Chris Tharp Jen Sotham Dave Faulk Tom McKee Thomas Bellmore Britt Kee Irvin Brian Kilrain Jeff Liebsch Tory Mock Bobby McGill

Hye-Jeong Bae Min-Ja Ko Photographers:

Mike Dixon Peter DeMarco Daniel D.G. Kim Thomas Bellmore BMc Illustration: Kelsey Smith Intern: Ju-young Moon

SUBMISSIONS busanhaps@gmail.com

ADVERTISING mikey.busanhaps@gmail.com soo.busanhaps@gmail.com (한국어) Follow us @busanhaps Busan Haps Magazine Busan Haps August/September 2011 Issue 14 Business Registration Number: 00001 First Publication Date: Sept, 2, 2009 Address: Ocean Tower #1726, 760-3, Woo 1 Dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan, Republic of Korea 612-822

www.busanhaps.com Subscriptions: soo.busanhaps@gmail.com One Year/6 Issues 10,000 KRW 30% Donated to Women’s Shelters Disclaimer: The opinions in the magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher. Questions or comments: busanhaps@gmail.com ©2011 Busan Haps Magazine

S R O T U B I C O NTR

2. 1. 3.

1.Dave Faulk (L) and Tom McKee (R) Dave and Tom, when not writing for Busan Awesome, enjoy sports (especially soccer) and drinking (especially beer). They both think big cities are awesome (especially Busan). You can check out their blog at busan. cityawesome.com

2. Brian Kilrain Brian Kilrain is from a small New England town you’ve never heard of. He spent all his 20s as a glorified carny and is now proud to call Busan home. He also is a big fan of tall jokes.

4.Thomas Bellmore When he’s not busy parting the Red Sea, Thomas Bellmore is usually at home watching a movie, reading and writing on the Internet, or making a desperate 3.Dustin Heffner Dustin Heffner is a sports fanatic who attempt to be productive. He hails from Ontario, Canada, but has began writing back in 1997 — he completed his first real sentence soon been living in Busan for the past four years with his super intelligent after. After receiving a Bachelor’s wife, Katerina. Degree in Journalism in 2000, he 5.Jen Sotham began writing full-time for a variety Jen Sotham has been with Haps of newspapers in Western Canada. Finally coming to his senses in 2003, since issue one. She hails from New York and has lived in Busan he relocated to Busan and decided to focus his time and talents on since 2006. Her writing has apsomething more productive - fantasy peared in magazines, guidebooks and anthologies, including Travelsports.

ers’ Tales: Women’s Travel Writing 2008. 6.Steve Feldman Steve Feldman grew up near Emily Dickinson’s house in Massachusetts, and has been living in Korea for seven years. He’s well-known in the Busan scene as a writer, director, and as “Angry Steve.”

EVE NTS Batucada Sound Machine August 28th, Vinyl Underground Batucada Sound Machine are a dynamic 10-piece group who have captivated audiences at festivals around the world with their breathtaking variety of tempos, timings, beats, styles and raw on-stage energy. Their trademark mix of heavy Brazilian beats, hip hop and afroinfluenced grooves have garnered them a legion of fans around Australasia and the world. batucadasoundmachine.com

Busan International Film Festival: October 6 - 14 er, Busan Cinema Cent Centum City

ly renamed The 16th version of the new ly October, ear in ay erw und s festival get do them out to and this year promises 200,000 and vies mo 300 r ove h all. Wit an CinBus new the , movie spectators et the arrival gre to dy rea is ter Cen a em tival. of Asiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s biggest film fes www.biff.kr

Linkin Park: September 8, Seoul Gymnastic Stadium American alternative rock band Linkin Park are set to rock Seoul Gymnastic Stadium on September 8th. The two-time Grammy Award winning band from Agoura Hills, California are in the midst of their 2011 A Thousand Suns World Tour. Tickets are 99,000 to 110,000 won. ticket.interpark.com

EARTHLY POSSESSIONS CELADON POTTERY From its origins in the Zheijian Province of China, Korea’s adaptation and eventual perfection of the art of Celadon pottery has been well-respected throughout northeast Asia since the 10th century. A great piece of decoration for your apartment here in Korea, or something you can treasure when you go back home, the price range of a Celadon vase can run you from 100,000 won to well over 1 million, depending on the quality and reputation of the artist. The word “Celadon”, refers to a family of transparent glazes, many with pronounced cracks in the enamel-like finish, and is produced in a wide variety of colors, before being applied to porcelain or stone pottery. Though green is the most widely used here in Korea, there are other colors including white, grey, blue and yellow, depending on the thickness of the glaze, the type of material to which it is applied and what is added to the glaze by the artist. The most well-known shades range in color from a very pale green to deep intense green, often intended to mimic the green shades of jade.

SWEET LEMON BODY BUTTER Your skin takes a beating in the summer. Sun, sweat and grime are not your skin’s best friends so, when a little pampering for your body’s largest organ is due, the Body Shop’s Sweet Lemon Body Butter is just what the summer assault on your skin ordered. If you are a fan of realistic fragrances, then Sweet Lemon Body Butter will not disappoint, though there is nothing sweet about it. In fact, we’re not even sure why they tacked the word “sweet” on the front of the product name, considering that real lemons are never sweet unless the word “ade” is tacked onto the end. As is always the case with Body Shop products, the packaging is visually appealing and gives a slight feeling of refreshment, even when you just see it sitting there in your bathroom medicine cabinet. You can pick up a jar at any of the several Body Shop locations around Busan, and give your skin the lovin’ it deserves for about 10,000 won.

08 BUSANHAPS_august/september 2011

HAVAIANA FLIP FLOPS Sandals are the most popular footwear in the world. One canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t help but marvel when traveling abroad to poorer countries and seeing that they are even used as work shoes on construction sites. Havaiana rubber flip flops are renowned for their solid quality which, in our opinion, should be worthy of a Nobel Prize for ingenuity. How can something so seemingly flimsy and lightweight withstand such a beating? They arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t making armored tanks with the same material, but it is surprising how much of a pummeling they can take underfoot. You can pick up a pair in a variety of styles around Busan at ABC Mart, Lotte Department Store and Emart for 30 to 50,000 won.

2011 august/september_BUSANHAPS 09

SHORT STUFF Haps Readers Donate to Women’s Shelter

Through subscriptions by Busan Haps readers, the magazine was proud to present a 300,000 won donation to the Maria Battered Women’s Shelter, a non-profit organization specifically for divorced women with children. The shelter was founded in 1956 after the Korean War, and has helped over 1000 women since it opened its doors. Busan Haps donates 30% of the cost of each subscription to the magazine to the shelter. If you are interested in helping, you can contact them at 2121maria@daum.net. If you are donating money, you can specify what you want it to be used for, be it clothing, food or even a day at the movies. To subscribe to Haps, visit www.busanhaps.com/subscribe

Haps 독자들, ‘여성쉼터’에 기부

Busan Haps에서 이번에 이혼한 여성과 자녀들을 돌보는 비영리 단체 ‘마리아 모자원’에 독자들의 손길을 통해 모은 30만원을 선물로 안겨다 주게 되었다. 쉼터는 6.25 한국 전쟁 이후인 1956 년에 설립되어, 문을 연 이래로 지금까지 1000명이 넘는 여성들과 그들의 자녀들을 도와주고 있다. Busan Haps는 독자들이 보내오 는 구독료의 30%를 모아 쉼터에 기부하고 있다. 도움을 주고 싶다 면, 2121maria@daum.net으로 쉼터에 연락해볼 수 있다. 만약 니 가 기부를 한다면 그것은 의류나 음식 그리고 하루영화관 나들이시 켜주는등인 용도로 쓰일수있다. Haps를 구독하려면, www.busanhaps.com/subscribe로 방문하 면 된다.

Yeosu World Expo Ticket Sales Begin

Tickets for next year’s Yeosu Expo 2012 went on sale last month, as the festival draws closer to its May 12th opening. Yeosu, the coastal city in South Jeolla Province, is hosting the three-month Expo under the theme “The Living Ocean and Coast.’’ Tickets for the event cost 33,000 won for adults, 25,000 for children and 19,000 won for seniors. Discounts are available for those who purchase tickets early. Tickets can be purchased either through www. expo2012.or.kr, or the online shopping mall Interpark at www.interpark.com.

여수 세계엑스포 티켓 할인

2012 여수엑스포의 개막이 내년 5월 12일로 다가 서면서 티켓 할인이 지난 달부터 시작되었다. 전라 남도의 해안도시인 여수는 이번에 ‘살아있는 바 다, 숨 쉬는 연안’이라는 주제로 3개월 간 엑스포 를 주최하게 된다. 티켓요금 성인은 3만 3천원, 어린이 2만 5천원, 노 인은 1만 9천원이며. 할인은 티켓을 일찍 구매하는 사람들에게만 적용된다. 티켓은 www.expo2012.or.kr 또는 인터넷 쇼핑 몰 사이트 www.interpark.com 두 곳에서 구매할 수 있다.

IAAF World Championships in Daegu World class track and field is back again in Daegu this year, with the nine-day IAAF World Championships running August 27th through September 4th. Jamaica’s world-class speedster, Usain Bolt, headlines a star-studded field of track athletes gunning for world records – and with good reason. The IAAF announced in May that any world record at the meet will be met with a handsome payoff of $100,000. If you’re thinking of taking a run at it, the games are, unfortunately, invitation only. Daegu is only an hour-and-a-half away from either Busan or Seoul on the KTX, so catch a train and enjoy some world-class athletics. You can get more info on the competition and on ticket sales at www.daegu2011.org

2011 대구세계육상선수권대회 세 계육상선수권대회가 이번 해 8월 27일부터 9월 4일까지 9 일간 대구에서 세계정상급들이 만나는 경쟁의 장으로 다시 돌 아온다. 자메이카 출신의 세계적인 육상선수 우사인 볼트가 세 계 기록을 노리면서 육상선수의 스타 반열에 오르게 되었다. 그 리고 이번 대회 경기에서 세계기록갱신자에게는 10만 달러(한 화 약 1억 원) 상당의 후한 상금이 주어진다고 대회측은 발표했 다. 혹시 한번 시도해 볼 생각이라면, 안타깝게도 경기출전은 초 청자에만 한한다. 대구는 부산과 서울에서 모두 각각 KTX로 한 시간 반 거리에 있다. 티켓할인 및 경기에 대한 더 자세한 정보는 www.daegu2011.org를 방문하면 알 수 있다.

2011 august/september_BUSANHAPS 11

HTravel

B U SA N

TWO DAYS IN By Dave Faulk & Tom McKee

arrow in m a r ks g B u s a n d o , th e re wn to of tw a Wher debate. Ho re tons of t o days is a e to s ough a re a tay: W wever, we to-fin bit of a cha bit fur t d spo llenge ther o e suggest hink our lis t a r ot a u t, b u either t rock s wor th a lo . While the ting b t re s G e d. ok . T h . still go w at ma are relative od. St angan-li o kes a ay in a r Se o “best ly few ‘abs my love m o of ” lis otel, a eon, since ting b lutely must nd ma t oth dif see’ la ybe – hey’re fairly ficult just m and w nd aybe central. Ha Day 1: Ear or thy – you’l e ly af ternoo l be lu undae and n – Take th Busan Sta ck y e e subway Na mp tion (assum n from ough ing you’ve and go two to get o-dong arri stops to N one w ampo-dong ved by train) ith . Nampo-do Da y 1: La ter – Have dinner ng is a gre in the Kyungsung at area to Enjoy som University (KSU) are wand e st a. Get back on the shopping yo reet food, along with er around. way orange lin sube; transfer at Seom u could wan any kind o yeon; then f the green line streets for t. Be sure to to some livel Ky hi un t gsung-dae for din the back ier street sh dusan Par ner and drinks. There opping. Yo k and Bus are about 1,0 00,00 ng- galbi and an Tower 0 good hind the m (located ju sa mg ain shoppin ye op sa l res taurants, as well st be- as an g street) ar unless it’s y other kinds of foo e cool, tho very clear, d that you’d want. ugh Some co the view fr not be wo ol o on m the top rth the price es to try: Ayuta Ind may some ian pub for . You can den roof o curry, drinks tr y the sk y f the Lott gar- and aw e Depar tm lower, but esome atmosent Store considerab for a phere ly free-er and other ; Aile Turkish/ view of the areas of B port Mediterr usan. Stop at Red Vel anean food; in for a cu vet and ea pcake t lunch at Fa Jagalchi F or Shik Shin Ga rmer’s Bur ish Market for g ers. is also acro that sort o some samgyeop ss the stre f things su sal et if its your fanc plus fondue. y. Day 1: Aft ernoon – Ta ke a ta xi an Amnam P After dinner, take ark. There d go hiking a short cab to Gw are fantas at and some angan-li Be ach. No trip to Bu tic nice cliffs o ce san is complete wit an vi ew along this s good for ei hout an ev ening spent lookin seaside par ther a casu g at the Diamond k. It’s al walk or There is an Bridge. There are ton a longer hi amazing sp s of restaurants an ke. ot and have d bars with excellent vie a picnic w to descend some step ws, or you can jus hile watch s crash agai t buy a ch ea p blanket and a lot ing the w nst the cliff of beer and chill ou aves s. It’s also do Beach t on the beach. Stock up very near S if you feel on fireworks and en onglike a swim Haesoopia joy an am az ing . Stop by So evening. Fireworks-w Spa on yo ngdo ise, it’s worth it ur and enjoy to spend the ex tra some sooth way down to the bea 20 00 won on the nic ch ing rela xatio er firewo rks . It’l l n. be the best 40 00 won you’ve ever spent.

DAY ON E

No trip to Busan complete witho is evening spent lout an at the Diamond oking Bridge.

HTravel

DAY TWO

n for , o e y m o Se od Head tohopping and foe some s out the elusiv bar or seekn Dream” Cave “Drago omyeon. near Se ther things definitely worthondoalin: g, but

the Beach: Start g - Haeundae on ng al ni k or al M w a 2: d Day breakfast an oith pe w f of of s morning the masse time before ls. each. Watch If you’ve got sea of paraso 2: Evening – Haeundae B g busy and in ay t D az si vi am e er i ire th on Dalmaj your train leaves, eith ls ai tr ple and adm e shopping th e k m for it, wal views. yeon for so ce om ni Se e m g so lin If you’re up “Dragon r st e aek Island fo out the elusiv e the bu food, or seek Hill or Dongb ith a decent brunch ar on. Get d ye an om Se w r near dongSome places ko’s, or Breeze Burns. of am” Cave ba ls re w D Gec and a few bo ng train Wolfhound, e kimchijeon a/ lo m gs e so un th ng r Yo fo x g la – Haedon help you re Day 2: Af ternoon n over to Amget swept dongju to or t on time, ru h: Before you sh ac re Be u’ yo ng If st to the a jeo e. ng rid So ae, grab san Station (ju owds at Haeund ross from Bu ac g mix of , the ’s tin d ci by away by the cr lle ex ca o an r Yonggungsa, als Les Jours) fo us To tion of of na nft bi wa le m ta xi to Haedong o or tw wonderful co Spend an hour mind you try- people, and the re d ‘water temple.’ at an th s, s oto od ph Filipino fo nds, taking dering the grou head to Russian and in buckets, then a port city. ins in co re ow u’ thr yo afto at th ing end the rest of the Sp h. ac Be ng Songjeo l, and of ten on this beautifu ternoon relaxing h. ac y be less crowded, cit

O as ing and/or se time consum game s nt ia G e tt -See a Lo mple Hike Seokbulsa Te g on je m eu and Dave on -G more by Tom e.com You can read om es san.cityaw their blog: bu

RAIN IN CASE OF World’s insegae: The Sh t ou ck he -C e or St tment Largest Depar ugh either hopping thro -Go cafe/bar yeon, or om Se , ity rs nive Kyungsung U PNU. going home en triple your -Double or ev s (Seomyno si ca of the money at one undae) eon and Hae

2011 august/september_BUSANHAPS 13

5 Questions:

PINNACLE THEHUSTLER Photograph

y by Daniel D.G. Kim Born Jason Waller, the Ci radio host and produc ncinnati native turned hip hop artist, tion company founder, TheHustler. From invest now goes by Pinnacle rising star in Korea, Pi igating credit card fraud back home to a nnacle continues to m him five questions. ove forward. We gave

At what point in your life did you realize you wanted to go int o the music business? And why Korea ? Did you consider or explore oth er artistic options back home or in other co untries?

I realized it the first time I per formed on stage. It’s fun ny because I only wanted to per form because someon e in my high school made fun of my rhymes during lunc h time. I remember standing behind that big cur tain before they called my name; I was so scared that I though t about just dropping my mic and walking home. However, when that cur tain ope ned, something took ove r my body — it was like I bec ame a different person! The screams from the crowd, the amount of respect tha tI received from my peers tha t previously dissed me and just the feeling that I had when I left the stage was all I needed to make the decisio n to pursue music. I fell in love. I came to Korea mai nly because the opportu nity presented itself. I did pur sue music back in the Sta tes, but my primary objective was to graduate college.

Blogger, Chris Ba cke, described th e music of Pinnacle & The Antidote as “a cup of hip-hop, a cu p of rock, a couple spoonfuls of jazz, a tablespoon of funk, and a dash of blues.” That brings a lot to the ta ble musically. Was this the original concep t or did it evolve as the band developed its unique soun d?

Yea, this pretty mu ch was the original concept. When Pinnacle & The Antidote (P& A) had our first rehearsal, it was kind of awkward because everyone had come from different bac kgrounds; but once we started playing, it was made ver y apparent that our difference s added so much flavor to our music. Even from the beginn ing, we’ve had a ver y wide ars enal of musical expression, but we cer tainly have experienced an abundance of development musicians along the wa y.

Are there any parti cular influences musically or otherw ise that have played an importa nt role in your evolution as a music al ar tist? Honestly, I can’t say that I have any specifi c music influences. I just love music. I listen to everything fro m hip hop to jazz to rock – even to K-p op. The biggest influence on my mu sic would have to be life, plain and simple. Now, with that said, I can tell you who I’ve been compared to; I’ve hea rd that at times I flow like Twista, I’ve heard that my rhyme pat terns remind fans of Lupe or Eminem, that I hav e a stage presence similar to Jay-Z, and voice that reminds some of my fans of Nas. Also, col lectively, P& A has been compar ed to Rage Against The Machine and The Roots .

26 BUSANHAPS_june/july 2011

thought about I t a th d re a c s I was so and walking ic m y m g in p p ro just d in when that curta r, e v e w o H . e m o h ver my body! o k o to g in th e opened, som ifferent person. d a e m a c e b I e It was lik

2011 august/september_BUSANHAPS 15

HFeature

Unlike s a te ac h o m e of t h e p e ople re e r he re te ad in compa r tainment visa Korea — yo ing this inter view, yo ny and u are in . Y o u ’ve y you ma u nage to our gigs per f got your radio the countr y o are not orming s t a r te d n get into s an en h o w, yo ar b ac k h o t me or o he Korean ind ound the pen ur productio n ins us nce you Well, I’m got her tr y ? Was this ula. How did g as a tea oing to be hon e a ? p r o c es s ch es you and nig er just like mos t, I’m not calle d“ ht t fo

Pinnacle and pull figured ed mys reigners, but I T he Hu s ou elf out o w f a profe orked hard (an tler” for nothin short (re t a way to fund ’. I start d garding ssion th my true ed at I didn still do). I hustl ra current p ed, litera here ’t really radio sta dio), I compete assion by usin lly, day fe g my p a d in a c tion). Th me to d e l a p as ompetiti ssion. J o a wee on on a ust to m sion for, and I kly gues e producer of a year a that pro radio sh ake a lo t s p ot o nd mad gram lik ow on T n T he S ng story e hired m teve Ha ed how B S e FM e to Ellio it as strong as th I 101.3 (m e s rl ounde d I could. tt Ashby y Show. on a we y on air a During (my curr I worked ekend s th nd hired e how an receive d we wo nt co-host). Ev at period, I intr that guest spo d a pho t for ove o du c e d entually rked ha ne c inform m , Ellio r the p rd at e that w all from the sa me prod making it the b tt and I were off roducer that e’d bee on air s n taken even da ered a p ucer tha est we c off of th ys a we osition ould. Th Korean ek e weeke t initially hired artists, me, and en eventually, nd radio compan ! This, along w Korean I h it sh ies e was c h being entertain alling to in Korea ow... and that ment in and producers w n dustr y. e h m re a u v going to sic vide e help I’m prett o s, a be y anxiou ed me to carv e out m nd working wit s to see y h small nic where it will go fr h om here e in the .

Well, I’m g TheHus oing to be ho tle ne just like r” for nothin’. st, I’m not ca lled “Pi I starte most fo n d here still do r e i g n e as a te nacle ). I hus r s , b u t acher tled Iw myself out of a , literally, day orked hard (a nd and nig profess passio n for. ht and ion tha p t I didn ’t really ulled feel a

HEH

I w a s fa s Here w cinated with y e are t h our O ba ree de m are you ncy. Could yo years into th a theme song , u n ow r t hou g pen a r e first African “Yes, We Can a n d n ew ht s o n a .” A p t merican h o c e r a mor O ba lled g e ne ra l has ch e of the same ma presidenc , “Yes, We Did presiange d w ? y ?” hen vie Do you find yo thus far ? Ref What Honestl reshing we d f r o u y, I don r t a ke ’t s m ab ro great th ad thro on America in at we fin ee a “Yes, We a D u g h t he States, ll but glob y have a Black id” song comin media? ally. Th g any ti Presid for no

ent, b ere a me s part ford to ta icular reason a re still people th ut racism is sti oon from anyb t all. The o ll a ke care t w a n t re are sti to see th alive and well; dy. Yes, it’s of them Earth fig ll Ameri n selves. e ot just in hting to d e m ise and cans tha Howeve cre these pe the d r, thank ople. He ate some kind fully, the t are dying bec espair of others of balan c a n n ot tions an a re u s a e c re fi they can dh e in this x Ameri still wo ca’s pro c ’t afthan tha ope that he ha blems, re ra zy world. I th nderful people se t, on this ink that ally the America but this is a mu nough influenc O ba ma Preside e to swa sic interv has cert is one o nt c a n o y Congre ainly ch people iew, not f nly m s vie a n g e d. I’ve gain a political journ s (of course it’s ake suggesI will say w Americans th e d a be m a l e way th , that be o ri re g ht?). Als comple tter und in at they d a n A me x o, yes, ers o (both rican an g abroad has c my view in a pos tanding of how ertainly d as a b of it g lack ma a nd wh iv iv e e n a n m d e y n, and th n e certain a strong unders egative light). H many o tanding ty of wh of myse wever, o and w lf both a hat I a m s .

16 BUSANHAPS_august/september 2011

HUSTL E

HFeature

2011 august/september_BUSANHAPS 17

HNightlife NIGHT ON THE TOWN

LET’S PLAY By Brian Kilrain

Division 9 is a spacious new bar centered around drinking and playing games. They’ve got basketball, darts, trivia and real pinball machines. Great service, good drink prices and solid food. Great place for a party, or if you are just looking for a spot to hang out and meet new people on the weekend. Have you ever left work on a Friday thinking, “Hmmm, I’m feeling quite parched and a little stressed out. I wonder where in this city I might find a drink?” Yeah, neither have I. Korea certainly has no shortage of pubs, clubs and soju tents, so finding a cocktail is easier than finding a phony W50,000 bill on the street. However, with such a selection at your disposal, why settle for just-your-basic hole in the wall? Division 9, a brand new bar in Seomyeon, is definitely anything but that. At first glance, it isn’t anything different from what you might be accustomed to. The decor is modern with a large rectangular bar in the center of the room from which the easy-onthe-eyes bartenders perform casual flair shows. One entire wall is glass overlooking the bustling main strip of Seomyeon six floors below, and there is a variety of comfortable seating everywhere. Huge flatscreen TVs show that strange version of billiards in which someone forgot to put holes in the table. Yup, this seems to be just another slick Korean bar. But then you notice the far side of the room: An entire wall of dart machines. And what’s that in the corner? Is it... yes! A pinball machine! There is even a basketball arcade game and one of those touch screen games you always wanted to try at your hometown pub, if only the middle-aged barfly would have taken a break from it for a few minutes. This is basically Busan’s answer to the American chain restaurant, Chuck E. Cheese. If you aren’t familiar with Chuck E. Cheese, I challenge you to re-evaluate your childhood. Back in the day, the coolest thing your parents could do was take you to the place ‘Where a Kid Can Be a Kid.’ There were arcade games galore and all the pizza you could eat. The best part was trading in your tickets, acquired by your abundant 18 BUSANHAPS_august/september 2011

skee-ball skills, for a cheap plastic toy that would probably break by the time you got home. Division 9 is like Chuck E. Cheese for adults! Here, your arcade wizardry rewards you with things like free food, drinks and entire bottles of liquor. For example, if males make 150 points on the basketball shoot, they get a free beer. For some reason, it takes only 50 points if you’re a female (obviously the ownership has never heard of the WNBA). Score over 150,000,000 points on pinball, and that’s good for a bottle of Absolute Vodka. The same bottle can be won on a Friday or Saturday with 400 points in four rounds of darts. Amazing! And to keep the comparisons coming, Division 9 also features a diverse menu featuring some of the best pizza I’ve enjoyed in Korea. Also, try the chicken wrap and cream shrimp. The bar regularly offers random free rounds of shots to the crowd after midnight when it’s busy, and for the month of August, women showing up wearing sunglasses, hot pants, a high-top or a micro-skirt get a free shot of tequila. When asked why people should visit Division 9, manager Park Kang-Yoel summed it up quite well. “Yes, this is a bar. But rather than just getting drunk here, people can come and be entertained with all the games and the music,” he said. So there you have it: If you want to be entertained with something other than the usual Saturday night shenanigans, drop by Division 9. Division 9 is located in Seomyeon next to Foxy Nightclub on the 6th floor.

2011 june/july_BUSANHAPS 19

HSports

GARCIA SPEAKS r By Dustin Heffne lsey L. Smith Illustration by Ke

20 BUSANHAPS_august/september 2011

The Korean Baseball Organization allows two foreign players to each team. They tend to come and go with most staying no longer than a year. Karim Garcia stayed on for three years with the Lotte Giants before being released. A move many fans saw as a bad one.

is bat was deemed unnecessary, his rifle of an arm inconsequential. And with that, ex-Lotte Giant baseball All Star, Karim Garcia, was unceremoniously let go by the team after their first round playoff loss last fall. The Lotte Giants decided their high octane, league-leading offense would be just fine without Garcia, and focused on their pitching woes. In addition, with Garcia's biggest supporter, manager Jerry Royster, also being replaced, Garcia's fate was all but sealed and he headed back home to Mexico. "It really wasn't a surprise," Garcia, who has since returned to Korean baseball with Daejon-based club Hanwha, said of his dismissal. "We changed managers and the new manager wanted to bring in two foreign pitchers. He wanted his own guys. It really wasn't a big deal to me." Garcia’s release also came as no shock to the leagues first foreign manager, Jerry Royster. "It wasn't a surprise to me that Lotte didn't re-sign him,” he said. “They didn't want him back for a third year in 2010, much less 2011.” What the Lotte brain trust and first time big league manager, Yang Seung-ho failed to take into consideration was Garcia's intangibles. During Garcia's tenure manning right field for Lotte, he became one of the most beloved sports figures in Busan. His willingness and patience to please the public and promote the Lotte Giant brand was instrumental in the team’s rise in popularity, and the fact that they didn't re-sign Garcia caused a public relations backlash that was felt throughout the stands at Sajik Stadium. "Obviously he is still a great talent that could help any team in the KBO,” said Royster. “Karim's contributions to the KBO should be measured both on the field and in the stands. People pay to see him hit homers and make flashy catches, but he has shown the league the importance of player-fan interaction." Garcia also acknowledges the importance of fan interaction. "A lot of players do not like signing autographs and taking pictures," said Garcia. “I do it. I want to give back a little from what I have gotten from baseball. It is important for me to give back." Adding fuel to the ongoing fan-fire was Lotte's decision to recently release Garcia's foreign replacement, pitcher Brian Corey, after management completely misused him during the first half of the season.

Don't call it a comeback, I've been here before

was back – a faFast-forward to June of this year and #95 with the Hanwha d signe a Garci cloth. miliar face in different ready to inflict Eagles, and he returned to Korea like a storm damage. to the KBO and "Karim Garcia's much anticipated return " said Dan Kurtz, bang, a with out d starte June in ha Hanw who has covfounder of MyKBO.net based in Pittsburgh, few grand slams, ered the league for eight years. "He had a month with two a walk-off homerun, and he capped off the enough to earn was This SK. 3-run blasts in a game against " June. for s honor month the of r playe a Garci return to KoEx-teammates were also excited to see him rean baseball. the players "Garcia came back to Korea again, and both ho. "UnJangBae er reliev and fans feel happy," said Lotte Personally, to team. same the on not he's h, thoug ately fortun love it, too." be able to see him again is great, and the fans e experience for Playing against his old team was a strang

Garcia. dugout, but it was "At first, it was weird going to a different ." game first my for Busan in back be to great for me for Garcia, and the Lotte held a brief ceremony before the game that continues every fans welcomed him with a rousing ovation Sajik. at field time he steps on the he said. "It was very touching, sentimental. It was nice," but his power bit, a d coole has a Garci start g blazin After the has 35 RBIs and rs home 11 hit y numbers remain. He has alread . return his since bats at 117 in e signing with the For Garcia, who was playing in Mexico befor one. easy Eagles, the decision to return was an "I have unfinished "I wanted a second opportunit y," he said. business." ry mark in home The 35-year-old Garcia is nearing the centu ue to play procontin can he ul hopef is and runs hit in the KBO, g for grantnothin taking is he fessionally until he is 40. However, al. ssion profe a as n seaso 16th his in ed as he plays a time," said Garcia. "Obviously, you have to take it one year at " back. come to able be to ce produ to have "You

An era of persistence and resilience

When Garcia does eventually retire, his caree r might not be remembered as being textbook, but it will be remembered as an unconventional success from the start. Garcia was signed by the Los Angeles Dodg ers at the age of 16 and made his pro-debut in 1995 at 19, as the youngest player in the National League. Possessing power at the plate and an excellent arm in the outfield, Garci a had no shortage of suitors offering him the opportunit y to play, despite being plagued by inconsistency in his ten years in the MLB. "I am happy with the way my career has went, " he said recently. "It hasn't been perfect, but I have to take my mistakes and learn from them." After playing for seven teams in ten years, Garcia decided to give Asia a try, and played in Japan during the 2005- 06 season. After that, he made the move acros s the sea and joined Lotte. He has reinvented himself while in Asia, and quickly acclimated himself into the Asian way of life. Wher e other players before and after him have failed, he has flouris hed. "We all know how to play baseball,” Garcia said. ”You have to adapt to the game, but most impor tantly you have to adapt to the people and your team. I try to adapt as quickly as I can and have as much fun as I can." While Lotte may mourn the loss of his bat at the plate, his many fans are happy to see him playing on the peninsula again. 2011 august/september_BUSANHAPS 21

HFeature

A SMALL ROOF,

A WO R LD OF FI LM

By Thomas Bellmore

A 12-year era is ending â&#x20AC;&#x201D; but not for lon g.

With over 5,000 films in its ar chives and private viewing booths to watch them , Busan Cinematheque should keep you busy for awhile.

22 BUSANHAPS_august/september BUSANHAPS_june/july 2011 2011

HFeature

ty, next er front proper m the Haeundae wat of fro e er ur rn ct co ru st ay e view of its out-of-the-w th e, g ating ur in in sc ct m ru ob do st s an ium tower mpletely ob estled into ped in ark condomin , with trees co ee I’P ub st cl w is t r ne ch te e ya th ea e th of to th sight -year-old awe-inspiring quaint lit tle 12 world. For the road and the m all over the atheque. This fro em a in m C n ne e viewci sa t Bu the ete with privat independen the sk yline, is 0 films, compl them ar thouse, and 00 of c, 5, k si er un as cl ov ch of of od s e the richnes oks (with a go a video archiv bo is e of er ry th , ra ts lib ris as a a. ardent film pu itles, as well stor y of cinem r is a rusd English subt ing and the hi actual theate ak e m th d m ing booths an fil an of e, t id ar ts e ight find ou th e m e th on h) on on is h e $2 theaters being in Engl look like muc th t to no in ht ak ig much in h m f ng uc itsel without seei m of old, m The building ree decades, st yle auditoriu you find th ” at or se th o ou as tw dh r m fo rin tic lit tle “g been open t multiplex cine ve ar ha r tickech pe -th hi of on w ew a at ic ng you 12,0 00 far from the st in Nor th Amer gi is ar is ch que. r’ Th . he tte at ns novatio s’ or ‘Harry Po out the Cinem the way of re ‘Transformer level, ded to check r of ci pe de ns up io ve e rs ha th ve t n’ of fices on showing 3D at, you would with a set of in search of you wanted th modest staf f his computer a er et. Though if by ov n g ru in ur is e po Ho-jae sits g qu e un he Le at yo y dl nem The Cin ctor Heo Moo elf, a very frien ire its D e iv d u to enjoy ch fin yo ar r ht e ig m the shelf fo to come. In th where you m fro ns s io D ct DV le of se e film ousands the reels for th ll one of the th r, ready to pu at the counte t n’ booth. Just do at a viewing e gentleth ge ga en expect to out nversation ab man in a co se is h is gl s En movies, as hi ’ll be he d an d, verely limite of his catalogue quick to push s for your nd ha ur yo films into mnive: llow film colu about its arch perusal. A fe l, is re or W d this to say b ha stor y of film. co d hi e Ja an th , e t er qu ou gg he ist/blo ing myself ab t the Cinemat at ou uc ies (old and ab ed ov te lly m na ca io ge quite pass ys there, basi reign langua fo da e rs tir fe of en ly d nt en iste “I used to sp san that cons theater. ly place in Bu reened at the .” es itl bt It's also the on su h is duled to be sc gl e sumhe th En sc at ith s th w m ) g fil ry selection of e, considerin contempora e qu th he is at l, hcock. al em itc of in H C ntly self, Alfred scover the Most importa suspense him e present to di reening of th r sc e te a lik as e e m se e tim ’t th There is no indow’ won sic films from rienced in a iece ‘Rear W nsists of clas beg to be expe hock masterp mer lineup co itc at H th e s rit m Train’, fil vo g fa rsonal entertainin trangers on a Sadly, my pe ed include ‘S e are plenty of ock’s en er th re hc t sc itc bu H g , in e nd th be , this time arou e, of course ir era” entries ar no e ly we er ilm st th “f La s en k’ s’. oc d ‘The Bird rong Man’. Th theater. Hitchc or th by r’, ‘Psycho’, an ’, and ‘The W ‘N de bt , ur er ou M re D r a ca fo s of M k’ ‘Shadow t of Hitchcoc such as ‘Dial . If you haven’ tertaining film introduction ost purely en that need no ht have made” m ig a e m Ev th k d oc be an hc to nt lieve film Hitc Car y Gra have what I be as “the Bond e film starring e as hich doubles ot ted adventur see it at the Cinemathequ pl y kl is br d Nor thwest’, w an ato s, ty em ou ni in or C m rtu e hu th po ply s check out jump at the op seen this shar you can alway . f, suggest you I nd el its ha en le th on t, du e in Marie Sa reening sche ty of copies ar wonderful lit tle ible. For the sc e where plen tunately, this soon as poss or e front entranc nf th U to . is Festival ad th e he te or ite like th rnational Film theque websi es in Busan qu e Pusan Inte entum ac th C pl n y to he an te w m d ca ’t lo ce There aren was introdu ber, but will re ch em hi rtainly pt (w ce Se , st in on pa s n’s e its door only 5,00 0w relic of Busa year) will clos coupled a screening is nd , r fo co gs in se on en si its is re in m sc was only ember. Ad Hitchcock e through to th insegae in Nov itchcock. The on all the way City next to Sh es of Alfred H ue d lik in e an nt th rs r co fo d ba y e an to pa ay from th gan July 30th a small price ur at tention aw nema, ci e Chabrol, be yo e ud rt th la ve C of di n m fa so fro , with films n. If you’re a ly no excuse hile you still ca . There’s real check it out w end of August d an e tim s o hour the beer for tw ointment. om for disapp ff.kr there’s lit tle ro out cinema.bi 2011 august/september_BUSANHAPS 23 k ec ch n, io at rm fo in e or For m

y ere, basicall's th s y a d e r of film. It pend enti “I used to s yself about the histor yonsistently educating m place in Busan that c (old and also the onlyign language moviestles.” offers forear y) with English subti contempor

OUR FAVORITE

LOSE R"

Just Wrote a Book

By Steve Feldman

Photography: Mike Dixon Makeup Art ist Sun-ju Kim

HFeature the er: This will be a giant disclaim Chris Tharp . et’s start with iew rev ry ra jective lite d world’s least ob Busan Haps. An st contributors to fir , ok the bo of e w on ne s wa even IN his of mine. And I’m Korea. uth So in s ar he’s a dear friend Ye x the Peninsula: Si hy not feature Dispatches from is likely to be: W ism itic cr st ge my “good So my stron ? Af ter all, with gr y Steve fellow An d funny” s an thi rt of ma re “s mo ellect” (98), I am int most ng rci the pie of d taste an 1), and “one d a thinker” (28 finitely de I d An . nd (98), a “reader an ou ar instructors” (99) to “bang ever y respected English that I would like g yin sa er I admit I mb do not reme ers (75), though Giants cheerlead tte Lo the of e” on . this at some point It’s hard not probably thought to many of us. n ow kn ll we is ’s been jugHe is. Chris Tharp he t tion-whore tha en att , and acting him g ow itin to kn rock and roll, wr , dy me co s wellp -u gling stand here in 20 04. Hi since he landed gigs prett y much

th no tor, over thirty, broke, wi So there I was: a failed aceven shittier credit. I had taken to d girl, shitty prospects, ang white-belted hipsters on the streets spending my days dodginad school applications, and scouring of Olympia, poring over gra gig to lift me out of my funk. r the pages of Craigslist fo deserved nickname (acknowledg ed in the book) is Showbiz. Those who have followed his blog Homely Planet over the years, and more lately, various Facebook posts and even stand-up comedy bits, will reco gnize many of the vignettes in Dispatches from the Peninsul a. However, while his blog featured a Hunter S. Thompson-esq ue gonzo approach to reportage – wild, woozy and booz y – here, he tones down the frenzied prose in favor of a calm er, more measured, reflective voice as he looks back on the last six-plus years, and tries to make sense of it all. He delivers a book that succeeds along three fronts: he neatly encapsul ates the experiences many of us have had here in Korea, while also detailing a very unique, compelling, personal journey, and also while serving up an exotic travelogue for readers back home. Tharp’s book is loosely chronolo gical, starting naturally with his arrival as a newbie, riding an airport bus from the airport to Haeundae, mar veling at the “churches ever ywhere, each displaying its own garish cross, reminding you of Christ’s sacrifice with a burning, neon fervo r.” He quickly sketches out his pre-Korea background as a strug gling actor hitting his 30s with numbingly bleak prospects – a person who “fit the profile for an ESL teacher in many, man y ways”:

By 2004 I was back in my hometown of Olympia, staying with my parents—who were just entering into a long slide into ill health—and seriously contemplating borrowing frightening amounts of cash to finance a couple of years of graduate school. So there I was: a failed actor, over thirty, broke, with no girl, shitty prospects, and even shittier credit. I had taken to spending my days dodging white-belted hipsters on the streets of Olympia, poring over grad school applications, and scouring the pages of Craigslist for a gig to lift me out of my funk.

Tharp unabashedly embraces the expat ESL teacher cliché of the “loser” who can’t get a real job back home. He admits that for many, coming to Korea is like being “handed a magic bag containing a brand new life . . . When you’re over 30 and broke back home, coming to teach in Asia can be a sort of paradise.” And what of the chronic complainers? Tharp concludes that “most of the people who come to Korea and hate it are just people whose lives haven’t sucked enough back at home yet.” With hardly a chance to catch his breath and get over his jet-lag, Tharp gets thrown into the maw of the hogwon monster, and it’s here that the book produces the first of many high points. His descriptions of super-cute-yet-super-evil Korean demon children are often riotous, especially when they gleefully describe the sadistic ways they plan to kill their respected sonsaengnim, e.g., dropping him into a dynamite-filled volcano, slicing him (and his spirit) into ribbons with swords, feeding him to bears, snakes, lions, or “Aprika” natives who boil him in a pot and eat “Chris-gogi.” 2011 august/september_BUSANHAPS 25

HFeature

There’s plenty of soju-soaked revelry in the country that Tharp dubs “Disneyland for alcoholics”. Beyond the visceral joys and terrors of “morn ing kindy,” Tharp expands his scope to provide sharp insight about the whole Korean English-education system and native ESL teach ers’ roles in it. Tharp has taught at many levels, from hogwons to the universities to the junior colleges, and he nails it on the lack of communication between foreign teachers and Korean admin istrators, the lack of real standards, the profit-first motives of many hogwons, and the whole English-monkey charade that teaching can become, despite one’s best efforts and intentions. As in any story, Dispatches works best when conflict and emotion peak. In the chapter “Don’t Bite the Hand that Provides the VISA,” he gives a blow-by-blow account of the epic Babopalooza fiasco, in which he and several others (including myse lf) were arrested and nearly depor ted for performing a sketch-com edy show. Tharp provides a view of Korea that (thank fully) not many people are afforded – the criminal justice system, the rancidly biased news media, and Koreans prickly sensitivity to criticism-from-a broad. of The most affecting moments come when Tharp faces the deaths these both his parents, less than a year apart, while in Korea. It’s in with chapters that the book really comes into its own. He captures awdiamond-hard clarity the dread of the emergency phone call, the the ng witnessi of majesty brutal the and home, back rush ful blurring roiling passing of his father and mother. Tharp deftly sifts through his cliché emotions – guilt, anger, grief, relief – avoiding the minefields of book the anchor scenes nal exceptio These and triteness all the way. and provide its strongest narrative thread and emotional core. Fans of (and co-participants in) Tharp’s more hedonistic exploits won’t be disappointed by Dispatches from the Peninsula. There’s “Displenty of soju-soaked revelry in the country that Tharp dubs like rs hangove and binges s describe Tharp neyland for alcoholics”. are Cormac McCarthy describes sunsets – very colorfully, and no two ever alike. Whether he’s in Jagalchi market eating grilled eel, down at “The Crown” (i.e., O’Brien’s), or out in the wilds of Jirisan, Tharp can throw it back with the best of them and write about it with rollicking ease. Actually, I suspect the persona Tharp crafts for himself will present readers with a personal Rorschach test. Some haters inevitably will only see a teetering booze-hound fleeing personal failure back home to live out an endless college sophomore’s fantasy of exotic, willowy Asian beauties, barbecued pork and epic piss-ups. I expect the expat blogosphere to go totally berserk with such accusations. (A little controversy is always good for sales, eh?) Yet this book is far, far from a Korean version of Off the Rails in Phnom Penh, the ur-text of expat scumbaggery and fuckwittedness. Tharp’s 2004 arrival places him roughly in the second wave of native teachers, just as most of the first wave of freaks and nutters were being weeded out. (He devotes a chapter to one of these, the thuggish “Aussie Mack,” whom I recall with a shudder.) He writes about dating Korean women with care and respect (though not without humor), and any criticism of 26 BUSANHAPS_august/september 2011

HFeature his adopted ho me is carefully siderate of hi nuanced, bala s own biased nced, and co nAmerican pe looking for co rspective. Re ntroversy will aders have to look I think more hard. readers will se e the more co Tharp that I an mplicated Chr d many othe rs here in Bu is – an ex troverte san know an d performer d love and pure reve keenly introsp le r, ective and an yes, but also alytical thinke a classroom (e r. A natural in specially with the children), and minded adve a resolutely op nturer who th rows himself enwith joy and into new expe passion – th riences is, I believe is will, or shou what most re ld, see. As W aders alt Whitman contain multit reminds us, udes within us we all . Tharp embr yammering co aces all of hi ntradictor y se s own lves with bree tion and serio zy self-deprec us reflection in aju so, he makes st the right ba Dispatches fro lance. In doin g m the Penins engaging, en tertaining and ula a thorough illuminating ad ly writing canon. di tio Now if I can on n to the trave l ly get him star to-be-brillian t sequel: The ted on the su Trials of Angr rey Steve . . .

Som e a tee haters in ev te pers ring boo itably wi on ll o ze out a al failure -hound f nly see le n b fanta endless ack hom eing co e sy beau of exot llege so to live ic, ph t ie piss- s, barbe willow y omore’s As ups. cued pork ian a nd epic

2011 august/september_BUSANHAPS 2011 june/july_BUSANHAPS 27 17

HArts

PEOPLE FOR THE

By Britt Kee Irvin Translation by Min Ja Ko

Oncheonjeong subway On the 1 km stretch heading north from theffiti. Artist, Britt Kee Irvin, station, you can see the best in Korean gra wall. talked to some of the artists living on the

s a former resident artist at Agit Indie Space in Busan, I have been fortunate to meet some extremely talented graffiti ‘writers.’ This is the title by which they are known in Korea, where a subculture of dedicated writers has existed for over 20 years. Korean street art is quite unique when compared to other graffiti cultures around the world. It was originally imported from America and Japan before taking its own route, and while it is relatively violence-free, writers usually experience little in the way of repercussions from law enforcement. It is even encouraged in designated places, such as the almost 1 km stretch of walls that runs along the river from the Oncheonjeong subway station to well past the PNU subway station. A long running member of the graffiti culture known as ‘Hudini’ traces his interest in graffiti to American popular culture. “I have been doing graffiti since 1998. American movies inspired me to paint. In 1998, there was practically no graffiti in Korea,” he said. Fellow writer, Junkhouse, who started in 2004, says the outside influence is there, now with a Korean flavor. “Most of the early graffiti started with the old school American

style, because many of the artists loved hip hop music and culture. Now it is changing to Korean typography and Korean style painting.” Perhaps the most stark difference between American graffiti and Korean graffiti is not the art itself, but the viewing public. In Korea, the citizenry is much more receptive of public art created by citizens. But not everyone, says Junkhouse. “When I am out painting and people are yelling or asking me what I am doing, I try to explain so they will understand. But most people have positive reactions. An elementary student once showed me interesting places to paint. If I am

Perhaps the most stark difference between American graffiti and Korean graffiti is not the art itself but the viewing public. In Korea, the citizenry is much more receptive of public art created by citizens.

28 BUSANHAPS_august/september 2011

in an abandoned area, construction workers have helped me, too. They have even let me know places that will be destroyed soon, so I can paint there,” he explained. According to Hudini, the government looks the other way. “The Korean government does not think it is a social or community problem. When I ﬁnish the work, the police ask me if I will please paint over it.”

ht: From left to rig ts tis ar ti Graffi use Kay 2, Junkho i in ud H d an

W E I V R E T N I 2 KAY uenced expansive and more infl in Busan. His works are ned le has ow sty ren his st e, mo tim rt the far range of color. In a sho for six years, Kay 2 is by his tagging, and a wide of st Though only into graffiti mo for ts trai por s photo-based by traditional art. He use self wanting to do art ervers alike. sity years. He found him ionados and casual obs afic by n ntio atte ed act tructor during his univer attr ins ckly taken with the art qui s ool wa sch he h and hig a ic, rking as ially expressive dynam soc re mo He was a painter ﬁrst, wo its h wit in him roach. Graffiti drew with a more activist app it. ng ndi rou sur ture subcul

re socially conin Korea seems mo Haps: The graffit i or quest ions of ce len vio by ed round scious and less sur reans feel? tur f. How do most Ko g-related or simply graffiti was either gan In the area I grew up, with it came a ghborhood teens, and nonsense put up by nei as are still like are me So . nity mu com negative impact on the at times illegal rested in outdoors, and that. Writers are inte not important ply as territorial — it’s sim work art, but it is not Many Korean tor. fac ant ort are an imp to us. The social issues with the In000 9-2 graffiti around 199 writers started doing ces to inspire our res the us ing giv par t ternet playing a large and create. art ists inﬂuence and Chinese graffit i Haps: Do Japanese you? and Japan. Ameris different from China I think Korean graffiti erica, and sees a . Someone goes to Am ica is more influential not that familiar am I . ilar sim something style, and returns with y good and is ver is i ffit but Japanese gra ut culture; with Chinese graffiti, abo re America, graffiti is mo rea is difsimilar to America’s. In Ko t. pec res you s and that get culture. bombing, illegal work, the not the image created and ferent, it is only about

KAY 2 INTERVIEW CONTD.

Haps: Have you ever been arrested or fined for your work? Sometimes I make some risky art, but haven’t had any trouble. There is not a lot of graffiti in Korea, so it goes unnoticed and unpunished. One person was put in jail, but I don’t think he is an artist, I think he is more of an activist. He made a stencil in a similar style to (UK artist) Bansky and released it during the G20 in Seoul. He had to pay 2 million won in fines because he painted a mouse like Bansky with the mouse depicting the Korean people and saying, ‘F**king G20.’ Haps: What is the most important thing you are trying to say with your work? I think art plays a role in the daily lives of people and it is a way to talk about things that are important. I want people to see things differently in their everyday lives, the street they live on, their life reflected. I make a change to the environment, and I hope they can take a fresh look at life.

Self-portrait by Kay 2

30 BUSANHAPS_august/september 2011

HNightlife NIGHT ON THE TOWN

HITS THE SPOT

By Jen Sotham

With over 25 years of family history running pubs and restaurants in the Seomyeon area, Go Sung-oon and his younger brother Go Ji-oon, know how to keep their customers happy.

T HOOT SP

n late June, I was invited to play a gig at what was referred to me as “this awesome new place” in Seomyeon. The amount of times I’ve heard that phrase misused has taught me not to get my hopes up until I’ve seen it myself. When I first walked into The Spot, I barely noticed the sleek design, the expansive space, the beautiful, well-equipped stage, the full-sized pool table, or even the group of my friends planted on the comfy couches along the wall. I was instead preoccupied by a distinctive aroma, one that I wouldn’t normally associate with my time in Korea. My friends later told me that as I set my guitar down, I resembled a hound dog, tracking the scent of caramelized onions to their source – an incredible looking Philly Cheese Steak. I marched up to the bar – not to order a drink, but to ask, “Who cooked that food right there?” I was directed into the small kitchen to discover an acquaintance, Scott Newman (who, of course, I had assumed was an English teacher) plating a tantalizing trio of beef empanadas with a chili lime sauce. Scott told me that after visiting some friends in Busan in 2008, he fell in love with the city, returned to Canada to attend culinary school, and then came back to Busan on a tourist visa, hoping to find work as a chef. Go Sung-Oon, known to his friends as Gossi, and his younger brother, Go Ji-Oon (‘Little Gossi’), were no strangers to the service industry when they set out to open The Spot. Their parents have had restaurants and pubs in Seomyeon for twenty-five years, and currently own a successful samgyupsal restaurant just across the street from The Spot. Since the neighborhood underwent its transformation from industrial center to restaurant hub about ten years ago, it has become a go-to for Korean food, particularly barbecue. Yet Sung-Oon and Ji-Oon had no interest in opening a Korean restaurant, partly because the market was too saturated, and partly because they wanted to challenge themselves to open an establishment that was genuinely unique to Busan. Though neither brother has spent time abroad, they were determined to open a proper ‘western style’ lounge, a place where Koreans and foreigners could intermingle. Gossi turned to his many waygookin friends for advice, and came up with a list of priorities: atmosphere, comfort, live music, good service and, above all, outstanding food. It was getting the last part right that Gossi thought might be tricky. As fortune would have it, Gossi and Scott (who were already acquaintances) were hanging out 32 BUSANHAPS_august/september 2011

one night when a mutual friend, Seth Tarter, made that fateful connection. Despite that Scott and Gossi, both 28, were raised in extremely different cultures on opposite sides of the planet, it became increasingly clear during our chat that these two young men have more in common than their age. As I alternated between bites of the delectable chicken and roasted pepper pizza with garlic Parmesan sauce and divine homemade shrimp and crab stuffed tortellini in a white wine crème sauce with a touch of mint, I learned that Scott had been training Gossi in the kitchen to prepare for his month long trip home to Canada. When asked if he was nervous about replicating Scott’s recipes during his absence, Gossi shook his head and smiled. “Not at all. Scott has taught me well. Also, we don’t use any frozen food, and we don’t have a microwave in the kitchen. We use only fresh ingredients from Bujeon Market and from Costco. It’s not cheap – but it’s the best quality. That’s all that matters.” As I shoved the last bite of a scrumptious pork and beef slider into my mouth, I listened as the young men talked excitedly about future plans for The Spot, finishing each other’s sentences, obviously pumped that their mutual vision is coming to fruition. Gossi would eventually like to have nightly events, with live music playing a central role in The Spot’s allure. Scott is planning to slightly revamp the menu in the fall, with rotating pasta specials. Of his hopes for his culinary endeavors, Newman said, “I hope that people don’t only think of The Spot as a place to go out and drink and order some bar food as an afterthought. I’d rather them think of it as a place to have a solid, sit-down dinner and then stay for drinks.” With the help of Joshua Kim, a Busan native who was raised in Chicago and Geun-yeon Kim, who has been a friendly fixture on the Busan bar scene, the team is working hard to ensure chill ambiance, quality offerings and affable service – not to mention KILLER mojitos! If The Spot stays on its current trajectory, there’s no doubt that it will amass a loyal customer base. And count me in! I’m already cursing them for the pounds I’m going to gain there. Check out The Spot: www.busanhaps.com/food/the-spot

HNightlife

BILLIE JEAN By Tory Mock Billie Jean is a stylish new pub in Haeundae with live music, pool, darts and great food. The kitchen is run by the same manager who cooked Haps Best Hamburger in Busan 2010.

NIGHT ON THE TOWN

illie Jean is not my lover. It’s just a bar that says that I should have fun. And I did – famously – until I moonwalked (staggered) my way back home. There are several things I look for in a bar and Billie Jean touches upon nearly all of them. The atmosphere is cozy, brick and varnished wood walls hung with sparse light, the music set at just the right volume so I can carry a conversation, a good burger and a steak, a regulation-size pool table, darts and live music on the weekends. The bar was opened in early May by a couple of guys that many of us around Busan and the world already know. One is movie star Dae-han Ji, most famous for his role as Oh Dae-su’s best friend in the internationally acclaimed film “Old Boy.” Don’t be surprised if you step into Billie Jean one night and see him behind the bar serving drinks when he is not on location filming. The other owner is Dany Kang, founder of several bars around Haeundae such as Starface and Neo. Dany said he left a lucrative job in real estate to go into the bar business simply for the fun of it. “I like to party and enjoy new friends,” the long shaggyhaired Dany says with his characteristically friendly smile. “Once I started doing it, I fell in love with the business.” Dae-han was Dany’s friend in high school, and when Dany approached him about opening a bar together he jumped at the idea. And let’s be honest, there are advantages to having a movie star friend – especially when you co-own a bar together. On any night, you never know which Korean celebrity might saddle up next to you and order a drink from the expansive menu. 34 BUSANHAPS_august/september 2011

While most people expect to pay more for everything near the beach, the prices at Billie Jean are quite reasonable. A draft will run you $4 and a premium beer about $7. If you really want to impress your friends, you could throw down $450 for a bottle of Dom Perignon if that suits you. There is also a good assortment of pub food, including a solid $12 cheeseburger, or a very large steak served with green beans and french fries for $15. If music is your scene, you don’t want to miss the live shows on the weekend. Dany knows everyone around town and, as a long time supporter of the music scene, he prides himself on bringing in different acts from Busan’s diverse music talent every weekend. “At my last bar, we went three months without having the same band on stage for a weekend show,” he says. Most recently, at the Haps Issue 14 launch party, Dany managed to book Second Hand Rose, one of China’s top acts, to play for the event. Last year, the band was so well-liked by Irish rockers, U2, that they asked them to open for them in China on their next tour. While all the talk about Billie Jean to this point has been about what goes on inside, the outside deserves a mention. The seating is great when the weather is good. And with the smell of Billie Jean’s BBQ in the air and the smell of the sea – only 100 meters away – this newly opened bar is well worth a visit. Getting there: With the Paradise Hotel at your back, head away from the sea on the right fork road. It’s about 75 meters up on your right, just before the intersection. www.busanhaps.com/billiejean

DONGHA

Restaurant Guide Guide to Restaurants ₩ - Meals Under ₩10,000 ₩₩ - Meals are Reasonably Priced ₩₩₩ - Be prepared to spend some cash 3 - Smoking area is available Busan Haps recommended restaurant

FOO

D IS GOO D

VIS ILL FOR IT B H MO USA UN N RE G FOO HAP RY D L S.CO ? IST IN M GS

Gwangan-li Western

Beached Cafe and Sports Bar 051-924-9662 ₩ busanhaps.com/nightlife/beached-cafe-sports-bar Breeze Burns 051-754-4670 ₩₩ www.busanhaps.com/food/breeze-burns Burger and Pasta 051-751-6631 ₩₩3 busanhaps.com/food/burger-and-pasta-gwangan Guess Who Restaurant 051-757-1213 ₩₩3 busanhaps.com/food/guess-who-restaurant

Italian

Pasta e Vino 051-746-2500 ₩₩ busanhaps.com/food/pasta-e-vino

Korean

Cusco 051-624-0990 ₩✔ busanhaps.com/food/cusco Shim Hae Raw Fish Restaurant 051-753-6868 ₩₩ Fam Island Sushi Buffet 051-751-6100 ₩₩ www.famisland.com Four Season Raw Fish ₩₩ busanhaps.com/food/four-season-raw-fish Korean Natural Food 051-751-5534 ₩₩ busanhaps.com/food/korean-natural-food Millak Raw Fish Center 051-757-3000 ₩₩ Sujeonggung Sea Food Restaurant 051-753-2811 ₩₩ www.waterstone.co.kr

Japanese

Sinshen 051-627-9191 ₩ Ginza 051-751-7077 ₩₩₩

Mexican

Fuzzy Navel 051-754-6349 ₩₩✔ www.fuzzynavel.co.kr

Vietnamese

Saigon Pho ₩₩ busanhaps.com/food/saigon-“pho” 36 BUSANHAPS_august/september 2011

Kyungsungdae Western

Aussie Burger ₩ busanhaps.com/food/aussie-burger Burger and Pasta 051-625-6651 ₩✔ busanhaps.com/food/burger-pasta-kyungsung Eva’s 051-628-5653 ₩✔ busanhaps.com/food/eva’s HQ Bar 010-2857-2367 ₩✔ busanhaps.com/food/hq-bar Painted Chair Cafe 051-611-3666 ₩ busanhaps.com/food/painted-chair-cafe The Coffee Pot ₩ busanhaps.com/food/coffee-pot

Chinese

Ni Hao Chinese ₩ busanhaps.com/food/ni-hao-chinese

Indian

Shabana 051-621-4821 ₩₩ www.busanindiancurry.info

Italian

Bon Bon 051-621-0906 ₩₩

Korean

Baekdu ₩₩ busanhaps.com/food/baekdu Eu Dae Di ₩₩ busanhaps.com/food/eu-dae-di Maesaengiga 051-622-0611 ₩₩ busanhaps.com/food/maesaengiga Naraso ₩₩ busanhaps.com/food/naraso

Japanese

Chibi Chibi Oknomayaki 051-904-8257 ₩₩ town.cyworld.com/chibichibi The Sushi 051-611-4043 ₩₩

Turkish

Aile Mediterranean 070-8234-6962 ₩₩

Seomyeon Western

Breeze Burns 051-818-4670 ₩₩ www.busanhaps.com/food/breeze-burns Fuzzy Navel 051-746-6439 ₩₩✔ www.fuzzynavel.co.kr Judie Nine Brau 051-667-7979 ₩₩✔ www.busanhaps.com/food/judie-nine-brau T.G.I. Friday’s 051-805-3164 ₩₩ www.tgif.co.kr The Pancake ₩ www.busanhaps.com/food/pancake

Italian

Buona Oven Pizza ₩₩ 051-904-8239 Florian’s ₩₩ www.busanhaps.com/food/florian

Korean

Buffalo Chicken 051-805-3512 ₩₩✔ www.busanhaps.com/food/buffalo-chicken Dragon Dream (The Cave Bar) 051-646-5924 ₩₩ www.busanhaps.com/food/dragon-dream-cave-bar Golm Ok ₩₩✔ www.busanhaps.com/food/golm-ok

Vegetarian

Loving Hut 051-808-7718 ₩₩ www.lovinghut.kr

PNU Western

Farmers Burgers ₩ www.busanhaps.com/food/farmers-burgers

Indian

Ganesh ₩₩ www.busanhaps.com/food/ganesh

Shabana 051-517-1947 ₩₩ www.busanindiancurry.info

Mexican

Taco’s Family 010-5688-6303 ₩ www.busanhaps.com/food/taco’s-family

Turkish

Kebabistan ₩₩ www.busanhaps.com/food/kebabistan

Vietnamese

Pho ₩ www.busanhaps.com/food/pho

Vegetarian

Loving Hut 051-518-0115 ₩ www.lovinghut.kr

Haeundae Western

Breeze Burns 051-747-4670 ₩₩ www.busanhaps.com/food/breeze-burns Geckos Bar and Grill 051-747-3069 ₩₩✔ geckosterrace.com HQ Jangsan 010-2857-2367 ₩✔ www.busanhaps.com/food/hq-bar Morning Glory ₩₩ Sharky’s 010-4038-2907 ₩✔ www.busanhaps.com/food/sharkys-bar-and-grill Starface 051-742-0600 ₩✔ www.busanhaps.com/food/starface-dalmaji T.G.I. Friday’s 051-740-6531 ₩₩ www.tgif.co.kr The Wolfhound Pub 051-746-7913 ₩₩✔ www.wolfhoundpub.com

Indian

Ganesh ₩ www.busanhaps.com/food/ganesh-indian Ganga 051-740-6670 ₩₩₩ www.ganga.co.kr/en/main.html Namaste 051-746-1946 ₩₩ namasterestaurant.co.kr

Italian

Bella Cita 051-747-6351 ₩₩ www.bellacita.co.kr Cine De Chef 051-745-2880 ₩₩₩ www.shinsegae.com/store/restaurant El Olive Italian 051-752-7300 ₩₩₩ www.elolive.co.kr Il Sole 051-7474523 ₩₩₩ ilsole.drupalgardens.com Van Gogh Terrace 051-741-3767 ₩₩ www.vangoghs-terrace.co.kr/

Japanese

Gen Sushi 051-740-6630 ₩₩ www.겐스시.com Hotaru 051-703-4692 ₩₩ Suntory Japanese 051-742-5788 ₩₩ www.busanhaps.com/food/suntory-japanese Umi 051-741-4337 ₩₩₩

Korean

An Ga Korean BBQ 051-742-7852 ₩₩ www.busanhaps.com/food/ga-korean-bbq Cheolma Hanwoo Bulgogi 051-709-4000 ₩₩₩

Drunken Shrimp 051-747-9334 ₩₩✔ www.busanhaps.com/food/drunken-shrimp Hurgsiru 051-722-1377 ₩₩ www.hurgsiru.co.kr Jagalchi Eel 051-742-5387 ₩₩ www.busanhaps.com/food/jagalchi-eel Maris 051-704-8870 Somunnan 051-746-0003 ₩₩ www.busanhaps.com/food/somunnan-beef-rib

Mexican

Fuzzy Navel 051-746-6439 ₩₩✔ www.fuzzynavel.co.kr Hello Kimchi 051-701-5199 ₩ www.busanhaps.com/food/hello-kimchi-mexican Taco El Puebla 051-747-6003 ₩ www.busanhaps.com/food/taco-al-puebla Taco Senora 051-744-4050 ₩ www.busanhaps.com/food/taco-senora

Thai

Mr. Pizza - 1577-0077 www.mrpizza.co.kr Pizza Etang - 1688-3651 www.pizzaetang.com

Family Restaurants Outback Steakhouse - 1577-0500 (10 locations) www.outback.co.kr T.G.I. Friday’s - 1588-2590 (4 locations) www.tgif.co.kr VIPS - 1577-0700 (7 locations) www.ivips.co.kr

Vegetarian

RECOMMENDED RESTAURANT

Vietnamese

NAMASTE

Hello Thai 051-731-5033 ₩₩ Loving Hut 051-747-2979 ₩₩ www.lovinghut.kr Pho Kim 051-740-4868 ₩ www.busanhaps.com/food/pho-kim

Fast Food McDonalds - 1600-5252 (30 locations in Busan) www.mcdonalds.co.kr Lotteria - 1600-9999 www.lotteria.com Burger King- No delivery (7 locations in Busan) www.burgerking.co.kr Popeye’s Chicken - No delivery (10 locations in Busan) www.popeyes.co.kr KFC - No delivery (7 locations in Busan) www.kfckorea.com Quiznos - No delivery (4 locations in Busan) www.quiznos.co.kr Dunkin Donuts - No delivery (45 locations in Busan) www.dunkindonuts.co.kr Mister Donut - No delivery (5 locations in Busan) misterdonut.gsretail.com Baskin Robbins - No delivery (66 locations in Busan) www.baskinrobbins.co.kr

Just a short walk from Haeundae Beach, Namaste offers a wide variety of delicious Indian cuisine at affordable prices. Samosas, naan, tandoori chicken and plenty of curries are on the menu, but if you’re worried about the heat, don’t be – they can adjust the spice from as tame to as hot as you like. 051-746-1946 www.namasterestaurant.co.kr ₩₩

Pizza Dominos - 1577-3082 www.dominos.co.kr Papa John’s - 1577-8080 www.pji.co.kr Pizza Hut - 1588-5588 www.pizzahut.co.kr 2011 august/september_BUSANHAPS 25

Hotel Guide Haeundae Haeundae The Westin Chosun Do it right and crash in the same room George W. Bush did. 82-51-749-7000 www.starwoodhotels.com

Paradise Hotel On the water, with a casino, excellent spa and a pool. 82-51-742 2121 www.paradisehotel.co.kr

Seacloud Hotel Luxury stay, with great restaurants. Short walk to the beach. 82-51-933-1000 www.seacloudhotel.com

Haeundae Centum Hotel Near Shinsegae and BEXCO. Good subway access. 82-51-720-9000 www.centumhotel.co.kr

Sunset Hotel 72 rooms with, according to the site, “individual design concepts.” 82-51-730-9900 www.sunsethotel.co.kr

Novotel Ambassador On the beach. Great ocean view, Murpii Nightclub. 8251-743-1234 www.novotelbusan.com

Business and Beach Hotel Located in central Haeundae, with easy access to the local historical sites. 82-51-742-3219 www.bnbhotel.co.kr

Other Areas Other Areas Lotte Hotel (Seomyeon) Lotte runs a tight ship and it shows in the generous customer service here. 82-51-810-1000 www.lottehotelbusan.com Toyoko Inn (Seomyeon) Across from Migliore, comfortable, clean and affordable. 82-51-442-1045 www.toyoko-inn.com

Crown Hotel (Seomyeon) Mid-range hotel decorated in Korean style, good for travellers. 82-51-635-1241 www.fnetravel.com/english/ pusanhotels/crown.html

Hotel Nong Shim (Oncheonjeong) Great area around the hotel, head north to PNU for original Busan nightlife. 82-51-550-2100 www.hotelnongshim.com

Homers Hotel (Gwangan)

One of the cheaper spots on the strip, but still at the beach. 82-51-740-0610 www.grandhotel.co.kr

Right on Gwangan beach amdist the myriad of cafes, bars and restaurants. 8251-750-8000 www.homershotel.com

Hotel Illua Dalmaji Hill

Aqua Palace (Gwangan)

Grand Hotel

Lovely hotel with stunning views from its perch on Dalmaji Hill. 82-51-744-1331 www.hotelillua.com

Hanwha Resort Beautiful views of Oryukdo, the bridge and close to the beach. 82-1588-2299 www.hanwharesort.co.kr

Busan Youth Hostel Arpina Opened in 2004, a cheap place to stay for the night. Culture center inside. 8251-731-9800 www.arpina.co.kr 38 BUSANHAPS_august/september 2011

Beautiful view of the Diamond Bridge, right in the middle of the beach. 82-51756-0202 www.aquapalace.co.kr

Commodore Hotel (Jung-gu) Beautifully designed traditional hotel. Close proximity to Busan Station. 82-51461-9703 www.commodore.co.kr

Busan Tourist Hotel (Jung-gu) Conveniently located next to the train station. Good

for a cheap night’s rest. 8251-241-4301 www.pusanhotel.co.kr

Toyoko Inn (Jung-gu) Affordably priced hotel, clean and 10 minutes away from the train station. 8251-442-1045 www.toyoko-inn.com

Phoenix Hotel (Jung-gu) Highly trained staff, close to Nampodong. Popular with Japanese tourists. 82-51245-8061 www.hotelphoenix.net Elysee Hotel (Jung-gu) Affordable hotel with good amenities. Close to Nampodong. 82-51-2414008 www.elyseemotel.com

Gukje Hotel (Busan Station) About 3 km away from the train station, close to Citizen’s Hall. 82-51-642-1330 www.hotelkukje.com

Toyoko Inn (Busan Station) The second location, this one is a minute away from the train station. 82-51-4421045 www.toyoko-inn.com

Paragon Hotel (Sasang-gu) Business comfort, with close proximity to Gimhae International Airport. 82-51328-2001 www.hotelparagon.com/

Indy House (Kyungsung University) Super cheap, dorm-style room right in the heart of Kyungsung. 82-70-86156442

Busan Central Hotel (Yeonsan-dong) Adjacent to Yeonsan rotary, located 10 minutes away from City Hall. 82-51- 8666225 www.centralhotel.co.kr

Bar Guide Kyungsungdae Almost Famous www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/almost-famous Blue Monkey www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/blue-monkey Cafe Radio www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/cafe-radio Club Fabric www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/club-fabric Dugout Bar www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/dugout Fully Booked www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/fullybooked Ghetto www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ghetto HQ Bar www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/hq-bar Kino Eye www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/kino-eye Long. T Bar www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/long-t-bar Monk’s Jazz Club www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/monks-jazz-club Ol’55 www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ol’55 Painted Chair Cafe www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/painted-chair-cafe The New Foxy www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/new-foxy Vinyl Underground www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/vinyl Zip Code www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/zip-code

Haeundae 247 Lounge www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/247-lounge Billie Jean www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/billie-jean Club Elune www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/club-elune Drunken Shrimp Bar www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/drunken-shrimp-bar Fuzzy Navel www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/fuzzy-navel Geckos www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/geckos-bar-and-grill HQ Jangsan 010-2857-2367 www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/hq-bar-jangsan Maktum www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/maktum Miami 88 www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/miami-88-no1 Murpii www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/murpii-bar Rock n’ Roll House www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/rock-n-roll-house Sharky’s www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/sharkys-bar

Starface www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/starface Suntory Japanese www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/suntory-japanese The Wolfhound Pub www.wolfhoundpub.com Thursday Party www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/thursday-party U2 Bar www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/u2-bar

Gwanang-li Beach Bikini www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/beach-bikini Beached Cafe and Sports Bar www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/beached-cafesports-bar Club 3f www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/club-3f Enoch Mansion www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/enoch-mansion Fuzzy Navel www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/fuzzy-navel-1 Holloway Road Party Pub www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/holloway-roadparty-pub Luna Bass www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/lunabass Paris www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/paris Thursday Party www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/thursday-party-0 WA Bar www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/wa-bar

PNU Crossroads www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/crossroads Interplay www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/interplay Monks www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/monks Red Bottle www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/red-bottle Soultrane www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/soultrane The Basement www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/basement

Seomyeon Division 9 www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/division9 Foxy www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/foxy-seomyeon

Fuzzy Navel www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/fuzzy-navel-0 Judie Nine Brau www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/judie-nine-brau Metal City www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/metal-city Rock n’ Roll Bar www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/rock-n-roll-bar The Old Record Bar www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/old-record-bar The Spot www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/thespot Thursday Party www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/thursday-party-1 Have a listing? Contact busanhaps@gmail.com

Directory & Assistance Busan Global Center 1577-7716 Tourist Info in English, Japanese & Chinese 1330 Gimhae Airport Tourist Information Center – International 82-51-973-2800 Gimhae Airport Tourist Information Center – Domestic 82-51-973-4607 Busan Station Tourist Information Center 82-51-441-6565 International Ferry Terminal Tourist Information Center 82-51-465-3471

Radio (English eFM) FM 90.5

2011 august/september_BUSANHAPS 39

RECOMMENDED HOTEL

NOVOTEL AMBASSADOR Perfectly situated on the beach among some of Haeundae’s best scenery and nightlife, the Novotel Ambassador offers everything you need all in one choice location. Rooms come with high-speed Internet service and great views on the sea-side of the hotel. There is a well-equipped gym, as well as an indoor swimming pool if the weather is not right for the beach. If you need to work off the stress of a hard day’s work or play, you can get a traditional Thai massage, or hit the screen golf links with automated tee-up and a putting green. There are several good restaurants in the hotel, but we recommend ‘Chopsticks & Pizza,’ where you can enjoy some great Italian food and varied noodle dishes from around the world until midnight, seven days a week. After dinner, you can relax in the Classic Library, stroll through Gana Art Gallery, or have a few glasses of wine in the Wine Cave. If you are looking for something late in the evening, there’s Club Murpii, where you can get your groove on to some good tunes before tucking yourself into bed. Novotel Ambassador, Haeundae Tel: 82-51-743-1234, www.novotelbusan.com

40 BUSANHAPS_august/september 2011

42 BUSANHAPS_august/september 2011

HLastWord

: N O P R A TH i ng

k n i Dr

When coming to Korea, you are struck by the contradictions that slap you in face on a daily basis: strangers politely bow to each other, yet spit, jostle, and throw hard elbows on the street or subway; in many respects the culture appears to be rigid and sexually conservative, yet fleshbaring girl groups regularly thrust and grind on TV, and the young women publicly sport tiny hot pants and miniskirts that can be a painful distraction to any hot-blooded male walking down the street; when facing strangers, Koreans often put their toughest face forward – in many ways the country is the “Land of a Thousand Scowls” – but witness Koreans interact among themselves, and they’re as warm as it gets: all cackles, smiles, and raucous laughs. So yes, Korea is a culture of extremes, and nowhere is this more apparent when it comes to drinking. This is a highstress society, one of massive social pressures and vicious competition, so some release valves are needed. People gotta have some fun, so the one vice that is allowed – encouraged even – is drinking. If you like to tip the bottle, sip the sauce, hit the hooch, get drunk and drunker, black out, pee your pants, fight with a road sign, in short – get psychotically wasted with little fear of reprehension– this is the country for you. Korea is kind of like Disneyland for alcoholics. It’s heaven for booze hounds. Everywhere you look, there is alcohol for sale. It can be cheap (soju for a buck a bottle) or expensive (whiskey sets, anyone?), but sool is offered up in all places at all times. It’s amazing really. Korea is so liberal about drinking that there’s NO LAST CALL. The bars stay open as long as the customers want. This is never a good idea. I’m currently writing this article from sunny Thailand, which is one of most partying nations on Earth, and even they have the sense to shut the bars down at a reasonable hour. Nothing good can come of people ordering Jager bombs at 5:30 a.m. I think Confucius himself said that. One of the best things about drinking in Korea is that there’s absolutely no sanction for it. You can show up at work the night after a massive bender reeking of booze, crimson-eyed and wearing yesterday’s pukestained clothes, and your boss will pull you aside: “Uh… yesterday… many drink-y???” You grunt and nod in the affirmative. “VERY GOOD!” Slaps your back. “VERY GOOD!” Not only are you not in trouble, but you’re more than likely to get that promotion. In the 44 BUSANHAPS_august/september 2011

West, you’d probably be forced to undertake drinking sensitivity training, or attend AA. This drinking culture in the workplace takes its form in what’s known as the hwey shik, where employees gather after work to eat grilled pork, down endless bottles of soju, and warble reverbed-out songs in the confines of the noraebang. Anyone who has worked for more than a month in Korea has probably been along to a hwey-shik. I personally love them, because I can get drunk for free, but others bristle at the forced drinking and supposed “team building” that the hwey shik has come to symbolize. Some do, because they have better things to do than scream into a microphone with their boss, and others don’t because they simply can’t handle their booze. Just walk the streets of Seomyeon after 10 at night and you will see what I mean: the sidewalks and streets are littered with red splotches of puked-up pork, rice, and pepper paste, known locally as “kimchi flowers.” This no-holds-barred drinking that is so commonplace on the peninsula can have disastrous results for the foreigners who come here to work. For some young, fresh-out-ofcollege folks, teaching in Korea is just an endless piss-up, an extended Spring Break. One visit to the Mud Festival will confirm this, where packs of twenty-something North Americans in various states of undress wander the town, celebrating the fact that they can drink in public without getting arrested. Also, various international scumbags get wind of Korea’s permissive drinking atmosphere and decide t o put down roots. I’ve met some unsavory drunks in my seven years here, including a tattooed Kiwi thug who, when not teaching kindergarten, mainlined white Russians and put at least three people in the hospital; a fat Aussie who used to brag about the fact that he drank during class at his hagwon; and a bingedrinking Canadian who was known to go days without sleep while he wandered from bar to bar in his pajamas. Of course I’m not better than any of these folks. Anyone who knows me has surely seen me blathering and drooling at establishments throughout the city. I am banned from one casino for blacking out and punching a security guard, and once, I slept on Texas Street. Not at a hotel or friend’s place, but literally on Texas Street. I woke up with a blanket of shame that still sticks deep in my pores. So let’s keep having fun. Enjoy yourselves and take advantage of Korea’s more-thantolerant attitude toward drinking, but let’s try to keep it in hand. Do you really want to be falling out of a chair at the Family Mart at 7 a.m. on a Sunday morning, only to have a Korean man on his way to church pass by, look closely, turn to his wife, and say: “Doesn’t he teach our little Jeong-min?”

HAEUNDAE

area

46 BUSANHAPS_august/september 2011

SEOMYEON

area

GWANGAN-LI

area

PNU

area

KYUNGSUNG

area

2011 august/september_BUSANHAPS 47

BUSAN METRO MAP Humetro Call Center Lost & Found Center

Seomyeon Stn.

: on n up wo ps! Co ,000 Chi 10 Free in

Beyond Exciting The most fun you can have is when you Experience Dramatic Luck at Seven Luck Casino.