Busan Haps Issue 23 by Haps Magazine

COVER

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Toyota Dealership Novotel Hotel

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CONTENTS FEATURES

Rod Benson Rules | 18 Crossing the Lines | 20 Very Funny | 22 The World That Was | 24

REGULARS

SPORT

Shape Up! | 32

TRAVEL

International: Hanoi Hush | 34 Korea: History in the Hills | 36

COMMUNITY

For Those in Need | 38 Expat Extracts | 39

FOOD

The Dish: Soupâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s On | 40 Dal Mi Cocco | 41

MUSIC

Hajimama 2.0 | 42 Review: Annapurna | 43

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Photography on the cover and this page by Ben Weller

EDITOR’S LETTER Back home in California, I would now be looking forward to the coming of warm weather. In Korea, I’ll be looking forward to a couple more months of this latitudinal nonsense called winter. Yay. While I spent the better part of December and January in Vietnam and read about the bitter cold weather my friends here in Busan were having while I was gone, I couldn’t help but chuckle to myself over an icy cold Saigon beer. Karma is reputed to be a bitch and to that I can now attest, considering that, upon returning to my apartment here, I found that my heat was on the entire time I was gone. It’s looking to cost me about 400,000 won if I’m lucky. What does this have to do with the 23rd issue of Haps? Absolutely nothing. When you’ve written 22 editors letters over the past few years, it’s nice to mix it up a bit. Hope you enjoy what we’ve done this issue and, as always, thanks to all of those involved. Stay warm.

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CONTRIBUTORS GORDON BAZSALI, JR.

Gordon Bazsali has over 30 years of experience as a performing musician. He hosts Damn Sight Radio Busan, a podcast showcasing independent Busan musicians, and plays a mean trumpet for One Drop East.

JAMES TURNBULL

Since coming to Korea in 2000, James has become widely known for his highly respected blog The Grand Narrative. He lives in Busan with his wife and two daughters, Alice and Elizabeth.

CHRIS THARP

Chris hails from Washington State and has lived in Busan for over six years. When not when banging on a guitar or screaming into a microphone, he likes to write. If you buy him a drink he’ll tell you all about the times he met Kurt Cobain, but you probably already know the story.

BEN WELLER

Originally from the States, Ben Weller has lived in Busan for the better part of a decade, and the city continues to inspire his work. You can see more of his excellent work on his website at www. wellerpix.com

EUGENE SMITH

Haps’ music editor Eugene Smith was born in Costa Rica to Korean and British parents. Along with writing about the Busan music scene, he is the singer, songwriter and guitarist for the Busan rock band Millstone Grit.

PETER DEMARCO

American photographer Peter DeMarco’s exhibition “Color of Night” will run through the month of February at Cafe Salve in KSU. You can learn more about Peter and his exhibition on his website TheNomadWithin.com.

JEN SOTHAM

Jen hails from New York and has been eating her way through Busan since 2006. The first Korean phrase she learned was chal-mo-gu-soob-ni-da.

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PUBLISHER Ju Shin-hye EDITOR IN CHIEF Bobby McGill MARKETING DIRECTOR Michael Schneider MANAGING EDITOR Jeff Liebsch ASSOCIATE EDITOR Michael Fraiman

ART DIRECTOR Russell McConnell WEBMASTER Danny Himes

CULTURE EDITOR Jen Sotham FASHION EDITOR Christy Swain MUSIC EDITOR Eugene Smith WRITERS: Jen Sotham Gordon Bazsali Jr. Harold Swindall Michael Fraiman Christy Swain Steve Feldman Jessica Steele Megan Rushbrook Chris Tharp James Turnbull Bobby McGill Jeff Liebsch Eugene Smith Ed Plott Inai Kang

DESIGNERS: Kelvin Brassbridge II PHOTOGRAPHERS: Mike Dixon Ben Weller Peter DeMarco Brent Sheffield Joe Avallone Jessica Steele BMc ILLUSTRATORS: Michael Roy ACCOUNTS SERVICES Marie Sung INTERN Shin Kyung-bin

SUBMISSIONS busanhaps@gmail.com

BUSINESS REGISTRATION NUMBER: 00001

ADVERTISING busanhaps@gmail.com

FIRST PUBLICATION DATE: Sept, 2, 2009 OFFICE ADDRESS: 1491-8 Miruville #501 Jung Dong, Haeundae-gu Busan, Republic of Korea 612-822 www.busanhaps.com

Events & Culture

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS CHORAL MUSIC SOCIETY FESTIVAL

FEBRUARY 20-24 The fifth installment of the International Schools Choral Music Society Festival, titled MASSive, will be held at the Busan International Foreign School. Students from across Asia will perform new work by Leeds University music head Paul Barker, and a new composition called The Hollow Men (by talented tenor John Hui), which recently won the Jenkins Award for Young Composers. For more information, call 051-742-3332

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC PHOTO EXHIBITION

THROUGH MARCH 3 Underway since December at the Weolseok Art Hall in the KNN Building in Centum City, “The Beautiful Days” has offers five sections—winged animals, walking animals, underwater creatures, eye-opening sights and people in nature—that make up the exhibit. It’s 12,000 won for adults and 9,000 won for students, and runs until March 3, 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. daily. For more information, call 1577-7600

SHAMROCKS AND SHENANIGANS

MARCH 17 March 17 is just around the corner, which means it’s once again time for the annual drunkfest that the annual commemoration of Patron Saint Patrick has become. Some bars around the city deck out in green for the event, with the Basement in PNU and the Wolfhound in Haeundae being the places of choice to celebrate. For those up in the country’s capital, the Irish Association of Korea celebrates its 37th Saint Patrick’s Day with a parade in Cheonggyecheon. You can check out the days events on the Haps calender at BusanHaps.com.

THE

BIG

FIVE EASTER

MARCH 31 Though roughly half of the country is Christian, Easter on the peninsula is a little more subdued than other holidays. That’s not to say it isn’t celebrated: while you might not see an overload of colored eggs, large bunnies or egg hunts, church services are readily available at the International Community Church in Nam-gu and the Hosanna International Ministries in Hadan, as well as elsewhere. You can also check out the Stars and Stripes for service times at the Chinhae Naval Base, Camp Walker and Camp Carroll, as well as enjoy an Easter Dinner at the Seaman’s Club on Pier 3 behind Busan Station.

STEVE BARAKATT CONCERT

FEBRUARY 14 Born in Quebec City, Steve Barakatt has an impressive resume composing and recording of classic and jazz music with the likes of the Alexandrov Red Army Choir to the Tokyo Philharmonic Orchestra. In addition to becoming the first UNICEF Canada Ambassador along with his wife, gymnast Elena Grosheva, he composed the UNICEF International Anthem, Lullaby, a choral symphony which has been premiered by symphony orchestras on five continents and in space on the International Space Station. He’ll be performing at 7:30 p.m. on Valentine’s Day at the Busan Cultural Center. For more information, call 051-607-6057

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WORD ON THE STREET G-STAR

EXTENDED UNTIL 2018

G-Star, the massive game festival which has taken place every November since 2009, has been signed on to stay in Busan for another four years as the Korea Association of Game Industry has extended the festival to remain in the city until 2018. “We will develop G-STAR into one of Busan’s famous luxury culture and industry festivals on the same level as BIFF and the Busan Fireworks Festival,” said Busan mayor Hur Nam-sik. “The city will also fully support the gaming industry in Busan.” In 2012, 434 companies from 31 countries participated, while just under 300,000 visitors attended the four-day event, making it one of the top three gaming festivals in the world. The city estimates the potential economic effect at 400 billion won, in addition to developing Busan as the mecca of gaming on the peninsula.

SCREEN GOLF GAMBLING RING BUSTED

Chalk another crime up to technology. Late last year, the Busan District Prosecutors’ Office arrested seven men in connection with a screen golf gambling ring that saw hundreds of millions of won swindled from local players. According to the Joongang Ilbo, a 39-year-old engineer created a small remote that can control screen golf programs while a game is on, as well as a wireless signal receiving device which controlled the program so opponents balls went into a bunker or into the rough. Twenty other devices were sold to various screen golf locations, in addition to the Geumjeong District shop where the main hustling was taking place.

AIRLINES DROPPING RATES TO LURE CUSTOMERS BACK

With the ever-increasing drop of domestic passengers using local airways, the Korean Airports Corporation has dropped local fares up to 35 percent until mid-March for service running from Seoul’s Gimpo airport to Busan, Ulsan, Pohang and Yeosu. The promotion does exclude peak holiday travel days however. Since 2010, which saw a total of 4.29 million people fly between Seoul and the airports in Busan, Ulsan, Pohang and Yeosu, the number of passengers shrunk to 3.47 million last year. After Korail launched the KTX-II, or “KTX-Sancheon,” that same year, and opened the Daegu and Busan lines, airports have seen a decrease in flights between those cities. Including parking, the average price for a roundtrip ticket using the KTX from Busan to Seoul costs around 95,000 won, but using the airport corporations new system, flights to the capital can be as much as 25% cheaper than using the train service. 12 HAPS_spring 2013

Community & Living

HAVE PASSPORT, WILL TRAVEL

South Koreans accounted for the third largest amount of visitors to the 10 member countries of the Association of Southeast Asian Nations in 2012 according to last year’s tourism data. A total of 3,862,009 travellers ventured off the peninsula, trailing only the Chinese and Australians as the top visitors to the region. By country, the Philippines was the number one destination for holidaymakers, with 925,000 visitors in 2012. Cambodia also saw a major influx of Korean travellers, ranking second only to Vietnam and accounting for almost 12% of the country’s inbound tourists. “ASEAN countries are increasingly showing interest in the provision of better services for Korean tourists, including the education of more Korean language tour guides,” said an official at the Asean-Korea Center.

LIGHTS, CAMERA, ACTION!

With the rise in stature of the Busan International Film Festival over its 17-year run, Busan has been solidifying itself as a shooting location hotspot for local and international projects. In 2012, 37 TV dramas and commercials, and 24 films were shot in the city, including the blockbusters The Thieves, Deranged, The Neighbors, and Nameless Gangster: Rules of Time. Four international films, including the recently released Chinese film Lemon, a Chinese Romance starring Leon Jay Williams, SoHee Hong and Tan Jiexi were also filmed locally. As the movie industry continues to make its move from the capital, projects like Digital Bay, Asia’s first virtual studio, opened in 2012 and the Busan Cinema Complex studio, which includes the Busan Cinema Venture Center and Post Production Center, also rolled out eight films including The Neighbors, Perfect Number, and New World. This year, the Korean Film Council (KOFIC) and the Korea Media Rating Board (KMRB), are also relocating to Busan by October. The 18th edition of the Busan International Film Festival has also been slated to take place from October 3 - 12, 2013. 2013 spring_ busanhaps.com 13

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IN THE NEWS

KOREA LOSES ITS FASTEST INTERNET TITLE

The fastest peak Internet speed is no longer the pride of South Korea—that distinction now belongs to another Asian powerhouse, Hong Kong. The South China Morning Post reported that the Hong Kong Internet eXchange is credited with making it cheaper for different internet service providers to share content, thus allowing the country to reach a peak speed of 54.1 megabits per second, the first country to crack the 50 barrier, while South Korea maxes out at still an impressive 48.8 megabits per second, according to the State of the Internet report issued by Akamai Technologies. All is not lost however, as South Korea still leads the table for fastest average speed at 14.7 Mbps. The SCMP also noted that to download an HD version of the movie Battleship could be done in about four minutes at the peak broadband internet speed—about the same time it takes to make a cup of coffee.

A BRAND NEW DAE(WOO)

One of Korea’s most prominent producers of electronics and home appliances, Daewoo Electronics Corp., has finally been sold after its mother conglomerate famously collapsed over a decade ago. The rough ten years have been saved by Dongbu Group, a comparatively small chaebol that bought 51 percent of Daewoo for 276 billion won (USD$256 million). If you’re wondering why that’s comparatively small, note that Daewoo is estimated to earn around 1.9 trillion won per year, versus, say, Samsung Electronics, which earns 200 trillion annually, or LG Electronics, which is a dwarf in comparison at a ‘modest’ 60 trillion. If these numbers don’t make you feel small, very little will.

WHO EXACTLY IS BRANDING KOREA INC.?

South Korea has made great strides in rebranding their image since the Korean Wave was first coined by journalists in Beijing in 1999, but is it the government’s attempts of branding Korea Inc. or accidental successes like Psy’s Gangnam Style that are working best? Financial Times columnist Christian Oliver penned late in 2012 that the Presidential Council on Nation Branding has failed in its attempts from the “manicured, sanitised view of Korea that the apparatchiks have sought to project” and that Korea’s breakthrough “would arrive as a big cultural accident, unaided by bureaucrats.” In a survey conducted by the Corea Image Communication Institute (CICI) in 2011, according to president Choi Jung-wha, “Many foreigners thought of words like ‘divided country,’ and ‘Korean War’ when thinking about Korea until 2011. But last year, foreigners mentioned conglomerates such as Samsung and LG as well as K-pop and Korean dramas.” Nation branding expert Simon Anholt sums it up best in a recent interview with AFP. “The success of someone like Psy is proof that state-sponsored or state-controlled cultural output is never as potent or attractive as individual self-expression. Countries are judged by what they do and what they make, not by what they say about themselves.” 14 HAPS_spring 2013

Korea & World News

BRINGING BACK BABY

In a farce bigger than Annyong’s in the cult TV comedy Arrested Development, the South Korean government is excited to repatriate its first citizen from overseas, an apparently illegally adopted 18-month-old baby. It’s a nuanced political mess. An American couple from Illinois adopted the baby (then less than one-month-old) and returned together to Illinois in June 2012. But they hadn’t, for any number of reasons, filled out the proper Korean adoption papers, and now the South Korean government is haranguing various levels of American governments, including the Cook County Circuit Court in Illinois, where the judge decided that the parents should lose their custody of the child. Once returned, the child would be handed over to the Seoul Children’s Welfare Center, placed in a foster home and, presumably, eventually adopted.

WEEDY SEA DRAGON ROMANCE

Busan Aquarium now holds the distinction of being the only place in Asia to successfully breed Weedy Sea Dragons in captivity. A native to the waters of Southern Australia, the Weedy Sea Dragon is close kin with the seahorse and a pair of them bought from the Melbourne Aquarium in 2011 managed to complete the mating process which can take up to six months and involves the female laying up to 200 eggs for a male to incubate. Under the watchful eye of a specialist flown in from the UK, 20 of the eggs produced offspring making Korea only the third country in the world to breed Weedy Sea Dragons in captivity along with Australia and the United States. the roughly two-centimeters-long dragons will feed on crustaceans such as tiny shrimp, and if all goes well, eventually reach a full size of about 35 centimeters. 2013 spring_ busanhaps.com 15

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MATERIAL WORLD

TRAVEL TECH

FOR A LOT OF PEOPLE HERE ON THE PENINSULA, IT’S TIME TO GRAB A PLANE, TRAIN OR AUTOMOBILE FOR A LITTLE TRAVELING. HAPS HAS SOME GREAT PICKS FOR HIGH TECH TRAVEL GEAR TO TAKE ALONG WITH YOU AS YOU VENTURE OUT INTO THE WORLD. BON VOYAGE!

THE GORILLAPOD The typical tripod is pretty limited on options when you wanna get that tough-to-capture shot on rough terrain, or when clinging to the side of a wall or standing on a mountain (if you’re Spiderman). Fear no more: those great shots are now yours with the innovative Gorillapod. Different sizes mean that it can hold as much weight as a full-fledged SLR with a mid-size lens, or else grab a smaller, lighter gorilla variety for your smartphone or compact camera. It can wrap around railings and polls, and, if you’re using a compact, it has magnetic feet to grab ahold of metal. Order online from the manufacturer at www.joby.com.

ROCKSTAR HEADPHONE SPLITTER

Perhaps you’re one of those people who really likes to share. If so, then the $10 Belkin Rockstar Multi-Headphone Splitter is a simple little audio hub that allows up to five people to listen in to the same music from an MP3 player, DVD player or any other device with standard audio plugs. Though all might enjoy being able to share the sound, there is a catch: all must share the same volume since there is no way to control individual output. But hey, what do you expect for $10? You can pick it up online or at local retailers.

EYE-FI CONNECT

Many of the new cameras hitting the market these days have built in WiFi connectivity allowing you to seamlessly store your photos in the cloud or post them directly to Facebook and other media sites. But now you can get your older model digital camera to do the same with an Eye-Fi Connect flash memory drive that, amazingly enough, comes with built in WiFi in the memory card. Another very cool feature about the Eye-Fi Connect card is once your photos have been stored online it automatically deletes them from the card, ensuring plenty of room for continued shooting. Visit the website for more info and to check for compatibility with your camera or mobile device. www.eye.fi 16 HAPS_spring 2013

Gadgets & Gear

THE SCRUBBA PORTABLE WASHBAG

Wanna save a little time and money on getting your laundry done while traveling? The Scrubba portable wash bag is the only way to go. Made of lightweight polyurethane with a coated nylon housing, it folds up to a small package about the size of a pair of socks while weighing only 150 grams. Once unfolded, the eco-friendly wash bag is large enough to wash a couple of t-shirts, a few pairs of socks and some underwear. You can order it online for about US$30 from www.thescrubba.com.

POWERBAG ROLLING OFFICE CASE

This rolling, dual-purpose bag not only handles all of your travel essentialsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;including up to a 17-inch laptopâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;it also charges all your gadgets as you go. It comes with a removable battery which, on a full charge, can re-juice the average smartphone several times. And, as you roll along through the terminal, the wheels turn a small generator that allows you to power up a wide variety of tablets, cameras, e-readers, music players and most other accessories. You can pick it up at several online retailers including Amazon or directly from the manufacturer at www. mypowerbag.com. 2013 spring_ busanhaps.com 17

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STYLE & BEAUTY

ROD BENSON RULES BY CHRISTY

SWAIN PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF ROD BENSON

MORE THAN JUST A B-BALLER, ROD BENSON IS A TALENTED WRITER AND PROMOTER. THE CREATOR OF BOOM THO! GEAR TALKS ABOUT THE INSPIRATION FOR HIS FASHION LINE. “Fearless”, “fun” and “irreverent” could describe both pro baller Rod Benson and his street-wear line, Boom Tho!. Bright colors and signature in-your-face catchphrases (“Sorry is for Suckers”, “Sex! Tacos! Beer!”, “Sunday Funday”) adorn his tees, hoodies and caps. Currently playing for the LG Sakers in Changwon, Benson divides his time between basketball, blogging and both designing and marketing his gear. The founder of the Boom Tho Movement took a time out with HAPS to answer the big question: What do you get when you cross a quick-witted basketball player with West Coast street-wear swag?

EDUCATE THE READERS OF HAPS ON WHAT BOOM THO! IS ALL ABOUT.

Boom Tho does things a bit differently: we produce lunch boxes and slap bracelets, we have a team of 7’5” mascots and aren’t afraid of making an occasional YouTube video. We have no limit as to lengths we will go to have a good time and stand out. We skate, paint, chill, make moves and party. We’re the envy of anyone who thinks they’re next level. WHAT ARE THE PRINCIPLES OF WEST COAST STYLE?

West Coast Style is influenced by the sun and the sand. Surf and skate culture also have an effect on how people dress, so it’s totally reasonable for younger people to wear Vans, shorts and a t-shirt or hoodie for most of the year. There tends to be a bit more color as well, as people want to stand out and show their individuality. WHO’S WEARING YOUR CLOTHES?

Men aged 16-26 are our main customers, as street-wear is a young man’s game. That said, there are some stylish women who wear our small sizes, and some older guys who wear our board shorts and other party styles because, let’s face it, partying doesn’t end at age 26. YOU USE A LOT OF COLOR IN YOUR DESIGNS—DO YOU HAVE A FAVORITE FOR YOUR NEXT COLLECTION?

We tend to have a crazy colorway, and a more hip-hop/sneakerfriendly colorway for each of our items. I’m partial to all of our “puzzling” designs. It’s like our signature pattern that uses puzzle pieces to add color to our logos. You can find it on our bestselling beanie, on our upcoming hats and on our zip-hoodies that came out December 1. 18 HAPS_spring 2013

Style & Beauty WHY DID YOU START DESIGNING STREET WEAR? HOW DID THIS COME ABOUT?

After graduating from UC Berkeley, my basketball aspirations led me to the D-League where I improved my skills, but also founded toomuchrodbenson.com. It was during that time that I started using “boom tho” (coined by a group of my close friends in college) as my tagline in many of my videos and writings. As my basketball career blossomed, so did the phrase. In 2007, I was hired to write for Yahoo!, and “boom tho” became known internationally. People wanted tees to rep the word, and I created some pretty crude stuff to keep them happy. In 2010, I decided to take what I had learned over the years of creating shirts for fans and grow it into a full line. I’VE READ THAT YOU’VE BEEN CRITICIZED BY NBA EXECS FOR PERHAPS SPREADING YOURSELF TOO THIN WITH YOUR BLOG. DO YOU THINK THE SAME COULD BE SAID ABOUT YOUR FASHION LINE?

The same could definitely be said, but that criticism is more of a PC way to criticize me for not being “basketball enough”. Really, I’ve been called “too smart for my own good” many times, and for no other reason than the fact that I have the capacity to do more. But the argument against me tapping my outside potential must mean that I should ignore other talents and spend my entire youth not preparing for my next career at a time when my friends are in grad school and moving up corporate ladders, right? Sounds a bit funny to me. Besides, nobody has ever just said, “He’s not good enough.” It’s more like, “We don’t get it.” YOU WORK WITH A LOT OF CELEBRITIES—RAPPERS, ATHLETES AND MTV PERSONALITIES ALIKE. WHO WOULD YOU LIKE TO WORK WITH NEXT?

I really prefer working with the up-and-coming guys a lot more. They tend to really grind and are very humble. That said, I think Macklemore would be awesome, as well as Kendrick Lamar. WHICH KOREAN HIP-HOP/POP ARTISTS WOULD YOU LIKE TO WORK WITH?

I think Tiger JK and Drunken Tiger would be a great look, because he reminds me of the Korean rappers from LA, and ties pretty well with the street-wear scene. YOU’VE LIVED IN KOREA FOR A WHILE NOW. HAVE YOU USED ANYTHING FROM YOUR EXPERIENCES HERE IN YOUR DESIGNS?

Absolutely. The bright lights and color patterns here are very inspirational. Also, since a lot of the fashion here comes from Japan, every now and then I see something crazy that I feel I can incorporate into our line. ANY PLANS TO BREAK INTO THE KOREAN MARKET?

Yes. I’m currently working diligently to get the pieces in place and get into some Korean boutiques before this season is over. IF YOU WERE DESIGNING FOR THE KOREAN FASHION MAR-

KET, ARE THERE ANY THINGS YOU’D DO DIFFERENTLY?

Smaller. Everything smaller. The smallest size we currently carry could probably fit a Korean couple inside. The biggest could fit half of Jamsil. THOUGHTS ON KOREAN STYLE? LIKES AND DISLIKES?

I like that Korea is pretty forward and that the people here have a lot of confidence in the things they wear. My issue is that there’s not too much creativity here. Much of what people wear is solely based on what’s popular. Most of the stuff the people here are wearing is already pretty wild, why not just wear what you want and step outside the box? HOW FAR DO YOU WANT TO TAKE THIS PROJECT?

I could be doing this for a long time. In fashion, if you do it right, you don’t blow up and then go away. We’ve had those opportunities. Instead, keep building hype and legitimacy, and people will see your brand as cooler and long-lasting. Hopefully we can reach that level and, if so, there is no real timeline. IF YOU HAD TO CHOOSE BETWEEN BASKETBALL AND FASHION IN THE FUTURE, WHICH WAY WOULD YOU GO?

In the future? Fashion. But it depends on how far in the future. I have to retire from basketball someday, but do I have to retire from creativity? Nope. Check out Boom Tho’s range of tees, hoodies, caps and other tasty treats available worldwide at www.boomthoshop.com, on Twitter (@boomtho) and on Facebook (www.facebook.com/boomtho). 2013 spring_ busanhaps.com 19

HSocial

ISSUE

CROSSING THE LINES:

THE TRENDS RESHAPING WOMEN BY

JAMES TURNBULL

THE S-LINE, THE V-LINE, THE X-LINE AND MORE. MODERN KOREA IS GOING THROUGH THE SAME PRODUCT-DRIVEN PUSH THAT ONCE RESHAPED WOMEN IN THE WEST.

“T

here are a few things unsettling about the same reason (and I’m sure you can guess which versions the images, especially the ones in which the Venus and Yes lingerie companies promote). Moreover, the entire shape of the face is changed adding to that confusion, one can get Y-line ‘lifts’ done to one’s thanks to bone shaving. Somehow eye- jaw too, and the term has also been used to refer to—yes, relids and nose cartilage still seem rather ally—vaginas, backs and shoulders, and buttocks. surface-level, whereas changing the No mere schoolboy slang, that’s just a small taste of the verishape of your skull just feels extreme and intense.” table alphabet soup that pervades Korean advertising and So wrote Dodai Stewart, in a recent article on Korean plastic popular culture. What is most striking, though, is not how imsurgery for the feminist website Jezebel. And who can blame plausible and unnecessary the resulting terms are; rather, it’s her for the negative impression she leaves? Learning about that they’re contested at all. Because whereas companies in what Koreans will do for that perfect ‘V-line’ jaw is enough to English-speaking markets are no less self-serving than their make anyone cringe. Korean counterparts, in general they do seem to be conWhat’s more, with Korea having the highest per-capita num- strained to working with terms—e.g. ‘hourglass figure’—which ber of plastic surgery operations in the world, then it’s often the public are already very familiar with, rather than being free in relation toto invent their own. Korea—not their In contrast, Korea EXPECTATIONS SURROUNDING WOMEN’S BODIES—IN home countries— provides a fascinatTHE WEST AND ASIA—THAT ENDURE TO THIS DAY, ARE ing—and frightenthat people first realize the lengths ing—case of where ALL MANIFESTATIONS OF THE SAME, UTTERLY UTILIsome will go to constraints TARIAN, REDUCTIONIST VIEW OF WOMEN UPON WHICH those for the sake of have been removed. MODERN CONSUMERISM RELIES. their appearance. In addition to boneSo, when they do, shaving for V-lines it’s only natural to process that new information by concluding for example, another ensuing extreme is the ‘X-line’ waist, that only Koreans take things to such crazy extremes. which Amore Pacific invented in 2008 to sell its “V=B ProCertainly, in one of only two countries in the OECD where it’s gram” diet products, despite the inconvenient fact that X-lines legal to demand photographs on resumes (the other is Japan), are physically impossible (ads feature grotesque photoand the only one where young women are getting more un- shopped waists, resembling those inflicted on women by 19thderweight than obese, then no one can deny that appearance century corsets). matters a great deal here. And it’s also true that this stress on One more, is the deeply misogynistic, almost pedophilic label it can manifest itself in many surprising and unnerving ways. ‘bagel girl’ heavily promoted in the media, the “bay” referring One of these is alphabetization, or the exhortation by Korean to young, “baby” faces, and the “gul” referring to “glamour,” companies and the media to (overwhelmingly) push women to which means large breasts in Korean. Problematic just for purchase products and services to help mold themselves into the blatant objectification alone, what is particularly worrivarious ideal body-shapes, or ‘lines’. Specifically, their com- some is that the term is used only for young women, rather than pany’s line(s), which many simply invent—or pluck from obscu- middle-aged ones for whom looking youthful might be rity—for the sake of creating new consumer demand. considered a plus. Pause to consider what charming individConsider some of those for women’s breasts for instance. uals would be attracted to busty 18-year-olds with childlike Many plastic surgeons actually refer to those as V-lines, based faces, and it’s difficult not to conclude that it’s the combon the (real) lines between them; others, as ‘Y-lines’, for exactly ination of developed bodies and implied childlike person20 HAPS_spring 2013

alities that is the real attraction. Surely, it’s tempting to think, such gross excesses would never occur in Western countries? Think again. As explained by Jill Fields in An Intimate Affair: Women,Lingerie and Sexuality (2007), there have actually been at least two alphabetization crazes in North American and European history. The first, in the 1920s to the 1940s, when corsets were the most common female undergarment. Deserving their uncomfortable reputation, manufacturers had to rely on well-trained store clerks to sell them, recommending styles based on timeconsuming measurements of customers and extensive knowledge of the necessarily wide product lines available. Much more desirable, from manufacturers’ perspectives, would be to produce a more limited number of lines and convince women that one of those would be appropriate for them. And so they did, with a host of accompanying pseudo-scientific rationales, culminating in the notion that one’s choice should not necessarily be determined by how well they fit, but rather by how well they uncomfortably corrected ‘figure faults’ in the wearers themselves. Unlike bra manufacturers that they increasingly competed against though, who agreed on an industry-wide standardization into cup sizes in the mid-1930s, different manufacturers promoted their own schema at the expense of others. Bon ton, for example, a prosaic ‘A-J’ one; Flexees Company, a more elegant one with terms like ‘Renaissance’ (full-hip), ‘Parisienne’ (full-bust), and ‘Egyptian’ (full-bust, straight-hip). Moreover, the media readily joined the fray, the December 25, 1939 issue of Time magazine, for instance, bemoaning that “only two million out of forty million women have ideal proportions.” The second example is the malleability of term “glamour” in the late-1930s to the 1950s. Because, rather than being a humorous Korean mistranslation, in fact it did mean large breasts in English at that time, via busty film stars such as Lana Turner and Jane Russell (the former was called ‘Baby Glamour’ by a co-star in 1938; sound familiar?). Yet somehow, inexplicably, both the term and its eroticism would ultimately be transferred from their breasts to the sweaters they wore, sparking a fetishistic “sweater girls” craze.

That Korean society today is now experiencing things that the West did over half a century ago though, does not imply that the former is merely catching-up, almost always a patronizing and anachronistic notion. Rather, the earlier cases sparked public discourses and expectations surrounding women’s bodies—in the West and Asia—that endure to this day, and all are manifestations of the same, utterly utilitarian, reductionist view of women upon which modern consumerism relies. Please bear this in mind, the next time you’re tempted to only use cultural explanations for the Korean case. Let alone some of the stranger examples of it!

James Turnbull is a writer and public speaker on Korean feminism, sexuality, and pop culture. He can be found at the grandnarrative.com. 2013 spring_ busanhaps.com 21

HInside

STORY

VERY FUNNY BY

STEVE FELDMAN PHOTOGRAPHY BY BEN WELLER

THE HA HA HOLE, BUSAN’S VERY OWN COMEDY OPEN MIC, IS SETTING OUT ON ITS FOURTH YEAR OF CONTINUING HILARITY DELIVERED TO CROWDS AROUND KOREA. STANDUP COMEDIAN STEVE FELDMAN TELLS THE TALE OF THE TROUPE.

ou are not a comedian. You are more than likely an ESL teacher in Busan, South Korea. (Some wiseacres might say, “You are not a teacher, either,” but that’s another story.) Tonight you are making your, what, fourth? fifth? appearance at The Ha Ha Hole, Busan’s monthly open-mic stand-up comedy night. Yeah, you know it’s just an open-mic, it’s just a hobby, but you take it seriously. Started in November, 2009, it has become a first-Fridayof-every-month Busan institution. You want to be worthy of the two free drink tickets. It’s 6 p.m. on Friday afternoon, your hagwon English classes are done, and you’re back at your crummy little one-room apartment. You haven’t eaten all day. You’re chain smoking again. By now, your Korean neighbors definitely think you’re insane— they’ve been hearing you, the waygook whom they know lives 22 HAPS_spring 2013

alone, having loud conversations with himself for the last few days. They don’t know that you’re just going over your set for tonight. You take a final drag on your Dunhill then stab it out in disgust. You go over your set again, telling jokes to the couch, the bed, the wall. Hopefully the real audience will laugh more. You time your set this time. Fourteen minutes. Too long, dammit. You don’t like going long, and besides, Tharp says he’s going to be flashing a pen-light at people at the ten mark. Not that this would get Hockmuth off the stage. That guy goes longer than a Springsteen concert. What can you cut? You look over your bits. The Korean mountain hiking bit? The Arirang TV bit? The celebrity suicide bit? You realize that 80 percent of your material is Korea-related, as is just about all of the bits comedians do at the Hole. Well, living in Korea does offer up a lot of low-hanging fruit. Hazelton has told

you he’s trying to veer away from the Korea stuff. Easy for him— he’s from Idaho. Lots of material right there. You especially like: “I went to Boise State—I paid my tuition in beef jerky.” Maybe you should cut the suicide bit. A little risky. New Korean apartment buildings come with diving boards pre-installed on the roofs? Errrr, maybe that one’s gotta go, especially after that horrific “online suicide club” story in Busan from a few months ago. You know you must walk a fine line here in Korea. (“There’s a fine line between clever and stupid,” goes the line from Spinal Tap.) You read about (in Busan Haps) the 2006 Babapalooza business, where a whole raft of English teachers almost got the heave-ho from Korea for their sketch comedy show. They weathered the storm, and a few of them, Tharp, Sammy, Gus and Angry Steve, are still in town and regularly play the Hole. Tharp, who did stand-up and alternative theater in Seattle for years (gee, no wonder he came to Korea to find a job), is actually the Ha Ha Hole’s founder. But you also know you can’t be afraid to step on toes, to bite-the-hand-thatfeed-you, to push the envelope, to avoid clichés (unlike this sentence). Meyerriecks is definitely not afraid in this department. That guy goes definitely goes where angels fear to tread (assuming angels fear to tread in the land of Japanese bondage-porn masturbation comedy bits). Angry Steve once did a whole set on his father dying of Alzheimer’s. You noticed the audience wasn’t laughing much—but they were stone silent, listening. Get ‘em to listen, and you’re already on third base. You wonder what kind of audience you’ll get tonight. The Hole’s been going robustly for more than three years now, still at the same original locale, Soultrane up in PNU, first Friday of every month. Sometimes the crowd is large, rollicking and rowdy—just the right balance between fun and chaotic. Sometimes it totally out-of-control with yammering piss-heads who don’t seem to realize that you are, like, on stage, trying to, like, perform. Most of the heckling is good natured. Em Teachy. Lord,

Em Teachy. Bless his besotted soul. The guy will repeat—in a joyous bellow—any comedians’ lines that he thinks are halfway funny. Which is most of them. It’s always audience participation time when Teach is around. You wonder how many are going on the mic tonight. Most Holes average eight to 10. Most of the regular crew—Tharp, Scraggs, Meyerrieks, Hazelton, Johnny the Greek, Ben May, the new honey-voiced kid McGrath, Hampson, maybe Angry Steve coming down from Cheonan. Hopefully some women this time. The comedy scene here is mostly a boys club, but, in your opinion, the women who’ve gone up have generally nailed it. French Emma, English Sophie and recently Korean Miran. Who says chicks aren’t funny? You hope you’re good enough to eventually get invited for one of the road gigs—a crew of Busan comics doing shows at bars and clubs in other cities. Already the Hole’s Traveling Cavalcade of Yuks has been to Suwon, Cheonan, Pohang, Changwon, Gwangju and Gumi, plus the “Showcase” shows out at Sharky’s in Haeundae and Beached in Gwangalli. Plus, Meyerriecks has recently started a monthly Daeyeon Ha Ha Hole at HQ. Busan comedy—“It’s kind of a thing,” Hazelton once told you. You tend to agree. Busan comedy is definitely a thing. You most look forward to hanging out after the show, upstairs at Crossroads, everybody already hammered or well on their way. You walk back the show, talk about who wears the Green Jacket for the night. Who killed? Who died? Which of your bits worked? Which ones ate it? Which ones were good but needed some tweaking? It’s really an amazingly supportive group of comics. You all know how damn hard it is, just you and a mic and a crowd and make ‘em laugh, kid. Do a good set, and it’s like floating on clouds. A bad set? Well, one time Scraggs went around the room, pointing at that night’s comics and giving his pithy assessment: “Funny, funny, funny, funny.” He pointed at you. “Temple stay!”

“I WENT TO BOISE STATE— I PAID MY TUITION IN BEEF JERKY.”

2013 spring_ busanhaps.com 23

HCover STORY

KOREA HAS SEEN ITS SHARE OF CHANGE. THOUGH IT HAS TRANSFORMED FROM THE LAND OF THE MORNING CALM TO A COUNTRY BUZZING WITH MODERN LIFE, THERE ARE STILL POCKETS OF THE OLD WITHIN THE EXPANDING STRETCHES OF THE NEW. HAPS TAKES A LOOK AT THE VARIED SIDES OF THE ROK THROUGH THE LENSES OF THREE PHOTOGRAPHERS, BEN WELLER, BRENT SHEFFIELD AND PETER DEMARCO.

THE WORLD THAT WAS

Ben Weller offers a look at the Korea visitors seldom see outside of the city confines.

24 HAPS_spring 2013

2013 spring_ busanhaps.com 25

HCover STORY

26 HAPS_spring 2013

THE LAND THAT IS Brent Sheffieldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lens finds slices of the old as they intermingle with the burgeoning new.

2013 spring_ busanhaps.com 27

HCover STORY

28 HAPS_spring 2013

THE PATH TAKEN

Peter DeMarco’s images chart the trajectory of where Korea is going and where it’s been.

2013 spring_ busanhaps.com 29

30 HAPS_spring 2013

2013 spring_ busanhaps.com 31

HSports

TALK

SHAPE UP! BY

INAI KANG PHOTOS FROM CROSSFIT.COM

CROSSFIT HAS FIRMLY FOUND ITS PLACE IN THE FITNESS WORLD AND IS NOW OFFICIALLY IN BUSAN. INAI KANG GIVES THE SCOOP ON SHAPING UP.

ou’re doing your best to stick with your New Year’s resolution to get healthy/lose weight, and have been doing a great job going to the gym and getting in that workout. But, already you can feel the humdrum, monotony of health club purgatory set in. The constant routine of cardio, weights, cardio, weights, and on and on; it gets boring fast. It might be time to try something new and discover the new you. CrossFit, according to the official website, www.crossfit.com, is the principal strength and conditioning program for many police academies and tactical operations teams, military special operations units, champion martial artists, and hundreds of other elite and professional athletes worldwide. It is constantly varied, functional movement, at high intensity—in other words, everyday movements used in daily changing workouts with a coach to make sure you get your blood pumping. While the CrossFit craze has been going on worldwide since its founding by Greg Glassman in 2000, Busan’s Sentinel Beachside, the only one located in the city and situated right across the street from beautiful Gwangan Beach, provides an extra large space in the warmer seasons for some great WODs (WorkOut of the Day). The laid-back, beachside attitude can also describe the atmosphere of their box (gym); a refreshing change 32 HAPS_spring 2013

from what you might find in your bigger gyms or health clubs. They provide all the necessary amenities and really focus on your workout. Because of this sudden surge of interest many gyms are now offering “crossfit” classes, but be sure to request to see the CrossFit certifications of the instructors there. This style of exercise is high intensity and requires a level of skills knowledge. If ... CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGE

your coach is not certified it can lead to major injury. Additionally, don’t allow yourself to be swayed by cheaper prices in programs that can’t assure you are in safe and capable hands. RCF Sentinel Beachside can offer you a safe workout experience as all of their coaching staff have been CrossFit certified. Bootcamp class is another option for those looking to get a great workout. You might have heard of other bootcamp classes or even taken some at your local gym back home. However, here in Korea, Sentinel has attained copyright of the term “Bootcamp” when referring to any bootcamp class having to do with crossfit. Their system and style of Bootcamp is a great workout and a favorite of many of their clients. Sounds too intense? Have you already been scared off by the insane YouTube videos and stories you’ve heard from other crossfitters? Don’t let that dissuade you. CrossFit is completely scalable and modifiable. People think they can’t possibly do the workouts, but this is entirely not true. Every single move, sit-up, pull-up, Olympic weightlifting, squats, all of it; their coaches will work with you to help you progress. CrossFit classes at Beachside are all led by a certified coach to ensure that you receive the best and safest gym experience and who will also explain the workout and encourage and help you through each workout everyday you come. All you have to do is show up; and try of course. For more info on RCF Sentinel Beachside at 051-758-3374 or their website at www.sentinelmain.com

NORTH KOREAN JONG JOINS THE K LEAGUE

North Korean striker Jong Tae-se has agreed to join the K League’s Suwon Samsung Blue Wings the club confirmed. The South Korean club reportedly paid a 300,000 Euro transfer fee to the German club 1. FC Köln, and Jong signed a three-year deal worth 400 million won (US$376,932) per season according to local media speculation. “I’m not sure how he’ll do, but he certainly seems to have potential from what we’ve

seen of him on the field for his past clubs,” said Suwon manager Seo Jung-won. After joining German second-division club VfL Bochum in 2011, he scored 15 goals in 41 appearances over two seasons, but lost his place in the starting rotation after he was traded last February. Jong is the second national member of the North Korean squad to join the K League, after Ahn Yong-hak, who played for the Busan I’Park and Suwon from 2006-2009.

IPARK HIRE YOON SUNG-HYO, ADD WILLIAM

The Busan IPark have hired Yoon Sung-hyo to take over the reigns at Sajik this season. Yoon becomes the 27th manager in club history and the 18th permanent since the teams inception in 1983. Yoon, a native of Gimhae, led Suwon to two consecutive fourth place finishes, compiling a 48 win, 24 draw and 25 loss record in 97 matches over three seasons for the Blue Wings. The club additionally signed 26-year-old Brazilian William Fernando Da Silva, known as William, who joins IPark from Sociedade Esportiva Palmeiras, where he made 49 appearances and scored six goals over a six year period. He also had stints on loan at Nautico, Vitoria, Goias, Atletico Goianiense and Joinville.

KT SONIC BOOM SCHEDULE SUNDAY, FEBRUARY 3 - ULSAN MOBIS PHOEBUS WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 6 - KCC EGIS SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 9 - SAMSUNG THUNDER WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 13 - SK KNIGHTS THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 21 - INCHEON ET LAND SUNDAY, FEBRUARY 24 - WONJU DONGMU PROMY SATURDAY, MARCH 2 - LG SAKERS TUESDAY, MARCH 19 - KCC EGIS 2013 spring_ busanhaps.com 33

HDISPATCH

INTERNATIONAL

THE HANOI HUSH:

WALKING THE FRENCH QUARTER

STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY BOBBY MCGILL

VIETNAM’S CAPITAL CITY OF HANOI IS AWASH WITH SIGHTS AND SOUNDS. THERE ARE TIMES WHEN IT’S NICE TO DO WITHOUT THE LATTER OF THE TWO.

’ve been in Hanoi for less than two hours and already I’m rattled. It’s Ho Chi Minh City all over again. The sights, the smells, the sounds. What was all there is all here, but this time I’m not in the mood. It’s the sounds, really. I could, as I did in Ho Chi Minh, romanticize it as the melody of “progress”, the salutary resonance of the world’s 13th most populous nation ratcheting its way up the ladder from the 56th rung of the global economy. Now, it just feels like too much noise. I suggest a game to my travelling companion. We need it. She and I have been visiting her homeland for just shy of three weeks, working our way north via train from Ho Chi Minh to Nha Trang to Da Nang to Hoi An to Haiphong and now here. Until this particular moment I adored Vietnam without question. At some point I loved her, too. Now it’s just cloudy skies, littered streets and the noise around and between us. The game I propose is to see how high we can count before the sound of another horn blares from the din of combustion and steel. A scooter, a car, a truck or if by chance a flock of geese passing overhead, let’s see how high we can go until we hear a honk. One, two... honk! One... beep! 34 HAPS_spring 2013

On...honk!..e. She smiles but, doesn’t care to play. The front desk clerk at the hotel was helpful. He suggested we first try a neighborhood nearby called the French Quarter; the area where the French colonial enterprise ruled from 1873 until 1954 when they were forcibly expelled by those they once conquered. In my bag I have a book containing a map demarcated with 20 notable spots to admire French architecture amongst a grid of quieter back streets. We take off walking hoping the rain holds. Rounding the northern stretch of Hoan Kiem Lake, then south along its western shore, we enter the French Quarter. The wide streets are lined with large trees that serve like gauze to the noise now beginning to fade. We come first upon St. Joseph’s Cathedral, with its blue-and-white “1” on the map. Built in 1886 on the grounds of a sacred temple, the cathedral was modelled after the Notre Dame in the neo-Gothic style of that period. I think I know what that means. I haven’t been inside a church in years, and today this one is closed to the public. Walking around the side under the watchful eye of a towering Jesus and two children, we are approached by a shabbily-dressed old man whose few remaining teeth are colored

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: THE SOUTH WALL OF SAINT JOSEPH’S CATHEDRAL; HANOI PUBLIC ADMINISTRATION BUILDING; INTERIOR OF SAINT JOSEPH’S CATHEDRAL; BOOKSTORE ALLEY (BOTTOM OF PAGE)

like soot—like the unadorned mortar with which the cathedral was erected. I ignore his “How are you?” fearing it will lead to “What change can you spare?” only to find he is now asking my companion, in Vietnamese, if we’d like to take a look inside. “Vang,” she replies, as he pulls a ring of keys from his tattered overcoat. The cathedral’s side doors, framed in the drab, washed-out exterior, open up to an inspiring house of God. From marble floors to soaring arches, every inch is immaculate. It’s breathtaking. It’s holy. And the metaphor of who unlocked the doors is neither lost nor elusive. The meek shall embarrass the earth. Like most Americans, especially those from down south or out west, I am awed by storied old structures. Southerners in America built everything from wood, and California simply hasn’t been around that long. By comparison, Hanoi is forever. Afterwards, we stop in a quiet cafe. The noise between us has for the moment subsided. I read her a passage from a book, written by Hu Ngoc, a local scholar who just celebrated his 94th year. “Even today the French culture plays an important role in daily Vietnamese life... being French educated, I embraced French humanism... that knowledge and understanding helped me to resist and fight the colonialism.” I think she understands. She lived her life here, now studies in Korea, speaks that tongue more than mine and knows its ways. I suggest that it’s likely easier to embrace the value of foreign influence when you’re the reason that your occupier leaves. She’s texting her mother. We walk the serene grounds of Hoan Kiem Library, take some pics of a Banyan tree, sneak in the gates of an old seminary and then search for the infamous Maison Centrale, which I’ve known throughout my life as the “Hanoi Hilton”, a notorious name from a notorious time that she calls the “American War”. Built by the French in 1886 to suppress local dissent, then used by Vietnam for downed American pilots, only the front gate and a few structures remain intact. For some reason, I

imagined the Hanoi Hilton would be comprised of sloppily erected huts somewhere in the middle of a jungle. It’s instead within a canopy of tall buildings at the center of town. There’s a KFC down the street. Once outside, while I wait for her to come, a tour bus pulls up and out streams the Notre Dame University football team for a tour. The connection with the cathedral would not come till later. For now I just watch them and wonder: will they share the mixture of disdain with our own heritage and with that of our former adversary that they will soon see glossed over within these prison walls? Winding down the last of the map, there’s more French architectural remnants, efficacious, standing strong, as the old now blends with the older and then the older with the new. There are several historic temples that the French hammers spared, towering trees and their oots fighting battles with the concrete, rows of metal shops and cafes and boutiques. We eat, we talk, and once again we laugh, sitting on dirty plastic chairs eating delicious street food. And the horns once again sound melodic.

2013 spring_ busanhaps.com 35

HTRAVEL KOREA

HISTORY IN THE HILLS: BUSAN’S GAMCHEON CULTURE VILLAGE STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY JESSICA STEELE

TAKE A STEP BACK IN TIME AND INTO ANOTHER WORLD BY EXPLORING THE COLORFUL AND HISTORIC ALLEYWAYS OF GAMCHEON CULTURE VILLAGE.

ittle ceramic birds with smirking human faces, towering metal flowers and a cow-hide patterned building: these are just a few of the quirks that await you in the charming and reclusive Gamcheon Culture Village. Nested high in the hills of Saha-gu, this quirky artfilled suburb has emerged from the dust of poverty and war to become one of Busan's more unique architectural and cultural offerings. Although it attracts thousands of camera-toting tourists every year, the village has recently attracted renewed interest by winning the 2012 UN-HABITAT Asian Townscape Award as well as a cultural excellence award from Korea’s Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism. While these awards will bring attention and prestige to the village, they will also bring some much-needed money. Gamcheon has long been home to the city’s poorest residents. In the 1940s, only 20 or so houses dotted the hillside, but that number swelled dramatically at the beginning of the Korean War in 1950. War refugees fled their homes for the relative safety of Busan, the only area of the peninsula that remained free from fighting. Within a year, Busan’s population grew from 880,000 to 1.4 million people, and a half million homeless refugees needed a place to live–and fast. Approximately 4,000 people moved from the crowded port areas surrounding the Jagalchi Fish Market to nearby Gamcheon, erecting some 800 makeshift homes using scrap iron, wood and rocks. Those shanty homes were built up into the brick-and-concrete Lego-like houses that you see today partially thanks to a man named Chol-je Cho. Cho founded Taegukdo, a religion that believes that the Taeguk, or yin and yang symbol, represents the true meaning of life and the universe. Practicing again after persecution and suppression during the Japanese occupation, 36 HAPS_spring 2013

Cho and his followers converted nearly 90 percent of the refugees living in Gamcheon with their gifts of rice and candy. With this help, residents were then able to funnel their earnings into rebuilding, and in 1955 the area became known as the Taeguk Village when Cho moved the religion’s headquarters there. Although better established by the 1990s, Gamcheon and the Taeguk Village remained poorer than the rest of Busan, which busied itself by erecting skyscrapers and high-rises. In 2009, the Ministry of Culture, Sports, and Tourism stepped in with the Dreaming of Machu Picchu in Busan project. Reparations were made, artists were hired to paint murals and 10 artworks were installed, some created with the assistance of the residents. In 2010, the follow-up Miro Miro project saw the addition of 12 more works, including alley paintings and path markers perfectly suited to the project as miro means "maze" in Korean. These days, visitors can see trick art, sculpture, and even rooms or buildings remodeled around a singular art concept, such as the Book Cafe shaped like a giant coffee mug, or rooms interpreting themes such as "peace" or "darkness". While the village’s remaining 10,000 residents are now used to the influx of tourists, photographers and filmmakers, they are still wary of them, and many do not care to be the subject of photos. The village is open from 9:00 to 5:00, and is free of charge. For more information, and to buy the illustrated souvenir tourist map, you can head to the village’s Haneul Maru Tourist Information Center and Observatory, where you’ll also get a great view of the city.

Getting there: Take Line 1 to Toseong Station (토성역). Walk straight out Exit 8 following the road until you reach the bus shelter in front of the PNU Cancer Center. Take mini-bus 2 or 2-2 to the top and get off at Gamcheon Elementary School (감천초등학교).

ASK A LOCAL HAPS ASKS SOME SEASONED LOCALS ABOUT WHAT THEY LIKE ABOUT KOREA AND WHAT THEY WOULD RECOMMEND TO PEOPLE LIVING AND VISITING HERE. NAME: Jiyeong Kim OCCUPATION: Consul Assistant, Canadian Consulate RESIDENCE: Haeundae-Gu WHAT IS A PLACE TO SEE YOU WOULD RECOMMEND TO PEOPLE VISITING KOREA FOR THE FIRST TIME? Gyeongju. This city has the traditional scent of Korea, along with many historic places that tend to be very attractive tourist spots for people. WHERE IS YOUR FAVORITE PLACE TO EAT IN BUSAN? Moontan Road in Dalmaji, Haeundae-gu. There are various restaurants along there by the beautiful coastal walking path. You can have delicious food just before or after following the trail, and it’s wonderful. WHERE IS THE BEST PLACE TO ENJOY SPRING IN KOREA? Tongyoung. Enjoy spring at the Oriental Naples, Tongyoung. The Tongyoung International Music Festival will also give you a musical spring. WHERE IS THE BEST PLACE TO ENJOY THE NIGHTLIFE IN BUSAN? Gwangan Bridge gives you an unforgettable night view, and you can enjoy bands along Gwangalli Beach. Many restaurants, bars and coffee shops are also waiting for you. NAME: Kim Hye-sun OCCUPATION: Dental Coordinator RESIDENCE: Haeundae-Gu WHAT IS A PLACE TO SEE YOU WOULD RECOMMEND TO PEOPLE VISITING KOREA FOR THE FIRST TIME? I recently went to Dongpirang Wall Painting Village in Tongyoung. The sea was very beautiful and there were very good murals all over. It was really good. WHERE IS YOUR FAVORITE PLACE TO EAT IN BUSAN? Personally, I like to eat barbecued spicy eel (꼼장어구이), so I would recommend one of those restaurants in Haeundae. Although it’s a little spicy, if you taste it, you will love it. WHAT ARE YOUR PLANS FOR 2013? First of all, me and my family’s health, and then... Maybe get married? Haha. WHERE DO YOU THINK IS THE BEST PLACE FOR SHOPPING IN BUSAN? Department stores are good, but I think Nampo-dong is great to buy everything, and there are many street foods to try. I recommend everyone to go there once. 2013 spring_ busanhaps.com 37

Community Corner

58 YEARS OF LOVE FOR THOSE IN NEED BY ED PLOTT THOUGH THE SEASON IS PAST, HAPS WANTED TO RECOGNIZE SOMETHING THAT TRULY GIVES THE YEAR ROUND.

n September 1953, Mrs. Lee Kyong-sun founded the Miaewon Orphanage in Busan, providing support for 30 children who lost their parents due to the Korean War. The following year, Military Sealift Command Office (MSCO) Korea initiated a relationship with the Miaewon Orphanage and sponsored the first Christmas Party for the children. Over the years, the number of children grew to around 120 (1960-1970s) but has declined recently to 56 with children ranging from one to 17 years of age. On December 13, 2012, MSCO Korea and the United Seamen’s Service (USS) organized another Christmas Party for the Miaewon Orphanage, a tradition that has now spanned 58 uninterrupted years. The party was held at the USS Center currently located at Pier 3 in Busan’s North Harbor and was particularly memorable since four Military Sealift Command (MSC) ships participated in sponsoring and donating money and items for the children. Specifically, the USNS Wheeler, USNS Wally Schirra, USNS Red Cloud and MV Fisher were instrumental in the success of the event. MSCO Korea donated gifts of clothes (hoodies and pants) and snack bags which were given to the children by “Santa Claus”. Donations from the ships included a new 42-inch TV, a new Wii video game console, toys, dolls, wooly hats and pencils and lots of candy. Additionally, generous donations from MSCO Korea

HOW CAN YOU HELP? Are you looking to make a meaningful impact on the community? There are many options in Busan for those seeking to make a difference. Volunteering abroad has many benefits: from networking, finding a new hobby or interest, feeling a part of society, and of course, making a difference in the lives of those in need. For those looking to dedicate their time, Busan Volunteer is a great Facebook Group dedicated to informing people of volunteer opportunities—from orphanages, to women’s shelters and charity fundraisers amongst others. Enjoy the benefits and feel one of the most satisfying rewards in your life by giving a helping hand to those less fortunate. For more information, check out their Facebook Page at busanvolunteer. 38 HAPS_spring 2013

and the ships are being used to provide heating oil for the entire 2012-2013 winter season to make sure the Miaewon children and staff are kept warm and healthy during the cold weather. The children and staff were treated to pizza, hamburgers, french fries, drinks and other food items donated by the USS Center. Additionally, the children performed “Gangnam Style” dances before receiving their gifts from Santa. All in all, it was a very successful event, putting smiles on everyone’s faces and creating memories that will last for a long time. Throughout the years, MSCO Korea has funded and constructed a variety of buildings and projects for Miaewon to include living quarters, bathing facilities and a library. MSCO Korea, located on Pier 8 in Busan’s North Harbor, also sponsors ship visits, summer trips and other activities throughout the year. For instance, this summer MSCO Korea assisted in providing transportation for the children to attend a summer camp, a trip of over two hours west of Busan. However, MSCO Korea doesn’t do this alone. A multitude of businesses and organizations throughout Busan have been instrumental in providing funding and assistance in many different ways. The generosity and teamwork of both Koreans and Americans demonstrates how people of different international backgrounds are able to come together to help others and make the world a better place to live.

Ask an Expat

EXPAT EXTRACTS NAME: Amaj Rahimi Midani AGE: 21 HOMETOWN: Tehran, Iran OCCUPATION: PhD student HOW LONG IN KOREA? Three years WHAT BROUGHT YOU TO KOREA? I love studying. Also, I am crazy for learning new cultures and meeting new people. Challenge accepted and here I am. WHAT ARE SOME OF THE BIGGEST CULTURE DIFFERENCES BETWEEN YOUR COUNTRY AND KOREA? I think the biggest culture difference that I faced was the issue of defining respect in my culture and Korean culture. We have different definitions over it and that makes it hard to behave. MUST-SEE FOR NEW ARRIVALS: The UN cemetery is a good place to start with. Newcomers can understand the history of South Korea in an hour-long visit to this place. BEST PLACE TO GO EAT OR DRINK? I am a big fan of eating seafood, so Jagalchi Market is like a heaven for me. For drinking, I love bars like HQ, Eva’s, Almost Famous, Sharky’s and Ol’55. HOW MUCH LONGER DO YOU SEE YOURSELF STAYING IN KOREA? I need to finish my PhD, so I got two more years to stay here. What will happen in the future, I don’t know, but for sure will try to make the best out of my time here in Korea. NAME: Youssef Bizri AGE: 25 HOMETOWN: Cleveland, Ohio OCCUPATION: English teacher HOW LONG IN KOREA? Five months WHAT BROUGHT YOU TO KOREA? I’ve always wanted to travel and learn about different cultures. WHAT ARE SOME OF THE BIGGEST CULTURE DIFFERENCES BETWEEN YOUR COUNTRY AND KOREA? One if the biggest culture differences here would be the food. The food in Korea has definitely been different than back home! I love it though! It’s delicious and I find myself eating so many types of food here that I would never have encountered back home. MUST-SEE FOR NEW ARRIVALS: I’d have to say mountains! So many trails and so many amazing sites to see while hiking. Plus, it doesn’t get much better than some pajeon and magkeoli on the top of a mountain. BEST PLACE TO GO EAT OR DRINK? Eva’s in Kyungsung! I love the atmosphere there! They have some of the most amazing food, great drinks and an awesome staff. HOW MUCH LONGER DO YOU SEE YOURSELF STAYING IN KOREA? I’m planning on staying until August of 2013. I may stay longer but I haven’t decided yet. 2013 spring_ busanhaps.com 39

Home Cooking

THE DISH: BY JEN SOTHAM

SOUP’S ON!

WITH JUST ANOTHER MONTH OR SO OF COLD WEATHER AHEAD, HERE’S A PAIR OF HEARTY SOUP RECIPES TO HELP YOU ENDURE THAT FINAL PUSH. AND FOR OUR READERS WHO REQUESTED NON-OVEN RECIPES – THESE ARE STRICTLY STOVE TOP.

CREAM OF TOMATO, POTATO AND WHITE BEAN SOUP ACTIVE PREP/COOKING TIME: 30 minutes TOTAL COOKING TIME: 1 hour MAKES 4-6 SERVINGS INGREDIENTS: • 3 15oz. cans of whole peeled tomatoes • 1 can cannellini beans (Shinsegae Basement, specialty mart or SSG Mart Dongbaek) • 4 large potatoes, peeled and quartered • 2 250ml boxes of Maeil whipping cream (light blue and white box) • Fresh or dried dill • Fresh or dried parsley • Cooking oil • Salt and pepper

HEARTY BEEF STEW

ACTIVE PREP/COOKING TIME: 45 minutes TOTAL COOKING TIME: 2 hours MAKES 4-6 SERVINGS INGREDIENTS: • 800g of boneless sirloin (보섭살) or chuck (등심), boneless, cut into 1-inch cubes • 2 medium onions, chopped • 2 large carrots, peeled, washed and cut into ½-inch discs • 5 medium potatoes, peeled and cut into 1 inch squares • 2 cups water and 1 Beef Bouillon OR 2 cans Beef broth DIRECTIONS: Boil the quartered potatoes until you can easily stick a fork into • 1 bottle of beer (stout or pilsner) them. Set them in a colander in the sink. Heat about ½ cup of • 4 tablespoons of butter or margarine cooking oil in a thick, non-stick pot. Drain the canned tomatoes • Cooking oil and use your (clean) hands to pulverize each tomato into the • Fresh thyme and sage, chopped without stems pot. Let them simmer on a low heat for 10 minutes while you • 1 tsp cayenne pepper or chili powder puree the potatoes and cannellini beans in a blender or food • Salt and pepper processor. (If you don’t have one, use a potato masher). Add the • 1 cup grated Edam cheese puree to the pot, along with the heavy cream, a teaspoon each (can be found at Emart or Homeplus) of salt and black pepper and either a handful each of fresh dill and parsley or 2 tbsp each of dried herbs. Simmer on low heat DIRECTIONS: In a thick, non-stick pot, heat about a ½ cup of cooking oil. Coat for 15-20 more minutes. Tips: SSG Mart in the Marine City IPark building in Dongbaek has all the beef in a mix of salt and pepper. Brown the beef in small the fresh herbs mentioned in the above recipes. You can order the batches, then remove the beef from the pot and set it aside. dried herbs from iHerb.com, along with a lot of other goodies. Their Add the butter and onions. Cook on low heat, stirring often, prices and shipping costs are excellent, and they deliver within four until onions are translucent. Return the beef to the pot, along with the beer. Cook on medium heat for about ten minutes, days of placing your order. To give the tomato soup a nice kick, add ½ cup of Tesco New Mex- until the beer reduces. Add the water and bouillon or the beef broth. Simmer on low heat for 30 minutes. Add the carrots and ico Style Green Chile Salsa, available at Home Plus. Fauchon Bakery, located in the basement of Lotte Seomyeon, has potatoes, cayenne or chili powder and about a handful each of great loaves of sourdough bread for about W4,500, which would be sage and thyme. Cook for another 30-45 minutes, or until the a fantastic addition to either of the above recipes. If you want them vegetables are tender. Ladle the stew into bowls and garnish with grated cheese. to slice it, just ask! 40 HAPS_spring 2013

Dining & Food

DAL MI COCCO:

ITALIAN (AND A LITTLE FRENCH) BY HAL SWINDALL

LOOKING FOR SOME GOOD ITALIAN WITH A TOUCH OF FRENCH? DAL MI COCCO OFFERS A GREAT TASTE FROM THAT OTHER FAMOUS PENINSULA.

lready offering many international dining options, the Pusan National University area grew by one more just last August. Dal Mi Cocco, an Italian phrase meaning “at my friend’s place,” is owned by its chef, Yoon Ji-ae, who runs it with her French husband, Guillaume Trotignon, a Loire Valley native who is a professor of his country’s language at PNU. Yoon, who hails from Gwangju in Jeollanam-do, studied French and Italian cuisine in Italy, and, it must be said, really knows her stuff. Each dish is accompanied by a cup of homemade, warm and nourishing soup; however, despite her time abroad, Yoon is still Korean, so each dish includes a banchan of pickles as well— the only difference with other Korean restaurants is that there is an edible flower on top. Dal Mi Cocco is small and cozy, with ample lighting from its windows and a color scheme in bright white with yellow trim that adds to its warmth. The menu is not large, and the prices are medium, but the food does have some special features that make it worth trying. For one thing, Yoon makes all the pastas herself, by hand, including, to name a few, salmon, carbonara and lasagna. The pizzas are also handmade in the traditional Italian style, and include “spichick,” meaning spices and chicken, and patatina with potatoes and bacon. All pastas and pizzas range from 9-15,000 won, and come in modest but flavorful portions. The main Italian entrée is petto di pollo for 14,000 won.

THE MENU IS NOT LARGE, AND THE PRICES ARE MEDIUM, BUT THE FOOD DOES HAVE SOME SPECIAL FEATURES THAT MAKE IT WORTH TRYING. The French entrees include simple couscous and poulet coco. On Christmas Day, there is a coq au vin special. Along with the crème brulee, pies and meringues, the nicoise salad for 9,000 won completes the French offerings. A small range of French and Italian wines is available from 25-45,000 won. All the food at Dal Mi Cocco is natural-tasting and attractively presented— this is definitely not Pizza Hut! The most significant problem with this establishment is that it is located in a little alley that might be hard to find. Once you are there, however, knowing Dal Mi Cocco’s secret hideaway is part of its charm. Take line 1 to PNU’s subway station and go out of exit 3. Turn right and cross the street to the corner, then turn left and walk directly toward PNU’s main gate. At the one-way street right before the gate, cross to the Barbie shoe store and turn left. Walk with the traffic 30 meters to the alley beside Drop Top café and turn right. Dal Mi Cocco is ahead a dozen paces on the second floor. Abundanza!

2013 spring_ busanhaps.com 41

Music Scene

HAJIMAMA 2.0

BY EUGENE SMITH

ONE OF THE CITY’S OLDEST AND MOST POPULAR EXPAT ROCK GROUPS HANGS UP THEIR GUITARS THIS YEAR. WE TAKE A LOOK BACK AT HOW HAJIMAMA BECAME LOCAL MUSIC LEGENDS.

ajimama has become, without a doubt, one of Busan’s most recognisable bands. Since their debut gig on New Year’s Eve, 2007, they’ve put out two successful albums, toured all of South Korea and are one of the city’s only bands with the distinction of having their work covered by other expats. But transience is the nature of the beast in this music scene, and, despite their success, the band’s drummer, Andrew Kiely, has decided to leave the country, leaving Hajimama, as we know it, to reluctantly hang up their guitars. If you’ve ever heard a Hajimama song, you’d know it instantly. That’s their niche: a vast arsenal of original comedic lyrics, written by frontmen Collwyn Craig and Daniel Panozzo, that center on expat life in South Korea. They’re known for song topics like acquiring an F2-visa or early morning parties in PNU (while most of the crowd knows all the words), and their performances are always peppered by their tongue-in-cheek banter in Korean, English and Konglish. “Hajimama without the lyrics is like Facebook without friends,” summarized bassist Im Gook. The progression of Hajimama’s songs can be heard in the quality of their recorded albums. The raw sound of the group’s 2008 debut album, Banned from North Korea, represented their more improvised nature that leaned towards an open mic personality. Their second album, 2011’s Abandon Seoul, vastly contrasted this with a tight and polished sound. (This was partly due to the fact that original drummer Eddie Pauler left the country and took the original record with him, forcing the band to re-record it.) Panozzo feels that, in the process of evolving into a more professional band, Hajimama may have lost part of their charm but gained musical maturity. What was originally a band of simple three-note power chords had been replaced by complicated guitar riffs, bass slapping and drum solos. The band is currently recording their third and final album at Club Realize (whose professional engineers continue to tighten the band’s sound), which is due to be released later this year, to coincide with their final gig. Even though Hajimama as a full rocking band will draw to a close, the musical partnership of Craig and Panozzo, as well as 42 HAPS_spring 2013

their Hajimamam hits, will live on through the duo’s acoustic performances. And their outside projects have been thriving: Craig’s experimental guitar playing, as expressed in his recent Loops and Laptops group (which greatly influenced the sound of Hajimama’s later material), will take his musical priority, while Panozzo had already been a part of other Busan bands, including London Scat Party and Soonsu and in the Innocents. Hajimama have thrived because of how easily accessible they are for Korean audiences, and instantly relatable they are to foreigners with a little Korean language skill. At the heart of their music is comedy, but the band differs from many other comedians who satire expat life in South Korea. Lyrics like “Garlicbreathed, soju-drunk, subway ajeosshi,” may be rooted in a foreigner’s daily oddities, but rather than denouncing these aspects, Hajimama celebrates them. They champion memories of not knowing how long you’re supposed to hold an old man’s hand, or pondering whether the sexy being on a coffee advertisement is male or female. As one of the longest-running expat bands whose popularity has been propelled by purely original songs is an achievement that they should, and can, be proud of. Listen to their music at their Facebook page, www.facebook.com/ hajimamabusan.

Nightlife & Music

REVIEW: GINO BRANN`S

ANNAPURNA

BY GORDON BAZSALI, JR.

ANYONE FAMILIAR WITH BUSAN’S MUSIC SCENE OUGHT TO KNOW GINO BRANN, WHOSE LATEST ALBUM IS AS MUCH MEDITATION AS MUSIC. GORDON BAZSALI, JR. DELVES INTO ITS SPIRIT. Annapurna is an album of mantras, epiphanies and wordless contemplations. It manages to be intensely introspective while confiding intimately with the listener as with a friend, sharing a journey of self-discovery. Gino Brann, known as the frontman of local groove band Klickitat, here blends technical ability, stylistic eclecticism and lyrical grace in a beautiful and remarkably cohesive work. Every track makes you smile in a different way: sometimes thoughtfully, sometimes humorously, but always warmly. We begin with a countrified rock declaration of a need to untie the invisible knots that life tends to leave inside us (“Leeches”). The need for purge is immediate, expressed violently, which is uncharacteristic to the rest of the album: “Where’s the salt? / Where’s the matches? / Gonna burn these bastards down to ashes.” The first epiphany approaches the way one might hear the story of lessons learned at a Buddhist temple told upon return to the Grand Ole Opry (“At the Temple”). The album’s title refers to a major section of the Himalayan mountain range in Nepal, where many of the foundation elements (usually guitars) were recorded. “The View from Sarangkot” employs Indian sitar phrases combined with drop D blues licks, while in “Those Eyes”, West

African rhythms are mixed with gospelish choirs that Nick Cave might envy. Brann’s reggae (“Day 8, No Yeti”), funk and jazz explorations (“Dog vs. Monkey”) seep in but never is the continuity of the overall work compromised. Moreover, the track sequence alternates between vocals and instrumentals throughout, allowing the discoveries of the previous songs to sink in and percolate in the mind, as if to invite the listener to take a moment to think on the material presented. Brann enlists the supportive talent of friends, each currently active in their own projects on stages across Busan, including Jim Batcho, Mike Edmunds, Anthony Garcia, Michael Laveck, Violet Lea, Melanie Lenau and Kelsey L. Smith. But the real jewel here is “The Enlightened One”, just before the end. Here, Brann’s songwriting skill is most vividly realized in the story of how a critical connection at a low point along the spiritual path is made: “No matter what you believe / when you’re on top of the world, baby / it’s a miracle just to breathe.” The moment of truth is revealed in the chorus, at which point a sudden hush and thinning of the texture (atmosphere?) has the impact of thunder. Silence, here, becomes an instrument of considerable emotional force. Shortly after, it is ex-

MASSIVE CHORAL BUSAN INTERNATIONAL FOREIGN SCHOOL TO HOST ASIA`S MOST PRESTIGIOUS YOUTH MUSICAL EVENT Busan International Foreign School has been granted the honor of hosting this year’s prestigious International Schools Choral Music Society Festival from February 20th through the 24rd here in Busan. The annual event will include performances from students all over Asia, and has been dubbed this year as MASSive. This year’s program will feature newly commissioned work by Leeds University music head, Paul Barker, as well as a performance of the winning entry in The Jenkins Award for young composers—The Hollow Men by the talented young tenor, John Hui. Last year’s ISCMS festival, entitled Lumen, attracted more than 500 students and teachers from 26 International Schools—a testament to the increasing popularity of the event According to O’Shea the ISCMS Festival’s primary goal is to create an environment for promoting and nurturing the immense

plained; “I was a man of silence / I was a man of dreams / but only men of violence / they have the loudest screams.” Everything heard here is distilled to its purest essence. The instrumentation and arrangements are uncluttered by anything extraneous; not a single note in a guitar solo is out of place. Little is added for effect, nothing for flash. Michael Laveck’s (Mica Mountain Works) recording style is warm, intimate and plainly gorgeous. The employment of instruments is minimal, while Brann’s voice is the perfect vehicle for lyrics so thoughtful and grounded. The tone is fresh and mellow, the tempi sober and measured. The composer becomes the sculptor releasing the form from the block. The album’s titular track brings it to a close with a cool confidence reminiscent of James Taylor, breaking out upon vocal treatments (Violet Lea and Kelsey L. Smith) that reveal the artist’s background in classical music. Finally, release comes as if coming out of meditation, easing your eyes open to see the world anew. The album aims to cleanse, purify and refresh, and, as it is with all good art, when we come down from the mountain, we are transformed. You can check out Annapurna at ginobrann.bandcamp.com

pool of talented young musical artists around the world. “The ISCMS Festival is only the first step in the development of a one stop Society where all music needs can be met, from Jazz to Pianists, from Choral to Orchestral and Composers to Rock, all collaborating in a unique and innovative way completely new to the Asia Pacific region.” The event will culminate in a gala performance at the Busan Cultural Centre, and is viewed by festival organizers here as an excellent opportunity to showcase Busan as an international music hub. Busan International Foreign School principal, Stephen Palmer, expressed great enthusiasm about the opportunity to host this year’s festival here in Busan. “ISCMS is one of the most respected events of its kind and it will be my pleasure to be able to welcome such a wealth of talented students to the city of Busan,” said Palmer. “Over the coming months, everyone at BIFS is committed to providing a wonderful opportunity to all those involved.” For more info you can visit the ISCMS website at: www.iscms.net Contact information for purchasing tickets: Phone 051-742-3332 / Email: enquiries@bifskorea.org 2013 spring_ busanhaps.com 43

Hotel Directory & News

HOTEL GUIDE AND NEWS

LOOKING FOR A PLACE TO STAY WHEN VISITING BUSAN? FIND IT WITH THE HAPS HOTEL DIRECTORY, YOUR LOCAL ENGLISH GUIDE TO ACCOMODATION IN THE CITY. HAEUNDAE THE WESTIN CHOSUN tel: 82-51-749-7000 web: www.echosunhotel.com Do it right and crash in the same room George W. Bush did. PARADISE HOTEL tel: 82-51-742 2121 web: www.paradisehotel.co.kr On the water, with a casino, excellent spa and a pool. SEACLOUD HOTEL tel: 82-51-933-1000 web: www.seacloudhotel.com Luxury stay with great restaurants. Short walk to the beach. CENTUM HOTEL tel: 82-51-720-9000 web: www.centumhotel.co.kr Near Shinsegae and BEXCO. Good subway access. SUNSET HOTEL tel: 82-51-730-9900 web: www.sunsethotel.co.kr Seventy-two rooms with, according to the site, “individual design concepts”. NOVOTEL AMBASSADOR tel: 82-51-743-1234 web: www.novotelbusan.com On the beach. Great ocean view, Murpii Nightclub. GRAND HOTEL tel: 82-51-740-0610 web: www.grandhotel.co.kr One of the cheaper spots on the strip, but still at the beach. HOTEL ILLUA tel: 82-51-744-1331 web: www.hotelillua.com Lovely hotel with stunning views from its perch on Dalmaji Hill. HANWHA RESORT tel: 82-1588-2299 web: www.hanwharesort.co.kr Beautiful views of Oryukdo, the bridge and close to the beach. PARK HYATT BUSAN tel: 82-51-990-1234 web: busan.park.hyatt.com Five star quality hotel with stunning views and service.

SEOMYEON LOTTE HOTEL tel: 82-51-810-1000 web: www.lottehotelbusan.com Lotte runs a tight ship and it shows in the generous customer service here. 44 HAPS_spring 2013

TOYOKO INN tel: 82-51-442-1045 web: www.toyoko-inn.com Across from Migliore, comfortable, clean and affordable. CROWN HOTEL tel: 82-51-635-1241 web: www.fnetravel.com/english/pusanhotels/crown.html Mid-range hotel decorated in Korean style, good for travellers.

GWANGALLI HOMERS HOTEL tel: 82-51-750-8000 web: www.homershotel.com Right on Gwangalli Beach amidst the myriad of cafes, bars and restaurants. AQUA PALACE tel: 82-51-756-0202 web: www.aquapalace.co.kr Beautiful view of the Diamond Bridge, right in the middle of the beach.

JUNG-GU COMMODORE HOTEL tel: 82-51-461-9703 web: www.commodore.co.kr Beautifully designed traditional hotel. Close proximity to Busan Station. BUSAN TOURIST HOTEL tel: 82-51-241-4301 web: www.pusanhotel.co.kr Conveniently located next to the train station. Good for a cheap night’s rest. TOYOKO INN tel: 82-51-442-1045 web: www.toyoko-inn.com Affordably priced hotel, clean and 10 minutes away from the train station. PHOENIX HOTEL tel: 82-51-245-8061 web: www.hotelphoenix.net Highly trained staff, close to Nampodong. Popular with Japanese tourists. ELYSEE HOTEL tel: 82-51-241-4008 web: www.elyseemotel.com Affordable hotel with good amenities. Close to Nampo-dong.

BUSAN STATION GUKJE HOTEL tel: 82-51-642-1330 web: www.hotelkukje.com About 3 km away from the train station, close to Citizen’s Hall. TOYOKO INN tel: 82-51-442-1045 web: www.toyoko-inn.com

The second location, this one is a minute away from the train station.

OTHER AREAS PARAGON HOTEL [Sasang-gu] tel: 82-51-328-2001 web: www.hotelparagon.com Business comfort, with close proximity to Gimhae International Airport. BUSAN CENTRAL HOTEL [Yeonsan-dong] tel: 82-51- 866-6225 web: www.centralhotel.co.kr Adjacent to Yeonsan rotary, located 10 minutes away from City Hall. HOTEL NONG SHIM [Oncheonjeong] tel: 82-51-550-2100 web: www.hotelnongshim.com Great area around the hotel. Head north to PNU for original Busan nightlife.

BUDGET BUSAN YOUTH HOSTEL ARPINA [Haeundae] tel: 82-51-731-9800 web: www.arpina.co.kr Opened in 2004, a cheap place to stay for the night. Culture center inside. GOODSTAY THE PLANET GUESTHOUSE [Haeundae] tel: 010-2780-6350 web: www.earthlinghome.com Women-only dormitory across from Haeundae Beach in the Crystal Beach Office Tel. INDY HOUSE [Kyungsung Uni] tel: 82-70-8615-6442 Super cheap, dorm-style room right in the heart of Kyungsung. MARUB GUEST HOUSE [Haeundae] tel: 010-6322-3194 web: www.marubee.com Well-placed near restaurants, commercial area in Haeundae. POBI GUEST HOUSE [Haeundae] tel: 051-746-7990 web: www.guesthousekoreabusan.com Renovated guest houses three minutes from Haeundae Beach. SUM GUEST HOUSE tel: 070-8837-0700 web: www.sumhostel.com Renovated in 2011, they guarantee guests a pleasant stay whether in Busan for business or pleasure. HELLO GUEST HOUSE [Haeundae] tel: 051-746-8590 web: www.facebook.com/helloguesthousehello Friendly, clean and cozy atmosphere. Outdoor patio for your enjoyment.

HI KOREA HOSTEL tel: 070-4409-3132 web: www.hikoreahostel.com email: hikoreahostel@gmail.com Your home away from home, Hi Korea Hostel offers you an affordable and comfortable accommodation just a stone’s throw away from Haeundae Beach.

Accomodation Guide

PARADISE HOTEL

1408-5, Jung Dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan ph. 051-742-2121 web. www.paradisehotel.co.kr

Enjoy some delectable Korean food at Kaya, the hotel’s Korean traditional restaurant, which is offering a special gourmet course for 91,000 won until February 28. Dine in style while enjoying the fresh taste of Gyeongsang-do cuisine from master chef Tak Seung-chul.

HOTEL NONGSHIM

23, Geumganggongwon-ro 20 beon-gil, Dongnae-gu, Busan ph. 051-550-2100 web. www.hotelnongshim.com

Rejuvenate your feet at the Hotel Nongshim’s newest addition, The Foot Spa. Located on the third floor, experience the healing hands of professional foot care specialists who will accelerate blood pressure and metabolism, while at the same time reliev- NOVOTEL AMBASSADOR 1405-16 Jung-dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan ing stress. ph. 051-746-8481 web. www.novotelbusan.com

The Terrace Cafe situated on the lobby floor of the hotel is offering a free Americano coffee with the purchase of their scrumptious Hot Noodle dish. The offer is valid until the end of February and the restaurant is open from 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily.

LOTTE HOTEL

772 Gayadae-ro, Jin-gu, Busan ph. 051-810-1000 web. www.lottehotelbusan.com

Enjoy a Venezia Gourmet Course lunch or dinner set at the hotel’s first floor La Seine Wine and Dining. Starting from 59,000 won for lunch and 91,000 won for dinner, you can enjoy a delicious meal with five sets to choose from through February 28.

SEACLOUD HOTEL

WESTIN CHOSUN

Enjoy a cocktail or snack on the fourth floor of the Seacloud Hotel’s Theus restaurant. Opening at 6 a.m. for breakfast, it turns into a wine bar come evening until it closes for the night at 10 p.m. and offers splendid views of the city nightscape.

Enjoy a night’s stay as The Westin Chosun is promoting their “I Love Westin, I Love Green” promotion through the end of this year. Pending your choice of options, you can pamper yourself with the Executive Suite which gives a night full of luxurious amenities and discounts for you and your loved one.

287 Haeundaehaebyun-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan ph. 051-933-1000 web. www.seacloudhotel.com

67, Dongbaek-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan ph. 051-749-7000 web. www.echosunhotel.com

2013 spring_ busanhaps.com 45

Nightlife & Dining Directory

GWANGALLI BEACH BIKINI [Lounge/Beer Bar] Spacious club with dancing and such. BEACHED CAFE AND SPORTS BAR [Kiwi Sports Bar] open: 6pm - late tel: 051-924-9662 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ beached-cafe-sports-bar Recently renovated, this Kiwi-run sports bar has gained a huge expat following in the first year of existence for its spectacular bridge view, delicious menu and its wide array of Kiwi beer, the only place in the city to boast such a claim. Rugby is the sport of choice on the TV for the punters. BELLA CITTA [Italian] tel: 051-711-0010 web: www.busanhaps.com/food/bellacitta-italian Italian restaurant with an incredible interior, top notch menu and indoor garden seating. BURGER AND PASTA [International] open: 11am - 2am tel: 051-751-6631 web: www.busanhaps.com/food/burgerand-pasta-gwangan The second of the Burger and Pasta shops around the city, this international eatery offers a great view of the bridge while you enjoy your day on the sand. Burgers, pasta and brunch are on the menu in the stylishly decorated restaurant in the middle of the main drag of Gwangalli Beach. FOUR SEASONS [Raw Fish Korean] English speaking owner, 2nd fl. Fish Market. FUZZY NAVEL- MILLAK [Food/Bar] open: 11am - 6am tel: 051-754-6349 web: www.fncompany.co.kr It has fabulous views of Gwangalli Beach. Facing the Diamond Bridge, come enjoy a drink and some tacos on our patio. Great staff serve fresh made Mexican cuisine and will mix up your favorite cocktail. FUZZY NAVEL- GWANGALLI [Bar] open: 7pm - 6am web: www.fncompany.co.kr Located on the ground floor, offering a great view of the beach and bridge. Friendly staff serve excellent cocktails at the vintage-looking bar. Make sure you take advantage of the outside seating in the summertime. GINZA [Japanese] tel: 051-751-7077 Pricey, but good quality food. GUESS WHO RESTAURANT [International] tel: 051-757-1213 Always busy with a nice patio deck. 46 HAPS_spring 2013

PARIS CAFE [International] Half coffee shop, half bar. Food is good too. PASTA E VINO [Italian] tel: 051-746-2500 Intimate beachside spot with good Italian cuisine. SAIGON PHO [Vietnamese] tel: 051-755-4205 Has been serving up Phở, the Vietnamese noodle soup since 1997. One of the few non-chain Vietnamese spots in town. Look for the big yellow sign, across the street from the Starbucks. SHARKY’S [American Sports Bar] open: 6pm weekdays, 2pm weekends tel: 010-4038-2907 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ sharkys-bar Sharky’s brought “California cool” to Gwangalli this summer, as the newest Sharky’s opened to great reviews and a killer view of the bridge. Indulge in their ever-expanding menu while enjoying a cocktail in a cool, comfortable environment. Great deals on dinner specials nightly, and they have the best shuffleboard table in town. SHIM HAE RAW FISH MARKET [Korean] tel: 051-753-6868 Everything seafood, all in one place THURSDAY PARTY [Korean/Expat Bar] open: 6pm - late web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ thursday-party A summer staple on Gwanganlli Beach for the past couple of summers, Thursday Party has two locations situated next to each other on the east side of the beach. Both bars are similar to the Thursday Party city-wide theme, and offer a variety of American style pub grub to tempt your palate. WA BAR [Beer Bar] Wide selection of beer laid out for your choosing.

HAEUNDAE AN GA [Korean] tel: 051-742-7852 Very popular bbq meat restaurant in Haeundae. BILLIE JEAN [Lounge/Live Music] tel: 051-742-0297 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ billiejean A Haps favorite. Great decor. Ladies drink for free Thursday nights. BURGER AND PASTA [International] open: 11am - 2am web: www.busanhaps.com/food/burgerand-pasta-haeundae Recently opened, this Western/ Korean fusion style restaurant has been packing them in since day one. Burgers, pasta and brunch are on the

menu in the stylishly decorated restaurant, where you can also imbibe yourself to a glass of wine, a cocktail or beer after your day on the beach. CHEOLMA HANWOO BULGOGI [Korean] tel: 051-709-4000 Bulgogi done at its best. CINE DE CHEF [Italian] tel: 051-745-2880 In Shinsegae, enjoy a good meal and a movie. CLUB ELUNE [Nightclub] Busan’s super club. A must see at least once. EL OLIVE [Italian] tel: 051-752-7300 Delicious Italian, close to Costco. FUZZY NAVEL [Food/Bar] open: 11am - 6am tel: 051-746-6439 web: www.fncompany.co.kr Great location set on two floors near the beach, other bars, and clubs. Amazing Mexican food is served from lunchtime until the early hours of the morning. Friendly staff and outside seating makes Fuzzy Navel a place to hit when the weather is good. GANGA [Indian] Expect to pay some good money, but it’s worth it. GECKOS [Pub] Beach front bar. Consistently good food. GEN SUSHI [Japanese] tel: 051-740-6630 Affordable sushi. Good stuff. HELLO THAI [Thai] tel: 051-731-5033 Good Thai food in the heart of Haeundae. HQ JANGSAN [American Sports Bar] Great bar to get your drink on with some wings. LOCANDA ROSSI [Italian] open: 12pm - 3pm, 6pm - 10pm, Closed Monday tel: 051-744-8807 web: www.locandarossi.com Located in the upscale Zenith Square Building in Marine City, Chef Federico Rossi, the ex-executive chef of the Paradise Hotel specializes in offering an authentic taste of Italy in a contemporary and casual trattoria style restaurant. Enjoy remarkably and inspired prepared dishes using the freshest ingredients with an extensive wine list. LOVING HUT [Vegetarian] tel: 051-747-2979 web: www.lovinghut.co.kr All organic, all good. Veggie paradise. MAKTUM [Nightclub] If Elune is packed, head to Maktum. MARIS [Buffet]

tel: 051-704-8870 Great seafood buffet. Across from Primus in Jangsan. MIAMI 88 [Lounge Bar] Behind the BMW building. Good service. MURPII [Nightclub] In the Novotel. Dancing, drinking, business class. NAMASTE [Indian] tel: 051-746-1946 Indian fine dining. Good prices and great food. PHO KIM [Vietnamese] tel: 051-740-4868 Good food at a good price. Great soup, located in SFUNZ. ROCK N’ ROLL HOUSE [Casual Lounge] Great atmosphere. Two pool tables, great view. SHARKY’S [American Sports Bar] open: 6pm weekdays, 2pm weekends tel: 010-4038-2907 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ sharkys-bar This San Diego-inspired bar has become a fixture of the Haeundae Beach renowned for its Big Boy Burgers, Authentic Mexican and Killer Steaks. It’s a comfortable and unpretentious atmosphere that is family friendly but still caters to business travelers and locals. Located on the second floor of the Pale de CZ (right next to Paradise Hotel). It’s hard to find but worth it if you do! STARFACE [International Pub] tel: 051-742-0600 open: 6pm - late web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ starface SUNTORY [Japanese] Food and drink in a classy setting. Bonzai! TAP AND TAPAS [Spanish] open: 3pm-5am tel: 051-746-6318 web: www.tapntapas.com Recently opened, Tap and Tapas serves up high quality, well-presented Spanish cuisine in a striking new setting in Haeundae. With an extensive menu of upscale cocktails and a tap room, it’s a great place to meet for an informal meeting, or out for a night on the town to impress. T.G.I. FRIDAY’S [Chain] tel: 051-740-6531 Good reliable chain in the Harbor Town Building. THE WOLFHOUND PUB [Irish Pub] open: 6pm - 2am weekdays, 11am - 2am weekends tel: 051-746-7940 web: www.wolfhoundpub.com No city in the world would be complete without an Irish pub, and the Wolf is Busan’s homage to Dublin.

Dining & Food Wooden table seating with subtle lighting make this pub a relaxed place to grab a drink, watch some rugby and grab some sumptuous international cuisine. The “No Bullshit Pour” policy is a good indicator for the strength of their drinks. THURSDAY PARTY [Korean/Expat Bar] tel: 051-744-6621 open: 6pm - late web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ thursday-party A staple of the Busan landscape, Thursday Party Haeundae offers a casual, yet comfortable option after a day at the beach. With a patio for outdoor sitting, this open-aired spacious pub brings the usual quality service the locals and expats have come to expect from the Thursday Party empire. U2 BAR [Lounge] Great place to chill, awesome service, a Haeundae institution.t VAN GOGH TERRACE [Italian] tel: 051-741-3767 Nice view of the water while you eat.

catwalk on sunny days. CAFE RADIO [Cafe] Great atmosphere. Relax with a book. CALIFORNIA BURRITO [Mexican] open: Mon-Thu 11am-10pm, Fri-Sat 11am-10pm, Sun 12pm-9pm tel: 051-612-2828 The newest addition to the Mexican food landscape, the large, spacious homestyle restaurant is easily the largest in the city offering Mexican staples, including their signature burrito. The relaxed atmosphere, extensive food and drinks menu, and reasonable prices have made it a must stop on a visit to Kyungsung CLUB FABRIC [Rock/Event] Live music, warm cozy decor. EVAS [International/Lounge] Been around awhile, and still packs them in.

KYUNGSUNG ALMOST FAMOUS [Dance/Techno] Funky atmosphere, great staff, live music. AUSSIE BURGER [International] Burgers, fries and Aussie pies. AYUTA [Indian] Friendly staff, good food. BEIJING GO-CHI [Chinese] Great skewers, great food, cheap prices. BLUE MONKEY [Dance/Hip Hop] open: 7pm to late tel. 051-611-2888 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ blue-monkey With its illuminative and decorative style, Blue Monkey has impressive DJ sets on the weekend, and doubles as more of a lounge-style chill vibe during the weekdays. With an impressive menu and a booming sound system, ladies can also drink half price from 7 - 9 p.m. BON BON [Italian] tel: 051-621-0906 Great little spot next to Kyungsung U. BURGER AND PASTA [International] open: 11am - 11pm tel: 051-625-6651 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ burger-pasta With three locations around Busan, Burger and Pasta offer solid menu, and reasonable prices that make them a hit with young Koreans and expats. Set in the traditional Thursday Party wooden decor, they offer pasta, burgers and a brunch with a small patio to enjoy the street

FULLY BOOKED [Cafe/Bar] open: Tues-Thurs 7pm - 12am, Fri 7pm 1am, Sat 2pm - 2am, Sun 2pm - 12am tel. 070-8170-9628 web: www.busanhaps.com/fullybooked We are Busan’s first boutique bar run by expats. We serve great beer and wine at reasonable prices. We also serve 3 kinds of fresh panini: Caprese, Chicken Pesto, and Cuban Dijon. Furthermore, we provide a non-smoking environment for you to peruse our used-books or enjoy one of our many board games. HQ BAR [American/Sports Bar] tel. 010-2857-2367 Where the real mean go to drink and BS. KINO EYE [Dance Club] Dark atmosphere. Live music on occasion. MONK’S JAZZ CLUB [Jazz Club] Busan’s only jazz club. Tuesday nights are hot.

O’TACO [Mexican] open: 11 a.m. - 10 p.m. daily tel: 051-627-8358 web: www.busanhaps.com/otaco Kyungsung’s original Mexican restaurant, O’Taco, has become a staple for those looking to get their Mexican food fix. Using only the finest and freshest ingredients, this must-try eatery has indoor and patio seating, as well as a daily lunch special and extensive menu at affordable prices. Open daily. OL’ 55 [Live Music/Event] tel: 051-627-5645 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ ol’55 Ol’55 is located in the heart of Kyungsung University and is noted for its Open Mic Wednesdays, which are known to host the best Korean and expat musicians in town. PAINTED CHAIR CAFE [Cafe/Gallery] The art, the atmosphere. Good place to chill. SHABANA [Indian] tel: 051-621-4821 Good, affordable Indian food. THE SUSHI [Japanese] tel: 051-611-4043 Affordable, quality Japanese food. THURSDAY PARTY [Korean/Expat Bar] open: 6pm - late web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ thursday-party2 With ten Thursday Party’s around the city, it has become a staple for the young, hip Korean university crowd and expats alike. Beer pong, sports on TV and the free curry popcorn or salted spaghetti sticks are always in play, as is a busy crowd almost every evening of the week. VINYL UNDERGROUND [Nightclub/Event Bar] www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/vinyl Vinyl Underground is known as the spot for live music in the Kyungsung area.

PNU CROSSROADS [Live Music/Pub] open: 7pm-late tel: 051-515-1181 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ crossroads A small, but atmospheric watering hole in PNU, Crossroads has been a Busan institution amongst the expats for years. The subtly-lit second floor venue has a Happy Hour on offer every day from 7pm to 8pm on gin, vodka and rum mixes, and a Ladies Night Friday, for singles to meet other singles. FARMERS BURGERS [American/Korean Fusion]

People rave about it. Nominated in Best Burger. GANESH [Indian] Small spot with good Indian fare on the menu. INTERPLAY [Live Music/Event] Live music, hit or miss if you catch on a good night. LOVING HUT [Vegetarian] www.lovinghut.co.kr tel: 051-518-0115 MOO MONK [Live Music] Can catch some great Korean indie bands here. PACO TACO [Mexican] open: 7pm - late, Closed Mondays The newest Mexican restaurant to hit the city, Paco Taco resides in Kebabistan’s old digs in the heart of PNU. Nightly specials add to the fun in Busan’s first tequila pub which serves up mojitos, green iguanas, margaritas, tacos, burritos, and tostadas amongst others. PHO [Vietnamese] Nice Vietnamese food in PNU. RED BOTTLE [Korean/Expat Bar] Good spot to get a drink, and play some darts. SHABANA [Indian] tel: 051-517-1947 Nice Indian food for cheap. SOULTRANE [Comedy/Event/Rock] tel: 051-515-1181 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ soul-trane One of the oldest expat bars in the city, the once foreigner oriented Soultrane nonetheless draws a healthy mix of locals, expats and tourists. THE BASEMENT [Korean/Expat Bar] web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ basement One of the most popular bars in the area. Always a great time, and anchors the PNU scene.

SEOMYEON BUFFALO CHICKEN [Chicken] tel: 051-805-3512 Good chicken chain with several interesting sauces. BUONA OVEN PIZZA [Italian] tel: 051-904-8239 Nice, oven-baked pizza and spaghetti. CLUB FIX [Nightclub] tel: 051-905-5777 web: www.clubfixkorea.info New super club. International DJs and dress code required. DIVISION 9 [Lounge] Pinball, darts, basketball, drinking and good fun. NIGHTLIFE & DINING DIRECTORY CONTINUED

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Services Directory NIGHTLIFE & DINING DIRECTORY CONTINUED DRAGON DREAM (THE CAVE BAR) [Korean] tel: 051-646-5924 Very interesting decor with a nice selection of food. FLORIAN’S [Italian] Buffet with a wide selection of dishes. FOXY DANCE [Club] Dance club, usually packed on the weekend. FRESH FRIES FACTORY [International] Some good fish n’ chips and other tasty foods. FUZZY NAVEL- SEOMYEON I [Food/Bar] open: 5pm - 6am tel: 051-808-1007 web: www.fncompany.co.kr Check out the newly refurbished bar offering a variety of entertainment including, soft darts, pool, and table soccer. Awesome DJs and a wide floor make this place to be at night. Also, new to Seomyeon, the same amazing Mexican food as served at the Haeundae Fuzzy Navel is prepared in our large renovated kitchen. FUZZY NAVEL- SEOMYEON Il [Bar] open: 5pm - 6am tel: 051-817-2242 web: www.fncompany.co.kr On the ground floor with a sliding window for when the weather is good, an excellent mix of Koreans and foreigners makes this a good place to make new friends. A comfortable atmosphere, where you will be looked after by the friendly staff, who will even give you a fireshow if you are celebrating a special occasion. JUDIE NINE BRAU [Brew Pub] Good place for home-brewed beer. LOVING HUT [Vegetarian] tel: 051-808-7718 www.lovinghut.co.kr ROCK N’ ROLL BAR [Rock] A true dive. Good atmosphere and pool and darts. T.G.I. FRIDAY’S [Chain] tel: 051-805-3164 Two locations in Seomyeon to choose from. THE SPOT [Lounge/Bottle Service] Bottle service, recently under renovations. THURSDAY PARTY [Korean/Expat Bar] open: 6pm - late tel: 051-818-6621 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ thursday-party-1 You can expect more of the same from the Seomyeon Thursday Party, which caters to a young, eclectic mix of Koreans and expats. 48 HAPS_spring 2013

Nestled amongst a slew of bars and restaurants behind Judie’s Taewha, Thursday Party stands out for their unique charm, quality service and hip atmosphere amongst the Korean cool. VITO [Italian] tel: 051-806-5868 web: www.busanhaps.com/food/vito Fashioned in the tradition of the small Italian trattoria, Vito brings back a taste of the old country.

NAMPO ARUN THAI [Thai] open: 11a.m. - 10 p.m. tel: 051-908-9085 web: www.facebook.com/arunthai.kr The chefs at Arun Thai bring you succulently prepared authentic Thai dishes at very reasonable rates. This delightful restaurant, nestled on the second floor some 50m in the back alleyway next to KFC, is a great meeting place, whether for a light lunch or large-scale dinner in a stylish environment with friendly service. FARMERS BURGERS [International] Enjoy a quality, fresh-made burger and fries on the roof. KUHN [Asian] Hosts a variety of Southeast Asian dishes at good prices.

than the others around the city, though by no means is it less exciting. A slightly more mixed crowd of expats and young Koreans is to be expected, as well as the great service that TP has become renowned for.

SERVICES DIRECTORY AIRLINES AIR BUSAN tel: 051-974-8686 web: www.busanair.com ASIANA AIRLINES - DOMESTIC tel: 051-972-4004 web: www.flyasiana.com ASIANA AIRLINES - INTERNATIONAL tel: 051-971-2626 web: www.flyasiana.com CEBU PACIFIC AIR tel: 051-462-0686 web: www.cebupacificair.com JEJU AIR tel: 070-7420-1502 web: www.jejuair.net KOREAN AIR - INTERNATIONAL tel: 051-970-3227 web: www.koreanair.com LUFTHANSA tel: 02-2019 0180 web: www.lufthansa.com KLM ROYAL DUTCH AIRLINES tel: 02-3483-1133 web: www.klm.com

BUSINESS ORGANIZATIONS

NEW LITTLE INDIA [Indian] open: 11am- 10pm tel: 051-245-4127 web: www.busanhaps.com/food/newlittle-india Situated on the second floor in the heart of Nampodong, New Little India specializes in the finest authentic Indian cuisine. The elegantlystyled interior and superior service complements the remarkably fresh ingredients on their vast menu. A great destination for those looking to enjoy a fine meal at affordable prices and a quiet ambiance. THE PAN [Brunch] Nestled amongst a slew of outdoor terrace restaurants. THURSDAY PARTY [Korean/Expat Bar] open: 6pm - late web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ thursday-party-1 The Thursday Party Nampo store offers a slightly varied atmosphere

AMCHAM #4501, Trade Tower 159-1, Samsungdong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul tel: 02-564-2040 web: www.amchamkorea.org An independent association of American and international businesses, the role of the American Chamber of Commerce is to promote business and trade between the United States and Korea. EUCCK 102-2903 WBC The Palace 1523, Haeundae-gu tel: 051-959-9695 web: www.ecck.eu The European Chamber of Commerce aims to provide an effective network of business associates together with discussion forums and seminars on how to do business in Korea, as well as an array of social networking events.

EDUCATION FOREIGN SCHOOLS BUSAN FOREIGN SCHOOL 1366-3 Jwa-dong, Haeundae-gu

tel: 051-747-7199 web: www.busanforeignschool.org BUSAN JAPANESE SCHOOL 173-8 Millak-dong, Suyoung-gu tel: 051-753-4166 web: user.chollian.net/~pusjpnsc BUSAN OVERSEAS CHINESE KINDERGARTEN 548-1 Choryang-dong, Dong-gu tel: 051-468-2845 web: kbces.com.ne.kr INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF BUSAN 798 Nae-ri, Gijang-eup, Gijang-gun tel: 051-742-3332 web: www.bifskorea.org

TESOL TRAINING KOTESOL Email: bgkotesol@gmail.com Facebook: Busan-Gyeongnam KOTESOL Chapter TESOL ALLIANCE tel: 051-818-0502 web: www.tesolalliance.com

KOREAN LESSONS BUSAN FOUNDATION FOR INTERNATIONAL ACTIVITIES tel: 051-668-7900 web: www.bfia.or.kr email: busanglobalcenter@gmail.com KLIFF tel: 051-513-0131 web: www.kliff.co.kr email: jennakang@hanmail.net PNU LANGUAGE EDUCATION CENTER tel: 051-510-1983 web: www.ili.pusan.ac.kr email: bangjy77@pusan.ac.kr

INFORMATION EXPAT ASSISTANCE CALL CENTER FOR FOREIGN RESIDENTS IN BUSAN tel: 1577-7716 FREE TRANSLATION SERVICE (BBB) tel: 1588-5644 MULTICULTURAL FAMILY SUPPORT CENTER tel: 1577-5432

INFORMATION CENTERS TOURIST INFORMATION SERVICE tel: 1330 BEXCO TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER tel: 051-740-7300 BUSAN GLOBAL CENTER tel: 1577-7716 BUSAN INT’L PASSENGER TERMINAL TOURIST INFORMATION

tel: 051-465-3471 BUSAN STATION TOUR INFORMATION tel: 051-441-6565 GIMHAE INT’L AIRPORT TOUR INFORMATION (DOMESTIC) tel: 051-973-4607 GIMHAE INT’L AIRPORT TOUR INFORMATION (INTERNATIONAL) tel: 051-973-2800 HAEUNDAE TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER tel: 051-749-5700 INTERNATIONAL FERRY INFORMATION CENTER tel: 051-465-3471 NOPODONG BUS TERMINAL TOURIST INFORMATION tel: 051-508-9400 UN MEMORIAL CEMETERY TOURIST INFORMATION tel: 051-625-1608

MEDICAL HEALTH CENTERS DONGNAE HEALTH CENTER 702-54, Myeongryun-2 dong, Dongnae-gu tel: 051-555-4000 HAEUNDAE HEALTH CENTER 1339, Jwa-2 dong, Haeundae-gu tel: 051-746-4000 JUNG-GU HEALTH CENTER 1 Ga 1, Daecheong-dong, Jung-gu tel: 051-600-4741

HERBAL CLINICS

DONGEUI UNIVERSITY HOSPITAL 397-3, Bujeon-1 dong, Busanjin-gu tel: 051-803-5430 GOOD SAMSUN HANBANG 1162-2, Jurye-dong, Sasang-gu tel: 051-325-0300

HOSPITALS BUK-GU/DONGNAE BUMIN HOSPITAL 380-4, Deokcheon 1-dong tel: 051-330-3000 web: www.buminhos.co.kr DONG EUI MEDICAL CENTER San 45-1, Yangjeong 2-dong tel: 051-867-5101 web: www.demc.kr DONGNAE BONG SENG HOSPITAL 766, Anlak 1-dong tel: 051-531-6000 web: www.bongseng.com DONGRAE WOORIDUL HOSPITAL 205-10, Nakmin-dong tel: 051-559-5000

web: www.dongrae.wooridul.co.kr BUSAN MUSEUM OF ART INJE UNIVERSITY BUSAN 40, Apec-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan PAIK HOSPITAL tel: 051-740-2602 1435, Jwa-dong web: www.art.busan.go.kr tel: 051-890-6114 Opening Hours - 09:00 ~ 20:00 Closed - Jan. 1, Every First Monday HAEUNDAE Admission Fee - Free BUSAN MODERN HISTORY MUSEUM 104, Daechung-ro, Jung-gu, Busan HYOSUNG CITY HOSPITAL tel: 051-253-3845 1094-2, Jaesong 1-dong web: www.modern.busan.go.kr tel: 051-709-3000 Opening Hours - 09:00 ~ 18:00 web: www.hshos.com Closed - Jan.1, Every First Monday INJE UNIV. HAEUNDAE Admission Fee - Free PAIK HOSPITAL BUSAN MUSEUM 1435, Jwa-dong 63, UN Peace-ro, Nam-gu, Busan tel: 051-797-0100 tel: 051-610-7111 web: www.paik.ac.kr/Haeundae web: www.museum.busan.go.kr Hours of operation - 09:00 ~ 20:00 JUNG-GU Closed - Jan. 1, Every First Monday Admission fee - Free HAEYANG HOSPITAL BUSAN UN MEMORIAL CEMETERY 80-8 Jungang-dong 4-ga AND PARK tel: 051-469-4456 779, Daeyon 4 dong, Nam-gu, Busan web: www.haeyang.net tel: 051-625-0625 MARYKNOLL MEDICAL CENTER web: www.unmck.or.kr 12, Daecheong-dong 4-ga Hours of operation - 09:00 ~ 17:00 tel: 051-465-8801 Open Year Round web: www.maryknoll.co.kr Admission fee - Free

NAM-GU

and forgiveness through Jesus Christ. ICC is developing a community of Christ-followers from all nations. Visit any Sunday at 10:30 am or contact us for more info! www. iccbusan.org 010-8326-1985 AL-FATIH MASJID MOSQUE Namsan-dong, #30-1 Guemjeong-gu tel: 051-518-9991 web: www.busanislam.or.kr Services: 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily GIFT MINISTRY Myung-nyun-dong, Dongnae-gu tel: 010-7999-8644 web: www.tinyurl.com/lifeisagift Services: Saturdays,10:30 a.m. HONGBEOPSA TEMPLE Dugu-dong, #1220-1, Guemjeong-gu tel: 010-8771-6265 HOSANNA CHURCH Myeongji-dong, #3245-5 Gangseo-gu, tel: 051-209-0191 web: www.him-busan.blogspot.com Services: Sundays, 12:30 p.m.

RELIGIOUS SERVICES

BUSAN ST. MARY'S MEDICAL CENTER 538-41, Yongho 4-dong tel: 051-933-7114 web: www.bsm.or.kr

SEO-GU DONG-A UNIVERSITY MEDICAL CENTER 3-ga, #1 Dongdaeshin-dong tel: 051-240-2400 web: www.damc.or.kr PUSAN NATIONAL UNIVERSITY HOSPITAL 10, Ami-dong 1-ga tel: 051-254-0171 web: www.pnug.co.kr

SUYEONG BUSAN CENTUM HOSPITAL 1077-1, Gwangan 3-dong tel: 051-760-5000 web: www.centumhospital.com BUSAN HANNAH WOMAN'S HOSPITAL 304, Namcheon-dong tel: 051-625-2300 web: www.hannah4u.co.kr GOOD GANGAN HOSPITAL 40-1, 41-9, Namcheon-dong tel: 051-625-0900 web: www.gang-an.or.kr

MUSEUMS

INTERNATIONAL COMMUNITY CHURCH Minerva Hall, Pusan University of Foreign Studies tel: 010-8326-1985 web: www.iccbusan.org Services: Sundays, 10:30 a.m. ICC is a close-knit community church that is committed to sharing the incredible good news of grace

NEW PHILADELPHIA CHURCH Gwangalli Beach, Marine Building 8th fl Behind Twosome Place near Sharky’s tel: (051) 932-6832 or (010) 2970-5594 web: www.newphilly.cc Service: Sunday, 2:30 pm New Philadelphia is a diverse community of believers who love Jesus Christ and love people. Our church is full of people who live by faith and we are committed to helping individuals reach their full potential and experience the perfect will of God for their lives!

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Services Directory

SHOPPING DEPT. STORES LOTTE DEPT. STORE www.lotteshopping.com Open: 10:30 ~ 20:00 FOUR LOCATIONS CENTUM CITY 1496, U Dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan tel: 051-730-2500 DONGNAE 502-3, Oncheonjeong, Dongnae-gu, Busan tel: 051-605-2500 GWANGBOK 20-1, 7 ga, Jung-ang Dong, Jung-gu, Busan tel: 051-678-2500 SEOMYEON Bujeondong, Busan-jingu, Busan tel: 051-810-2500 HYUNDAI DEPT. STORE 62-5, Beomil-dong, Dong-gu, Busan tel: 051-667-2233 Open: 10:30 ~ 20:00 SHINSEGAE DEPT. STORE (CENTUM CITY) 1495 Wu-dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan tel: 1588-1234 web: www.english.shinsegae.com Open: 10:30 ~ 20:00

CLOTHING/SPORTS KAI SURF SHOP 183-11 Gwangan-dong, Suyeong-gu tel: 051-753-2746

SOCIAL/NON-PROFIT ORGANIZATIONS

BUSAN BANDITS RUGBY Facebook Group: Busan Bandits BUSAN BOOK SWAP Facebook Group: Busan Book Swap BUSAN BOWLING LEAGUE Contact: David Alderman tel: 010.7919.1223 Facebook Group: Busan Bowling League BUSAN FOUNDATION FOR INTERNATIONAL ACTIVITIES tel: 051-668-7900 web: www.bfia.or.kr BUSAN FRIENDSHIP GROUP www.meetup.com/Pusans BUSAN SCUBA Facebook Group: Busan Scuba BTC FOOTBALL FB Group: Busan Transportation Corporation Supporters Fanpage EPIK TEACHERS IN BUSAN Facebook Group: Busan EPIK EXPAT SAILING CLUB Contact: Mark Chi email: Koreasailing@gmail.com web: www.busansailing.com LAOCHRA BUSAN GAELIC ATHLETIC ASSOCIATION CLUB Contact: Peter Bonner email: busangaa@gmail.com Facebook Group: Laochra Busan Members

GROCERIES COSTCO web: www.costco.co.kr E-MART web: www.emart.com HOMEPLUS web: www.homeplus.co.kr MEGAMART web: www.megamart.co.kr

INTERNET GROCERIES EZSHOP KOREA web: www.ezshopkorea.com FATBAG web: www.fatbag.co.kr IHERB web: www.iherb.com INDIAN SHOP web: www.indianshopkorea.com NICE MARKET web: www.nicemarket.net

FAST FOOD MCDONALDS tel: 1600-5252 web: www.mcdonalds.co.kr LOTTERIA tel: 1600-9999 web: www.lotteria.com BURGER KING No delivery web: www.burgerking.co.kr

POPEYE’S CHICKEN No delivery web: www.popeyes.co.kr KFC No delivery web: www.kfckorea.com QUIZNOS No delivery web: www.quiznos.co.kr DUNKIN DONUTS No delivery web: www.dunkindonuts.co.kr MISTER DONUT No delivery web: misterdonut.gsretail.com BASKIN ROBBINS No delivery web: www.baskinrobbins.co.kr

PIZZA DOMINOS tel: 1577-3082 web: www.dominos.co.kr PAPA JOHN’S tel: 1577-8080 web: www.pji.co.kr PIZZA HUT tel: 1588-5588 web: www.pizzahut.co.kr MR. PIZZA tel: 1577-0077 www.mrpizza.co.kr

Humetro Call Center Lost & Found Center

50 HAPS_spring 2013

Seomyeon Stn.

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02 SFUNZ 04

Shopping

Save Zone Dept. Store

B ae nd eu Ha

ach

Haeundae Be

d 05 Roa nam u G Sea Cloud Hotel

d oa hR eac

Novotel Hotel

oad

Dawn Beach Hotel

oad

Gw ang

an B

eac

ach

Gw ang

dae

Park Hotel

Bar/Pub/Lounge

Sub 03 way Stn .

Cafe

Shopping Bar/Pub/Lounge

che

Restaurant

Restaurant Cafe

SEOMYEON

[PUSAN NATIONAL UNIVERSITY] 01

Dongcheon Road

08 12

PNU Main Gate

Pusan National Uni. Road

4 2 13

Kayodae Road

ad Geumjeong Ro

Bar/Pub/Lounge

PNU Subway Stn

Business

01 02

Lotte Dept. Store

Restaurant Cafe

52 HAPS_spring 2013

Tewha 03 Judyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Dept. Store 01

Jungkangdae Road

Seomyeon Subway Stn.

04 03 02

02 04 03

8 10

Busan Bank

Sojeon Road

ong Roa

Geumje

Good Plus

Dongcheon Road

Jungang Middle School

Migliore Fashion Mall

Sojeon Road

PNU

To N

Club

Pale De Cz

05 02

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eun

Haeundae Beach

Paradise Hotel & Casino

Paradise Hotel Dept. Store

01 01

Toyota Dealership Haeundae City Hall

Homers Hotel

e ac hR o ad

03 04 03

Lotte Hotel & Seven Luck Casino

Seomyeon Road

Cosmetic Surgery Street

Haeundae Aquarium

Aqua Palace Hotel vel Na zy 01 z u F to 0m 10

Gw ang an B

3 1

Haeundae 01 Bus Depot

mR oad

BMW 02 Dealership 02

Roa

Gw ang -na

Haeundae Tourist Office

m -na

ubw ay S t

oad in R Ma

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ae Bea

Harbour Town

GWANGAN

Hae

Haeund

To G wan g

HAEUNDAE

Haeundae Subway & Train Stn

Business Club Bar/Pub/Lounge Restaurant Cafe

KYUNGSUNG

LEGEND

Bukyung University

g eon S uy

Ro a

Car Park

Perugio Apartments

02 2

03 05

Yongsu Road

Century 21 Building 3

oad

su R

g Yon

5 6

McDonalds

CGV

Kyungsung University

eon Suy

g Ro

Bar/Pub/Lounge

04 03 GS Gas Station

Restaurant Cafe Jungang-dong Sub. 6

Lotte Dept. Store

NAMPO-DONG

. g Sub

o-don

Namp

3 1

Yongdusan Park

05 03 04 Information 02

Daegaksa Temple

Jalgalchi Fish Market

Namp

o Unde

PIFF Squaure

Gukje Market

Restaurant Cafe

03 Twosome Place 04 Tom n’ Toms BUSINESS 01 Kangs Dental 02 Apple Store KYUNGSUNG BARS/PUBS/ LOUNGES 01 Almost Famous 02 Club Realize 03 HQ 04 Blue Monkey 05 Eva’s 06 Dugout 07 Thursday Party 08 New Foxy 09 Vinyl Underground 10 Ol’55 11 Fabric 12 Fully Booked 13 Monk RESTAURANTS 01 O’Taco 02 Burger & Pasta 03 Outback 04 Okkudak 05 California Burrito CAFES 01 Starbucks 02 Tom n’ Toms 03 Angel-In-Us 04 Angel-In-Us NAMPO-DONG RESTAURANTS 01 Arun Thai 02 KFC 03 The Pan 04 The Pho 05 New Little India 06 Farmers Burgers 07 McDonalds CAFES 01 Caffe Bene 02 Starbucks 03 Angel-In-Us 04 Holly’s 05 The Cafe 06 Caffe Bene

rgroun

Tourist

d Shoppin g

03 Busan Modern History Museum

Mall

Busan Tower

RESTAURANTS 01 Burger n’ Pasta Business 02 Bella Citta 03 Blue Saigon Club CAFES Bar/Pub/Lounge 01 Tom n’ Toms 02 Twosome Place Restaurant 03 Starbucks BUSINESS Cafe 01 Kai Surf Shop HAEUNDAE PNU CLUBS BARS/PUBS/ 01 Murphii LOUNGES 02 Elune 01 Thirsty Moose 03 Maktum 02 Wa Bar BARS/PUBS/ 03 Basement LOUNGES 04 Crossroads 01 Thursday Party 04 Soultrane 02 Miami 88 05 Red Bottle 03 Wolfhound 06 Interplay 04 Rock n’ Roll 07 Moo Monk 05 Fuzzy Navel 08 Bling 06 U2 RESTAURANTS 07 Miami 88 II 01 Won Chon 08 Sector 510 02 The Box 09 Gecko’s 03 Tajmahal 10 Sharky’s 11 Billie Jean CAFES 12 Tap and Tapas 01 Angel-In-Us 12 TBR 02 Charlie Brown 03 Twosome Place RESTAURANTS 04 Starbucks 01 TGI Friday’s 01 Mad For Garlic 05 Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf 01 Ganga 02 Hello Thai SEOMYEON 03 Namaste CLUBS 04 Loving Hut 01 Fix CAFES 02 Foxy 01 Coffine Gurunaru BARS/PUBS/ 02 Angel-In-Us LOUNGES 03 Angel-In-Us 01 Rock n’ Roll 04 Starbucks 02 Spot 05 Caffe Bene 03 Thursday Party 04 Fuzzy Navel GWANGAN 05 Fuzzy Navel II BARS/PUBS/ RESTAURANTS LOUNGES 01 Vito 01 Paris 02 TGI Friday’s 02 Beach Bikini 03 Thursday Party CAFES 04 Fuzzy Navel 01 Angel-In-Us 05 Beached 02 Coffee Bean & 06 Sharky’s Tea Leaf

SURELY, WE MISSED A FEW SPOTS! IF IT’S NOT ON THE MAP, LET US KNOW! CONTACT: BUSANHAPS@GMAIL.COM

2013 spring_ busanhaps.com 53

The Last Word

THARP ON: COFFEE BY CHRIS THARP ILLUSTRATION BY MICHAEL ROY

SEATTLE TRANSPLANT BUT UNDYING FAN OF ITS COFFEE CAPITAL STATUS, CHRIS THARP PAYS HOMAGE TO THE BROWN BREW.

ontrary to what you have all been told, the beverage Why did you do it Kurt?” I know what he’d say. known as “coffee” was actually invented in Seattle “Yeah, man…” Contrary to popular belief, I really dug the rock in 1872 by a civil war cavalry veteran named Oba- star life… but… it just rains way too much here.” diah Coffee. He was working as a cook in a logging And who knows? If he would have done more double shots of camp at the time. espresso instead of slamming double shots of smack, he just After a massive pancake fire (we know how lumberjacks love might be with us today. their flapjacks) reduced the log cabin kitchen to ashes and Coffee saves. singed some beans black, Mr. Coffee—a thrifty man—boiled Like any self-respecting (or self-loathing) Seattleite, coffee them in hot water in an attempt to clean them off. Unable to re- courses through my veins. I can’t get enough of the stuff. I like sist the smoky aroma, Obadiah took a sip of the oily black liq- it deep, dark and strong as hell and have no problem admitting uid, and history was made. In fact, that I’m a complete snob about it. just three weeks later he opened LIKE ANY SELF-RESPECTING (OR So you can imagine my frustration the first Starbucks. when I landed on the rocky shores SELF-LOATHING) SEATTLEITE, Okay, I lied. Coffee actually is of Korea some eight years ago. At thousands of years old and comes COFFEE COURSES THROUGH MY that time, there were just two Starout of Ethiopia, but the residents of VEINS. I CAN’T GET ENOUGH OF bucks in the whole city. The only my home city, Seattle, can be givother coffee to be had were those THE STUFF. I LIKE IT DEEP, DARK ubiquitous packets of sugary inen credit for reinventing the drink. We worship coffee in the Emerald AND STRONG AS HELL AND HAVE stant mix, which taste to me like City. We have to: it’s the only thing dishwater strained through a NO PROBLEM ADMITTING THAT sweet that keeps half of the populace sweat sock filled with goat shit and from killing themselves. In fact, I’M A COMPLETE SNOB ABOUT IT. lye. In fact, I slapped the first 17 before the arrival of the first Starajummas who attempted to serve bucks in 1971, you couldn’t walk a block on the town’s drizzle- me the swill, self-righteously screeching: drenched streets without stepping over at least three corpses “THIS IS NOT COFFEE!!!” (Arm “X”! Arm “X”!) done in by their own hand. Those days are far behind us now, because about five years Despite consistently topping the list as one of America’s ago, something happened. Word got out that people are ac“most livable” cities, Seattle is often also referred to as the tually dumb enough to pay upwards of 6,000 won for a cup nation’s “suicide capital”. Case in point: Kurt Cobain. Here is of fancy joe, and, overnight, a plague of coffeehouses swept a guy who had everything: riches, fame, chicks stacked like the land. A grandfather couldn’t hock a makeoli-flavored loogy cordwood outside of Abe Lincoln’s cabin—and still he put a without hitting a Coffee Bean, Tom and Toms or Angel-in-Us. shotgun in his mouth. And if we were to ask him today, “Why? (And, for the record, I don’t want any angels “in” me. Ew.) 54 HAPS_spring 2013

Advertorial

LOCANDA ROSSI:

TRADITIONAL ITALIAN IN BUSAN

WORLD-CLASS ITALIAN CHEF FEDERICO ROSSI OPENS HIS OWN RESTAURANT HERE IN BUSAN.

As a lover of coffee and café culture, I naturally welcomed these new additions to the Korean landscape. But despite my initial enthusiasm, I found that Korean café culture differed from that of America’s. The music was loud and uniformly awful—an endless barrage of autotune horror. The “baristas” were nothing of the sort—usually university arbeit-uh students with little or no real training; most suggestions to customize a drink were met with utter, deer-in-the-headlights bewilderment. Customer service and flexibility also became an issue. Like many Westerners, I like a dash of milk in my Americano. With the exception of one chain, Korea never has self-serve milk, and, more than once, after asking for a splash, the coffee girl shook her head sternly and said, “It is impossible.” Korean coffee shops are almost exclusively frequented by young women, derisively referred to as dwenjang nyeo by all the dudes they refuse to have sex with. Paying premium prices for coffee is scoffed at by many Korean men, who see it as a waste of time, money and testosterone. These women often arrive at the café in small groups, and, after ordering up their draughts of liquid speed, sip, talk and talk and talk and talk. The more they drink the more frenzied and voluminous their chattering becomes, drowning out even the murder-inducing K-pop being piped in by the establishment, making it nearly impossible to sit within a hundred meters and, say, enjoy a book. And even worse, the Korean café phenomenon involves herds of young mothers bringing along their babies and toddlers for a caffeine-fueled play date. You can imagine my elation when six of them—spawn in tow—turned my coffeehouse into Kimbap Romper Room as I attempted to chip away at Tolstoy’s Anna Karenina. Bedlam ensued, with squealing rugrats and hissing, babbling mothers. My concentration shot, I could not pretend to mask my contempt. I stared, imagining all six of them being crushed under a moving train, which, in Anna Karenina, is exactly how the tragic heroine kills herself. If only she’d had more coffee, it just may have ended differently. But Russians and their tea—what can you do?

Late last year, there came a welcome site and an even more welcome taste for those craving authentic Italian food in Busan. While Korea has more than its share of Italian restaurants, it’s not often that you find one that is owned and operated by Italians. Enter Fredrico Rossi, a native Italian chef and his newly opened restaurant Locanda. The name, which Fredrico says translates to “family”, offers a traditional taste of Italy right in the middle of the rapidly expanding, posh Marine City neighborhood in the Zenith Center near the shores of Haeundae. Rossi, who has been running the kitchens in several prominent Italian restaurants before opening his own here with his wife, Mina, says that most Italian establishments in Korea generally steer away from the traditional Italian style of food preparation. “The Korean style of Italian food is more fusion, they like to mix,” said Rossi. “I like to make it simple, more traditional and 100% Italian.” A quick perusal through Locanda’s menu will bear out Fredrico’s dictum to keep it traditional. From the La bufalina con pomodoro e basilica (Buffalo mozzarella cheese with marinated vegetables) to the Bianca pizza covered in imported mozzarella and gorgonzola cheese, walnuts and spinach, the menu is a traditional trove of native Italian ingredients. While the Antipasti and the pizzas are excellent, it’s hard to resist not ordering from the pasta section of the menu. All of the pasta at Locanda is handmade—be it the lasagna, ravioli, gnocchi, spaghetti or a wide variety of other pastas, you know with each bite that what you are eating is made fresh right there in Rossi’s open air kitchen and that it will all go great with Locanda’s large selection of exclusively Italian wines. Along with great soups and appetizers, the menu also features a succulent dish of beef tenderloin served with porcini in a Chianti truffle wine sauce, or beef tenderloin Romana with spinach, ham and cheese in a wine sauce. And the grilled lamb chop with seasonal vegetables in a mint parsley sauce is an excellent choice. The restaurant itself, which seats up to 50, offers the warm feel of a brick and natural wood interior along with a heated deck for outdoor dining. While it’s perfect for an intimate dinner with someone special, Locanda also seats large groups as well as catering your next get together at home or office party. And if there is something you don’t see on the menu that you would like to special order, just give Rossi a call and he can have something special made to order for your visit. Getting there: Locanda is located in Zenith Square in between the towering Zenith skyscrapers in Haeundae’s Marine City. Take the escalator to the second floor, go to your right and then take a quick left to Locanda. You can call them at 051-744-8807 or visit their website at www.locandarossi.com 2013 spring_ busanhaps.com 55

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