Busan Haps Iss 6

busanhaps

Baseball Season is on. How are the Giant’s Lookin’ in 2010?

the magazine for what’s happening in busan

Issue 6 April/May 2010

Free

Hockey in Busan?

Yes.

Inside

THARP: Paradise Gambler FOOD: P.F. I Love You GUS: Survival Korean

Spas: The Fine Art of Chilling Out

FILM: The Show Must Go On MUST: Eating Things That Still Move

The ONE AND

One Drop East

ONLY:

www.busanhaps.com

Events 4/16 The Triple B show- Beethoven, Brahms and Busan: The Busan Philharmonic Orchestra plays their 458th subscription concert at Busan Cultural Center. A steal for only 10,000 KRW 051-740-4200 4/16-18 The Gijang Anchovy Festival: That little fish that could, does, during this yearly event at Daebyeon harbor in Gijang. www. english.gijang.go.kr 4/22 I am Robot and Proud: The one-man indie master from Toronto at The Basement in PNU as part of his Asian tour. A must see.

4/23-25 The 10th Gwangalli Eobang Festival: Arts, crafts, food, archery and more on the beach. www. festival-eobang.suyeong.go.kr 4/24 Make the Girl Dance at Club Elune: World renowned French DJ’s cut it up at Club Elune in Paradise Hotel. Get your Le Groove on.

4/29-5/9 International Motor Show: Sure, there are cars, some good food and loads of people watching to be done, but really, you gotta love the models. At BEXCO. www.bimos.co.kr 5/1-10 Busan International Performing Arts Festival: See talent from around the world performing music, plays and more at various locations around the city. www.bipaf.org 5/8-16 Busan Open Tennis Tournament: Still growing, so expect to see more Wimbeldon hopefuls than Wimbeldon winners. Still a good chance to exercise the neck muscles. At Geumjeong Sports Park.

5/12-16 The Asian Short Film Festival: Sixty-one films from fifty-seven countries comprise this yearly event. Get your tix in advance or get ‘em at the door. At Kyungsung University. www. basff.org 5/13-15 Busan TV Content Market: Thinking of opening your own station?

You’re gonna need content. At BEXCO www.ibcm.thesome.com 5/15 The German Maifest: The biggest gathering of Germans in Korea all year. Great food, activities and of course –wait for it– GERMAN BEER! At Kyungsung University. BMW not required for entry, you can take the subway and still be accepted as you are.

“I am Robot and Proud” will perform April 22nd at The Basement in PNU

2010 International Motor Show Apr. 29~May 9 Cool cars, hot models and more at BEXCO

5/20-22 Pret-a-Porter Busan at BEXCO: For you fashion hounds or those who like watching really attractive people walk back and forth on the catwalk. www.pretaporterbusan.com 5/29-30 3rd Annual Port Festival: Nope, not the wine, but a festival of the piers and boats variety. Spend a day on the water eating good food and enjoying crafts and varied activities. International Cruise Ship Terminal.

Through June 2nd, Masterpieces from the Philadelphia Museum of Art: BMOMA’s got it all for this one; Monet, Van Gogh, Renoir, Cezanne, Matisse, Mondrian, Gauguin, Degas and yes, Picasso.

www.busanhaps.com/calendar

april/may

Contents Features

Ahhhh...The Spa Gambling in Paradise The Supreme Master?

P.F. I Love You Music: One Drop East Stoked on the Water Hockey Nights in Busan

17

Guides

Food Sights to See Night Life Getting Your Rock On

19

Reviews

Books: Nothing to Envy Food: Hoturu Film:The Show Must Go On Play Ball!

Food: Eating Things That Move

Regulars

23 CEO: Ju Shin-hye Managing Editor: Bobby McGill Director of Marketing: Michael Schneider Copy Editor: Jeff Liebsch Contributing Writers: Jen Sotham Lynsey Bolin Alexandra Karpen John Bocskay Gus Swanda Chris Tharp J. Lipsky Sonja Freeman Thomas Bellmore David Holt Kristian Wolf Kelly Keegan Dustin Heffner Roy Early Photography: Public Relations: Mike Dixon Roxy Kim roxy8318@hotmail.com Austin Heredia Submissions: info@busanhaps.com Kristian Wolf Ads: mikey.busanhaps@gmail.com

Events Survival Korean Subway Map

5 9 15 17 19 23 25 11 29 31 35 7 13 16 27 30 3 33 37

Well, here we are, the sixth issue. Seems like just five issues ago we got this thing started.

Through the good graces of a bunch of great people we have managed to hang on leading up to the next issue which will mark one year that our little rag has been in circulation around Dynamic Busan.

We want to thank the city government of Busan for putting us in the tourist centers, all of the local businesses that have kept us afloat, the great writers who have contributed their works, and of course, you, for the inspiration to keep going. Thank you all. ~Bmc

Whether you’re in Busan on holiday, or working the 9-5, there is nothing like taking a little break from it all –even when it’s right in the middle of it all. Blogger and spa guru, Sonja Freeman, gives you the low-down on the slow-down.

S

pas, jjimjilbang, public baths, steam baths…

Whatever you call them, they’re wonderful. Frequented by Koreans and increasingly by expats, a spa can be a place to rest and relax, connect with friends, wash up, enjoy delicious foods, or even spend the night. You don’t speak Korean? With just a few tips, it’s easy enough to figure these places out.

Upon arrival, you’ll be given a key, towels, and sometimes an outfit. You can leave your shoes in a small locker and your other things in a larger one inside.

The first place you enter will be the sauna or bathing area; it is gender-segregated and nude, so be ready to strip down. The sauna will usually contain standing showers in addition to the traditional seated-style ones, bath tubs of different temperatures, massage whirlpools and steam rooms. You should bring your own set of toiletries, but there will be some packets of stuff for sale if you forget something. (Insider tip: Bring your Kerasys bottles in a cute case, preferably pink or with a character on it.)

There are a couple of sauna rules in place to maintain cleanliness: be sure to shower off before getting into any of the bathtubs. Also, no scrubbing your skin or using soaps in the tubs; only in the shower areas.

Just do what everyone else does and you’ll be fine! In addition to hot, warm, cool, and cold water, you may also find hot-spring-fed baths rich in minerals, green tea baths, salt water tubs, or various herbal options.

Some hot-spring spas feature outdoor bathing as well.

After soaking, you could lie down under a restorative infrared light, sweat it out in a steam room, or get an aromatherapy massage or scrub. I personally recommend a scrub, unless you have particularly sensitive skin. Typically around 15,000-20,000 Won, most include an icy fresh cucumber mask (the best part!)

5 busan haps

and post-scrub oil treatment. Just be prepared to say something if the scrubber gets a little over zealous; they can be very thorough!

Now that you’re all clean, if the place is just a sauna you’re free to go. If you’ve come to a larger spa or “jjimjilbang” this is just the beginning. You should have received a set of clothes for the co-ed areas found in the jjimjilbang. They will look funny and may be ill-fitting – in the words of Tim Gunn, “Make it work.” Pass through into the jjimjilbang and you’ll find many people resting on the floor, snacking, talking and watching TV. Along the sides of this space, you’ll find some smaller rooms with temperatures posted outside. There are hot as well as cold rooms and each has a particular draw such as its material, aroma, or health benefit.

Some are made from traditional yellow soil blocks, others feature air-purifying charcoal, and some have walls covered by natural wood or beautiful stones.

You may find an O2 room, herbal aromatherapy, and varying levels of humidity. Still others invite you to lie on salt rocks or sink your feet in warm clay balls. My favorite place to take a nap is in the ondol-heated, individual caves often found near the women’s or men’s sleeping rooms.

Of course, you can do much more here than rest.

There is almost always a snack bar and restaurant, sports massage, kiddies’ play area, and a movie room and PC rooms for entertainment. Sometimes you can even find a fitness center, swimming pool, screen golf, nail shop, “Doctor Fish” foot spa, or outdoor patio.

With all the various features offered, you can surely find one that suits your style of relaxation. Listed below are the sites for a few of my favorite places around Busan. I hope you enjoy your next visit to the spa!

Shinsegae Spaland - Haeundae For an out-of-this-world experience; unlike any other you’ve seen. www.shinsegaecentumcity.com

Haesu World - Gwangan-li Close to beach, Haesu World has an excellent view any time of day. www.haesuworld.com

Hur Shim Chung - Oncheon Jang Said to be the largest spa in Asia, it is fed by natural springs. www.hotelnongshim.com

Haesuerak - Song Jeong Beach You can check out Sonja’s spa blog at www.saunasinkorea.blogspot.com

This great spa is right off the beach: perfect for a day out of the busy city. www.haesurak.com busan haps 6

NO

By Kelly Keegan

Power to the People

T

hanks to parodies in Team America and South Park, one could most likely identify our neighbor to the north’s leader, Kim Jong-il, as the short, “ronery” looking guy with the oversized glasses and a jumpsuit.

But with all the Kim Jong-il jokes aside, the average person probably doesn’t know much else about the past or present situation in North Korea. Nothing to Envy: Ordinary Lives in North Korea, (Spiegel and Grau, 336 pages, 2009) by award-winning journalist Barbara Demick, recounts the lives of six North Koreans from Kim Il-sung’s reign to the present day living as defectors in South Korea. Each story is as captivating and heartbreaking as it is educational, a telling analysis of their closed-off motherland, a country of constant mystery to any outsider.

We meet Mi-ran first, the daughter of a South Korean prisoner of war (POW) turned mine worker.

South Korean POW’s are naturally politically suspect to the North Korean government and therefore lumped together at the bottom of the social classes, right next to female entertainers, fortunetellers, and pro-Japan people. Through Mi-ran and her father’s story, we gain insight on the harsh classification system imposed on North Korean citizens that never allowed for advancement, and limits every opportunity in life for generations.

Then there’s Mrs. Song, a factory worker, mother of four and most devout citizen of the “Great Leader.”

She believed with all her heart the red propaganda signs reading, “WE HAVE NOTHING TO ENVY IN THIS WORLD.” When news of Kim Il-sung’s death in July 1994 reached her, she felt more grief than when her own mother had died. “She rushed down the staircase… many of her neighbors had done the same. They were on their knees, banging their heads on the pavement. Their 7 busan haps

Book Review wails cut through the air like sirens.”

When a grave famine hit in the mid 1990’s, the government pushed a “one bowl of rice per day” campaign. The famine which killed anywhere from 600,000 to 2 million citizens left even the most devoted feeling disillusioned. Many had no choice but to participate in some sort of black market capitalism to come out alive. People became numb to all the suffering surrounding them. “In order to get through the 1990’s alive, one had to suppress any impulse to share food…She (Miran) could pass a five-year-old on the verge of death without feeling obliged to help.”

Jun-sang’s story represents the experience of one with the opportunity to attend a top university in Pyongyang. Sheltered from the terrible famine, Junsang began having doubts about his great leaders and country as well when he was able to secretly pick up a TV signal from South Korea. But these thoughts could never be discussed, not even with his best friend and childhood love.

Oak-hee’s hard life at home sent her on a dangerous flight across the Tumen River into China. Like Jun-sang’s exposure to South Korean television, Oak-hee discovered the truth about her motherland when she crossed the border. “Our whole lives we have been told lies. Our lives are lies. The whole system is a lie.”

Demick spent years in Seoul as a correspondent for the Los Angeles Times, covering both Koreas.

Experiencing the same set itinerary and rehearsed foreigner friendly show put on in North Korea every time she was allowed to visit, she turned to North Korean defectors living in South Korea or China to gather the stories and information for her articles. A compilation of those eventually led to Nothing to Envy.

Although Demick is a trained journalist, her book does not read like a series of extended reports on the topic of North Korea. She gracefully and smoothly weaves together each subject’s uniquely touching story, including necessary reporting on the history and political context as a backdrop. Too many times to count, you will notice unnerving parallels to George Orwell’s infamous fiction book, “1984.” Unfortunately, this is reality for North Koreans. By the end of Demick’s book, you’ll feel deeply invested in the well being of each person, springing all kinds of intense emotions. You’ll want to discuss this book with expat and Korean friends alike, as it is sure to spark engaging conversations.

You can find Nothing to Envy: Ordinary Lives in North Korea at: www.whatthebook.com

busan haps 8

Confessions of a

Gambler in Paradise

By Chris Tharp

I

love to gamble. There, I said it. I really love gambling.

I love sidling up to a card table and buying a fat pile of chips. I love listening to the electric whir of the boot as it metes out my hand. I love the dizzying spin of the slot machine, the metallic roll of the ball on the roulette wheel, and the warm rush of pure adrenaline when I flop a pair of aces in Texas Hold ‘Em. I love playing games of chance and all that goes with it.

I love the casino.

Now, of course, this must be qualified. I love the casino when I win. Walking out of the casino’s revolving doors with a wad of free cash in your pocket is a feeling of pure elation. You feel as if God himself has smiled upon you. But what of the downside? To lose at the casino is to have your guts ripped from you. It can feel as if you’ve taken a blowtorch to your precious, hard-earned money and watched it burn. You will awaken the next day in horror, covered by a blanket of shame. You will truly taste the agony of defeat.

The Paradise Casino in Haeundae is the oldest in Korea, along with its Seoul sister, The Walker Hill. It has been in operation for over 30 years now, both delighting and demoralizing the expat community the whole time. When the blues of living abroad sometimes gnaw at you, The Paradise Casino can act as a bit of a refuge. When you walk through the front door and up the grand staircase which leads into the main room, you are greeted by bright lights and the musical sounds of electronic gambling machinery. It looks just like any proper casino in any other part of the word, and that, in a sense is soothing. You are offered both fun and possibility - an adult’s playground that can delivery you to another world. It is both familiar and exciting. Like all casinos,The Paradise offers escapism at its finest.

According to Marketing Director Lee Ki-Yong, the Paradise employs over three hundred people. It is one of several casinos operated by the Paradise Company, which also operates casinos in Seoul, Incheon, Jeju Island, and Kenya. It offers up a full array of games, including roulette, blackjack, Caribbean stud poker, baccarat, big wheel, casino war, and both video and conventional slot machines. It’s open 24 hours, 365 days a year, but like most all casinos in Korea, it is strictly foreigner only. With few exceptions, Korean nationals are not allowed to gamble, but the government is more than happy to allow a handful of casinos take money from the rest of us –and sometimes dole it out.

With gambling opportunities so limited for local Koreans, I was curious as to where and how the casino finds its dealers. “Most come from universities with casino programs,” Lee said. “We offer internships at the casino, with a three-month training period. After that we pick the best ones.” What qualities do they look for in their potential dealers? “…excellent calculation skills, smarts, good looks, and language skills are a plus.”

According to Mr. Lee, the approximate nationality breakdown of casino patrons is 40% Japanese, 40% Chinese, and 20% other. During my trips to the casino I have also run into a lot of Russians and ethnic Ko-

reans that hold passports from other countries. “Up until two years ago,” Mr. Lee said, “it was mainly Japanese. But now many Chinese come. They are the biggest gamblers and love to play baccarat.” I can vouch for this, as I have seen rich Chinese throw obscene amounts of chips away at the tables of the Paradise.

They take their gambling seriously.

When going to The Paradise or any other Korean casino, for that matter, you will notice a definite difference in atmosphere. Asians are much more emotionally subdued than many Westerners when they gamble. In Las Vegas it’s common and even encouraged to shout, cheer and loudly call for good luck.

This is anathema to the East Asian style, however, and such behavior - while absolutely appropriate in the West - will often get you shushed in a place such as the Paradise. This can be jarring at first: YOU ARE AT THE CASINO, NO FUN ALLOWED. Sometimes Westerners take this for a kind of anti-foreign attitude, when in truth it’s mainly a culture difference that both sides often fail to understand. Couple this with the free drinks that Paradise generously serves to the players, and alcohol-fueled problems do arise: “Sometimes people drink too much and make some problems and the other customers complain,” Lee observed.

Gambling is a rush, but like any good buzz, it can be addictive. I’ve squandered money I’ve won in a vain attempt to catch that “one perfect hand,” when instead I should have walked. Stories abound of people blowing a month’s pay in one night, or much worse. If you do have a problem gambling and wish to ban yourself from the casino, it’s as simple asking the management and signing a form. Just know that once you decide to take such a step, that it is irreversible.

Many of us in the foreign community enjoy playing Texas Hold ‘Em Poker, and up until recently,The Paradise hosted a cash game. It eventually folded, due to a lack of players, but if people are interested in getting a table started, “The casino will open a table if enough people want in. The customers need to bug the casino,” stated well-known local, Johnny Choo, another member of the marketing team.

The Paradise is open for all of us to come and enjoy and is currently courting new members for their JC Membership card, which allows you free chips coupons, lottery chances, and free food and drink for each visit. It sounds like a great deal and gives you a lot of perks that would otherwise be unavailable. “Just bring your passport the first time and it’s easy to sign up,” said Lee. My advice for future casino patrons would be to have fun, but keep it in hand. Go sober - not at four a.m. after your tenth vodka tonic. Bring a set amount of cash, and if need be, leave your cash/credit cards at home or with a friend. Be courteous to the staff and other customers, even if you’re losing. And if you happen to win a lot of money, walk while it’s still in your pocket, because it can disappear as quickly as it came.

Have fun and, pardon the cliché, good luck. busan haps 10

Food Gui Haeundae

Gwangan-li

Blowfish - An American Bar/Restaurant right on the beach. A short cab ride from Jangsan Subway station to Seong Jeong Beach and you’re there.

Good Burgers. Matt will be in shorts soon, so bring shades.

Saigon “Pho”- Very popular Vietnamese restaurant. Across the street from the Starbucks, just off the beach. Big yellow sign. It is on the same street as Hollywood Star.

Sunset Lounge - Great BBQ on the roof, near the beach. Try the Ranch Chicken Tacos. Now with delivery in Haeundae. www.busanhaps.com/ sunset 051-742-2925

Guess Who? Family Restaurant Coming from the Gwangan subway station, make a right at the beach road.

They have just about everything on their buffet and the prices are very reasonable.

Big Tuna - On the road that borders the backside of Jae-Rae outdoor market in Jangsan. Go for the raw or cooked tuna, a little pricey but excellent grub.

Sushi Miga - Sushi boat style, high end raw. Good stuff and the interior is awesome. Across from the beach, Harbor Town. 051-746-0196 Taco Senora - A little tough to find.

Take the street next to SFUNZ (Haeundae Station) towards the beach. In a little alley on the left near Save Zone. 051-744-4050

Cusco - Dig on some spit fired chicken.

The rice-stuffed chicken is popular. 51624-0990 Four Season Raw Fish - Be prepared to drop some fairly decent coin, but the food is great. Real Korean style.

Set meals run from 30-50,000. Don’t be a wimp, try the live octopus -- tell your grandkids. At the Millak Raw Fish Center 2F.

An-Ga - Word has it that they have the best meat in Busan. Check it out for yourself. Jung Dong subway station towards the overpass. A little pricey but worth it. 051-742-7852

Korean Natural Food Restaurant Vegetarian food. If you don’t like meat, try a little Korean and say, “Gogi-no” and cross your arms in front of your chest.

051-751-5534

Jagalchi Eel - BBQ eel in a spicy sauce. Goes great with soju. Very popular with Korean celebrities, especially during PIFF. Near Paradise Hotel. 051-742-5387

Cheers - Korean style restaurant/pub.

Korean fusion food but right on the beach with a great view. In between Starbucks and Angel in Us coffee shops on the beach.

Maris Buffet - Gigormous buffet with everything. A ton of salads and desserts. 30-40,000 KRW. Eat to your heart’s content. Jangsan Station across from Primus.

Somunnan Beef Rib - If you have a preference for the gender of the beef on your plate, they have 40 years experience serving only female cows. Go figure. Walk the beach road east, a few blocks before you get to the RR tracks. 051-7460003 Starface - Bar/Restaurant. Mexican, Italian and British cuisine. And Charles is there if you need help finishing your meal. You can get in a nice game of pool, too. Map page 8.

The Party - Awesome buffet. Very fresh, tons of seafood and unreal desserts. Located under the Pale de CZ condos on the beach. Reservations sometimes required. 051-7447711 11 busan haps

Breeze Burns - Fresh made hamburger and sandwich shop. Very popular for their big breakfast and nice view. On the beach road, near Pascucci coffee shop.

PNU

Fish & Pork - BBQ Shell fish is their specialty. Cheap. Can sit outside.

There are a number of good restaurants nearby. Staff is made up mostly of PNU students; some usually they speak English.

Won Cho - Ultra cool place with all kinds of “real Korea” feeling. There are a variety of traditional Korean dishes from bulgogi (marinated meat) to chicken feet. Located a block upstream on the same one way street as The Basement.

PNU cont.

Kebabistan - Listing this Turkish restaurant is probably a waste of ink.

Everyone has been there. If not, head out gate 1 PNU Subway Station towards PNU. On the left past the main road.

Pho - At same spot as Kebabistan is a great little Vietnamese restaurant.

2nd floor with a great view of the PNU student throng. Real Vietnamese coffee.

Wazwan - Serious Indian food cooked by top chefs from a family that has migrated around the world to cook fantastic Indian food. No alcohol is served but you are more than welcome to bring your own jug.

A must eat. 051-517-1947. Notice that the tel # is 1947?

Taco’s Family - Nice hole in the wall with great burritos. But, don’t be surprised if there is clam chowder on special that day or even lasagna. It is 1/4 block just south of The Crossroads. 010-5688-6303

Kyungsung Eu Dae Di - BBQ pork. Across from Thursday Party. Both here and Bae Dae Po have signs written in Korean.

So start learning.

Pasta Factory - On the same road as Dunkin Donuts. Try the creamy tomato basil and chicken. Good wines.

HQ Bar - New kitchen has brought new great food. If you want a taste of home, this is the place. 3rd floor, near the Family Mart behind the Century building.

Chen Chen - Excellent Chinese food like back home. Good prices and a wide variety of styles. 010-625-8848 Bey Kebap House - Great Turkish food from the folks that wheel that cart right across from the Family Mart.

Florians’s - Across from Angel in Us. All you can eat buffet.

Check busanhaps.com for more restaurant listings.

ide Seomyeon

Zooza - This place has got a little bit of everything. From salmon to steak to a great Cajun salad, along with a wide selection of beers. See ad on page 34.

Loving Hut - Vegetarian.Take Seomyeon Exit 2, left across from Outback.

Try the “Noble Spaghetti” or Spicy noodles.

Buffalo - Got a strange logo with a buffalo strangling a chicken. No buffalo on the menu, just great chicken.

If you are facing Lotte Dept. Store, take the street on the left side. It’s adjacent to the back edge of Lotte.

051-805-3512 Judie Nine Brau - A brewery with good bar food. Seomyeon station, Exit 2, walk three blocks, make a left, across from the Taehwa pharmacy.

051-667-7979 O’Brien’s Gaya - Bar with a great selection of food. Subway Gaya station, Exit 2. 051-894-6541

Cookin’ Korean: Pajeon (Korean Pancakes) For batter: Ingredients: 1 cup water (3-4 tbsp) 1 bunch green onion - cut in a bias,

1 cup flour

1/2 onion - thin slice

1 egg

1/2 carrot - thin julienne

2 tsp soy sauce

1/4 lb shrimp* - chopped

1 tsp salt

1/4 lb bay scallops* - chopped

1/2 tsp sugar

1/4 lb clams* - chopped

1/2 tsp dwen jang (bean paste)

1/8 lb squid* -chopped

(*You can substitute to any seafood.)

Soy dipping sauce: 3 parts soy sauce, 1 part rice vinegar, some chopped green onions In a big bowl, combine all ingredients for batter with a whisk. In a non-stick pan, put 3-4 tbsp vegetable oil.

Make a pancake about 4-5 inches in diameter.

Serve with soy dipping sauce.

FOOD REVIEW:

Mother of the Wavy Yellow Brick

Hoturu W

Story and photos By John Bocskay

Noodle House

hen I was a university student, I must have eaten 2.9 metric tons of instant ramen noodles. Those wavy yellow bricks of chickenflavored Ramen Pride were so cheap they were almost free; so easy an impaired college freshman could make them; and so fast they were the ideal 3 a.m. cure for the munchies, when it matters not what you eat, but that you eat it really, really soon.

Their quick and easy preparation and low price made instant ramen a hit from Helsinki to Honolulu. The Japanese love instant ramen too, so much so that they voted it the greatest Japanese invention of the 20th century; a remarkable accolade considering they also gave the world CD players and underwear vending machines.

Our neighbors to the east do, however, still cherish the original ramen dishes that inspired the imitation: fresh handmade noodles, in a savory broth simmered for hours or sometimes days, topped with anything from beef to bamboo shoots. Almost every region in Japan has its own delightful take on ramen - from the hearty Tonkotsu ramen of Kyushu to the popular Hakata ramen of Fukuoka - and wherever you are, you’re never very far from a ramen joint. Despite the immense popularity of instant ramen, original Japanese ramen is still a go-outto-eat affair, with diners paying from 10 to 100 dollars a bowl. I recently visited a sit-down ramen shop in Jangsan called Hotaru to see what the fuss was about.

I walk in through the back door and find myself practically standing in the tiny kitchen next to the owner, Mr. Jung, who is hovering over a steaming pot of broth; the smell of it fills the air and makes me suddenly hungry. He welcomes us and ushers our party into the small dining area, the walls of which are scrawled from top to bottom with graffiti: drunken professions of eternal love, good wishes for high schoolers soon to graduate, and musings on life, beer and noodles. Bottles of sake line the shelves above the tables, which seat about ten comfortably, fifteen in a pinch. A colorful samurai glares from a tapestry hanging next to the menu board.

The menu lists several charcoal-roasted skewers (mushroom, beef, chicken, ginko nut) priced from 3,000 to 7,000 won, and a variety of tipples to wash them down: bottles of Kirin and Asahi for 6,500 won and a few varieties of both warm and cold sake (Namachozo,

13 busan haps

Taruzake, and Tokkuri) priced from 10,000 won and up.

All well and good, but the ramen is the main event. “I love ramen,” says Mr. Jung, “making ramen and eating ramen.” He spent nine years living and cooking in Tokyo, and his passion for ramen is evident in the details: he uses imported miso and soy sauce from Japan, and strives to recreate the Tokyo styles he loves as authentically as possible. He dishes up two styles of ramen: Tonkotsu Shoyu and Tonkotsu Miso. They share the same basic ingredients and the same pork bone broth, which he cooks for ten hours and jazzes with some garlic, ginger and onions. They differ in that the former is enriched with soy sauce, the latter with miso.

We order the Miso, which soon rolls out in a large bowl with a small wooden ladle. The portion is ample; a fair value at 7,000 won. It gives off the same lovely aroma that greeted me at the door, and contains a tuft of bean sprouts, half a boiled egg, a slice of pork that melts in my mouth, and long, slightly chewy noodles, which Mr. Jung informs me are made fresh daily by a Japanese local. The broth has a creamy, silky texture – I can almost chew it, and I linger over it long after I dispatch the noodles.

I chase it with a bottle of cold Kirin beer, and this immediately strikes me as the smartest thing I’ve done all week.

I go back two days later with my wife to find Hotaru packed with all of fourteen souls and a harried young server who never stops weaving between tables shuttling bottles of beer and plates of anju to small huddles of jovial regulars. This time it’s Tonkatsu Shoyu ramen for me and the Miso for my wife. The Shoyu is savory but thinner and more subtle. If the Miso had been a home run, the Shoyu is a stand-up double: solid and respectable, but not a score. I find myself reaching over the table halfway through to help my wife drive the Miso home.

“Hotaru” means “firefly” in Japanese, and like its namesake, this little creature of the evening (open from 6 p.m. to 2 a.m.) is suffused with the glow of good food cooked with passion. Seating is limited, so you may end up waiting a bit. Though if you had wanted your noodles instantly, you wouldn’t have come.

To get there:Walk north from Jangsan Station exit 4. Cross the first major intersection, keep going,The road curves right, take a left at the next light and Hoturu’s on the left.

Telephone: 051-703-4692/blog.naver.com/hikarib4692

busan haps 14

The Supreme Master?

The popular vegetarian eat spot, Loving Hut, is a fast growing franchise. Of the over one-hundred locations worldwide, Korea is home to thirty-five. But, what is up with the “Supreme Master TV” playing all the time in the restaurant? If you wanna run a franchise, you gotta join up. Sure, it seems like a good cause, but is there more going on than good veggie burgers?

By Roy Early

B

eing that I am a vegan, I was excited the first time I went to eat at the Loving Hut vegetarian restaurant. It was pretty straight forward veggie grub and I didn’t really pick up on any cultish vibes until I noticed the images broadcasting from the “Supreme Master TV” hanging on the wall. I paid it little mind, but then, on my way out, the waitress handed me a hardback book filled with pictures of a blonde-haired Vietnamese woman frolicking with a bunch of cats, dogs, and a cockatiel or two. Maybe they were parrots.

Vegan food is good food, so I let all the supreme-master-possibly-a-cult business slide. I returned many times to enjoy the food, thinking little about her or her pets.

That was until the third, and then the fourth Loving Huts opened in Busan. Then I became more than curious. A little Internet research revealed that along with the four restaurants in Busan there were 31 more in Korea and over one-hundred world-wide and expanding fast.

I also learned that the name of the station comes from the blonde haired Vietnamese-born woman named Hue Dan Trinh. Sometime in the eighties she changed her name to Supreme Master Ching Hai. The story goes that in the early eighties Ching Hai (which means ‘pure ocean’ in Mandarin) was in India and tried to buy a copy of the Bhagavad-Gita. The bookstore said they had no copies, but she insisted that they did and that she had “seen it.” Sure enough, they found one hidden in a sealed box. Word quickly spread that she had an unusually developed third eye. It seemed that there was more to my veggie burger than soybeans and a bun.

The Supreme Master began to attract followers and in 1986 founded the Immeasurable Light Meditation. She adapted the Sant Mat style developed by Thakar Singh known as the Inner Light and Sound method and renamed it the Quan Yin Method. Word is that she studied under the famed Thakar Singh, then changed the name of what she learned and started dispersing it as her own. Is nothing sacred sacred?

I myself briefly studied the Inner Light and Sound meditation practice while living in Venice Beach.

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Information on how “Suma” Ching Hai (yes, even the self-proclaimed enlightened get to give themselves nicknames), built her following to the estimated 20,000 lost souls is sketchy at best. If seems that both www.suprememastertv.com and www.theedenrules.com probably have something to do with it. Through these websites the Supreme Master Ching Hai International Association sells all kinds of stuff from books, cds, audiobooks, food, dvds of the Master’s birthday parties, and now even Loving Hut neck pillows. There is even jewelry and clothing designed by Ching Hai herself.

The internet was quite helpful in learning more about her and her mass of followers, but I was still curious. So, I emailed the Loving Hut franchise headquarters inquiring about opening my own franchise. Afterall, they advertise themselves as the world’s fastest growing and number one vegan fast food chain. Figured if they have thirtyfive in Korea and one hundred in the world, it must be a good business model, reasonably priced and a good investment to boot.

Turns out that the Hut is not your typical franchise.

Only initiated members of the Supreme Master Ching Hai International Association are eligible to own and operate one. On top of that, all locations are operated on a non-profit basis. Since when does a franchised restaurant become a non-profit? At this time there are no initiations scheduled, but they are going to get back to me with more information. If you see me walking around with dyed-blonde hair, inform the authorities.

I am curious as to where the profits go. I want to learn more about the group, but it looks like I might have to join them before I get enlightened on any level. Regardless, the stated mission of the Loving Hut restaurants seems to be spreading the news about the benefits of a vegan diet. That is not such a bad thing.

Knowing that at the head of the quasi-religious, slightly odd soy-filled organization sits a Vietnamese woman looking a bit like the older sister in an eighties sitcom with bleach blond hair who dresses like a princess in clothes of her own design, while claiming to be enlightened does not really bother me. I guess.

P.F. I Love Jung Won Chan, a.k.a. Jackey, the savoir-faire behind Busan’s favorite little pasta joint, shares the fascinating story behind the restaurant and his take on why Kyungsung’s Pasta Factory has become a mainstay.

T

hough this long-standing Kyungsung staple just celebrated its five-year anniversary, the road to Pasta Factory’s outstanding reputation was paved by more than just killer focaccia and lick-the-bowl “rosie” sauce. In fact, up until his early thirties, Jackey was well on his way to a career in interior architecture and carpentry, a skill set that has certainly lent itself to PF’s indubitable design sense.

While studying near Vancouver, Jackey learned of his older brother, Jung Jung Chan’s, new venture as a restaurateur. He was a little perplexed, as Jung Chan had been a practicing veterinarian. Jackey, himself, had acquired a taste for international foods while living abroad, but he wasn’t aware that a similar interest had grown in Jung Chan…to the point where it birthed a little pasta restaurant on the third floor of Sfunz in Haeundae. A year after Bella Rosa’s 2002 opening, Jackey was slapped with the tragic news that Jung Chan had been involved in a fatal car accident, and so Jackey dutifully returned to Busan to take over his lost brother’s restaurant and carry out the unlikely legacy that Jung Chan had left behind.

“I had no clue how to run a restaurant,” said Jackey. “But I knew I had to see my brother’s dream through. I spent the first six months learning how to run the kitchen from Bella Rosa’s chef. It’s like a science.”

Once he had the kitchen mechanics down, he concentrated on learning the front of the house.

“I was taught by a seventeen year old part-timer.

She showed me everything from how and when to pour to how to talk to customers.”

It’s safe to say she taught him well -- something anyone who has eaten at Pasta Factory will quickly tell you.

During that year, Jackey began to add some of his own recipes to the mix. Living on his own since the age of twenty, he had always enjoyed cooking for himself, though he had been quite ambivalent about western food. When he decided to move to Canada to study, he prepped himself by eating a 17 busan haps

Subway sandwich for lunch every single day. Upon arrival in Canada, Jackey’s palate quickly adapted to the vast array of flavors on offer, but it wasn’t until he moved in with his host mother, Benji, that he really came to understand how to harness those flavors. Benji and her husband had a large family, but all of their children were grown. They filled their empty nest with six exchange students, and Jackey considers himself lucky to have landed in that roost.

“She was an amazing cook, my host mother. Italian was her specialty, but she could cook anything.

There were days when she would prepare six completely different lunches, to satisfy everyone.”

This philosophy of ‘keeping everyone happy’ would become a crucial component in how Jackey was to proceed. Though Bella Rosa had a solid menu and its fair share of loyal customers, there wasn’t enough foot traffic to sustain it. After a twelve-hour day that proffered a meager 45,000 won profit, Jackey knew it was time to close Bella Rosa’s doors. Yet he did so with a newfound conviction… to open his own restaurant.

“I felt as if my brother had given me the gift of a new path.”

In turn, Jackey gave us the gift of Pasta Factory.

The name was a no-brainer. Jackey was aware that in most Korean establishments, substitutions are usually refused. He figured that offering ten differ-

You

Photos and Story by Jen Sotham

ent menu items with three different kinds of noodles available resulted in thirty choices. Although he wanted to create a warm space, the price of wood is astronomical in Korea, so he went with the ‘factory’ theme for the restaurant’s interior: minimalist design using silver and muted tones.

He then added the warmth by using dark red as his ‘point color,’ subtle lighting and music, and, of course… the service.

One of the best things about taking in a meal at Pasta Factory is the cast of characters that greet you at the door. This lively crew seems to know the name of anyone who’s eaten there more than once, and perpetually make you feel as if they’ve welcomed you into their living room, without going overboard. Most Italian restaurants that exist in Korea incorporate very formal service to match the price tag… as doing Italian cuisine properly requires 100% imported goods. But Jackey didn’t want his restaurant to feel stuffy.

“My opinion about service is that it should be casual but attentive… anticipating a customer’s needs without constantly interrupting them. You have to be a mind reader, so that a customer has a full water glass or a new basket of bread before they realize that it’s empty.”

It is obvious that the staff at Pasta Factory enjoy their jobs. And they seem totally at ease around

their boss, which is underscored by a deep admiration. When hiring, Jackey conducts at least an hourlong interview with each potential employee – even if it’s just for a part-time job.

“I like to know more about who I hire than just their work experience. I want to know their backgrounds, hobbies, goals and dreams. And I want to take the time to give them the whole picture…the menu, the philosophy, before they accept the job.”

If a comfortable milieu is reason enough to visit, then the food is what will keep you returning, again and again. No matter how busy PF is (expect a wait on Friday and Saturday evenings), every single dish that the kitchen cranks out is spot on. From the beautifully plated salads to the thin crust pizzas to the moist and savory risottos – it’s amazing how ‘right’ each flavor is. Of the pasta dishes, divided into categories by sauce, the Chicken Rosie (cream infused marinara) is, by far, the most popular. It’s Jackey’s favorite, as well.

Don’t be surprised if, while you’re sopping up the last of your sauce with your third helping of the rosemary focaccia, Jackey pays a visit to your table.

And expect him to blush a little when you pay him the compliments that your meal deserves. Jackey’s not in it for the praise. Nor is he in it for the food, really. As he put it so well, “I created this restaurant for what a good meal can do…make people smile.” busan haps 18

Drop it Like it

R

iding the wave of domination at last year’s Battle of the Bands and a funktifying performance at the Busan Live ‘World Famous’ series, One Drop East is straight up on FIRE. The pioneers of the thriving music scene in Korea’s second city are flourishing into the must-see band of Busan. But for ODE, it’s not about the fame, it’s about their friendship.

All eight members are supreme comrades that share laughs, inside jokes, and a genuine love of life that is contagious. It just so happens that they are excelling at what originated merely as a sparetime creative outlet. Blending reggae, dub, funk, soul, Motown and R&B, this octet pumps out addictive rhythms that make your blood boil and your booty shake.

One Drop East might very well be the most globally fused band in Korea: three Kiwis, three Yankees, an Aussie, and a Canuck round out the eight-piece crew. New Zealand native Russell McConnell brings the heat doubling up on alto sax and vocals. Delivering that sweet skankin’ sound, fellow New Zealander Sean Devlin scratches the reggae guitar. Vasana Haines serves as the final New Zealand rep, hammering the funky organs and grooving the basslines on his keys. Belting out the soul of Aretha Franklin and Alice Russel, Angela Crebbin of Australia is the only female in One Drop East, but she certainly holds her own amongst the rowdy boys. Hailing from the US, the horn section consists of Ben Adriance on tenor sax and Gordon Bazsali Jr. on trumpet.

Floridian Ben May bangs the drum kit, with help from Canadian Jeffrey Beattie on congas and percussion.

Haines and Bazsali are classically trained musicians, and Devlin and Adriance have been playing their in19 busan haps

struments since they were in grade school.

They claim two origins to their uncommon name: One Drop East is the title of an album released by the New Zealand group “Salmonella Dub”, serving as a major influence to the band. The one drop itself is a reggae cadence pattern made famous by Bob Marley’s rhythm section, the Barrett Brothers. The bass drum and the bass guitar don’t play on the 1 of the beat in 4/4 time, they “drop” the “one” so to speak.

Their progressive reggae style is shaped by adoration for the Black Seeds, Fat Freddy’s Drop, Katchafire, Otis Redding, and James Brown. But most importantly, they are doing what no one else in Korea does - they can perfect the ‘dub’ sound without the help of computers and samples.

Sean Devlin explains,“Dub is created mainly through electronics, but we are able to pull it off live with instruments.” And pull it off live, they certainly do.

The members of One Drop East have a soft spot in their hearts for bar and club owner Kim DongHa. Originally covered in the December issue of Busan Haps, Dong-Ha laid the foundation for what has become the prosperous music scene of today by relentlessly recruiting musicians to play live at his many establishments including Soul Trane, Vinyl Underground, Crossroads, and Ol’ 55.

“Ten years ago, there was very little live music in Busan. But Dong-Ha changed that by inviting people like us to play at his clubs,” says Ben May. Most of the guys in ODE met at Open Mic Night at Crossroads, and built upon those initial jams sessions to form the band. Mojo, a rock and roll outfit, and B-Funk, a soul and funk conglomerate, were the two original bands that evolved into One Drop East.

t’s Hot One Drop East

Playing gigs under the latter since 2006, their compositions have become much tighter over time, and their old leisure activity has matured into a skillful execution. According to Jeffrey Beattie, “We’ve all been playing together for years now.We used to play just for friends, and we knew a lot of people that could come out and support us. It grew from there.”

They’ve championed the “telepathy” that finetuned musicians can achieve. They know, without having to say a word to one another, the direction that they are going in on a certain song or jam.

Devlin, reflecting on the background of each musician, states, “We’re one of the oldest bands in Busan age-wise, and we’ve been playing together in one form or another for a very long time. We’re also really diverse in terms of where we come from.”

They have all been living and working in Korea for what seems like decades at this point, and playing live has kept them light years away from burning out on Asia. Angela Crebbin describes the band as her “sanity saver.”

Ben May will tell you right away how much he appreciates the life he has in Busan.“Talk to anyone that has been here five or more years and they love it because they have that hobby that keeps them going.”

They take pride in their hard work and Dong-Ha’s inventiveness for developing the modern Busan music scene. McConnell and others in the group agree.

“The scene is excellent. The quality has really improved over the years.”

Devlin believes that, “Right now the timing is perfect.Years ago, it was tough to see three good bands in a month, whereas now, you can catch three good bands in one night.”

The reigning kings (and a queen) of last year’s Battle of the Bands, One Drop East continues to pack whatever joint they play.

With a mix of reggae, funk and an overdose of soul, they are the band to see in Busan

By J. Lipsky

They give props to Lady Goodman, Kilickitat, the Southbay, and Poko Lambro for being the other workhorses that drive the scene. Playing with those bands is a thrill for ODE and for the fans.When they jam together, people get to see such different styles, but at one easy location, and the crowd is glowing by the end of the night.

ODE sets are jam packed with grooves, typically squeezing in around 15-20 songs per night. Devlin chuckles as he points out, “Most of the time there is a planned setlist, but we wing it a lot, too.”

Those preplanned and improvised calls include covers of their reggae influences, but they bust out bizarre tunes that no one would ever guess could be pulled off in that distinct dub-soul style. Their wicked version of The White Stripes “Seven Nation Army” is a head scratcher, simultaneously inducing the crowd to go wild.

McConnell is focusing on writing more originals in the future. “We are developing more (songs) on top of the ones we have right now. We also want to begin recording soon.”

McConnell gave some details on how they compose their own material: “One person comes up with a core idea for a song, then everyone else adds in their bits and pieces. The songs we write are about life, relationships, and struggles....we deliver the messages of unity and oneness in our lyrics.”

These chiefly positive morals dominate their covers along with their originals, and combine for a downright electrifying feeling for fans at their concerts. Make sure to come get down on that ‘Irie’ vibe they buzz about next time One Drop East takes to the stage.

Photo: Mike Dixon

DVD “The Show

Must Go On”

The Show Must Go On won Korea’s coveted Blue Dragon award in 2007 for Best Picture and Best Actor, so it’s somewhat of a mystery as to how this film has gone unnoticed by foreign audiences. Han Jae-rim takes an organic approach to his direction of the life of In-gu, a family man who happens to earn his living as a gangster, played with an understatement of emotional intensity by the venerable Song Kangho (easily the best Korean actor working today). He does what he does because he doesn’t really know how to do anything else, and despite saying otherwise, he doesn’t much want to either.

His son is studying abroad in Canada, and he is left with his wife and daughter, both of whom have become emotionally withdrawn from him as a result of his work. They detest the nature of his lifestyle, yet In-gu hopes to keep them happy by buying a brand new “western-style” house. In-gu is not a consistently violent man, but he often finds himself using violence as a deterrent or when he is on the wrong end of a vicious assault from rival gangs. We see him come to the conclusion that he wants out, yet he often falters in his resolve.

Revered by his boss, In-gu’s bitter rival comes in the form of his boss’s brother, who is both overambitious and exceedingly jealous of In-gu. He’ll take any opportunity to seize In-gu’s accomplishments from him, and this sends In-gu’s attempts to reconcile with his family and find his way out of the business into a downward spiral. It is in the reserved and organic nature which director Han Jae-rim approaches his screenplay that gives it its charming and insightful qualities. The glamorously gritty and ultra-violent world of the North 21 busan haps

Review

By Thomas Bellmore

Directed by: Han Jae-rim Screenplay by: Han Jae-rim, Lee Ji-won & Lee Won-jae Action/Drama (2007)

American Mafioso is absent here, and we get a painted picture of a pettier syndicate of gangsters, resorting to physical combat and knives rather than reaching for a gun. The camera gives us a more voyeuristic look into In-gu’s life, as if we were there in the restaurant eating as him and his wife discuss the possibility of a divorce. Everything about the film is delivered in a subtle, yet emotionally disquieting manner. We identify with the angst of In-gu’s wife and daughter, as In-gu himself seems almost completely oblivious to the reasons for their drifting apart from him.

One of the films more touching moments comes when In-gu is finally given his wake-up call, as he realizes that he could lose everything.

A couple of false endings and some odd music cues aside, The Show Must Go On is a superb parable on how one man’s choices can make or break the foundations of the family that he is working to provide for. The film also provides an interesting social commentary that tears into the fabric of the Korean notion that working for material goods is everything, and whatever is left as a result of being the emotionally absent father is what it is.

In-gu’s attempts to balance his life as a gangster while struggling to hold his family together culminates in a very surprising, and extremely entertaining, series of events. It’s great that the film manages to find the right tone for all of this, never feeling overblown and hitting all of the right notes, making for a film that feels very earnest and very real. This is one of the better Korean films to be released in the last few years, and it deserves to be picked up by anyone who can manage to find it on DVD for rental or purchase.

busan haps 22

Stoked Water on the

Story and Photo By Kristian Wolf

Lee Dae-sung riding the wind

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I

magine wake boarding without the boat and instead being dragged across the water at high speeds by a huge kite. The relatively new sport of kiteboarding is the ultimate extreme - involving whatever skills you managed to learn either snowboarding, sailing or surfing.

Absent the roar of a 350 HP outboard motor 75 feet ahead of you and just the sound of the wind whipping across your ears, it is not surprising that it has even caught on over here in Korea. On the weekends, you can see dozens of kites pulling wetsuit-clad kiteboarders from 5 to 85 year olds across Dadaepo beach, at the mouth of the Nakdong River.

Kiteboarding in Korea actually goes back to the 1990’s, when a few expats got it started. The locals were amazed with what they saw, and it slowly caught on. At first, the sport was extremely expensive and incredibly dangerous. It was very difficult for the Korean newcomers, not having any type of instruction or guidebook. Eventually, they got the hang of it and the rest is history.

Only a few of the pioneer kiteboarders still actively kite in Korea. The majority of the local kiteboarders have only been participating in the sport for the last five years. The sport has grown to about 150–200 people, and roughly about 40 of those live around Busan. Currently, Busan has only two IKO (International Kiteboarding Organization) instructors, of the roughly ten instructors in the entire country.

Kiteboarding is a seasonal sport and dependent on wind conditions. At Dadaepo beach, the season stretches from October to June and you can experience the best and most reliable wind during the spring. Although Busan winters can get cold, with a good wet suit, the temperature is more than bearable.

Dadaepo beach is one of the best places to learn kiteboarding in the world. There is wide swath of sandy banks and the water is the perfect depth for learning. Since tourism in Korea is not as popular as other countries, the amount of kiteboarders is usually limited to only the locals - typically, you can see

around thirty kiteboarders in Busan, whereas Boracay in the Philippines attracts over 200 on a good day.

The local kiteboarders I met are a great group of people and are very accepting of new riders. The hospitality I received was amazing and I was able to make a lot of great friends. “The kiteboarders at Dadaepo beach are more than happy to see kiteboarders from all over the world. We encourage everyone to give the sport a try,” said local Dong-nam Ryu. Another local rider, Seong Kang added, “It’s almost a waste that so many people live next to one of the greatest kite beaches in the world, and so few people know about it.”

One downside is that kiteboarding is a sport with a high start-up cost, but after the initial cost, it’s free.

In North America and Europe, 20 hours of lessons will normally run you around $1000, but in Korea, 20 hours of lessons which will get you up and riding on your own, costs only $600. Lessons are taught one on one and include equipment rental. If this seems overwhelming at first, there is an introductory teaser course for $120.

The kiteboarding instructor I recommend most is Dong-nam Ryu. He has a long history in kiteboarding and has taught many foreigners. He is the only Englishspeaking instructor in Busan as well. Dong-nam is also a dealer for kiteboard equipment company Naish and North, so he is your connection for everything you need.

If you are interested in kiteboarding, there are several places in Korea where you can partake: - Han river in Seoul - Pyeongtaek-ho in Asan bay - Sihwa-ho in Kyeong ki-do - East coast cities such as Kangnyeong, Donghae and Pohang - Jeju Island - Dadaepo Beach Wanna know more? Conact Ryu Dong-nam at: namakorea@hotmail.com

busan haps 24

Hockey

nights in

Busan

By Lynsey Bolin

The Canadians beat the Americans in Olympic Hockey and there will no end to the smack talk. So, maybe some of you might want to get a little revenge? How about doing it out on the ice here in Busan?

K

imchi, soju, beaches, and …hockey. The last of which doesn’t often come to mind when you think about Busan, let alone South Korea. However, in recent years, interest in the game has been on the rise not only amongst the expat population, but Koreans as well. On the expat side of the equation, this might not be surprising considering there are well over 8,000 Canadians living here – a people who are known worldwide for being unabashed lovers of the frozen game.

Thanks to the persistence of Scott Sanders, a Canadian residing in Kimhae for nearly 10 years, there is a solution for those of you feeling withdrawal from the touch of the puck.

Sanders originally joined a team of Koreans playing in Kimhae, along with Yoo Seung-Min, the founder and captain of the local team, Busan Rhinos. That didn’t last too long, since the team was kicked-off from the local rink due to some faulty Plexiglas “issues.”

“We were banned from the rink because I broke the Plexiglas, on several occasions. So, my friend Jason Henderson and I decided to rent some ice on our own along with another player, Gino Nini.”

Thanks to an advertisement on KoreaBridge, what started out as three guys playing on Sunday nights steadily grew to a healthy squad of enthusiasts.

Every week - except in August - at Bukgu Ice Rink in Deokcheon, you can find a group of expats and Koreans lacing up their skates and taking to the ice.

For a couple of hours, this gallimaufry of guys, with the touring name Busan Blades, manage to put their personal NHL loyalties aside and have a friendly game of pick-up. On occasion, members of the Rhinos have been known to join the session. Yoo, aka “Big Brother,” appreciates the coordination level that is required for the game and like the expats, he is more than glad to shred some ice.

Traditionally, hockey is a sport that kids learn at an early age. Some players, like American (non-Canadian) Charles Sturtevant, are late bloomers. “I started playing at age 18. Most people quit by that age.”

25 busan haps

Others, like Canadian Dustin Heffner have been in training since they were toddlers.

“I began playing hockey at the age of five. I had to have a chair on the ice to keep me from falling.” A practice most beginning ice-skaters can empathize with.

What about the brawls? Chris Murray says those were his highlights as a younger player but, “Don’t worry, this isn’t that type of hockey,” he laughed.

Ice time for the Blades isn’t limited to the boundaries of Busan. Throughout the year, they play against other foreign teams in Korea. Notable competitions include a weekend ball hockey tournament in Seoul, the Hackers Cup over Chuseok holiday, and at times, mixing the seven foreign teams to represent Korea in week long tournaments in Mongolia, Thailand, China, Singapore and most recently, Russia.

The international tournaments are what hockey dreams are made of. According to Tim Thorenton, the highlight of his hockey experience in Korea was when he went to Russia in January with guys from Busan, Seoul, Daejeon and Jeonju. “Playing the games outdoors with a few thousand people watching was absolutely amazing.”

As for local founder, Scott Sanders, he hopes that the number of foreign teams and players in the peninsula continues to grow. Already, the number of guys that regularly come out, along with their fans, is better than he could have hoped for. “Starting with just three guys, we have grown a lot. These are great guys and we have lots of fun every week we lace’em up.”

If you want to join, but you don’t have the gear, there is also a grouping on Tuesday nights at the KukDong Ice Rink in Namcheon playing 3-on-3 pond-style hockey –just skates and a stick. They usually start at 7 pm. Either way, now there’s no excuse for hockey enthusiasts of all abilities not to play the game they love.

Wanna play? Contact Scott: ss_rodya@hotmail.com or Tim: tttthorenton@hotmail.com Need Gear? www.spomax.com Photo by Austin Heredia

PLAY BALL!

By Dustin Heffner

The Lotte Giants are back for another season of packed seats and fired-up fans.

With nearly all of the playoff roster from 2009 returning, it should be a good one.

E

very spring, Busanites start to feel the ground shake and their hearts begin to pound. Like a Korean version of St. Patrick, you can see the fearful exodus of every live chicken within 100 kilometers of Sajik Stadium and local hospitals are inundated with increased inquiries for beer and soju IV’s – ok, maybe I am embellishing a little. However, for the sports fans of Busan, these clues and events can only lead to one conclusion…Lotte Giant baseball is back.

The local baseball titans have begun their 2010 campaign in the hopes of bringing the city of Busan a Korean Baseball Organization (KBO) title for the first time since 1992.

After a rocky start, the whole city still has high expectations for them to bring home the championship this year.

At the helm, the Giants will be in the capable hands of American manager, Jerry Royster. Royster joined

the team in 2008 and quickly turned Lotte from perennial doormats to playoff contenders. The Giants finished third in 2008 with a 69-57 record, and in 2009, they finished fourth with a 66-67 record – despite having an atrocious first month.

Lotte is led once again this year by their power duo of Dae Ho Lee and Karim Garcia, both of whom ranked amongst the top home run hitters in the KBO in 2009.

While Lee is a more John Kruk than Albert Pujols in appearance, don’t let his pillow like physique fool you. He is a great talent who feasts on opposition pitching from the third or fourth spot in the batting order. Last year he had 28 long balls, 100 RBIs and a .293 batting average.

Lee was a pitcher prior to an injury in 2001 and won the Triple Crown in 2006, leading the KBO in batting average, home runs and RBIs. He also played for Team Korea in the 2008 Beijing Olympics, when the Korean squad won the gold.

Garcia is another power player who gladly cleans up any of Lee’s leftovers.

Garcia, originally from Mexico, was a journeyman in Major League Baseball (MLB) before finding a home in Busan. Stateside, he is best known for an altercation he had while a New York Yankee, with Boston Red Sox ace Pedro Martinez during the 2003 American League Championship Series. The Busan version of Garcia is a fan friendly power hitter who possesses a cannon of an arm in right field. Last season he hit 29 home runs, 111 RBIs and had a .283 average. He also led the league in outfield assists with 17.

The one noticeable change this year for the Giants will be in their bullpen. Closer Jon Atkins, who led the league in saves in 2009 is gone, now replaced by starting pitcher Ryan Sadowski. Sadowski played sparingly for the San Francisco Giants in 2009, amassing a 2-4 record.

Other key players to watch this season are starting pitcher Seung Jun Song, shortstop Ki-Hyuk Park and first baseman/designated hitter Sung Heun Hong. Hong was runner-up in the batting average battle in 2009, finishing with a .371 average. Also keep an eye on pitcher Son Min-han, who ranks as the second highest paid player in the KBO with a hefty $510,000 salary.

For more information on the Giants, look for the weekly recaps on the Busan Haps Korean sports page which will launch later this month at www.busanhaps.com/sports Photo courtesy of xportsnews.com

busan haps 28

Busan Sights

Busan Aquarium

Worth a Good Look

Beomeo Temple

One of Korea’s “Great 5 Temples,” Beomeo is an incredibly serene temple complex. Founded in 678, the temple offers a unique view into the life of Korea’s Buddhist Monks, and Korea’s unique interpretation of Buddhism. Take Subway Line 1 to Beomeosa station. Head out exit 5. From there you can hop in a taxi or take the city bus up the mountain. Beomeo Temple is open all year.

Yonggung Temple Located right on the coast near Haeundae, Yonggung Temple offers stunning views of the sea as well as a dozens of statues and Buddhist artwork. Visit the three-story pagoda that is home to the four lions. The lions symbolize sadness, anger, joy, and happiness. After just a short time at Yonggung you will forget the former two and fully embrace the two latter.

Busan Tower/Nampo Dong Market Busan Tower offers a view on high of the port area. Nearby is the massive Nampo Dong Market where you can find just about anything. The area is recently polished up and has a great shopping district and a gazillion restaurants to check out.

To get there, take Subway Line 1 to Nampo Dong station. It is a great place to get lost, so I will leave the directions at that. Enjoy.

Geumjeong Mountain Fortress An ancient wall and guard towers lining the ridge of the Dongnae Area, Geumjeong Mountain Fortress offer not only a view into the past but also a great view of Busan. To get there take Subway Line 1 to Myeongnyun-dong station. From there head west. If you aren’t up for a hike to the top then you can hitch a ride on the bright red and yellow cable car and glide right on up to the ridge in comfort.

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The largest aquarium in Korea and one of the most highly regarded in all of Asia, Busan Aquarium is a must see. Located literally on (and under) Haeundae Beach it is a great place to round out a day on the coast. You can check out shark feeding, penguins, and the bizarre looking Eagle Ray. To get there take Subway Line 2 to Haeundae station and hoof it towards the coast.

Jagalchi Fish Market Great place to pick up seafood to cook at home or to just kick back and have it cooked for you. Home to the largest seafood market in Korea, Jagalchi is located just across the street from Nampo-Dong market, so make it your last stop when you visit the area.

Wouldn’t want to be walking around smelling like fish. (Busan Haps wishes in no way to offend people who find the smell of rotting fish appealing).

Nurimaru/ Dong Baek Island On the south-west end of Haeundae Beach you can take in some incredible views of the full breadth of Haeundae and Gwangan. There is an elaborately done pathway that leads you around the area, an old lighthouse and densely wooded areas to pretend you are lost in.

Also look for the stone inscription of the Silla Dynasty scholar, “Haeun” (which means “sea” and “clouds) who visited there centuries ago. Historic Graffiti. Cool stuff.

Taejongdae Natural Park Located on the island of Yeongdo-gu, Taejongdae is an incredibly scenic park with great views from high cliffs facing the sea. There is an evergreen forest to wander around in and several facilities for tourists such as an observatory, an amusement park with a full on Ferris wheel and a cruise ship terminal. And there is the funky abstract art to boot. To get there just take bus 88 or 101 from Busan Train Station.

Busan Museum of Modern Art A sprawling 3-story 21,000 square meter building housing everything from traditional to modern art, the BMOMA is one of Busan’s prized jewels housing an enormous collection. And it is all available to the public for a mere 700 KRW. That is no misprint. To get there take Subway Line 2 to the Museum of Modern Art Station. They are open Seven days a week. 051-744-2602

A MUST:

Eating Things That Still Move

By Alexandra Karpen

“I had to somehow manage to dip the bugger in the sesame oil without letting it wriggle back off of my chopsticks...”

I

feel like raw octopus is a misnomer. Raw generally implies that while not cooked, the food has at least stopped moving. In Korea, when braving this meal, even though the octopus has been chopped into small pieces, it still twitches and uses its suckers to stick to the plate, your chopsticks, or the inside of your mouth.

First, I had to fight a piece off of the plate, which is more or less difficult depending on whether they give you disposable wooden chopsticks or the more standard metal. (Metal is much easier since it gives you a sharper tool to slide in between the suckers and the plate.) Then I had to somehow manage to dip the bugger in the sesame oil without letting it wriggle back off of my chopsticks and finally... I popped the squirming bit of octopus in my mouth while it fought for freedom and chewed as fast as humanly possible. Once I got over the ridiculousness of having my food move in my mouth, it was actually quite tasty.

So, for the very brave, bold and adventurous, here is how to go about getting live octopus in Busan. Most fish restaurants with a tank outside will probably serve live octopus if you see it in the tank. However, the easiest route is to head over to Jagalchi fish market. Take the subway to Nampodong and take the exit for the market. It is down the street, on your left by the water, in a rather inauspicious two story building. If you manage to get lost somehow, stop at the tourist center that has a lovely big sign that says “tourist information.” They spoke a bit of English, had interactive computer programs in multiple languages about local attractions and had some maps available - maps are good for the directionally challenged.

Inside Jagalchi, take your time on the first floor to wander around and ogle all of the interesting fish

that are swimming around in tightly packed tanks.

The vendors seem to be used to all of the tourists coming through, and don’t try very hard to hawk their wares to you (even if you are Korean) if you are sporting a camera around your neck.

Once you have gotten your fill, head upstairs to the restaurants. Buyer beware: these ajummas mean business and will try to get you to sit down in their territory. Get out your game face and head to a place near the windows - you want that view over the water. Ordering is fairly straightforward; when I went in they brought me over to a wall hanging with all of the fish they served on it. If you lose your nerve about eating squirming food, there is always regular fish that’s the freshest sashimi you’ve ever had. There was no English, but you can point. For those who are willing to test out their Korean, just say ‘seng nak ji juseyo’. “Raw octopus.”

Don’t worry about how much to order unless one of your party is a huge eater - they figure out what will be appropriate. Bargaining might be in order as well. Make sure to ask how much it costs before they walk away from taking your order. Expect to pay about 15,000 won per person, more than that is expensive. I got my ajummas down from 40,000 for two people to 30,000 simply by saying ‘oh, bisayo!’ (expensive) with an incredulous face. They also tried to encourage us to order lots of other fish which we too a pass on. Between the octopus and the side dishes, there really isn’t a need for anything else. Besides, if you do decide to order more, it doesn’t exactly take very long to chop up some more fish and put it on a plate.

You can read more from Alexandra on her blog at: www. aaaalexsadventuresinasia.blogspot.com busan haps 30

Night Life Haeundae

Blowfish - A short taxi ride from Jangsan Subway Station to Song Jeong Beach lands you at the hippest beach side bar in Korea. As the motto says “Thailand in the Front, Afghanistan in the Back.”

Miami 88 – Across from Haeundae Beach. Open air bar with large patio.

Hip-Hop Music Nightly. Located right behind the new BMW building. 051746-6488 24/7 Bar - A swank new spot in Haeundae that just opened the true lounge atmosphere and a TV spread like you’ve never seen.

Fuzzy Navel – Great food, good staff and of course, the fire show. What more do you want? Just off the beach, near Sunset Hotel. Map page 16 Rock n’ Roll House – Bar and Grill with darts/pool/view. On the 14th floor across from the aquarium. Great burgers.

Murpii Bar – On the beach at Novotel. Pricey but cool. 051-743-1234 U2 Bar – Dance Bar/ Live Bands.

Darts.

Across from the Novotel.

The ultimate hip layout Sunset Lounge – Named one of the top 10 bars in Korea by 10 Magazine in Seoul. Weekly special events.

051-742-2925 www.busanhaps.com/sunset Thursday Party – 2 locations in Haeundae. Great atmosphere, darts and a wide selection of beer. Jangsan: 051-703-6621. Beach: 051-744-6621 Starface – On Dalmaji Hill. All you can drink 20,000 Friday and Saturday, 7-11pm. Awesome house band.

They’ve got good grub. 051-742-0600 Club Elune - Busan’s hippest place to dance. Dress code, so leave the cutoff shorts at home. Unless you have really great legs. In the Paradise Hotel.

Sharky’s Bar - The latest incarnation from the founders of Sunset Lounge.

Right on the beach at Pale de CZ 2nd floor next to the Paradise Hotel.

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Kyung Sung

HQ - Very cool place to chill out. Open Air, with tables in the window. Pinch Johnny’s bum, drinks on the house.

Now with a full kitchen. Map on Page 36 Club Fabric - Dance Club with visiting DJ’s from all over the world. If you are looking to get your serious dance on this is your spot. Awesome decor.

Foxy - Same owner as Fabric. Great spot for dancing and very good drink prices. Nice-uh.

Thursday Party – Stylish, open air bar with outside seating and a good view of the Kyung Sung weekend night parade. Owner, Jacky has found the perfect mix for drinking and relaxing.

New York 88 - Great selection of import beers and cocktails. Dart board, great music including Hip-Hop. They have a wide selection of beers and cocktails, buy 4 get one for free. 051-622-6988 Ghetto – Urban chic.

Very popular with the Korean youth, but frequented by expats.

Terry has a dart tournament there every Wednesday at 9:30 p.m.

010-4588-4697 Ol’55 – A music bar with character. Live music on the weekends from some of Busan’s best musicians. Pool table. They have open mic on Wednesdays with the amazing Gino Brann from Klickitat.

Vinyl - One of the longest running bars in Busan. A Large dance floor high ceilings, nice stage. Live music on weekends. Look for Andy Warhol’s big yellow banana. Recently remodelled with the hanging “d.”

051-628-0223 Eva’s – Open air bar. Happy hour 1012pm. Good menu with a variety of western food to satiate your palette.

Great atmosphere and friendly service. Across from HQ. Kino Eye- Just look for the evil looking rabbit and you are there. Dark and chill.

Good place for a blind date if you are unhappy with your own looks.

For more listings visit busanhaps.com

“The problem with the world is that everyone is a few drinks behind.” ~Humphrey Bogart

Seomyeon

Metal City - A new and increasingly popular spot. Darts, pool, live music and cheap drinks.

Ask Gam-dong to do magic. He’s mind blowing. 051-807-4807 O’Brien’s - Just past Seomeyeon on the #2 subway line, Gaya station. Busan’s only Irish Bar Ask for Pat, give him a big hug, he loves it. 051-994-6541 Foxy - Two story dance club in the heart of Seomeyeon. Packed during the weekends.

Fuzzy Navel - 2 locations. Good drink specials and great atmosphere, just like the other four locations in Busan. Map page 16.

Rock n’ Roll Bar - Look for the large sign with Kurt Cobain down the small street perpendicular to Lotte Hotel. 3000 KRW cocktails, live music and a cooldive atmosphere. 051-818-3425

PNU Area

Soultrane – One of the area’s oldest and most well known foreign bars. In the basement beneath Crossroads.

The Basement – One of the most popular bars in Busan for the past several years. Live music, pool, miniature basketball, hookahs and an excellent staff. Open Mic Tues, German-Reggae on Wed. Live music on Sat. Tell Matt he is handsome, he likes that.

Crossroads – Open Mic on Thurs.

Great music. 051-515-1181. Right in the heart of the PNU district.

Interplay – Live music, Jazz, Korean Indie and punk. Open Mic Thurs. 011-873-2200 Monks Bar - Good spot for Korean indie bands. Great punk scene. Fallen off a bit with the expat crowd, but it is still Funky.

Gwangan-li

Fuzzy Naval - Similar in style and atmosphere to the one in Haeundae. Still has the fire show. They also serve food in the evenings. Not to be mistaken with the yet to be opened bar, Play with my Navel. Page 16.

Enoch Mansion - A hip new place with a very lounge atmosphere. The Drinks are cheap and the music is good. In the alley behind Dunkin Donuts.

010-2028-1492 Hollywood Star - Relaxed bar a few blocks off the beach. American nostalgia right down to the motorcycle in the middle of the bar. Pool/Darts. 051-622-6621 Thursday Party - Two locations to go with the others in Haeundae, Seomeyeon and Kyung Sung. On the Beach. 051-7580822/051-753-6621

Guri Bar - Happening, divey bar behind Lotte Hotel. Ask for “Pan”-the very cool owner.

Thursday Party - Good selection of drafts and cocktails. Busy on the weekends.

Cozy atmosphere, great staff.

Can’t go wrong with that.

051-818-6621

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Survival

Korean

33 busan haps

With Professor Gus

Getting Your Rock On I

heard: “Just straighten out your legs and reach up, it’s easy!” This was the first-class, but also pointless advice being shouted up to me by my friend, the rock climbing ‘expert’, whilst I was hanging fifteen or so meters above him. My palms were sweating, my ears were ringing and my stomach had suddenly become religious.

This was my first time to rock climb and I simply didn’t have any confidence in my own ability, plus I didn’t believe a word of what my ‘expert’ friend had said about the simplicity of this ‘adventure’ sport. Tom Cruise had made it look so easy in Mission Impossible II, but that short little fella’ didn’t have a pair of chicken legs to make his life difficult!

Busan is the place to learn how to climb. It offers a lot of opportunities for the absolute beginner. There are a multitude of gyms throughout the city, where you can join in the same way you would a normal gym.

All have experts on hand; all ready to help you conquer your fear, strap you up and squeeze you into a pair of climbing shoes three sizes too small!

According to the very reliable koreaontherocks. com, there are roughly 30 places you can climb in Busan.

The website tells of several climbing gyms throughout the city, but according to Jerry at Busanjin-gu Youth Community Centre (051805-3114) there could be as many fifty or sixty.

Each gym has lessons on offer with all the equipment, changing rooms and expertise you’ll ever need. With more and more expats being drawn to climbing, the gyms are now competing heavily with one another, and in recent years the number of gyms offering English instruction has risen rapidly. Each gym is open ten or more hours a day and you can come and practice at your own speed. They are priced very competitively, roughly 30,000won for a month’s membership in the cheapest places, rising to anything just under 100,000won for the swish, all-you-can-climb place. Every gym will offer a discounted rate if 35 busan haps

By David Holt

you wish to pay for several months in advance.

Busan Climbing Center (051-866-2266 www. cafe.daum.net/busanclimbing) near Nampodong (Ex. 7, Station 111 on Line 1) is a fairly new gym and for 40,000won a month, you can have access to an array of walls from the perfectly vertical to the steep 45˚ overhang that works the muscles you never knew you had. With showers and other essentials available, it makes for a great workout.

Over the last few years there has been a steady rise in the number of outdoor artificial walls, including one shaped like a bull in Daegu (011-2070957). These constructions are perfect for the climber who wants to be outside in the fresh air, but able to come and go as he pleases without having to tag along with a group. According to koreaontherocks.com, there are over six or seven climbing walls around Busan, but there has recently been a new addition.

The Hae-o-reum artificial climbing wall in Geumyeonsan Youth Centre, Geumyeonsan (051-610-3222, www.youth.busan. go.kr/00_ main/) is a monstrous beast.

Standing at almost 18m, you can attempt to try various degrees of climbing, from the beginner to the insane. At its most challenging, there is a speed wall to the left-hand side, which from any novice’s point-of-view would be suicide, but for the expert it proves a worthy adversary.

Further around you get to see the difference in skill required - the overhangs are so steep that to attain a single grip would be an achievement. This center has only been open for a few months, so the equipment is all up-to-date. The ropes, harnesses and chalk can all be borrowed for a small donation and you can go along from 9a.m. to when the sunsets. So as the summer draws near, why not take up this opportunity to learn something new and strap yourself up, clench those buttocks and dry those sweaty, clammy hands.

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