Busan Haps Iss 13 by Haps Magazine

Slot Machine Lottery June 1st through August 27 Win designer luxury items and up to 5,000,000won in Lucky Chips.

Toyota Dealership

Paradise Hotel 1F Novotel Hotel 1408-5 Joong-dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan, Korea www.paradisebusan.com Tel +82-51-749-3550 (Information Desk) +82-51-749-3386

FEATURES

State of the Art 14 5 Questions: Velvet Geena 18 Spring Into Summer 22 People of Haeundae Beach 26

SPORT

Surfin’ R.O.K. 28 Tears of a Giant 30

REGULARS

Events 07 Earthly Possessions 08 Short Stuff 10 On the Beaten Path 12 The Dish: Macaroni for Dummies Tharp On: Travel 44

GUIDES

Summer Festivals 09 Beachin’ in Busan 24 Nightlife Highlights 38 Restaurant Guide 40 Hotel Guide 42 Bar Guide 43 Area Maps 46 Busan Metro Map 49

hile westerner culture most often associates the number thirteen with bad luck, from my point of view it is anything but bad luck. Issue 13 celebrates two years of our existence and little about it concerns luck, either good or bad. Through the efforts of a dedicated staff and a slew of contributors, Busan Haps has grown into what I hoped it would be from the beginning: a solid source of info about Busan, put together by people living here and supported by local business. To be honest, I was barely cognizant that two years had gone by until we hit the final layout weekend. It didn’t occur to me to prepare any special features to commemorate the occasion – after two years of doing this, I just slipped into our normal groove of putting together a new issue that would be better than the last. So, there will be no teary-eyed strolls down memory lane in lucky 13. But, for those who wish to weep, there are eight more pages than before, with more content, more listings and more stuff you’ve come to expect from our growing little rag. To all of you who have been a part of the journey, I give you my sincerest thanks.

Translation:

Roy Early Chris Tharp Jen Sotham Dave Faulk John Bocskay Cheryl Kim Gus Swanda Brian Kilrain Jeff Liebsch Rachel Bailey

Hye Jeong Bae Lisa Hye Park Ji Su Bae Chelsea Kim

Fashion:

Christy Swain Michael Henderson

Photographers:

Ben Weller Mike Dixon Rachel Bailey Matthew Golem Melinda Rubianto Bmc Stinkie Pinkie Kammarul Shahrin

SUBMISSIONS busanhaps@gmail.com

ADVERTISING mikey.busanhaps@gmail.com petra.busanhaps@gmail.com (한국어) Follow us @busanhaps on Twitter FB: Busan Haps Magazine Busan Haps June/July 2011 Issue 13 Business Registration Number: 00001 First Publication Date: Sept, 2, 2009 Address: Ocean Tower #1726, 760-3, Woo 1 Dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan, Republic of Korea 612-822

www.busanhaps.com Subscriptions: soo.busanhaps@gmail.com One Year/6 Issues 10,000 KRW 30% Donated to Women’s Shelters Disclaimer: The opinions in the magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher. Questions or comments: busanhaps@gmail.com ©2011 Busan Haps Magazine

S R O T U B I R T CON 1. Christy Swain and Michael Henderson: Fashion-loving twins (one camera shy) separated at birth, this Kiwi faux-couple would like to divide their time between Paris and Milan, but they’ll settle for Busan and Seoul. Often seen browsing the vintage stores of Seomyeon or the High St. of Nampodong in the never-ending search for their fashion fix. 2. Brian Kilrain Brian Kilrain is from a small New England town you've never heard of. He spent all his 20’s as a glorified carny and is now proud to call Busan home. He also is a big fan of tall jokes. 3. John Bocskay John Bocskay lives in Haeundae, and is totally stoked about his new cooler and beach chair. He is currently sitting behind the Paradise Hotel watching you from a distance through expensive binoculars.

06 BUSANHAPS_june/july 2011

2. 1. 3.

4. Mike Dixon Easily recognizable by the big glass eye sticking out of the left side of his face, Mike Dixon likes taking photos of people (especially drunk people and good-looking women). Generally harmless if not startled.

5. Ben Weller Ben Weller grew up playing with darkroom chemicals and shooting things. He always carries his camera and always gives up his seat to the elderly. On the short list for Time’s Person of the Year.

6. Chris Tharp Chris Tharp hails from Washington State and has lived in Busan over six years. When not banging on a guitar or screaming into a microphone, he likes to write. If you buy him a drink, he’ll tell you all about the times he met Kurt Cobain, but you probably already know the story.

EVENTS Danny Cho June 25th, HQ’s Living Room American comedian Danny Cho has been on Mad TV, as well as other comedy specials and is convinced Koreans have the biggest heads, Chinese people smell like moth balls, and Japanese people have the "ugliest teeth." He spares no one. 10,000 won at the door. Limited seating available. Hosted by Chris Tharp

Elune 2nd Year Anniversary July 2nd Haeundae Busan’s super club, Elune, is celebrating its two year anniversary with the mighty One Drop East and international DJ sensation Felix Cartal from Canada. Oh, Canada!

Mayor’s Cup Surf Championship June 24~26, Haeundae Beach The top 3 surfers from Thailand will be in attendance, along with expat and Korean surfers looking for waves to ride on to victory. There will also be surfing clinics and good food.

EARTHLY POSSESSIONS

With late winter’s haze finally lifted from our city by the sea, it’s time to hoist yourself out of bed and get on that belated spring cleaning you’ve been putting off. While you’re at it, sprucing the place up a bit wouldn’t hurt, either. Busan Haps is here to help with a few tips on how to get your place companyready now that your friends are out of hibernation.

Polish Pottery For those accustomed to home-cooked meals presented attractively, dining from Hello Kitty plates or showing up to a potluck with a carefully prepared dish in a translucent Lock & Lock container can be an affront. The hand-painted Polish Pottery available at Shinsegae, while not a practical way to furnish an entire kitchen, offers a colorful, durable way to dress up your dishwear. The pieces range in size and usefulness — a small bowl can really snazz up a pack of ramyon, or spring for a casserole dish to use on special occasions. Each dish is handmade and safe to use in the microwave or oven.

Innisfree Aroma Spray - Lavender, Bergamot and Orange That bag of food waste left beside the door as a reminder to drop it in the compost later, the cat box, even the smell of sewage wafting up from the street — these and other stinky culprits conspire to make even the tidiest abode seem like a dump. Most of the storebought remedies available look tacky and create a concentrated cloud of smelly, synthetic smog— but how can you mask the pungent air drifting up from your drain? Innisfree’s subtle line of aroma sprays (also available in lemon, rosemary and rose), freshen up the atmosphere in a pinch without pummelling your olfactory organs. Haps is partial to the lavender variety, which also works nicely as an indulgence at the end of the day — a little spritz on your pillow before falling asleep does wonders for de-stressing. You’ll wake up the next morning so well-rested, you might even have the energy to clean that cat box. 08 BUSANHAPS_june/july 2011

Prints from local artists Eric Anderson and Da-in Kim Apartments in Korea aren’t exactly known for their visual appeal. What with the ubiquitous beige wallpaper and the stock furniture that adorns most residences, the task of decorating a place to give it a little flair can seem both urgent and daunting. Fine art is expensive and difficult to ship back home when it’s time to return to the motherland, but a handful of local artists offer an affordable and fetching solution to these decorating dilemmas with a series of prints of their drawings and paintings. Currently on offer from Da-in Kim is The Head Series, full of saturated colors and surreal entanglements of bodies and limbs. Prints range in price from W10,000 to W20,000, and the series can be viewed at www.cyworld.com/daininuk. Eric Anderson, half of the popular local duo, Lhasa, has a series of prints depicting animals and man-beast hybrids that one could imagine having been left on the cutting room floor of Where the Wild Things Are after being deemed a bit too creepy. Anderson’s prints are all W10,000 each, and inquiries can be directed to the artist via email at eric.anderson.a@gmail.com. Whether in the name of style, or simply as a way to cover up that gaping hole in your wallpaper, these prints are a classy option even the frugal among us can afford.

FIESTA FIESTA Summer Festivals The Boryeong Mud Festival (제13회 보령머드축제) July 16 - 24 Over a nine-day, two-weekend span in mid-to-late July, foreigners and Koreans from around the peninsula descend on Daecheon Beach to frolic around in the main attraction – mud. The first mudfest was in 1998, and the festival attracts almost 1.5 million visitors to Boryeong. It is definitely an experience to be remembered, and one that should be on your social calendar this year. www.mudfestival.or.kr Pohang International Fireworks Festival (7회 포항국제불빛 축제 ) July 28 - 31 The 7th edition of the festival takes place around Hyeongsan River Sports Park and Bukbu Beach. Main events include the International Fireworks Contest, City of Light Performance, and the Fireworks Parade. Experience Programs by the Marine Corps and Coast Guard, yachting, beach volleyball and a variety of other events highlight the festival. www.poscofs.com Jisan Valley Rock Festival 2011 (지산밸리록페스티벌2011) July 29 - 31 Located at the Jisan Forest Resort, just a couple hours out of Busan, the Jisan Valley Rock Festival brings in some great acts for a three-day marathon of music, nature and fun. This year’s headliners include The Chemical Brothers, Suede, The Music and Amadou, and Mariam. Tickets are pricey, but well worth the cost. valleyrockfestival.mnet.com 16th Busan Sea Festival (제16회 부산바다축제) August 1 - 9 The nine-day Busan Sea Festival takes place around the city’s beaches, and features a multitude of events, from concerts featuring Korean and international acts, sporting events, magic shows, E-sports, marine sports and much, much more. The festival is one of the more anticipated events in the city each year. www.rockfestival.co.kr/ENG/Sea/01.asp 2011 Busan International Rock Festival (2011 부산국제록 페스티벌) August 5 - 7 Taking place each year at Dadaepo Beach, the International Rock Festival is one of Busan’s best events to check out the latest in rock music. It features a great line-up of established and indie bands, and is a must see for any rock lover on the peninsula. www.rockfestival.co.kr 2011 june/july_BUSANHAPS 09

Short Stuff ON A NEED TO KNOW BASIS New Zealand Consulate Opens Kiwis needing assistance now have a place to visit in Busan, as the New Zealand Consulate was opened on the 3rd floor of the Wonyang Building, in Amnam-dong, Seo-gu, on April 14th. Issues related to cultural exchange, as well as information about tourism, business, studying and immigration in New Zealand are available, but it does not handle visa issuance. Dongwon Group Chairman Kim Jae-cheol was appointed as an Honorary Ambassador to New Zealand. For more information, you can contact the New Zealand Consulate at (051) 600-3350 뉴질랜드 영사관 문을 열다 도움이 필요한 뉴질랜더들은 이제 부산에서 해결할 수 있게 되 었다. 4월 14일 서구 암남동 원양빌딩 4층소재, 뉴질랜드 영사관 이 문을 열었다. 문화교류와 더불어 여행정보, 비지니스,유학,이민등과 관련 된 서비스가 이루어지며 비자관련 일은 취급하지 않는다. 동원 그룹회장 김재철씨가 뉴질랜드 명예대사로 임명되기 도 했다. 자세한 문의는 뉴질랜드 영사관으로 연락하세요. (051) 600-3350

Discovery Channel Goes Korean Discovery Communications and Korea’s Central Multi Broadcasting relaunched the Discovery Channel into Korean language last month. The new channel features 24 hours of programming, with 40% Korean content. The idea behind the move was to highlight the dynamic cultural and economic development transpiring in Korea. First launched on the peninsula in 1994, Discovery Channel Korea now reaches eight million homes and features popular science, technology, history, and blue-chip documentaries. The Discovery Channel reaches 176 million subscribers in the Asia Pacific region, and 397 million cumulative subscribers in over 180 countries in 42 languages since its inception in 1985.

디스커버리 채녈을 한국어로 만나다

디스커버리 채녈이 한국 케이블 방송을 통해 지난달 한국어로 새 롭게 태어났다. 새로 론칭한 디스커버리 채널 코리아는 40퍼센트의 국내 콘텐 츠와 더불어 24시간 프로그램을 방영하는 것이 특징이다. 이런 행 보의 이면에는 한국에서 일어나고 있는 경제개발과 역동적인 문 화에 초점을 맞추는 데 있다 하겠다. 한국에 처음으로 디스커버리 채녈이 전송되기 시작한 것은 1994년이었으며,현재 8백만 가구에서 시청하는 가운데 인기과 학,기술,역사 그리고 고급다큐멘터리 프로그램등이 방영 되고있 다. 디스커버리 채녈은 아시아 태평양 지역에만 176백만명의 가입 자가 있으며 1985년 론칭이후 전세계 180개국 42개 언어로 방 영되어 397백만명의 고정 시청자를 가지고 있다. 10 BUSANHAPS_june/july 2011

Michelin Green Guide Korea Released The Michelin Guide released its Green Guide Korea edition in French on May 17. The Green Guide focuses on major tourist sites, cultural and historical sites, art and architecture, cultural insights, accommodation and restaurant information. Michelin gave its coveted three-star rating to 23 places, including Gyeongbok Palace and Changdeok Palace in Seoul. The 450 page guide sells for 25 euros, and currently is only for sale in France. The Michelin Guide Korea will be released in English this November. Korea is the fifth Asian country to be included in the travel guide series after Japan, Thailand, Singapore and Taiwan.

미슐랭 그린 가이드, 한국편 발간

지난 5월 17일, 미슐랭 가이드에서 그린 가이드 시리즈로 이 번에 한국편을 발간했다. 그린 가이드에서는 주요 관광지와 문화유적지, 예술, 건축 및 문화이해, 그리고 숙박시설과 음식점 정보를 중점으로 다 룬다. 미슐랭은 서울에 있는 경복궁과 창덕궁을 비롯한 23곳의 장 소에 모두가 탐내는 최고 등급 별 셋을 주었다. 책은 총 450쪽으로, 가격은 25유로(한화 약 38,500￦, 미 화 약 $36)이고, 현재 프랑스에서만 판매되고 있다. 영어판은 이번 해 11월에 발간될 예정이다. 한국은 미슐랭 여행 시리즈 중 일본, 태국, 싱가포르, 대만을 이어 아시아에서 5번째로 선정된 나라이다.

HTravel

ON THE

BEATEN PATH

By Dave Faulk

remember being 14-years-old and watching a show on the Discovery Channel about Okinawa. The people in the show were diving into piles of squid and clams and other sea aliens that I didn’t know the names of. It was cool when I was watching, but later that night, I definitely had some Fear Factor-style nightmares of choking down slimy monkfish. Flash forward to present-day in Busan. Who would have thought that one of the coolest things to do in this city was to eat the stuff that kept me up at night all those years ago? The Taejongdae clam tents are a good place to find weird and delicious seafood. After a long-ish bus ride to the end of Yeong-do (Taejongdae terminus), walk along the parking lot overlooking a pebble beach, and scope out the tents. Feel like the prettiest girl at the ball as all the ladies who work the tents shout, “Hey you! Come on! Here!” coaxing you into their tent. Don’t stress about the selection process: all tents are pretty much the same. They have no menus either; our particular lady told us “memory,” gesturing towards the buckets of seafood out in front. To order, try miming what you want (or speak some Korean if you’ve got the skills), and the ladies will take care of the portions. I think clams (조개 – jo-gae) and mussels (홍합 – hong-hap) are the best choices. There are also prawns (새우 – sae-oo), some smaller shellfish, as well as Gaebul, the pink, sea penis-looking things, if you’re feeling saucy. There are no prices posted, but both times I’ve gone, it’s been about the same. For five people, mussels, clams, beer and soju should run 80-100k, depending on how much you drink. Not bad, considering the large portions and exceptional freshness on offer — divers are about 50 meters away from the diners, plucking the shellfish out of the ocean. The tables are covered with colorful umbrellas that are lit from underneath as the sun goes down, creating a beautiful scene to enjoy while you munch. Taejongdae is also a scenic park with beautiful ocean views, so you can hike off your dinner after you gorge yourself on bivalves. Or, if you’re feeling lazy, take a small train around Taejongdae, or ferry over to the small rock islands off the coast. Even if you just come for dinner, a meal along Taejongdae’s pebble beach is a singular experience that’s not to be missed. FROM JAGALCHI/NAMPO: Jagalchi metro station exit 10, take bus 8. Ride to the end of the line (Taejongdae). Walk down the path between Family Mart and the bathroom toward Pebble Beach. You can check out more great ideas around the city on the Busan Awesome blog at cityawesome.com

Feel like the prettiest girl at the ball as all the ladies who work the tents shout, “Hey you! Come on! Here!” coaxing you into their tent.

12 BUSANHAPS_june/july 2011

HMusic

STATE OF

THE ART By Rachel Bailey

ew bands are as aptly named as Wayfarer State, the banner under which prolific local singer-songwriter Trey Yip performs. Hailing from New Orleans, Yip has busked on the streets of San Francisco, played alongside old Memphis guitar men and pacified many a soju-doused crowd with his soulful tales of love and wandering. So when Yip says in “Author’s Preface” from his newest album The Faustian Bargain that the songs you’re about to hear are “stories about the state of the world, the state of mankind,” you get the feeling the man speaks with the authority of experience. Yip has earned himself a reputation as one of Busan’s old souls, and this latest collection of songs reflects that. Much of The Faustian Bargain is a heartfelt examination of the merits of our many cures for and distractions from suffering in the modern world. This theme is perfectly captured in the first proper song on the album, “The Abolition of Mankind,” a meandering rallying cry to anyone who’s ever gotten sick of checking Facebook or munching pills. “We’ve traded all these pains, we’ve cured them in the modern West through these technological advances,” Yip says over Irish coffee in his Gwangan apartment. “We’ve tried to end all these kinds of suffering, and what we’ve done is created a society of people that are bored, depressed. And we have medicine for that, which just makes us more depressed, so it’s just a different kind of pain now. Either way, you have to trade something to end your suffering, so we just keep trading it away from something that might be worse. That’s the bargain with the devil.” This is weighty stuff to carry around on the back of just a voice, a guitar and a harmonica, so Yip enlisted Better Magic Music’s Gabriel Ulfan (as well as guitarists Robbie Erickson and Gino Brann) to build on his songs. Recognizing the strength of Yip’s songwriting chops, Ulfan got to work crafting musical arrangements that would help drive home the message. “I wanted to give the songs the sonic weight that they deserved,” Ulfan says. “When Trey sings about a hopeless man who eventually hangs himself, I wanted the listener to feel the dramatics of that kind of song. So what you will end up hearing is a lot of twisted organs and dark ambient stuff, but there's a lot of pretty piano and sweet chords in there too.” Perhaps one of the most inspired bits of production flair was entirely unplanned. The day Japan was struck by the tsunami, Yip and Ulfan were recording “The Abolition of Man” in Yip’s apartment when an air-raid siren started sounding nearby. “We had to stop recording and we just put the microphone out the window,” Yip says. “It was in the same key and everything!” The siren wound up in the final version of the song, whining eerily under Yip’s voice.

We’ve tried to end all these kinds of suffering, and what we’ve done is created a society of people that are bored, depressed. And we have medicine for that, which just makes us more depressed, so it’s just a different kind of pain now

14 BUSANHAPS_june/july 2011

Somehow, through the siren, the sad storie s and the search for meaning in a sea of super ficial diversions, Yip manages to imbue The Faust ian Bargain with a sense of hope that he finds in literature, good conversation, and the love of a good woman. He doesn’t pontificate or moralize. Rathe r, Yip approaches his songwriting as a means of openi ng a conversation. “If anything, I want to make people ask questions and make their own decisions and go forward from that. When someone hears some thing and asks me questions about a song, I know they were listening.” Yip won’t be sticking around for questioning much longer. Come September, he’ll be wayward again, this time on his way to teach in Taiwan. Busan music fans will be sad to see him go, but we can comfort ourselves with the knowledge that, as long he’s out there on the road somewhere, another batch of rich, thoughtful songs will be coming just behin d him. To hear Trey Yip’s music, including songs from The Faustian Bargain, visit wayfarerstate.ban dcamp.com

5 QUESTIONS:

VELVET GEENA

ented. What She’s smart, she’s hot and she’s tal girl, is there not to like about rockabillyiago and the Velvet Geena? Just off a tour of As now. west coast of the U.S., she’s back home We gave her Five Questions.

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Photos: Ben Weller Assisted by Sun Xin Make-up & Hair: Kim Sun-ju 16 BUSANHAPS_june/july 2011

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“ I hope that it will give them a different perspective on what they know as “Korea,” if they had any presumptions at all. But ultimately, we hope that people understand that it’s music and that it transcends borders and language.”

e in in em r f r.” e o ke

2011 june/july_BUSANHAPS 17

veral You have toured in se n you tell Ca . es tri un dif ferent co ces in fans? us about the dif feren most Where have you been d and what ive ce re lly enthusiastica to play? is your favorite country night is different and Every venue and every eralize about a gen to I would be hesitant ough it’s always fun to cer tain fan base, alth e rockabilly fans there aus bec play in Japan, lifestyle. You’ll have consider rockabilly a coming dressed up s folk old children and n us. tha more authentically rd to playing cities in wa for g kin loo are We month. It’s our first this of end the U.S. at the ’t expect the crowd don I time to go the States. we will do what but us, like ly ate to immedi ple enjoy the peo t tha e we do best and hop m a different the e l giv show. I hope that it wil as “Korea,” w kno y the at wh perspective on But ultiall. at ns ptio if they had any presum d that tan ers people und mately, we hope that rs and rde bo s end nsc tra it t it’s music and tha language.

album to lisWhat’s your favorite ish? How do fin ten to from start to sic? mu you like to listen to rful music and so There is so much wonde re, that it’s hard the many great artists out e. I’ve told you orit fav one t jus int to pin po influenced by, s wa I t tha about the artists s iou ones. I still so those are some obv m are ver y the of me So collect CDs! my recent favorites of e obscure, I guess. On I I’m in my car driving, is Imelda May. When nce to cha a had t en’ hav I t listen to CDs tha or I just tune into the listen to in a long time, AFN 102.7. When I’m tion sta io American rad I listen to my iPod, d, traveling with the ban just sleep! but most of the time I

me cringe e k a m y a m t a h W ersity in iv d f o k c la e h t is ut it is to b , e n e c s ic s u m e th don’t my advantage. I t I don’t u b , it w o ll fo y ll rea you could s s e u g I . it e k li dis lly care a e r ’t n o d I t a h t say ringe. for it enough to c 18 BUSANHAPS_june/july 2011

out the ou feel ab eneral? W h at d o y e scen in g ic s u m n a op s ce n e Kore oes the K-p ink that d r, e k c ro As a o you th cringe? D d internamake you represente nt by ll e w is a Kore of tale r its depth tionally fo K-pop? ers

rock uishes the r. It disting e proud of ev n I’m . e, p p o No ream K-p st in a e that we m u tr st from ju girl. But it’s p o -p K posed to a es to be ex not being any chanc cuses on m fo e ia av d h e t don’ se mass m au c e on T V feab s , m lic the pub usic progra m w fe a me cringe ly may make K-pop. On at h W s. d l ba n usic scene, ture actua it y in the m really follow rs e iv d f o is the lack ge. I don’t my advanta uess you could say but it is to Ig . it e. e lik n’t dis gh to cring it, but I do for it enou re a e c h p lly a ry re ra t o that I don’ very temp and K-pop is a unt of time ost o m I feel that a e th t c m e t u sp b re ” I . rs n nome no come “sta ut in to be c ome p e b ey ey th h T rt ef fo ans. not musici their lives. of them are other things later in o d ey do. A in what th singers to ry talented priate way ve ro re p a p a e Som rhaps more e p rent from t u fe b if d e, negativ aren’t that ey th . There at ry th ts in a facto to put it, is make to ed produc c la u u d ro rm p fo r mass okie cutte ceive o re c a st a e b le seems to orea, or at K in of s t u lo o a fam here are someone , porarily. T n m o n te e t h m g o n tli the spo to this phe g it y. n ti rm u ifo ib n tr u n certain factors co nd to like a oted in te ro s is n a it re ... o but K oughts d in looks, th will get tire Uniformit y per. People later. e e d ch u m r or something nds soone ictable tre of the pred

2011 june/july_BUSANHAPS 19

SPRING INTO

SUMMER... new looks for a new season.

Two Busanites show off the latest trends for summer 2011 from department store cool to vintage store chic.

22 BUSANHAPS_june/july 2011

PHOTOGRAPHY: Mike Dixon STYLED BY: Christy Swain & Michael Henderson MODELS: Angela Crebbin & Pete Polanowski

2011 june/july_BUSANHAPS 23

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’ N I ACH

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k out c e h C sand? d Surfing Dadaepo ( e r o m Want Beaches an Haps online. .com pages busanhaps www. 24 BUSANHAPS_june/july 2011

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HGuide

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o akd With c oa st can lay s a n d, H uthern at you the shore. th er than along the so h g e nou g on s cal beache es are smooth day chilla xin dging and lo a lo n y h to jo it r s n w .k e de Th ge .go all villa nket an h.geoje your bla beach is a sm ck out: englis e e Near th more info, ch or eats. F

THE PEOPLE OF HAEUNDAE BEACH By John Bocskay Photography Matthew Golem

Among the throngs, are the regulars; the folks who comprise the local landscape, the characters who give the beach its character. 26 BUSANHAPS_june/july 2011

IMAGES from left to right Musician Go Gyoung-gu, Yoon Tae-won and Speedo crew, Kim Jong-man, sketch artist Seo Gyoung-hwa

beach is a simple thing - sea meets sand; the rest are details - but a beach isn’t really a beach until somebody loves it. Among Busan’s beaches, Haeundae suffers no lack of affection. Hundreds of thousands of people crowd Korea’s best known strand every weekend in the summer, turning it into a small city of halfclad umbrella dwellers. There, among the throngs, are the regulars; the folks who comprise the local landscape, the characters who give the beach its character. Down behind the Paradise Hotel hangs a group of bronzed and muscular guys who play soccer, throw frisbees, and groove to music wearing naught but Speedos and dark tanning oil. You may have noticed them, or else you have noticed a lot of other people noticing them. In a time and place where many people still swim in shorts and T-shirts, the old folks stare, children giggle and woman blush. Many snap furtive photos. Some ask for autographs. The unofficial leader of the pack is Yoon Tae-won, 55, who hails from Busan, but lives and works in Seoul. From nine-to-five, Monday to Friday, Yoon wears a suit and tie, but every weekend he heads down to Busan, sheds the monkey suit, and opts for a modified Speedo (He rolls the backside up so it forms a cord across his bum). Mr. Yoon recently became a minor celebrity when the TV show Superstar K featured him, not as a contestant, but as a guy who lives his art, which he says is having a good time. He says he likes to teach the young kids how to have a good time too, and to make a spectacle for visitors to the beach. While Yoon and company are indeed a sight, you can walk right past Kim Jong-man and not notice him, though if you’ve looked to the sky on a Sunday afternoon, you may have seen a colorful rectangular kite, soaring and diving under the control of an expert hand. Follow the kite string down and you will find him working a large spool with both hands, jerking and spinning what looks like the runaway wheel of an ancient loom. He’s happy to talk about his several dozen kites, which he crafts from bamboo and rice paper. His are faithful replicas of the signal kites used long ago by the military to convey specific instructions like “rendezvous on the mountain” or

“attack when the moon is up,” or to describe the strength, movements, and location of the enemy. On weekends, Kim volunteers at the Korean Traditional Culture Preservation Society, where he teaches interested folks how to make and fly kites. He would like you, too, to go fly a kite, in the best possible sense. If you have strolled the concrete esplanade, you may have heard old Korean popular melodies being played on a twangy, trebly guitar. The source of the music is Go Gyounggu, 82, who sits out with his axe, his amp, and a beat-up old songbook containing handwritten notation and lyrics to a few hundred songs. Go wears a suit, a grin and a fedora like your grandfather used to wear. He says he’s been coming to Haeundae every Sunday for twenty years, and he is usually joined by friends, who sit around and croon songs that were a hit before your mother was born. Go says he has no interest in Superstar K, and he doesn’t play for money, though a Japanese tourist once gave him 200,000 won for playing a Japanese song on request. He takes requests for free too, as long as you lend a voice. Further down, where the esplanade opens into a small crescent, sit the portrait artists. They lounge in folding canvas chairs and bark “Sketch!” to passers-by, hawking pencil portraits which take about 15 minutes and cost 30,000 won. I stopped to chat with local artist Seo Gyoung-hwa, age coyly undisclosed, who, when asked how long she had worked there, joked that it was her first day. A peek behind her easel revealed that she had been drawing for much longer than that; a true likeness of the young woman who sat in front of her, one of the thousands of faces that pass her easel each day. I asked Seo, “Why pay thirty bucks for a portrait when you can just take a photo?” “It’s a nice souvenir,” she said. “Families like to have a portrait to capture a moment.” Plenty of moments remain to be captured this summer at Haeundae Beach. See you there. John Bocskay is a Haeundae resident. He may be found somewhere along Haeundae Beach with a Day-glo green Frisbee and a cold bottle of beer.

From nine-to-five, Monday to Friday, Yoon wears a suit and tie, but every weekend he heads down to Busan, sheds the monkey suit, and opts for a modified Speedo

2011 june/july_BUSANHAPS 27

HSport

’ N I F R U

. K . R.O

l iona t a n Inter ryl Kim p u or’s C d Photos by Che y a nM a tory an s S u al B ionship u n n p 3rd A g Cham s a warm up for the summer season, more vthan in 200 surfers from all over Korea and representaSurf tives from the international surfing community

will gather at Haeundae Beach for three days as part of The Busan Mayor’s Cup International Surfing Championship. This year’s event will welcome a team of the top six surfers from Thailand, in addition to VIP guest, International CEO of Ocean and Earth, Paul Munton, who is also the International CEO of Komunity Project. In addition to officiating at the event, he will also be on hand to help select riders for the 2011/12 Korean O&E surf team, and launch both O&E and Kommunity for the first time in Korea. The Komunity TProject, was founded by 10 time ASP world surfing champion, Kelly Slater. The open event, which is now in its third year, actively encourages surfers and non-surfers to take part and get in the water to experience that unique feeling that only surfing provides. For a small entry fee, participants will get lunch Saturday and Sunday, fun games, a goodie bag and T-shirt; plus there will be music, sponsored booths, photo shoots, learn2surf lessons with the top surfers from Thailand sponsored by Ocean and Earth and weekend long board rentals and surf clinics sponsored by Songjeong Surf Club. For the first time ever, there will also be SUP (stand up paddle board) lessons sponsored by Pine Ocean, all of which are free and open to the public. The event is free for spectators, as are the clinics from O&E, Songjeong and Pine Ocean. On Saturday and Sunday, the top sponsored Korean surfers take to the water to go head-to-head with sponsored international surfers in a new ‘special class’ which is paving the way to a more international event, and allotting points to the top Korean surfers to allow them to surf in competitions abroad. This event promises to be the “MUST” attend event of the summer season, so come on out, lube up with some sunscreen and enjoy the sun, sand and surf. The Busan Mayor’s Cup International Surfing Championship will be held Friday, June 24th – Sunday, June 26th at Haeundae Beach. For more information, check out ‘Surfing Korea’ on Facebook or email: cherylkim2009@hotmail.com

28 BUSANHAPS_june/july 2011

HSport

TEARS OF A

GIANT by Professor Gus

BUSAN I’PARK SCHEDULE Saturday June 25th I’Park vs. Ulsan 7pm Saturday July 2nd I’Park vs. Seongnam 7pm Saturday July 23rd I’Park vs Suwon 7pm

If you’ve been to a Giants game, then you have heard the many songs the fans sing over the course of the game. Professor Gus has translated them so you can sing along and actually understand what they are saying. That said, what they say, is a fair dinkum different than fight songs you’ve heard at the ballpark back home.

Come Back to Busan Harbor

돌아와요 부산항에

꽃피는 동백섬에 봄이 왔건만 Goat pee-nun bohm-ee wat-gun-mahn 형제떠난 부산항엔 갈매기만 슬피 우네 Hyung-jae daw-nahn Busanhahng-ain gahlmah-gee-mahn sull-pee oo-nay 오륙도 돌아가는 연락선마다 Oh-ryuk-doh dohl-ah-gah-nun yeon-lahksun-mah-dah 목메여 불러봐도 대답없는 내 형제여 Moak may-yaw bool-law bwah-doh day-dahp-awp-nun nay hyung-jae-yaw 돌와와요 부산항에 dohl-wah-wah-yo Busan-hahng-ay 그리운 내 형제 guh-ree-oon nay hung-jae The flowers are blooming on Dong Baek Island; spring has arrived. In Busan harbor, the seagulls cry tears of sadness for their brothers who have left. Every time the ferry-boats from Oh-ryuk Island drift off, they cry out with ne’er a reply, “My brothers, come back to Busan! My much longed-for brothers.” For more rousing selections, check Haps online.

30 BUSANHAPS_june/july 2011

busanhaps.com/busan-ipark-soccer

32 BUSANHAPS_june/july 2011

Advertorial

THE HUMAN BRIDGE As the old adage goes: Take care of your teeth and they will take care of you. Over the years that saying remains the same. And while that adage has never changed, there is little about the industry that helps you take care of your teeth that has remained the same. Dental procedures are constantly changing as new technology and innovation keep a fast pace with the changing world. One of the more interesting advancements in the dental industry is the area of oral prostheses for people who have lost a tooth, for whatever reason, and need it replaced. A recently developed process known as â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Human Bridge,â&#x20AC;&#x2122; is aimed at people who, in the past, were forced to undergo expensive and lengthy procedures. Human Bridge has been a welcome addition to those wishing to avoid high costs and complicated surgical procedures. And local dentists at Dentapia (www.dentapia.kr) are at the forefront of this new technology. Rather than the traditional method of drilling into the jaw to insert an implant to replace a lost tooth, Dentapia attaches the new prosthesis to an existing tooth. The whole procedure is practically painless, a fraction of the cost and is done in far less time than the old method. In fact, the procedure doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t require anaesthesia, so you can get back to your life soon after the implant is put in place. For more information on Human Bridge and how it can work for you, contact the Dentapia offices at 051-819-3000 or see them om the web at www.dentapia.kr. They offer a wide variety of dental procedures at a reasonable cost in an English-friendly environment. 2011 june/july_BUSANHAPS 33

HTravel

THE SUMMER

GATEWAY

ith the summer vacation upon us, many people are starting to plan, or are booking trips either around Korea or abroad. Summertime is a huge travel season on the peninsula, so preparing and booking in advance is always a key priority so you don’t get disappointed when everything is sold out. Message boards around the country are always flooded with requests like: How do I go about getting a ticket to somewhere? Are there any English speaking travel services here? Where can I go to book my tickets? Hana Tour, located at BEXCO (Line 2, Centum City/BEXCO Exit 206) is a full-service travel company that can handle all your travel needs and requests – in English. The travel agency specializes in air tickets, hotels, railway tickets in Japan and Europe, packages for skiing, golf, trekking and cruises. Almost any kind of trip you are thinking of, Manager Hana Lee is confident they can find you the best price with no hidden fees or service charges. “We do our best for our customers to help them plan and enjoy the best trip possible,” she said. “But my advice to our customers is to book early as you can almost always get a better price.” For countries that require visas, Hana Tour also provides visa services, as well as travel insurance options and also small luggage bags and accessories are available in their office. Wherever your plans are this summer, either domestic or international, Ms. Lee is always ready to give a helping hand. “We have a lot of specials going on this summer around the world, so stop by or call and we will help you get on your way to your dream vacation,” she said. Their office is open Monday through Friday from 9 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. and Saturday from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. Hana Tour is located in BEXCO on the 1st floor next to Starbucks. They can be reached at 051.747.2924 or you can check out their website at guest.hanatour.com

34 BUSANHAPS_june/july 2011

HFood

MACARONI

FOR DUMMIES By Jen Sotham

I walk through my door after a long day at work. I’m crampy and cranky and spent. All I want to do is plop down on my couch and watch an episode (or three) of the newest HBO show I’ve been turned on to. But I’m starving. I thumb through my takeout menus, but I’m not really in the mood for Korean food. Pizza won’t cut it either. Sound familiar? Here are a few of my tried and true, no hassle recipes, all involving my number one comfort food - elbow macaroni. These dishes take less than twenty minutes to prepare, and are made with ingredients you can find at most of the big marts.The trick in whipping out quick meals is recognizing that you are going to have these moments, and stocking up on the ingredients beforehand. Elbow macaroni is ever-present here, it’s super cheap and most of the big marts have a few brands to choose from. My macaroni of choice is Gallo, which is available at Emart and comes in a red bag. The recipes below will make two large servings. For each, start by boiling about 1/3 of a 500g bag of macaroni and draining it.

THE DISH

Spicy T Macar una oni Sal ad Ingredients: 1 250g Can of Light or White Tuna 2 Small bell peppers (I prefer yellow and red), diced 1 Small onion, diced 20-25 Pitted black olives, diced 15 Diced Jalapeno Rings ½ Cup Mayonnaise 2 Tbsp. of Dijon mustard This is a cold dish, so when you finish boiling the macaroni, run it under cold water in a colander for a few moments. Thoroughly drain the tuna and mash it up in a large bowl with a fork. Add the mayo and mustard and mix thoroughly. Add the other ingredients, and add salt and pepper to taste. Mix in the macaroni and stir until the ingredients are spread evenly. Chill in the fridge for 10-15 minutes. 36 BUSANHAPS_june/july 2011

Pasta Fagio li Ingredients: 1 large (28oz) can of Whole Peeled Tomatoes 1 400g can of Divella Cannellini beans 5-6 Cloves of Garlic, peeled 3 Cups of Water Crushed Red Pepper Flakes (1-2 Tbsp. depending how spicy you like it) ½ Cup Grated Parmesan Cheese Use the handle of a knife to crush the garlic cloves, to release the flavor. In a saucepan, lightly brown the garlic in a thin layer of olive of grape seed oil. Open the can of tomatoes and, with your hand, squish each one into the pan (splatter warning!!!). Drain and add the cannellini beans and 2 cups of water. Add salt, black pepper and red pepper flakes. Bring to a simmer, stirring occasionally. Slowly add the rest of the water as you stir. After about 12 minutes, add the macaroni and Parmesan cheese. Give a few more good stirs and voila!

Jalapeno Mac-n-Ch eese Ingredients: 5 Slices of Processed Cheese (I prefer Seoul Milk brand) ½ Cup of Shredded Mozzarella or Cheddar 1 Cup of Milk 2 Tablespoons of Butter (I use I Can’t Believe It’s Not Butter) 15 Diced Jalapeno Rings In a small saucepan, heat up milk and butter on a low flame. Do not bring to a boil. Add cheese, jalapenos and a tablespoon each of salt and black pepper. Stir constantly until the cheese is fully melted. Pour over macaroni. If you have an oven, mix in ½ cup of breadcrumbs and bake on 150 degrees Celsius for 10-12 minutes.

DONGHA

HNightlife

DRUNKEN SHRIMP BAR

NIGHT ON THE TOWN

By Brian Kilrain

Drunken Shrimp is a three story, open-air bar with tables on the roof looking out over the beach. The bartenders are friendly, the shrimp is tasty and there’s nothing wrong with that view. Just pay attention during the nightly cocktail-fire show.

he door to Drunken Shrimp looks inconspicuous enough — almost barely noticeable next to the convenience store. But then you hit that funky stairwell that wraps up around the inside corner of the building until it opens up onto the first floor bar. You can stay on the stairwell and head on up if you want to play darts on the second floor. A few more after that, and you are on the roof looking out on the main strip at Haeundae Beach. All inside the ordinary looking doorway. Though it stands a stone throw away from the beach, I wouldn’t call it a ‘beach bar.’ The interior has a hint of refinement and the bartenders are imported from Seoul for added flair and good pours. They can mix any cocktail you want, from martinis and Manhattans to Caipirinha and of course, mojitos. Happy Hour is Sunday from 6 p.m. - 9 p.m. with all you can drink draft beer for $10 bucks along with other specials. The bar itself spans three floors, including the roof deck complete with a great ocean views. If you are trying to maintain a lily white complexion, then you can catch your rays inside where the first and second floors have floor to ceiling windows looking right out onto the main strip with its parade of people. It’s the closest to Mardi Gras you’re gonna get in Busan and that ain’t a bad thing. Owner, Alexandra Kim, a seasoned financial planner by day, has dreamed about opening a bar since she was 19-years-old. When asked about the bar’s name, she replies with a coy giggle, “I love shrimp! And Drunken Shrimp is my nickname.” She hedged on elaborating, but the name is catchy and I will give it another try next time. You might have thought I would never get to it, but yes...they serve shrimp! All Alexandra’s recipes. I had a sampling of each and found them all very tasty: there’s light, crispy batter fried shrimp you can pop in your mouth, cajun and garlic sauteed shrimp, bbq shrimp and for the more adventurous, medium-sized butter-shrimp that you eat whole... head, tail, shell and all! One sure-to-be-popular service from Drunken Shrimp this summer will be their cocktail delivery and take-out service for beach goers. If you find yourself parched on the sand, on the verge of drinking salt water, give a call to the bar and they’ll deliver food and drinks – right to your umbrella! So, when you hit the beach this summer, stop in and say hi to Alexandra. “Haeundae is the natural place to go during the summer,” she says. “We have a different mood than other Haeundae bars and it’s a great location.” Maybe you can even get her to tell the story behind her nickname.

38 BUSANHAPS_june/july 2011

Drunken Shrimp is located next to the Seacloud Hotel, right off the main beach road. It’s open from 6:30 p.m. to 4:00 a.m., with extended hours in the summer. 051-747-9334

BEACHED ON THE BEACH By Roy Early

Beached is a cool new cafe and sports bar that opened up right on the beach in Gwangan. They have a great view of the ocean and the Diamond Bridge, and they are the only bar in town with a wide selection of KIWI BEER.

NIGHT ON THE TOWN

Beached is located on Gwangan- li Beach, near the Twosome Place and 700 Beer. Open 2 p.m. on the weekends. 051-924-9662

t can be hard here in Busan, between the franchise bars and the street-drink spots, to find a bar you can make your home base, one you can really call your own. It takes a delicate chemistry of staff, menu items and atmosphere to make a place like this, and a new bar recently opened in Busan that may finally be the perfect fit. The aptly name Beached opened its doors in late February on that well-traveled stretch of walkway across the shore from Gwangan-li Beach. But with the high turnover of busineses on the strip, one has to wonder why co-owner and Kiwi Craig Morrison would open a bar in a place so saturated with watering holes already. “I have lived in Gwangan-li since 2002,” he says. “So it made perfect sense to open a bar. You know, what is not to love about the beach here?” Beached offers an alternative to the thump-thump dance parties found elsewhere along the beach. Sure, Morrison and co-owner Hyun-ah pump the tunes, but at levels that allow conversation among those gathered around the horseshoe bar and the surrounding tables. Even a bit of K-Pop in the background can be ruinous, so they keep it simple with good ol’ rock and roll, taking a smattering of requests throughout the night. In addition to stocking six different Monteith’s brews, Beached’s owners spread the Kiwi love over the menu with the offering of fish and chips, homemade fried chicken, and both Marmite and Vegemite toasties. Whether you pledge allegiance to the All Blacks or hail from the Land Down Under, you can please your palette here. This American digs the Marmite, and it is good to know that even though no store in our fair city offers it, Morrison has a friend in Bagginsville who helps him make sure that anyone with a hankering for yeast extract gets his fix. Best of all, Beached possesses what among Busan watering holes is a rare essence indeed — it feels like a neighborhood bar, and that is something you can appreciate whether you’re a Kiwi or not. Morrison is an avid rugby fan and makes sure to feature all games, no matter what the hour or the day. Though I’m not a rugby fan myself, I like that kind of dedication in a bar. I like a place where you can have a chat with someone, listen to rock and roll, and grab a simple bite to soak up the beer. And so I’ve decided to make myself one of those hallmarks of great neighborhood bars the world over — I’ve become a regular. And after visiting Beached, you may find you want to be one too. 2011 june/july_BUSANHAPS 39

Restaurant Guide Guide to Restaurants ₩ - Meals Under ₩10,000 ₩₩ - Meals are Reasonably Priced ₩₩₩ - Be prepared to spend some cash 3 - Smoking area is available Busan Haps recommended restaurant

FOO

D IS GOO D

VIS ILL FOR IT B H MO USA UN N RE G FOO HAP RY D L S.CO ? IST IN M GS

Gwangan-li Western

Beached Cafe and Sports Bar 051-924-9662 ₩ busanhaps.com/nightlife/beached-cafe-sports-bar Breeze Burns 051-754-4670 ₩₩ www.busanhaps.com/food/breeze-burns Burger and Pasta 051-751-6631 ₩₩3 busanhaps.com/food/burger-and-pasta-gwangan Guess Who Restaurant 051-757-1213 ₩₩3 busanhaps.com/food/guess-who-restaurant

Italian

Pasta e Vino 051-746-2500 ₩₩ busanhaps.com/food/pasta-e-vino

Korean

Cusco 051-624-0990 ₩✔ busanhaps.com/food/cusco Shim Hae Raw Fish Restaurant 051-753-6868 ₩₩ Fam Island Sushi Buffet 051-751-6100 ₩₩ www.famisland.com Four Season Raw Fish ₩₩ busanhaps.com/food/four-season-raw-fish Korean Natural Food 051-751-5534 ₩₩ busanhaps.com/food/korean-natural-food Millak Raw Fish Center 051-757-3000 ₩₩ Sujeonggung Sea Food Restaurant 051-753-2811 ₩₩ www.waterstone.co.kr

Japanese

Sinshen 051-627-9191 ₩ Ginza 051-751-7077 ₩₩₩

Mexican

Fuzzy Navel 051-754-6349 ₩₩✔ www.fuzzynavel.co.kr

Vietnamese

Saigon Pho ₩₩ busanhaps.com/food/saigon-“pho” 40 BUSANHAPS_june/july 2011

Kyungsungdae Western

Aussie Burger ₩ busanhaps.com/food/aussie-burger Burger and Pasta 051-625-6651 ₩✔ busanhaps.com/food/burger-pasta-kyungsung Eva’s 051-628-5653 ₩✔ busanhaps.com/food/eva’s HQ Bar 010-2857-2367 ₩✔ busanhaps.com/food/hq-bar Painted Chair Cafe 051-611-3666 ₩ busanhaps.com/food/painted-chair-cafe The Coffee Pot ₩ busanhaps.com/food/coffee-pot

Chinese

Ni Hao Chinese ₩ busanhaps.com/food/ni-hao-chinese

Indian

Shabana 051-621-4821 ₩₩ www.busanindiancurry.info

Italian

Bon Bon 051-621-0906 ₩₩

Korean

Baekdu ₩₩ busanhaps.com/food/baekdu Eu Dae Di ₩₩ busanhaps.com/food/eu-dae-di Maesaengiga 051-622-0611 ₩₩ busanhaps.com/food/maesaengiga Naraso ₩₩ busanhaps.com/food/naraso

Japanese

Chibi Chibi Oknomayaki 051-904-8257 ₩₩ town.cyworld.com/chibichibi The Sushi 051-611-4043 ₩₩

Turkish

Aile Mediterranean 070-8234-6962 ₩₩

Seomyeon Western

Breeze Burns 051-818-4670 ₩₩ www.busanhaps.com/food/breeze-burns Fuzzy Navel 051-746-6439 ₩₩✔ www.fuzzynavel.co.kr Judie Nine Brau 051-667-7979 ₩₩✔ www.busanhaps.com/food/judie-nine-brau T.G.I. Friday’s 051-805-3164 ₩₩ www.tgif.co.kr The Pancake ₩ www.busanhaps.com/food/pancake

Italian

Florian’s ₩₩ www.busanhaps.com/food/florian

Korean

Buffalo Chicken 051-805-3512 ₩₩✔ www.busanhaps.com/food/buffalo-chicken Dragon Dream (The Cave Bar) 051-646-5924 ₩₩ www.busanhaps.com/food/dragon-dream-cave-bar Golm Ok ₩₩✔ www.busanhaps.com/food/golm-ok Hamkyeong Myeon-Ok ₩ www.busanhaps.com/food/hamkyung-myeon-ok

Vegetarian

Loving Hut 051-808-7718 ₩₩ www.lovinghut.kr

PNU Western

Farmers Burgers ₩ www.busanhaps.com/food/farmers-burgers

Indian

Ganesh ₩₩ www.busanhaps.com/food/ganesh

Shabana 051-517-1947 ₩₩ www.busanindiancurry.info

Mexican

Taco’s Family 010-5688-6303 ₩ www.busanhaps.com/food/taco’s-family

Turkish

Kebabistan ₩₩ www.busanhaps.com/food/kebabistan

Vietnamese

Pho ₩ www.busanhaps.com/food/pho

Vegetarian

Loving Hut 051-518-0115 ₩ www.lovinghut.kr

Haeundae Western

Breeze Burns 051-747-4670 ₩₩ www.busanhaps.com/food/breeze-burns Geckos Bar and Grill 051-747-3069 ₩₩✔ geckosterrace.com House on a Hill 051-743-2212 ₩₩ www.busanhaps.com/food/house-hill Morning Glory ₩₩ Sharky’s 010-4038-2907 ₩✔ www.busanhaps.com/food/sharkys-bar-and-grill Starface 051-742-0600 ₩✔ www.busanhaps.com/food/starface-dalmaji Starlight Cafe ₩ www.busanhaps.com/food/starlite-cafe T.G.I. Friday’s 051-740-6531 ₩₩ www.tgif.co.kr The Wolfhound Pub 051-746-7913 ₩₩✔ www.wolfhoundpub.com

Indian

Ganesh ₩ www.busanhaps.com/food/ganesh-indian Ganga 051-740-6670 ₩₩₩ www.ganga.co.kr/en/main.html Namaste 051-746-1946 ₩₩ namasterestaurant.co.kr

Italian

Bella Cita 051-747-6351 ₩₩ www.bellacita.co.kr Cine De Chef 051-745-2880 ₩₩₩ www.shinsegae.com/store/restaurant El Olive Italian 051-752-7300 ₩₩₩ www.elolive.co.kr Il Sole 051-7474523 ₩₩₩ ilsole.drupalgardens.com Van Gogh Terrace 051-741-3767 ₩₩ www.vangoghs-terrace.co.kr/

Japanese

Gen Sushi 051-740-6630 ₩₩ www.겐스시.com Hotaru 051-703-4692 ₩₩ Suntory Japanese 051-742-5788 ₩₩ www.busanhaps.com/food/suntory-japanese Umi 051-741-4337 ₩₩₩

Korean

An Ga Korean BBQ 051-742-7852 ₩₩

www.busanhaps.com/food/ga-korean-bbq Cheolma Hanwoo Bulgogi 051-709-4000 ₩₩₩ Drunken Shrimp 051-747-9334 ₩₩✔ www.busanhaps.com/food/drunken-shrimp Jagalchi Eel 051-742-5387 ₩₩ www.busanhaps.com/food/jagalchi-eel Maris 051-704-8870 Somunnan 051-746-0003 ₩₩ www.busanhaps.com/food/somunnan-beef-rib

Mexican

Fuzzy Navel 051-746-6439 ₩₩✔ www.fuzzynavel.co.kr Hello Kimchi 051-701-5199 ₩ www.busanhaps.com/food/hello-kimchi-mexican Taco El Puebla 051-747-6003 ₩ www.busanhaps.com/food/taco-al-puebla Taco Senora 051-744-4050 ₩ www.busanhaps.com/food/taco-senora

Thai

Mr. Pizza - 1577-0077 www.mrpizza.co.kr Pizza Etang - 1688-3651 www.pizzaetang.com

Family Restaurants Outback Steakhouse - 1577-0500 (10 locations) www.outback.co.kr T.G.I. Friday’s - 1588-2590 (4 locations) www.tgif.co.kr VIPS - 1577-0700 (7 locations) www.ivips.co.kr

Vegetarian

RECOMMENDED RESTAURANT

Vietnamese

SHARKY’S

Hello Thai 051-731-5033 ₩₩ Loving Hut 051-747-2979 ₩₩ www.lovinghut.kr Pho Kim 051-740-4868 ₩ www.busanhaps.com/food/pho-kim

Fast Food McDonalds - 1600-5252 (30 locations in Busan) www.mcdonalds.co.kr Lotteria - 1600-9999 www.lotteria.com Burger King- No delivery (7 locations in Busan) www.burgerking.co.kr Popeye’s Chicken - No delivery (10 locations in Busan) www.popeyes.co.kr KFC - No delivery (7 locations in Busan) www.kfckorea.com Quiznos - No delivery (4 locations in Busan) www.quiznos.co.kr Dunkin Donuts - No delivery (45 locations in Busan) www.dunkindonuts.co.kr Mister Donut - No delivery (5 locations in Busan) misterdonut.gsretail.com Baskin Robbins - No delivery (66 locations in Busan) www.baskinrobbins.co.kr

Though it doubles as a bar, Sharky’s features a great menu, complete with a variety of dishes from salads, to fajitas to steaks. Located on the second floor in the Pale de CZ building just off Haeundae Beach, it is the perfect place to take a break from the beach and enjoy a great, affordable meal with a couple of cocktails. Summertime take-away cocktail pitcher bags are also available. 010-4038-2907 ₩✔ www.busanhaps.com/food/ sharkys-bar-and-grill

Pizza Dominos - 1577-3082 www.dominos.co.kr Papa John’s - 1577-8080 www.pji.co.kr Pizza Hut - 1588-5588 www.pizzahut.co.kr 2011 june/july_BUSANHAPS 41

Hotel Guide Haeundae Haeundae The Westin Chosun Do it right and crash in the same room George W. Bush did. 82-51-749-7000 www.starwoodhotels.com

Paradise Hotel On the water, with a casino, excellent spa and a pool. 82-51-742 2121 www.paradisehotel.co.kr

Seacloud Hotel Luxury stay, with great restaurants. Short walk to the beach. 82-51-933-1000 www.seacloudhotel.com

Haeundae Centum Hotel Near Shinsegae and BEXCO. Good subway access. 82-51-720-9000 www.centumhotel.co.kr

Sunset Hotel 72 rooms with, according to the site, “individual design concepts.” 82-51-730-9900 www.sunsethotel.co.kr

Novotel Ambassador On the beach. Great ocean view, Murpii Nightclub. 8251-743-1234 www.novotelbusan.com

Business and Beach Hotel Located in central Haeundae, with easy access to the local historical sites. 82-51-742-3219 www.bnbhotel.co.kr

Other Areas Other Areas Lotte Hotel (Seomyeon) Lotte runs a tight ship and it shows in the generous customer service here. 82-51-810-1000 www.lottehotelbusan.com Toyoko Inn (Seomyeon) Across from Migliore, comfortable, clean and affordable. 82-51-442-1045 www.toyoko-inn.com

Crown Hotel (Seomyeon) Mid-range hotel decorated in Korean style, good for travellers. 82-51-635-1241 www.fnetravel.com/english/ pusanhotels/crown.html

Hotel Nong Shim (Oncheonjeong) Great area around the hotel, head north to PNU for original Busan nightlife. 82-51-550-2100 www.hotelnongshim.com

Homers Hotel (Gwangan)

One of the cheaper spots on the strip, but still at the beach. 82-51-740-0610 www.grandhotel.co.kr

Right on Gwangan beach amdist the myriad of cafes, bars and restaurants. 8251-750-8000 www.homershotel.com

Hotel Illua Dalmaji Hill

Aqua Palace (Gwangan)

Grand Hotel

Lovely hotel with stunning views from its perch on Dalmaji Hill. 82-51-744-1331 www.hotelillua.com

Hanwha Resort Beautiful views of Oryukdo, the bridge and close to the beach. 82-1588-2299 www.hanwharesort.co.kr

Busan Youth Hostel Arpina Opened in 2004, a cheap place to stay for the night. Culture center inside. 8251-731-9800 www.arpina.co.kr 42 BUSANHAPS_june/july 2011

Beautiful view of the Diamond Bridge, right in the middle of the beach. 82-51756-0202 www.aquapalace.co.kr

Commodore Hotel (Jung-gu) Beautifully designed traditional hotel. Close proximity to Busan Station. 82-51461-9703 www.commodore.co.kr

Busan Tourist Hotel (Jung-gu) Conveniently located next to the train station. Good

for a cheap night’s rest. 8251-241-4301 www.pusanhotel.co.kr

Toyoko Inn (Jung-gu) Affordably priced hotel, clean and 10 minutes away from the train station. 8251-442-1045 www.toyoko-inn.com

Phoenix Hotel (Jung-gu) Highly trained staff, close to Nampodong. Popular with Japanese tourists. 82-51245-8061 www.hotelphoenix.net Elysee Hotel (Jung-gu) Affordable hotel with good amenities. Close to Nampodong. 82-51-2414008 www.elyseemotel.com

Gukje Hotel (Busan Station) About 3 km away from the train station, close to Citizen’s Hall. 82-51-642-1330 www.hotelkukje.com

Toyoko Inn (Busan Station) The second location, this one is a minute away from the train station. 82-51-4421045 www.toyoko-inn.com

Paragon Hotel (Sasang-gu) Business comfort, with close proximity to Gimhae International Airport. 82-51328-2001 www.hotelparagon.com/

Indy House (Kyungsung University) Super cheap, dorm-style room right in the heart of Kyungsung. 82-70-86156442

Busan Central Hotel (Yeonsan-dong) Adjacent to Yeonsan rotary, located 10 minutes away from City Hall. 82-51- 8666225 www.centralhotel.co.kr

Bar Guide Kyungsungdae Almost Famous www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/almost-famous Blue Monkey www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/blue-monkey Cafe Radio www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/cafe-radio Club Fabric www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/club-fabric Dugout Bar www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/dugout Eva’s www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/eva’s Ghetto www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ghetto HQ Bar www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/hq-bar Kino Eye www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/kino-eye Long. T Bar www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/long-t-bar Monk’s Jazz Club www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/monks-jazz-club Ol’55 www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ol’55 Painted Chair Cafe www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/painted-chair-cafe The New Foxy www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/new-foxy Vinyl Underground www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/vinyl Zip Code www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/zip-code

Haeundae 247 Lounge www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/247-lounge Billie Jean www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/billie-jean Club Elune www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/club-elune Drunken Shrimp Bar www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/drunken-shrimp-bar Fuzzy Navel www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/fuzzy-navel Geckos www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/geckos-bar-and-grill Maktum www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/maktum Miami 88 www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/miami-88-no1 Murpii www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/murpii-bar Neo Starface Mipo www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/neo-starface-mipo Rock n’ Roll House www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/rock-n-roll-house Sharky’s www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/sharkys-bar

Starface www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/starface Suntory Japanese www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/suntory-japanese The Wolfhound Pub www.wolfhoundpub.com Thursday Party www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/thursday-party U2 Bar www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/u2-bar

Gwanang-li Beach Bikini www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/beach-bikini Beached Cafe and Sports Bar www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/beached-cafesports-bar Club 3f www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/club-3f Enoch Mansion www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/enoch-mansion Fuzzy Navel www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/fuzzy-navel-1 Holloway Road Party Pub www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/holloway-roadparty-pub Hollywood Star www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/hollywood-star Luna Bass www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/lunabass Thursday Party www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/thursday-party-0 WA Bar www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/wa-bar

PNU Crossroads www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/crossroads Interplay www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/interplay Monks www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/monks Red Bottle www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/red-bottle Soultrane www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/soultrane The Basement www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/basement

Seomyeon Champion Night Club www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/champion-nightclub Foxy www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/foxy-seomyeon

Fuzzy Navel www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/fuzzy-navel-0 Guri Bar www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/guri-bar Judie Nine Brau www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/judie-nine-brau Metal City www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/metal-city Rock n’ Roll Bar www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/rock-n-roll-bar The Old Record Bar www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/old-record-bar The Spot www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/thespot Thursday Party www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/thursday-party-1

Directory & Assistance Busan Global Center 1577-7716 Tourist Info in English, Japanese & Chinese 1330 Gimhae Airport Tourist Information Center – International 82-51-973-2800 Gimhae Airport Tourist Information Center – Domestic 82-51-973-4607 Busan Station Tourist Information Center 82-51-441-6565 International Ferry Terminal Tourist Information Center 82-51-465-3471

Radio (English eFM) FM 90.5

2011 june/july_BUSANHAPS 43

HLastWord

: N O P THAR

L E V A R T rp By Chris Tha

ravel. That’s why many of us are here, right? We’ve fallen in love with the idea. It certainly was the driving factor that originally brought me to these rocky shores… well, that and the $78 in my Bank of America checking account at the time. I came to Korea to savor Asia and see more of the world, and I must say that I’ve succeeded marvelously, though what began as a benign passion has now raged into a full-blown addiction. I’m hooked. I got the travel Jones real bad. It consumes me, coursing through my veins like hot whisky. I am compelled to throw wads of cash at airline tickets with every extended break that comes my way. And during the static periods—those times when I’m not traveling—there is but one thought reverberating through my big head: Where am I gonna go next? Why is this? Why do I want to see so much? Why do I need so badly to go somewhere else? Is it just the concentrated fun? The utter lack of responsibility? After all, who doesn’t like not having to go to work every day? Who doesn’t enjoy long meals every night and the thought of going to a brand new place the next morning? Traveling is a privilege, a luxury of the highest order that sometimes borders on the obscene. It’s often done in countries where the people are so destitute that, for most, it’s not even on the menu. I recall once floating down an emerald river on an inner tube while locals waded in the shallows, picking weeds for dinner. This is a gulf, I thought, and was grateful to be on the good side, though I couldn’t help feeling a sticky sense of shame take hold in my gut. I realized then and there that I was a very lucky, pampered ass. Like many expats in this part of the world, I often head down to Southeast Asia. It’s hot, cheap, and fantastically beautiful. I love the languid rhythms of the region. I love tromping through the jungle, swimming beneath waterfalls, buzzing through back road villages on 100cc motorbikes, and the bliss of an ice-cold beer after a day in the withering heat. Going there is always a thrill; life goes on at a natural pace in such places. There’s something about visiting these countries that feels genuine. I’m not the only one who feels this way, of course. Strap on a backpack and hit the circuit, and you will find many kindred travelers. Many of these folks are among the best that their respective countries have to offer—genuinely kind people who have ventured outside of their borders to connect with others. This doesn’t apply to everyone, however. Southeast Asia is a known haven for miscreants and scumbags. One visit to Phnom Phen or Pattaya is enough to drive this point home. You don’t have to look too far to see troggy old dudes with distended guts wandering hand in hand with scandalously young girls. It’s a pervert’s paradise. And there’s also another breed of traveler, that brand of vagabond with superior dread-

locks and a sheen of smugness, who, despite the trappings of broad-mindedness, never fails to chafe my sack: “Yeah, man. I went to Cambodia in ’92, before it was ‘cool.’ People walked down the streets with rocket launchers. You could buy land mines at the bar. It was real then. Now it’s overrun with yahoos. I wouldn’t even bother going. Cambodia sold out a long time ago. Did you see that guy with the melted face and two stumps for arms begging outside of the S-21 prison museum? I know for a fact that he has a business manager.” I was once hanging out with some backpackers on a river island in southern Laos. When I told them that I was just out for one month, one of them—a hulking Swiss girl—rolled her eyes and chimed in:

During the static periods—those times when I’m not traveling—there is but one thought reverberating through my big head: Where am I gonna go next?

44 BUSANHAPS_june/july 2011

“Ja. Ven you are just going for one month, you are a tourist; Ven you do it for nine you are a traveler” (points to herself). Let me tell you now that I fantasized throwing her chocolateeating, clock-making, neutral, Holocaust-gold hoarding ass into the Mekong for the next five torturous days. I have never understood this sense of one-upmanship — this need to prove superiority — that is more prevalent among the backpacker set than heat rash or scabies. Growing up, I remember often hearing about the “Ugly American,” but I have yet to see a lot of that guy in Southeast Asia. Instead, it’s more often the Europeans who act like jackasses. I’ve been castigated by Scandinavians for paying twenty cents too much for sunglasses; I’ve witnessed fiery Spaniards wage war over an apparent overcharge on a seven dollar guesthouse bill; once, in Vietnam, I saw an emaciated, chain-smoking Frenchman hurl his plate at the terrified waitress, shouting: “I have waited ONE HOUR for zis SHIT food!!!” But it’s all part of the gig, right? Traveling shouldn’t be easy all the time. Sometimes you’ll get ripped off. Sometimes you’ll get lost. Sometimes you’ll crap your pants on a fourteen hour bus ride over a hellishly rough road. Sometimes you’ll meet an incredibly rude couple from Belgium who blame you personally for the Second Gulf War, but when balanced against the good things—against the thrill, against the wonder, against the pure joy of exploring this amazing world—it’s very, very worth it. So throw on your pack, grab your passport and get out there, while we still have a world to see. Chris Tharp’s upcoming book, “Dispatches from the Peninsula: Six Years in South Korea,” will be available on Signal 8 Press later this year.

HAEUNDAE

area

46 BUSANHAPS_june/july 2011

SEOMYEON

area

GWANGAN-LI

area

PNU

area

KYUNGSUNG

area

2011 june/july_BUSANHAPS 47

BUSAN METRO MAP Humetro Call Center Lost & Found Center

Seomyeon Stn.