Busan Haps Iss 5 by Haps Magazine

busanhaps

swimming with the sharks in haeundae

the magazine for what’s happening in busan

Issue 5 February/March 2010

Free

busanhaps.com

Inside

Vegging out in Busan Bar Review: Minami Music: The Southbay Survival Korean ATEK Wants You! Terrace: A Three For All

Getting the Right Gear By Gino Brann

An American Girl on Korean Radio Busan e-FM’s Petra Jung

Features

Interview: Petra Jung Vegging Out in Busan The Southbay Gettin’ Your Gear On About the Music Busan ATEK Wants You Swimming with Sharks

Guides

Contents 2 12 18 20 22 29 30

Sonic Boom Schedule Sights to See Food Night Life

5 6 14 24

DVD Reviews Food: Loving Hut The Terrace Drink: Slice of Japan

8 13 16 27

Reviews

Regulars

February/March 2010

Short Stuff Events Survival Korean Subway Map Managing Editor: Bobby McGill Director of Marketing: Michael Schneider Copy Editor: Jeff Liebsch Contributing Writers: Roy Kim Gino Brann Roy Early Marié Joubert Lynsey Bolin Gus Swanda John Bocskay J. Lipsky Chris Tharp Barbara Waldern Jacob Worrel B.A. Coord Denise Marques Photography: Jim Batcho Joon Hyun Park Ji Hyun Hong Illustration: Moon Hae-ri Layout and Design: Bmc Ji Hyun Hong Public Relations: Roxy Kim Submissions: info@busanhaps.com For Advertising: mikey.busanhaps@gmail.com

Busan

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An American Girl on Korean Radio By Lynsey Bolin

As Busan’s e-Fm (90.5) goes into its second year, the station is looking for new ways to entertain and inform the expat community as well as a primarily Korean audience. Seattle native, Petra Jung, talks about working hard, playing by the radio rules and the life of a morning show host on Busan’s English airwaves. Thanks for taking the time to talk to us. Could you tell us a little about yourself? I was born in Seattle, Washington. I have lived in many cities due to my father’s position in the Army, so I can’t really say that I have a hometown. But, if you asked me to choose a city, the closest would be Ridgefield Park/Little Ferry in New Jersey. My mother wanted me to be a concert pianist, so up until my senior year in high school, I was a classically trained musician. However, in college, my unwillingness and lack of passion steered me away from performing arts and instead, steered me more towards western and ethnic history of music. I also minored in Korean, and my fluency helped me to land interpretation gigs in and after college. I use the language to my advantage to this day. Why did you decide to go into the radio broadcasting field? There’s an interesting story behind the decision. I was working for Samho-Nike Korea as a developer during the time. I was hoping to go into marketing and business, and Samho gave me that opportunity. While I was working there, my initial impression of being cold and assertive gradually peeled off, and my coworkers started to notice my true colors, the colors that my friends refer to as “queer” and “bizarre.” So, one day, a senior co-worker asked me to apply for a position at the radio station because he believed that my character would fit perfectly in the entertainment field. So, basically that’s why I applied. 2 busan haps

Did you have previous experience? Not at all. I never imagined myself working as a radio DJ, but I did picture myself becoming a singer! How did you get picked for this job? My producer was looking for a female who was a native English speaker, yet had some knowledge of the Korean language. I guess I fit that profile. There is an air of glamor with show business work. Is having a radio show what you expected it to be? Not at all. I must clarify that fame was not, and will never be, the reason that I chose this position. It’s a lot of work, and many times, one must expect that the audience will never see the effort that one puts into this field of work. They only get what they “hear.” Who is the primary demographic that listens to your program? Foreigners and non-foreigners that listen to the radio on their way to work. Also, many Koreans that are interested in learning English. It is ironic you are doing a radio show in English with a vast majority of listeners who use English as a second language. How does that shape your show’s format? I must cater to both groups, and I have to say, it’s difficult to do so. I receive complaints when I use too much Korean, but then again, knowing that so many Koreans are listening to the program, I must use the language. Many of our text messages are in Korean,

believe it or not, so it’s hard to translate ALL those text messages for our foreigners because some of the expressions just doesn’t convey what the sender was implying. Does Busan eFM have monitors who listen and approve of content? If so, what are some subjects you avoid on the show? Yes, we do. I must avoid stating opinions. I ALWAYS need to be neutral, and that itself is a challenge. Who would be your dream guest? Hmm…I don’t know. Maybe Whitney Houston, Lauryn Hill, or India Arie? They are my favorite singers. Do guests ever contact you to be on the show? Yes, they do. But most of the time, we ask our guests to be on the show. What was your best show? There is never a best show. I always make mistakes and keep telling myself that I need to improve. It’s a never-ending roller coaster. How about your worst? Maybe my first week? I was very nervous. Do guests get nervous before being on your show? If so, how do you calm their nerves? Yes, they do… all the time. I just try being silly with them, you know, start cracking jokes here and there. What kind of guests do you like to have on your show? Someone that can take a joke. You can’t be too serious. I’m far from being serious —only when it’s necessary. What percentage of your show is scripted? It’s different every single day. Maybe about 65 percent? Believe it or not, there are many times when I just stop looking at the script. What are people’s reactions when you tell them that you

are a radio DJ? I actually haven’t told too many people about my job. Many people know me from visiting the web site and sometimes by my voice. My friends seem to be supportive of my career, but thankfully, they don’t let it get to my head. What is your future objective with this job? Where do you see yourself in 5 years? I haven’t thought about it much. I’m just trying to get through one day at a time since each and every day is a challenge to me. Currently, there’s still a lot of improvements that need to be made, but eventually, I’d like to reach out to as many foreigners as possible. How much time do you spend, on average, preparing for your show? Would it be easier if this show was purely for English listeners? About 3-4 hours a day. There are a few minor areas that would be changed, but the difference wouldn’t be significant. On your web site, do you read all of the posts? Are you allowed to reply? Yes, I try to, at least. There might be one or two that I may have missed, but I try to read the posts almost every day. Yes, I am allowed. We save a lot of the messages to be replied back to on air. What is the difference with your program compared to the other ones on your station? We are an informative program. In other words, we try to provide news, tips, living guides, concerts, musicals and performances being held in Busan to our listeners. Who decides what material will be on the program? Overall, the producer decides what will be on the program and what won’t. I do have some say in the decisions that she makes, but she pretty much confirms everything. What would you like to tell the listeners? I’d simply like to say thank you to all of our listeners out there. The only reason why we’re so motivated to continuously find areas of improvement and to work harder is because we know we have at least one listener out there supporting our show and that one listener is all we need. You can hear Petra in the mornings on 90.5 Busan eFM from 7 to 9. busan haps 3

Short

Stuff

Busan ramping up for medical tourism

Busan is looking to attract tourists looking to be more attractive through cosmetic surgery —while shelling out big money in the coming year to make it happen. The government intends to designate advanced medical institutes around Busan and support these facilities in the hope of assisting more people in entering the medical field while at the same time improving current services. The city will additionally launch an overseas ad campaign to push it as medical tourism hub. They recently announced a medical tourism website (www. bsmeditour.go.kr.) which is in Korean, English, Japanese, Chinese and also Russian. Construction of a “Medical Street” will break ground this year and is slated for completion in 2011. You can drop in for a visit to their headquarters at the Daedong Building in Geumjeong District, at Jangjeon-dong near PNU.

Air Busan Opens New Flight routes to Fukuoka and Osaka

Budget airline Air Busan, an affiliate of Asiana Air, will start flying between Busan and Fukuoka in March, and to Osaka, Japan’s second-largest city, in April. It takes about 50 minutes by air to Fukuoka and fares will cost between 150,000 to 170,000 won. Currently, most people take the 3-hour jet ferry for around 200,000 which includes accommodations.

Wild Women’s Performing Arts Festival for gender equality in Seoul

The 3rd Wild Women’s Performing Arts Festival (WWPAF) will take place in Seoul Feb. 27th. Through performances in Korean and English from female poets, musicians, storytellers and dancers, the event addresses the issue of global gender equality. The Festival is being held in conjunction with International Women’s Day on March 8th, a world-wide event held annually to promote gender issues. The bi-annual WWPAF fund raising event supports the Korean Women’s Association United (KWAU), an umbrella organization uniting over forty member organizations, including anti sex-trafficking groups, the Korean Women’s Hotline, and agencies for disabled women. There will be performances from Orgeltanz and Dringe Augh (from Korea’s indie label, Electric Muse) Bigbabydriver, Oriental Lucy, and various spoken word artists and dancers. The event is at Mong Hwan, near Sinchon station from 8 p.m. Visit: wwpaf.wordpress.com 4 busan haps

2010 baseball season kicks off in March with the Lotte Giants looking strong heading into spring training. The Lotte Giants are in Saipan now for spring training and look to have another solid roster this year under the helm of American manager, Jerry Royster. The big offseason news for the giants was the resigning of both Korean slugger, Lee Dae-ho, and Mexican power hitter, Karim Garcia. Lee, hit .293 with 100 RBIs and 28 homers last year while playing in all 133 games. He ranked fourth in the league in home runs and tied for third in RBI’s. Both Lee and Garcia being re-signed was not without controversy as Lotte ownership cut both players salaries following big contributions to the perennial cellar-dwelling Giants making the playoffs two years straight. This has angered many Korean Lotte fans. The Giant’s also signed American pitcher Ryan Sadowski —the second of Korean baseball’s limit of two foreigners per team. Sadowski pitched for the Gators in Florida then went on to play in the San Francisco Giant’s organization.

KT Sonic Boom Final Home Games

2/21 vs. Mobis Phoebus 2/26 vs. Daegu Orions 3/1 vs ET Land Elephants 3/7 vs. KT&G Kites The Sonic Boom is currently in 3rd place and stand an excellent chance at getting into the playoffs this year. The English page of the team’s website is paltry, so keep your ears open for the playoff schedule. The Joong-Ang Daily and The Korea Times are your best bet for news on the team. Sonic Boom center, American, Jasper Johnson, has been hot all year. Johnson has either led or been in the top-5 for scoring since the season began back in October. He is currently averaging 19.9 points a game. ‘A league leader with only 19 points,’ you say? Well, unlike the NBA, they actually pass the ball a lot over here. -Bmc busan haps 5

Busan Sights

Busan Aquarium

Worth a Good Look

Beomeo Temple

One of Korea’s “Great 5 Temples,” Beomeo is an incredibly serene temple complex. Founded in 678, the temple offers a unique view into the life of Korea’s Buddhist Monks, and Korea’s unique interpretation of Buddhism. Take Subway Line 1 to Beomeosa station. Head out exit 5. From there you can hop in a taxi or take the city bus up the mountain. Beomeo Temple is open all year.

Yonggung Temple Located right on the coast near Haeundae, Yonggung Temple offers stunning views of the sea as well as a dozens of statues and Buddhist artwork. Visit the three-story pagoda that is home to the four lions. The lions symbolize sadness, anger, joy, and happiness. After just a short time at Yonggung you will forget the former two and fully embrace the two latter.

Busan Tower/Nampo Dong Market Busan Tower offers a view on high of the port area. Nearby is the massive Nampo Dong Market where you can find just about anything. The area is recently polished up and has a great shopping district and a gazillion restaurants to check out. To get there, take Subway Line 1 to Nampo Dong station. It is a great place to get lost, so I will leave the directions at that. Enjoy.

Geumjeong Mountain Fortress An ancient wall and guard towers lining the ridge of the Dongnae Area, Geumjeong Mountain Fortress offer not only a view into the past but also a great view of Busan. To get there take Subway Line 1 to Myeongnyun-dong station. From there head west. If you aren’t up for a hike to the top then you can hitch a ride on the bright red and yellow cable car and glide right on up to the ridge in comfort. 6 busan haps

The largest aquarium in Korea and one of the most highly regarded in all of Asia, Busan Aquarium is a must see. Located literally on (and under) Haeundae Beach it is a great place to round out a day on the coast. You can check out shark feeding, penguins, and the bizarre looking Eagle Ray. To get there take Subway Line 2 to Haeundae station and hoof it towards the coast.

Jagalchi Fish Market Great place to pick up seafood to cook at home or to just kick back and have it cooked for you. Home to the largest seafood market in Korea, Jagalchi is located just across the street from Nampo-Dong market, so make it your last stop when you visit the area. Wouldn’t want to be walking around smelling like fish. (Busan Haps wishes in no way to offend people who find the smell of rotting fish appealing).

Nurimaru/ Dong Baek Island On the south-west end of Haeundae Beach you can take in some incredible views of the full breadth of Haeundae and Gwangan. There is an elaborately done pathway that leads you around the area, an old lighthouse and densely wooded areas to pretend you are lost in. Also look for the stone inscription of the Silla Dynasty scholar, “Haeun” (which means “sea” and “clouds) who visited there centuries ago. Historic Graffiti. Cool stuff.

Taejongdae Natural Park Located on the island of Yeongdo-gu, Taejongdae is an incredibly scenic park with great views from high cliffs facing the sea. There is an evergreen forest to wander around in and several facilities for tourists such as an observatory, an amusement park with a full on Ferris wheel and a cruise ship terminal. And there is the funky abstract art to boot. To get there just take bus 88 or 101 from Busan Train Station.

Busan Museum of Modern Art A sprawling 3-story 21,000 square meter building housing everything from traditional to modern art, the BMOMA is one of Busan’s prized jewels housing an enormous collection. And it is all available to the public for a mere 700 KRW. That is no misprint. To get there take Subway Line 2 to the Museum of Modern Art Station. They are open Seven days a week. 051-744-2602

Beomeo Temple

Jagalchi Market Nurimaru

Busan Tower

Busan Aquarium

For more sights check www.busanhaps.com

Yonggung Temple

DVDReviews I

Mother (2009)

t wasn’t until my second viewing of Bong Joon-Ho’s “Memories of Murder” (2003) that I realized it was a masterpiece. And with this in mind, I decided to give “Mother” another chance after writing it off a few months ago. While some of my initial criticisms remain valid, I do think I was a bit harsh – its only real weakness is a tepid second act. One of the film’s most captivating aspects is the mother-son interaction, and while Kim Hye-Ja has some great solo scenes (her acting throughout is phenomenal), there’s nonetheless a sudden void when Do-Joon (Won Bin) is sent off to jail for murdering a high school student. At this point, “Mother” becomes very police-proceduralish, relying too much on flashbacks to unveil new clues surrounding the case. But beyond the brief lull midway through, the movie really is the work of a master filmmaker. Bookended by two glorious shots, the cinematography alone makes it worth seeing (and yes, I said the exact opposite here). The lush panorama of Kim dancing in a field at the beginning announces the film’s spotless aesthetic, and the last sequence closes it on an equally high note. Perhaps what I misjudged most the first time around was the ending. The story arch reaches a dark, gut-wrenching final turning point, one that brilliantly plays into the themes already built upon. So, just to clear things up, the movie’s merits heavily outweigh its shortcomings. “Mother” boasts a terrific cast, beautiful camera work, and an interesting (though sometimes faltering) plot progression. ~Jacob Worrel

The Chaser (2008)

f the debut film from director Na Hong Jin is any indication of his work to come, Korean cinema has launched a real new talent. I randomly caught it on OCN a few months ago, and recently checked out the DVD for a second viewing. The film’s main character is Eom Jung Ho, a former police officer who now works as a pimp in and around Seoul. Lately, many of his girls have gone missing, and he suspects foul play. When he realizes that one of his last remaining girls, Mi Jin, has just been sent out to the customer to last see the missing girls, he smells trouble, and frantically sets out to search for her. Lacking an actual address, he heads for the neighborhood where she was sent, and accidently hits another car. In this car is another man, Je Young-min. Jung Ho notices a splotch of blood on the man’s shirt, and senses that this guy is his suspect. After a fight, the police arrive and they are both taken in. This is where things get really interesting: Young-min confesses to all of the killings, but due to an actual lack of evidence, he must be released within twelve hours. Young-min says that Mi-jin may still be alive, and it is then that Jung Ho becomes The Chaser, chasing time in order so save this girl. “The Chaser” is a starkly-shot thriller. Stylistically it is both gritty and slick, with never a flat moment. The performances are as taut as the plot, and the ending delivers both blood and turns that will get your heart going. An impressive work from this first-time director. ~Chris Tharp

Directed by Bong Joon-jo Screenplay by Bong Joon-jo Drama

Directed by Na Hong-jin Screenplay by Na Hong-jin Thriller

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Events: Feb/Mar

Concert for Haiti: Mar. 19th

2/20 Wordz Only 2: An open mic event for... you guessed it, words only. This regular get together has become popular so get together there early. At Cafe Radio Kyungsung at 7:30 p.m. “Wordz Only” on Facebook. 2/25 Music -De!nial: A far out funky Japanese band coming to town at The Basement 7:30 p.m. 2/25 Lim Dong-hyek Piano Recital: The only concert pianist in Korea that is a total teenage heartthrob. Screaming teens at a recital? Probably. 7:30 p.m. at the Busan Cultural Center. 2/26 Fire Festival & Snow Hiking: A hike up Mt. Halla in Jeju led by the eminent adventure leader, Charles Jeong. For more info search “Lovable Busan” on Facebook. 2/28 Berlin Kammerphilharmonie Orchestra: Get cultured with some classical music at the Busan Cultural Center 7:30 p.m. 3/5 Busan Philharmonic Orchestra Spring Concert: Impress your friends by telling them you went to the symphony. If you actually go, that is. At the Busan Cultural Center 7:30 p.m. The orchestra will whip out some Gustav Mahler on the 19th as well, same venue, 7:30 p.m. 3/12-13 Busan Night Live: Expat-produced comedy show. Because life is funny and some of us are actually funny, too. 2-day run at Club Fabric in Kyungsung. 10:30 p.m. 3/13 International Kite Flying Contest: YES! At Dadaepo Beach on the Nakdong River. While you are there avoid walking any short piers. Info: 051-888-347 Through Mar. 28th Noh Sun-tag’s Photography Exhibition: Another must see at the GoEun Museum of Photography in Haeundae. Noh truly captures life in both Koreas during times good and bad. For More Events Visit www.busanhaps.com

The incredible tragedy in Haiti has gripped the world from the moment it took place. Some of us feel helpless being so far away, seemingly unable to lend a hand during this dire time of need. On March 19th at Vinyl in Kyungsung, there will be a night of music by nearly all of Busan’s top acts in an effort to raise money for the troubled nation that so greatly deserves our attention. The event was postponed until the 19th due to many musicians being on holiday abroad. The show will run from early evening until the wee hours. Attendees are asked to donate 10,000KRW at the door, though more is certainly appreciated.

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Survival

Korean

With Professor Gus

hopping in Korea is like shopping anywhere else in the world. If you’re a man it usually sucks, and if you’re a woman it usually sucks for your boyfriend. In Korean culture sales staff are attentive, but instead of incessantly asking if you need any help, they usually stare, smile and coalesce with other sales people who stare and smile. However, if sales have been particularly low that month, a sales person may gather their courage to say one of the following: Can I help you? 도와 드릴까요? Doh Wah duh lil kai yo? What are looking for? 무엇을 찾고 계세요? Moo-uh-sul chaht go gye say yo In my case they may say: I am sorry sir, we don’t have clothes that fit a person of your…umbrage. 우리는 빅 사이즈 옷이 없습니다. Oo-ri nun big size oh-shee op-soy yo. You can answer by saying: No, thanks. I am just looking 그냥 보는 거예요. Guhn yang boh-nun goy-yay-yo Or... Yes, I am looking for… • a shirt 셔츠 shirchuh • dress shoes 구두 goo-doo • tennis shoes 운동화 oon-dong-hwa • pants 바지 bah-jee • a dress 드레스 dressuh • a bathing suit 수영복 sue young boak • a suit 양복 Yang boak • a bag 가방 gah bahng • back pack 책가방 check gah bahng Or, you could say: If you are me: Do I look like I need help? 제가 도움이 필요한 사람으로 보입니까? Jay-gah peel-yo-hahn sarahm boh-nee-kah? If you are DeNiro: Are you talking to me…? 저에게 얘기를 하고 있습니까? Jaw-ay-gay yay-gee-lil ha-goee-soy-yo After you find what you want, you may want to say: •Do you have a larger size? 더 큰 사이즈 있습니까? Daw kun sigh-juh ee-sum-nee-dah •Do you have this in a smaller size? (The answer will be yes 99% of the time) 이것으로 더 작은 사이즈가 있습니까? Ee-go-suh-roh daw jah-geun sigh-juh-gah ee-soy-yo •Do you have it in a different color? 이것으로 다른 색깔 있습니까 ? Ee-go-suh-roh dah-reun seck-cal ee-sum-nee-kah •Is this on sale? 이거 세일합니까? Ee-gaw sale hahmnee-kah •How much is it? 얼마입니까? Uhl-mah eem-nee-kah

• • • • • • • •

a book 책 check underwear 속옷 soak oat a bra 브레지어 buh-ray-jee-ah socks 양말 Yang mahl a hat 모자 Moe Jah a souvenir 기념품 gee-nyum-pooma tie neck tie 넥타이 a birthday card 생일카드 seng-ill cah-duh a gift for a friend 친구선물 chin-goo sun-mool

•I need two, please. 두개 주세요. Doo-gay chew-say-yo •This bra is too small. 이 브레지어가 너무 작습니다. Ee- buh-ray-jee-ah noh-moo jahk-sum-nee-dah In the big department stores and supermarkets prices are usually fixed, but in the market places and smaller shops don’t be afraid to haggle. In such cases you may use the following: •That’s too expensive! 너무 비쌉니다. Noh-moo beesah-yo •Can’t you come down a little? 좀 깍아 줄 수 있습니까? Choam cock-ah chewl soo ee-soy-yo •Can you give me the handsome (beautiful) face discount? (for me, that usually gets a laugh but never a discount) 잘 생긴 사람은 깍아 줄 수 있나요? Jahl seng-geen ashram cock-ah chewl-soo ee-nah-yo? Now, go try it out at your local shop! ~Gus busan haps 11

Vegging in Busan By Roy Early

Illustration by Moon Hae-ri

According to an article in the Herald last year, the Korean Vegetarian Union has a membership of 6,700 people. Who would guess Korea has that many non-meat eaters or that they actually would form a club? This country loves meat —as does 99.99% of the world’s people that visit here. So, what’s a vegetarian to do?

o you know any vegetarian or vegan Koreans? This country loves meat -- as do most of the expats that come here. I have only personally met three or four other foreigners in Busan who announced they were meat-free. With Korean restaurateurs, friends or coworkers the mere mention of the word ‘vegetarian’ usually garners a nice look of confusion from Koreans. Often, Koreans do not know the word ‘vegetarian,’ so you can just say “gogi-obsoyo” (no meat) or try using the native tongue “chae sheek joo wee im nee da” and wait for the inevitable response heard round the world -- “Why are you a vegetarian?” In my experiences here, I have found that the most understandable and plain spoken answer is that “I do not want to eat meat.” Occasionally, someone with good conversational English and I will have a nice discussion, but for the most part I try to keep it simple. Factory farming, pollution, killing, compassion, the idea of animals as friends, etc… can all be heavy topics to discuss during a lunch hour. Besides, I doubt anyone ever truly wants to know why I passed on the fish. They just think I look funny with my tray of rice, homemade hot sauce, and my plate of lettuce—especially since I am 6’2. 12 busan haps

For those of you looking for meatless treats here, I want to share some tips on navigating the mean streets of Dynamic Busan while eating no animals. Buy a steamer: Unless you are fine with a steady diet of bibimbap and cold bibimguksu, a steamer is a vegetarian’s best friend. It takes up a bit of space, but you can cook up nearly a week’s worth of rice to keep in the fridge. Each day after work enjoy a quick daily stroll through your closest market and the rest of your meals will be ready in a jiffy. Allow your skin to thicken: Your coworkers are going to find the fact of you not eating meat a lot stranger than anyone else. In fact, they might have a harder time understanding the concept than you do counting to three in Korean. Get used to repeating yourself every time you go out with coworkers. If you work at a public school, it will happen every time there is a ‘very healthy’ soup served at lunch. Coincidently, it may seem like this special soup is served everyday for the first month of a new job, but your mind just might be playing tricks on you. Head to Sasang Station: All within less than a five

minute walk from each other, are three wonderful shops full of vegetable love. Each one is a little different, but they all carry Indian, Pakistani, and Thai cooking supplies. Buy dried lentils, chickpeas, basmati and jasmine rice, cumin, and loads of other spices and curry mixes. They also sell fresh cilantro/coriander, frozen paratha, and pita bread. Basically, you can spend eighty thousand won and be set for months. The basmati rice is pricey though, but it is a nice change from the typical rice you normally pick up in the chain stores. It is alright to be rude: People are going to try and get you to eat all kinds of things. In the words of Nancy Reagan, “Just say no.” Koreans can be quite assertive about food - you be that way, too. Besides, it is not really being rude, just direct and being vegetarian takes commitment. Employ the same will you use when requesting vacation days or wanting to know why you didn’t get paid at work. Tofu and noodles: Chances are that there is a place near your apartment to buy both of these items freshly made and on the cheap. For two thousand won or less you can have three days worth of meals.

I look funny with my tray of rice, homemade hot sauce and my plate of lettuce —especially since I am 6’2 Love that onion salad: Instead of skipping dinner with friends and coworkers when they go to samgyupsal or galbi restaurants, join them. Every restaurant has its own side dishes. Some, though not many, are straight up vegetables. Raw onions may be an acquired taste, but are wonderful when acquired (Personally, I have grown quite fond of rice with sesame oil and garlic). The social dining scene stands as one of the great things about living here, so be sure and indulge even if it is only in rice, raw garlic slices, soju and Cass. Scour the shops: Whenever you swing through a Lotte Department Store or any other store that sells canned and dried goods, take a quick look. Stores are always changing their inventory in the imported foods section. You never know when that can of beans, spice mix, pasta sauce, or something else you might like will be there. One week you can find vegetarian refried beans and the next week nothing, so take the two minutes and do some ‘window shopping.’ Visit a vegetarian restaurant: Busan has at least four vegan restaurants. Two are in Seomyeon, one in the PNU area, and one in the Kyungsung area. Check the Busan Haps home page for more information.

Loving the Loving Hut

n that wonderful walk between The Basement and Crossroads it sits. You have seen it many times when in PNU. Mostly you notice that sometimes there are many people inside eating and sometimes not a soul. What brings people in there and keeps them away? Well, it is that wonderful, 100% vegan food of course! Yes, there is vegan food right here in Busan. (Actually, there are at least four vegan restaurants here in your home away from home). One can not go wrong with a menu choice at the Loving Hut. However, should you visit there alone for your first time, consider the veggie cutlet or the bean paste stew. Both are served with an array of side dishes. Meaty versions of both of these dishes are very popular in Korea, but to actually taste either of them made of way of one hundred percent vegetables is a real treat. The best option at the Loving Hut is their set meal, which must be ordered for at least two people. At 8,000KRW, it is the most expensive item on the menu and the best value all at the same time. The set menu comes with a bowl of soup, rice, some dishes made with minimal use of ‘fake meats’, and loads of side dishes. The side dishes allow nonmeat eaters to partake in Korean cuisine. For many vegetarians and vegans the opportunities to eat kimchi and other side dishes minus the fish sauce are few and far between. Side dishes vary from visit to visit, but are always fresh and made with seasonal vegetables. This is Korea, so if you really dig a particular side, just ask for more. (Also, the Loving Hut does not recycle food—how groovy). Whether you eat animals, vegetables, or both, give the Loving Hut a try. The service is great, the food is fresh, and the location is just right. If you are vegetarian then this could be your new favorite place to dine in PNU and maybe even in Busan. busan haps 13

Food Haeundae

Blowfish - A Bar, a restaurant. Same owner as The Basement. A short cab ride from Jangsan Subway station to Seong Jeong Beach and you’re there. Good Burgers! And Matt likes it when you rub his noggin.

Sunset Lounge - Great BBQ on the roof, near the beach. Try the Ranch Chicken Tacos. Now with Delivery. www.busanhaps.com/sunset 051742-2925 Big Tuna - On the road that borders the backside of Jae-Rae outdoor market in Jangsan. Go for the raw or cooked tuna, a little pricey but excellent grub.

Gwangan-li

Saigon “Pho”- Vietnamese restaurant. Across the street from the Starbucks just off the beach. Big yellow sign. It is on the same street as Hollywood Star. Guess Who? Family Restaurant Coming from the Gwangan Subway station, make a right at the beach road. They have just about everything on their buffet and the prices are very reasonable. Cusco - Dig on some spit fired chicken. The rice-stuffed chicken is popular. 51-624-0990

PNU

Fish & Pork - BBQ Shell fish is their specialty. Cheap. Can sit outside. There are a number of good restaurants nearby. Staff is made up mostly of PNU students some usually they speak English. Won Cho - Ultra cool place with all kinds of “real Korea” feeling. There are a variety of traditional Korean dishes from bulgogi (marinated meat) to chicken feet. Located a block upstream on the same one way street as The Basement. Kebabistan - Listing this Turkish restaurant is probably a waste of ink. Everyone has been there. If not, head out gate 1 PNU Subway Station towards PNU. On the left past the main road. Pho - At same spot as Kebabistan is a great little Vietnamese restaurant. 2nd floor with a great view of the PNU student throng. Real Vietnamese coffee. Wazwan - Serious Indian food ) cooked by top chefs from a family

Sushi Miga - Sushi boat style, high end raw. Good stuff and the interior is awesome. Across from the beach, Harbor Town. 051-746-0196 Taco Senora - A little tough to find. Take the street next to SFUNZ (Haeundae Station) towards the beach. In a little alley on the left near Save Zone. 051-744-4050 An-Ga - Word has it that they have the best meat in Busan. Check it out for yourself. Jung Dong subway station towards the overpass. Little pricey but worth it. 051-742-7852 Jagalchi Eel - BBQ eel in a spicy sauce. Goes great with soju. Very popular with Korean celebrities, especially during, Near Paradise Hotel. PIFF. 051-742-5387 Maris Buffet - Gigormous buffet with everything. A ton of salads and desserts. 30-40,000 KRW. Eat to your heart’s content. Jangsan Station across from Primus. Somunnan Beef Rib - If you have a preference for the gender of the beef on your plate, they have 40 years experience serving only female cows. Go figure. Walk the beach road east, a few blocks before you get to the RR tracks. 051-746-0003 Starface -Bar/Restaurant. Mexican, Italian and British cuisine. Good food fo’ sho. And Charles is there if you need help finishing your meal. 14 Busan Haps

Four Season Raw Fish - Be prepared to drop some fairly decent coin, but the food is great. Real Korean style. Set meals run from 3050,000. Don’t be a wimp, try the live octopus --tell your grand kids. At the Millak Raw Fish Center 2F. Korean Natural Food Restaurant Vegetarian food. If you don’t like meat, try a little Korean and say, “Gogi-no” and cross your arms in front of your chest. 051-751-5534

that has migrated around the world to cook fantastic Indian food. No alcohol is served but you are more than welcome to bring your own jug. A must eat. 051-517-1947. Notice that the tel # is 1947? Taco’s Family - Nice hole in the wall with great burritos. But, don’t be surprised if there is Clam Chowder on special that day or even lasagna. It is 1/4 block just south of The Crossroads. 010-5688-6303

Check busanhaps.com for more restaurant listings with maps and more typos than you can shake a chopstick at.

Kyungsung

Seomyeon

Bae Dae Po - Korean BBQ seafood and meat. About 75 meters from “Buy the Way” towards Mega-mart.

Zooza - This place has got a little bit of everything. From salmon to steak to a great Cajun salad, along with a wide selection of beers. See ad on page 31

Eu Dae Di - BBQ pork. Across from Thursday Party. Both here and Bae Dae Po have signs written in Korean. So start learning.

Florians’s - Across the street from TGI Fridays. All you can eat Buffet Have a little bit of everything. 18,000 KRW

Pasta Factory - On the same road as Dunkin Donuts. Try the creamy tomato basil and chicken. Good wines. HQ Bar - Not an everyday eatery, but check busanhaps.com for when they serve food and enjoy stellar home cooking like Tom’s roast beef. Chen Chen - Excellent Chinese food like back home. Good prices and a wide variety of styles. 010-625-8848 Bey Kebap House - Great Turkish food from the folks that wheel that cart around the Kyungsung area. The restaurant is right across from the Family Mart.

Loving Hut - Vegetarian. Take Seomyeon Exit 2, left across from Outback. Try the “Noble Spaghetti” or Spicy noodles. Buffalo - Got a strange logo with a Buffalo strangling a chicken. No Buffalo on the menu, just great chicken. If you are facing Lotte Dept. Store, take the street on the left side. It’s adjacent to the back edge of Lotte. 051-805-3512 Judie Nine Brau - A brewery with good bar food. Seomyeon station, Exit 2, walk three blocks, make a left, across from the Taehwa pharmacy. 051-667-7979 O’Brien’s Gaya - Bar with a great selection of food. Subway Gaya station, Exit 2. 051894-6541

The Terrace:

The Pho, The Pan, The Cafe

By Denise Marques

The Nampo-dong area is going through a renaissance of sorts as it rebuilds and reshapes the long popular shopping area. In the process, some great eateries are popping up. One is The Terrace, which offers a little bit of everything for the finicky palette.

hether you feel the urge to pose next to a brightly lit reindeer or embrace a ‘hug me’ statue, Nampo-Dong is certainly putting forth efforts to draw crowds to the area. The opening of the new Lotte Department store has marked a new beginning for Busan’s original “downtown.” From Guess to The North Face, to the little ajuma-run shops, this shopping area has something for everyone. Of course, all of that shopping can wear the most ardent spender down. You’ve gotta refuel. Whether its a cup of joe, a light snack, or a full-on meal, when you want it you’ve got to have it, but at that point you’ve had enough walking around. Wouldn’t it be nice to satiate yourself all in one place? Why not try The Terrace? Making its debut last November, this sprawling eatery/cafe has three unique spots set neatly inside: The Pho,” “The Pan” and “The Cafe.” With a blend of fusion food and a European like atmosphere, it succeeds in creating a unique dining 16 busan haps

experience. The trendy interior design makes for an intimate date or a fun meal with friends. However, the gem of this restaurant lies in the outdoor dining patio. With heat lamps surrounding the tables, even on chilly nights you can enjoy your meal outdoors while watching the passersby. As the design accentuates the aesthetics, the food aims to please the pallete. The Pho, specializing in Vietnamese cuisine, offers a moderate sized menu with highlights such as fresh spring rolls and Vietnamese coffee. This restaurant is definitely vegetarian friendly as the chefs will prepare some dishes without meat at your request. However, the options are limited. The Pan, on the other hand, offers an impressive menu with a wide array of options for the meat-eater, the veggie lover, and for those in between. If you are looking for a light meal, there are a few salads and a substantial appetizer menu. For those looking for a hearty meal, there are many pasta, rice, and pizza dishes as well. The Potato Pizza, a cheese pizza topped with de-

liciously seasoned mashed potatoes, certainly wins my vote for best pizza. Though not quite as flavorful, second place goes to the Gorgonzola Pizza. As far as pasta, the Spaghetti with Seafood Gratin Pasta seems to be a favorite among diners. This dish is served in a steaming oversized bowl and is covered with baked pizza dough. Upon serving the dish, the server cuts the soft warm dough and allows it to mix into steaming pasta below. For those craving red meat, there is a pricey sirloin steak option. However, if you are in the mood to pay nearly 40,000 won, it may be a better idea to go for the Sirloin Steak set menu. All of the set menus include bread, salad, a main course, dessert, and coffee. If you’d like the benefit of an all inclusive meal but rather not break the bank, the cheapest set costs 18,000 and features a pasta dish as the main course. Other features include a substantial variety of alcohol and a small dessert menu including Crème Brulee —a rarity in Busan. (Be advised that this is not an option for the set menu.) Perhaps you are thinking that this

restaurant sounds like a dream, but keep in mind that there are some kinks that have yet to be worked out. First, The Terrace is not so much of a fusion restaurant but more like three separate restaurants; You can only order from one menu. Second, perhaps they should have fused some of the Korean ‘table bell’ culture into their business, as it can be very difficult and overall annoying to track down your server. This, of course, is mainly a consideration for those who choose to sit outside. Overall, in just a few short months, this restaurants’ baby steps have proven to be impressive. Hours: Main Menu 12:00-9:30 daily. Appetizers: 8:00-9:30 pm. Drinks served all day. Directions: From the Nampo-Dong subway station, Exit 7 turn left and walk down Gwangbok-Dong walking street. After 5 minutes you will see Holly’s Coffee on your right. Shortly after, turn right at the fork and walk for about 1 minute. The Terrace will be across the street on your left. busan haps 17

The Southbay:

Pure Punkadelic W

hat first comes to mind when you think of Punk? Loud, stripped down, high energy songs, a ‘f%$* you’ attitude, high emotion and raw energy? Maybe the word conjures images of tattoos, leather, insane hair, studded belts, and giant safety pins? Well, Busan’s own, ‘The Southbay’, spew these standard qualifications of punk and take it to another level. The Southbay isn’t simply knocking out two-minute songs and abusing power chords. Sure, you’re gonna hear hints of the Ramones, the Sex Pistols, and Rancid, but their sound is more multifaceted. The Oi and street punk of NOFX, Cocksparrer, and early Dropkick Murphy’s shape a style that is pure Southbay. Along with the traditional sounds, ska and reggae undertones come out, eliciting comparisons to names like Operation Ivy and the Clash with a touch of Dick Dale for good measure. And if that weren’t enough, they also throw in the early rock and roll guitar grooves of Chuck Berry and Bo Diddley, and their version of Johnny B. Goode brought down the house at the Battle of the Bands last year. According to The Southbay guitarist and vocalist Choi Byung-Hyuk, the band doesn’t want fans to put them in any particular box. “We’re genre-less. We’re the only punk band in Korea that incorporates ska and multiple other genres into the music. We’re blending a lot into our sound.” They’re breaking other rules as well, applying solos and a few instrumental tunes into their mix, usually unheard of in the fast-paced world of punk. Guitars are front and center with Byung-Hyuk sharing the lead with fellow guitarist, Hyun Mino. While shredding away, they frequently duel in unison, blending together into a hard-core, yet melodious rhythm. Mino and Byung-Hyuk perform the majority of the vocals, but everyone comes into the mix for the creative process. According to Byung-Hyuk, everyone takes part in putting the tunes together. “The songwriter comes in with about 80% of the individual song and we each help fill in with some of the instrumental and back-up parts.” The guys 18 busan haps

By J.Lipsky

have all been playing for 10 years or more and collectively as The Southbay going on five years. And when the four of them are together on stage, as Mino proudly announces: “We play dirty!” So why the name The Southbay? Sure, Busan is in the southern part of Korea, but “bay” isn’t referring to water. “Look up ‘bay’ in the Oxford English Dictionary and it also means howling or barking dogs,” explains Mino. These guys are tight knit -- so much so that the drummer, Ham Jinu, doubles as a tattoo artist and half the band, including himself, sport his ink. The punk scene is steadily growing in Busan, as venues such as Monk and Interplay in PNU or Ol’ 55 in Kyungsung are filling up, but Byung-hyuk feels that the expats are largely missing out. “Westerners in Busan are looking for good shows, but they don’t know where to find punk.” He then added unabashedly: “They need to come to our shows because they are the most fun.” Punk was difficult to find for kids growing up in Korea. The guys in The Southbay are all in their late 20’s and early 30’s now, and when they were teenagers, the only hard stuff hitting this country was metal, due to the global popularity of Metallica and Guns ‘N Roses. Punk hit the peninsula in the mid to late 90’s, and by the early part of the new millennium, unscripted jamming at the original SoulTrane in PNU brought them together. Since then, The Southbay has honed their identity with solid sets of nearly all original music. Next time you catch their show, pick up their extended EP disc. Look for a nationwide tour with Burning Hepburn starting in March and their sophomore EP release this summer, as they are currently in the studio hammering it out. Although they are unsigned at the moment, Dope Records out of Seoul is kicking in with sales and distribution. For more on The Southbay, check them out at www. myspace.com/southbaypunx or become a fan on Facebook by searching “The Southbay”.

Gettin’ Your T he outdoor Bujeon Si-jang (Bujeon Market) is your typical Asian open-air food and produce area: a sprawling collection of fruit carts, meat carcasses, and all manner of colorful characters who pass their days laughing, haggling, and gutting fish. What one might not expect to find, however, is the biggest concentration of music shops in Busan. But there they are, on the outskirts of the market’s Byzantine alleyways, inside a large nondescript white warehouse. While not the size of the Nakwon Arcade in Seoul, the Bujeon Musical Instruments Market is nevertheless a full on Shangri-la for Busan musicians. The hard-to-find spot is home to more than twenty-five smaller stores selling everything musically imaginable. Most shops offer repair services as well.

Where did you learn about guitar repair?

I was always interested in repairs and modifications and taught myself over the years, picking up information from friends and online. I used to practice on my own equipment so I had to buy a lot of cheap guitars and effects pedals, because I kept destroying them! Fortunately, that’s not a problem anymore. But I’m always studying and researching because there’s constantly new methods coming out. Everyone has their own preferences and playing style, so I try to focus on repair and set-up for the best playability. Playability is the most important thing.

As a guitar player yourself, what kind of equipment do you like to use? I love Fender Stratocaster guitars. There are so many tone colors on one Strat. I can play hard or soft, and it follows my touch. It’s the best guitar in the world! As for amps, I like the Fender Twin Reverb and Deluxe Reverb. Classic. How about effects? I like to use a lot of pedals: Ibanez Tube Screamer, ProCo Rat, Boss DS-1 and DD-3…lots of effects. Actually, I think a great player doesn’t really need effects, but can use them as a tool. Guitarists should experiment with many effects t o feel what fits their sound, the style of music they’re playing, the tone they’re looking for.

There is even a luthier who makes quality acoustic guitars onsite (check out the M2 shop). Good deals abound, but expect to shell out some decent coin for the imported stuff. A great shop to check out is Jo-eun Ak-g. (Phone: 051.809.8885) which is located roughly in the center of the complex. Look for the saxophones and trumpets on display and the ukulele hanging next to the store’s sign. They have been open for 10 years and offer a wide variety of musical instruments and amplifiers, along with repair and maintenance service from a friendly and knowledgeable staff. General manager Jo Jong-Won, better known by his nickname “Jimi,” has been my guitar tech since 2007. He’s done some fantastic work for me over the years, including pickup replacement, bridge repair, fretwork, and intonation adjustments. We sat down for awhile and talked gear. 20 busan haps

Can you recommend some good Korean-made guitars to our readers? Swing makes quality instruments. Indie also makes a good Les Paul-type guitar. There are some lesser known brands like M2 and Bluebird that are really nice, too. In the past, a lot of guitars were made in Korea. Foreign companies like Gretsch, Fender, Washburn, Epiphone, and Ibanez all had factories here. But recently they’ve moved the factories to other countries because of lower labor costs. Even Cort and Samick, two popular Korean brands, have moved a lot of their factories to China and Indonesia. As a result, the quality in the overseas factories has improved a lot. Most people wouldn’t know the difference between an American-made guitar and the same guitar made in Indonesia. But the difference is in the details.

Gear On By Gino Brann

What advice would you give to someone who is interested in buying a guitar? There are lots of different woods that affect the tone, so find out what kind of wood was used. Rosewood, mahogany, spruce, maple and alder are all common. Also consider the guitar’s design and the skill of the maker. And the most important thing of course is to play and try out a lot of different guitars. If it’s an electric guitar ask to plug it into an amp and hear how the pickups sound. Think about the kind of music you want to play, and go with what feels right. But if you’re a beginner, you probably won’t know the difference, so just go with the one that looks the coolest! How to get to the Busan Musical Instruments Market: From Bujeon subway station: take Exit 1 and walk straight until you’ve come to a dead-end at the Bujeon Train (not subway) Station. Turn left and walk about 3-5 minutes, Look left for a large white building with two ramps out front. -Gino is an American guitarist now living in Busan. He plays with the bands Klickitat and Pajama Day, and he’d love to jam with YOU.

Guitar repair guru, Jimi Jo (Photo: Jim Batcho)

Rage’s Tom Morello Fights for Korean Guitar Makers

ast month in Los Angeles, Rage Against the Machine guitarist, Tom Morello, put on a benefit concert for South Korean guitar makers formerly working for Cort Guitars (cortguitar. com), a South Korean company that is one of the largest guitar manufacturers in the world — building guitars for American companies such as Fender, Gibson and Ibanez. Cort closed its entire Korean plant in 2007, firing all workers in order to “avoid paying proper wages…and fix deplorable working conditions,” said Morello.“When the workers organized in 2006, formed a union and began demanding more justice and dignity in the workplace,the company fired everyone wholesale, shut the factory and moved them to China.” A statement from Fender says the company has offered to meet with the Korean Workers Metal Union next week to “better understand their claims against Cort and Cor-Tek.” The company says it’s also contacting related vendors, suppliers, dealers and other business partners to make sure the company has a full-view of the facts related to the issue. busan haps 21

Busan’s Own: Rainy Sun

Busan Has Always Been About the Music By Roy Kim

Over the years Busan has been well known for producing great musicians. Of course, most of them move to Seoul. Yet, with a growing number of bands in Busan —springing up from within and arriving from abroad— the area is enjoying a renaissance of great sound. Last year’s immensely popular ‘Battle of the Bands’ showed how hungry the city is for good, original music. Lady Goodman lead singer and songwriter, Roy Kim, takes a look at the re-emerging scene as well as the old.

ew people know that Busan’s indie scene back in 80s and 90s was truly a thing to behold. This was back during a time when Korea was taking in the western brand of music in a big dose for the first time. Even less well know is that many of Korean indie bands now wowing fans in Seoul actually perfected their chops right here in Busan during that era. In the early 80s, college bands based out of Pusan National University (PNU), Dong-A University and Pukyong University started making a name for themselves locally, mostly influenced by big-named western acts like Zeppelin, Cream, Deep Purple, Judas Priest, Iron Maiden and Metallica to name only a few. The Korean youth grabbed a hold of it and made it there own. Going into the 90s, the bar culture began to blossom with PNU at its center. Waves of young people headed out into the night knowing they could take in a good show every weekend. This was the time when Busan local bands that grew up on the “Seattle Sound” started to appear. Performing at the bars like Shiva, Nirvana, Rich Doll, The Crossroads, and Monk, they earned popularity and an expanding fan base while turning out their own interpretation of the western sound. Bands such as, Ann with ska punk, Pia with hard core metal, Rainy Sun with alternative 22 busan haps

and Every Single Day with melodic rock started filling local night spots with anxious listeners. Sadly, much of our homegrown talent, whether musicians, doctors or engineers head north. Most of the great acts originating here are now under contract with indie labels in Seoul. This trend continues to plague Busan as our great diversity of musicians is lost seeking a chance at fame and fortune in the big city. Not unlike artistic talent in America heading to New York or L.A. Fortunately, the scene in Busan is still strong. Along with Korean acts such as bluesmaster Lee Byunghoo, Lady Goodman, Southbay and the Cosmic Comics, a growing number of expat bands are keeping the scene alive —and with a wide variety of styles. Last year’s ‘Battle of the Bands’ truly highlighted that diversity with both Korean and expat musicians coming together to fight it out with a selection of their own original songs. Every night the event was filled to capacity. So much so that scores of eager fans were being turned away at the door. There is no doubt that the 2nd wave of the Busan music scene is upon us. What makes this time so exciting is the mix of local and international talent coming together to give Busan the awesome sound it deserves. So, get on out there and enjoy some of the best music in all of Asia.

Night Life Haeundae

Kyung Sung

Blowfish - A short taxi ride from Jangsan Subway Station to Song Jeong Beach lands you at the hippest beach side bar in Korea. As the motto says “Thailand in the Front, Afghanistan in the Back.”

HQ - Very cool place to chill out. Open Air, with tables in the window. French kiss Johnny, drinks on the house. Map on Page 28

“Beer is proof that God

Club Fabric - Dance Club with visiting DJ’s from all over the world. If you are looking to get your serious dance on this is your spot. Awesome decor.

to be happy.”

Miami 88 – Across from Haeundae Beach. Open air bar with large patio. Hip-Hop Music Nightly. Loads of Import Beers on Tap and quality western food. Located right behind the new BMW building. 051-746-6488

Foxy - Same owner as Fabric. Great spot for dancing and very good drink prices. Nice-uh.

24/7 Bar - A swank new spot in Haeundae that just opened but is already pulling a good crowd. A TV bank like you’ve never seen.

Thursday Party – Stylish, open air bar with outside seating and a good view of the Kyung Sung weekend night parade. Owner, Jacky has found the perfect mix for drinking and relaxing.

BK Beer Club – Massive bar a city block north of Primus. Great selection of beers. Check ‘em on the web: www.beerkoreaclub.com

New York 88 - Great selection of import beers and cocktails. Dart board, great music including Hip-Hop. They have a wide selection of beers and cocktails, buy 4 get one for free. 051-622-6988

Rock n’ Roll House – Bar and Grill with darts and pool. On the 14th floor across from the aquarium. Murpii Bar – On the beach at Novotel. Swank bar. Good spot to dance dance dance. 051-743-1234 U2 Bar – Dance Bar/Live Bands. Darts. One of the longest running expat bars in Busan Across from the Novotel. Ask for “Joo.” A must in Haeundae. Sunset Lounge – Named one of the top 10 bars in Korea by 10 Magazine in Seoul, Sunset sports five flat screens inside. Dinner parties, weekly special events. 051-742-2925 www.busanhaps.com/sunset Thursday Party – 2 locations in Haeundae. Great atmosphere, darts and a wide selection of beer. Jangsan: 051-703-6621. Beach: 051-744-6621 Starface – On Dalmaji Hill. All you can drink 20,000 Friday and Saturday, 7-11pm. Awesome house band. They’ve got good grub. 051-742-0600 Club Elune - Busan’s hippest place to dance. Any night there could be as many as 3000 people in this spacious club. Dress code, so leave the cut-off shorts at home. Unless you have really great legs. In the Paradise Hotel. 24 busan haps

Ghetto – Urban chic. Very popular with the Korean youth, but frequented by foreigners. Terry has a dart tournament there every Wednesday at 9:30 p.m. 010-4588-4697 Ol’55 – A music bar with character to spare. Live music on the weekends from some of Busan’s best musicians. Pool table. They have open mic on Wednesdays with the amazing Gino Brann. Vinyl - One of the longest running bars in Busan. A Large dance floor high ceilings, nice stage. Live music on weekends. Look for Andy Warhol’s big yellow banana. Recently remodelled and looking sweet. 051-628-0223 Eva’s – Open air bar. Happy hour 1012pm. Good menu with a variety of western food to satiate your palette. Great atmosphere and friendly service. Across from HQ. Kino Eye- Just look for the evil looking rabbit and you are there. Dark and chill. Good place for a blind date if you are unbappy with your own looks.

For more listings visit busanhaps.com

loves us and wants us ~Benjamin Franklin

Seomyeon Metal City - A new and increasingly popular spot. Darts, pool, live music and cheap drinks. Ask Gam-dong to do magic. He’s mind blowing. 051-807-4807 O’Brien’s - Just past Seomeyeon on the #2 subway line, Gaya station. Busan’s only Irish Bar Ask for Pat, give him a big hug, he loves it. 051-994-6541 Foxy - Two story dance club in the heart of Seomeyeon. Packed during the weekends. There is a private room you can rent with friends so you have access to the dance floor and still escape the mass. Rock n’ Roll Bar - Look for the large sign with Kurt Cobain down the small street perpendicular to Lotte Hotel. 3000 KRW cocktails, live music and a cooldive atmosphere. 051-818-3425 Guri Bar - Happening, divey bar behind Lotte Hotel. Ask for “Pan”-the very cool owner. Thursday Party - Good selection of drafts and cocktails. Busy on the weekends. Cozy atmosphere, great staff. Can’t go wrong with that. 051-818-6621

PNU Area

Soultrane – One of the area’s oldest and most well known foreign bars. In the basement beneath Crossroads. The Basement – One of the most popular bars in Busan for the past several years. Live music, pool, miniature basketball, hookahs and an excellent staff. Open Mic Tues, German-Reggae on Wed. Live music on Sat. Tell Matt he is handsome, he likes that. Crossroads – Open Mic on Thurs. Great music. 051-515-1181. Right in the heart of the PNU district. Interplay – Live music, Jazz, Korean Indie and punk. Open Mic Thurs. 011-873-2200 Monks Bar - Good spot for Korean indie bands. Great punk scene. Fallen off a bit with the expat crowd, but it is still Funky.

Gwangan-li

Fuzzy Naval - Similar in style and atmosphere to the one in Haeundae. Still has the fire show. They also serve food in the evenings. Not to be mistaken with the yet to be opened bar, Play with my Navel. WA Bar - Korean chain of beer bars. Famous for its wide selection of bottled beers laid out in large ice chests. The lighting is cool and the atmosphere friendly. Hollywood Star - Relaxed bar a few blocks off the beach. American nostalgia right down to the motorcycle in the middle of the bar. Pool/Darts. 051-622-6621 Thursday Party - Two locations to go with the others in Haeundae, Seomeyeon and Kyung Sung. On the Beach. 051-7580822/051-753-6621

26 busan haps

Bar Review:

A Slice of Japan in Busan Review and Photo by John Bocskay

ver the years, whenever I’ve felt the urge to get out of Busan for a breather, one of the places I’ve consistently headed to is Japan. For one thing, it’s close and easy to get there. For another thing, I like Japan. There, I said it. Lest I be accused of comparing Japan favorably to Korea, let’s just say Japan is pleasantly different and, as many Koreans, I enjoy visiting there. Sometimes that little bit of difference is all we need to recharge the batteries. Having a wife and kids makes it a little harder these days to just board the ferry on a whim for my little Fukuoka getaways. Instead, my wife and I escape to Minami, an inviting little corner of Japan where you can say sayonara to Busan at the door. Minami is actually two bars – Minami 1 and 2 – a few hundred meters from each other on the street behind the Grand Hotel in Haeundae Beach. Minami 1 opened in 1997 and immediately became a hit with Koreans who had worked or studied in Japan and were craving a taste of old Nippon. Not one to mess with a winning formula, the owner opened another bigger bar in exactly the same style (Minami 2) right down the street. Minami 2 was another instant hit. It opened in 2002 and has been packing them in ever since. Despite its larger size, it maintains the same warm vibe as its elder brother. Sturdy wooden tables surround a central sit-down bar in the Japanese dajinomi style. The bar wraps around a large grill and vats of broth where odaeng (fish cake) simmers. Wooden beams and the rising steam of the odaeng vats lend a warm, unpretentious atmosphere. Minami 2 can seat around 120 (Minami 1 maybe half that), but even at full capacity, it feels more cozy than crowded. Minami serves up 10 varieties of sake ranging from 15,000 won to 130,000 won a bottle, as well as draft Asahi beer (8,000 won for a 400cc reminder of what draft beer should taste like). They also serve soju (3,000 won) and baeksaeju (8,000 won) if you’d like

to keep one foot in Korea and some money in your pocket for the taxi ride home. If you’re looking to nosh, Minami serves up popular Japanese standbys like yakisoba (13,000 won), mixed odaeng (13,000) and my own favorite, okonomiyaki (15,000) served on a hot plate right off the grill. If you’re looking for a bit more than a side dish they offer a range of grilled fish, as well as sushi, California rolls, deep-fried shrimp in chili sauce, jumbo prawns, and many other fine options to make sure the booze doesn’t land on an empty stomach. The staff at Minami are friendly, quick, and attentive, but be prepared to speak Korean. The crowd is an eclectic mix of young and old, groups and couples, blue-collar and high roller. During the last film festival for example, you couldn’t swing a cat in Minami 2 without hitting a celebrity, yet sitting at the next table, hunched over five empty bottles of Chamiseul was Davy, who’s still in the navy, and probably will be for life… Actually, the cheesy Billy Joel reference is apt but a little out of place here because there is no music playing in Minami – a rarity in Busan’s boisterous bar scene – so be sure to bring someone you don’t mind talking to or you’re in for a long night. Or bring a date; Minami is great for a late bite or an intimate after-dinner drink if you’re in the mood for a little getting-to-know-you. Whatever your occasion, Minami is a great little place to step out of your routine and get your fix of that little bit of difference, Japanese style. To get there: From Haeundae Beach, walk with your back to the beach down the small street between the Grand Hotel and the as-yet-unopened Guerin Narae Hotel. Make the first right for Minami 2 (It will be a few steps further on your left) or make the first left for Minami 1 (It will be a couple hundred meters up on your right.) They are open from 6 p.m. to 5 a.m. busan haps 27

Korean Navy Launches First Destroyer Task Flotilla With Global Capability Earlier this month the South Korean Navy established its first naval task flotilla capable of global operations. Led by the 7,600-ton destroyer, King Sejong the Great, which is equipped with the Aegis naval weapons system, the flotilla is rounded out by six 4,500-ton KDX-II class multipurpose destroyers. Korea is one of only five countries licensed to use the American-made Aegis combat system, which allows a ship to simultaneously track over 100 targets. 28 busan haps

Busan ATEK Wants You! By Barbara Waldern and B.A. Coord

ATEK, the Association for Teachers of English in Korea, has been in existence only a short time, but has already been in the news for everything from filing complaints with the UN over required HIV testing, to having their president, Greg Dolezal, receive an anonymous death threat. But aside of being on the frontlines they are also doing some great community service here in Busan and want you to get involved.

t can be a real challenge: far from home in a land where a new language dominates, adjusting to a new employer, a new system and a new culture. Many issues are bound to arise. That’s why support and protection are needed. And, who better to understand our situation and needs than ourselves? By helping each other, we can ensure that teaching in Korea becomes a more positive experience for us al. Busan Association for Teachers of English in Korea (ATEK), is looking for volunteers to build the local in the Busan Metro area. We have many vacant positions for employed teachers here in Busan on teaching visas. Now just over a year old, ATEK is a nation-wide network for English teachers on E and F visas. It is an organization by and for teachers that is being built out of our shared experiences as employees in English language education working abroad. We work to uphold the welfare and rights of all teachers that come here to Korea. We provide emergency shelter for teachers who are summarily dismissed, and a sympathetic ear to those who need it. We also provide information on services and activities in Busan, and we are currently developing volunteer opportunities in Busan for

teachers interested in serving the Korean community that we are now proudly a part of. We already have a number of active volunteers, but we need more teachers to get involved. The organization will be what members make it, so we are always looking to expand and increase our voice. You can contact us at www.atek.or.kr, Busan PMA, and click on “join.” When you register online, we’ll get in touch. Barbara Waldern, a university professor, has been the Coordinating Chair since May 2009 when Busan ATEK first started coming together as a group. Corey Allen Ross, who teaches at a university part-time while studying, came aboard last summer and is getting back into the swing of things as the Professional Standards Coordinator this winter. Sean Burton, an academy teacher with an MA in history, came forward to be the Membership Coordinator last fall. But we still need a General Secretary, a Women and Minorities Status Coordinator, and sectorial representatives for hagwons, public schools, adult education and teachers on F visas. All positions except the Chair serve both the local coordinating committee and the national council. It’s great experience! You can reach Busan ATEK at: busan.atek@rocketmail.com or check their site: www.atek.or.kr busan haps 29

swimming

with sharks

By Marié Joubert

haven’t even seen the movie “Jaws” nor have many of my friends, but you only need to start with the sound track’s pounding, "du-du-du-du," to get a shiver down the spine. Still, I couldn't pass on a chance to swim with these marine monsters. If for nothing else than to send my mother the pictures. When I arrived at Busan Aquarium in Haeundae I was set up with gear and joined by one of the aquarium interns, Chung Hye-young. She has never actually put a regulator in her mouth so we started out playing around in a smaller pool —joined by three sharks. While Hye-Young re-learned how to breathe, I made sure all my under water-gadgets worked properly. Any diver knows you can do everything through your regulator under the water, as long as you keep it in your mouth. Even scream. And that’s exactly what happened when I poked my head under the water for the first time in the small tank. Little Miss Zebra Shark was curious about me and apparently wanted to know who was invading her personal space. Suddenly we were eye to eye. Leaving me —actually the bigger of the two— screaming a trail of bubbles in hip-deep water. When Hye-Young was all set we took the first steps into the big tank. With each move forward it was seeming more and more like an absolutely stupid thing to do. Once underwater, the first sight I saw was the alarmed faces of the visitors on the other side of the 30 busan haps

glass. Waves were exchanged, photos were posed for and hopefully a silent prayer said. It was then that I turned around to see one of the seventeen Grey Nurse Sharks (known as a relatively peaceful animal, unless provoked or hungry, but still, a SHARK!) just ahead. Within five minutes in the tank, most of the bigger sharks (one around three meters long) came over for a look. Or a bite. Or a scare-off. But they weren't too fond of our bodyguard Go Ji-woong and his air gun and quickly decided we weren't worth the trouble. The longer you are in the same space with these great souls of the big blue, the more respect and awe you feel. You are overtaken with the utmost fascination. Swimming within reach of these creatures, makes you feel very small and insignificant. The shark has been around for millions of years with nary an equal in its underwater world. And yet, there I was, a potential meal for twenty minutes. Afterwards, I stepped out of the water feeling as if I had been stirred from a dream. How could I leave a world where all you can hear is your own breathing, feel the water currents pushing and pulling you along and looking at a wonderful, yet strange and powerful fish in the eye, without even feeling remotely afraid? I must have been nuts. Enjoy the pictures, mom. If you want more information about booking a dive with the sharks at Busan Aquarium, visit www. busanaquarium.com.