ANZ is in 28 markets across Asia Pacific and we're growing. That means we've now got more financial specialists who share your regional interests and who take the time to fully understand your needs. They have the experience and the network to put you in touch with the right products, the right opportunities and the right people to help you reach your goals. Because, in Asia Pacific, connections count.
For more information please visit your nearest branch or contact us on !'j321 1079.
is a PapuaNewGuineansuccess story.Todaythe company is a well establishedbusinessconglomerate with diversecornmercialinterests andlistingson boththeAustralian andPortMoresbyStockExchanges.
The Groupemploysover 3,200 PNGcitizensand non citizensin six diverse companiesgrouped under three operatingdivisions: Logistics,PropertyandHotels,and Commercial.
It continuesto upholda company philosophywhich aims to offer quality, competitivegoods and servicesto all its customers; providesecureand challenging careersfor its staff; maintainthe highestbusinessethicsat alltimes; protecttheenvironmentfromharm; and earnsuperiorreturnsfor its shareholders.
We celebrated our 40th anniversarylast month and look forward to continuing to provide our valued passengerswith an improved level of commitment and customer service in the future.
Air Niugini is aware that aviation is a dynamic and ever changing industry and over the years,we have consistently invested resourcesto upgrade and improve our servicedelivery.
With the recent upgrade of our B767s,our international passengersare now enjoying the refurbished cabins featuring more comfortable seats,bigger seat pitch, new decor and of coursethe latest interactive state of the art entertainment system- designed to give our passengersa comfortable and relaxingjourney.
The three B737swill also be refurbishedwith the first to roll out in February2014 and we anticipate the last B737aircraft cabin refurbishment will be completed by May 2014.
Our domestic operation is focused towards providing more direct flights between ports and increased frequency on the high demand routes.An additional Fl 00 has been acquiredto support the reliability of the domestic schedule.Named as "City of Lae''.we will ensurethat servicesto the second largestcity in PNGbe constantly improved from the current five daily flights from Port Moresby.
We are heading for the busy festive seasonwhich starts in early Decemberand continues until the end of January2014.
Forthose who have accessto the internet, I am pleasedto saythat Online Check-inis now available.I would encourage you to use this facility especiallyduring the very busy weeksleading up to Christmas and New Year.This facility is availablefrom 24 hours to three hours before your flight departure. Otherwise, pleaseensureyou check in at leasttwo hours ahead of your departure in order to avoid disappointment.
Asthis is the final issuefor 2013,I would like to thank our loyal customersfor your patronage on both our international and domestic services.We look forward to future achievementsof serving PapuaNew Guinea,our citizensand visitors.
On behalf of the management and staff,I would like to wish you and your family a blessedChristmas and a prosperousNew Year.
Enjoyyour flight with us today.
Simon Foo,CBE CHIEF EXECUTIVEOFFICER
"A smile is the most important part of my job."
In my job, you've got to be ready for anything. For example, a passenger once asked if he could wind down his window to get some air. We have a 40-year tradition of great customer service and a perfect safety record. That's certainly something to smile about.
Paradise is the complimentary inflight magazine of Air Niugini, Papua New Guinea's international airline. It is published six times a year by Islands Business International.
Publisher/Managing Director
Godfrey Scoullar
Group Editor-in-Chief Laisa Taga
Advertising & Marketing Manager
Sharron Stretton
Design Stanley Prasad Dick Lee
Editorial Consultant Eva Ami
Islands Business International
GPO Box 12718, Suva, Fiji Islands
Tel: +679 330 3108
Fax: +679 330 1423
E-mail: advert@ibi.com.fj
Correspondence to the airline to:
The Chief Executive Officer AirNiugini PO Box 7186
Boroko, NCD, Papua New Guinea
Tel: +675 327 3458
Fax: +675 327 3550
Editorial correspondence to: Paradise Inflight Magazine
PO Box 12718, Suva, Fiji Islands
Tel: +679 3303 108
Fax: +679 3301 423
E-mail: editor@ibi.com.fj
Printing
In print Pty Limited
Cnr Bilsen & Zillmere Roads BoondalJ, Queensland, 4034 Australia
Unsolicited manuscripts, artwork, transparencies and photographs are submitted at the sender's risk. While all care will be taken neither the publishers nor the airline will accept responsibility for accidental loss or damage. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. Statements, opinions and points of view expressed by the writers are their own and do not necessarily represent those of the publisher, editor, or the airline. Information contained in this publication may be correct only at the time it was originalJy obtained by the writers and may be subject to change at any time and V:.ithout notice.
Kayan Masks and Garamuts
The sacred Garamut Festival
The Epic Voyage
PNG:A land that never ceases to amaze
Trekking Daugo Island
A 20-minute boat ride from Port Moresby
Wrecks Galore
Perfect dive at Kavieng
Photographing PNG
Defying ALL Odds
Martell Kuman a winner, role model
Creating a Future for Street Youth
Ricochet Cafe spearheads move
Cultural Festive Foods
It's that time of the year
OVERSEASDESTINATIONS: ASIA Encountering Whale Shark Only in Oslob!
Brian Bell Projects Division, 50 year
PNG experience offers the complete service - from design to fit-out for Restaurants
Mining Sites
Hotels
Clubs
COASTAL SHIPPING operate a fleet of coastal vessels that specialize in near coastal, estuarine and river trades in the Gulf and Western Provinces, with experience in shipping solutions throughout the New Guinea Islands and as far afield as Nauru and Australia.
Services include:
• Short and long term vessel charters
• Reliable cargo liner services
• Fleet of geared, multipurpose vessels ranging from S00DWT to 6000DWT
• All vessels over S00GT are all IACS classed and comply with all international maritime regulations including SOLAS and MARPOL
Operates from a Port Moresby hub with the following facilities:
• Port with 200m quay face
• Ro-ro ramp
• 20,000 square meters of hardstand lay down and storage area
MARINE ENGINEERING SERVICESprovide a variety of services which include:
• Dockyard
• Life raft survey and service
• Fabrication, including fiberglass composite repair, rigging, blasting, painting, canvas-work and upholstery.
• Alongside berthage up to 60m LOA
• Two slips catering for up to 1,000dwt
Joint Venture STEVEDORING have modern stevedoring and haulage equipment fleet. Operations, staff training and equipment benchmarked to Australian performance, health, safety and environmental standards.
If there is anything our cabin crew can assist you with during your flight, please do not hesitate to ask them.
Pleaseensure that your carry on luggage is placed in the overhead locker or under the seat in front of you.
Ensure that your seat is in the upright position during takeoff and landing. Folding tables must be returned to their original position in the seat back or the armrest.
Your seat belt must be securely fastened during take off and landing or whenever the seat belt sign is on. When the seat belt sign is off you may move about the cabin as necessary. However while seated, keep your seat belt fastened securely in case of unexpected turbulence.
Cellular telephones, TV receivers or radio controlled devices are not to be used at any time on board an aircraft. Electronic devices such as portable computers, compact discs or cassette players and video games can be used only when the seat belt sign is switched off.
The cabin crew will also be pleased to assist in preparing your baby's food and bottle. Baby food and diapers are also available. Pleasedo not hesitate to ask our friendly cabin crew.
Smoking is not permitted on any Air Niugini flight.
A selection of movies and music including classical, modern, country and local are available on international services. Programmes can be found in the in-flight entertainment section of this magazine.
On International flights, pillows and blankets are available on request from our cabin crew.
Our in-flight* meals have been specially prepared for your enjoyment. If you require a vegetarian meal or you are on a special diet, child or baby food, please inform us when making your reservation.
During the flight take some time to look through our In-flight Duty Free brochure located in your seat pocket. Duty free purchases can be made after Meal Service. All major credit cards are accepted.
During your flight, our cabin crew will distribute Immigration and Custom forms before each landing point. Ensure that you carefully read and complete these documents and have them ready for inspection with your passport at the Immigration and Customs arrival counters.
Pleasecheck your seat pocket and overhead lockers before you disembark to ensure you have not left any items of value. We look forward to seeing you when you next fly with us on our Bird of ParadiseService.
Length: 59.94m
Wing span: 47.57m
Range: 8100km
Cruising speed: 857kph
Length: 39.Sm
Wing span: 35.79m
Range: 8100km
Cruising speed: 857kph
Length: 33.6m
Wing span: 35.79m
Range: 6370km
Cruising speed: 830kph
Length: 35.528m
Wing span: 28.076m
Range: 3000km
Cruising speed: 780kph
Power plant: 2 x PW4000
Normal altitude: I 7000- 12000m
Standard seating capacity: 214
Number of aircraft in fleet: 2
Power plant: 2 x CFM56-7826
Normal altitude: 11300m
Standard seating capacity: 158
Number of aircraft in fleet: 2
Power plant: 2 x CFM56 - 7822
Normal altitude: 11300m
Standard seating capacity: 122
Number of aircraft in fleet: I
Power plant: 2 x RollsRoyceTay650
Normal altitude: 11000m
Standard seating capacity: 98
Number of aircraft in fleet: 6
Length: 32.8m
Wing span: 28.4m
Range: 3000km
Cruising speed: 670kph
Length: 25.7m
Wing span: 24.4m
Range: 1700km
Cruising speed: 510kph
DHC-8-202
Length: 22.25m
Wing span: 25.89m
Range: 1800km
Cruising speed: 550kph
DHC-8-100
Length: 22.25m
Wing span: 25.89m
Range: 1800km
Cruising speed: 500kph
Power plant: 2 xPratt& WhitneyPW150A
Normal altitude: 7500m
Standard seating capacity: 74
Number of aircraft in fleet: 3
Power plant: 2 x Pratt& WhitneyPW/23E
Normal altitude: 7500m
Standard seating capacity: 50
Number of aircraft in fleet: 3
Power plant: 2 x Pratt& WhitneyPW/230
Normal altitude: 7600m
Standard seating capacity: 36
Number of aircraft in fleet: 4
Power plant: 2 x Pratt& WhitneyPW/21
Normal altitude: 7600m
Standard seating capacity: 36
Number of aircraft in fleet: 2
Theseexercisesare designed to encourage a safe way to enjoy movement and stretch certain muscle groups that can become stiff as a result of long periods of sitting.They may be effective in increasingthe body's circulation and massagingthe muscles. We recommend you do these exercisesfor three or
four minutes every hour and occasionallyget out of your seat and walk down the aislesif conditions allow. Eachexerciseshould be done with minimal disturbanceto other passengers.None of the following should be performed if they cause pain or cannot be done with ease.
Lift feet off the floor: Drawa circlewith roes, simultaneouslymoving one foot clockwise and the other foot counterclockwise.
Reversecircles. Do eachdirection for 15seconds. Repeatif desired.
Lift leg with knee bent while contracting your thigh muscle. Alternatelegs. Repeat20-30times for eachleg.
Hunch shoulders forward,then upward, then backward. then downward usinga gentle circularmotion.
Startwith armsheld high at 90' angleelbowsdown, hands out in front. Raise handsup to chest and backdown alternatingarms. Do theseexercisesin 30 secondintervals.
Bendforwardslightly. Clasphandsaround left kneeand hug it to your chest.Hold stretchfor 15seconds. Keepinghandsaround knee,slowlylet it down. Alternatelegs. RepeatI 0 times.
With both feet on the floor and stomach held in slowly,bend forwardto walkyour handsdown the front of your legstowards your ankles.Hold stretchfor 15seconds and slowlysit backup.
Raiseboth arms straightup and over your head.
With one hand grasp the wrist of the opposite hand and gently pull to one side. Hold stretch for I 5 seconds. Repeatother side.
Reachright hand over left shoulder. Placeleft hand behind right elbow and gently presselbow towards shoulder.Hold stretch for 15seconds. Repeatother side.
With shoulders relaxed,drop ear to shoulderand gently roll neckforwardand to the other side, holding eachposition about 5 seconds. RepeatS times.
Footmotion Isin threestages.
1. Stanwith both heels on the floor and point feet upwardsashigh as you can.
2. Put both feet flat on the floor.
3. Lift heelshigh, keepingballsof feet on floor Continue thesethreestageswith continuousmotionin 30 secondintervals.
NCS is part of the Anitua group. Providing complete end-to-end solutions, spanning industries as diverse as shipping, hospitality, property development, construction and mining. www.anitua.com.pg
What makes our way unique is the way in which we work with our customers. Building strong relationships based on respect, shared knowledge and ongoing support.
It's the NCS way, our personalised way of doing business, bringing together the best aspects of partnership, support, smart thinking and diversity of experience. Our experienced teams bring proven knowledge and skills to deliver consistently high standards across all areas of camp management and catering. It's a level of experience that is unmatched in Papua New Guinea.
Tolearnmoreabouthowwe canassistyou in meeting yourchallenges,pleasecontactus:enquiries@ncs.com.pg Phone(675)302 1500 Fax(675)302 1581www.ncs.com.pg
Meeting the challenge every day
At Air Niuginiwe careabout your comfortand safety. We haveincludedthe followinginformationaboutyour health in-flightthat we hope you will find helpfuland useful.
When you are flying you can be seated and be inactive for long periods of time. The environment can be low in humidity and pressurised up to an altitude of 2240 metres above sea level. Unlike other forms of transportation, air travel allows for rapid movement across many time zones, causing a disruption to the body's "biological clock''.
Although these unique factors do not pose a health or safety threat to most passengers, there are guidelines you can follow that will improve your comfort level, during and after a flight. We hope the following recommendations will help you have a more pleasant flight today and in the future.
Increasing age above 40 years
Pregnancy
Recent major surgery or injury, especially to lower limbs or abdomen
Oestrogen hormone therapy, including oral contraceptive
Dehydration
Heart failure
Trauma
Varicose veins
Obesity
Tobacco smoking
Recommendations
When you're sitting upright in a stationary position for a long period of time, several things can happen.
The central blood vessels in your legs can be compressed, making it more difficult for the blood to get back to your heart.
The long inactivity of your body muscles in this position can result in muscle tension, back aches or a feeling of excessive fatigue during, or even after, your flight.
A stationary position inhibits the normal body mechanism for returning fluid to your heart, and gravity can cause the fluid to collect in your feet. This results in swollen feet after a long flight.
Studies have concluded that prolonged immobility may be a risk factor in the formation of clots in the legs (DVT - deep vein thrombosis). Particular medication and medical conditions may increase the risk of formation of clots if associated with prolonged immobility.
Medical research indicates that factors which may give you an increased risk of blood clots in the legs include:
Former or current malignant disease
Blood disorders leading to increased clotting tendency
Personal or family history of DVT
Immobilisation for a day or more
If you fall into any of these categories or you have any concern about your health and flying, Air Niugini recommends you seek medical advice before travelling. Follow our in-flight exercises programme.
The main cause of jetlag is travelling to different time zones without giving the body a chance to adjust to new night-da) cycles. In general, the more time zones you cross during youl flight, the more your biological clock is disturbed. p
The common symptoms are sleeplessness,tiredness, loss of d appetite or appetite at odd hours.
Recommendations
Get a good night's rest before your flight. Arrive at your destination a day or two early, to give your body a chance to become more acclimatised to the new time zone.
Leave your watch on home time if you're staying at a destination less than 48 hours. Also try to eat and sleep according to your home time.
Changeyour watch to the local time if your stay is longer than 48 hours,and try to eat and sleep in accordancewith the local time.
On longer stays,try to prepare in advance, adjustyour meal and rest times to be closerto those of your destination.
Trysome light exercise- go for a brisk walk, or do some readingif you can't sleep after arrivalat your destination. It generallytakes the body's biological clock s approximatelyone day to adjust per time zone crossed.
Flydirect to minimise flight time. This allows you to :iVe relaxmore upon arrival.
Humidity levelsof lessthan 25 percent are common in the cabin.This is due to the extremely low humidity levels of outside air supplied to the cabin.The low humidity can causedrying of the nose,throat, eyesand it can irritate contact lens wearers.
Recommendations
Drinkwater or juices frequently during the flight
1• Drinkcoffee,tea and alcohol in moderation.Thesedrinks actsas diuretics,increasingthe body's dehydration. Removecontact lensesand wear glassesif your I eyesare irritated.
Usea skin moisturiserto refreshthe skin.
Propereating and drinking will enhance your comfort both '.)f during and after your flight.
Recommendations
Avoid overeatingjust prior to and during the flight. It is difficult to digest too much food when the body is inactive.
Drinkcoffee,tea and alcohol in moderation.Thesedrinks act asdiuretics,increasingthe body's dehydration.
It is necessaryto pressurisethe outside air drawn into the cabin to a sufficient density for your comfort and health.
Cabinsare pressurisedto a maximum cabin altitude of 2440 metres.It is the sameair pressureas if you were at an elevation of 2440 metres above sea level.The cabin pressureand normal ratesof change in cabin pressureduring climb and descent do not pose a problem for most passengers.However,if you suffer from upper respiratoryor sinus infections,obstructive pulmonary diseases,anaemiasor certain cardiovascular conditions, you could experiencediscomfort. Children and infants might experiencesome discomfort becauseof pressurechange during climb and descent.
If you are suffering from nasalcongestion or allergies, use nasalsprays,decongestantsand antihistamines30 minutes prior to descent to help open up your ear and sinus passages.If you have a cold or flu or hay fever your sinuses could be impaired.Swollen membranes in your nose could block your eustachiantubes-the tiny channels between your middle ear chamber.This can causediscomfort during changes in cabin pressure,particularly during descent.
Recommendations
If you have a pre-existing medical condition that warrants supplemental oxygen,you can order from us. Pleasegive at least sevendays notice before travelling.
To"clear"yourearstry swallowing and/or yawning. Theseactions help open your eustachiantubes, equalizing pressurebetween your ear chamber and your throat.
When flying with an infant, feed or give your baby a dummy during descent.Suckingand swallowing will help infants equalizethe pressurein their ears.
This ailment is caused by a conflict between the body's senseof vision and its senseof equilibrium. Air turbulence increasesits likelihood becauseit can causemovement of the fluid in the vestibular apparatusof the inner ear. If you have good visual cues (keeping your eyesfixed on non-moving object), motion sicknessis lesslikely to occur.
Recommendations
When weather is clear and you can seethe ground, seaor horizon,you are lesssusceptibleto motion sickness. You can buy over the counter medications but we recommend that you consult your doctor about the appropriate medications.
Port Moresby
POBox 7186 Boroko
SalesDomestic & International
Tel:327 3444 Fax:327 3308
ReconfirmationDomestic & International
Tel:327 3444
Arrival & Departure Information
Tel:327 3300
Cargo Enquiries
Tel:327 3245
Cargo Charter Enquiries
Cargo:327 3226 Pass:327 3370
Head Office
Airport & Administration
JacksonsAirport Saraga
Tel:327 3200/3259000
Alotau
POBox 3 Alotau Gurney Airport
Tel:641 0158
Administration & Reservations
Tel:641 1031 Fax:641 1636
Buka
POBox 169
BukaSales
Tel:973 9655 Fax:973 9656
Airport Tel:973 9082
Goroka
POBox683 Goroka
Reservations
Tel:732 1444 Fax:732 1439
Kavieng
Administration, Reservations& Cargo
Tel:984 2135
Airport: Tel:984 2105 Fax:984 2337
Kimbe-Hoskin5
POBox 181 Kimbe
Administration, Reservations& Cargo
Tel:983 5077 Fax:983 5669
Arrival& Departure Information Tel:985 0012
Kundiawa
POBox847 Kundiawa
Tel:735 1273
Lae Administration, Domestic, Reservations& Cargo
Tel:472 3111 Fax:472 4758
International Reservations Tel:472 4744
Lihir
Reservations
Tel:986 5151 Fax:986 5134
Lorengau/Manus
PO Box 170 Lorengau
Administration, Reservations& Cargo
Tel:470 9092 Fax:470 9382
Madang
POBox 140 Madang
Administration& Reservations
Tel:852 2255 Fax:852 2079
Mendi
POBox210 Mendi
Administration& Reservations
Tel:549 1233 Fax:549 1250
AirportTraffic
Tel:549 1320
Mt Hagen
POBox3 Mt Hagen
ReservationsDomestic
Tel:542 1183/5421122
ReservationsInternational
Tel:542 1039
Enquiries
Tel:545 1444 Fax:542 2361
POBox 145 Popondetta
Reservations
Tel:329 7022 Fax:329 7227
Airport Tel:329 7191
Rabaul
POBox 3120 Rabaul
Reservations& Sales
Tel:983 9325 Fax:982 9034
TokuaAirport Arrival & Departure
Information Tel:983 9821
Tabubil
POBox 545Tabubil
Domestic Reservations
Tel:649 3244
International Reservations
Tel:649 3325 Fax:649 9189
TariAgent
Tel:540 8023
Vanimo
PO Box239Vanimo
Tel:857 1014 Fax:857 1473
Airport Tel:857 7166
Wabag& Wapenamanda
POBox213 Wabag
Administration Tel:547 1274
Arrival & Departure Information Tel:547 1286
Waigani
POBox7186 Boroko
Tel:325 1055 Fax:325 3683
Wewak
POBox61 Wewak
Sales
Tel:856 2433
International& Domestic
Tel:856 2367 Fax:856 2203
Airport Tel:856 2367
AIR NIUGINIOFFICES
AustraliaWide
LocalCall:1300361 380
Brisbane Level3, 97 CreekStreet
GPOBox2216 BrisbaneQLD4001
AustraliaTel:(61 7) 3221 1544
Fax:(61 7) 32200040
Email:sales.brisbane@airniugini.com.pg
Cairns
Shop 1 PalmCourt 34 LakeStreet PO Box 1941,CairnsQLD4870Australia
Tel (61 7)40311611
Fax:(61 7) 4031 3402
Email:sales.cairns@airniugini.com.pg
Sydney SomareHouse 100ClarenceStreet POBox5293SydneyNSW2001
AustraliaTel:(61 2) 9290 1544
Fax:(61 2) 9290 2026
Email:sales.sydney@airniugini.com.pg
Manila
3rd Floor,FortuneOffice Building 160LegaspiStreet,LegaspiVillage, MakatiCity,Philippines
Tel:(63 2) 891 3339/40/41
Fax:(63 2) 891 3393
Email:sales.manila@airniugini.com.pg
AIRNIUGINIGSAOFFICES
Auckland/CookIslands WalshesWorld Tel:(64 9) 9772230
Cebu,Philippines
DestinationsSpecialists
Tel:(6332)231 2461
Fax:(6332)2310852
Email:marget@destinationscebu.com
Hong Kong
TamWing Kun HoldingsLtd Tel:(852)2527 7098
Fax:(852)2527 7026
Honiara
TravelIndustry Services
Tel:(67)720 336
Fax:(67)723 887
Email:kevin@gts.com.sb
Italy
SpazioSRL Tel(39)064985621
Fax(39)064985201
Jakarta P.T.Ayuberga
Tel:(62)218356214-217
Fax:(62)21 835 3937
KualaLumpur
Abadi Aviation Services
Tel:(603)21484313
Fax:(603)21412322
Email:pxkul@abadi.com.my
LosAngeles
PNGTourism
Tel:(1)949 752 5440
Fax:(1)949 4716 3741
Email:sales.usa@airniugini.com.pg
Perth,Australia
World Aviation Systems
Tel:(61 8) 92299370
Email:Leigh.Cathcart@worldaviations. corn.au
PortVila
VanuatuTravelServicesLtd
Tel:(67)822 2836
Fax:(67)823 3583
Seoul SharpInc
Tel:(82)2734 7100
Fax:(82)27347108
Singapore
DeksAir
Tel:(65)62504868
Fax:(65)6253 3425
Email:px_sales@deksair.com.sg
Sri Lanka
JetwingAir
Tel:(94) 114732400
Email:airniugini@jetwing.lk
Suva,Fiji
DiscountFlight Centre
Tel:(679)331 7870
Fax:(679)331 7873
Taipei
ChaMayTravelService
Tel:(88)6 25007811
Fax:(88)6 25007970
Tokyo
Alconet Corporation
Tel:(81)3 5733-2567
Fax:(81)3 5733-2568
Email:info@airniugini.cojp
United Kingdom
Flight Directors
Tel:(44)087024 00 767
Fax:(44)087024 02 208
Email:airniugini@fiightdirectors.com
Port Moresby
PO Box7186 Boroko
SalesDomestic& International
Kavieng
Madang Tabubil
Administration, POBox 140Madang POBox545Tabubil
Reservations& Cargo
Tel:327 3444 Fax:327 3308 Tel:984 2135
ReconfirmationDomestic& Airport:
International Tel:984 21OS Fax:984 2337
Tel:327 3444
Arrival& Departure Information Kimbe-Hoskins
POBox 181 Kimbe
Tel:327 3300
Cargo Enquiries
Tel:327 3245
Administration & Reservations
Tel:852 2255 Fax:852 2079
Mendi
POBox210 Mendi
Domestic Reservations
Tel:649 3244
InternationalReservations
Tel:649 3325 Fax:649 9189
Administration & Reservations TariAgent
Tel:549 1233 Fax:549 1250
Tel:540 8023
Administration,Reservations& Cargo Airport Traffic Vanimo
Tel:983 5077 Fax:983 5669
CargoCharter Enquiries Arrival& DepartureInformation
Cargo:327 3226 Pass:327 3370 Tel:985 0012
HeadOffice Kundiawa
Airport & Administration
JacksonsAirport Saraga
Tel:327 3200/3259000
Alotau
POBox3 Alotau GurneyAirport
Tel:641 0158
POBox847 Kundiawa
Tel:735 1273
Lae
Administration,Domestic,
Tel:549 1320
Mt Hagen
POBox239Vanimo
Tel:8571014 Fax:8571473
PO Box3 Mt Hagen Airport
ReservationsDomestic
Tel:542 1183/5421122
Tel:857 7166
ReservationsInternational Wabag& Wapenamanda
Tel:542 1039 POBox213Wabag
Enquiries
Tel:545 1444 Fax:542 2361
Administration
Tel:547 1274
Reservations& Cargo Arrival& DepartureInformation
Administration & Reservations Tel:472 3111 Fax:472 4758 Popondetta
Tel:641 1031 Fax:641 1636
Buka
International Reservations POBox 145 Popondetta
Tel:472 4744
Lihir
Tel:547 1286
Reservations Waigani
Tel:329 7022 Fax:329 7227
PO Box 169 Airport
BukaSales Reservations
Tel:973 9655 Fax:973 9656
POBox7186Boroko
Tel:325 1055 Fax:325 3683
Tel:329 7191
Tel:986 5151 Fax:986 5134 Wewak
Airport Rabaul POBox61 Wewak
Tel:973 9082
Lorengau/Manus
PO Box 170 Lorengau
POBox3120 Rabaul Sales
Reservations& Sales Tel:856 2433
Goroka Administration, Tel:983 9325 Fax:982 9034 International& Domestic
PO Box683 Goroka Reservations& Cargo
Reservations
Tel:732 1444 Fax:732 1439
TokuaAirport Arrival& Departure
Tel:856 2367 Fax:856 2203
Tel:470 9092 Fax:470 9382 Information Airport
Tel:856 2367
Tel:983 9821
Escort Services
Transport Services
Quick Response Force
Armed Security
Patrol Guards
Static Guards
Cash & Valuables Transport & Storage
Close Personal Protection
Aviation & Maritime Security
Security Audits & Briefings
Residential Security Solutions
K9 Services
email: enquiries@pg.g4s.com
web: www.g4s.com
tel: +675 305 8300
Vehicle & Personal GPS Tracking & Response
Access Control Systems
CCTV Systems
Intruder Detection Systems
Building Management Systems
24 x 7
Remote Monitoring & Response
VHF/UHF Radio Communications
HF Systems
Satellite Solutions & Phones
Corporate Voice Systems (PABX)
Field Installation & Maintenance
• Alotau - 641 1386
• Goroka - 532 2153
• Kainantu - 537 1003
• Kavieng • 984 2099
• Kimbe - 983 5099
• Kokopo - 982 9099
• Kundiawa • 535 1360
• Lae - 473 5011 / 5012
• Madang - 422 3232
• Mt Hagen - 542 2400
• POM Boroko - 300 4600
• POM Vision City - 310 0040
• Popondetta - 629 7081
• Telikom Rumana - 302 5555 / 5512
• Vanimo - 457 1125
• Wewak - 456 2866
Driving north from the town of Madang, the North Coast Road offers spectacular views of idyllic beaches, Karkar Island and the smoking volcano of Manam Island.
After a couple of hours, the asphalt ends, the road gets bumpier and a wise driver slows down.
Eventually, after some five hours, the road passes a church that marks the edge of a village.
The road leads up to a main street that is the centre of a neat village with large 'thatched houses sitting high on thick posts
At the other end of the village is a small river with an island of mangroves on the other side. This is the end of the road. This is the boundary of Madang and East Sepik provinces. This is Kayan village.
But while Kayan village may be at the end of the road, it is neither isolated nor disconnected. There is a regular morning and dusk flow of travellers who come here to transfer from trucks going to Madang Town and small outboard motor boats going to villages at the mouth of the Sepik or even as far as Wewak, five hours' away.
Personal relationships are always important in Melanesia, but especially so in a village such as this, where transportation networks are mirrored in wantok and extended family relationships of reciprocal responsibilities extending throughout the region.
Many of these relationships are longstanding and go from one generation
to another. For example, some decades ago Felix Yamuna from Mendam village in the Murik Lakes area of East Sepik commissioned a garamut to be built. His village had a long tradition of buying cultural knowledge and artefacts from Kayan. This stems from the dawn of time, when two brothers created the known world. One is said to have been a huntergatherer who seems to have given his knowledge to the Murik Lakes people, while the other a craftsman, gave his knowledge to Kayan.
Since then, the people of Men dam village have been seeking to learn what knowledge the First Craftsman may have given to Kayan.
A garamut is a living creation with a soul and human parents. It needs to be born, given a name and taught how speak.
Felix died before being able to pick up the garamut. When his son, Dr Lynus Yamuna, moved to Madang to lecture at the Divine Word University, he asked about it.
The debt was remembered and his garamut was ready. But it wasn't just a matter of Lynus dropping by to pick it up and carry it home.
A garamut is a living creation with a soul and human parents. It needs to be born, given a name and taught how to speak.
For Lynus' garamut, this was at the Kayan Masks and Garamut Festival in September 2013.
Before sunrise on the morning of the naming ceremony, Gomtik, the Head Spirit of the tumbuan (spirit masks) could be heard throughout the village warning women and daughters to leave.
They ran into the jungle to hide before guardian spirit masks came out to ensure thal only males were left in the village.
Accompanying the Tukuman Spirit.
The playing sticks and other paraphernalia associated with the garamuts were scattered throughout the village. The new guardians had the task of finding and reassembling all the pieces to prove they would be worthy guardians.
Invited guests from Divine Word University (DWU)then entered the village, led to a stage by a grasshopper tumbuan in a dance that is often called the Dragon Dance by outsiders because of its resemblance to Chinese dragon dances.
Kayan has a long relationship with the university and this was celebrated at this festival. One of the kukurai (chiefs) of Kayan, Caspar Bass, has been a university employee since it was first founded, and a garamut called Kabining (after Caspar's clan's ancestral spirit) sits in the university library as a symbol of the link between traditional knowledge and book learning.
DWUanthropology lecturer Alphonse Aiine was present as a host. He recently took two other garamuts called Yoberber and Raing (after the designs on them) to the University of Queensland in Brisbane, where he is writing a doctoral dissertation about the role of garamuts in Kayan society.
Yoberber and Raing will be a constant reminder of the strong links between the University of Queensland and the many Papua New Guineans who have been educated there.
With some help from his brothers, Lynus was able to find his garamut sticks and reassemble everything in time for the opening ceremony.
The mother of the garamut broke open a coconut over the garamut, naming it Taregon, the spirit of the sea eagle and the ancestral spirit of Lynus' clan.
The Kayan Mask and Garamut Festival is held every few years. The elders of the village invite visitors from elsewhere in PNG and other countries to come to their village at the end of the road to join them in the next festival so they can establish more ties with new places.
It was welcomed with a song from the Murik Lakes telling the story of a sea eagle that swooped down to catch a fish, almost dropped it, and had to swoop down and adjust his grip to carry it away.
Taregon joined an orchestra of other garamuts, new and old, to sing as various tumbuan came out of a sacred enclosure to dance. As they danced, the security and mischievous tumbuan called Gapai kept order and made sure a proper sense of dignity was maintained.
The Kayan Mask and Garamut Festival is held every few years. The elders of the village invite visitors from elsewhere in PNG and other countries to come to their village at the end of th road to join them in the next festival so they can establish more ties with new places
• Marc Konik is a Lecturer in Cinematography and Craig Alan Volker is Professor of Linguistic Studies at Divine Word University in Madang. The public release of the images on these photos have been approved by the kukurai (chiefs) of Kayan village.
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BYJACKYLAWES
e were 32 passengers in all on two ships (the MV Miss Rankin and the Surveyor) with two captains (James and Tony Collins) and fabulous local crew as we set out on our adventure cruise around PNG.
This epic voyage lived up to its name and was the collaboration between The Collins Brothers and John Sinclair, who previously ran Go Bush Safaris.
The itinerary was based on their local knowledge of PNG and some particular passenger requests. Well-known and wellloved naturalist Ian Morris was unable to attend at the last minute and Bruce Alexander stepped in as an entrepreneur and storyteller.
Our adventure was richly informed by stories of those who had lived in PNG and by excellent local guides.
With an average age of 65, we were an
Reaching the mouth of the Fly, we ventured intrepid and fearless lot of Epickers! Where into the delta region and visited Aird possible, we visited schools and distributed Hill,the home of Ben Butcher of the LMS much welcomed educational and sporting (London Missionary Society) who went to materials. replace James Chalmers (also ofLMS) who . had been massacred by headhunters. Our adventure began at Tabubil with a visit to the mist enshrouded Ok Tedi mine, then Particular interest in this visit was to locate on to Kiunga at the headwaters of the Fly and record the burial site of Phyllis Meuri River where we boarded our vessels Miss Butcher, Butcher's daughter who had died Rankin and Surveyor. there at the age of eight, and we were At Kiunga, we made a dawn trek into the successful in doing this. rainforest to see and hear the Birds of Aird Hill is a very beautiful place with the Paradise and later enjoyed our first of Originalhouse and early equipment still many sing-sings. intact at the village of Arrow, paying tribute to Butcher's legacy. Also, there was a wellHeadin~ off down the Fly,we visited villages weathered monument to Chalmers. of KukuJaba,Kuatra and Sapuka and greatly enjoyed the wonderful birdlife and beauty of After a very rough passage across the Gulf Suki Wetlands. We saw evidence of refugee of Papua, we arrived at Port Moresby which settlements along the river. There was also Wasa great contrast to where we had just evidence of degradation due to deforestation. been.
Firstly, we visited the Adventure and Nature Park and saw ,:}worcer+ul array of birds and animals 1nclud1ngthe Ragg1anaB rd of Paradise, Lawes's Parot1a, Blyth's Hornbill, tree kangaroos and many more. It also housed the National Orchid Collection which took our collective breath away.
Firstly, we visited the Adventure and Nature Park and saw a wonderful array of birds and animals including the Raggiana Bird of Paradise, Lawes's Parotia, Blyth's Hornbill, tree kangaroos and many more.
It also housed the National Orchid Collection which took our collective breath away.
The Bomana War Cemetery contains more than 3,000 graves and is beautifully maintained. After our visit there, we lunched at the Royal Papuan Yacht Club before visiting the museum and taking a photo opportunity at Parliament House.
Then followed a highlight for me as we visited Hanuabada in search of the place where my great grandfather, W G Lawes, lived during his time in Port Moresby.
He with his wife was the first LMS missionary to live on a permanent basis in Papua (1874-1905).
His closest friend and colleague was
Ben Butcher in his autobiography We Lived with the Headhunters (1963) tells of meeting Lawes as he was leaving Papua for the last time.
We were welcomed by the local pastor and treasurer who showed us the monument on the site where Lawes' house had once stood and it was moving to see how revered these missionaries and especially my great grandfather still are after all these years.
The local Post Courier newspaper appeared and reported our visit (May 28, 2013). As result of this coverage, other related people of the church approached me with news that they were about to erect another memorial plaque for Lawes on the anniversary of his landing at Papaka on June 24, 1876! There was also a monument to the South Seas pastors and to Ruatoka, the first local Papuan-ordained minister.
Dei Dei hotspringsof au (East Fergusson
The pastor beamed happ ly a us with his tua, sm1 e and the teachers amongst us were impressed and happily gave donations of bcoks, paper, etc Anothe rte'est also was a monument to C'lr stopre Robinson, 'Abe Gove 'lO , Upright Judge' whose goal was 'to '77ake New G1..,1nea-:-3g',r d cn1Jr..ry for wr 1te me 1'
At Happy Hour, we were visited by Port Moresby friends and many hilarious tales and jokes were exchanged.
We left Port Moresby on a full moon evening and headed east into another rough crossing of the Coral Sea, stopping for respite snorkels offWakauveli and Suau Islands on the way to Samarai.
It was fascinating to see this once thriving port and capital of East Province and imagine its rich and elegant history. Its
deterioration following the bombing by Allied Forces during the war to prevent Japanese intrusion was only too apparent.
The old Anglican Church and the former Burns Philp building were in ruinous condition and the hospital on top of the • had recently burned to the ground. But thi decay was matched with rebuilding. The new hospital is on sea level and in good condition.
The pastor beamed happily at us with his buai smile and the teachers amongst us were impressed with the school and happily gave donations of books, paper, etc. Another interest also was a monument to Christopher Robinson, 'Able Governor, Upright Judge' whose goal was 'to make New Guinea a good country for white men' From Samarai, we cruised to the Trobrian Islands and the Dei Dei hotsprings of
The highl1grit o+ the trip for nearly everyone was the Trobnand Islands cricket match This 1nvolvec many Trobrianders in trad1t1onalcostume - it doesn't matter how many on a side so long as each side has the same. Tre rules were u-irecognisable except that sledging was encouraged with the goal being thdt everyone has as mucr fun as possible!
Palagwau (East Fergusson Island) offered fabulous displays of colours and warm vapours.
The vegetation en route and surrounds was rich and full of life - pitcher plants, dragon flies, birdwing butterflies and songs of manucodes.
Kiriwina Island provided lots of action including a very hot walk from Kaibola village (transport did not arrive) to inspect megaliths suspected to be man-made remnants from a previous culture; sing-sing at Omarikama and Obweria villages, then on to Buria Lodge Resort for lunch.
The highlight of the trip for nearly everyone was the Trobriand Islands cricket match. This involved many Trobrianders in traditional costume - it doesn't matter how many on a side so long as each side has the same.
The rules were unrecognisable except that sledging was encouraged with the goal being that everyone has as much fun as possible!
Several £pickers went in to bat but not for long! (Apparently, the BBCmade a famous documentary of the Trobriand Islands cricket match many years ago.)
Our final delight of the day at Bweka village was a distinctly Polynesian flavoured sing-sing by beautiful Trobriand young men and women accompanied by melodious guitars and singing of the villagers.
Bweka is the home of Premier Chief John and the sing-sing was performed in a beautiful clearing surrounded by large shady trees.
Leaving the Trobriands, we headed for the Luscancay Island Group, then Tami Island finally anchoring off Ritter Island (Kul Kul), a remnant volcano and source of great geological interest. We tried to climb a volcano and see megapodes on Long Island but to no avail, so we compensated with a swim.
Heading west, we avoided Vitiaz Strait and reached Madang and moored off the Madang Club. We were joined in Madang by James' family for lunch at the Country Club which added a nice personal touch.
Bernie Leahy joined us for Happy Hour. We left Bruce in Madang to pursue his next job as deer and buffalo hunter.
Other Sepik villages of Tambanum, Kam naoIt, Pa embe1 and Kanganaman proffered ric'l opportunity For buy119 arteiacts anc sing-sings. And at Palembei and Kanganaman, we were invited into Spirit Houses, apparently a new 1rrovat on to c.ate· for toL,rism.
Onward to the Sepik! We passed volcanic Manam Island early in the morning with its plumes of ash and smoke. It was a spectacular sight but not too threatening. There were many volcanic islands which provided a ven picturesque outlook as we headed for the Sepik.
The opening to the Sepik was modest by comparison to the Fly - there was some muddy outflow and quite a small entrance. We thoroughly enjoyed being back on river cruising and bird-spotting mode and stopped again at various villages along the way: Angoram then onto Kambarambi which was a really fascinating village of stilt houses. Despite obvious flooding, everyone was out to greet us either on platforms of houses, in dugouts or sailing boats. It was a real spectacle for all to share.
Sadly, the local school had been destroyed but found a replacement to give our usual donations to. Other Sepik villages of Tambanum, Kaminabit, Palembei and Kanganaman proffered rich opportunity for buying artefacts and sing-sings. And at Palembei and Kanganaman, we were invited into Spirit Houses, apparently a new innovation to cater for tourism.
High water levels meant that we had to approach Palembei by banana boat and this was truly beautiful in the early morning light. On our return down the Sepik, we also stopped at Marienberg, a Catholic mission with a strong German history.
Once out of the Sepik, we were again in rough waters so we headed straight for Wewak where we visited Cape Worn, the site of the Japanese surrender and the end of World War Two.
We made a rather dramatic 3am disembarkation in the rain but all made the flight back to Port Moresby, and then home. Another fabulous adventure in a land .• which never ceases to amaze! V
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BY DIANNAMCMANUS
Weekend picnic playground and site of the annual Royal Papua Yacht Club picnic, Daugo Island or Fisherman's Island as the expats call it, is a mere 20-minute speedboat ride from Port Moresby.
A village at one end and a gleaming white beach with its stand of palm trees at the other, this five-kilometre long island is "the safest place in Port Moresby", according to its inhabitants.
Recently, I was fortunate enough to hike the island from one end to the other with my POMSAC(Port Moresby Sub Aqua Club) playmates. or] stn sch yea stu Cor we rniJ old spa abc sha we spr
This is part of a developing relationship ~he between the islanders and the 'mainland' Y1 which could lead to further tourism Vill. opportunities and an alternative source ~up of income for the people who live there. 01
In fact, POMSACboat skipper, whose first rec, name is Keimelo, is from the island. enc to h
Our hiking host was his cousin Joel and Keimelo, who was there to meet us with era, another cousin Vai, as we beached the whi POMSACboat in front of curious villagers. in t
Children clustered in groups as women threw water on the pigs to keep them cool in their stilt cages which extended out to the water's edge.
A few men were working on their outrigger canoes, getting them ready for the afternoon fishing when the tide was right. It was a placid, laid-back sight reflecting decades of timelessness.
The village was a mish mash of modern timber houses with verandahs overlooking the sea and the mainland, makeshift buildings erected from sheets of metal or boards, and sturdy concrete block structures such as the church and primary school which goes up to Grade 8. At sixteen years old, Vai was proud to be a Grade 8 student.
Confirming that it was okay to take photos, we set off through the sandy village on our mini trek. Pigs wandered amongst houses, older children were involved in weekend sporting matches, family groups went about their business or sat chatting in the shade greeting us with friendly smiles as we passed. Tranquility was the word that sprang to mind.
ip The name Fisherman's Island was coined md' by expats because most of the men of the Villageearn an income from fishing and ce supplying the local market, especially ·e. Koki,with fresh seafood. In fact, on a ust recent snorkelling trip, we were lucky to encounter a boat-load of fishermen about to head in to the market with their produce, and we bought their entire catch of painted th crays, eels, octopus and other small fish Whichwere threaded on a long string kept 5ers,in the water for freshness.
Along the way was evidence of other income generating activities. Someone had been stockpiling shells, which Joel said would be put in 10kg bags to be sold on the mainland for crushing into lime, the essential accompaniment for buai or betelnut. Stacks of glass tanks and PVC pipes were mementos of a failed aquariu1f fish project that had been run for a few years by an enterprising American. Nearby, were two concrete slabs, evidence of the first houses to be built on the island, which started off with 20 settlers from the mainland. The last census, several years ago, put the population at around a thousand with about a hundred and six houses. There is no fresh water supply on the island.
Twenty or thirty open boats go across to PO Moresby on a weekly basis and return lade with drums of water for the people to use.
In the wet season, tank water is gathered from the houses with iron roofs and guttering.
On the outskirts of the village were a few local campers in tents on the beach. Joel explained that these were related people from the village across the waterway who came from time to time to fish. Nearby, was an open sided shed which could apparently be used for larger camping groups.
Soon,we left the sand behind and the low-lymg reef island became a grassy moonscape, littered with limestone rocks as reminders of its origins. Some had been sculpted into grotesquely beautiful s~apes over time by the weather. In this Wlndswept landscape we encountered a local woman returning with a big bilum of wood collected from the south side shoreline.
Here and there rusting remnants of aeroplane engines and a couple of crumbling stone buildings lay testimony : th e part the little island played during orld War Two. Amongst the rocks at the western end is a cleared airstrip used tod ' ay only by helicopters from time to time and during a daring attempted bank robbery some years back.
~out half way along the island, we veered ;hi and were delighted to find picturesque, te sandy beaches along the southern coastline along which we walked.
Pand anus trees afforded us some shade ~ nd beached nautilus shells intrigued o~ is:opean contin~ent. Other tiny, rocky ts off shore with sandy beaches of their own are home to nesting turtles.
By this time, the sun was high, we'd been walking for an hour-and-a-half and some of us were keen to reach our target point for a swim. Although the palms beckoned us from not far away, we couldn't cross the mangrove swamp in between and had to skirt around it and walk along the lovely western end of the island.
With brilliant white sand all around, magical water and the mainland coast on the near horizon, fishermen arriving in their banana boats, children and dogs playing in the water and the smell of a sizzling BBQ, you had to ask yourself, "Who'd want to be anywhere else?" •
As we neared our gorgeous destination, we saw that a mini village of flimsy huts had been erected. Apparently they were temporary "asylum seekers" from a coastal village not far away where recently the Highlands' politician Peter Waieng had been murdered. The people were very afraid of 'payback' action against the villagers and had come across to live here while investigations and prosecutions continue.
Finally, the POMSACboat came into sight and we thankfully tossed in our packs, shed some clothes and plunged into the cooling aqua waters. With brilliant white sand all around, magical water and the mainland coast on the near horizon, fishermen arriving in their banana boats, children and dogs playing in the water and the smell of a sizzling BBQ,you had to ask yourself, "Who'd want to be anywhere else?"
"This is all my land," said Joel proudly. At 28, he's an enterprising young man. He spent about 10 years living in England while his father studied there. He's quite keen to promote overnight camping and barbecuing trips to the island and mentioned a ball park figure of about K150/ person. It would be well worth having a night or two away on this peaceful island and you can reach Joel to arrange • camping trips on +675 7004 5788. V
BY KEN HOPPEN
One of the things about diving in different locations is that each location tends to have its own defining feature.
It would definitely be unfair to say that Lig~thouseJake. Close to a small rock on Kavieng is only a location to go and dive Whichsits a channel light, this Jake sits World War II plane wrecks, but at the sa!llljright in about 18 metres of water on a time, the variety of these plane wrecks in s ty/sandybottom. such a small area is fascinating. Thesepl · anes were two-man reconnaissance Kavieng was for a time one of the largest flanes,occasional fighter planes, light and most important Japanese air and navad0 ~ers and a large part of the Japanese bases during the Pacific War, and hence 0 ITUnancein the early stages of the war. the skies above this beautiful tropical ThisJake till h th d kin di s as ere sunmar gs para se saw more than their farr share on the win d 11 f bull t 1 th of devastation. This is now reflected in th€fuselage gs an ro s O e s a ong e waters around this northern Papua New • Guinea location. Nearerthe shore, the Reef Jake is in 12 rnetresof water and it's possible for Several aeroplanes are regularly dived cam on and others occasionally providing a d petent snorkellers to follow the reef 0 wnto this fairly intact wreck. smorgasbord of ch01cesfor scuba divers who find these relatively small wrecks a Thisis the best wreck to sit in for photos, very personal and interesting reminder ofthoughwatch where you put your legs, all time not long past. ofthese wrecks are home to lionfish and , , d l~orpionfishand a close encounter with Three Japanese Jake seaplanes are faun ettherofth b • uld d il 1 . . ese eaunes wo ten to spo c ose to the harbour, Just a few mmutes ¼nothe rf t h lid boat ride from Nusa Island Resort where I rwise pe ec O ay. was staying. A.third Upside-down Jake lies not too far lWay,12 metres deep, with an intact bomb The deepest of these and probably the itillload d - •t t b one in the best condition is known as the e m 1 s s orage ay.
Bigger and better is to come. The scattered remains of a Carolina seaplane lie in 10 metres near Nusa Island. Fairly broken up, the large engines are the most prominent part of this wreck.
Largest, however, is a B-25 Mitchell bomber. This USAFmedium bomber was a mainstay of the Allied airforce during the war and this one was shot down as it was attacking the airport here.
It lies in 12 metres of water near some mangroves, not an area known for its high water clarity unfortunately, but it is still a magnificent sight in the 5-10 metres of water that is generally found here.
The two motors were torn off on landing and lie about 30 metres in front of the main fuselage. The wings, main body and twin tails are intact, though the cockpit area was badly torn apart on impact.
The pilot's seat remains prominent as does the aft rotating gun that is located two thirds of the way towards the rear of the plane on the top side. This really is a remarkable monument to the memory of those that fought in the war.
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Clown anemonefish.
Apparently, most of the airmen who survived this crash, managed to make their way to a nearby island and evade the many Japanese soldiers in the area. They were picked up a couple of days later by a Carolina floatplane, an amazing story in itself.
The most spectacular wreck here though is a Japanese 'Pete' biplane, known as 'Deep Pete'. As suggested by its name, it lies 40 metres down near Nusa Island, on a flat, sandy bottom, all on its own.
The visibility here is spectacular, usually more than 30 metres, and this wreck attracts a lot offish life. Following the
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anchor line down, it is only a few metres on its wings. For a small plane that has now been in the water for about swim below the surface before the outline seventyyears, it is in remarkably good shape and would have to rank in the of the plane is visible below. top five dives in PNG.
Schools of snapper and sweetlips hide the Don'tthink that this sunken squadron is the only reason to come and plane from view, and lionfish hunt the visit Kavieng;there is a lot more here to offer with dives of the standard smaller fish that hide in the superstructure of the world class Albatross Passage; walks around World War Two sites; Th' d ubl d 1 li 'd d accommodation of a high standard at Nusa Island Resort; and much, ids O feth-wmge11P ane es 1:1PSti11 1 e 0ib~Imuch,more! But still the plane wrecks are a highlight! an one o e sma pontoons 1s s vis
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OtO[:T"U(lhy' ageis,of telnut
Papua New Guinea is a photographic hub - a treasure-trove of natural scenic beauty, brilliance of cultures, exotic flora and fauna, underwater shine and war relics.
Without doubt, every traveller who has visited here equipped with a camera will attest to the richness of photographic opportunities right throughout the country.
Websites, blogs, magazines, books and official archival sites spill evidence of a country rich with wonders worth recording as far back as the 1800s.
Hundreds of thousands more of such imagery reside on computers and memory devices in homes right throughout the world, snapped by amateur photographers keen on sharing their Papua New Guinean experiences with family, friends and colleagues of a country that some have come to dub as one of the last unknowns on earth.
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BYGRACEMARJlas tr bird
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The country possesses some of the most e H
contrasting natural scenery found anywhere - trf lie the white sandy beach atolls and spectacular ree~an to the tropical rainforest mountainous terrain to o0~ river flood plains. befo
When it comes to culture, PNG has it all, givenio,0 800 plus languages and differences in tradition~c~i practices and customs throughout the country, h1 1 This variety comes flooding through during 'the staged shows and even in ordinary everyday lihu the lens will always find something interestinS:oun capture. lhot
FLORAAND FAUNATOO ABOUND vor1 ihot
"The country is home to an impressive variety oil]. exotic birds, including virtually all of the known ais species of the Bird of Paradise and it is blessed 011 n with more kinds of orchids than any other :ail country," says one website dedicated to promotin'er travel to PNG. lid.
.-The country's tourism promotion website 5~marises it this way: "Papua New ,.Gumeais full of interesting attractions, magnificentnatural scenery, and diverse .-cultural heritage."
Jt goeson to list holiday activities such s trekking, cruising, surfing, fishing, birdwatching,diving and snorkelling, Wh_ite-waterrafting, kayaking, visiting war _ fielics or attending stage cultural shows.
ree~anya first-time traveller has been known 1 totoovershoot rolls of film (in the days beforethe advent of digital camera) at one ·en~o,overwhelmed as they were with the :ioV~chnessof opportunity and vividness of cry.Ubjectmatter.
iThe variety in photographic subject here huge," says Rocky Roe, arguably the ing'o ' Untry's leading and most successful ihotographer,who in 1976 abandoned Vorkingfor a mine to concentrate fully on /hotography.
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wna1seNangoi, former editor of one of the d 0Untry's two daily newspapers, sings 1taises of PNG: "It is quite easy here and 0 Je People are excellent subjects, friendly nctnot demanding of payment or tips.
During my 27 years working for the (newspaper), I have seen and handled some very impressive images taken here in this country."
For the traveller to Papua New Guinea, arriving without a camera would be almost unthinkable, and for the novice amateur photographer spending some time in the country and keen on improving photography skills, a group is now in existence providing workshops and encouraging photography for all enthuiasts both national and expatriate.
The Photographic Association of PNG, born some years ago among like-minded individuals keen on improving and showcasing their photography, has become such a venue.
"Papua New Guinea has everything to offer the photographer, and our aim is to get as many people as possible interested and engaging in photography - even those in possession of a mere mobile phone camera," says Luke Cox, president of the PAPNG.
Besides hosting monthly workshops to its growing multinational membership, PAPNGnow runs annual competitions open
to anyone interested in submitting their photographs of Papua New Guinea.
2013 is the third year images of PNG have gone on exhibition and as submissions increase, so is the variety in subject matter and field of entry.
This year's competition saw up to 600 photographs submitted when the 2013 competition was opened in July this year to both members and non-members alike, with a shortlist down to 40 and the final selection of the three most aesthetic images of PNG drawn recently.
A PNG-based Filipina graphic-artist and two Papua New Guineans (one a policeman) took out the top prizes - a Kl0,000 Nikon camera; Air Niugini ticket to destination of the winner's choice; and a laptop computer.
Maureen Santos' winning 'street photography' image is of a betelnut vendor in Port Moresby; Barry Sangkol's stunning photograph of rural women near Mt Kare covered in mud and balancing panning dishes on their head, shot on his mobile phone camera. The third winning photograph was shot on a pocket digital camera of a woman dancing at a show.
"With the saturation of mobile phones and their capabilities to also capture images, photography is now open to all, and photographing images of Papua New Guinea can now be undertaken by everyone," continues Cox.He is pretty pleased with the interest shown so far, both in terms of entries and sponsorship of the competition.
For the 2013 competition, 16 companies gave an encouraging hand - Nikon, Cool Stuff, Vision City,Bank South Pacific, Air Niugini, Theodist, Star Office Works, Comserv, RH Hypermarket and The Fane Shop are just some of them.
"Travel and photography are synonymous, and as a destination, Papua New Guinea has both to offer the traveller. As the national carrier, we have worked at encouraging one; now, we'd like to promote both," says Corporate Affairs Manager, Eva Ami, explaining Air Niugini's support to the PAPNGcompetition.
Meanwhile, Papua New Guinea steams ahead in all its glorious natural and cultural splendour for all to behold - and capture on camera too - the choice is yours.
"Travel and photography are synonymous and as a destination, Papu New Guinea has both to offer the traveller. As the national carrier, w have worked at encouraging one; now, we'd like to promote both," says Corporate Affairs Manager, Eva Arni, explaining Air Niugini's support to the PAPNG competition.
BYGIULIANADOINO
With a hot pink fascinator sitting atop her neat short Afro, one would have thought she was in the wrong place at the wrong time.
Melbourne Cup was still two weeks away, the venue was the State Function Room, Parliament House, and the time was 7.20pm on Thursday October 24, 2013. The occasion was the Pride of PNGAwards night and Martella Kuman from Simbu Province had just made a grand entrance.
Martella is an amazing woman. Her story is one for the books. From a cleaner earning K14 a month in the mid-1970s, she has become a well-respected nurse administrator in her home province, and is already on her way to completing a Master's programme at the Divine Word University in Madang.
Martella is this year's winner of Education/ Role Model Award, one of six prestigious honours bestowed upon women in the City Pharmacy Limited's flagship Pride of PNG Awards.
For the past seven years, the medals have Buti been awarded annually for the categories was of Education/Role Model, Bravery and to sc Courage, Community Spirit, Care & dog1 Compassion, Environment and Young PNGDipl1 retm
These awards are a system of Pari encouragement and empowerment for 0ffic women. It is a jewel in the crown as it is a platform for celebrating the contribution Whil made to communities in PNG by unsung com1 heroes. CPL(City Pharmacy Limited) enro continues to support the winners and Dip!i their organisations well after the awards She, presentation. PNG
Every year hundreds of women Scie1 prog Bact are nominated by their peers and communities and a stringent process is followed to make a final selection. The For! winners are announced at the Parliament than Function Room by the Patron of the so,sl awards, His Excellency the Governor toco General. This year 422 nominations were Divil received. that
The reason why Martella stood out as this end year's winner for the Education/Role Modtworl award is her determination to improve he worl life and that of those around her, through mhi education. mod
From Pompimeri village in the Kundiawa th e Gembogl District, she dropped out of ~wa; primary school in 1972 because her marl<l ovi were too low to continue to high school. N 1 qua] one to give up, she left home in search of one work and a better life. Her
Her six years of primary education had esco unravelled a whole new world of learning Juli.pa a world which held so much promise. mt 1 OW!
With her grade 6 certificate, she set off on toer quest firstly to see what job she could geti With Kundiawa. Gov1
She found employment as a cleaner, Was earning K14 monthly. She chanced upon she1 the opportunity to take up Correspondena thec Studies through the College Of External Studies in Kundiawa. Asa Cou1
For the next two years, Martella paid her in2( way through grades 7 and 8 with part of Prog her K14 monthly wage. heh,
A year later, while still employed as a Com cleaner, she enrolled as a nurse aid, the For1 equivalent of a community health worker Wor] today, and graduated in 1975. Won byu
That year was special for Martella and aimi as she basked in the warmth of an bear independent PNG, she also took comfort r an~ in knowing that her life as a cleaner was strai over, she was now a graduate nurse aid, (Ve employed in the province's biggest heal~ ,byt institution, the Kundiawa General Hosp1t8 0r:
Over the next 13 years, Martella dutifully Mat went about her job, finding love, marryinland1 raising children and juggling her medical and career.
'e Butshe was not content and knew there !S wassomething she still had to do - go back to school.In 1988, Martella enrolled to dogrades 9 and 10. In 1993, she got her ~GDiplomain Nursing in Goroka. Martella returned to Kundiawa and was sent to the Pariand Wandi rural health centres as Officerin Charge.
a
n WhileMatella worked, she matriculated, completinggrades 11 and 12 and in 2002, enrolledat the University of Goroka for a Diplomain Nursing Education.
5 Shealso enrolled at the University of PNG'sSchool of Medicine and Health Scienceunder its nursing administration programme,graduating in 2005 with Bachelor'sdegree in Nursing Education.
,nJForMartella,the journey she set off on more - than30 years ago was finally complete. Or so,she thought. She now has an opportunity tocompletea Master's programme at the •reD" • 1vmeWord University next year - proof thateducation and learning does not usendbecause one obtains a degree and is Jdl working.Martella is a testament to hard ht workand determination, a pillar of strength :h mher community and a wonderful role modelfor women everywhere.
,alTheWinner of the Bravery and Courage awardhas been recognised by the NCDC rl<lGovernorPowes Parkop for her leadership Ntqualitiesand her commitment to work in ,f oneof Port Moresby's infamous suburbs.
Hername is Mato Posu who was chosen to escortformer Australian Prime Minister ngJuliaGillard on a visit to Gerehu market 111Port Moresby this year. Mato is the toweringfigure that is leading the change Jn_ to create a safer city for women and girls ,n With· - m the Gerehu market community.
GovernorParkop first met Mato in 2008 and Wasimmediately impressed with the way ,n :e motivated the women and the people in no e cornrnunity to be agents of change.
~s a result, she was appointed Ward 0llncillor for Port Moresby North West ; 1112009. In this role, she advocates for rograrnrnes within the community on Cehalfof the National Capital District 0 IDmission.
Forthe last two years, Mato has been er Wokin • Wr g with Port Moresby Safer City for b omen and Girls programme coordinated Ythe United Nations. This programme ~lffisto strengthen the capabilities of duty t earers (local government, police, city 5 rangersand security guards) and build , ~~rategicpartnerships with rights holders tJib endors and patrons) to ensure policies, ,ita raws and budgets include the protection 0 Womenand girls.
!l'lato's role includes ensuring that vendors :al : nd Patrons are interacting harmoniously nctshe works closely with the newly
established Vendor Association and the Market Management Unit to ensure safety. Mato is looking forward to the new buildings and infrastructure being planned for Gerehu market, particularly the children's playground. Her dream is for the market to become a safe gathering place and be accessible to all citizens and visitors to Port Moresby.
The woman who runs the Buk Bilong Pikinini library at the Children's Ward of the Port Moresby General Hospital is a hardworking and kind-hearted individual named Nara Keti. She is the well-deserving winner of Care and Compassion award.
The Buk Bilong Pikinini Library is located in Ward 2CDat Papua New Guinea's largest hospital where children living with HIV/ AIDS,TB and malnutrition are treated. The library was opened in 2007. Ever since then, Nara has been providing the children an escape from their ailments. Along the way she opened her heart to the children and opened their young minds to a whole new world of stories and fantasies.
Her presence among the children also gives hope and peace to parents and guardians. She believes that God's grace and miracles manifest daily in the lives of the children. Nara says: "When a child smiles or is able to sit up or laugh, that is God's work".
The library is a beacon of light for children at the hospital. Nara keeps the library bright and cheerful, and finds interesting ways to put a smile on children who are unwell or have disabilities. She keeps the library clean, always helping children with handiwork and crafts to keep the young ones busy.
Giving her time tirelessly at the Buk Bilong Pikinini Library, Nara has created a space at the Port Moresby General Hospital where
sick children can find solace and parents and guardians can find peace. Despite being unwell herself, Nara's compassion is the true medicine that the children need. Her relentless portrayal of the importance of reading and the joy that reading can bring to sick children makes her a hero. When she reads, her heart beats in a rhythm that only a child can tune into.
The winner of the Community Spirit award is Ruby Matane, a counsellor, trainer and advocate for women's issues.
Based in East New Britain Province, she runs the Grace Counselling Services and provides temporary refuge for battered women. Her biggest achievement has been establishing an office that has helped over 5,000 women and children for six years.
With a vast experience in social issues and human rights, she has developed training materials for rural communities in the New Guinea Islands (NGO,assisting communities in the registration of incorporated land groups.
She has worked in partnership with environmental groups and law enforcement agencies in the NGI region. She continues to advocate and train women and men from across a broad spectrum of the community on issues of gender-based violence. She collates data for her province on sexual violence which is submitted for national documentation. One of her achievements was when she initiated a move to put a stop to village magistrates and elders on the islands of Duke of York, East New Britain, from imposing a charge of KlS on women who wore shorts or shirts. The men claimed such dress provoked rape. Ruby engaged a community-based organisation to put a stop to the penalty and allow freedom of movement and dress for women on the
islands.
The Environment award winner is Jennifer Baing-Waiko, a woman whose passion for the environment is as vast as her Markham plains in Morobe. Jennifer is a Dampi Dampi clanswoman of the Atzera people of the Markham Valley. She is of mixed PNG and New Zealand heritage; the daughter of a chief and PNG political veteran Andrew Baing, and a New Zealand mother Susan, a successful educational author and retired teacher.
Jennifer runs the Baing family agri-business on a cocoa farm in the fertile grassy plains of Markham with her husband Bau. They promote organic farming and the crops they grow and harvest are free from pesticides.
She also advocates the use oflocal fruits and vegetables in people's diets as part of healthy living. Jennifer believes that the protection of the environment now will make it sustainable for future generations.
Jennifer also manages her own non-profit organisation called SAVEPNG to promote healthy living through sustainable food and agricultural practices. Last year she contested PNG's national elections for the Markham Open seat.
She has a Bachelor of Applied Science (Fisheries) from the Australian Maritime College and previously worked as a marine research assistant in the oceans of Australia, Costa Rica and PNGbefore returning home to the Markham Valley.
Nineteen year-old Joanna Oala is the Young PNG award winner.
Joanna is the President of the Port Moresby Youth Adolescents Healtn Club, a programme of the Young Women's Christian Association (YWCA).The Port 72 PARADISE December-January 2014
Moresby Youth Adolescents Health Club focuses on advocating safe practices in sexual and r:eproductive health amongst youth in Port Moresby.
The workshops they conduct cover issues such as refraining from sex at an early age, avoidance of teen pregnancies, HIV and AIDS.The health club also uses media organizations, especially the radio, for its awareness programmes.
Joanna says discussions on sex are taboo within families and communities in PNG and the health club was an excellent vehicle to convey messages to her young peers.
Joanna's work with the club began when she attended Gordon Secondary School. She was the then President of her school's youth club which is an affiliate of the Port Moresby Youth Adolescents Health Club.
This young Hanuabada lass has shown maturity and leadership which she endeavours to nurture in order to be a leader in her community and country on1 day. For now, Joanna is studying at the University of PNG and aspires to be an economic analyst.
• The CPL Pride of PNG Awards is proudly_ supported by Air Niugini, Post Courier, PNG FM and EMTV. For details or to nominate someone, contact CPL Marketi Department on: Phone: +675 323-8468; Email: marketing@cpl.com.pg
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BYDIANAMCMANUS
If ever there was an uplifting story to be told, it is the story associated with the Ricochet Cafe in Waigani Central.
Supported by Peter and Lydia Kailap who voluntarily mentor the business, the cafe is the training ground for the youth of Port Moresby who have previously been involved in crime and were born and raised in settlements. Many of them have had no formal education and are not literate.
With a name like the Ricochet Cafe, it sounds like something out of the movie about the Wild West. However, the cafe is on the premises of the green Mutual Rumana Building (look for the Department of Education sign) next to the Maybank, not far from the Holiday Inn.
Its unimposing entry is through the underground parking entrance to the building and is not immediately obvious.
Once inside, the cafe shares a huge open space with another small food business. Ricochet at present is staffed by about nine young people, mostly male. They are taught
to prepare and cook food commercially, using Australian HACPPstandards of hygiene.
Both Peter and Lydia are amply qualified to teach these skills. He is a musician and hotel manager with decades of experience working in PNG.She is a qualified chef and accountant with over 30 years' experience, managing hotels and restaurants in Australia.
Getting the cafe up and running has been quite a challenge since the project is not sponsored or funded by any government department or aid organisation.
It had its beginnings almost two years ago in the back shelter of the Koki Market. Security was unreliable there and required staff to sleep over each night to protect the fridge and furniture. Also, the cafe couldn't attract a very wide customer range.
After a very unfortunate incident at the market, the cafe moved into a small shop at Hohola, which the team smartened up with a bamboo frontage and outdoor furniture.
Lyd1a'svery proud of her 'street kids' who are now young adults. She says she'd like to arrange a 'cook-off' between the Grand Papua Hotel, the Crowne Plaza and her team. "I reckon we'd beat them hands down," she says.
The project began to develop but still wasn't attracting the variety of customers it sought. Meanwhile, its catering service began to grow and the young people continued to learn stock-taking and stock control skills, basic accountancy skills, sales and marketing, customer service skills and the importance of honesty and respect.
As Lydia spoke with me, you could see the passion and dedication to the project written all over her. I was intrigued by the fact that she's an Australian woman and not working for any GO or NGO.
"How did you get to become involved in this?" I asked. Her reply was awe-inspiring. Her family had actually worked in PNG when she was about 11 years old. She'd been to visit friends in Madang in 2000 and then came to Port Moresby where, as she puts it, "I met a hot man". That man was Peter Kailap.
At the time, she was managing a big function centre in Brisbane but it wasn't long before she returned to PNGfor good around the end of 2003.
When new husband Peter took her to stay at his mother's house in Kaugere settlement in Port Moresby, it was a real eye opener. She lived in a tin shack with no water or electricity. Lydia saw the kids in the
settlement and how they lived; poorly fed on biscuits and cordial, maybe fish with rice a couple of times a week; poor hygiene; playing in the dirt with sores on them; no medical attention; no education; no loving parental guidance as we might understand it; and constant domestic violence.
That's when she and her husband decided to forgo the 'cushy' life in Australia and move into the settlement to try to do something for the kids. That was almost 10 years ago.
Establishing the cafe was always the original plan but one of her early projects was to help in the establishment of CUMA-PNG (the Children's University!) for some basic schooling for the settlement children. The idea was to catch the kids before they could become 'raskols'.
Living in the settlement brought her into contact with another, darker side of PNG family life; domestic violence she said is almost a regular occurrence in PNG.
When their eldest boy was about five, Peter went down to Australia for awhile, leaving Lydia alone in the settlement with their two little boys.
She says her street kids were wonderful. They moved in to protect and serve her and the children until Peter's return.
Rethinking the magnitude of what they
were facing, they realised there had to be
regular training and counselling involving life skills including gender equality, nonviolent conflict resolution, how to maintaU healthy and safe relationships, good parenting skills, and counselling for trauJll
that people suffer growing up in a very hard and violent environment.
Enter Professor Judy Atkinson of the Southern Cross University in New South Wales, Australia, with whom the Kailaps have had a long and fruitful association.
Thus, alongside their attempts to offer economic security and a future for the Kaugere settlement street kids, was born a much broader and more far reaching plan to change what seems to be a nationi culture of family violence.
Peter is now the vice president ofYurni Kirap (meaning "Let's all Arise"), formerlY known as Women Arise, Port Moresby.
To try and provide some nurturing care over the years, Lydia established Papua New Guineans Against Domestic Violence on Facebook about three years ago. Within three days, there were s,ooO members.
Today, membership is around 11,000. out of cyberspace, this thrust has translated itself into The PNG Healing Foundation.
ProfessorAtkinson has been here on several occasions running workshops to try and "cure the cancer" as Lydia puts it. Their efforts were highly influential in organisingthe National Haus Krai event which occurred earlier this year.
Lydiais very much the impetus behind ,,, familyviolence community healing workshops.The end of October was the first oneheld totally by Papua New Guineans, ,,, involvingmembers of the Taurama Army Barracksarea, with six facilitators trained by Professor Atkinson. Lydia says she knowsfrom personal experience that these workshops do work.
TheRicochetCafe at present is barely fundingitself and faces a mammoth K8,000/ monthrental agreement which doesn't even givethem exclusive rights of tenure. The landlordcontinues to sub-lease the property forlarge functions, in which case, the Street Kidshave to pack up the cafe and sleep on the site for security of the cafe possessions.
Lydiasays the bulk of their income is from the catering branch of their business, with the boys sometimes working all through their Friday nights preparing dishes for functionssuch as the recent Post Courier ChristmasParty for 200 people.
Theirpremises is capable of seating about lSOpeople at a time and at times they
appeal to the public for their support with delivery and catering items.
There is no room hire for functions and organisers need to arrange for their own bar. A very nice menu, advertising "five star food at two star prices" is available.
The cafe itself offers three categories of food: Fabulous, Incredible and Over the Top. Fabulous includes home-made lasagne served with chips and salad for K18.
Incredible includes roast beef with baked vegetables, steamed vegetables and pan gravy for K25 and at K45, you can have yummy Over the Top which offers dishes like chicken breast pocketed with avocado, camembert and pistachio nuts, baked and topped with hollandaise sauce, accompanied by garlic mash and crisp, steamed vegetables or salad.
Buffet lunches are also available and cakes for special occasions. For functions, there is a variety of platters and delicious finger foods.
Lydia's very proud of her 'street kids' who are now young adults. She says she'd like to arrange a "cook-off" between the Grand Papua Hotel, the Crowne Plaza and her team.
"I reckon we'd beat them hands down," she says. As well as the Ricochet Cafe, the
Kailaps have supported another venture, a little "tuckerbox" (hole in the wall shop) in Frangipani Street, Hohola. There are two ex-settlement people there. One of them is Peter's brother, who became disillusioned with his life of petty crime and consequent incarcerations.
He came to them, wanting to turn his life around, so Lydia and Peter provided the capital for the enterprise called "Come and Get It 24/7". The little business now makes their wages, pays the overheads and keeps two men gainfully employed.
This brings us back to the name Ricochet. Loosely,the definition is "to rebound from a surface after striking it with a glancing blow".
This basically encapsulates the whole idea of people bouncing around from one adverse circumstance to another, but more essentially, rebounding in a positive way from the blows that life can deal.
Is this a worthy cause or what? If you'd like to support these young people in their first business, you might consider using their services for your own catering requirements.
You can hold your function at the Ricochet Cafe or have them cater for it at the location of your choice. Open your heart and chequebook and phone +675 7022 3277 .,.. to make a booking.
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BY LANCE SEETO
The origins of festive foods can be trace/ way back to European medieval histor a time of gods, kingdoms, mythology and superstition.
The rich dined on offerings of majestic, rare peacocks, swans and geese stuffed with spices and fruits. It wasn't until the 16th century that the inexpensive turkey was introduced to Europe that it rose in popularity as a Chrisuna! feast food.
Christmas pudding and mince pies originally contained chopped beef and mutton, along with raisins, currants, prunes, wine and mixed spices. By the 17th century, the meat had disappeared but the tradition of putting coins inside the cake for good luck has survived for hundreds of years.
~he SYJllboliccandy cane was thought to ave been created by a German choirmaster 1670 who handed them out to his young lng~rsto keep them quiet during long church services.
~he shape of the traditional candy cane is ought to represent a shepherd's crook, but lllany also say that it is the letter "J" for Jesus ~ th the red colour stripe symbolising his 00 d sacrifice.
;eak~sof all shapes and sizes have been part of ~~ve holiday rituals long before Christmas. t cient cooks prepared sweet baked goods r~ ~ark significant occasions. Many of these g" cipes and ingredients such as cinnamon, lnger, black pepper almonds dried fruits Were. ' introduced to Europe in the Middle Ages.
The symbolic candy cane was thought to have been created by a German choirmaster in 1670 who handed them out to his young singers to keep them quiet during long church services.
They were highly prized and quickly incorporated into European baked goods. Christmas cookies, as we know them today, trace their roots to Medieval European recipes, with Dutch and German settlers introducing cookie cutters, decorative moulds and the gingerbread man to America.
Today, the symbolism of festive food in Western culture continues even though many ofus have forgotten why.
If there is one ancient culture that has symbolised festive foods for even longer, it is the Chinese. Although Westerners sometimes balk at the sight of an entire fish lying on a plate with its eyeballs staring back at you, in China, a fish served whole is a symbol of prosperity.
In fact at a banquet, it is customary to serve the whole fish last, pointed toward the guest of honour. Fish also has symbolic significance because the Chinese word for fish, yu, sounds like the word for riches or abundance, and it is believed that eating fish will help your wishes come true in the year to come.
If you are ever invited to a Chinese wedding banquet, don't be surprised to spot a mouth watering platter of Peking or Beijing duck. Ducks represent fidelity in Chinese culture.
Also, red dishes are featured at weddings as red is the colour of happiness. Chicken forms part of the symbolism of the dragon and phoenix, as it closely resembles those mythical creatures with its talons and crest.
At a Chinese wedding, chicken feet, sometimes referred to as phoenix feet, are often
served with dragon foods such as lobster. Chicken is also popular at Chinese New Year, symbolising a good marriage and the coming together of families as serving the bird whole emphasises family unity.
Noodles are also a symbol of longevity in Chinese culture. They are as much a part of a Chinese birthday celebration as a birthday cake with lit candles is in many countries. As noodles symbolise long life, it is considered very unlucky to cut up a strand.
Pacific Islanders are known for their love of enormous feasts. They hold feasts to celebrate saints' days, births, marriages, and local events such as the crowning of a new chief. There are also funeral feasts to mourn and celebrate one's life.
Many islanders are Christians and celebrate the major Christian holidays, including Christmas and Easter. Some Catholics fast during the day or give up certain foods for Lent. Buddhism and Hinduism are also found in the region.
Fiji,which has a large Indian population, observes Hindu festivals with mithai milk sweets eaten on Diwali, the Hindu New Year.
In the region's Melanesian culture, it is the pig that is most revered as a festive food. Pigs have long held great symbolic importance for the people of the Melanesian islands as pig ownership conveys status, wealth, and informal power. Within those cashless societies, the pig was the sole medium to barter and trade, so the more pigs a great chief would have, the higher his social standing and political rank.
Despiteadopting Christianity centuries ago, ancient symbolic foodsstill hold much significance for a South Seas Christmas.
Atypical Pacific Islands festive menu is filled with roast suckling pig,whole chicken, taro steamed in coconutmilk, yams and sweet potato, steamed crabs, fish marinated in lime and coconut and finished with coconutand taro wrapped in banana leaves.And all gluten and dairy-free.
Happy festive season to all; eat, • drink and be merry! U
Pacific Islanders are known for their love of enormous feasts. They hold feasts to celebrate saints' days, births, marriages and local events such as the crowning of a new chief. There are also funeral feasts to mourn and celebrate one's life.
• Lance Seeto is an awardwinning international food writer, author, television presenter and chef based on Castaway Island, Fiji. His adventure cooking TV series Taste of Paradise: the Foods of Life is telecast across the South Pacific and Papua New Guinea.
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eeding wild creatures of any sort can often cause problems with many wildlife groups that in their own way are there to help protect wildlife of every sort. However there are definitely times where the feeding is better than the alternative.
Up until a few years ago, Tan-awan, a small town about twenty kilometres south of Oslob, in the southern sector of Cebu, in the Philippines, was known as the place to go if you wanted to take photos of whale sharks being slaughtered on the beach as the local fishermen prepared them for market.
Not a pretty thought, nor a pretty picture for that matter.
Finally, a thought was planted and now the fishermen have developed a business where they feed the same whale sharks they once hunted in the small bay which was once their end.
Touristscome from far and wide to view these, the largest fish of all, from canoes, and even to snorkel and dive with them. Thisis simply an amazing sight even for the saltiest of ocean-going mariners.
The small bay is roped off by floats, ensuring that any boat traffic does not get too close to the swimmers or to the surfacing whale sharks.
Three groups of fishermen and their boats are easily discerned by colours, with red, blue and green groups all being there to ensure the safety of both fish and human, make sure each shark gets its share of the shrimps on offer, and ensure the turnover of the groups is timely and smooth.
It is possible to just watch from one of the small boats here, or snorkel or scuba dive if Yourskills permit.
Whichever you choose you will have a close-up encounter to remember, as the Whalesharks approach the boats in a calm, almost serene, manner in order to get their food reward.
Snorkellers and divers are asked not to approach the sharks within three metres, th_oughit is almost impossible to comply ~th this regulation as the whale sharks Willapproach you closer than this.
Often in getting out of the way of the whale shark you are trying to dodge, you are getting closer to one that you probably have not even seen.
Our group of fishermen had eight or nine whale sharks underneath them and I can only imagine that the other two groups had a similar number, which made for an amazing number of whale sharks in a small area.
The whale shark hovers with its mouth just below the surface, hoovering the prawns_out of the water. Below it is a remora, a hitchhiker that hopes for free meals from the whale sharks scraps.
Touching the whale sharks is definitely forbidden, though they will sometimes touch you.
There are several reasons for this, one being that you definitely don't want to spook or frighten a fish in close proximity that weighs at least several tonnes.
Another is that it really isn't good for the whale sharks. Their skin has a thin covering of mucus on it and hand or skin contact with us can break that mucus covering, leaving for a while a patch that is susceptible to parasites and sores.
Often fish that have been patted have large bumps on those places, but here in these waters, those bumps are noticeably absent, testimony to both the strictness of the fishermen and the common sense of the swimmers.
Encounters are limited in time to about half-an-hour for snorkellers and a little more for divers.
Our group of fishermen had eight or nine whale sharks underneath them and I can only imagine that the other two groups had a similar number, which made for an amazing number of whale sharks in a small area.
They all seemed to be small males from my observations between about seven and eleven metres long.
Not yet fertile at this length, it is hard to imagine them as just feisty teenagers. Adult whale sharks are rarely observed and grow to eighteen metres in length.
These massive fish are basically huge oceall vacuum cleaners who strain the water through their gills to remove the plankton, krill and small fish ready to be consumed. One of their normal feeding tactics is to swim with their head at the surface, tail down, hovering the surface as they swim slowly around, and that is mirrored with what they are doing here.
If you are qualified, a scuba dive here is a must. Go down to the bottom of the bay and watch the commotion happen above you.
Business is springing up around this unusual event with day trips coming down from Cebu (about a three-hour drive each way), as well as guesthouses and souvenir shops occurring on the beach.
A nearby village has been enlisted to fish for prawns that are fed to the whale sharks, ensuring the income is spread over a wider area.
It is now far more economically important to ensure the whale sharks here are protected than to have the fishermen catch them. Surely, this is a win-win situation.
The fishermen start feeding the sharks here every mo rning at around 6am, and finish their day between 11am and 1pm depending on the number of tourists and the time of year. The sharks then have the other eighteen hours of the day to swim around the area and are often being seen passing the dive resorts that dot the coastline of Cebu.
They do not always stay at the feed either with the tagged whale sharks being observed many days swimming away. New sharks occasionally arrive too. One such shark came on my second day here. Knowing there was food around and the other sharks were getting it but not knowing how, it swam around the bottom, slowly getting frustrated until it came up to me, opened its mouth, and basically said "FEEDME" in no uncertain terms. (I can only assume that it saw my camera as something unusual and decided it was worth investigating).
I then proceeded to take photos while backing away and basically taking my whale shark for a swim as it followed me.
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Acouple of fishermen on the surface did ask me to not hassle the whale sharks, (Did theysee me swimming backwards??), until a biologistin the water explained to them and to me that it was a new shark learning the ropes. Madesense!
Ifyou decide to spend more than one day here, SumilonIsland is just off the coast, a short seven-minute boat ride from the whale sharks and is the best accommodation in the area.
Put this place on your list of things to do. It is not quite a totally wild encounter but the numbers and proximity of these, the largest ofall of our ocean's fish, will make this an encounter that you will remember for the -4i. rest of your life.
Your one stop lifting solutio
Come see Bali - it is a land of retreats, hideaway beaches, parties, fire rockets, scooters, massage parlours, beers, food, traffic and travellers from all around the world.
When one flies into Denpasar Airport, that's when the crazy begins. A constant barrage of planes from all over the world, filled to the max with people, some wanting Ki to party, others to relax on the beaches of bi Bali. 01 St,
Get your visa on arrival for one month, then pass through immigration and attempt Sl to collect your bags. But the chaos does ar work, few bags are lost and people are on th the move. Taxis, private cars, hotel coaches Iii await to take you where you want to go. Sr
BYSTEPHENRAE
Kuta Beach is the main beach close to the airport where many first-timers go. Gangs of guys, groups of ladies, families the single traveller navigate the place with bright lights, a wild nightclub strip and restaurants at every turn and the shopping's incredible. With miles of storefronts, huge shopping centres and market places selling everything from Bali towels, hats, t-shirts, jewellery, furniture, carvings, sarongs and many more ...
Hawkers are at you from the start, but there is no need to be rude, a 'no thanks' is ar w. n n lo t.} e:x Tr Pr th Yo all that's needed. They're selling everything Fo and the beach bar boys offer shade, a seat and a cold drink anytime of the day as you take in the sea, sun and surf in Kuta. is de
Determine what you wart from Bali, ard then search the net for the more app opriate places. Kuta for fun ard party w1tr I ve music, beautiful local b1kni-clad girls dancing on bar tops with exotic shows on the main stage. Sky Garden, a four-level six bar CIL,b,has an environment to suit most tastes, and the young flock tre:-e 1ndroves to rock the right away.
Everyoneis friendly, they all want to sell and generally they open with, "where are Youfrom? Or, how long are you staying?" as their first two questions.
Determinewhat you want from Bali, anctthen search the net for the more appropriate places.
d,
tin8 Rutafor fun and party with live music, if beautiful local bikini-clad girls dancing on bar tops with exotic shows on the main stage.
rnpt SkyGarden, a four-level six bar club, has : envrronment to suit most tastes and n .e Youngflock there in droves to rock the 1es !tightaway.
Smanintimate live music clubs are there a~d if you want to sing or play the guitar ~th the band, you're encouraged to join. he Expresso Bar is always a great choice.
?e pa~ strip is only two hundred yards ong With small bars on the side streets.
Experience it...it's safe and great to see and eXperience.
Trafficin people, cars and scooters is ever :ese~t so be careful where y~u tread, ere s always something conung up behind You.Jump on a scooter to get where you •is Wantto go.
in8
ForKS,it gets you to most places and it is a funway to travel. If the scooter driver d is going too fast, tell hin1 and he will slow own.
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The surfing in Bali is widespread of course with incredible breaks around the island.
One can say surfers first discovered Bali in the sixties as they searched for new destinations to ride a wave. And waves are certainly there in Bali. Famous spots are Bingin, Balangan and Padang Padang.
Many people take up surfing lessons offered in Kuta with good 3 to 4--foot swells hitting the beach. In the afternoon at Kuta, the beach is packed with thousands of people, enjoying the company of friends, family and new found love as they walk and play at the water's edge.
Massage
Dining is an experience, Asian and Western cuisines, traditional dishes, plenty of seafood, noodles and a hamburger if you want it. Mickey Ds is there as well as KFCand Pizza Hut. Hard Rock Cafe lies on the main beach strip. And for a price, you can use the their pool in the day. The cafes and restaurants are slick and service just as good.
The food is great value, so eat up. Many have live music and the bands play a good mix of old time favourites and today's top hits. Ask the band to play a song. Slip them some cash and you'll have it.
Service is included in the cost of your restaurant bill plus tax. But it is always nice and well appreciated if you leave extra for the waiter or waitress. A little goes a long way and if you happen to return to that restaurant, you are always remembered from the thousands who visit there.
Ubud, about an hour and a half from Kuta, is an escape into the hills. Beautiful ' bungalows nestled in the tropical surrounds with that distinctive Asian architecture, small boutique hotels line the streets and once again plenty of shops, restaurants and markets to visit.
The is also the safari park where monkeys run wild and you buy bananas to feed them. They're not shy and will come and steal them from you. Worth a visit if you want to escape the chaos. Your hotel can sort out a driver and take you anywhere you want to go. Beaches to the south like Bingin and lliuwatu offer seclusion and have gorgeous water for swimming.
A thank you or welcoming gesture 1sa nod of the head and the clasping of hands. A simple nod on greeting with a smile gets you a long way, showing that yoJ know something oi=their culture
hotels are plentiful and easily searched on the netenabling Bali to offer that true escape. Exotic location, cliff tops hotels and villas.
The Bali religion is Hindu as opposed to the rest of country that is Muslim. A gentle religion and a gentle people. A thank you or welcoming gesture is a nod of the head and the clasping of hands. A simple nod on greeting with a smile gets you a long way, showing that you know something of their culture.
You can head to the harbour and catch and do a day-trip to the island of Nusa Lembongan and entertain yourself with snorkelling., paddling, submarine rides and banana trips.
Stay on the island and the craziness of Bali soon disappears. A really nice island with Bali's most famous volcano, Mount Agung, towering in the horizon as you enjoy a swim or food at the cafe.
Try lunch or dinner at Alum Nusa at Mushroom beach. The staff members are friendly and the food is great.
Accommodation ranges from expensive villas, bungalows, hotels, homestays and a backpackers hostel. Your price, your choice. Come to Bali with your partner, your friends or family, it's all here.
Check-out time is usually 12, but you can leave your bags safely at the hotel until you have to depart for the airport. Carry money with you at all times, you never know when you want to spend it. Fresh juices are always on order and a healthy start after a big night.
English is spoken by many, be it in the restaurants and shops but sometimes not so fluent. Talk slowly and clearly if you feel your message is not getting through and Tok Piksa doesn't work here. Keep that in mind, however, it is a conversation starter.
Enjoy your time in Bali for there is much to see and do. And for the people of Papua ~ew Guinea, it is well worth the '6ii. Journey.
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An historic Kuala Lumpur landmark is returned to its former glory, reviving the romantic jazz era of the 1930s. RODERICKEIMErelives a little of this great hotel's past.
Idare not move. My head rests reassuringly against the leather restraint while out of the corner of my eye, I can see the blade being sharpened to a samurai keenness. Then, with a deft hand reserved for practiced executioners, the lethal instrument is applied to my throat and drawn upward in a slick motion that removes only the offending follicles.
But Aras, my expert swordsman, is no Sweeney Todd. There's no blood, no serenades to homicide. The 30-minute Traditional Hot Towel Wet Shave is an entirely urbane experience and rrn revelling in it for just 75 ringgit (about US$25)
"I learned my craft in Iran," confides Aras with textbookperfect English, "then I worked in London before coming out to Asia - and here I am."
The Truefitt & Hill salon under the spa in the newly restored and re-opened Majestic Hotel is just a part of the total renaissance experience offered at this delightfully retro hotel. Butlers, barbers, barmen and chauffeurs make up the complement of staff at your beck-and-call when staying in one of the 47 classic colonial-style suites in the 'Majestic Wing'.
But the reborn hotel is not just about nostalgia and pre-war throwbacks to Empire. It's a clever mix of old and new, with 300 modern rooms in a totally new-build section, The Tower Wing, which looms above the august whitewashed walls of the original structure that first opened its doors on the 15th of August 1932.
Supervising the renovation of the old hllildingwas a labour of love for architect ZaidanTahir, a graduate of Texas Tech University,who was tasked by YTLHotels to bring it back to its former glory. Tahir has worked with YTLon other restoration projectsin the Cameron Highlands and Malacca.Coincidently, Tahir had fond memories of this iconic landmark from his collegedays when it housed the National ArtGallery.
"I enjoyed walking around appreciating the small details of the building, its style and architecture," he said, "we wanted to tnaintain the look and feel of the place, at the same time, give it a new life."
~he hybrid neo-classical/art deco Majestic as been through several incarnations in its 80 year history, not all of them happy.
In its heyday during the 1930s, the hotel catered to European guests and the local Well-to-dowith traditions like the 'Tea Dance'and 'Dinner Dance'. Even the rooftopgarden had a dance floor with seating for 350 guests. Modern inclusions such as hot and cold water, showers and sanitation were firsts for the fledgling alayan hospitality industry.
~t like so much of South-East Asia, T orld War II changed everything. phe.grand hotels like Hong Kong's enmsula and Singapore's Raffles were aucommandeered by the Japanese ~onquerors as military headquarters. 1 °too.The Majestic and it housed the t1Penal Army until war's end. Room 8 is said to be haunted by the ghost 0.fa Japanese officer who committed ritual suicide upon learning of Japan's
surrender.
In 1945, The Majestic resumed duties as a lavish hotel, but struggled to reclaim its place as Kuala Lumpur's (KL)pinnacle of style and grandeur. But perhaps it was the fact that the rooftop bar was used by the founders of UMNOto plan their independence from Great Britain that assisted in its preservation. By 1957, when the newly independent Malaysia came into being, The Majestic was past its prime and falling into disrepair. In 1977, it was almost lost for all time when a 22-storey high rise was planned for the site but, to their eternal
credit, the UMNOgovernment stepped in and acquired the building in 1983, fixing it with a heritage preservation order.
But by New Year 1983, the last melancholy guests were checking out and The Majestic became the National Art Gallery until 1998. For the next ten years, YTLHotels negotiated with the government and eventually received approval to redevelop the hotel under strict observance to heritage conditions. A new art gallery was built and The Majestic began its resurrection, formally reopening in December 2012.
A justifiably proud Tan Sri Dato (Dr) Francis Yeah Sock Ping, Managing Director of the YTLCorporation, said at the reopening: "It is a great honour to have been given the responsibility of restoring this national heritage to its former glory. We have painstakingly revived the exquisite neoclassical features in the Majestic Wing, the piece de resistance of the hotel. Our efforts have since earned the new Majestic Hotel Kuala Lumpur a coveted listing in The Leading Hotels of the World, the only hotel in Malaysia to have such an illustrious distinction and putting it in the company of hotels such as The Ritz in London and Le Bristol in Paris."
Today, the Majestic Wing is a marvellous tribute to the decadent '30s lifestyle and the jazz era. A talented quartet entertains in The Bar, their swinging tunes entertaining guests all the way from the Tea Lounge, past the Orchid Conservatory and into the Colonial Cafe, where sumptuous high teas are served.
"Our efforts have since earned the new Majestic Hotel Kuala Lumpur a coveted listing in The Leading Hotels of the World, the only hotel in Malaysia to have such an illustrious distinction and putting it in the company of hotels such as The Ritz in London and Le Bristol in Paris.'
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Adjacent to the original hilltop entrance is the Majestic Spa beneath which Aras and his gentleman's sanctuary reside. In The Smokehouse, you'll find Johnny, a true barman's barman. He knows every cocktail ever devised and can match you to one of his titillating concoctions in a blink. Mine is a whiskey sour "classic and reliable", Johnny tells me and I'm not about to correct him. Gentlemen may partake in cigars while playing billiards and sipping fine single malts. The only concession to contemporary values being they may now do so in the company ofladies.
Before I turn in for the night, I put my shoes out for a polish, hang a shirt to be pressed and send my breakfast order down to Lynn, the impeccably stylish assistant manager who supervises all aspects of the Majestic Wing. I could have Jay, my butler, run a bath or turn my quilt should I desire it. But I'm content with a wake-up call and English breakfast iJ1 my adjoining parlour before tackling the rigours of KL's retail domain. And that reminds me, I'll need a chauffeur for that. V
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Just short, fast ferry ride from Hong Kong will have you in the heart of Macau and a whole different world as RODERICKEIME experienced.
Their arms flail wildly while their feet Wi kick savagely at each other. Higher and th1 higher they go, 20 metres, 25 metres, Ph toward the dizzyingly high ceiling. an
The hero, in white of course, strikes the Sep sp, villain in the chest and he falls, arms lea and legs twirling, into the deep pool Bu below.
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The 2000-strong crowd gasp, then gasp ou again when the hero falls too. Some cu: stand to get a better look while others Ve: just cover their faces.
But don't worry, it's all part of the shOW Cl here at City of Dreams' spectacular Ev $250 million production, The House of fo1 Dancing Water, which plays to capacity to, crowds five nights per week. to
The award-winning 85-minute show, Co; lie which opened in 2010, has enthralled fo1 more than 2 million guests with its 80 performers who high dive, motorcycle M, jump, leap, contort and dance around, ftu in and on top of a 17-million litre pool co:
This awe-inspiring, super hi-tech sho-W ar1 is the glittering centrepiece of the a c integrated entertainment resort, City of tn, Dreams, which opened in June 2009. le~
• feet
Withsome 1400 guest rooms in international sporting calendar. ,rand three sprawling luxury hotels,
Macau Grand Prix complete the
Furthermore, the United Nations, ~es, Plusmore than 20 quality food through its cultural arm of UNESCO, and beverage venues and 175,000 recognised the very special . es the square feet of sparkling retail significance of the architectural space,there's almost no need to heritage of Macau by listing ·ms leavethe resort. the centre of the old city as a 101 World Heritage Site of cultural
Butin a city as rich in heritage and history as Macau, you'd be missing significance. gasp out on a wonderful sightseeing and
The imposing centrepiece is the ne Cu.J.turalexperience if you didn't preserved fa~ade of the Cathedral of hers Ventureout. Saint Paul.
:shOW 16th Century by the Jesuits, the
Built during the last decade of the
II Eventhough Macau is best known building was destroyed by fire in .se of for its rich Portuguese heritage, the Jacit)' toWn'smaritime history dates back 1835. to the 5th century and earlier when
Rainy days are plenty around coastal traders and fishermen used the middle of the year, a perfect ow, 1-ioiKeang, as it was then known, opportunity to take in any of illed ts 80 for resupply. Macau's superb museums.
cycle Macau's unusual European cultural
For MOP$25,you can buy a museum ,und, fusion has also spawned a range of pass for entry to the Grand Pr~ pool Colourfulcultural events including Museum, Wine Museum, Manttrne shoW arts, music and fireworks festivals, Museum, Lin Zexu Museum, a dragon boat regatta and a Museum of Art and Museum of :ity of lllarathon foot race. Golf and the Macau. See our list on page 22. 109. legendary Guia Motor Race and
And for a grand finale, if you want to outdo the brave high divers at The House of Dancing Water, you can strap yourself in for a 233-metre plunge off the Macau Tower in the world's highest commercial base jump. There's thrills aplenty in Macau. V
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The Hard Choices:
Before you arrive, grab your copy of Lonely Planet and do some homework. You'll quickly discover there are several paths available to you. For example;
• Chinese culture and cuisine.
• Portuguese architecture and history.
• Modern diversions: gaming, adr~nalin and night-dubbing.
• Peruse the list below and begin your shopping list of activities.
Macau Tower
Designed principally by Gordon Moller of CCMBECA,New Zealand, Macau Tower is one of the world's greatest city towers. At 338 metres, it is the 10th tallest in the world. Visitors can enjoy a scenic meal at the 360° Cafe and those with a yen for thrills can take the ultimate plunge with a 233-metre drop on the AJ Hackett Skyjump; one can climb the mast or walk the elevated platform. Not for the faint-hearted.
Guia Fortress Lighthouse and Chapel
One of several fortresses and barracks throughout Macau, the Guia was built between 1637-38, and occupies the top of Guia Hill, the highest point in Macau. Originally designed to defend the city from sea attacks, its position overlooking the entire city makes it one of the best observation posts.
Fisherman's Wharf
Located at Macau's Outer Harbour, this themed tourist district contains a dense assortment of restaurants, bars, nightclubs and retail establishments built to reflect Macau's original colonial style as well as drawing on other
maritime cultures and locations like Cape Town, Amsterdam and New Orleans.
St Paul's Crypt and Museum of Sacred Art
Built at the bottom end of the inner area of the St. Paul's ruins is this superb museum with a rich display of religious art and artefacts. It was built in the location of the chancellery of the ancient church which was destroyed by fire in 1835.
Maritime Museum
Adjacent to the A-Ma Shrine, this compact but beautifully detailed museum celebrates Macau's complex maritime history. The three floors are arranged like decks and include excellent displays of ancient explorers like Vasco da Gama and the great Ming Dynasty Admiral Cheng Ho, plus fascinating models and dioramas.
Grand Prix Museum
Assuage your motor racing urge with a visit to this museum which includes actual race cars, bikes and replicas along with memorabilia and souvenirs. Jump into the simulator for a race around the famous circuit.
The Museum of Macau
Located at the Monte Fort and facing St.Paul's ruins, the museum also occupies the ancient fortress built by the Jesuits at the beginning of the 17th Century. This museum is a wonderful introduction to the development of life and civilisation in and around Macau over the centuries.
First held in 1955, soon after the restoration of Formula One in Europe after its wartime hiatus, the Macau Grand Prix has evolved as arguably the most historic and significant Asian motor sport event.
If you arrive in Macau during Grand Prix, there will be little else going on as the entire city is consumed with this high octane carnival.
The United Nations recognised the very special significance of the architectural heritage of Macau by listing the centre of the old city as a World Heritage site of cultural significance.
The historic and cultural "branding" of old colonial Macau is perhaps best portrayed by the preserved fa~ade of the Cathedral of Saint Paul. Built during the last decade of the 16th Century by the Jesuits, the building was destroyed by fire in 1835 during a typhoon.
The proximity of the landmarks makes this expansive World Heritage site an engaging and vigorous self-guided walking tour that could easily occupy several days.
Apart from the cultural and historic significance of the port city, Macau is known worldwide for its gambling history which began with the Chinese workers and merchants who populated the growing city soon after the arrival of the Portuguese. Macau is now the highest-volume gambling centre in the world.
As with any Asian society, food plays a major role in Macau but its cuisine is flavoured by hundreds of years of multicultural influences Among the more popular Macanese dishes are African chicken grilled in peppers, Tacho (a robust stew of Chinese vegetables and different meats), Galinha Portuguesa (chicken cooked in an oven with potatoes, onions, egg and saffron), Linguad0 Macau (Macau sole fried and served with green salad) and Porco Balichao (Balichao pork). A popular dessert is the Jagra de ovos (sweet egg tart). Toe best sampling of these local specialties can be found at the unique Macanese style eateries dotting the island. Operated by Portuguese-speaking Europeafl descendants, these quaint little cafes and restaurants capture the essence of Macau perfectly- check them out along Rue Almirante Sergio and along the Praia Grande. Other cuisines can also be enjoyed widely in Macau, include excellent Cantonese fare, a variety of Western food, Japanese cuisine and ethnic Portuguese dishes.
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Sydney bridge aerial.
iewed from the rail of the ferry, the inlets and bays are crammed with a fleet of small ships bobbing around on their moorings and glinting in the sun-
There are boats, dinghies and yachts of all shapes and sizes and one could be forgiven for thinking that everyone in these obviously more affluent parts of Sydney has a vessel of some sort.
Having a safe mooring and harbour is what led to the discovery of Port Jackson, since in colonial times securing a port was a prerequisite for any settlement of foreign lands.
After Lieutenant James Cook mapped the east coast of Terra Australis and identified Botany Bay as a suitable place for settlement, Governor Arthur Phillip returned eighteen years later in 1788 with the First Fleet and decided that the next cove up the coast was iJI fact more suitable.
LBe established the first penal colony on the rockyforeshore of what he named Sydney Covein this huge natural harbour, in an area that is known today as The Rocks.
Ydn~yexists because of its strategic ocattonnext to this natural deepwater an~horage.So what better way to see this llniquebody of water than from its surface?
Onecan pay for sound-tracked and guided tours complete with stickers, but in fact the~eis no better or cheaper way than by takinga marine PMV- one of the cream and green ferries that depart regularly frornCircular Quay, nestled at the bottom end of the central business district.
SydneyFerries has operated since 1899 anctnow carries more than 14 million Passengers a year - tourists and those who are just commuting to work in the city - on one of their 8 routes to and from places s h , Uc as Taronga Zoo, Darling Harbour,
Manly and Bondi Beach. For the more elitist traveller, there are neat little water taxis that will take you wherever you might want to go, wharf to wharf.
Sydney Harbour, a drowned river valley, was just what the British Admiralty required, a quiet mooring sheltered from the southern Pacific Ocean.
It is 19 kilometres long from the North and South Heads that mark its entry into the Tasman Sea to the west where it finally morphs into the Parramatta River. It has a total of 240 kilometres of shoreline and contains 54 square kilometres of water.
The foreshore convict settlement rapidly grew into a town, then a city but one that still incorporates national parks, world heritage listed sites, significant sites marking long-term Aboriginal presence and magnificent hand-cut stone buildings from the period of convict labour and industry - a city shaped by its harbour. Now the commercial centre of Australia, Sydney has a population of more than 4 million souls.
The city has spread out north, south and west from the harbour into a myriad of suburbs, reserves, parklands and gardens - well-known to many from their favourite rugby league teams - Balmain, Manly and Parramatta spring to mind - and getting out onto the water is essential to get a real feel of the place from a marine perspective.
Various promontories with good views over the harbour have remained relatively untouched, such as the Domain, Royal Botanic Gardens and Hyde Park.
Other more elevated spots are encrusted with older homes and increasingly prestigious apartment developments from where the owners can luxuriate in fresh breezes and have the ability to look down at their yachts, no doubt moored in a marina berth below.
Some structures on the harbour foreshore arih·cons that symbolise Sydney in the eyes of e rest of the world - the shells of the Opara House adorning Bennelong Point and, of oourse, the 'Coathanger', the Harbour Brilige, constructed to join the business areas on the south shore to the more residential north shore in 1932.
The bridge once carried two tram lanes, two train tracks and six traffic lanes; the tram Jines were replaced by roadways which together with a cycleway and a footpath give it a width of 49 metres, making it one of the widest single span bridges in the world.
The more intrepid can, for a fee, walk across the structural girders atop the bridge arch with BridgeClimb, suitably attached by a harness to a guard rail to prevent collateral losses; being a wimp I took the soft option and strolled along the bridge footpath!
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Theview from the bridge provides some idea of themulti-bayed nature of the harbour and its surrounds, which, whilst having pockets of high densitytower blocks is still by and large low rise withresidential suburbs stretching to the horizon.
Onthe day, Circular Quay was host to the huge Rhapsodyof the Seas cruise liner which itself dwarfedmany of the colonial era buildings on the Rocksforeshore nearby.
Cruisingthe ferries one gets excellent views of placessuch as the colourful facade of Luna Park, sittingin Lavender Bay in the shadow of the north shoreHarbour Bridge pylon and the GovernorGeneral'sKirribilli House, surrounded by its gardens,opposite the Opera House.
1s AtPyrmont, Darling Harbour continues to develop withthe Sydney Aquarium and numerous shops and restaurants. Its Star Sydney Casino, second onlyto the Crown Casino in Melbourne, will soon haveto compete with a similar development, just acrossthe water at Barangaroo.
Thesandstone that underlies the city can be clearly seenall around the points and bays that make up the harbour, and in niche up-market suburbs Servicedby the regular ferries, some are named afterships that made up the 1787 First Fleet - such as Sirius, Supply, Scarborough and Alexander, Whilstothers like Queenscliff are named after beaches.The faster River Cats recognise famous Australiansportspeople such as Shane Gould, DawnFraser and Evonne Goolagong.
Once one takes the ferry to a suburb of choice, many places are just a short walk from the water, providing a chance to take in the views from a different direction or perhaps to just people watch!
The parks, gardens and public areas.are dotted with ancient and modern follies and art presentations sharing the environment with palms, birdlife and itinerant humans.
To entertain visitors, street performers are often to be found in these venues, playing their didgeridoos, flutes, guitar~ or othe~ instruments in the hope of a cam donation or two.
For the more adventurous, one can actually get wet in, on or by the harbour. Kayaks can be hired to paddle around to get absolute water level views, or sailing yachts are available for those with a more nautical bent.
Alternatively, you could just bring a towel
Onshoreperformers.
and sunbake on one of the Sydney beache 5 such as Bronte, Bondi or Freshwater.
One spot is Mrs Macquarie's chair, in fact a chunk of sandstone carved into a bench that sits at the end of Domain looking out over the harbour. It is an area that once had restricted access but now pulses with lunchtime power runners, loving couples, herds of giggling school children and picture-snapping tourists.
Others just take the time to lie back on the grass and look out either to the bridge and CBDto the west or the bustling naval wharves ofWoolloomooloo and Garden Island to the east and the ferries scurrying backwards and forward between their designated stops.
The rapid growth of the city and associated housing development prevented too many more bridges being planned or built, so ferries are still required for travel to inner city locations, but the two halves of Sydney have since 1992 been joined by the Harbour Tunnel that streams traffic through and under the city from places further to the north or south such as the airport and outer suburbs.
When visiting Sydney there is no better starting point than Circular Quay - a hub for ferries, open-top tourist buses, trains and cruise vessels.
Whilstyou won't see Skippy unless you travel to ;aronga Zoo, many other 'must-see' and possibly must-photograph' images of Sydney are within easywalking distance from here or one of the ferriesthat travel out from the ferry wharf.
Sowhen you next fly to Sydney on Am NruGINI, makea point to get down to the water and • havea look around this harbour city! U
0 Air Niugini flies to Sydney twice a weekFriday and Sunday.
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BY KEN HOPPEN
Sandy beaches, native animals in the wild, a wide range of fantastic accommodation, top class restaurants, watersports, activities for the kids, brilliant tours, and spectacular scenery. What more could you ask of anywhere?
Phillip Island is one of the major tourist destinations in Australia. By far the best known aspect of this small island happens every sunset, when the little penguins return to the beach at Summerland Bay from their day of fishing out at sea. Visitors to the Penguin Parade sit quietly as these, the smallest of the world's penguin species, begin to form groups out to sea. These groups, known as rafts, slowly make their way to the shore and are easily spooked as they look for any potential predators before finally coming up the sand in small groups. This is one of the few places in Australia where you can see this and it is the largest accessible colony on the mainland.
The wildlife encounters don't end there though. Phillip Island is known for its population of koalas and these cuddly marsupials can be seen on trees all over the island·
Forthose without the time to meander the manybush walks, the Koala Conservation Centreis the quick way to see koalas up closeand personal. Other nature parks on the island have a wide variety of Australian wildlife,such as wombats, kangaroos, wallabies, echidna and dingoes.
If you don't mind a boat trip, an hour steaming from Cowes sees you at Seal Rocks,home to about 20,000 Australian fur seals.
Withthe large boat towering over the island, the seals can be seen resting on the rocksand playing in the surf.
The trip out and back often has dolphin escorting the boat and the scenery around the Nobbies, in particular, is breathtaking. From the main island, at Seal Rocks Conservation Centre, you can view the seals from high powered telescopes, as well as view the Nobbies, explore rockpools, and on the right day, be amazed at a very powerful blowhole.
Churchill Island has a historic working farm to visit. Attached to Phillip Island by a small bridge, this island is home to Clydesdale horses and highland cattle.
Cape Woolamai has some of the best surfing in southern Australia, but be sure to swim here only between the flags when the Surf Lifesaving Club is open.
The walks along the cliffs here have some of the best views around the island, and watch for the wildlife at the side of the tracks! During the winter months look for southern right whales sheltering in the lee of the cape.
Cowes is the main town on the island, and home to most of the island's shops, restaurants, pubs and accommodation.
The beaches here are beautiful and safe for swimmers.
Philip Island is at the entrance to Western Port Bay, to the south-east of Melbourne, the capital city of mainland Australia's southernmost eastern state, Victoria.
A drive of about one and a half hours from the CBDfinds you at San Remo, where a bridge connects the mainland to the island. It takes about 20 minutes to drive from Newhaven, on the east side of the island, to Cowes on the west.
The island is about 26 kilometres long, and at most nine metres wide, and is a very popular destination over the summer months.
Natural attractions are not the only drawcard for the island. Both motorbike and car races are held here regularly, with the MotoGPheld in October being the highlight of the island's motorsport calendar.
CapeWoolamai is known for its scenic walks, great diving and spectacular sunsets.
A visually spectacular sporting event is held every January with contestants in the San Remo Channel Challenge swimming over the 550-metre gap between the mainland and the island, then running two kilometres back over the bridge to the starting line. The mass of swimmers in the water enter during the short slack water that occurs in the changing of the tide, streaming over the distance in a flurry of white water. Other triathlon and sporting events take place regularly on the island, as do Jazz Festivals and concerts for those more .._ musically minded.
'3 Air Niugini flies daily to Cairns and Brisbane; and two times a week to Sydney.
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BYJOHNWRIGHT
ust before sunset, when screeching parrots fuss and squabble over prime tree space along the Cairns foreshore, it can be one of life's simple delights to wander along the Esplanade boardwalk and soak up the beauty of this northern tropical city and its extravagant natural surroundings.
You are never far from birdsong in Cairns, or from the sight of the mountains that, to the west, drop abruptly to the coastal plain or, to the east, rise steeply as a dense,
luxuriant backdrop to the sliver of yachtspeckled water known as Trinity Inlet.
This city, flat and white and almost always hot, seems to have been made for colonialstyle rattan and plantation shutter; even before you reach it, as you drop towards the city airport, you take in the sharp contrasts of the colours of the reef and the mists or smoke over those brooding mountains and you think, Yes!this is where a tropical city should be; this is what it should look like.
Cairns has long been THE place in Australia for legions of domestic and international tourists to grab what might be called a (soft) wild nature experience ...the city, built on gold and timber and sugar, exists these days to give nature-focused tourists what they're looking for, and it delivers. Reef and rainforest trips - you can do both in a single day if you're in a hurry - are the local tourism industry's mainstay.
But the city itself, while retaining a laidback colonial charm, has worked in recent years to develop attractions of its own. The man-made swimming lagoon, a stone's throw from the CBDon the foreshore, has been a boon for the backpacker market especially, and the extension of the landscaped boardwalk from the Marlin Marina down along the western edge of Trinity Inlet to the Cruise Liner Terminal has proved an inspired move.
You find the best hotel views along here and towards its southern end, an attraction that gives Cairns another dimension - the city casino and its associated five-star accommodation house the Pullman Reef Hotel Casino.
I admit I'm not into casinos but a lot of tourists are, and with the inbound Chinese market accelerating and another casino included in a mammoth A$4.2 billion tourist development proposal for Yorkey's Knob, just north of Cairns, gambling seems set for a bright future
The Reef Casino isn't Monte Carlo nor could it be in its relaxed tropical location. Informality reigns in Cairns and the casino reflects it. The Pullman Hotels and Resorts group calls it a boutique casino, which might mean a lot of things, customdesigned for its patrons. Thus, it has a nightclub, a live entertainment venue, an award-winning restaurant (Tamarind), bars and cafes, as well as the pokies and gaming tables.
And on a recent visit, I enjoyed what the hotel claims to be Queensland's biggest LCDscreen (6.2m by 3.4m). If you like live sport, this could be the place in Cairns to watch it and as with live entertainment, it's free.
The hotel, one of 11 Pullman hotels in Australia and part of the Accor group, recently completed a soft refurbishment of its 128 rooms. Classy but not pretentious, it has the required plantation shutters, cool marble on its floors, spa baths, rainforest showers, a pillow menu, smart TV connectivity, a pool deck and gym and the fastest response to a housekeeping call I've ever experienced. It's a pleasure to get into a hotel room in which everything works as it should.
Also impressive in the Pullman Reef is a commitment to displaying the work of local artists. The vivid colour contrasts presented
by a marine art collection on display in the rooms and public areas during my visit Werestunning and entirely appropriate. If these wonderful canvases don't inspire a Visitorto get out to the reef, then nothing Will.
Beyondthe Esplanade in the Cairns CBD at night, if you're not gaming or watching sport at the Reef Casino, things can seem Oddlyquiet, as it can in the daytime when thousands of temporary residents are out on the reef or in the rainforest.
Restaurants and cafes are numerous enough along the Esplanade and the northern part of the boardwalk to cater for most tastes. One of my favourite coffee stops is the friendly and efficient Dolce & Cafe sidewalk outlet in Shields Street, and at the Salt House bar at the end of the boardwalk is an al fresco drinking place that makes the most of the relaxed tropical environment.
I have an hotel concierge to thank for introducing me to another side of the Cairns night scene. "Gilligan's," he told me "is the best bar", so I wandered down to Grafton Street on a Wednesday night and found that Gilligan's, rather than an Irish pub, is a cavernous drinking barn and backpacker resort built for an 18-30 crowd and big on entertainment.
A security guy was on the door checking IDs but he waved me through with an ironically raised eyebrow. Past the posters advertising jelly wrestling, live music, DJ events and T-shirt nights and into as manic a games night as I'd seen anywhere. Bogan Bingo it was called, conducted to an 80s rock soundtrack and not a 'Two Fat Ladies' or a 'Legs Eleven' in evidence.
So it's come to this, I thought over my $5 pint and then I sloped off happily into the night, looking for a feed and thinking that everything changes even in an established tourism mecca like Cairns, and mostly for the better. Arn NruG1NI has daily flights between Port Moresby and Cairns, and a twice-weekly service between Rabaul ... and Cairns. V
• For more informationon Cairns,check out www.cairns.com.au/visitor-information.
Q Air Niugini flies daily to Cairns.
FFor the past few weeks I have been suffering from PLSD- Post-Laucala Stress Disorder. Symptoms include involuntary salivation, verbal diarrhoea and incessant daydreaming about sipping white rum on a yacht at sunset, eating chicken that tastes like lobster, having an 18-hole golf course to myself and being chauffeured by jet boat to a secluded beach where a masseuse and champagne lunch await my arrival.
Set in the translucent blue waters of northern Fiji, Laucala (pronounced Lathala) is a whole-of-island resort owned by Austrian billionaire Dietrich Mateschitz, co-owner of the Red Bull energy drink company, net value US$5.3 billion.
After buying Laucala for $10 million from the heirs of American publishing baron Michael Forbes, Mateschitz spent a sum rumoured to be in the hundreds of millions of dollars transforming Forbes' low-key Melanesian hideaway into a self-sustaining Disneyland for adults.
Self-sustaining in that the property has its own greenhouses, hydroponic bays, an orchid nursery, a coconut plantation, bee hives, a boutique cattle farm, an abattoir, quail pens, subterranean coconut-crab enclosures, a piggery, a duck pond and more - a total of 240 acres of farmland that produces 80 percent of the produce needed to feed Laucala's maximum 89 guests and 370 staff. That's a staff-to-guest ratio four times that of the average 5-star hotel.
, Likesomething out of a James Bond movie, Mateschitz's private residence is set on the island's highest hilltop, in a jungle clearing With360-degree reef and water views. There's a master home and two guest villas each with individual sun decks, infinity-edge pools, iacuzzis and al-fresco dining pavilions - a resort-within-a resort that is nothing less than presidential.
When Mateschitz isn't there, the rack rate is US$40,000per night. If that sounds a bit rich, there are 25 'regular' villas starting at US$5,000a night.
Set on private beaches, over lagoons and on cliff tops, they are concurrently high tech - outfitted with everything from Bose sound systems to mobiles with a butler speed-dial - and down to earth, influenced by natural materials like rainwood, driftwood, coral, Palm, pebbles. And they are the size of houses.
The indoors section of my bathroom measured 30 square metres and featured a bathtub hewn out of a boulder, a monsoonal shower head and a toilet that looked as if at any moment it was going to take off.
A.Californian king-size bed framed the top level of a master bedroom that descended into a sunken living room with oversized sofas, custom-shaped rugs so thick and plush one could sleep on it; and a Laucala signature 'jellyfish' chandelier made of shells, corals and beads that came to life every time sea breeze breezes through the floor-to-ceiling glass doors.
Then there was the villa's actual living room, with more couches, rugs, an espresso machine and three bar fridges overstocked with top-shelf liquor, wines, freshly squeezed and bottled watermelon juice and Red Bull, of course.
At different times in the day, staff snuck in and left small dishes of Russian caviar, New York cheesecake or Iberian ham for guests to discover. On my last night, they raided the bathroom, filled the tub with bubble bath, sprinkled orchid petals all over the place and left a magnum of Louis Roederer on ice alongside a silver tray with handmade chocolate truffles and a thankyou note from David Stepetic the general manager. "We aspire to be the best," he says when I ask him if Laucala is the best resort in the world.
..........
After years of yawning at the self-congratulatory, adjective-laden press releases the travel industry has such a penchant for, Stepetic 's reply is a breath of fresh air.
Each villa is surrounded by at least 250 square metres of manicured tropical forests that come alive in the morning with the songs of kingfishers, parrots and Fiji's fable orange doves. There's a family-size swimming pool, a cabana, a second bathtub-in-a-boulder, two outdoor showers and three sun decks with sun beds overlooking the beach.
Privacy is assured with a team of 25 security guards that are never seen or heard and 15 square kilometres of private airspace for which Laucala pays the Fijian Government millions of dollars a year. Read: no paparazzi.
When the gossip mags got wind that supermodel Elle Macpherson married billionaire Jeffrey Soffer at Laucala in August, the images they printed alongside the story had to be lifted from Laucala's website.
The property's facilities are just as over-the-top. The main pool is ginormous, over 500 square metres in size with rivers, cascades, footbridges, a beachfront and, planked above one section for no logical reason, a 20-metre lap pool glass box.
Onone side of the pool is the Pool Bar, one of Laucala's five restaurants. Inspired by mighty plants with leafy canopies, it rises out of the ground like a Melanesian version of the Sydney Opera House - the perfect spot for a kokoda raw-fish salad and mango daiquiri lunch. On the other end of the pool is the.Beach Bar, a high-end grill and five-minute gold buggy drive to Rock Lounge, a cocktail bar set on an eagle's nest cliff top my partner and I had all to ourselves.
On alternate nights we tailed our sunset cocktails there Withdinner at Seagrass, a Thai restaurant with a private teppanyaki alcove overlooking a coral reef; and the Plantation House, a replica colonial mansion festooned with black and white photo portraits and indigenous art.
The executive chef is none less than Martin Klein, formerly of Michelin-starred Ikarus, the signature restaurant of Hangar 7, Mateschitz's retro-space-age aircraft museum in Salzberg, Austria. Klein, who visited our table twice during dinner, concocted a six-course degustation menu with homemade breads, brown butter that had been caramalised for extra creaminess, truffle risotto, the aforementioned lobster-like chicken and capsicum sorbet. It was matched Withvintage wines from New Zealand and Europe that also somehow tasted like butter.
There are plenty of ways to burn off those calories at Laucala, and to make way for new ones. There's a gym that looks like something out of NASA; a yoga/pilates centre with a yoga/pilates instructor standing by; a horseriding school where guests can learn show jumping and gymkhana; a 72par golf course designed by David McLay Kid, whose resume includes The Castle Course at St Andrews in Scotland;·a show-stopping spa that could double for the Garden of Eden that makes its own spa products using a coconut oil press; plus a money-is-no-object watersports centre home to a Dragon Class sail boat, a teak yacht, a 41-foot Riviera, a jetboat, half a dozen jet-skis, kayaks, scuba gear galore, underwater scooters, surfboards, sailboards and, wait for it, a $2 million submarine.
Like any man, I played with as many of these toys as time allowed.
Yet my all-time favourite Laucala activity (there were so many) was my daily swim in the lagoon in front of my villa where one morning, while breaststroking over a coral garden brimming with starfish, sea snakes and Technicolor tropical fish, I saw a hawksbill turtle larger than me.
Mateschitz, it appears, also has a predilection for the simple things in life. Late one afternoon, I saw him playing beach volleyball with a few of the Red Bull higher-ups he rewards with holidays at fantasy island.
I considered walking up and introducing myself but thought better of it after a member of his entourage explained how much Mateschitz values his privacy.
The $5,000 nightly rate, the source told me, doesn't even come close to covering the cost of running a 7-star property in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. Even if Laucala
operated at full capacity every day of the year (there were only 24 guests on the island when I visited in the height of the peak season), it would still run at a loss. On ingesting that information, I understood the $5,000 fee is arbitrary, more of a bulwark against the general public than anything else: a wall Mateschitz uses to safeguard his privacy and keep Laucala as beautiful and peaceful as it is.
Calling Laucala or anything else for that matter 'the best of the world' is meaningless. Even as a seasoned travel writer, I don't know what kind of private island resorts lay hidden in the deep blue.
But I can say without reservation that Laucala is not only the best property I have visited in my career but several times • more impressive than the runner up. V
AIR NIUGINI HAD A SUCCESSFUL 40TH anniversary celebrations highlighted by three events.
A special dinner was hosted on October 31 for staff who had completed 25, 30, 35 and 40 years in recognition of their continued service to the airline.
Celebrations continued on Friday (November 1) with a cocktail evening with
invited guests from the government and business sectors, as well as the airline's aviation partners and suppliers.
On Saturday (November 2), Air Niugini held an Open Day with displays from a number of its departments providing information on the various activities such as Commercial which included Marketing & Executive Club/ Loyalty, Engineering and Flight Operations
represented by Cabin Crew and Pilots.
The airline was supported by overseas aviation companies such as Boeing, Fokker, Bombardier, Icelandair/Loftleidir, ATR,Rolls Royce and Pratt & Whitney to showcase their respective products to approximately 5,000 visitors.
Here are some of the pictorial scenes of the events.
A special dinner was hosted for staff who had completed 25, 30, 35 and 40 years in recognition of their continued service to the airline.
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