Andrisen Morton by Business Journal, Inc

ANDRISEN MORTON Forum/The Substance of Style/Spring 2011

THE BLUE BLAZER AN OLD SCHOOL STAPLE LEARNS NEW TRICKS

FASHION HEATS UP! LIVED-IN LUXURY IT’S ALL ABOUT SOFT…

welcome

SPRING FORWARD! More than a reminder about how to set your watch for daylight savings time, this phrase embodies the fact that spring is the season of new. So how fitting that it’s also the time of year to share with you the freshest new spring/summer looks we’ve cultivated throughout winter. As we enter our 33rd year in business, this spring may be as exciting as our very first. Of course you’ll find the latest styles, luxurious textures and eye-catching hues from the designers you know and love. Who wouldn’t be excited about that! And you’ll still find the sales pros you have come to rely on to help put it all in the context of your personal style. But what jazzes us up most is knowing a new season is yet another opportunity to evolve—as a family business, as your trusted partners in fine men’s apparel, and most importantly, as people who care. You make it all possible and for that, words cannot adequately express our appreciation. So welcome spring. And as always, we look forward to welcoming you. Sincerely Yours, Craig and Dave

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Andrisen Morton 270 St. Paul Street Denver, Colorado 80206 303-377-8488 EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR

Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR

Jillian Sprague PROJECT MANAGER

Lisa Montemorra DESIGNERS

Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti CONCEPT DIRECTORS

Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR

Bob Mitchell DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION

Peg Eadie DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS

Hugh K. Stanton

BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER

FEATURES 2 6 40 44 48 52

Welcome Letter Profile: James P. Owen Drink: A Wine by Any Other Name Sports Style: Chip Ganassi Inspiration: The Warhol Look Food: Padma Lakshmi

FASHION 14 16 18 20 22 30

Designer Profile: Isaia Trends: What Not to Wear Designer Profile: Allegri Designer Profile: Canali Brighten Up! Celebrating the Iconic Blue Blazer

DEPARTMENTS 10 36 54 56

Ask Forum World Scene Humor: The Shopping Gene End Page: Design Yourself

Stuart Nifoussi PRESIDENT AND CEO

Britton Jones CHAIRMAN AND COO

Mac Brighton CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER

Christine Sullivan

APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX Mario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WA Mitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 12 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM COPYRIGHT 2011. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-852-8175; ADVERTISING OFFICE: 1384 BROADWAY, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • FAX: 212-686-6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITIES FOR ADVERTISERS CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, TRANSPARENCIES OR OTHER MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 14, ISSUE 1. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.

TO BE ONE OF A KIND

profile

RIDING FOR THE BRAND A profile of James P. Owen. By Bruce Abels In the Old West, riding for the brand meant more than being loyal to the ranch outfit you worked for. It was more about being loyal to oneself, one’s calling, and one’s values. This concept spoke to us on many levels when it was introduced by a customer. And now, we’d like to introduce him to you. When Andrisen Morton was founded some 33 years ago, Craig Andrisen and Dave Morton didn’t just start what has become Denver’s finest luxury men’s store. The partners created a brand where business is conducted only one way—the right way. It’s a philosophy based on the simple premise of always doing what’s right for the customer.

Through the years, thankfully, thousands have crossed our store’s threshold. Whether sports heroes, captains of business or everyday people, each honors us with their patronage, trust and over time, their friendship. One day about three or four years ago, we were so honored when an engaging gentleman named Mr. James Owen walked through our doors. At first glance, Mr. Owen is

a friendly, very well-dressed guy with a warm, welcoming smile and always ready for conversation. We soon came to learn Jim possesses a very unique outlook on business and life that mirrored our own.

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JIM OWEN: FINANCIAL WIZARD… By any measure, Jim Owen was an unqualified success in the financial services industry. Profiled in the Wall Street Journal as a leading Wall Street “rainmaker,” Jim Owen’s investment career spanned 40 years, including 15 as a partner with NWQ Investment Management in Los Angeles. He co-founded the Investment Management Consultants Association and remains its Chairman Emeritus. He also somehow found time to be a sought-after industry speaker and to write the financial bestseller, The Prudent Investor (McGraw-Hill, 1990). Plus, he authored The Prudent Investor’s Guide to Hedge Funds (John Wiley & Sons, 2000). Over the course of Jim’s first few visits, he became acquainted with our very own John Jaster, a menswear pro of the highest order who has been with us for more than 20 years. This

bond between the men proved to be the beginning of a long relationship based upon mutual respect and shared principles. Jim’s first impressions echo this sentiment: “It was immediately apparent I had stepped into a true gentlemen’s store, with a level of taste increasingly rare today. But it wasn’t the quality of the clothes that told me these guys were something special, it was the level of genuine service and interest in their customer.”

… AND COWBOY? In 2004, troubled by the rash of corporate scandals and culture wars rocking America, Jim happened upon the movie Open Range, a story of cowboys standing up for what is right against all odds. Its message touched something deep within him. “I thought back to the cowboy heroes of my childhood…the way they made me want to be better than I was,” he recalls, “and suddenly it all clicked. The working cowboy, with his code of honor, self-reliance and courage, was a heroic symbol of everything that had made America great. I wanted to help keep that spirit alive, to do something that, in some small way, would help our country get back on track.” Not long after, Jim sold his interest in a successful asset management firm

and saddled-up on a new journey as an inspirational author and speaker extolling cowboy values as the embodiment of how people can lead meaningful, honorable, even heroic lives. Since then, Jim has become a bestselling author, having written what he calls “The Code of the West Trilogy” comprised of three inspiring books: Cowboy Ethics (Stoecklein Publishing, 2004); Cowboy Values (The Lyons Press, 2008); The Try (Skyhorse Publishing, 2010) He also founded the Center for Cowboy Ethics and Leadership, a non-profit organization dedicated to bringing the simple, timeless values embodied in the Code of the West— honesty, loyalty and courage—back to the fore of American life. We’ve read Jim’s books. We give them as gifts to customers, friends and family. Because the more we learned about his mission to rekindle the belief in and practice of these time-honored values, the more we realized Andrisen Morton is cut from the same cloth. Everyone needs a code… a creed to live by. And Jim’s writings helped articulate ours. Jim is a man who can shop anywhere in the world, and has, from Europe’s finest shops to the best men’s stores in America. We at Andrisen Morton are proud to call Jim Owen our customer, and more importantly, our friend.

Although the Code of the West was unwritten, every cowboy knew it and lived it. “The Ten Principles” are Jim Owen's distillation of the timeless, universal cowboy values that remain relevant today. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9.

Live each day with courage Take pride in your work Always finish what you start Do what has to be done Be tough, but fair When you make a promise, keep it Ride for the brand Talk less and say more Remember that some things aren't for sale 10. Know where to draw the line

These Ten Principles were enacted into law as the Official Code of the State of Wyoming by the state legislature. Currently, Jim is “pardnering” with the University of Wyoming College of Business to create a pilot ethical leadership program based upon his Code of the West Trilogy, to be offered to companies throughout the Rocky Mountain West. In addition, Jim’s Center for Cowboy Ethics has developed a unique four-week high school unit designed to engage and inspire kids to “do the right thing—the cowboy way.” A model program has been adopted by Cherry Creek High School, a top-ranking public high school in the Denver area. To learn more about Jim Owen, his writings and the Center for Cowboy Ethics and Leadership, we invite you to visit www.cowboyethics.org.

ASKFORUM Q:

My once-youthful husband is starting to show his age. How can he update his image without looking like an idiot? It’s a good question since all too often, middle-aged guys trying to dress “cool” look just plain silly. Here are a few tips for dressing young without looking foolish: 1) Wear clothes that fit. These days, slim (not tight) is in, so anything that’s been hanging in your closet a few years is likely too baggy and poorly proportioned. Try a more current fit with narrower lapels and flat-front trousers. You’re sure to see a difference: even big guys look thinner in fitted clothing. 2) Choose grown-up clothes. Unless you’re on stage with a guitar, ripped jeans and T-shirts are a sign that you’re trying too hard. Premium denim, however, worn with a blazer or soft coat, is modern and appropriate. (Try a plaid sportcoat this season and get noticed, in a good way!) 3) Pay attention to accessories. Great style is all about making a personal statement. Nothing updates your look faster than new eyewear; get rid of those dated frames! Splurge on a beautiful belt or bag, handmade footwear or a special watch. This will modernize your image and make the whole outfit look expensive. 4) What’s old is new again. Cardigan sweaters, knit vests, bowties, boat shoes, and all manner of preppy prints (argyles, plaids) are back in style. The key to pulling it off: pick just a piece or two and wear it with confidence. Choose a classic short trench coat this spring: it will transform whatever else you’re wearing. 5) Good grooming is all important and the right haircut can take years off. Don’t even think about a comb-over (sorry Donald): invest in a good stylist or think about shaving it all off. 6) Don’t take fashion so seriously. Add something playful here and there, even with business attire: bold socks, a fun scarf or pocket square, novelty cufflinks. The only thing worse than trying too hard to dress young is worrying too much about how it all comes together. If you buy quality, you can’t screw it up too badly.

After many seasons of long printed board shorts, swimwear designers are showing more leg. Retro-inspired patterns including stripes, plaids, batiks and bandanna prints will be popular, especially in happy colors. It’s almost a ’60s feeling: start the diet now…

IMAGE BY JON MOE

What’s hot in swimwear for 2011?

The trick is to first envision yourself at your weekend events and then edit down: there’s no shame in wearing the same thing twice and it’s worth it to avoid checking luggage. Here are a few more tips: • Wear the bulkiest pieces on the plane: the sportcoat or suit jacket, plus a sweater or coat. • Place a rolled up tie and socks in each shoe. Put shoes in a drawstring shoe bag (or a plain plastic bag) to protect your clothes. • Place the heaviest items at the bottom of the suitcase: shoes, sneakers, dopp kit and gadgets. Place rolled up T-shirts and underwear along the sides of the suitcase. • If you’re packing a suit or sportcoat, turn the jacket inside out and fold into quarters (the first fold should be across the center of the back). On arrival, hang it in the bathroom and take a steamy shower to remove creases. • Placing layers of tissue between clothes does not really do much. Instead, take plastic dry cleaning bags from your local store and place over each garment when on the hanger. Then slide the hanger out and fold. The plastic layer helps prevent wrinkles. Hang upon arrival and if needed, steam out in the bathroom while the shower is running and let it hang out overnight. As for specific items to bring, here are the general guidelines: 1 blazer or sportcoat 1 pair casual pants 1 woven shirt and/or shorts 2 knit shirts (polo or tee) 1 swimsuit 1 sweater, sweatshirt 1 pair comfortable shoes or light jacket 1 belt 1 pair jeans 2-3 pair socks and underwear

I’m confused: with slimmer pants in vogue, where should pants break these days?

For most narrow-leg flat-front styles, the bottom of the pants should stop an inch above the sole of the shoe. This creates a small break (a fold in the crease in the front of the pants) at the ankle. But for fashionistas, it’s fine to show some sock, which generally means exposing about an inch of ankle. For the record, pleated pants still look best with a cuff to balance out the fabric at the waist. And ironically, now that American men have finally gotten used to flat-fronts, European runways are showing pleats. But their trendier versions have excess fabric gathered at the waist, flowing into a very narrow leg. That said, we’re not expecting these carrot-shaped pants to catch on here for quite some time...if ever.

IMAGE BY JON MOE

ask forum

How do I pack for a weekend away? (It seems I need almost as much stuff for a weekend as for a full week….)

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designer profile

NO ORDINARY MIDDLE MAN ISAIA TOES THE LINE BETWEEN CLASSIC AND CONTEMPORARY. BY WILLIAM KISSEL

Ask Gianluca Isaia to describe his eponymous collection of men’s suits and sportswear and he’ll tell you that it fits comfortably in the middle between classic and contemporary. “We offer the quality of more traditional luxury brands but with the styling of high fashion labels,” says Isaia (above), an anomaly among Italian menswear makers who is known for wearing inexpensive leather fisherman sandals with his impeccably tailored cashmere suits. The offbeat combination is the boyish designer’s way of illustrating the incredible versatility of his clothing. Men today want the freedom to mix denim with their pinstripe suit jackets, says Isaia, whose colorful clothing is made in Naples. Such idiosyncratic dressing, he insists, is not a sign of “a guy who doesn’t know how to decide” but rather that of a man “who is comfortable [enough] in his own skin to create a style that is uniquely his own.”

The line includes jackets cut with the same slightly pinched shoulder and high armhole found on most handmade Neapolitan garments. Yet there are significant differences, including a relaxed but shapely waist and the company’s

own pignattiello pocket, shaped like an Italian pot of the same name typically used to cook beans. Isaia’s trousers are athletic and lean, but not uncomfortably snug, and they are rarely pleated. The style is Neapolitan, with an edge. Since Isaia likes the look, but not the weight, of vintage textiles, he dilligently searches through the 54-year-old company’s treasure trove of archival fabrics to find bold stripes and checks he can reproduce in modern color combinations. He’s also been known to invent his own textiles: After spilling red wine on his pants, Isaia had the idea to develop AquaSpider, the first all-natural wool fabric in which the yarns are chemically treated to resist water and stains while retaining softness. Subsequent experiments resulted in an entire range of Aqua fabrics, including AquaCashmere, AquaChino (cotton) and, most recently, AquaLight, only half the weight of conventional wool. Such fabrics give an incredible lightness of being to many of Isaia’s pieces. By mixing them with old world hand tailoring and modern styling, Isaia has found a way to, as he says, “offer a whole new definition of Neapolitan style to the American man.”

trends

not

SPRING 2011 RUNWAY LOOKS YOU SHOULDN’T TRY AT HOME.

TO WEAR

WHAT

IT’S OKAY TO ADD A POP OF COLOR TO YOUR OUTFIT, BUT TRY DOING IT WITH A BRIGHT SHIRT OR ACCESSORY INSTEAD OF SHINY PANTS.

LAYERING IS A TREND WE CAN GET BEHIND, BUT PLEASE, NO LEGGINGS!

Branch out from a boring black formalwear look, BUT BEWARE OF METALLIC OVERKILL. 16

ADD INTEREST WITH YOUR TIE OR VEST, OR TRY A CLASSIC TUX IN NAVY FOR SOMETHING THAT’S EYE-CATCHING BUT APPROPRIATE.

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We’re all for updating your denim, but go for a slimmer fit and a darker wash; avoid unnecessary bells and whistles.

SWIMSUITS SHOULD BE FUN, BUT LET’S FACE IT: FEW MEN CAN PULL OFF THESE TINY TRUNKS! 17

designer profile

THOUGH WE RARELY LOOK TO SILK AND CASHMERE FOR RAIN PROTECTION, THIS IS ALLEGRI’S SPECIALTY.

THE ARCHITECTS OF OUTERWEAR

ALLEGRI IS BUILT TO LAST. BY JILLIAN SPRAGUE Today more than ever, Americans are on the go. Whether commuting to work or traveling for pleasure, we need clothes that can move with us. Enter Allegri, whose line of outerwear, bags and rain accessories can best be described as functional luxury. Headquartered in Florence, Allegri’s factory employs 130 artisans who perform rigorous quality control tests and constantly adjust fits to achieve the perfect balance between endurance, comfort and streamlined style. The brand offers three collections: Milano, classic designs for the working week; A-Tech, sportier garments for weekend and leisure; and 010109 (which general manager Gian Maria Argentini refers to as the brand’s black label), dedicated to special occasion. Black label products are made entirely in Italy, with all-natural fibers like pure double silk that are 100 percent water repellent. Though we rarely think of precious fabrics like cashmere and silk as suitable for rain protection, this is precisely Allegri’s specialty. Since its founding in 1971, it has experimented with more than

2,000 different fabrics, always in search of the finest fibers (for softness and breathability) that can be technically treated (for durability and strength). Bi-Stretch, for example, is lightweight, water repellent and wrinkle resistant, and was used in Allegri’s spring collection for a jacket that “looks like a sartorial blazer, but you can pack it for 10 days in your suitcase, take it out, and in two seconds it goes back to normal condition,” explains Argentini. Allegri is also the only brand in North America to offer Rain Cashmere, a luxurious (and, of course, water repellent) 100 percent cashmere. With some of fashion’s most venerable designers in its past (Giorgio Armani, Martin Margiela, Viktor & Rolf) and a future fueled by constant technological innovation, the 40-year-old brand—like its product—is sure to endure. Argentini warns that the brand isn’t for fickle fashion customers looking to throw away their coats after one season. With classic styling and modern fits, Allegri is an investment that stands up in any storm.

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designer profile

THE IDEA IS TO SHOW THE EXTREME VERSATILITY OF THE MODERN SUIT, WHICH IS NO LONGER CONFINED TO THE OFFICE.

TIMELESS CLASSIC

CANALI REWRITES THE MANUAL ON MODERN ITALIAN STYLE. BY WILLIAM KISSEL In the 1960s, when Italy was coming out of a long period of political and economic turmoil, Federico Fellini’s fashionable masterpiece La Dolce Vita brought a new sense of optimism and helped propagate the country’s reputation as an axis of sophistication and elegance. “I like to think of that period as the golden age of Italian style,” says Elisabetta Canali, whose familyowned brand took fashion cues from the 50-year-old classic film. “The suits worn by Marcello Mastroianni had a certain sophistication, but they were not stiff looking at all,” explains Canali, the company’s third generation global communications director. “We wanted to put this vintage sense of style in our [spring] collection, but reinterpreted in a much more contemporary way.” Such innovation has been in the brand’s DNA since cousins Giovanni and Giacomo Canali established the label in 1934 with

the first 2-button notch lapel suit, constructed to be easily adaptable to any body type. Over the years Canali has evolved to include detail-driven sportswear, outerwear and accessories, while retaining its technical prowess for superior suit making. The brand often presents its tailored clothing as sportswear, pairing dress slacks with silky polo knits, and two-piece suits with casual sport shirts and even lightweight sweaters. The idea, says Canali, is to show the extreme versatility of the modern suit, which is no longer confined to the office. “It’s what I refer to as informal elegance,” says Canali, noting that even the classic DB blazer can be contemporary if worn with jeans or 5-pocket chinos. “Of course the silhouette is slimmer, the buttons are higher and the shoulders are more natural,” she says, “but the double breasted is timeless and one of the most elegant expressions of a jacket a man can own.”

New to Canali are the “S” model jacket (a slimmer, shorter, sexier silhouette), and the completely unlined and unconstructed Kei jacket that’s cut like a sportcoat but wears and feels like a sweater. Canali also launched Canali Exclusive, a line of made-toorder tailored clothing crafted from the rarest super wools.

Photographed by JON MOE Produced by SUSAN F. SIDOR

BRIGHTEN UP! SPRING 2011 IS A SEASON TO LIGHTEN UP, BRIGHTEN UP AND HAVE SOME FUN. ENERGIZE YOUR WARDROBE (AND YOUR LIFE) WITH A SPLASH OF COLOR!

LIGHTEN UP!SOFT FABRICS IN PALE SUNDRENCHED SHADES REFLECT INNER PEACE AND SERENITY. IT’S TIME TO RELAX!

CHEER UP!BOLD COLORS ELEVATE YOUR MOOD. ONCE IN AWHILE, IT’S OKAY TO LIVE DANGEROUSLY…

LOOKING UP!MIX COLOR WITH WHITE FOR A CRISP CLEAN LOOK THAT’S MODERN, FRESH AND OH SO SEXY. IT’S WHAT YOU NEED NOW…

MARKET EDITOR: JOHN JONES; HAIR AND MAKEUP: LAUREN FRENDEN / ARTISTS BY TIMOTHY PRIANO; MODELS: STUART B-WILHELMINA MIAMI; JOSH JOHNSON-WILHELMINA MIAMI; FABRICIO ZUNINO-NEXT MODELS MAIMI; VALESKA-ELITE MODELS; LARISA-ELITE MIAMI; ASSOCIATE EDITOR: TARA FERRI; JEWELRY: ROBIN ROTINIER

CELEBRATING THE ICONIC BLUE BLAZER

A classic wardrobe staple, the quintessential blue blazer graduates from prep school to country club and travels with global sophistication.

Photographed by JON MOE Produced by SUSAN F. SIDOR

NAUTICAL EASE INTO SPRING WITH A KNIT BLAZER FOR THE ULTIMATE IN COMFORT AND COOL. PAIR IT WITH FURNISHINGS THAT POP, CRISP WHITE TROUSERS AND CLASSIC BOAT SHOES. YOU’RE READY FOR THE CAPTAIN’S TABLE

PREP COOL MINIMUM EFFORT, MAXIMUM IMPACT IN AN ITALIAN VERSION OF THE NAVY BLAZER, BOLD PIQUE KNIT POLO, ROLLED-UP TROUSERS AND CLASSIC SNEAKERS. DON’T FORGET THE EYEWEAR: BIGGER IS BETTER THIS SEASON

ASSOCIATE EDITOR: TARA FERRI; GROOMING: MARK LEYLAND; MODELS: PARKER HURLEY-RED MODEL MANAGEMENT; PAUL FRANCIS-Q MODELS; ASSISTANT: JULIO FRIAS; PROPS: PROPS FOR TODAY

EURO-LAYERED PILE IT ON, BUT GENTLY! START WITH A SOFT WHITE POLO, ADD A FINE COTTON SHIRT, SLIMCUT BLAZER, CARGO PANTS AND SUEDE WINGTIPS. CASUALLY DRAPE A CASHMERE SWEATER FOR GOOD MEASURE. MAGNIFICO!

SARTORIAL THE CLASSIC NAVY BLAZER PAIRED WITH BOLD SHIRT AND TIE, ELEGANT TROUSERS AND BROWN SUEDE SHOES TAKES YOU ANYWHERE AND EVERYWHERE, SCORING POINTS ALONG THE WAY

MODERN YOU CAN TRY THIS AT HOME! MIX A GREAT BLAZER WITH PREMIUM DENIM (DARK IS BEST), A PATTERNED SHIRT AND FABULOUS SHOES. FLAUNT YOUR PERSONAL STYLE AND MAKE THE BLAZER LOOK YOUR OWN

world scene

YOUR RIDE’S HERE

BRP

ead to the open road in BRP’s new CanAm Spyder RT. Powered by a Rotax 991 engine with electronic throttle control optimized for touring, the roadster features a BOSCH-engineered vehicle stability system, includng anti-lock brakes and traction control, so you don’t have to be a pro to ride. The latest models come with adjustable electric windshields to protect you from the elements. And so the well-dressed man can bring along his wardrobe, Can-Am offers fitted color-coordinated Spyder RT rolling luggage. Now that’s biker chic.

Experience life’s little luxuries. By Donald Charles Richardson

CORRALING THE RIGHT WINES

TEUBNER FOODFOTO - STOCKFOOD MUNICH / STOCKFOOD

ommelier Richard Patino from The French Room, at The Adolphus in Dallas, offers perfect pairing suggestions for your upcoming barbecues. For a wonderful white, there’s Francois Pinon Cuvée Silex Noir, Vouvray 2008, a Chenin Blanc from France’s Loire Valley that is slightly “off-dry” but retains bright acidity to complement sweet honey BBQ sauce. Another is Au Bon Climat Chardonnay, Santa Maria Valley 2008, which matches well with chicken or shellfish. For summer reds, try d’Arenberg Footbolt Shiraz, McLaren Vale 2008, a 100 percent Shiraz from Australia. This wine has red fruit aromas with spicy undertones, so it pairs well with short ribs. For beef or pork, drink A. Rafanelli Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley 2008, with characteristics of jammy fruit and a hint of black pepper. At fancy occasions, Patino suggests Domaine De La Solitude, Côtes du Rhône Rosé 2009. But, he says, the perfect BBQ wine is Lambert Bridge Forchini Vineyard Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley 2007. This versatile Zinfandel is equally amazing with baby back ribs, brisket, or cheeseburgers.

BOSS Black

HUGO BOSS FASHIONS INC. Phone +1 212 940 0600

Austin-Lehman Adventures specializes in explorations that combine outdoor activities such as hiking, rafting and horseback riding with nights spent at distinctive inns. Or they’ll craft a special trip and you can see the sights in your own way. For a family reunion, the company flew guests to a Montana ranch where they enjoyed fishing lessons, horseback riding and a tour of Yellowstone National Park led by a private wildlife expert. On another occasion, the company arranged for a gentleman to treat his twin grandsons to six national parks in five days by private jet. And when a Chicago businessman wanted a unique celebration for his wife’s 60th birthday, Austin-Lehman set up cocktails in the surf of Kauai at sunset and sent a helicopter to release hundreds of pounds of rose petals around the couple as they toasted. Where in the world do you want to go?

AUSTIN-LEHMAN

THE CONTINUING ADVENTURES OF...YOU

JOE TABACCA PHOTOGRAPHY

LEFT TO YOUR OWN DEVICES The CEO of a Fortune 500 company wanted a TV he could view from his bathroom sink, but didn’t want to see it when not in use. Joshua Rich, president of Rich AV Design, which specializes in unique and one-of-a-kind electronic installations, created a vanity mirror that turns into a television. When the TV is off, it’s a regular bathroom mirror; when the TV is on, a portion of the mirror becomes a 19” HDTV. Rich has also handled the installation of custom anamorphic movie screens that adapt to the varying aspect ratios of movies and TV shows, and arranged media rooms with motorized chairs and automated lights. He can even make a ‘butt remote,’ a simple control that powers on your entire home theater when you sit on the sofa. It gives the term ‘smartass’ a whole new meaning.

HELLAS BENT

KISTERNA HOTEL, HISTORIC HOTELS OF GREECE

bout four hours from Athens, in the Greek Peloponnese, is one of the most fascinating hotels in Greece: the Kinsterna Hotel and Spa. Once the estate of an Ottoman judge, now grandly refurbished and elevated to membership in the Historic Hotels of Greece, this Byzantine-era mansion sits on the side of a hill, sequestered amid vineyards and olive and citrus groves, facing Monemvasia Castle and the Aegean. The main buildings are a historical assortment of Byzantine, Ottoman, Venetian and modern Greek architecture. Inside the restored stone walls the 27 suites have fireplaces and marble bathrooms, the spa offers a purifying traditional Ottoman hammam, and the swimming pool begins as a brook feeding off the ancient cistern and grows to run like a river through centuries-old orange trees. Opened just last year, the Kinsterna has already become popular with celebrities and heads of state who relish the solitude of the tranquil Mediterranean environment.

drink

A FEW BAD APPLES (OR IN THIS CASE, GRAPES) GAVE A GOOD WINE A NOT-SOGOOD REPUTATION.

A WINE BY ANY OTHER NAME

Italian wine” in 1984’s The Signet Encyclopedia of Wine. But mass production of cheap, low-quality product flooded the U.S. market (most blame the Bolla cooperative) and tarnished the Soave name. Thirty years later, wine culture has become a huge part of our culinary experience. Though more Americans today are wine drinkers, those who don’t have a negative perception of Soave have likely never heard of it at all. A challenge for the region’s wine producers, but also a rare opportunitiy to introduce

n the 1970s and ’80s, Soave was synonymous with Italian white wine, much as Chianti was the Italian red. A recent article in the Wall Street Journal points out that Soave had even been described as “America’s favorite white

IMAGES BY TRACY HOWARD

CAN SOAVE REGAIN ITS PLACE AS THE MOST POPULAR WHITE WINE IN AMERICA? BY JILLIAN SPRAGUE

this generation of wine lovers to something “new.” Located just east of Verona at the base of the Lessini Mountains, Soave is a small town that, despite its size, is home to over 3,000 wine producers. It has a proud tradition of winemaking dating back to the Middle Ages, and many of the family-owned vineyards have not changed hands for centuries. In Soave, like much of the Veneto region it is a part of, houses, roads and olive trees are the only things left uncovered by vines. A few wild poppies scattered among the neatly planted rows are the only contrast to the lush green. Of the 12,000 hectares of land between Verona and Venice, 8,000 are planted with

vineyards. Each hectare contains between 3,500 and 5,000 individual vines, resulting in the most concentrated coverage in all of Italy. So it’s no surprise that Soave still produces the largest volume of white wine in the country, and is the third largest wine producing area overall. 60 to 70 million bottles are produced each year, about 60 to 70 percent of which are exported. With so many growers and such

a large output, there are obvious challenges to controlling standards of production. The Consorzio di Tutela Soave is an organization of producers dedicated to doing just that, as well as promoting Soave wines throughout the world. Over the last five years, they have redoubled their efforts to increase quality and recapture the hearts (and palates) of American wine drinkers. Says Giovanni Ponchia, the con-

sortium’s oenologist, “Good wines have been made here all along, and enjoyed in many parts of the world. We want to keep doing what we do best but always improve the balance between the volume of output and the quality of the product.” Production of Soave is, in fact, tightly controlled. Grapes are carefully grown in well-defined regions according to strict traditions. 70 percent of the wine must be comprised of the Garganega grape, and the other 30 percent can be made up of Chardonnay or Trebbiano. (The trend in recent years is towards Trebbiano, and the highest quality wines are often 100 percent Garganega.) Most growers in the region use the pergola veronese trellising method, in which wooden canopies two meters tall train the vines upward, then outward. This allows the clusters to spread out, so the wind can blow between each

grape to keep them dry without knocking them off the vine. Once bottled, wines are aged for an average of one to three years before being released onto the market, and are meant to be drunk young (though under the right conditions some have aged surprisingly well). Soave wines range in color from pale to straw yellow and have a fruity-floral nose, with notes of citrus, balanced acidity and a strong finish. Soave pairs well with aged cheeses and light seafood dishes, and the consortium hopes to convince American consumers that their wines are a fresh alternative to Pinot Grigio, whose market in the U.S. has become oversaturated and overpriced. Ponchia says that 2009 was one

of the best growing seasons in the past 10 years, which means some excellent wines are hitting the shelves now, and well worth a try at pricepoints around $20. “We don’t have to ignore history,” he says. “We can’t take anything away from Bolla; they were, after all, the first to introduce Soave to America. But we want to bring back order and seriousness to the business of winemaking. We’ve learned from our mistakes. For those who appreciate and recognize quality, now is the time to give Soave a second chance.”

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sports style CHIP GANASSI COMBINES SPEED, STYLE AND BUSINESS SAVVY. BY DAVID A. ROSE

ou might say 2010 was an extraordinary year for Chip Ganassi. On February 14th one of his stock cars, driven by Jamie McMurray, won NASCAR’s premier event, the Daytona 500. On May 30th one of his Indy Cars won the Memorial Day classic, the Indianapolis 500. Two months later McMurray won NASCAR’s high profile race at Indianapolis, the Brickyard 400, making Ganassi the first team owner ever to win the Triple Crown of American motorsports. Ganassi himself raced in the Indianapolis 500 five times beginning in 1981, but in 1984 he suffered a major crash at the Michigan International Speedway that ended his career as a driver. He formed Chip Ganassi Racing in 1990 with primary sponsorship from Target stores. As president and majority owner, Ganassi now manages teams in both the Indy Car Series and the GrandAm Rolex Sports Car Series. He’s also partnered with Dale Earnhardt, Inc. to form Earnhardt

Above: Dario Franchitti clinches the Indy Car Championship for the second year in a row Left: Scott Dixon, Ganassi and Franchitti show off the Borg Warner and Harley J. Earl Trophies

IMAGES COURTESY OF TARGET CHIP GANASSI RACING

WE ARE THE CHAMPIONS

paulshark.it

MADE IN ITALY

Ganassi Racing in NASCAR. Here, Forum gets the scoop on what drives this motorsports superstar.

No, we currently have six drivers in five cars, and although I may have the urge sometimes to give advice on how to drive, I don’t. Because I was once a driver I have a connection to what they’re going through, so I think I bring something to the table beyond just being an owner and manager.

When Lotus developed the ground effects car in the late 1970s, James Hunt retired from racing, saying he didn’t want to be an irrelevant part (less than 50 percent) of the driver/car equation. What percentage of the equation are drivers today?

IMAGE COURTESY OF CHIP GANASSI RACING WITH FELIX SABATES

Ganassi and Scott Pruett celebrate after winning the Grand Prix of Miami at HomesteadMiami Speedway

You’ve gone from being a racecar driver to a driving force in motor racing. Which role is more fulfilling? While I was growing up in Pittsburgh, I always had visions of sitting atop one of these buildings and running a company. When I started in motor racing I never thought it would be my career; I figured it would be a weekend activity, nothing more. Although there was no period in my life more exciting than the time I was a racecar driver, it was then that I realized I loved motorsports as a business. So I’d have to say what I’m doing now is most fulfilling.

As a former driver, do you ever have the urge to climb into the racecar yourself?

I have a lot of respect for James Hunt and he was a good driver, but as racing cars evolve technically, it may make some drivers obsolete. At the same time, it will bring other drivers along. These days, you need to have it all: 100 percent car, 100 percent driver, 100 percent crew.

You’ve been at this sport for 30 years; what has been your most memorable event? Qualifying for my first Indianapolis 500 in 1982, just 10 days after I graduated from college. I had just turned 23 and I was the fastest rookie at Indianapolis that year. Since then we’ve had a lot of great wins in great cars with great drivers, but that day in 1982 was when it all began.

The Target Chip Ganassi relationship seems to go beyond dollars and cents. How does a business relationship acheive this kind of synergy? I feel fortunate to have been a part

of Target when their company was growing. When I first met them they had 400 stores; today there are 1700. Target embraces change and they’re often at the leading edge. Our values, our work ethics and our views of things are very much aligned, and when you are that aligned, you end up with a good relationship. It’s that simple.

When Jamie McMurray won the Brickyard 400, you became the first team owner to win America’s triple crown. How did that feel? I’m more pleased that all six of my drivers have won at least one race this year. That to me is more exciting than me winning the triple crown.

Since Forum is a fashion and lifestyle magazine, tell us about your fashion sense. I’m in the sports business and so my personal style is centered on casual sportswear. I enjoy wearing my Zegna suits, but obviously I would look a bit out of place at the race track dressed that way.

What was your last clothing purchase and what might you buy next? My last purchase was that Zegna navy blazer you see hanging on the wall over there. My next purchase will be a Loro Piana scarf.

What do you do to relax? A few years ago I moved out to Fox Chapel, Pennsylvania; I love being around my house, swimming in my pool in the summer and skiing in the winter. I enjoy feeding the fish in my fish pond and also doing yard work. It’s about as far from racecar driving as it gets.

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FASHION, GLAMOUR AND STYLE, THEN AND NOW. BY CALLY JAMIS VENNARE

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More than two decades after his untimely death, Andy Warhol’s bold imprint on fashion remains strong and vibrant. Then and now, The Warhol Look reflects the artist’s distinct blend of fashion, glamour and style. And no matter how it’s framed—runway show, museum exhibition, window display, or magazine illustration— Warhol’s work has a uniquely timeless appeal. In the second half of the 20th century, The Warhol Look reigned supreme. The artist’s influence crossed genres, genders and generations as his work grew more expansive and popular. It was controversial. It was iconic, yet contemporary. And it constantly changed to reflect the times...just as Warhol had hoped. His diversity of styles (those he created through his art as well as embodied in appearance and demeanor) still offer limitless inspiration for today’s artisans. Pop Art has been “embraced and disseminated by the fashion industry,” says art historian Marco Livingstone. Warhol’s bold color palette,

the

strongly influenced by his vast Fiestaware collection, is considered at the same time nostalgic and nouveau. And his glamorous subjects—Marilyn Monroe, Elizabeth Taylor and Edie Sedgwick to name but a few—still

fascinate and inspire designs on and off the runway. According to Alice Mackrell’s book Art and Fashion, designer Yves Saint Laurent considered his great friend Warhol to be “inspiring in everything he did.” For

Warhol Self Portrait, nine canvases 1966

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other top photographers and the woman who introduced Warhol to Mick Jagger), leggy Donyale Luna (the first African-American supermodel), icy Nico (a former model turned musician with ties to Bob Dylan, Brian Jones, and ultimately, The Velvet Underground), and Ivy Nicholson (a top cover girl of the early 1960s).

Betsey Johnson and other accomplished designers, the Warhol Look was manifested in dresses made from paper, plastic and metal. Other prominent examples include Jean-Charles de Castelbajac’s vibrant dresses printed with Warhol motifs, Gianni Versace’s “Marilyn Monroe” dress and Philip Treacy’s limited edition collection of hats and bags featuring iconic Warhol images. And at spring 2011 New York Fashion Week, Diane von Furstenberg channeled her very own Andy Warhol portrait through blaring pink lips on the otherwise fresh faces of her runway models. “At some point in the creative process we pulled the picture,” noted von Furstenberg on stylelist.com. “I was young in the ’70s and all these clothes remind me of my youth.” Warhol’s influence reached further than fashion, to commercial and fine art, filmmaking, and publishing. In fact, his Interview magazine is considered by many to be the pinnacle of the artist’s obsession with style. “Interview was the first pop culture magazine,” says Paige Powell, its former associate publisher. “It set trends rather than followed them. It was in the moment, not dated.” Not surprisingly, Warhol’s passion for celebrity led to his creation of Interview. “He wanted to be part of the city in a bigger way…and felt if he had a film magazine, they would let him into the premieres. And they did!” Moreover, The Warhol Look (the catalog supporting the 1997 to 1999 exhibition of the same name) also established that “today’s merging of art and fashion is in large measure the legacy of Andy

GLAMOUR & FILM In 1965 Warhol made more than 10 films (and numerous public appearances) with Edie Sedgwick, the trendsetting tragic beauty who is still regarded as a fashion icon. The films include Beauty #2, Poor Little Rich Girl, Face, Lupe and Kitchen, among others.

Warhol” and that “fashion is the connective tissue joining what previously appeared as disparate elements” in his work. The Andy Warhol Museum, which organized the exhibition The Warhol Look, is one of the most comprehensive single-artist museums in the world. At the end of their 15th anniversary celebration, the museum’s former director, Tom Sokolowski, and archival staff provided the following examples to give us a deeper appreciation of Warhol’s expansive footprint.

DESIGNERS & TELEVISION After years of socializing with fashion designers such as Halston (whose cocktail dress of light, slinky fabric was printed with Warhol’s bold, bright 1965 Flowers image), in 1979 Warhol produced a multipart television series titled Fashion, which focused on the work of the top designers of the day. In later TV series in the mid1980s, Andy Warhol’s TV and Andy Warhol’s Fifteen Minutes, Warhol continued to present the work of (at the time) current designers such as Stephen Sprouse, who based an entire season’s line on Warhol’s Camouflage paintings. To learn more, visit The Warhol in downtown Pittsburgh, or go to www.warhol.org.

TODAY’S MERGING OF ART AND FASHION IS IN LARGE MEASURE THE LEGACY OF ANDY WARHOL.

MODELS & MUSIC In the mid-1960s, Warhol featured many fashion models in his films. This was especially evident in his series of Screen Test portrait films that included blonde “Baby Jane” Holzer (a sought-after fashion model among David Bailey and

The Souper Dress, paper 1966-67

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food

It’s All About

Lakshmi and special guest Joe Jonas give Top Chef contestants instructions for a “Quickfire Challenge”

Taste

COOKING, DRESSING AND ACCESSORIZING HAVE MUCH IN COMMON. BY LISA MONTEMORRA MENGHI ormer supermodel and current co-host of Bravo’s Top Chef, Padma Lakshmi, is well versed in multitasking. She launched her jewelry collection, Padma, two years ago, but in addition to her roles as television host and jewelry maker, Lakshmi is an author, Pantene spokesperson, co-founder of the Endometriosis Foundation of America and, most recently, a mother. Let’s start with food: How did you first get involved with cooking? The kitchen was the place the women in my family congregated. My mother was famous for feeding people spontaneously: If you showed up at her house unannounced, she could whip something up in a half-hour or less. If

she had something like leftover chicken, she’d throw it in a stockpot and make a stew. I call this “MacGyvering in the kitchen.” Can you discuss the leap from supermodel to food expert? To me, it made sense. I always loved to cook, but after college I started modeling to pay off my loans. I had studied theatre, but most of my career was spent in fashion—first as a model then as an editor with Harper’s Bazaar and The New York Times. [Food] was just a natural extension for me. Both food and fashion are about good taste. What are some of your most memorable Top Chef moments? There are so many! There was this

one dessert, however, a few seasons back…Ariane [Duarte] made this lemon curd that was so sour and so sweet that it was hard to take more than one dollop of it. And Ariane is such a nice woman, I felt awful. (Editor’s note: Lakshmi spit the dessert out.) Can you tell us what you notice first in a man? I don’t like a man to look too perfect, nor do I like a man to look too sloppy. The first thing I notice is his face, the second is his voice and what he’s using it to say. What’s next for you? I don’t have a master plan, but I’m looking forward to spending more time with my daughter and trying to rest a little. I just finished filming and I’m pretty beat! I’d love to go to Bali, maybe do an eating tour of Thailand. You’d think I’d be sick of eating…but I’m not!

Piermont

humor

Women are compulsive shoppers. It’s more than a passion; it’s an addiction. Last week, as we were dressing to go out, I watched helplessly as my wife tried on a dozen pairs of black pants, ripping each off her body as she became increasingly frantic. “Nothing works!” she cried in frustration, as she asked me which looked best. Knowing this was a trick question, I told her only that they all looked fine. She eyed me skeptically like I was denying a felony charge for which she had hard evidence. “The skinny pants make me look fat; I don’t have the right boots for the boot cut pair; the flannel trousers are too heavy for this weather! How can you possibly say they look fine?” Now I’m starting to understand: she not only discerns difference among them, but she actually believes these nuances matter! Perhaps this explains why she owns dozens of black jackets and white blouses and infinite pairs of jeans, not to mention the shoes and handbags.... The following Saturday evening, I put on a pair of gray trousers. They have lots of pleats, and suddenly, I’m not feeling so many pleats. I pull out another pair, which seem fine until I put them on and notice that the cuffs are dragging on the floor. (Either the pants grew or I shrunk….) Since there are no more gray pants in my closet, I take out some black ones, only to notice that the fabric has become inexplicably shiny. And when I throw on the navy blazer, it’s obvious (even to me) that it would look much better with gray pants. At that moment, my wife walks in from shopping, exuberant and exhausted. “I’ve found the perfect black pants,” she exclaims with a sense of joy I’d not heard from her since I proposed 20 years ago. And for the first time in all those years, I understand her excitement. “Next time,” I suggest with trepidation, “maybe I’ll come with you....”

SOMETIMES, STYLISTIC NUANCES DO MATTER.

’ve figured out the main difference between men and women. It’s not that men can’t watch TV without tapping the remote, not that women prefer foreplay to actual sex, and not that men can’t communicate (though these things may be true). After getting gradually crowded out of every closet (and every drawer in every dresser), the difference is clear:

WOMEN HAVE IT, MEN COULD USE IT… BY MIKE SAMUELS 54

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The Shopping Gene

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AS YOU BUILD YOUR WARDROBE WITH QUALITY PIECES, YOU’LL CULTIVATE THAT DISCERNING EYE THAT RECOGNIZES A GOOD INVESTMENT.

DESIGN YOURSELF

A great wardrobe, like DIY furniture, looks best when the pieces fit. By Hans Gschliesser embraced a designer aesthetic. You’ve trashed the worn futon and are now sitting pretty on a Mies van der Rohe sofa. Gone are the days of piecing together tag sale furniture in the hopes of creating a cohesive look that echoes your lifestyle. And so it should be for your wardrobe. You’re busy, and your time is too valuable to rely on bargain basement sales. Maybe you’ll get lucky and stumble on something that’s the right color or style, if it even fits. Likely not. So take the experts’ advice: find a look that works for you and shop in a store that consistently delivers the goods. Sometimes the best option is to focus on a single designer, like Zegna or Canali or Ralph Lauren. Find one with a fit that works for your body type and a look that reflects your attitude. Once you’ve got the foundation, you can round out your wardrobe with items from other designers and brands. Many interior designers these days choose to strike a balance between modern and classic. This applies to your appearance as well. Learn to make your look work without seeming forced or over-styled. Pare each outfit down to the essentials and you’ll be perceived as confident and competent. And remember: you’re a work in progress. As you build your wardrobe with quality pieces, you’ll cultivate that discerning eye that recognizes a good investment. It all adds up.

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ANDRISEN MORTON FORUM SPRING 2011