Kilgore Trout by Business Journal, Inc

Forum The Substance of Style/Spring 2011

The magazine of

Kilgore Trout www.kilgoretrout.com

THE BLUE BLAZER AN OLD SCHOOL STAPLE LEARNS NEW TRICKS

SPRING FEVER HITS CLEVELAND LIVED-IN LUXURY IT’S ALL ABOUT SOFT…

CONFESSIONS OF A SHOPKEEPER Every time I see the first bud of spring come into view or that early seedling spring up through the still cold soil, I stand in utter bewilderment at how our planet (or more specifically, the formerly frozen tundra of greater Cleveland) has a knack for refreshing and reinvigorating itself. We know the bud will bloom, the seedling will grow to bear fruit, the breezes will warm, and the days will get longer. But spring is still a pretty miraculous thing, and it requires a delicately balanced and healthy ecosystem to make it all happen. Like our planet, our businesses and communities require similarly balanced and healthy ecosystems to grow and thrive. At Kilgore Trout, our professional, caring group of associates understands the value of relationships. They have deep roots in our community, and know clothing better than just about anyone. Yet they're only one part of the Kilgore Trout ecosystem. Behind the scenes, our workroom of exceptional European-trained tailors adds their skill and expertise, and our office and merchandising staff help us keep it all together and looking good. Our deep relationships with nearly two hundred of the world's highest quality designers and manufacturers is another facet. All of this comes together into the ecosystem of Kilgore Trout, the store Esquire magazine perennially names "Best of Class, and one of the finest in America." It's all these elements working in harmony that makes your Kilgore Trout experience what it is, and while—like nature—we'll continue to change and evolve, we'll always promise the level of quality, service and value to which you're accustomed. After all, in our view, you're the reason our ecosystem exists in the first place. Thank you for your business—past, present and future. Happy spring! We look forward to seeing you soon. Wally Naymon, shopkeeper

PHOTO: LUIS ALVAREZ

welcome

LIKE NATURE, BUSINESS REQUIRES A HEALTHY ECOSYSTEM. THANKS FOR BEING PART OF OURS.

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28601 Chagrin Blvd. Cleveland, OH 44122 216-831-0488 www.kilgoretrout.com EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR

Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR

Jillian Sprague PROJECT MANAGER

Lisa Montemorra DESIGNERS

Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti CONCEPT DIRECTORS

Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR

Bob Mitchell DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION

FEATURES 2

Welcome Letter

24 Footwear: Made in Suede 34 Accessories: Ode to the Pocket Square 54 Drink: A Wine by Any Other Name

Peg Eadie DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS

Hugh K. Stanton

BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER

Stuart Nifoussi PRESIDENT AND CEO

Britton Jones CHAIRMAN AND COO

58 Inspiration: The Warhol Look

Mac Brighton CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER

Christine Sullivan

FASHION 6

Must-Haves: Spring Fever

30 Trends: What Not to Wear 32 Designer Profile: Boglioli 36 Brighten Up! 44 Celebrating the Iconic Blue Blazer

DEPARTMENTS 22 In-Store Services 26 Ask Forum

APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX Mario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WA Mitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 12 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM COPYRIGHT 2011. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-852-8175; ADVERTISING OFFICE: 1384 BROADWAY, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • FAX: 212-686-

50 World Scene 60 Humor: The Shopping Gene

6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITIES FOR ADVERTISERS CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, TRANSPARENCIES OR OTHER MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 14, ISSUE 1. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.

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HOW CAN WE MAKE YOUR LIFE EASIER TODAY?

IN-STORE SERVICES Register at kilgoretrout.com to receive timely notices and special offers. We've significantly reduced our mailings and have saved a lot of trees in the process, but we want to be sure you're in the loop! Find us on Facebook Event updates, runway videos from our designers, great conversations, photos of our latest arrivals, contests and more. Personal Shopping If you're short on time, your Kilgore Trout consultant will pre-select garments that fit your style and have them ready at your arrival. Made-to-Measure for Men Our expert advice and tailoring combined with your personal style allow you to have a wardrobe that's as unique as your fingerprint. Tailoring Our on-site tailors for men and women will always create the perfect fit. Closet Consulting Ask your sales consultant for details on our complimentary personal style consultation in the privacy of your home. Customer Lounge Espresso, a soft drink, and a game on the flat screen are always at the ready. Shoe Repair We will arrange for the repair of any footwear purchased in our store. Delivery and Shipping Wherever you may be, your purchase will arrive safe and sound.

footwear

hEy bUStEr! thE bUck IS bAck, AND It’S All growN Up.

MADE IN SUEDE For a long time the prevailing wisdom was that suede shoes were strictly for fall/winter. That was never really true, but old habits die hard. As youngsters, many of us grew up wearing bucks—that iconic suede lace-up The Buster Brown. And some of us, dirty bucs. The dirtier the better. They were the perfect playground shoe with their spongy brick red soles. As we got older, we graduated to desert boots. They had three eyelets and were the same color as bucks, and oh so comfortable. We wore these short ankle boots year round—and most of us wore out a couple of pairs a year. About a year or so ago, the Italians began to rediscover this genre of distinctly American footwear. But in typical Italian fashion they were now made for adults. Now, we can all re-live our youth in the shoes of our childhoods with the incredible selections we’ve assembled from a number of wonderful American and Italian footwear suppliers. One of the most anticipated arrivals is our new line from Italy: Barleycorn. In various colors and styles, this line epitomizes the trend with models including beautiful white buck wing tips with ultra-light Vibram rubber soles. (Most don’t know it, but Vibram is an Italian product too, developed by Vitali Bramani in 1937.) There are also super soft suede desert boots in fun colors that will look great with denim. These shoes are on trend, and the absolute essence of current Italian footwear design—fashion, comfort, design and quality. The modern urban twist on classics continues with Star by John Varvatos—great fun footwear with a young mentality. And of course, exquisite luxe variations from our premium handmade Italian vendor Gravati and fun funky fashions from Donald J. Pliner are both in store. Slip into some terrific new suedes at Kilgore Trout. You’ll look great and your feet may just say “Thanks, Buster!”

ASKFORUM I’ve been wearing leggings and skinny pants for the past few seasons; are they still in style?

Yes, slim pants are still in style. But so are softer, fuller models. For spring 2011, it’s all about proportion and balance. Choose either slim-fitting tops with tailored fuller pants, or go with volume on top balanced by a slimmer bottom. While there will always be exceptions, this is a good rule of thumb when you’re unsure. Better yet, come into the store and let us show you how it works.

Are shorts appropriate for the office?

As they say in real estate, it’s about location, location, location. Where you wear shorts and where the hem hits your leg should reflect dress codes at your company and within your particular industry. If you love wearing shorts and they meet with company standards, keep your peers focused on your work (and not your gams) by skipping the short shorts. And never go too bare on top when you’re wearing shorts—showing too much skin is a distraction and sends a less-than-professional message. Finally, keep your shoes casual, yet polished. A neutral wedge, fabric espadrille or cute flat works best. When in doubt about shorts at the office, don’t wear them. A skirt that hits just above the knee is a safer bet.

Definitely. Ruffles don’t have to be done in a big way. If you’re lucky enough to have height, larger ruffles work easily. If you’re petite, don’t let the ruffles overwhelm you: Look for mini ruffles as trim, or one or two soft, draping ruffles. In fact, a slightly ruffled blouse or tank is a great way to temper a too-rigid suit or blazer. The crisp white ruffled shirt is a wardrobe essential, but otherwise stick to drapey fabrics...so your ruffles won’t have ridges.

IMAGE COURTESY OF BOSS BLACK

I love ruffles but I’m neither tall nor skinny; can I wear them?

The trick is to first envision yourself at your weekend events and then edit down: there’s no shame in wearing the same thing twice and it’s worth it to avoid checking luggage. Here are a few more tips: • Wear the bulkiest pieces on the plane: the sportcoat or suit jacket, plus a sweater or coat. • Place a rolled up tie and socks in each shoe. Put shoes in a drawstring shoe bag (or a plain plastic bag) to protect your clothes. • Place the heaviest items at the bottom of the suitcase: shoes, sneakers, dopp kit and gadgets. Place rolled up T-shirts and underwear along the sides of the suitcase. • If you’re packing a suit or sportcoat, turn the jacket inside out and fold into quarters (the first fold should be across the center of the back). On arrival, hang it in the bathroom and take a steamy shower to remove creases. • Placing layers of tissue between clothes does not really do much. Instead, take plastic dry cleaning bags from your local store and place over each garment when on the hanger. Then slide the hanger out and fold. The plastic layer helps prevent wrinkles. Hang upon arrival and if needed, steam out in the bathroom while the shower is running and let it hang out overnight. As for specific items to bring, here are the general guidelines: 1 blazer or sportcoat 1 pair casual pants 1 woven shirt and/or shorts 2 knit shirts (polo or tee) 1 swimsuit 1 sweater, sweatshirt 1 pair comfortable shoes or light jacket 1 belt 1 pair jeans 2-3 pair socks and underwear

I’m confused: with slimmer pants in vogue, where should pants break these days?

For most narrow-leg flat-front styles, the bottom of the pants should stop an inch above the sole of the shoe. This creates a small break (a fold in the crease in the front of the pants) at the ankle. But for fashionistas, it’s fine to show some sock, which generally means exposing about an inch of ankle. For the record, pleated pants still look best with a cuff to balance out the fabric at the waist. And ironically, now that American men have finally gotten used to flat-fronts, European runways are showing pleats. But their trendier versions have excess fabric gathered at the waist, flowing into a very narrow leg. That said, we’re not expecting these carrot-shaped pants to catch on here for quite some time...if ever.

IMAGE BY JON MOE

ask forum

How do I pack for a weekend away? (It seems I need almost as much stuff for a weekend as for a full week….)

trends

not

SPRING 2011 RUNWAY LOOKS YOU SHOULDN’T TRY AT HOME.

TO WEAR

WHAT

IT’S OKAY TO ADD A POP OF COLOR TO YOUR OUTFIT, BUT TRY DOING IT WITH A BRIGHT SHIRT OR ACCESSORY INSTEAD OF SHINY PANTS.

LAYERING IS A TREND WE CAN GET BEHIND, BUT PLEASE, NO LEGGINGS!

Branch out from a boring black formalwear look, BUT BEWARE OF METALLIC OVERKILL. 30

ADD INTEREST WITH YOUR TIE OR VEST, OR TRY A CLASSIC TUX IN NAVY FOR SOMETHING THAT’S EYE-CATCHING BUT APPROPRIATE.

GETTY IMAGE.NET

We’re all for updating your denim, but go for a slimmer fit and a darker wash; avoid unnecessary bells and whistles.

SWIMSUITS SHOULD BE FUN, BUT LET’S FACE IT: FEW MEN CAN PULL OFF THESE TINY TRUNKS! 31

designer profile

lived-in LUXURY

BOGLIOLI DECONSTRUCTS THE MODERN SPORTCOAT. BY WILLIAM KISSEL Time, tradition brands were producing garand precision ment-dyed T-shirts, knitwear, “OUR GARMENT-DYED have long held or trousers, but no one had UN-CONSTRUCTED sway over the tried it on jackets,” recalls JACKETS HAVE Italian tailor’s youngest brother and creCREATED THE NEO-FORMAL STYLE craft. So when ative director Pierluigi FOR THE NEXT brothers Boglioli, who came up with GENERATION.” Mario, Stefano the idea to take a classic and Pierluigi Neapolitan-style jacket with all Boglioli defied tradition by taking its sartorial underpinnings and essential components (padding, toss it in the washer. Although the inner linings) out of the classic immediate results were not as he men’s jacket and then doing the had hoped, through trial and error unthinkable (garment washing it), and some construction tweaks, the third generation clothiers liter- the company eventually develally took the stuffiness out of oped its K Jacket, an un-conItalian suit making. The Boglioli structed cashmere blazer with a boys not only rethought how the washed look and the feel of a wellsuit is made, but how it’s worn. worn sweater. In the early 1990s, “many This spring Boglioli continues to

add to its list of accomplishments with the introduction of the Dover 2 jacket, a versatile topper incorporating small shoulder pads, and the K Jacket 2, which is updated in cashmere, linen and new cotton crepe versions. Though the company has a 100year history, it was the current generation, who began making clothing under their own family name in 2000, that gave the brand its international presence with their unsuit-like sense of style some have dubbed “worn-in luxury.” “I take pride in the fact that our garment-dyed or un-constructed jackets have created the neo-formal style for the next generation,” concludes Boglioli.

A heritage of Swedish design and innovation since 1928

accessories

ODE TO THE

POCKET SQUARE ITS ASSETS ARE ENDLESS AND ITS DRAWBACKS FEW. BY JILLIAN SPRAGUE

Unexpected Edge The classic way to don a pocket square is with a beautifully tailored suit. Here, it’s white linen in a three point fold. (Three and four point folds also pair well with double breasted blazers—a growing trend—since pointy peaks highlight the jacket’s architectural construction.) Extra style points to the man confident enough to add a small bloom to his lapel.

Fashionable men agree that accessorizing is the make-it-or-break-it of great style, and pocket squares are an effortless way to add interest to your look. They can be worn on almost any occasion (see the proof here) and they come in an incredible array of fabrics, patterns and colors. With such a plethora of options, we

Casual Cool Proof positive that pocket squares don’t have to be stuffy. Worn with a soft coat and linen shorts, the small peek of pattern is fun and makes the outfit feel finished. If you haven’t yet mastered the art of polished casual, it’s time to bring your wardrobe up to speed.

“Pocket squares are like the mood ring of men’s fashion!” —Tyler Mitchell, specialty store merchant

“YOU’LL GET APPROVING NODS FROM

OLDER GENTLEMEN FOR WHOM A POCKET SQUARE HAS ALWAYS BEEN LIKE A FRIEND. AND THE WOMEN YOU MEET…WELL, YOU WILL NOTICE A DIFFERENCE IN THEIR LINGERING GLANCES AND THE GLINT IN THEIR EYES AS THEY SURVEY YOUR ATTIRE.” —ASKMEN.COM

w w w. ro b e r t t a l b ot t . co m

IMAGES BY JULIE CARDINAL

RUNWAY IMAGES ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA. PRODUCT IMAGES ETRO

won’t bore you here with lists of folds (there are at least 15!) and step-by-step howto’s. The internet is a great resource for instructional videos and style inspiration, or better yet, come into the store and our expert stylists will teach you the basics and send you home with a square for every circumstance.

Photographed by JON MOE Produced by SUSAN F. SIDOR

BRIGHTEN UP! SPRING 2011 IS A SEASON TO LIGHTEN UP, BRIGHTEN UP AND HAVE SOME FUN. ENERGIZE YOUR WARDROBE (AND YOUR LIFE) WITH A SPLASH OF COLOR!

LIGHTEN UP!SOFT FABRICS IN PALE SUNDRENCHED SHADES REFLECT INNER PEACE AND SERENITY. IT’S TIME TO RELAX!

CHEER UP!BOLD COLORS ELEVATE YOUR MOOD. ONCE IN AWHILE, IT’S OKAY TO LIVE DANGEROUSLY…

LOOKING UP!MIX COLOR WITH WHITE FOR A CRISP CLEAN LOOK THAT’S MODERN, FRESH AND OH SO SEXY. IT’S WHAT YOU NEED NOW…

MARKET EDITOR: JOHN JONES; HAIR AND MAKEUP: LAUREN FRENDEN / ARTISTS BY TIMOTHY PRIANO; MODELS: STUART B-WILHELMINA MIAMI; JOSH JOHNSON-WILHELMINA MIAMI; FABRICIO ZUNINO-NEXT MODELS MAIMI; VALESKA-ELITE MODELS; LARISA-ELITE MIAMI; ASSOCIATE EDITOR: TARA FERRI; JEWELRY: ROBIN ROTINIER

CELEBRATING THE ICONIC BLUE BLAZER

A classic wardrobe staple, the quintessential blue blazer graduates from prep school to country club and travels with global sophistication.

Photographed by JON MOE Produced by SUSAN F. SIDOR

NAUTICAL EASE INTO SPRING WITH A KNIT BLAZER FOR THE ULTIMATE IN COMFORT AND COOL. PAIR IT WITH FURNISHINGS THAT POP, CRISP WHITE TROUSERS AND CLASSIC BOAT SHOES. YOU’RE READY FOR THE CAPTAIN’S TABLE

PREP COOL MINIMUM EFFORT, MAXIMUM IMPACT IN AN ITALIAN VERSION OF THE NAVY BLAZER, BOLD PIQUE KNIT POLO, ROLLED-UP TROUSERS AND CLASSIC SNEAKERS. DON’T FORGET THE EYEWEAR: BIGGER IS BETTER THIS SEASON

ASSOCIATE EDITOR: TARA FERRI; GROOMING: MARK LEYLAND; MODELS: PARKER HURLEY-RED MODEL MANAGEMENT; PAUL FRANCIS-Q MODELS; ASSISTANT: JULIO FRIAS; PROPS: PROPS FOR TODAY

EURO-LAYERED PILE IT ON, BUT GENTLY! START WITH A SOFT WHITE POLO, ADD A FINE COTTON SHIRT, SLIMCUT BLAZER, CARGO PANTS AND SUEDE WINGTIPS. CASUALLY DRAPE A CASHMERE SWEATER FOR GOOD MEASURE. MAGNIFICO!

SARTORIAL THE CLASSIC NAVY BLAZER PAIRED WITH BOLD SHIRT AND TIE, ELEGANT TROUSERS AND BROWN SUEDE SHOES TAKES YOU ANYWHERE AND EVERYWHERE, SCORING POINTS ALONG THE WAY

MODERN YOU CAN TRY THIS AT HOME! MIX A GREAT BLAZER WITH PREMIUM DENIM (DARK IS BEST), A PATTERNED SHIRT AND FABULOUS SHOES. FLAUNT YOUR PERSONAL STYLE AND MAKE THE BLAZER LOOK YOUR OWN

world scene

YOUR RIDE’S HERE

BRP

ead to the open road in BRP’s new CanAm Spyder RT. Powered by a Rotax 991 engine with electronic throttle control optimized for touring, the roadster features a BOSCH-engineered vehicle stability system, includng anti-lock brakes and traction control, so you don’t have to be a pro to ride. The latest models come with adjustable electric windshields to protect you from the elements. And so the well-dressed man can bring along his wardrobe, Can-Am offers fitted color-coordinated Spyder RT rolling luggage. Now that’s biker chic.

Experience life’s little luxuries. By Donald Charles Richardson

CORRALING THE RIGHT WINES

TEUBNER FOODFOTO - STOCKFOOD MUNICH / STOCKFOOD

ommelier Richard Patino from The French Room, at The Adolphus in Dallas, offers perfect pairing suggestions for your upcoming barbecues. For a wonderful white, there’s Francois Pinon Cuvée Silex Noir, Vouvray 2008, a Chenin Blanc from France’s Loire Valley that is slightly “off-dry” but retains bright acidity to complement sweet honey BBQ sauce. Another is Au Bon Climat Chardonnay, Santa Maria Valley 2008, which matches well with chicken or shellfish. For summer reds, try d’Arenberg Footbolt Shiraz, McLaren Vale 2008, a 100 percent Shiraz from Australia. This wine has red fruit aromas with spicy undertones, so it pairs well with short ribs. For beef or pork, drink A. Rafanelli Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley 2008, with characteristics of jammy fruit and a hint of black pepper. At fancy occasions, Patino suggests Domaine De La Solitude, Côtes du Rhône Rosé 2009. But, he says, the perfect BBQ wine is Lambert Bridge Forchini Vineyard Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley 2007. This versatile Zinfandel is equally amazing with baby back ribs, brisket, or cheeseburgers.

Austin-Lehman Adventures specializes in explorations that combine outdoor activities such as hiking, rafting and horseback riding with nights spent at distinctive inns. Or they’ll craft a special trip and you can see the sights in your own way. For a family reunion, the company flew guests to a Montana ranch where they enjoyed fishing lessons, horseback riding and a tour of Yellowstone National Park led by a private wildlife expert. On another occasion, the company arranged for a gentleman to treat his twin grandsons to six national parks in five days by private jet. And when a Chicago businessman wanted a unique celebration for his wife’s 60th birthday, Austin-Lehman set up cocktails in the surf of Kauai at sunset and sent a helicopter to release hundreds of pounds of rose petals around the couple as they toasted. Where in the world do you want to go?

AUSTIN-LEHMAN

THE CONTINUING ADVENTURES OF...YOU

JOE TABACCA PHOTOGRAPHY

LEFT TO YOUR OWN DEVICES The CEO of a Fortune 500 company wanted a TV he could view from his bathroom sink, but didn’t want to see it when not in use. Joshua Rich, president of Rich AV Design, which specializes in unique and one-of-a-kind electronic installations, created a vanity mirror that turns into a television. When the TV is off, it’s a regular bathroom mirror; when the TV is on, a portion of the mirror becomes a 19” HDTV. Rich has also handled the installation of custom anamorphic movie screens that adapt to the varying aspect ratios of movies and TV shows, and arranged media rooms with motorized chairs and automated lights. He can even make a ‘butt remote,’ a simple control that powers on your entire home theater when you sit on the sofa. It gives the term ‘smartass’ a whole new meaning.

HELLAS BENT

KISTERNA HOTEL, HISTORIC HOTELS OF GREECE

bout four hours from Athens, in the Greek Peloponnese, is one of the most fascinating hotels in Greece: the Kinsterna Hotel and Spa. Once the estate of an Ottoman judge, now grandly refurbished and elevated to membership in the Historic Hotels of Greece, this Byzantine-era mansion sits on the side of a hill, sequestered amid vineyards and olive and citrus groves, facing Monemvasia Castle and the Aegean. The main buildings are a historical assortment of Byzantine, Ottoman, Venetian and modern Greek architecture. Inside the restored stone walls the 27 suites have fireplaces and marble bathrooms, the spa offers a purifying traditional Ottoman hammam, and the swimming pool begins as a brook feeding off the ancient cistern and grows to run like a river through centuries-old orange trees. Opened just last year, the Kinsterna has already become popular with celebrities and heads of state who relish the solitude of the tranquil Mediterranean environment.

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drink

A FEW BAD APPLES (OR IN THIS CASE, GRAPES) GAVE A GOOD WINE A NOT-SOGOOD REPUTATION.

A WINE BY ANY OTHER NAME

Italian wine” in 1984’s The Signet Encyclopedia of Wine. But mass production of cheap, low-quality product flooded the U.S. market (most blame the Bolla cooperative) and tarnished the Soave name. Thirty years later, wine culture has become a huge part of our culinary experience. Though more Americans today are wine drinkers, those who don’t have a negative perception of Soave have likely never heard of it at all. A challenge for the region’s wine producers, but also a rare opportunitiy to introduce

n the 1970s and ’80s, Soave was synonymous with Italian white wine, much as Chianti was the Italian red. A recent article in the Wall Street Journal points out that Soave had even been described as “America’s favorite white

IMAGES BY TRACY HOWARD

CAN SOAVE REGAIN ITS PLACE AS THE MOST POPULAR WHITE WINE IN AMERICA? BY JILLIAN SPRAGUE

coppley.com

this generation of wine lovers to something “new.” Located just east of Verona at the base of the Lessini Mountains, Soave is a small town that, despite its size, is home to over 3,000 wine producers. It has a proud tradition of winemaking dating back to the Middle Ages, and many of the family-owned vineyards have not changed hands for centuries. In Soave, like much of the Veneto region it is a part of, houses, roads and olive trees are the only things left uncovered by vines. A few wild poppies scattered among the neatly planted rows are the only contrast to the lush green. Of the 12,000 hectares of land between Verona and Venice, 8,000 are planted with

vineyards. Each hectare contains between 3,500 and 5,000 individual vines, resulting in the most concentrated coverage in all of Italy. So it’s no surprise that Soave still produces the largest volume of white wine in the country, and is the third largest wine producing area overall. 60 to 70 million bottles are produced each year, about 60 to 70 percent of which are exported. With so many growers and such

a large output, there are obvious challenges to controlling standards of production. The Consorzio di Tutela Soave is an organization of producers dedicated to doing just that, as well as promoting Soave wines throughout the world. Over the last five years, they have redoubled their efforts to increase quality and recapture the hearts (and palates) of American wine drinkers. Says Giovanni Ponchia, the con-

sortium’s oenologist, “Good wines have been made here all along, and enjoyed in many parts of the world. We want to keep doing what we do best but always improve the balance between the volume of output and the quality of the product.” Production of Soave is, in fact, tightly controlled. Grapes are carefully grown in well-defined regions according to strict traditions. 70 percent of the wine must be comprised of the Garganega grape, and the other 30 percent can be made up of Chardonnay or Trebbiano. (The trend in recent years is towards Trebbiano, and the highest quality wines are often 100 percent Garganega.) Most growers in the region use the pergola veronese trellising method, in which wooden canopies two meters tall train the vines upward, then outward. This allows the clusters to spread out, so the wind can blow between each

grape to keep them dry without knocking them off the vine. Once bottled, wines are aged for an average of one to three years before being released onto the market, and are meant to be drunk young (though under the right conditions some have aged surprisingly well). Soave wines range in color from pale to straw yellow and have a fruity-floral nose, with notes of citrus, balanced acidity and a strong finish. Soave pairs well with aged cheeses and light seafood dishes, and the consortium hopes to convince American consumers that their wines are a fresh alternative to Pinot Grigio, whose market in the U.S. has become oversaturated and overpriced. Ponchia says that 2009 was one

of the best growing seasons in the past 10 years, which means some excellent wines are hitting the shelves now, and well worth a try at pricepoints around $20. “We don’t have to ignore history,” he says. “We can’t take anything away from Bolla; they were, after all, the first to introduce Soave to America. But we want to bring back order and seriousness to the business of winemaking. We’ve learned from our mistakes. For those who appreciate and recognize quality, now is the time to give Soave a second chance.”

inspiration

FASHION, GLAMOUR AND STYLE, THEN AND NOW. BY CALLY JAMIS VENNARE

Warhollook

More than two decades after his untimely death, Andy Warhol’s bold imprint on fashion remains strong and vibrant. Then and now, The Warhol Look reflects the artist’s distinct blend of fashion, glamour and style. And no matter how it’s framed—runway show, museum exhibition, window display, or magazine illustration— Warhol’s work has a uniquely timeless appeal. In the second half of the 20th century, The Warhol Look reigned supreme. The artist’s influence crossed genres, genders and generations as his work grew more expansive and popular. It was controversial. It was iconic, yet contemporary. And it constantly changed to reflect the times...just as Warhol had hoped. His diversity of styles (those he created through his art as well as embodied in appearance and demeanor) still offer limitless inspiration for today’s artisans. Pop Art has been “embraced and disseminated by the fashion industry,” says art historian Marco Livingstone. Warhol’s bold color palette,

the

strongly influenced by his vast Fiestaware collection, is considered at the same time nostalgic and nouveau. And his glamorous subjects—Marilyn Monroe, Elizabeth Taylor and Edie Sedgwick to name but a few—still

fascinate and inspire designs on and off the runway. According to Alice Mackrell’s book Art and Fashion, designer Yves Saint Laurent considered his great friend Warhol to be “inspiring in everything he did.” For

Warhol Self Portrait, nine canvases 1966

other top photographers and the woman who introduced Warhol to Mick Jagger), leggy Donyale Luna (the first African-American supermodel), icy Nico (a former model turned musician with ties to Bob Dylan, Brian Jones, and ultimately, The Velvet Underground), and Ivy Nicholson (a top cover girl of the early 1960s).

Betsey Johnson and other accomplished designers, the Warhol Look was manifested in dresses made from paper, plastic and metal. Other prominent examples include Jean-Charles de Castelbajac’s vibrant dresses printed with Warhol motifs, Gianni Versace’s “Marilyn Monroe” dress and Philip Treacy’s limited edition collection of hats and bags featuring iconic Warhol images. And at spring 2011 New York Fashion Week, Diane von Furstenberg channeled her very own Andy Warhol portrait through blaring pink lips on the otherwise fresh faces of her runway models. “At some point in the creative process we pulled the picture,” noted von Furstenberg on stylelist.com. “I was young in the ’70s and all these clothes remind me of my youth.” Warhol’s influence reached further than fashion, to commercial and fine art, filmmaking, and publishing. In fact, his Interview magazine is considered by many to be the pinnacle of the artist’s obsession with style. “Interview was the first pop culture magazine,” says Paige Powell, its former associate publisher. “It set trends rather than followed them. It was in the moment, not dated.” Not surprisingly, Warhol’s passion for celebrity led to his creation of Interview. “He wanted to be part of the city in a bigger way…and felt if he had a film magazine, they would let him into the premieres. And they did!” Moreover, The Warhol Look (the catalog supporting the 1997 to 1999 exhibition of the same name) also established that “today’s merging of art and fashion is in large measure the legacy of Andy

GLAMOUR & FILM In 1965 Warhol made more than 10 films (and numerous public appearances) with Edie Sedgwick, the trendsetting tragic beauty who is still regarded as a fashion icon. The films include Beauty #2, Poor Little Rich Girl, Face, Lupe and Kitchen, among others.

Warhol” and that “fashion is the connective tissue joining what previously appeared as disparate elements” in his work. The Andy Warhol Museum, which organized the exhibition The Warhol Look, is one of the most comprehensive single-artist museums in the world. At the end of their 15th anniversary celebration, the museum’s former director, Tom Sokolowski, and archival staff provided the following examples to give us a deeper appreciation of Warhol’s expansive footprint.

DESIGNERS & TELEVISION After years of socializing with fashion designers such as Halston (whose cocktail dress of light, slinky fabric was printed with Warhol’s bold, bright 1965 Flowers image), in 1979 Warhol produced a multipart television series titled Fashion, which focused on the work of the top designers of the day. In later TV series in the mid1980s, Andy Warhol’s TV and Andy Warhol’s Fifteen Minutes, Warhol continued to present the work of (at the time) current designers such as Stephen Sprouse, who based an entire season’s line on Warhol’s Camouflage paintings. To learn more, visit The Warhol in downtown Pittsburgh, or go to www.warhol.org.

TODAY’S MERGING OF ART AND FASHION IS IN LARGE MEASURE THE LEGACY OF ANDY WARHOL.

MODELS & MUSIC In the mid-1960s, Warhol featured many fashion models in his films. This was especially evident in his series of Screen Test portrait films that included blonde “Baby Jane” Holzer (a sought-after fashion model among David Bailey and

The Souper Dress, paper 1966-67

humor

Women are compulsive shoppers. It’s more than a passion; it’s an addiction. Last week, as we were dressing to go out, I watched helplessly as my wife tried on a dozen pairs of black pants, ripping each off her body as she became increasingly frantic. “Nothing works!” she cried in frustration, as she asked me which looked best. Knowing this was a trick question, I told her only that they all looked fine. She eyed me skeptically like I was denying a felony charge for which she had hard evidence. “The skinny pants make me look fat; I don’t have the right boots for the boot cut pair; the flannel trousers are too heavy for this weather! How can you possibly say they look fine?” Now I’m starting to understand: she not only discerns difference among them, but she actually believes these nuances matter! Perhaps this explains why she owns dozens of black jackets and white blouses and infinite pairs of jeans, not to mention the shoes and handbags.... The following Saturday evening, I put on a pair of gray trousers. They have lots of pleats, and suddenly, I’m not feeling so many pleats. I pull out another pair, which seem fine until I put them on and notice that the cuffs are dragging on the floor. (Either the pants grew or I shrunk….) Since there are no more gray pants in my closet, I take out some black ones, only to notice that the fabric has become inexplicably shiny. And when I throw on the navy blazer, it’s obvious (even to me) that it would look much better with gray pants. At that moment, my wife walks in from shopping, exuberant and exhausted. “I’ve found the perfect black pants,” she exclaims with a sense of joy I’d not heard from her since I proposed 20 years ago. And for the first time in all those years, I understand her excitement. “Next time,” I suggest with trepidation, “maybe I’ll come with you....”

SOMETIMES, STYLISTIC NUANCES DO MATTER.

’ve figured out the main difference between men and women. It’s not that men can’t watch TV without tapping the remote, not that women prefer foreplay to actual sex, and not that men can’t communicate (though these things may be true). After getting gradually crowded out of every closet (and every drawer in every dresser), the difference is clear:

WOMEN HAVE IT, MEN COULD USE IT… BY MIKE SAMUELS

TRUNK ARCHIVE / DANIEL JACKSON

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