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CONTENTS

ELEMENTS OF SPRING 2011 EDITORIAL MEN’S FASHION DIRECTOR Mario Bisio WOMEN’S FASHION DIRECTOR Lynwood Holmberg DESIGN / CONCEPT / PHOTO ART DIRECTOR Steve Kennevan MARKETING MANAGER Rachel Stroble CREATIVE DIRECTOR Patrick Angus FASHION / PRODUCT PHOTOGRAPHER Darrell Peterson

FORUM FEATURE ARTICLES PORTLAND MARIO’S MEN + WOMEN 833 SW Broadway Portland, OR 97205 503.227.3477 BRIDGEPORT VILLAGE MARIO’S 3.10 17031 SW 72nd Avenue Tigard, OR 97224 503.601.7310

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN DESIGN DIRECTOR HANS GSCHLIESSER MANAGING EDITOR JILLIAN SPRAGUE PROJECT MANAGER LISA MONTEMORRA DESIGNERS CYNTHIA LUCERO, JEAN-NICOLE VENDITTI PRODUCTION MANAGER

SEATTLE MARIO’S MEN + WOMEN 1513 6th Avenue Seattle, WA 98101 206.223.1461 MARIOS.COM Find us on Facebook

PEG EADIE DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS HUGH K. STANTON

BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER STUART NIFOUSSI PRESIDENT AND CEO BRITTON JONES CHAIRMAN AND COO MAC BRIGHTON

FEATURES 7 8 12 62

Welcome Letter Hip Happenings Cut from the Same Cloth Inspiration: The Warhol Look

CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER CHRISTINE SULLIVAN APPAREL FORUM ANDRISEN MORTON DENVER, CO GARYS NEWPORT BEACH, CA HUBERT WHITE MINNEAPOLIS, MN KILGORE TROUT CLEVELAND, OH LARRIMOR’S PITTSBURGH, PA

FASHION 14 50 53 58 60 66 68

Elements of Spring 2011 Forward Thinking: Hugo Boss Celebrating the Iconic Blue Blazer Accessories: Ode to the Pocket Square Lived-in Luxury: Boglioli Fashion Index No Ordinary Middle Man: Isaia

MALOUF’S LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX MARIO’S PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WA MITCHELLS/MARSHS HUNTINGTON, NY MITCHELLS/RICHARDS WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT OAK HALL MEMPHIS, TN RODES LOUISVILLE, KY RUBENSTEINS NEW ORLEANS, LA STANLEY KORSHAK DALLAS, TX WILKES BASHFORD SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA

DEPARTMENTS

Published by Business Journals, Inc, P.O. Box 5550, Norwalk, CT 06856,

44 In Store: Events and Services 46 Ask Mario 48 Ask Lynwood

1384 Broadway, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • Fax: 212-686-6821

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ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. The publishers accept no responsibilities for advertisers’ claims, unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies or other materials. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission of the publishers. Volume 14, Issue 1. Printed In The U.S.A

*chic inconventionnel

This spring, fashion’s in a good mood — and so are we. And why not? At Mario’s, we just celebrated our 50th Anniversary, a wonderful milestone. And we owe it all to you: our valued customers who have supported us so loyally throughout the years. And our vendors: yes, you represent some of the most celebrated names in fashion, but you’re also some of the greatest people we know. And finally, we want to thank our amazing staff. The heart and soul of Mario’s, these dedicated professionals truly love what they do. And we think you’ll agree, their passion shows. So here’s to a bright outlook and the elements of spring 2011. This is fresh, wearable fashion that evokes confidence and makes you happy. Now more than ever, it’s time to live with passion. Play with style. And be inspired.

Brunello Cucinelli

HIP HAPPENINGS Parties, People & Fashion

Hugo Boss AG Adriano Goldscmied

Hudson Jeans

Isaia Napoli

paulshark.it

MADE IN ITALY

TO BE ONE OF A KIND

13 years Scott Stutznegger

years Eva Sergeeff

years Emily Calderwood

16 years Donne Gordon

10 years Christa Carlson

22 years Karen Degman

years Loan Lam

years Mai Lee

years Audrey Anderson

years Thao Hoang-Nguyen

13 years Micah Fritz

years Zach Karanasos

years Palinee Tantikulanta

12 years Patrick Angus

18 years Summer Jameson

10 years Sandy Orsillo

â&#x20AC;&#x153;I sell the most beautiful clothing in the

years Kathy Blake

years Kelly DeGrate

20 years Lynwood Holmberg

13 years Simon Chan

11 years Chris Poullos

a legacy of dedication

10 years Ivy Jensen

11 12

years Sue Goffard

years Laurel Williams

13 years Bessie Callis

10 years Soozee Yee

Everyone at Mario’s—from our talented tailors to our buyers and salespeople— shares a passion for the very best. This common thread binds us together in everything we do. And we know that, like a finely crafted garment, every detail is key. So we’d like to take this opportunity to salute our entire team of talented professionals—and highlight those who have contributed more than 10 years of loyal service.

28 years Elaine Ford

world to the nicest people in town.”— Sue Goffard

Vince

MonclerMoncleer AG G AGoldschmied driano Goldschmied AG Adriano 15

Peter Cohen Paige Premium Denim

LIVE WITH PASSION, PLAY WITH STYLE

Diesel

Irene Neuwirth

Narciso Rodriguez

BOSS Orange

Lanvin Paris

Isaia Napoli

MAKE A BIG

SPLASH Hudson Collection

Stone Island Hudson

Etro

Ralph Lauren Black Label 25

Steven Alan Edwin

Brunello Cucinelli

BLUE SKIES AHEAD 27

Dean Harris

A NATURAL MATCH

L’Agence

Paul Smith Agave

sel BlaackDiesel Gooldd Black Gold

Alberto Fermani

B.May Metallic Python Clutch

Clare Tough Ribbon Trimmed Twinset

Forever-chic styles look

Twenty Tiered Tank

Alberto Fermani Suede Open-Toe Sandal

Moncler Casadei

Cropped Military Jacket

Strappy Platform Sandal

Clare Tough Embroidered Sheer Twinset

Casadei Jeweled Metallic Sandal 33

Edun

YOUR FAVORITE SKINNIES now so fresh in colored denim or true blues

AG Adriano Goldschmied

7 for all Mankind

Hudson

Boss Black $175

Will Leather Goods $145

John Varvatos $175

Masonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s $150 to

$165

Lacoste Vintage $ 85

Walkover $225

Mulholland $ 325 AG Adriano Goldschmied $225

Hudson $165 37

Row e h T

TT hehe Row Ro w

SMILE, it’s BOSS Black

Jason Wu

Hugo Boss

FINESSED TO IMPRESS

Jil Sander

Ermenegildo Zegna

EVENTS

Here’s just some of the excitement in store for you.

Ermenegildo Zegna Spring 2011 M-2-M* Trunk Show Men Friday, March 18 (Downtown Portland) Saturday, March 19 (Downtown Seattle)

Isaia Spring 2011 M-2-M* Trunk Show Men Friday, March 4 (Downtown Seattle) Saturday, March 5 (Downtown Portland)

Helmut Lang Spring 2011 Event Women Thursday, March 24 (Downtown Portland) Saturday, March 26 (Downtown Seattle)

MAR.10 Event (Mar.10 spells MARIO) Men & Women Thursday, March 10 (Downtown Seattle, Downtown Portland and Bridgeport Village)

Dean Harris Jewelry Trunk Show & Personal Appearance Women Friday, April 1 to Saturday, April 2 (Downtown Seattle)

Brunello Cucinelli Fall 2011 Trunk Show Men Friday, March 11 to Saturday, March 12 (Downtown Seattle)

Brunello Cucinelli Fall 2011 Trunk Show

Bontoni Shoes M-2-M* Event Men

Friday, April 1 to Saturday, April 2 (Downtown Portland) Men & Women Tuesday, April 26 to Wednesday, April 27 (Downtown Seattle) Women

Thursday, March 17 to Friday, March 18 (Downtown Portland) Saturday, March 19 (Downtown Seattle) All dates and times are subject to change. Please visit marios.com for our most current information. *M-2-M = Made-2-Measure.

The Row Fall 2011 Trunk Show Women Thursday, April 7 (Downtown Portland) Friday, April 8 (Downtown Seattle)

SERVICES Stay Current at marios.com

Made-2-Measure

Shoe Repair

Find the latest information on designer fashions for both men and women as well as jewelry, apothecary, gifts, special events and personal appearances. In addition, see our recommendations for living in style, including our favorite restaurants, hotels, spas, salons and entertainment. Sign up for email today. Increase sustainability and reduce mail.

Select the fit, fabric and other details to complement your personal style. We offer a wide variety of models and fabrications, so you can be your own designer. Plus, we will keep your measurements on file and update them for you as needed.

For your convenience, we will arrange the repair of any footwear purchased in our stores.

Personal Shopping Welcome to our store–we’ll happily take your coat and offer you a complimentary beverage. And if you like, one of our sales associates can pre-select garments that fit your style and notify you of their arrival.

Home Delivery & Shopping We can arrange to ship anywhere in the United States. Or, if you’re in town, we can also set up a courier service for you.

We Gladly Accept

Mario’s Gift Cards Gift cards are available for any amount you like—tastefully presented and ready to give.

Store Hours

Gift Wrap

Our on-site tailors will work with you and your sales associate to create the perfect fit customized just for you.

Enjoy complimentary gift wrap in our signature packaging with all of your Mario’s purchases.

We can arrange for cleaning or expert repair service for any jewelry that has been purchased in our stores.

Debit Cards, American Express, Diner’s Club, Discover, MasterCard, Visa as well as International Visa.

Complimentary Tailoring

Find us on Facebook.

Jewelry Cleaning & Repair

Portland & Seattle Monday to Saturday Sunday Bridgeport Village Monday to Saturday Sunday

10 to 6 12 to 5 10 to 6:30 12 to 6

40923 HOODED JACKET IN ULTRA LIGHT MATTE NYLON, LAMINATED WITH A WATERPROOF, WINDPROOF AND BREATHABLE MEMBRANE. DIAGONAL ZIPFASTENING POCKETS EDGED WITH TAPE. APPLIQUÉ OF TWO PARALLEL VERTICAL STRINGS ON THE FRONT UNDER THE COLLAR. ZIP FASTENING EDGED WITH TAPE. GARMENT DYED.

ASKMARIO Q:

I’m confused: with slimmer pants in vogue, where should pants break these days?

For most narrow-leg flatfront styles, the bottom of the pants should stop an inch above the sole of the shoe. This creates a small break (a fold in the crease in the front of the pants) at the ankle. But for fashionistas, it’s fine to show some sock, which generally means exposing about an inch of ankle. For the record, pleated pants still look best with a cuff to balance out the fabric at the waist. And ironically, now that American men have finally gotten used to flat-fronts, European runways are showing pleats. But their trendier versions have excess fabric gathered at the waist, flowing into a very narrow leg. That said, we’re not expecting these carrotshaped pants to catch on for quite some time...if ever.

How do I pack for a weekend away? (It seems I need almost as much stuff for a weekend as for a full week….)

MARIO ANSWERS YOUR PRESSING STYLE QUESTIONS.

The trick is to first envision yourself at your weekend events and then edit down: there’s no shame in wearing the same thing twice and it’s worth it to avoid checking luggage. Here are a few more tips: • Wear the bulkiest pieces on the plane: the sportcoat or suit jacket, plus a sweater or coat. • Place a rolled up tie and socks in each shoe. Put shoes in a drawstring shoe bag (or a plain plastic bag) to protect your clothes. • Place the heaviest items at the bottom of the suitcase: shoes, sneakers, dopp kit and gadgets. Place rolled up T-shirts and underwear along the sides of the suitcase. • If you’re packing a suit or sportcoat, turn the jacket inside out and fold into quarters (the first fold should be across the center of the back). On arrival, hang it in the bathroom and take a steamy shower to remove creases. • Placing layers of tissue between clothes does not really do much. Instead, take plastic dry cleaning bags from your local store and place over each garment when on the hanger. Then slide the hanger out and fold. The plastic layer helps prevent wrinkles. Hang upon arrival and if needed, steam out in the bathroom while the shower is running and let it hang out overnight. As for specific items to bring, here are the general guidelines: 1 blazer or sportcoat 1 woven shirt 2 knit shirts (polo or tee) 1 sweater, sweatshirt or light jacket 1 pair jeans

1 pair casual pants and/or shorts 1 swimsuit 1 pair comfortable shoes 1 belt 2-3 pair socks and underwear

ASKLYNWOOD I love skinny jeans, but what are some of my other options for spring?

MARIO’S STYLE SAVVY FASHION DIRECTOR HELPS WITH YOUR FASHION DILEMMAS.

Think skirts! Pencil skirts look fresh again and work well with those longer soft tops you wear with leggings. Long print skirts and dresses are a fun, easy way to go; floral prints from Suno or jungle sarongs from Lanvin look great with simple T-shirts or tank tops layered with a shawl or cardigan. There are also lots of easy, soft cotton cropped pants and cargo options (like the 7 For All Mankind pair pictured at left) at both contemporary and designer pricepoints. The Row and Cucinelli also offer comfortable choices with lots of fit options. High-waisted pants with a slight flare are also an on-trend silhouette, best worn with a wedge shoe and pretty printed blouse.

I travel for business and would love to find versatile pieces that don’t wrinkle; any ideas? You can’t go wrong with natural fabrics. Pack in plastic bags or good travel bags; you can always hang out your clothes in a steamy bathroom for a quick refresh. For maximum ease, stick to one neutral color story (black, navy, beige) for your base and then pop some color for fun. Depending on your business, take a suit in a lightweight stretch wool from Akris or Hugo Boss and/or a little black dress (making a comeback) from Jason Wu. A print jersey dress from Pucci or Thakoon is also a great piece for travel and nice for a special dinner. Add a cardigan from Clare Tough, Casmari or Prada and a stretch cotton white shirt from Cucinelli and you’re set! Also for travel, a raincoat from Moncler is a must! A new trench with ruffles or gathers packs well and easily layers over your knits and suits. The new higher waist bootcut jeans are great to travel in, especially with a knit top and raincoat. Add your favorite boots and/or mid-high heels, a colorful scarf form Faliero Sarti and a Celine travel bag and you’re good to go anywhere!

What are the must-have accessories for spring 2011? This season, bags and shoes are about color and texture. Choices run form ladylike to bohemian. Check out the beautiful sea blues and greens from Prada and Bottega Veneta or the beaded jewel earth tones from Manolo Blahnik and Christian Louboutin. There are many flat options to choose from, as well as strappy sandals in snakes and lizards or bright citrus colors. Tall, embellished strappy heels are still happening, both in color and neutrals. (You might need both!) Big totes are still important and practical, often in textures or colors. And there’s lots of newness in mid-size clutches and smaller print bags (B. May is one of our favorites). Check them out, and remember: the accessories make the look!

designer profile

“STICKING TO A TRIMMER SILHOUETTE CAN MAKE ANY MAN LOOK INSTANTLY YOUNGER.”

FORWARD THINKING THEY MAKE GREAT CLOTHES, BUT HUGO BOSS IS MUCH MORE THAN FASHION. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN As luxury companies strive to update product and image, one company stands as a paragon of all that is modern, edgy, urbane. Hugo Boss, founded in 1924 and headquartered in Metzingen, Germany, has long been the essence of international style and the source of directional trends. How to maintain this distinction? For Hugo Boss, it’s a focus on fashion, but also art, culture, sports, celebrity, philanthropy, all key elements of fine living. Here, we speak with their U.S. president Mark Brashear about current and future business.

What are the most important items and trends for men in spring 2011? Two important directions are: 1) denim-driven sportswear from BOSS Orange, and 2) BOSS Green, which is active, technical sportswear.

What do most men do wrong when dressing? Men tend to want suits that are a size too big, thinking that loose is comfortable. They don’t realize that oversized is not flattering.

Sticking to a trimmer silhouette with flat-front pants can make any man look instantly younger.

What’s new and exciting in your women’s collections? The BOSS Orange collection continues to expand. Inspired by the warm weather of L.A., it offers lightweight tops for layering over jeans or flowy skirts. BOSS Black showcases stylish daywear in muted colors, punched up with great accessories. Our ad campaign, shot by Mario Sorrenti featuring Mark Vanderloo and Racquel Zimmerman, reflects the line’s sexy sophistication and has been incredibly well received.

What’s next for BOSS? We recently signed a multi-year sponsorship of Madison Square Garden and the New York Knicks. We continue to sponsor the prestigious Hugo Boss Prize at the Guggenheim museum. And today more than ever, we’re using market intelligence to ensure our customers get all they expect from our brands. The ability to deliver on our promises is a cornerstone for today and tomorrow.

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A heritage of Swedish design and innovation since 1928

SARTORIAL THE CLASSIC NAVY BLAZER PAIRED WITH BOLD SHIRT AND TIE, ELEGANT TROUSERS AND BROWN SUEDE SHOES TAKES YOU ANYWHERE AND EVERYWHERE, SCORING POINTS ALONG THE WAY

CELEBRATING THE ICONIC BLUE BLAZER

A classic wardrobe staple, the quintessential blue blazer graduates from prep school to country club and travels with global sophistication. Photographed by JON MOE Produced by SUSAN F. SIDOR

NAUTICAL EASE INTO SPRING WITH A KNIT BLAZER FOR THE ULTIMATE IN COMFORT AND COOL. PAIR IT WITH FURNISHINGS THAT POP, CRISP WHITE TROUSERS AND CLASSIC BOAT SHOES. YOU’RE READY FOR THE CAPTAIN’S TABLE

ASSOCIATE EDITOR: TARA FERRI; GROOMING: MARK LEYLAND; MODELS: PARKER HURLEY-RED MODEL MANAGEMENT; PAUL FRANCIS-Q MODELS; ASSISTANT: JULIO FRIAS; PROPS: PROPS FOR TODAY

EURO-LAYERED PILE IT ON, BUT GENTLY! START WITH A SOFT WHITE POLO, ADD A FINE COTTON SHIRT, SLIMCUT BLAZER, CARGO PANTS AND SUEDE WINGTIPS. CASUALLY DRAPE A CASHMERE SWEATER FOR GOOD MEASURE. MAGNIFICO!

PREP COOL MINIMUM EFFORT, MAXIMUM IMPACT IN AN ITALIAN VERSION OF THE NAVY BLAZER, BOLD PIQUE KNIT POLO, ROLLED-UP TROUSERS AND CLASSIC SNEAKERS. DON’T FORGET THE EYEWEAR: BIGGER IS BETTER THIS SEASON

MODERN YOU CAN TRY THIS AT HOME! MIX A GREAT BLAZER WITH PREMIUM DENIM (DARK IS BEST), A PATTERNED SHIRT AND FABULOUS SHOES. FLAUNT YOUR PERSONAL STYLE AND MAKE THE BLAZER LOOK YOUR OWN

accessories

ODE TO THE

POCKET SQUARE ITS ASSETS ARE ENDLESS AND ITS DRAWBACKS FEW. BY JILLIAN SPRAGUE

Unexpected Edge The classic way to don a pocket square is with a beautifully tailored suit. Here, it’s white linen in a three point fold. (Three and four point folds also pair well with double breasted blazers—a growing trend—since pointy peaks highlight the jacket’s architectural construction.) Extra style points to the man confident enough to add a small bloom to his lapel.

Fashionable men agree that accessorizing is the make-it-or-break-it of great style, and pocket squares are an effortless way to add interest to your look. They can be worn on almost any occasion (see the proof here) and they come in an incredible array of fabrics, patterns and colors. With such a plethora of options, we

Casual Cool Proof positive that pocket squares don’t have to be stuffy. Worn with a soft coat and linen shorts, the small peek of pattern is fun and makes the outfit feel finished. If you haven’t yet mastered the art of polished casual, it’s time to bring your wardrobe up to speed.

“Pocket squares are like the mood ring of men’s fashion!” —Tyler Mitchell, specialty store merchant

RUNWAY IMAGES ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA. PRODUCT IMAGES ETRO

won’t bore you here with lists of folds (there are at least 15!) and step-by-step howto’s. The internet is a great resource for instructional videos and style inspiration, or better yet, come into the store and our expert stylists will teach you the basics and send you home with a square for every circumstance.

“YOU’LL GET APPROVING NODS FROM

OLDER GENTLEMEN FOR WHOM A POCKET SQUARE HAS ALWAYS BEEN LIKE A FRIEND. AND THE WOMEN YOU MEET…WELL, YOU WILL NOTICE A DIFFERENCE IN THEIR LINGERING GLANCES AND THE GLINT IN THEIR EYES AS THEY SURVEY YOUR ATTIRE.” —ASKMEN.COM

w w w. ro b e r t t a l b ot t . co m

designer profile

lived-in LUXURY

BOGLIOLI DECONSTRUCTS THE MODERN SPORTCOAT. BY WILLIAM KISSEL Time, tradition brands were producing garand precision ment-dyed T-shirts, knitwear, “OUR GARMENT-DYED have long held or trousers, but no one had UN-CONSTRUCTED sway over the tried it on jackets,” recalls JACKETS HAVE Italian tailor’s youngest brother and creCREATED THE NEO-FORMAL STYLE craft. So when ative director Pierluigi FOR THE NEXT brothers Boglioli, who came up with GENERATION.” Mario, Stefano the idea to take a classic and Pierluigi Neapolitan-style jacket with all Boglioli defied tradition by taking its sartorial underpinnings and essential components (padding, toss it in the washer. Although the inner linings) out of the classic immediate results were not as he men’s jacket and then doing the had hoped, through trial and error unthinkable (garment washing it), and some construction tweaks, the third generation clothiers liter- the company eventually develally took the stuffiness out of oped its K Jacket, an un-conItalian suit making. The Boglioli structed cashmere blazer with a boys not only rethought how the washed look and the feel of a wellsuit is made, but how it’s worn. worn sweater. In the early 1990s, “many This spring Boglioli continues to

add to its list of accomplishments with the introduction of the Dover 2 jacket, a versatile topper incorporating small shoulder pads, and the K Jacket 2, which is updated in cashmere, linen and new cotton crepe versions. Though the company has a 100year history, it was the current generation, who began making clothing under their own family name in 2000, that gave the brand its international presence with their unsuit-like sense of style some have dubbed “worn-in luxury.” “I take pride in the fact that our garment-dyed or un-constructed jackets have created the neo-formal style for the next generation,” concludes Boglioli.

inspiration

FASHION, GLAMOUR AND STYLE, THEN AND NOW. BY CALLY JAMIS VENNARE

Warhollook

More than two decades after his untimely death, Andy Warhol’s bold imprint on fashion remains strong and vibrant. Then and now, The Warhol Look reflects the artist’s distinct blend of fashion, glamour and style. And no matter how it’s framed—runway show, museum exhibition, window display, or magazine illustration— Warhol’s work has a uniquely timeless appeal. In the second half of the 20th century, The Warhol Look reigned supreme. The artist’s influence crossed genres, genders and generations as his work grew more expansive and popular. It was controversial. It was iconic, yet contemporary. And it constantly changed to reflect the times...just as Warhol had hoped. His diversity of styles (those he created through his art as well as embodied in appearance and demeanor) still offer limitless inspiration for today’s artisans. Pop Art has been “embraced and disseminated by the fashion industry,” says art historian Marco Livingstone. Warhol’s bold color palette,

the

strongly influenced by his vast Fiestaware collection, is considered at the same time nostalgic and nouveau. And his glamorous subjects—Marilyn Monroe, Elizabeth Taylor and Edie Sedgwick to name but a few—still

fascinate and inspire designs on and off the runway. According to Alice Mackrell’s book Art and Fashion, designer Yves Saint Laurent considered his great friend Warhol to be “inspiring in everything he did.” For

Warhol Self Portrait, nine canvases 1966

other top photographers and the woman who introduced Warhol to Mick Jagger), leggy Donyale Luna (the first African-American supermodel), icy Nico (a former model turned musician with ties to Bob Dylan, Brian Jones, and ultimately, The Velvet Underground), and Ivy Nicholson (a top cover girl of the early 1960s).

Betsey Johnson and other accomplished designers, the Warhol Look was manifested in dresses made from paper, plastic and metal. Other prominent examples include Jean-Charles de Castelbajac’s vibrant dresses printed with Warhol motifs, Gianni Versace’s “Marilyn Monroe” dress and Philip Treacy’s limited edition collection of hats and bags featuring iconic Warhol images. And at spring 2011 New York Fashion Week, Diane von Furstenberg channeled her very own Andy Warhol portrait through blaring pink lips on the otherwise fresh faces of her runway models. “At some point in the creative process we pulled the picture,” noted von Furstenberg on stylelist.com. “I was young in the ’70s and all these clothes remind me of my youth.” Warhol’s influence reached further than fashion, to commercial and fine art, filmmaking, and publishing. In fact, his Interview magazine is considered by many to be the pinnacle of the artist’s obsession with style. “Interview was the first pop culture magazine,” says Paige Powell, its former associate publisher. “It set trends rather than followed them. It was in the moment, not dated.” Not surprisingly, Warhol’s passion for celebrity led to his creation of Interview. “He wanted to be part of the city in a bigger way…and felt if he had a film magazine, they would let him into the premieres. And they did!” Moreover, The Warhol Look (the catalog supporting the 1997 to 1999 exhibition of the same name) also established that “today’s merging of art and fashion is in large measure the legacy of Andy

GLAMOUR & FILM In 1965 Warhol made more than 10 films (and numerous public appearances) with Edie Sedgwick, the trendsetting tragic beauty who is still regarded as a fashion icon. The films include Beauty #2, Poor Little Rich Girl, Face, Lupe and Kitchen, among others.

Warhol” and that “fashion is the connective tissue joining what previously appeared as disparate elements” in his work. The Andy Warhol Museum, which organized the exhibition The Warhol Look, is one of the most comprehensive single-artist museums in the world. At the end of their 15th anniversary celebration, the museum’s former director, Tom Sokolowski, and archival staff provided the following examples to give us a deeper appreciation of Warhol’s expansive footprint.

DESIGNERS & TELEVISION After years of socializing with fashion designers such as Halston (whose cocktail dress of light, slinky fabric was printed with Warhol’s bold, bright 1965 Flowers image), in 1979 Warhol produced a multipart television series titled Fashion, which focused on the work of the top designers of the day. In later TV series in the mid1980s, Andy Warhol’s TV and Andy Warhol’s Fifteen Minutes, Warhol continued to present the work of (at the time) current designers such as Stephen Sprouse, who based an entire season’s line on Warhol’s Camouflage paintings. To learn more, visit The Warhol in downtown Pittsburgh, or go to www.warhol.org.

TODAY’S MERGING OF ART AND FASHION IS IN LARGE MEASURE THE LEGACY OF ANDY WARHOL.

MODELS & MUSIC In the mid-1960s, Warhol featured many fashion models in his films. This was especially evident in his series of Screen Test portrait films that included blonde “Baby Jane” Holzer (a sought-after fashion model among David Bailey and

The Souper Dress, paper 1966-67

On Her: Moncler Jacket $750. AG Adriano Goldschmied Jean $188. On Him: Moncler Jacket $695. AG Adriano Goldschmied Jean $225.

On Her: Brunello Cucinelli Jacket $2100, Scarf $1040, Top $1065, Belt $480, Pant $2490, Shoe $710 and Handbag $1415. On Him: Brunello Cucinelli Sportcoat $1475, Shirt $495, Trouser $495, Belt $495 and Shoe $795.

Peter Cohen Top $425. Paige Premium Denim $189.

Dean Harris Ebony / 18K Gold Earring $750, Ebony / 18K Gold Earring $700, Ebony / Carnelian / 18K Gold Necklace $1150 and Ebony / Citrine Necklace / 18K Gold Necklace $1500.

Diesel Jacket $800, T-Shirt $180 and Jean $280.

On Him: Paul Smith Jacket $695, Shirt $275 and Bracelet $95. Agave Jean $235. On Her: L’Agence Jacket $575, Top $178 and Short $246. K.Jaques Shoe $238.

18 Irene Neuwirth 18k Gold / Carnelian Earring $2700, 18k Gold / Pink Opal Earring $2700 and 18k Gold / Rose of France Earring $3810.

30 Diesel Black Gold Jacket $800, Top $180 and Pant $350. K.Jacques Shoe $295.

Narciso Rodriguez Dress $2775.

20 On Her: Boss Orange Dress $325. On Him: Boss Orange Cardigan $225, Shirt $115 and Jean $165.

21 On Her: Lanvin Dress $1610, Handbag $2250 and Shoe $795. On Him: Lanvin Cardigan $995, Shirt $425, Bow Tie $300, Trouser $495 and Shoe $475.

31 Alberto Fermani Shoe $345.

23 On Her: Hudson Collection Jacket $590, Hoodie $128 and Jean $325. On Him: Stone Island Jacket $495 and Shirt $195. Hudson Jean $264.

24 On Her: Etro Dress $2378. Lanvin Shoe $795. On Him: Etro Suit $1795 and Shirt $255.

25 Ralph Lauren Black Label Suit $1595, Shirt $295 and Tie $135.

26 Steven Alan Shirt $225. Edwin Jean $280.

37 Mulholland Bag $325. Walkover Shoe $225. AG Adriano Goldschmied Jean $225. Hudson Jean $165.

32 B.May Handbag $425. Clare Tough Cardigan $998 and Cami $675. Twenty Top $145. Alberto Fermani Shoe $345.

Casadei Shoe $720. Moncler Jacket $950. Clare Tough Cardigan $1078 and Cami $578. Casadei Shoe $750.

22 Isaia Suit $2995, Shirt $395 and Tie $195.

FASHION

INDEX

On Him: Vince Cardigan $335, Sweater $225, T-Shirt $110 and Trouser $198. On Her: Vince Jacket $895, T-Shirt $48 and Pant $210. K.Jacques Shoe $255.

34 On Him: Edun Sportcoat $398, T-Shirt $60 and Jean $238. On Her: Edun Dress $258 and Wrap Top $348. K.Jacques Shoe $295.

35 AG Adriano Goldschmied Jean $188. 7 for all Mankind Jean $189. Hudson Jean $198.

The Row Top $990 and Pant $375. K.Jacques Shoe $270.

Boss Black Sportcoat $445, Shirt $145 and Trouser $145.

40 Jason Wu Dress $1645.

41 Hugo Boss Suit $895, Shirt $165 and Tie $95.

42 Jil Sander Dress $1645.

43 Ermenegildo Zegna Suit $2395, Shirt $335 and Tie $195.

36 Will Leather Goods Belts $145. Boss Black Shirt $175. John Varvatos Shoe $175. Mason’s Short $150 and Short $165. Lacoste Vintage Shirt $85.

For more information, please call: Downtown Portland 503.227.3477 Downtown Seattle 206.223.1461 Mario’s 3.10 at Bridgeport Village 503.601.7310

designer profile

NO ORDINARY MIDDLE MAN ISAIA TOES THE LINE BETWEEN CLASSIC AND CONTEMPORARY. BY WILLIAM KISSEL

Ask Gianluca Isaia to describe his eponymous collection of men’s suits and sportswear and he’ll tell you that it fits comfortably in the middle between classic and contemporary. “We offer the quality of more traditional luxury brands but with the styling of high fashion labels,” says Isaia (above), an anomaly among Italian menswear makers who is known for wearing inexpensive leather fisherman sandals with his impeccably tailored cashmere suits. The offbeat combination is the boyish designer’s way of illustrating the incredible versatility of his clothing. Men today want the freedom to mix denim with their pinstripe suit jackets, says Isaia, whose colorful clothing is made in Naples. Such idiosyncratic dressing, he insists, is not a sign of “a guy who doesn’t know how to decide” but rather that of a man “who is comfortable [enough] in his own skin to create a style that is uniquely his own.”

The line includes jackets cut with the same slightly pinched shoulder and high armhole found on most handmade Neapolitan garments. Yet there are significant differences, including a relaxed but shapely waist and the company’s

own pignattiello pocket, shaped like an Italian pot of the same name typically used to cook beans. Isaia’s trousers are athletic and lean, but not uncomfortably snug, and they are rarely pleated. The style is Neapolitan, with an edge. Since Isaia likes the look, but not the weight, of vintage textiles, he dilligently searches through the 54-year-old company’s treasure trove of archival fabrics to find bold stripes and checks he can reproduce in modern color combinations. He’s also been known to invent his own textiles: After spilling red wine on his pants, Isaia had the idea to develop AquaSpider, the first all-natural wool fabric in which the yarns are chemically treated to resist water and stains while retaining softness. Subsequent experiments resulted in an entire range of Aqua fabrics, including AquaCashmere, AquaChino (cotton) and, most recently, AquaLight, only half the weight of conventional wool. Such fabrics give an incredible lightness of being to many of Isaia’s pieces. By mixing them with old world hand tailoring and modern styling, Isaia has found a way to, as he says, “offer a whole new definition of Neapolitan style to the American man.”

www.canali.it

MARIO’S FORUM SPRING 2011