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A Bustle & Sew Publication Copyright Š Bustle & Sew Limited 2019 The right of Helen Challenor to be identified as the author of this work has been asserted in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form, or by any means, without the prior written permission of the author, nor be otherwise circulated in any form of binding or cover other than that in which it is published and without a similar condition being imposed on the subsequent purchaser. Every effort has been made to ensure that all the information in this book is accurate. However, due to differing conditions, tools and individual skills, the publisher cannot be responsible for any injuries, losses and other damages that may result from the use of the information in this book.
First published 2019 by: Bustle & Sew The Cottage Oakhill Radstock BA3 5HT UK www.bustleandsew.com
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Welcome to the September Magazine Hello everyone! And welcome to the first issue of autumn. I love this time of year, the crisp early mornings, still warm and sunny days and the first glowing colours of fall beginning to appear in the woodlands and hedgerows around me. There are blackberries to pick, apples to harvest and - dare I whisper it - Christmas to look forward to. But before Christmas of course, there is a whole season of festivities to enjoy, beginning with the village harvest festival in a few weeks time. We have extra reason to celebrate here at Bustle & Sew HQ of course - if you haven’t heard the news already - we welcomed Rufus, our new little team member, and simply the most adorable labrador puppy ever (in my opinion that is!), And also the Engineer and I will be getting married next year - he proposed in true romantic fashion on one knee in front of the beautiful facade of Wells Cathedral. But back to this month’s magazine - it has a truly autumn feel, as well as a hint of Christmas - I wanted to continue our 100th issue celebrations just a little while longer, so this month and for the following two, I am including one of our Christmas Collections in place of a sixth pattern. I do hope you’ll enjoy them, and also that you’re a bit better organised than me - I have so many projects in mind, and not nearly enough time to make them all! And finally, as always, I do hope you’ll enjoy this issue, and if you’re a subscriber then please look out for the October Magazine arriving in your inbox on Thursday 26 September.
Helen xx
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Tips for Stitchers To stitch successfully you need good lighting - so as the evenings begin to draw in and you find yourself stitching more by artificial light, it’s worth investing in a good work lamp with a daylight bulb. Experiment before you purchase - work lamps come in all shapes and sizes, from floor based lamps to those that clip onto a table or other flat surface. Be sure that the light shines on your work as you’re sitting comfortably, you shouldn’t have to crane or stretch to see your stitches properly. How stitchers in the past managed to produce such fine work by candlelight is beyond me - but then publications of the time do refer to “ruining one’s eyesight” with fancy work.
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Between this month’s covers … Tips for Stitchers
Page 4
Country Diary
Page 43
September Almanac
Page 6
A Very Little Look at Taffeta
Page 44
Be Happy Hoop
Page 8
Stars of the Season
Page 45
A Very Little Look at Feedsacks
Page 12
Poetry Corner: Digging
Page 46
Meet the Maker: Collette Kinley
Page 14
Party Animal Hoop
Page 47
The Harvest Mouse
Page 16
Meet the Maker: Vera Jonkers
Page 49
Poetry Corner: Ode to Autumn
Page 18
Lovely Idea: Fox Cosy
Page 51
Thoughtful Journal Cover
Page 19
Christmas Creatures
Page 52
Conker Time!
Page 21
Home Comforts
page 53
A Very Little History of Knitting
Page 22
Embroidery Stitch Guide
Page 54
When Day Equals Night
Page 24
In the Kitchen: Conversion Tables
Page 55
Blast from the Past: Appley Dappley
Page 26
Templates
Page 56
By Candlelight
Page 28
Autumn Hoop
Page 29
Lovely Idea: Pumpkin Planter
Page 30
Tastes of the Season: September
Page 34
Night Before Christmas Cushion
Page 41
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September September is a time of change the sun goes into its long decline, the meadows are left bare and the apples are falling from the trees. It’s also a time to finish gathering the harvest for the winter, to ensure your log store is full and to dream of cosy evenings by the fire as the year rushes towards the festive season ahead. In London, the Albert Hall is packed for the last night of the Proms - that stirring blend of nostalgia and patriotism which marks the end of ‘the season.’ As the promenaders leave the hall and mingle with the crowds in Hyde Park, there is a sense of melancholy, of regret for the brevity of our British summer. But take heart - there’s fine weather and enjoyment yet to come. Statistically September is sunnier than August and October can bring with it an ‘Indian Summer’.
Autumn here in the UK can be our finest season. In the ancient Caledonian Forest, in
“Season of mists and mellow fruitfulness, Close bosom-friend of the maturing sun; Conspiring with him how to load and bless With fruit the vines that round the thatch-eves run.”
Scotland, the birches will begin to turn gold towards the end of the month, but further south the spectacle of autumn colours I sometimes not seen until later in
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October. Just as spring unfolded northwards at a walking pace, autumn sweeps down the country in the same way. Squirrels are often seen in early September, scurrying across the woodland floor in search of autumn fruits to eat immediately and nuts to store. Beech and hazel nuts are their favourites and they go to great length to hide them, often forgetting where they are when they go to retrieve them in the winter months. Best known perhaps, of our autumn fruits, is the blackberry. For generations blackberry picking has been a British countryside pursuit in August and September. Delicious in jams and jellies, with apples in pies, or simply fresh picked from the hedgerows, they are one of the enduring symbols of country life. The flowers at the tips of the mature thorny stems are the first to set and usually produce the
sweetest fruits (which then of course are always just out of reach!) As the berries ripen they turn from green through red to a deep glossy black, as the transformation works its way back up the bramble. But pick while you can - it’s considered extremely bad luck to pick blackberries late in the season - the final date for picking is given in some areas as Michaelmas because by this time the Devil will have put his mark on them. Farmers and apple growers hope that the weather will be kind in September so that their crops will not be damaged before they are gathered in. The three days preceding the autumnal equinox (23 September) are supposed to determine the weather for the following three months, though this is not guaranteed! In Kent and other hop-growing counties, September was the month when casual workers from London and elsewhere would arrive for the hop-picking season. On 16 September 1620, the Mayflower set sail from Plymouth bound for north America carrying 102 passengers, later known as the Pilgrim Fathers, a group of Puritans who had broken away from the Church of England and
“The leaves of brown came tumbling down Remember in September in the rain The Sun went out just like a dying amber That September in the rain To every word of love I heard you whisper The raindrops seemed to play our sweet refrain Though spring is here to me it's still September That September in the rain”
had suffered persecution under King James I. After a nine week voyage the ship arrived at Cape Cod with an extra passenger on board - one of the women had given birth at sea, to a son she named Oceanus. The pilgrims finally lnaded at Plymouth, Massachusetts, in December 1620 where they established the first settlement in what was to become known as New England.
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September brings the autumn equinox, this year falling on the twenty-third. There are now as many hours of daylight as in early April and some wildlife responds as if it were indeed spring once again. The dawn chorus is revived and in hedgerows and in woodland glades some flowers will bloom again. But still, it is autumn, not spring and swallows and house martins, having raised their broods, gather on telegraph wires, waiting for the collective signal to leave. A burst of late September sunshine will bring out swarms of gnats and other insects that provide these birds with a last minute opportunity to fuel up for the long journey ahead. Michaelmas, the feast day of St Michael and All Angels in the Anglican Church, and Michael, Gabriel and Raphael in the Roman Catholic Church, falls on September 29. This Is one of the four days on which quarterly rents are paid. The tradition of serving goose for dinner on this day may stem from the practice of giving your landlord such a bird as a gift. It was also thought that eating goose on Michaelmas Day would bring financial prosperity in the year to come. The geese were fattened for the table by allowing them to glean fallen grain on the stubble fields after the harvest.
Be Happy Hoop Sunflowers epitomise late summer and I’ve always loved their cheerful golden faces that turn to follow the sun throughout the day. Sunflowers and happiness seem to go together somehow, and I hope you’ll approve of this floral embroidery stitched on a sandy brown linen background that to me says “farewell” to the old season and welcomes in the autumn months. Shown mounted in 7” hoop
Materials
Method
● 11” square sandy brown linen, cotton or linen blend fabric suitable for embroidery. I used Robert Kaufman Essex linen
● Iron your background fabric well before beginning.
● DMC stranded cotton floss in shades 310, 470, 743, 779, 783, 792, 799, 904, 3829, 4190
● Stitch design in accordance with guide on following pages.
● 7” embroidery hoop
● When finished press lightly on the reverse and mount in hoop for display.
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A (very) Little Look at Feedsacks In the USA, from about the late 19th century, stable goods began to be transported and distributed in fabric bags - a much easier and more economical means of packaging than the previously used wood and metal storage containers. These had not been an ideal method of storage as tin would rust and the handmade boxes and barrels leaked and were damaged easily. They were bulky, heavy and difficult to transport. Manufacturers were anxious to find another method, but didn't consider the cloth bags of homespun linen used by farmers to store goods for use at home because the hand sewn seams wouldn't be strong enough for heavy use.
All of this changed in 1846 with the invention of the stitching machine, which made it possible to sew double locking seams strong enough to hold the contents of a bag. These bags were often re-used many times, although later they were specially woven from white cotton and often bore the logo of the mill where they had been made. Feedsacks were initially made from heavy canvas, and were used to transport flour, sugar, meal, grain, salt and feed from the mills. They were reusable, and the farmer would return his empty sack stamped with his mark to the mill to be filled. This changed when weaving
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inexpensive cotton fabric became possible in the late 1800's. Feed sacks, or feedbags as they were known then, were initially printed on plain white cloth and in sizes that corresponded to barrel sizes. For example, a one barrel bag held 196 pounds of flour, whilst a 1/8 barrel bag only held 24 pounds. The brand name of the flour was simply printed on the side of the bag. The dress-print feed sacks that are so pretty, and so lovely to use in all kinds of sewing, from patchwork to applique - and even for softiemaking, had a relatively short lifespan. Most of us will associate these printed sacks with the Depression period of the 1930s. As the economy was plunged into recession, and people had to economise and utilise whatever came to hand, fabric and grain companies began to realise that thrifty housewives were using these feed sacks to make clothing and household textiles, and so they began to print them in beautiful patterns to attract such customers. It was not unknown for wives to send their husbands to the store to purchase their feed in bags printed with a specific design so they could complete their project as it would take, for example, three identical sacks to make a dress. Magazines and pattern companies began to take notice of feedsack popularity and published patterns to take advantage of the feedsack prints. Matching fabric and even matching wrapping paper was available, too. Directions were given for using the strings from feedsacks in knitting and crocheting. A 1942 estimate showed that three million women and children of all income levels were wearing print feedbag garments. An amazingly wide variety of prints were produced - as well as the small floral designs
that we all associate with feedsacks, you can find larger florals, polka dots, stripes and plaids as well as many novelty designs for special occasions or events. In the same way that fabric companies do today, feed sack fabric designs were printed in several colourways to attract a wider audience. Manufacturers also realised that women loved to stitch for their children, so they made prints with images that would appeal to mothers making clothes for their children, as well as feedsacks printed with dolls and toys that could be cut out and stitched together. Many sacks had themes. Some of the more collectible sacks now are those with Walt Disney themes such as Davy Crockett, Cinderella and Alice in Wonderland; movie themes such as Gone With the Wind; comic book themes such as Buck Rogers; and nursery rhyme themes such as Little BoPeep and Humpty Dumpty. After the second world war, technological developments meant that more hygenic and effective packaging could be made from heavy paper and plastic containers. These new containers were cheaper to manufacture too. A cotton bag cost 32 cents to make, as opposed to 10 cents for the paper bag, and so the use of fabric feedsacks began to decline. The start of the 1960's saw sack manufacturers trying to tempt customers back with cartoon-printed fabrics, from Buck Rogers to Cinderella. There was even a television advertising campaign, but it failed to generate a significant upsurge in sales. It's still relatively easy to acquire these lovely old fabrics - especially if you're in the US - as they can often be found on eBay at reasonable prices. They can easily be mixed and matched with modern designs and it's fun to incorporate some into your projects - ensuring that your work will never be duplicated by anyone else!
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“As an artist I just want my art work and sewing skills to evolve� talks to us about her design process, her proudest moment and how she started her business, Collette Kinley is a self-taught textile artist, working from her studio in Cambridgeshire. Collette’s work is influenced by her childhood growing up in Norfolk and her keen interest in natural history
I started my sewing journey when I made dresses for my daughter Ruby. I really enjoyed making them, choosing the fabrics and seeing her wearing them. But I also really enjoyed the technical aspects of learning new types of stitches and techniques. This got me hooked. Friends quickly started to order dresses for their children and before I knew it Sewn by Collette had emerged. It wasn't long though before the creative side of me felt too restricted making just children's clothes. I'd always loved drawing so when I discovered free motion embroidery I knew I had found my passion.
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Most of my inspiration comes from nature. I know that's a bit of a cliche but the natural world is such an important part of my family life. There is so much raw beauty all around us and sometimes we just need to stop and look. It's the form and structure of things that I find fascinating and it really is just what catches my eye - it could be a bird, or a beetle, or a pineapple. It is just something that happens without me thinking about it. Social media platforms are an excellent source of inspiration and help to keep me up to date with the latest trends.
I do quite a few drawings of the subject matter to get a feel for the design. I then paint on my fabric before I start stitching layers and layers of thread. My design process, for thread drawings which I create on my
sewing machine, are strong in form and detail.
I wish I had been better at IT and understood what help was available. I eventually found some networks of people who had been through the start-up process already and knew what some of the pitfalls were. Finding these and getting their advice was invaluable. I still wish that I had better I.T skills, especially when it comes to editing photos of my work.
My three mackerels is the thing I've made that I'm most proud of, though I do love my whimsical terrariums too.
I think it was recently when I was accepted into S.E.W (The Society for Embroidered Work). There aren't lots of members, and, of those that are, some are artists I've
looked up to and respected for a long while.
My biggest challenge is that there are not enough hours in the day for all the projects and ideas that I have.
For me having my own business doing what I absolutely love is a privilege and being my own boss is liberating. Time management and organisation are key to running any business even for an artist. It's taken me years to get my work life balance just right. There has been a lot of trial and error on the way. My typical day is doing the school run then coming back home to do admin, emails and social media. Then I spend my time sewing, as the sun comes round to provide the best light in my work room. Afternoons are usually for photography as that is when I get the best light. Then it's school run again. I work in the evening too but really recommend getting the best daylight lamp you can afford. That's the benefit of running
your own business I have the best of both worlds, family and work.
Find a group or support network - other people who have been through this before so you don't have to work it all out for yourself. There are some really helpful and supportive people in this world, willing to give up their time to provide guidance and direction as we start our artistic journeys. Social media is a fantastic platform too, I have found my Instagram family to be invaluable too; we all understand what it's like.
I would like to do a solo exhibition of my work. I have done one collaborative exhibition with a fellow artist and it was an amazing experience. As an artist I just want my art work and sewing skills to evolve. Do be sure to pop over to Collette’s shop to see all of her gorgeous creations. You can also find her on Instagram too!
Dressed in Autumn Hues, the Harvest Mouse lives a solitary life in our fields and hedgerows 16
If you are out about in the countryside on a warm late summer’s evening, and if you tread very carefully and quietly, you may be lucky enough to spot a tiny harvest mouse searching for food among the tangles of fruiting brambles that provide them with such a good source of nourishment at this time of year. These tiny agile creatures are just 2 - 3 inches long and are our smallest mammal, as well as the only one with a prehensile tail that allows them to move so easily in even the densest vegetation. Indeed, the harvest mouse will spend much of its short life clambering from stalk to stalk and leaf to leaf in its constant search for food. The harvest mouse is, of course, associated with cereal fields, but can be found wherever there is tall grass, reeds or other such species the whole year round. This is important since, although they are less active, they do not hibernate in winter and must feed the whole year through. They have a high surface to body mass ratio meaning they will lose heat from their bodies very quickly in cold snaps, so they do have high energy requirements. They are omnivores who feed on grain, seeds,
berries, mushrooms and toadstools and sometimes even moss, as well as any small insects and caterpillars they are able to catch and at this time of year they’re particularly busy building up their store of food to help see them through the leaner months of winter. Mainly active at night in the summer and early and late in the day during the winter when the nights are colder, you don’t often see them though it’s been estimated that there are around 1.4 million living in the UK although they aren’t found in any great numbers much further north than Yorkshire. Autumn brings the end of their breeding season, though they do end on a high note as threequarters of their young arrive in late August and September. This may be a survival mechanism to help the species survive the winter months their natural life span is around 18 months but few will survive the winter as a combination of cold weather and lack of food takes its toll. Many will live for only six months. But those that do survive will be ready to breed when the spring finally arrives as their life cycle begins again.
A harvest mouse pregnancy lasts between 17 - 19 days during which time the female mouse will double her body weight.
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Ode to Autumn Season of mists and mellow fruitfulness, Close bosom-friend of the maturing sun; Conspiring with him how to load and bless With fruit the vines that round the thatch-eves run; To bend with apples the mossed cottage-trees, And fill all fruit with ripeness to the core; To swell the gourd, and plump the hazel shells With a sweet kernel; to set budding more, And still more, later flowers for the bees, Until they think warm days will never cease, For summer has o’er-brimmed their clammy cell. John Keats
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Tastes of the Season: September 34
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